S O U V E N I R O F P A R I S EN U SAN L . B S BY S .

A K L ND : T C E . C. J C O ON . .

1 6 H E N R I E T T A S T R E E T, W. C.

ON TH E RIGHT BANK OF THE PLACE DE LA CONCORDE TO TH E PLACE DE LA

NATION .

I V TH E LE K F TH E . ON FT B AN O QUAI D ’ORSAY TO THE PLACE D ’ITALI E

THE ISLANDS OF TH E CITY AND ST. LOUIS

VI THE E . H ART OF PARIS

TH E MONTMARTRE QUARTER

TH E EA RES MUSIC H LS D CO CER LS TH T , AL , AN N T HAL OF PARIS

TH E B OIS DE BOULOGNE AND TH E PARKS .

GREAT B UILDINGS OFF THE MAIN ROUTES

INDEX L I ST O F I L L U ST RAT I O N S

’ THE AVENUE DE L OPERA On Cover NOTRE DAME

TH E PARK OF ST CL D . OU TH E ARC DE TRIOMPHE PANORAMA OF PARIS F ROM TH E LOUVRE TH E PLACE DE L A CONCORDE

TH E HOTEL DE VILLE

TH E MINI STRY OF FORE IGN AFFAIRS TH E EI FFEL TOWER TH E HOTEL DES INVALID ES TH E CLUNY MUSEUM TH E PALACE OF TH E S ENATE

E DES ES TH E CHURCH OF ST . G RMAIN PR

L I E TH E CHURCH OF ST . SU P C TH E RU E DE R I VOLI TH E OPERA HOUSE TH E CHURCH OF TH E MADELEI NE TH E CHAMBER OF DEPUTI ES TH E CHURCH OF TH E SACRED HEART TH E PALACE OF TH E GRAND TRI ANON TH E PALACE OF LI TTL E TRI ANON THE DAI RY AND TOWER OE PETIT TRI ANON S O U V E N I R O F PA R I S

C H A P T E R I

A G REAT CITY

ARIS "The name co njure s up so m any conflicting t h at memories and impressions , the attempt to give them adequate o r even orderly expression seems to savour of impertinence . Who has understood this wonderful ? The re city have been hundreds to try. Mirabeau said , “ ” S hinx Paris is a p , but I will drag her secret from her ,

- and to day Mirabeau is little more than a name, and the al o f capit his country retains its secret undivulged . Surely so o r no city has ever boasted many lovers , fostered o r o r set higher ideals , achieved greater accomplishments , o r a standard to so many countries , made such important o o r experiments in social , p litical, and religious life, mingled so much success with failure . Paris has practised o f e o f every art living, has drunk deep of the win life, has been a law to itself and a light to the Western world , is a country within a country, unconquerable even in o i defeat . It is a city in which the art f l ving seems t o b e a all m stered by classes . Paris sounds the highest note 2 S O UV E N I R O F P AR I S o f o f extravagance , the lowest note happy economy ; it t o f o f shel ers every form faith and the negation faith , i v e r eve virtue and every v ce . E y art finds stimulus i i s o f w th n its boundarie and so great is the power Paris , t it c tha can draw tribute from all the ivilised world . ' o f e no t The wealthy people every country, G rmany to d r o f excepted , must go to Paris , bow to the ec ees t o its fashions, to subscribe to its varied extravagances , o r be in the movement as long as health money lasts . o ne As soon as visitor leaves , his place is taken by another ; o ne o f as soon as fortune is spent , another source wealth la m is waiting to be tapped . The life de e is dear o en ugh in London , but in Paris is dearer still . Only in Paris has the writer visited restaurants where the menu se t o ut is with no price attached, the bill being merely ’ ’ an expression o f the management s view o f the patron s standing and his right to partake o f what the house t o ff This o f has o er. is but a single aspect Parisian see magnificence ; you others in the Bois , you see others at tou t P a ris the Race Meetings to which adjourns , you may be fortunate enough to catch a glimpse o f others in the ’ u wonderf l private palaces that house the city s wealthiest. The re is little ostentation only the half world descends “ ” to w Off o f what children call sho ing , and the gaiety al Paris is a thing with which money has but sm l concern . t t o The city has se herself deliberately enjoy life , and whether you have ten halfpence o r ten shillings or ten ’ ’ pounds to Spend o n an evening s amusement o r a day s is fo r idleness, there ample value the money , the satis A G R E AT C I TY 3 factory fee ling that the money is well spent . Rich an d and poor are catered for abundantly, a multitude o f cafés enables the Parisian to survey Paris from count f less points o vantage. Add to this that the city has an invigorating air , splendid open places , innumerable monu o f o ments , a finely arranged plan main streets , a t lerable o f i l direction , a sense humour, the w l to enjoy the move ment , a great history, a glorious past , a bright future, and it is possible to understand why the French capital ’ o f appeals to all classes the world s populace , from kings to commercial travellers . To the visitor from Great Britain the two most notice able features o f Parisian life are the comparative absence o f o f time limits , and the consequent privilege eating when o ne is hungry and drinking when o ne is thirsty

- - at almost any hour in the twenty four, and the well nigh f o universal habit o living u t o f doors . The restaurant provides for everybody , and consequently everybody goes o f o n o to the restaurant , and , in spite the duties fo d , it is as cheap to eat in public as in private, and far more

. Y o u o r cheerful can dine for a shilling in Paris, spend ten o n pounds a dinner for two or three people , and in either case there will be people at the next table doing the same thing. The grand boulevards are crowded with cafés ; yo u can sit as long as you like over a cup o f coffee o r a bock at an o ne o f y them , and read in the open air the halfpenny so o f evening papers that are full humour and invective. This o is the more pleasant , because the air f Paris is so d stimulating , and everybo y takes a certain amount of 4 S O UV E N I R O F P A R I S

o n interest in everything that is going . No incident is t o o large o r t o o small to arrest the attention for a moment o f The secularised Sunday is a time great rejoicing, when every haunt o r home o f pleasure in and round the n in capital is thro ged , and before you have been long Paris the city has asserte d her claim t o be regarded as

a country, quite removed in thought and in action from r the industrious France that surrounds her on eve y side .

Her opinions , her movements, her whims and fancies sh e assume an enormous importance ; is , in a sense , the clock by which Western civilisation regulates its o wn n timekeepers . In many respects , hard to define but o t ffi di cult to realise, Paris is unlike any other European she n - co nfide nce capital ; has more i itiative , more self , and o wn o f more independence . She sets up her standard as living, and all who flock to her accept her decisions final. a u She m kes history , and , if she were once again nder a ’ sh e conqueror s heel, would rise in her Splendour to

confound her conquerors . Nobody knows this truth better than the Parisian ; it colours his View o f life and

gives him his abiding measure o f content . He lives o f in receipt homage , his fathers and forefathers did the same ; he stands o n heights from which he can survey

critically every capital o f the world beneath him . Small wonder then that there is a large proportion o f gaiety in

- n o his life, that he has self relia ce and c nfidence and faith

in Paris and hi mself. ’ We cannot rival the Parisian s local patriotism . When f o a Londoner praises the beauty o London , his fell w A G R E A T C I TY 5

The m a citizens are a little surprised . y y admit that he i is right, but w ll reserve to themselves the right to be s doubtful about it . On the other hand , the Pari ian who spoke slightingly of Paris would be a marked man and Y o u suspect . may abuse the Government , you may call every administrator a thief and every statesman a rogue , but your pen must not assail Paris ; it would be safer for l f the publicist t o fa l foul o all France . Every writer who

commands a public is well assured that Paris is perfect , even though he declare that no city has been so ill o e m d g v e and mismanaged since civilisation began . Oddly

enough , the visitor soon learns to share this widespread enthusiasm ; you will no t find it easy to discover the man o r woman who has spent o ne holiday in Paris and does W This not ish to return . fact must be borne in mind, for it places Paris by itself among the capitals o f the o f world . Just as French is the language diplomacy, so ’ o f Paris is the acknowledged ruler the world s social life , holding a place that in all human probability will never f be ceded to the capital o another country. The city o ld o f cannot grow , the spirit modernity lurks in every

corner , and though there are streets and buildings whose

early history belongs to time remote, they are, for the

- o f most part , clothed to day in the garments the twentieth r centu y, and if the builder ceased from troubling and no

new edifice were credited to the next fifty years , Paris in 1 96 0 would probably still look as new and modern as it

- does to day. How the French capital acquired the secret of eternal youth is a problem which none o f its lo vers 6 S O U V E N I R O F PAR I S

have solved ; it may be that the solution to the puzzle lies in the devotion which kindles the ever - living flame

of enthusiasm , the flame that burns everywhere within the wide circle o f the exterior boulevards from the

Boulevard Macdonald to the Boulevard Brune , from the a Boulevard Suchet to the Boulevard D vout . There is enough patriotism within this ample area t o start a new W orld faith or fill a planet . It must be borne well in mind , o ut then , that in a little survey of the attractions and standing sights o f Paris there is something underlying them all which accounts for a large part o f their fascina o f tion , something elusive or intangible , the very spirit ’ - o - - a great city that defies pursuit , as the will the wisp defies the traveller o n a marshy land by night . Words may well be powerless to describe this . Perhaps Gustave “ ” Charpentier in his opera Louise, for which he wrote o wn his libretto , has come nearest in past years to the explanation by adding music to words . History and n politics must be left alone in this book , and passi g reference to home life is the only permissible departure from the lines o f a brief survey o f the city as it lives

t o - in and thrives day, written in order to give hints to tending travellers , or some assistance to those who chance to be in Paris o n a holiday and wish to devote their leisure to an examination , as complete as time will per mit, of its most interesting features . With this end in view we shall deal only with the highways o f Paris and a few o f its most famous environs , the roads along which the rank and file o f visitors are passing through A G R E AT C I TY 7

Su pply all that is required by the most exacting CH APTER II

T H E R I VE R S E I N E TH E river flowing through Paris has much o f the importance that the Thames has to London . They say that more than ships come and go during the l year, and some thirty mil ions pounds worth of goods arrive

annually by the river. Moreover , the Seine is at the o f W service the Parisians , and in all but the bad eather is ” - served by the Bateaux Omnibus , which convey thou sands o f workers to their destination o n week days and

- serve the Sunday pleasure seekers . There are three dis

tinct services in regular work , and the route is extended

o n i . hol days From the Pont Mirabeau near St . Cloud to the Pont National near the Bois de Vincennes the Seine

is spanned by more than a dozen bridges , without includ Il ing those that serve the Cité and the e St . Louis . The o f importance these bridges is the greater, because the o f Paris the visitor clusters round the Seine , and it is easy o f o n to pass from place to place interest , right bank and left ; the bridges are far more serviceable to the average visitor than the river itself. It may be said that modern o f o ne fin Paris favours the right bank the river, where ds the grand boulevards , the theatres , the hotels de luxe , the t e best shops and cafés . On left bank of the Seine are hg

T H E R I VER S E I N E 9

o f the Sorbonne , the Latin Quarter, the Chamber De

u tie s . , P an th eo n , p , the Quartier St Germain , Luxembourg o f and Jardin des Plantes . The islands the Cité and St . al Louis hold the P ais de Justice, and Saint Chapelle , and o f Notre Dame . This simple arrangement is value in divid ing the French capital as Julius C aesar in his Commentaries divided all Gaul , and for the casual visitor it is well to o ne fi take first bank and then the other, and nally to visit I the le de la Cité . In this fashion he can preserve some method in his ramblings , whether they take him on the ne o r o n o side to the north the other to the south . To ll o f — e fo ow some other line interest for xample—, to visit places in the order o f their historical importance is only po ssible to those who know the city well enough to take advantage of its underground railways and omnibus service . The average visitor whose knowledge o f French is limited will prefer to follow a road not easily to be mistaken , the more readily when he remembers that it will enable him to cover all the ground in due course without losing his way, without too many appeals to a kindly and tolerant police o f force , and without the services a guide , this last being an assistance to be avoided at any cost . CHAPTER III

ON T H E RIGHT BAN K OF TH E RIVER—FROM TH E PLACE D E LA CONCORDE TO TH E PLACE D E LA NATION

SOME guide - books suggest that the starting-place for a ramble along the right bank o f the Seine should be chosen in the Place de la Concorde , and it would be hard o ut o f to better the suggestion . The Place opens the o n o ne Avenue des Champs Elysees the hand, and the

Rue de Rivoli on the other. On the north side is the

Rue Royale , on the south the river, crossed here by the

Pont de la Concorde . The Place itself is the finest sa l square in Paris ; some y it stands unrival ed in Europe . Here o—ne sees something of the splendour o f a great world o f capital the imposing stretch the Louvre , the Palace of the Deputies and the State offices along the Quai ’ d Orsa y across the river, and the Arc de Triomphe de ’ ’ l Et o ile Place l Et o ile in the de , from which twelve fine i streets radiate. History was seen in the mak ng in the

Place de la Concorde, for here it was that Louis XVI . and é Marie Antoinette , Charlotte Corday, Philippe Egalit ,

Danton , Camille Desmoulins , Robespierre , together with o f nearly three thousand others less note , fell under the r u nd guillotine. History lingers the Pont de la Concorde, lq

1 2 S O UVE N I R O F PA R I S

f o o . X and hesitation the unfortunate L uis XVI Charles . o ut 1 8 40 was driven of the Tuileries in , and Louis Philippe was compelled to leave eight years later. Little in the history of the Comm une is more regrettable than the insane destruction o f a fine o ld monument like the Palace

o f the Tuileries . Nothing remains save the wings stretch f ing from the Louvre, and these are Government o fices . But before the Louvre is visited the o ld Palais Royal

with garden and galleries , across the Rue de Rivoli , must

claim attention . Built by Cardinal Richelieu , who lived

and died within its walls , it was fired by the Communards 1 8 1 h as in 7 , and been used for Government purposes since

. . . o f its restoration Louis XIII , Louis XIV , Philip

Orleans , Philippe Egalité , Prince Jerome, Napoleon , and others who have played an honourable o r an ignoble part in the making o f French history lived in the Palais ff o ld Royal. The Colonial O ices has its quarters in the

Orleans Gallery , and perhaps the Palais Royal is best known t o visitors by the theatre attached to the end o f o f the western arcade , a home farces , in which the limits o f as decency, measured by the rule applied to the

li . Eng sh stage, are frequently overstepped

Returning to the gardens , we find the entrance to the

Lo uvre past the monuments to Napoleon , Gambetta, and o f Lafayette. Here we have the premier building Paris , and o ne to which throughout the year an endless crowd

of visitors is attracted from all parts o f the world . It may be said that the tourist who can only make a week - end trip to Paris is safe to include the Louvre among places

R I G H T B AN K O F T H E R I V E R 1 3

i o n he finds time to visit , wh le , the other hand , one may doubt whether o ne man in a thousand has found time to examine in detail the mass of treasure the vast build i ing holds . The Treasury occupies the north w ng, but the rest o f the Louvre is given up to the national col i m lections, wh ch are far more co prehensive than they are supposed to be , the picture galleries being no more than o f a part the whole . The Louvre is built round huge fo r courtyards , and is said to have been the site chosen a castle by Philip Augustus in the twelfth o r early thirteenth century . Charles V . used the castle in the s x fourteenth century . Francis I . rebuilt it in the i

t e e nth . . Catherine de Medicis , Charles IX , Henry III

I I . Henry IV . , and Louis X I carried the work along. Then progress languished until the time o f the Great

Napoleon and Napoleon III . So it will be seen that the magnificence o f the imposing but rather gloomy pile is o f the work many brains and centuries , and long days may be spent in examinin g both the building and its varied contents . There are so many guides to the Louvre, both large and small , that it is quite unnecessary in this place to attempt t o describe any class o f contents in detail , but the visitor who has a little leisure will be well advised to look farther than the picture galleries and the ’

. o b ets d art sculpture The engravings , j , the marine and ethnographical collections are of the greatest interest o n fe w and importance . Save Mondays and a special occasions there is no charge for admission . The Salle du ast ab a its th e Mo r an r M , with Egyptian collection ; g Galle y, 1 4 S OU VE N I R O F PAR I S

containing the Persian treasures collected by M . de

Morgan ; the Marsan Pavillon , with its collection o f

' — decorative art fi o m East and West all these might o f appeal to a considerable section visitors to Paris, but o f f very few know the existence o this massed beauty . K o f l eeping to the line the Seine , and sti l remaining t o below the Rue de Rivoli , which it was necessary to turn to enter the Pavillon de Marsan , the stroller, after a passing the Ch telet and the Avenue Victoria, reaches ’ l H Ot e l the famous Place de de Ville , formerly called

. o f Place de Greve This pleasant , busy centre activity was for more than five hundred years the scene o f public o f executions . Victims the Huguenot party , politicians, o f ff murderers , and criminals every degree su ered in the

