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www.theolivepress.es the olive press - August 21 - September 4 201325 231 ll about osta Tropical A C and Lecrin Valley While the Costa del Sol may grab all the headlines, Eastern the Costa Tropical has a refreshingly discreet style, HAD a sudden overwhelming desire to be driv- discovers Giles Brown ing a vintage convertible a la Cary Grant as I ploughed eastwards out of Nerja. Like a scene from To Catch a Thief, in which Ihe starred with Grace Kelly, the road curves Promise through sleepy coves and enjoys stunning views of the Mediterranean and Sierra Nevada moun- tains as a backdrop. There’s a real hint of Italy’s dramatic Amalfi coast as you drive, enjoying yet another vista as you come out of one of the classic old tunnels, eventually arriving in what is these days dubbed The Costa Tropical. This is where the Sierra Nevada literally plung- es straight into the sea and best of all the Costa Tropical - which runs from Nerja to Motril - enjoys a fantastic microclimate and has a bounty of beautiful beaches and atmospheric towns. As, like much of southern Spain, it has also been a historical stopping off point for centuries with the Romans leaving roads, aqueducts and a variety of other ruins. The biggest influence, however, was from the Arabs: Almunecar served as the entry point to the Iberian Peninsula and was the power base for Abd ar-Rahman, who founded an independent Muslim dynasty that ruled most of Spain for nearly three Strolling through the Old Town... experience the sights, sounds and, if you are nearing lunchtime, smells of Andalucia hundred years. Your first port of call will probably be the village of La Herradura, which has a wonderful beach. There is a low key vibe, and if you like the feel- ing of sand between your toes, this is the place. ‘The Horseshoe’, as the bay is known, also enjoys some of the best diving in Spain. Flamenco fans should also check out the an- nual festival, held in the atmospheric castle. If you fancy indulging in a little boating, nearby Marina del Este is a charming, low key marina that has a decent selection of restaurants and bars, reached by driving down through a pine lined urbanisation. Keep on going and you get to Almunecar, a real living, breathing location unlike many of the old towns of the Costa del Sol, which tend to be nothing more than ‘beautified’ collections of bou- tiques, souvenir shops and overpriced restau- rants. Strolling through the Old Town confirms this as you experience the sights, sounds and, if it’s near- ing lunchtime, smells of Andalucia. Television programmes play out from front rooms with their doors open, while coloured birds tweet from their cages and children are called in for lunch. If you pop into one of the many bars in Almun- ecar for something to drink, more often than not you’ll be asked if you want a tapa as well. It’s good to know that this custom is still alive and well in this part of the world. As you would expect from a town that has been CARY-ON: Giles comes over all Grant, without Grace strategically important for centuries, there is Kelly more than enough to keep the history buff busy. Turn to page 23 2 the olive press - August 21 - September 4 2013 22 www.theolivepress.es www.theolivepress.es the olive press - August 21 - September 4 2013 3 Costa Tropical and Lecrin Valley Special 23 Checkmate Vintage delight Surmounting a rocky pinnacle, Salobrena castle has witnessed many a dramatic incident, not From Page 21 least an event in 1408 when Yusuf, brother of Muhammad VII, the sultan of Granada, was im- with a commanding view of the sur- prisoned here. One day he was playing chess with the castle warden when an emissary of the In particular take a poke around rounding area, Salobreña was an im- MY PICKS OF THE sultan arrived. Muhammad, on his death-bed, wanted to prevent Yusuf inheriting the throne, the Castillo de San Miguel, which portant strategic location. so he had sent an assassin to kill him. Playing for time, Yusuf entertained the killer and coolly overlooks the old town and was a Cooling off in the peaceful gardens asked if he could finish the chess game. The game was still proceeding when a messenger Goats on high stronghold for the Phoenicians, Ro- beneath the castle walls, drinking in came galloping up to the castle with the latest news: Muhammad had died and a new ruler of mans, Nasrid Arabs and Christians. the stunning views and listening to Granada had been proclaimed — Yusuf. One of the most sur- Also worth checking out