Caveat Lector

In the text that follows, I have tried to give some background information about the cities of Córdoba, Granada and Sevilla, as well as about Andalucía in general. I have also attempted to provide practical information about places to visit, things to see, and places to eat, drink and relax. This information is correct to the best of my knowledge, but establishments (especially bars and restaurants) can change and even close down altogether. Likewise, bus timetables and routes change, so please regard travel information as a rough guide only. If making a particular journey is critical to your making a connection or boarding a flight, please double check! Also, as you would expect, my recommendations are personal. I am more interested in galleries and churches than in funfairs and climbing walls. My taste in bars tends more towards the traditional décor of an old-fashioned hostelry than the gleaming chrome of a high-end cocktail bar. When it comes to food, I look for a place that serves Spanish cuisine (even haute cuisine) rather than a ‘concept’ place which claims to serve Ibero-Japanese-Peruvian fusion dishes. Having said that, one or two of those sorts of places might creep in here and there. Peruvian food is, after all, a fusion cuisine in which the Iberian and Japanese influences loom large. For each of my suggestions and recommendations, I have tried to explain why I am recommending it. I hope this will make it easier for you to decide to either add it to your itinerary, or to give it a miss! Moreover, the Granada section is comparatively short — more a list of suggestions without much detail. This is partly because I know it as a city less well than Sevilla, but also because it is so dominated by the Alhambra. Making the most of a visit to the Alhambra, plus the journey there and back, is four hours — considerably more if you include refreshment and/or lunch stops. Finally, this text has neither been proofread nor edited, so the very many mistakes come with my apologies. ¡Buen viaje! You will find the contents page at the back of this book

1 Checklist: Checklist Checklist ADVANCED BOOKING ADVISED: Travel (trains, intercity buses) Alhambra visit Sevilla Cathedral Visit (includes church of San Salvador see p. 125) www.catedraldesevilla.es/cultural-visit/ Sevilla Real Alcázar realalcazarsevilla.sacatuentrada.es/en WHEN YOU ARRIVE Sevilla’s Feria de Abril ends on Saturday 11 May. This is your last (and only) chance to experience one of the most authentically andaluz spectacles, and it is not to be missed. This is something that very few visitors to Sevilla get to see. See p. 122 A Walking Tour can be a very good way to find your bearings, and get to know the compact heart of the oldest part of the city. Consider doing this on your first morning, especially in Sevilla. See p. 111 SMARTPHONE LINKS

Moovit This is the best smartphone app for journey planning, in my experience, is moovit (www.company.moovit.com/) available for iOS, Android and Web. It is more reliable that Google Maps, with more cities covered, and better up-to- date information. One word of caution, though — it tends to underestimate the time that it will take you to walk to the nearest suggested transport stop, so if you search at 1200 noon for a journey plan, it may well direct you to a stop where a bus is due at 1202, and yet which is 3 minutes’ walk!

2 Checklist: Smartphone Links

Companion Online Google Map Every restaurant, hotel, bar, bus-stop and place of interest that I mention in this guide (broadly speaking all locations shown in bold type) has been plotted on three Google Maps. Here is how to find them: 1. Download (if necessary) and open the Google Maps app on your iOS or Android smartphone. 2. Log in to a new account. 3. Account name: malagamap2018 4. Password: malaga2018 5. From the menu, select Your Places, then MAPS, and select Sevilla | Córdoba | Granada as appropriate 6. If you pay significant roaming charges and/or have little or no data allowance, select ‘Offline maps’ from the menu to download the map while you are on WiFi. 7. The maps are organised in layers (eating and drinking, attractions, barrios, transport, shopping, etc.). Click ‘VIEW MAP LEGEND’ and select the layers you want to view. I am sorry that Google Maps are somewhat hopeless — low contrast and very difficult to follow. But, alas, Google Maps are the only show in town as far as sharing maps is concerned. Sorry.

Web Links To access the web links and maps for this guide:

MAIN ANDALUCÍA PAGE bit.ly/GEandalucia

SEVILLA PAGE bit.ly/GEsevilla

3 Checklist: Smartphone Links

CÓRDOBA PAGE bit.ly/GEcordoba

GRANADA PAGE bit.ly/Gegranada Google Maps Sevilla: bit.ly/EGMsevilla Córdoba: bit.ly/EGMcordoba Granada: bit.ly/EGMgranada

Language and Spelling This is not a guide to the Spanish language, but the following notes contain a number of Spanish words and phrases, especially relating to food and drink. Spain has one of the lowest levels of English proficiency in the European Union (11.7%), lagging just behind the Czech Republic and Bulgaria. By way of comparison, a quarter of the population of France speak English, as do a third of Greeks and over half of all Swedes. Many Spaniards working in the hospitality industry will speak English, and around 20% of those under 35 speak English, but on the whole, and outside the larger hotels and well-worn tourist spots, few españoles you meet are likely to speak English. A little knowledge of Spanish (also called castellano, or ‘Castilian’) will be helpful when it comes to finding your way around (signs), choosing what to eat and drink (menus), making the most of bars and restaurants, and simply being polite and friendly. But if languages aren’t your thing, don’t worry too much. Spanish is not Hungarian and is one of the easiest foreign languages for English speakers to master. Many words are similar to English, and if you know any French, Italian or Latin, then Spanish should be a piece of cake (or ‘eaten bread’ as they say in Spain). Another reason not to fear a lack of linguistic ability is that Spaniards are (for the most part) polite, hospitable and friendly. Certainly, their manner is direct and no-nonsense, and words like ‘please’, ‘thank you’, and ‘sorry’ are not used

4 Language and Spelling: Language and Spelling as frequently as in the UK, but this is not out of rudeness. They are likely to be just as apologetic for their lack of ability in English as you will be about your inability to speak Spanish. More often than not, they will be happy to take time to communicate in ‘Spanglish’, especially when it comes to transactions in hotels, bars, buses, and the like (and in tourist hot-spots, they will speak English well). Indeed, if you are hoping to practise your Spanish, you may find that people reply to you in English. This is not because they have judged your language skills and found them wanting. It is more likely to be because they want to practise their English and are trying to be helpful and hospitable. Most Spaniards are fiercely proud of their home town, their culture and their cuisine. They will do whatever they can to ensure that you enjoy it too. PLACES With the exception of Spain (España) itself, the place names in this book are written with Spanish spellings. In most cases, these are no different to English spellings, but a few British archaisms remain. In English it is still common to refer to the river Tajo by its Latin name, ‘Tagus’, and the city of Córdoba is often called ‘Cordova’ by older people. The reason for employing the local spelling is that it helps with recognition (e.g. reading signs), and pronunciation. The English pronunciation of ‘Cordova’ is ‘kor-do-vah’, whereas in Spanish the stress is on the first syllable (indicated by the accent over the ‘o’) and so it is ‘ ko R -do-bah’. It’s not a huge difference, but a useful one to be aware of if you are listening attentively for an announcement on a bus or train. The same goes for the difference between the English name ‘Sevilla’ and the castellano name Sevilla. The former is pronounced ‘seh-vill’ (or ‘suh-vill’), whereas the latter is ‘seh-bee-yah’ — quite a difference when heard by a native speaker (imagine trying to buy a ticket to ‘Wipers’ at the Gare du Nord!). This is particularly the case in the south of Spain, where people tend to swallow the ends of words and some consonants seem to disappear entirely. The first syllable is all you may hear. For this reason, for all the delights of Andalucía, it is perhaps not the best region of Spain in which to learn Spanish as a beginner. TRANSLITERATION I have transliterated those Spanish words which you may need to pronounce, and have done so in a rather basic (and probably somewhat inconsistent) way. I hope the pronunciations are fairly obviously phonetic (although I have not

5 Language and Spelling: Transliteration used IPA). I have used a small capital H to express the velar fricative (the ch of the Scots loch — IPA /x/ or sometimes /ɣ/), and the small capitals TH to correspond to the th in ‘thin’ (in contradistinction to the th in ‘this’). I have also used R and RR as a reminder that although the Spanish ‘r’ is always a flap/tap (slightly ‘rolled’), in certain positions (e.g. in the initial position and before certain vowels and diphthongs) and when doubled, it is stressed with a quite exaggerated rolling. In the pronunciation examples underlining is used to indicate stress (e.g. Córdoba = ko R -do-bah, café = kah-feh). PRONUNCIATION The beauty of Spanish is that its pronunciation is extremely regular and perfectly phonetic, despite regional variations in the way some consonants are pronounced. Consonants are in most cases consistently pronounced, although a handful depend upon the vowel following. Vowels are highly regular and diphthongs are in reality only pseudo-diphthongs. That is, diphthongs are treated as sequential vowels regarding pronunciation, but usually as single vowel regarding stress. The precise pronunciation depends upon the pairing of weak/strong vowels, but if you pronounce diphthongs quickly as two regular vowels then you will not go far wrong. Unlike stress-timed languages like English and German, Spanish is a syllable- timed language like French and Italian in which stress is regular, except only more so! This is why listening to a Spaniard speaking ten to the dozen can feel like being under machine gun fire — rat-a-tat, rat-a-tat, rat-a-tat… Take, for example the sentence: How do you say ‘apples’ in English? / ¿Cómo se dice «manzanas» en inglés? In English, you might hear (phonetically): howja say appalzin inglish In Spanish, every syllable is the same length (though not the same stress): ko-moh say dee-THeh man-THan-nass en een-gles

6 Language and Spelling: Pronunciation

Distincíon, Seseo, Ceceo One of the most noticeable differences between the castellano spoken in various regions (and indeed countries and continents) concerns the pronunciation of ‘coronal fricatives’ — s/sh/th/zh -type sounds. Spanish does not have a ‘Received Pronunciation’ in the way that (British) English does. The Spanish Royal Academy tries to police the written language, but is more concerned with vocabulary and grammar than with pronunciation. In recent years it has fought a losing battle against ‘anglicismos’ — English terms like ‘gin-tonic’ (preferring ginebra y tónica) and ‘smoking’ (a quasi-gerund used as a noun to describe a dinner jacket — the Academy prefers ‘esmoquin’). Regional differences in English are rarely about consonants. The Irish English tendency to pronounce ‘th’ and ‘t’ identically is a rare exception, as are the Cockney proclivity to use glottal stops and use a ‘w’ sound for ‘r’. In the main, differences are found in the pronunciation of vowels and diphthongs — a southerner saying the word ‘book’ sounds the same as a northerner saying ‘buck’, for example. In Spanish, the variation is found in the consonants — principally s, c and z. In most spoken Spanish, especially that of Valladolid and Salamanca (often reckoned to be the most elegant), s is pronounced like the s in ‘see’, whereas z and c (before i or e), are pronounced like the ‘th’ in ‘thin’. This is known as distincíon. In much of South America, and Andalucía one hears seseo — pronouncing s, c (before i and e) and z in much the same way: like the s in ‘see’. Thus, in Valladolid the word cena (dinner) is pronounced ‘ TH ey -na’, but in Sevilla it is more likely to sound like ‘say-na. Far rarer is ceceo — the pronunciation of s, c (before i and e) and z in the same way, but like the th in ‘thin’. It is found only rarely. The story that the ‘lisp’ entered Spanish in deference to a king who happened to have a speech impediment is just an urban legend. The only monarch known to have lisped was Pedro de Castilla, but he reigned in the 14th century and the ‘th’ sound developed in the 16th. The next king to have had a speech impediment, Carlos II (‘The Bewitched’), reigned in the 17th century, and was so inbred that he could barely speak (the poor man was also lame, epileptic and afflicted by dementia in his teens). The chief reason to dismiss the ‘Lisping

7 Language and Spelling: Pronunciation

Monarch’ hypothesis, however, is that sycophantic courtiers would presumably have lisped every sibilant — not just c and z, but s too. In other words, the whole of Spain would have been ceceo, not a few isolated pockets in the South. In providing pronunciation keys in this text, I do so according to distincíon — using ‘s’ and ‘th’ — because this is usually regarded as ‘standard’ peninsular Spanish (castellano). For reference, however, you are likely to encounter seseo in Sevilla and Córdoba, and ceceo in Granada.

Accents Diacritics (accents) are of two kinds. The tilde which looks like an acute accent (´) and the diéresis which looks like an umlaut and only occurs above u (ü). There is also what looks like a third kind of accent — what in English is called a tilde but is known as a virgulilla in Spanish: ñ. This is a distinct letter of the Spanish alphabet, pronounced /ny/ or /ɲ/. To take the diéresis (ü) first. The letter u is pronounced as ‘oo’ before a consonant (museo = moo-say-o) and as ‘w’ before a vowel (suelo [floor] = sway- loh). When it occurs in the following combinations, its function is to modify the pronunciation of the preceding consonant and it is silent: gui, gue, qu (guitarra = gee- ta RR -ah, guerra = geh-RRah, queso = kay-soh). With the diéresis, it is pronounced as ‘w’, though it only occurs after g — güi, güe (pingüino = pin- gween-oh, vergüenza = baiR-gwen-THah). It occurs very rarely. The tilde (´) is even more straightforward and regular. It only occurs over vowels. In writing it is used to indicate interrogative and (some) demonstrative pronouns and can thus be ignored unless you need to write accurately. Its main use is to indicate where the stress falls. As an inflected language, stress is crucial. For example, hablo (hab-loh) means ‘I speak’ (present tense), whereas habló (hab-loh) means ‘he/she/it spoke’ (past tense). The regular stress pattern is fairly straightforward. If a word of more than one syllable ends in a vowel, -s, or -n, then the stress falls on the penultimate syllable: banco ban-koh dentista den-tees-tah viven bee-ben

8 Language and Spelling: Pronunciation

libros lee-bRos

When a word ends in a consonant other than -s or -n, then the stress falls on the final syllable:

azul aTH-ool matador mah-tah- do R andaluz ann-da- loo TH estoy ess-toy

When a vowel has an accent, then it is stressed: habló hab-loh he spoke hablo hab-loh I speak capó ka-po car bonnet capo ka-po mafia boss librería lee-bReh-Ree-ah bookshop farmacia faR- ma TH -ya pharmacy

SIMPLIFIED PRONUNCIATION KEY Note that CH, LL and Ñ are counted below as distinct letters of the alphabet, although the Spanish Royal Academy officially removed CH and LL from the alphabet in 2010.

Letter IPA Pronunciation of the letter (English approximation)

A a a Midway between the a in father and the a in cat

b Like b in bad

B b Between vowels, the lips should not be fully closed, β similar to the v in value

9 Language and Spelling: Simplified Pronunciation Key

Before the vowels e and i, like th in thin (but in Andalucía θ/s, you will also hear it pronounced like the c in centre. C c k Before a, o, and u, and at the end of words, like c in coffee

Ch ch tʃ Like ch in church

Very similar to the d in day. Between vowels and at the D d d, ð end of a word, somewhat similar to the th in the

E e e Midway between the e in ten and the ay in say

F f f Like f in four

g, ɰ Like g in get G g x Before the vowels e and i, like a Spanish j (v.i.)

H h Silent, except in loanwords

Like e in he. Before other vowels, it is like the y in you I i i (when unaccented)

Like the ch in loch, although can sometimes sound like J j x English h

Like the k in ask, and only in loanwords — Spanish K k k prefers c and qu

Similar to the English l in line, but shorter, somewhat L l l clipped

10 Language and Spelling: Simplified Pronunciation Key

Similar to the y in yawn or the ll in million — in some Ll ll ʎ/ ʝ accents closer to the s in pleasure

M m m Like m in more

N n n Like n in no

Ñ ñ ɲ Like the ni in onion and the ny in canyon

O o o Like o in God

P p p Like p in port

Like k in kin (for the qu sound of queen, Spanish prefers Q q k cu)

ɾ When soft, like the tt in the U.S. pronunciation of butter

R r When hard (initial position, or doubled) it is rolled as in r Scots English

Like s in six — sometimes slightly more aspirated, but S s s never to the extent of sh in sherry. N.B. Spaniards do not say ‘Ssshh!’ but “Ssssss!’

