Dispersion Kernels for Water Wave Simulation
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Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
Mechanical Dispersion of Clay from Soil Into Water: Readily-Dispersed and Spontaneously-Dispersed Clay Ewa A
Int. Agrophys., 2015, 29, 31-37 doi: 10.1515/intag-2015-0007 Mechanical dispersion of clay from soil into water: readily-dispersed and spontaneously-dispersed clay Ewa A. Czyż1,2* and Anthony R. Dexter2 1Department of Soil Science, Environmental Chemistry and Hydrology, University of Rzeszów, Zelwerowicza 8b, 35-601 Rzeszów, Poland 2Institute of Soil Science and Plant Cultivation (IUNG-PIB), Czartoryskich 8, 24-100 Puławy, Poland Received July 1, 2014; accepted October 10, 2014 A b s t r a c t. A method for the experimental determination of Clay particles can either flocculate or disperse in aque- the amount of clay dispersed from soil into water is described. The ous solution. When flocculation occurs, the particles com- method was evaluated using soil samples from agricultural fields bine to form larger, compound particles such as soil in 18 locations in Poland. Soil particle size distributions, contents microaggregates. When dispersion occurs, the particles of organic matter and exchangeable cations were measured by separate in suspension due to their electrical charge. Clay standard methods. Sub-samples were placed in distilled water flocculation leads to soils that are considered to be stable in wa- and were subjected to four different energy inputs obtained by ter whereas dispersion is associated with soils that are consi- different numbers of inversions (end-over-end movements). The dered to be unstable in water. We may note that this termi- amounts of clay that dispersed into suspension were measured by light scattering (turbidimetry). An empirical equation was devel- nology is the opposite of that used in colloid science where oped that provided an approximate fit to the experimental data for the terms ‘stable’ and ‘unstable’ are used in relation to the turbidity as a function of number of inversions. -
Title Relation Between Wave Characteristics of Cnoidal Wave
Relation between Wave Characteristics of Cnoidal Wave Title Theory Derived by Laitone and by Chappelear Author(s) YAMAGUCHI, Masataka; TSUCHIYA, Yoshito Bulletin of the Disaster Prevention Research Institute (1974), Citation 24(3): 217-231 Issue Date 1974-09 URL http://hdl.handle.net/2433/124843 Right Type Departmental Bulletin Paper Textversion publisher Kyoto University Bull. Disas. Prey. Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ., Vol. 24, Part 3, No. 225,September, 1974 217 Relation between Wave Characteristics of Cnoidal Wave Theory Derived by Laitone and by Chappelear By Masataka YAMAGUCHIand Yoshito TSUCHIYA (Manuscriptreceived October5, 1974) Abstract This paper presents the relation between wave characteristicsof the secondorder approxi- mate solutionof the cnoidal wave theory derived by Laitone and by Chappelear. If the expansionparameters Lo and L3in the Chappeleartheory are expanded in a series of the ratio of wave height to water depth and the expressionsfor wave characteristics of the secondorder approximatesolution of the cnoidalwave theory by Chappelearare rewritten in a series form to the second order of the ratio, the expressions for wave characteristics of the cnoidalwave theory derived by Chappelearagree exactly with the ones by Laitone, whichare convertedfrom the depth below the wave trough to the mean water depth. The limitingarea betweenthese theories for practical applicationis proposed,based on numerical comparison. In addition, somewave characteristicssuch as wave energy, energy flux in the cnoidal waves and so on are calculated. 1. Introduction In recent years, the various higher order solutions of finite amplitude waves based on the perturbation method have been extended with the progress of wave theories. For example, systematic deviations of the cnoidal wave theory, which is a nonlinear shallow water wave theory, have been made by Kellern, Laitone2), and Chappelears> respectively. -
Colloidal Suspensions
Chapter 9 Colloidal suspensions 9.1 Introduction So far we have discussed the motion of one single Brownian particle in a surrounding fluid and eventually in an extaernal potential. There are many practical applications of colloidal suspensions where several interacting Brownian particles are dissolved in a fluid. Colloid science has a long history startying with the observations by Robert Brown in 1828. The colloidal state was identified by Thomas Graham in 1861. In the first decade of last century studies of colloids played a central role in the development of statistical physics. The experiments of Perrin 1910, combined with Einstein's theory of Brownian motion from 1905, not only provided a determination of Avogadro's number but also laid to rest remaining doubts about the molecular