AUGUST 2015

Japan’s number one English language magazine

INSIDE: Walking the Wakayama Fire Festival, Remembering Flight 123, Weighing the Military Option, Craft Beer in Japan,www.tokyoweekender.com and Much More... AUGUST 2015 AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 CONTENTS 20

FIRE FESTIVAL Participants in Wakayama’s Nachi no Ogi celebrate the flames

10 14 18

ARTICLE 9 CRAFT BEER AKITA FESTIVALS Listening to two perspectives on Abe’s The artisan suds movement gets brewing Historical floats unite generations and military move in the Land of the Rising Sun neighborhoods alike

6 The Guide 16 Beaches in Hayama 24 People, Parties, Places Classy looks, cool drinks, and a trip to the A laid-back, upscale take on the Shonan Backstage with Bill and Arnold and a tour of right side of the tracks seaside scene the Tokyo’s international galas 8 Art Around Town 17 Akita Dining “Namahage” 28 Previews An explosive artist in Yokohama and a Rustic northern fare in one of Tokyo’s Vicious dinosaurs, foul-mouthed teddy “barefoot” composer in Bunkamura most well-heeled districts bears, and Tom Cruise all get sequels 12 JAL Flight 123 22 Reebok CLASSIC Store 30 Agenda Thirty years after an air disaster, a Harajuku’s Cat Street welcomes a new Fireworks, Festivals, Summer Sonic, and community reflects and remembers home for old-school sneakers the mighty mighty Udon Battle

www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 THIS MONTH IN THE WEEKENDER

movement in Japan may inspire you to AUGUST 2015 refresh yourself the old-fashioned way. AUGUST 2015 August also marks the anniversary Japan’s number one English language magazine of two major events in Japan’s history. Thirty years ago, an air disaster shocked the country, as JAL Flight 123 went down in the mountains of Gunma, taking with it 520 souls during the Publisher BC Media Group Obon season. But as our conversations Chairman Ray Pedersen with a scholar of the crash and the daughter of one of its victims show, Executive Producer Asi Rinestine growth and understanding also rose Editor Alec Jordan from this terrible event. Art Director Liam Ramshaw In 1945, World War II was brought to an end, and a new Japanese Media Director Kotaro Toda Constitution was put in place. A Account Executives Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa standout of this document was Article Media Consultants Mary Rudow 9, which decreed that Japan would wage

Sophia Bai INSIDE: Walking the Wakayama Fire Festival, Remembering Flight 123, Weighing the Military Option, Craft Beer in Japan,www.tokyoweekender.com and Much More... AUGUST 2015 no more wars and raise no more armies. Chris Zajko But as the 70-year anniversary of ell, you don’t need us to Japan’s surrender approaches, the Abe Marketing Ingrid Dubreuil tell you: you know it from Yumi Idomoto administration is setting out to increase the mornings that have W the country’s military capability, a move you bathed in sweat before Society Bill Hersey that has raised protests—both inside and you’re dressed, the hot soup that’s outside the walls of the National Diet Lead Writer Matthew Hernon passing for air, and the spring that’s Building. We hope that two perspectives taken right out of your step: these are Editorial Associates Vivian Morelli from either side of the debate will get the dog days of summer. Sarah Custen you thinking about a question that But like our cover picture proves, Kyle Mullin doesn’t have easy answers. sometimes the best way to beat the heat We can’t say we’re fans of the word Intern Yuna Uemaru is to simply embrace it, as participants ganbatte, but sometimes with this heat, in Wakayama Prefecture’s celebrated Film Christopher O’Keeffe that’s the best you can do. Stay cool, and Fire Festival do. At the very least, see you in September. IT Manager Nick Adams seeing the celebrants of the Nachi no Ogi matsuri tote 50-kilogram torches up a mountain path may make you realize that you’re not quite as hot as you think you are. And if that doesn’t EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 help you cool off, then a few draughts of knowledge about the craft beer Editor Published monthly at the Regency Shinsaka Building, 5th floor 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 (03) 6666-4924 / (03) 6432-9229 (fax) [email protected]

To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6666-4924 or email: [email protected]

For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6666-4924 or email: [email protected] WRITERS WANTED www.tokyoweekender.com Tokyo Weekender is looking for a few good writers. If Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors you’ve got a travel story you want to share, a gift for the are not necessarily those of the publisher written word, or have a unique take on life in Tokyo, we’d like to hear from you. To join our team of freelancers, please send us an email at [email protected]

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VALENTINO ROCKSTUD FLATS A lot dressier than a basic summer sandal but just as comfortable, those strappy shoes are all you need this season to look chic and put-together. While it’s tempting in the hot summer months to just slip on a pair of flip-flops, Tokyo doesn’t really do casual anything, so don’t get caught in inappro- priate footwear. These Valentino Rockstud flats are equal parts edgy, sophisticated, and gentle on the feet with a flat sole. Wear them during daytime to dress up shorts and a plain T-shirt, or with a tunic for those warm summer nights. Although they come in an array of colors, this textured bronze version is our top pick. www.shopbop.com

ALICE + OLIVIA MINI DRESS DOLCE & GABBANA This embellished mini dress is a BROCADE SHORTS must-have for our August wardrobe: There’s a lot to love about those shorts: first it’s shiny, colorful, and the plunging of all, they could easily pass for a skirt, which neckline reveals just enough. The means you can wear them for a dressy event pattern is made out of sequins and or to sit on the ground for a picnic and still beads and crafted from creme crepe. feel comfortable. Secondly, the material is a Sequins are a bit too heavy for day- combination of silk and cotton, which makes time wear, but this dress is ideal for a them lightweight for those boiling August days. nighttime cocktail party or to attend There’s also the brocade pattern, a tonal blue a summer wedding, The best part print that’s seemingly inspired by traditional is, it doesn’t need many accessories Italian Maiolica pottery—not a surprise consid- since it’s so striking on its own. Wear ering it’s a design from Italian fashion house it with flat sandals and a gold clutch Dolce & Gabbana. Pair them with a simple, to complement the metallic hues… flowy white blouse, rose gold jewelry and sim- and a glass of bubbly in hand. ple flat shoes for a perfect summer look. www.aliceandolivia.com www.dolcegabbana.com

LOG ROAD, DAIKANYAMA ver wonder what happened to the old Tokyu line tracks at Daikanyama Sta- Etion? You’ll barely recognize them now, as the rails have been turned into a lush green space complete with lots of fragrant wood, food, beer and high-end clothing. Log Road is quickly turning out to be one of our favorite spots to hit this summer: start off with a craft beer at Kirin’s Spring Valley Brewery, hailing from Kamakura. Then revamp your wardrobe at LA’s Fred Segal, or sit down and indulge on an upscale doughnut from Camden’s Blue Star, with flavors like Mexican Hot Choco- late, Cointreau Creme Brûlée and Blueberry Bourbon Basil. Address: 13 Daikanyama, Shibuya-ku Web: www.logroad-daikanyama.jp

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com MISFIT FLASH LINK Wearables are a thing: Just ask anybody who shelled out for an Apple Watch Edition. But, wearables often tend to be terribly complicated, terribly expensive, Something for the weekend...A terribly terrible or a mixture of all three. cocktail guide for the most Misfit’s Flash Link aims to not be any of those three things. It’s essentially a discerning of drinkers plastic, back-to-basics version of their ugust is upon us once more and a quick fancier “Shine.” It’s still a stylish piece check of the thermometer will confirm of kit and using the excellently designed that our fair city has transformed from Misfit apps, you can track activity, sleep a temperate, sophisticated metropolis and calories burned, and control your Ainto a seething mass of sweating unfortunates. For music, camera and presentations with a those not lucky enough to have summer retreats physical button. Dropping in at between in the breezy mountains to escape to, the most ¥4500 and ¥5000, depending on where pressing concern is how to stay cool in this most you look, it’s cheap enough that you’ll inhospitable of climates. actually want to use it when you work However, fear not: help is at hand, for this is out. misfit.com/products/flash the season where the art of cocktail truly comes into its own. This month we will be traveling to Kentucky in the heart of Old Dixie to quench our thirst with possibly the ultimate summer cocktail, the Mint Julep. THANKO INSECT BITE HEALER The Julep has been a favourite of southern gentleman for over 300 years, and those chaps It’s summer, and the bugs are out. Whether you intend know a thing or two about how to stay cool in hot to go out into the mountains to commune with nature or climates (mainly by sitting on a porch and necking drink in the sun in Yoyogi Park, ou’re likely to get ravaged cocktails out of a silver cup while watching other by mosquitoes, and other creepy crawlies that are out for people do all the hard work). your blood. Thankfully, Thanko, the company that makes Nonetheless, despite the negative associations a gadget for just about every conceivable situation, has an between Mint Juleps and fat-bellied plantation electronic insect bite healer. It is a battery operated device owners, the drink itself really is a true work of art. that has a heating element that gets up to 50℃, which, The combination of sweet caramel tones from the when pressed to a bite, reduces the bloodflow and thus bourbon, the merest suggestion of bitterness from itching… or so they say. At ¥2480 it’s priced at a point that the Angostura and the crisp refreshing odour of one is tempted to give it a try. It’s a small price to pay to the mint is an absolute delight. ensure that, when you’re fighting off the Dengue fever, So if you’re struggling to keep your cool this after that party in Yoyogi park, the bite that brought it month, remember that true refreshment can be won’t be itchy. thanko.jp found for the price of a decent bourbon, a handful of ice and a fist full of mint. Bottoms up, y’all...

Method: Place 5 or 6 leaves of mint in the bottom of a chilled julep cup or highball glass. Add sugar syrup and gently bruise the mint with a muddler. Half fill the cup with cracked ice and pour in the bourbon. Stir briskly until the glass frosts. Fill the cup to the top with more ice and stir again before serving. Garnish with a few sprigs of mint.

