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Pays d’Aix Alpilles Pays Salonais The must-do things this summer…

N° 6 - 2017 - Provence - 40 000 copies - Free Provence from A to… Z! B Borie A A traditional dry-stone Aglandau construction with a corbel arch A local variety of olive that roof that provided shelter to C is pressed to make our prized farmworkers. Cigale olive oil, along with other D Cicadas chirp all summer long Dégun varieties, Salonenque, thanks to their tymbals, A dialect word Grossane, and Verdale… operated by powerful muscles, meaning “nobody” as soon as the temperature that is now officially reaches 23°. in the French dictionary. I Instrument The galoubet plays the melody and the tambourin marks J K the beat. Together they Jump Kaas form the principal instrument Hard not to jump at the chance Patricia Kaas is one of the many L in Provençal traditions. of referring to this Van Halen celebrities who have made Lavande song, so closely associated as it their homes in the Alpilles, the Lavandin essential oil, a is with the Stade Vélodrome and Luberon, and the Aix region. lavender-flavored ice-c the Olympique de Marseille. and fields of blue as f the eye can see … Lav P is a symbol of our reg Pétanque R This particular game of bowls Ravi was invented in in Q Lou Ravi is one of the main san- S 1910 and would very much like Quinté tons in the Christmas Nativity to be an Olympic sport. Could Tiercé, quarté, quinté…are scene. His arms are raised as he Just like and Cinsault, this become a reality in 2024, if bookmaking options in . marvels at the miracle of birth. Syrah is one of the main grape the games are held in Paris? Will the local race courses be varieties for red and rosé wines lucky for summer racegoers? in the south. Your bet is as good as mine …

SUMMER IN PROVENCE Editorial By Rémi Lacassin Directeur de la publication, gérant : Nicolas Coissard Rédacteurs : Eric Morichaud, Rémi Lacassin Let’s share our joie de vivre! Traduction : Irene Chalmers Preire Crédits photos : X Istanbul, Bagdad, Paris, Damascus, London, Manilla, Melbourne, Man- Impression : Rotimpres chester… The list of cities that have suffered terrorist attacks this year is Rédaction-Publicité : 06 09 98 67 49 [email protected] a lengthy one. Faced with the crazed blood-thirstiness on the one hand Publicité et communication : and the difficulty of putting an end to it on the other, what can we do Béatrice Bettinelli : www.journaldesalpilles.fr - 06 03 29 74 62 besides resisting and remaining true to our values …? From L’Isle sur la Nadine Lefebvre Marseille : www.journalduluberon.fr - 06 09 08 91 42 Sorgue to Saint-Rémy via Aix and Salon, our lifestyle in Provence shines Lionel Matteoda : www.journaldupayssalonais.fr - 06 58 09 43 32 through every day and all year round borne by nature, culture, heritage, 44, rue Lafayette - 13 300 Salon de Provence festivities, gastronomy and more. sont édités par la SARL de presse Aurélia Editions, Join us this summer and we will all share this vitality, this joie de vivre in au capital de 1500 euros. RCS B 419 512 918 the name of those whose freedom and whose lives have been shattered.

2 A distinctive accent, stunning colors, a memorable heritage, age-old traditions, an exceptional level of sunshine, heady perfumes, unspoiled nature, authentic villages… In day-to-day life, we tend to forget how lucky we are to live in Provence. Fortunately, summer will soon be here, bringing us thousands of tourists who remind us how privileged we are. So, to thank them for that, here is a welcoming gift in the form of a lexicon of Provencal culture … By Rémi Lacassin E Empâtage This is the first step in the H manufacturing process of F Herbes Marseille soap, a product that Félibre G de Provence Gibassier still doesn’t benefit from a Pro- A poet of the Provençal Flavorsome herbs from tected Geographical Indication. language. The most famous A brioche-type fougasse bread the south-east: savory, one of all, Frédéric Mistral, (ʺgibetʺ in Provençal) flavored oregano, rosemary, thyme, helped create the Félibrige with orange flower or aniseed. sweet basil … Sprinkle them and the Coupo Santo. One of the traditional 13 over all your dishes. desserts at Christmas time. M Mauresque Recipe: 15 cl water, 3 cl pastis O and 1 cl almond cordial! Opies N Located in Eyguières, the Tour You might also enjoy Nostradamus a ʺtomateʺ (grenadine cordial) des Opies is the highest point rtisanal or a “perroquet” (mint cordial). The Renaissance apothecary, in the Alpilles (498 m) cream, author of the famous and is really worth a visit! far as prophecies, was died in Salon vender in a house which is now holds gion. T his museum. Tuber melanosporum Whether black or white, truffles V are part and parcel of Provençal U Van Gogh cuisine and are snapped up Unanimous Provence has always been a on the markets even though Yes, we live in the most beauti- source of inspiration to painters they cost the Earth. ful place in the world! We see from Cézanne to Van Gogh. it, touch it, breath it, hear it, Don’t miss the opportunity of taste it every single day! visiting Saint-Paul de Mausole monastery in Saint-Rémy.

W Welcome Some are tourists, others have a second home here, in any case many foreigners have Y decided to settle in Provence. Yankee Z X Beyond Avignon feels like Zef Ten in Roman the North ... Southern folks A slang term for a strong, have their own distinctive view numerals! wild wind. Welcome to mistral of French geography. country and its icy, Though Marseille was created blustery gusts. by Greeks from Phocaea, Roman culture is everywhere (arenas, aqueducts, etc.).

3 Les Baux-de-Provence

Saint Rémy de Provence

Maussane-les-Alpilles

Tarascon

Aureille Mouriès

4 communiqué | Decoration – Fabrics – Vintage toys – Antiques | Maison Dervieux, a mark of distinction

bell rings loudly when you enter this historic location in the center of Arles. This private mansion of more than 1000 m2 was built in the 17th century and has belonged to the Dervieux family since 1922. It houses an incredible collection of furniture Aand traditional everyday items from Provence and other (fabrics and vintage toys). The business was founded in 1884 by Antoine Dervieux, a craftsman who specialized in the restoration of fine period furniture.

Designing, manufacturing, and assembling

As a business favored by art and antique lovers, and whose reputation has travelled well beyond the confines of Provence, Maison Dervieux restores furniture dating from the 17th century to the current day. Their purely traditional skills and expertise can be fully appreciated in this exceptional setting. Besides that, this remarkable pillar of Provencal heritage also hosts cultural events such as the “Rencontres Photographiques d’Arles” (from 4th July to 9th July).

Leading names in decoration

The decoration area on the ground floor has a selection of fabrics suitable for upholstery and contemporary Arles costumes by renowned design houses: Pierre Frey, Canovas, Prelle, Veraseta, Leitner. Chantal, Frédéric’s wife, guides regular customers and inquisitive new visitors through these magnificent creations and can also recommend household linen (Beauville, Olivier Desforges, Libeco, Brun de Vian Tiran…), tableware (Villeroy et Boch, Porcelaine de Limoges, Ercuis stainless steel flatware), and lighting (Lum’Art - Objet Insolite). “Our trademark, our identity, is quality itself combined with the longevity of our articles.” They say as one voice. The good taste and the respect of such prestigious houses mean that the Dervieux can work with luxury establishments such as Baumanière in Les Baux de Provence and satisfy faithful customers looking for experience and expertise.

THE + They specialize in period traditional Provençal furniture MAISON DERVIEUX 5, rue Vernon 13200 Arles – Tel.: 04 90 96 02 39 - 04 90 96 15 04 - [email protected] Open on Monday afternoons and from Tuesday to Saturday from 9 am to noon and from 2.30 pm to 7 pm.

5 communiqué Les Baux de Provence | Events | The “Four Seasons” by Haas, the highlight of the cultural season This year, yet again, Les Baux de Provence has lived up to their reputation. As a place that nurtures the arts, they continue their tradition of hospitality by inviting painters, sculptors, ceramists and many other artists to set up in the various exhibition areas in the village. Welcome … he arty season has been going full swing since And also... the month of May in Les Baux de Provence. The Galerie de la Cure, in the square in front of the Until15th July, Cour de Porcelet church, is where Jean-Claude Quilici has chosen This photo exhibition is a tribute to Françoise and toT show his work and his strikingly colored lithographies Dominique Dupuy, both dancers and choreographers, that he has already exhibited all over the world. A true who, in 1962 in Les Baux-de-Provence, created the lover of the Alpilles, he has often painted them. You very first festival entirely dedicated to dance in France. have all summer to discover or rediscover his work. Free entry – Open every day from 9 am to 6 pm. From paintings to books with the 6th edition of the “Publications d’artistes” that brings together designers, On 12th July at 5 pm in the Cour de Porcelet editors, lovers of artists’ books in early June. It also (registration at the tourist information bureau is covers sculpture, photography and ceramics. Les Baux required), Dominique Dupuy presents a “Conversation de Provence holds exhibitions throughout the summer autour d’Israël Galvan, de la danse et du silence” and in various places in the village, thus confirming their will be accompanied by Christine Esclapez, Director of cultural vocation. the Department of Music and Musical Science at the Université de Provence. She is also a researcher at the Monumental works of art LESA (Laboratoire d’Études en Sciences de l’Art), and that are 5 meters high! the artistic director of the festival.

The highlight of the cultural season in les Baux de From 2nd to 17th July, Galerie La Citerne Provence has to be the “Four Seasons” by Phillip Haas. Yves de l’Avouillette presents his work. "My painting These sculptures, freshly arrived from the States by has become profoundly impulsive and spontaneous by boat in May, catch everyone’s eye on the castle nature.” Free entry – Open every day from11 am to 8 esplanade. These four monumental works are 5 meters pm (9 pm on Thursdays). tall and made from glass fiber and organic material were inspired by the work of Arcimboldo and have From 4th to 15th July, Galerie de Manville already been seen all over the United States. We are Eric Goncalves is exhibiting large paintings that testify sure they are going to be a talking point! to his constant quest for a space, a depth, a shape, and a vibration of color. Free entry – Open from 10 am to An exhibition of photos by Cartier- 12.30 pm and from 2 pm to 7 pm. Bresson in the Musée Brayer From 24th to 31st July, various locations in the We couldn’t give you a (non-exhaustive) list of the Alpilles cultural activities in Les Baux de Provence without The 8th edition of the festival a-part, “Les Paradis mentioning the Musée Brayer where, since 5th June, perdus/Lost paradise”, questions our transformation an exhibition entitled “The Mind’s Eye”, focusing on 54 at the boundaries of art and science, nurtured by the iconic photos by Henri Cartier-Bresson has been showing. political and social reflections of the artists. This exhibition of prints drawn from “The Eye of the Century” was organized with the backing of the of From 18th to 31 July, Galerie de Manville Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson and Magnum Photos. Wendy Higbee Carando, a bold and daring artist, left Legendary, timeless and quite simply a must-see! her native California in 1975 with just a bag and a Visits : every day from 10 am to 12.30 pm guitar and moved to Provence. Today, she is exploring and from 2 pm to 6.30 pm. “paper whispers”. Free entry – Open every day from For further information: 10 am to 7 pm. 04 90 54 36 99 - www.yvesbrayer.com From 19th July to 2nd August, Galerie La Citerne Four local photographers (Jean-Louis Puech, Paul Wanko, Gérard Campioni and Michel Bacquet) present their work on the Camargue. The artists depict life in What’s on in Les Baux de Provence The Pass Provence the Camargue made magical by the very distinctive light, by means of landscapes, fauna and flora. The tourist information bureau has several suggestions for family outings: for 3 events “Chemin Paysan” a walk with Bruno who will tell you about olive trees, The Pass Provence gives you admission From 14th to 25th August, Galerie La Citerne almond trees and other characteristic trees of the Alpilles. 1 hour. to the three events in les Baux de Baltasar and Aurélie Dürrbach have their works on The Duke of Montmorency recounts his life in Les Baux during Provence at a reduced price for a day or show. This couple of talented, engaging and radiant the Renaissance. A costumed talk as you walk through the town. 1 hour. several days: A multimedia show in the artists will display drawings and paintings (Baltasar), Learning to taste olive oil workshop. 1 hour. Carrières de Lumières, “The Fantastic and ceramics (Aurélie), and will be on hand to explain Develop your imagination: A photo workshop for teens who and Wonderful world of Bosch, how they have redefined the world in their own way can’t live without their smartphones. 1.5 hours. Age 12 and upward. Brueghel, Arcimboldo” + the monumen- and how they draw their inspiration from the Alpilles tal installation of Arcimboldo’s “Four where they live close to nature and that they love pas- sionately. Dates and information from the tourist information bureau Seasons” in the chateau + “The Mind’s in Les Baux-de-Provence.Registration required. Eye” exhibition of Henri Cartier-Bresson’s Tel.: 04 90 54 34 39 work at the Musée Yves Brayer. www.lesbauxdeprovence.com Tel.: 04 90 54 34 39.