Place de Greve , and for centuries these executions took o f o ld H Ot e l was place in front the de Ville , which 1 8 1 destroyed by the Commune in 7 , when it fell by o f r fire, and destroyed some hundreds Communa ds who o ld H Ot e l had sought shelter within its walls . The de Ville was the centre o f the various uprisings against the Court just before and during the Revolution . Here

1 8 48 . the Republic was proclaimed in Indeed , one may say that the o ld building had witnessed some o f the most dramatic moments in the public life o f the capital before the crowning drama o f destruction was enacted within its H Ote l was 1 8 76 walls . The present de Ville started in , ff and completed eight years later . It is e ectively isolated , and , built in the French Renaissance style , is very imposing . Within its walls , under the direction of R I G H T B AN K O F T H E R I V E R 1 5

o f ff o f the Prefect the Seine, the municipal a airs the twenty wards (arrondissements) o f Paris are supervised . and e Visitors are admitted , the Grande Salle des F tes ,

and its fine panel and ceiling paintings , are among the n many thi gs worth seeing . ’ Passing along by way o f the Quai de l H Ot e l de

Ville and the Boulevard Henri IV . , the Place de la i l Bast l e is reached . Here stood the famous castle that owed its origin to the enlarging o f one o f the fortified gateways o f old Paris towards the close o f the four

t e e nth . o f century The great fortress , which nothing remains save some o f the stones that form part o f the o f Pont de la Concorde , was enormous strength , and the visitor standing upon the site o f o ne o f the worst state prisons Europe has known may well wonder what course European history would have taken if the governor n 1 4th 1 9 had been well supported o the fatal July 78 . If he had had a couple o f regiments within the walls

with which to meet the attack of the populace , the

effect upon the Revolution might have been surprising. Even the site of the Bastille was the scene o f violent disorders in the times o f the Revolution o f 1 8 48 and 1 8 1 the Commune of 7 . Those who are attracted to the Place de la Bastille by the romance o f its past find o ne t will a monument , hundred and fif y feet high , ' o n an d b ro nze t o resting marble . On the p is a globe

crowned by a figure of Liberty, holding the torch of freedom in o ne hand and the broken chains o f slavery

in the other. He who is a good climber, and does not 1 6 S OU VE N I R O F PAR I S

ff ver ti e su er from g , may climb the hundreds of steps

- within the bronze covered column , and from the top o ut V as look over the city, enjoying as fine a iew must have been given to those who manned the battlements o f the Bastille itself. It is worth while to turn a little from the direction o f the river o n leaving the Bastille du and follow the Rue Faubourg St. Antoine , now redeemed from its o ld revolutionary thoughts and given o f up to the peaceful manufacture furniture, for we soon reach the Place de la Nation, which marks the o f eastern limit o f Paris . In the centre the Place there is a fine bronze group showing the Republic keeping company with all the available cardinal virtues . But o f Parisians have small regard for the labours M . Dalou , and if you asked the average man the special significance f o f o the Place de la Nation in the life Paris , he would o f ignore the question boundaries and of sculpture , and ’ ” au E ice s o r would refer to the Foire Pain d p , Ginger a in bread F ir, held the Place and the adjoining Cours l de Vincenn es about Eastertide . But we will not fol ow the Cours de Vincennes , for it stretches as far as the o f exterior boulevards, with which this brief sketch Paris has no concern . Here, then , w—e come to the end o f the first ramble through Paris one that may have occupied two days or two weeks, in accordance with the time devoted to objects of interest, not only those noted here, but others that have caught the eye along the line of route . Now we can move again to the Place de la Concorde , cross the river by the bridge

CHAPTER IV

ON TH E LEFT BANK OF TH E SEINE—F RO M T H E QUAI D ’ ORSAY TO T H E PLACE D ’ ITALIE HE Government offices favour the left bank of the f river. The Foreign O fice, a very imposing building , o ne o f to b e built nearly seventy years ago , is the first met when the river is crossed , and close by are the Palais ’ d H o nne u r de la Legion and the German Embassy . But the building most prominent as o ne crosses the Pont de

- la Concorde is the two hundred year old Palais Bourbon , o f now the Chamber Deputies . The building adjoining o f is the home the President of the Chamber. Turning away from the course o f the river along the Esplanade des Invalides o ne passes between avenues o f elms t o the h as Place des Invalides , which been converted to a garden , and reaches the H Ot el by way o f groups o f cannon captured ’ o f from various countries , some being records Napoleon s H Ot el campaigns . The des Invalides was built at the end o f the seventeenth century, and was intended for broken o f down soldiers, but it is not used to the extent its capacity. Entrance is gained through the garden by way ’ o f d H o nne ur n o n the C o ur , the buildi gs either side the ’ 13 o n Cour d Ango ulém e and de . Victoire the right and 1 8

L E F T BAN K O F T H E S E IN E 1 9

’ the Cour d Au st e rlit z and de la Valeur on the left being devoted respectively to collections o f weapons and trophies of various kinds , of more than passing interest to

o f . the student history. The Eglise St Louis is at the ’ end o f the Cour d H o nne ur ; it is filled with flags captured in various campaigns . Behind the first church there is another o ne built for royalty to attend ser D Om e vices . Above this church is the famous des n Invalides , with la tern and cross on top rising some 3 50 ff feet , and gilded . Before the Ei el Tower was built the Dome o f the Invalides was the most outstanding o f object to be seen from the heights Paris . Right m b I o To . under the D me is the of Napoleon , in an Open crypt . The pavement is a mosaic , figures of great i generals surround the crypt , the l ght is subdued and ff mysterious . Away to the right the Ei el Tower is to be 1 8 8 9 seen ; it was completed in , is nearly a thousand feet high , and undoubtedly the tallest monument in the world , and perhaps the ugliest . It stands upon a quadrangle

1 5 0 . 1 90 about yards square The first platform is feet, 3 8 0 90 5 the second feet , and the third feet from the o n ground , and this last there is a glass pavilion that e o f t o o f will hold hundr ds people . At the very p the

Tower is the famous electric light , that can be seen t ff nearly fif y miles from Paris . The Ei el Tower boasts

a theatre and a restaurant, while on the second and third

platforms , which can be reached in comfort by lifts , there

are bars and refreshment places .

Moving to the east from the Invalides , rather in the 2 0 S OUV E N I R O F PA R I S

o f direction the river, and entering the Boulevard St . dneu r Germain , thefl may reach the very old and interest o f ing church St . Germain des Pres . The Abbey o f

St . Germain , to which it was formerly attached , was o f established in the middle the sixth century , and some parts of the existing edifice are o f great antiquity. Restoration was found necessary some seventy years i G ago , but it was accompl shed with taste. Old othic s o f culpture from the church , together with a part the

- original chapter house , may be seen in a small square by ’ l Ab b a e the church in the Rue de y , from which street o f entrance is gained to the cellars the Abbey . While in this neighbourhood the Church o f St . Sulpice is wort h visiting , for there are few finer in Paris ; the choir and the

- o f music have a well deserved reputation . Some the pic tures are very attractive to art lovers , and the road leads from St . Germain des Pres to the Luxembourg, which is the next point Of special interest o n the left bank o f the

Seine . The fountain in the Place St. Sulpice, adorned with

f . statues o Fenelon , Bossuet , and others , is worth seeing It provides us with yet another reminder o f the wealth o f Paris in the matter o f monuments to her great public men . Their name is legion , and for the most part they are o f more than average merit from an artistic stand

St . , point . From Sulpice we soon reach the Luxembourg o f which consists o f the Palace the Senate, a modern l Picture Gallery , a Sculpture Ga lery , and some charming t gardens , that seem pleasant , peaceful, and at ractive at L E F T B AN K O F T H E S E I N E 2 1

every season of the year. Surely there is no more restful o f corner Paris than the Luxembourg, none in which leisure hours may be spent more peacefully and pro fit ably . Though the galleries are always well patronised the place never seems overcrowded , and it has a certain o f o n e o f suggestion the country , though its boundaries is ’ o f the Boul Mich , as students the Latin Quarter call the

Boulevard St . Michel . The Palais de Luxembourg was built for Marie de o o f f I . Medici , widow Henry V , in the early years the o f seventeenth century , on the site an old ducal residence o f - o f the Piny Luxembourg family. Under the direction the Great Napoleon the place was partly rebuilt for the sat accommodation of the Senate . The Chamber of Peers there for a term , and for the past thirty years the Luxem du bourg has been known also as the Palais Senat.

Napoleon I . lived for a time in the Luxembourg . When the Senate is not sitting visitors may gain admit tance to certain rooms , including the Salle des Seances , which will hold more than a thousand people . The bed room and another room used by Marie de Medici are now used as a refreshment room . There must be nearly a dozen fine apartments , including a Throne Room ; all are decorated with pictures and sculpture . The President of the Senate occupies a building adjoining the Palace , known

- as the Petit Luxembourg. Richelieu lived there in the o f early years the seventeenth century. The majority o f foreign visitors to the Luxembourg are concerned chiefly with the Musée , which is filled with the finest work o f the 2 2 S O U VE N I R O F PA R I S

modern men , both sculptors and painters , and is situated o f c in the old orangery the Palace . A spe ial interest t at aches to this collection , for one finds in it the works o f o f u the leaders modern tho ght , the men at whom the so authorities often look askance . Now and again some masterpiece o f nineteenth - century art is transferred to the Louvre to take rank among the classics , and there is often a great outcry from the academic painters and their ’ “ ” o f Man many pupils . The passing e t s Olympia from the o Luxembourg to the Louvre is a case in p int . In the ’ Luxembourg some o f Rodin s finest pieces have been seen, and the collection of Impressionist pictures in the Caillebotte Bequest room has taught observant visitors to o f Cezanne appreciate the work , Degas , Manet, Monet , a nd Pissarro, Charles Sisley. In addition to pictures and

sculpture the Musée exhibits medals , pottery , pewter, and l n some fine o d Gobeli s tapestry . Beyond the rooms the visitor finds the only Renais

sance garden in Paris ; there are stately trees , ample open l spaces , and striking statuary ; a band plays severa times ai during the week in the afternoon. The Medici fount n

is worth seeing, and across the garden is the Odéon

Theatre. Leaving the Luxembourg by way o f the Boulevard

, St . Michel the famous Latin Quarter is reached the o f oldest part o f Paris o n the left bank the Seine , and ’ L U niv e rsit é known o f o ld time as , because it was the

, centre o f learning . Here are the Ecole de Médecine

s , which gives its name to a treet , and the Ecole Pratique

L E F T B AN K O F T H E S E I N E 2 3 where the laboratories are built. Here are the famous in o f Musée de Cluny , which the industrial arts the

Renaissance may be studied in detail , and the Sorbonne ,

P antheo n . the College de France , the , the St Genevieve

Library , the Ecole Polytechnique, and other institutions . n o f Somethi g like a square , formed by a part the

Boulevard St . Michel , the river , the Rue Monge , and the

Boulevard de Port Royal holds the Latin Quarter , the students and the greater part of the buildings in which they work , and this is an extremely interesting o f o ld corner Paris . Houses are and streets are dingy, but accommodation is comparatively cheap, and the restaurants and cafés of all sorts and sizes that abound o n all sides cater for the students in most generous

' o f o f fashion . The history this old corner Paris is full o f romance, and has attracted a thousand pens , until to - day the fame o f the Latin Quarter is known through out central and western Europe . In the main thorough fares the students may be encountered On any evening ; for the most part they indu lge in some slight eccentricity o f costume that stamps them immediately . They seem to be

- happy and reckless enough , but are generally law abiding , and appear to give little trouble to the authorities . The numbers o f students in and round the gathered from the size o f some of the look after them . For example, the large 40 0 in the Ecole de Médecine will accommodate 1 . The

Sorbonne, founded by Robert de Sorbon for poor scholars

of theology in the thirteenth century, and now the Uni C 2 4 S O UV E N I R O F PA R I S

o f versity Paris , has twelve thousand students , including several thousand women , and all the lectures are free . 3 5 0 0 The large amphitheatre can hold people . The

College de France is not connected with the University , but is controlled by the Government , and has nearly fifty t o professors , whose services are given freely scholars . The Ecole Polytechnique is the civil and military o and t wo o r engineering sch ol, is used by three 1 hundred students . The Ecole Coloniale and the Ecole de Pharmacie are other important institutions ; but the

Institut de France , including the Académie Francaise,

e t - the Académie des Inscriptions Belles Lettres , the

m - Académie des Sciences , the Acadé ie des Beaux Arts , e t and the Académie des Sciences , Morales Politiques , lies in the Quartier St . Germain , which comes before the Latin Quarter as o ne follows the left bank o f the Seine

. (le from the Pont de la Concorde In the Quartier St . o ne Germain finds , in the Rue Bonaparte, the Ecole des

- Beaux Arts and the Académie de Médecine, and both are o f freely used by the men and women the Latin Quarter.

- o f This is a hard working strenuous corner the city, fo r o r wherein fine teaching may be had little nothing, and the casual visitor can have but little idea o f the

vast amount o f work done in term time . The idea that the Latin Quarter is the home o f dissipation and idleness lingers only among the uninformed .

Beyond the Rue Monge, which has been suggested o f as the eastern boundary Bohemian Paris , though the

1 i e e Both Eiffel and Bleriot were tra n d h re. L E F T B AN K O F T H E S E I N E 2 5

b e o f suggestion must not taken literally, the next place considerable interest to be reached is certainly the Jardin des Plantes . It is readily accessible by road , by rail , by

- o r fiv e . tram by steamboat , and covers some seventy acres l Estab ished nearly three hundred years ago , it was neither more nor less than a large herb garden intended primarily to supply medicinal herbs fo r the use o f the Court . e Early in the ighteenth century, while he was still a ff o young man , Bu on was appointed direct r. He lived in

o ff . the Rue Ge roy St Hilaire near by , and after his death , o u t when the Revolution had broken , the royal menageries were transferred to the gardens , and the place was called the Natural History Museum . To day it o f al consists an important botanic garden , a menagerie , a ae natural history g lleries , a pal ontological collection , and a some wonderful glass houses . Needless to s y the l garden and the co lection are free to the public , or that a band and an admirable series of refreshment places are to be found . Paris is full of free entertainments , free teaching, free music . There is a holiday for the poorest o f o the po r when they have the leisure to enjoy it , and , when he takes holiday, the Parisian is always cheerful and responsive . This gaiety is nowhere more marked than in the o n o n Jardin des Plantes a Sunday, although this day some of the exhibits , including the hothouses , are closed . fi ll To everything in the garden a de nite place is a otted , and to the work of the directors we o we the introduction o f many trees that decorate the park squares , gardens , and 2 6 S O UV E N I R O F PA R I S — t ee o f . s re d s r ts England The—plants have various label , yellow, green , blue , black and each colour signifies some o f special quality the growth to which it is attached . The Botanical Gardens boasts the first acacia tree brought to Europe . The menagerie holds a fairly ex o ff f tensive collection , divided into dif erent sections o f the ground . Fierce animals are not to be found in the parts given to tame ones ; they are kept in one place by themselves . There is a part reserved for very large beasts , a pit for bears , an aviary, a pheasantry, a reptile ” F o r o f house, and a Palais des Singes . the service the place and for lecture work there is a staff o f about twenty professors , while the lecture hall attached to the Jardin will hold nearly as many students as there are animals in the menagerie . The Natural History Galleries are second to none in Europe ; they are devoted to zoology, geology, mineralogy, botany , comparative anatomy ,

ae . pal ontology , and anthropology It is to be feared that a hurried visit to the Jardin des Plantes is o f little value ; limit o f Space forbid more than a hurried description . If the gardens , living collections , and galleries are to be examined carefully many days will be required, but those who have only a few hours to spare should not stay away o n that account . Coming from the Jardin des Plantes along the Boule ’ H O it al o n - vard de l p , one sees the left hand side a vast and f I . o r gloomy building. Built by Louis XI I an arsenal , it has been converted into an asylum for the insane and for the study of nervous diseases , and is none other than

2 8 S O UV E N I R O F PA R I S gramme that leaves so many gaps in the record o f a majority o f those who go to Paris to study what the city has to teach . The writer having tried several times to master the plan o f Paris fell back at last U pon the t o scheme he has outlined here, find that it worked quite well. T H E CH U RCH O F S T . G E R MAIN was n uts

CHAPTER V

O TH E ISLANDS OF TH E CITY AND ST . L UIS I T is hard to realise when crossing from either side o f the Seine that the Cité is the original Paris , but this is no more than the truth . The Cité is the original

' L utetza P a risioru m was , and the only Paris known to the Roman and the Frank . It has been restored le D u c in a charming and plausible drawing by , in which the Cité appears as o f old time crowned with white buildings . As the centuries passed the islands in the Seine were not large enough to hold an ever increasing population , and business interests developed on the right bank while the University was established