are the a guitarist practicing on a nearby prising sights along beautiful Palacete de la Najarra and bench, it was hard to imagine the COSTA TROPICAL the Costa Tropical is the Claves de Almunecar museum spot being the scene of bloodshed that of wild goats graz- that tells the fascinating story of throughout the centuries. Local writer David ing on the steep slopes 3000 years of Almunecar. Continue along the road from Sa- above the cliffs of the Continue along the coast road that lobreña and you’ll find the road lined Baird on his Top Cerro Gordo headland. hugs the Mediterranean and a few with sugar cane fields as well as a Ten on the Costa The cabra montes kilometres east you’ll come across scattering of plastic greenhouses for — close to being wiped Salobrena. With an more intensive agri- Tropical out about 30 years ago ancient Arabic fort culture as you head Sugar Barons — have made a come- overlooking the town towards Motril. Sugar brought great wealth back and a number of this place that has a If you are looking The town, with its to the Costa Tropical. As many goats now forage amid tangible atmosphere for the brash beach small port, marks as 29 sugar mills once oper- The Tragic Bay the crags and bushes of the old AlAndalus. clubs... then the the eastern edge ated along the coast, from Mal- there. Looking down of the Costa Tropi- aga to Adra in Almeria province. Gourmet Delight Sheltered by two great You can’t miss them from the castle Costa Tropical is cal. Although there The industry made fortunes for Visit Almunecar’s Majuelo headlands, La Herra- — a male goat, fully walls, I reflected on not for you is evidence of the a few and provided work for Park for a glimpse into the dura offers a welcome to grown, weighs around two things. One that Phoenicians set- thousands. The last azucarera gourmet tastes of 2,000 swimmers and sun wor- 75 kilos with horns up the maze of twisting tling nearby, Motril (cane refinery) on the coast years ago. Here you find a se- shippers. to a metre long. narrow streets be- doesn’t have the closed at Salobrena in 2006, ries of pits where a favourite But that beautiful You are most likely neath me had hardly charismatic old bringing an end to 1,000 years Roman snack was prepared. horseshoe-shaped bay to spot one in the early changed in centuries. I half expect towns of its neighbours. Most of the of that industry. Garum, a sauce concocted can also be a death trap. morning or evening. an Arab merchant to come bustling recent history of the town revolves from fish guts and liver, was For a vivid insight into an- A monument on the sea- David Baird is the author out of a side street at any moment. around its status as a centre for cient methods of sugar pro- shipped across the Mediter- front records Spain’s big- of East of Malaga - Es- The second thought was that I re- sugarcane production in the 18th duction visit the Museo Pre- ranean to Rome. Depending gest naval disaster. sential Guide to the Ax- ally should have brought more water and 19th centuries, meaning that it industrial del Azucar in Motril, on one’s tastes, garum was A fleet commanded by arquía and Costa Tropi- with me. Climbing Salobrena’s steep unfortunately suffers from a lack of housed in El Ingenio de la Pal- either a foul-smelling dog’s Don Juan de Mendoza, cal. His other books, streets to the fortress in the searing atmosphere. ma, the site of a sugar mill dat- dinner or a gourmet’s delight. en route from Malaga to published by Maroma heat of the August afternoon wasn’t To conclude if you are looking for Press (http://maroma- perhaps the wisest of ideas. the brash beach clubs of the Costa ing back to the 13th century. Oran on the African coast, press.wordpress.com/), sought refuge here from include Between Two When I reached the top however, del Sol, its soap stars and Premier- a storm in 1562. But Fires - Guerrilla war in the climb was more than worth ship footballers then the Costa Tropi- fierce winds smashed the the Spanish sierras, it. The view is spectacular, across cal is not for you. You won’t find a Guerrilla Dreams Cantarrijan, Cerro Gordo, shin- But once these bays were these coves and armed men fleet against the rocks — about a forgotten con- sugar cane fields and small farm- Marbella Belle here for all the Botox As you drive along the coast gle and sand beaches guarded the focus of a rebel movement leaped ashore. 25 out of 28 ships went flict, and Sunny Side Up houses down to a few low rise apart- in Basildon.

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