Real-Time Water Animation and Rendering Using Wavefront Parameter Interpolation
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Dynamic Behaviour of Hydraulic Structures, Part B
Dynamic behaviour of hydraulic structures Part B Structures in waves P.A. Kolkman T.H.G. Jongeling Delft Hydraulics The three manuscripts (parts A, B and C) were put in book form by Rijkswaterstaat in Dutch in a limited edition and distributed within Rijkswaterstaat and Delft Hydraulics. Dutch title of that edition is: Dynamisch gedrag van Waterbouwkundige Constructies. Ten years after this Dutch version Delft Hydraulics decided to translate the books into English thus making these available for English speaking colleagues as well. Because of in the text often referred is to Delft Hydraulic reports made for clients (so with restrictions for others to look at) we decided to limit the circulation of the English version as well. However, the books are of value also without perusal of these reports. The task was carried out by Mr. R.J. de Jong of Delft Hydraulics. Translation services were provided by Veritaal (www.veritaal.nl). Delft Hydraulics 2007 Delft Hydraulics Table of contents Part B List of symbols Part B 1 INTRODUCTION..............................................................................................................1 2 WAVES..............................................................................................................................3 2.1 Wave phenomena......................................................................................................3 2.2 Wind-generated waves .............................................................................................5 2.2.1 Wave characteristics...........................................................................................5 -
Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
Title Relation Between Wave Characteristics of Cnoidal Wave
Relation between Wave Characteristics of Cnoidal Wave Title Theory Derived by Laitone and by Chappelear Author(s) YAMAGUCHI, Masataka; TSUCHIYA, Yoshito Bulletin of the Disaster Prevention Research Institute (1974), Citation 24(3): 217-231 Issue Date 1974-09 URL http://hdl.handle.net/2433/124843 Right Type Departmental Bulletin Paper Textversion publisher Kyoto University Bull. Disas. Prey. Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ., Vol. 24, Part 3, No. 225,September, 1974 217 Relation between Wave Characteristics of Cnoidal Wave Theory Derived by Laitone and by Chappelear By Masataka YAMAGUCHIand Yoshito TSUCHIYA (Manuscriptreceived October5, 1974) Abstract This paper presents the relation between wave characteristicsof the secondorder approxi- mate solutionof the cnoidal wave theory derived by Laitone and by Chappelear. If the expansionparameters Lo and L3in the Chappeleartheory are expanded in a series of the ratio of wave height to water depth and the expressionsfor wave characteristics of the secondorder approximatesolution of the cnoidalwave theory by Chappelearare rewritten in a series form to the second order of the ratio, the expressions for wave characteristics of the cnoidalwave theory derived by Chappelearagree exactly with the ones by Laitone, whichare convertedfrom the depth below the wave trough to the mean water depth. The limitingarea betweenthese theories for practical applicationis proposed,based on numerical comparison. In addition, somewave characteristicssuch as wave energy, energy flux in the cnoidal waves and so on are calculated. 1. Introduction In recent years, the various higher order solutions of finite amplitude waves based on the perturbation method have been extended with the progress of wave theories. For example, systematic deviations of the cnoidal wave theory, which is a nonlinear shallow water wave theory, have been made by Kellern, Laitone2), and Chappelears> respectively. -
USER MANUAL SWASH Version 7.01
SWASH USER MANUAL SWASH version 7.01 SWASH USER MANUAL by : TheSWASHteam mail address : Delft University of Technology Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section P.O. Box 5048 2600 GA Delft The Netherlands website : http://www.tudelft.nl/swash Copyright (c) 2010-2020 Delft University of Technology. Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation; with no Invariant Sections, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back- Cover Texts. A copy of the license is available at http://www.gnu.org/licenses/fdl.html#TOC1. iv Contents 1 About this manual 1 2 Generaldescriptionandinstructionsforuse 3 2.1 Introduction................................... 3 2.2 Background,featuresandapplications . ...... 3 2.2.1 Objectiveandcontext ......................... 3 2.2.2 Abird’s-eyeviewofSWASH. 4 2.2.3 ModelfeaturesandvalidityofSWASH . 7 2.2.4 Relation to Boussinesq-type wave models . .... 8 2.2.5 Relation to circulation and coastal flow models. ...... 9 2.3 Internal scenarios, shortcomings and coding bugs . ......... 9 2.4 Unitsandcoordinatesystems . 10 2.5 Choiceofgridsandtimewindows . .. 11 2.5.1 Introduction............................... 11 2.5.2 Computationalgridandtimewindow . 12 2.5.3 Inputgrid(s)andtimewindow(s) . 13 2.5.4 Input grid(s) for transport of constituents . ...... 14 2.5.5 Outputgrids .............................. 15 2.6 Boundaryconditions .............................. 16 2.7 Timeanddatenotation ............................ 17 2.8 Troubleshooting................................. 17 3 Input and output files 19 3.1 General ..................................... 19 3.2 Input/outputfacilities . .. 19 3.3 Printfileanderrormessages . .. 20 4 Description of commands 21 4.1 Listofavailablecommands. -
OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen
11-14 May Bremen Germany Final Program OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen Balancing technology with future needs May 11th – 14th 2009 in Bremen, Germany Contents Welcome from the General Chair 2 Welcome 3 Useful Adresses & Phone Numbers 4 Conference Information 6 Social Events 9 Tourism Information 10 Plenary Session 12 Tutorials 15 Technical Program 24 Student Poster Program 54 Exhibitor Booth List 57 Exhibitor Profiles 63 Exhibit Floor Plan 94 Congress Center Bremen 96 OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen 1 Welcome from the General Chair WELCOME FROM THE GENERAL CHAIR In the Earth system the ocean plays an important role through its intensive interactions with the atmosphere, cryo- sphere, lithosphere, and biosphere. Energy and material are continually exchanged at the interfaces between water and air, ice, rocks, and sediments. In addition to the physical and chemical processes, biological processes play a significant role. Vast areas of the ocean remain unexplored. Investigation of the surface ocean is carried out by satellites. All other observations and measurements have to be carried out in-situ using research vessels and spe- cial instruments. Ocean observation requires the use of special technologies such as remotely operated vehicles (ROVs), autonomous underwater vehicles (AUVs), towed camera systems etc. Seismic methods provide the foundation for mapping the bottom topography and sedimentary structures. We cordially welcome you to the international OCEANS ’09 conference and exhibition, to the world’s leading conference and exhibition in ocean science, engineering, technology and management. OCEANS conferences have become one of the largest professional meetings and expositions devoted to ocean sciences, technology, policy, engineering and education. -
Spectral Analysis
Ocean Environment Sep. 2014 Kwang Hyo Jung, Ph.D Assistant Professor Dept. of Naval Architecture & Ocean Engineering Pusan National University Introduction Project Phase and Functions Appraise Screen new development development Identify Commence basic Complete detail development options options & define Design & define design & opportunity & Data acquisition base case equipment & material place order LLE Final Investment Field Feasibility Decision Const. and Development Pre-FEED FEED Detail Eng. Procurement Study Installation Planning (3 - 5 M) (6 - 8 M) (33 - 36 M) 1st Production 45/40 Tendering for FEED Tendering for EPCI Single Source 30/25 (4 - 6 M) (11 - 15 M) Design Competition 20/15 15/10 0 - 10/- 5 - 15/-10 - 25/-15 Cost Estimate Accuracy (%) EstimateAccuracy Cost - 40/- 25 Equipment Bills of Material & Concept options Process systems & Material Purchase order & Process blocks defined Definition information Ocean Water Properties Density, Viscosity, Salinity and Temperature Temperature • The largest thermocline occurs near the water surface. • The temperature of water is the highest at the surface and decays down to nearly constant value just above 0 at a depth below 1000 m. • This decay is much faster in the colder polar region compared to the tropical region and varies between the winter and summer seasons. Salinity • The variation of salinity is less profound, except near the coastal region. • The river run-off introduces enough fresh water in circulation near the coast producing a variable horizontal as well as vertical salinity. • In the open sea. the salinity is less variable having an average value of about 35 ‰ (permille, parts per thousand). Viscosity • The dynamic viscosity may be obtained by multiplying the viscosity with mass density. -
Variational of Surface Gravity Waves Over Bathymetry BOUSSINESQ