- n t . o the lef , where the Latin Quarter is to day At the po int where the island is narrowest stands the oldest o f all the Paris bridges , the Pont Neuf, built towards the beginnin g o f the seventeenth century and remodelled in n the nineteenth . Tur ing to look at the island from the o f Ne u f o ne se e middle the Pont , may the Prefecture o f l H Ot el D Po ice, the Palais de Justice, the ieu , and tower n a ing above everythi g else the Cathedr l of Notre Dame . Beyond the Palais de Justice is the broad Boulevard du o n Palais , the best thoroughfare the island , meeting the 0 1 Boulevard de Sebastopol the right bank , with the 219 30 S OUV E N I R O F PA R I S

o n Boulevard St . Michel the left . Other streets parallel to the Boulevard du Palais and giving free passage to the rest o f the town are the Rue de la Cité and the Rue ’ d Aréo le , while the Pont St . Louis , running from the side du of the Morgue to the Rue Bellay, connects the two ’ islands of the Cite and St . Louis . The Rue des Deux

. o f Ponts unites St Louis with either side Paris , while almost at the end o f the island another broad thorough fare , the Boulevard Henri IV . , joins the Boulevard St . G o n ermain the left bank with the Palais de la Bastille . It will be seen from the brief description that the islands are little m ore than names ; it may be doubted whether any save a small percentage o f those who cross from o ne side o f Paris to the other realise the fact that Y e t o f the islands exist . , for all that the tide a great ’ city s life has done much to obliterate landmarks , there

o ld- is a certain peaceful aspect about these time p laces . The quays o n either side are monopolised by the book ll l ll sellers , among whose sta s the bibliophi es sti pursue

- their well nigh hopeless quest for treasures, and the streets round t h e great cathedral do little to attract the full stream o f traffic. It is well to enter this o ld part o f Paris by way o f the

Pont Neuf, which in days long past was the happy ’ o f an d meeting ground the city s rogues vagabonds , and can supply many an interesting page to the history o f t earlier Paris . The first building to be no iced is the o f i o ld Prefecture Police , establ shed in the municipal a barr cks . The Sergents de Ville play a wonderful part T 3 1 T H E C I TY AND S . L O UI S

r o f , , in the histo y Paris , and are very capable honest and o obliging . No city in Europe can b ast a greater number of b ad characters than Paris , and it is only the vigilance of the police that makes a peaceful existence possible . The extent o f their labours is not to be judged by the long list o f outrages that some o f the papers publish ff daily ; the truth is that the police force is understa ed and is no t able to deal with the ever - increasing bands ul of desperadoes , whose exploits render the exterior bo e v ards o f o f , the Bois de Boulogne, and many the slums

Paris very undesirable after dark . The police do their

best , and if they could be reinforced would doubtless sweep the city clear o f the element that disgraces and degrades it. But as long as the Government is unable f to maintain a force su ficient to grapple with disorder, and magistrates hesitate to inflict severe punishment , o ff we can hope for no better condition f a airs . The H Ot e l Dieu is the next place of importance ; they o ne o f o f say it is the oldest hospitals in Europe, the date its establishment being set down somewhere in the seventh

century. Even then it was used as a nunnery and a

- home for pilgrims before it became a hospital , and to day

- it is a well managed institution, capable of receiving more

than eight hundred patients . The hospital must be

passed over with no more than a very brief mention , so o f o f but, like many the great institutions Paris , there o f is a wealth interesting history attaching to it . Some people believe that the most prominent buildings in Paris begin their history about the time o f the Re v o lu 32 S O U V E N I R O F PA R I S

tion, perhaps because the Great Upheaval has left its

mark in so many places , and because the hands o f the first and third Napoleon did so much to alter the general o f aspect the city. To some extent this belief is per missible ; at first sight the nineteenth century seems to o r have played a greater part in the building, rather the o f rebuilding, of the capital than any its predecessors .

But the Ile de la Cité and the quarter of the University, two districts well within the range o f the average o f o wn o ne visitor, have quite an atmosphere their ,

‘ with which the nineteenth century has little o r no con o f cern . The storms the great Revolution broke over

- them but left them well nigh unchanged , and the modern improvements have done no more than express them

selves in broad thoroughfares and cleaner streets . It is ’ o ne o f d Aréo le through these streets , the Rue , that we ’ may reach the city s finest monument , the Cathedral of

Notre Dame. t o No great cathedral known the writer, who may

claim to have seen nearly all the stateliest in Europe , i has a more strange appearance, for it is g rdled round by

high houses, and the towers are innocent of Spires . Notre Dame has become familiar to thousands o f untravelled ’ English readers through the medium o f Victor Hugo s o f great romance, and it challenges the supremacy the

Louvre as an attraction to the visitors from all countries .

Its origin is known to date from the twelfth century, but historians tell us that even then a church had sto od upon

the same site fo r nearly se ven hundred years . Notre

34 S O UV E N I R O F PA R I S t o the choir is the original fif te e nt h - century statue o f

Notre Dame de Paris . The choir screen h as some

- li wonderful fourteenth century stone re efs , and the organ , now more than a hundred and fifty years Old , 6 0 0 has over 0 pipes . Beyond the stonework and th e o f i so statue the Virg n , deeply venerated by the devout , the interior o f Notre Dame has little that is very o ld or o f t o noticeable , but the view Paris be obtained from the o n platform the top of the north tower is most impressive , and should not be missed by those who can climb four

- hundred steps without over exertion . I recall it best o n a grey day when a single shaft o f sunlight struck o f oe the dome the Sacré C ur, leaving all Paris in the o f shadow the clouds . Had a skilled painter caught that moment he might have given it immortality.

From Notre Dame the tourist, whose tastes were a morbid , was wont to gratify them by visit to the t o Morgue close by . The place is no longer open a o the public . It is a station erected half a century g for police purposes . The Seine brings to an end the earthly troubles o f many who carry upon them no marks f o f o identification , and it is the custom the authorities to freeze the dead bodies and exhibit them o n slabs behind so s o r plate glass , that tho e who have lost a friend n relative may se e if the missing o e is there . Though o many f those in the Morgue have died a violent death , there is nothing repulsive about their appearance ; there ne o f the only sentiment evoked is o pity , but a series o f photographs to be seen by the side o f the entrance T 35 T H E C I TY AND S . L O UI S

o f is generally quite revolting . Here in the heart a o f great city, in the shadow its chief monument to o ne v i religion , realises that ci lisation must have its f o f ailures , and that for some those whose poor remains await the last rite of burial lif e was even more hard than it was for their forbears when the first church rose upon the site now occupied by Notre Dame . I 1 The le St . Louis s small , peaceful , and comparatively ’ o f l Ile l s insignificant . The Church St . Louis en worth Is visiting, and there to be seen on the Quai the renovated H Ote l Lauzun, in which Theophile Gautier and Baude o f F l u r a l e s d .Ma . laire , author the , lived for many years Admirers of Gobelins tapestry may obtain admission to H Ot e l o f the Lambert , the Palace the Czartoryski in the Rue St. Louis . But when these three places have o f I been visited , the attractions the le St . Louis will be exhausted , and the visitor who has explored the banks of the river and the islands may no w look around him for a fresh point of view. There will be f o n no di ficulty in finding e . CHAPTER VI

THE HEART OF PARIS

HE district best known to those who come to Paris

for pleasure is not to be found along the river. Visitors go to the places mentioned in the last few chapters to indulge in sight- seeing o f the kind that is at once interesting and obligatory. For shopping, pro m enadin n i o f g , eating, dri king, and enjoy ng the freedom the cafés they favour a part that takes the form o f an o n o ne irregular pentagon , with the Rue Royal side, the o n Rue de Rivoli the other, the Boulevard de Sebastopol o n a a third, while the fourth and fifth sides are m de up o f o f two groups boulevards , Madeleine, Capucines , and l o ne Po isso niere Ita iens being , and the Montmartre , , and

Bonne Nouvelle with a part o f the Boulevard St . Denis o f the other . Within this ample area the greater part the money brought by visitors to Paris is spent ; here are the o f best hotels, the finest places entertainment , the shops with the most extravagant luxuries o f twentieth - century

c . ivilisation The Rue de Rivoli , second to no street in ’ o f Paris in point interest, owes its name to Napoleon s 1 9 victory over the Austrians at Rivoli in 7 7 . It starts

from the Place de la Concorde , and , as far as the Louvre , the houses are fronted by in arcade with columns , and T H E H E A RT O F P A R I S 37

du there are long windows above . Beyond the Rue Louvre o f the Rue de Rivoli is later date , having been built by o f Napo leon III . A special feature the Rue de Rivoli is its collection of private hotels . In the same street, n o f du opposite the Mi istry Finance , is the Place Palais al o f a o ne Royal , and ong it, by way the The tre Francais , ’ l O éra may enter the fine Avenue de p , a thoroughfare o f worthy a great capital . From the beginning it there is a clear view of the National Opera House across the

Boulevard des Capucines . Looking from the end of the ’ du a l O éra Place The tre Francais , down the Avenue de p , ’ o f l O éra the Opening the boulevard and the Place de p , the Englishman must think rather regretfully o f his o wn so national opera, uncomfortably housed between a market for greengrocery and a renovated slum . The question o f an uninterrupted View was considered by the o f municipality to be such great importance , that the

Avenue has never been planted , and the trees that make such an agreeable addition to many o f the main thorough o f fares Paris are here conspicuous by their absence, Perhaps to atone for this the shops are remarkably

attractive . The Opera House itself is the largest theatre in the world , but its capacity for accommodating visitors

is not in proportion to its size . It covers about three

acres , cost in all about two million pounds , and can only house about two tho—usand spectators . The facade is in three storeys , a seven arched portico on the ground floor,

- the a thirty columned loggia on first floor, and a very

elaborate attic above . The vestibu le is reached through 38 S O UVE N I R O F PA R I S

e t n gild d gates , and here is a mag ificent grand staircase .

o f - Columns many coloured marble rise to the third floor. ’ o f There are five tiers boxes , and a subscriber s f oyer communicating with the stage in addition to the f oyer ’ da u blic. p Charles Garnier s masterpiece, which took l thirteen years to bui d , is quite the most sumptuous place i b ut imag nable , the management has not been very o f successful late years . Performances are given o n

Mondays , Wednesdays, and Fridays , and during the o n winter season Saturdays also . ’ Turning back across the Pla ce de l Opéra and Boule vard des Capucines the entrance to the Rue de la Paix is Na o leo n reached , formerly the Rue p . It is the chief resort o f s of women fashion , for the most extravagant dre smakers and jewellers of Paris have established themselves there . Ve ndOm e The Rue de la Paix Opens out into the Place , on o ld o I V which of time the Duc de Vend me , son of Henry o f had his palace . In the middle the Place there is a ’ o f sur tall column , in imitation Trajan s in Rome. It is

f . mo unted by a figure o Napoleon I . as Emperor The bronze in which the column is so rich came from melting down more than a thousand cannon captured by Napoleon from the armies of Austria and Russia. On the right hand side o f the Place o ne sees the Ministry of Justice.

At the end o f the Place Vendome is the long Rue St .

o f o f . Honoré, a continuation the faubourg the same name o f Moliere was born in this street , which some houses are k l , very o d. It ends in the Rue des Halles and by wal ing up this street we may reach the Halles Centrales . These

40 S O UVE N I R O F PAR I S

i o f h mself. The Rue Royale is comparatively modern f o r o f date in its present aspect, in the time the Com o l mune the d street suffered severely. It is best known for its restaurants that cater for those who keep late

hours . At first these houses were an exclusively Parisian d institution , but to ay they are cosmopolitan , and more than o n e relies upon the patronage o f high living and ex extravagant Visitors . The cooking is good , the wine celle nt , and the music serviceable , a dance as a wind up t o a late supper being nothing o u t o f the common in one o o r two f the more popular houses . At the t o p o f the street the Boulevard Madeleine opens o u t of the Place of o r o f that name, and here stands the Madeleine Church

St . Mary Magdalen , famous for its grand organ and o n wonderful sacred music , which great occasions is o n o f orchestral . The church was built the foundations o ne o f who an older by order the Great Napoleon , wished

it to be a Temple Of Glory , but it was not completed o f until the middle the nineteenth century, when the o f original purpose was overlooked . It is Splendid length , o r three hundred and fifty feet more, is surrounded by

Corinthian columns , and has a strange lack Of windows .

The massive doors are of bronze. When the church ,

which has fine pictures and sculpture, has been inspected the visitor enters the most fascinating quarter of modern o r l in Parisian life , the grand boulevards the bou evards

i u rs o f o u t t ér e , seven which , as has been pointed , are part o f the pentagon in which the ramble indicated in the

chapter is set . There are others that complete the semi T H E H E A R T O F P A R I S 41

circle and extend until they reach the far end of the Ru e de Rivoli , whose beginnings we left by the Place de la

Concorde when turning into the Rue Royale . But these l remaining bou evards , four in number, are of less pro

m ine nce . , and will not need to be mentioned in detail The most important of all are those to be encountered s P o isso niére now, namely, the Capucines , Italien , , and

Montmartre . The life o f the boulevards is so mething that London and other great cities o f the British Empire might imitate

with advantage . For the most part the boulevards inte

rieurs have wooden roadways , the pavements are asphalted ,

and , flanking them, are long avenues of carefully tended

trees, a great attraction . Free public benches , and chairs

that may be occupied for a penny, are in evidence , news

- paper kiosks and flower stalls are seen at short intervals , and o n either side o f the road there are countless cafés brasseries and , whose little tables and chairs stretch far

o ut o n . to the broad pavement Here the idler, the visitor , dneu r o f n the fl , the man business returni g from his o labours , may Spend a pleasant hour over his cup f ff o r a erit kale ido co ee , his book , his p if , watching the ff scopic scene that pavement and roadway have to o er, o r reading his evening paper with its fierce denunciation o f everybody and everything with which the management

is not in agreement . Parisians are quite independent o f clubs ; for a city o f its size and wealth there are very bra few. Every café and sserie h as its o wn regular t f pa rons , in many cases little groups o friends united 42 S O UV E N I R O F PA R I S

by business interests o r because they have come t o the capital from the same province . There is endless entertainment for o ne and all at a price within the reach o f everybody who has a few pence to Spare and dl an i e hour in which to spend them . If the cafés are empty in the morning they make up for their inactivity t ’ in the af ernoon and evening . From four o clock to midnight and later they are crowded , the waiters are

ll . never sti They do not worry their customers . If yo u like to pass three hours over a twopenny half f penny cup of cof ee and a halfpenny paper, you have an unchallenged right to do so . In the evening a man will bring his wife and children to the café o f his choice after dinner , and for a trifling cost they can enjoy all the sights of the pavement in comfort until it is time to go to bed ; and by reason o f the multitude o f round tables and the excellent profit on low - priced o f refreshment , the owners cafés have no reason to com plain . Their season lasts from January to December, and thanks to the character o f their patrons and to the alert

- o . ness f the lynx eyed waiters , they make no bad debts o ut o f Small wonder if the Parisian live doors, and is content to pay high rent for rather scanty acco m m o dation at home . The greater part of his waking life is spent in the Open air.