T t t Like to the t in ten, but dental not palatal

w before another vowel (especially after c) like w in twig. U u u Everywhere else like oo in pool, but shorter.

11 Language and Spelling: Simplified Pronunciation Key

V v b, β Identical to Spanish b in almost all cases

b, g, Used only in words of foreign origin (Spanish prefers u). W w β, w Pronunciation varies from word to word.

Like ks (English x) in extra. In some cases it may be X x ks pronounced like gs or s.

Like the vowel [i] when a word itself (y = as the English i ‘eye’) or at the end of a word (rey = as the English ‘ray’) Y y Between the y in yellow and the s in pleasure when in ʝ any other position (reyes = ray-yes, yeso = yes-oh)

Z z θ, s Like the th in thin (often like the s in sale in Andalucía)

Telling the Time Not the time, exactly, but the days of the week. If you spot a bar or restaurant you fancy trying later, or another day, it is helpful to be able to understand the opening times displayed. The vocabulary that you need to know is: • Lunes Monday • Martes Tuesday • Miercoles Wednesday • Jueves Thursday • Viernes Friday • Sábado(s) Saturday(s) • Domingo(s) Sunday(s) • Festivos Feast Days • Fin de Semana Weekend (usually means Friday and Saturday)

12 Language and Spelling: Simplified Pronunciation Key

• laborales Weekdays • mañana(s) Morning(s) • tarde(s) Afternoon(s)/Evening(s) • noche(s) Night(s)

13 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía! ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía! Welcome to Andalusia! If you close your eyes and think of the most typically ‘Spanish’ scene you can imagine, there is a strong likelihood that you will be thinking of something andaluz (Andalusian). Bullfighting, ruched polka-dot dresses, flamenco, tapas, gazpacho, olive oil, sherry, Christopher Columbus, oranges, the Costa del Sol, and the Alhambra — all of these things are more closely associated with Andalucía (English spelling: Andalusia) than with any other region of Spain. LOS REYES CATÓLICOS Purists would perhaps claim that ‘true’ Spain is Castilla — the meseta or central plateau in the middle of the Iberian Peninsula. The centre-point of the peninsula is Madrid — indeed this is why it was chosen to become the permanent seat of the thitherto itinerant Royal Court — and it is at the centre of castilla too. Old Castile (Castilla y León) extends north west of Madrid, New Castile (Castilla-La Mancha) to the south east. This harsh, somewhat arid heart of Spain, the land of Don Quixote, is not only the geographical centre of Spain, but also the centripetal political force that unified disparate Iberian kingdoms into a single nation. The person who did more than any other to bring this unification about was the late 15th century Queen of Castile, Isabel I. Her marriage to her second cousin, Fernando II of Aragon, became the basis for the political unification of Spain under their grandson, Carlos V. After a struggle to claim her right to the throne, she reorganised the system of government, brought the crime rate to the lowest it had been in years, and unburdened the kingdom of the enormous debt her half-brother (‘Enrique the Impotent’) had left behind. Her own reforms, and those she made with her husband, had an influence that extended well beyond the borders of their united kingdoms. Her political cunning was in evidence early on. She and Fernando required a Papal dispensation to marry on account of their consanguinity, but the anti- Spanish Pope Paul II refused to grant one. Assisted by the Archbishop of Toledo, Isabel had a bull of dispensation forged. Fernando, as a descendent of Juan I of Castile, had a claim to the throne of Castile, but in making him a spouse rather than a rival, Isabel not only strengthened her own claim to the

14 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Los Reyes Católicos crown, but began the long process of uniting the peninsula. They both wore crowns, but Isabel wore the trousers. Above all, Isabel and Fernando are known for completing the reconquista, and for supporting and financing Christopher Columbus's 1492 voyage that led to the opening up of the New World and to the establishment of Spain as the first global power which dominated Europe and much of the world for more than a century. Isabel, granted together with her husband the title ‘the Catholic’ by Pope Alexander VI, was recognized as a Servant of God by the Catholic Church in 1974. The final battleground of the reconquista, and the launch site of Columbus’s three voyages, was Andalucía. Isabel might have been born in Castilla, married in Castilla, ruled over Castilla and died in Castilla, but her apotheosis was in Andalucía. Fittingly, Isabel and Fernando, ‘Los Reyes Católicos’ (‘the Catholic Kings’) are buried not in the gloomy Pantheon of El Escorial, but in the Royal Chapel they constructed in Granada. The final resting place of Isabel and Fernando — Andalucía — is therefore the birthplace of modern Spain. FOOD AND DRINK As the late lamented chef-turned-culinary-globetrotter Anthony Bourdain put it, ‘If you’re looking for the best food in the western world, forget France. Come to Spain.’ The Basque Country in northern Spain has more Michelin stars per capita than any other region of the world and Cataluña’s ElBulli is still regarded by adoring foodies as the world’s best restaurant, even though it closed a decade ago, at the height of its fame. But Bourdain was talking not so much of the gels and foams of haute cuisine but of the everyday food of Spain — parchment-thin slices of jamón, salads drizzled with grass-green olive oil, and fish and seafood dishes that seem to border upon alchemy. The British restaurant critic Giles Coren maintains that he ate the best meal of his life not at The Ivy or Noma, but at an ordinary bar-cum-restaurant in Pedraza, a dusty Spanish town of fewer than 440 people. The bread and potatoes stodge of northern Europe does not suit the climate of Spain (yet Spaniards love meaty stews) and unlike in the French classical tradition, there is little reliance upon rich sauces. Apart from a green corner of Galicia in the north west, all of Spain lies below the so-called ‘Butter Equator’ (butter to the north, olive oil to the south). In Spain, the quality and freshness

15 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Food and Drink of the ingredients takes centre stage. A simple salad of tomatoes, mottled green and red, is a revelation — nothing more than oil and coarse salt and pepper is necessary because the tomatoes themselves are so intensely flavoured. The bar snack staple of huevos rotos (‘broken eggs’) — fried chunks of potato with slivers of jamón topped with a still slightly runny egg — takes ham, egg and chips to a new level of gastronomy. Just as appealing as the quality of food is the manner of its eating. Service à la russe (starter, main course, and dessert served sequentially) is the norm at lunchtime and in the more expensive restaurants, but in the evening, the pathologically sociable Spanish prefer to share a selection of dishes (called raciones) — some fried peppers, a dish of anchovies, a platter of prawns or squid or lamb cutlets, maybe a salad, and perhaps some slices of barnyardy sheep’s cheese. As well as these heartier raciones (‘portions’), are tapas. A tapa is a small serving of food to accompany a drink, because you will rarely see a Spaniard drinking without eating. It might be very modest and handed over for free when you order a drink — a couple of escabeche mussels, a triangular slice of slightly crystalline manchego cheese, a saucer of fat, green olives or just a handful of potato crisps. A small dish of crisps, by the way, is not quite as dull as it sounds. These crisps are not Walkers (or Lay’s, as Walkers is known outside the UK). They will most probably fried that day, in local olive oil from Jaén, at a local freiduría and delivered to the bar in huge paper sacks. While we are on the topic of olive oil, it is worth saying something about Spain and olives. Spain is the biggest producer of olive oil in the whole world. Spain produces on average about 44% of the world’s supply of olive oil each year, twice as much as Italy and four times as much as Greece. About 70% of all Spanish olive oil comes from Jaén and this small province actually produces more aceite de oliva than the entire country of Italy combined. Spain is the second biggest consumer of olive oil worldwide. Although Spain makes more olive oil than anyone else, Greece actually consumes more annually. On average, Spanish annual consumption of olive oil is about 2.5 gallons per person, i.e. about 10 litres of olive oil per person. The Phoenicians are said to have introduced the olive tree to Spain in 1050 B.C. However, it was the Romans that began the spread of olive groves throughout Spain and the Moors that introduced more advanced cultivation and production techniques.

16 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Food and Drink

With so much olive oil being produced, it is only natural that a big chunk of Spanish olive oil is exported. Many countries bottle olive oil in their own country, under EU law. Legally, they may brand it as a local product. One of the biggest culprits in this is Italy Next time you buy a bottle of Italian olive oil, remember that probably half, or more, of it is from Jaén. The tapa almost certainly originated in Andalucía. Tapa literally means ‘cover’ and originally referred to the small saucer used to cover the mouth of a wine glass to keep out dust and flies. In due course the word came to refer to the food placed on the saucer with which bars tempted drinkers. Perhaps the majority of bars in Andalucía will hand over something with every drink, but it is likely to be no more than a mouthful. The exception is Granada, where the (always free) tapas are sizeable and filling. These are a fun ‘freebie’ but, be warned: a couple of drinks before dinner can leave you with very little room for dinner itself! You can use this to your pecuniary advantage, of course. Fill up at lunch time when prices are cheaper, and order small drinks in the evening, grazing on the free tapas, supplementing them if you are still hungry. As well as the tapas handed out gratis, most bars have a selection available to order (and pay for). Tapas menus (or cartas in Spanish — ‘menú’ refers to a prix fixe set menu) offer richer fayre — crisp croquetas with an interior of molten béchamel, sliced chorizo braised in red wine, sizzling garlic prawns, chickpea and spinach stew, fried potato with piquant brava sauce, or a medallion of pork tenderloin flambéed in whisky. Some bars specialise in ‘gourmet tapas’, marrying the venerable staples of Spain with the culinary wizardry of Ferran Adriá or the flavours of south east Asia. For the visitor, the great advantage of this mode of eating (tapas and raciones) is that it is possible to sample an enormous variety of dishes in a comparatively short period of time. There is no need to feel torn between the meat and the fish: ordering tapas and small plates means that you can have both, and more besides, without feeling like a glutton. AMBIENTE You don’t need to speak castellano to understand this word. Ambience, for Spaniards, is enormously important and refers to something more than the vibe or atmosphere of a place. A Spaniard may not be able to put her finger upon exactly what makes for a buen ambiente (because it will be a “yo no sé qué”) but she will know it when she feels it. A particular bar may have excellent wine

17 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Ambiente and stunning food, but without ambiente it will never thrive. Foreigners often complain that Spaniards have no concept of ‘private space’. They throng, rather than queue; they stand very close when speaking to you; they tend to speak loudly; and if they see a bar that is already so packed that movement is impossible, they will conclude that this is the place to be, breathe in, and squeeze inside. In fact, it is the Spanish conception of public space that is different to that of Anglo-Saxons. Spaniards guard the private space of their homes more closely, perhaps, than we do. On the other hand, they do not try to creates pockets of privacy in the public square. A couple wishing to enjoy a romantic dinner à deux had better stay at home, or else visit another town where they will not run into any friends or relatives. When Paco and María want to invite their friends for dinner, it is more likely to mean dining at a restaurant than at home. Spaniards are almost pathologically sociable, remember. Meeting for dinner in a restaurant is preferable because it increases the likelihood of bumping into other friends. The only thing better than a quiet dinner with a couple of friends is a very noisy dinner with a dozen friends. “Let’s go somewhere quieter,” said no Spaniard ever. Indeed it is often suggested that the inability of Spaniards to arrive anywhere on time is a consequence of their polite and sociable nature and not the opposite as one might suppose. The reason that María arrives at 8.30pm for the drinks you arranged for 7pm is not that she is disorganised or lazy. When she left work, one of her colleagues invited her out for coffee. Being a pathologically sociable Spaniard, she accepted the invitation. In the café, she bumped into her husband’s distant cousin’s neighbour who insisted that she accompany him and his friends to a nearby bar for a beer. As she prepared to leave that bar, she met a group of friends from her schooldays who told her quite firmly that she could not possibly leave until she had shared some tapas and a glass of chilled fino with them. And that is before she nipped back to her apartment to change into something more suitable for the evening (Spain is a country where most people still dress up to go to a bar). If you are seeking solitude, then Spain (or, rather, a Spanish city) is probably not the best destination. If, on the other hand, you enjoy being among people or enjoy people watching, then nowhere is better. Andalucía has ambiente by the bucketload. Even its larger cities are more intimate and relaxed than cities like Barcelona or Madrid and there is no shortage of places to find peace and

18 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Ambiente quiet (though not necessarily solitude) in a city full of Spaniards intent upon having a good time. There are urban parks and riverside walks where people go to escape from the heat and the bustle of the town. There are plenty of noisy bars and lively squares, but there are also silent museums and peaceful churches. But even the hustle and bustle of Andalucía’s biggest city centres is a far cry from Friday night in any UK town. The volume may be raised because people are enjoying themselves, but you are unlikely to see anyone falling over drunk, vomiting into bins or behaving in an obnoxious fashion. It’s not unusual to see, at midnight or even later, toddlers playing happily beneath the outdoor tables of a bar as their parents enjoy post-prandial drinks. Many elements combine to create the distinct ambiente of Andalucía — its history, its trading links, its culinary traditions, its popular culture, the built environment and architecture, the character of its people, and the storms — political and meteorological — that is has weathered. Yet what is immediately obvious to any visitor who stays more than a day or two here, is the role played by geography. Spaniards love to observe that “Africa begins at the Pyrenees,” and although this overstates the case somewhat, it is hard to escape the feeling that Andalucía, geologically and meteorologically at least, belongs as much to Africa as to Europe. The region is sheltered to the north by Sierra Morena mountains (the ‘Dark Range’) which run along the southern edge of the central meseta. Then another range of mountains form a vast horseshoe-shaped arc running through southern Andalucía, curving south at Gibraltar to sweep into Africa and form the Atlas Mountains. The Leveche wind from the Sahara (called Sirocco elsewhere) brings dust, although the hotter wind is the Terral — cold air from the north that gathers heat over the central Spanish plain before dropping down into Andalucía and out to sea. The Levante and its opposite, the Ponente, blow back and forth, East and West, across the Strait of Gibraltar. This wind, which can be relentless and is said to send people mad; and heat, which can be searing in Summer, are both credited with creating the conditions to foster an important element in the Andalucían character: Duende. DUENDE El duende is perhaps best described as ‘the spirit of evocation’. Every andaluz is obsessed with it, yet none can quite explain what it is. It is a bit like Aristotle’s

19 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Duende definition of Justice (viz. what the just man practices). Duende is what Andalucíans have. It comes from inside as a physical/emotional response to art, and it is a necessary pre-condition for creating such powerful art in the first place. It is what gives you chills, makes you smile or cry as a bodily reaction to an artistic performance that is particularly expressive. Folk music in general, especially flamenco, tends to embody an authenticity that comes from a people whose culture is enriched by diaspora and hardship; vox populi, the human condition of joys and sorrows. Drawing on popular usage and Spanish folklore, the Granada poet Federico García Lorca attempted to develop the aesthetics of Duende in a lecture he gave in Buenos Aires in 1933: Juego y teoría del duende (‘Play and Theory of the Duende’). At least four elements can be isolated in Lorca's vision of duende: irrationality, earthiness, a heightened awareness of death, and a hint of the diabolical (or at last the mysteriously supernatural). The duende (literally) is an earth spirit (somewhat goblin-like) who helps the artist see the limitations of intelligence, reminding them that ‘ants could eat him or that a great arsenic lobster could fall suddenly on his head’; who brings the artist face-to-face with death, and who helps them create and communicate memorable, spine-chilling art. The duende is seen, in Lorca's lecture, as an alternative to style, to mere virtuosity, to God-given grace and charm (what Spaniards call ‘ángel’), and to the classical, artistic norms dictated by the muse. Not that the artist simply surrenders to the duende; they have to battle it skilfully, ‘on the rim of the well’, in ‘hand-to- hand combat’. Lorca writes: ‘The duende, then, is a power, not a work. It is a struggle, not a thought. I have heard an old maestro of the guitar say, “The duende is not in the throat; the duende climbs up inside you, from the soles of the feet.” Meaning this: it is not a question of ability, but of true, living style, of blood, of the most ancient culture, of spontaneous creation.’ Duende might be found in any art, but particularly in poetry and music. A technically flawless performance of a piece of music might be terribly impressive, but have no duende. Whereas a street guitarist, slightly out of tune and not fretting every note to perfection, may still display the sort of passion and soul that reeks of duende. Even those of us who are not andaluces are aware of this phenomenon. Your grandmother’s steak and kidney pudding has a vitality and authenticity that the far more polished Filet de Boeuf en Croûte at a fine dining restaurant lacks. A Palestrina motet sung at mass by a choir who believe the words they are singing has more power and credibility than a

20 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Duende recording by a professional choir. The wavering crooning of a folk singer may move you more than an aria sung by a world-class tenor. And so forth. The two art forms, par excellence, where the andaluces encounter the most profound duende are Flamenco and the corrida (or bullfight). Flamenco is essentially a professionalised form of Andalucían folk music, song and dance; it is opera and ballet rolled into one. It is at once earthy and primal, and yet also highly stylised and complex. It combines guitar music, singing, dancing, clapping, finger-snapping and other-worldly ululations known as jaleo. Bullfighting too is the professionalised form of the sport of horseback bull hunting, made into an art form. Foreigners tend to imagine that the aim of a bullfight is to kill a bull, but while that might be the inevitable end result, it is not why people flock to watch in such huge numbers. The Iberian fighting bull is a wild animal. The closest we have in the UK are the Chillingham Cattle in Northumberland — barely domesticated, and extremely dangerous. Over about 20 minutes, the matador and his assistants use short barbs and coloured cloths (over three acts) to dominate this wild animal. The final movement of the corrida is the (potentially) richest display of duende. A man and a bull move closely together, engaged in a sort of dance. By necessity, it is not a dance that can have been choreographed, for until some ten minutes before this the bull had never in its 5 year life encountered a human being (they are herded on horseback or by motor vehicle).

