1919 ll about the xarquia A Issue 184 www.theolivepress.esA April 2 - April 16 2014 ROADBLOCK: Herd of goats en route to wards Maroma moun- tain near Sedella

Tolkien-shireWild soaring mountains, crystal brooks and elegant white- washed villages. Tom Powell is blown away by the stunning, varied Axarquia region en route to its ‘crown’ of Comares

IPPING your feet in the cool Mediterranean, in a Nerja cove backed by a buzzing town with bars, restaurants, Dtapas and ice cream, is a wonderful experience. But the first sip of beer as you gaze out across the breath-taking Axar- quia landscape from the hill-top vil- lage of Comares - following an epic drive through mighty mountains and

whitewashed pueblos – is simply Picture by Jon Clarke unbeatable. The Axarquia is best appreciated road, marveling at the mountains noise came from a stream trickling carnacion. lage, built on olive oil and wine pro- when you head inland from the specked with isolated white homes down from the mountains above The eye-catching fourteenth century duction, is the smallest municipality coast, and the transition from Ner- as if they had been sprinkled on the and the distant engine of a tractor. tower is the minaret of an earlier in the Axarquia. But make sure to ja’s tourist hum to tranquil moun- landscape like hundreds and thou- A street so narrow that obese tour- mosque, the clearest evidence of stop. tain beauty doesn’t take long. sands. ists could struggle to pass led to a Archez’s Moorish roots. The mazy streets are home to plump Within minutes of leaving the beach- My first stop was in Archez, nestled charming mini-plaza with geraniums Five kilometres further on sits old ladies snoozing in the morning es behind me in the morning sun, I in the foothills of the Sierra Almija- adorning houses and the quaint gleaming white Salares below the was ascending a winding mountain ra, and it set the bar high. The only church of Nuestra Senora de La En- Maroma mountain. This elegant vil- Turn to page 20

becomes Cerveceria Restaurante Belga Calle Gloria, 9, Nerja Open 12hu/24hu Closed on monday 2020 2121 ll about xarquia A A April 2 - April 16 2014 In search of the ‘white crown’ From Page 19 ing between these villages is still seen a recent boom in housing sun, colourful potted plants and highly enviable. The roads were construction on its shores. The the odd child playing. On the other sensational – the kind you see area is home to plenty of expat side of town stands an ancient on Top Gear when they’re testing British and increasingly Scandina- Walk the stone footbridge that radiates a supercars. And the cyclists obvi- vians, Dutch and Germans. ADVENTURE: Salares bridge, (right) Comares and (inset) Migas true sense of adventure and histo- ously thought so too, often found Their main hive is the legendary Walk ry, like something out of Tolkien’s tackling mountain climbs in their Puente de Don Manuel, where me a few minutes to realise that stood atop the mountain and gazed ART lovers in Shire. droves. they can count on a cluster of Eng- this snow-cap cluster was Comares, out at this sublime region. Sierras the Axarquia Beautiful little pueblos, pickled in The first glimpse of the Vinuela lish stores, an Irish bar, great fish my garret for the night. dressed in a patchwork of pueb- will be able hundreds of years of Andalucian reservoir – just outside Canillas de and chips and conveniently a curry This spectacular place gives a los, plantations, winding roads and to enjoy all sunshine, began to fade into each Aceituno - made me desperate to house. whole new level of meaning to isolated homesteads spilled down Pictures by Tom Powell styles of arts other as I continued to cruise the drop everything and dive head-first It was from near here that I sud- ‘mountain-clinging’. It looked ma- towards the sparkling coast where and crafts mountain roads - not entirely sure into its sparkling blue waters. denly spotted what looked like a jestic and intriguing up high and Torre del Mar can be seen hugging at the sixth white crown adorning a hilltop on Art Walk- if I was heading remotely in the The turquoise reservoir helps sup- compelled me to fo- the shore. recognised by information boards pool is only open in the summer about in Competa. right direction. ply the city of Malaga but has also the other side of the lake. It took cus on the destina- There is a walking across the village. months. Due to take place over the My drive roughly followed the tion, having indulged Villages twinkled route around Co- I found myself completely alone The Axarquia is undoubtedly a hik- weekend of April 19/20, Mudejar route, which takes in five in the journey all and coastal towns mares laid out by in this serene place, bar the occa- er’s paradise. There are many clear- the event aims to bring Moorish villages and countless in- morning. pretty ceramic foot- sional locals sweeping outside their ly signposted routes heading out of together the community credible views. Benamargosa was shone, while a prints, taking in nu- home. Despite being very small, it Comares and infinitely more that in an animated and artis- I passed through Sedella, Canillas my penultimate stop- donkey brayed merous miradors, took me a long time to walk around aren’t publicised in leaflets. tic atmosphere at various de Aceituno and La Vinuela, each ping point, another the Castillo, the as I couldn’t help but stop and ad- After taking a short walk around the venues in the town. with their individual towers and impeccably white below peaceful cemetery mire the view every few minutes. edges of the village I headed back Works on show include arches, plazas and piles of potted village this time sur- and ending back in The square - where I tucked into a to my hotel located on the road into paintings, photographs, geraniums. The latter is, by local rounded by citrus orchards and avo- the central square. The remains of gigantic portion of fried pork and Comares, Hostal Atalaya. graphics, drawings, ce- standards, a ‘new’ pueblo as it was cado and mango plantations. the Moorish fort stand highest of chips - was only made louder by It is a simple yet charming place to ramic bowls and bronze only formally recognised in 1764. From there the corkscrew road all. the snoring of a middle-aged man, stay, with legs of ham, jugs of wine sculptures. In total there The landscape is so relentlessly to Comares climbed higher and It turned out to be the stronghold of slouched against his front door. and quirky lamps hanging from bread crumbs, spicy sausage, pep- are 19 artists from many spectacular that I felt guilty for not higher, but its death-defying hair- ninth century rebel leader Ibn Haf- There is no escaping the heat up wooden beams in the bar. I sam- per and slices of orange. The kind countries living and stopping at every single viewpoint pin bends were worth it. It was all sun - here and at nearby and appro- of stomach-satisfying food I could working in the Competa on the mountain though and I was pled a hearty local speciality called area. and giving it the five minutes gawp- leading up to that moment when I priately named Masmullah - who is aggrieved to discover the municipal Migas, a dish piled high with fried imagine tasting like heaven after ing it demanded. But I would never a day laboring in For more details on the event ROAD TO COMARES: Locals in the hills visit www.competaart.com have made it to Comares. the Axarquia sun. on the tracks around Comares Although a day spent journey- ARCHEZ: A beautiful pueblo pickled in the Andalucian sun After filling up fur- ther with plump, juicy olives and Q: What has fried white fish, I retired to the ho- Nerja got to tel’s south-facing balcony to feast instead upon do with Trivial night-time views of the Axarquia. The villages Pursuit? twinkled and the coastal towns shone, while a donkey wheezed A: It invented it its way back up the mountain road below me. T is possibly the most successful board game But while they enjoyed the paella, the beer and The tourist leaf- of all time, with over 100 million copies sold strolls along the Balcon de Europa, they strug- lets refer to Co- in 26 countries and in at least 20 languages... gled to find investors for ‘Six Thousand Ques- Dead interesting mares as the and it was born in the Axarquia. tions’, as it was originally called. Balcon de la Ax- IIt happened after two young Canadian journal- Just one Nerja resident decided to invest, a Ca- SAID to have been designed so the dead would not turn their backs on each arquia (balcony ists stayed in Nerja in the winter of 1980, having nadian barman. He is now a millionaire. other, it is claimed to be the only round cemetery in Spain. of Axarquia), but quit their jobs to work on the game and persuade The game went unnoticed for two years. They lost Now locals in Sayalonga hope that their unusual graveyard, built in 1840, is to be promoted better as a tourist attraction. I can’t help but investors to part with their money. money on every copy they sold and it looked to feel that is an un- Chris Haney, a high-school dropout, had been be a disaster. But then once the first cheques A visitor centre is now open and a local historian is urging the authorities to working as a picture editor in Montreal while his starting rolling in they never stopped. designate it a BIC, or site of specific cultural interest. derstatement. It’s friend David Abbott was a sportswriter. Within months it was selling by the million and in the crown. The pair lived at El Capistrano, a villa resort 1984, Time magazine called it ‘the biggest phe- where Haney’s parents had a house, and they al- nomenon in game history’. legedly worked 16 hours a day thinking up ques- And it is still incredibly popular, with Nerja’s tions for their game – fuelled by San Miguel. And first Trivial Pursuit tournament currently being lots of it. planned for this year.