The Boulevard de la Madeleine is short , and joins its neighbour at the top o f the Rue des Capucines . The next two boulevards , des Capucines and des Italiens , hold some o f the finest shops in Paris and some o f the T H E H E AR T O F P A R I S 43

I n most expensive restaurants . the Rue Drouot, where the Boulevards des Italiens and Montmartre meet , is the ’ H Ot el di t o o u r . famous Drouot , correspon ng Christie s ’ o b ets d art Here the art sales are held , and j together

' with bijou terze et vertu e realise enormous prices if they

are really good and Paris is full . The sales are public, o f but in Paris , as elsewhere, there is a ring dealers , and the man who tries to work o n his o wn account is

like to fare badly , and to find experience his most valu

able asset . There is nothing very striking about the P o isso niere o f Boulevards Montmartre and , which the o f last takes its name from the adjoining street , which lay o f fishm arke t old time in the way the , but a little distance down the long Rue du Faubourg P o isso niere is the Con se rv at o ire o f Music , presided over by M . Faure , who

succeeded Cherubini , Auber, and Ambroise Thomas . ff o f The teaching, which employs a sta nearly a hun

dred professors , is gratuitous , and the Grand Prix of the Institution gives the fortunate winner an allowance of £1 2 0 per annum for four years o f study in Rome and i in Germany . Th s coveted award has fallen to nearly

all the most distinguished musicians in Paris , and has o ne r been granted for hundred years o more . The Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle h as a theatre and an inter esting church o r two in its immediate neighbourhood ;

and . the Boulevard St Denis is met by the Rue St . o ld Denis , said to be as as any street in Paris . The

Porte St . Denis will attract attention here . It was erected at the end of the seventeenth century in memory 44 S O UVE N I R O F P A R I S

o f the Rhine campaigns of Louis XIV . Just past it we arrive at the Boulevard de Sebastopol and turn w o f do n in the direction the Chatelet, but before we gain the site o f the o ld prison the Rue de Rivoli is t o reached , and with it the pentagon be explored is

completed . o f This walk has been through the Paris the visitor, the part that is best known to those who have fought

f w o f - the first e rounds sight seeing . The districts that remain to be explored are widely separated and o f vary ing interest ; it is not easy to pass from place to place o n ffi foot as has been possible hitherto , but the tra c o f facilities are the best in Paris, and whether by train , o r l tram , bus , it is easy to get very rapid y to any given point . It takes a long time to learn how to deal with the Paris omnibus ; it goes in so many diff erent

directions , and most people wait for their omnibus at o one f the offices . The passengers ask for a numbered o u t in ticket, and the places are given order ; the con o u t b so ductor calls the num ers until his vehicle is full,

that there is never any crowding . It is permissible t o change from an omnibus that does not go all the way ’ to o ne the passenger s destination into that does , but this system o f co rresp o nda nces though invaluable to the o f li o r Parisian , is small use to the visitor who has ttle no

French . Covered motor buses and trams are to be met o ld acre with in all directions. The timefi is giving place

- t axim ét re to the taxi auto and , but these last have a method o f reckoning distance that has a tendency to magnify

46 S O UVE NI R O F P AR I S

Paris if there be a sporting chance o f meeting an in offensive stranger with a fairly well - lined pocket and o f little knowledge the city and its ways . If a gu ide l ffi o f a must be taken , it is wel to go to the o ces Thom s ’ o r o f firm s Cook Sons , one the reputable competitors , and never under any circumstances t o accept services off ered in the streets . By the side Of great houses like the Grand and Continental hotels on the chief boule v ards the unsuspecting visitor is often hailed by men who wish to act as guides , but in most cases are no more than the agents o f the leas t reputable houses in o n the great city , men who live by carrying a class o f trade that does not call for specification here. CHAPTER VII

TH E MONTMART RE QUARTER ONE o f the first trips beyond the circle o f the grand boulevards and the chief buildings o f Paris is to the o f heights the Montmartre , and it may be reached either o ne o f o f o r by the lines the Métro, by cable tramway, on o f foot . From the corner the Boulevard de la Madeleine the road runs past the Gare St . Lazare and along the ’ Rue d Am st e rdam to meet the exterior boulevards at the

Place de Clichy . Turning to the right here until the ’ Place d Anv e rs is reached the road to the heights lies u along the Rue de St einke rq e to the Square St . Pierre . By the side there is choice o f steps o r cable tram - line to the Butte Montmartre, standing more than three hundred o f ff feet above the level the Seine , and a ording a magni fic e nt panorama o f Paris if the day o r the night be clear.

From this hill Paris has been bombarded . Here the Prussian and Russian forces joined issue with Napoleon’ s 1 8 1 4 o f legions in , here the bloody rebellion the Com o u t 1 8 1 mune broke in March 7 , and here Marshal Mac ’ ’ Mahon s and General G allife t s soldiers bombarded the o f Communards in May the same year. This famous

hill , whose history is said to begin in the third century, when St. Denis was put to death upon it, is now crowned 48 S OUVE N I R O F PAR I S

o f by the stately Basilica of the Sacred Heart , which the 1 8 5 l building, started in 7 , sti l awaits completion . It is

chiefly remarkable for its vast dome and clock tower,

and if the view from the hill is fine, the view from the

dome is still more remarkable , stretching on a fine day a to the hills of Chatillon nd Meudon . In the immediate o f o neighbourhood the Basilica is the Church of St . Peter f l Montmartre , a Benedictine monastery , estab ished in the

twelfth century , and entirely renovated in the twentieth . o n The air the heights is very fresh and bracing, and in

- o ff i far days the hill was crowned with w ndmills . Two o f these mills are to be seen in the Rue Lepic , in the o garden f the Moulin de la Galette . Back in the Boulevard de Clichy the visitor may gather impressions o f a side o f life to which this country

can Offer no counterpart . He may visit the Cabarets Artistiques and the Cabarets Illu sio nist e s ; he may attend o r o f a Bal Tabarin , spend part a night and morning

in the Moulin de la Galette . The Cabarets Artistiques f i l give entertainments o the variety k n—d . There are ha f a- dozen famous and notorious ones the Cabaret des

uat z- Q Arts , the Boite a Fursy , Les Noctambules , and the Cabaret Aristide Bruant—but nobody who does not understand Parisian slang (a rg o t) can expect to get much amusement from the entertainment unless he h as an obliging friend wh o understands the jokes and is not t o o o f modest to explain them . The Cabarets Hell and Heaven and the Cabaret du Néant are the leading n ti s o f Illu sio nist e s pre se t a v e the Cabarets , and must be T HE CH U RCH OF T H E SACRE D H EART

T H E M ON TM ART R E QUA R T E R 49

f seen to be believed . Montmartre swarms with ca és , cabarets , and the rest, some of which , judged from an insular standpoint , are an outrage upon decency ; but it is well to remember that we do not possess the outlook of the Latin races , and much that we should regard as offensive is merely amusing to the patrons of these houses . if u v l The d fic lty in the Boule ard de C ichy and its environs , the Place and Rue Pigalle, the Rue Lepic , and the Rue

Victor Massé , is for the Englishman to realise that the ff and Parisian ear and eye are not o ended , for the Parisian i to realise that if the Engl sh ear is not shocked , it is a r o t l merely because the g has an unfami iar sound , and that if the eye is shocked , it is because the Sights are neither familiar nor attractive . The café concert flourishes o n and round the Boule vard de Clichy ; it consists generally of a second - rate variety entertainment . An artless visitor seeing that there is no charge for admission will frequently wander

- f into the café concert room and take one o the best seats . Before he is comfortably settled a waiter will descend upon o f him for an order, and whether he ask for a glass beer , ff o r a cup of co ee, an elaborate drink , he will find that u o f the price is r led , not by the value what is put before him , but by the relation of his seat to the stage. He may pay half- a - crown for W hat would have cost Sixpence o r in a back row. Down to a year two ago the Moulin o n o ne o f Rouge , the Place Blanche , was the great attractions of Montmartre. It was called a Theatre révues Concert , and presented and popular musical plays . 50 S OUV E N I R O F P A R I S

Yo u could sit o n the balconies and look o n o r join in o f was the dancing in the body the hall , and there always the additional attraction o f a quadrille danced by pro fe ssio nal o f women , who exhibited an immense amount m o f gar ents, which the original colour was white. It was t o a monstrously dull and vulgar entertainment that the Red Mill with all its sails moving and all its lights aglow o f invited visitors , and the collapse the business is hardly t o u t o f o be regretted . The Rue Lepic Opens the Place o ne al Blanche , and in it finds the Moulin de la G ette with o n a ball , three nights in the week , to which admission f costs fifteen pence . This is a genuine af air enough , and

is worth a visit , for the Moulin de la Galette attracts the

- a nd so work girls of Paris by the score, they are attractive ff in the mass, that their attendant cavaliers su er consider It l ably by comparison . is wel not to go to the Boulevard de Clichy and the curious streets surrounding it with any o f signs wealth in evidence , and it is better still not to

stay late unless accompanied . Perhaps it would not be o u t of place to conclude this brief review o f Montmartre with a short description of the entertainments in o ne o r two o f the best - known

houses , with preliminary apologies to all whom the most ff careful recital may O end . Let us begin with Le du Cabaret Ciel , through whose gilded gates , radiant

- under blue tinted electric lights , visitors begin to arrive ’ in numbers at about eleven o clock and soon after. Palm

- trees , upon which ill painted clouds lean down , and

figures o f saints and angels decorate the vestibules , and

52 S OUV EN I R O F PAR I S

t o . Y o u return again healthy life are attended by mutes, and the drinks supplied are called by the names o f various o f hideous diseases . Outside the Cabaret Hell you are e gr eted by a red dev—il with horns and trident, who bids o u d d y enter and be , for Satan is calling for you . if t o o And you care g inside , Satan will be heard deliver f c o . ing a dis ourse , strange medley morality and blasphemy It is unnecessary t o give further description o f places

that have prospered for many years , largely by reason o f English and American patronage. Illu sio nist e s But the Cabarets , although they enjoy o f the greater part the foreign support , cannot compare in point o f interest with the strange little cafés in and round

the Boulevard de Clichy, favoured by the young poets . Some o f these houses are small and frowsy ; ventilation i o f leaves much to be desired , and the l nen frequenters suggests the absence from the Montmartre quarter o f a f o f really e ficient laundry , but nowhere in the whole Paris ,

as far as the writer knows, may so many strange types of f genuine o r perverted poets be seen . At some of the ca es o wn o wn the poets recite their verses and sell their poems . du o n One Of the houses (the Café Conservatoire) , the o f Boulevard de Rochechouart, is built like the interior a I church , and the altar is a bar In these places you may se e and hear the young poets o f Montmartre and the e o r company they keep , but only a Fr nchman , , to be more

correct, a Parisian, will be able to understand what they ’

sa ll . y, and the loss wi not be the foreigner s Here we may leave Montmartre with no more than assurance that the T H E M ON TM ART R E QUA RT E R 53 strange and often repellent exhibitions in which the quarter r indulges are not as bad as they seem at fi st sight. They are the expression o f a certainjo ie de vivre among people who are entirely lacking in reverence for life, death , and n eter ity, but in spite Of it all there is comparatively—little o r immorality, and there is little no drunkenness the f o o cost o the drinks is t high . CHAPTER VIII

TH E T HEATRES M SIC HA S AND CO CERT , U LL , N HALLS OF PARIS

A S P RI has every reason to be proud o f her leading theatres , and to the Englishman desiring to Obtain mastery over colloquial French they are an unfailing o f source attraction . The Parisian dramatist publishes his work far more freely than his English confrere, per haps because, as a rule, it is well worth reading, and l o f there is a demand for the iterature the theatre . To read the play carefully before going t o se e it is a great i i o f advantage, all the deta ls and ram fications the plot t o are made clear, the ear is attuned the sound of the Of a words, and the pleasure playgoing is greatly incre sed .

A visit to the leading theatre in Paris , and this , beyond all du question , is the Comédie Francaise , in the Place a The tre Francais , by the Palais Royal , is a liberal AS education . an institution the Comédie Francaise dates from the years immediately following the death o f 1 6 3 Moliere in 7 , but as a theatre the house is in parts no more than ten years old , having been badly burnt in

1 90 0 . Marble medallions of Moliere , Racine, Corneille , and Victor Hugo deck the entrance, and the house ’ o f contains a private collection Moliere s furniture, while 54 THEATRE S AND MUSIC HALLS 55 the ceilings and staircases are finely painted , and there is some remarkable tapestry o n the walls . Within the Comédie Francaise the o ld traditions o f acting are care fully preserved , tragedy and comedy thrive side by side , and in point o f elocution the actors and actresses are o f unrivalled . All the masterpieces the great French e dramatists can be se n here, and it is astonishing to find a o f how well they f ce the wear and tear time , in the safe keeping o f those who devote no small part of a lifetime to their service. After the Comédie Francaise the most important house in Paris is perhaps the Opéra, but mention has o f been made this already, and the Opéra Comique claims ’i attention . It is in the Place Bo eldieu , between the F av art o n o f Rues Marivaux and , the right the Boule i vard des Ital ens . It has been open for about eleven r o n yea s , the original house the Site having been burnt 1 8 8 down in 7 . The new one was built hurriedly and badly, but boasts some fine marble in the vesti l bu e, including a monument to Bizet . Grand foyer, saloon , and auditorium are all profusely decorated and

. l painted The house serves a very usefu purpose , for it enable s lyric dramas and op éras co miq u es to be given under ideal conditions , and at far less expense than would be demanded at the great house in the Place de ’ ra l Opé . London has nothing to take the place o f the ’ o era co mi u e p g , and the loss is felt severely, for many masterpieces, designed upon a small scale , have failed at o Covent Garden because the house is t o big for them . E 56 S OUVE N I R O F PA R I S

In view o f the fact that music tends every year to be s come more and more co mopolitan , the need for an institution in London like the Op éra comiq ue becomes more and more apparent . After turning from the opera- houses and the Comédie o f Francaise , the next theatre in order importance is the o f li Odéon, in the Place the same name. It es far away ul from the grand bo evards, across the Seine by the side o f i o n th e e o f the Luxembourg gardens , was bu lt sit the o ld H6tel de Condé shortly before the French and o f Revolution, rebuilt in the early part the nine t t e ent h century. In the pas few years the Odéon has come rapidly to th e front under the skilled direction o f - M . Antoine, the actor manager, who founded a house o l across the river in the B u evard de Strasbourg, which was built by Baron Haussmann in the reign o f the

. f third Napoleon Here M . Antoine produced some o the most remarkable thrilling dramas that Paris has i o f . seen , and acted in many them h mself Soon he drew all Paris to the rather remote house, and a few a o t a years g he lef the The tre Antoine for the Odéon , and has added modern plays to its extensive repertoire t of classical drama . Af er the Odéon comes the Gymnase ,

- o n . in the Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle , the left hand side o f d The theatres Sarah Bernhardt , Ma ame Rejane , Porte

St. Martin (where the elder Coquelin distinguished C ’i himself) , the Vaudeville, Variétés, a te, Nouveautés , a Ch telet , Ambigu , Renaissance , and Palais Royal com let e o f p the list important houses , but it is hardly

S OUVE N I R O F PA R I S The café concerts are a little lower than the music o f halls, the admixture undesirables among the audience rather more pronounced . There ar—e three in the neigh b o u rho o d o f i the Champs Elysees the Jard n de Paris , the Ambassadeurs , and the Alcazar. Others scattered Parisiana about Paris are the , the Scala, the Eldorado, the ’ - L Et o ile B a- - e Petit Casino, , the ta clan, and La P piniere .

The Olympia and Casino de Paris give masked balls . The circus is an institution more popular in France than in England , and Paris holds at least five houses in which equest rian performances are the predominant feature, though clowns and acrobats and jugglers are in evidence, and a pantomime is sometimes considered a necessary supplement to the circus shows . The Cirques in Medrano and Métropole , the Boulevard Rochechouart and Rue Duvivier respectively, the Hippodrome in the in Boulevard de Clichy, the Nouveau Cirque the Rue ’ d H iv e r St . Honoré , and the Cirque , in the street to which the sisters o f the nunnery o f Calvary give their du du name (Boulevard Filles Calvaire, between the du Boulevards Temple and Beaumarchais) , are the most important arena houses in Paris . Turning from play and music hall entertainment to concerts we find Paris well equipped , as becomes a city whose leading musicians are famous throughout the du P o isso niere world . In the Rue Faubourg the Con se rv at o ire of Music gives a fine winter series o f classical concerts , but as these are subscription concerts , there is but a small chance fo r the casual visitor t o gain THEATRES AND MUSIC HALLS 59

’ admittance . But M . Edouard Colonne s concerts at the

Chatelet, and the Concerts Lamoureux directed by the ’ - - G a e u u so n in law . v a fo nder s , M Chevillard , in the Salle , ff are as goo d as anything London can o er. The Schola ’

n . d I nd Ca torum , directed by M Vincent y, give interesting performances in the Rue St. Jacques , and there are well established concert halls in the Rue de Tournon and the Boulevard de Strasbourg, as well as a popular series a o n t o at the The tre Marigny Sunday af ern on in winter , and recitals in the halls attached to the great piano and organ houses which have something akin to a

- monopoly of chamber music . For the music loving public there are the bands of the Republican Guards and other regiments , the gardens , parks , and squares o f have music in abundance , and even some the cafés have their small string orchestra , while for sacred music sa Notre Dame , the Madeleine, and St. Sulpice, to y o f nothing many of the lesser churches , may be said to supply the very considerable demands . But whether the

o f o r - attractions sought be in the world church opera house , o r theatre , music hall , café concert , it is always advisable to refer to the programmes published in the daily papers , o f its for every class performance has time and its season , and landmarks in Paris have a strange habit o f disappear Old ing before they have found time to grow , and what is 1 91 0 1 true of a place in may be merely Old history in 1 9 1 . The clubs of Paris are nearly all o f a special kind ; o f there are few the purely social type , unless they exist as o r for a certain group , such the Royalist party the heads 60 S OUV E N I R O F PA R I S

Of the army . But all branches o f sport are represented

in the clubland of Paris . Racing by the Jockey Club in the Rue Scribe, sport generally by the Sporting Club in the Rue Caumartin , motoring by the Automobile Club in the Place de la Concorde , ballooning by the Cercle Aéronautique de France in the Rue Jcan - Jacques