6 communiqué Saint-Rémy de Provence | Comfort and style for your home cinema | The viewer’s choice for the Gold Palm goes to CcomOciné, cinema seating manufacturer eamstresses, upholsterers, cabinet makers … The experts who make cinema seating (whether electric or not) are, firstS and foremost, a team of qualified craftsmen. Ccomociné is a family business started in 2008 and they are at their customers’ service whatever the project may be. “From 2 to 20 seats, in several rows, with or without cup holders, whether chilled or not, with or without armrests, fitted with a USB port or not …” say Frédéric and Marjorie, a brother and sister team. back, tilting head rest…) for weeks, the time it takes to produce maximum comfort at home. Now, it, to finally be able to say Ccomo- with their comprehensive website, ciné*! Every order is tailored, according to abroad, inviting their customers to you can form an idea of your latest the customer’s wishes and budget. test all seat models and covers on *CcomOciné, phonetically “ generation, future equipment. Then c’est comme au ciné(ma) ” Seat, projection screen, home cinema the spot and that is a major asset! you just have to wait 3 to 5 short translates as “just like at the movies” setting, illuminated frames, backlit Leather or artificial leather, plain posters, optical fiber, decoration or patterned fabric, your home CCOMOCINÉ (carpeting, textile wall covering, cinema seat is highly customizable Route de – Entry19+911 - 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence etc.), accessories, lighting, all have with modern, luxury or retro designs Tel.: 04 32 614 566 - [email protected] -www.ccomocine.com their place with this seating specialist, to create an atmosphere that suits Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 9 am to noon in a room dedicated to cinema. you and your family because parents and from 2 pm to 7 pm. The company is based in Saint- and children can all memorize their Rémy and works in France and favorite positions (leg rest, reclining Possibility of calling on renowned architects THE + for instance “Lelièvre Paris” for furnishing fabrics

communiqué communiqué Saint-Rémy | Vélo Passion | | Café - Restaurant | Electric or conventional, Provençal flavors in a village setting why not rent a bike? ere in Provence, village squares ow that the fine H and their cafés weather is here, are more than just tra- NVélo Passion in St- dition, they are part of Rémy is a hive of activity. everyday life. In Maillane, “All our mountain bikes, Le Café du Soleil, has hybrid bikes, electric and more or less always been conventional city bikes (the oldest photo dates are ready for hire and, as back to 1895) central always, they will be in to village life, a friendly great demand so we advise place where you can you to book yours well in enjoy a meal. The Cosy advance,” explains Chris- Bistrot dining room, a tophe Gros, THE bike spe- terrace bathed in shade cialist in the Alpilles. and light, a cuisine filled with warmth and that can be shared with the whole table. We also Vélo Passion has a unique selection of bikes for electric Syncdrive Pro ™, the most powerful on sunlight are the trademarks of one of the most loved the zucchini flowers and the tomatoes and all purposes at interesting rates, whether you the market, by Giant, Matra, Solex, EasyBike…), renowned restaurants between the Alpilles and mozzarella like you’ve never tasted, the beef rib want to rent for a day, a week, or a month: for on and off-road riding, minus a 200€ in state the Avignon region, frequented by the celebrated and the strawberry tartlet for a pleasant finale. mountain bikes, full-suspension mountain bikes, or local subsidies! And as ever, the Christophe poet, Frédéric Mistral, in his time. Why not visit Le Café du Soleil on a Friday, hybrid bikes, and conventional bikes (from 15 € / Gros style for à la cart bike assembly for conventional In the kitchen, Chef Natalie composes with fresh Saturday or Sunday evening when the square is day and 75 €/ week), or e-bikes (from 35 € / day road bikes or mountain bikes, accessories, clothing seasonal produce, as often as not local, for a pedestrian-only? and 175 € / week), for all the family. They also for all seasons … creation executed with uncommon skill, simple rent carbon racing bikes (45 € / day and 250 € / yet imaginative; dedicated to real flavor, to impart LE CAFÉ DU SOLEIL week). the true savors of the South and the Mediterranean 11, place Frédéric Mistral - 13910 Maillane Especially interesting is the fact that you can VÉLO PASSION shores, for lunch and dinner, 7 days a week. Gar- Tel.: 04 90 90 80 89 - www.lecafedusoleil.fr 1, impasse de la 1ère DFL - ZAC de la Gare den-crisp salads from the kitchen garden and the Facebook.com/cafedusoleilmaillane have your rented bikes delivered where you are Dish of the day: 14 € vacationing (see Vélo Passion for further information). 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence morning’s market, grilled meat and fish and, of Tel.: 04 90 92 49 43 - Website: www.velopas- Lunch menu (dish of the day + dessert Their bikes are ready to ride and well-equipped, course, desserts that are entirely made on the of the day): 19 € - Menu 31 € - A la carte sion.fr Open from Tuesday to Saturday, premises … So many sun-drenched flavors that helmets included, because now they are obligatory from 9 am to noon and from 2 pm to 7 pm. Open 7 days a week from 10 am to midnight. for under 12s and highly recommended for are enhanced with tailored wine and food combi- Lunch and dinner served. everyone else! Vélo Passion also sells leading nations. Numerous rental solutions Our personal favorite was the inevitable aioli A superb wine list highlighting local brands of booster bikes (full-suspension and THE + for all kinds of fun! THE + estates, presented by Thomas

7 Saint-Rémy | Saint-Rémy | Stepping back in time in Glanum

With a history of nearly a millennium (from the 7th century BC to 260 AD) of occupation by three civilizations (Gallic, Greek and Roman), excavation started in 1921 to bring this exceptional site back to life. Beyond the Antiques, the Arch and the Mausoleum in Saint- Rémy de Provence, the gates of Glanum were opened.

By Rémi Lacassin

t was a town created by the Salyes, a Celto-Ligurian people, who took advantage of the natural ramparts of the Alpilles and the permanent natural spring; a veritable treasure that Iled them to believe that the water had healing powers and so they called their finding “Glan”, the god of the sanctuary. Thus Glanon was founded and history was on the move.

The next episode started with the arrival of Greek settlers established in Marseille and drawn towards the Rhone valley by trade. Gallic culture progressively became Gallo-Greek and several buildings saw the light of day: the agora, the sacred well, etc. The town, one of the biggest in southern Gaul, covered twenty hectares when the Romans arrived (-100).

In next to no time, the Romans razed the existing buildings while keeping the layout for a town that was now called “Glanum” and that counted nearly 3 000 inhabitants. The sacred spring area was opened up to Roman divinities. Pillaged and ruined by Barbarian invasions, the ancient town was abandoned, becoming a rich quarry for the inhabitants of Saint-Rémy who used it to supply stones to build their growing town.

That was the slow transformation of the site of Glanum that would soon be covered by aggradation (50cm per century!). This protective covering preserved the town so that the first archeologists found areas of it in relatively good condition. The curia apse was the starting point for excavations that would reveal only about 10% of what was Glanum…

So there you have the major lines of the history of the ancient site. If you want to fill in the details SITE ARCHÉOLOGIQUE DE GLANUM with more captivating stories, head for the site itself where eight reception and security officers Centre des Monuments Nationaux (five of whom are also guides) receive school groups, other organized groups, and individual Route des Baux-de-Provence - 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence visitors every day. Tel.: 04 90 92 23 79 - www.monuments-nationaux.fr

What to see … What to visit … What to do … Who to contact … Nearby … Less than an hour away … - Picnic at lake Peirou - Collégiale Saint-Martin - Hôtel de Sade - Office de Tourisme - Maillane: 8 km - Cavaillon: 26 mins - Wednesday morning - Van Gogh trail - Cloître Saint-Paul Tel.: +33 (0)4 90 92 05 22 - Baux de Provence: 10 km - Sénas: 34 mins market - Bull-fighting traditions de Mausole Open every day, morning - Châteaurenard: 12 km - Arles: 38 mins - Visit art galleries - Musée Estrine and afternoon - Eygalières: 12 km - Avignon: 40 mins in the town center - Website: www.saintre- - Tarascon: 16 km - Salon: 44 mins my-de-provence.com - Fontvieille: 18 km - Aix-en-Provence: 59 mins

8 communiqué Plan d’ | Kitchens – Bathrooms – Walk-in Closets – Layout and Installation | Cuisines des Alpilles, the expertise and experience of designer-manufacturers ould you prefer a d’Orgon for the design, manufacture cabinetmaker, manufacturer and contemporary kitchen and assembly of their kitchens. fitter. He can also supply you with in wood? Or would you Both these enthusiasts are driven stylish aluminum-framed glasswork rather it be white and by the desire to give each and every and works skillfully with materials modernW with stainless steel and a customer a tailored project, and not only for your kitchen but also central island? Or maybe a stone design kitchens that are both your bathroom, walk-in closet, or Provençal style kitchen? Or something functional and beautiful. “Made- interior design. trendy and industrial in unfinished to-measure here costs no more Giovanni has several hundred projects wood? Here, at Cuisines des Alpilles, than standard pricing elsewhere,” under his belt; all of them created you can find every imaginable style we are told at the shop, a dealership from the ground up. From the moment thanks to Giovanni’s design talents for Smeg electrical goods. the quote is signed right through to and Olivier’s cut-to-size creations. Over the years, Olivier, a former delivery, his originality and inventiveness They set up shop in the region workshop manager, has established come up with a whole series of high- several years ago, and chose Plan himself as a veritable skilled end accessories: LeMans corner space saver units, spice kits, bottles, bread unit, pull-out bin … Their designing and manufacturing expertise and experience stand out in a showroom that radiates a distinct atmosphere of good taste. Using 100% French wood for the 63, route de Saint-Rémy 13750 Plan d’Orgon traditional lines and original collections Tel.: 04 90 53 24 47 - Cell: 06 73 74 42 37 by an Italian designer for new- www.cuisinesdesalpilles.com generation models, les Cuisines des Open from Monday to Saturday, from 9 am to noon Alpilles focus on being local, offering and from 2 pm to 6.30 pm. Easy access and free parking. support, and the excellence of work A network of professionals for electrical, plumbing, well-done. THE + building and paint work