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CORTIJO PILTRAQUE Paraje Piltraque, Poligono 5, Parcela 29, 29170 Colmenar (Malaga) E: [email protected] www.cortijo-piltraque.com 22 2323 ll about A Axarquia April 2 - April 16 2014 Don’t be warded off by the ‘phantom’ HEY are easily the most Molasses of fun popular tourist attrac- tion in the Axarquia and T could be called one of the sweetest The coastal pair of Nerja, with its stunning beaches it is little surprise that spots in Spain. Quite literally that is, TNerja’s caves pull in thou- thanks to its sugar cane factory. and top restaurants, and Frigiliana, with its sugar cane sands by the day. But Frigiliana, which sits on the edge factory and cobbled streets, compliment each other While some describe them as Iof the Parque Natural Sierras de Tejeda, over-commercialised and not Almijara y Alhama, has also won prizes for perfectly, writes Tom Powell worth the money, the caves being the prettiest village in Spain thanks are in fact some of Europe’s to its immaculately kept, flower-bedecked lords of Frigiliana, the Manrique de Lara through an arch. While traces of the old finest. world’s largest stalagmite; a cobbled streets. family, and was used as a sugar mill be- Moorish castle remain above the hilltop Despite enormous crowds at 32 metre high column verified The miel de cana factory in question - El In- fore becoming a factory. where spectacular coastal views are also peak times, within seconds by the Guinness book of world genio - is set in the magnificent 16th cen- Frigiliana, with its mosaic cobbled streets found. of descending the stairs you records no less. And there is SCENIC: View from Nerja’s Balcon de Europa tury mansion Nuestra Senora del Carmen Nearby, take a light lunch at the Garden DISCOVERY: Frigiliana’s steep steps are in an extraordinary place, a campaign currently under- and whitewashed houses, probably rues are worth the climb and (right) its in the heart of the town. its proximity to the coast and the resultant Restaurant at the top of the town, which worlds away from Nerja and way to get the caves officially The only one still functioning in Spain, it daily droves of tourists. overlooks the factory and offers the best sugar cane factory and its produce the sunny coast. recognised by UNESCO as a Nerja resident chugs out deliciously sticky molasses – or Built on the side of a mountain, its streets views around. A marvelous glistening under- world heritage site. for 30 years, treacle – on an hourly basis. are remarkably steep in parts, but it is a Despite its hilly location, the village won nos and Marbella. It’s all part of the indelible mark left by the perfect for a lunch-stop. At one, a woman world of stalactites and sta- The site was allegedly dis- The building, which unfortunately is not lovely place to explore, not least with its the Premio Reina Sofia 2013 award for But then came a stroke of luck. Five boys vintage 1980s TV show on the local econ- tried desperately to make me buy a sprig lagmites, sprouting and drip- covered by five local lads in here are Linda open for public visits, is one of four tra- spectacular backdrop of soaring moun- universal accessibility because of its on a bat-hunting trip stumbled upon the omy and Nerja’s reputation. of lavender for five cents. “I’m sorry, but ping into weird and wonderful 1959, when they went hunt- Maria Zima’s top ditional water mills in the town, the other tains and forest. wheelchair friendly ramps and rails. opening to a cave on a hillside above the There is a fishing boat from the show – lavender just won’t go with the jamon in formations, with each flight of ing for bats. After dislodging tips for visitors three are now private houses. The man- Small shops, bars and restaurants can be Just 6km from this gem of a pueblo – and tiny fishing village of Maro, a few miles which revolved around a group of teen- my sandwiches.” There were also massag- stone steps the eerie caverns a couple of stalactites they sion was built in renaissance style for the found hidden away down an alleyway or a delightful walk if you’re up to it – lies the east of Nerja. Vast caverns were revealed, agers summering in Nerja - in the town es and designer watches being flogged to get more impressive. were able to descend into a quirky coastal town of Nerja. with spectacular rock for- centre. tourists - and this is just in March. The ‘phantom hall’ in particu- huge cavern where they found TAKE breakfast in Italica, an This charming resort - the Costa del Sol’s mations of evidence of But it is not just the caves The real joy is found in the small coves just lar – so called because of the skeletons and ceramic pot- ancient coffee bar in Plaza A true Verano Azul fan can make a prettiest (although Marbella and Estepona Paleolithic man. The real joy is and television fame that below the town, or nearby in Maro that you ghoul-like appearance of its tery. The caves were officially Cavana where you will be pilgrimage to the various spots in might argue) - has fought off high-rise de- General Franco himself separate Nerja from the share only with a crazy German who chas- structures – is astounding. opened to the public in the taken back in time. velopment and remains one of Spain’s found in the small The vast caves also boast the summer of 1960. l came to view ‘Cuevas de rest of the Costa’s tourist es seagulls and a young Spanish family. Visit El Salvador church Nerja associated with the programme most upmarket tourist resorts. Nerja’ and coach-loads of coves below the towns. When you sit against a rock, feet dangling, and the Balcon de Europa, It has a distinctly laid back feel about it visitors followed suit. Dur- It has one of the best se- fresh from a ‘swim’ in the late afternoon easily spotted by the 500 lVerano Azul park. Here you find a replica of town or nearby in Chanquete’s home, a battered fishing boat, where the and is far more scenic in terms of its coast- ing the 1970s the boom lections of restaurants on sun, the cove can seem so peaceful you year old tree. Don’t forget line than any of its western rivals. really began with increas- Maro the Costa del Sol. Quality lose track of time. to say hello to King Alfonso ‘pandilla’ (gang) used to meet the old sailor and listen to his wise advice. Plaques around the park depict members of Flanked by the dramatic Sierra Almijara, ing numbers of Europeans is high and at least half a Nerja’s beaches are cut off from the town, XII. Nerja has retained an authentic air in its l the cast coming on holiday. dozen restaurants - includ- they are not backed by a road but by a cliff- Verano Azul park, named narrow winding old town streets, rocky But it took television to really awaken the ing Sollun, Carabeo and the newcomer Fu- face. You can sit on the sand and not see after a famous black and lThe street running by the park is named after Antonio Ferrandis, the actor who coves, powdery sands and glistening wa- rest of Spain to this burgeoning resort. sion - are vying to be the best. any sign of civilisation; just rock-studded white series filmed in Nerja played Chanquete. He died in 2000 ters. Wherever you go in Nerja, a certain name The main plaza and surrounding streets coastline meets blue sea in both direc- in the 70’s, using some lo- l Nowadays it is a tourist hub but not that keeps recurring. There are Verano Azul - centred on the large palm-lined prom- tions. cals as actors. Nerja Town Hall. A portrait in oils of Chanquete hangs in the town hall long ago Nerja was a dirt-poor fishing vil- l (Blue Summer) apartments, a Verano Azul enade of the Balcon de Europa - are alive This is the very best of Nerja and thank You must visit Maro, to lage. It was still well off the map in the late travel agency and bus company, a Verano with activity, but it doesn’t take long to heavens there is one town left that gives the east of Nerja, ‘a small lPaseo Marítimo Antonio Mercero. The road running alongside Burriana beach bears the name of the series director and there is a commemorative plaque 1950s when tourism started taking off Azul park. You may even find a bar serving lose the crowds. a clue as to what the Costa del Sol must village with a big history’. west of Malaga in spots such as Torremoli- a Verano Azul cocktail. There are many miradors with benches have once been like. Right now, a few million Swedes are being hit in the face by an icy wind. Might be good to know if you want to sell your house.