Rousseau . Then there is the Aéro Club in the Faubourg

. o f St Honoré , and there are clubs representing the interests polo , yachting, touring, athletics , arts and letters, and even o f chess , while the presence the Briton in Paris is evidenced ’ by the Travellers Union , Island , and other clubs , in which l o f travel ing Englishmen foregather. There are churches t — al every denomina ion for their spiritual needs Episcop , o f Congregational , Church Scotland , Wesleyan , Baptist , ’ SO o ne ls ai many indeed , that recal Volt re s statement ” that England has eighty religions and only o ne sauce . It may be said that no form o f sport that obtains in England is overlooked in France , and the man with a spec ial liking for any kind o f outdoor exercise will find it as easy to follow in Paris as in London . It is the same n in the world of shopping. Not only can the travelli g in b e visitor find everyth g under the sun , but can also s o f sure, if his pur e be but long enough , the latest

r i - h as le de n er cri. mode, Even the tea shop sprung up of late years , though the Parisienne herself had but little use fo r it at first ; the writer remembers an excellent

- o f tea house in the Rue Cambon , which the name s s o f elude him . Moreover, under tress competition , the system o f the p rice fir e rules in all but the most

THEATRES AND MUSIC HALLS 6 1 All expensive establishments , and there the motto , spare tti money abandon ye who enter here , would be a fi ng device . Happily for the shopkeepers the excellent taste and finish o f their goods is a lure that draws the wealthy

Briton , and yet more wealthy American , irresistibly , and in a good year the profits o f the Paris shopkeeper o f the best class must be very considerable . In the poorer quarters o f Paris living is very good and very cheap ; in the more expensive and fashionable parts the relation o f

- cost to the price asked is well nigh overlooked . This if is not surprising we remember that , far more than o f London , Paris is the playground the very rich , and

r Y a . nobody arrives in Paris f om New ork , Chic go , St o r o f Petersburg , Mexico City without the fixed intention f Spending plenty o money. One might even go farther sa c o f and y, that within the charmed cir le the grand u bo levards and the Rue de Rivoli , Paris has no use for who i o f people requ re a lot change for their sovereigns . is o f o f is an d It because the cost living in fashionable Par , the extraordinary eccentricity o f amusement in places like B the oulevard de Clichy and its environs, that visitors o f go away with such erroneous ideas France . Let it be ’ as repeated , that far as the visitor s Paris is concerned , it does not stand for France at all . The money that paid the ll h as German bi forty years ago , and kept Russia in clover ’ since Nevski Prospekt and the Quai d Orsa y were united

o ne - o f f in the rather sided bonds friendship, came rom

- r hard working, thrifty, industrious France , a count y with has which Paris little to do . CHAPTER I X

TH E BOIS D E BOU LOGNE AND T H E PARKS

TH E more Often an Englishman visits Pari s and goes b e about the city by himself, the more surely he comes convinced that the Place de la Concorde is the

- proper starting place for all excursions . It seems to lead everywhere . Now we are turning beyond the limits of the city to visit the famous Bois de Boulogne , and

- — a though there are half dozen railway stations , trams , motor omnibuses , taxicabs , and even the Seine steam so boats to take us there, nothing is quite attractive o n a fine day as the leisured ramble from the Place de la Concorde along the Avenue des Champs Elysees to where the great Arc de Triomphe marks the Place de ’ I Et o ile an d t du , then to the lef along the Avenue Bois I s de Boulogne . There a shorter route along the Avenue l de la Grande Armée and the Porte Mai lot, but the other road by which the Porte Dauphine entrance is reached is a the more attractive . A still longer ro d may be taken by way o f the handsome Avenue Victor Hugo to re ach the Bois by the Porte de la Muette , all these three roads ’ - a running out o f the Place de l Etoile . Half dozen other e b u t a gates giv entry to the Bois, f shion is faithful to the Avenue du Bois de B o ulo gngand the Porte Dauphine .

BOIS DE BOULOGNE AND PARKS 63

o r l The Bois de Boulogne, the Bois , as it is genera ly ’ ll d Au t e u il o n ca ed , stretches from the Boulevard the ll t he south to Neui y, where great summer fair is held , o n o ld the north , and from the eastern fortifications to o f o ld o f the Seine . It is a part the forest Rouvray , and was presented to the municipality o f Paris half a century ago to be reclaimed and properly administered . s At an enormou cost it was turned into a public park , but even in these twentieth - century days it is a place few men would care to explore after dark . It is infested b ad was o ld by characters now as it in the bad days , and with the best intentions in the world the authorities are unable effectively to police a park o f more than two thousand acres lying beyond the limits o f the farthest boulevards . So sensible people visit the Bois in the o r d afternoon , when the morning is well aire , and refuse to play the part o f flies to the Spiders whose webs are

Spun at nightfall . Before we criticise the authorities , it is well to remember that the Bois is more than three times the size o f Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens put together, and is far less accessible. On a fine afternoon in early summer a stranger to the Bois would imagine that some event Of special significance was fixed for that day, for the favoured route to the place is almost blocked by motor cars , carriages , and bicycles . But this is the usual condition o f affairs unless there is racing o r a review of the troops at the Hippodrome a Longchamps down by the river boundary , and then the crush is greater than ever, and S O U VE N I R O F PAR I S

T every vehicle must move at a walking pace . o the a ff attr ctions O ered by the Bois there is no end . From th e Porte Dauphine yo u follow the Route de Suresnes ’ to the two lakes fed by the Canal de l Ourcq and th e

o f . famous well Passy On the Lac Inférieure, where o f e there are plenty boats to be hir d , there is a a a delightful c fé restaurant re ched by a ferry . The Racing Club o f Paris has a house and premises to the left o f the chalet across the lake ; below it is the little Theatre de la Verdure and a restaurant run by the l i f o r immortal Pail ard , and presumably ntended million ’ i l H i o dro m a res . Below this the Avenue de pp e ru ns from th e Carrefour des Cascades to the racecourse , and from the Carrefour de Longchamps by the Route de Sevres there are some Splendid views over the Seine an d the ll surrounding country . Beyond the Vi a de Longchamp is the Polo ground . The way to the north of the park lies by two little islands in the Seine (the Ile du Puteaux and th e much smaller Ile de la Folie) and the a o f Ch teau de Bagatelle , built in the time Marie 1 8 90 Antoinette, and , until , the property of Sir Richard

Wallace, whose widow gave the Hertford House col lection t o London. The Boulevard Richard Wallace a records the ownership, though the park and ch teau were purchased by the Paris municipality some years ” “ o r i c ago for the bagatelle o f six seven m llion fran s . From the Boulevard Richard Wallace there are o ne or two roads to o ne of the most interesting places in Bois , ’ ” d A clim at at io n the famous Jardin c , which , by the

BOIS DE BOULOGNE AND PARKS 6 5

way, can be reached quite readily from the Porte D e auphine, without the long detour which has be n o made to cover other points f interest. ’ The fifty acres o f the Jardin d Acclim at atio n were taken over by an enterprising company in the early ’ fif t ie s o f the last century to introduce into and to ac cli n matise in France foreign plants and a imals . It is open to the public every day , and the franc charged fo r adm ission is reduced by half o n Sundays and public holidays , while little children may enter without charge . a The small r ilway line that runs through the Bois , and may be recommended to those who wish to pass readily t o from point point , has a station in the garden at either i end , and a modest tram pl es between the garden and the

Porte Dauphine and Maillot. The garden is surrounded by a fine broad walk , and has a Splendid palmarium, in which a band plays twice a week if the weather is not t o favourable a performance outside. There is also a

- a well man ged but distinctly expensive restaurant. The n re s big buildi g, which includes the palmarium and taurant , and holds the miniature stage upon which plays

are performed twice a week , is the Winter Garden Palace . Small animals are kept in a viva riu m in the Winter t is i Garden , and here a winter ng house for the monkeys , whose delicate lungs cannot endure the rigour o f the ” ad open air. They have a Par ise in the open for

summer use . A very fine collection of all the best

- known wading birds may be watched with amusement . is an e a There laborate phe santry, and a remarkable 66 S O UV E N I R O F P AR I S

l m co lection of deer and antelopes , wild goats , and lla as. At the far end o f the gardens are the stables and i o f d outbu ldings beloved the chil ren , for here they ’ may hire the strangest representative o f the garden s d fauna for short rides . Camels , romedaries , ostriches , llamas , and the rest are at their service. In fact the gardens are full o f all animals save t he wild and in car nivores o f tractable , and the lover dogs will not fail to examine the collection o f thoroughbred animals that o o f is the pride f the place . The breeding every creature in the gardens is regulated with the idea o f keeping i the standard as high as possible . Indeed , the Jard n ’ d Acclim at atio n is worth the cost attendant upon an extended visit ; and this is no small praise when we i consider the prices . Not as large as the Jard n des

Plantes , and far more exclusive , the beautiful Jardin in the Bois is a playground o f the leisured classes ; the r o n gene al public favours the place Sundays and holidays , when prices are reduced . It will be seen that the

Bois de Boulogne is an expensive place , and would be hard put to it to thrive in the neighbourhood o f any

European capital other than Paris , which has a constant influx o f visitors to whom money is o f little o r no con cern . But it has some popular restaurants for the people . It is a far cry from the Bois de Boulogne to Le P ére

Lachaise , but after all in life the changes are often as abrupt . So , choosing a—gain that useful Place de la Concorde for a starting place, let us follow the Rue

6 8 S O UVE N I R O F PA R I S

se t raised . But a few names may be down at random

Auber, Balzac , Beaumarchais, Bizet , Régis de Camba ceres

Cherubini , Auguste Comte , Corot, Daumier, Eugene n Delacroix , Marshal Grouchy, Hahneman , founder o f oe hom opathy, Ingres , La Fontaine, Lavoisier, Marshal MacD o nald D ue , Moliere , the de Morny, Gérard de Nerval , W ale ws Léon Say, Scribe , Talma, Thiers , and ki. A o f u granite pyramid , with bronze statues fo r soldiers , is erected to the memory o f the soldiers who fell at the siege o f - Paris in the Franco German war. There is another ’i fine monument to Abelard and Helo se . Although some o f the most distinguished French ais men and women sleep in Le Pere Lach e , it is not reserved for the distinguished dead , even though it be o f o d beyond the reach the undistinguished p or. Anybo y wh o can pay at least £40 may buy a freehold o f t wo f o f e square metres , but the of ensive custom leas hold o concessions als Obtains , and a temporary concession may be purchased for a couple o f pounds . In return for this the dead is allo wed t o remain undisturbed for five

’ years and the coffin may then be removed . A thirty ’ as o years concession costs six times much . There is s me thing indecent about this system from the standpoint o f

most thoughtful people , but the fact remains that many

Parisians buy temporary concessions , while the crema

t o rium e is not generally used , cremation b ing slow in its

appeal to the multitude . Before leaving the cemeteries alone it is worth mentioning that the northern o ne is in s Mo ntmartre and the southern one is at Montparnas e. BOIS DE BOULOGNE AND PARKS 6 9

The cemetery o f Montmartre is reached best by way o f i o ut the Boulevard de Clichy. Th s too is laid in long n o f l and often rambli g avenues , and hides many the i lus — ff t rio u s dead Heine and Berlioz and O enbach , Ernest ’ R énan Vie de Jesus , who wrote the wonderful , and ‘ Mu r e r S cenes de la Vie de B ohe me Henri g , who wrote ,

Delaroche , Ambroise Thomas , Dr. Charcot and Carlotta s Patti , Waldeck , Rousseau and Cavaignac , Franci que Z Sarcey and Emile ola . Here , as at Le Pere Lachaise r o f and Montpa nasse , the master hand Rodin may be seen among the monuments . a Montp rnasse cemetery, reached by the Boulevard h as e Theo Edouard Quinet, in its ke ping the remains of

l - dore de Banvi le and Fantin Latour, Baudelaire , whose o f monument is crowned by the Genius Evil , César

li di - Franck , with medal on by Ro n , Sainte Beuve, and a o f few other great artists and poets , writers the nineteenth

- o ne century, but for the most of pleasure seeking visitors

visit to a cemetery is enough , and Le Pere Lachaise is a ffi O su ciently stately monument to the dead . n certain t o f Al l days, hose All Saints and Souls , the pious make

pilgrimage to the cemeteries , but this practice is not

peculiar to France, and is merely followed in accordance

with the custom of the Roman Catholic Church . The direct route to the Montmartre and Montparn asse se t o u t cemeteries not having been , the visitor may be presumed to be still in the immediate neighbourhood o f t Le Pere Lachaise , and af er the gloom inseparable from ad the home of the de , it becomes a pleasant change to seek 70 S O U VE N I R O F P A R I S

o ne o f the open places that exist for the greater happiness

o f . o f the living Such a place is near at hand , by way ' Ru e B o liv ar the Boulevard and Rue de Belleville and the .

It is known as the Buttes Chaumont , and covers some

- sixty acres , and is very popular with the working classes, who practically monopolise the Belleville quarter . A lake ,

a waterfall , a miniature temple, and a suspension bridge f o r notorious suicides that have taken place here , are the most noticeable features of the park ; a military band plays

- twice a week , and there are cafe restaurants . While in the neighbourhood it is advisable t o pay a o f visit to the cattle market La Villette , which can be reached by way o f the Rue Manin and the Boulevards S e ru rie r a D n ald and M c o . One must go early to se e the

animals sold in three vast pavilions , the first given to oxen , the second to pigs and calves , and the third to sheep . ’ Beyond the Canal de l Ou rcq are the abattoirs where the l animals are ki led . They cover almost as great an area as the market , nearly fifty acres , and the conditions under which the horrible work is carried o n are far better than those to be found in this country , all the arrangements being devised in accordance with the dictates o f humanity

and sanitary science . There is a curious contrast between the unspeakable private slaughter- houses that defile the w English streets and the stately buildings in Paris , ith sculptured groups o f cattle and sheep at the main

entrance . There are other abattoirs in the Montparnasse

quarter and perhaps elsewhere , but those of La Villette

are the largest and most important .

7 2 S O UV EN IR O F P A R IS

P are . n l in the Monceau A small lake , a ti y waterfa l , add ’ to the park s attractions , and it is a delightful retreat from ’ o f o n the heat and noise the streets a hot summer s day.

Coming back to the Place de la Concorde , it would o f a be well to see something the Elysee. The Gr nd

' Palais and the Petit Palais are o n the right as we l approach the Place ; the Avenue A exandre III . separates o f them and runs up to the bridge the same name .

o f - This bridge , by the way, which the foundation stone 1 8 96 o f was laid by Czar Nicholas in , is the best all that t span the Seine , and is a s eel arch about three hundred ft and fi y feet long , and very wide in proportion . There is much statuary , some more remarkable for its good n o f i tention than its accomplishment , and the Arms Paris o ne o n and St. Petersburg are in evidence, each side o f the bridge . The Grand Palais is reached before the

Avenue Alexandre III . , and the facade has a rather r imposing double colonnade, with a f ieze in glass mosaic T o behind . the Grand Palais all Paris gathers to see the latest improvements in horse flesh , m—otor cars , agri cultural implements , cycles , and pictures nothing comes t o amiss to the Grand Palais . Before proceeding the Petit Palais it is well to cross the Champs Elysees into al o f the Avenue de Marigny, where the p ace the President o f the Republic stands in its o wn well - kept garden . The house that formerly occupied the site has o r been altered o ut o f rec ognition . Among the famous notorious occupants may be mentioned Madame de d Pompa our, Murat, Napoleon Bonaparte, and Napoleon

74 S O UV E N I R O F P A R I S

i insi nificance it is at least l ttle removed from g , and would be be tter in the private houses o f people who are not particular. Before leaving the neighbourhood it would be well to turn back along the Cours de la Reine t o the S modern chapel of Notre Dame de Consolation, ometimes ’ l l E lis du r r ca led g e Bazar de la Charité . Thi teen yea s have passed since there was a fire at a charity bazaar o n that spot (Ru e Jean Goujon) and some hundred and o f thirty people perished , and in memory it the chapel has been built. It holds a monument to the Duchesse ’ d Al e n o n c , and is open nearly every afternoon . Even in happy, thoughtless Paris the memory of this appalling catastrophe is still vivid . The next parks to be visited are those o f the

Trocadero and La Muette . They are near each other, and can be reached from the Place de la Concorde by o f so way the Quai de la Conference, called from the city gate through which the Spanish envoys came to o treat with Mazarin for the marriage f Louis XIV . with ’ r d Orsa the Infanta Maria Te esa . It faces the Quai y, ’ and where it ends the way lies by the Place de l Alm a

- and the Avenue de Trocadero . The vast crescent shaped Palace o f the Trocadero (1 8 6 7) holds museums of sculp sa lle des les ture and ethnography, and a great fi , with what is probably the largest organ in Paris and acco m 0 0 o ne o f m o dat io n for an audience o f 6 0 . Galleries and the towers give splendid views over Paris . The statuary in and outside the Palace is very striking, and the park t o slo pes down o the river, spanned here by the P nt BOIS DE BOULOGNE AND PARKS 75 d’Alm a. The ethnographical museum in the Palace is of the highest interest, and is worth a prolonged visit. The museum o f comparative sculpture will probably make less appeal to the average visitor . For reasons hard to explain the Trocadero does not attract as many o f i visitors as some places smaller nterest, though it has a Métro station close by and a good service o f trains . s Close by is the mall Passy cemetery, with a few monu ments worth seeing. o f du The Park La Muette , reached from the Place i Trocadero by the Avenue Henri Martin , was once publ c , but is now owned privately , and may not be visited . It was originally attached to one o f the hunting- boxes o f Louis XV XVI XIV . , and has been occupied by Louis . and

du . and Madame Barry Close by, a small grass plot r keeps the name and ma ks the site of the Old Ranelagh , built by Marie Antoinette . The only other park o f any note left to be mentioned o f Mo nt so uris is that , a small ground of about forty acres , f so in the extreme south o Paris . It lies far from the centre o f the city that it is most conveniently reached by ’ rail ; the Porte d Orleans Station o f the fourth branch o f the Metropolitan railway takes the visitor within easy distance of it , along the Boulevard Jourdan , and the Sceaux Ceinture line runs right through it from the Boulevard

St. Jacques . There is a fine observatory in the park , a o f reproduction the Palace of the Bey of Tunis . From the o ne se e hill can far over Paris, and scattered through the park there are some attractive groups in marble and bronze . 76 S O UV E N I R O F PAR I S

c s a A lake , a a cade, a pavilion , and the occ sional devotion

O a f military band , help to make up the attractions o f o ntso uris so will M , and those who venture far do well to visit the vast reservoirs o f Vanne in the immediate t o neighbourhood , reservoirs that do their best supply ’ o f - the city s deficiencies in the matter a water supply. Though when Mo ntso u ris is left behind there are no to o f s more parks explore, there are plenty plea ant squares o ld and gardens attached to buildings , but it is not necessary to name them , for they have no more than a merely local interest .