21 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Duende

Sometimes (depressingly often for aficionados) it can seem formulaic and workmanlike, but when touched by duende then it is magical, mysterious, almost religious. Zoological experts claim that if a fighting bull were put into an arena with a tiger, the tiger would come off worse. So the spectacle of a man engaged in a kind of dance with a bull should be impossible. It conforms to Lorca’s categories. It is irrational for a man to take on a dangerous animal, it is earthy insofar as the world of nature is brought into the heart of the town, and death is only ever a few inches away. That’s duende. What is typical of both flamenco and the corrida in Spain is that although both are regarded as the zenith of art, the practitioners of both art forms (and never call bullfighting a ‘sport’!) are lower, or working, class. Almost all flamenco virtuosi and a fair number of bullfighters are gypsies. The aristocratic bullfighters dominate the bull from horseback, and though they display skill and bravery, they rarely summon much duende. Similarly, if you go to the April Fair in Sevilla, you will see the cream of sevillano society dancing what looks very much like flamenco, but it is not. It is a related dance called the sevillana — elegant certainly, and often beautiful, but lacking in duende. Only a gypsy can achieve that.

22 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Paseo

PASEO The late afternoon paseo (stroll) is seen in every part of Spain, and indulged in by every age and class, although it is often the retired who seem most in evidence. At one level, it is a constitutional, a stroll to take the air and to wake from the afternoon nap. It is also an opportunity to meet friends, partake of the first alcoholic drink of the afternoon/evening, or have merienda — a cup of coffee and a cake — because dinner time in Spain is not until at least 9pm and more likely 10pm. Even in suburban residential areas, parents chat and drink while children play. Whether you are in a large city, a modest town or a tiny village, you will see people taking an afternoon stroll. And this is partly what it is all about: to see and be seen. No Spaniard undertakes the paseo in a T-shirt and jogging bottoms: this is something to dress up for, especially for older people. The paseo can feel odd to the visitor at first. Where did all these people suddenly come from? Why are they so smartly dressed? Where are they going? But soon it becomes a familiar part of the daily routine. One begins to realise that every day, elderly Spanish men put on a crisp shirt, a natty tie, and freshly pressed trousers simply in order to walk a few hundred yards at a stately pace. Their wives, similarly, don their best frocks and finest jewellery and squeeze their bunions into their most stylish sandals (gold ones, usually — no one wears gold sandals with the aplomb of a diminutive Spanish octogenarian). As noted above, Spaniards rarely call on friends (only relatives) — they are sociable in public. The paseo is about far more than exercise. Without the paseo, how would one learn that the Rodríguez couple have a new baby, that Sr Díaz is out of hospital, that Marí-Luz has a new boyfriend, or that Sra Mendoza has lost weight? SPAIN UNDER ISLAMIC RULE A reference or name that you will encounter a lot in this part of Spain is La Merced. Merced is the Spanish word for ‘mercy’ and Spaniards have traditionally had great devotion to Our Lady of Mercy — the enduring popularity of the name Mercedes attests to this. The prominence of this particular Marian appellation is largely thanks to the Mercedarians — a Catholic mendicant order of friars (and later nuns) founded in 1218 in Barcelona by St Pedro Nolasco. The full name of the order is ‘The Royal, Celestial and Military Order of Our Lady of

23 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Spain Under Islamic Rule

Mercy and the Redemption of Captives’ and as its name suggests, it was founded to redeem Christians taken captive by the Islamic polities of North Africa and Southern Europe. This historical fact — the enslavement of Christian Spaniards by the Moorish rulers of Spain prior to 1492, and then by Moorish corsairs until well into the 18th century — reminds us that the reality of Islamic rule in Spain is somewhat at odds with sanitised version so often presented. This sanitised (and largely fictional) version is one you will encounter throughout Andalucía, and perhaps understandably so. Moorish architecture (though actually somewhat derivative of Visigothic and Byzantine forms) is undeniably beautiful. The Islamic invaders brought with them crops, cooking techniques and technologies that greatly contributed to Iberian culture. And, occasionally, the Muslim rulers showed genuine tolerance and liberalism. Put this alongside a growing secularism and a desire to throw off the ‘old fashioned’ yoke of Catholicism (too much associated with the ancien régime first of absolute monarchs then of Franco) and you find a desire to praise anything in Spain’s history which is not Catholic or Christian. One finds something remarkably similar in the Languedoc, where St Dominic and his friars are the ‘baddies’ while the dualist Cathars are portrayed as 13th century enlightened New Agers. The guides and guidebooks to every Moorish site you visit (and they are many, and breathtaking) will point out how such-and-such a church, monastery or cathedral was constructed on or over the site of an earlier mosque. What is less often mentioned is that Granada, Córdoba, Sevilla and Málaga were all Christian cities — and dioceses — by the end of the third century. The great mosques, indeed almost all mosques, were built on the sites of cathedrals and churches which had been destroyed by the Muslim invaders. Recent years have seen the publication of a stream of books celebrating the culture of Southern Spain prior to 1492, most notoriously María Rosa Menocal’s The Ornament of the World: How Muslims, Jews and Christians Created a Culture of Tolerance in Medieval Spain. The gist of most of this and similar books is that a flourishing, cosmopolitan and liberal culture fostered by Spain’s Muslim rulers — a successful and harmonious society, where urbane and wise Muslims transformed the rude and barbaric Visigothic chiefdoms into an Elysian realm filled with tolerance for all faiths — was senselessly destroyed by the Catholic

24 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Spain Under Islamic Rule fundamentalist forces of Fernando and Isabel who ushered in a period of oppression, typified above all by the Spanish Inquisition. From our twentieth century standpoint, we might find much to criticise about the Catholic Monarchs, but it does not follow that the rulers they overthrew were paragons of enlightened virtue. However attractive the idea of a lost paradise of convivencia (living together) under the Moors might be, the truth is probably closer to the precaria co- existencia suggested by Dario Fernandez Morera in his 2016 book The Myth of the Andalusian Paradise: Muslims, Christians, and Jews under Islamic Rule in Medieval Spain. Muslims, Christians and Jews may indeed have coexisted at times, but it was unlikely to have amounted to a real ‘living together’ — these groups remained distinct in terms of religion, culture and, most importantly, power. For this reason, it is more accurate to talk of ‘Spain under Islamic Rule’ than of ‘Muslim Spain’. The dynamic of Moorish society was one of ruler and client at best, and this is borne out by the linguistic record. Spanish (viz. castellano) is a language that evolved from Vulgar Latin and of which the first identifiable written records appeared as late as the ninth century, after the Moorish conquest of much of the peninsula. Had the native population and their Moorish rulers genuinely lived together then one might expect to see more of an Arabic influence in modern Spanish. In fact, although calculations vary by one percentage point in either direction, the number of words with an Arabic etymology in Spanish runs at about 7%, whereas over 30% of the words in English — a germanic language — have a French origin. The English were ‘Normanised’ in a way that the Spaniards were not ‘Arabised’. Moreover, those Arabic origin words overwhelmingly describe nouns relating to food, farming, commerce and administration (i.e. those areas of life where otherwise separate groups would come into contact) rather than domestic and family life, art, poetry or philosophy. Even noun pairs are limited to these areas of vocabulary. Thus we have óleo and aceite for oil, escorpión and alacrán for scorpion, and oliva and aceituna for olive, reflecting Latin and Arabic roots respectively. The same thing occurs in English for germanic/French roots of course: cow/beef, sheep/mutton, dove/pigeon, but these extend far beyond the realms of food and farming. In English we find buy and purchase, blossom and flower, weep and cry, deem and judge, forgive and pardon, grave and tomb, and many more. Indeed, many such etymologically

25 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Spain Under Islamic Rule distinct noun-pairs are familiar from the British use of legal doublets, which suggests a conscious marrying of two linguistic traditions: law and order, kind and nature, goods and chattels, etc. Within 80 years of the Norman Conquest, the grammar of English had already changed significantly, and by the time of the emergence of Middle English three hundred years later, the assimilation of French vocabulary was more or less complete. The Moors ruled significant portions of Iberia for 750 years, and some Christians and most Jews would have have spoken Arabic, yet it failed to make much of an impact upon either Spanish or Ladino (the version of Spanish spoken by Sephardic Jews). As noted above, raiding parties from North Africa routinely captured slaves from the European coast of the Mediterranean, even penetrating as far as Eastern Europe. The fair-skinned Saqaliba or Slavs (from which, after all, the English word ‘slave’ ultimately comes) were highly prized, not least as harem concubines, and many ended up in Andalucía, or were traded through andaluz ports. Furthermore, the Moors had taken Southern Iberia by conquest and according to Sharia Law, the conquered people were the spoils of war. They could be made to serve as soldiers (like the Ottoman Mamluks), taken into sexual slavery or put to work. Those not enslaved, but unwilling to embrace Islam, were required to pay the jizyah — an annual tax levied upon non-Muslim subjects. Jews, who tended to be highly educated and skilled in administration, had it slightly better, but were still placed under restrictions as dhimmi (non- Muslims). Anti-Christian pogroms were frequent, in which crucifixions, impaling, and beheadings were frequent, and Christian children were routinely taken and raised as Muslims. At times, Jews allied themselves with Islamic authority, but this did not alter their subaltern status. Thus, in 1066, the Jews of Granada were slaughtered by Muslim mobs, while the Karaites were systematically annihilated throughout Andalucía. In the words of Maimonides, the Jewish philosopher who witnessed these atrocities: ‘Never did a nation [the Muslims] molest, degrade, debase, and hate us as much as they.’ The dystopian reality was in part the consequence of Sharia, as interpreted for application in society by four broad schools of jurisprudence. In Andalucía, the Maliki School prevailed more often than not, and was known for its severity towards non-Muslims. The Andalusian jurist Ibn Abdun wrote in 1100: ‘[Jews and Christians] must be detested and avoided. It is forbidden to accord them with the greeting, “Peace be upon you.” Satan possesses them, leading them to

26 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Spain Under Islamic Rule forget God’s warnings. They belong to Satan. A distinctive sign must be worn by them so that they may be recognized and this sign may become a source of shame for them.’ Thus, at times, Christians were made to wear a blue patch, and the Jews a yellow one. Documentary evidence also suggests a mass exodus of non-Muslims from Andalucía to Christian territories to the north. By contrast, in the Middle East and Egypt, where a different school of jurisprudence held sway, non-Muslims were less severely persecuted, and even flourished. Those who believe in the existence of a Moorish paradise of tolerance and enlightenment are not wholly mistaken, though. Andalucía was under Muslim rule for almost 800 years, and during this time there were times when various rulers ushered in periods of greater tolerance. However, in every case, these rulers were overthrown, either by the rulers of the neighbouring taifas or by invading forces from North Africa. In 1090, after 300 years of Muslim rule in Iberia, the Almoravid Sultan of Morocco, invaded — ostensibly to assist the rulers of the Spanish taifas to repel the Christian invaders from the north. Whatever convivencia (coexistence) had been achieved hitherto was swept away by a far more fundamentalist regime. Less than a century later, in 1147, the Almoravid dynasty was judged to have ‘gone native’ and it fell to the even more hard-line Almohads to step in. Two biographical examples — two thinkers often held up as shining examples of the humanist tolerance of Moorish convivencia — serve to show that the narrative of Moorish tolerance and convivencia is at best flawed, if not entirely fabricated. The first is one of the greatest Jewish scholars of the medieval period, Moses Maimonides, was born in Córdoba in 1135 (or 1138, sources vary). He was not only a religious scholar, but a renowned philosopher, astronomer and physician and was widely revered as a polymath in his own lifetime. However, the Almohad conquerors of Andalucía abolished dhimmi status in 1148, meaning that Christian and Jewish communities had a stark choice: conversion, slavery (and forced conversion), exile, or death. It seems that Maimonides’ family at first feigned conversion, but as is so often the burden of their people, even ‘converted’ Jews were made to wear a distinguishing badge. The family eventually chose exile, and the young Moses first moved around southern Spain before he was forced to flee to Fez in Morocco and then to Egypt, where he died in 1204.