communiqué communiqué Saint-Rémy | Organic Viticulture | Saint-Rémy | Hôtel***** - Restaurant | Domaine de Lagoy’s rebirth Le Château des Alpilles, elonging to the same family since 1677, particulier in St Remy de Provence. an invitation to happiness the Domaine de Lagoy is one of the hidden The two red wines on offer are the Domaine de Btreasures of Provence. Set in the Alpilles Lagoy rouge, 2015, a subtle, well rounded wine n this beautiful 19th century residence with Le Château des Alpilles, a romantic destination in regional park, its fine, early 18th century chateau with delicate notes of black fruits and spices and, its park of century-old trees sits Le Château the heart of the Alpilles … is classified as one of the Historic Monuments of at the top of the range, the Cuvée de la Chapelle Ides Alpilles, a stylish and elegant hotel that France and its 18 hectare vineyard is fast becoming rouge, an elegant, well structured wine, its flavour exudes an old-fashioned charm. LE CHÂTEAU DES ALPILLES***** part of the local history too. Founded in the enhanced by black fruits, vanilla and liquorice, As the sun rises, it is most pleasant to take a seat Hotel - Restaurant 1970s by Jacques Senard on the unique terroir of with toasted overtones. The grapes for both wines on the terrace, surrounded by freshly mowed Route du Rougadou the Petit Crau plateau, its wines were certified as are grenache, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, together meadows and lulled by the sound of birdsong. In 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence organic as early as 2001. A further impetus was with marsellan in the first case and caladoc in the kitchen, Chef Mathias Bettinger is busy with Tel.: 04 90 92 03 33 given by Jacques' son, Olivier, who took over in the second. his vibrant, light, fresh summer recipes, to enjoy [email protected] www.chateaudesalpilles.com 2013. A new team now works in a brand new The Domaine de Lagoy also excels in its rosés, at the poolside from mid-June onwards. Stuffed vinery to produce a wider range of distinctive where cinsault, caladoc, grenache and merlot Closed on Wednesdays except zucchini flowers, John-Dory fillet with potato for July and August. Alpilles red and rosé wines - sold in a fully blend to produce summer wines “par excellence”: scales, lemon soufflé … Don’t forget to book Lunch and dinner by reservation only. renovated show room in an 18th century hotel the Alpilles rosé 2016, fresh tasting, with intense your table for dinner, whether you’re eating à la Lunch menus (from Monday to Saturday): overtones of grapefruit and cherry, and also, at carte or from the special menu. 2 courses (27 €) or 3 courses (34 €). the top of the range, the Cuvée de la Chapelle These are golden moments to relish with family Dinner from the à la carte menu or gourmet rosé, selected by the Guide Hachette for its or friends so don’t hesitate and push the door to menu at 50 €. freshness and elegance, with overtones of intense red fruits and peaches. Last but not least the Festejo, a rare bio sparkling rosé puts the finishing note to the new wine symphony of the Domaine de Lagoy.

DOMAINE DE LAGOY 9, bd Marceau - 13210 St-Remy-de-Provence Phone: +33 (6) 59 03 66 65 Domaine-Lagoy.com June to September: open every day, From 10 am to 1:30 pm and from 3 pm to 7pm. October to April: open on Wednesday, From 10am to 1:30 pm and from 3pm to 6:30 pm. And from Thursday to Saturday, 10 am to 1 pm Discover our tailored packages and 3 pm to 6:30 pm THE + for an unforgettable stay.

9 Marseille soap, a true story …

The cube of soap with the stamp on the side is a legend in its own right and has been part of everyday life down through the ages. Let’s take a trip into the world of the traditions surrounding the fragrant and inimitable Marseille soap.

By Eric Morichaud

rom Cresca Davin, who was officially (according The ups and downs of an economy to the story) the first soap-maker in Marseille, to At a time when the Age of Enlightenment was drawing Fthose few families who still carry on the tradition, to an end, overcome by a deep social upheaval, the the recipe has apparently remained unchanged and its Marseille soap industry was thriving with nearly 50 secret relies essentially on the maker’s skill and the use soap factories and a thousand workers who could be of natural ingredients. 72% vegetable oil, 28 % moisture supplemented, if necessary, with prisoners. Production content, a little soda, a little salt, a fire that is lovingly continued to increase, virtually unaffected by the stoked, and a master soap maker who, like the alchemist uproar of the French Revolution. that he is, reaps the fruit of his magic. The early 19th century saw ground-breaking progress It is a recipe for success that is closely tied to the history such as the addition of chemically produced soda (sea of Provence; a recipe that has its roots in distant lands, water, sulfur, charcoal, soda produced by the Leblanc colonies of yore and partners of today - Aleppo in Syria, process) and the use of oils from exotic places. The port for instance, with thousands of years of ritual soap of Marseille saw palm, copra, sesame, and ground nut making. Marseille soap is based on the same principles. oil arrive from Africa and the Middle East and, with The method arrived in France with the return of the these, the emergence of the white version of Marseille Crusaders, pilgrims, and merchants. The only part of soap that was so prized to silk manufacturers, hosiers, the original ancestral recipe that was kept was the use spinners, dyers and other textile craftsmen (notably of olives; this was a way of using the residue (skin, pulp those who produced Indienne textiles). It was a time of and crushed pits) left over after the first cold press of industry and international trade, and Marseille soap olive oil, the veritable green gold of the region… saw the arrival of a threat that came from “Perfidious There followed a boom at the end of the 16th century Albion” and from Paris, with competition from products where Marseille built the first soap “factories”, taking that were cheaper to produce but were based on the activity from a small scale traditional level and animal fat … raising it to a more developed stage of production that With the 20th century came a shortage of workers and still used the original methods. In the 17th century, of raw materials. Marseille soap was the victim of Provence cashed in on one of the natural local assets, naval blockades and suffered its first bleak times during gathering large quantities of salsola soda (opposite- the Great War when production dropped by two thirds. leaved saltwort) a plant native to the Camargue coast, At the end of the war, a little under 53 000 tons left the adding salt and a major part of the olive oil production. factories per year (as opposed to 180 000 tons before As hygiene practices and the need for washerwomen the war). The inter-war period saw new growth for in Marseille increased, as it did in the rest of Provence, Marseille soap aided by increased mechanization of in fact as it did everywhere else in France and Western the traditional recipe. The Second World War was Europe, so did the need for Marseille soap. The political sounded the death knell for soap factories in Marseille, climate was also favorable for this expansion because Salon, Toulon and Arles. After the war, the emergence France was at odds with Spain at the time and could of new products such as detergents and the first hardly count on raw material supplies from the other washing machines seemed to condemn Marseille soap side of the Pyrenees. to a limited production.

An edict to the rescue …A well known ambassador In Marseille in 1660, seven soap factories brought the 108 soap factories in Marseille and 14 in Salon de annual production to nearly 20 000 tons. The reputation Provence during the height of production and only 3 of the soap went beyond the limits of the realm, and 2 respectively today. It looked like the end of an beyond the Channel, the Netherlands, beyond even era. Not true says Julie Bousquet, great-great-grand- the Holy Roman Empire, and the buyers were legion. daughter of Marius Fabre, the founder of one on the Inspired by the success of a booming industry, there last two soap factories in Salon in 1900. As she reminds appeared a number of fake products on the market us, “Traditionally made Marseille soap is becoming more using the common name of Marseille soap. The situation and more popular in France and the rest of the world, was such that Louis XIV took steps to prevent fraud notably in Japan – the main importer.” So it’s a leading with an edict signed by Colbert the Younger, Minister product in the Provençal economy and thousands of for the Maison du Roi. The edict specified, among other fans of all nationalities come to discover at its fragrant Uses and health benefits things, the rules for soap-making - that it should be source! free of animal fats and that only pure olive oil should Whether it is white or green, Marseille soap is, first and foremost, a forerunner of ecological products; it be used. Besides this, manufacture must stop in summer is100% biodegradable, ideal for skin care and recommended for sensitive skins. Besides this, it is indispen- because the general heat was bad for the storage of sible for washing and removing stains from modern fabrics. It has also been called a miracle product – put the product as it was then. The edict also drew popular it under the covers at the bottom of your bed to fight cramps, use it as an antiseptic for slight wounds and attention to the importance of using Marseille soap place it in the wardrobe as a moth repellent. every day, which in turn fueled the expansion of soap- making in the Provençal hinterland. Salon de Provence, The “black” version is used in the home. Potash is added instead of soda and liquid black soap becomes given its location between the merchant port of part of our daily home care products replacing washing powder, floor cleaners, degreasing agents, paint Marseille and the Camargue, gained its place on the thinners, animal shampoos, and plant insecticides. map from this.

10 Provence | Traditional Fare | Traditional Provençal markets If there is one thing that the Alpilles, the Aix Where to find the main markets: region, the Luberon and the Salon region all have in common it’s the weekly market; Monday morning: Friday morning: Luberon: , Cavaillon, , Velleron Luberon: , Cavaillon, , Lagnes virtually every town and village has a morning Alpilles: Fontvieille, Saint-Etienne du Grès Alpilles: , Eygalières, , Fontvieille, market. Local fruit and vegetables, traditional Aix region: Les Milles, Luynes Graveson, Saint-Andiol Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Eguilles, crafts, olive oil, honey … the fare on every Tuesday morning: Salon region: Eyguières, , Salon de Provence stand more mouth-watering than the last. Luberon: , Gordes, Lacoste Make a point of visiting one! Alpilles: Cabannes, , Tarascon Saturday morning: Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Eguilles Luberon: Apt, Cheval Blanc, Le Thor, Ménerbes, Oppède, Salon region: , Eyguières Petit Palais Alpilles: Cabannes, Saint-Rémy de Provence Wednesday morning: Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Luberon: Le Thor, Gargas Salon region: Salon de Provence, Charleval, Alpilles: Mollégès, Mouriès, Orgon, Saint-Rémy de Provence Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Sunday morning: Salon region: Mallemort, Salon de Provence Luberon: L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Maubec, Coustellet Alpilles: Châteaurenard Thursday morning: Aix region: Jouque, Aix-en-Provence, Vitrolles, Meyrargues Luberon: L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Ménerbes, , Roussillon Salon region: Pélissanne, Salon de Provence Alpilles: , Maillane, Maussane les Alpilles, Noves Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, La Roque d’Anthéron Salon region: Sénas

communiqué Eygalières | Wine & Olive oil | Le Domaine de la Vallongue: flavor, authenticity, and terroir

ertified organic since 1985, elegant as always. Nothing is left to chance Cat Le Domaine de la Vallongue at the foot of the Alpilles. Their olive production has already reached record levels and their vineyard in Eygalières is doing remarkably well. Garrigues, Romance, Lovely…the vintages come in white, rosé and red and all have the same finesse, a subtle blend of suppleness and character. The wines can be tastes in what used to be the library of a Provencal farmhouse and is now a shop, located produces fruity green and fruity black olive oils. at the end of an alley of pine and olive trees. In 2017, Le Domaine de La Vallongue collected a Definitely worth a visit! number of medals and is not likely to stop! From The olive grove that covers the POD Baux de olives grown in such an exceptional terroir, the Provence (40 hectares), AOC Provence (15 hectares) shop sells the oil in several different sized cans and Huile de France (5 hectares) designations (25 cl, 50 cl, 75cl, 2 and 3 liters) and has an endless supply of gift ideas: table olives, green and black tapenades… as well as cosmetics (lip balm, dry oil, shaving soap, liquid soap or soap in bars …) all made with their own oil. Olives and wine are two complementary products with values that tourists and locals agree on: flavor, authenticity, and terroir.

LE DOMAINE DE LA VALLONGUE Route de Mouriès - RD 24 13810 Eygalières – Tel.: 04 90 95 91 70 www.lavallongue.com The shop is open every day from 10 am to 7 pm.