CHAPTER X

GREAT BUILDINGS OFF T H E MAIN ROUTES

o f d N the brief review Paris it has happene , as might two o r l have been expected , that three great bui dings o f e o u o f note have b en left t . Either because their size o r l o ff and importance, because they lie a ittle the beaten o f se t ur fo r who track , chosen p pose those visit the t o o capital for the first time, it has seemed better gr up them in a chapter by themselves . t First and foremost comes the Bibliotheque Na ionale, K ’ formerly known as The ing s Library, and occupying o f the Palace Cardinal Mazarin , together with extensive ll o f additions, dating from years fo owing the death the o f o f sagacious Minister Louis XIV . It is course close to the Place de la Concorde . It is reached from there by o f t he way the Rue de Rivoli , Palais Royal , and the Rue o r k des Petits Champs , directly by wal ing from the Palais o f Royal to the Rue Richelieu . The library is great age ;

o f . its beginnings go back to the time St Louis , and it first assumed large proportions in the beginning o f the six

t ee nth . o f century, when Louis XII added to it some the best European collections . Francis I . moved the t o library Fontainebleau , but it did not stay there adde d s le ndid to long, and Louis XIV . p collections what n S OUV E N I R O F PAR I S

o ne o f was already the best known libraries in Europe . At present the collection numbers over three million o f volumes , and is not only the pride France, but a honeycomb o n which the scholarship o f all th—e civilised world may feed . Divided into four departments Printed Books an—d Maps , Manuscripts , Engravings , Medals and Antiques the lines o n which it is run in the interests o f the general public are such as rule at the British Bib lo the u e Museum in London . The q Nationale stands in a square formed by the Rue des Petits Champs,

Rue Vivienne , Rue Colbert , and Rue de Richelieu , the chief entrance in the street last named , and it is to be feared that it is all too often overlooked . It would be impossible to hint at the treasures that await the student ’ d E x o sitio n e t in the Salles p , des Imprimes des Manu scrit s e t , in the Cabinet des Médailles Antiques , in the l Sa les de Luynes, de la Renaissance , and des Donateurs . No nl useful purpose is served by a very brief visit, which o y o f reveals the outstanding works art , the fine tapestries and ornaments o f a building that contains the treasures of the accumulated genius of generations . But to those who have the leisure and the inclination to enjoy what is al housed there , the Bibliotheque Nationale must ways o o f remain o ne f the great treasure houses Paris . The wealth and worth of the institution tend ever to increase , for great collecto rs who have given their life to their labours are pleased to think that their collection will not be dispersed under any ordinary conditions , and con sequently bequests to the Bibliotheque are likely to

S O UVE N I R O F PA R I S

. e n occupied formerly for twenty years by Mme de S vig e . It is approached by the Rue des F rancs~ B o u rge o is by way

o f o ld - u a garden , with an sixth cent ry gateway brought I Cite t o from the le de la , and the rooms contain an epi me o f the last eighteenth and complete nineteenth - century n history of Paris, together with countless interesti g R ev o lu i relics o f earlier days . The Galerie de la t o n is u of extraordinary interest , and can occupy many an ho r. was There are more than twenty rooms, and the place

never intended for the breathless tourist . A consider able volume might fail to tell the story o f what the a av al Musée C m e t has in its keeping. Perhaps the Special attraction of the Paris museums is the admirable o f fashion of their management, the delightful choice Site l l and bui ding, the system Of labe ling that saves endless

- ad reference to guide books , and the dition to the rooms

wherever possible o f choice furniture and decorations . Another collection that is not often seen by visitors t o Paris , though it is of the greatest interest to the e t Specialist , is the Conservatoire des Arts Metiers , just outside the right - hand boundary o f the pentagon o f grand boulevards and other famous streets described i in an earlier chapter. Like the National Arch ves , Cam av ale t Mont de Piete, and Musée , it is very easily

reached from the Place de la Concorde , and is also

served by o ne o f the stations of the Metropolitan line. From the Place o ne goes along the Rue de Rivoli to the Boulevard de Sebastopol and turns to the right along the

Rue Reaumur. BUILDINGS OFF MAIN ROUTES 8 1

The square holding the Conservatoire des Arts e t

Metiers is best known to the casual visitor to Paris ,

because the Theatre de la G aite is o n o ne Side o f it . Few know that the Conservatoire occupies the renovated

o f . Priory St Martin des Champs, founded some years before Norman William and Saxon Harold met o n the o f F o r plains Senlac . more than seven hundred years the priory occupied the buildings until Paris had grown all round them , and then came the Revolution , and the days o f Vau cau so n the religious house were numbered . , the t n f o r engineer, had lef his worki g materials to the State the

o f - benefit the working classes , and the Convention founded o ld the Conservatoire by decree , and housed it in the priory . The o ld church and its Gothic refectory remain ; before ’ the facad e o f the former is D alo u s monument to a great Y o u chemist and agriculturist, Boussingault. enter the

Conservatoire by the Rue St . Martin , and in the Cour ’ d H o nne u r the old thirteenth - century refectory o f the priory

- may be seen to advantage . It is used to day to house

o ne . o f the library , a very considerable At the end the ’ d H o nne u r o f Cour is the museum , in which machinery every kind is exhibited . Nearly every exhibit be ing o f r labelled and dated , the story modern prog ess is very

d. o f fairly indicate All the machinery mining, railway o f engines , bridges, locks , the building trade , of agriculture, o f i hyg ene , textile work, chemistry , spinning and weaving, n o ne t heati g and ventilation , may be examined ; regrets o say that the o ld twelfth - century church is filled with machinery . To all who have the mechanical mind , to 8 2 S O UVE N I R O F P AR I S

all who have any faculty fo r handling machinery o r im it t ff proving , the Conservatoire des Arts e Metiers o ers a o f vast field for the study methods ancient and modern ,

and in connection with it there is a technical school , to d which a mission is free, though competitive . The course lasts for three years . The modern Parisian may be heard to declare , doubtless with some justification , that the pre sent Conservatoire has done more fo r Paris in o ne century ’ o f than St . Martin s Priory did in seven , but in Spite this , the technical library in the refectory and the gr a nde sa lle des machines t - fine in the twelf h century church , with its o ld choir and apse , strike a note that jars . Within the limits o f time at the disposal o f many visitors t o Paris the most interesting places above ground have now wh o been mentioned , but for those do not mind a little subterranean exploring, the Sewers and Catacombs remain . o f n o t The last named are in the extreme south the city , o f far from the Park Mont Souris , and may be reached by rail ; they are subterranean quarries , dating back from ’ ae o f l o f C sar s invasion Gau . Towards the end the

eighteenth century, a few years before the Revolution , the necessity for underpinn ing many streets in the southern part o f Paris caused the authorities to close and empty o f th e o f e several cemeteries , and the bodies—th dead were removed t o the quarries by the million literally by the M le million. To visit the Catacombs the permission of . f Directeur des Travaux , whose of icial residence is the H Ot el de Ville, must be first obtained , and about two days

in each month are set aside for visitors . Even in the

8 4 S OU VE N I R O F P A R I S brought to an end ; but as few visitors t o the French capital fail t o make o ne o r t wo excursions t o places of historic interest , to St . Cloud and Sevres , Fontainebleau l o f ll and Versai les, and the chateau and forest Chanti y, it seems advisable to deal briefly with these places in order to indicate the best way o f seeing them and their special ’

U . claim pon the Parisian s regard They, together with a o f few other places less significance, stand in the same relations to Paris as Hampstead Heath , Richmond

Park , Hampton Court , Sandown Park , and the Crystal so o f Palace to London, and have entered far into the life the average Frenchman o f leisure and the visitors to the capital , that they may not fairly be neglected .

8 6 S OUV E N I R O F PAR I S

older building stands upon the site o f o ne still older ; the first castle o f Chantilly belonged to the Senlis family for

half a thousand years, and was destroyed in the fourteenth

century . The history o f France in some o f its strangest aspects would be see n very clearly if the story o f all the buildings o n the site could be se t down without fear o r ’ . o f d O r e m o nt favour Thereafter the families g , Mont

morency, and Condé held rule in turn at Chantilly, and those who care to turn to the more intimate pages o f French history will se e how striking were the social glories o f the castle under Louis XIV . The Porte de la Herse gives entrance to the wonderful Chateau midway between the Chapel and Constable towers , and leads along the Court of Honour to the Peristyle and the Grand Stair

- case . Through the dining room , with great tapestries , the P o ld icture Gallery is reached , and here are works by and

modern masters , Meissonier and Delacroix , Titian and a Nicholas Poussin , Palma Vecchio and Rembr ndt , Raphael o f and Filippino Lippi . Vast collections drawings and

engravings , miniatures , weapons , and jewels may be ex in d am e . The Musée is a splendid tribute to the taste

ld- o f o time collectors , and the library, with some rare

manuscripts , is said to be worthy the building in which

. it is housed , though of this the writer has no knowledge The Renaissance Chapel with its sixteenth - century wood o f work and the mausoleum of Henry II . Condé should

be visited . The Park was laid o ut nearly three hundred years ago

- o e , by Le N tre , and holds the famous littl hunting lodge B E Y ON D PA R I S 8 7

m o f the Maison de Silvie , round which a char ing legend a fugitive poet and a kindly duchess of the early seven C a t e e nth century is woven . There are other h teaux in d the Park , to which admission is not grante . Those who have the time to Spare aft er exploring the public portion o f the Park o f Chantilly should drive through the forest to the Carrefour de la Table, where twelve roads meet , o f d can then proceed by way the ornamental waters, o f known as the Etang de Comelle, to the forest Coye , o r follow the old road from the Carrefour to the forest o f

Pontarme . All who spend more than a day in Chantilly, no t o f l o ut and are afraid wa king, should tramp over o f a good road to Senlis , home the first Merovingian

kings , and long the headquarters of a bishopric , a quaint old town with fine Gothic cathedral and the remains o f o f o ne two other Gothic churches , which the serves for

- a market and the other for a riding school . A Roman a amphitheatre , one or two palaces he vy with the burden o f n history, and many ancient rui s are among the attrae o f w tions a to n , whose chief street , the Rue de la l République , has some very comfortable hote s . Unless the treasures o f the capital have produced something akin

to mental surfeit , the visit to Chantilly and Senlis will

provide plenty of fresh emotions , and in order to enjoy them to the full the traveller will be well advised to

c - hoose a time when there is no race meeting at Chantilly. The racing crowd is not t o o savoury in any part o f sa f Europe , though it is only fair to y that many o the abuses o f the British racecourse are reduced to a G S OUVE N I R O F PAR I S

ri minimum in France, largely by reason of the p a mntnel system that regulates betting.

Fontainebleau , being nearly forty miles from Paris , is not to be visited comfortably in a day, save by the fortunate few who can command the service o f a go od motor car, and even then the place is worth a longer

. sojourn By train , the station is the Gare de Lyon , o n the Boulevard Diderot, and the journey takes about o an hour and a half, often more , than less, by way f

Villeneuve St . George and Melun , this last named ’ M e lo du nn m o f ae being the C sar s campaign . The train travels through a part of the forest o f Fontainebleau to reach the town , which is very attractive, well laid o u t le ntiq , and p y supplied with hotels and restaurants , whose managers have no use for people who come with

- o ill lined p ckets . Fontainebleau has always been popular ' m an o f with Parisians , y whom have summer villas there , and the increased facilities that the motor car yields o f are responsible for the influx wealthy visitors , for whom Fontainebleau provides a pleasant resting - place for lunch o f or dinner. But for those to whom the attractions — ’ the forest are irresi—stible and Fontainebleau s forest is the pride o f France it is possible to find cheap aecom d tio n o r m o a beyond the area of the pretentious hotels , o f o ne o ne may go to Barbizon , the Mecca at least school o r of artists , to Marlotte , Bourron , Moret , all within l the forest boundaries , and find smal clean hotels in which it is possible to live cheaply and well . A bicycle is o f great advantage if a long stay is to be made . The

B E YON D PAR I S 8 9

o f o f chief attraction the town is , course, the famous

- Palace, standing upon the site of a twelfth century f I a o . ch teau . It was built in the time Francis , and was enlarged considerably during the seventeenth century .

The Great Napoleon loved the vast low rambling building, and it was here that the decree of divorce against the

1 8 0 9 . Empress Josephine w—as signed in Here , too , was Louis XIII . born the wonderful birth chamber is

still to be seen here his successor, Louis XIV. , revoked o f o f the Edict Nantes . The rooms the great Napoleon can be seen as they were when he occupied them, ante

- - chamber , work rooms and study , bath room and bed room , with the original paintings and furniture . Council Chamber and Throne Room lead to the apartments o f the unfortunate Marie Antoinette , with their exquisite o f furniture and tapestries , to the rooms Madame de o f Maintenon , the rooms the Queen Mothers , and in N later years of the imprisoned Pope Pius VII . othing l is gained by any detai ed description , for there are guides f t o in plenty , and it is su ficient indicate the chief fea tures of note in the Palace , merely remarking that the

list is by no means complete . The Chinese Museum Of by the Cour de la Fontaine is modern times , but is o u extremely interesting, even though it be a little t of

place here . Nothing could be more delightful than the Palace

gardens , a welcome change to the almost exhausting

- wealth of the building itself. Here are the well known carp

ponds , in which the fish are said to escape the attention 90 S OUV E N I R O F PARI S o f Father Time and to live for ever ; here is the famous labyrinth , and here are the historic grape vines that challenge comparison with those of Hampton Court . There is an English garden laid o ut by Napoleon I and a Louis XIV. garden , designed by the famous Le o o f N tre , with many sculptured figures rare beauty. In u short , the gardens Of Fontainebleau are as delightf l in their exquisitely artificial fashion as the beautiful l t o forest itse f, and no visitor Paris with a little leisure t o command should fail to visit the prosperous town se t s in which they are , while tho e whose time is their o wn must go still farther and se e the country that in

- days past has inspired Jean Francois Millet , Charles

o f . Sisley, and other artists renown Until the forest o ne o f Fontainebleau has been visited , must be content with a very incomplete idea of the beauty o f the French

woodlands . o f l By the side Chantilly and Fontainebleau , Versai les

is a giant among pigmies . It is more easily reached , being about three hours’ walking distance from the Place o ne de la Concorde. Versailles is served by three lines , t starting from the Gare St . Lazare and covering fif een

m iles o n the journey, while the other two , from the re s e c Gare Montparnasse and the Gare des Invalides , p

tiv e ly find shorter roads o f eleven miles . Of all the rail e le ct ri routes the Ligne des Invalides Versailles , with its o n fie d lines and refreshment bar the train , is the best ,

l - an and covers the road in the shortest time , about ha f r ate hour . The Gare des Invalides is nea the great H l

B EY ON D PAR I S 91

o f . des Invalides, which holds the tomb Napoleon I Those who do not wish to walk o r go by train can take o ne o f the trams that start at short intervals from the Quai du Louvre and get to Versailles in an hour and l o r a ha f, find a seat in company with many tourists , o n o ne o f of American extraction for the most part , the “ ” motor comets o r chars - a- banc that g o o ut daily to

