sign in sign up
<<
Home , Alfarnate, Antequera, Barbate, Costa Tropical, Estrella Morente, Igualeja

SummerSummerThe magazineThe magazine for the for holiday the holiday season season in southern in southern Spain / July / 2020July 2019 ’’ss here here

Stay safe in Andalucía

in English

1 2 WHAT’S INSIDE

Cover photo: , one of the ’s prettiest white villa- ges, part of the Axarquía area east of .

:: SUR

SUR IN ENGLISH SUMMER SPECIAL A different summer Director General: Antonio González Editor-in -Chief: Manuel Castillo Publications Director: Pedro Luis RACHEL HAYNES We are forever telling others about Gómez how wonderful the region of Andalucía is, In any normal year on the Costa del Sol, by with kilometre on kilometre of beautiful Editor: Rachel Haynes now, mid-July, the hotels would be full, the beaches, breathtaking mountain scenery Assistant editor: Daryl Finch beaches packed and business booming for and towns and cities oozing with culture. bars, restaurants and the many other serv- But how much have we actually explored Commercial Director: Jorge Artero ices that thrive on the industry. ourselves? Advertising Manager: Emma Vera This year, 2020, however, will be re- How often do we move from our own Art Director: Francisco Ruano membered as the year of coronavirus and local beaches to find others in different this season is perhaps already being re- provinces from our own? Contributors to this magazine: ferred to as Covid summer. Even though we’ve made the Costa del Debbie Bartlett, Ash Bolton, Jennie While the situation could change as Sol our home, how about visiting Anda- , Tony Bryant, Andrew Forbes, the season progresses, so far this year the lucía’s Atlantic coastline for a change? Or Javier Almellones absence of tourists from overseas has left the beautiful beaches of Almeria backed huge gaps, especially in areas with larger up by Europe’s only desert? Date: July 2020. concentrations of hotels and holiday This magazine aims to provide plenty apartments. of ideas to encourage residents to go out So who does that leave? With foreign and discover more of the region they holiday plans cancelled or postponed, resi- have made their home, or perhaps their dents in Spain are finding themselves look- second home. ing more closely at their own country for There’s no better time for a reminder of their summer holiday destinations. not just the wide variety of beaches, but Tourists from the rest of Spain have al- also the inland beauty and the cultural of- Published by Prensa Malagueña S.A. ways made up a significant proportion of fer of our towns and cities in the form of www.surinenglish.com visitors to the Costa del Sol and this year exhibitions and concerts. Twitter: @SUR_English their business is vital for the industry. Of course this Covid year will be differ- Facebook: @surenglish But this Covid summer has also caused ent; we’ll have to remember to wear masks Advertising: [email protected] people who already live in southern Spain, wherever necessary and keep our distance 952649669 many of us originally from other coun- from others, but that doesn’t have to stop Editorial: [email protected] tries, to take a fresh look at our immediate us from going out and enjoying this sum- 952649600 surroundings. mer in Andalucía.

3 WHAT’S INSIDE

Adapting to new times

Accommodation in southern Spain has had to move fast to be able to offer visitors the peace of mind they need in case of Covid-19 concerns. As well as adheringheringg to health and safety requirements, hotels are adaptingptingiingng to the ‘new‘new normal’, offering services and activities thatthatt guaranteeguarantee guests’ ability to enjoy themselves whilee keepingkeepepinging a safe social distance. 10

A region with everything With coronavirus messing with summer plans, there’s no better time than now to rediscover the region of Anda- lucía. Over the initial four pages of this magazineewesu we sum up the delights of all eight provinces that makee up thethe re-r gion. Later - pages 18 and 54 - we take a look at howhow horseshor and gastronomy are just two of the many aspectsctttss that merge to create the essence of the region. 6

What to do While coronavirus has led to the cancellation of nu- merous large events, south- ern Spain still has a cultural agenda this summer. Festi- vals have scaledca ed down do to al- a low space andnd meetmeet capac-capac- ity regulations,iooons,ns, but there are still plentyennntyty of chances to enjoy liveve62e music.music.

Back in A view of Exploring by train time the Rock Not having your own transport might limit visits to some Go back to medieval has a range of at- of the more remote parts of Andalucía, however doing times to learn the story of tractions for people looking without the stress of driving and parking is a great advan- Bobastro, the city whose for day-outt ideas. Hiking tage. We discover how a large numberr of destinations can little-knownwnwn remainsremains around thee nanatureture reserve be visited from the comfort of a train,n, exploringplloringoring thethe stopsstops stand not ffarar fromfrom the for spectacularular views,views, oror on both the C2 local line from Malagaa to ÁloraÁlora and the world famousmousus Caminito disappearingnngg down tunnels line from Malaga to , which passesasses throughthrouhroughgh stun- del Rey. 26 are among 46them.them. ning scenery to reach fascinating towns.wns. 38

4 5 An Andalusian summer

A paraglider over Matalascañas beach in province. :: SUR

This year, with the pandemic at the fo- If you’re in Andalucía, you know others refront of everyone’s mind, the Andalu- elsewhere in the world are envying you sian government has put strict measures in place to ensure that beach-lovers can enjoy themselves safely, with apps which can be downloaded to show how many This is a year like no other, due plans on hold because of the coronavi- people are on the beaches in real time, to the coronavirus crisis, and rus pandemic need not worry: they maintaining social distancing, strict clea- have everything for a fantastic sum- ning and disinfecting, and extra moni- many people’s holiday plans mer right here at home. tors to patrol and offer advice if necessa- have had to be abandoned. But It is no surprise that Andalucía has be- ry. come one of the most complete destina- No matter where you are in this regi- southern Spain can beat most tions in the world. Its facilities, climate, on, you will be within travelling distan- other places hands-down excellent communications, range of ho- ce of a beach. Andalucía is home to the DEBBIE BARTLETT tels and friendly and hospitable people Costa Almería in the east, the Costa Tro- have made it a firm favourite for holi- pical in province, the world-fa- days among visitors from abroad as well mous Costa del Sol in Malaga, the quie- as those in other parts of Spain. So, what ter in Cadiz and the con- is it that makes Andalucía so special? tinuation of the Costa de la Luz in Huel- va province. All very different, and all The question has to be asked: what’s Sun, sand and plenty of both very lovely. not to like about Andalucía in the For a start, as summer is here, let us not For those who get bored after soa- summer? This region in the south of forget that Andalucía has over 800 kilo- king up the sun on the beach for a few the country is the largest in Spain and metres of coastline, ranging from vast ex- hours, however, then from Huelva in is full of contrasts, so whether you panses of unspoiled deep white sand to the far west to Almería in the east, live here or are on holiday, it has tiny, rocky coves and urban beaches with the coastal area of the region also has everything you could possibly wish every facility, especially for those with numerous marinas, water sports, sea- for. Anyone who has put their travel children. front promenades, golf courses, out-

6 DIVERSITY

door sports facilities, and restaurants vir, dense Mediterranean woodlands, dation and small hotels for those who to suit all tastes and budgets. for example the Natural Park of Cazor- want to immerse themselves in natu- la, Segura and in Jaén pro- re. There are even companies speciali- Catch up on some culture vince, and even volcanic deserts and sing in activities for the youngest Most of us in Andalucía have visited stretches of coast which are comple- members of the family. some of its many historical attrac- tely uninhabited, like the Cabo de tions, but there are probably still quite Gata area in Almería. Not forgetting golf a few on our ‘I’d love to go there one Andalucía is blessed because more It would be almost unthinkable to day’ list and this is an ideal time to do than 18 per cent of its territory is en- consider spending any time in Andalu- it. After all, the history of this region vironmentally protected. There are cía without golf coming into the con- goes back an extremely long way and over 20 Natural Parks, which have fa- versation, because it is the region with there are many remains from the cilities for visitors such as information the most golf courses in Spain and the different cultures and civilisations centres, recreation areas, campsites, Costa del Sol has also been nicknamed that settled in the south of Spain over hiking routes, lookout points and re- the Costa del Golf. Its unbeatable cli- thousands of years. fuges. Outdoor activities and adventu- mate means that golf lovers can play This summer there are unlikely to re sports are becoming increasingly their favourite sport at any time of be crowds of visitors, so why not con- popular here too, and for those who year, on fantastic courses set amid sider a visit to the Alhambra in Grana- prefer to exploer by car there are nu- beautiful countryside or close to stun- da, the Mosque-Cathedral in Cordoba merous cultural and historic routes ning beaches and sea views. or the Giralda bell tower in Seville? passing through tiny villages and glo- There are about 100 courses in this And if those are already ticked off on rious countryside. region, and you can play golf in any of your list, how about the incredible If the idea of outdoor activities the provinces. It doesn’t matter what towns of Úbeda and Baeza in Jaén, appeals, there are many opportu- your stan- which together are a World Heritage nities for a rural holiday dard Site, or in Cádiz with a difference and province, the Roman town of Baelo plenty of self-ca- Claudia on the beach at Bolonia, also tering The village of Cazorla, in Cádiz province, with its fa- accommo- at the heart of the natural mous gorge, in Malaga, or Moguer, in park of the same name in Huelva? Jaén province. :: SUR Andalucía offers the chance to see amazing prehistoric and Roman sites, Islamic, and Baroque ar- chitecture, castles, fortresses and mo- nasteries, in just about every one of its eight provinces. For those who prefer their culture more modern, what about the vast range of museums and art galleries, with exhibitions which change regularly to ensure that there is always something new to marvel at and enjoy? Or perhaps after so many weeks of strict lockdown, you now have the urge to get out into the countryside, breathe some fresh air and get moving again?

Nature and rural tourism The contrasts in Andalucía are no better demonstrated than in its countryside. This region has some of the highest mountains on the , in the Sierra Ne- vada in Granada, extensive wetlands such as the Marismas del Guadalqui- DIVERSITY

of play, there are practise courses, chore here. There are thermal waters, pitch and putt, courses with nine and mud treatments, massages, therapeu- 18 holes, and a huge variety of terrain. tic baths, high-pressure water thera- pies and treatments with algae in Other sports most of the natural spas and spa cen- It doesn’t matter whether you prefer tes in the region. indoor or outdoor sports, there are ex- The baths usually offer medicinal mi- cellent facilities in Andalucía, which neral waters, personalised treatments and also hosts national and international specialist medical teams, while the spas competitions for enthusiasts who like have relaxation therapies based on the to spectate rather than participate or qualities and properties of the water. compete. Just check out what’s on offer near you, or upcoming events, A thousand ways to have fun and plan accordingly. It is often said that there are a thou- Also, it may not seem relevant in sand ways to have fun and enjoy your- the heat of an Andalusian summer, The , Seville. :: SUR self in Andalucía, and that is perhaps but nor should it be forgotten that this the main reason for its success as a ho- region is home to the most southerly liday destination. Whatever you feel ski resort in Europe, the like doing, you can do it here. It makes in Granada province, so anyone thin- it a great place to visit, and a wonder- king of a winter holiday might like to ful place to live. The eight provinces bear in mind that it is often possible to in Andalucía and they are all very sunbathe on the beach in or Mo- different. tril, for example, in the morning, and Almeria, in the east, is the driest ski or take part in other snow sports in area in the region and its desert-like the afternoon. The evenings, of cour- scenery made it the location for some se, are perfect for the after-ski, a few memorable ‘paella western’ films over drinks and a meal by a roaring log fire the years. There is now a Mini Ho- before tucking up in a comfortable bed llywood, giving visitors the chance to to rest before the following day’s fun go back in time and experience life in and exploits. this Spanish version of the ‘wild west’. The resort is fully equipped for fa- This provice is known for its wild milies, too, with activities and classes beauty, sublime beaches, 300 hours of just for children and their own super- The mosque-cathedral, Cordoba. :: SUR sunshine a year and also, surprisingly vised play area while Mum and Dad enough, its mountains because one are on the slopes. side of the Alpujarras (the foothills Depending on the snow, the Sierra Ne- and valleys south of the Sierra Nevada vada is normally open from November or in Granada) lies in Almeria province. December - and is a fabulous place to spend The capital, Almeria city, is a Christmas, with Santa Claus descending bustling port city crowned by a specta- from the mountain on skis, and New Year cular Moorish fortress, with nume- - until April or May. rous palm trees in the centre and some fantastic tapas bars. Health and beauty Moving on in alphabetical order, It would be perfectly understandable, Cadiz is in the south-west of Andalu- after the stresses of the lockdown and cía, and its capital is generally conside- problems associated with the pande- red to be the oldest continually inha- mic, to feel that you don’t want to be bited city in Europe, founded as ‘Ga- active and that all you want this sum- dir’ by the Phoenicians in 1100 BC It mer is a bit of pampering and wellbe- oozes history, and ancient remains are ing. Again, Andalucía has a vast array continually being uncovered during of options which are beneficial for building words, shedding more light body and soul and wouldn’t mean tra- on its past. velling far from home. The province is very varied, with The lovely climate, the pure moun- spectacular beaches and the rugged tain air or refreshing sea breeze mean Sierra de Cadiz mountainous area to that taking care of oneself is never a Los Infiernos, Loja, Granada. :: SUR the north, with tiny tucked-away vi-

8 llages amid terrain whch was once fre- quented by bandits. Some of Spain’s greatest wines are made here, and it is also famous for its seafood. It feels as if Cordoba - the city, at least - needs no introduction. The ca- pital of the caliphate and centre of learning in Moorish times, its past glo- ries are still there to appreciate in the form of the Mosque-Cathedral and the ruins of Medina Azahara, not far away. The province , which is inland, pri- des itself on its wine production, which it insists is equal to that of the more famous Jerez wines, and its oil. It is also known for colourful cera- mics, and its landscapes range from flat plains to beautiful mountains scattered with little white villages. El Playazo becah in Almeria province. :: SUR Granada, with which Cordoba sha- res a boundary, is stunning. The city is coast. The city was until quite re- home to the Alhambra palace and Ge- cently less well-known, but in the neralife gardens, the atmospheric past few years it has become particu- gypsy quarters of Albaicín and Sacro- larly popular for city breaks, mainly monte, and it is a treasure house of because of its culture. It has over 30 historical buildings and monuments. museums, including the Picasso Mu- This is a province of high moun- seum, the only branch of the Pompi- tains, the Sierra Nevada national and dou Centre outside and the natural parks, deep valleys, small vi- Russian State Museum of St Peters- llages and lovely coastal resorts. A burg, among many others. feast for the eyes and the senses, in Last, but definitely not least, we fact. have Seville, the seat of the Andalu- Huelva could probably claim to be sian government, famous for its cathe- the least-known province of Andalu- dral, its processions, the cía. North of Cadiz and bordering Se- Guadalquivir river, traditional gypsy ville and Portugal, it has absolutely districts and . The towns in spectacular Atlantic beaches and close the province tend to be forgotten, but connections with Christopher Colum- some, such as Carmona, are real trea- bus, of which it is very proud. The ca- sures. Seville’s beauty lies in its places pital, Huelva city, has a bustling but and its people; the landscape is flat, unpretentious port and is interesting and the province becomes extremely to visit, and is also very traditional as hot in summer. few international tourists go there. The province is known for its sea- A place that others envy food but also for the world-famous Golf on the Costa del Sol, Malaga. :: EFE Some people have decided to get to acorn-fed jabugo ham, from the pigs know a different part of Andalucía this which roam freely in the meadows cellent traditional food. The capital is year, while others prefer to stay at and mountains of the Sierra Alacena. hilly, historic and atmospheric, home but there is still no lack of On the coast is the Doñana National crowned by a castle and with a magni- things to do and enjoy. Apart from the Park, which is home to many protec- ficent cathedral. Ideal for exploring on attractions mentioned here, which are ted species of wildlife. foot. only a few of many, most councils or- The province of Jaén couldn’t be Malaga province is synonymous ganise events to entertain their resi- more of a contrast. It boasts a sea of with tourism. Everyone has heard of dents, such as open air film scree- olive groves, the World Heritage Site it, and its facilities, its beaches, its nings, theatre shows and concerts. of Úbeda and Baeza, the stunning Ca- nightlife, its golf, its sport. Few are Wherever you are, whatever you do, if zorla natural park and is a magical aware that it also has beautiful coun- you’re in Andalucía you know that combination of history, nature and ex- tryside only a short drive from the others all over the world are envious.