11 Maussane-les-Alpilles | Discovery | A story of Provence

Situated between the Alpilles and the Crau plain, Maussane-les-Alpilles welcomes you to another, gentler, way of life. The site was hewn by time and shaped by both passing popula- tions and a local economy that is tightly bound to Mother Nature. Let’s take a closer look …

By Eric Morichaud

n the beginning was Thetis, also known as the primordial sea, mother of all the oceans who left behind white limestone that would be the very foundation of Provence, from the Alpilles Ito the Crau plain. Through the ages, a water-logged land that was nourished by sediment and where life could develop slowly emerged … and much, much later, the first people settled there. So Maussane was in fishing country? That’s a thought that would certainly surprise the casual visitor but not those who had heard about the richness of the “Marais des Baux” from their forefathers. It was a stretch of wetlands that disappeared in the last third of the 19th century (drained for agricultural and pasturung purposes) although it remains present in the subsoil. The water supply has been ensured since 1914 by an irrigation canal (dug on the orders of the French ambassador Paul Revoil) and by numerous little streams that flow down from the Alpilles all year round.

Nowadays, Maussane-les-Alpilles is more of a popular vacation place, a place where you pass through, a place that has maintained its rural vocation. Basically, this boils down to PDO Vallée des Baux olive oil derived from salonenque, béruguette, grossane and verdale varieties. Of the many mills that were in service at the end of the 19th century only two remain and are proud of their expertise dating back to the days of the Pax Romana. In addition, the region grows grapes, notably for the vin de pays des Alpilles and counts many orchards. Finally, there is also grain production; the days of past glory are still celebrated by the revival of Saint Eloi’s Day (patron saint of farmers) and his Carreto Ramado (a cart strewn with leaves), a procession that is as impressive as it is high in color going through the village streets to the sound of tambourines.

Maussane is a tranquil, serene place too, especially when the wind dies down. This you will discover if you leave your car near the lush green Espace Agora Alpilles park that is home to a remarkable map of France in dressed stone. The map is as much a stone tribute to the diversity of our land as to the skills of the generations of craftsmen and sculptors who responsible for our national legacy.

Then head for Vieux Maussane, the historical center of the village until 1754 when the Eglise Sainte-Croix was consecrated; the church was financed by donations from Joseph de Laugier de Monblan. As you cross the older part of the town, the wash house, the Fontaine du Planet, and a number of well-preserved historic houses and the Notre Dame de Piété walls, give an impression of life in bygone days and village history. Return via the back streets and passageways that pass by the wash house inaugurated in the time of Napoléon III and designed by the architect Louis Astruc, till you come to the main village square. Here, in front of the Eglise Sain- te-Croix, the sculptures of the Fontaine des Quatre Saisons rise in tribute to water, the source of life. The architectural heritage is both opulent and discreet and should be savored slowly, so take your time.

Continue your walk around the village, perhaps taking a path heading up into the hills or another along the Via Aurelia and see the milestones that show the importance of this road between Latium, Gaul and Hispania for the Roman world. History and archeology lovers will no doubt explore the Castellas hill, a onetime oppidum and place of worship.

Ancient times and the accompanying remains and relics were succeeded by the Middle Ages which, for some authors, implies that there was a stronghold in Maussane. This is a concept to handle with care because no remains have ever been of such a place. The period was, however, strongly influenced by the lords of Les Baux and their castle, particularly during power struggles, successions, disputes, and wars. Religious unrest under the Ancien Régime, the arrival of the black death, and then the troubles that came with the revolution and the Reign of Terror, formed a bleak period for Maussane as for the whole Baux valley.

Much later, when the railroad arrived, Maussane developed a lease of industrial life on a human scale while keeping its initial agricultural purpose.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION, CONTACT: Maussane-les-Alpilles Maison du Tourisme Av. des Alpilles Tel.: 04 90 54 33 60 [email protected] Open every day from 9.30 am to 2.30 pm.

12 L’Isle sur la Sorgue | Tradition | Nego Chin, boating on the Sorgue

These typically Provençal boats are an essential part of the summer scene in L’Isle sur la Sorgue and provide a unique spectacle on the river. They are as much a cultural element as a sporting one – let’s find out more about them … ar from the Oxbridge boat race, Sorgue and are quite remarkable as as long as you have a “partègue” (a the Nego Chin Loin is a fun they glide along the river in July pinewood pole) long enough! item in the L’Isle sur la Sorgue and August. F Though the summer games are summer season. These unusual boats, with a standing “percheur” and a The president of the nautical spor- friendly they can turn into veritable “tireur” who lies in the bottom of ting-cultural association is Jean- battles on water (1.8 km covered in the boat making it easier to go François Guiseppi. The treasurer of 17 minutes for the best of them under bridges, over weirs, and this 350 member strong association and 40 minutes for the last ones) generally deal with any other obstacles (the biggest association in town) is that tourists just love and so do the date back to time immemorial … Vincent Rivoire and he and his locals, always enthusiastic at these more or less. friends are at the helm from springtime events. onwards. “From April to June, we Though they were originally used build and repair the boats. We have A refreshing attitude and a lot of by local fishermen in swamp areas, 25 of them plus another 20 belonging contagious bank-to-bank good humor then later in canals that served the to members who keep their craft in … wool and silk, the Nego Chin (literally our premises,” he tells us. He, like “noie-chien” in French, “dog drowner” his colleagues, cares about the envi- Further information: in English because they weren’t ronment and that includes rivers – www.negochin.fr very stable) have become a veritable the Sorgue is at a virtually constant The club is open leisure activity over the last century. temperature all year round (14°C). from Tuesday to Friday These 5 meter long boats for a This discipline can be practiced from from 5.30 pm to 7.30 pm weight of approximately 80 kg are the age of 6 in water as shallow as and is located a veritable institution in L’Isle sur la 25-30 cm and as deep as 4 meters, on the Portalet car park.

communiqué communiqué Maussane-les-Alpilles | Provençal cuisine | Saint-Rémy | Boutique Homme | Jean Martin: a mouthwatering range ARUM - An Englishman in Provence… of organic products for all tastes idden in a quiet street of Saint- Rémy de Provence, visitors and e used to be content to enjoy their organic organic range, you will love the collection of H locals with a love of great design Mediterranean tabbouleh (honey and Marcel Bio fruit juices. And don’t forget the 3 are invited to discover a selection of Wraisins), their organic eggplant caviar “fine ratatouilles” that were designated “Saveurs French and European gifts and practical with diced bell peppers, and their organic thyme de l’année 2017” (a consumer award). items for the home. After 10 years in a and tomato sauce …Only, this year, the people Paris buying office, Raymond, the owner, at Jean Martin have added new organic traditional recipes to their range. Besides the quinoa tabbouleh JEAN MARTIN headed south and opened this cool concept (mint and lemon), we also enjoyed the black 9, rue Charloun Rieu - 13520 Maussane-les-Alpilles store offering international brands and tapenade, the dried tomato and thyme cream, Tel.: 04 90 54 34 63 - www.jeanmartin.fr locally designed products for the home the zucchini cream with curry and coconut milk Special offers all year round in the shop and in the and l’homme! Raymond explains “I opened and, last but not least, the eggplant cream with webstore when you sign up for the newsletter. our first store in St Rémy in 2006, when I test and if they don't meet my standards, then I garlic and basil! Cooking workshops with Chef Yvan Gilardi on bought a local soap producers' factory shop. Little Wednesdays and Saturdays. See the program on don’t re-order!” These four spreads and a refreshing starter that by little, we introduced complementary products tastes of summer will soon be welcome guests to facebook.com/jeanmartin.fr The store has recently moved to new, larger like soap dishes and then bath accessories, towels your festive tables. Whether for family or friends, Olive oil tasting workshops with the Moulin Caste- premises, to the delight of its loyal client and dressing gowns. Slowly but surely, we ended Jean Martin’s recipes are all gift ideas that can be las on Thursdays from 10.30 am to noon. base. "We've moved around the corner, opposite up with a coherent range including cosmetics, appreciated all year round in the historical The boutique is open from Monday to Saturday the entrance to the town hall between the jeweller boutique in Maussane-les-Alpilles. Still in the shaving products, weekend bags, bluetooth speakers, from 9.30 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6.30 pm. and the pharmacy" says Raymond. “The new store fragrances and candles. Come and discover our is almost twice as big and allows ARum to propose newest range - Le Slip Français: an on-trend brand a wider selection of products in a more comfortable of underwear and swim shorts made here in France, setting." just an hours’ drive from St Rémy!” So whether you live locally year round or part Sober, neutral colours in the store create a time, or whether you’re on holiday in the region, masculine first impression, but take a second next time you’re in St Rémy, take a walk down look and there's plenty of choice for ‘Madame’ as one of the most beautiful streets in town and well!! Raymond prides himself on the customer pop in and say hello to the ARum team! service he and his small team ( Jeannie and Arnaud) offer. “We always offer a friendly smile and try to go the extra mile ( or kilomètre) to make ARUM the difference for our customers.” 25, rue du 8 mai 1945 “The vast majority of our products are tried and 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence Tel: + 33 (0)4 90 90 99 50 tested by me personally before being selected." facebook.com/arum.fr says Raymond. "When that’s not possible, I order, THE + The “Provence Box ensoleillée”, an inventive and clever gift (free packaging and shipping) Open 7/7. 10.30am - 1pm and 2.30pm - 7pm.

13 Murs Lacoste

Le Thor St-Saturnin d’Apt

Mérindol Buoux Oppède le Vieux

14 communiqué Luberon | Ventoux and Luberon wines | Aureto, all the flavors of wine tourism Vineyards, winery, cellar and storehouse, the star of the Ventoux and Luberon AOC wines, Aureto invites you to experience well-raised vintages and wine-growing expertise. An invitation that extends all summer long and all year round with numerous festive events. The cellar Have A Wine Break ! Tasting and sales Platters with charcuterie / cheese – Wine by the glass Wines, olive oil, marc, regional products, wine accessories. From Tuesday to Saturday from 11 am to 6 pm

Wine Tourism Events Tours of the cellar on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays “Le picnic ciné d’Aureto” - Friday 21st July at 6 pm. Meeting point at the winery Picnic from 7.30 pm – movie at 9.30 pm “Le bal du rosé d’Aureto” - Friday 11th August (free for individual visitors, groups should contact us). From 7 pm to 11 pm – Wine bar atmosphere, tapas, music Winegrower’s trail: take a stroll unaccompanied VIGNOBLES AURETO – TASTING AND SALES CELLAR D900 / chemin des Lièvres 84220 – Tel.: 04 90 74 54 67 - www.aureto.fr “Le picnic ciné d’Aureto” - Friday 18th July or with a guide (Wednesday mornings at 10 am). Picnic from 7.30 pm – movie at 9.30 pm Meeting point at the winery (free for individual Open 7j/7 from 10 am to 7 pm - GPS 043° 51.47.00"N, 05° 17.12.00"E “Le buffet nature d’Aureto” - Thursday 21st visitors, groups should contact us). September - Theme: “Vine and grape cuisine” Tasting workshops: Sensory analysis approach. WINERY “Le Noël d’aureto” - Saturday 2nd December By reservation only. Cost: 15€ per person Hameau de La Coquillade - 84400 Gargas - GPS : 043° 52.81’N, 05°19.02’E From 10 am to 6pm - De 10h 18h – Gourmet Christmas market

communiqué Saint-Rémy | Sun e bike | The specialist for your trip in Provence by e-bikes

ong ride (to 120 km), ride through villages After “On the Road to the olive’s trees of Provence” or mountain ride, Sun e bike has a large and “The Road to the Perched villages”, Sun-E- L range of e-bikes for all generation. Once you Bike allows you to ride through the wine yards, tried it, it is hard to do without! Well known from the lavender’s’ field. the lovers of rides by ebikes and of green and With rates by day, half day or by the week, Sun- effortless travels, Sun-E-Bike offers itineraries E-Bike is suited for every user, from the sportier across the Alpilles and Luberon area, as well as to the casual cyclist, and for every budget. the Chateauneuf du Pape and Vaison la Romaine With Sun-E-Bike, you have the guarantee of region. With an autonomy of 80 km (50 miles), itineraries built with care along paths, cycle roads you will conquer these picture postcard landscapes, and side roads, two well-known French brands on the charming side roads of our region and on (O2Feel, specialized in E bikes, and Peugeot- the latest generation of e bikes. Gitane, genuine institution in the pelotons) and With its two historical agencies of St Rémy de a bilingual team to welcome you in our agencies. Provence and Bonnieux, Sun-E-Bike has created With our advice, you will be able to stride across 2 new agencies in Chateauneuf du Pape and the roads of Provence safely, and take in the Vaison la Romaine. beautiful landscapes…

SUN E BIKE, LE VÉLO PLAISIR 2, rue Camille Pelletan 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence Tél : +33 (0)4 32 62 08 39 1, avenue Clovis Hugues 84480 Bonnieux Tél : +33 (0)4 90 74 09 96 [email protected] www.location-velo-provence.com www.sejour-velo-provence.com facebook.com/sunebike Open 7 days a week, from 9am to 6 :30pm. Visitors of the Alpilles, consider the Carrières de Lumières Pass, in the Baux de Provence, THE + at 35€ for a half day (ebike and ticket to the show) instead of 37€, and 42€ instead of 48€ for the day.