Versailles through the season . Perhaps the railway route from the Montparnasse Station will appeal to many travellers , because it goes through the very Old town i o n o f of Sevres , wh ch must be visited if only account its historic porcelain factory. l o f e Versail es is a town some importanc , even in these so r h as days when its vast palace , in which much histo y

o . been made , is reduced to the limits f a national museum

o f o f n - e t - Capital the department Sei e Oise , it holds

o f - a population people, well planned thorough i a o f fares , stately bu ldings , wealth public monuments , t o f and a his ory that every student France must study, though it only began when the seventeenth century was t o in its last years , and seemed come to an end about i th rty years ago, since when nothing but the increasing and welcome inroads of legions of tourists have stirred its deep content . Here an unhappy France was ruled in turn by Mesdames de Maintenon , de Pompadour, and

- D . 1 78 9 ubarry Here in the States General met . Here the National Assembly and the Constitutional Assembly were born . Here the mob invaded the Pala ce and compelled Louis XVI . to return to the Tuileries. Here 92 S O UVE N I R O F PAR I S

o f the victorious William I . Prussia established his headquarters before the Siege Of Paris, here he was o f proclaimed Emperor Germany. From here Marshal MacMah o n and General de Gallifet stamped o u t the o f o ld dreaded Commune remorselessly, and if any echo ll is time authority may sti be heard, it only when the Chamber of Deputies holds the senators and deputies o f the Republic who meet to elect their President . Doubt less if there should be a change in the constitution o f the country some o f the pristine glory o f Versailles will o f be restored , for it remains in spite change a fit place o f for kings and emperors . The whim a great king called the town to life, and France has not yet exhausted her history o r the surprises with which She was wont t o startle a nervous Europe in the days when her power was

at its height . W hen Louis XIV . came to Versailles for the first time he found nothing better than a small hunting- box

o f . at brick and stone, built for his predecessor The tractions of the place proved irresistible ; the king

a o f . deserted his Ch teau St Germain, some fifteen miles

away , in which he was born, and which , restored on the o f original lines , is now a Museum Antiquities , and set about the giant task o f turning Versailles into a ho me

for himself and his Court . First L e v au and then Mansart were the architects o n o f the great palace, that completion could house ten d thousand people, and stands to ay beyond all range o o f brief description . The place from the beginning c st

B E YON D PAR I S 93

ll o ut more than twenty mi ion pounds to build and lay , u 1 8 3 3 and between the Revol tion and the year , when li Louis Phi ppe turned it into a National Museum , was n something in the nature o f a white elephant . Nothi g more than the briefest mention is possible here , for the simple reason that a palace costing as m—uch in time and in money , and covering as much ground the longest 65 0 facade is nearly yards lo—ng, and has between three an d b four hundred windows demands a ook , not a

t . paragraph , and here are books in plenty for the curious The ground floor o f the main building held the rooms o n Of the Dauphin , and the first floor are the spacious o f o ld u apartments the king and queen . The f rniture

and appointments remain in many rooms . On the ground o floor , s uth wing, are countless small rooms and the o f o n hall the Deputies ; the north wing are the chapel ,

- more rooms , and a small Opera house . Days may be o f spent in the Palace , which , in spite all that has passed li since the rather incongruous pavi ons were added , is the most remarkable record o f the monarchy that France

possesses . The State Rooms and Private Apartments are said to rank among the finest in Europe , and they

are distinct from the Musée Historique, established by L U IS i O Phil ppe . Thanks t o this wise arrangement n nothi g jars , for those who feel that the modern o lla p odrida is not quite to their taste can rest content o f with the State and Private Rooms Louis XIV . and t those who came af er him to misrule France, and will find that unless they have a great deal o f time o n their 94 S O UVE N I R O F PAR I S l hands , that they will be fu ly occupied . Even when to they have seen all they care see in the Palace , the Gardens and the Trianons (the villas of Mesdames de

, , ) Maintenon de , Pompadour and Dubarry must be visited before the chief attractions o f Versailles have been exhausted . The Gardens o f Versa illes reflect in strangest fashion the Spirit o f the age in which they were designed and

o ut . o f laid From the latter days Louis XIV. down o f to the time the Revolution , Court life was as formal and artificial as the wit o r stupidity o f man cou ld make t o it , and the gardens bear the same relation Nature that a Dresden China shepherdess bears to the lawful o f guardian a Southdown flock . They have attempted t o to o f subdue Nature the whim man . But whether o r it is that history has sanctified these retreats , that, fo r ff all the formalities and sti ness , they are in harmony i o f w th the Palace which they are a part , the fact remains that they have a strange fascination o f their o wn i o n o ne o n , even wh le they repel hand they attract wh o w a the other. Age, and even pity for some kne e ch pleasaunce more intimately than we may hope to , lend

as - an added interest, and it is well nigh impossible for Old trees to look other than beautiful—and the Versailles trees are very old - the grounds will always retain a

and o . charm , however fashions mo ds may change They ill t o would be live with , but are pleasant to visit

and to reflect in . b e St atuary is still t o seen in all directions , though

96 S O UVE N I R O F P AR I S

o f visitors is not at the full, that the place can be best f o r enjoyed , then the trees are blossoming or changing

colour. We have not finished with Versailles when the

Palace and Gardens have been visited . The Grand

Trianon and Petit Trianon must not be overlooked , and may be reached readily enough by way of the Avenue t o i de Trianon , which is be entered close by the Bass n o r r de Neptune from the Boulevard de la Reine . G and Trianon was built for Madame de Maintenon by Louis

XIV . , who purchased the little village that stood upon o f the site house and grounds . Petit Trianon rose t o f XV t o nearly a century later, the gif Louis . the

Dubarry. As the name would imply, the first named is the most important building, and all but a group o f private apartments , known as Trianon sous Bois , are open to inspection . The paintings by Boucher, Le L o o Brun , and Van are among the special treasures o f a place that in its great days was the scene o f enter t ainm e nt s o f rare and costly magnificence . The Gardens of Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon meet ; they are full o f statuary, fountains , rockeries, trim lawns , shady trees , o f and the sound falling water ; and the Petit Trianon , o f o u t with its quaint Temple Love , was laid in

English fashion by order o f Marie Antoinette. Close by are a few rustic cottages round a little lake. Here the great ladies o f the Court played at living the country life in the last few years before the tocsin of Revolution was t o sounded in Paris , when dawn at hand strike the B EYON D PAR I S 97

l loud feast dumb . They had but a ittle time in which to indulge in their last caprice. This bare account o f Versailles and its treasures must suffice for o u r limited space ; no attempt can be made here to express the subtle charm that still lingers round wo n l . pa ace , gardens , and villas It must be wooed and by those who have the time and have steeped themselves

in the history Of the eighteenth century . We must leave Versailles for Sevres o n the way o n back to Paris ; it lies midway the road home , and , if

we were going from Paris , could be reached pleasantly enough in an hour o r m ore by steam- boat along the o r Seine, by the tram that connects the capital with t o f Versailles . Apar from the charm this small old o f town , there are two places special interest, the old H Ot e l Palace that has been turned into the de Ville ,

and the historic Porcelain Factory, that has been estab lish e d in Sevres for more than o ne hundred and fif ty o f years . Some the finest hard porcelain that came from the factory in the eighteenth century is associated in its colouring with the Marquise de Pompadour and Madame D ubarry , who took great interest in the work that was

then beginning, after a hard struggle , to compete with the o f china from Dresden , and gave their names to some the o f n loveliest tints . A statue Ber ard Palissy stands in front o f of the chief building , and the factory holds specimens ~ pottery belonging to many times and countries . This col so i lection, interest ng and valuable , is open to the public , and o f o f a a brief inspection some the workshops may be m de . S OUVE N I R O F PAR I S Those who have the leisure may visit the Bois de o r Meudon the Park of St . Cloud from Sevres , which lies between them . From the first named Paris may be seen to great advantage from the terrace o f the o ld a ch teau that is now an observatory ; while St . Cloud is n and most attractive in late spri g early autumn , when the e o f - f tes are in progress , and draw crowds pleasure seekers from Paris to join in the fun . There are other places in the environs o f Paris t o i o f l d wh ch the attention the visitor might wel be directe , for if o ne is to realise the strength and magnificence o f the ugly feudal system that exalted the rich and o abased the po r, it is necessary to go a little way a o f farther than the capital , in which the l st remnants old time have been co ncealed from rec ogn ition under a strict Republican regime . But to extend the excursions o f li farther would be beyond the scope this ttle work , which is primarily concerned with Paris , and has only overstepped its bo undaries t o the places that in a certain sense complete the legitimate survey o f the capital .

Down to the Revolution , Versailles and Fontainebleau l o f a played their part in the ife the gre t city, to which a no t they were then less re dily accessible , and they must be forgotten now .

The preceding pages const itute an endeavour to present the most Outstanding attraction o f a city that is admitted by the o ld world and the ne w to be the and o f most fascinating in either, is the Mecca modern

I N D E X

B B EY o f St. Ge r a 2 0 f T 8 A m in , Carre our de la able, 7 A a em 2 4 a T 8 2 8 3 c d ie de Médecine, Cat combs , he , , Arc d Trio m h e d a 1 1 o f 2 9 32 33 e p e C rrousel , Cathedral Notre Dame, , , , ’ Arc de Triomphe de I Eto ile ; 1 0 34 ’ A o f S 1 1 l Union A 3 rch everus, Cercle de rtistiq ue , 7 A 73 8 5 utomobile Club, Chantilly, A E e 1 0 a a a ll 64 venue des Champs lys es, Ch teau de B g te e , ’ A d l talie 2 7 venue , Chemin de Fer de Grande Ceinture , ’ A l O era 3 45 venue de p , 7 de 45 Chemin Fer de Petite Ceinture, ’ B S I I C o f a H 48 f o 1 o . 34 A L A the S cred eart, Church St L uis en e, i T 1 5 1 M M 40 6 o f . Bast lle , he , , Church St ary agdalen ,

e 77 78 u o f . o f Biblioth q ue Nationale , , Ch rch St Peter Montmartre, 62 - 6 6 48 Bois de Boulogne,

8 o f . 2 0 Bois de Vincennes, Church St Sulpice, ’ ’ d Aute uil 63 e l Est 67 Boulevard , Cimeti re de , d o uve lle 43 e 2 3 Boulevar Bonne N , Coll ge de France, 36 37 42 e c i 54 Boulevard des Capucines, , , Com di Fran a se , ’ r l HO ital 2 6 es A e t Me s 8 0 Bouleva d de p , Conservatoire rts tier , d I a i 41 42 e o f M 43 5 8 Boulevar des t l ens, , Cons rvatoire usic , , ’ 40 42 43 d An o ulém e 1 8 Boulevard de la Madeleine , , , , Cour g , ' 4 d Au ste rlitz 1 9 7 Cour , ’ du a 2 9 d H o n n e u r 1 8 Boulevard Pal is , Cour , 2 3 V 1 9 Boulevard de Port Royal , Cour de la aleur, e 2 9 1 8 Boulevard de S bastopol , Cour de la Victoire, l H IV 1 5 1 6 Bou evard enri . , Cours de Vincennes, Po isso niére 41 o f 8 5 8 7 Boulevard , Coye, Forest , , 43 Boulevard St . Denis, 2 0 DOME I 1 9 Boulevard St . Germain , des nvalides, 2 2 2 9 Boulevard St. Michel , , E 3 ECO E a x- A 2 4 British mbassy , 7 L des Be u rts , 0 E 2 2 Buttes Chaumont, 7 cole de Médecine , Ec 2 3 ole Polytechniq ue, CAB R ET du 50 5 1 E 2 2 A Ciel , , cole Prati q ue , E 1 9 du a 5 1 . Cabaret Ne nt, glise St Louis , ’ l O u rc 6 4 E ff T w 1 9 Canal de q , i el o er, Cam av alet 79 E e 72 73 Museum , lys e, , 1 00 C. C C 8 : E. A U L S H ED BY T . K P B I . J R S ET L O D O C ED INBU RG H H EN I ET T A T RE N N W. . 1 6 , , ;

A History of Pain ting T h e Painte rs of Jap an A Ne w a nd r A W o rk ' Impo tant rt Mr ARTHUR MORRISON S Important Book on By HAL DAN E MACFALL JAPAN E S E ART t RANK B RANG WY N With an In roduction by F A ' V Mr rthur Morrison s authority as a connoisseur in To be completed in Eight olumes. Illustrated m I s Japanese ai ing is unrivalled in Europe , and especially T wo H n R p o ns 1 11 o o of a ckno wle m s . With ' ' u dred e r ductio C l ur ged a ong the Japane e themselves o s mos m s c r s the W rld t Fa ou Pi tu e n s f p n b s by som V I R o l. . The enaissance in Central Italy The Pai ter o Ja a will e illu trated e n n w n y p o c ns n co o e n o o R V p , 2 . The enaissance in enice hu dred a d—t e t re r du tio i ll t a d c l ur S 1 0 L 1 L I S f i p Wi m s y 5 in s 3 The ater talians and the Genius of pain o large ze the age ll ea’ ure che o wn s n on y f m s f o s n , R i n N 4. The enaissance the orth and the Flemish elected ot l ro the author am u collectio f m o p n o i ns n p n m ca , n Genius but ro ther im orta t c llect o i Ja a , A eri a d op . s s ions c p is so of Vo l. . E 5 . The Dutch Genius 7 The British Genius ur e The e illu trat Will om r e me the s n fin s o o s o o m s s of p n . 8 . f f 6 . The French Genius The Modern Genius rare t a d e t the w rk the ld a ter Ja a ” A H I n istory of Painting Will be issued sets in eight The Painters of Japan will be published in two (0 110 i n 5 . 6 d. £ 5 . . volumes handsomely bound cloth at 7 net per volumes and handsomely bound at 5 , 5 net per set as E D IT IO N D E L U XE volume. The work Will also be issued a series ofvolumes There Will also be an in which the plates I m r IOnS W I ll a a e se V which may be purchased separately. The binding of this (first p eS S ) be inserted on p n ellum and ff w . series Will di er some hat from the binding ofthe sets , but a duplicate set inserted unstitched hese Will be limited S 1 0 1 0 5 e b e . 1 0 s t. the pri ce Will the same to 5 copies igned and numbered at £ , net per

T h e Book of D e c orativ e Furniture Its F H E W L EY S . a d By D IN FO , Fellow oc Designers orm , Colour, n istory " S \Vo o dwo rk Vo l t e Authorof omeold , . I . ofthis Impor ant and B autiful ’ Ou r H G B a D e s e tc. ousehold ods their e m and signer , Vl o rk now ready

0 0 R i F A ro w x t With 1 eproductions in Full Colour of Br tish and Foreig n urniture from Drawings by the uthor , and Te llustrations orrelated Cha rt s of Britis h Wood work St ) les nd ontempora ries Decorative nd Furnish i ng Accessories I ' C a C a 0 e t l . n o m s n s m y bo n 5 . n s . Principal rees , etc I two v lu e ha d o el u d , 5 et the S o we can t h e w co m re h e nswe an re wo us e far as Judge from opening numbers , this ork is likely to be more p than y p encyclop dia of this a \ Mr F 5 w 1 5 b T w I kind I t i s to Contam m n ; no cl features a nd oley life kno ledge to be em odied in it hese three parts sho that he S m c d t h e s we w t h e w f n o n e q p p k h h n k n, n h v n h h n k Wi in n h fully for "t—a e as u derta e a d a e o doubt t at e complete or ll d a perma e t place t e A t/i e m e u m shelves o f co nno sse u rs.

W r h V E St an dar d o k on t e L OU R E ’ THE N W T URN E G A L L E RI E S T urne r s CO L L E CTION T h e Louv re Golde n Vision s M E W W L K N D Y C . BR K E LL . O O OC L W ByPAU G AURI By C. E IS H IND

I - P s by f y R p o ns n ou on Mo n s llustrated by Fifty four lates in Colour on Mounts , in Illu trated Fi t e r ductio i Col r u t , V S z 8 I i One V 8 1 0 . . O n e olume ( i e about } by ) handsomely bound at in olume , Cloth Gilt , by 5 net fi 2 1 5 . n . s s i s p f p n n n et The r t er ou attem t o a erma e t ature The Book records the life and art of Turner . The Illustra “ to place before the general public a critical summ a ry of the tions in Colour contain many golden v15 ions never e a p in n s of gr t n N n M s m , o t I n x a ti g the Fre ch atio al u eu t ge her reproduced before , and embodied the te t are many t sys m c S c n f om i s m s p s. r With a te ati ele tio r a ter iece extracts , new to the public , of an autobiog aphical w Th e h a i e c , e f n s n le a i e s o A h n i n h i n , n i h h v f ut ors otm sseda yoft esal e tfeatures et er a e chara t’er which wer ou d cra led o the l r S - theyoverooked theresea ches ofmodem authorities Turner s ketch books which he bequeathed to the nation . W w o n ill certainly come to be recognised as the standard ork No fin i o lum e is b e n ng h h n i h s — ~ er to fou d amo t e t ousa ds ssued t i r t h e subject Obse rze .