27 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Spain Under Islamic Rule

The other great intellectual to fall foul of the Almohads was Maimonides’ near contemporary Ibn Rushd, better known by the latinised form of his name, Averroes. He is perhaps the Muslim with the greatest claim to have influenced Christian philosophy. Also born in Córdoba, Ibn Rushd was the preeminent philosopher of Moorish Spain and his commentaries on Aristotle were later eagerly imbibed by St Thomas Aquinas. In the works of Aquinas, St Paul was given the title ‘The Apostle’, St Augustine is ‘the Doctor’, and Aristotle ‘the Philosopher’. Ibn Rushd is honoured with the sobriquet, ‘The Commentator’. As a Muslim, erstwhile judge of the Sharia tribunals in both Sevilla and Córdoba, and court physician to the caliph, Ibn Rushd might have been expected to be protected by, and even celebrated in his native city. But Ibn Rushd’s teachings were judged to be heretical and following a trial in Córdoba, his works were publicly burned and he was exiled; first to Lucena in Spain from whence he fled to Marrakesh. Some historians have plausibly claimed that Ibn Rushd was a victim not of the caliph’s displeasure, but of the scheming of the ulema (or scholars) of the royal court. Either way, his is not a tale that fits the popular narrative of tolerant enlightenment. As for the architectural legacy of Islamic Spain, the Visigothic contribution is often ignored. Indeed, the Visigoths were hardly ‘barbaric,’ for they created a vibrant, sophisticated society, where art and architecture thrived. Archaeological evidence points to extravagant buildings which were destroyed by the Muslim invaders. The Visigoths were part of Romanitas, or “Roman- ness,” that deeply influential and permanent context of Greco-Roman learning and culture which extended throughout the Mediterranean, the Middle East, Central Asia, and out towards India. Islam too arose and expanded within this Classical context (as the recent work of the Inarah group of scholars clearly shows). The French philosopher Rémi Brague has observed that Islam has always been a great digester of cultures. Thus, “Islamic” architecture is Greco- Roman aesthetics redeployed. The iconic Alhambra, built at a time when Islamic rule had all but vanished from Spain, is also an exuberant gasp of a long-buried Visigothic civilization. Ideas do not simply disappear. There is never wholesale cultural amnesia. SAFETY Spain is the only country where I have had my pocket picked (in Barcelona) — quite an achievement given how much time I have spent in cities in Africa, Asia

28 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Safety and the Middle East. On the other hand, I have always felt very safe in Spain, which is reflected in the statistics. Police recorded assaults in Spain as a whole average around 60 per 100,000. By way of comparison, Italy and Germany record around twice as many, France five times as many, and England and Wales a staggering 12 times as many. This may, of course, simply reflect greater efficiency with paperwork in the UK. There are certainly ‘no go’ areas — often immigrant ghettoes — with the same sorts of crime problems as in the UK (drugs, gangs, theft, illegal prostitution, etc.). However, these are in the suburbs — places that no tourist is likely to stray into, and certainly not after dark. City centres are pretty safe, at any time of the day or night, for a number of reasons. One is that Spaniards are very keen on ‘public space’ and they like to occupy it — parks, streets, pavements, squares, etc. Another reason is that nowhere in any city centre is ever really ‘deserted’ (save for what Spaniards call the madrugada, i.e. the hour or two just before dawn). Spaniards rarely sit down for dinner before 9pm, no bars close before midnight, and many stay open until 2am. The third reason, as I outlined above, is that Spaniards don’t really understand ‘personal space’, at least not in the public sphere. It would be unkind to say that they are ‘nosey’, but they certainly take an interest in what is going on around them. That means keeping a look out for thieves and pickpockets. You might find that a man peddling novelty keyrings is angrily chased from a bar by its owner, while the guy selling red roses is unmolested. This is because the former is a known pickpocket and the latter is not. Even so, the usual advice holds true. Use the safe in your room and do not carry all your cash and cards with you. Try to keep money and valuables in the zipped or buttoned pocket, and better still, separate pockets. Women should use a small handbag which they can keep to the front, rather than slinging behind (the Spanish chain Misako https://www.misako.com/en/ sells quite stylish small handbags for under €25 and bum bags for less than €20). Never hook handbags or jackets over chair backs in bars or restaurants. Know where your phone is, and never place it on the table. Be alert when you use an ATM. Make sure you have a note of your credit card numbers and the relevant emergency phone numbers. Also, make a note of your phone’s model name and IMEI number, serial number, etc. (iPhone: Settings > General > About | Android: Settings > System > About Phone). If your phone is stolen, the police will ask for this information if you report the theft.

29 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Safety

It is a legal requirement to carry an ID card in Spain. For UK citizens, that means a passport. In practice, however, most tourists are unaware of this law, and the police realise this. Even those that do know of the existence of Article 4 of La Ley Orgánica 4/2000 do not cart their passport around with them, understanding the nightmare that a lost passport would initiate. Anecdotally, the only people I have heard of falling foul of this law are tourists who make trouble in other ways (drunken Stag Weekenders, for example). On the other hand, a number of museums and galleries are free for EU citizens, so there will be occasions when you will need to have your passport with you.

PICKPOCKET TRICKS The professional pickpockets tend to work in teams and, though it seems unpleasant admit it, are more likely than not to be immigrants or gypsies. Spain is less racially tolerant than the UK, especially where Africans and North Africans are concerned, but recent governments have done little to address the flood of illegal migrants crossing the Alboran Sea or the Western Mediterranean. Madrid thus wins brownie points for their generosity in accepting refugees, yet does little to help them find work or assimilate. They too often end up in poor-quality housing in ghettoes and, with legal employment barred to them, turn to petty crime. You will see young men (mostly sub-Saharan Africans) selling handbags and other ‘designer’ goods of dubious origin and doubtful quality on the street. These manteros (so called because they display their wares on a large blanket or manto) are usually illegals and they are routinely moved on by the police. The stationary tourists gawping at the fake Gucci handbags are sitting (or rather, standing) targets for pickpockets, who are often in cahoots with the manteros. Matronly gypsy women will try to sell you sprigs of herbs (usually romero — rosemary) or flowers. Like the manteros, they sometimes work in teams to pick pockets. If you want to support gypsies (who are generally pretty low down the socio-economic ladder), it is better to take a carriage ride.

30 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Safety

I have also heard reports of fake ‘chuggers’, complete with clipboards, whose aim is to distract you so an accomplice can rifle through your pockets. You will also encounter entirely genuine street vendors who are selling high quality hand made items. These people probably do deserve your attention if you like the look of their wares. Many of these vendors were victims of the 2008-2014 economic downturn, which was particularly keenly felt in Andalucía which at one point had the highest unemployment rate in the EU. The other place you are likely to come across peddlers is when you are sitting on a tarraza enjoying a drink. Here the goods for sale tend to be flowers, novelty items or pseudo-ethnic artefacts or jewellery. A simple no gracias (noh grath-yass) is usually enough to send them on their way. As tourist numbers increase, so do those begging on the streets. Most tend to occupy a place on the street and do not pester passers by. Like some of the street vendors, many of those begging have very sad stories bound up with the post-2008 economic downturn in Spain and the almost unbelievable unemployment rates which followed. The other class of people seen begging are the disabled. A very concrete way of helping disabled people in Spain is by buying an ONCE (on-thay) lottery ticket. The Organización Nacional de Ciegos Españoles (ONCE) was founded in 1938 to support the blind and visually impaired, but now supports people with all kinds of disabilities. Partly this is through social projects, but one of the chief means of support is through providing jobs a ticket sellers (ONCE lottery tickets are not sold in shops, but by registered street sellers and kiosks). In the UK over 60% of the blind are unemployed. In Spain the figure is around 5% and held steady even during the recent economic turbulence. Since 2014, Once has developed its commercial arm, known as Ilunion — a network of companies covering around 50 business lines, including a chain of hotels. Ilunion employs over 32,000 people, around 40% of whom are blind or disabled. Between Once and Ilunion, some 38,000 blind and disabled people are directly

31 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!: Safety employed, with a further 95,000 working for projects and companies supported by the Once Foundation. By any metric, ONCE is an extremely effective charitable endeavour and seems to do a far better job of caring for people with disabilities than the state ever could. Public trust in ONCE is extremely high. Tickets are sold every day. Monday to Friday the ticket is called a cupón and costs €1.50 with 55 top prizes of €35,000 and many lower value prizes right down to the €1.50 prize (your money back). If you pay an extra 50¢ for La Paga (the pay-packet), then you are eligible for a top prize of €3,000 per month for 25 years. On Saturdays and Sundays the sueldazo (salary) ticket has a top prize of €300,000 and €5,000 per month for 20 years. These prizes give an indication of how many tickets are sold, on a daily basis. Few Once vendors speak English, but you can just ask for un cupón (oon koopon) or un sueldazo (oon swell-dah-THo), perhaps adding para hoy (for today: para oiy) for good measure. You can check your results each day (after 10pm) online: bit.ly/onceresults If you win, just take your cupón to a kiosk and collect your winnings. When buying or redeeming a cupón you will need to be patient — many vendors rely upon strong spectacles or need to use a magnifying glass to check tickets. Larger wins will be paid directly into your bank account, but as a foreigner, you will liable for tax!

32 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Comida y bebida — Food and Drink Comida y bebida — Food and Drink BARES, ASADORES, CAFETERÍAS, RESTAURANTES, ETC. The variety of establishments devoted to eating and drinking, and the nomenclature thereof, can be confusing. You can order breakfast in a bar, have a beer in a café, a three course meal in a taberna and tapas in a restaurante; so the following attempt at a taxonomy may be enlightening:

Restaurantes Unsurprisingly, a restaurant. A place that calls itself a restaurant should, at the very least, have a dedicated dining area with table service. It may be the sort of place that has table clothes and leather-bound menus, or it may be a bare- tables sort of place with the menu written on a blackboard. Restaurantes, as in the UK, come in all shapes and sizes. (It is worth mentioning again at this point that a menu, in Spain, is not a menú (meh-noo), but a carta — a menú is a set menu usually, but not always, offered only at lunchtime, Monday to Friday.) Some restaurantes are filled with dining tables and only visited by people wishing to eat. These are the places that are only open for dinner (and maybe lunch). Other restaurantes are basically bars with a separate dining area (called a comedor). Half the patrons might be sitting down for three courses while the rest are standing in the bar nibbling tapas.

Asador An asador is a restaurante specialising in roast meat (asador is the word given to the spit upon which meat is roasted), which in most of Spain this tends to mean lamb or pork.

Mesón A mesón is rather old fashioned word for an inn. These restaurantes, so called, tend to be rather traditional. Do not expect to encounter avocado foams or carrot gels.

33 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Bares, Asadores, Cafeterías, Restaurantes, etc.

Parrilla The most common cooking techniques in Spain are the stove (soups, stews, paellas, etc.), the fryer (croquetas, chips, etc.) and the parrilla (everything else) — ovens are unusual outside traditional restaurants. A parrilla is a grill (a French ‘flat top’), and although every bar in Spain has one, if an establishment is called a parrilla then it specialises in grilled meat and is very likely to have a charcoal grill rather than a standard hot plate.

Marisquería Mariscos is the term used to refer to seafood, so a marisquería (mah-riskay-ree- ah) is a fish and seafood restaurant. Although pescados are fish, pescaderías are fishmongers, not dining establishments.

Taberna A taberna is a bar (or maybe a pub), but of a fairly traditional sort — the sort of place that if it were in Britain would have wood panelling and a log fire. Primarily drinking establishments, tabernas often serve good quality food: tapas and sharing plates at the very least, and sometimes full sit-down meals.

Pub If a place is called a ‘pub’ it is a pretty safe bet that an attempt has been made to recreate an English (or Irish) pub, or more precisely someone’s idea of an English (or Irish) pub. That may mean that they have a range of beers beyond the standard offer of one sort of lager. It might be called a ‘pub’ because it is trying to be cool (Spaniards greatly admire English ‘style’), or it might be grungy. It could be a temple to the gin and tonic, or else throb to the beat of death metal. There is no way of knowing until you have a look inside. But in general, my advice is to remain outside.

Cafetería/Café Spanish cafeterías range from coffee-shops at one end to bars at the other, and all points in between. It could be primarily a café selling coffee, cakes, ice cream and snacks, but unlike similar establishments in the UK it will also have draught beer and a decent selection of wines and spirits. Alternatively it might essentially be a bar with a good kitchen. A pure coffee and cakes sort of place

34 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Bares, Asadores, Cafeterías, Restaurantes, etc. would be called a panadería, pastelería or confitería. The precise boundary between a cafetería and a bar is loose and fluid, but a cafetería always serves food.

Bar A bar can be many things, but it always has an actual bar across which drinks are sold. Some tiny bars serve very little apart from drinks, but even the most basic will have a simple selection of tapas. This is the baseline. Almost every bar serves (good) coffee and those that open in the morning will offer breakfast (freshly squeezed orange juice and toasted bread with tomato, ham, cheese, or jam). Some offer a menú at lunchtime. Some close between lunch and dinner, others are busy in the late afternoon with people enjoying merienda (coffee and a sweet or savoury snack). In plenty of bars it is possible to have a full meal. Some bars have a separate comedor which means they are also restaurantes. Most bars are open until midnight (later on Friday and Saturday nights), whereas cafeterías tend to close a little earlier. Remember, though that most bars do not run a kitchen between 1600 and 1900. During that time, any tapa you order will be lunchtime leftovers. Spanish bars have at least two, and sometimes three, price categories — terraza, the outside tables with waiter service; mesa, inside tables with waiter service (in some establishments called sala, especially where it is a separate dining room), and barra, food ordered from and consumed at the bar (the word for the establishment is bar, but the word for the counter is barra). A plate of cheese might cost you €3 at the barra, €4 at a mesa, and €5 on the terraza. Restaurantes which have seating inside and outside do not usually charge different rates. To get a sense of what sort of bar a particular bar is, go inside and have a look, taking your cue from the locals. Are people sitting at tables eating meals, are they knocking back the vino and hoovering up the tapas, or are they sipping little glasses of beer and picking daintily at dishes of olives? This is also a reliable way of choosing the right things to try, especially when it comes to tapas. Except in the tourist traps, which have worked out that British tourists enjoy nothing more than a plate of chicken nuggets, it is rare to come across bad food in Spain. But every bar will have its own speciality and the locals know what it is. Look around and you will probably notice that a majority of customers are tucking into slices of tortilla. Around the corner, the tortilla is

35 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Bares, Asadores, Cafeterías, Restaurantes, etc. untouched because everyone is enjoying the fried calamares (squid). There is a good reason for this.

Bodega/Vinoteca A bodega is technically a wine merchant (it is related to the Greek word for ‘storehouse’ — apotheke). Until comparatively recently much of the wine sold in Spain was ‘bulk wine’ — one would take empty bottles to the bodega to be filled from the barrel (and some elderly people still do this). Bodegas and vinotecas offered customers the opportunity to sample the wine on sale and over the course of time became more like bars than shops. Nowadays almost all bodegas are basically bars, but you should expect a more or less extensive choice of wine.

Cervecería Technically a brewery (of beer, cerveza) but these days just a bar. In recent years, a number of cervecerías serving ‘craft’ beers have sprung up.

Bar de Copas This is a cocktail bar and is about the consumption of liquid. Beyond crisps, olives and nuts, do not expect much in the way of food. Beer is bottled rather than draught and most customers will be drinking cocktails or spirits with mixers (like the every popular gin tonic and the ubiquitous Cuba libre). Most bares de copas do not open until the evening because cocktails and mixed drinks are a post-pradial pleasure in Spain, not apéritifs. Before a meal, Spaniards will drink beer, wine, sherry or vermú. A half litre glass of gin and tonic is a digestif.