Ingredients: - 5–6 fresh mint leaves - 2 1/2 shots of Makers Mark - 3/4 Shot of Sugar Syrup - 3 dashes of Angostura bitters

SONY RX100 MARK IV The premium compact camera market was always either gimped to force customers toward the bigger cameras or limited by the lack of quality components. The first cam- era to really get the balance right was the now-venerable Sony RX100. 2015 brings the fourth version of this tiny powerhouse of a camera, with an incremental, but important upgrade. Physically, it’s almost identical to the Mark III, but internally, it gains 4K video recording, super slow motion (960 fps: 4 seconds becomes 3 minutes) and faster, more accurate autofocus. With its extremely pocketable size, you’d be hard pressed to find a better imaging device on the market. Still on the fence? The back screen can be flipped 180 degrees, which will make for some epic quality selfies. www.sony.net

www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 GALLERY GUIDE TOKYO GALLERY GUIDE OUR PICKS FROM THE EXHIBITIONS AROUND TOWN

by Sarah Custen

Motion Science

eiichi Hishikawa is best in the digital society,” according known for corporate to Hishikawa’s official Director’s advertisements and the Statement. He goes on, “We hope opening sequences of NHK’s that, in this modern age overflow- historicalS drama series: his work ing with information, the exhibi- represents big ideas and even bigger tion will become an opportunity audiences. to rethink...from a perspective of Yet he started the “Motion ‘motion.’” Science” experience with a blank The exhibition follows an slate. “When Mr. Hishikawa was open flow, including many offered [the position] as exhibition behind-the-scenes looks at the director, the content was not yet mechanisms of how works are determined,” said 21_21 DESIGN made. Children and adults alike SIGHT PR representative Shotaro are invited to touch, listen, walk Okada. “He built the main idea through, witness and otherwise while researching with others.” explore the space around them. Indeed, the exhibitions moving “Visitors can play while learning and interactive works were born the structure of the works,” said of Hishikawa’s collaboration with Okada, explaining that Hishikawa Exhibition view (Photo: Keizo Kioku) companies, creators and students, doesn’t view making things as focussing on exploring and ex- a “black box.” This is David Ma- 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT plaining gravity, wavelength and caulay’s “The Way Things Work” Dates: June 19–September 27, 2015 inertia, phenomena which “are not come to life. Open: 10:00–19:00; closed Tuesdays yet completely understood, even Web: www.2121designsight.jp/en/program/motion_science/

Cai Guo-Qiang: There and Back Again

lowery phrases and careful- vision from destructor to creator, ly-chosen words cannot do rendering canvases and sculptures that justice to this exhibition: Life- are more reminiscent of fireworks than like wolves fly through the firearms. “Although Cai seems to use Fair by the dozens, gunpowder dusts the form of Western art presentations, and shades ceramics, and colors and such as installation or performance art, lines explode across massive canvases, his presentation is a sort of ritual in the bursting into life in the shapes of context of ancient Chinese art, ‘Yushu,’” flowers, lovers, animals, art. explained Naoaki Nakamura, Senior Born in China, practiced in Japan Curator for the Yokohama Museum and now living in New York City, Cai of Art. “By transforming the symbolic Guo-Qiang works most often with motif of the place where his work is gunpowder, one of China’s “Four Great manufactured and presented, Cai gives Inventions.” Used for centuries in new meaning to the motif and exhibits weaponry and warfare, this explosive it in a metaphorical manner.” The Deutsche Bank Collection, Photo by KAMIYAMA Yosuke , Installation view of is transformed through Cai’s brilliant Head On, Yokohama Museum of Art, 2015. 99 life-sized replicas of wolves and glass wall. Wolves: gauze, resin, and hide Dimensions variable Yokohama Museum of Art Dates: July 11–October 18, 2015 Open: 10:00–18:00; closed Thursdays Web: yokohama.art.museum/special/2015/caiguoqiang/english.html

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com GALLERY GUIDE | ART | 9

Erik Satie and His Time

rik Satie and His Time” is a lighthearted yet fascinating presentation, approaching the composer tangentially by exploring the rich collection of artistic and cultural relationships thatE influenced his musical life and compositions. Nestled inside the delightfully faux-French Bunkamura building in Shibuya, the Museum offers a pleasant respite from summer’s thick heat. Slow, sleepy, sweet music follows you as you glide from room to room, tracing Satie’s career from his early days in Montemartre through his achieve- ment and acclaim as an innovative composer. Soft melodies float and fade, replaced by others, gently beckoning you onward, from big, bold cabaret posters (the unmistakable work of Jules Chéret and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec), through well-preserved scores and manuscripts in Satie’s neatly ornate art nouveau hand, to photos and videos capturing his modernist years, all the while subtly name-dropping the artists and movements to which Satie was closely linked. Familiar faces and names line the walls, offering a kaleidoscopic vision of Satie, rendered in myriad portraits by artists and friends like Constantin Brancusi and Man Ray. Picasso is there, with a micro gallery of sketches, gouache and watercolors, followed by Jean Cocteau, Georges Braque and André Derain. Yet the associations never feel showy, but rather intimate, a closeness which is reinforced through the display of affects from Satie’s daily life, including his ubiquitous bowler hat.

The Museum at Bunkamura Dates: July 8–August 30, 2015 Open: Sun–Thurs, 10:00–19:00; Fri & Sat until 21:00 Web: www.bunkamura.co.jp/english/museum/

Jules Grün, Foreigner’s Guide to Montmartre, 1900 Lithograph on paper, Musée de Montmartre, Collection Société d’Histoire et d’Archéologie“Le Vieux Montmartre”

www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 WEIGHING THE POWERS OF WAR

by Alec Jordan

As the 70th anniversary of the end of World War II approaches, Japan also stands on the verge of substan- tially changing its military capability. Article 9 of the post-war Japanese Constitution states that the country is not allowed to engage in war or establish armed forces. However, the Abe administration has recently put forth a series of bills that would extend Japan’s powers to engage in armed conflict. The bills, which include a reinterpretation of Article 9, have already been approved by the lower house of parliament, and as of the time of publishing, are being debated by the upper house. With these events in mind, we spoke with two academics who stand on different sides of the issue as they weighed in on the historical background of the Constitution and Article 9, the limits of their interpreta- tion, and Japan’s attitude towards its neighbors in Asia.

Dr. Asaho Mizushima

What do you think about the approach that the LDP has taken with this section of the defense bills? The LDP approach is completely wrong. Article 9 in the Japanese Constitution entirely denies the formation of a military or war poten- tial. However, 61 years ago, the Japanese government approved the Self-Defense Forces (Jieitai), saying that Article 9 doesn’t waive the inherent right to self-defense, and it allows the government to possess the minimum level of actual force needed to exercise that right. In oth- er words, the government explained that since the Self-Defense Forces are not an army, having one does not violate Article 9. This is the key logic that they have used to justify the existence of the Self-Defense Forces until now. ...However, if the right to collective-self defense is permitted, if any one foreign country is under attack, Japan is allowed to counterattack even if it was not directly attacked. This contradicts the very reason that the SDF was explained as constitutional....Nevertheless, last year, by a single cabinet decision, the Abe administration changed the inter- pretation of the Article 9 to permit the right to collective-self defense [in July 2014; the current defense bills are based on this interpreta- tion]. This is an outrageous breakaway from the theory and practice of the past 60 years.

What do you make of the idea that the defense bills are intended to help protect Japan? After the war, most Japanese people have seen that, thanks to Article 9, there have been no more wars, and that is why they gladly wel- comed [Article 9]. It’s been almost 70 years [since the establishment of the Constitution], and you could see Article 9 in one of in two ways. One is a means of control from the outside world that prevents Japan from starting a war. The other is to see that Japan has been involved in world peace without influencing military power actively—by ac-

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com Dr. Asaho Mizushima is a Professor at Wase- cepting the fact that the Article 9 is a means of da University’s School preventing Japan from starting wars. To me, it Dr. Toshio Nishi of Law. Formerly a is this second one that is most important. What’s your reaction to the de- professor at Sapporo fense bills currently going through Gakuin University and After 70 years since the end of Parliament? Hiroshima University, Mizushima is an World War II, what do you think Ja- I was studying at the National Archives and expert in the field of constitutional law, pan’s attitude towards its neighbors legal policy theory, and peace studies. He should be? I read declassified papers that had just been opened up for the first time. I went through is currently doing research on post–Cold Japan has been contributing to world peace so many documents and it was shocking: War peace and security and the theory of for more than 70 years. Nonetheless, some of those papers, telegrams, and secret reports constitutional reform. the people in the current government have... [Between members of the U.S. administra- said “what Japan did was right—[the] war was tion] had no abstract language. There was no Dr. Toshio Nishi is right.” [This would stand against the spirit of mention of peace, or harmony, or humanity. a research fellow at official statements of apology, such as those by It was almost all virtually “Can I use him? the Hoover Institution former Prime Minister Tomiichi Murayama Should he be kept alive, or hanged?” and a Professor at and former Chief Cabinet Secretary Yohei [Five years after the establishment of the Reitaku University. Kono] I think Mr. Abe is one of them, and Japanese Constitution, including Article 9] He has worked as a there are people in China and Korea who say The Korean Peninsula starts boiling in red. foreign correspondent for NHK Journal, that Japan has not been apologizing enough.... MacArthur panics: he hates the Communists, taught previously at Nihon University, and Since the end of World War II, it has been put and he sees that Japan, his baby, is defense- his best known book is “Unconditional into the constitution that we can not wage less. So he says, at the New Year’s message to Democracy: Education and Politics in war, and for 70 years we have been contrib- the Japanese people, “Article 9 did not mean Occupied Japan, 1945–1952,” which was uting to peace. We should be more confident that you can’t defend yourself.” And that published in Japanese as “Kuniyaburete and proud of that. was the beginning of the Self-Defense Forces. MacArthur.” The subject of education—particu- MacArthur orders [Prime Minister] Yoshida 9, and say that they are peaceful and that larly textbooks—has been a major to establish Marines and Air Force. they enjoy peace because of it. But I say, it’s issue between Japan, Korea, and So the first reinterpretation came from because of our bodyguards to whom we pay China. What role do you think the guy who wrote it in the first place $6 to $8 billion a year. If you really believe education can play in improving [Nishi places most responsibility for the in this peace, ask the Americans to leave, relations? Constitution in MacArthur’s hands]. But there’s also the question of letter and spirit and see what happens. For Japan, we should admit the fact that it of the constitution. The [initial] spirit was When I say Japan should defend itself, is important for the Japanese government no defense whatsoever. I’m thinking very simply. A military force, to teach all the facts related to our invasions ...Only my generation knows the poverty and submarines with defense capability. during the war. If we make more effort on of living during and after the war. Eighty That’s it. But the possibility with Abe-san’s this, each country will admit the facts about percent of the Japanese population alive collective defense is that the United States what each country did. And to learn, it would today never knew anything about war. What might ask for Japan to go together to the Mid- be ideal to use a common textbook in Asia— they know is the indoctrinated version of dle East, or Chinese shores. And that’s some- this would definitely enhance our mutual that war. That indoctrination started with thing that many Japanese are legitimately understanding. Article 9 and peace education. But we didn’t worried about. I am too. I am worried. How would you get those three earn that peace; we earned the crumbs One of the issues among Japan, countries to agree on how this his- branded peace by the American forces. So China, and Korea is the subject tory should be taught? we became essentially brilliant, hard-work- ing, domesticated animals of labor. of history. Is the Abe administra- I think the Six-Party Talks (Rokkakoku Kyou- But now we have the current gener- tion’s unwillingness to acknowl- gi)—which were created to address the issue ation who has seen [violence] on screens edge wartime events—or revise of the North Korean abductions of Japanese everywhere: so many wars, and they never them out of textbooks—a wise citizens and which are now on hold—is the stop. Or we have seen people like Kenji move? kind of place where these kinds of talks should Goto [the Japanese journalist who was I think it’s stupid on Japan’s side. “What be started again. During the [Yukio] Hatoyama murdered in Syria by terrorists from ISIS] are you thinking; that was war!” Obviously administration, there was a time when an East be killed. When we think of war, we can something horrible happened. It happens Asian Community (Higashi Asia Kyoudoutai) imagine the most horrible scenes in our everywhere, and it happens in every war. was being formed. Even good relations with head, and they are all true. So I understand Humans become non-human. Of course it China were being established. The Abe admin- why there is such a strong voice of protest happened with the Japanese forces. But the istration is stopping everything. [Mizushima against the Prime Minister. And I think the problem is that some Prime Minister apolo- adds that aggression began with Former Prime Minister made a big mistake of not gizes there, lots of businessmen apologize Tokyo Governor Ishihara’s plan to purchase explaining: not taking a whole year! It is there, and the main apology is Article 9. the disputed Senkaku Islands under the Noda that important, and Abenomics is not. This Nothing tops that. We are defenseless.... administration.] Mr. Abe is pushing forward is something that is directly connected to And younger people are starting to get a reassessment of the International Military our soul, to our lives, to our future. If we sick of it [the apologizing]. I have students Tribunal for the Far East War Criminals Tokyo don’t like Article 9, then let’s debate it. Mr. who ask me, “how should we Japanese Trial (Tokyo Saiban). Abe is evaluating these tri- Prime Minister, you lead the debate. apologize?” And I say, “I don’t know.” They als, including [those of convicted war criminals reply: “If we apologize this way or that way who are honored at] Yasukuni Shrine. This But what would be the purpose of to Korea, to China: would they forgive us? of course can be a trigger for a war between the unconditional ability to have I think they should tell us how we should Japan and other Asian countries. Therefore, an army? It wouldn’t be to go and apologize, write the sentences for us.” ...We it is best for Mr. Abe to resign. Previous ad- fight wars overseas, so what aim don’t know what to do. And our hunch is ministrations got along well with the Korean would it serve? that they will want apologies for another government, even though they were from the So the hypocrisy and dirtiness of Japanese 100 years. LDP. I think the current Abe administration is people here is that people talk about Article the worst aggravator since the War.