9 Holidaying without reservations

Rural peace and quiet at Almohalla 51. :: SUR

Although the emphasis will remain Southern Spain’s hospitality pros have on the fundamental foundation of hos- been working hard so guests can enjoy pitality (a warm, welcoming environ- ment and personalised guest experi- summer in confidence ences), many familiar aspects of a hotel stay may well feel like a whole new ex- perience this year. International borders in have created new systems to maximise SUR in English talks to four different Europe are finally opening, hygiene, food security and safety. properties - from inland, rural Malaga province to the glamour of - to and the south of Spain is Keeping the magic see how they are creating healthy, unshuttering hotels and Yet there lies the challenge for hoteliers happy hotels. - the means to effectively implement resorts and welcoming new hygiene and social distancing pro- Hotel innovations valued guests tocols, while also maintaining the es- For example, check-in and room access ANDREW FORBES sence of their properties, the unique ap- are set to be more streamlined, guest- peal and allure of their hotels. After all, friendly, and increasingly ‘contactless’ that’s why guests have made their reser- thanks to pre-arrival online check-in vations. As holidaymakers, we all want and digital smartphone room keys. to feel pampered and relaxed in our ho- Use of technology is also extending to Visitors to Southern Spain will discover tel, not nervous in a clinical environ- dining, with the use of digital menus, something new this summer; an ment. which when creatively executed, can evolved approach to hospitality that re- So unsurprisingly, hospitality profes- offer the potential for compelling guest flects the new normality of health and sionals are taking inspiration from the experiences that complement and en- safety measures designed to reduce the changes demanded by these compre- hance classic hospitality. Hotel restau- risk of Covid-19 contagion. Hotels and hensive protocols to redesign and re- rants are changing too, with more spa- guesthouses, in their desire to create magine the overall hotel experience, for cious alfresco dining; and more person- high levels of consumer confidence, the better. alised in-room meals, like in-room

10 ACCOMMODATION

Take Adapting to new circumstances. Hospitality professionals are taking inspiration from note the changes demanded by these comprehensive protocols to redesign and reimagine the overall hotel experience, for the better. ANDREW FORBES breakfasts and picnics, private dining on Luxury at the Marbella Club the terrace or balcony, and enhanced Beach Club. :: SUR room service menus that will typically be priced as the same as the restaurant, with free delivery.

Luxury and wellness Marbella Club Leading hotelier, Julián Cabanillas, Gen- eral Manager at the iconic Marbella Club, explains, “Hotels have been adapt- ing to new health and safety protocols continuously in the last decades. It will be more challenging to be able to pro- vide the warm and familiar service we are famous for while adapting to new social norms. It will be a change of pace for the Marbella Club, but we feel that creating safe havens, full of small yet significantly thoughtful details, we’ll ensure our guests continue to feel at home with us.” Marbella Club is undoubtedly one of the flagships of Andalucía’s upscale hos- pitality. It’s the kind of destination that evokes an almost magical ambiance. It is where the beauty and charm of a time- less seaside Andalusian village blends with the latest trends in wellness, gas- or suites, with no tray fee. So, guests can whole new category of 5-star hotel. tronomy and hospitality. indulge in signature cuisine when and Moored adjacent to Gibraltar’s stylish So, it is here that one can see many of where they want it, with all the ex- Ocean Village, Sunborn Gibraltar is the innovations that are driving the fu- pected style and finesse of Marbella keeping its focus well and truly on per- ture of Spanish luxury hospitality. An Club. sonal service for guests, together with approach that combines rigorous health Wellness has always been an integral new innovations in dining and wellness. and safety procedures (from employee element of the Marbella Club, and it’s Marc Skvorc, the yacht hotel’s Chief and guest health screening, extensive always being enhanced as guests desire Operating Officer explains, “As a part of cleaning and sanitising protocols, to and demand to boost their wellbeing our ‘restart the magic’ movement, I am contactless experiences), with new and immune system while on holiday. excited to say that we will be offering ways to offer the signature Marbella Marbella Club provides its wellness several new options for those returning Club style that guests have come to love menus in-room and is also bringing its to the hotel such as pre-check-in online, over the property’s illustrious 65-year award-winning spa to the guest room, special ‘picnic’ baskets and enhanced history. with treatments, and therapies offered room service. Among my favourite in- Marbella Club has taken advantage of in the private villas and suites. novations is our new Food and Beverage the fact that is it on a spacious beach and Julián Cabanillas concludes, “We are offering, now all on the top (7th-floor) surrounded by acres of private gardens doing everything possible to come back deck. Our chef has created a new menu to make social distancing a positive ele- stronger than before.” combining the best sellers from both ment in the guest experience. Rather our restaurants that can be enjoyed in a than decrease capacity, it has imagina- Stylish and shipshape completely open air setting with sweep- tively created more areas for dining, en- Sunborn Gibraltar ing views of the Bay and Rock of Gibral- joying a drink and relaxing - from the Just across the frontier, in Gibraltar, one tar. We know this is uncharted territory stylish MC Beach restaurant to garden finds another unique, luxury hotel - the for us all, but let’s take some time to re- terraces. In addition, room service has sparkling yacht, Sunborn Gibraltar. lax with loved ones, friends and family been reimagined, making it a compel- Combining the glamour of an ocean and together create a luxury experience ling alternative to the restaurants. A liner, the style of a super-yacht and the on the Sunborn Yacht Hotel along the comprehensive selection of dishes from energy of an upscale casino with the way.” across the resort’s restaurants can be de- gastronomy and luxury accommodation Sunborn is making the most of its livered directly to guest’s private villas, of a fine hotel, Sunborn has created a privileged location on the water, and

11 spoilt countryside, national parks, and protected nature reserves in Southern Spain. Almohalla 51 is a boutique guest house in the centre of the traditional white hill- top town of , north of Malaga. It has been created by Myles and David, who left London careers in travel and marketing, to move to Spain and create a guest house which reflected their love of Privacy aboard the Sunborn Gibraltar. :: SUR good service and beautiful places to stay. Taking two derelict townhouses they established a stylish retreat that epito- welcoming guests back with promo- mises the charm of a traditional Andalu- tions including, as Marc explains, “spe- sian town. cial Sunset Happy Hour vouchers, Myles and David hope that their ap- where, upon redemption, guests will re- proach to rural hospitality will be particu- ceive double the value during the sun- larly sought-after in this new era of social- setting hours”. distanced travel, where rural isolation can Behind the scenes the team will be be balanced with the attractions of a small working hard to maintain high levels of market town. David says, “Escaping to the health security. Marc continues, “At relative calm of Archidona, away from the Sunborn, we recognise that people want crowds, means an escape to cleaner air, to be reassured that the highest safety more space, but still experiencing a warm measures are in place. It is with this in and authentic Andalusian welcome.” mind that Sunborn has rigorously en- Of course, changes have had to be made hanced its already high level of cleanli- at the guesthouse to comply with new ness and hygiene in all areas of the hotel norms in social distancing and hygiene, following guidelines in accordance with Palladium Hotel, Benalmádena. :: SUR yet the focus remains on showcasing in- the World Health Organisation.” land Andalucía: hiking routes in the wild countryside; the regional cuisine of the lo- Family fun Hygiene and food safety have always cal bars and restaurants, which are well Palladium Hotel been priorities in Palladium Hotels and prepared for distanced dining on open ter- Of course, southern Spain is also all about now the company has partnered with races; and the heritage of the area. family holidays, and the Palladium Hotel SGS, a leading entity for the certification So, when holidaying in Andalucía, you Costa del Sol, the first Palladium property and implementation of safety and wel- can forget any reservations you might on the Spanish mainland, is at the fore- fare protocols, to develop further meas- have, and instead enjoy a safe and wel- front of the contemporary interpretation ures that are externally audited. coming summer season. of the 21st century family all-inclusive “We are a company that is wholeheart- holiday. edly dedicated to customer enjoyment Set on a bay, on the Benalmádena without ever compromising on safety. In INFORMATION coast, the Palladium Hotel Costa del Sol is 2020, we feel that customers will be opening for its second season, welcoming even more in need of a holiday after a couples and families who are attracted by particularly challenging period and many Marbella Club: https://www.mar- the contemporary aesthetic of the guest personal sacrifices. We look forward to bellaclub.com/en/ rooms, seven bars and restaurants, a spec- welcoming our guests with the same tacular rooftop, as well as a spa and pools. warm hospitality which our brand is Sunborn Yacht Hotel: Palladium Hotels is an international known for.” https://www.sunborngibraltar.com/ business, with decades of experience in tourism. So, despite 2020 being a chal- Rural getaway Palladium Hotel Costa del Sol: lenging year for the hotel sector, they Almohalla 51 https://www.palladiumhotel- confirm, “Palladium Hotels has been If lockdown has given you a renewed en- group.com/en/hotels/espana/mala- quick to adapt. We have already launched thusiasm for the quiet life, then you are ga/palladium-hotel-costa-del-sol a range of new initiatives and safety pro- probably not alone. This year rural Anda- tocols to ensure the wellbeing of our staff lucía will undoubtedly be more popular Almohalla 51: https://www.almo- and guests and make sure that visitors than ever, offering social distancing by halla51.com/ can leave their worries at home.” default, thanks to the abundance of un-

12 13 Dunes and cliffs hide more sheltered beaches far from the crowded seafront promenades JAVIER ALMELLONES

From steep cliffs to soft dunes, with large and comfortable beaches in-be- tween. The coastline in Malaga province is varied; it shows many different faces along its more than 160 kilometre length between Nerja and . Every summer the Costa del Sol, with its two very different parts, east and west, with Malaga city in the middle, is one of the most popular destinations for tourists. This is especially so for those who want beaches and coves which are unusual and different, but above all quiet, even though this may mean they are less easy to access. Lovers of quiet beaches will know that the ones they like the best are the hardest to get to. The part of the coast- line farthest east of Malaga city is pro- tected as a natural beauty spot, the Acantilados de Maro (Maro cliffs). This protected area includes, for example, The beach at Cabopino, alongside the Artola dunes. :: SUR the Cala de la Doncella, which is idyllic and very well preserved, although to reach it you will need to go on foot or even by kayak from the adjacent beaches. It is only small, and is situated between what is known as the Peñón Quiet beaches del Fraile and Punta Caleta. Also in Nerja, but more accessible and better-known, is the Playa del Cañuelo, another jewel of the Acantilados de Maro area. Mind you, in peak season you and coves to cannot use your own vehicle to get there. You either have to walk or use a shuttle bus which runs continually be- tween the car park and the beach. This is escape to a way of preserving the beaches in this beauty spot. The Playa del Cañuelo is relatively large and is similar to many others in this area, in that the sea water is crystal-clear and the beach is of sand Even today, it is possible to find small and stones. Mediterranean paradises along the Further west, but still within the same area, is the Playa del Carabeíllo otherwise busy Costa del Sol Chico, which is very close to the famous and busy Burriana beach. It is a haven of peace for anyone who wants to enjoy a

14 BY THE SEA

Carabeíllo Chico beach near Nerja. :: E. C.

quiet day on the sand. The access In Malaga city, but on the east- is quite difficult and is from the ern side, is the Playa de Peñón del Burriana beach itself. It is a very Cuervo, which is well-known to small cove, surrounded by large rocks people in the province and else- which provide a certain privacy. where. Lying between El Palo and La In neighbouring , the Playa de Araña, this cove has a large rock right on Mazagarrobo, otherwise known as Tajo the shore. It isn’t always a haven of de la Virgen, is also popular. The latter tranquility, but it’s worth going on a name comes from a rock which, accord- weekday or outside peak season to en- ing to legend, is where the Virgen de las naturist campsite, just a short distance joy its ecosystem. In fact, in its waters Nieves (the patron saint of Torrox) once away from the beach. It should be you can see a plant which is in danger of appeared, to save some fishermen from noted, however, that not all the beach at extinction, the ‘siempreviva the village during a storm. Almayate is nudist. People are only al- malagueña’. The beach is just over one kilometre lowed to strip off in the stretch in the On the western side of the Costa del long and about 20 metres wide. Another Bajamar area, which is signposted as Sol, despite being better-known, there attraction of this cove is that its clear such. are some quieter beaches such as La Bu- waters are ideal for activities such as Meanwhile, Rincón de la Victoria has tibamba. This is in La Cala de , with snorkelling and diving. a particularly comfortable beach for its historical watchtower, the Torreón, On the coast at Vélez-Malaga there people who are looking for something which has now been converted into an are also several beaches to choose from. different, at Torre de Benagalbón. For interesting museum. Butibamba is a One of the coast’s few naturist beaches many, its charm is that there is no sea- quiet cove with fine sand and some can be found in Almayate, just one kilo- front promenade so it is quieter than more rugged areas. As well as spending a metre from Torre del Mar. It also has a other beaches in the same . day on the beach, a walk along part of

15 BY THE SEA

the new Coastal Path is also enjoyable. Further to the west is Cabopino beach, in Marbella. There, you can visit one of the geological treasures of the Mediterranean coast of Andalucía. This strip of coast is beside the natural monu- ment of the Dunas de Artola, a dune sys- tem which can be explored along wooden walkways. This beach, which also has a nudist area, is beside Cabopino marina, where there is a good selection of restaurants. Another interesting option in Mar- bella is Realejo, a small cove close to Los Monteros beach, which is one of those surprisingly peaceful corners of the The Mazagarrobo beach, in Torrox. :: J. A. western Costa del Sol. The fact that it is between two beaches which are very busy in high season, and its natural sur- roundings, make this one of the most interesting coves for those looking for peace and quiet in the summer. In neighbouring there is also plenty of choice, and one of the best is the beach at Bahía Dorada. The sea is crystal clear here, so it is a good place to take your goggles and snorkel and enjoy the marine fauna and flora. This beach is very close to the one called La Galera, in other words about eight kilometres west of Estepona town centre. The municipality of Casares has two kilometres of coastline, and its most fa- mous beach is Playa Ancha, which is ac- The Peñón del Cuervo beach near Malaga city. :: ÑITO SALAS tually in three different parts. One is the stretch beside the Torre de la Sal, also known as Salto de la Mora, a lovely watchtower which was part of a castle at one time. Next to this is Playa Chica, which goes as far as the Arroyo de la Parrilla stream. The third part, which is actually called Playa Ancha, is on the boundary with Manilva. This area has clear sea water, fine sand and some rugged areas, with rocks stretching out into the Mediterranean. It is a very unusual combination. Apart from the built-up areas, Manilva’s coastline is one of the most popular for those looking for something a bit different. As well as the beach called Chullera, there is also the envi- ronmentally valuable Playas de Manilva reserve, a small coastal paradise at the point at which the territory of Malaga comes to an end and that of the begins. A large part of the coast at Manilva is still very natural. :: J. A.