Club Not necessarily a nightclub even though it is a club that is open at night. However, if you see an illuminated sign saying simply ‘club’ then the chances are that it is what is known in Spain as a ‘puticlub’ — a hostess bar or, if you prefer, a brothel. The same goes for anything called a whiskería. If a panadería sells pan (bread) and a cervecería sells cerveza (beer), then one might assume that a whiskería sells whisky, whereas it is just another name for a puticlub. There are very few such establishments in the city centres, though, because most brothels are out of town in motel-like establishments. Prostitution in the

36 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Bares, Asadores, Cafeterías, Restaurantes, etc. cities is on the street, though few cities have a recognised or static ‘Red Light District’. TIPS FOR USING TRIPADVISOR AND OTHER REVIEW WEBSITES Price Categories: The classification of establishments by price (€, €€, €€€, etc.) is somewhat vague and is comparative rather than quantitative (cheap, mid- range, pricey). It clearly makes sense for review sites not to provide a key with specific prices because this removes the need to continually update the listings and prevents users being misled by out of date information. Another reason for vagueness is that review sites cannot easily compare like with like. A tapas bar may not have anything priced more than €9 on its carta, which would put it in the ‘cheap eats’ category, but that does not necessarily mean it is cheap or good value for money. Cheaper than a sit-down restaurant certainly, but more expensive than other tapas bars. Similarly, an upmarket restaurant may set you back at least €50 per person, but if you choose just to have a glass of wine and a tapa at the bar you will only pay a few Euros. The only reliable way to get an idea of cost is to see the menu. Use Spanish websites: If you are interested in a more ‘authentic’ experience, try using www.tripadvisor.es and www.yelp.es, rather than the *.co.uk or *.com versions. The country-specific sites prioritise feedback from Spanish user reviews, so ratings and rankings will reflect local tastes and standards, rather than the expectations of ‘Brits abroad’. Unless you speak Spanish, though, you will need the English version to read the reviews themselves. Remember the online booking feature: Part of the fun of choosing a restaurant is wandering past, having a look at the menu, peering inside and deciding whether you like the cut of its jib. But if you already know where you want to eat, the website thefork.com (or, if you prefer, eltenedor.es) lists those tripadvisor restaurants which offer online reservations which can save you time. Read between the lines: A handful of bad reviews might set alarm bells ringing, but often they say more about the diners than the dining establishment. I have seen bars marked down for ‘poor choice of beers’ even though almost nowhere in Spain has more than one beer on tap. Another

37 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Tips for using tripadvisor and other review websites common gripe is a ‘poor selection of desserts’. Again, that is to be expected. Spain doesn’t really do puddings, at least not beyond the usual, rather pedestrian, suspects. Of course, it works the other way around, too. Rave reviews and high scores may actually be waxing lyrical about burgers and pizza rather than the fresh, local cuisine that you are (or should be) looking for. What does the manager say? Look to see whether the bar or restaurant replies to reviews, either to acknowledge a good review or to address an issue raised in a poor review. If the manager or owner is prepared to take the time to respond to plaudits and complaints then it suggests an establishment which takes feedback seriously, values its customers and is keen to raise its game. TAPAS, RACIONES AND LOS MENÚS DEL DÍA A tapa is traditionally a morsel to accompany a drink, of the sort and size that might be given away free — a few olives, a handful of crisps, a single croqueta, a slice of ham on a small piece of bread. It is also a tradition that began in Andalucía, although it reaches its apotheosis in the elaborate pintxos of the Basque Country. Buy a beer in Granada and you’ll be given a substantial tapa to go with it; buy a beer in Barcelona and you’ll get nothing. There are still a few bars that will give you a decent mouthful to accompany your drink, but in most places you will have to pay if you want more than a few olives. You will also see ración which is a plate or large portion of tapas, enough for a few people to share. In between the ración and the tapa is the media ración. Many options on the carta will be available as tapas, raciones or medias raciones, priced accordingly. There is no hard and fast rule about the proportions, but the bigger the portion the better value and a rule of thumb is that if a tapa is enough for one person a ración is enough for 4 and a media ración enough for two. But of course this rule of thumb also depends on how many dishes in total you will be ordering. You should be able to work it out from the menu. A ración would be enough for several people who just wanted something to pick at, but might only serve 2 people sharing it as a meal. Sometimes the carta indicates the number of items. For example, dishes like croquetas (croquettes) may also say ‘1 Ud.’ or ‘3 Uds.’ — ‘Ud./Uds.’ is the abbreviation for unidad/unidades (unit or units). This can be a cause of confusion: on signs and instructions the polite form of the second person pronoun (usted/ustedes) is most commonly

38 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Tapas, Raciones and Los Menús del Día abbreviated as ‘Vd./Vds.’ (from the old Spanish ‘vusted’), but ‘Ud./Uds.’ is sometimes used. Raciones always come with a little basket of bread and strangely moreish tiny breadsticks called picos. You will be charged for this, unless you say you do not want it, but except in high-end establishments it will only cost a Euro per person and, craftily, it includes your cutlery. Feel free to order something to share (para compartir) — this is how the Spaniards do it. Some English translations of menus render ración as ‘plate’, which should not be confused with platos combinados (‘combined plates’) which are dishes meant for one person that combine items on the menu. Menus (that is, cartas) of bars that remain open during the day often have a non-lunch carta that will list: Tapas — Raciones — Platos Combinados — Bocadillos This allows smaller bars to maintain an impressive-looking menu. There will always be jamón, and you can have it as a tapa, as a ración (or media ración), in a bread roll as a sandwich called a bocadillo, or as a plato combinado, where it could come with fried eggs, salad and sautéed potatoes. Platos combinados are not terribly elegant or exciting, but are good value (less than €10) and filling. They usually involved a main ingredient (eggs, fish, meat), a carbohydrate (generally potatoes or rice) and a salad or vegetable.

Los Sandwiches The standard sandwich is the bocadillo (or the larger bocata): a filled French roll that should comfortably fill the hand. Montaditos are technically tiny open sandwiches that one often sees displayed on bars (those sold by the chain ‘100 Montaditos’ (see below), are actually small bocadillos). However, unless you are in an artisanal bakery, I would generally steer clear of anything called a sandwich because it is likely to be made with flabby white bread: tolerable when toasted, otherwise pretty dreadful. The Spanish equivalent of the croque- monsieur is the ‘sandwich mixto’ — a cheese and ham toastie often with the addition of an egg (madame) and available as a ‘sandwich vegetal’. However, a sandwich vegetal is not always a vegetarian sandwich! It might simply be a cheese and ham sandwich with the addition of lettuce and tomato. Even when it has no ham, it might contain tuna.

39 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Tapas, Raciones and Los Menús del Día

El Menú del Día A menú, as we have seen, is not a menu (that is a carta) but a menú del día: a daily lunch menu that almost all bars and cafés offer. The provision of a menú del día used to be a legal requirement — in the 1960s, in a move that would warm the heart of Jeremy Corbyn, the state fixed not only the price but also the content of the menú itself and even stipulated that there should be exactly 80g of bread. The menú del día is not the daily special either. In some establishments it may be anything but special and just what they want to offload because it was not sold yesterday. However, most menús del día are extremely good value, filling and tasty. You will get a primer plato (starter) — very often offering choices like ensalada mixta, espaguetis (spaghetti with tomato sauce), sopa (soup), or simply verduras (vegetables) — and a segundo plato (main course). The choices for these two courses will be listed on a blackboard and there are usually 3 or 4 options for each. Mains will usually include one chicken/meat and one fish/seafood choice. The meat is often ternera, which is translated as veal, but is older and richer/darker than milk-fed veal. A drink (bebida) is always included, as is bread (pan). If the menu says vino, that might mean a glass, a carafe, or even half a bottle. It also means that you can choose beer or a soft drink instead. Most menús del día give you the choice of either dessert or coffee (postre ó café). Expect a menú del día to cost between €8 and €16 in most establishments — you can usually expect the price of the menu to be about the same as the average price of a main course from the carta, so in smarter restaurants you might pay over €20, but it will still be far cheaper than going a la carta. It’s perfectly acceptable for children to share a menú. Unlike the carta, a menú is usually only available at lunchtime (from 2pm; 1pm at the earliest); and you should be able

40 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Tapas, Raciones and Los Menús del Día to see which bars and cafés are heaving with Spaniards (and thus a good bet), but leave it too late and you may not find a table in the better places. CÓMO COMER (HOW TO EAT) You may the sort of person who normally has a very light lunch with a main meal in the evening, in which case the menú del día is probably not going to suit you. But if you are prepared to go native, remember that Spanish lunches are long and unhurried and can be followed with a siesta, or something almost as low-energy. The lunchtime menú, providing you find one that appeals, is the cheapest way to eat in the middle of the day, so give it a go if you can. It is also a very cost-effective way of eating in the more expensive restaurants. Admittedly the choice at lunchtime will be more limited, but it is equally likely to be only a third of the price of eating at the same establishment in the evening. Going to a restaurant in the evening can be a very pleasant experience, but I would recommend giving tapear (‘to go for tapas’, especially bar to bar) a shot. It will not cost any more than going to a restaurant and enables you to try a greater variety of eateries. Start off in a promising looking bar and order a tapa of something that sounds delicious, especially if you see people around you eating it. Move on somewhere else. The walk between the first and second bar will reanimate your appetite. Repeat, until you are full or ready for bed. If the mood takes you, have something more substantial in the form of raciones and medias raciones. This is a very enjoyable way of eating, especially in a pair or group. In a restaurant, you might order a steak and it would come with an accompaniment of some kind of potato and some vegetables. In a bar, from the carta of tapas/raciones, you simply order the elements you fancy separately. A plate of ham, lamb chops, or tortilla; some patatas, a salad or griddled mushrooms. Order a couple of dishes to begin with and wait to see if you want more. You do not need to order everything in one go. Do not ignore salad. Because of the freshness and quality of the ingredients — including the olive oil — salads are a delicious option in Spain. Even a very simple lettuce and tomato salad is a very different creature when compared to its insipid and watery British equivalent. Salads can also be quite filling, frequently embellished with nuts, dried fruit, chicken, ham, cheese, seafood,

41 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Cómo Comer (How to eat) asparagus, artichokes, or pickled spiralised carrots or beetroot (popular in Spain long before the current spiralising fad in the UK). Another surprise is the beef-burger. You will find it on many menus (cartas), even those of rather high-end restaurants. If it costs €3 in a back street bar it is likely to be average at best, but in posher places it can reach gourmet heights. The secret is the young beef (ternera) that is used, often mixed with belly pork for fat to balance the lean beef, alongside the expertise of Spanish cooks in grilling meat. The result is a deliciously juicy burger cooked medium rare (ideally), tender and full of flavour, paired with slow-cooked onions and sharp cheese. 100 MONTADITOS This is the name of a chain of sandwich shops that began on Instantilla beach in Huelva in 2000 by the sevillano entrepreneur José María Fernández Capitán. In some ways it is the Pret a Manger of Spain, though crossed with Poundland. The concept is simple — freshly made sandwiches (actually small bocadillos in vienna rolls) in one hundred combinations for €1—€1.50 each. The concept spread quickly and there now 350 franchise outlets in Spain with a further 100 worldwide. A sign of its popularity is that even after the global economic downturn in 2008, 100 Montaditos continued to expand. On the original carta everything cost €1, although some options, like those on multigrain bread or with fillings like smoked salmon, are now €1.20 or €1.50. Drinks (draught beer, soft drinks, and a mix of red wine and lemonade called tinto de verano) are all in the €1-€2 range, with wine and 0.5l jarras (tankards) of beer priced at €1.50. You are in Spain, so Coca-Cola is more expensive than beer (€1.80) and coffee is €1. It is not a gourmet sandwich bar by any means, and neither does it pretend to be, but it is a very handy place for a cheap and tasty snack offering a massive amount of choice. You can pretty much have any sandwich you want (16 of the 100 are vegetarian, indicated with a green dot), and all are made to order and come with a handful of crisps. Most branches are open from late morning until late. First find your table (there is often air-conditioned seating inside if the terraza is packed) and consult the menu. Choose your sandwiches (there are also salads and other snack) and drinks, making a note of the numbers on the pad provided. You need to order at the counter. It can be a struggle to remember

42 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: 100 Montaditos what the Spanish for ‘One 24 and two 48s’ is (in case you are wondering it is ‘un número veinticuatro, y dos número cuarenta y ocho’ which would get you a tortilla, lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise sandwich and two chicken, green pepper and alloli sandwiches), so I would recommend assuming a pleading look and handing over the page from the order pad onto which you have written your order. They will ask your name and take your money, handing you your receipt. When your order is ready your name will be announced over loudspeaker — listen carefully, because unless your name happens to be Thomas or Anna, it will probably be pronounced in a decidedly castellano fashion. Go to the kitchen hatch and collect your food, remembering to take your receipt. If you get a seat outside, they may give you a pager that will beep, flash or vibrate when your order is ready. ESPECIALIDADES As noted above, the menú del día is not the ‘daily special’. The dishes of the day will be called sugerencias del chef — ‘suggestions of the chef’. Some places also advertise their especialidad(es) de la casa — what the restaurant is known for, and unlikely to change seasonally. ETIQUETTE Despite the apparent informality of Spanish dining (e.g. courses arriving in the ‘wrong’ order or being delivered all at once, the acceptability of sharing) and the fact that tapas are plainly finger-food, the Spaniards are curiously formal in their eating habits:

Cutlery If something can be eaten using cutlery, then it is. It is customary to be handed a dinky knife and fork to eat a tapa that you would expect simply to be popped into the mouth in one go. The same miniature cutlery accompanies a morning croissant or pastry. Soup, lentils, beans etc. are eaten with a large dessertspoon, whereas desserts of any size are eaten with a teaspoon. For some reason, fried eggs are always eaten with just a fork, though it is acceptable to use bread to help.

43 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Etiquette

Bread Bread is the third item of cutlery after a knife and fork. It is often used in place of a knife to move food onto a fork (though, oddly, it is never dipped in soup). Menús del día and even raciones always come with bread, and I sometimes wonder whether Spaniards would be able to eat at all if there were no bread on the table. It is not even very good bread much of the time (it can range from utterly delicious to slightly dry and powdery), but it is always there. The Spanish obsession with bread helps to explain their love of picos — tiny batons of dry bread like midget grissini which are consumed by the barrow-load in every Spanish bar… with everything. Even Chinese and Indian restaurants in Spain give you bread rolls. As in France, bread always goes on the table/tablecloth, never the plate. You will be charged for bread — though usually only a Euro or so. Often bread is part of the cubierto or cover charge, and whilst some Spaniards complain about what they see as creeping hidden charges, drinking and dining establishments in Spain have had a tough time of things over the last few years. Thousands of bars and restaurants have closed (though nowhere near as many as experts predicted, or feared) and in 2012 the youth unemployment rate in Spain tipped over 55%. Unlike in many other countries, employers cannot rely on low wages being topped up by service charges or tips.

Napkins Nothing odd about napkins you might think, but Spaniards never — ever — eat without them, even at home. If you watch Spaniards eating you will notice them wiping their mouths after practically every mouthful. Even at the bar, where the napkins are paper (servilletas de papel), they are used fastidiously then immediately scrunched up and

44 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Etiquette tossed on the floor. This means that when the floor of a bar is littered with discarded paper napkins (and prawn shells), it may be regarded as a sign of popularity and quality, rather than poor cleanliness front of house. There are many tales of upstart bars sending waiters along to more popular rivals to ‘steal’ the litter from the floor.

¡Que Aproveche! From the verb aprovechar — to take advantage of, to make the most of. This is what your waiter will say when he gives you your food. But unlike bon appétit this is no unctuous bit of waiter-ese but rather a widely used greeting. You’ll hear it whether you have ordered a slice of omelette or a rich dish of stuffed guinea fowl, and even the Colombian chico who serves you in McDonalds will wish you the same, without a hint of irony. You might also hear fellow diners saying it to you, and if you arrive to meet friends who are already eating, the correct greeting is ¡Que aproveche! (or ¡Buen provecho!) rather than buenos días.

Sobremesa — At the Table Spaniards just about manage to serve courses in order when it comes to the menú del día or top-end restaurants, otherwise it is anyone’s guess what order the food will arrive in. Generally, it comes when it is ready. This is a good reason to order tapas and raciones in stages, or you are likely to find that your lamp chops will arrive before the fried peppers you had intended to enjoy as a starter. When eating in courses at eateries with tablecloths, though, Spaniards wait for everyone to be served their first course before anyone starts eating. Main courses are eaten as they arrive, without waiting. At dessert, no one begins until all desserts have been served. After everyone has finished eating (after café, and over licores) comes the sobremesa (‘at the table’) — the period of at least 20 minutes (it can sometimes be hours) sitting at the table that Spaniards evidently need in order to come to terms with the fact that the meal really is over. Once the sobremesa is concluded, it will probably be time for tapas. Observing Spaniards eating and drinking at such a leisurely pace, and mindful of their love of the siesta (even though only 16% of Spaniards still get to take one) and putting off until mañana what does not need to be done today, one might conclude that it is something of a miracle that the Spanish economy functions at all. It says more, in fact, about the importance attached to social

45 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Etiquette eating and drinking in Spain. Productivity per hour is lower in Spain than in Germany but slightly higher than in the UK. Spaniards also work more hours per year than both Germans and the British. Most Spaniards aspire to ‘trabajar lo justo’ — work just enough to live. What matters is not amassing a huge fortune, but the ability to disfrutar de la vida (enjoy life).