composition of matter. An important event in the development of a quantitative description of colloidal systems was the derivation of effective pair potentials of charged colloidal particles. Much subsequent work, largely in the domain of chemistry, dealt with the stability of charged colloids and their aggregation under the influence of van der Waals attractions when the Coulombic repulsion is screened strongly by the addition of electrolyte. Synthetic colloidal spheres were first made in the 1940's. In the last twenty years the availability of several such reasonably well characterised "model" colloidal systems has attracted physicists to the field once more. The study, both theoretical and experimental, of the structure and dynamics of colloidal suspensions is now a vigorous and growing subject which spans chemistry, chemical engineering and physics. A colloidal dispersion is a heterogeneous system in which particles of solid or droplets of liquid are dispersed in a liquid medium. -
Spectral Analysis
Ocean Environment Sep. 2014 Kwang Hyo Jung, Ph.D Assistant Professor Dept. of Naval Architecture & Ocean Engineering Pusan National University Introduction Project Phase and Functions Appraise Screen new development development Identify Commence basic Complete detail development options options & define Design & define design & opportunity & Data acquisition base case equipment & material place order LLE Final Investment Field Feasibility Decision Const. and Development Pre-FEED FEED Detail Eng. Procurement Study Installation Planning (3 - 5 M) (6 - 8 M) (33 - 36 M) 1st Production 45/40 Tendering for FEED Tendering for EPCI Single Source 30/25 (4 - 6 M) (11 - 15 M) Design Competition 20/15 15/10 0 - 10/- 5 - 15/-10 - 25/-15 Cost Estimate Accuracy (%) EstimateAccuracy Cost - 40/- 25 Equipment Bills of Material & Concept options Process systems & Material Purchase order & Process blocks defined Definition information Ocean Water Properties Density, Viscosity, Salinity and Temperature Temperature • The largest thermocline occurs near the water surface. • The temperature of water is the highest at the surface and decays down to nearly constant value just above 0 at a depth below 1000 m. • This decay is much faster in the colder polar region compared to the tropical region and varies between the winter and summer seasons. Salinity • The variation of salinity is less profound, except near the coastal region. • The river run-off introduces enough fresh water in circulation near the coast producing a variable horizontal as well as vertical salinity. • In the open sea. the salinity is less variable having an average value of about 35 ‰ (permille, parts per thousand). Viscosity • The dynamic viscosity may be obtained by multiplying the viscosity with mass density. -
Waves and Structures
WAVES AND STRUCTURES By Dr M C Deo Professor of Civil Engineering Indian Institute of Technology Bombay Powai, Mumbai 400 076 Contact: [email protected]; (+91) 22 2572 2377 (Please refer as follows, if you use any part of this book: Deo M C (2013): Waves and Structures, http://www.civil.iitb.ac.in/~mcdeo/waves.html) (Suggestions to improve/modify contents are welcome) 1 Content Chapter 1: Introduction 4 Chapter 2: Wave Theories 18 Chapter 3: Random Waves 47 Chapter 4: Wave Propagation 80 Chapter 5: Numerical Modeling of Waves 110 Chapter 6: Design Water Depth 115 Chapter 7: Wave Forces on Shore-Based Structures 132 Chapter 8: Wave Force On Small Diameter Members 150 Chapter 9: Maximum Wave Force on the Entire Structure 173 Chapter 10: Wave Forces on Large Diameter Members 187 Chapter 11: Spectral and Statistical Analysis of Wave Forces 209 Chapter 12: Wave Run Up 221 Chapter 13: Pipeline Hydrodynamics 234 Chapter 14: Statics of Floating Bodies 241 Chapter 15: Vibrations 268 Chapter 16: Motions of Freely Floating Bodies 283 Chapter 17: Motion Response of Compliant Structures 315 2 Notations 338 References 342 3 CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Introduction The knowledge of magnitude and behavior of ocean waves at site is an essential prerequisite for almost all activities in the ocean including planning, design, construction and operation related to harbor, coastal and structures. The waves of major concern to a harbor engineer are generated by the action of wind. The wind creates a disturbance in the sea which is restored to its calm equilibrium position by the action of gravity and hence resulting waves are called wind generated gravity waves. -
Variational of Surface Gravity Waves Over Bathymetry BOUSSINESQ