16 17 DIVERSITY

Equestrian School is now known all over the world. As a Foundation, it represents the iden- tity of equestrian art in Andalucía, espe- cially through the show ‘Como bailan los caballos andaluces’(’How the Andalusian horses dance’) which is a type of choreo- graphed equestrian ballet with dressage and carriage driving, quintessential Span- ish music and 18th century costumes. In the ‘doma vaquera’ section, the horseman rides his horse around the arena holding the reins in just one hand, trotting at first and then galloping, chang- ing the rhythm and performing pirou- ettes. Doma vaquera is similar to the style used by American cowboys herding cattle in wide open spaces, and although it is based on classical dressage it is much faster and dramatic. To demonstrate classical dressage tech- niques, the horses carry out exercises to pieces of classical music, with choreogra- phy titled The Colts, Airs on Horseback, A show at the Royal Andalusian Ecuestrian School in Jerez. Pas de Deux, Passage and Piaffe, Domino on Horseback, Airs above the ground and Fantasy, among others. The show also includes examples of Work In Hand, where the horse obeys its rider even when he or she is not in the The horses of saddle, carrying out classical Haute École dressage exercises such as levades, capri- oles, courbettes, piaffe, Spanish walk and long reins. It is also possible to visit other parts of Andalucía the school, and sometimes to watch some of the students training. For anyone wanting to understand the equestrian culture of Andalucía, a visit to You only have to mention the name of the School should not be missed. Com- this region, and the pulses of horse bine it with Jerez’s flamenco offering for lovers will start to beat faster the unique essence of Andalucía. Reales Caballerizas de Córdoba Anyone in the ancient and spectacular From spectacular equestrian lucía can both admire the animals at spe- city of Cordoba can also experience the schools to wild ponies, cial events or even enjoy the experience unrivalled beauty of Andalusian horses of riding along spectacular beaches or and learn about the connection between Andalucía’s love affair with its through glorious countryside. local history and its equestrian traditions ‘caballos’ goes back a long way. at the ‘Reales Caballerizas de Cordoba’. DEBBIE BARTLETT Equestrian art These Royal Stables, which were built The Royal Andalusian School of Eques- in the 16th century, are in the centre of trian Art is somewhere that will defi- Cordoba, beside the , the palace- The name Andalucía conjures up many nitely set the pulses of horse-lovers rac- fortress of the Christian Monarchs. images, and one is that of beautiful Anda- ing. It is in , in Cadiz The shows performed here never fail to lusian horses, an important part of local province, the town which is famous for impress. They are a perfect combination culture and history. Horse-lovers in Anda- its sherry and its flamenco, and the of classical and Andalusian horsemanship,

18 The unique beach horseracing in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cadiz) will go ahead on three days this August. including the ‘doma vaquera’ or western- the oldest, having taken place for around style dressage, mentioned above. 500 years. The horses are brought first to the village of El Rocío, where the famous International polo in Sotogrande pilgrimage takes place every spring, and Horses can also be seen in action in the then on to Almonte, where they are polo tournaments that are becoming tra- cleaned, re-shod and blessed by a priest. ditional in the luxury resort of Soto- Some are then sold, and the rest are re- grande, in San Roque, Cadiz province. turned to their idyllic life in the wild. Every August thousands flock to the in- ternational competitions at the Santa Circuito del Sol María Polo Club. Most of the best players This ‘Sunshine Tour’ is another very in the world have competed here at some popular event, this time in the beautiful time. While competitions planned earlier small town of in this year were cancelled due to the coro- Cadiz province. It is an international navirus pandemic, action returns to the show jumping competition which takes Sotogrande club this summer. place over a six-week period in February and March each year. The venue at De- Horse races on the beach hesa de Montenmedio is huge, covering For a very different experience, head to more than 500 hectares with space for the pretty town of Sanlúcar de Barra- 2,000 horses, and the facilities are the meda, in Cádiz province, in August. most spectacular in Europe. It is close to There, you can sit in a swimsuit on the the stunning beaches of Zahara de los golden sand in the evening sun, amid a Atunes, , Caños de Meca and Conil festive atmosphere, sipping the local Riding near , above, and de la Frontera, which are practically de- ‘manzanilla’ dry sherry and watching grazing on the Doñana marshes. serted at that time of year, and close to horses go thundering past at top speed. protected countryside. These races are world famous, and have been taking place since 1845. For Andalucía on horseback this 175th anniversary, despite the coro- Anyone who loves riding can enjoy some navirus pandemic, the races will go ahead magical experiences on horseback any- but just on three days, 18, 21 and 28 where in Andalucía, and there are nu- August. merous official ‘Andalucía a Caballo’ equestrian routes. From day excursions La Saca de Yeguas, Almonte to full holidays, along unspoiled beaches, Unfortunately, the Saca de Yeguas which through the mountains or deep in pro- normally takes place on 26 June had to be tected countryside, there is something cancelled this year because of the corona- for everybody and numerous companies virus pandemic, so next year’s event will are licensed to act as organisers and be awaited with eager anticipation. It guides. takes place in Almonte, in Huelva prov- And let us not forget that horses are an ince, in the emblematic countryside of important part of life for many Andalusi- the Doñana marshes, where the horses ans. Even without the chance to enjoy any live wild all year round. of the above, lovers of these fine animals This is considered the most impressive will always find them - and their proud equine event in Spain, and is also one of riders - at fairs, in parades, and at shows.

19 BY THE SEA

Travel secrets of the Costa de la Luz Enjoy wild nature, gourmet cuisine and broad beaches on Andalucía’s Atlantic Coast of Light

ANDREW FORBES of Andalucia. Don’t expect the typical Spanish coastal sprawl; no, this is a special It’s no mystery that I’m passionate about place where you can change the pace of Andalucía. I sometimes I feel like an un- your holiday. So, take it easy. Browse the official ambassador to be honest, such is surf shacks near ; enjoy a cold beer my enthusiasm for southern Spain, its on the weatherworn deck of a beach bar; nature, cuisine, history, and people. So, climb the sweeping sand dunes and be in- when I was invited to contribute to the toxicated by the freshness of the pine and SUR in English Summer’s Here maga- sea-scented air. zine, I knew I wanted to write about one of my favourite parts of the south - the Authentic lodging Costa de la Luz. I’m going to let you into a secret - Los This sparkling Atlantic coast of light, Caños de Meca. This small beach commu- that runs all the way from Huelva’s Río nity is a favourite with Spaniards. Once Guadiana down to the evocative port you pass the and reach town of Tarifa on Cadiz’s spectacular the Atlantic coast of Andalucía, you will coast is home to many of Spain’s best not want to leave. beaches. That’s why the Costa de la Luz So, if you’re looking for an authentic is my go-to place to chill and unwind. A place to stay, then Hotel Madreselva is it. place of wild nature, virgin beaches and In summer, the village of Los Caños de a laid-back surfer vibe that makes me Meca pulsates with life, a vibrant com- feel younger and freer. munity of locals and visitors who are So here I want to share a few secrets drawn to the ocean and beaches. Madre- of this Atlantic shoreline that runs along selva will be your calming oasis. Cadiz province, so you too can create un- The hotel is an intimate place. Built in forgettable holiday memories. a hacienda style, the comfortable rooms are found around a central, scented Road trip El Cuartel del Mar. :: FORBES courtyard patio filled with Mediterra- If you don’t have a car you’ll need to rent nean and sub-tropical plants. Each guest one to explore this windswept yet magi- ‘Cadizfornia’, a hip, cool yet open and room has a small private furnished ter- cal coast. The seaside roads meander friendly place for lovers of the outdoors. race, and a simple en suite bathroom through laidback villages and small tuna Maybe choose a vintage campervan or with shower and tub, and amenities fishing ports. Water sport aficionados rugged 4x4 for your Coast of Light road made with organic citrus essential oils. love the area, as the wind is channelled by trip. After all, you’ll be immersed in splen- Although you’ll probably head straight the proximity of the African and Euro- did isolation among remote nature, from to the beaches just across the street, pean continents, making it perfect for dense Atlantic and Mediterranean pine there is also a private pool in a walled kite surfing. Look out across the water forests, to sweeping beaches of massive patio if you want to find a more private from Tarifa towards and the ho- slow-moving dunes and crashing waves. place to sunbathe. rizon is often cluttered with colourful My first piece of advice is to take your When it comes to beaches you can kites of surfers who leap up into the air. time, allow for diversions, stops and un- take you pick; family, nudist, gay - it’s an Unsurprisingly it’s been christened expected discoveries. This is the wild west open and inclusive culture in Los Caños

20 The Costa de la Luz, where the Atlantic reaches Andalucía. :: FORBES de Meca - capturing the Ángel León’s remarkable three-Michelin- timeless appeal of an Andalu- star restaurant which showcases his sian summer. unique Cuisine of the Sea. Hotel Madreselva is man- Also, in nearby Jerez de la Frontera, aged by the friendly people Juan Luis Fernández, or JuanLu, has cre- who created La Casa de La ated his Lú, Cocina y Alma restaurant Califa, on the central plaza of which has been recognised with a Mich- the charming, nearby hilltop elin star, for his creative fusion of French town of Vejer de la Frontera. and Andalusian cuisine. You’ll be made to feel wel- More than any ingredient, it is proba- come and at home. bly the wild red tuna of the Costa de la If you’re enjoying a road Luz that defines the gastronomy here. trip along the coast, you’ll Caught during the almadraba season, us- appreciate the free, off-road ing sustainable techniques that date back hotel parking too; and if you to the Phoenicians, these magnificent love the sundowners at the animals inspire remarkably creative local beach terrace bars, don’t dishes. The port town of Barbate is where worry if you get back late, as there’s 24- Carabineros prawns at El Cuartel. :: FORBES most the of tuna are landed and it is here hour reception. one finds El Campero restaurant. Depend- Gastronomy ing on your mood, Cadiz province has emerged as a culinary and your budget, you destination, thanks to the exceptional can choose to dine on quality of local produce from the sea and an exquisite tasting land. Although far from being the richest menu in the formal part of Andalucía, this region has a dining room, or head wealth of fish, seafood, beef, and produce to the bar and try - and wines of course, including Vinos de some of the creative Jerez, or sherry, as they are better known. tapas of the day. Enjoy a chilled Manzanilla sherry wine with a tapa of fresh Atlantic prawns and Beachside bliss believe me, your notion of sherry will be This is where I shall changed for ever. share another secret Little wonder the Costa de la Luz has with you. For some- been the secret of success for chefs here. thing completely new, Aponiente, in El Puerto de Santa María, is Hotel Madreselva. :: FORBES then head to Chiclana

21 BY THE SEA

de la Frontera. This unpretentious, historic colleague Chef Mikel Badiola bring re- and also the scarlet Atlantic carabineros seaside town over looks magnificent nowned international expertise and crea- prawns. Cadiz also has excellent and beaches. It’s home to one of the coast’s tivity to Andalucía’s Atlantic shores. vegetables like plump tomatoes and arti- newest restaurants, El Cuartel del Mar, To make the most of the setting, I rec- chokes which feature in many dishes. Try boasting a spectacular setting beside an ommend starting your meal with a cock- the tasty ‘tortillitas de camarones’ ancient lookout tower, on the vast Playa tail in the patio. Mixologist Luca Anastasio (shrimp fritters) for a quick snack as you de la Barrosa. creates original and beautiful drinks - read the menu, or a place of gourmet Here hip urban style converges with the many of which can be prepared as low al- cured ham. If you are not tempted by the simplicity and authenticity of the Costa cohol drinks if you want something light fish, then there are the finest beef steaks del la Luz. It’s the most unforgettable and refreshing. from Scotland and Spain, prepared on the place to eat. Design, art, music, and cuisine At El Cuartel del Mar, the ocean is of wood-burning grill. collide to create a modern interpretation course the inspiration, and the local pro- The curated wine list inevitably includes of the Cadiz beach lifestyle. A once-aban- duce the protagonists in the restaurant’s vinos de Jerez. Let the wine waiter guide doned Civil Guard HQ has been reimag- menu. Expect exquisite fish and seafood, you to discover some superb, dry white ined as a super-stylish ocean view restau- including the local wild red tuna, wonder- sherries that perfectly complement the rant where Chef Manuel Berganza and his ful rice dishes with local white shrimps dishes. If you love discovering new things, then try one of the local Chiclana wines.

Naturally inspiring It’s not just the beaches and the food that will make you fall in love with this corner of Spain. Here are protected natural parks of pine forest and mountains too. It’s a joy to explore. For a real insider perspective, my secret is to hike with a local guide. Carlos Miburn has established Explore La Tierra, a private tour and hiking company. A speciality is nature hikes; Carlos shares insights into the rich biodiversity of the region. As you walk trails that hug the coast and explore the woodlands, you learn the secrets of the Mediterranean and Atlantic pine forests, including the edible and medicinal plants that can be La Breña Natural Park on the Costa de la Luz. :: FORBES found and their traditional uses. What’s more, you’ll enjoy an unforgettable time out in the great outdoors. So, here’s to you discovering some of your very own secrets of the Costa de la Luz - a place of authenticity; fab beaches; genuine hospitality; splendid cuisine; and calming nature.

INFORMATION

Hotel Madreselva: https://www.califavejer.com/ho- tels/hotel-madreselva

El Cuartel del Mar: https://elcuar- teldelmar.com/

Explore La Tierra: https://explore- latierra.com/en/ Los Caños de Meca. :: FORBES

22 23 DIVERSITY

Culture, history and fun on the Costa Tropical

Granada’s coastal towns and villages have plenty to offer tourists this year A view of La Herradura’s bay looking west

With the annual Jazz on the town has lots to offer visitors looking minibus service is in operation seven Costa festival confirmed, as well to learn more about the area. days a week until 10 September and a All three places are open from Mon- return ticket costs two euros. There is other cultural events and day to Saturday from 10am to 1pm and ample parking at the top of the cliff, watersports on offer, there is then from 5 to 7.30pm. This year the from where the minibus service runs town hall has introduced QR codes to approximately every 15 to 20 minutes. every reason to visit , access information about all three This picturesque beach is nestled in La Herradura and Salobreña sites via smartphones. between the cliffs of Cerro Gordo, JENNIE RHODES which sits between La Herradura in La Herradura and Cantarriján Granada province and the tiny coastal La Herradura beach and the protected hamlet of Maro in Malaga. cliffs of Punta de la Mona and Cerro It’s largely business as usual this year Gordo are great options for water- Salobreña on the beautiful Costa Tropical, with sports such as diving, snorkelling, The pretty town of Salobreña, a tradi- the annual Jazz on the Costa festival, paddle surfing and kayaking as well as tional whitewashed Andalusian vil- nights at the castle festival in La Her- just cooling off with a dip in the sea. lage, is perched high up on a hill and radura and Salobreña’s Tendencias fes- Tourist information offices in Al- offers views of both the Sierra Nevada tival all going ahead throughout July muñécar and La Herradura are provid- to the north and to and August. ing beach kits to establish the four- the south. With its narrow winding Other attractions such as the castle metre squared social distancing areas. streets and sea breezes it’s a great and museums are also open to visitors The Cantarriján naturist beach place to explore in the heat of the and of course the beaches of La Her- summer. radura and Cantarriján are the ideal lo- With extra lifeguards on hand this cations to cool down, or get active USEFUL WEBSITES year to province beach-goers with with watersports such as snorkelling health and safety information and or paddle surf, while enjoying Granada www..es plenty of cultural, historic and fun op- province’s stunning coastline. tions to choose from, a trip to the www.granadajazz.es Costa Tropical this summer is a must Culture, history and fun for anyone in the area. With the majority of its museums and www.ticketmaster.es historical sites open, including the A lively cultural scene San Miguel castle, Cueva de Siete Pala- www.granadaescultura.com As well as being a great outdoor alter- cios archaelogical museum and Claves native to the town’s beaches, Almuñé- de Almuñécar museum, the seaside car’s Majuelo park will, as it does

24 towards the protected Cerro Gordo cliffs. :: SUR San Miguel castle. :: SUR every year, play host to a number of festival on Saturday 25 will be Malaga from 6 to 9 August in the castle gardens. cultural events during the summer. singer-songwriter Pepa Niebla, who’ll Confirmations include flamenco singer- Perhaps the town’s most popular be presenting her new album Renais- songwriter Miguel Poveda on 8 August. summer festival is Jazz on the Costa, sance, and Andrea Motis, another Salobreña’s Festival de Tendencias, which now in its thirty-third year, great star of Spanish jazz music. now in its twenty ninth year, will take will take place from 22 to 25 July and The park will also be hosting a series place from 5 to 7 August in the Audito- feature some of Spain’s most talented of other concerts from Cuban to Fla- rio Villa de Salobreña. jazz musicians. menco and orchestral music through- For a break from the culture and his- Opening the festival on Wednesday out the summer. tory, the ideal way to cool down and 22 July will be the Costa Jazz Quartet, The Cultureando festival, which have fun on the Costa Tropical is a day along with the composer and winner runs on Friday and Saturday evenings at Almuñécar’s Aqua-Tropic water park. of Spanish Goya entertainment award, throughout July, is a series of free con- Located virtually on the beach and Chicuelo, who will be accompanied by certs and other events that will take overlooking the Mediterranean, it pianist Marco Mezquida. place on the streets and squares of Al- opened for the summer season at the Lucía Rey, Chano Domínguez and muñécar. end of June. The salt water attractions Javier Colina will also be performing La Herradura’s Noches en el Castillo include the Zig Zag and Kamikaze on different nights and closing the (nights in the castle) festival will run slides as well as the Black Hole.

