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CdT_265_COVER_INGLESE_Acca 07/11/14 20:00 Pagina 1 4 1 0 2 R E B M E V O CIVI LT ÀDELL ATAVOLA N G 5 ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA 6 2 . IN N T ER N ED A I T T IO IO N N A L A L O V 4 1 A 0 T 2 ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA R A E L A CULTURAL INSTITUTION OF THE REPUBLIC OF ITALY B L FOUNDED IN 1953 BY ORIO VERGANI M E E D V O À N T www.accademia1953.it , L 5 I 6 V 2 I . C N STOABMLME AORFI O CONTENTS LIANA TA D I E L A L I A M C E U D C A I C N C A A L’ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA FOUNDED IN 1953 BY ORIO VERGANI AND LUIGI BERTETT , DINO BUZZATI TRAVERSO , CESARE CHIODI , GIANNINO CITTERIO , ERNESTO DONÀ DALLE ROSE , MICHELE GUIDO FRANCI , GIANNI MAZZOCCHI BASTONI , ARNOLDO MONDADORI , ATTILIO NAVA , ARTURO ORVIETO , SEVERINO PAGANI , ALDO PASSANTE , GIANLUIGI PONTI , GIÒ PONTI , DINO VILLANI , EDOARDO VISCONTI DI MODRONE , WHIT MASSIMO ALBERINI AND VINCENZO BUONASSISI . DEAR ACADEMICIANS... CULTURE AND RESEARCH CIVI LT ÀDELL ATAVOLA 2 Building an Academy 7 The food of the dead ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA for the Future (Gianni Di Giacomo) INTERNATIONAL EDITION (Giovanni Ballarini) NOVEMBER 2014 / N. 265 9 The precious perfume from the woods FOCUS (Nicola Barbera) EDITOR IN CHIEF GIOVANNI BALLARINI 4 Transparency is optional 11 Neapolitan pasta COPY EDITOR in restaurant menus with potatoes SILVIA DE LORENZO (Paolo Petroni) (Claudio Novelli) LAYOUT SIMONA MONGIU 13 Music and cuisine TRASLATOR ACADEMY COUNCIL (Savino Sardella) NICOLA LEA FURLAN 5 The Academic Council’s THIS ISSUE INCLUDES ARTICLES BY meeting in Naples Giovanni Ballarini, Nicola Barbera, (Silvia De Lorenzo) Silvia De Lorenzo, Gianni Di Giacomo, Claudio Novelli, Paolo Petroni, Savino Sardella. OOO PUBLISHER ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA VIA NAPO TORRIANI 31 - 20124 M ILANO TEL . 02 66987018 - F AX 02 66987008 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.accademia1953.it OOO MONTHLY MAGAZINE REG . N. 4049 - 29-5-1956 TRIBUNALE DI MILANO On the cover: Graphic reproduction of a detail from Still Life with Giant Pumpkin and Fruit (1902-1903) by Nicolas Tarkhoff. On exhibit at the Petit Palais Museum in Geneva. Rivista associata all’Unione Stampa Periodica Italiana PAGINA 1 CDAERARI AACCCAADDEEMMICICIAI.N.. S… Building an Academy for the Future Elite groups by nature, academies must contribute to the construction of a future identity. BY GIOVANNI BALLARINI President of the Academy tronomy. This is demonstrated by the ibility on the part of the Academy. fact that foods have been successful At its inception, the elite founders of over time only because they have our Academy belonged to a society in evolved. The example of many Italian which social distances and separations regions is illustrative: they have were not as marked as they are today. achieved and maintained their unpar - One needs only consider the restaurant alleled success through constant inno - world. There were many good quality vations in production that enhance trattorias that specialized in local cui - their uniqueness and quality. Most of sine. At the same time, the difference these innovations were not nearly so in cost of a meal at a decent trattoria evident a few decades or even cen - and a renown restaurant was nowhere turies ago. near as great as that of a modern fast Tackling the problems of today and food establishment (10 euros) and a building a future with new ideas and high quality restaurant (150 euros). methods is a task for an elite group, Not to mention the dwindling number but they can meet with success if they of intermediately priced restaurants are not in close contact and harmony that have a good cost-quality ratio. with the society of which they are a Today there is a growing divide be - ear Academicians, trying to part. Once again turning to the war tween elite and popular restaurants solve modern problems with metaphor, a victorious general must that is associated with social diversity Dthe solutions of the past in - not only be brilliant, but he must be that is almost tragically accentuated evitably leads to failure. It is an his - at the front lines of his army. He can - by an increasing division between old torical fact that conflicts led by gen - not simply sit in the background and and young. We now have a different erals using methods, and especially consult maps of the battlefield. way of interpreting the tradition of ideas, that were successful in preced - These are the thoughts that have come senex and puer as interpreted by ing wars will always be lost, while to me after visiting the many Delega - James Hillman. commanders using innovative tactics tions that have recently celebrated At this point one must ask the practical and above all military