Gert Klopman Variational BOUSSINESQ modelling of surface gravity waves over bathymetry VARIATIONAL BOUSSINESQ MODELLING OF SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES OVER BATHYMETRY Gert Klopman The research presented in this thesis has been performed within the group of Applied Analysis and Mathematical Physics (AAMP), Department of Applied Mathematics, Uni- versity of Twente, PO Box 217, 7500 AE Enschede, The Netherlands. Copyright c 2010 by Gert Klopman, Zwolle, The Netherlands. Cover design by Esther Ris, www.e-riswerk.nl Printed by W¨ohrmann Print Service, Zutphen, The Netherlands. ISBN 978-90-365-3037-8 DOI 10.3990/1.9789036530378 VARIATIONAL BOUSSINESQ MODELLING OF SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES OVER BATHYMETRY PROEFSCHRIFT ter verkrijging van de graad van doctor aan de Universiteit Twente, op gezag van de rector magnificus, prof. dr. H. Brinksma, volgens besluit van het College voor Promoties in het openbaar te verdedigen op donderdag 27 mei 2010 om 13.15 uur door Gerrit Klopman geboren op 25 februari 1957 te Winschoten Dit proefschrift is goedgekeurd door de promotor prof. dr. ir. E.W.C. van Groesen Aan mijn moeder Contents Samenvatting vii Summary ix Acknowledgements x 1 Introduction 1 1.1 General .................................. 1 1.2 Variational principles for water waves . ... 4 1.3 Presentcontributions........................... 6 1.3.1 Motivation ............................ 6 1.3.2 Variational Boussinesq-type model for one shape function .. 7 1.3.3 Dispersionrelationforlinearwaves . 10 1.3.4 Linearwaveshoaling. 11 1.3.5 Linearwavereflectionbybathymetry . 12 1.3.6 Numerical modelling and verification . 14 1.4 Context .................................. 16 1.4.1 Exactlinearfrequencydispersion . 17 1.4.2 Frequency dispersion approximations . 18 1.5 Outline ................................. -
Arxiv:1903.11909V1 [Physics.Flu-Dyn] 28 Mar 2019
Exact solution for progressive gravity waves on the surface of a deep fluid Nail S. Ussembayev∗ Computer, Electrical, and Mathematical Sciences and Engineering Divison King Abdullah University of Science and Technology, Thuwal 23955-6900, KSA Gerstner or trochoidal wave is the only known exact solution of the Euler equations for periodic surface gravity waves on deep water. In this Letter we utilize Zakharov’s variational formulation of weakly nonlinear surface waves and, without truncating the Hamiltonian in its slope expansion, derive the equations of motion for unidirectional gravity waves propagating in a two-dimensional flow. We obtain an exact solution of the evolution equations in terms of the Lambert W -function. The associated flow field is irrotational. The maximum wave height occurs for a wave steepness of 0.2034 which compares to 0.3183 for the trochoidal wave and 0.1412 for the Stokes wave. Like in the case of Gerstner’s solution, the limiting wave of a new type has a cusp of zero angle at its crest. Background.—The water waves problem even in the tial evaluated on the free surface. The expansion coef- completely idealized setting of a perfect fluid is notori- ficients simplify remarkably for two-dimensional waves ously difficult from a mathematical point of view. This propagating in the same direction and the infinite series is one of the reasons we have very few explicit solutions can be summed in a closed form if the wave steepness to the fully nonlinear free-surface hydrodynamics equa- is small. From the stationary periodic solution of the tions despite extensive research over hundreds of years. -
Known As the Dispersed Phase), Distributed Throughout a Continuous Phase (Known As Dispersion Medium)
COLLOIDAL DISPERSIONS Dispersed systems consist of particulate matter (known as the dispersed phase), distributed throughout a continuous phase (known as dispersion medium). CLASSIFICATION OF DISPERSED SYSTEMS On the basis of mean particle diameter of the dispersed material, three types of dispersed systems are generally considered: a) Molecular dispersions b) Colloidal dispersions, and c) Coarse dispersions Molecular dispersions are the true solutions of a solute phase in a solvent. The solute is in the form of separate molecules homogeneously distributed throughout the solvent. Example: aqueous solution of salts, glucose Colloidal dispersions are micro-heterogeneous dispersed systems. The dispersed phases cannot be separated under gravity or centrifugal or other forces. The particles do not mix or settle down. Example: aqueous dispersion of natural polymer, colloidal silver sols, jelly Coarse dispersions are heterogeneous dispersed systems in which the dispersed phase particles are larger than 0.5µm. The concentration of dispersed phase may exceed 20%. Example: pharmaceutical emulsions and suspensions COMPARISON OF CHARACTERISTICS THREE DISPERSED SYSTEMS Molecular dispersions Colloidal dispersions Coarse dispersions 1. Particle size <1 nm 1 nm to 0.5 µm >0.5 µm 2. Appearance Clear, transparent Opalescent Frequently opaque 3. Visibility Invisible in electron Visible in electron Visible under optical microscope microscope microscope or naked eye 4. Separation Pass through semipermeable Pass through filter paper but Do not pass through -
CHAPTER 3 Transport and Dispersion of Air Pollution