Translation by Yuna Uemaru www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 A Song Born from Tragedy A victim of the infamous plane crash is survived by his daughter, who finds peace and preserves his story 30 years later

ugust 12, 1985 A sweltering day on the eve of mum told him I was due on his birthday. He said that this the Obon Holidays: one the busiest times of the new life was going to replace his own. They never spoke year for all airlines as passengers flock to their about it again. home towns to visit family and pay respect to “Lots of bizarre, possibly spiritual things were happen- theirA ancestors. Japan Air lines Flight 123 from Tokyo to ing around that time. Before the crash there was a blackout Osaka was one of a number of flights close to capacity in our neighborhood that was never explained. The elec- that evening. Including crew members there were a total tricity eventually came back and Cassie started watching of 524 people on board. Only four survived the flight. her favorite show before it was interrupted by a newsflash. According to the official report, 12 minutes into the She called mum and asked if it was papa’s plane, but she journey the rear pressure bulkhead failed due to a faulty assumed a domestic flight wouldn’t be that big. Then the repair, resulting in explosive decompression that tore off passenger list was leaked and the names came on the most of the tail, crippling the aircraft. Heroically, Captain screen. My dad’s name was at the end. It was one of the Masami Takahama and co-pilot Yutaka Sasaki man- only things mum could read in Japanese.” aged to keep the plane airborne for 32 minutes before The fact that Akihisa Yukawa had another family and it crashed into a ridge near Mount Osutaka. With 520 that he and Susanne Bayly had never been married made fatalities, it remains the deadliest single aircraft crash in things complicated in regards to compensation. His mother aviation history. supported the girls financially during their younger days, As you’d expect with a disaster on such a huge scale but when she passed away Ms. Bayly decided to contact the there were all kinds of stories of people who hadn’t in- airline. JAL reportedly didn’t know about Diana’s existence tended to fly, but ended up doing so while others escaped until 1995. After doing DNA tests (on Diana only as a death because they changed plans. Susanne Bayly was declaration had been signed by Mr. Yukawa confirming heavily pregnant at the time, so she decided not to travel that Cassie was his daughter) the company agreed to a set- to Osaka that evening. Her partner, Akihisa Yukawa, did. tlement with the two girls in 2001. The real disappointment Roughly a month after the accident, their second daugh- for Diana, though, is that her family has never received an ter Diana Yukawa—now a renowned violinist—was born. official apology from the airline for the accident. JAL didn’t admit liability for the crash (Boeing accepted RECOGNIZING LIVES AND LOSS sole responsibility), but did pay sums reported to be “Mum’s very candid about what happened,” Yukawa tells around ¥780 million in “condolence money” to the relatives Weekender. “She often talks about my father’s bright of those who died. Christopher Hood—author of the books personality, but apparently he’d been uncharacteristi- “Dealing with Disaster in Japan” and “Osutaka”—believes cally irritable that morning because he couldn’t get a the company “basically did all it could in regards to com- seat on the Shinkansen. He came home for lunch with pensation”; however, he feels more compassion should sushi; then as he was leaving, he held my sister Cassie’s have been shown to some of the victims’ families. hand and stroked mum’s belly, saying ‘look after my last “In many ways JAL acted in a very professional man- creation.’ Months earlier he supposedly freaked out after ner,” Hood tells us. “It covered funeral costs immediately and waited until after the 49th day (the FINAL WORDS mourning period) to discuss compensa- “Be good to each other and work hard. Help tion. It wasn’t a private company at the your mother. I’m very sad, but I’m sure I time but still had to think about insurance won’t make it. I don’t know the reason....To premiums. Speaking to a lot of people think that our dinner last night was the last involved, the issue wasn’t so much the time....Tsuyoshi [his son], I’m counting on you. amount, but rather the business-like Mama [a common expression for one’s wife], approach that was taken. Parents that to think something like this could happen; it’s lost a son were offered more money than too bad. Goodbye. Please take good care of the those who lost a daughter because men on children. It’s 6:30 now, the plane is turning average in Japan earn more than women. and descending rapidly. I’m grateful for the Different values were being placed on truly happy life I’ve enjoyed until now.” Kyu Sakamoto human lives and that naturally upset a lot After saying goodbye to family members, of families.” passenger Ryohei Murakami described what The most famous name on the pas- JAL’s reputation was severely damaged it was like inside the plane. “There’s little senger list was singer Kyu Sakamoto: as a result of the crash. President Yasumoto oxygen; I feel sick. People are saying ganbatte the first and still only Asian recording Takagi resigned, while Hiroo Tominaga, a [do your best]. I don’t know what happened artist to top the American Billboard coordinator of maintenance, committed to the plane. 18.46. I’m worried about the Chart. "Ue o Muite Arukou" (Known suicide, leaving a note that read “I’m aton- landing. The stewardesses are calm.” to Western audiences as "Sukiyaki") ing with my death.” Sales were also badly also reached the number one spot in affected. Unsurprisingly a large number FIRST RESPONDERS, AND Australia, Canada, Sweden, Norway of people were afraid to fly after the acci- LOOKING BACK and Japan. Diana Yukawa is one of dent—domestic passengers dropped by a It’s remarkable that four people—Hiroko a number of musicians to have cov- third—and many of those that continued to Yoshizaki, her daughter Mikiko, off-duty ered the track. "I love the sentiment fly switched allegiance to ANA. cabin attendant Yumi Ochiai, and 12-year- of the lyrics,” she says. “‘Even though With no fatal accidents since 1985, old Keiko Kawakami—survived, yet accord- tears are rolling down my face I'm JAL has managed to win back the trust of ing to testimonies by doctors, even more looking up to the sky.’ It’s a beautiful its customers, yet it knows how quickly lives could have been saved if the rescue song that connects with so many things can change. Employees are con- team had arrived earlier. A U.S. C-130 people.” Kyu Sakamoto was 43 at the stantly reminded of their responsibilities Hercules spotted the plane 20 minutes after time of the crash. It’s very important to constantly remind people been a lot of anger, tears and recrimina- about what happened on that day so that something tion during that time, but there has also like this never happens again and all those lives been a strong sense of solidarity and to- getherness amongst the victims’ families, were not lost in vain. as well as the relatives of victims from other transport disasters such as the Chi- and are encouraged to visit and maintain impact, but was ordered to return, allegedly na Airlines crash in Nagoya in 1994 and the crash site. In 2006 the Safety Promo- because of a lack of fuel. The Japan Self the Amagasaki derailment in 2005. On the tion Center near Haneda Airport was Defense Forces didn’t arrive at the site until 12th of this month a large number of fam- opened. It displays wreckage from the the next morning. ilies will gather on Mount Takamagahara flight such as the rear bulkhead, mangled “In some ways you can understand why to pray for their lost loved ones. Diana seats, a stopped wristwatch and final it took so long,” Hood says. “Issues such as Yukawa won’t be with them. She has been notes (isho) written by passengers during the lack of GPS and the fact that the location up to the site a number of times on the an- the 32 minutes the plane was out of con- was inaccessible on foot would’ve made the niversary to play the violin; however, this trol, including a seven-page message that search extremely difficult. That said, part of year she decided to go up a little earlier passenger Hirotsugu Kawaguchi wrote to me thinks they should’ve dealt with things without her instrument. his family. better. Panic clearly set in. “I don’t go up there to tell my father “Japanese organizations prefer to what’s been happening because I feel rotate jobs so people gain knowl- he is always present in my life anyway,”

