How to Become an Alpinist
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H O W T O BECOME A N A L P I N I S T SWITZERLAND IN SUNSHINE AND SNOW M ND D’A E RGNE By ED U UV ” Author of ola Mon t e z am ou s as tles and Palaces L , F C o fI taly D omy with 4 I llu str ation s in Colou r and 2 H al tone P ates Cl t!: ilt. 3 f l . o g 7s . 6d . n e t . A oo o fu nu sual inte rest en tertainmen t and b k , animatio n which wi e ase eve r trave e r r , ll pl y ll , p o s e tiv or r ctiv th ro h th cou ntr of p c e e trospe e , u g e y ’ Wi iam T e Mr d A u ver n e th oro u h u n e r ll ll . g g ly d s tan s th e thr ee fo ift o fhi stor e scr i tion an d d ld g y , d p h mo T h e wh o vo u m e i fu f the same u ur . l e l s ll o ua itie s ha i a te rn atin an d co unte r a ancin q l , pp ly l g b l g one an oth e r . T h e o is a mira i ustrate b ok d bly ll d , ’ ’ bu Mr d A uver n s o wn i rar t i so ic t g e l te y s yle s p tur esqu e th at it scarce ly n e eds th e se ad ve n titio us aids . 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UI PMEN T AND T RAINING T wo ACCI D E NT S ON MONT BLANC EXCURSIONS FOR BE GINN E RS CIN E MA T OGR AP H ING TH E MATT E RHOR N WH Y ALPIN E ACCID EN T S H APPE N IN AN AVALANCHE PA T H S OME FAMOUS WOME N A LPINIST S WH ER E GUID E S AR E T RA IN ED PLA YING WIT H DE AT H R OCK CLIMBING ON T H E CLOCHE T ONS D E PLAN PR Az AMONG T H E R ED NE E D LE S T H E GR AN D S T B E RN A RD H OSP ICE CINE MATOGR APH ING MON T BLANC UND E R DIFFICULT I E S ON AN ALPIN E FU N ICU LAR R AILWAY IN AN AL PIN E BLIZZ ARD H IN TS ON AL PIN E PHOT OGR AP HY H ow T o G E T K ILLE D IN T H E ALPS LIST OF ILLU ST R A T ION S MR FR ED E RICK B URLINGHAM F r ontispiece T h e Man who Cine matographed th e Matterhorn T O F A CE PAGE T H E A E D U D R U FE ET T H E A E IGUILL , , IGUILL VE T E EET LE S RT E AN D LES R , F , COU S D T E EE T H E D T A CE AN D T H E ROI S , S N IN IS N ; M E FE ET PH OT OGR APH E D M T H E OIN , , i FRO COL D E LA B UCH E T H E B E T N F E ET EE F M TH E R I HOR , , S N RO GOR N ER G R A T ABOVE ZERMAT T T H E MER D E GLACE T H E VILL AGE OF LE S H OUCH E S IN T H E VALL EY OF CH AMON Ix IN T H E S HAD OW OF MONT B LANC M E LAU GE L AND T H E D E E B E T ONSI UR GUI , JUL S URN , ON TH E PET I T CH AR Moz IN T H E G AN T E A T H E PET T CH AR MOZ A R I CR GS OF I , IrIN E T R AINING GROUN D FOR ALPINISTS GUID E S IN DIFFICULT I ES AT T H E CR EVASS E D “ T W E D E E D . P E E A JONC ION HIL SC N ING I RR C SOLI , WH O WAS S T RUCK BY LIGHT NING ON MO N T B LANC H IS LAST VOYAG E ACROSS T H E ET ERNAL ICE vii viii LIST OF I LLUSTRATION S T O F ACE PAG E MADAME F E DE B AM AN D T H E DE R RICK URLINGH GUI , A TE PA T A E A E AT T H E UGUS YO , CROSSING CR V SS “ ” JONCT ION ON T H E IR WAY T O T H E GRAN D S MULET S AT T H E G A D M ET W E E ON E S EE P BE F E R N S UL S , H R L S OR CLI MBING MONT B L ANC T H E MAT TE F EE T E E F M T H E RHORN , , S N RO PAT H ON T H E H OR N LI FIRST CONTACT WIT H T H E MATT E RHORN PR E CI PICE S B RIT ISH AN D COLONIA L K IN E MAT OGRAP H C A RAVAN A RRIVING AT T H E H OR N LI CABAN E ABOVE T H E CLOUD S APPRO ACHING T H E MATT E RHORN CRAGS T H E SUMMIT OF T H E MATT E RHORN MR E E B FR D RICK URLI N GH AM WI T H CIN E MATO GRAPH C A ME RA ON T H E SUMMIT OF T H E MA R E H E TT E RHORN . MON TE OSA IS S E N IN T D IST ANCE SUNRISE ON MONT BLANC CREVASSES IN T H E GLACI E R D U GEAN T MR B URLINGHAM AN D PAR TY ON T H E SUMMI T OF T H E AIGUILLE D U MOI N E MON T B LANC AND T H E CH AMON Ix NE ED L E S AR E S E E N IN T H E D IS TANCE LUNCH AT F E ET MR S FA B W MA T H E H MA A A NNY ULLOCK ORK N , I L Y N ’ E XP E WH O H D T H E W D A T T D E LOR R , OL S ORL S L I U R E C D FOR W ME E ET OR O N , F LIST OF I LLUSTRATIONS ix T O F ACE PAG E I A E E H E E M M S S S . P C T H A CA A NNI K , ROIN OF ON U S R N IN PE RU MAR V IN T TH E FAM M E . G F E C MB E LL , OUS R N H CLI R , IN A T ICKLISH PLACE ON T H E AIGUILLE D E T R ELAPOR TE MR S A E LE B D T H E WE - W P E UBR Y LON , LL KNO N R SI ’ D E NT OF T H E LAD I E S A LPINE CLUB OF LON D ON M D A K E E P AD E P A W E Ex ISS OR N, OF HIL L HI , HOS PLOR ATION S IN TH E AND E S AN D ALASK A H AVE ATT R ACTED ATTE NT ION F A E E E E H A E C E VE F A T R UL IN L ONOR S N L R , OF R NKFUR AM-MA W T T H E FAM G DE A EXA D E IN , I H OUS UI , L N R B E E W H O L T L E T H E URG N R, OS HIS IF ON JUNG FRAU F A V ET A MA E V E A T H E FAM R U IN Y R, OF I NN , IN OUS M E T H E Z MME R Ax A T A CHI N Y ON I R , , IN US RI MADAME MAD E E E F A Z NAM D A T E F L IN R N UR , UGH R O .