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FastIGHEtsBYRÅN IN NERja / +34-952 521 708 [email protected] / FastIGHEtsBYRaN.sE/ovERsEas 2424 ll about 25 xarquia RIDE OF YOUR LIFE: A trek and A A (right) Jackie and Alain

SPLENDOUR: La Vinuela Having organised horse treks around the Axarquia for five years Alain and Jackie of Finca Don Carmelo know the area’s most beautiful spots. These include: A pair of seasoned hacks l The breathtaking views of Guaro Don’t miss the birthplace of the river Guaro! The area is a hik- gave up journalism to run er’s heaven, and restaurant El Caseron de Guaro is the place If it seems too good to to be for tapas with a view. a horse-riding business, writes Eloise Horsfield l Take a bath with the devil at Baños de Vilo When our cortijo was being renovated and we didn’t have a shower, we came here to take baths in the sulphur spring, which was recently restored with EU money. It’s only a hole in the ground, but the scenery is idyllic with the river running beside it. The water is also good for your skin. be true it probably is. l The old railway line to El Cañuelo La antigua vía is still a landmark even though they took away the rails in 1954. You can just imagine what an incredible jour- StillS I trot along an unused “This is probablyhacking the only road in Periana and through a shady suggests we try a trot – and the ney it must have been, coming by train from the coast to Ventas railway track deep in the the Axarquia with no illegal prop- olive grove. next thing we know the horses de Zafarraya. You can walk all of it, the best stretch though is Axarquia countryside, I erty on it at all,” jokes one of my Meanwhile I learn more about have upped their pace, taking Periana to El Cañuelo, where the ‘mountain bar’ can be found. wonder whether there hosts, Alain Grootaers, of Finca this energetic couple, who his animal as their lead. Ais anything in the world I would Don Carmelo, as we mosey along didn’t think twice about taking Although a little unsettling at l Picnic at Lake Viñuela rather be doing. in the warm, afternoon sun. daughter Julia, then 11, off for first for someone who -– de Don’t risk your wealth. The lake of Viñuela is a reservoir and while swimming isn’t en- And as our gorse-lined route Our route will cover around 15 a year-long trip around Asia be- spite my surname – has never couraged, the splendour of the lake is best enjoyed from the leads us through the Guaro Val- to 18km throughout the day and fore settling in Periana. spent much time on a horse, I picnic area of the little hamlet Las Mayoralas. The ever changing ley – providing a fantastic oppor- take us from 350m to 950km – “People said, ‘Why are you soon feel comfortable with the colours of the water never cease to amaze. If you forgot to bring tunity for vulture and eagle spot- although thankfully the horses burying yourselves in a small quicker rhythm. your picnic you can have lunch at restaurant Las Mayoralas next ting – I realise I have not seen a will do most of the work. Andaluz village?’” says Jako- Back down at walking pace, Alain door. single vehicle since setting off Alain, 49, from Belgium, and his bien, originally from Holland. and Jakobien lead us to a trough from Periana hours before. Dutch wife Jakobien Huisman, “But we didn’t see it like that. where the steeds take turns to l Back in time at Veleta It is pretty incredible for the Ax- 43, left behind city jobs in Ant- It was simply time to do some- enjoy a well-earned slurp – apart Entering Cortijo Veleta is like stepping back in time. Antonio, arquia, where sadly an estimat- werp five years ago to discover thing else.” from Dee who Antonia and their son Jesus are the owners of this old farm- ed 22,000 illegal homes have the idyll of rural Spain, and the Jakobien is a goes straight for house/restaurant. They grow their own veggies and make their been built since the 1990s – of horse lovers now offer an attrac- travel journal- The steeds take some wild mint. own wine and Antonio even made his own furniture from old which up to 8,000 are on pro- tive range of equine treks. ist contributing turns to enjoy a After a downhill We need to talk. olive wood. It’s only open on weekends. If he’s in the mood tected land according to green Shortly after arriving I am intro- regularly to Bel- section, where Antonio will sing you some flamenco at your dinner table. group Ecologistas en Accion. duced to my mare, Deliciosa – gium’s biggest slurp - apart from all our stomach or Dee for short, who like most newspaper, Dee who stops to muscles are of Finca Don Carmelo’s horses Het Laatste eat wild mint given a mini is mixed breed English/Arab. Nieuws, and work-out, we HORSE RIDING EXPERIENCES “We find pure Spanish-blooded Alain is also a grind to a halt horses a bit unpredictable, prolific writer at the village of which is the last thing we want whose achievements include El Canuelo for lunch. for taking out punters,” ex- setting up Belgian men’s mag El Canuelo is a tourism com- FINCA DON CARMELO plains Jakobien, who began rid- P-Magazine back in 1998. plex owned by former London ing at the age of eight. As if running horse treks wasn’t art dealer Edward Crawshaw, PERIANA I am pleased to find Dee poised enough, the pair also pro- where we are spoilt with a lei- and steady, and as Jakobien in- duce organic olive oil which is surely three-course meal as (AT LAKE VINUELA, 20 MINUTES INLAND FROM TORRE DEL MAR) forms me, can even be relied shipped back to upmarket res- we absorb breath-taking views on for her steady appetite. taurants in Belgium. over the lake. “She’ll stop to eat whenever “I made a lot of contacts when “It’s wonderful that Jackie and she gets a chance,” she laughs. I presented a cookery pro- Alain are offering these horse And sure enough, just as we’re gramme for a while,” explains treks because no-one else seems saddled up and about to set off, Alain. to be doing it,” says Crawshaw. Dee saunters over to the nearest Soon we turn onto the stunning And despite a jovial ambiance, we pile of hay and starts tucking in. country road, which in the early are instructed to go easy on the As well as Dee, the couple’s 1900s housed a railway line booze in view of the ‘drive’ back. 14-strong herd also includes ferrying industrial materials to “We don’t want to be over the At Blevins Franks we do not follow fashion foals Alfarnate, Baila and Colo- and from the coast. limit – the same laws apply to rado, plus Jakobien’s 30-year- Today it’s an incredibly pictur- driving a vehicle as they do for old mare which she brought esque track boasting views horses, sadly!” says Alain. for fashion’s sake. Our forthcoming series from Belgium. over Lake Vinuela. “It’s really old for a horse and it “You’d almost expect to see some Finca Don Carmelo offers a of Spring Seminars will discuss this cost a fortune, but I just couldn’t Indians appear from over that range of treks from half-day to bear to part with her,” she says. ridge, wouldn’t you?” jokes Alain. eight-day. Prices start at €60 important issue, as well as key tax and Soon we are off, heading Once we are used to the per person. Over 12s only. See around the pretty village of rhythm of our carriers, Alain www.fincadoncarmelo.com investment concerns for 2014. You will GUIDED HALF DAY TRAIL RIDE (3,5 HRS, INCL TAPAS & DRINKS) find details on our website, or contact us GUIDED FULL DAY TRAIL RIDE (6 HRS, INCL LUNCH) for information or to arrange a private AROUND BEAUTIFUL LAKE VIÑUELA HOTTING UP FTER 27 years providing quality profes- appointment in the meantime. 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They remember him in his of the Axarquía is a herd of birthplace, El Borge. goats, a lorry overloaded with Take a ride up there and witness how the Afarm produce or a hostelry inviting you landscape becomes steeply undulating, to dally for a lazy hour or so. clothed in olive groves and vineyards. But it was not always so. Bandoleros – Several streets are named after revo- or bandits - were once a major feature lutionary heroes such as Che Gue- of life in this area. vara, the legacy of a Colourful types leftwing, anti-monar- though they were, it Disguised as a chy mayor who often did not make the ex- priest, he entered, made headlines with perience of having his controversial deci- your valuables pur- pointed a pistol sions. loined at the point of and made off with The Mudejar-Renais- CAPTURED: a blunderbuss any 100,000 pesetas sance Rosario church Infamous bandit pleasanter. is impressive, with im- El Tempranillo was finally In the years following mense pillars support- captured and kept at the Napoleonic Wars, so lawless were ing its three naves. Look for two holes Venta de Alfarnate (left) the roads that the English writer Richard in the weather-vane atop the church. They were allegedly made by El Bizco’s Ford advised travellers to bring along ‘a streets and at the bottom end of the decent bag of dollars’ to appease any shotgun. weaves its way through the forested The vane had never worked but — after village you find the olive mill where El Montes de Málaga then past lime- highwaymen you might meet. Bizco was born. It has been converted He also suggested carrying an im- he blasted away — it functioned perfectly. stone crags to the Venta de Alfarnate. Otherwise El Bizco’s record is pretty into the Posada del Bandolero, com- First opened in 1691, this inn, stand- pressive-looking watch, noting; “The bining an attractive hotel, restaurant absence of a watch can only be ac- gruesome. With his comrades in crime, ing beneath the rocky buttress of the Frasco Antonio and Manuel Melgares, and museum. At the side of the bar Tajo de Gomer, claims to be the old- counted for by a premeditated inten- you can see the original mill-stones tion of not being robbed of it, which he terrorised the whole area. At times, est in Andalucia. At weekends it is these cut-throats were used by unscru- and a deep well. crowded as ‘domingueros’ (trippers) the ladrón considers as a most unjus- El Bizco’s chum, Melgares, meanwhile tifiable attempt to defraud him of his pulous ‘caciques’, powerful land-own- tuck into roast kid, partridge and pork. ers, to sway local election results. is said to have committed one of his In the past all manner of travellers right.” most daring crimes in Frigiliana (six ki- One of the most notorious 19th-centu- Wander down a maze of narrow stopped here. A plaque notes: “In this lometres inland from Nerja). Venta on April 21 1850 the Mail on the Disguised as a priest, he entered the way to Málaga was stolen by a group of Ingenio, the mansion owned by the 12 armed men. The bandits took particu- Counts of Frigiliana, pointed a pistol lar care to seize a packet of Government at the manager and made off with ceed to scoff the food themselves. prosecutions and criminal lawsuits com- around 100,000 pesetas. Just east of Nerja