Gert Klopman Variational BOUSSINESQ modelling of surface gravity waves over bathymetry VARIATIONAL BOUSSINESQ MODELLING OF SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES OVER BATHYMETRY Gert Klopman The research presented in this thesis has been performed within the group of Applied Analysis and Mathematical Physics (AAMP), Department of Applied Mathematics, Uni- versity of Twente, PO Box 217, 7500 AE Enschede, The Netherlands. Copyright c 2010 by Gert Klopman, Zwolle, The Netherlands. Cover design by Esther Ris, www.e-riswerk.nl Printed by W¨ohrmann Print Service, Zutphen, The Netherlands. ISBN 978-90-365-3037-8 DOI 10.3990/1.9789036530378 VARIATIONAL BOUSSINESQ MODELLING OF SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES OVER BATHYMETRY PROEFSCHRIFT ter verkrijging van de graad van doctor aan de Universiteit Twente, op gezag van de rector magnificus, prof. dr. H. Brinksma, volgens besluit van het College voor Promoties in het openbaar te verdedigen op donderdag 27 mei 2010 om 13.15 uur door Gerrit Klopman geboren op 25 februari 1957 te Winschoten Dit proefschrift is goedgekeurd door de promotor prof. dr. ir. E.W.C. van Groesen Aan mijn moeder Contents Samenvatting vii Summary ix Acknowledgements x 1 Introduction 1 1.1 General .................................. 1 1.2 Variational principles for water waves . ... 4 1.3 Presentcontributions........................... 6 1.3.1 Motivation ............................ 6 1.3.2 Variational Boussinesq-type model for one shape function .. 7 1.3.3 Dispersionrelationforlinearwaves . 10 1.3.4 Linearwaveshoaling. 11 1.3.5 Linearwavereflectionbybathymetry . 12 1.3.6 Numerical modelling and verification . 14 1.4 Context .................................. 16 1.4.1 Exactlinearfrequencydispersion . 17 1.4.2 Frequency dispersion approximations . 18 1.5 Outline ................................. -
Waves: Part 2 I
Waves: Part 2 I. Types of Waves A. Deep-Water Waves and Shallow-Water Waves Deep-water waves are waves that move in water deeper than one-half their wavelength. B. When deep-water waves begin to interact with the ocean floor, the waves are called shallow- water waves. I. Types of Waves, continued C. Shore Currents When waves crash on the beach head-on, the water they moved through flows back to the ocean underneath new incoming waves. D. This movement of water forms a subsurface current that pulls objects out to sea and is called an undertow. I. Types of Waves, continued E. Longshore Currents are water currents that travel near and parallel to the shore line. F. Longshore currents form when waves hit the shore at an angle. G. Longshore currents transport most of the sediment in beach environments I. Types of Waves, continued H. Open-Ocean Waves Sometimes waves called whitecaps and swells form in the open ocean. I. White, foaming waves with very steep crests that break in the open ocean before the waves get close to the shore are called whitecaps. J. Rolling waves that move steadily across the ocean are called swells. I. Types of Waves, continued K. Tsunamis are waves that form when a large volume of ocean water is suddenly moved up or down. This movement can be caused by underwater earthquakes, as shown below. Destructive Forces Video I. Types of Waves, continued L. Storm Surges are local rises in sea level near the shore that are caused by strong winds from a storm. -
Recent Developments of Exploration and Detection of Shallow-Water Hydrothermal Systems
sustainability Article Recent Developments of Exploration and Detection of Shallow-Water Hydrothermal Systems Zhujun Zhang 1, Wei Fan 1, Weicheng Bao 1, Chen-Tung A Chen 2, Shuo Liu 1,3 and Yong Cai 3,* 1 Ocean College, Zhejiang University, Zhoushan 316000, China; [email protected] (Z.Z.); [email protected] (W.F.); [email protected] (W.B.); [email protected] (S.L.) 2 Institute of Marine Geology and Chemistry, National Sun Yat-Sen University, Kaohsiung 804, Taiwan; [email protected] 3 Ocean Research Center of Zhoushan, Zhejiang University, Zhoushan 316000, China * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 21 August 2020; Accepted: 29 October 2020; Published: 2 November 2020 Abstract: A hydrothermal vent system is one of the most unique marine environments on Earth. The cycling hydrothermal fluid hosts favorable conditions for unique life forms and novel mineralization mechanisms, which have attracted the interests of researchers in fields of biological, chemical and geological studies. Shallow-water hydrothermal vents located in coastal areas are suitable for hydrothermal studies due to their close relationship with human activities. This paper presents a summary of the developments in exploration and detection methods for shallow-water hydrothermal systems. Mapping and measuring approaches of vents, together with newly developed equipment, including sensors, measuring systems and water samplers, are included. These techniques provide scientists with improved accuracy, efficiency or even extended data types while studying shallow-water hydrothermal systems. Further development of these techniques may provide new potential for hydrothermal studies and relevant studies in fields of geology, origins of life and astrobiology. -
Investigation of a Simplified Open Boundary Condition for Coastal And