15 Provence - Côte d’Azur | Mas Amor: Seasonal rentals - Tour and visit org From Luxury Houses to tailored trips, an

Prestige properties, luxury villas, exceptional farmhouses … All year round, Amélie proposes extremely desirable properties to her French and international clients all of whom have the highest expectations. To top things off, she can also add 5-star concierge services.

A Summer in Provence: Why are more and more people coming to you? Amélie, founder of Mas Amor: When you’re on vacation, especially when you are abroad, you have no time to waste. My network, my responsiveness, and the quality of my services have won over a clientele who expects only the very best. Word-of-mouth has helped me develop my seasonal rental market all year round in Provence and the Côte d’Azur.

A Summer in Provence: What kind of houses are you looking for? Amélie, founder of Mas Amor: All of our villas were chosen for their beauty, their character, their style, and their outstanding location. Authentic properties, remarkably well-equipped (air-conditioning, heated pool, etc.), set in parks with trees. Due to our luxury hotel expertise, we can also offer 5-star concierge services that are much favored by foreign tour operators because they make vacationers’ visits so much more comfortable. If you are an owner of such a place, give me a call! I am always on the lookout for new properties to boost our offer.

A Summer in Provence: Do you still have places that are available for this summer? Amélie, founder of Mas Amor: Absolutely! Don’t forget that we have last minute offers, so do consider contacting me! Call me and I will find you the kind of superb villa that made our reputation. Likewise, when you arrive or even before, a simple phone call or email is all it takes to book your outing. Once you are here, your friends and family can take advantage of our services to prepare a tailored program for your stay.

A surprise gift for the 1000th Like THE + on our Facebook page. MAS A Seasonal Rentals - Tour and Visit Organization - Tel: +33 684 142 4

16 ganization | authentic taste of Provence

Want to get away from it all? Have a thirst for discovery? Need a change of scenery? With Amélie, you can easily and serenely head for new horizons for half a day, a whole day, or a weekend… And you can do it with friends, family or your loved one.

Activities for children Gourmet Outings Organized systematical tours with a theme can be tailored to your From cookery lessons that suit the taste of the younger heart’s content and give another slant on our region (“Vins et generation to French lessons where foreign and local Gastronomie”). The idea is that clients discover and immerse themselves in Provence for a complete change of scenery via unusual and original children can mingle with fun, Mas Amor has a activities. remarkable range of services for a young audience. All are successful plans for this atypical travel agency who has more Besides that, from the very start, Amélie has given than 90% international clients on their books, clients who come back every year for more of Mas Amor-style authenticity. “The quality of my part of her turnover (Fondation de France) to sick services has a lot to do with the expertise of the locals that I enjoy working children to help them go on vacation; a lovely gesture with…” says Amélie, a woman with hands-on experience in the field. on behalf of this responsive, unique and ethical travel Un Air de Famille, Le Moulin du Calanquet, Lilamand Confiseur, Gus Restaurant, All Provence Transport are part of our many partners and agency. providers.

Tourist Getaways “Truffle hunt” for an initiation into finding and appreciating truffles, “Wine tour” visits several wine-growing estates with a certified oenologist as guide (8 persons maximum). “Discover Camargue” and “The best of Nice and Saint-Tropez” make the most of the wealth of the region’s natural heritage, whereas “Tour d’avion” takes you for a 20, 40, or 60-minute flight over Provence… Mas Amor has authentic proposals that evoke the local color of Provence and the Cote d’Azur, accompanied by keen multilingual professionals. Click and book a visit to a honey farm, for a fishing or kayaking outing, an art workshop, and why not round things off with a stay at a spa center?

AMOR 463 - [email protected] - www.masamor-luxuryvillarentals.com

17 Life is just a bowl of cherries

t is the last fruit tree to flower and the first to produce! Cherries are one of the leading products in Provençal agriculture. The trees burst into bloom with the arrival of Home-made recipes and more … Ispringtime offering sumptuous landscapes bedecked with garlands of white flowers. 40 recipe to effectively fight cystitis (urinary infections) and urinary stones and is apparently a days later the view is completely different, and picking has started. The season starts around 10th remarkable treatment for cellulite. May and ends around 28th June. These red gems brighten the fields and … will soon brighten our tables! The Boil 50cl water. star of the show is the burlat cherry, large, red and sweet. But there are other varieties, much to the satisfaction Take it off the stove. of gourmets. “Dessert cherries arrived in the region after the frost of 1956; the tradition of master-confectioners Add 4 tablespoons of cherry stems. in Apt dates from before that,” explains André Horard from Gordes. Cover and let it infuse for 7 minutes.

As the years passed, six-meter (and sometimes more!) high cherry trees disappeared, as did the supports that The clafouti is the tastiest cherry-based dessert. Here is an easy recipe: held them up. Nowadays, they are between 3-4 meters in height and are grafted onto rootstocks which reduce Prep time: 10 minutes – Cooking time: 45 minutes the size of the trees. The time is gone where you would spend hours on the top of a ladder. These days, a good Serves 8 worker can pick 18 to 22 kg per hour standing on the ground. However, the passion remains the same, as in Ingredients: • 700g ripe cherries Barbentane, where Jean-Claude Malosse is the third generation of cherry producers. As do many other cherry • 2 eggs + 2 yolks growers, he rents beehives from a beekeeper and has a hundred or so on his land. • 100g flour The fruit results from cross-pollinationon by bees flying from one flower to another, from one variety of cherry • 100g brown sugar • 25cl milk to another. Here, they grow several varieties, from the very early to the very late: primulat, earlise, burlat, folfer, • 60g butter giant red, ferdouce, grace star, summit, Canada giant, newmoon, belge, noire de Meched, sweetheart… Proof • Pinch of salt that in Provence, production is dense and varied. Red and white varieties (napoléon, rainier, camus), mainly for • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract making candied fruit, share the market. Bruno Mille, president of the wine cellar in Lumières, grows both types, • 1 sachet vanilla sugar (optional) “Red cherry varieties have a longer season than white ones.” Directions: Cherries are well-suited to the organic market and can be savored in jam, as juice, in sorbets, etc. Though Wash the cherries and remove their stems. producers efficiently fight the Chinese fruit fly, they dread heavy rain. So, as soon as the first petals start to fall, Preheat oven to 180/200°C (gas 6/7) huge tarpaulins are stretched over the orchards to protect the cherries. These treasures are among the least- Put the butter into a pie dish and put it into the oven to melt. treated fruit … and the most appreciated! Beat the eggs, the sugar and the salt with a whisk or a food processor. Add the vanilla extract and sprinkle in the flour. Mix well until you have a thick creamy batter. By Rémi Lacassin Take the pie dish out of the oven. Add the butter to the batter and stir in the milk. Then add the cherries. Use a kitchen towel to wipe the remains of the butter all over the dish and pour in the mixture. Put several small pieces of butter on top. Bake for 45 minutes (until the top is golden). Remove from oven and sprinkle it with vanilla sugar. Serve warm.

Notes: The same clafouti recipe can be used with other types of fruit. Some people prefer to pit the cherries but the stone gives it a more pronounced flavor. Cherries can be used in savory dishes too. They add a pleasant sweetness to a filet mignon or a roast of veal, for instance. Cherry jam goes well with sheep cheese.

18 communiqué Luberon | Nursery – Rare plants – Adult tree specialist | AGRICOM, quality and diversity in their natural state!

GRICOM is a nursery situated A nature-centric nursery between Cavaillon and Monteux, near Pernes-les- Tall grass between the trees to encourage useful insects like the Fontaines. Since 1998, the ladybug to fight greenfly, sixty or so bee hives to help pollination, CharnayA family has been specializing and absolutely no use of weed killer whatsoever … AGRICOM is in adult trees, larger trees for committed to protecting the environment and promoting healthy individual customers and green plants, naturally. space professionals. In the 20 000 m2 park and greenhouses, you will find the insight and advice you need. Venture in and discover shade trees, quickset hedges, evergreens and, of course, one of the best selections of olive trees of all age growing naturally or pruned into cloud or ball shapes, in the PACA region. A high quality, tailored solution with healthy plants will be provided for all those who wish to plant offer (shade, the beauty of green nursery can make their dreams years old… “Nowadays, people bring elegance and blossom to your offer your garden a charming adult trees efficiently and effectively. scenery, the privacy that comes come true by helping them choose, would rather have fewer plants summer garden. A selection of these summery look all the year round “More and more, our customers with hedges, for instance) as soon selling them their selection, delivering than they used to and they want plus the latest arrivals can be found and visit our Facebook page, our who are building or renovating as possible without having to wait, it and, if necessary, supplying them to be elegant and stylish. on the Internet along with the website, and our premises! their homes and those who are sometimes for a long time, for them specialist advice on planting it. Gardens are minimalist and our latest news about the nursery. So, creating a green area, want to make to grow,” notes Nicolas Charnay, A mulberry tree, an Italian cypress, customers prefer Mediterranean the most of what tall trees can the manager at AGRICOM. The an olive tree that is several hundred plants that require little maintenance and little water. Their décor can be completed with a palm tree (many varieties), privets and ball-shaped hollies, ball-shaped or dwarf myrtle, honeysuckle, pistacias, ball-shaped abelias, pittosporums, photinias, dracaenas, yuccas, viburnums, or osmanthus. Bamboos and ever-present oleanders in all sizes (white, pink or red) will