is the Río de la Miel ing from the Granada chancery.” Today the Ingenio houses the last fac- valley, a delightfully peaceful spot but On one occasion in the 19th century, tory in Europe producing miel de caña once a refuge for smugglers. a horseman rode up as the custom- (molasses), on sale in local shops. When guerrillas landed from North Africa, ers were tucking into gazpacho from a Frigiliana was a flash point in the 1940s they trekked up this valley to their bases common bowl. when anti-Franco guerrillas based in in the mountains and Río de la Miel be- Told there were no spoons left, he used the adjacent sierras sought to provoke came such a breeding ground of resis- the crust of a loaf to scoop up the cold a general revolt. In a bid to discredit tance that it was called ‘Little Russia’. soup — then produced a pistol. them, Franco’s tightly controlled media Almost every village “Now,” he command- labelled them ‘bandoleros’. has some tale to tell El Tempranillo’s ed, “do the same as I If you hike into the mountains with about smugglers or do. Eat your spoons!” their abrupt inclines and deep gorges bandits. Such as Be- claim was: “In They recognised him riddled with caves, you can see how namargosa, up a well- Spain the king as El Tempranillo, An- difficult it was for the Civil Guards to watered valley north- dalucia’s most notori- track the guerrillas. west of Vélez-Málaga. rules, but in the ous bandolero, whose High up, near a pass called the Puerto A couple of centuries sierra I do” claim was: “In Spain de Frigiliana, lie the ruins of the Venta back it was dubbed the king rules, but in Panaderos. Once this inn was a wel- Gibraltar Chico (Little the sierra I do.” RUINED: An old mill in the Rio de la Miel valley once used by smugglers come rest stop for muleteers en route Gibraltar) because the inhabitants They were forced to chew their wooden to Granada and were renowned as smugglers, particu- spoons. a meeting place larly of tobacco. On other occasions, El Tempranillo of footpads, These days Benamargosa likes to think was more gallant. Always courteous, smugglers, guer- of itself as the Oasis of the Axarquía. if he stripped a lady of her best jewel- rillas — and Civil The sheltered environment and benign lery, he would kiss her hand and as- Guards. climate allow tropical fruits such as sure her: “Such a pretty hand needs Locals tell an- mangoes and avocadoes to flourish on no adornment.” ecdotes about the fertile lands bordering its river. Truth to tell, those bandits were hardly how the guards Perhaps most famous for its associa- a bunch of Robin Hoods. Most would would suddenly tion with the lawless past is a lonely have robbed their own grandmothers arrive, discover inn standing on a crossroads at one of given the chance. But time has cast a meals which the the highest points of the Axarquía. romantic aura over them, popular my- guerrillas had To reach it, you take the old road from thology has embroidered their charac- ordered and pro- Málaga to Granada, the A6103. It ters and their memories have been en- shrined in everything from museums to the names of gourmet dishes. Ford maintained that travellers often exaggerated the bandit peril. When he Visionaries inquired about thieves, “according to all sensible Spaniards, it was not on HE largest english-speaking satellite TV the road that they were most likely to company east of Malaga, Techno-Vision of- be found, but in the confessional box- fers a range of solutions to ensure expats es, the lawyers’ offices, and still more can get UK channels. in the bureaux of government.” TTechno-Vision’s qualified engineers provide Bless my soul — some things don’t television solution services for the whole of the change. coast, supplying freeview and satellite channels including BBC, ITV and Channel 4. Learn more about the outlaws in With their extensive range of products, Techno- Francisco Montoro Fernández’s book Vision can provide solutions for full-time resi- Bandoleros de la Axarquía (Acento dents, expats with rental properties, and for Andaluz). David Baird is the author those who divide their time between Spain and of East of Malaga (Santana Books), the UK. the definitive guide to the Axarquía, as well as Sunny Side Up — The 21st The company also offers full after-sales care and century hits a Spanish village and Ty- support. phoon Season. These are distributed For more info visit www.techno-vision.es, or call by Maroma Press (http://maroma- 952 520 946. press.wordpress.com/). 2828 29 ll about 29 A Axarquia April 2 - April 16 2014 An oceanside The Nitty Gritty Distance: 7 km Sensory centre ramble departing Time Required: 2.5hrs T is a community centre with a very big difference. Rating: Easy Su Derrick, who runs La Vaqueria, in Benamargosa, is a from one of Total Height Gain: 225m true livewire of creative energy. All along the Map(s): ING 1:50000 Motril 1055 Aside from the fabulous range of arts and crafts inside the Axarquia’s (19-44) Iher shop, the mother-of-three now counts on a ‘sensory Water: No springs so take plenty garden’ with outdoor sculptures and a eco-herb garden. prettiest villages by There are mosaic mushrooms, a bottle wall of 500 bottles A thirsty mess HE walk begins just beyond the round- and much much more in this work in progress. Guy Hunter-Watts about at the entrance to Maro, on the Derrick arrived in the Axarquia 30 years ago, via France and Torremolinos where she worked as a ‘pavement art- Tom Powell takes a dawn hike western side of the village, next to the the sea. Passing an area where the track Hogar y Centro Social de Maro. From ist’. from Comares watchtower broadens out cut left up a path which leads As well as giving art classes, her enterprising daughter There walk east. As you reach Bar La Entrada steeply up to the Torre de Maro. (40 mins) ROSE early from my bed on the outskirts of turn right along Calle Virgen de las Maravil- Lucy, 19, has recently opened a second hand furniture Leaving the tower head north along a rocky emporium next door. Comares, eager to stretch my legs on one las. The road bears right then left as it skirts track until you reach a point where the pines of the walking routes before getting back in round the edge of the village. Passing Ho- And her fellow siblings Josie, 22 and Ben, 18, are on hand to either side of you become denser. Here to help out and bring a range of their own ideas to the mix. the car. I opted for the Ruta Lavadero, de- tel Casa Romántica de Maro you reach an cut left at a cairn along a narrow path which Iscribed as ‘medium difficulty’. esplanade. Here cut right down a flight of angles down through the trees The gentle dawn stroll through Comares was steps. Passing the old sugar cane factory, to reach a track that cuts down set to the tune of birdsong and a cow mooing HIS 7km walk is among the easiest in the region… and easily one of El Ingenio, you reach the MA138. Turn right towards the N340. Here angle down the mountain somewhere. and follow the road down towards the Playa left along the track back to the I said ‘hola’ to a donkey in a garden and set the most beautiful. de Maro beach for 700m. At a point where A there-and-back ramble with a short loop beyond the Torre de Maro point where you left it earlier off into the rising sun, which was splashing the road loops hard right cut left up a dirt then retrace your steps back fuzzy pinks and oranges over the sierras. The it forms one of series of Axarquia walks in my Coastal Walks of Anda- track. (15 mins) lucía book. to the top of the steps above El route was well signposted… That is unless, T Becoming concreted the track loops right Ingenio. Here turn right along like me, you tend to go running up every rocky The walk begins in Maro, near Nerja, one of the few villages that has es- and reverts to dirt. The Torre de Maro comes the esplanade then continue path to see how the view differs. caped the urban sprawl that you come across in so many places along into view as the track loops hard back to the straight on along Calle Real. Needless to say, within an hour I was pretty Spain’s southen seaboard. left for 75m then reaches a small brick water Reaching a junction and turn- lost and tales of people going walking up in After cutting down towards Maro’s beach – which is worth a quick detour - deposit to the right of the track. Here branch ing left after 250m you return the Axarquia (in particular around Frigiliana) you head on towards the torre through a swathe of irrigated terraces. right along a narrow path which runs beneath to the start point of the walk. (1 and never returning were present in the back Here you will find an amazing spread of banana, avocado, custard fruit and a breeze block wall. Reaching a fork take the hr 40 mins) of my mind. vines being cultivated as well as tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers in the higher, left branch which runs on between I passed just two other people on my hike and plastic-covered greenhouses: you’ll soon see why this part of Andalucía’s greenhouses before descending steeply to Coastal Walks in Andalucía they seemed to be equally struggling with the coast is known as the Costa Tropical. a track. Angling left you pass a ramshackle (ISBN 9-788489-954939) by combination of heat and mountain. A steep climb leads up through pine forest to the Torre de Maro. On a clear house with a cylindrical water deposit. (25 Guy Hunter-Watts contains a The beauty of Comares being atop a mountain day, looking east and west along the coast, you’ll spot other watchtowers mins) Passing right of another house the selection of 50 walks close to though is that you will always know roughly with which this one once communicated, sending warnings by smoke or fire track descends for a short distance between southern Spain’s Atlantic and how to get back there. And so I continued to should a raid by North African corsairs appear imminent. From the tower a groves of avocado and custard fruit as it con- Mediterranean coastlines. tread a path over the rocks, through the pine tours round a barranco. Routes vary in length and dif- forests and past the farms and luxurious short loop leads back to the track you followed earlier from where you return Climbing once more you reach a sign for Pa- to the village past the old sugar cane factory. ficulty but are all within the houses, while always keeping one eye on the raje Natural and a junction. Carry straight capabilities of anybody in resa- white-topped mountain. on, climbing more steeply, to a point where a onable health who walks on a A few hours of glorious hiking later I found track angles up to meet yours from the right. regular basis. The book is avail- myself back on the road into the pueblo; a Here angle hard back to the right and follow able at all good bookshops as sweaty, thirsty mess. a track which gradually angles back towards well as from amazon.co.uk.