The Embarrassment When sharing tapas (or more often raciones), the last slice of ham, piece of cheese, olive, or whatever, is known as la vergüenza (behr-gwen-thah) — ‘the embarrassment’ (whereas embarazada is the state of being pregnant). Looking around a bar, you may notice that the last portion is very often left to be cleared away, uneaten, everyone having been too polite even to ask ¿Alguien quiere la vergüenza? (‘Does anyone want the embarrassment?’)

Mixed Water Sit-down meals are always accompanied by water, and in traditional bars (in summer) you may also receive a glass of water with a tapa, despite the fact that you have just ordered a beer. Water with meals is almost always still (as in France, agua con gas is more of an apéritif) and you might be offered a choice: fría (cold) or del tiempo (‘of the season’, i.e. ambient temperature). Spaniards often ask for both so that each diner can mix according to taste. The noun agua is an oddity, by the way — it is a feminine noun (most nouns ending in -a, -d, -z, and -ión are feminine, while masculine nouns tend to end in -o, -e, -ma, or any consonant apart from -d or -z) which in the singular takes the masculine article el for reasons of euphony.

Tipping Although leaving a tip is becoming more common in Spain, especially in restaurants, it is still not common practice. Unlike in the UK and the USA where many of the people serving you will be students or young, part-time workers, most waiting and bar staff in Spain are full-time employees working in the service industry as a career and do not expect tips to top up their wages. You will probably notice how many barmen (and they are usually men) are middle aged. Spain has a minimum wage calculated at a full-time monthly salary, rather than an hourly rate. Having said that, both minimum and

46 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Etiquette average monthly income is considerably lower than in the UK, and lower than the EU average. Having a service charge added to your bill is unusual, except in some high end restaurants, although most customers will probably leave a tip in a restaurant (a ‘tablecloth restaurant’, that is). Even so, it will not be anything like the 10% (or is it now 12.5%?) that is customary in the UK. The American standard of 20% would be regarded as bizarre. Hence, the normal practice (when a tip is given at all) is to round up, or leave a couple of Euros. Tipping is rare in bars, although many customers will leave the ‘shrapnel’ of their change. Your change is always given to you on a small bakelite or metal saucer. Let us say that you ordered a coffee and a beer and your bill comes to €3.20, so you hand over a €5 note and your change is €1.80 given as €1/50¢/20¢/10¢. Most Spaniards would probably leave nothing, and those that do leave something are more likely to leave the 10¢ coin than the 20¢ coin. Leaving 30¢ (9.37%) would be considered too much (and you may see ‘tips’ being put into the till anyway) and leaving 50¢ or €1 just plain unhinged. The same goes for taxis. Rounding up to leave a bit of loose change is appreciated, but tips are not expected. LOCAL SPECIALITIES In Spain, some dishes are ubiquitous. There can hardly be a bar in the country that does not knock up a tortilla española every day, just as every bar has a jamón (cured leg ham) on the go, with others hanging above in readiness for the knife. The tapas listed below are likely to be found everywhere in Spain: croquetas (kro-ket-ass) — Crumbed, fried ovoids of flavoured béchamel – the main types are cheese, ham or cod. queso (kay-soh) — Cheese. Often manchego, a tasty ewe’s milk cheese from La Mancha, but there are many other varieties. The soft and blue varieties are mainly found in the north (where most of the dairy herds are), getting harder as one moves south. If you are a fan of acidic, blue cheese then do try Cabrales — a fantastically toothsome, gob-burner of a blue cheese. jamón (Ham-on) — Without doubt the finest ham in the world, possibly the finest single food-item in the world. Smell it, touch it, rub it on your lips and then taste. Garnet red flesh and rich, yellow fat, three years in the making. The truth is that even the cheap stuff is pretty good, but the very best is Jamón

47 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Local Specialities

Ibérico de Bellota (bellota means ‘acorn’, the main diet of the fattening pigs), often called pata negra (black foot). In a bog-standard bocadillo you will be given serrano, fed on a mix of cereals, but still free-range and pretty good. Jamón York, on the other hand, is cooked ham in the ‘English style’ — okay in a toasted sandwich, but otherwise pale and flabby. bacalao — (baka-la-o) Dried salt cod, and tastier than one might think. It is often found in croquetas, but as a dish on its own it might be an acquired taste. gambas — (gam-bass) The most common name by which prawns are known. Prepared in a variety of ways, one of the most popular is gambas al ajillo (sizzling in olive oil with garlic). mini hamburguesas (am-borg-ay-sas) — These sound faddish, but they are a popular tapa and are (when well-made) subtle and delicious. Expect a beautifully tender veal burger in a tiny soft bun, perhaps with confit onions and cheese. albóndigas (al-bondee-gas) — Small meatballs, usually made from pork and served in a tomato sauce. They take their name from the Arabic al-bunduq, meaning ‘hazelnut’. aceitunas (aTHay-toon-ass) — Olives. Mainly green, sometimes stuffed, but always fresher and juicier than anything available in the UK (even from Waitrose). boquerones (bokeh-roe-ness) — Fresh, white anchovies marinaded in wine vinegar and olive oil (anchoas are the dark, salted and cured anchovies we are more used to). calamares (calah-mar-ess) — Squid, of course, but often called rabas (and not served in rings) on tapas menus — like battered squid chips with masses of lemon and salt. Calamares del Campo are not squid, but battered onion rings. mejillones rellenos (meh-Hilyo-ness rel-yay-nos) — Stuffed mussels, taken from their shells, mixed with a piquant tomato sauce, then put back into the shell and gratinéed with béchamel and breadcrumbs. Sometimes called tigres because of the (slightly) spicy sauce.

48 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Local Specialities patatas bravas (pah-tah-tass brah-vass) — Fried potato served with a spicy tomato sauce (‘spicy’ is relative… nothing in Spain approaches curry-levels of heat). pimientos de Padrón (pim-yen-toss deh pad-ron) — Mild, green, thumb-sized chilli peppers, dusted with cornmeal and either quickly fried or grilled. Guidebooks like to tell you that one in every couple of dozen is tongue- scorchingly hot, but I have eaten hundreds over the years and never encountered a hot one, though it is true some are more peppery than others. Padrón is a small town near Santiago de Compostela, famous for growing these peppers. tortilla (tor-tee-ya) — Good old Spanish omelette: potatoes and onions cooked very slowly in oil as in a confit, before the addition of eggs. Sometimes ham or chorizo is added. paella (pah-ail-ya) — Not usually to be recommended outside Valéncia or a valenciano restaurant. Authentic paella should have beans, rabbit and snails (caracoles) but it more common to encounter seafood paella. Delicious when it is properly prepared, look around to see whether locals are ordering it. ensaladilla rusa (en-salla-deel-ya RR oo -sah) — ‘Little Russian Salad’. This embellished potato salad is very popular in Spain and always based on diced, boiled potatoes, vegetables and mayonnaise. The Spanish version often contains tuna, prawns or surimi (crab sticks). morcilla (mor- TH eel -ya) — Spanish black pudding of which there are hundreds of regional varieties. Most contain paprika and are more highly spiced than the English kind. In Andalucía, cumin, onions, rice or pinenuts are added. It is a popular sandwich filling. chorizo (cho- RR ee -tho) — A pork sausage flavoured with paprika. Like morcilla, there are hundreds of varieties. empanadillas (em-panna-deel-yas) — small, hot water crust pasties (meat, fish, vegetable, cheese). garbanzos con espinacas (gar-ban-THos kon ess-pi-nak-ass) — chickpeas stewed with spinach, garlic, spices and vinegar. This dish is often ignored by tourists because it sounds somewhat dull. It is not.

49 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Local Specialities huevos rotos (way-voss roh-toss) — literally ‘broken eggs’: a dish of fried potato and often one other ingredient (ham, sausage, morcilla, etc.) topped with a fried egg. It sounds naff, but in reality it is a surprisingly refined and delicious dish. A very good ‘beer sponge’. tortillitas de camarones (tor-teel-yee-tass deh kamar-oh-ness) — Everyone has a favourite tapa, and this is mine: halfway between a pancake and a fritter, these are made from a chickpea flour batter enriched with garlic, parsley and prawns, fried into crisp galettes. They are a speciality of Cádiz, but are popular throughout Andalucía. Some are made with finely diced prawns, but the real deal are made with the tiniest brown shrimp. Nothing accompanies a cold beer quite like tortillitas de camarones.

Andaluz Specialities Proximity to the sea does not especially increase the already fanatical national taste for seafood. The largest seafood and fish market in Europe (and in the world, after Japan) is in Madrid — the furthest city from the coast in all of Spain. Five of the eight provinces of Andalucía are coastal, and one of the other three, Sevilla, extends almost to the sea. Indeed, until the silting of the Guadalquivir river 17th century, the Port of Sevilla was a sea port (Magellan began his first circumnavigation here). Unsurprisingly, therefore, fish and seafood loom large in the andaluz diet. In the temperate north the cuisine is dominated by hearty stews, cured sausages (embutidos) and North Atlantic cod. The year-round availability of grass means that almost all of the milk and much of the cheese consumed in Spain comes from the north west. Refrigeration and efficient supply-lines means that all these products are available throughout Spain, but that does not make them traditional. In the north the land is used for pasture and the cultivation of maize and wheat. In the south it is given over to chickpeas, rice, olives and salad vegetables. Octopus is popular throughout Spain, but only in Galicia does it approach the status of a staple (even though most of the octopus consumed in Spain nowadays is caught around the Falkland Islands). There are four major influences on the gastronomic culture of Andalucía: the sea, the land, the climate and history. The sea determines the kinds of fish and seafood that are consumed. Anchovies and sardines are more widely consumed in Andalucía than cod (bacalao). The Gulf of Cádiz — basically a huge funnel between the Mediterranean/Alboran Sea and the Atlantic Ocean — is an

50 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Local Specialities incredibly rich source of fish and shellfish, including bluefin tuna and several kinds of prawn and clam. Another delicacy of the coastal region are the many varieties of cañadilla or sea-snail. I have never seen these on sale in British markets, but in Italy they are known as maurice and in France as burez and the look like giant, spiny whelks. These molluscs were known in antiquity and were called murex (μύαξ) by Aristotle. Indeed, it is likely that these creatures were what first attracted Phoenician adventurers to southern Spain as they were used in the manufacture of costly ‘Tyrian Purple’ dye. The land and climate is responsible for the shape of the andaluz diet too. The hills are planted with olives, to the extent that northern andaluz province of Jaén is practically a monoculture. The oak forests of the Sierra Morena (Huelva) and Sierra Nevada (Granada) are suited to the rearing of pigs for ham. Each pig needs one hectare of cork forest to develop the appropriate ration of meat to fat to produce a high quality product. With much of the land unsuited to traditional animal farming, game is more popular in Andalucía than in any other comunidad (autonomous community, or devolved region) of Spain. Wild boar, venison, rabbit, pigeon and partridge are all popular. Across the great meseta of central Spain, sheep predominate, meaning ewe’s milk cheeses and lamb dishes. In the more mountainous, scrubby south, one is more likely to encounter goat’s milk cheese and dishes made from kid. The low-lying plain of the Guadalquivir River around Sevilla is the centre of long-grain rice cultivation. Sevilla is 70 miles from the sea but is at sea level — and although its heyday was the seventeenth century (before the pre- eminence of Cádiz) it remains Spain’s only commercial river port, handling 4 million tonnes of cargo per year. Instead of cereals, the main farinaceous crop is of legumes, predominantly chickpeas. In the local speciality of pescaíto frito, the small pieces of fish are dredged in flour made from chickpeas or grass peas instead of wheat flour which creates a crisper coating. Although historians are divided, many think that the dish of fish and chips was introduced to Britain by Sephardic (viz. Spanish) Jews. The landscape influences, as it does everywhere else on earth, the varieties of wine produced by local grapes, with the grapes used to make sherry being cultivated in three distinct kinds of soil. Finally, the pre-reconquista history of Andalucía has shaped the cuisine in many ways. The obsession with pork, lard and shellfish may have partly come about as a conscious rejection of the food rules of the former occupying power (and the large Jewish minority), but former food customs survived in other ways.

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The first record of a Jewish community in Iberia comes in the Roman era (e.g. in the writings of Valerius Maximus and Josephus), but if Iberia is indeed the biblical Tarshish, then the link must be far older. Yoghurt is probably a Hebrew import, as are cucumbers and mint (and all the things that the Judeans remembered with sorrow in their Babylonian captivity). Culinary practices related to the observation of the Sabbath have also survived, such as the unleavened bread that forms part of the La Mancha version of gazpacho, and the ollas, or stews, slow-cooked in embers. These could be prepared ahead of the Sabbath, upon which work in the kitchen was forbidden. It was probably the Jews who introduced the customs of pickling (known in castellano as ‘escabeche’) as a way of preparing meat and fish that could not be cooked fresh on the Sabbath. As the food writer Claudia Roden (a Sephardic Jew born in Egypt) has observed, the cuisine of the Mediterranean is full of similarities and echoes thanks to its climate, geography and continual movement of people over centuries. It is perhaps impossible to know whether the Jews brought cumin to Iberia or whether the Arabs brought cinnamon, but they ultimately came from the same region of the world — the fertile crescent of the Middle East. The influence of Arabic is clear in the names of many food items in Spanish including arroz (rice), aceite (oil), aceituna (olive), albaricoque (apricot), azafrán (saffron), almendra (almond), etc. The olive and the almond might be considered the leitmotifs of Spanish cookery, and although olives were first introduced to the Iberian Peninsula by the Phoenicians, cultivation increased greatly after the Arabs brought their knowledge of irrigation techniques with them. Almonds, on the other hand, are an addition to the Spanish table for which the Moors can claim full responsibility. The quintessential Spanish soup is nowadays undoubtedly gazpacho, although it can only have been developed after the arrival of the tomato from the New World in 1521 (or perhaps 1493, depending upon whom you believe). Its origin is in a far more obviously Moorish dish known as ajo blanco — a chilled soup of almonds, garlic, and bread pureed with water, oil and vinegar. Moorish influence is seen in ingredients themselves — aubergines, artichokes, carrots, dates, figs, citrus fruits — but also in spices and flavourings — cinnamon, cumin, anise, nutmeg, mint, and coriander — as well as their manner of combination. It was from the Arabs that Spaniards discovered the