25 HISTORY

Bobastro, the other king’s pathway Recent research sheds more light on the medieval remains

Rather than a Christian It is the same road that leads to the fa- of Umar Ibn Hafsun, a Christian who stronghold against the mous Caminito del Rey gorge-side walk- threatened the Umayyad splendour in Al- way near El Chorro. However just before a Andalus in the 9th and 10th centuries to Umayyad emir of Cordoba, sharp bend on the MA-5403, there is an- the point of shaking it to its foundations. recent research shows that the other, smaller road leading off, with a As the track continues up the moun- purple sign inviting you to visit Bobastro tain you can understand exactly why this ruins near El Chorro were the and take a camera with you. This is ex- medieval city was impregnable, and was headquarters for a civil war that actly what we intend to do, so we head the source of a civil war in a territory that Ibn Hafsun started in a bid to down a steep slope and then uphill for stretched from to the gates of about five kilometres in search of this Cordoba itself. When you get there, how- create his own dynasty thousand-year-old destination. This is in ever, the history interpretation that this FRANCISCO GRIÑÁN reality another Caminito del Rey, or was a Christian stronghold against the King’s Path, because it leads to the empire emirate becomes blurred, because it was

The part of the site that can be visited includes the incredible cave church with three naves and semicircular arches. :: FÉLIX PALACIOS Expert Francisco Marmolejo points to a wall built in a style that preceded Medina Azahara. :: F. P. actually more than that: it was To get an idea of the dimensions Umar Ibn Hafsun’s intention to cre- of that great city at the end of the ate his own state and his own dy- 9th century, you only have to go fur- nasty, but not for religious or patriotic ther down from the fortress and palace reasons as historians have often claimed to the basilica which has been excavated in their writings. Different aspects of Ibn from the rock and become the principal Hafsun, an apprentice tailor, and his po- icon of Bobastro. It is best to do this by car litical ambitions have begun to emerge. back because it is about two kilometres, and Many of his secrets are still buried on this to the end gives an idea of the great ‘madina’ built by mountain in the municipality of of the 9th century; it was the ‘cathedral’ Ibn Hafsun. and are yet to be unearthed. A city is wait- which legitimised the conversion of Umar Historical tradition has described him ing to be discovered. A city which is as un- Ibn Hafsun to Christianity, and also his as a Christian hero, feudal lord or descen- known as its creator, the man who power. And although the word ‘cathedral’ dent of the Visigoth aristocracy, and has wanted to reign. seems exaggerated if you look at this given a very idealised view of him in “Bobastro is an exception, because it is abandoned mountainous area with to- terms of religion and Hispanic patriotism, the only place where construction carried day’s eyes, Martínez Enamorado tells us but this is rejected completely by Arabist out by a few rebels reached the size of a that just over 1,000 years ago that church Martínez Enamorado, whose research has ‘madina’, or city,” explains historian and was the “episcopal headquarters” of this shed new light on Ibn Hafsun’s conflict researcher Virgilio Martínez Enamorado, new community that stretched through with Cordoba. who has been studying the site since the the Hafsuni dominions in Al-Andalus, and “What he really wanted to create was a mid-1990s and was the director of the last it was situated beside the palace of the as- ‘dawla’, an alternative dynasty to the excavation there in 2001. On that occa- piring emir in a city that covered an area Umayyads, but he had a problem of legiti- sion, the works revealed a church dating of nearly 60 hectares. macy because he wasn’t descended from

27 Umayyad craftsmen from Cordoba”. So Ibn Hafsun not only competed politi- cally with the caliphate, but also chal- lenged its constructive splendour to le- gitimise his power. Examples of the architectural style can be seen at the site and Marmolejo points them out to us. He says the technique used to extract the ashlars from the quar- ries at Bobastro would later also be seen at the fortified palace-city at Medina Aza- hara. He shows us the layout of the walls and says glazed ceramics have been Remains of the walls of buildings found there and are now in display at the beside the fortress at Bobastro. Inset, a National Archaeological Museum and the sculpture of Ibn Hafsun, and right, Museum of Malaga. fragments of ceramics found at the All these remains have a story to tell. site. :: F. P. / SUR They talk to us of an impressive city cre- ated by the man who aspired to be emir, Umar Ibn Hafsun, in a mountainous, al- the family of the prophet, so he sought most inaccessible area and from where this legitimacy by converting to Christi- he planned a series of operations over anity and forging alliances with foreign half of Andalucía which shook the foun- powers,” says Martínez Enamorado. He dations of the emirate of Cordoba. says it is clear that the creator of the tecture and of what was Bo- In the end, Bobastro didn’t fall Hafsuni lineage was acting in accordance bastro’s centre of power, the fortress and through the use of weapons, but with Muslim parameters and that “every- palaces inside the city walls. Nowadays through siege and isolation. Abd al-Rah- thing he did mirrored the Umayyads, be- these are covered by undergrowth and man III finally entered the city in the cause in reality he wanted to be like them there are no signs - they are on private year 928 and tore down the Hafsuni pal- and to take their place”. land - to indicate that this was once the ace, a symbol of challenge by this alter- This ability to play on political as well heart of Hafsuni power. native state which lasted for nearly half as religious ground is what made the re- Using data from excavations which a century. It was then that he was able bel Ibn Hafsun exceptional, and it is were carried out in the 1920s by Caye- to pronounce himself caliph, after the highlighted by Bobastro, the base from tano de Mergelina -the only ones to have siege of the madina of Malaga which he which he exercised his control in Al-An- been done on the fortification despite its led from the Talyayra fortress in nearby dalus. For this reason, Virgilio Martínez importance - this specialist in the his- Álora, where historian Virgilio Martínez uses two terms which sound somewhat tory of medieval law and archaeology Enamorado will soon be carrying out contradictory to define his character, looked at the Muslim culture from excavations to find out more about that describing him as “fascinating” and “an which Ibn Hafsun originated because, he episode. opportunist”. explains, “The architecture of the two Surveys he has carried out at the site “He is a polyhedral man who was born palaces in the fortress - the one built by show that much of Bobastro, where no Muslim, became Christian and finally the rebels and then another that the works have taken place for nearly two Shiite when he entered into an alliance Umayyad built over its ruins after it was decades, is still unknown. The construc- with all the Arab powers who opposed the demolished - are precursors to the build- tion of the Tajo de la Encantada reser- Umayyads of Cordoba,” says this histo- ings which would later be constructed at voir in the 1970s destroyed about 30 per rian, who is the author of a major work Medina Azahara [near Cordoba].” cent of this unique heritage. “But the about Bobastro called ‘Umar ibn Hafsún: This reinforces the view of Bobastro rest is still there to be excavated, which de la rebeldía a la Construcción de la as a place which was Muslim in appear- is an immense challenge from the re- Dawla’. It completely challenges the ance, rather than a stronghold of Chris- search point of view, but is promising widespread 19th-century view of him as a tianity. Marmolejo, who recently pub- for its future because of its possibilities Spanish proto-hero and Christian martyr. lished a paper on Ibn Hafsun’s fortified for tourism,” he says. palace which was included in the Inter- He also stresses how important it is Before Medina Azahara national Conference on Fortifications of for Bobastro to be included as part of the Further information about this enclave the Mediterranean Coast, says, “Here, Caminito del Rey’s application to be in Malaga province has also been re- they used to carve ashlars, sculpt mar- classified as a Unesco World Heritage vealed in the latest research by Francisco ble, tile floors, decorate walls and chan- Site. It would give it a new lease of life. Marmolejo, who has analysed the archi- nel water,” and this was “the work of And Ibn Hafsun would reign once again.

28 29 AXARQUÍA

A to Z of the Axarquía

the residents of El Acebuchal helped Re- From Acebuchal to Zafarraya, this part publican guerillas who were hiding from of Malaga is full of hidden treasures the Nationalists in the surrounding mountains. In 1949 General Franco em- barked on a final bid to rid the country of Strolling through the streets of ish . In more recent times remaining Republicans. His forces or- the Costa del Sol’s eastern- the Axarquía’s mountain villages have dered the residents of El Acebuchal out been home to some of Spain’s most noto- and they fled the hamlet, leaving their most towns and villages is the rious bandits and have witnessed one of houses and many of their belongings be- perfect way to learn about the greatest atrocities of Spain’s bloody hind. The Guardia Civil - the then Fran- Civil War. Nowadays the Axarquía is coist police force - used the village as a Andalusian history and culture well-known for its gastronomy and great base to hunt down remaining guerillas. JENNIE RHODES beaches, and is full of secrets that are The police eventually left and El Acebu- waiting to be discovered. chal was forgotten about and the houses Each one of the 31 towns and villages fell into ruin. In 1998, a couple from that make up the Axarquía has a story to Frigiliana saw the tourist potential of the tell. The rich cultural fabric of Malaga A place, started to buy up property and province’s eastern area dates as far back opened a restaurant. as the Neanderthal era and takes the visi- Acebuchal tor on a journey through the ages, which This tiny hamlet became known as ‘the includes Phoenician and then Roman ghost village’ between 1949 and 1998. Alfarnate is the highest village in the settlers, the Islamic period and the Span- During Spain’s Civil War, it is said that province and, standing at 925 metres above sea level, locals call the area the “Alps of Malaga”. Alfarnate is also famous for its cherries and spring is the best time to see the trees (cerezos) in blossom. Día de la Cereza (cherry day) is normally cele- brated in June.

Arenas The first things that hit you as you drive into Arenas are the colourful murals de- picting life in the town. Twelve cream and green plaques display quotes from traditional songs sung by the young peo- ple of the village, who in the past would gather at different locations to sing and dance circle dances and ‘coplas’, accompa- nied by the zambomba, a traditional Malaga instrument.

B Benaque Salvador Rueda is one of Andalucía’s best loved writers and poets. He was born in the small hamlet of Benaque, which be- longs to the Axarquía municipality of

El Acebuchal. :: SUR , on 2 December 1857. Rueda is quoted as saying that as “a A view of the ‘Alps of Malaga’ from Alfarnate village. :: JENNIE RHODES child in my poor house” he would “roam sixteenth-century copy of the Qur’an and at all hours around the fields, trying to another manuscript hidden in decipher the profound mysteries and straw and mud inside the wall of a house great marvels” and that he “learned ad- they were reforming. The originals were ministration from ants”. sent to Malaga University to be analysed As well as its connections with Rueda, and translated. also of note in Benaque are the church walls, which are covered in seventeenth century frescoes discovered by accident D in the early 2000s. Desbandá Every February, Malaga province sol- C emnly marks one of the bloodiest events of Spain’s Civil War; the Desbandá. On 8 Caleta February 1937, as Franco’s troops moved Caleta de Vélez is home to Malaga prov- into Malaga, Spanish, Italian and German ince’s biggest fishing harbour and ac- warships and planes opened fire on thou- counts for 50 per cent of all trawler fish- sands of civilians, among them women, ing. elderly people and children, who were Caleta harbour. :: J. RHODES trying to escape along the Malaga to Almeria coastal road (now known as the There is a small, family-run children’s N-340). Almeria was still considered safe clothes company based in Canillas de from Franco’s Nationalists as it was still Aceituno which has a link to the British controlled by Republicans. Thousands royal family. Mi Lucero made a little blue were injured or killed in the massacre. It cardigan which was worn by Prince is estimated that up to 150,000 people George and photographed by Hello! tried to flee Malaga in early February magazine as he left St Mary’s hospital 1937. with his dad, the Duke of Cambridge, af- ter visiting his newborn sister, Princess Charlotte, in 2015. It was when a client F in the London borough of Chelsea con- tacted the company to say that the cardi- Frigiliana gan had appeared in Hello! that they Frigiliana is home to Spain’s only work- learned about the royal connections. ing cane molasses factory; the Nuestra Señora del Carmen ‘ingenio’, as Cútar it’s known in Spanish. Although the area In 2003, Cútar resident, Miguel Lozano stopped growing sugar cane several years Ruiz, along with his son, came across a Frigiliana. :: SUR ago, Frigiliana’s ingenio has outlived its

31 AXARQUÍA

neighbours in Torre del Mar, Nerja and Maro, by importing the raw product from the Caribbean and in particular Cuba. The final product can be bought, not only in souvenir shops in Frigiliana, but in major supermarkets across Spain, and the dark, treacle-like syrup is highly revered lo- cally for its health benefits. It is perhaps more widely known, however, as an ac- companiment for deep fried aubergines The Cerro Gordo cliffs form the border between Malaga and Granada provinces. :: SUR (berenjenas fritas), a local delicacy. Frigiliana is also regularly voted one of mother, María Josefa, lived. There is also a ogordo, and Puente Don Manuel, Spain’s prettiest villages. disused playing cards factory and the all of which have cooperatives church, which is said to be haunted by where the ‘liquid gold’ is produced. Dur- the ghost of a poor young bride who died ing the olive-picking months (November G on her wedding day. to April), the cooperatives become hives of activity with olive growers queuing up Granada province Maroma to deposit their fruit, have it weighed and The Axarquía borders Granada province: La Maroma is the name of the mountain checked for its quality. to the north the Boquete de Zafarraya with the highest peak in Malaga mountain pass marks the boundary; and province. At 2,069 metres above sea level, to the east, the small coastal hamlet of she watches over the Axarquía. P Maro shares the Cerro Gordo cliffs with La Herradura, the first coastal village in Periana the west of Granada. N Legend has it that Periana got its name from two feuding families, both of whom Nerja wanted the village to be named after H The Nerja caves were discovered on 12 them: the Pereiro and Santana families. January 1959 by five local boys who had Eventually a deal was made to merge the Hotel Posada del Bandolero gone potholing in the area known as ‘La two to give the town its name - ‘perei’ Located near and owned by the Mina’. They are said to have removed and ‘ana.’ The town’s coat of arms bears town hall, the Hotel Posada del Ban- some stalactites, only to discover an the words ‘ni Pereiro ni Santana’, mean- dolero is the birthplace of El Bizco de El enormous cave littered with skeletons ing neither Pereiro nor Santana. The vil- Borge, one of nineteenth century Anda- and ceramic pots. They ran home to tell lage is also known for its peaches. lucía’s most notorious bandits. The hotel their families and friends and a later visit also has a fascinating museum of ban- by scientists really unearthed the enor- ditry (not to be confused with the Anti- mity and importance of the boys’ discov- R gua Venta de Alfarnate, which also has a ery. There is a sculpture commemorating museum of banditry and is also well the five at the entrance to the caves. The Rincón de la Victoria worth a visit to try the local food and caves are open to visitors. More of the area’s history is revealed in learn more about the Axarquía’s bandole- More recently, in the early 1980s, the Cueva del Tesoro (treasure cave). Dis- ros). Nerja became famous in Spain and inter- covered in 1951 by Manuel Laza, this is nationally thanks to the huge success of the only marine cave open to the public the television series Verano Azul, which in Europe. Historical artefacts from Neo- M was filmed there. There are a number of lithic to Islamic ceramics were found in reminders of the programme, such as the cave and legend has it that Muslim Macharaviaya streets named after characters, a statue of emperor, Tasufin Ibn Ali, hid treasure in Bernardo de Gálvez, born in 1748, is a ‘Chanquete’ the fisherman in the tourist it. The cave is free to visit from Monday much celebrated historical hero in office and the Verano Azul park which is to Friday, 10.30am to 11.30am and visits Macharaviaya and in Pensacola in Florida, home to his boat. cost 4.65 euros for adults at other times. USA, for leading the battle of Pensacola Tickets can be bought online. and liberating the city from the English during the American War of Independ- O ence in 1781. A stroll around the village S will bring the visitor to a number of land- Olive oil marks linked with the De Gálvez family, A number of Axarquía towns are well- including the house where Bernardo’s known for their olive oil, in particular Ri- Sayalonga claims to have the Axarquía’s

32 narrowest street - Callejón de la Alcuza - which measures just 56 centimetres wide at its narrowest point and is off the central Calle Cristo. The village’s most famous fountain, Fuente del Cid is where, as legend has it, the legendary Castilian military leader, El Cid, drank from when he passed A rainbow over La Viñuela reservoir. :: J. RHODES through the village. lector in Andalucía. Casa Cervantes is now home to the town’s official language According to legend any young unmar- school (Escuela Oficial de Idiomas). ried woman who drinks from the vil- lage’s Fuente del Chorillo will marry Viñuela soon after. On the other side of the road, La Viñuela is not just the name of one of visitors are greeted by the statue of an the Axarquía’s most popular villages emigrant. He is carrying a suitcase and among foreign residents, but also the the statue was inaugurated in 2017 to pay name of the large reservoir that supplies tribute to the many men of Sedella who most of the area with drinking water and were forced to leave their families in water for agriculture. search of work during the last century. The men typically found employment in Germany or Switzerland and sent money Y home to their families, returning only for Christmas or for the village’s annual feria Yacimientos Fenicios in August. The Axarquía area has numerous remains dating back to when the Phoenicians set- tled along the Malaga coastline. Yaci- T miento means settlement in Spanish. The Río Algarrobo is home to the Phoenician Totalán tombs of Trayamar, which were discov- According to a local legend, as the Catho- ered in the mid 1960s. Many items were lic King and Queen, Ferdinand and Isa- Cervantes statue in Vélez-Málaga. :: J. R. salvaged and can be seen in the Museo Ar- bela, reached Totalán in 1483 during the queológico in Malaga. The remains of a Reconquista, a violinist played his instru- Phoenician settlement at Los Toscanos ment from the top of the village tower to can be seen on the Gran Senda de Malaga warn its then Moorish inhabitants of the hiking route at the mouth of the Vélez imminent attack. The tower still stands river near the village of Almayate. and a mosaic plaque showing a violin is displayed on a wall next to the tower, explaining the legend. Z

Zafarraya V In 1983 a jaw and other bones belonging to a Neanderthal were discovered in Vélez-Málaga caves near Zafarraya, which is famous for It is well documented that Miguel de its ‘boquete’ or ‘hole’ in the mountains Cervantes wrote about Vélez-Málaga in on the border of Malaga and Granada his famous novel, Don Quixote. In chap- provinces. The discovery of Zafarraya ter 41 he writes; “Thanks be to God, sirs, Man, as he is known, has helped scien- for bringing us to such good quarters; for, tists and archaeologists to ascertain that if I do not deceive myself, the ground we Neanderthals living in Andalucía lived stand on is that of Vélez Malaga.” longer than their contemporaries in The quote is written in calligraphy on other parts of Europe. Zafarraya was also Calle San Francisco, outside the Casa Cer- the last stop on the train from Malaga, vantes, where the writer is believed to known as La Cochinita, which was pulled have stayed during his time as a tax col- A plaque outside the Nerja caves. :: J. R. from service in the 1960s.