Photo: Spencer Pete edge in a number of fields, which she says. “I go to the mountain to pay my is great in one sense, but it often respects to him, but I don’t want it to be means there aren’t enough ex- something sad. So many people have told perts. There’s a tendency to turn to me what a charming, funny, warmhearted the manual in a crisis rather than guy he was and I want to celebrate that doing things instinctively. On top by honoring him in a positive way. At the of that a lack of equipment was same time it’s very important to constant- and still is a problem, particularly ly remind people about what happened the shortage of searchlights.” on that day so that something like this Thirty years have now passed never happens again and all those lives since the catastrophe. There has were not lost in vain.”

by Matthew Hernon CRAFT BEER IS SLOWLY BUT SURELY EDUCATING THE PALATES OF JAPAN’S BEER DRINKERS AND BRINGING WITH IT SOME EQUALLY UNIQUE STORIES FROM

THE START-UPS PRODUCING IT by Chris Zajko

apan’s craft beer industry has been brewers in Japan is the high cost of ingredi- going from strength to strength for ents—malt, hops and yeast—as they are most many years now. often imported from overseas. Combined Stemming from the scene’s with the exorbitant ¥222 per liter tax rate— much-celebrated early incarnation in much higher than it is for other alcohol Jthe 1990s, there has been a series of triumphs types—that the government charges, inflated resulting in many of Japan’s more interesting retail prices are the upshot. For small, start- and flavorsome brews holding their own on up operations facing these financial hurdles, the international stage. The beer-drinking there is no choice but to pass the costs onto public are rapidly becoming more interested the consumer. There is no wonder craft beer in, and educated about, the nuances of craft prices can be as much as twice that of your beer’s seemingly endless flavors and varieties. traditional Japanese lagers produced by one It’s safe to say the scene has taken cues of the “big four” in the business (Suntory, and influence from abroad, helped along by Sapporo, Kirin and Asahi) who collectively a handful of expats setting up shop in Japan. account for more than 95% of all beer sold in They bring with them extensive knowledge Japan. and experience from exposure to more estab- In fact, the dominance of these major lished international markets and a DIY attitude players has made it difficult for Japanese beer often born from the home-brewing cultures of drinkers to embrace microbrews, despite the the UK and North America. country’s long tradition of artisan production. The growth of the industry, however, has As James Williams, an Englishman who owns not been without its share of difficulties and the British-style pub and brewery Campion hurdles. Ale, explains, “Within Japan there’s a real In Japan, home-brewing beer is illegal, due interest in hand-made, unique products. For to an outdated law prohibiting the practice—a nihonshu, or Japanese sake, the idea of having relic left over from the Meiji Era (1867–1912). a very small-scale unique sake brewery is This has restricted local people from gaining quite common. There’s a precedent [for the experience and exposure to small-batch, beer], but there’s not the experience. A lot of craft-style beer, which has in turn slowed people don’t realize that beer can also be a the progress of the industry by lessening the small-scale craft-type experience. They have opportunity for people to hone their skills the image of the very big factory and the big and practice their craft without high financial distributors and the big makers.” risks. Interestingly, despite craft beer’s Another major difficulty faced by smaller relatively small “slice of the pie” (micro-

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com Scott Brimmer hard at work at his Kawasaki brewery, Brimmer Brewing.

thing akin to a large-scale ers weren’t necessarily professional brewers rebellion is taking place before....A lot of these people have been against the blandness of home-brewing as a hobby for many years.... local beer produced by They’re confident enough to where they the big four that have think they can make a business out of it.” monopolized the market Jason Koehler, a founding partner of for so long. DevilCraft, may be the exception to that rule. Unsurprisingly, the likes As he explains, “I came to Japan knowing of Kirin are beginning to I wanted to brew beer here before I had change tack by adding even relocated.” Koehler studied brewing their own line of craft at Chicago’s Siebel Institute and landed his beer-esque products first job in Japan as an assistant brewer, to their repertoire in before going out on his own with the help of an attempt to cash in two partners. He attributes the rise of more on the trend. Brimmer foreign-owned businesses to “a hunger for Brewing’s American di- the beers of their homeland.” rector and brewmaster “Microbreweries were a big thing in Scott Brimmer doesn’t the 1990s in the US, and the UK never really breweries account for only about 1% of total feel threatened by these new additions. lost their pub and real ale culture. For those beer consumption) and the difficulties faced Instead, he sees them as a stepping stone for who were already brewers, the transition to by its producers, the segment has actually consumers. “A lot of the general public that go brewing in Japan was natural. For others, it been growing steadily for a number of years. to convenience stores to buy beer are seeing was about filling a need for what they love.” According to The Craft Beer Association in Ja- new beers out there. If they try some of those Just as the cornerstones of craft beer pan, 2008’s domestic production of craft beer beers, maybe they’ll venture a little further in Japan these days are individuality and sat at around 29 million liters, and reached and try some of the smaller breweries, like us.” uniqueness, so too are the stories and paths approximately 35 million liters only 5 years Yamamoto estimates there are around traveled of the international brewers and later. The Association’s Chief Operating Officer 225 craft breweries in Japan today, due to the brewpub owners that now call Japan home. Yusuke Yamamoto is optimistic about further brewing’s surge in popularity over a the last While there is no discernible pattern regard- growth and says that craft beer shipments few years. Of this number, there a handful ing the motivation for coming to Japan, they, from domestic breweries have grown at least of brewers that have been chipping away at along with a variety of Japanese-owned craft an additional 10% since 2013. the market since the 90s. Brewers like Echigo, beer businesses, are all contributing to the The rest of the world is taking notice too, Hitachino Nest and Coedo were amongst more flavorsome end of the beer spectrum with a string of international awards: Osaka’s the first craft brewers in Japan (all forming that is taking hold of a healthy corner of the Minoh Brewery was named best Imperial within a couple of years of 1993’s liquor tax market. Brimmer reinforces the cautious op- IPA (India Pale Ale) at last year’s World Beer reforms) and have paved the way for the likes timism felt throughout the industry, estimat- ing that Japan is “probably about where the States were about ten to fifteen years ago... Japan is now experiencing an awakening, as the but it’s gaining pretty fast. In a year or two, it might just be a couple of years behind.” general public becomes increasingly educated about It seems that the maturing of many Jap- what craft beer is. anese beer drinkers’ palates, combined with the country’s love affair with craftsmanship and deep culture of perfectionism, has the Awards and Kawagoe’s Coedo Brewery scored of DevilCraft, Campion Ale, and Brimmer industry set for continued growth and inter- a silver in the same year at the World Beer Brewing to flourish in the Japanese market national acclaim over the coming years. Cup’s “American-style amber lager” category more recently. for their golden brown Kyara beer. Another important ingredient in Japan’s For more information please visit: It’s not smooth sailing for the rest of the continued craft beer growth is the rise of Campion Ale: www.campionale.com beer industry though. The overall consump- brewpubs—venues that serve their own DevilCraft: en.devilcraft.jp tion of beer has been declining in Japan for small batch products, usually brewed on Baird Beer: bairdbeer.com decades, from around 7.3 billion liters in 1999 site by hand. In Tokyo alone, the number of Brimmer Brewing: to just under 6.2 billion liters in 2014, accord- brewpubs has increased from less than 10 to www.brimmerbrewing.com ing to Euromonitor International. around 80 in only the last few years. So why, in a declining industry, are small- A common inspiration er, more experimental operators enjoying running through some of the repeated successes, not only in their increased expat-owned craft beer busi- production and consumption, but also nesses is that their owners through critical acclaim from international didn’t necessarily come to connoisseurs and local punters alike? Japan with the goal of cash- The answer is more than likely beer edu- ing in on the trend or filling a cation. The general public is becoming more gap in the market, but rather aware of the diversity and excitement of craft a more natural progression beer through an increase in beer festivals, that led them to their destiny. brewpubs and craft beer bars. Brimmer says, “Out of Yokohama-based beer consultant and any of the foreigners I don’t writer Lee Reeve thinks we’re now at a stage know anyone that specifical- of growth in which “Japan is now experienc- ly came here to make beer ing an awakening, [an] enlightenment” as “the for Japan.” Although a highly general public becomes increasingly educated experienced and university about what craft beer is.” This may be a little educated brewer himself, he dramatic, but there are some signs that some- notes that “A lot of foreign- James Williams, director of Campion Ale, manning the bar at the British-style pub and brewery in Asakusa. www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 GOING COASTAL A longtime getaway for Tokyo’s upper classes, the beaches of Hayama offer a refined take on the Shonan scene

ayama is located on an ideal spot for families with young rocky point of Morito Kaigan. the bottom side of the children. At the far eastern end of Both spots are known for their Miura Peninsula, be- the beach is a grassy knoll that is an friendly locals, especially to visitors tween the cities of Zushi ideal place to catch the afternoon who understand how to get into the Hand Yokosuka. This quiet seaside breeze and sunset—but beware of spirit of the local culture. For city community has been a popular swooping tombi (kites) if you plan to dwellers, the breaths of fresh sea home for actors, businessmen, and picnic there! air that the Hayama area provides wealthy expats, but it might be best The “umi no ie,” or beach bar/ create an excellent atmosphere to known as being the site of one of restaurants, offer a less raucous vibe decompress and soak in the scenic the Imperial Villas. than the norm, but the DJ sets and live coastal setting. Although the two main beaches performances can provide plenty of of Hayama, Isshiki Kaigan and pleasant surprises. Most also feature HOW TO GET THERE Morito Kaigan, are not as easily paid showers and locker services. Zushi Station reached as some of the more pop- The sunsets from Isshiki can ular spots along the Shonan Coast be breathtaking, as the beach faces like Kamakura, Enoshima, or Chiga- west and you can see the sun set saki, these tranquil, picturesque over Sagami Bay. If you are lucky coastal getaways are well worth the and skies are clear, you may be able extra effort to visit for a day trip to see Mount Fuji across the bay. Morito Kaigan from the city. For a bit of culture along the way, you can visit the MORITO KAIGAN Isshiki Kaigan Kanagawa Prefectural Museum of Morito Kaigan is the home of Morito Modern Art in Hayama, and during Shrine, whose signature bright Isshiki Kaigan: Take the Yokosuka the peak of summer, the afternoons orange torii overlook Sagami Bay Line (Shinagawa or Shimbashi) or the and evenings pick up with their located on the rocks hundreds of me- Shonan-Shinjuku Line (Shinjuku or own lively atmosphere, thanks to a ters out to sea. The beach in front of Ikebukuro) to Zushi Station. (approx. variety of beach houses dotting the the shrine is quite narrow but fairly 50 min from Shinagawa to Zushi). shoreline. popular for people having BBQs, pos- From Zushi Station, take a Keikyu Bus sibly because you can drive almost towards Hayama and get off at Isshiki ISSHIKI KAIGAN the entire way to the beach. Kaigan (approx. 15 min) Isshiki Kaigan is a one-kilometer For a better swim, cross the stretch of volcanic grey beach. The arched foot bridge over the river, Morito Kaigan: Same as getting to water here is far cleaner than heading back in the direction of Zushi Isshiki from Tokyo, but take a Keikyu the water at other Shonan and you are on Morito (Swimming) Bus to Morito Kaigan (approx. 20-25 beaches, and the general- Beach which is sandy and probably a min during peak time). ly calm water makes it more suitable place for a dip than the

By Glen Young

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com DINING IN THE NORTH Experience the hearty cuisine and rustic ambience of Akita—without the four-hour train ride.