strategies usu - forty, fifty, and even sixty years of ex - as well as rhetorical question of what ally emerge victorious. In spite of the istence, often celebrating the anniver - is the role of the elites, and hence what fact that history is life’s best teacher, sary in the very restaurant where they is, or what should be, that of our Acad - the danger of falling into the trap of held their first convivial meetings. emy - or any academy worthy of the tackling the problems of the present But in many instances that restaurant name. In the opinion of this writer, it and planning for the future using only no longer exists, or if it does there is is herein that we will find the answer past experience is especially grave dur - an abyss between what it once was to the question of a greater “visibility” ing times of social upheaval and espe - and what it is today, just as the rela - for our Academy which, without being cially of rapid change such as we are tionship between the elite founders overly pessimistic, seems to be eliciting currently experiencing. and the current patrons has also less interest in a fragmented society As is true in any attempt at restoration, changed radically. This revealing from which the elites have all but dis - hoping to revive an irremediably lost change in all its complexity merits a appeared, if not retired, to be replaced past is absolutely unrealistic even in mention in this brief essay as it also by extremely invasive and fast moving the areas of nutrition, cuisine and gas - regards the demand for a greater vis - techno-industrial systems. This is a PAGINA 2 DEAR ACADEMICIANS… question that cannot be exhaustively ical set of principles that we continue like that”, much less “my mother did answered here, but it is a subject to be to represent. As an elite group today it this way”) plays a fundamental and examined and pondered in a society we have the duty to contribute to the essential role in providing results that such as ours that decreasingly reads gastronomic creations of tomorrow. intrinsically provide some much or develops original ideas and instead We must maintain a set of principles touted “visibility”. supinely accepts pre-packaged slo - for Italian cuisine that goes beyond In a society such as our current one, gans. merely collecting recipes to include in - what sort of visibility can be achieved Although it is a difficult task, to in - terpreting the modern day traditions by announcing that a group of persons crease visibility it is necessary to have of Italian cuisine. Is our Academy - or has given an award to a certain restau - appropriate ideas for interpreting better still, are our Academicians, an rant that, owing to its price or capacity modern day nutrition, and to con - elite group capable of building a fu - is frequented by relatively few people, tribute to the construction of a nutri - ture, beginning with a more serious or that a centuries-old culinary note - tional, and above all gastronomic, cul - and deeper discussion of the “Italian book has been discovered in some re - ture within the scope of Italian Nutritional Question” in all its as - mote monastery? Old systems and traditions, especially those set forth pects? strategies will only lose in the modern by the famous traditional cuisine of Such a discussion must start with the war that involves us in the “Italian the bourgeoisie. This is the cuisine still insufficiently studied and evalu - Gastronomic Question” where forma - that our Academy has represented and ated “Italian Gastronomic Question” tion, rather than information, is the that, starting with Pellegrino Artusi in in which gastronomic criticism (which only path toward new ideas. the last century, has established a crit - does not mean “I like this” or “I don’t GIOVANNI BALLARINI GUIDELINES FOR CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE MAGAZINE Contributions to the magazine by Academicians are not G Convivial Dinner forms: it is equally important only welcome, they are indispensible. However that the “notes and comments” section of the rating Academicians need to keep in mind some essential sheets respect the 800 character limit (Maximum guidelines, so that their effort and passion are rewarded 1,000 characters) include spaces, in order to avoid cuts by rapid and thorough publication. and errors. Rating sheets that arrive at Headquarters more than 30 days after the event will be discarded. G Articles: It is essential that articles be sent G Please do not send reports on convivial dinners electronically , in Word format (not pdf) to the following held outside the territory of your Delegation , or on email address: [email protected] those held in the homes of Academicians or places other than restaurants and public settings, as they will G Article Length: To avoid cuts that are irritating for not be published.