Open every day 12:30 to 16:30 - 20:00 until late Calle Los Moros, Velez-Malaga Reservations 951 250 100 30 30 31 31 ll about A Axarquia April 2 - April 16 2014 WHERE TO STAY ROM rural, rustic retreats to charming beachside ho- tels, the Axarquia has got the lot. FBut few places beat the amaz- ing Hotel Carabeo in the heart From boutique of Nerja with its nine romantic rooms, many overlooking the sea. Now well established, the team have given the rooms a complete overhaul this year and, in par- ticular, the top floor suite with its to rustic rural huge spacious outdoor terrace The Axarquia has a great selection of places to stay, discovers Jon Clarke and rolltop bath is a room to die for. be in a better location in the The rooms are fantastic in size sites and restaurants nearby. Another great central spot in Ner- heart of town by the emblematic and you are right next to the ex- If you are looking for something CARING: Christa and Jan at Palacio Blanco ja is Hotel Toboso, which couldn’t Balcon de Europa. cellent Cochrane’s Irish restau- more rural, then few places rant and bar, which is come as luxurious as Cortijo Pil- good for a local meal traque, near Colmenar. RETREAT: Piltraque and (right) a fabulous suite at Hotel Carabeo and has the best ter- Sitting in the most wonderful race in Nerja. location, with some of the best Another wonderful views in Christendom, this won- in a Bed. place to lay down derful spot has been set up by The hotel that came second in your hat is hotel Belgium couple Hubert Deckers the programme coincidentally, Palacio Blanco and Annemie Tielens. Casa los Dos, is also a wonder- in Velez Malaga, He was a well-known chef back ful rural retreat, much nearer to which has been tak- in Belgium, while she was a psy- Competa. en over and much chologist. The Dutch-run B&B sits in a tran- improved by ca- quil spot down a country lane pable Dutch couple between the village and the sea. Jan and Christa. Queen The accommodation is incred- This historic building It is a stylish place where no ibly clean and stylish and you are right in the heart of expense has been spared, in guaranteed a mean breakfast, in this gem of a town particular with its giant solar fact one of the best I have even is stylish and oozes heated swimming pool and had in Andalucia. comfort. expansive bedrooms with roll Also just outside Competa is Breakfast is excellent top baths and beds that cost Hotel Alberdini, where many and this charming €10,000 each and are even rooms come in Gaudi-style ca- professional couple slept on by the Queen of Eng- sitas with spectacular views. go out of their way land, it is said. There is the added advantage to help guests settle They also recently won a Belgium of having an excellent restau- TOP BREAKFAST: Casa los Dos in and recommend equivalent of TV programme Four rant. EXCELLENT: Restaurant and views at Alberdini