33 HISTORY

The heritage that never sees natural light

Bullón Lobato. Malaga province is home to During excavation works, pieces of ce- over 20 caves of important ramics from the period were discovered, and a pendant representing the goddess geological or archaeological value Venus. The wall paintings include ani- mals, and in some cases they appear to be superimposed on top of others in differ- the country, such as La Pileta, Ardales and ent colours. JAVIER ALMELLONES Nerja. The others may be less well- As well as La Pileta, Benaoján is also known, but that doesn’t mean they are home to the Cueva del Gato, which is any less important, even though, in some both of archeological interest and also a There is a hidden heritage in Malaga prov- cases, they are in the form of natural great attraction for pot-holing enthusi- ince, one which never sees natural light: overhanging rock and served as rudimen- asts. It is situated in the Sierra de its caves. In some cases, these were the tary protection for the first people to in- Grazalema natural park. homes of the very first inhabitants, back habit the province. The Cueva del Gato has been formed in Prehistoric times, and are therefore of In Benaoján, we find the Cueva de la by an underground river, the Gaduares, great historical importance, while others Pileta, whose interior contains extraordi- which merges with the Guadiaro a few are considered true geological treasures. nary wall paintings dating back to the metres further down. The river runs for This part of Spain can boast having nu- Upper Paleolithic period. The cave, which over four kilometres within the cave merous caves within its territory, includ- is currently privately owned, was discov- system. ing some which are the best-known in ered in 1905 by a local labourer, José The aforementioned river, which is also known as the Campobuches, con- nects with the Hundidero cave, which is in the municipality of . This The entrance to cave, which is surprising because of its the Cueva de los high entrance (about 50 metres), is Órganos, in the linked to the Cueva del Gato via a com- Sierra de la plex subterranean system. Camorra. :: RICARDO PASTOR Extraordinary cave paintings In the Guadalteba area, the Ardales cave, situated in the village of the same name, contains wall paintings from the So- lutrean era (20,000 years BC), important Neolithic remains (3,800 years BC) and several burial sites from the Chalcolithic period (2,700 years BC). This is the only archaeological site in Malaga to have been included in the Pre- historic Rock Art Cultural Route of Coun- cil of Europe. There is plenty of justifica- tion for this, because here one can see hands painted with the aerographic tech- nique and signs created with fingers, which are present in only a very few sites in the world. La Cueva de la Victoria is little known as access is restricted. :: PEDRO CANTALEJO

The Cueva de Belda, in the Sierra Norte Malaga, the best-known of all is the one try. The chambers that are open to the area of Malaga, was also inhabited during in Nerja, which is also the most-visited. It public cover over 9,000 square metres, the Prehistoric period. It is in the munici- is situated close to the nearby village of which is approximately one third of the pality of , in the Maro. It was discovered by accident by a total of the cave. area north of the Sierra del Camorro. In group of youths in 1959 and since then it Apart from its spectacular geological this mountain range, there is a fault has been the scene of intensive research. formations - stalactites and stalagmites - which is classified as a Natural Monu- Some parts of it are open to the public. it is playing an important role in discov- ment of Andalucía because of its geo- The route around the interior of the ering more about Prehistory, because or- graphical value. Nerja Cave is 4,823 metres in length, ganic remains which are associated with Among the most outstanding caves of making it one of the biggest in the coun- the paintings have been found and they

35 Nerja Cave is one of the biggest in the country; the long visitor route is still only a third of the cave’s total size. :: SUR date back 42,000 years. This means it could be one of humanity’s first ever art galleries. Also in the Axarquía region is the Cueva del Tesoro, in the municipality of Rincón de la Victoria. Located in the area known as El Cantal, this cave, which was inhabited by prehistoric man, is a geo- logical jewel, because it is believed to be the only cave of marine origin in Europe. In fact, it has been the action of the Mediterranean and its erosive effect that has contributed through thousands of years - since the Jurassic period - to the formation not only of this cave but also others which are below El Cantal. Excavations of the interior have re- vealed numerous human and animal re- mains as well as ceramics from the pe- riod known as Cave Neolithic. Among its The Cueva del Gato in Benaoján is classified as a natural monument of Andalucía. :: J. A. most important chambers are those called La Virgen, El Volcán, Marco Craso Cueva de los Órganos. With a depth of Torcal’, a small carved stone which bears and Noctilucia. The latter owes its name about 100 metres and a route covering a very close resemblence to the emblem to the discovery of a shrine dedicated to one kilometre inside, this cave attracts of this protected area, a rock known as El the Phoenician goddess of the same numerous potholers, especially begin- Tornillo which was one of the first natu- name. ners, because it is one of the least diffi- ral monuments to be classified as such in Also in El Cantal, where the Cueva del cult to access. Andalucía. Tesoro is located, there are other impor- There are no prehistoric wall paintings Apart from those mentioned here, tant caves such as El Higuerón and La in the interior, but there are indications Malaga province has other caves and Victoria, where access is highly re- that inhabitants of the area have known shelters which are very important, ei- stricted to prevent it deteriorating. A about the cave for centuries. In fact, ther because of their geological value or replica of part of it can be seen, however, there are some paintings which were archaeological value or both, such as Las in the Parque Arqueológico del Medi- done in the 18th century. According to Grajas (Archidona), El Boquete de Zafar- terráneo, where visitors can see some of local legend, this cave was used at one raya (Alcaucín), Las Peñas de Cabrera the valuable wall paintings from the Pa- time by the bandit known as El Tempra- (), the overhangs of the leolithic era (Solutream period) which nillo, who died not far from there. Complejo Humo (La Araña, Málaga), the were discovered in the cave. At El Torcal, in , the Cueva chasm of Las Palomas (), the caves Among the many grottos and caves in del Toro was inhabited 7,000 years ago of La Fuensanta and La Excéntrica the Sierra de la Camorra, most of them in and we know that because among dis- () and that of El Gran Duque , the most outstanding is the coveries made there is the ‘Venus del (Casares), among many others.

36 37 BY RAIL

Guadalhorce Valley by train The C-2 local rail line connects Malaga with several interesting inland towns

For those who enjoy hiking, this Malaga’s strongest cultural expressions. is a beautiful, almost unspoilt While strictly speaking a district of Malaga city, Campanillas is an agricul- area surrounded by sprawling tural town in it own right. In the 19th countryside planted with olive, century, 80 per cent of the population was made up of day labourers and farm- citrus, and almond groves, and ers who cultivated the muscat grape va- all reachable by the local train riety for the production of raisins and TONY BRYANT wine. Campanillas wines became highly appreciated and supplied the town with much of its revenue. However, the phyl- A decorative welcome to . Anyone wanting to escape the hubbub of loxera plague severely affected this busi- the coast this summer will discover ness and it did not recover until well into plenty of undisturbed white villages the 20th century. (pueblo blancos) nestled in the area of the Valley. Some of these Sierra de Cártama places are impossible to reach without Famed for producing what some say is transport, but there are many that can be the best morcilla (black pudding) in accessed by train. The Cercanias C-2 sub- Spain, the sprawling white town of Cár- urban line makes travelling around tama stands alongside the Guadalhorce Malaga province relatively easy and cost river. A spectacular iron bridge known as efficient. The line connects Malaga with the Puente Verde, or Puente de Hierro several interesting inland towns. The 38- (built between 1927 and 1931), spans the kilometre-route through the Guadal- river and connects the main town with horce River Valley begins at Malaga-Cen- Estación de Cártama. The whole area is tro-Alameda, then passes through the overlooked by the Espartales and Llana Malaga-Maria Zambrano Station and Vic- Mountains, collectively known as the Si- toria Kent, the old San Andrés station. erra de Cártama. The train then heads north using the Throughout the ages, Cártama, has Malaga-Cordoba line, stopping at Los been a border town which has seen the Prados, Campanillas, Cártama/Aljaima, settlement of Celts, Romans and , and terminates in Álora. For all of which have left a lasting impres- those who like to hike, this is a beautiful, sion on the district. The Celts, who almost unspoilt area, surrounded by named the settlement Carth, favoured sprawling countryside planted with ol- the area for its rich mines. The town later ive, citrus and almond groves. became Cartima under the Roman occu- Situated in the Malaga city district of pation, and, finally, during Muslim rule, Cruz de , Los Prados adheres took its current name of Cártama. to its own idiosyncrasies and has upheld Cártama is made up of many districts, in- Palace of the Counts of Puerto certain traditions and social customs, es- cluding Cártama Pueblo, Estacion de Hermoso, Pizarra. ::T.B. pecially the verdiales folk music, one of Cártama (originally a railway station

38 the unmistakable landscape of La Hoya Montes de Málaga. Other monuments of interest in Cár- tama are the recently refurbished Ro- Álora is one of the most beautiful ‘pueblos blancos’ in the Guadalhorce. :: T. B. man arch in the area known as Santo Cristo; and La Cruz de Humil- ladero, a forged iron cross at- tached to the top of a second century marble column. The cross was installed in 1752 and has now been incorporated into the town’s heraldic crest. Traditional tapas bars and restaurants offer dishes typi- cal of Cártama. Recommended are asparagus soup, gazpacho and the array of pork prod- ucts, especially chorizo and blood sausage.

Pizarra An inland farming commu- nity, Pizarra has managed to The C2 train at Pizarra station. Right, Aljaima station. :: SUR retain much of its old charm by avoiding excessive development. The town dates to 1483, being largely neglected by the Romans and Moors. The reason behind the lack of interest in the area before- hand was the position of a huge, unstable rock known as the peñasco (which was more than 5,000 cubic metres in volume and weighed almost 3,000 tonnes) that forever threatened to come crashing down. The rock continued to threaten those brave enough to live beneath it un- til 1988, when, after showing signs of cracking, the authorities finally blew it up.

Home of Hollander American painter Gino Hollander, who lived in Pizarra during the 1960s. Best Puente Verde, Cártama. :: SUR known for his abstract representations of the human body, landscapes and built in 1865), Doña Ana and Estación de of reverent pilgrimage for devout locals. bulls, Hollander amassed an array of ar- Aljaima, to name a few. The train station It is perched high above Cártama’s twist- cheological artefacts while living in Pi- at Aljaima, which is the stop after Cár- ing streets and can be reached by climb- zarra, which included Iberian jewelry, tama, is considered the most attractive ing the winding path from the main Roman and Moorish pottery and con- on this route. square near the 19th century white mar- temporary rural and farm im- There are two main religious temples ble fountain known as La Fuente de Pilar plements. When he eventually left in Cártama Pueblo. Situated in Plaza de Alto. In 2007, a small museum dedicated Spain to return to America, he donated la Constitución, the Iglesia de San Pedro to the Virgin was opened next to the the collection to the local authorities, Apóstol, which bears the date 1502, is shrine. who converted a disused farm complex built on the site of a former mosque. The into the Hollander Museum. Although other is the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Interesting monuments the museum no longer bears Hollander’s los Remedios (Our Lady of Good Reme- A further climb up from the shrine leads name, one of its two rooms includes nu- dies). This chapel is dedicated to the to the crumbling 10th century Moorish merous examples of his paintings. At- town’s patron saint and it is still a focus castle, which offers spectacular views of tached to the museum is a small restau-

39 rant serving a variety of local cuisine. Pizarra has numerous interesting temples and monuments that are worth visiting and these include the Church of San Pedro, the Palace of the Counts of Puerto Hermoso, and the convent of the Sisters of the Cross, all of which are lo- cated in the centre of the town. However, much of the Pizarra’s most impressive sights are located on the out- skirts of the town, where irrigated low- lands abundant with citrus and other fruit trees offers a beautiful natural envi- ronment, perfect for lovers of the great outdoors. Traces of prehistoric settle- ments have been found in the municipal- Looking down on Cártama. :: SUR ity, along with an archaeological site con- taining tombs from the Mozarab period. series of steep slopes and attractive cobbled Other findings of this nature include the streets that converge on the main square Roman baths, commonly known as El (Plaza Baja). The main feature of the square Bañadero de la Reina (The Queen’s Bath). is the huge seventeenth century Church of A pleasant walk that takes about 45 La Encarnación, built by the Catholics when minutes from the town centre along a they retook the town in the 15th century. steep, winding rocky path will lead to Álora has plenty of cultural impor- the shrine of Nuestra Señora de Fuen- tance: as well as its association with the santa. Partly excavated into the rock, verdiales and flamenco, it was home to the temple was built on the foundations the Miguel de Cervantes between 1587 of a 10th century Mozarab church. The and 1593, as the plaque on the house at present shrine, which boasts impressive the northern end of the square reveals. baroque plasterwork, was built in the Leading away from the church, another 16th century, although it was restored abrupt ascent will lead to the Plaza Ar- in the20th century. The temple houses riba and the castle: here one will enjoy the image of Our Lady de Fuensanta, the panoramic views of the Guadalhorce patron of Pizarra. Álora’s Moorish fortress . :: T. BRYANT river basin.

Last stop On arrival in Álora, the final stop of the journey, those with mobility problems might prefer to take the local bus (1.55 euros) from the train station to the village centre to avoid the three-kilometre uphill walk. The train station is quite picturesque and the Bougainvillea-covered station mas- ters’ house gives the impression of post- card Andalucía. Álora is situated just 12 kilometres south of El Chorro, so the surrounding landscape is ideal for hiking. From a distance, Álora is a typical ‘pueblo blanco’ nestled between three rocky spurs topped by the ruins of a magnificent castle. The castle was first built by the Phoenicians and later ex- panded by the Romans. The fortress was destroyed by the in the fifth cen- tury, and then rebuilt by the Moors one century later. The climb up to the village consists of a Iglesia de San Pedro is located in the centre of Pizarra. :: SUR

40 BY RAIL

The scenic route to Seville

simply chill out and enjoy lunch at The Malaga-Seville railway line offers a one of the lakeside restaurants. multitude of spectacular destinations Osuna and architecture Another spectacular destination on Situated in the province of Chorro. this route is Osuna, a town that offers This is a popular destination for some of the most beautiful civil archi- Seville, Osuna and Marchena rock climbers and hikers seeing as it is tecture in Andalucía. boast some of the most located close to the Los Gaitanes Expect to become seduced by this Gorge. picturesque town, as a wander around stunning civil architecture in This is the stop to get off for the the old barrio is like stepping back in Andalucía Caminito del Rey (King’s pathway), a time. TONY BRYANT breathtaking cliff-side walkway hang- Declared by Unesco as one of Spain’s ing 100m above the Guadalhorce most beautiful streets, the steeply de- River. scending Calle San Pedro boasts some Known as ‘the scariest path in of the most luxurious palaces in Os- Spain’, it is extremely popular with una, the most spectacular of which is The Renfe Malaga-Seville line offers tourists, although it is most definitely the former collegiate chapter house at the adventurous traveller a chance to not for the faint-hearted or those who number 16. discover some delightful destinations. suffer with vertigo. The train runs approximately every Hikers will enjoy the many trails Andalusian patios three hours from the María Zambrano that wind around the spectacular Take the opportunity to admire the Station. gorge, while those who like to swim beautiful secluded patios, abundant should head to the crystal-clear waters with flowers, hanging plants and cool- The Caminito by train of the reservoirs. ing water features, because Andalusi- The first interesting stop on the Here visitors can rent paddle boats ans are proud of their patios and are Malaga section of the route is El and kayaks, fish for carp and bass, or generally welcoming to visitors. BY RAIL

The geographical centre of Osuna is Marchena Plaza Mayor, and from here, all the Surrounded by olive groves and fields town’s most important attractions can of cereal crop, Marchena, the stop af- be accessed. ter Osuna, is a town of historic, archi- Most visitors make a beeline for the tectural and cultural importance. colligate church, which sits at the The town’s art museum, located in highest point of the town. The bas-re- the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, is lief above the west portal is badly named after Spanish artist Zurbarán, damaged: if we are to believe English who received patronage from the lords travel writer Richard Ford, the damage of Marchena in 1634. was caused by French soldiers who The 15th century Gothic-Mudéjar used it for target practice during the church displays a collection of Zur- Peninsular War. barán’s paintings (the most notable is The interior houses a magnificent the Immaculate Conception), as well collection of religious art, and of in- Visitors on the Caminito del Rey. :: REUTERS as a set of 15th century liturgical terest is the sixteenth century organ, one of the surviving few of its kind in Andalucía. However, the highlight of the visit is the descent to the spectacular pan- theon and chapel of the Dukes of Os- una. The crypt takes the form of a tiny church and is decorated with spec- tacular Renaissance art. Behind the church is one of Osuna’s most spectacular buildings, the Uni- versity of the Immaculate Concep- tion, a rectangular, turreted building organised around an arcaded court- yard. Another popular attraction is El Coto Las Canteras, a 2,000-year-old rock quarry that has been converted into a concert hall and auditorium. Osuna’s spectacular university. :: T. B.