P ai B f Ou r Ki e e 1 0 - ortr t ook o ngs 8 c Qu ns , 6 6 1 9 1 l A MAGNIF IC E NT CO L OUR BOOK Containing o v er FORTY -E IGHT R E PRODUCTIONS IN FU L L COLOUR from the most famous a V I P intings ofour Sovereigns from the Conquest to George With nt—eresting information regarding each . CH LE S E Y E SC E e n e r a l E dzto r T LE M N H E By AR R PA O G . A AR S 2 5. 6d i 5 . ize, long folio, price net ; and cloth g lt , 5 net ' The fi r st ti m e th a t th e R oy a l P o r t r a i ts of th e Na tzo n h a v e be e n p r o d uced i n Co lo u r A T I F L B O O K S P U B L I H E D B Y T ’ B E U S . C. Cr E A U C. J C K

S e cti o n: 1 2 a n d a nd Vo lu m e 1 . co n ta m zn t /ze Je Th re e S ec tzo ns , , j , ( g ) no w re a dy T h e B i ish Bi d B —r t r ook dzto r F M O E . . B . A x B KIRK AN , . ( on . ) Illust rated by two hundred coloured drawings of British Birds and their Eggs , and numerous photographs of their N ests ; it Will give careful descriptions of the B s n m c mp cco n of b s n . L d ird a d a ore o lete a u t their ha it tha E o ge, has ever yet been attempted .

S 1 0 5 6d . n v c ons . n p c on n n f o m s b m ops 6s. n p S , , 3 I Twel e' e ti at et er e ti a d i our v lu e uckra gilt t et er 1 i s E dzt zo n de L u x e o f 0 S volume . here also an 3 5 copies , igned and numbered, in twelve Sections 2 1 5 . r £ 5 . m . at per Section net , and in fou volumes half morocco , gilt tops , at 4, 4 net per volu e

I I e w ‘ wh B B ? c i is d esx ne d t may beasked , y anotherbook—on ritish irds n thepres nt casetheans er isa verysatisfactoryone , forthis publi aton g i a fi a b e fi n n v n in i , h gh i i n n g v i i n i n i i n, t h e a d promoted o ad a ced pr c ples fact alt ou desc"r—pt o sa d uresle el ttleto desred as mea s of de t cat o mam rc a t u r Zo o lo rs t O bject istostudy t h e birdsthemselvesassentient c e s. g E vi w - - a c kno o f t h e se T h e f w veryone Will ledgethe beauty dra ingsofbird life—. bird lover Will ind information here for hich hemight l "" a z e t otherwisehave t o search through the wholeliteratureofthe S l l CC t Pa l Al a G te T h e B - D a z1 New s most sumptuous book of ritish birds that hasappeared for many y ears "y

’ The Cfl e a/f es t B o ok Jac ev e r u b /zslzed B e autiful Childre n k s p i MMORT AL i S E D B Y T H E MAS TE RS Re fe re nc e Book L E MACFAL L By c . HA DAN F OR HOM E AND O F F IC E Alw a y s s n ng in yp e a nd ke p up t o t h e la e s da e Illustrat e d by a selection of Fifty Masterpieces of Child ta di t t t t t T - k A U l e . l A Painting reproduced in colour. his charming gift boo is niversa Encyclo dia A Medica Diction L l p a A . n n m n y . n handsomely bound , the plates being on grey mounts The ega a d Commercia a d Parli Ae tar Guide ide . i 2 1 5 . 8 t . o n n of ss ns f o price s net Size by o } t Educatio aAd thePr e io Gazetteer o theW rld e. r . and Empir n English Dictiona y A Social Guide , etc. - e A volumethatpresents a halfhundr dofthedaintiest , mostlovable 0 8 1 8 p s , q o , , 3s 6d n ; c littlecreaturesthat havesattothe gre atestmasters offourcenturies , age uart cloth et loth 5 - a nd ca n t h e s , 5 . n ; f bo n 6 s. 6d. n . presents them in formas perfectas it bemade by latest gilt , red edge et hal u d, et - e o i n “ — i v n n in ing, i m y g h - mpro eme ts of m—oder colour pr t s sure of t e An x in y w l h f w ll n ns n w ll ng b .r r e traord ar eat o e co de ed a d e arra ed Wi i O e r v e M H I Th e S co ts m a dest popularty informationupon All atters of uman nterest n.

N OW R E AD Y ’ C O N T N S E V E R Y T H N m A I I G T h e W o an s Book A W OM AN OUGHT TO KNOW d U F M W H o 5. 6 . n o f i 5 . n NI OR IT Cl th , 3 et Cl th , ull g lt , 5 et ' JACK S R E F E RE NC E BOOK The Work contains a l a rge number of Illustrations

Sy nop szs of S ect zo ns

H r H T h e House ome Milline y olidays and Travel S R ion Mis ss n n s ss , s o c n otreofa dHervsa t DHre it nCh i e ao d Care ecreast fo m n W rk the ou e ealth a d the T ilet CaWreer r WE o e Food and the Kitchen Management of Money L ega l Guide omen in ducation S Me d i cm e n N ing The Table Etiquette and ocial Guide a d urs W o oo y i Literaryand S ecretarial ork Guide t C ker The Ch ld Agricultureand H orti cultu re H L Hom N rs n n M c ousehold inen e u i g a d edi al Guide D o mestic Subjects Guide to Laundry Work Gar dening Other Professions 4 Mi a n d C Plain S e wm g £9 Mending Poultry and Domestic Pets nor Arts rafts Home Dressmaking Home Carpentry and U pholstery Miscellaneous Facts and Figures A S HAKE S P E ARE L ONG L OO KE D F OR

T h e E ra S h a k e s e a re

A Ch a rm i n g S e rze s of Vo Zu m e s cov e rm g e v e ry E HT LAT E S N CO LO R pp n e a c B r a m /z of H o r tzc u /t u r e IG P I U a ear i volume . These are reproduced f r o m a ct u a t / z 1 1 b b e - G a e i Pre se nt D ay rd n ng first?s warm s; t rait s; ar — volume is entr usted to the most eminent expert 0 E dl tOV R HOO E R E ARSON P P the day on his particular subject Art i st i ca ll E th e G 5 C 6 1 5 6 d ditorof ardener hronicle bound ( by net per volume . S E S V L S V L E TS PAN I , IO A , IO By William Cuthbertson , J P. SW E E T E S H . N S P A By orace J Wright , late Secretary and Chairman ofthe ational weet Pea Society T AND STE M VE E T B L E S . . V H N a t Ve e t ROO A By Alex Dean , M hairman , g Society G’ C H i e n V M H O R H O . B r . R O . C IDS By James , Sec rchid Committee , oyal ort Society L S . Re v . P i e fa ce H . R DAFFODI By . J . Jacob by W Wilks, Sec . oyal ort Society E N NS Z L E S T/ze r d o n t/zz b e c t H AND . s v lu m e u élzs fie s su i R ODOD DRO A A A ( fi t o p j ) By Will am V A S R e w H L K . Watson , M Curator ofthe oyal Botanic Gardens , C T I NS AN D I N K H H - ARNA O P S. By T . Cook , ead Gardener to the Queen Mother at Sandringham ‘ V H M L e o d H . . pon Mo n James Douglas , M and J F , ead Gardener to Mr J Pier t rga LE S AN E S V H D . APP P AR By George Bunyard , M .

L L E S A F L . S. I I . By . Grove ,

T i th e T h e s b e fin d h s gi k h h i i i x n , n v n Wi e e are—rea'lly ft boo s from t e publ s er to publ c seres to e te ded a d e ery umber ll a read we lcome Re7/ zew Qf R er/ zews B t h e a re w s th e th eautifully illus—tratedas books , ho ever, a till higher valueattachesto cultural directions and the general information as to known i a rie t ie s D a zly A e ws

T h e Pil im B O O KS B e autiful Flo w e rs and gr V SH E S E E L ME The First Three olumes are AK P AR , A H B e nsu sa n. b R O R S . L O By . s H OW Gro w T he m AW DSW T 7 Illu trated to . Forestier lu s 1 1 1 N ew Vo m e , 9 A S ta n da r d Au th o rzty a nd A B ea u tif u l B o o k C E NS K. DI K . By CleIment Shorter E R H \VI L L IAM M OR R . By n ss o By HORAC J . W IG T The Famous S the Cou te f VVa rW i ck WALTE R . R H Ho c i s s P W IG T rti ultur t T E NN YS A ON . By Benjamin mbler O H S N B a m e s Illustrated With ne undred Plates in Full RU KI . y J Symon s f o n n s by n ow Colour r m Pai ti g the leadi g Fl er In this series an attempt Will be made to tell in simple form n s of y. Pai ter the da and With an accuracy founded upon personal i nv e st i g a t IOi o o s c o . On n n s d Tw v l l th e Gui ea et the et and close rea ing , the story of some of our famous writer considered largelyfrom the sta ndp o m t of their surroundings T h e ng t h e fin - i y e t platesare amo est colour p ctures place ri m th e d wh o m s c - s o p ss ss o m s p g s s W v t h e public B u t it is more than a picture book of b e Tho e o e thev lu e erie illha i l ri m a fl we n h o “ t o w p s n n b co p n on n y on p g g o rs fo t tells gro them . thereby appealing to a larger a lea a ta drelia le m a i whe the go I d th a publicthan thepurelyartistic ts form an price make rt an ideal to thehomes andhaunts oftheir favouriteauthors , a life says all that need be said , and sets down nothing that ma y b m s p fl o s . T h e authors of t h e popular b u t practical letterpress are well rightl e dee ed u er u u recognisedauthorities T/ze T u n e s The volumes are beautifully boundand issued at net e a c

NE W ISSU E IN P ICTUR E BINDIN G T h e G re at O e ras se rie s p Four Coloured Illustrations by v u S H AW

- C THB T H 1 5 . E dzto r . E E J U R ADD N Cloth gilt , gilt top , net I Faust 5 Tannhauser 9 Flying Dutchman - I T ri st ra n 2 Carmen 6 T h e Meister Singers o and Isolde fl 3 The Bohemian Girl 7 The R ing o f the N ibelung 1 1 Madame Butter y 1 2 O a V 4 L ohengrin 8 Cavalleria R usticana and Pagliacci per s of erdi “1 11 3 10 t h c o m v s succ ni c t s f p o n mov m n o p c , c by c ; no s on . n cEoa hpovs lu ne goine o sdetailo o the l t a d the e e t f the ie e a t a t te the o m er , a d the w rk a a wh le — T h e B - b e l w th e ooks Which can car—ried in an evening dress pocke t Without bulging are artisticaly got up , hile coloured illustrations ad greatly totheirattract “ e ne ss l e S ta n d a ad

The first series at a popular price to reproduce th treasures ofart in full colour . Each volume cor Mast e r l e c e s I n C0 1 t o e t h e p our t ains eight pictures reproduced in colour , g With a monograph on the artist by a w riter S 6 8 1 5 6d by . . n p m ize Price et er volu e distinction . Volu m es a lre a dy issu ed Lei g hton Murillo V l n f ‘ l R a e b I p n n a r ri n rla urn I N D E X 1 0 1

t T 4 - 53 E e a 73 a , , 7 lys e Pal ce , Montm r re he 69 d I 1 8 , Esplanade es nvalides, Montmartre Cemetery u t a rnasse 69 E a 8 7 o p , t ng de Comelle, Cemetery o ntso uris k o f 5 , Par , 7 1 3 ’ a all , F E a d E ice s 1 6 Morg n G ery OI R u Pai p , n MOP P e T 34 8 0 g r he, o ntaineble au 8 , 8 9, 9 F , a 48 50 M l i d l al , , Oflice 1 8 ou n e G ette Foreign , 4 5 Muette, La , 7 , 7 M e 2 3 uso de Cluny, GA E RI E la 8 0 L de Révolution , a z 4 . La a , 7 P O EON 1 2 G re St re NA L , E 1 8 a m a , H 2 5 Germ n b ssy Natural istory Museum , d 2 a Palai , 7 74 Gr n s Notre Dame de Consolation , 56 Gymnase, ’ CE o f T 74 PALA the rocadero , ES 38 i - 1 8 HALL Centrales, Pala s Bourbon , H i a 63 73 ppodrome Longchamp, Palais de Glace, ’ H6 d I 1 8 d H o nne ur 1 8 tel es nvalides , Palais de la Legion , H6 79 1 2 tel de Soubise , Palais Royal, Ho 1 4 T 2 3 tel de Ville, Panthéon , he, Ho i 31 M a 71 tel D eu , Parc once u, H6 43 64 tel Drouot, Passy, Ho a 35 T 8 5 tel L mbert, Pelouse , he , Ho z 35 e 66 67 68 tel Lau un, P re Lachaise, Le , , , 2 3 Petit Palais, 7 , 7 Pie rre fitte 8 5 2 2 9 , ILE d la i é, 7, e C t h 50 Ile d la l 64 Place Blanc e, i , ‘ e Fo e i 5 5 Ile du x 64 Place Bo eldieu , P a , ute u ’ d An v e rs 4 4 Pla , 7 Ile . 8 3 ce S L i , , t ou s 4 48 49 I 2 4 Place de Clichy, 7, , nstitut de France, Place e 1 4 de Gr ve, ’ d ltalie 2 7 ’ Place , JAR ni N d Acclim atatio n 6 4 65 , , 1 5 Pla d la Ba ill , Ja d d Pa 73 ce e st e r in e ris, P a d la d 1 0 1 6 41 J 2 5 2 6 l ce e Concor e, , , ardin des Plantes, , 1 6 Place de la Nation , ’ l Et o ile 1 0 1 1 Place de , , L ac I f 6 4 ’ é i , l Hot e l 1 4 n r eure Pla d d ill , ’ ce e e V e ’ L Ode o n 5 6 ’ ’ , Pla d l O a, 37 ’ ' ce e er L O e ra 5 5 p iq , du 37 Com ue Place Pa ais Royal , 1 0 1 2 1 3 L , , , da T ea 37 ouvre Place h tre Francais, L x T 2 0 2 1 2 2 m g, h , , , Pla ce o 38 u e bour e Vend me, ’ L Univ e rsité 2 2 d 1 0 1 5 , Pont de la Concor e, , La ll 70 8 Vi ette , Pont Mirabeau , i 8 Pont Nat onal, I OT 6 5 P Ne u f 2 9 30 MA LL , ont , ,

M 1 4 . 30 arsan Pavilion , Pont St Louis, M T 45 P a e o f 8 7 étro , he , ont rm , Forest , M e ' 79 64 6 5 ont de Pi te, Porte Dauphine, , 1 0 2 I ND E X

. D 43 1 0 39 40 41 Porte St enis , Rue Royale, , , ,

f o f 30 . 43 Pre ecture Police, Rue St Denis,

o f . 8 1 . H 38 Priory St Martin des Champs, Rue St onoré,

’ UAI l Hotel 1 5 E du 1 3 Q de de Ville, SALL Mastaba , ’ d Orsa 1 0 Sal ét riére 2 6 Quai y, p ,

t St . 2 4 T 8 Quar ier de Germain , Seine, he , 8 7 Senlis, OU VR Y 63 e 97 R A , S vres, 2 4 w T 8 3 Rue Bonaparte, Se ers, he , ’ d Am ste rdam 47 T 2 3 Rue , Sorbonne, he, A 30 32 4 Rue de réole, , Sq uare St. Pierre, 7 ’ l Abba e 2 0 8 Rue de y , St . Cloud ,

2 9 . E a 39 Rue de la Cité, St ust che Church ,

x 38 . e 2 3 Rue de la Pai , St Genevi ve Library, x 30 r Pres 2 0 Rue des Deu Ponts , St. Ge main des , H s 38 Rue des alle , ' 1 0 l l 1 2 36 3 41 TH EAT R E G 8 1 Rue de Rivoli , , , , , 7, de la alte , St e inke r ue 47 T a t M 3 Rue de q , he re arigny, 7 du 30 T M H 5 4 Rue Bellay, heatres and usic alls, du Po isso ni e re 43 T e T o f 8 5 Rue Faubourg , h ve, he valley the,

da F A 1 6 T o f I . 1 9 Rue aubourg St. ntoine, omb Napoleon , 43 Tro cadéro 74 Rue Drouot, , 48 50 T 1 1 1 2 Rue Lepic , , uileries, , 2 3 Rue Monge , — 39 41 VERSArLL Es 90 97 Rue Montmartre, , ,

T H E E ND

P in e d b B LL NTYNE H ANSON Gr Co . r t y A A , Edinb urgh Gr Lo ndo n

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