Hotel Palacio Blanco is located in the historic district of Velez Malaga, in an over 300 year old moorish monastry which was converted in 2008 to a luxury 9 bedroom boutique hotel, with roof terrace, excercise water jet pool and sundeck with bar. Featured in the BBC program Amazing buildings which followed the whole conversion process.

Prime location in the city centre within walking distance of bars, restaurants, theatre and shops. Rooms with luxury bathrooms and walk in shower, air conditioning, free wifi, international TV, ES,GB,D,B,NL. Perfect for business meetings, weddings or as a private hotel with family and friends. Beach and golf course only 4 kms from the hotel. We speak Dutch, English and German It is all affordable luxury

HotelPalacioBlanco,C/FelixLomas,4,29700Velez-Malaga T:+34952549174M:+34658274528E:[email protected] www.palacioblanco.com 32 32 33 33 ll about A Axarquia WHERE TO EAT TALENT: Juan at Sollun and a dish (below)

TOP OF THE TOWN: Garden Restaurant soars above charming Frigiliana Another highly-rated eaterie is the town into an oasis of calm the ‘most picturesque’ in Spain. ABLE: Carabeo, whose setting could and style. There is a nice range of tapas Fredrik not be improved sitting on de- The food is incredibly fresh too, and a decent range of wines by and Kim sirable Calle Carabeo overlook- with everything made on the the glass. and a TEAM: At Frietkot ing the sea. premises ‘no tricks, just good In Competa try the highly rated creation Well established as a hotel as fresh local produce,’ he explains. Alberdini, where Inez and En- at Fusion Jon Clarke takes well as a tapas bar and res- I could eat his Bunelos of manuel have created a wonder- in Nerja taurant, it is run by the very mushrooms and onion with an ful retreat, both warm in winter a ride around a talented, hard-working English aubergine chutney and mint and breathtaking with its views businessman Lucan and his and lime yogurt sauce every and terrace in summer. rich variety of the sidekick Belen. Axarquia’s best They are big on style and there are some amazing paintings restaurants and a very seductive fin-de- ITH some of the best siecle atmosphere with wood ingredients in Spain panels and leather chairs. there is literally no Lighter bites can be enjoyed at excuse to serve up tapas bar 34, where you will Wbad food in the Axarquia. And eat some amazing prawns in thankfully there is a nice range beetroot jus or the apple and of restaurants serving the best. mincemeat tarts. One of the most exciting recent MELTING Another new Nerja restaurant Freshly Prepared Food openings is that of Swedish is Belgium-owned Frietkot eaterie Fusion, in Nerja. (soon to be renamed), which STYLE: Velez with Uninterrupted Views Set up by Kim and Fredrik Kull- is run by the friendly Aline and mayor and Open: Wednesday til Sunday from 12.00-16.00 berg, a well travelled couple, Nick de Wilde in the heart of owner at El with five children no less, at- POT the old town. Convento, while tention to detail is spot on with noodles and ‘Irish moss’, a (which This capable couple produce tapas (right) fresh flowers, candles and dish- dish you really want to jump he asks some Belgium classics including at charming 952 53 31 85 www.thegardenfrigiliana.com es to match. on, both spicy and succulent at not to men- fantastic prawns with red pep- Carabeo Calle del Santa Cristo, 29788, Frigiliana, Nerja, Malaga It is exactly what it says on the the same time, as well as the tion) before fall- ing out pers and garlic, superb mussels tin, a fusion eaterie that takes wild boar hot pot with shitake with its owner and setting up with pesto and gratin, and best in Fredrik’s influences from mushrooms, exciting, original alone in Nerja. of all Belgium stew in beer. day for lunch they were that A cultured pair, vegetables are around the world, in particular and tender. The food is light and original, delicious. locally sourced and the kitchen three years living in Thailand. Another fabulous Nerja restau- including a beetroot and straw- Over in Velez Malaga you must is certainly adventurous. Formerly the head chef at rant Sollun has been produc- berry ‘porra’ in a vinaigrette Oasis look out for the stunning re- In Puente don Manuel mean- footballer Tomas Brolin’s res- ing consistently some of the with mackerel. Heading out of Nerja to the cently converted El Convento. while, you will find the Town taurant Undici, in Stockholm, best food in Nerja for years. Other highlights are his pork nearby Bodegas village Bentomiz’sof Frigiliana— The Installed Best in inan Spain?old convent, Fryer— serving up the best fish Recently moved to a new spot cheeks, with sweet potato you would be mad to miss the he produces some top dishes, surprise surprise, with high ceil- and chips for miles and the including a lovely plate of fresh on Calle Pintada it is named and honey, parsnips and wild amazing Garden Restaurant, ings andBuy beautifully these fabulous preserved wines recentlydirect from opened the BodegaBar Rendez - foie on toast with rocket salad after owner Juan’s two children mushrooms, his splendid scal- run by the incredibly capable features, local businessman vous, great for all day break- and a blackberry reduction. Sol and Luna. lops with pork belly and cauli- Rob Grimmond. AriyanasJose Manuel...or Garrido book has a Winetastingpulled Wines fast and fresh Tour food ...by the day. There is a lot of experimental Originally from Albacete, he flower and the amazing white A regular visitor to the village a real rabbit out of a hat Andhere. FindHere, Out! friends of 25 years Sue stuff here too including the famously set up a Michelin chocolate desert, with yogurt, for 30 years he has turned this It has a lovely outdoor terrace and Jackie, who previously ran tuna in poppyseeds with soba starred restaurant in Marbella cheese and passion fruit. lovely leafy spot at the top of and sits on a streetTel: twice +34 voted 952 the 11 catering 59 39 at Castle Combe race circuit, put on a splendid M: +34 658range 845 of285 dishes, including the o Tour and & Tasting: only classic€5,00 ppRendezvous (min. €40) Royale, A Michelin basically bubble and squeak Tapas Tour & Tasting: only topped€9,00 pp with (min. a poached 8 people) egg and crispy bacon. s llUn starred wine Bodegas Bentomiz is 5 min fromFinally make sure not to miss Sayalonga on the road to Cómpetathe nearby: Morenos, which is A small Axarquia winery is now look for the sign. an upmarket spot now with its own pool table. producing six wines served in For more information call us or visit: Extremely popular with locals it