Plaza Mayor in the town of Osuna. :: SUR miniature books and a splendid Epistle organ. A popular tourist attraction is the Arco de Rosa, a 15th century door in Marchena’s defensive wall. The arch is associated with an old legend that claims the name relates to a Moorish princess who threw roses over the wall to her forbidden Chris- tian lover.

Majestic attraction One of the town’s unusual attractions is the phalanx of storks that nest in the towers of Marchena’s many old churches. The train station is situated outside the town centre, so be prepared for a good walk into the centre, but remem- ber to look up: the sight of one of these majestic creatures gliding over- A view of the church of head adds an extra charm to this dor- San Agustín in Marchena. mant old town.

43 LIFESTYLE

Cool homes

with colour and vitality, making it feel Ideas to beat the heat indoors when the cooler. If you have a balcony or terrace, temperatures start to rise outside you can use climbing plants, which are essential to protect the outside wall from the sun’s rays. Indoors, plants such Your choice of plants, fabrics difference they can make. as ferns, chamaedora and kentia palms and lighting can make a will help to maintain a more uniform Adapt living space for summer temperature and they also purify the air. difference when it comes to Firstly, everyone should adapt the deco- keeping your home cool in ration of their home for the summer. Just Lighting and temperature as we change our warm winter clothes Can lighting have an effect on the tem- the summer for cool summer ones, homes also need perature in a home? Of course it can, and SUR IN ENGLISH to be able to breathe easily. that is nothing new. But have you ever It is a good idea to swap soft furnishings thought about changing your light bulbs at this time of year: for example, if you along with the season? As you know, tra- In the summer months there are al- have thick rugs and curtains in the living ditional light bulbs tend to give off more ways days, or sometimes even weeks, room, change them for thinner, cooler heat than LED ones, and LED bulbs are when the weather is hotter than nor- ones in pale colours. also much more energy-saving. They mal, and when that happens it is im- Blinds are a good idea for windows, because won’t help to increase the temperature, portant to know how to keep your their height can be adjusted to keep out the which is already far too high for many home as cool and comfortable as possi- sun. people’s liking in summer. ble. Habitat Inmobiliaria has come up With regard to bedding, swap a cover made with some helpful ideas about how to from thick fabric for a finer one such as linen. Windows and doors do so. Another tip is to avoid dark colours for bed Windows are another important ele- Obviously, air conditioning is one of linen, because they tend to concentrate more ment when trying to stop the heat the main ways of keeping houses and solar light. coming into a home. Most of the heat apartments at the most comfortable comes through the windows, so they temperature, but many homes don’t Plants and gardening also need to be the way we protect our- have air con. If yours is one of them, Plants are very useful in absorbing heat selves from it, with shutters, blinds try these ideas instead and see what a in a home and they also fill the space and curtains. One very good option is to use cross- ventilation: open the doors, to let fresher air from shady areas come into sunnier ones.

Fans and other domestic appliances No, we haven’t forgotten one of the most effective solutions: fans and other domestic appliances that help to keep a home cool. Do remember to disconnect appliances which aren’t in use; that is important. For example, TVs, comput- ers, mobile phones etc help to raise the temperature as well as wasting energy. It might seem unimportant, but the en- vironment will be grateful. And finally, another very basic but ef- fective recommendation is to wash your floors, patio or terrace down with cold water and you will notice how much cooler it feels afterwards. 45 GIBRALTAR

A meander along the Mediterranean Steps A trail created on the in the 18th century is now a popular walking route with spectacular views World War 2 bunkers, spooky military tunnels and breathtaking views of Africa are just some of the highlights of the Rock’s most famous walk SUR IN ENGLISH

For those who love combining a good hike with a history lesson, Gibraltar’s Mediterranean Steps are a must-see if you’re planning to visit the Rock. The trail was created back in the 18th century by the British to allow soldiers to visit the various military defence posts on the Southern end of Gibraltar. And since being refurbished and made safe in 2007, the Med Steps have become increasingly popular with both locals and tourists alike. Unrivalled views of the eastern side of the Rock and the Costa del Sol. :: A. B. Located entirely within the Upper Rock Nature Reserve, the walk can that you may come across Gibraltar’s take anything between an hour and most famous residents along the way, three hours to complete, depending the Barbary macaques, so be aware on how much you explore along the that if you have food in your bag, they way. may try and grab it! It’s important to point out that tho- The walk starts at Jews Gate Ceme- se with a fear of heights may not tery, alongside one of the legendary appreciate some parts of this giddy Pillars of Hercules, which is 180 me- path, which clings to the eastern side tres above sea level. of the Rock. However, there are plenty of sturdy A glimpse of Africa rope handrails and the walk is safe. From here you walk through some In addition, those who are not in dense trees and bushy vegetation, be- good shape will struggle with the fore the path opens out to reveal some steeper parts of this hike. spectacular views of the southern tip Another important point to note is One of the oldest surviving structures. :: A.B. of the Rock, and North Africa.

46 Continue along the eastern side of the Rock, following a well trodden path, with the Costa del Sol coming into view in the distance. After about 15 minutes you start climbing a steep set of steps that lead to the Goat’s Hair Twin Caves. Originally sea caves, they are now 190 metres above sea level and got their name from the goatherd who li- ved there in the 19th century. Interestingly, excavations during the 1970s revealed that prehistoric man had also once inhabited them. Around about this point you may catch a glimpse of the very rare Bar- bary Partridge if you’re lucky!

Stairs and batteries Moving on from here you pass a World War 2 military building, before wal- king through a tunnel to arrive at a number of fortifications and bunkers. Douglas Path is on a knife-edge ridge. :: A. B. And just a little further on, there is a viewing platform that of the oldest surviving structures at offers some extraordinary the top of the Rock. photo opportunities of the This path ends at the Skywalk, whe- eastern side of the Rock re you can stand on a glass viewing and the Costa del Sol as far platform 340 metres above sea level as Marbella. and enjoy 360-degree views of Spain From this point the path and Africa. gets steeper and as you You can then soldier on north up to look up you can see your fi- the Top of the Rock Cafe for a well de- nal ascent zig-zagging up a served refreshment break. flight of lime cut stairs. If by now you’ve had your daily dose You’ll pass a few more of walking, you can opt to take the ca- World War 2 bunkers befo- ble car back down to ground level. re arriving at the summit However, for those who want to (421 metres), where you’ll walk down, there is an interesting find the impressive Lord Airey’s and Lord Airey’s Battery. :: A. B. tunnel almost hidden from public O’Hara’s Batteries, which are well- view underneath worth exploring. the restaurant called The Med Steps officially end here, Bellman’s Cave that but you can add on a little bit more if is well-worth a you’ve still got some energy left. quick look (note - One popular route is to head you will need tor- towards Douglas Path, which takes ches as this is huge you to some more World War 2 bun- inside and pitch kers and breathtaking views of the black in places). eastern side of the Rock. From here you can re-trace your steps Skywalk and refreshments back to the Charles The path itself goes along a knife-edge V Wall to make your ridge where you can see the Great Gi- way down to the braltar Sand Dune, which covers a lar- Windsor Suspension ge part of the eastern slope, and an old Bridge or the Apes’ circular stone building, which is one The end of Bellmen’s cave. :: A. B. Den: just follow the signs.

47 GIBRALTAR

Gibraltar arguably the most densely forti- fied place in Europe and helped protect the Rock from countless sieges. So formidable were these defences that the Spanish called the approach to Gibral- tar ‘La Garganta del Fuego’, or in English, ‘The Throat of Fire’. However, since the end of World War 2, the area had largely fallen into disrepair, with people using it to dump their rubbish. But in 2015 the government started clearing and beautifying the area, remo- ving over 5,000 tonnes of rubbish over the past five years. Thanks to this colossal cleanup, large sections of the earlier fortifications, 18th century defences and World War 2 tun- nels can now be safely visited by the pu- blic. It’s now hoped that these impressive defences will become Gibraltar’s most The King’s Lines have now been cleared after years of neglect. :: A. B. eye-catching and impressive tourist attraction. As well as historical tours, the Gibraltar Government is also considering the com- plete rejuvenation of this area. Although it is possible to explore the The Northern area without a guide, it is easy to get lost in the labyrinth of tunnels, as many are pitch black inside. One local resident who gives historical walks of the defences is Peter Jackson Defences MBE. Peter, 59, an ex-serviceman who is ori- ginally from Yorkshire and retired from the services in 2017, has been taking inte- This overlooked part of Gibraltar is rested parties around the defences for the the “unpolished gem” of the past 25 years. He told SUR in English: “The Northern Rock’s historical tourist sites Defences are the unpolished gem in Gi- braltar’s historic tourist sites. “To get a full interpretation of defensi- SUR IN ENGLISH in some places over many centuries. ve structures there’s no better place to see The Moors started the defences and them then the Northern Defences. over the years successive layers of fortifi- “The tour is enjoyable at all levels from cations were added by the Spanish. the layman to the military enthusiast.” It’s an area of Gibraltar that many tourists However, the most notable deve- The Lower Northern Defences essen- have never heard of - let alone visited. lopment of the defences took place after tially consist of the King’s Lines, Queen’s But hidden just above Casemates Squa- the British and Dutch forces took Gibral- Lines and Prince’s Lines - including the re in the centre of Gibraltar is the entran- tar in 1704. tunnels excavated from the Rock itself. ce to what is arguably the Rock’s most in- By 1790 for example, over 1,200 metres Probably the most impressive part of teresting historical attraction. of tunnels had been dug out by the Brits, the defences for first time visitors are the To put it simply, the Northern Defen- the majority of which remains largely un- tunnels, which have remained virtually ces are a collection of defensive walls, changed to this day. unchanged for two centuries. trenches, bastions, tunnels, magazines, Over the next few centuries the conti- Here visitors must use torches to ex- galleries and gun batteries that date back nued development of the defences made plore this dark, underground world,

48 49 A tunnel from 1789 linking the King’s and Queen’s Lines. :: A. B. which includes the Star Chamber, Commons Hall and St Patrick’s Chamber. The tunnels are a remarkable example of the ingenuity of the Royal Engineers and their predecessors. Highlights in the Northern Defences include lookout positions that give eye- wateringly beautiful views over to Spain and painted maps of the Northern approaches to help those manning the machine guns in WW2 You’ll also see World War 2 guns, anti- aircraft search lights and countless loo- kout posts and bunkers. World War 2 weaponry is still in position at the Northern Defences. :: A. B. History of the tunnels Gibraltar has around 55 km (34 miles) of tunnels that were built over the course of Tunnelling stopped in 1968 when the almost 200 years - mostly by the British. British Army disbanded the last specialist This is nearly twice the length of its road tunnelling unit. network! Since then the tunnels have been han- The first tunnels were dug out in the ded over to the Gibraltar Government or latter part of the 18th century and were retained by the MOD. However, countless used as communication passages between tunnels have been sealed off from the pu- artillery positions in the northern face of blic as they are now too dangerous to enter. the Rock. Then in the 19th century more tunnels were built to access remote parts of the TOUR INFORMATION Rock and distribute a water supply. But it was World War 2 that saw Gibral- Prices depend on the size of the tar turned into an enormous un- group derground fortress that could house 16,000 soldiers with enough supplies and Tour lasts around 2hrs 30 min. Take- ammunition to last 16 months if under water, torches, comfortable shoes and a siege. camera. It’s interesting to note that during this time most of the debris removed from the Visit www.gibraltarheritage- tunnels was used to extend the airport’s trust.org.gi runway into the Bay of Gibraltar.

50 51 ACCOMMODATION

Sustainable camping with a difference A glamping site in the Serranía de Ronda where you can stay in watermelons and cucumbers and shower in a mushroom

Las summer the Molino La Flor where watermelons, cucumbers and gi- The company purchased about 20 of rural complex in Jimera de Líbar gantic wild mushrooms live side by side these old ‘tinajas’ and turned them into in the heart of nature, on the banks of eight watermelons and 12 giant cucum- added a very unusual form of the Guadiaro river. bers. The watermelons sleep two people, accommodation and it is Just as Don Quixote saw giants where and the cucumbers have an additional there were only simple windmills, Can- bed which is ideal for a child under the proving immensely popular dela Luque found old concrete ‘tinajas’ age of 12. “There is just enough space to JAVIER ALMELLONES (large pots used for cooling water) as an sleep,” says Candela. ideal place to create small shelters deep So, Villa Sandía is a campsite in the in the countryside. Candela, who is now countryside where every watermelon 28, runs this rural accommodation com- and every cucumber has its own bath- plex which was founded by her parents room, which in this case has been desig- It’s fun, it’s sustainable and it’s very 30 years ago. Her youth and desire to in- ned in the form of a wild mushroom. As unusual. It’s called Villa Sandía (the novate with sustainability led her to the a result, this accommodation boasts faci- name means ‘watermelon’ in English), so-called ‘glamping’, a new tourism con- lities which are unthinkable on conven- and it is one of the most innovative pla- cept which has arrived to stay, because tional campsites. Each of these giant ces to stay in Andalucía, in the Molino it consists of rural accommodation fungi, equipped with washbasin, La Flor rural complex in Jimera de Líbar. which is respectful of the environment shower and toilet, is assigned to a parti- Since July 2019, children and adults but without forfeiting comfort in any cular watermelon or cucumber. have been enjoying this colourful site way whatsoever. When she came up with the idea last year, Candela Luque could not have fo- reseen what was to come or imagined the way we would have to be living Each of the converted now, where hygiene is a priority. Howe- mills has its own ver, this young local woman explains swimming pool. :: SUR that the only difference now is that guests are given a bottle of hand saniti- sing gel and masks together with their keys. “We were already doing what they are asking of us now, because we always did disinfect everything anyway,” she says. Anyone who sleeps at Villa Sandía will cover themself at night with dispo- sable, biodegradable sheets, which are not only sustainable but also extremely hygienic. Each of the properties also has other basic equipment such as electri- city, fans, chairs and a small table. Another attraction of this original concept of camping is the space that exists between the watermelons and cu- cumbers and the communal areas for guests to use, including two swimming pools and the riverbank, where they can take part in leisure and sports activities, and the bar. “Even when Villa Sandía is full, there The cucumbers can are never crowds of people because the- accommodate re is no much space,” says Candela. two adults Despite having had to close during and a child. :: J. A. the lockdown, she is proud of how suc- cessful her idea of turning ‘tinajas’ into watermelons and cucumbers where people can stay has been. “We were even the first to be classified as a ‘singu- lar campsite’ in Andalucía,” she says. When she was asked to take over the management of this rural complex, Can- dela wanted to bring her personality into it and also her commitment to sus- tainability, while never losing sight of one very clear concept: “We don’t sell luxury; we sell nature”. The price of this unusual accommoda- tion is between 50 euros for a waterme- lon (sleeping two people) and 65 euros for the cucumbers (two adults and a child). Villa Sandía is part of an exten- sive rural complex on eight hectares of land on both sides of the Guadiaro, in the municipality of Jimera de Líbar. This unusual ‘glamping’ site is on one side of the river and two houses, Moli- no La Flor and Molino El Inglés, are on the other and sleep 15 and 20 people respectively. There is a walkway to cross the river. Molino La Flor costs 290 euros a night, and Molino El Inglés 360. Each of these houses has its own swimming pool and has access to other communal facilities, such as the ‘pitu- cabañas’ , little cabins which are scat- tered in the woods and designed to en- tertain the youngsters. These old mills, which have been converted into rural houses for tourism, were the first form of self-ca- tering accommodation to exist in this village in the Serranía de Ronda. Jime- ra de Líbar is in a strategic location, next to the Guadiaro river, between Benaoján and . In other words, between the Grazalema and Los Alcornocales natural parks and very close to valuable enclaves such as La Pileta cave and Las Buitreras del Guadiaro.

