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Area Notes 1997 EDITED by JOSE LUIS BERMUDEZ

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Area Notes 1997 EDITED by JOSE LUIS BERMUDEZ Area Notes 1997 EDITED BY JOSE LUIS BERMUDEZ Alps and Pyrenees Lindsay Griffin Russia and Central Asia Paul Knott Greenland Derek Fordham Scottish Winter Simon Richardson Middle East TonyHoward India Harish Kapadia Pakistan Lindsay Griffin & David Hamilton Nepal Bill O'Connor South America and Antarctica Chris Cheeseman LINDSAY GRIFFIN Alps and Pyrenees 1996 .. 1997 This report looks atselected activity, in terms ofboth exploration and technical performance, during the winter of 1996-97 and the following spring to autumn season. In preparing these notes Lindsay Griffin would like to acknowledge the assistance of Jerome Arpin, Valery Babanov, Gino Buscaini, A1ain Delize, Stevie Haston, Robert Jasper, Andy Kirkpatrick, Igor Koller, V1ado Linek, Pat Littlejohn, Fran~ois Marsigny, Neil McAdie, Martin Moran, Andy Parkin, Emanuele Pellizzari, Tony Penning, Michel Piola, Franci Savenc, Hilary Sharp, Pierre Tardivel, Paolo Vitali, Ed Watson and Matjez Wiegele. Technical grades are either French or UIAA unless otherwise stated. New route descriptions or corrections and any information on Alpine Club members' activities will be most welcome and should either be sent to the Club or directly to: 2 Top Sling, Tregarth, Bangor, Gwynedd LL57 4RL. It is hoped that in the future all corrections and revised descriptions to routes that currently appear in Alpine Club guides will be published and acknowledged on the AC's web site (http://www.alpine-c1ub.org.uk) WINTER/SPRING 1996-1997 Pyrenees Although seemingly little frequented by other than relatively local French and Spanish climbers, the high mountains of the Pyrenees have enormous potential 243 244 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 1998 for excellent winter routes. However, the ever-changing and unpredictable Mediterranean climate ensures that many ofthe best lines are often in condition for rather limited periods at a time. Pie Blanc de Troumouse A new ice/mixed route was created on the 500m N Face of this 2957m peak above the Heas Valley at the beginning of March. Bande de Sioux was climbed by A Milhau and Jerome Thinieres, and given an overall grade ofTD+. Peiia Telera Two new, primarily rock routes were climbed on the main summit of this fine 2764m peak above Panticosa. Senda de 105 Cuervos (400m: 5+/6a but mainly 4/5) by Isidoro Sanches and Enrique Villasaur takes a rightward leaning crack line to the right of the classic North DiMre(Abajo/Forn, 1970: EDI), finish­ ing upthe crest ofthe NWRidge. Direaa a la GmnDiagonal(35Om: 5+)by Antonio Gamo, SalvadorMorales and Villasaur takes the obvious crack line below roofs to the right ofRaquel (Femandez and party, 1979: D+ in good neve) leading in to the 1971 winter classic GmnDiagona/(AD+). Pieo de Anayet Koldo Orbegozo and liiaki Ruiz have climbed a new winter route on the E Face of this very famous 2559m summit to the N of the Peiia Telera. AtxarteBizirik(350m: D+/TD-: IV/4) links snow fields on the left side of the face, via icy ramps, narrow gullies and a crux water-ice pitch of 7m at 85°, before finishing up the top section of the N Face. Pa de Sucre On the NE Face of this 2863m peak immediately N of the Aneto Massif, Joan Carlos Martin and Jordi Mena climbed a new route left of the NE Couloir. Named the Salas/Montaner Couloir and completed in December '96, the 300m route was mainly 50-65° with two hard sections, one of 80° and another of5 and AI. Tuc de Contesa Joan Jovier and Eduard Requeii.a climbed Via del DiMre on the N Face of this 2786m peak situated above the Conangles Valley in the Besiberri Group. The overall grade was IV/5+ with two hard pitches to start (90° then 80°) but above, the climbing is escapable. Posets Starting from the Viados Hutat 1740m, Eduard Abello and Joan Miguel Dalmau made the first ascent of the Couloir Caribe (35Om: TD-), a mixed climb of 5 and 7(1' on the W Face of this major 3375m peak in the Central Pyrenees. Pie du Midi d'Ossau Patrice Fauret, Philippe Martins and Christian Ravier climbed a hard new mixed/ice route, BuffetFroid (ED2: 700m: F5/5+ and 9(1'), on the N Face to the right of the two existing winter routes of Ya du Grisou dans l'Tempo (Berger/Thivel, 1993: TD+: 800 and 5+) and Santa Coloma Couloir (Thivel, solo, 1993: TD+/EDI: 75° and 5+). Remi Thivel took part in three important ascents on the S Face of the mountain during February. His open­ ing gambit was the first winter solo ascent of the classic and somewhat ex­ posed, vertical-to-overhanging S Pillar(de