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19 communiqué Luberon | Les Musicales | Patrick Canac: “Passion, diversity and excellence” Les Musicales es Musicales du Luberon first that take place at the Maison Dora one on Whitsunday. This year, on saw the light 29 years ago, Maar in Menerbes, a music lover 4th June the Ad Fontes ensemble du Luberon Patrick Canac, president and presents a composition … and will present Fauré’s Requiem and, have made one of the founders, surrounded then discusses it. These concertinos for the first time the choirs will Lhimself with people who shared occur five times per year and are a take part in Father Audibert’s mass diversity and his love for music. platform for young talents, music at 10.30 am in the “new” church in excellence their For the last three decades, Les students and local artists. Bonnieux. Musicales have put on a summer Then there are two other events, Goods starts for the summer... watchwords for festival in the Luberon. “Passion, the first one at Christmas, the second their summer diversity and excellence”, emphasizes Patrick Canac. Because here, the Thursday 20th July, 21h30, Carrières des festival but it is organizers may be modest in their : “Mozart, grande messe en Ut” passion that comments but they are always ambitious in their projects. “We drives their have always strived to put on high Saturday 22th July, 20h30, Carrières de Lacoste: founder, Patrick quality shows with the same artistic Opéra “Didon et Enée” by Purcell ambitions as the major festivals all Canac, and his around us”, continues Patrick Canac. Wednesday 26th July, 19h, Saint-Luc Church enthusiastic Centered on classical music in all (Ménerbes): Double concerto by Vivaldi its dimensions, opera, symphonic team. music, chamber music … Les Amandine Beyer, Emöke Barath the “Classical music is the mother of all Friday 28th July, 19h, Saint-Luc Church Musicales du Luberon have come soprano, Lajos Lencses on the oboe, music,” Patrick Canac points out. (Ménerbes): Voix et Hautbois, “Ventes et marées” up with a program of the highest and the piano and ‘cello duo Sonia “You have to open up and let your Wieder Atherton and Alexandra emotions flow.” And Les Musicales quality where “we have invited the Thursday 3rd August, 19h, Notre-Dame de Pitié stars”. This summer, these will be Paley, who will all take the stage in du Luberon know how to create (): “Bach, l’Intemporel” Laurence Equilbey, Paul Agnew, the quarries at Les Taillades, at the emotions that last well beyond the the violinists Carmignola and site in Lacoste, or in the churches end of a festival. of Ménerbes and Saignon. During the Samedis des Musicales www.musicalesluberon.fr

20 communiqué Coustellet | Optician | SEA, SUNGLASSES and SUNSHINE… summer at As far as sunglasses are concerned, this summer will be shaded for style and for the absolute comfort of your eyes. A promise made and kept by your Vision Plus opticians, Jérôme et Cédric. Right now, mirrored glasses – silver, gold, blue, red, yellow, green – are very popular and you can find them in all leading brand collections. A superb choice, along with all you need to know about performance and style, that can also be used as corrective lens frames for her, for him, and for all the kids.

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21 Fontaine de Vaucluse | Musée Pétrarque | La Sorgue, source of inspiration for the Romantic movement

The Musée Pétrarque houses some unique pieces of art, from engravings, sketches, and prints to the glory of the Italian poet and humanist, of Laura, the love of his life, and of the Village of Fontaine de Vaucluse. Not only these but also works by his Romantic successors and a col- lection of contemporary art.

By Rémi Lacassin

ar from the hustle and bustle that rises along the right bank on the way to the chasm in Fontaine de Vaucluse, is the Musée Pertrarque. It Fis a celebration of the Italian poet’s work, of Romanticism, and of his illustrious successors including René Char, Victor Hugo, Châteaubriand…

Once you cross the Sorgue, turn to your left and take the tunnel that, long ago, led to Petrarch’s home. And there, in a haven of greenery, at the foot of a garden vibrant with roses, you step into the time machine. Born in 1304, the humanist that was Petrarch was passionate about classical Roman history; he was also a great collector who travelled the length and breadth of the départment from Carpentras to Avignon via mount Ventoux and, obviously, visited Fontaine de Vaucluse …

“There are places where you can discover who you really are. For Petrarch, that place was the Vaucluse. What he discovered within himself in this place of sojourn, of comings and goings, was the very essence of the act of writing,” according to Eve Duperray in “Un archétype du retrait : Pétrarque à Vaucluse ou l'écart de la vie pour la domination de l'esprit”. Illustrious René Char!

The museum has three levels, the first being exclusively reserved for important followers of Petrarch; among these is René Char, a 20th century poet who was born in L’Isle sur la Sorgue and who greatly supported the reopening of the museum in 1986. An artistic heir among many, René Char was immersed in this poetic spring, this veritable fuel for artistic creativity. On the first floor is a permanent collection together with a number of early editions of works by the Tuscan poet sublimating this monument dedicated to art and literature. Petrarch gradually abandoned Latin to breathe first life into modern Italian.

Alongside the modern work of Caroline Challeau are engravings, some to the glory of Petrarch, others of Laura, the love of his life, and also of Fontaine de Vaucluse. It is interesting to see some very different representations of the artist and his (fantasy?) muse. The village of the time was also very different, inhabited on the left bank where the paper industry workers lodged, and deserted on the right bank… Quite the opposite of what it is today! Hugo, Braque, Picasso, Giacometti...

Among the nuggets in this singular heritage is a first incunabular edition of Petrarch’s works dated 1496, a letter from Victor Hugo apologizing for not being able to be present to honor the memory of Petrarch, some writings that are philosophical or political and others poetic, a copy of “The ascent of Mount Ventoux” (of which only ten copies were printed) signed by the Renaissance poet himself, a portrait of Laura that was acquired in 2012, and an oil painting on canvas that was remarkably well restored by Marine Victorien, a specialist from Cavaillon.

All of these unique pieces will round off your visit to Fontaine de Vaucluse; they made it an early tourist destination for the Romantics seeking anything that had to do with Petrarch and his incomparable poetic works. In 2004, the 700th anniversary of Petrarch’s birth was celebrated with great pomp and ceremony in the museum-library (property of the Département of Vaucluse) which, on the second floor, houses a collection of contemporary art works including the “Trésor au 1624 monnaies” (a collection of bronze, silver and gold coins), found in the chasm over the centuries… MUSÉE BIBLIOTHÈQUE FRANÇOIS PÉTRARQUE He who said he was writing for posterity – “what adds to this place not in beauty but in celebrity if not my sojourn? It has become, thanks to me, no less Château Vieux famous than it was for its magnificent spring” - succeeded in this and over the centuries his successors have joined him, falling under the spell of the 84800 Fontaine-de-Vaucluse place, from Braque to Giacometti, including Mirò, Zao-Wou-Ki, Picasso, Sima de Staël… Tel.: 04 90 20 37 20

What to see … What to visit … What to do … Who to contact … Nearby … Less than an hour away … - Vallis Clausa paper mill - Musée-Bibliothèque - Canoe or kayak down - Maison de Tourisme Saumane: 4 km Cavaillon: 31 mins - Column raised by the François Pétrarque the Sorgue river Tel.: 04 90 20 32 22 L’Isle sur la Sorgue: 7 km Carpentras: 35 mins Athénée de Vaucluse - Musée d’Histoire 1939- - Nature trails - Website: www.oti-dela- Robion: 12 km Sénas: 42 mins - Ecomuseum of santons 45, L’Appel de la Liberté - Visit inside the abyss sorgue.fr Oppède: 13 km Avignon: 50 mins and Provençal traditions - Norbert Casteret under- with the speleological Gordes: 14 km Saint-Rémy: 52 mins ground world collection society Venasque: 18 km Salon: 53 mins

22 communiqué Luberon Alpilles Pays d'Aix | House management - Rental management | Menz House Management at your service Roman Menz manager, excels in terms of tailored Whether you need a housekeeper solutions with a broad and varied to help you with your administrative range of a la carte services, due to his needs and the day-to-day management hether your property long and successful experience in of suppliers and service providers, is in the Luberon, the tourism, banking, management and or a full-blown concierge service Alpilles, or the Aix construction. He is your single, for you or your seasonal renters, region, Menz House dedicated point of contact, working Menz House Management makes hasW top-notch services that can take in the field the whole year round. your life easier by ensuring that care of everything so that you can Active surveillance, the care and main- your property is always well-kept make the most of it. We have to tenance of your home, garden and and welcoming for you and your say that Roman Menz, the company leisure areas, swimming pool … guests, safely and effectively.

Likewise for work management, And for those who have not yet Menz House Management can deal bought their dream house, the with comparative quotes and take company can help you find it and care of worksite supervision, after- finance it, by guiding you through sales service, interior design and the process of acquisition. 614, chemin des Etangs decoration … while you are gone. Visit our website, www.menz.fr, to 84800 Lagnes Menz House Management can also see our properties for rent and Roman Menz: ensure the rental management of discover the Menz House Management 00 33 (0)6 47 81 75 79 [email protected] your properties, from drawing up approach and services. www.menz.fr contracts to preparing the house and the reception of the renters. THE + English spoken. Wir sprechen deutsch. Trilingual website

communiqué Pernes-les-Fontaines | Lou mas des 7 lieux | An authentic atmosphere of outdoor cafés and junk shops for food lovers here else can you browse, eat, find gifts, read, listen to music, watch, play, …? Lou mas des 7W lieux is, primarily, a Provençal building that Philippe and Véronique fell for in Pernes-les-Fontaines during the summer of 2016. Nearly a year later, this atypical place, made of “wood and rust” according to Philippe, was opened to the public on 24th May. There is a feel of junk shops and bargain-hunting here that you won’t find anywhere with lamps and accordion music surprising adventure. We recommend else. with a carefully selected play list or you come to one of the “Sunday You can relax in the shade of a tunes chosen by the visiting group. Blues” evenings where you can tuck plane tree in a joyous clutter of Lou mas des 7 lieux is a unique, into a jambalaya, a specialty from objects to comb through, or discover joyful place where every meal is a Louisiana. the work of artists on show (particularly that of Jean-Philippe Fally, a wrought- LOU MAS DES 7 LIEUX iron craftsman from Les Valayans), 150, avenue des Castanes or 50 traverse de l’Audifrette or play a game of pétanque or skittles mussels with vegetable fries, sardines from Oklahoma City) and the Asado on. Should you feel so inclined you (near the Gendarmerie) - 84210 Pernes-les-Fontaines or any other of their old-fashioned or fried fish, for an outdoor lunch. Argentinian barbecue are both used might sit at one of the “tables Tel.: 09 67 82 05 65 - Cell: 06 42 61 36 37 games and, above all, you can nibble In the evening, rustic dinners are to cook meat, fish, and vegetables. d’autres”, designed for people who www.loumasdes7lieux.com on lots of delicious treats. cooked in the period Victorian oven The restaurant at Lou mas des 7 want to eat alongside others for a Open from 11 am to midnight (the music stops at 11pm), every day except Tuesdays from 24th May onwards. At noon, Lou Mas des 7 Lieux offers (stuffed jacket potatoes and stuffed lieux also uses high quality local moment of shared conviviality. All a menu of sweet and savory crêpes, vegetables), the smoker (straight produce for tasty morsels to snack of this has a feel of an outdoor café, The reading shack where you can bring a book, browse, THE + and leave with another one