53 DIVERSITY

Tasting tours of the traditions of Andalucía

From almadraba tuna in Cadiz to wines and sherries in Cordoba, with some surprises to be found on the way

The regional government cleverly used this fact to create a great meadows has been produced in this has set up gastronomy way of exploring this region through westerly region of Spain since ancient its food and drink, with several Gas- times, and it is now firmly embedded routes for those who like to tronomy Routes to follow in the prov- in local culture. The ‘perniles en sa- explore the local cuisine as inces of Huelva, Seville, Cadiz, Malaga lazón’ from the Sierra de Aracena and and Cordoba. Fish, meat, rice, red and Picos de Aroche were very popular in well as the countryside white wines, brandies and liqueurs - Roman times and even played an im- DEBBIE BARTLETT could there be a more delicious way to portant role in Columbus’ voyage to discover local traditions than through America. the palate? Every establishment in this region serves this ham, and the gastronomy Let’s start with some food route will take you to Jabugo itself, If the thought of being in Andalucía Some of these routes intertwine and Valdezufre, La Nava, Cortegana, doesn’t make your mouth water, well, are in the same part of the region so Corteconcepción, Santa Ana La Real, it should. In a region this size, stretch- they can be combined or followed Alájar, Castaño del Robledo, Aracena ing from the Mediterranean in the separately and in stages. So what takes and Linares de la Sierra. east to the Atlantic in the west, and your fancy first? A bit of ham, per- with so many contrasts in-between, it haps? Then let’s head to the Jabugo The rice route of Seville province is only to be expected that the cuisine Ham Route in Huelva province. Most of this route runs through the would be very varied and interesting. This famous acorn-fed ham from Marismas del Guadalquivir, the The Andalusian government has Iberian pigs which roam freely in the marshland which covers around 2,000

The almadraba tuna fishing. square kilometres in total. Seville province is the largest rice producer in Spain, and it grows on the right-hand side of the Guadalquivir river. This gastronomy route is centred on the lower Guadalquivir basin, before it ar- rives in Cadiz . Between Seville city and the estu- ary lie other important natural en- claves as well: the Brazo del Este Na- ture Area, Utrera Nature Reserve, Hams hang to cure in Aracena, Huelva. -Las Cabezas Nature Reserve, the Green Corridor of the Guadiamar, the Nature Reserves of Dehesa de Abajo and Cañada de los Pájaros. Rice crops and water go together, and so do birds, especially migratory species. It is in general an essential habitat for spectacular bird life, who nest or spend the winters here. Don’t be fooled into thinking that rice must mean paella: the paellas of Andalucía are of course excellent, but there are other ‘arroces’ as well which are equally as delicious. It will be hard to resist trying a few tapas in different places along this route, which will take you to Lebrija, Los Palacios y Vil- lafranca, La Puebla del Río, Isla Mayor, Aznalcázar, Las Cabezas de San Juan, Utrera, Dos Hermanas and Coria del Río.

Montilla-Moriles wine. Tasting in Ronda. :: EFE The Almadraba Tuna Route, Cadiz May is an important month on the coast of Cadiz province, and it has been so for 2,000 years. It is when the first tuna approach the coast on their way to the Mediterranean to spawn. The name ‘almadraba’ refers to this ancient form of fishing, which has been used since time immemorial. The Junta de Andalucía describes this as “a spectacular art of traditional fishing; the human being against the tuna. A fight in which the fastest and most ag- ile will win”. This type of tuna is considered a real delicacy, and many people time their annual holidays to coincide with the first almadraba tuna dishes appearing in local bars and restaurants in towns close to Cadiz city. However, thanks to modern freezing techniques it is avail- able all year round. Seville province is the largest rice producer in Spain. This route focuses on Conil de la

55 DIVERSITY

Frontera, Zahara de la Frontera, Tarifa dies, a culture which goes back a thou- and unique architectural structure. and Barbate, all of which have gor- sand years, and many of its wineries They feel like real sanctuaries in geous beaches and plenty of tradi- are open for tours and tastings. which to worship time. tional bars and restaurants in which to This route runs through a geo- The system of ageing the wines is sample thedifferent ways in which al- graphical triangle between Sanlúcar de exclusive to the Marco del Jerez area. madraba tuna is prepared. Barrameda, El Puerto de Santa María Younger wines are used to liven up and Jerez de la Frontera. The story of older ones, thereby prolonging the And so to the wines..... the wines and brandies of Jerez leads ageing process. The bodegas of Jerez Andalucía has become so well-known from the chalky soil in which the hold some of the oldest wines in the for its wines and spirits that it is quite vines grow to the mysterious darkness world, between 20 and 30 years. They hard to know where to start with the of the bodegas; from the narrow are real enological treasures, kept in gastronomy routes that are dedicated streets of whitewashed houses to the dark tucked-away places, called ‘Sac- to these. However, as we have just magnitude of the ocean. ristás’. been in Cadiz province for the tuna, These drinks are produced with This route does not only cover Jerez, let’s start there with perhaps the best- techniques which have been passed but also , Chiclana de la known of all: the Route of the Wine down through generations. The winer- Frontera, , Rota, Trebu- and Brandy of Jerez. ies, or bodegas, are known as ‘Cathe- jena, El Puerto de Santa María and The lovely city of Jerez is interna- drals of Wine’ because of their size, Sanlúcar de Barrameda. As mentioned tionally famous for its wines and bran- their tranquility, their cool darkness earlier, some of these routes inter- twine and this one would be perfect for sampling the tuna of this area, ac- companied by a fine wine or sherry. Now, though, let’s head to a com- pletely different area, up into the mountains around Ronda, in Malaga province, where numerous wineries have opened in recent years and are producing some very interesting va- rieties indeed.

The Wines and Bodegas of the Serranía de Ronda Ronda is a fabulous town, perched high in the mountains with wonderful views, and split by an impressive gorge. Influenced by its relative proximity to the Mediterranean and Atlantic, the area known as the Serranía de Ronda has a diverse microclimate and this, combined with its varied geology, means the wines produced here are unique. The wine production along this route is classified under the ‘Malaga. Sierras de Malaga’ Denomina- tion of Origin. Ronda’s red wines have been de- scribed as “monumental, patient, tranquil, generally fruity on the nose, with aromas which accentuate with age and gain in complexity. In the mouth they are wines with volume, good persistence, and more unctuous and concentrated in those subjected to ageing”. The white wines are straw yellow The wine museum in Bollullos, Huelva province. with greenish hues, and the crianza

56 The landscape around Jerez reflects its world famous wine production. versions are more golden. The reds Genil, Aguilar de la Frontera, Lucena, The Condado de Huelva wine route range from violet red to ruby or tile- Montalbán de Cordoba and Cabra. will take you to Rociana del Condado, red, depending on how long they are Almonte, Niebla, La Palma del Con- aged, and the rosé wines have a wide The Condado de Huelva Route dado, Bollullos, Par de Condado, Palos range of colours, some of them almost If you like white wine but are in the de la Frontera, El Rocío and Moguer. reaching that of a red. west of Andalucía and Cordoba is a bit Sixteen bodegas in the Ronda area too far to travel, there is no problem. The Wines and Liqueurs of can be visited, and there is also an in- It may come as a surprise to many, but Seville teresting Wine Museum in the town Huelva province, where we began by Straight away, there is another sur- centre. sampling the famous Jabugo ham, also prise. Who knew that Seville province This route focuses solely on Ronda has its own Denomination of Origin produced wine and spirits? In fact, it and the nearby village of . for its white wine, the Condado de has been doing so for a very long Huelva, and once you have tried it time. The area through which this The Montilla-Moriles Wine you will probably wonder why you route passes has been making wine Route never encountered it before. for centuries, and Spanish nobles Let’s head further afield now, east- Most of the oldest wineries in this were very partial to them in the 15th, wards into Cordoba province, which is province are now run by the third 16th and 17th centuries. They were justifiably proud of its Montilla-Mo- generation of a family, who aim to also exported to the New World. riles wines. This route passes through find a happy balance between pre- A huge variety of grapes are grown different landscapes, and it is said serving the traditions which are their here, and this is reflected in the types that if you close your eyes, you find heritage and also taking advantage of of wine available. This area is also fa- this is a region that smells of bread, new technologies. mous for its sweet and dry ‘anís’. olive oil... and wine. It boasts an im- The Condado de Huelva Denomina- This route leads through Lebrija, pressive historical and cultural heri- tion of Origin is a recognition of the Guadalcanal, Carmona, Pruna, Con- tage, and its gastronomy is second to quality of the grapes whch are grown stantina, Villanueva del Ariscal, none. on over 6,000 hectares of land in the Fuentes de Andalucía, Utrera, Huévar Cordoba specialises in white and region, especially the native ‘zalema’ del Aljarafe, Espartinas, Umbrete, Al- sweet wines and sherries, and this variety. anís, Benacazón, Los Palacios y Villa- route leads through a long list of The provincial authorities are keen franca and Cazalla de la Sierra. towns and villages. It is worth taking to attract more wine tourism, and have the opportunity to stay a few days, set up schemes such as the Wine Route and discover the delights of La Ram- Product Club whose members can en- bla, Montemayor, Espejo, Cordoba joy benefits including tastings which MORE INFORMATION city, Moriles, Baena, Castro del Río, are organised especially for them and Doña Mencía, Santaella, Montilla, are suitable for beginners as well as www.andalucia.org Monturque, Fernán-Núñez, Puente those with previous knowledge.

57 WHAT TO DO

A city of surprises for the culture seeker Head into the capital of the Costa del Sol this summer to experience the rapidly growing show of artistic attractions

Malaga city overflows with The Gibralfaro Castle is one of the historic monuments, art venues used for many of the events that make up Malaga’s extensive sum- galleries and cool museums mer cultural programme. that combine tradition and Malaga, like the rest of Europe, is coming to terms with the ‘new nor- modernity mal’, and the cultural scene is slowly TONY BRYANT beginning to return to the city, al- though with a reduced audience capac- ity and new health and safety policies. The capital of the Costa del Sol will Malaga is a vibrant city, crammed with host colourful festivals and live music historic monuments and religious concerts throughout the summer temples, museums and art galleries, months, and this year’s agenda offers a and a thriving and rapidly growing range of events from flamenco and number of artistic attractions. It cer- jazz, to classical and traditional music, tainly deserves a place on a list of all of which, will evoke the cultural must-do trips this summer, ideal for identity of Malaga. those looking for cultural activity closer to the Costa del Sol. Cultural presence The city has been inhabited by the Malaga has established itself deeply Phoenicians, Romans and Arabs - all of within the cultural sphere over the whom have left their identity on the past ten years and the city has har- place - so culture enthusiasts will dis- vested - at a cost of around 100 million cover a variety of influences. euros - a range of museums of interna- These include the Alcazaba fortress, tional renown. which sits in the foothills of Mount One of the newest arrivals, and the Gibralfaro. Malaga cathedral. :: SUR biggest museum in Andalucía, is the The Gibralfaro Castle sits on top the Museo de Malaga, which is housed in hill, which was named after a light- pation of the city. The theatre, while the luxurious Palacio de la Aduana. In- house that once sat at its peak (Jabal- still visible from the street, is one of augurated in 2016, the Malaga mu- Faruk, the light mountain). The castle the few local monuments that remains seum is divided into two sections and was built in the 14th century to pro- closed to visitors after the Covid-19 exhibits over 2,000 pieces of fine art, tect the Alcazaba. Today, it is one of lockdown. Work to improve future vis- and a collection of over 15,000 ar- the most visited monuments in its will continue until next year when chaeological artefacts discovered dur- Malaga and offers spectacular views of the site will reopen. ing various digs that have occurred in the city, especially at sunset. The area around the Roman theatre the province. Adjacent to the entrance of the Al- is a wonderful location to enjoy a sum- Art lovers will find Spain’s largest cazaba is the 1st century BCE Roman mer night stroll, or enjoy the delights collection of Pablo Picasso’s work in the theatre. The theatre is one of the re- of local cuisine served at the numerous Palacio de Buenavista, the 18th-century maining symbols of the Roman occu- tapas bars and restaurants. palace that houses more than 200 draw-

58 ings, paintings, sculptures and ceramics from the different periods of the life of the world-famous artist. As well as its main collection, the Picasso Museum is currently showing (20 June-26 September) an exhibition of pictures that show Picasso at work and relaxing with acquaintances such as artist Joan Miró and poet Rafael Al- berti. Picasso as Seen by Otero is the work of photographer Roberto Otero, who took a series of intimate pictures A visitor at the Malaga Picasso Museum after its reopening. :: S. SALAS of the artist between 1961 and 1970. pieces of glass from different epochs. A short walk from the This is a museum of decorative art that museum will lead to has become a reference centre for arti- Picasso’s birthplace in Plaza san techniques of the past. Due to Co- de Merced, which has been vid-19 this museum remains closed an official heritage site until 1 September. since 1983. Other cool museums include the Opened in 2011, the Car- Museo de la Semana Santa, which of- men Thyssen Museum is lo- fers an impressive display of Baroque cated in the adapted Palacio ecclesiastical items; and El Museo Rev- de Villalón, also at the ello de Toro, which is dedicated to the heart of the city centre. Its Malaga artist renowned for painting vast art collection pays spe- portraits of his wife. cial attention to 18th and Don’t forget the Museo Auto- 19th-century Andalusian movilístico de Málaga, which displays artists. an extensive collection of exclusive One of the museum’s temporary ex- Centre Pompidou Malaga. :: SUR vintage vehicles; and the State Mu- hibitions is Toulouse-Lautrec and the seum of Russian Art of St Circus, which runs until 13 September. Petersburg (Russian Mu- The collection consists of a series of seum), both located in circus-theme drawings that the bohe- the old cigarette factory mian portraitist produced while conva- on the west side of the lescing on the outskirts of Paris in the city. late 19th century. The latter is currently exhibiting the collection, Modern and contemporary Realism, Past and Pre- The Centro Pompidou Malaga - the first sent. Art and Truth. It is branch outside France - exhibits a semi- also showing exhibitions permanent collection of works by such about Andréi Tarkovsky artists as Picasso, Francis Bacon, Gi- The Russian Museum in Malaga. :: M. F. and Russian silent film. acometti, Frida Kahlo, and Kandinsky, among others. Bizarre attraction There are also many un- Probably one of the most bizarre and usual museums that host relatively unknown attractions in smaller, unique collections, Malaga is the Panteón de los Condes de like the Malaga Centre for Buenavista, which is found in the Contemporary Art (CAC), Church of Nuestra Señora de la Victo- which is a benchmark for lov- ria. The pantheon is one of the most ers of modern art. unusual in Andalucía because it is an The glass museum (Museo exhibition of the Baroque discourse of del Vidrio y Cristal) is located death. The eerie niches are separated in a carefully restored 18th by pilasters adorned with white plaster century house and offers a bones, sculls and skeletons set on a private collection of more than 3,000 Art at the Museo de Málaga. :: S. SALAS black background.

59 The small shell-covered graves contain the remains of children who died in the epidemics of the mid-19th century LIZ PARRY

The first thing that strikes visitors when they reach the walled inner precinct of the English Cemetery in Malaga is the mounds of seashells covering the an- cient graves. Not slabs of granite or mar- ble, just crumbling brick bases and row upon row of shells. Some have head- stones, others, if you look carefully, are just marked with a number. A second feature which stops people in their tracks when they climb to the upper level is the size of the graves. Most are very small, because they con- tain the remains of children who died in the epidemics of mid 19th century diseases. Cholera was particularly rife, with virulent outbreaks in both 1833 and 1855. One of the most poignant sights is a small fenced area where three children from the same family, who died in the space of six months, are buried together. Their grieving par- One of the graves covered in seashells. :: KARL SMALLMAN ents had a headstone put up with the epitaph: “They were lovely and pleas- ant in their lives and in their death they were not divided.” The back wall of this inner cemetery bears a poem by María Victoria Atencia, The significance ‘Epitafio para una muchacha’: an epi- taph for a young girl who is compared with an unopened bud, who will never grow to be a flower bursting into spring. Two reasons are given for the use of of seashells in seashells to decorate the graves. One is related to the original reason for the cemetery’s very existence: before the British Consul William Mark obtained a cemetery the land - well outside the city’s boundaries, although coming up to 200 years later Malaga has grown to encompass it - non-Roman Catholics who died had to be buried, at night, on The decoration on many of the graves in the beach. the old part of Malaga’s English In 1831, when the first burial took place in the English Cemetery, placing Cemetery came straight from the beach seashells on the graves may well have seemed a fitting way to honour the memory of those whose last and un-

60 HISTORY

ENGLISH CEMETERY FACTS

The English Cemetery in Malaga is near the bullring: look for the lions above the gate at Avenida de Pries 1. Tel. 952 22 35 52. Buses: 3, 11, 32, 33, 34 and 35 stop outside the cemetery.

