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Contents

List of Maps vii

What’s New in Thailand 1

1 The Best of Thailand 7 1 The Best Cultural Experiences ...... 7 10 The Best of Natural Thailand ...... 15 2 The Best Super-Luxe Resorts & Spas . . .9 11 The Best Offbeat Vacation 3 The Best Mid- & High-end Resorts . . .10 Activities ...... 15 4 The Best Luxury Hotels ...... 11 12 The Best Shopping ...... 16 5 The Best Hotels with Character . . . . .11 13 The Most Intriguing Archaeological Sights ...... 17 6 The Best Fine Dining ...... 12 14 The Best Museums ...... 17 7 The Best Small Restaurants ...... 13 15 The Best Small Towns ...... 17 8 The Best Party Beaches ...... 14 16 The Most Fascinating Temples ...... 18 9 The Best Outdoor Adventures ...... 14

2 Planning Your Trip to Thailand 19 1 The Regions in Brief ...... 19 Frommers.com: The Complete 2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . .20 Travel Resource ...... 44 3 Money ...... 25 9 The 21st-Century Traveler ...... 45 What Things Cost in . . . . .26 Online Traveler’s Toolbox ...... 46 The Baht, the U.S. Dollar, the Euro, 10 Getting There ...... 48 the Australian Dollar & the British 11 Packages for the Independent Pound ...... 27 Traveler ...... 52 4 When to Go ...... 28 12 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . . .53 Thailand Calendar of Events ...... 30 13 Outdoor Adventures ...... 55 5 Travel Insurance ...... 30 14 Getting Around Thailand ...... 56 6 Health & Safety ...... 32 15 Tips on Accommodations ...... 58 COPYRIGHTEDSex for Sale ...... 36 16 MATERIALTips on Dining ...... 60 7 Specialized Travel Resources ...... 37 17 Recommended Books, Films 8 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 42 & Music ...... 61 Fast Facts: Thailand ...... 62 02_784702 ftoc.qxd 3/17/06 9:05 PM Page iv

iv CONTENTS

3 Suggested Itineraries in Thailand 70 1 Begin (or End) in Bangkok: 3 Island Hopping & Adventure in the 2 or 3 Days ...... 71 Malay Peninsula: From 12 Days 2 Ancient Capitals Tour: 6 Days ...... 74 to Eternity (Your Choice) ...... 75 4 “Adventure First, Beach Second” Tour: 10 Days ...... 77

4 Introducing Bangkok 79 1 Orientation ...... 80 2 Getting Around ...... 88 Neighborhoods in Brief ...... 87 Fast Facts: Bangkok ...... 92

5 Where to Stay & Dine in Bangkok 97 1 Accommodations ...... 97 Tips on Dining: Bangkok 2 Dining ...... 116 Street Eats ...... 120

6 What to See & Do in Bangkok 129 1 Bangkok’s Waterways ...... 129 5 Staying Active ...... 145 2 Bangkok’s Historical Treasures . . . .132 6 Shopping ...... 146 3 The Wats ...... 138 7 Bangkok After Dark ...... 151 4 Cultural Pursuits ...... 142 8 Side Trips from Bangkok ...... 156

7 The Eastern Seaboard 160 1 ...... 160 3 Province ...... 173 2 Ban Phe & Ko Samet ...... 170 4 & Ko Chang ...... 174

8 Southern Peninsula: The East Coast & Islands 179 1 Hua Hin/Cha-Am ...... 179 5 Ko Pha Ngan ...... 220 2 Chumphon ...... 190 6 Ko Tao ...... 224 3 Surat Thani ...... 192 7 The Far South & on to Malaysia . . .227 4 Koh Samui ...... 197

9 Southern Peninsula: The West Coast & Islands 228 1 Phuket ...... 230 4 Exploring Phuket ...... 255 Fast Facts: Phuket ...... 235 5 Side Trips from Phuket ...... 261 2 Where to Stay ...... 237 6 Krabi (Ao Nang, Raillay & 3 Where to Dine ...... 251 Khlong Muang Beaches) ...... 262 02_784702 ftoc.qxd 3/17/06 9:05 PM Page v

CONTENTS v 7 Koh Phi Phi ...... 268 9 Trang ...... 272 8 Koh Lanta ...... 270

10 274 1 Ayuthaya ...... 274 4 Sukhothai & Si Satchanalai 2 Lop Buri ...... 281 Historical Parks ...... 288 3 Phitsanulok ...... 282 5 : Mae Sot & the Myanmar (Burma) Border ...... 293

11 Exploring 298

1 The Land & Its People ...... 298 3 Getting There & Getting Around . . .304 2 When to Go ...... 302 4 Tours & Trekking in the Far North . . .305 Northern Thailand Calendar Tips on Jungle Trekking ...... 306 of Events ...... 302

12 Chiang Mai 308 1 Orientation ...... 308 5 Chiang Mai Activities ...... 331 Fast Facts: Chiang Mai ...... 311 6 Shopping ...... 334 2 Accommodations ...... 312 7 Chiang Mai After Dark ...... 337 3 Dining ...... 321 8 Side Trips from Chiang Mai ...... 338 4 Exploring Cultural Chiang Mai . . . .326

13 Touring the Northern Hills 343 1 The Mae Hong Son Loop ...... 343 5 Chiang Rai ...... 354 2 Pai ...... 344 6 Chiang Saen & the Golden 3 Mae Hong Son ...... 349 Triangle ...... 360 4 Mae Sariang: Completing Onward to Laos ...... 364 the Mae Hong Son Loop ...... 353

14 Exploring : Thailand’s Frontier 365 1 Information & Tours ...... 365 7 Along the Mekong from Loei 2 Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) . . . . .366 to Nong Khai ...... 369 3 Khon Kaen ...... 366 8 Nong Khai ...... 370 4 Udon Thani & Ban Chiang ...... 368 The Dragon of the Mekong ...... 370 5 The Mekong Valley Loop ...... 368 9 Nakhon Phanom ...... 371 6 Loei ...... 369 10 Southeast Isan ...... 372 11 Surin ...... 372 02_784702 ftoc.qxd 3/17/06 9:05 PM Page vi

vi CONTENTS Appendix A: Thailand in Depth 373 1 The Thai People ...... 373 5 Thai Architecture 101 ...... 385 2 A Look at the Past ...... 375 6 Thailand’s Exotic Bill of Fare: 3 The Buddha in Thailand ...... 382 From Tiger Prawns to Pad Thai . . . .387 4 The Language ...... 384 7 Drinks ...... 388

Appendix B: A Little Bit of Thai to Help You Get By 390 1 Basic Phrases & Vocabulary ...... 390 4 Shopping ...... 391 2 Getting Around ...... 390 5 Numbers ...... 392 3 In a Restaurant ...... 391

Index 393 02_784702 ftoc.qxd 3/17/06 9:05 PM Page vii

List of Maps

Thailand 21 Surat Thani 193 Bangkok Itinerary 73 Koh Samui 199 Bangkok at a Glance 82 The Southern Peninsula: Bangkok Metro Lines 89 West Coast 229 Where to Stay in Bangkok 98 Phuket & Koh Phi Phi 231 107 Ayuthaya 275 Where to Dine in Bangkok 118 The Central Plains 283 Bangkok Attractions 130 Northern Thailand 299 The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Where to Stay in Chiang Mai 313 Kaeo 133 Where to Dine in Chiang Mai 323 The Eastern Seaboard 161 Chiang Mai Attractions 327 Pattaya 163 Touring the Northern Hills 345 The Southern Peninsula: Isan 367 East Coast 181