www.bodegasbentomiz.comhas a great selection of food and 28 leading restaurants in a bar snacks. It is also popular for dozen countries its nightlife and various live acts. FRIENDS: Jackie and Sue at Rendezvous T is one of the most stylish buildings in the Ax- arquia. Sitting half way up an impossibly steep hill with Classical Mby eJdiutarnr aLneuainnt Fanoioldla amazing views, it is from here that a Dutch Iwine producing couple have taken their wine to the world. Bodegas Bentomiz is now selling its wines in AWARD WINNING: Modern Bentomiz Bodegas Bentomiz’s— The Best in Spain? — 28 Michelin-starred restaurants in 12 countries RESERVATIONS: globally. And its six wines, three whites, two reds fied wines in their temperature-controlled stain- Buy these fabulous wines direct from the Bodega 653 68 94 52 and a rose have won many awards. less steel tanks. They also produce a red from Here, Clara Verheij and André Both have rescued a blend of grapes: Petit Verdot, Tempranillo and Ariyanas...or book a Winetasting Wines Tour... EMAIL: [email protected] the abandoned vineyard above which they built Romé, a little known vine indigenous to the Ax- And Find Out! their home. arquía. (Closed Mondays) Recognising the enormous potential of the local They named their aromatic wines Ariyanas, after Tel: +34 952 11 59 39 Moscatel de Alejandría vines, they have had rave a nearby Moorish hamlet, which comes from the reviews from wine journalists and sommeliers. Arabic word for aromatic. M: +34 658 845 285 The pair got their wine known by taking mini Eu- ropean tours to wine fairs and celebrated restau- Tour and & Tasting: only €5,00 pp (min. €40) Aromatic rants, getting an 85% success rate. “If the som- The Axarquía’s unique terroir such as the vine- Tapas Tour & Tasting: only €9,00 pp (min. 8 people) melier tried our wine, the restaurant purchased yards steep slopes and the closeness of the sea, it!” says Clara. all provide an ideal microclimate for the grapes. Why not come up for yourself, as Clara explains: Bodegas Bentomiz is 5 min from The vines – some over 100 years old - are grown “Visitors enjoy seeing the vineyard and get an Sayalonga on the road to Cómpeta: C/Pintada 23, 29780, nerja, Malaga in hollows to collect water, and are cut back to understanding of how the wines are developed – look for the sign.

bushes, so that the leaves protect the maturing before enjoying the wines with a guided tasting. For more information call us or visit: grapes from that scorching summer sun. For larger groups we offer home-made tapas, André and Clara have invested heavily in modern each paired with a particular wine.” www.bodegasbentomiz.com equipment and make naturally sweet or unforti- www.bodegasbentomiz.com www.sollunrestaurante.com 34 34 35 35 ll about A Axarquia April 2 - April 16 2014 PROPERTY FOCUS ON NERJA The best properties are selling in Nerja in record time, discovers Tom Powell Magical market

PROPERTY SPECIALISTS: Lawyers Nacho and Sabina at Lex Iuris, team at Fastighetsbyran and Linda Maria Zima (right) from Inter Sales Nerja