The cemetery is open to visitors The shell-covered graves are on the upper level of the cemetery. :: SUR every day until 3pm. marked resting place had been on the statues or plaques, but seashells were to Guided tours and events also take shore. be found in abundance very close to the place at other times: details in the lo- The other reason given is one of con- cemetery, and of course, they were free. cal press and on the website. venience. In the early days of the burial So the graves of the first Protestant www.cementerioinglesmalaga.org ground created for Anglicans, local cemetery in mainland Spain, many of Spanish craftsmen who might have them containing the remains of infants, Member of the Association of Signi- been employed to create sculptures or were adorned with what could be found ficant Cemeteries in Europe (ASCE) elaborate memorial stones in the Ro- on the nearby beach. What could be a man Catholic cemeteries would be re- more fitting decoration for the graves of St George’s Anglican church stands luctant to provide the same service for small children who, had they lived in the cemetery: those of other faiths. Some families may longer, would surely have played on the https://www.stgeorgemalaga.org/ have sent to their home countries for shore in Malaga, and gathered seashells?

61 WHAT TO DO

Festivals adapt to fill the summer with music Spanish artists dominate the lineups in this unusual year No summer is complete A concert held earlier without music festivals and this summer in the Picasso Museum this year towns on the costas courtyard. :: ÑITO SALAS as well as Malaga city are going ahead with a limited number of events JENNIE RHODES

Although coronavirus has meant that many summer festivals have been can- celled or reduced this year, music lovers will still be able to enjoy a number of events on the Costas, from the glamo- rous Starlite boutique festival at the stunning Nagüeles quarry in Marbella, to the popular Jazz on the Costa in Al- muñécar’s Majuelo park. While nume- rous international stars have fallen from the original lineups, this summer offers the perfect opportunity to discover some Spanish talent. Marenostrum Limited Edition ’s Marenosotrum is going ahead with an ‘Edición Limitada’ version of its annual festival at the town’s Casti- llo de Sohail with concerts throughout July, August and September. Highlights include veteran Spanish rock band, Loquillo and M- Clan. Starlite The Starlite festival starts on 29 July and runs throughout August. The Nagüeles Quarry auditorium in Marbella will be hosting well-known Spanish artists in- cluding singer-songwriter, David Bisbal, who shot to fame on Spain’s Operación Triunfo talent show nearly 20 years ago. Bisbal will be performing on 18 August Social distancing and masks at the Limited Edition Marenostrum festival in Fuengirola this year. :: MIGUE FERNÁNDEZ

A previous Jazz en la Costa festival in Almuñécar. :: AYTO. ALM. The Marbella Starlite festival kicks off at the end of July. :: JOSELE and fellow Spanish singer-songwriter, Nerja’s Playazo beach on Saturday 22 Au- all concerts and further information can Melendi, will be performing on 26 Au- gust. So far confirmed artists include Fuel be found at: www.jazzgranada.es Tickets gust. Flamenco singers Diego el Cigala Fandango, Fernandocosta and Maka. For can be bought from: www.ticketmas- and Estrella Morente, will be performing more information and tickets see: ter.es. on 6 August. Further information and www.chanqueteworldmusic.com tickets are avilable at: www.starlitemar- Salobreña Festival de Tendencias bella.com. Antequera Blues Festival Salobreña’s Festival de Tendencias, now in Antequera’s blues festival will be happe- its twenty-ninth year, will take place from Malaga city ning on 31 July and 1 August. Details and 5 to 7 August in the town’s Auditorio Mu- The Factoría Fenix festival of dance and line up are to be announced shortly. See nicipal de la Villa Costera and will feature theatre started in June and will continue the facebook page, Antequera Blues Festi- Kiko Veneno, Sole Giménez and a music to 26 July in the city’s Echegary theatre. val or the website: www.cambaya.com for documentary and conference about the le- Cine Abierto is a festival of summer ci- updates. gendary Manu Chao. For further informa- nema running throughout July and Au- tion see: www.granadaescultura.com. gust. A total of 108 free screenings will Jazz on the Costa Tropical be happening at different locations inclu- Almuñécar’s Jazz en la Costa festival will Noches en el Castillo de la Herradura ding beaches and parks around the city. be taking place from Wednesday 22 to Sa- Celebrating its third anniversary this year, The city’s Terral festival will start on 8 turday 25 July in the town’s Majuelo park. La Herradura’s Noches en el Castillo festi- September and run until 4 November. Opening the festival will be the Costa val will be taking place from 6 to 9 August The two-month musical extravaganza in- Jazz Quartet along with Chicuelo and pia- in the castle gardens. Confirmations in- cludes 16 performances of blues, calypso, nist Marco Mezquida. Other performan- clude flamenco singer-songwriter Miguel flamenco, jazz, mambo, pop, swing, ur- ces over the four-day event include Grana- Poveda on 8 August. Tickets: on sale at: ban and everything in between! Tickets da-based pianist Lucía Rey and Chano Do- www.consiguetuentrada.com. are on sale now. For further information mínguez, who is considered one of the visit: www.teatrocervantes.com pioneers of Spanish Jazz music. Javier Co- lina will be performing on Friday 24 July CONCERT AGENDA Chanquete and Malaga singer-songwriter Pepa Niebla The Chanquete World Music festival will and Andrea Motis will be closing the festi- See page 64 for more live music. be celebrating its fifth anniversary on val on Saturday 25. Doors open at 9pm for

63 WHAT TO DO

Summer music agenda

A concert guide for the Costa del Sol and Costa Tropical

JULY 30 mitada): Sohail castle, Fuengirola José Merlé ( Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella Jorge Pardo: Picasso museum, Malaga 17 Andrés Suárez (Marenostrum Edición Li- Miguel Poveda: (Málaga Gira festival): Trío Mainake: Picasso Museum, Malaga, mitada): Sohail castle, Fuengirola Auditorio municipal de Torres, Ma- 8pm & 9.15pm. Julia Martín ( Jueves de Verano): Pompidou laga. Malaga Philharmonic Orchestra: La Térmi- Centre, Malaga ca gardens, Malaga, 9.30pm. 2 Cine Abierto (outdoor cinema): Outdoor 31 Strad (Marenostrum Edición Limitada): venues around Malaga city until 24 August. Marta Sánchez (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbe- Sohail castle, Fuengirola lla. www.starlitemarbella.com 18 Carolina Durante (Málaga Gira festival): 3 Alba Molina: Picasso Musem Malaga, 8pm & Auditorio municipal Cortijo de Torres, Mala- 84, Sinsinati, Manon (Starlite): Nagüeles 9.15pm. ga. quarry, Marbella. Malaga Philharmonic Orchestra: La Térmi- Antequera Blues Festival: Antequera ca gardens, Malaga, 9.30pm. 4 La Shica: Carmen Thyssen Museum AUGUST Antonio José (Starlite): Nagüeles, Mabella courtyard, 9.30pm. 1 5 22 Dvicio (Starlite): Nagüeles Marbella El Arrebato (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella Costa Jazz Quartet, Chicuelo & Marco Antequera Blues Festival: Antequera M-Clan (Marenostrum Edición Limitada): Mezquida (Jazz en la Costa): Majuelo Park, Carlos Sadness (Marenostrum Edición Li- Sohail castle, Fuengirola. Almuñécar, 10pm.

23 Lucía Rey, M.A.P. (Jazz en La Costa): Ma- juelo park, Almuñécar, 10pm.

24 Chano Dominguez, Javier Colina (Jazz en la Costa): Majuelo park, Almuñécar, 10pm Nacho Loring Trio: Picasso museum Malaga, 8pm & 9.15pm

25 Pepa Niebla, Andrea Motis (Jazz en la Cos- ta): Majuelo park, Almuñécar, 10pm. Cuarteto Con Fuoco: Picasso museum Mala- ga, 8pm & 9.15pm. Ara Malikian (Málaga Gira festival): Audi- torio municipal Cortijo de Torres, Malaga. Dry Martina: Carmen Thyssen Museum courtyard, 9.30pm

29 David Bisbal, Ketama (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella Starlite, 18 August. :: P. N.

64 6 Estrella Morente & Diego el Cigala (Starli- te): Nagüeles, Marbella Proyecto Dasein (Jueves de Verano): Harp, flute, viola. Russian museum, Malaga Solé Jiménez (Tendencias festival): Salo- breña

7 Taburete (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella Kiko Veneno (Tendencias festival): Salo- Dry Martina, Terral , 25 September. :: SUR breña 091 (Málaga Gira festival): Auditorio muni- cipal Cortijo de Torres, Malaga. 21 27 & 28 Miguel Poveda (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbe- Morat (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella 8 lla Miguel Poveda (Noches en el Castillo de La 29 Herradura): La Herradura castle, 10pm 22 Aitana (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella María José, Pitingo (Starlite): Nagúeles, Luz Casal (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella Viva Suecia (Marenostrum Edición Limita- Marbella. Chanquete World Music festival: El Playazo da): Sohail Castle, Fuengirola. Mijas Celtic Festival: Mijas pueblo audito- beach, Nerja rium, 8pm 24 SEPTEMBER 10 Loquillo ( Marenostrum Edición Limitada): Lola Índigo (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella Sohail castle, Fuengirola 4 Pablo López (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella Mala Rodríguez (Málaga Gira festival): Au- 11 ditorio municipal Cortijo de Torres, Malaga. Funambulista, Maldita Nerea (Starlite): 26 Nagüeles, Marbella. Melendi (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella 5 M-Clan (Málaga Gira festival): Auditorio El Kanka (Marenostrum Edición Limitada): municipal Cortijo de Torres, Malaga. Sohail Castle Fuengirola

12 8 Ara Malikian, DJ Nano (Starlite): Nagüeles, Los Tres Tenores (Terral): Cervantes thea- Marbella tre, Malaga

13 9 Beret (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella Ana Cisneros (Terral): Cervantes theatre Proyecto Dasein (Jueves de Verano): Harp, flute, viola. Pompidou Centre, Malaga 13 Berna Perles (Terral): Cervantes theatre 14 & 15 India Martínez (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbe- 14 lla Alicia Tamariz (Terral): Cervantes theatre

17 15 Pica Pica (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella The Beatles Songbook (Terral): Cervantes theatre, Malaga 18 David Bisbal (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella 19 Julia Martín (Terral): Cervantes theatre, 19 Malaga Rozalén (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella 25 20 Dry Martina (Terral): Cervantes theatre, Siempre Así (Starlite): Nagüeles, Marbella Javier Colina, Almuñécar, 24 July. Malaga.

65 WHAT TO DO

Opening times: July and August: 11am-7pm, Costa parks September: 11am - 6pm. Admission: 30 euros, concessions 22 euros, discounts available online. offer nature, Aquavelis Waterpark with various giant slides and wave pool. water and Ruta del Pomelo, Urb. El Tomillar, 29740 Torre del Mar. Telephone 952 542 758, www.aquavelis.es. Opening times: June and thrills September: 11am - 6pm, July and August: 11am - 7pm. Admission: 25.50 euros, con- Selwo Marina. :: SUR cessions: 19.50. Discounts for groups, sea- THE ANIMAL WORLD son tickets, online tickets. Selwo Marina nars on wolves and dog training, guided tours. Dolphinarium Animal Park with five zones: Carretera Antequera-Álora, km 16, Antequera. Las Antillas, La Hondonada, Ice Island, Ama- Telephone 952 301 107. OTHER zonia and Los Trópicos; shows with dol- www.lobopark.com. Opening times from 10 Tivoli World phins, exotic birds, penguin feeding. Parque July: daily 10am -6pm. Admission adult 11.50 Theme park with a big wheel, roller de la Paloma. 29630 Benalmádena, Tele- euros, children 7.50 euros. Guided tours at coaster, ghost train, go-karts, drop tower. phone 952 577 773, www.selwomarina.es. 11am,1pm, 3pm, 4.30pm. Shows for children and adults, various Opening times: 1 July - 31 October 10am - themed restaurants. Avda de Tivoli s/n, 6pm. Admission: 11-65 Years 21 euros, Crocodile Park 29630 Arroyo de la Miel. Telephone 952 under 3 Years free, concessions 15.50 euros. Theme park with crocodiles, turtles and 577 016. Reductions, season tickets, combination and exotic birds. Tours and demonstrations. C/ www.tivoli.es. Opening times: 3 July until online tickets. Cuba, 14. 29620 . Telephone 13 September 5.30pm - 1.30am. 19/20 and 952 051 782. www.cocodrilospark.com. 26/27 September 12 - 8pm Admission: Sea Life Opening times: 10 July - 31 October: 11am 7.95 euros, Children under 1 metre tall and Interactive aquarium with marine animals to - 5pm. July and August: 11am - 6pm. over 65s free. 15.95 euros for unlimited visit, touch and feed. Puerto Marina. 29630 Admission: adult 16 euros, Concessions and rides (under 12s only). Online discounts Benalmádena. Minigolf remains closed. Tele- online savings. available. phone 952 560 150. www.visitsealife.com/Benalmadena Aventura Amazonia Climbing Park Opening times: 12 - 7.30pm. Admission: 12 WATER PARKS Treetop climbing and adventure park with euros, season tickets, online saver tickets. Aqua Tropic Almuñécar rope bridges and zipwires. C/ Valeriano Fun-packed water park with large slides and a Rodríguez, Elviria. 29604 Marbella, 952 Selwo Aventura wave pool. 835 505. www.aventura-amazo- Selwo Aventura. Wildlife Adventure Park. Differ- Paseo Reina Sofía, S/N, 18690 Almuñécar (Gra- nia.com/parques-amazonia/marbella. ent routes for visitors to see animals and plants nada) Opening times: July and August: from around the world and in some cases to han- www.aqua-tropic.com 9.30/10am - 9pm. Admission: 21/24 euros, dle. 29680 Estepona, A-7, km 162.5. Telephone Opening times: 26 June - 12 September: 11am- Discount for children and groups. 952 577 773. Web:www.selwo.es. 7pm. Admission: 23 euros, concessions 15/17 Opening times: 1 July - 31 October 10am - 6pm. euros, children under 3 free. Discounts available Funny Hill Admission: 10-65 years 25.90 euros, Conces- online and for groups. Karting Marbella, Go-karts for children and sions 18 euros; Combined tickets and season adults, amusement arcade, trampo- tickets available. Online discounts available. Aquamijas lines, bumper cars. Marbella, N- Waterpark for the whole family 340, km 184. Tel. 952 823 Bioparc Fuengirola with various slides and 359. Web: www.funny- Animal park with exotic animals and trees such attractions. A-7, km 209, hill.es Opening times: as the baobab tree. Avda. Camilo José Cela, 6. 29640 Mijas Costa, Tel. Every day 4pm - mid- 29640 Fuengirola. Web: www.bioparcfuengi- 952 460 404. night. Price according rola.es. www.aquamijas.com to Go-kart duration. Opening times: July and August: 10am - 11pm. Opening times: In September, 10am - 7/8pm (see dates), Octo- 29June: 10.30am - Cable Car ber 10am - 6/6.30pm (see dates). 6pm, July and Benalmádena Admission: 21.10 euros, Concessions August: 10.30am - Takes visitors the top 17.10/16.10 euros; family tickets and season 7pm. 1-13 Septem- of Mount Calamorro, tickets available. ber: 10.30am - 6pm. for spectacular views Admission: adult and hiking routes. Butterfly house 26.50euros.Family dis- Explanada Tívoli, s/n. Benalmádena: Largest Butterfly House in counts and multi-day tick- 29630, Benalmádena. Funny Hill. :: SUR Europe. Av. de Retamar, 29639 Benalmádena. ets, discounts available Tel. 951 560 324. Opening times: daily from 10.30am - 8.30pm. online. www.telefericobenal- Tel. 951 211 196 www.mariposariodebenal- madena.com. Opening times: 1 madena.com. Admission: Adult 8.50 euros, Aqualand Torremolinos July - 31 October: 11am-6pm. 1 Concessions 7.50 euros. Waterpark for the whole family with different November, December: 11am -5pm. Admis- slides, wave pool, whirlpools. sion: 16.90 euros, concessions 12.90 euros Lobo Park C/ Cuba, 10. 29620 Torremolinos (return). One way tickets and discounts for Wolf Park with wolves in natural habitat, semi- www.aqualand.es/torremolinos groups and online ticket purchases.

66 67 68