52 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Local Specialities pleasures of ‘sweet and savoury’. The Arab influence is also seen, counterintuitively enough, in the distillation of alcohol; a technique developed in ninth century Iraq. Although alcohol was haram if consumed as a beverage, it was licit to use it medicinally or as a perfume. Non-Muslims, unsurprisingly, turned the technology over to the production of a primitive orujo: a grappa-like spirit. Honey predated the arrival of the Moors by many centuries. Cave paintings discovered near Valencia show people foraging for honey and have been dated to around 6000BC. What the Moors did bring, however, was not just a love of honey, but a honey substitute: sugar cane, from which was (and still is) made a kind of light molasses known as miel de caña. The famous sweet tooth of the Arabs extended to ‘savoury’ dishes, especially involving dried fruits like apricots, raisins, dates and various citrus fruits. Spain is never going to become known for the variety of its patisserie, however delicious it might be. There are two traditions — an imported, French tradition of puff pastry, cream and custard that the Borbón monarchs introduced it in the 18th century; and an older, simpler tradition of biscuits and sweetmeats. This latter tradition is the one most influenced, and partially created, by the sweet- loving Moors. One Arab contribution to confectionary that is beyond doubt is mazapán, or marzipan. The etymology of mazapán far from certain, with a wealth of likely candidates in Latin, Greek and Arabic. There are two historical trajectories of marzipan — the northern European line (including the UK) which came via the Ottoman Empire, and the southern European line, which came from the Levant via North Africa. As well as mazapán it is not hard to discern the Arab origins of turrón (nougat), which is clearly related to the halwa of the contemporary Middle East. It is more difficult to be certain about the origins of other sweets and biscuits because following the reconquista their names were vigorously ‘de- Islamicised’. A confection popular throughout Spain are yemas de Santa Teresa, or ‘yolks of St Teresa’, made from egg yolks and sugar. The name could hardly be more Christian, and yet the technique suggests an Arab influence — a candy made from eggs, sugar syrup, lemon and cinnamon. Likewise, torrijas or slices of pain perdu are closely associated with Lent and Holy Week, and ‘french toast’ is a common snack in many cultures. Yet the manner of its preparation and the ingredients once again hint at a Moorish origin: milk, wine, honey, dried fruit,

53 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Local Specialities and spices such as cinnamon (though wine is obviously a later elaboration). It is what has been known in the Middle East for centuries as Om Ali. Spanish rice pudding is still eaten in the Moorish fashion — chilled, cinnamon spiced and jewelled with dried fruits and nuts. The curious but delicious dessert of leche frita (fried milk — made from making a fresh curd cheese flavoured with lemon and spices and then frying it in crisp fritters) is not all that different to Arab kanafeh. The biscuits of traditional Spanish patisserie are not rich and buttery like those found further north, but crumbly and almost powdery of the sort you might eat in the souks of Cairo. Most contain almonds and are flavoured with lemon, rosewater, pistachio, anise or cinnamon. The only change after the reconquista was that the baking fat was changed from olive oil to pork lard, for nakedly ideological reasons! UNDERSTANDING CARTAS The days of phrase books and dictionaries are over, thanks to the smartphone and cheaper roaming charges. Download the Google Translate app for your iOS or Android phone and use it to check translations of items on cartas and menús in Spanish. If you have a contract that means paying through the nose for data, then try to connect to WiFi. There is some free coverage in most urban areas and many bars and restaurants are now connected. You will probably need to ask the barman or waiter for the password — la clave del WiFi (lah kla-bay del wee-fee). Almost all of the bars and restaurants frequented by tourists should be able to give you a carta in English: ¿Tiene una carta en inglés? (tyenay una kartah en inglayss?). The following is a list, by no means exhaustive, of typical andaluz dishes (if it is associated with a particular province, this is indicated, though all are found throughout Andalucía), some of which will probably not be in any phrase book and would probably flummox a translator app:

Entrantes, Sopas y Cocidos (Starters, Soups And Stews) Aceitunas aliñás — Olives marinated with bitter orange, red pepper, fennel, thyme, oregano

54 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Understanding cartas

Porra antequerana (Málaga) — A version of salmorejo (v.i.) from Antequera in Málaga Province Ajo harina (Jaén) — a stew of cod and potatoes in a sauce of tomatoes, peppers, paprika, cumin Ajoblanco (Granada y Málaga) — the base of gazpacho, a chilled soup of garlic and almonds Gachas — a porridge of oats or other cereals. Garbanzos con bacalao — chickpeas stewed with salt cod Gazpacho — a chilled soup of tomatoes, peppers, cucumber, garlic and sherry vinegar Gazpachuelo (Málaga) — very different to gazpacho! A malagueña bouillabaisse thickened with mayonnaise. Habas con calzones — runner beans with ham (lit. ‘beans in knickers’) Habas fritas con jamón (Granada) — haricot beans cooked with ham Migas (Córdoba, Granada, Málaga, y Almería) — breadcrumbs fried with garlic and served with anything you can imagine — sausage, ham, egg, fish, shellfish, grapes, cheese, etc. Migas de harina (Granada) — a thick wheat porridge with garlic Puchero andaluz — a rich stew (chicken, beef, lamb, pork, etc.) with potatoes, chickpeas and vegetables Remojón / Picadillo de naranjas (Málaga) — orange salad, often with onions, olives, cod, etc. Salmorejo (Córdoba) — a thicker version of gazpacho, more like a sauce than a soup and often used as such Abajao (Cádiz) — asparagus stir-fried with onions, tomato and garlic and served with eggs

Verduras (Vegetables) Alboronía (western Andalucía) — stewed aubergines with paprika and tomatoes

55 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Understanding cartas

Alcauciles rellenos (Cádiz, Sevilla) — stuffed artichokes Andrajos (Jaén, Almería, Granada) — tomato, pepper, garlic stew with dumpling strips Piriñaca (Cádiz) — this is basically unblended gazpacho, more like a salad than a soup

Carnes (Meat) Flamenquín (Córdoba) — a slice of ham or pork rolled around cheese, crumbed and fried Huevos a la flamenca — eggs cooked in ratatouille Plato de los montes (Málaga) — pork loin in paprika flavoured lard, served with fried potato, onions, peppers, black pudding, etc. Pringá — it comes in different forms depending on which meat was used, but this is what we would called ‘pulled’ in English; slow cooked and tender, almost rillettes

Pescados (Fish) Atún encebollado (Cádiz) — tuna stewed with tomatoes and onions Fideos con caballa (Cádiz) — noodles with mackerel Espeto de sardinas (Málaga) — a half dozen sardines grilled over wood/coals on a skewer Erizos de mar (Cádiz) — sea urchins (the orange roes are eaten raw with lemon juice) Ortiguillas (Cádiz) — sea anemones (either fried or made into soup) Papas con chocos — potatoes with cuttlefish Garbanzos con chocos (Cádiz) — chickpeas with cuttlefish Pescado adobado / bienmesabe — fish which has been marinated in vinegar, bay, cumin, paprika and garlic before cooking. NB. Bienmesabe just means ‘it tastes good’ and is also the name of the dessert!

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Pescaíto frito — fried fish, first dusted in chickpea or pea grass flour. The word is actually pescadíto but because andaluzes are famous for swallowing their consonants, the ‘d’ has been dropped over time. Soldaditos de Pavía — ‘soldiers of Pavia’; strips of battered cod with grilled red pepper Trucha de Riofrio — freshwater trout Urta a la roteña (Cádiz) — red-banded sea bream (a rock fish) from the town of Rota, cooked with tomatoes

Postres y Dulces (Puddings And Sweets) Poleá (Cádiz) — a sweet variety of porridge Tocino de cielo — ‘heavenly lard’; a tooth-shatteringly sweet confection of caramelised egg yolks Pestiños — crumbly honey wafers a little like brandy snaps Tortas de aceite — thin, crisp, round wafers made with flour, olive oil, aniseed and sesame Alfajores — pastries made from a paste of almonds, nuts and honey Pan de Cádiz — a kind of turrón made in Cádiz; made from sweet potato and eggs and filled with mazapán and crystallised fruits or jam Candié (Jerez de la Frontera, Cádiz) — another sugar and egg yolk confection, flavoured with sweet wine. Hojaldrina — a crumbly cookie Pastel cordobés (Córdoba) — a puff pastry cake filled with pumpkin, cider and sometimes ham(!) Turrolate (Córdoba) — a festive kind of turrón made from cocoa and almonds or peanuts Granizado de almendra (Málaga) — a frozen dessert made from almonds, sugar and cinnamon Pan de higo — dried figs pressed into a cake and eaten with cheese

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Torta loca (Málaga) — ‘mad cake’; a puff pastry cake with orange cream and cherries Yemas del Tajo (Málaga) — the version of yemas de santa teresa made by nuns in Ronda Mostachón (Sevilla) — a cream covered meringue, usually topped with fruit Entornao (Sevilla) — a cake flavoured with paprika and sesame Torta inglesa (Sevilla) — ‘English cake’ (sic) made from puff pastry and filled with pumpkin Yemas de San Leandro (Sevilla) — another local version of yemas de Santa Teresa Bizcochos marcheneros (Sevilla) — plain macaroons BREAKFASTS AND MEALTIMES Andalucía is where the breakfast (desayuno) now eaten throughout Spain originated and it consists of toasted bread (tostada), with olive oil (or for more traditional andaluzes, paprika flavoured lard) topped with crushed tomato and salt. The bread typically used is mollete antequerano, an oval shaped roll from Antequera with the consistency of an English muffin (the dough is made with milk rather than water). In most bars it is possible to order your tostada with cheese, ham, chorizo, pâté (foie) or jam (mermelada) and this ‘breakfast’ is usually served until lunch so it can make a reasonable midday snack if you cannot manage to hang on until the Spanish ‘lunchtime’ of 2pm or so. You will probably have heard of churros — deep-fried tubular doughnuts to be dipped into hot chocolate. These are popular throughout Spain both for breakfast and elevenses and for merienda (afternoon tea), as well as a handy way to soak up the booze at 5am after a night clubbing. They are more commonly eaten with a cup of café con leche (a latte) than with the thick, sweet chocolate enjoyed in Madrid. They also known by a different name. In the rest

58 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Breakfasts and Mealtimes of Spain they are called churros, which is the sound supposedly made by the batter hitting the oil, but in much of Andalucía they are called tejeringos (teh- Heh-Rin-goss, lit. ‘syringes’). Breakfast tends not to be particularly early. Most Spaniards will have an espresso (i.e. café solo) and a small piece of cake at home, then something more substantial (e.g. tostada) mid-morning. The main meal of the day is lunch, which begins late by UK standards (around 2pm), and can easily last a couple of hours. Desayuno Breakfast Any time before noon Hora del vermú Aperitifs 1300–1400 — to ‘go for a vermouth’ means to go for any pre-lunch drink (and tapitas) Comida Lunch 1400-1530 — the main meal of the day.

Almuerzo A more refined word for lunch (comida just means ‘eating’) Sobremesa “At table” The period spent chatting around the table after lunch. An integral part of lunch

Siesta Nap From ‘sexta’ (i.e. the sixth hour). Now declining in popularity, though many smaller shops will close in the afternoon.

Merienda Tea ‘Merienda’ means any light meal and is still used to refer to coffee and a slice of cake in the late afternoon. Spaniards now tend to use ‘brunch’ to refer to the morning merienda. Paseo Stroll The main paseo is after the siesta, the other is before dinner Tapeo Pre-dinner ‘Tapear’ means ‘to go for tapas’. From around 7pm — drinks and snacks, often involving visiting a number of establishments.

59 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Breakfasts and Mealtimes

Cena Dinner Apart from on special occasions and in smart restaurants, ‘dinner’ is a light meal. If taken outside the home it might be just tapas or a couple of raciones. At home, a sandwich and a piece of fruit might suffice.

15 USEFUL PHRASES Hi! / Hello! ¡Hola! oh-la Excuse me / Sorry Disculpe diss-kool-peh Yes / No Sí / No see / noh Do you have … ? Tiene … ? tyen-neh … ? Does it contain … ? Contiene … ? kon-tyen-neh … ? I’m allergic to … Soy alérgico a … (m) soy al-air-Heeko ah … Soy alérgica a … (f) soy al-air-Heeka ah … Without … Sin … sin... Do you have a menu (in English)? Tiene una carta (en inglés)? tyen-neh oo-na kar-ta (enn een-gless)? How much does it cost? ¿Cuánto cuesta? kwan-toh kwess-tah? The bill, please. La cuenta, por favor. la kwen-tah, poR fav- o RR Thank you (very much) (Muchas) Gracias. (moo-chass) g R a TH -yass. It’s nothing. / You’re welcome. De nada. day nah-dah

60 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Breakfasts and Mealtimes

Where is … ? Dónde está … ? donn-deh ess-stah … ? Goodbye Adiós add-yoss I don’t know. No sé. noh seh

DRINKS

Café Visitors to Spain either love or hate the coffee. The two main kinds produced are natural and mezcla (mixed), the latter being the most widely consumed of the two. Mezcla blends are a result of the ‘torrefacto’ process which means that the raw beans are sprayed with a fine mist of sugar before roasting. The glazed beans are then roasted where the sugar is burnt off leaving a dark roasted bean with a hint of caramel to create a deep rich coffee without bitterness. These torrefacto beans are blended with untreated beans in different ratios, ranging from mostly natural with a hint of torrefacto, half-and-half, right up to 100% torrefacto. Most bars favour a mezcla. The torrefacto process was invented during the coffee shortages of the Civil War as a method of preservation, and Spaniards developed a taste for it. If you don’t like the caramelised flavour of torrefacto, either look for ‘natural’ (most bars advertise the kind of coffee they use) or drink coffee in the more modern coffee shops (which tend not to use torrefacto blends), or even Starbucks, where you can guarantee your coffee will taste of nothing at all. The most common coffee orders are: café solo — an espresso shot; if you ask simply for ‘un café’ this is what you will get. café con leche — espresso topped up with milk, but stronger than an Italian latte. You may be asked whether you want cold (fría) or hot (caliente) milk café Americano — an espresso shot diluted with hot water (can also be con leche) café cortado — espresso with a dash of milk

61 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Drinks

Café can also be carajillo (with brandy or another spirit, especially anise), bombon (with condensed milk) or con hielo (iced — you will be given a hot espresso and a glass of ice, and milk if you ask for it). There are actually dozens of ways of ordering coffee in Spain (hot milk, cold milk, in a cup, in a glass, ratio of milk to coffee, etc.).

Cerveza Though one would never guess, given the huge popularity of beer in Spain, it is a relatively recent arrival, with no major breweries dating back more than a hundred years or so. Beer generally means blonde beer or lager and most bars have only one kind. A small glass (approx. 200ml) is a caña /kan-yah/, a highball glass (approx. 300ml) is a tubo /too-boh/ or doble /do-blay/, and the largest regular size (approx. 500ml) is a jarra / H a -RRah/. In warm weather, Spaniards drink cañas (the smallest measure) to ensure that the beer remains cold (and to maximise the tapas where they are handed out free). Another popular way of consuming beer is hot weather is as una clara (a shandy), a mixture of beer and a not-too-sweet kind of lemonade known as gaseosa. The market leader, San Miguel (Madrid) is found all over Spain, as is Mahou (also brewed by San Miguel and pronounced like [Chairman] Mao). But the number two slot (number ten in Europe) is occupied by the Sevilla beer Cruzcampo. It is a thirst-quenching, inoffensive, but ultimately rather boring beer, though its premium lines — for example, Cruzcampo Gran Reserva — are worth trying. The current owner of Cruzcampo is Heineken, whose Amstel brand is becoming more popular in Spain with each passing year. As far as national brands go, you will find a few bars which serve Estrella Damm, from Barcelona. The other andaluz beers are Alhambra, brewed in Granada (owned by San Miguel-Mahou), and Victoria, brewed in Málaga and named after the city’s

62 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Drinks patron saint — Our Lady of The Victories. In the last decade, ‘craft beer’ has surged in popularity, but not to the extent that it is available on draft (apart from in a few micro-brewery taps). Names to look out for are Taifa Toast (Sevilla — a pale ale), Son (Córdoba — a yeasty, acidic beer designed to accompany fish), Tierra de Frontera (Jaén — a dark beer on the lees), Mammooth (Granada — various styles, quite complex), Desiderata (Sevilla — amber and fruity), and La Axarca (Málaga — tropically fruity).