23 Lacoste | Festival | Opera, theater, songs … a festival of pleasure

In the Théâtre or the last 17 years, Pierre Cardin has revealed the festival des Carrières Fprogram in the château that and the Chateau once belonged to the Marquis de de Lacoste, Sade. Eve Ruggieri, the artistic director, shows once again the the festival dependability and devotion of a is now at its man, of a place, of a desire. The desire to bring high quality, diversified 17th edition. entertainment to the Luberon in an For the 17th outstanding setting. year running, Now aged 95, the world-famous Pierre Cardin couturier, announces, always without pretention, the program that he proposes a has selected, confessing to a weakness festival of for young performers who will pursue great quality, their careers and artists that are renowned in France and beyond. featuring young For this is one of his callings, making artists and this festival one of the most popular experienced events for music, opera, songs, theater … or in the Chateau, beginning with a while Jodie Devos sings soprano, performers.. certain Michel Drucker who lives Tristan Llyr-Griffitis sings tenor, Once again, this season, a myriad of locally (Eygalières). He is putting Delphine Haidan sings mezzo, François By Nicolas Coissard surprises and encounters await the on his one-man show, “Seul… avec Lis sings bass,and the Stella-Maris spectator. In order of appearance vous”, where the presenter is, for choir and the Orchestre Prométhé on stage in the Théâtre des Carrieres once, alone with his audience. Sonya accompany this evening under the Yoncheva, met with great success Lacoste sky. for the interpretation of Violetta in Berlin and is considered to be On a lighter note, “Parlez moi the “best Traviata in the world” d’amour au lit” is a collection of according to the German newspaper love songs to get you dancing, by Die Welt. Eve Ruggieri who backed Gérard Chambre and his troupe. her debut in the Chartres festival, Then back to classics with “Mozart Lacoste Festival 2017 et ses amis les castrats”, directed by convinced her to give a recital in Saturday 15th July: Eve Ruggieri, with vocals by Ambroisine Lacoste. Seul… avec vous, One-Man-Show with Michel Drucker, Bré and Yoshiko Moriai at the piano. Théâtre des Carrières Gérard Chambre, a frequent visitor, Following this, Les Musicales du will launch “les 3 Feydeau”, a musical Sunday 16th July: Luberon will take the stage. Pierre that relates the three stages of the Sonya Yoncheva Recital, presented by Eve Ruggieri, Cardin has invited Patrick Canac’s celebrated playwright’s live via 3 Théâtre des Carrières extracts from his plays in one act. group for an evening of opera every year for the past ten years. This Monday 17th July: Then it’s over to opera with Mozart’s year they will be presenting a Les 3 Feydeau, musical by Gérard Chambre, Requiem that evokes with delight Baroque opera, “Dido and Aneas” Cinéma - Gare de Bonnieux “his magnificent genius, for Mozart by Desmarest and Purcell. This will Tuesday 18th July: is one of us and relates our emotions”. take place in the Théâtre des Carrieres Mozart’s Requiem proposed by Eve Ruggieri, This concerto for clarinet in A major to lend even more solemnity to the Théâtre des Carrières was composed for the virtuoso Anton performance conducted by Paul Stadler in 1791. Over two centuries Agnew, joint musical director of Les Thursday 20th July: later, it is Florent Heau who plays Arts Florissants. Parlez-moi d’amour au lit, musical By Gérard Chambre, Château Finally, time for originality and musicality with songwriter-compo- Friday 21st July: ser-performer of folk, fado, and Mozart et ses amis les Castrats, musical classical music, Dulce Pontes, who proposed by Eve Ruggieri, Château takes music by Ennio Morricone Saturday 22nd July: (among others) to a whole new Dido and Aneas, Opera, Musicales du Luberon, level. Théâtre des Carrières Monday 24th July: Dulce Pontes in concert, Théâtre des Carrières

Festival de Lacoste - www.festivaldelacoste From 40 to 120 € - Booking: 0892 68 36 22 - Information: 04 90 75 93 12.

24 communiqué Coustellet | Musée de la Lavande | This summer, learn all about the blue gold of Provence with fun family activities he Lincelé family’s love for lavender has been passed Something cool to do every day down from generation to generation since 1890, at the ➜ Monday: Environment day. The subjects will include, for instance, ChâteauT du Bois above Lagarde rainwater harvesting for distillation, and working with bees. The tiny d’Apt. For four generations, these pollen collectors are necessary for the pollination required for the producers and distillers of the blue reproduction of true lavender. Obviously, they also produce an excel- gold of Haute-Provence have been lent lavender honey! Living soils that are conducive to the culture of working with passion to extract this the blue gold will also be discussed. precious PDO essential oil. As lavender growers, they uphold the nobility ➜ Tuesday: Iced tea from 2 pm to 7 pm. of traditional production and of respect for the environment. Passing ➜ Wednesday: Lavender bag workshop for children from 2 pm to 4 on their skills is a central point in pm. They will be using fabrics and ribbons and will leave with a bag their everyday life to the point where that smells lovely! they opened the Musée de la Lavande in Coustellet in 1991 to promote ➜Thursday: Specially for foodies, lavender infusion and lavender awareness of production techniques honey tasting from 4 pm to 6 pm. An excellent opportunity to learn and of the properties of the lavender from Haute-Provence. It includes a cultural knowledge and to raise your awareness of the necessity of about their soothing properties. museographical section containing a wealth of stills dating from the 16th preserving traditional skills. The lavandin around the museum will be in century to today and other educational elements (botanical information, bloom until mid-August, just in case you needed another reason to visit. ➜ Every day from 10 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6 pm (except 2 films on harvest and distilling methods, etc.). To complement their Saturdays): Introduction to traditional distillation methods and all educational approach, the Musée de la Lavande team have come up with their secrets using a 1900 still. And if you bring lavandin with you, a complete program of summer events (until 15th September), developed MUSÉE DE LA LAVANDE 276, route de Gordes in Coustellet – Tel.: 04 90 76 91 23 with a younger audience in mind; material to enhance your Provencal you will go home with essential oil made from it. Open every day from 1st February to 31st December from 9 am to 7 pm. Free entry for under 15s. ➜ Every day, there is a drawing competition for children and a On Fridays, buy an entrance ticket, get one free. Audio-guided tours in 10 languages. THE photo competition for adults. + Also 30% off of all ecological, economy size formats! Guided tours every day at 1 pm and 5 pm. communiqué Luberon Alpilles Aix region | Project management - Seasonal rentals | Provence PA, your key contact

orth Americans, Britons, abroad or lives far from Provence, so I represent my clients for the Germans, Scandinavians management, follow-up and coordination of their projects project and, of course French clients management, and it’s important for all concerned that I be present too, all of Provence PA’s as early as possible in the process, at the very beginning, for Nclientele have one thing in common instance, helping find the piece of land, dealing with the administrative – they fell in love at some point aspects of planning permission, the client’s financial package and with the Luberon, the Alpilles, the tax planning, the laws in force, insurance, and so on. For every Aix region, or the Salon region. project, I find, get quotes from, and ensure the coordination of, the “Every one of them chose one way or various businesses, architects, and craftsmen (construction work, another, to associate their property public works, interior decoration, landscaping …) involved.” assets with our Provence,” explains Florence has a network of partners, all of whom are known and Florence Becker, the founder of trusted by Provence PA and Provence PA is personally accountable Provence PA. Establishing these for the quality of their work. “I do not replace my client, I direct my assets (purchase of a piece of land, client towards, and put him in touch with, the professional who a primary residence, a secondary can provide the best solution for the construction of the property or residence, investment in real estate for its day-to-day management.” continues Florence and underlines for tax purposes), building new her role as a consultant who matches the right service provider to property, renovating it, converting the right client, her concept of customer service and of work well it, decorating it, making it over, done, and that she “doesn’t receive a cent of commission from her making it profitable (seasonal rental), partners”. The same transparency and efficiency are applied to means making important decisions the season rental of properties. Florence takes charge of the and making the right choice is often whole package (promotion of the property to rent, follow-up of a difficult thing to do. “Though their bookings, rental contracts, preparation for the schedule of motivations may vary, it’s my job to condition, incident management) and provides support for the be there for each of them according tenants during their stay; tenants who, one day, might also to their needs, for the fulfilment and become proud homeowners in a region they have come to love. the success of their project, in line with their objectives.” Florence is PROVENCE PA - OPPÈDE Tel.: +33(06)681 041 444 their key contact for support and [email protected] - www.provencepa.com guidance, and is their trusted advisor. “90% of my clientele comes from Crédit photos Provence PA THE + English spoken - Your eyes and ears on site

25 Ventabren Aix-en-Provence Eguilles

Salon de Provence

Berre l’Etang Saint-Chamas

26 communiqué Salon | Festival International de Musique de Chambre de Provence | 25 years of making beautiful music together …

Created in 1993, y first is a pianist, my second is a clarinetist, the Festival my third is a flute player, International de my whole is a trio of Mvirtuoso friends that were at the Musique de origin of a festival entirely dedicated Chambre de to chamber music; I am, I am … Eric Le Sage, Paul Meyer and Provence brings Emmanuel Pahud! Their artistic col- several promi- laboration began with a noble project in 1992, fund-raising for nent soloists to the chapel in Vernègues that was in dire need of restoration. It turned the historical © Nicolas Tavernier out to be a roaring success. The © Nicolas Tavernier center of Salon public, the organizers and their de Provence guests, even musicians that were seriously in the world without the the world causes scenes of hysteria used to playing on some of the stress of the demanding rhythm of wherever he goes… particularly every summer. finest stages in the world, all wanted a tour before going on stage to an in Japan. This year’s more. The following year, the Renais- audience that is quickly won over. From the Eglise Saint-Michel to the sance courtyard in the Château de “Entry is free for people under 20 Abbaye de Sainte-Croix, taking in Festival runs l’Empéri seemed to be the obvious and tickets are reduced for under the Theatre Armand (for the first from 31st July choice for the trio, charmed as they 40s so the event is accessible to all. time) and, understandably, the were by the incredible acoustics People come here to listen to Château de l’Empéri, this 25th to 8th August. and beauty of the place, a blend of something they won’t hear anywhere edition looks more promising than ancient visible stonework and small, else,” says the trio as one voice. ever. Now all you have to do is surf intimate gardens. As living legends, they are a perfect the Internet to find out the program Captivated by the friendly atmosphere initiation to chamber music. Eric, and to make your bookings. of the festival and its Provençal the Festival’s artistic director, and Ticket office surroundings, the musicians enjoy © Nicolas Tavernier Pascal are considered models of Théâtre Armand in Salon. playing together in the height of their art everywhere and Emmanuel, Tel.: 04 90 56 00 82 summer. They rehearse the most 1st flute in the 1st philharmonic in https://festival-salon.fr

Rue de l’Horloge in Salon de Provence, where historical heritage and local stores combine, is located at the foot of the Château L’Empéri.

27 Provence | Gardens | StepStep intointo thethe lightlight ……

They may be dreamlike, historical, or philosophical worlds, gardens have inspired the great minds of this world when it wasn’t the great minds that created them; among those is the most celebrated of them all, André Le Nôtre, whose 400th birthday was celebrated in 2013. An excellent outing as spring turns to summer, in the sunshine …

