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Guide Wave Analysis and Forecasting WORLD METEOROLOGICAL ORGANIZATION GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING 1998 (second edition) WMO-No. 702 WORLD METEOROLOGICAL ORGANIZATION GUIDE TO WAVE ANALYSIS AND FORECASTING 1998 (second edition) WMO-No. 702 Secretariat of the World Meteorological Organization – Geneva – Switzerland 1998 © 1998, World Meteorological Organization ISBN 92-63-12702-6 NOTE The designations employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Secretariat of the World Meteorological Organization concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area, or of its authorities or concerning the delimitation of its fontiers or boundaries. CONTENTS Page FOREWORD . V ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS . VI INTRODUCTION . VII Chapter 1 – AN INTRODUCTION TO OCEAN WAVES 1.1 Introduction . 1 1.2 The simple linear wave . 1 1.3 Wave fields on the ocean . 6 Chapter 2 – OCEAN SURFACE WINDS 2.1 Introduction . 15 2.2 Sources of marine data . 16 2.3 Large-scale meteorological factors affecting ocean surface winds . 21 2.4 A marine boundary-layer parameterization . 27 2.5 Statistical methods . 32 Chapter 3 – WAVE GENERATION AND DECAY 3.1 Introduction . 35 3.2 Wind-wave growth . 35 3.3 Wave propagation . .36 3.4 Dissipation . 39 3.5 Non-linear interactions . .40 3.6 General notes on application . 41 Chapter 4 – WAVE FORECASTING BY MANUAL METHODS 4.1 Introduction . 43 4.2 Some empirical working procedures . 45 4.3 Computation of wind waves . 45 4.4 Computation of swell . 47 4.5 Manual computation of shallow-water effects . 52 Chapter 5 – INTRODUCTION TO NUMERICAL WAVE MODELLING 5.1 Introduction . 57 5.2 Basic concepts . 57 5.3 The wave energy-balance equation . 58 5.4 Elements of wave modelling . 58 5.5 Model classes . 62 Chapter 6 – OPERATIONAL WAVE MODELS 6.1 Introductory remarks . .67 6.2 Wave charts . 69 6.3 Coded wave products . 69 6.4 Verification of wave models . 70 6.5 Wave model hindcasts . 75 6.6 New developments . 80 IV CONTENTS Page Chapter 7 – WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER 7.1 Introduction . 81 7.2 Shoaling . 81 7.3 Refraction . 82 7.4 Diffraction . 84 7.5 Wave growth in shallow waters . 85 7.6 Bottom friction . 86 7.7 Wave breaking in the surf zone . 87 7.8 Currents, set-up and set-down . 88 Chapter 8 – WAVE DATA, OBSERVED, MEASURED AND HINDCAST 8.1 Introduction . 89 8.2 Differences between visual and instrumental data . 89 8.3 Visual observations . 89 8.4 Instruments for wave measurements . 91 8.5 Remote sensing from large distances . 93 8.6 Wave data in numerical models . 98 8.7 Analysis of wave records . 98 8.8 Sources of wave data . 100 Chapter 9 – WAVE CLIMATE STATISTICS 9.1 Introduction . 101 9.2 Definitions . 101 9.3 Presentation of data and wave climate statistics . 103 9.4 Estimating return values of wave height . 105 9.5 Further reading . 109 9.6 Wave climatologies . 109 ANNEXES I ABBREVIATIONS AND KEY TO SYMBOLS . 119 II FM 65-IX WAVEOB – REPORT OF SPECTRAL WAVE INFORMATION FROM A SEA STATION OR FROM A REMOTE PLATFORM (AIRCRAFT OR SATELLITE) . 123 III PROBABILITY DISTRIBUTIONS FOR WAVE HEIGHTS . 133 IV THE PNJ (PIERSON-NEUMANN-JAMES, 1955) WAVE GROWTH CURVES. 139 REFERENCES AND SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY . 143 INDEX . 155 FOREWORD The national Meteorological Services of a large number of maritime countries have, for many years now, been engaged in the provision of ocean wave forecast and hindcast services in support of the requirements of users in the whole range of maritime activities (shipping, fisheries, offshore mining, commerce, coastal engineering, construction, recreation, and so on). In recognition of this, and of the relative lack of easily accessible guidance material on wave forecasting method- ology suitable for use by national Meteorological Services in developing countries, the WMO Guide to wave analysis and forecasting was prepared by a group of experts and published in 1988.
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