Bellefon/Despiau/Gremier/Ravier/ Ravier, 1956: 250m: TD+: 6b+, originally 5 and A2). On 8 February, with C Dupouy, he put up .Guignol's Band, an ephemeral 700m ice runnel on the S Face at V/5- and on the following day the same pair put up a second line on the same partofthe face, which they christened Fortune Canie (also 700m and V/5-). Gra del Fajol Petit On the NE Face of this 2563m top in the Cirque of the Ull de Ter (Far Eastern Pyrenees, south of the Canigou), Eduard Brocal and Marc Canela climbed a 155m (4-pitch) couloir which they named Reservoir Dogs (50-60° with a little mixed). ALPS AND PYRENEES 1996 -1997 245 Pic Fachon The French climber, Daniel Lanne, climbed two new routes towards the end of January on this 2450m peak in the Balaitous Group. Metamorphose is a sustained 200m climb up a narrow ice runnel at TD+, while Excelsa takes the 200m chimney line to the left at ED1. Los Picos de la Garganta On the 2559m Pico Llana, less than a kilometre W of the Pico de Aspe in the Western Pyrenees, Joserra Exkisable and Iiiaki Ruiz made probably the first winter ascent of the original RabadalNavarro Route up the N Chimney (300m: D+: 80° with rock to IV), a good example of an old rock route transformed into a very 'worthwhi1e winter excursion. Ecrins Massif Pic Sans Nom On the WNW Face Sti~phane Benoist and Arnaud Guillaume put up a superb new rock route at the end of March. Eloge de la Fuite starts up the great NW Couloir, then immediately climbs the wall50m left of the 1971 route in 14 pitches to the upper NW Ridge (6a and A2: two bivouacs on the wall). Tete du Rouget On 8 March Jean Gleizes, Fabrice Gautier and Loic Barettaud made the first winter ascent of the Le Tresor de Rackham de Rouget (Cambon/Chapoutot, 1993: 470m: 15 pitches: ED1: 6c max), a fully bolted line up the great compact slabs in the centre of the S Face, left of the Girod Pillar. The rock was warm and snow-free but the approach and descent, in deep snow, interminable. Mont Blanc Massif Weather and conditions throughout most of the season were excellent, with the result that the Massif was often teaming with climbers, especially at the weekends. A good ice build-up on the N faces of the higher peaks had occurred during the autumn and a very heavy snowfall before Christmas, followed by a stable dry period, made access problems minimal. At lower altitudes, eg in the Aiguilles, conditions were somewhat thinner and the climbing much more taxing. Despite the wonderful weather and excellent conditions, surprisingly little innovatory climbing appears to have been achieved, alpinists seemingly content to repeat all the traditional hard classics, and the vast majority of these at the accessible venues. Brouillard Arete Over 15-16 January, Patrick BerhauIt and Francis Bibollet made the second ascent ofthe E Goulotte ofPunta Baretti (500m: TD) on the lower Brouillard Ridge. They claimed this as a new route, unaware at the time that it had first been climbed back in 1986 by the maestro Gian Carlo Grassi, with Sergio Rossi and Angelo Siri. Mont Blanc du Tacu1 On the 9 March Robert Jasper and Daniela Klindt climbed Vol de Nuit, a hard new mixed route immediately right of the 1995 Gouault/Haston line Scotch on the Rocks. Branching out from below the first hard pitch ofScotch, the pair climbed 40m ofGrade 8-, after which the difficulties were far less sustained (5 max). The pair returned on 2 April and this time made an on-sight ascent of Scotch on the Rocks. Jasper felt his own route to be the harder of the two and rated Scotch as IVI7M. Grandes Jorasses Michto is a new route on the N Face ofPointe HeIene that follows a series of ephemeral goulottes between the two Polish Routes put up in 1970 and 1975. It was completed in just 14 hours on 3 March by the female 246 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 1998 French guide Fran90ise Aubert and the well-known Jean-Christophe Lafaille. The hard climbing was characterised by thinly-iced runnels in compact rock, with protection sparse and difficult to arrange. A grade ofVI/6 and A213 was awarded. I Aiguille du Plan In late March a new route on the N Face (exact line j unknown) by K Bodin and S Montaz-Rosset was christened Ou sont /es I Poulardes?and given an Alpine ice grade of IllI5+. M Capucin du Requin On 25 January Laurent Fabre and Raphael Gaime climbed the couloir on the NE Face which starts right of Pointe 2851m and curves up behind the front face of the Capucin to a notch in its SE Ridge at c3000m. Le Nez Rouge was left equipped for a rappel descent and awarded a grade of III/5 and A 1. The first three pitches gave 85-90" sections on particularly thin ice.
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