Between the rustic decor, the hearty, au- thentic fare, and the wide variety of local sakes, you’ll be able to enjoy a complete Akita

fare. A must-try is one of Akita’s experience without most famous local dishes, kiritanpo: freshly cooked rice, having left Tokyo. pounded and formed into cyl- inders around cedar skewers. A restaurant favorite is kiritampo-nabe, nyone who has been to Akita will served with broth made from the ambrosial know this magical prefecture in the local, free-range Hinai Jidori chicken—this Adeep north of Japan is known for its prized bird is a local Akita breed that has rich cultural traditions, breathtaking country- been cultivated for generations and is side and unique regional cuisine. renowned for its unique, delicate taste. You may not realize is that you can have Other unmissable dishes include Matsuo your very own Akita experience in Tokyo, at Beef, grown and sourced directly from Akita Dining “Namahage” in Ginza. You can’t farms in the region, and Hachimantai Pork, miss the Akita-themed restaurant, with its tra- the restaurant’s version of a traditional ditional red, demonic Namahage mask clearly delicacy known as Du Zhong tea-fed pork, signposting the venue. prepared using pigs reared on a special diet The spacious restaurant is about as of mash from locally-grown tea. authentic as it gets. The interior is an actual Akita is also known as one of Japan’s 130 year-old farm house from Akita Prefecture most prolific sake-producing regions, and that was reconstructed here in Tokyo. Shiny fans of nihonshu, Japan’s national tipple, will black wood floors complete with a built-in not be disappointed. You can get into the hearth, traditional wooden ceilings and old spirit by sampling any one of the restau- farm equipment. Even in the extreme heat rant’s prodigious sake collection, all sourced and humidity of a Tokyo summer, you’d be from the prefecture’s 38 local breweries. Akita Dining “Namahage” forgiven for thinking that you’d stepped into Accompanying the evening meal are 9th Floor, Nakajimashoji Building, 8-5-6 a cozy, snow-covered farm house in one of twice-nightly, electrifying “Namahage” Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061 Japan’s northernmost prefectures. Private performances, which conjure up the atmos- Tel: 050-5797-4874 booths take the shape of kamakura, the struc- phere of traditional ceremonies in Japan’s tures of ice and snow that play an important far north. Between the rustic decor, the Opening Hours: role in the prefecture’s winter festivals. hearty, authentic fare, and the wide variety Sat–Thu: 17:00–23:30 | Fri: 17:00–04:00 The food follows a similar theme to the de- of local sakes, you’ll can enjoy a the feeling Live “Namahage” shows: cor, focusing on delicious and unique regional of Akita without having left Tokyo. Every night: 19:15 and 22:00

CHEERS FROM TADAIMA JAPAN adaima Japan is a web magazine that focuses on Japanese culture, providing you with information from those who are truly in the know. Whether you’re after traditional events, Tculture, food and drink recommendations, popular tourist destinations, or the low-down on some of Japan’s best-kept secrets, this infinitely expanding guide book for Japan has you covered with daily updates from writers speaking from personal experience. In addition, Tadaima Japan readers can get a special offer at Akita Dining “Namahage”: visit the Namahage page attadaimajp.com for a secret “key word.” Say that word to your server for a free cup of sake...kanpai!

For more information, visit tadaimajp.com www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 FLOATING THROUGH HISTORY Generations past come to vibrant life on the rolling stages of this Akita festival

he Tsuchizaki Hikiyama Festival is a samurai film, but a fierce and frantic struggle raucous celebration, appeasing the for life. There is something very primal about gods and cementing communities the figures. They reflect a time when warfare with shouting, towering festival floats, was the norm, before Japan was unified and Tdance, and . . . dolls. peace led the samurai to pursue the arts as These are not any ordinary figures though. diligently as war. Standing high on the hikiyama floats are larger- Although the figures themselves are than-life warriors straight from Japan’s Sengoku static, the chanting of the hikiyama bearers, Jidai (Warring States Period), a time when the drummers and musicians riding in the samurai houses were in a constant struggle for back of the floats, and the crowds cheering in supremacy and survival. Eternally locked in the streets give the scenes a sense of motion. a single pose, about to strike or deflect a final Moving through the streets, powered by the blow, eyes gleaming and faces contorted with energy and imagination of the crowd, the the rage of battle, the figures are frighteningly warriors come to life, the outcome of the vicious. It appears that their battle many rolling battles left until now has not been the grace- to the mind of each ful face-off of a spectator.

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com works of art. In the front is COMMUNITIES the diorama. Each float is different but each one rec- CONNECTED BY reates dramatic scenes of two to three giant warriors A FESTIVAL locked in battle against a ost matsuri are, after all, about backdrop of trees, moun- celebrating, strengthening, and tains or towering cliffs. preserving community and tradi- Some of the combatants M tion, and the Hikiyama Matsuri is a perfect are two muscular hadaka example of the far-reaching impact this event ningyo—warriors with can have. Without it, the last maker of these nothing but loincloths and stunning warrior figures would have long weapons. Other floats since closed up shop and become just one have regally clothed more story of a lost craft. musha ningyo—usually But if the festival is not just a show of famous historical figures. museum pieces or a reason to keep artisans The back of the float in business. Other than the makers of the presents a dramatically different scene. ningyo, nearly every aspect of the Hikiyama Moving through the Standing at the top, looking out over the Matsuri is organized by regular members of crowds behind is the mikaeshi ningyo. In a the community. Once a year, regular people streets, powered by the stark contrast to the warriors on the front in each neighborhood transform into danc- of the float, the mikaeshi ningyo is a com- ers, musicians, and float bearers. Prepara- energy and imagination of ical figure, often an old man in a summer tions begin long in advance. Within the loose yukata standing next to a tall signboard framework of the festival, each neighborhood the crowd, the warriors painted with a witty phrase. In the space creates its own original uniforms and dances. come to life, the outcome below are the musicians. Each float has its Unlike the portable mikoshi shrines used own hanayashi, an ensemble of traditional in many festivals, the hikiyama are largely of the many rolling battles Japanese musicians. The melodies of sham- made by regular people in the neighborhood. isen and kagura flute are backed by the Guided by experienced residents, people in left to the mind of each rhythm of kotuzumi and taiko drums. In a the community come together to build and time when even many traditional festivals decorate the colorful floats. On the day of the festival, what started spectator. rely on recorded music, seeing each float out as planks of wood and cloth has been go by with its own band is impressive. transformed into a dramatic diorama. For PULLING THE MOUNTAINS TO LIFE All of this is mounted on a frame- one weekend, everyday workers, students, Every year, for two days in late July, hiki- work constructed over the two thick and housewives transform into float bearers, yama (literally, “pulled mountains”)—the poles stretching out over the wheel ax- dancers, and musicians. But it is all the days large, warrior-bearing festival floats—are les. Thick ropes, entwined in a compli- of community work, planning, and prepara- pulled out from neighborhoods throughout cated pattern, hold everything together. tion that matter most. Tsuchizaki. Accompanied by music, dance, There are no brakes, no complicated chanting, and general revelry, the hiki- steering. The leaders of each group have yama make their way towards the port, and only their skill and years of experience Tsukizaki Shinmeisha Shrine. Spectators line with which to direct the team of float the parade route on Honmachi Dori, waiting bearers. To a passing tourist, the teams in anticipation, enjoying a drink or snacks chants and yells may look like an ex- from one of the many festival stalls. As the pression of their high spirits, but much hikiyama approach to the sound of music— of the noise is commands for steering, and the yells and chants of the carriers—the synchronizing the group’s movements. crowd joins in, swept up by the energy of the float-bearers, musicians, dancers, and most of all, by the sight of the giant warriors brought to life by the magic of the event. Since being designated as an Impor- tant Intangible Folk Cultural Property THE WARRIORS RETURN HOME in 1997, the Tsuchizaki Shinmeisha As night falls, it is time for the hikiyama and its Hikiyama Matsuri has drawn in more frozen warriors to go back. The return, known and more people from all over Japan. as the Modoriyama, is when the festivities Even so, many of the faces in the crowd reach their peak. The hikiyama is reversed, are locals—if not of Tsuchizaki, then of pulled backwards with the mikaeshi ningyo other parts of Akita City and its surround- overseeing the safe return. The warriors, their ings. Some of them remember seeing the battles all but forgotten, now take a back seat hikiyama as children, of being equally to the people pulling the float, the musicians, amazed and frightened by the fearsome and revelers all around. The procession slowly warriors. Even to a casual tourist, the moves away, stopping every so often to rouse festival feels different than many of the the crowd with music and shouting. Eventually larger parades in big cities. the groups split off, heading back to their own neighborhoods—many of the festivities will last A FLOATING WORLD well past midnight. By morning, the warriors With the tallest reaching as high as 15 will be still once again, awaiting their chance to meters tall, the floats are impressive emerge and do battle in the coming year.

www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 A FESTIVAL OF FIRE hrouded beneath the thick branches of the Nachi Primeval For- backdrop for one of the oldest and largest annual fire festivals in the coun- est, the Kumano Kodo—the most sacred pilgrimage trail in Japan try, Nachi no Ogi. Nachi Falls marks the entrance to the mountain range, and today—zigzags through the Kii Mountains of the Wakayama Pen- is believed to inhabit the god of eternity; many make the journey to receive insula. The five ancient routes that make up the Kumano Kodo a blessing for the afterlife beneath the mist. lead to one of the most spiritual places in the country: Nachi Falls. Nachi no Ogi celebrates life, the afterlife, and everything in between. S Three shrines surrounding Mt. Nachi, together referred to as Kuma- The festival connects the old site of the shrine, built 1,700 years ago, to the no Sanzan, are the headquarters for the more than 3,000 Kumano shrines smaller and newer Hiro Shrine. The site has been renovated dozens of times across the country. The most visited is the Kumano Nachi Taisha, a shrine due to storms, slides, and fires. Today the festival is held every July 14 from poised just beneath the famed falls. The Nachi Falls, measured from top ten in the morning until three in the afternoon. The revered traditions are to drop, are 133 meters in length—the tallest uninterrupted waterfall in still practiced, and are meant to unite the gods of the Kii Mountains and Japan—and one of 48 in the Kii Mountains. bring good health to the living, bountiful crops to the hungry, and a blessed The sharp cliff and glistening falls, catching the afternoon light, are the eternity for those who have passed.