Investigation of a simplified open boundary condition for coastal and shelf sea hydrodynamic models by Patrick Eminet Shabangu Thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in Applied Mathematics in the Faculty of Science at Stellenbosch University Department of Mathematical Sciences, Applied Mathematics Division, Stellenbosch University, Private Bag X1, Matieland 7602, South Africa. Supervisors: Prof. G.J.F. Smit Dr. G.P.J. Diedericks Mr. R. C. Van Ballegooyen March 2015 Stellenbosch University https://scholar.sun.ac.za Declaration By submitting this thesis electronically, I declare that the entirety of the work contained therein is my own, original work, that I am the sole author thereof (save to the extent explicitly otherwise stated), that reproduction and pub- lication thereof by Stellenbosch University will not infringe any third party rights and that I have not previously in its entirety or in part submitted it for obtaining any qualification. Signature: . Patrick Eminet Shabangu 24 February 2015 Date: . Copyright © 2015 Stellenbosch University All rights reserved. i Stellenbosch University https://scholar.sun.ac.za Abstract In general, coastal and shelf hydrodynamic modelling is undertaken with lim- ited area numerical models such as Delft3D or Mike 21. To conduct successful numerical simulations these programmes require appropriate boundary condi- tions. Various options exist to obtain boundary conditions such as Neumann conditions, specifying water levels, specifying velocities and combination of these, amongst others. In this study one specific method is investigated, namely the specification of water levels on all the open boundaries using a "reduced physics" approach. This method may be more appropriate than Neumann conditions when the domain is fairly large and is also of particular interest as it allows measured data to be incorporated in the boundary condi- tions, although the latter was not considered in this study. -
Comparison of Various Spectral Models for the Prediction of the 100-Year Design Wave Height
MATEC Web of Conferences 203, 01020 (2018) https://doi.org/10.1051/matecconf/201820301020 ICCOEE 2018 Comparison of Various Spectral Models for the Prediction of the 100-Year Design Wave Height Sayyid Zainal Abidin Syed Ahmad1, 2,*, Mohd Khairi Abu Husain1, Noor Irza Mohd Zaki1, Mohd Hairil Mohd2 and Gholamhossein Najafian3 1Universiti Teknologi Malaysia, 54100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia 2Universiti Malaysia Terengganu, 21030 Kuala Nerus, Malaysia 3School of Engineering, Universiti of Liverpool, Liverpool, United Kingdom Abstract. Offshore structures are exposed to random wave loading in the ocean environment, and hence the probability distribution of the extreme values of their response to wave loading is required for their safe and economical design. In most cases, the dominant load on offshore structures is due to wind-generated random waves where the ocean surface elevation is defined using appropriate ocean wave energy spectra. Several spectral models have been proposed to describe a particular sea state that is used in the design of offshore structures. These models are derived from analysis of observed ocean waves and are thus empirical in nature. The spectral models popular in the offshore industry include Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum. While the offshore industry recognizes that different methods of simulating ocean surface elevation lead to different estimation of design wave height, no systematic investigation has been conducted. Hence, the aim of this study is to investigate the effects of predicting the 100-year responses from various wave spectrum models. In this paper, the Monte Carlo time simulation (MCTS) procedure has been used to compare the magnitude of the 100-year extreme responses derived from different spectral models. -
11 Ardhuin CLIVAR Stokesdrift
Stokes drift and vertical shear at the sea surface: upper ocean transport, mixing, remote sensing Fabrice Ardhuin (SIO/MPL) Adapted from Sutherland et al. (JPO 2016) (26 N, 36 W) Stokes drift | CLIVAR surface current workshop | F. Ardhuin | Slide 1 1. Oscillating motions can transport mass… Linear Airy wave theory, monochromatic waves in deep water - Phase speed: C ~ 10 m/s Quadratic quantities: - Orbital velocity: u =(ak) C ~ 1 m/s , Wave energy: E = ⍴g a2/2 [J/m2] 2 - Stokes drift: US =(ak) C ~ 0.1 m/s , Mass transport: Mw = E/C [kg/m/s] (depth integrated. Mw =E/C is very general) linear Eulerian velocity non-linear Eulerian velocity Eulerian mean velocity horizontal displacement vertical displacement Lagragian mean velocity same transport Stokes drift | CLIVAR surface current workshop | F. Ardhuin | Slide 2 2. Beyond simple waves - Non-linear effects: limited for monochromatic waves in deep water - Random waves: Kenyon (1969) ESA (2019, SKIM RfMS) Rascle et al. (JGR 2006) Stokes drift | CLIVAR surface current workshop | F. Ardhuin | Slide 3 2. Beyond simple waves - Random waves (continued): it is not just the wind : average Us for 5 to 10 m/s is 20% higher at PAPA (data courtesy J. Thomson / CDIP) compared to East Atlantic buoy 62069. Up to 0.5 Hz Up to 0.5 Hz Stokes drift | CLIVAR surface current workshop | F. Ardhuin | Slide 4 2. Beyond simple waves … and context Now compared to PAPA currents (courtesy of Cronin et al. PMEL) Stokes drift | CLIVAR surface current workshop | F. Ardhuin | Slide 5 2. Beyond simple waves -Nonlinear random waves …? harmonics, modulation … -Breaking: Pizzo et al.