Unit 7 Waves– Review

1. Sketch a diagram of a wave and label wavelength and wave height

2. What is the formula for calculating the speed of a wave?

3. Why are waves in the ocean so much bigger than waves in a lake?

4. What does it mean to say that swell has a period of 10-30 seconds?

5. You are standing at the beach and observe 6 ft. waves striking the beach every 6 seconds. You estimate the distance between the waves to be 30 meters. How fast are the waves moving?

6. What is sea state?

7. What three factors are necessary to produce large waves in the ocean?

8. What is the difference between a developing sea and a fully-developed sea?

9. What is a wave train?

10. Which side of an island will experience the greatest erosion?

11. Define the following terms: Windward and Leeward

12. Use both words and pictures to describe two differences between deep-water waves and shallow-water waves

13. Most waves in the open ocean area caused by ______

14. What is “swell”

15. Describe the different movements of energy and water particles within a wave.

16. What does the Beaufort Wind Scale describe?

17. Which ocean has the highest average wave heights

18. Define the following terms with respect to ocean waves:

a. reflection:

b. refraction:

c. diffraction:

19. What are three causes of tsunamis?

20. What are three characteristics of tsunamis waves?

21. What characteristic of tsunamis makes them so much more destructive than ordinary wind-driven waves?

22. Why do most tsunamis occur in the Pacific Ocean?

23. What is the difference between a tsunami watch and a tsunami warning?

24. What was the deadliest tsunami in history?

25. Which strikes first, the crest or trough of a tsunami?

26. Do tsunamis form a single wave or multiple wave sets?