Text and photos by Natalie Jacobsen

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com Left Page: (Top left) A priest, his face drawn with fresh, hot ashes, marches across a cobblestone path, his voice ringing out, calling for a blessed eternity (Top right) Overlooking Mt. Nachi and Nachi Falls, Sanjudo Pagoda is the highlight of the Seiganto-ji Buddhist Temple. (Bottom left) The raised fans, the same ones used to fan the flames, are the only props used in the dance. A drum steadies the rhythm of the dancers’ movements, and a flutist guides them through the steps. (Bottom right) Volunteers and those receiving training pass through the Torii Gate of Hiro Shrine, ready to retire at the top of the mountain.

Right Page: (Top left) These torches will be carried up and down this slope half a dozen times before they are paraded back down to the falls to be extin- guished. (Top right) The initial twelve, carrying the holy flame, make their way one last time down the mountain where the 50-kilogram torches await to be lit. (Bottom Left) The head priest, flanked by a miko (priestess) and attendant, strides down the mountain to bless the torches just before they are lit. (Bottom right) Often, the fires look like they’re out of control, the unpredictable flames causing the carrier to move unexpectedly left and right to regain their balance. The immediate danger is part of the thrill of the spectacle.

www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 ne of Tokyo’s trendiest streets just got a little cooler cool and comfortable on runs, but its signature look was quick- with the opening of a store that should please both ly recognized as a trendsetter across genres and levels of soci- hard core sneaker heads and fashionistas alike. ety. Reebok took notice, and as the years followed, the Venti- The Reebok CLASSIC Store opened last month on lator took on a variety of colors and patterns as designers and OHarajuku’s Cat Street, and true to its name, it offers a blast artists of all stripes teamed up with the brand to bring a breath from the past experience as soon as you walk in the door: of fresh air to the shoe line. the far wall of the two-story store is lined with vintage ads Visitors to the Reebok CLASSIC Store will be able to find that span two floors and three decades of sneaker style. Make a broad range of Ventilator colorways—from time-honored your way up the second floor to find a carpeted hangout area simple patterns to more daring styles—at the CLASSIC Store. with coffee table space and room for rotating gallery exhibits And, as sneaker aficionados know, part of the fun of the alongside Reeboks both throwback and modern. shoe-buying game is picking up limited-time mashups and Throughout Reebok’s history during the rise of the “sneak- highly original colorways, so keep your eyes peeled for those er as a fashion statement” era in the 80s and 90s, one of its best rare collaborations—but you’ll have to act fast as these models known lines were the Ventilator running shoes. First launched often sell out as quickly as they’re announced. in 1990, this running shoe was built to keep its wearer’s feet Alongside the vintage-themed Ventilators, the Instapump Furys, and many other shoe lines, the Reebok CLASSIC Store is also fully stocked with apparel, featuring casual gear that will have you looking your best as you stroll around town or lounge out over a lazy weekend. One of the signature pieces to pick up is the CLASSIC Starcraft logo tee, featuring the char- acteristic design coupled with the Tokyo name that is synony- mous with global style: a great gift for a shoe fan back home or for yourself.

Store Address: Tokyo-to, Shibuya-ku Jingumae 6-14-7, ME Building

Web: http://reebok.jp/

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com ROAD TO UFC: JAPAN

As Roy “Big Country” Nelson knows, coming out on top in the reality TV world can be a huge boost to a fighter’s career. After all, the heavyweight with the crushing right hand was a winner on “The Ultimate Fighter: Heavyweights,” a victory that propelled him into a contract with the UFC. Now, Nelson is looking to help a group of Japanese MMA fighters make their next steps towards greatness, as one of two coaches for the TV series, “Road to UFC: Japan.”

For the show, eight fighters from diverse backgrounds and martial arts styles will be training with Nelson and fellow coach, Josh “The Warmaster” Barnett. During the sea- son, the trainees will square off in matches of their own, and one finalist from each team will be selected to join the card on September 27, for “Fight Night Japan: Nelson vs. Barnett” at the Super Arena in Saitama.

Big Country says that his Japanese trainees already have serious technique, but their hunger to fight in the top level of mixed martial arts competition surprises even him: “these guys are MMA veterans, but their focus and determination to get into the UFC is so fierce, sometimes I need to get them to conserve their energy a little.”

Although Nelson thinks that the overall level of MMA in this country needs to return to what it was in the early 2000s, he thinks that the talent of his trainees, and the fans that they have already begun to inspire, are a good sign of things to come for the UFC in Japan.

As for his own matchup against the 191 cm, 114 kg Barnett, Nelson is promising a “heavyweight war.” Both of these UFC big men are known for their grappling skills, but Nelson predicts that he will defeat Barnett standing up. Will the brawler out of Nevada be able to make good on his promise? Get yourself a ticket for the action on September 27 to find out. www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 Backstage with Bill: Hanging out with Arnold on the promo tour for “Predator” with 20th Century Fox

ugust already and it won’t be long before we’ll be moving Even still, I was amazed at the number of VIPs who turned up for the Arab into autumn, one of my favorite seasons here in Japan. Art exhibit at the Oman Embassy. I took former Tokyoite Marie Anderson, For now I have a few gomenasais I want to extend to some who now lives in New York City, and was in Tokyo for the ILBS Cherry really nice people out there, and clear my mind. Blossom Ball. It was also great seeing Lilibeth Dabdoub, the wife of former Let’s start over at the Okura Hotel at their popular garden Bolivian Ambassador Joaquin Dabdoub, to Japan. They live in Bolivia now, Afair. I did get up early and over to the Okura for HIH Princess Takama- and she writes a fashion column for a top newspaper there. The exhibition, do’s cutting the ribbon to officially open the prestigious event. This year as are all of the events put on by the many Arab Embassies, was beautifully there were 10 countries participating. As always there was a huge crowd set up. Special guest HIH Princess Takamado cut the ribbon to open the waiting to see the spectacular gardens, and of course the always chic, program and spent a lot of time checking out the art—which she “loved.” Me always special Princess. Once the ribbon was cut, it was pretty much a too. It was a great late afternoon with a lot of good and interesting people. pandemonium with the huge crowd pushing and shoving in attempts to get photos of the gardens and the princess. I was able to get photos of ARAB WEEK RECEPTION—MANDARIN eight of the event’s diplomatic participants, which we ran last month, but It was the 7th annual Arab week and the full schedule of interesting events just couldn’t find two—Michele Robach and Ilda Esteves, the wives of the started off with a glittering VIP-packed reception at the elegant Mandarin Swedish Ambassador Magnus Robach and the Portuguese Ambassador Hotel. Prime Minister Abe took time out of his busy schedule to make a short Francisco Xavier Esteves, respectively. My apologies to them both—and but very meaningful speech and congratulate his many Arab friends on the my congratulations on their beautiful and artistic gardens. occasion. Other speakers included Palestine Representative Waleed Siam, My second gomenasai is to our many Arab friends. Arab Week this who’s head of the Arab diplomatic corps here. Waleed, his wife Maali, the year was bigger than ever with the big reception at the Mandarin, art at other members of the Council of Arab Ambassadors, heads of mission, their the Oman Embassy, a Palestine movie, a super successful bazaar, semi- wives, and many of their children really worked together with the Mandarin nars, and more. I lost some notes and photos (that happens sometimes) staff in making it all very special. and got a bit screwed up on my coverage—first, I ran the photos of the The buffet not only featured the Mandarin’s culinary creations, but also Japanese art of things Arabic at the Oman Embassy but didn’t write a a huge variety of home-made Arabic dishes from each participating coun- rundown of that busy, interesting afternoon, so I’ll get to that first in this try—talk about delicious! The wives of the diplomats had all worked hard month’s column. to give the party venue an Arabic look, and preparing their countries’ food My last apology is for having three pictures in last month’s column! I favorites for the bountiful buffet. In addition to that, each looked fabulous in almost always have one photo of myself with interesting people. I can be national dress which, alongside that exotic jewelry, really made for a kaleido- a bit vain at times, but three pics is a bit too much. Sorry about that and scope of color. thanks for your understanding. Time to move on to our city’s busy social The program for the evening featured Arabic dances, mostly by Am- and cultural event happenings. bassadors’ daughters, and good Arabic music by a talented Japanese trio. During the music performance, a noted Japanese artist, Ozawa-san, painted ARAB ART BY JAPANESE ARTISTS a beautiful Japanese tree on a white canvas that ran the length of the stage. It Oman Ambassador Al-Muslahi and his wife Abeer are a popular couple. was—as you can see—a very special evening.