Jardin de la bastide de Romégas in Aix-en-Pro- bird pool and the bird trap. This is an unusual place for catching birds. Nets became the property of the Forbin family, more specifically Louis, Lieutenant vence were stretched over bushes and when the birds came to drink, children General of the Armies of the Sun King. The dynasty would, in turn, give up would clap their hands to make them fly away and be caught in the trap. this listed monument, sold by the Marquis de Forbin to the father of In the distance you can see Montagne Sainte-Victoire. Seen from the The place remains cool even during the warm summer months. Nowadays, Ghislaine Pillivuyt who has been taking care of it since 2007 with her bastide at Romégas (meaning “the place planted with brambles”), the it is a place to read or to meditate in silence. A halt before returning to the husband, Bertrand. “We breathed new life into the Chateau; the number of view is unique. Located in the heart of the Aix region, not far from bastide and its majestic greenery (yews, lime, pine, and oak trees) and a visitors has more than doubled. However, we didn’t apply for the garden to Puyricard, the estate was established in 1640 is passed down from mother last glance at Sainte-Victoire. be listed among the “Notable Gardens of France because we couldn’t cope to daughter. “The owner’s name changes but it stays in the family,” as with that many visitors” says the host almost apologetically. Marie-Ange Rater-Carbonel tells us. Among her ancestors is François- Address: Auguste Mignet, the famous writer and academic, and whose father 3992, chemin de Saint-Donat – 13100 Aix-en-Provence Jardin de La Barben is open for the Rendez-vous aux Jardins (with a bought the bastide from the Parliament of Aix-en-Provence. The place is a Tel.: 04 42 23 17 53 - [email protected] conference by Mireille Nys, a specialist in the History of Art), an opportunity historic monument, with an immense threshing yard, a formal boxwood Open from 1st May to 30th October from 10 am to noon to peacefully stroll around the grounds. Firstly, there is an alley of majestic parterre and a bird trap area typical for the period. and from 5 pm to 7 pm plane trees, planted in 1802, the starting point that leads to a rectangular Entry: 4 € per person (free for children under 10 years of age). basin which, in turn, leads to seven beds of boxwood dotted with flowers. There have always been so many reasons to want to visit, from the 18th In the center is the Emperor’s young sister’s famous pool and just a stone’s century to the present day. It is an exceptional bastide with a four-slope throw from there is another rarity, a giant redwood brought back from roof, oleanders, and an abutting farm near the Touloubre River. It only America during the war of independence … takes a short stroll in the garden to appreciate the sheer happiness of the place, a feeling of peacefulness on all three of its levels. The first level, in The walk continues past greenhouses and orangeries then leads to the front of the bastide, has boxwood alleys and a pool surrounded by Aleppo graceful statue of a goddess in the middle of a grassy terrace before ending pines, around that again, a maze of laurestine covered with tiny bright at a fountain. A tour that is quite breathtaking particularly because of the flowers. A washhouse can be seen nearby, close to the aviary that leads us vivid colors (red and pink) everywhere! “We have kept with the garden’s to the second level. This is where you find a 17th century chapel in front of tradition and ordered 6000 begonias and sage plants! There are geraniums an old pool that was converted to a swimming pool. It was probably too,” continues Ghislaine Pillivuyt as she contemplates the box maze originally a noria that fed the donkey or ass stable that is a few years older. whose maintenance, along with the purchase of flowers, costs a fortune. Several gardeners work on it all year round. Further down again, we head towards a large field lined with clusters of olive trees, medlar trees, date plums, jujube trees and all sorts of plants The garden at Château de La Barben “The Castle is open all year round except in mid-winter. You can visit with a found on hillsides (various colors of rockroses) … “The plants have to be The ghost of Pauline Borghese lingers over the round basin, the focal point guide in costume, explore the underground with a knight, participate in resistant because in 2011 the temperature dropped to -15°C!” remarks of this airy garden flanked on one side by the Castle access ramp and on the puzzles and treasure hunts (an Easter egg hunt was held recently) and so on. Marie-Ange, who is very involved in the planting, pruning and overall other by the Touloubre River. In the early 19th century, Napoléon On 29th and 30th June, we are going to hold the first historical celebration of maintenance (thought she does get help from professionals in high season) Bonaparte’s sister would bathe here, entirely naked, hidden only by sheets the Cascavéous Uprising,” concludes Ghislaine who likes to maintain the of this 3-hectare garden. Crossing the field where, in days of yore, wheat, held up by her servants … A historical tale among many for this 10 000 m2 memory and the legends of the Château de La Barben. Yet another slice of barley, almonds, olives and vines grew … we stop in front of the garden that was apparently designed by André Le Nôtre, a specialist in history to discover … “boulingrin”, an area of sand where games of boules are played that, in formal French gardens, during the reign of Louis XIV. turn, leads to the fountain, the starting point for the last level. Address: Originally belonging to the monks in Abbaye de Saint-Victor in Marseille, Route du Château - 13330 La Barben The path across the garden becomes narrower, darker, until we reach the the Château de La Barben was built in the Middle Ages (908). In 1472, it Tel: 04 90 55 25 41 - www.chateaudelabarben.fr

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Saint-Chamas | Discovery | An appealing waterside village

Besides being a lakeside town with nearly 10 km of coast and 4 ports (2 harbors and 2 marinas) Saint-Chamas also has rivers running through it as well as canals that irrigate the fields, washhouses, and marshlands. The first inhabitants, the Romans, left the Pont Flavien, a listed monument, as a tribute to the good life and local authenticity that delight locals and visitors alike.

aint-Chamas sits in a landscape that is as unusual as it is exceptional, at the edge of one of the Saint-Chamas has retained its authenticity, protecting it, caring for it, promoting it and, finally, passing it biggest lakes in Europe, a site that has always been an ideal habitat. It has been occupied since the on from generation to generation. Paleolithic Age, as proved by excavations in the Collet du Verdon rock-shelter, used during the Iron S A whole way of life has developed around this heritage resulting in an enduring village spirit illustrated Age by the Ligurians who built an oppidum there and then, later by the Celts. by the local shops, the fishing activities, the tightly woven social fabric, the many cultural and festive The Pont Flavien (1st century BC) is the village emblem and was built so that the road from Arles to events, and the respect of traditions. Marseille could cross the Touloubre River. It was also around that time that the port of Saint-Chamas started to expand into fishing, transportation of goods and trade. It is a way of life cherished by the locals, a way of life that has kept up with modernity and adapted to needs. The village puts its young people first, striving to meet their needs, supporting them and The Etang de Berre, the Touloubre River, where many mills were in operation, and the canals (de encouraging their education; from the community center for the very young, to after school activities at Craponne and de la Poudrerie) have shaped the look of, and the life in, Saint-Chamas over the centuries. nursery school age (from 7.30 am to 6.30 pm), and the creation of a play center for vacation time, Even today, this environment influences daily life. vacations for teens, sports training, and so on. All services for the public focus on the family.

It is in this setting that history, tradition, and modernity all blend together and bestow a quite unique As for infrastructure, the schools are constantly being renovated, redecorated or built for the comfort and character upon Saint-Chamas. In fact, the village has been able to keep its genuine character as it evolved wellbeing of both the children and teachers. Since 2012, every school has had its own canteen and nearly and adapted to the needs of its population. 600 meals are served every day. The village also has two secondary schools (one of which is vocational), a very rare thing in a town of this size. Today the town still has four ports. The one called Pertuis, in the heart of the town, and the one called Sagnas, are for fishing and their ten or so professional fishermen go after eels, bream and bass in the Leisure equipment for children and adults has been constantly on the up-and-up to offer better waters of the Etang. conditions for sport or leisure. Molleton stadium, the dojo and dance room, the boules playing ground, the nautical base, the tennis courts and the sports fields on the sporting side and on the cultural side, an The Notre-Dame and de Beaurivage marinas have 350 places for boaters. From the simple boat to the outdoor theater, a music school were created with the aim of “living well in Saint-Chamas. Not only that catamaran, both marinas are fully booked and are a reminder that water and the nearby sea are essential but there are 93 clubs and associations covering a whole range of recreational, sports, cultural, patriotic, to the professional and leisure activities that are so important to the village. and charitable activities for young and old alike.

A stroll through the village will reveal some very real treasures. From the Pont Flavien to the fortress gate At 50 kilometers from Marseille, 15 from Salon de Provence, and 15 from Fos sur Mer, you cannot miss the in the castrum, via the Eglise Saint-Léger, the Chapelle Notre-Dame, the Lavoir des Contagieux, the Saint- charm and the resources of Saint-Chamas whether you live there all the year round or spend time at one Léger viaduct as well as the Pont de l’Horloge, the listed monuments and vestiges of the past are of the fifteen or so bed & breakfast establishments, or whether you are just there for a walk in the village numerous. And what about the homes dug out of the Baou cliff that make the village one of the rare streets, along the shore or for a stroll in the countryside troglodyte dwellings in France?

FURTHER INFORMATION: Office de Tourisme Tel. 04 90 50 90 54

What to see … What to visit … What to do … Who to contact … Nearby … Less than an hour away … - Panoramic photo of the - Notre Dame marina - Musée Paul Lafran Office de Tourisme - Miramas-le-Vieux: 4 km - Salon: 22 mins Pont de l’Horloge - Cave dwellings - Parish church Tel.: 04 90 50 90 54 - : 8 km - Sénas: 31 mins - Enjoy Pertuis fishing har- - Pont Flavien - Parc de la Poudrerie - Website: www.tourisme- - Berre L‘Etang: 16 km - Cavaillon: 38 mins bor saintchamas.fr - La Barben: 18 km - Aix-en-Provence: 42 mins - Picnic in the Petite - : 22 km - Arles: 47 mins Camargue - Ventabren: 29 km - Avignon: 59 mins

30 communiqué Mallemort | Festivities | A festivity-studded summer

From 23rd June endredi On Sort!, the Mal- will then be expected back again the eccentric local Ska group Les in a warm and unpretentious lemort Sens Dessus Dessous on 1st July, to attend shows by Boucan Clan (11th), followed by atmosphere supplied by Nana to 15th August, Festival, concert evenings, over 200 artists from 3 pm to Run & Hit (18th), and Bal Décalé and Lucas and their barrel Mallemort village fête, evening markets, midnight. On the same day at 6.30 (25th). Above all, don’t miss the organ as well as the folk Vfireworks, a comprehensive program pm, the Polyphonies du monde open-air projection of the opera group Li Galoi Prouvencau. will be the scene sets the pace for Mallemort. will take place in Place Saint- Pinocchio (20th), part of the Festival At nightfall, there will be a of numerous The festivities in Mallemort start in Michel. To continue this now essential d’Art Lyrique in Aix-en-Provence! barbecue at your disposal so JUNE with the Feast of Saint event, locals and holidaymakers In AUGUST, there will be concerts you can grill meat or fish or, festive activities John (from 23rd to 26th) where are expected in JULY for another every Tuesday evening, again as if you prefer, you can buy promising young and old alike can have fun edition of de “Vendredi On Sort!” part of the evening markets, with your meal there. at the fair, at card tournaments, with the groups Hygiaphone (7th), Pattes DEF (1st), Louise and the a summer fishing competitions and 3 musical and NewZik (14th) providing the Po’Boys (8th), followed by Gitano And don’t miss the sporting highlight this summer - the Tour de evenings. On 30th June, there will entertainment for the evening of Family (15th), all preceded by sprinkled with France will go through Mallemort on 21st July! 3 events have been be more than 50 singers from La the firework display that will be set street entertainment. You can also organized for the occasion – on land and in the air (with Génération many high Clé des Chants de la off on the Digue de la Durance. enjoy a supplementary concert Pêche and the Fédération de pêche des Bouches-du-Rhône). The first points. accompanied by the organist François This will be preceded by a torchlit evening with the group Flash Back Gourd in the Eglise St Michel to procession to the music of the “La (12th). is a piece of LandArt work: a giant fish measuring 42 m by 10 m will open the Mallemort Sens Dessus Brigade” brass band and followed Next on the agenda is the well- be created by the artist Charles Cermolacce and will be placed in the Dessous Festival. Festival-goers by a dance in the center of the vil- known Fête des Moissons, on bed of the Durance river (with food-contact paint, ecological and lage. 19th August, organized by the Sian biodegradable), a video will be made of and during the installation of As the previous editions were a d'Aqui association with arts and the work. Fishermen from the Pescadous association and their roaring success, evening markets crafts and traditional trades taking acolytes will also be busy around the Durance, dressed in purple T- will be back on Tuesday evenings pride of place: reaping, threshing shirts and will participate in the release of rainbow trout. Finally, a (from 11/07 to 15/08). These will by hand and machine, bread-making transient fishing village will be set up along the Digue de la Durance, be lively evenings where local in a wood-smoke oven … not to proposing game for the public, with a mascot to entertain and liven tradesmen and craftsmen will have mention the iron-worker’s, clog- up the village. Goodies, T-shirts and caps will be handed out. a thousand and one marvels for all maker’s, knife-sharpener’s and On 25th August, we are hoping for a large turn out to support the budgets and all tastes on show washerwoman’s know-how! and, when night falls, there will be Recreational activities, farm animals cyclists participating with the 41st edition of the 4 jours des As race concerts to ensure a great atmosphere. and a local produce market will organized by the Association des As en Provence, who are honoring These get off to a flying start with delight fans of the region, bathed us with the longest stage in the race with a distance of 153.1 km.

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