THE AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY WINTER 2017 HISTORY DISCOVERED: Champagne Bollinger Uncovers Its Roots CHELOIS BORDEAUX’ RITE OF SPRING CHILE: Wine Without Baggage PARDUCCI, REFRESHED TASTE & SALIVATIONS THE WINES OF RUSSIA AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2017 | 1 RARE, EXPENSIVE, HANDMADE. AND THAT’S JUST THE CASKS. THAT’S THE GLENGOYNE WAY. glengoyne.com Take your time, enjoy your drink responsibly. Imported by Shaw-Ross International. SHAW-ROSS.com 2 | WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2017 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG IAN28167 Glengoyne 15 YO 10.75x8in Chilled Mag.indd 1 05/10/2015 17:46 features 4 | Jim Rink 20 | Roger Morris Editor’s Note Parducci, Refreshed Founded in 1932, Parducci Wine Cellars Welcome to the winter issue of the Journal. wants to boost its reputation as being one Winter has a way of drawing us down into of the leaders of this northern California 6 ourselves. We crave warm fires and wool country’s burgeoning wine industry. The clothing. Thick snow covers the landscape current vintage is its 85th. and all creatures with good sense hibernate. As the seasons change, so too changes our 23 | Kristine Austin taste in food and wine. Taste and Salivations 6 | Michael Cervin People often ask, “Is this a good wine?” and I always reply that if they like it, then it is a History Discovered: Champagne good wine. Bollinger Uncovers Its Roots 26 | Mike Botwin In 2010, an intern was sent into the laby- rinthian cellars at Champagne Bollinger in The Wines of Russia 10 Aÿ, France to begin cataloging some of the In the fall of 2017, my wife and I traveled three-quarters of a million bottles. to Russia with, of course, wine touring on the agenda. While Moscow and St. Peters- 10 | J. Stephen Casscles burg have long been on my “must-see list,” what really sparked my interest was my Chelois coming across the 2014 book Russian Wine Country—Sleeping Beauty Awakens, Chelois makes an excellent vinifera-like by Charles Borden. red wine that is complex, approach- able, and which has great balance and 30 | Ellen Landis, CS, CSW tannin structure. As an added bonus, it is a good performer in the field. 21 Wines to Watch 14 In her continuing column, Ellen Landis 14 | Roger Morris selects 21 wines for you to enjoy with any occasion or celebration. Bordeaux’ Rite of Spring 32 | Jim Rink Bordeaux has a long-existing annual rite of spring that is as stylized and predictable as New or Noteworthy the mating dance of the Sandhill crane. But, Of the approximately 1,200 wineries in before we get to the dance performed in Mendocino, Napa and Sonoma counties, early April, first some background. the regions most impacted, it is reported that fewer than ten have been destroyed 17 | Eric Miller or heavily damaged by the recent wildfires. 20 Chile: Wine Without Baggage The success of Chilean wines is not about their classification. It’s not about Arnold Palmer golf clubs or carbon fiber wheels. You don’t have to choose from the right or left bank. Or take out a loan to finance a great bottle. 26 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2017 | 3 editor’sLETTER JIM RINK VOLUME 49 NO. 3 · FALL 2017 Published by The American Wine Society, elcome to the winter issue of the Journal. Winter has a way of drawing a non-profit corporation, PO Box 889, Scranton, PA 18501 us down into ourselves. We crave warm fires and wool clothing. Thick W Single copies $5.00 snow covers the landscape and all creatures with good sense hibernate. As the Copyright © 2017 by AWS, Inc. seasons change, so too changes our taste in food and wine. Is it comfort we seek? Reproduction or use of the editorial Do we want to be warm inside as well as out? Perhaps you have a favorite winter or pictorial content without written wine? If so, let me know and we’ll feature it in next year’s issue. permission is prohibited. Library of Congress Class Number: TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 In this issue of the Journal, on the travel front, winemaker extraordinaire Eric Miller Publisher keeps us on the straight and narrow in the fascinating country of Chile, which has David Falchek a variety of climates, extreme high elevations, one of the largest deserts in the Editor world and a variety of soil types. Find out why Chile has wine, as Eric would say, Jim Rink without baggage. Contributing Writers Jim Rink, Michael Cervin, Roger Morris provides us with a welcome preview of spring with his article on J. Stephen Casscles, Roger Morris, Eric Miller, the Bordeaux en primeur barrel tastings conducted in April. Roger sampled the Kristine Austin, Mike Botwin, 2016 vintage and has plenty to say about it. Roger also explores the rich history of Ellen Landis, CS, CSW Parducci Wine Cellars of Mendocino County, California, which turned 85 this year. Editorial Office What makes a good wine good? Kristine Austin says it’s all in your mouth. If you Jim Rink BECOME A like it, then it’s good, and your tongue and saliva have a lot to do with how you 2800 S. Lake Leelanau Drive Lake Leelanau, MI 49653 perceive flavor. [email protected] Unsolicited manuscripts or other Also in this issue, Stephen Casscles introduces us to Chelois, a French-American information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. hybrid that makes an excellent vinifera-like red wine. And Michael Cervin literally uncovers history in the labyrinthian cellars at Champagne Bollinger. As always, Advertising Office PO Box 889 we have “21 Wines to Watch” by Ellen Landis, CS, CSW. In this issue, Ellen features Scranton, PA 18501 wines from California, Oregon and Washington, with British Columbia, Michigan 888-AWS-9070 and Israel thrown in for good measure. Bottle prices in this issue’s collection range (fax) 570.344.4825 executivedirector@ from $19 to $64. americanwinesociety.org Creative | Production Stay thirsty, 404.925.2677 The Blue Guy, LLC [email protected] theblueguy.com 4 | WINE JOURNAL : WINTER : 2017 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Founder The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A non-profit Konstantin Frank group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its members include AWS National Officers and Board of Directors wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional winemakers, chefs, wine President Treasurer Director of appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs and anyone wanting to learn more about wine. Kristin Casler Kraft Tom Wallman Member Services Director of Jay Bileti Vice President Educational Services Joe Broski Executive Director AWS ACTIVITIES Aaron Mandel David Falchek AWS Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually Secretary Director of Competitions monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, winemaking and Leanne Wheeler Joe Dautlick cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging events, and other Past Presidents wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have nothing to fear. Chapters 1967–1970 1991 2002 are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local Albert W. Laubengayer Stephen R. Kampers William H. Eisberg 1971–1972 1992 2003 chapter does not exist in your area, the national office will be glad to assist in forming a Robert A. Dickmann J. Randy Hurteau Frank C. Aquilino chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and 1973–1974 1993 2004 held in member’ homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. Carl W. Damoth Alcide L. Porrell Willis L. Parker 1975–1976 1994 2005 AWS Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine Jerry S. Miller George E. Wilson Tom Castronovo 1977–78 1995 2006 judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and dinners. Kathryn Froelich Kenneth P. Brewer Janice Cobett 1979–1980 1996 2007 AWS National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference and Joseph P. Nardone Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. Albert L. Guber, Jr. extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine-lovers, 1981–1982 1997 2008-2009 winemakers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Prominent John M. Hasson Eugene J. Spaziani Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine 1983–1984 1998 2010-2011 Michael A. Farren Gary C. Pavlis Willis L. Parker appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. Members experience fine food at 1985–1986 1999 2012-2014 connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of hundreds of wines and royal treatment by Lewis H. France, Jr. Gayle M. Darugh Jane M. Duralia the finest American hotels and resorts. The annual conference brings professionals, serious 1987–1988 2000 2015-2016 Thomas C. 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