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 25

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Arab Charity Bazaar—A Huge Success Siam (Palestine), Samira Abdelaziz (Sudan) 1. Qatar Amb. Yousef Bilal, his wife Jamila 2. Lilibeth Dabdoub, Maali Siam (Palestine) 3. Mexico’s head of tourism in Japan Quillermo Equiarte, his wife CWAJ Reception at the Andaz Hotel Delores, their son Sebastian 4. Jamilah Al-Otaibi (Kuwait) and Samira Abdelaziz 9. CWAJ’s Kyoko Okuda, 2005 CWAJ Scholar Makoto Ogoda, 1969 Travel Grantee (Sudan) 5. Marc Simmons and his team at the super busy Hasel Foods booth. Yoko Narahashi, CWAJ Alumni Scholar Michiyo Ono, CWAJ’s Joanna Chinen, Nobutoshi Myoga, publisher of T Japan (kneeling) 10. Tolman Galleries’ Kiyo, Arab Week—Mandarin CWAJ’s Paula Murakami, Jerri Donovan, Tolman Galleries’ Nori 11. CWAJ Print 6. Waleed Siam (Palestine), APA Hotels’ Fumiko and Toshio Motoya 7. Kimikazu Show Director Naoko Yagura, Tolman Galleries’ Norman Tolman 12. Asian Ti- Aida, Mary Aida, Montana 8. Jamila Al-Gunaid (Yemen), Shifa Haddad (Jordan), gers’ Nick Masee, CWAJ’s Director of Development Joanna Chinen, Asian Tigers’ Abeer Al-Muslahi (Oman), Artist Hideuki Ozawa, Mounira Khlif (Tunisia), Maali Mary Saphin.

www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 26 | SOCIETY | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES

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Beautiful Argentina Reception 8. Rana Ismayilzada, Kuwaiti Amb. Abdul Rahm Al-Otaibi, Azerbaijan Amb. Gursel 1. Prominent Politician Natsuo Yamaguchi congratulates hosting couple Argentine Ismayilzada 9. Actor Hide Kusakari, Sura Mirzayeva, her son Rashid 10. Powerful Amb. Raul Dejean, his wife Teresa 2. Lilo Maruyama, Cuban Amb. Marcos Costa, his politician Isao Iijima congratulates the hosting couple. wife Rosa, Teresa 3. Peruvian Amb. Elard Escala, Teresa, Christine Escala (Peru), Myr- iam Hirai (Peru) 4. Tall, glamorous, super nice girls: one is a taiko drummer and the Yoyogi Park Weekend Festival other a volleyball player 5. The Argentine Embassy’s Master Chef Penelope Barboza 11. Jamaican Amb. Clement Philip Allicock, “Airtimes Japan’s” Franko Mallens and two Jamaican beauties 12. These two young Japanese mothers attracted a lot of attention Azerbaijan National Day with their dancehall moves 13. Cuban restaurant Aninama owner Roberto, his wife Ka- 6. Rana Ismayilzada, Asst to the Amb. Dinara Masamoto 7. Tamayo Odano; Junko oru Ivory Coast Festival 14. Roppongi “Chickenman” restaurant owner Dike (Nigeria), Yamazaki; her husband, Chief of Protocol Jun Yamazaki; Imperial Household’s his friends Kennedy Rashel, Ivory Coast Festival 15. Winner of the Best Dressed Award Nobutake Odano at the One Love Jamaica Festival.

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 27

AZERBAIJAN NATIONAL DAY RECEPTION—OKURA by holding it inside this year. It was held at the big Izumi Garden Hall, Azerbaijan Amb. Gursel Ismayilzada and his wife Rana are a popular so there were no worries about wind or rain. The location near the couple. As expected their national day reception at Hotel Okura was wall- Saudi Arabia Embassy was also convenient. The variety of Arab food to-wall interesting people. The ladies there were all super chic, and several was great, and pretty much sold out. The booths that represented each had brought their cute kids who looked cool in national costumes. The participating country had a variety of products that included jewelry, program included a welcome speech by the Ambassador and a speech by fashion, and all kinds of attractive knick-knacks. My house is already Isao Iijima, a popular Japanese politician, on Japanese–Azerbaijan friend- like a museum, but still had a hard time resisting some of the wonderful ship and increasing business ties. souvenirs from many Arab countries. Entertainment that day was color- I enjoyed talking with long-time friends Nobutake and Tamayo Odano. ful and lively; the dances were performed by children of the diplomats I first met Nobutake when he was director of protocol in the Gaimusho, and some of their friends. and he and his wife have always been good helpful friends. He’s very busy I talked with long time friend Marc Simmons, who had a booth there as advisor to the Imperial Household, and I really appreciated him intro- selling Mediterranean food. His staff—Gen, Ersin, and Taka—had sold ducing me to the current Head of Protocol, Jun Yamazaki, and his wife about everything, but he ended up giving me three jars of tukas jam. That Junko. I also enjoyed talking with the Ambassador’s personal assistant was really delicious. Thanks. If you’re looking for quality Mediterranean Dinara Masamoto, who’s always helped me as well. It was a great evening, food, here is their website: www.haselfoods.com. Thanks to Marc for all perfect for the occasion. his help in many things over the years and my best wishes in his new Also, our congratulations to Gursel, Rana, and the people of Azer- business. I’d also like to congratulate Jamila Bilal, wife of the Qatar Ambas- baijan on the success of the first European games recently held in their sador and chairperson of the Bazaar and all those who worked so hard in beautiful country. making the Bazaar the special event that it was.

DEJEAN’S ARGENTINE NATIONAL DAY SEGAFREDO’S WORLD BEER FESTA 2015 Had a fun, laid-back evening at the home of Argentine Amb. Raul DeJean You have until August 31 to relax at one of the many Segafredos in and and his wife Teresa. The occasion was their country’s National Day and the around Tokyo and enjoy one of the many of the world’s best beers. For evening at their home had a Latin festival mood. After the welcome and their World Beer Fest 2015 the popular coffee shops/cafés have tied up congratulation speeches it was relaxed evening of talking with friends, with McLaren Honda. In addition to beer and “The Best Espresso in meeting interesting people for the first time, and enjoying the bountiful Town,” they have all kinds of interesting and good pastas, risotto, cakes, delicious buffet prepared by the Embassy’s super chef, Penelope Barboza, gelato, sandwiches and even smoothies. and her assistants. Interesting people included two tall Japanese beauties. One is a pro volleyball player, the other plays Japanese taiko (drums). It SAYONARA TO CANADA’S LAURIE PETERS was also nice meeting newly arrived Mexican Ambassador Carlos Fer- It was nice seeing Canada’s Consul Laurie Peters at a recent National Day nando Almada López. I’ve had a love affair with his beautiful country for party. The only downer was hearing that after four years here she’s left years and have great memories of all my visits there. Our sincerest wishes by now. Laurie’s a dynamic, outgoing, very active lady who made many the Ambassador and his family have a happy, successful, and long posting friends for Canada, and of course herself, during her posting here. I first here, and our wishes that their lovely country will soon solve its problems. got to know her when she hosted a Sayonara for U.S. Cultural Attaché Richard Mei. That was a fun evening with lots of leaders in Japanese show- CWAJ RECEPTION—ANDAZ HOTEL biz including some great jazz musicians who put on a really rocking show. Thanks to Japanese art expert Norman Tolman I had the opportunity to get together with long-time friends and meet a lot of nice and interesting THIS AND THAT people for the first time. The occasion was a dinner party at the Andaz If you’re into traveling, be sure and check out the July/August issue of the Hotel for the opening of their busy season—and the 60th anniversary of prestigious Monocle Magazine. The special 314 issue is full of ideas of the formation of the College Women’s Association of Japan (CWAJ). where to go, what to do and how to enjoy your getaway whenever it may The ladies who are members of CWAJ really work hard to help be. This issue also features a global report of the top 25 cities in their Quali- young artists from Japan fulfill their dreams. The billions of yen they’ve ty of Life Survey. Tokyo, with its cleanliness, tolerance, politeness, and raised over the years pay for scholarships and help hopeful young artists uniqueness, came out No.1 among the ranking of the “most livable” cities. in many ways. It was a very inspiring evening with a speech by guest I’ve traveled pretty much all over this old world of ours, and I pretty much speaker Norman Tolman and a young blind scholar who was a benefactor agree, as two more of my favorite cities are high on the list—Vienna’s No. of CWAJ’s assistance. CWAJ’s big project—their annual Print Show—will 2 and Berlin’s No. 3. I’ve been to Fukuoka, which is No.12, and the ancient be held at the Tokyo American Club from October 30 to November 1. Do Japanese capital Kyoto (No. 14). This country that I, and many of you, have yourself and others a favor: take your checkbook, credit cards, or settled in is really doing pretty well. cash, and check it out. Just checked out the local English magazine attention Tokyo, and was surprised they talk about just every place in Tokyo ARAB BAZAAR PACKS ‘EM IN except Roppongi. They do mention Tokyo Tower, which Glad I like people as there were sure a lot of them at this most people I know don’t really feel is a part of Roppongi. years Arab Ladies’ Charity Bazaar. They made a smart move Me neither.

Tabasco, etc. Man-In-Japan, Marc Gleason and his Israelis Sharon Gidon and Ofer Shagan at Midtown’s Italian Far East Correspondents Pio d’Emilia & family Josephine and Cameron Oakwood Residence Stefano Carrer at Shibuya Segafredo’s

www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 COMING TO A CINEMA NEAR YOU IN AUGUST

AUG 5 JURASSIC WORLD t’s been 22 years since “Jurassic Park” first roared onto screens, shredding Ibox-office records and stirring upa worldwide explosion of dino-fever amongst 90s kids. But that was then. In these jaded times where gods, monsters and, more often than not, superheroes, are regularly seen to do the impossible on our screens, is Jurassic Park better left extinct? With a fresh twist to the story leading to a host of new creatures—and children’s unending fascination with the prehistoric beasties, the answer, it seems, is a safe “no.” In “Jurassic World,” the fourth sequel in the franchise, the park has now been open for 10 years. In an effort to provide new attractions and keep the visitors coming, a new species of genetically modified dinosaur, Indominus Rex, has been created. When the fearsome new predator escapes, as these things tend to do, all hell breaks loose. Chris Pratt, enjoying superstar status after his role in “Guardians of the Galaxy,” stars as Velociraptor wrangler Owen Grady. The story is still as flimsy as ever, but “Jurassic World” offers the same spectacle, excitement and roller- coaster style thrills—and the broken box office records to prove it. MISSION IMPOSSIBLE: ROGUE NATION AUG 28 AUG 1 ission Impossible: Rogue Nation” sees Tom Cruise return as IMF Magent Ethan Hunt in the fifth installment of the high-octane action series. After achieving phenomenal success over the years, the series has managed to avoid suffering from the law of diminishing returns faced by most sequels by constantly upping the ante in the death-defying stunts TED 2 department. With its dedication to old-school ATTACK ON TITAN action, staggering set pieces, and undoubted n a country that doesn’t normally mash-hit manga “Attack on Titan” began charisma and star appeal of Cruise, the brand embrace foreign comedies, 2012’s “Ted” life in 2009 garnering considerable is a solid bet for big screen entertainment. proved an unlikely success. Showing a success before it was turned into I We rejoin Ethan as he calls the team back S surprising amount of heart amidst the sex an anime series in 2013. The series has together to take on the Syndicate, a legendary jokes and crudity, the film proved a hit for the accumulated a sizable foreign fan base with its organization of assassins and rogue release abroad. The live action film is set to be “Family Guy” creator, making a sequel only a operatives who are out to take down the IMF. released in two parts: the first this month and matter of time. In “Ted 2,” the foul-mouthed Back in the fold are Jeremy Renner, Simon the second in September. The story, written by bear has married his girlfriend Tami-Lynn, Pegg and Ving Rhames. Hajime Isayama, takes place in a world where and the pair are looking to have a child to the human race has been decimated after the save their troubled relationship. For this appearance of gigantic “titans,” humanoid he needs the help of his old pal John, Mark AUG 7 monsters who attack and eat humans without Wahlberg, for a little help on the physical reason or remorse. This has led to the survivors side as well as the services of lawyer Amanda shutting themselves in cities barricaded Seyfried in order to win a court battle to behind enormous stone walls. After living prove that the formerly inanimate stuffed toy somewhat peacefully for the past 100 years, is a person in the eyes of the law. If you’re society is shattered after the appearance of a fan of MacFarlane and his brand of quick- a new skinless 60-foot tall titan that breaks fire, smutty humor, “Ted 2” offers up more of through the outer city wall, reintroducing the the same. inhabitants to the monstrous threat.

