Extension Bulletin 57 4 August 1964

PATCH POCKETS

SEWING SKILLS

Patch pockets are as decorative as they are useful. open on each side and grade it to remove excess They can give a garment interesting contrasts of fabric (Fig. 2). fabric grain, texture, or color. Their general design, Turn the hem to the inside of the pocket. To however, must harmonize with the design of the make sharp points at the top corners, run a needle garment. and thread through a few yarns of the corner. Hold Some patch pockets are lined; others are not. both ends of the thread and pull the corner out Your pattern will tell which type is best for the gently. garment you're making. Press the seam allowance of the pocket to the wrong side. Fold close to the line of stitching but don't let the stitching .show on the right side. To UNLINED PATCH POCKETS make the seam lie more smoothly, trim to about % inch (Fig. 3). ROUND CORNERS Pin or baste the pocket on the garment. Top On an unlined patch pocket, start by finishing stitch close to the edge. To reinforce the top corners the raw edge at the top. Turn under ~ inch on the stitch at an angle into the pocket; then turn and top edge. Stitch close to the fold. stitch again parallel to the edge (Fig. 4) . Then fold along the hemline indicated on the pattern. Fold the right side of the hem to the right SQUARE CORNERS side of the pocket and pin in place. Starting at the top, stitch on the seamline around the sides and If the pocket has square corners, finish the hem bottom of the pocket. Tie threads or backstitch at the same as for round corners. Finish the top edge, the top of the pocket (Fig. 1). fold the hem, and stitch all around the pocket. Trim Trim the top corners of the hem. Press the seam and tum the hem.

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FIG. 1-Turn and stitch top FIG. 2-Trim corners. Press FIG. 3-Turn hem to wrong FIG. 4-Top stitch close to edge. Then fold hem to right hem seams open and grade side. Press back seam allow­ edge of pocket. Reinforce side. Stitch around pocket. to remove excess fabric. ance. Trim to % inch. corners for more strength.

EXTENSION SERVICE INSTITUTE OF AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY PULLMAN, WASHINGTON HEMLINE

FIG. 5-0pen seam allow­ FIG. 6-Trim corners to 'Is FIG. 7-Join fabric to lin­ FIG. 8-Pull ease threads so ance. Turn corners on diag­ inch. Leave folded. Then ing. Leave opening in seam. pocket is smaller than lining. onal where seamlines cross. refold seam allowances. Ease stitch around edge. Pin and baste.

Then press the seam allowances to the wrong pocket slightly smaller than the lining. Pin in place side. Make sure the stitches do not show on the (Fig. 8). Baste and remove the pins. right side. Open out the pressed seams. Turn both Stitch on the lining seamline or, in other words, corners on a diagonal line where the pressed seam­ stitch % inch from the edge. Backstitch at the top lines cross. Press carefully (Fig. 5). corners. Trim the corners and grade the seam allow­ Trim this turned-back corner to about Ys inch ances. Trim the lining seam allowance narrower from the crease. Leave it folded on the diagonal than the pocket seam allowance. crease. Then fold the pocket seam allowances back Turn the pocket right side out. Draw it through as pressed before (Fig. 6). This is called a mitered the opening left when the lining and pocket fabrics corner. were stitched together. Notice that the lining is Top stitch the pocket to the garment and reinforce smaller than the pocket because the pocket was the corners. eased in slightly. This keeps the lining from show­ ing on the right side. Use a needle and thread to pull the top corners LINED PATCH POCKETS square. Press the pocket and lining flat. Hand stitch the opening in the hem. A lined patch pocket is often used on a tailored Pin or baste the pocket onto the garment. Stitch shirt, coat, or jacket. Follow the same instructions by hand or machine. Reinforce the top corners. whether the pocket has round or square corners. If you use hand stitching, there should be no First attach the lining to the hem of the pocket. stitches showing on the right side. Work from the Leave an opening about 1 Yz inches long in the wrong side of the garment, using a small half back­ middle of the seam. This will be used later for stitch (Fig. 9). Guide the needle so it catches along turning the pocket right side out. Press the seam the edge of the pocket but not through to the open. right side. Now ease stitch (8-10 stitches per inch) along the edges of the pocket. Use a Yz-inch seam allow­ ance (Fig. 7). Fold the pocket section along the hemline with FIG. 9-To make half back­ the right side of the pocket against the right side stitch, take %-inch stitch in fabric. Insert needle 'Is inch of the lining. Pin the two pieces of fabric together behind stitch and bring out down the center. '14 inch in front. Repeat. Then gently pull the ease threads to make the

This bulletin was adapted, by permission, from material originally published by Iowa State University.

Published and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, by the Washington State University Extension Service, C. A. Svinth, Director, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, cooperating. 15M-8-64