sea view, and not in need da Maria Zima, of freelance of work, currently costs estate agency Intersale ITH its charming es at an all time low; there is hotting up in Nerja recently, between €200,000 and Nerja. mix of Andalucian no time like the present to up agrees lawyer Nacho Esco- €250,000. “It holds its prices more than spirit and interna- sticks and move to this ‘magi- bar. Nerja is free from the con- other coastal towns because tional vibes, Nerja cal’ town. His company Lex Iuris cur- crete high-rises that have there isn’t a lot of property Wis steadily becoming one Christina Bergsten, of Swed- rently has half a dozen sales helped lower property prices and it is a bit special with its of the most desirable up- ish estate agency Fastighets- going through, some 10% in other coastal resorts, but low rise buildings, mountains market tourist towns on the byran, says: “We are selling more than last year. “It is this does mean buyers must and coves,” adds Zima, who coast. very well.” excellent news,” adds the pay more than they would in arrived in Nerja with her Por- Homes with large terraces “Sometimes the best proper- lawyer, who covers the entire Torremolinos or Calahonda. tuguese husband 30 years and sea views – for those ties are sold before they have Axarquia area. “Nerja is steadily and sub- ago. have been predominantly who can afford it - are partic- even been advertised!” A standard two bedroom tly becoming an up-market Those buying property in Scandinavian over recent ularly popular. And with pric- Certainly things have been home with a terrace and coastal town,” believes Lin- Nerja, Frigiliana and Torrox years, although more re- cently many British people have been returning to the market. Escobar from Lex Iuris agrees. “The British are defi- Better nitely coming back after sev- en years away.” Nerja’s particular appeal is not only in its multitude of mix coves and beaches backed T has been the best start to by cliffs and not a main the year since Tim Whiteley road, but by the friendli- launched his estate agency ness of its Spanish resi- Villa Solutions 12 years dents. Iago. “Nerja is also beautiful, it has And while declining to dis- the Andalucian style and is cuss actual numbers, the very charming,” adds Berg- agent, based in Puente don sten, who has lived in Spain Manuel, insists the mix of since she was seven and buyers in his inland Axar- moved to the Axarquia 20 quia area is better than ever be- years ago. fore. “We have got a good mix of English, Dutch, Germans, Scandinavians and Belgiums. They have been my sav- Property fairs iour. “Expats are lured by the ap- “They are so different to the British buyers and buy in peal of skiing in the Sierra the right way. They always take notes and photos and Nevada in the morning, then look carefully at the quality and value of the build, as sunbathing on the beach lat- well as the pool.” er that afternoon.” Ultimately it has led to a ‘more cosmopolitan mix’ And Fastighetsbyran, who to the area. “I expect to see a Belgium bar open- have ten offices across ing soon,” adds the agent, who has 230 properties Spain, have been operating on his books in a roughly 15 mile radius around in Nerja since September the town, including Periana, Alcaucin and Canil- 2011 and receive most cli- las. ents through their website Aside from becoming well known for offering a snail and property fairs in Swe- farm to clients on a hit TV programme in 2004, White- den. ley is also known again for negotiating the sale of a Linda Maria, from Carlisle property owned by pop star Mikey Graham of Boyzone in England but has lived this year. in Spain for 30 years, con- It began with TV show A Place in Spain, in 2004, when cludes: “I have seen Nerja he tried to find Welsh couple Lee and Cheryl the per- grow from 12,000 people fect home to buy in the Axarquia. to 25,000 people regis- “But I straight away realised that satisfying their lim- tered, and there are many ited budget and ideas was going to be a difficult task,” more that need to register. explains the estate agent, 35. “The town draws really cultur- That said, the publicity was fantastically good for the al and professional people. It company, which ended up featuring in 10 episodes of is a great mix and I am very the show. happy here.” “Clients still ask me about the snail farm and how it is doing,” explains the father-of-one, from Wilt- For more info contact www. shire. fastighetsbyran.se or www. intersalesnerja.com. Nacho Visit www.villasolutions.net Escobar can be reached at [email protected] 36 36 37 37 ll about xarquia A A April 2 - April 16 2014 By John McCann, Senior Partner, Blevins Franks VER the last 15 years The end of there have been a number of initiatives to clamp down on off- Oshore tax evasion, each one whittling away at financial pri- vacy as we knew it. Now we will see the introduction of global automatic exchange of finan- financial cial information. The 2008 financial crisis prompted governments, des- perate to increase tax revenue, to renew the campaign against offshore tax evasion. Off- shore centres fell into line and privacy around 1,100 new tax infor- nounced their intention to ex- 2.Besides banks, custodians, from January 2015, introduces mation exchange agreements change FATCA-type information brokers, certain collective in- automatic exchange on em- were signed. and promote it as the global vestment vehicles and certain ployment income, director’s These are agreements between system of automatic informa- insurance companies need to fees, life insurance products, I had a dream two jurisdictions and generally tion exchange. Over 40 juris- report. pensions and immovable prop- provide for information provided dictions have since joined the 3.Reportable accounts cover erty. Peter Langdale on how he on request. Last year saw a piv- pilot group. those held by individuals and The EU is also closer to reach- set up his business Garden otal move to multilateral agree- In September, G20 leaders entities such as trusts. ing agreements with Switzer- ments, where several countries announced plans to introduce Financial institutions will de- land, Liechtenstein, Andorra, la Palma in Velez Malaga share vital information. This automatic exchange of infor- termine the residence of each Monaco and San Marino on will happen automatically each mation as the global standard. client and collect data on their their revision of their savings HAD a dream. The year was 1985, Spain was year, regardless of whether Then in February, the Organisa- assets and income. This will be agreements. entering the European economic community, someone is suspected of tax tion for Cooperation and Devel- forwarded to the tax authorities How could the loss of financial and I wanted my own business. evasion or not. opment (OECD), working with in the clients’ country of resi- privacy affect you? Is your tax Being a third generation market gardener, a In 2010 the US enacted its For- the G20, released the Com- dence. planning fully compliant? Are Ipioneer in iceberg lettuce production, mixed with eign Account Tax Compliance mon Reporting Standard cover- your assets as tax efficient a little experience of growing in southern Portu- Act (FATCA), which requires ing the rules to be imposed on as possible? International tax gal, the future in Spain looked a possibility for foreign financial institutions to global financial institutions. EU developments planning is very complex these such an adventure. report account details of Amer- The Standard is specifically The Savings Tax Directive is be- days; it is essential to seek spe- After a two week intensive Spanish language icans to the US authorities. designed with a broad scope ing revised to cover investment cialist advice. course, our house sold and furniture stored, my DREAM: Peter’s massive nursery and Working with the G5 (Spain, across three dimensions: funds, pensions and innovative wife Gill, daughter Victoria (not quite four years (top) his team picking parsley UK, France, Germany and Italy), 1.The financial information to financial instruments, and cap- To keep in touch with the lat- old) and I boarded the ferry at Dover. they developed a model for the be reported includes all types ture payments made through est developments in the off- From those early days we grew to be one of the ‘intergovernmental agreement’ of investment income, and ac- trusts. shore world, check out the lat- Unexplained Axarquia’s foremost horticultural businesses to be used to implement FATCA. count balances and sales pro- The revised Administrative Co- est news on our website www. and saw many changes over this period. In April 2013, the G5 an- ceeds from financial assets. operation Directive, to apply blevinsfranks.com Some 16 days later just as the sun was setting I As I cast my mind back I see a very different arrived on a farm at Trapiche, near Velez Malaga, Velez. If I dwell upon the farming back in 1986, in the heart of the Axarquia. most notable was the production of sugar cane. An unexplained gut feeling persuaded me that Working sugar mills were still going strong in this was the starting line for us. Velez-Malaga, Frigiliana and Salobreña. During Many Olive Press readers know this it as Finca La late April and May the sky would turn black as Palma, the site of the Tuesday Farmers market. the cane was cleaned out by burning, prior to be- ing harvested. Unfortunately what goes up must come down and so all the ash that went skywards began A very international to fall wherever the wind took it. (family) affair Iceberg lettuce full of cane ash was not a good selling point! All the cane was hand-cut and for hand-loaded onto the trucks to 2 1 be taken to the mills. The men carrying out this work had to be incredibly fit as it Buy 2 glasses - pay for 1 was physically very demanding and incredibly dirty. They were as equally black from head to toe as any coal miner with their Applies to all frames in the store and all only recompense, the hope of being the highest paid field workers in the comarca. types of lenses. Readers. How many of you have just bought strawberries? Remember, you can share the offer with a friend. No doubt many of you, and these berries, like hundreds of tonnes more, will almost certainly have been produced in the area around Huelva and Almonte. 28 years ago this was not the case, with the Axarquia being the biggest exporter of straw- SUCCESS: Peter and Heiko berries. LREADY a heavyweight with opticians shops in a num- The Trapiche based co-opera- ber of Europe’s big cities, Heiko Stumbeck raised quite tive TROPS, now known world- a few eyebrows when he opened up a shop in the Ax- wide for its avocados and man- arquia. goes was founded on the straw- AThe addition of Optica Heiko by Heiko in Torre del Mar in 2003 berry business. came about after one particularly nice break in the area. In the spring of 1987 this co- The family had often been on holiday in the village of Cajiz, operative produced and export- near Velez Malaga, and Heiko fancied trying his chances in the ed in excess of 3,000 tonnes area. of strawberries along with im- The young German - who designed and produced his own spec- portant quantities of fine round Avenida Andalucía 119 tacles - had opened his first opticians in Denmark at the age beans. (Now imported fron Ke- of 30. nya). Torre del Mar He went on to open branches of his company in Berlin, Ham- As the strawberry crops disap- Peter Trini burg and Paris, as well as little Torre del Mar. peared the majority of the land Telephone: 952 967 923 The shop in Torre, with one of largest and best quality ranges of used was planted with avoca- Hejnfelt Jiménez glasses on the Costa del Sol, is now run by his son Peter. dos and later probably man- www.heikobyheiko.es Peter, who owns the shop, studied to become an optician in goes. Copenhagen, and apart from a few years in the Danish army, The development of these We speak your language he has always worked as an optician. crops I will leave for another He speaks German, English, Swedish, Norwegian and Spanish. chapter and another day. 38 LARGEST & BIGGEST SPAIN’S Have IPTV PROVIDER SAVE YOUR you lost your favourite Channels

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