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com PREVIEWS | MOVIES | 29 AUG 1

> 10BEST OF OFTHE THE BEST: REST THE This MUST Month’s SEE Releases MOVIES OF 2013

BIG GAME LOVE AND MERCY AUGUST 15 Action adventure with the As the leader of 60s pop legends The Beach Boys, Brian Wilson earned absurd factor dialed up to 11 worldwide acclaim for his songwriting talents and studio mastery as Samuel L. Jackson stars as but his later life was marred by breakdowns and deteriorating the President of the United mental health. Biopic “Love and Mercy” documents the musical States who is stranded in the great at two distinct points of his life: riding high yet slowly starting wilderness of Finland after to lose grip in the 60s, and struggling to break free from the clutches Air Force One is shot down by of a shady psychotherapist and regain control in his later life. Two terrorists. different actors are used to portray the musician at these vastly different periods of time. Paul Dano puts in a stellar performance WILD as Wilson in the early days of success as he fiendishly sets out to AUGUST 28 produce the “greatest album ever made” with “Pet Sounds,” while Reese Witherspoon picked screen veteran John Cusack steps into his shoes for the middle years. up an Oscar nomination for Paul Giamatti co-stars as quack doctor Eugene Landy and Elizabeth her performance as Cheryl Banks plays Melinda Ledbetter, a Cadillac saleswoman determined to Strayed, a woman who treks rescue Wilson from the doctor’s clutches. “Love and Mercy” offers a across America on a quest for thoughtful look into the troubled life and times of a musical genius. self-discovery and healing after personal tragedy.

AUG 22 ROUND TRIP HEART AUGUST 29 A starring role for AKB 48’s Yuko Oshima as a train attendant on the “Romance Car” train service to Hakone who becomes stuck in the pretty onsen town with a shady passenger after an onboard altercation.

THE FINAL MEMBER AUGUST 8 Oddball documentary in which the Icelandic curator of the world’s only penis museum NIGHTCRAWLER tries to obtain the one thing his The film was released in October of last year throughout most of the museum is currently missing: a world, picking up awards and rapturous reception in the process, human specimen. but it’s been a long wait for this dark gem. “Nightcrawler” stars Jake Gyllenhaal as Lou Bloom, a desperate man of questionable morals who, in a desperate attempt to find work and success, gets into the THE GALLOWS nocturnal world of L.A. crime journalism. Crawling the streets in the AUGUST 22 pursuit of accidents, crime and tragedy, Lou finds his niche in the Uninspired found-footage seedy realm of freelance TV journalism. A neon-lit slice of grimy noir, horror in which a pretty group the ever-impressive Gyllenhaal gives one of his best performances to of teens are chased around a date as unnerving insomniac Lou. Rene Russo’s also on the scene school at night by a vengeful as an unscrupulous TV news director with Bill Paxton, a veteran spirit. at creating characters of sleazy charm, as cameraman Joe. The directorial debut of Dan Gilroy, who earned himself an Academy Award nomination for his script, “Nightcrawler” is must-see for anyone looking to step out of the light this summer and take a tour This month’s movie previews were written by Christopher of L.A.’s dark underbelly. O’Keeffe. For more movie news and reviews visit www.tokyoweekender.com

www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 AGENDA AUGUST 1

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5 AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN AUGUST

1 AUG 15-16 2 AUG 8 3 AUG 29 4 AUG 5-9 Summer Sonic 2015 Tokyo Bay Fireworks Asakusa Samba Asagaya Tanabata Ariana Grande, The From the edge of Tokyo Carnival Matsuri Chemical Brothers, Pharrell Bay you can get a great Dancers wiggling their Admire the extensive Williams, Marilyn Manson, Passion Pit view of one of the biggest and most way through downtown Tokyo and range of papier-mâché decorations and Kyary Pamyu Pamyu are just the popular firework festivals in Japan: but shaking their feathers to the beat hanging from the ceiling of the shop- tip of the iceberg of the eclectic lineup. arrive early to claim a spot. in what is possibly the city’s sexiest ping arcade, during both daytime Where: Makuhari Messe Where: Harumifuto Park, Chuo summer festival. and nighttime. How Much: ¥15,500–28,500 How much: Free Where: Around Asakusa | How Much: Free Where: Around Asagaya More info: www.summersonic.com/2015/ More info: www.tokyoweekender.com More info: www.asakusa-samba.org How Much: Free More info: www.asagaya.or.jp 5 AUG 29-30 6 AUG 21-23 7 AUG 28-30 8 AUG 7-9 Koenji Awaodori Roppongi Hills Bonodori Udon Battle MTV Zushi Fest Around 12,000 Awa Head down to Roppongi Udon masters will A weekend-long of dancers and countless Hills this Bon season for gather from all over the beach festivities, Japan’s more members of the public will take three days of dance, food and music. country to cook up the noodles, and biggest pop stars and bikinis—what in the parades which snake through A “yagura” tower will be constructed all you have to do is to slurp on them else can you expect when MTV pairs the narrow, atmospheric streets. in the arena area. and vote for the best. up with Tokyo’s most happening Where: Around Koenji station, Koenji Where: Roppongi Hills, Minato Where: Yoyogi Park, Shibuya beach? How Much: Free How Much: Free How much: Free Where: Riviera Zushi Marina More info: www.koenji-awaodori.com More info: www.roppongihills.com More info: www.yoyogipark.info How Much: ¥8,200–21,600 More info: www.mtvjapan.com

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST | AGENDA | 31 AUGUST

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11 PUT A SPRING IN YOUR STEP THIS SUMMER WITH A SPRING RACK OF LAMB

Beginning this month, and for 12 a limited time only*, enjoy a succulent spring rack of lamb from Outback Premium 9 AUG 14-15 10 AUG 8-9 Bon Odori Minatomirai Gakuten 2015 * Available until September 30th Aside from the ubiquitous An art, design and yakisoba and okonomi- performance festival by yaki, you can try different types of students and for students, presented We use the finest, juiciest grass-fed New Zealand curry from nearby hotels competing by the established Design Festa. lamb, which is briefly aged for four weeks in order to for a championship. Where: Tokyo Big Sight, Koto achieve the best possible flavor. The lamb is seasoned Where: Rinko Park South Plaza, Yokohama How Much: ¥800-¥1,000 How Much: Free More info: www.gakuten.jp with a special mix of spices and grilled, allowing the More info: www.tokyoweekender.com unique richness of the dish to come through. It is served alongside mashed potatoes and an assortment 11 AUG 14-16 12 AUG 15 of steamed seasonal vegetables. Summer Comiket 86 Asakusa Toro Nagashi This Whether you’ll don your unique festival presents best cosplay outfit or go a soothing view of paper there to browse the fan-made publi- lanterns set afloat on the Sumida cations, this event will give you more River. Participants can buy a lantern, than an eyeful. make a wish and release it on the Where: Stokyo Big Sight, Koto tranquil river. How Much: Free Where: Sumida Park | How Much: ¥1,500 More info: www.comiket.co.jp More info: www.e-asakusa.jp

www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 32 | WEEKENDER | EXPAT LIFE

Hammered Damascus Steel—Set of 2 or 3 Damascus steel knives have a unique appearance that is immediately recogniz- Carbon Steel— able. Available in a set of two or three, Set of 2 these knives come with a hard case for easy storage or transportation. This pair of expertly crafted (set of 2: ¥17,400, set of 3: ¥27,800) carbon steel blades provides you with the perfect kitchen combination: an all-purpose knife for meat and fish, and a small vegetable knife. (¥23,300) Carbon Steel wa-santoku With edges sharp and delicate enough to shave wafer-thin slices from a piece of meat or fish, Kamata Hakensha’s carbon steel knives are a perfect example of Japa- nese style and craftsmanship. (¥8,800)

Damascus Steel with Flower Pattern The stainless, cobalt-alloy Damascus steel blade is easy to maintain and keep sharp, while the floral motif etched onto the side and the wooden, Japanese-style handle transform this practical meat and fish knife into a work of art. (¥26,800–35,800)

AUGUST 2015 www.tokyoweekender.com EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 33

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www.tokyoweekender.com AUGUST 2015 BACK IN THE DAY: AUGUST 1975 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1975! You can read the rest of this issue (No.31 1975) and view Weekender’s 45-year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/ weekender-archives/ Photographing memories that will last a lifetime

Kimono Wa Studio is a photo studio that specializes in helping its foreign customers look their best. Clients range from individuals who are looking for a unique memory to share with their friends back home to families who want to celebrate a special occasion. Along with the choice of kimono, guests can choose from several different photo plans, and even take their kimono out of the studio for the evening. It makes for a very memorable experience for visitors and long- term residents alike.

KIMONO PHOTO STUDIO (wa) 804, 2-24-13, Meguro Nishiguchi Mansion I, Kamiosaki, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo Open: 10:00-18:00 closed on Sunday and national holidays T: 070-6455-9831 | E: [email protected] | W: www.kimono-wa.com/en