CHAPTER 3 Transport and Dispersion of Air Pollution Lesson Goal Demonstrate an understanding of the meteorological factors that influence wind and turbulence, the relationship of air current stability, and the effect of each of these factors on air pollution transport and dispersion; understand the role of topography and its influence on air pollution, by successfully completing the review questions at the end of the chapter. Lesson Objectives 1. Describe the various methods of air pollution transport and dispersion. 2. Explain how dispersion modeling is used in Air Quality Management (AQM). 3. Identify the four major meteorological factors that affect pollution dispersion. 4. Identify three types of atmospheric stability. 5. Distinguish between two types of turbulence and indicate the cause of each. 6. Identify the four types of topographical features that commonly affect pollutant dispersion. Recommended Reading: Godish, Thad, “The Atmosphere,” “Atmospheric Pollutants,” “Dispersion,” and “Atmospheric Effects,” Air Quality, 3rd Edition, New York: Lewis, 1997, pp. 1-22, 23-70, 71-92, and 93-136. Transport and Dispersion of Air Pollution References Bowne, N.E., “Atmospheric Dispersion,” S. Calvert and H. Englund (Eds.), Handbook of Air Pollution Technology, New York: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1984, pp. 859-893. Briggs, G.A. Plume Rise, Washington, D.C.: AEC Critical Review Series, 1969. Byers, H.R., General Meteorology, New York: McGraw-Hill Publishers, 1956. Dobbins, R.A., Atmospheric Motion and Air Pollution, New York: John Wiley & Sons, 1979. Donn, W.L., Meteorology, New York: McGraw-Hill Publishers, 1975. Godish, Thad, Air Quality, New York: Academic Press, 1997, p. 72. Hewson, E. Wendell, “Meteorological Measurements,” A.C. -
Realistic Simulation of Ocean Surface Using Wave Spectra Jocelyn Fréchot
Realistic simulation of ocean surface using wave spectra Jocelyn Fréchot To cite this version: Jocelyn Fréchot. Realistic simulation of ocean surface using wave spectra. Proceedings of the First International Conference on Computer Graphics Theory and Applications (GRAPP 2006), 2006, Por- tugal. pp.76–83. hal-00307938 HAL Id: hal-00307938 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00307938 Submitted on 29 Jul 2008 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. REALISTIC SIMULATION OF OCEAN SURFACE USING WAVE SPECTRA Jocelyn Frechot´ LaBRI - Laboratoire bordelais de recherche en informatique Domaine universitaire, 351 cours de la Liber´ ation, 33405 Talence CEDEX, France [email protected] Keywords: Natural phenomena, realistic ocean waves, procedural animation, parametric energy spectra Abstract: We present a method to simulate ocean surfaces away from the coast, with correct statistical wave height and direction distributions. By using classical oceanographic parametric wave spectra, our results fit real world measurements, without depending on them. Since wave spectra are independent of the ocean model, Gerstner parametric equations and Fourier transform method can be used with them. Moreover, since they are simple to use and need very few parameters, they allow easy production of ocean surface animations usable in movies and games. -
Micro Ocean Renewable Energy
Micro Ocean Renewable Energy Harvesting ocean kinetic energy to power sonobuoys, navigational aids, weather buoys, emergency rescue devices, domain awareness sensors and fishery devices a Small Business Innovative Research proposal submitted to: The Naval Air Systems Command Acoustic Systems Division, Code 4.5.14 Naval Air Warfare Center Patuxent River, Maryland 20670 submitted by: Tocreo Mark Krawczewicz Eric Greene Labs Tocreo Labs Eric Greene Associates 410.562.9846 410.263.1348 e [email protected] [email protected] Tocreo Labs Eric Greene Associates, Inc. Table of Contents Background .....................................................................................................................................................2 Abstract ...........................................................................................................................................................2 Anticipated Benefits ........................................................................................................................................2 Keywords ........................................................................................................................................................2 Identification and Significance of the Problem or Opportunity.......................................................................3 Phase I Technical Objectives...........................................................................................................................5 Phase I Work Plan ...........................................................................................................................................5