Agua If you ask for un agua in a bar you will be given mineral water from a bottle. Sparkling water is agua con gas. If you prefer tap water, then order un vaso de agua (a glass of water). If a waiter asks you if you want water and you would like tap water, then tell him, del grifo /del greefoh/. Sometimes it seems as if every shop in Spain sells chilled water in the summer time — look out for signs advertising agua fría or bebidas frías. A 500ml bottle should be €1 or less, and a litre bottle €1-€2. WINE

History Spain has a greater area under vine than any other country (1.2m hectares). It has been the third largest producer for decades, and recently edged into second place over the last decade. In 2014, the figures were as follows (in litres):

Italy 4,796,900 Spain 4,607,850 France 4,293,466 United States 3,300,000

Despite the domestic popularity of wine, Spain is only the fifth largest consumer at 36 litres per capita per annum. Spain is now the world’s biggest exporter of wine (by volume), selling 2.3bn litres (around 20% of world volume traded). The most telling statistic is how much (or how little) wine Spain imports. While Germany and the UK both import some 1.4bn litres of wine annually, and France 773m litres, Spain does not even make the FAO league

63 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Wine table of the world’s top twenty importers, so is behind Brazil (in 20th position at 92m litres). Viticulture has been practised in Spain for what seems like forever, and that is not much of an exaggeration. There is evidence to prove that vines were planted in the Peninsula so far back as the Tertiary period (which ended 2.6 million years ago), long before the Phoenicians founded Cadiz and established it as a trading post, around 1100BC. It is thought that grapes for wine were first grown in the Málaga Province in the sixth century BC, although the oldest archaeological evidence of winemaking is from the late second century — a (Roman) fermentation tank uncovered in the town of Cártama, about 25 miles from the city of Málaga. The Carthaginians improved the wine making techniques of the Phoenicians when they arrived in the Peninsula, but the real wine history and culture began after the Romans won the Punic Wars against the Carthaginians and the Peninsula became part of the Roman Empire, who named it Hispania. The time Hispania spent under the Roman rule was the first golden age of Spanish wine. Exports increased year on year, and Iberian wine was highly sought after throughout the empire. The two main production areas were Tarraconensis near Barcelona in the north and Bætica in the south (modern Tarragona and Andalucía). After the decline of the Roman Empire came the beer-drinking Visigoths, and there is little evidence of viticulture during this period. Things picked up again, ironically enough, when the Muslims conquered the peninsula. Even though the Sharia forbids drinking any kind of alcohol, wine culture was somewhat revived in the Peninsula under Muslim rule, due to two coincidental factors. The Moors were very fond of grapes — eaten both fresh and as raisins; and they also introduced the science of distillation. Distillation was almost certainly first practiced in the Gandhara civilisation of the Indus Valley, and was known to the Greeks (in Byzantine Egypt), but in the form that the Moors introduced it, it was come from 9th century Iraq. The Moorish culture of Spain oscillated between tolerant cosmopolitanism and repressive fundamentalism, and in the more liberal periods, wealthy Muslims would consume alcohol for ‘medicinal’ purposes. The Middle Ages brought the Benedictines and other monastic orders, and they played a very important role in re-establishing and promoting viticulture. In

64 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Wine fact, many of the current DOs had their origin around this time. Villages would grow up around a monastery and winemaking would be embedded in the local economy. One of the oldest DOs — Priorat — dates from the late 12th century, when the monks from the Carthusian Monastery of Scala Dei, founded in 1194, reintroduced the art of viticulture to the area. The prior of Scala Dei ruled as a feudal lord over seven villages in the area, which gave rise to the name Priorat. The monks tended the vineyards for centuries until 1835 when they were expropriated by the state, and distributed to smallholders. The monks also brought new types of vine and new techniques from France and Italy. The Reconquest also reopened the wine export trade and the Atlantic Port of Bilbao positioned itself at the head of it as far as European trade was concerned. Trade with the New World was conducted through the Port of Cadiz. Many of the wines sold at this time went to the English markets, where they were as highly valued as French wines. Sherry, ‘Sack’ and Málaga wines were all enormously popular in Britain, as any survey of the drinking habits of the characters of Shakespeare’s plays will show. The discovery of the New World by Christopher Columbus opened up further opportunities for export, and the Spanish conquistadors took Spanish vines with them in order to start wine production in the new Spanish colonies. These transplanted Spanish vines would later become crucial to the effort to repopulate Spanish vineyards after various epidemics of blight and disease. In the 16th century Spanish wines were the most famous and most exported wines anywhere in the world. Also, wine production in the colonies was so common that it started to affect Spanish exports, which is why Philip III banned the expansion of vineyards in Chile, a decree that was mostly ignored. The 15th and 16th centuries saw a huge rise in the popularity of Spanish wines, which were being produced in almost every area of the Iberian Peninsula. The Canaries had just been conquered and wine production there had also started to become popular, mainly thanks to the islands strategic location in terms of trade and climate. Canary wines, as they were called, made a name for themselves in every reign around the world and in wine history for their excellent quality. Their downfall started with the Cromwell’s protectionist Navigation Acts (1660-1661) and the creation of the ‘Canary Company’ in 1665, through which the English (virtually a monopsony) sold Canary wines at a lower cost, successfully establishing a monopoly as well.

65 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Wine

Spain’s decline from its Golden Age saw its wine trade overtaken by suppliers in the rest of Europe. A second blow was the Industrial Revolution which led to advances in the machinery of wine-making (presses, mash-tuns, etc.) and in transportation, not least the railways. Spain came late to industrialisation and saw a precipitous decline in its wine exports. There was a brief respite when the phylloxera destroyed most of the European vineyards during the 19th century. It was a dire time for Europe, and Spain was its salvation. Many French vineyards were replanted with Spanish vine stocks. The plague had not reached the Spanish vineyards, so there was plenty of wine to export. During this time, Spanish wines reached every corner of Europe, and underwent something of a renaissance. Some French wine makers crossed the Pyrenees and arrived in the north of Spain, bringing with them new tools, methods and, of course, varieties. The north of Spain, specially Navarre and the Basque Country, benefited in particular and their wine tradition became much richer during this time than the rest of Spain's, because they had access to the great French wine making culture. It was during this period that North Eastern Spain turned its hand to cava (sparkling white wine) — thanks to damage to red wine grape varieties and learning the méthode champenoise from France. However, the protection offered by the Pyrenees did not last long, and the phylloxera aphid arrived in Spain later that century. Due to the country's geography, the plague took longer to spread, so when things started to look really dire (the plague reached La Rioja in 1901) the cure had already been discovered. It consisted in grafting tougher vines, the ones that could resist the bug, to weaker vines, to create a hybrid that could stand against the epidemic. This saved the Spanish vineyards, and the first designation of origin was established in La Rioja in 1926. The wine making industry would still go through more difficulties before achieving its modern day prestige. World War I paralysed the European trade market, which made exporting almost impossible. Then the Spanish Civil War froze the country, and while the different sides were fighting each other the vines were left unattended, like those in Madrid, and some of them were even torn up to plant wheat and other cereals to feed a starving population. But even when the war was over, the tragedies did not end: The II World War immobilized the European market again and made it impossible for the industry to take off until the 1950s. It was at this time that some of the

66 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Wine vineyards were replanted and the wine tradition began to be restored in some parts of Spain. The 1950s saw the revival of the wine tradition in Spain and with the 1960s came the international rediscovery of Jerez and Rioja; but the real resurgence came only after the death of Franco in 1975 and the transition to democracy. Spain had never been a bastion of the Free Market, aside from local exceptions like the mercantile centres of Barcelona, Bilbao, and Málaga. Even when Sevilla was awash with gold and Spain was the richest, most powerful nation on earth, the Crown was firmly in control of every detail of commerce. The State eventually replaced the Crown, but remained largely protectionist and stultifyingly bureaucratic. Franco toyed with neoliberalism when advised by economists associated with Opus Dei, but could never full embrace the creed of economic liberalism because he realised that it would threaten his political power. State capitalism is not the Free Market. But as Spain’s economic outlook improved during the last decades of Franco, the growing middle classes (and increasing numbers of tourists) led to a mini- revival of wine-making. Things really took off, however, when Spain joined the then EEC in 1986. This brought economic aid to the Spanish wine sector, but far more importantly it opened up new markets. The advent of the Single Market for goods in 1993 signalled the beginning of a new phase for Spanish wine exports, coinciding with the decade-long boom under Prime Minister José María Aznar (1996-2004). Long-overdue labour market liberalisation and a programme of deregulation helped make the Spanish economy one of the fastest growing and dynamic in Europe (admittedly from a very low base). The 1990s gave way to the acceptance in the use of international varieties of grapes like the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, and the ban on watering (which had been imposed during a drought period) was lifted in 1996. This meant new places to plant, more grape varieties and more profitable ways of production. Spain joined the Eurozone in 1999 and for a while, the economic miracle continued, carrying along wine production with it. Until the mid-1980s a great deal of the wine produced in Spain was bound for the domestic market, sold in polypins and decanted into reusable bottles in grocery stores. Production values improved, often due to the input of winemakers from France, Italy and the New World, and once again Spanish wines regained a reputation for

67 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Wine quality. Also, thanks to devaluations of the Peseta in the 1990s, they were highly competitive. Once the economic crisis of 2008 hit, however, the instrument of devaluation was not longer available. Even so, along with tourism, fruit and vegetable production, clothing (Zara, Mango) and to some extent automotive manufacturing, wine production is one of the sectors that has managed to weather the recent storms reasonably well. Spain still produces a fair amount of rough plonk, but unless you buy your wine from a polythene cube or in a Tetrapak® you should be able to avoid it. Because of the relatively recent revival of Spanish winemaking there are few quasi- mythical grand cru wines able to command exorbitant prices.

Spanish VAT (IVA) is similar to the UK rate at 21%, but alcohol duty is far lower. Duty on a pint of beer (roughly equivalent to three ‘cañas’) is about 4p, compared to 54p in the UK. Duty on a measure of spirits is 12p rather than 48p in the UK. On wine, there is no duty levied at all, compared to almost £3 per 75cl bottle in the UK. On-sales mark-up tends to be around 100% in Spain, as opposed to 200% in the UK. In other words, a bottle of wine in a Spanish restaurant which costs you €21 would have a cost price of €10.50. 21% of that (€1.82) is IVA which means that the actual cost of the wine is €8.68. A €21 (£18.20) bottle of wine in the UK restaurant, by contrast, might have a cost

68 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Wine price of, say, £6.50. After VAT at 20%, (£1.08) that leaves £5.42, of which £2.97 is duty. Thus, the actual cost of your wine is £2.45 — less than a third of what the Spanish wine is ‘worth’.

Varieties and Regions Sherry There are sixteen named Vino de la Tierra (equivalent to Vins de Pays) wine producing regions in Andalucía, and eight Denominación de Origen Protegido (DOP) regions. Of the latter, the best known is undoubtedly that of Jerez-Xérès- Sherry, formed of a triangle of towns (Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María, and Sanlúcar de Barrameda) from grapes grown in soil that is arid and chalky but which has excellent water retention. The unique soil is actually three kinds of soil, already noted in the Roman era (Lucius Junius Columella [fl. 60 AD] wrote of cretosi, sabulosi and palustres) for their extraordinary properties. It comes as a surprise to many visitors to Spain to discover that the majority of sherry made and consumed is dry. It is basically an aged and slightly fortified white wine. Within the dry sherry category, there are two major styles: those that are biologically aged (under a layer of flor [yeast] — Fino and Manzanilla) and those that are oxidatively aged (in absence of flor — Oloroso). Two intermediate styles exist (Amontillado and Palo Cortado), and they start as a biologically aged wine but loose their layer of flor at a certain point and continue their maturation in the oxidative way. All of these wines are made from the Palomino grape. When it comes to sweet sherry, the most important difference is the fact that it can be naturally sweet or ‘artificially sweetened’ by blending dry styles of sherry with sweet wines or grape syrup. Naturally sweet sherry is called Vino dulce natural in Spanish. It can be produced from Pedro Ximénez (PX) or Moscatel grapes that are harvested late and usually dried in the sun before being pressed. A blended sweet sherry, on the other hand, is called Vino generoso de Licor – and all types start from a base of dry Palomino wines, to which PX or Moscatel is added, or else arrope, a syrup made of grape juice that is cooked and highly concentrated. The pale, dry sherries called Fino and Manzanilla are mainly drunk as apéritifs, but also pair well with seafood, salads and spicy dishes. Manzanilla literally

69 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Wine means chamomile and is made in only one of the Sherry towns — Sanlúcar de Barrameda (which has its own DOP) where proximity to the sea allows a slightly different flor to develop leading to a saltier, fresher palate. Amontillado (lit. in the style of Montilla) is an oxidised and mature Fino, brandy- coloured and with nutty aromas, tobacco, aromatic herbs and often ethereal, polished notes of oak. It is difficult for British people to drink because it is used in sweet blends, so when we taste the pure, dry, complex version in Spain we tend to think about trifle and assume it is sweet. It is not — your tastebuds are ticking you. It pairs well with white meat, beef-based soups, medium-strength cheeses and pâtés. Oloroso (‘fragrant’) is aged like an Amontillado but it begins with a stronger must than do Finos and Amontillados, often involving two pressings. Oloroso is similar in colour to Amontillado and shows nutty aromas (especially walnuts), combined with polished/balsamic notes, subtle dried fruits, toasted hints, tobacco and autumn aromas. There are noticeable spicy notes in older examples. It often also meaty notes, truffle and leather. It pairs perfectly with dark meat and game and mature cheeses. Palo Cortado (‘cut stick’) is only made by accident — it begins life as a Fino but for some reason the flor dies back and it begins to oxidise. The name comes from the vertical line chalked on a Fino barrel (the ‘stick’) — when the flor dies, the line is intersected with a diagonal chalk mark and the ‘stick’ is ‘cut’. It should have the aromatic refinement of Amontillado combined with the structure and body of an Oloroso. In short: Amontillado on the nose, Oloroso in the mouth. Compared to an Amontillado, it will have spent less time under flor (traditionally up to three years, but in fact modern Palo Cortado rarely ages under flor). It pairs perfectly with cured meats, soft blue cheese, foie gras and nuts.

Condado de Huelva The wines of this south western-most DOC (1963) are broadly made in the same styles as Sherry, though from different grape varieties. It was almost certainly wines from Huelva that the first Old World wines to be exported to the New World, on the voyage of 1502. An unusual product of the Huelva region is vino naranja (orange wine) — an aged (10 years old) sweet Oloroso further macerated with bitter orange peel for 2 years. It is drunk as a dessert wine or digestif.

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Montilla-Moriles This is a region south of Córdoba producing sherry analogues, though it would not be fair to say that they are simply copying the product of Jerez. Amontillado means ‘in the style of Montilla’, so Jerez copied Montilla, at least with regard to that variety. Rarely found outside Spain (or outside Andalucía), the different terroir and grape varieties (Pedro Ximénez, Moscatel, Airén, Baladí-Verdejo and Montepila) mean subtle differences. Like Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, Montilla also produces vinegar and brandy.

Tinto, Blanco, Rosado Though sherry and dessert wines are what the region is famous for, plenty of ‘normal’ wine is produced in Andalucía, too. The DOC of Granada produces red, white and sparkling wines from a range of grape varieties — all the usual suspects (Garnacha, Tempranillo, Sauvignon Blanc, Palomino) plus a few interesting local ones like Vigiriega. The Lebrija DOC in the Province of Sevilla produces sweet wines, but also reds (mainly Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon) and whites (Moscatel de Alejandría, Vidueño).

DOP Regions

71 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Wine

Vinos de la Tierra Regions

Villaviciosa de Córdoba Torreperogil Bailén Sierra Norte Norte de Sevilla Córdoba Sierra Sur de de Norte Almería Jaén de Granada Sierras de Los Las Estancias y Palacios Los Filabres Desierto de Almería

Suroeste Ribera del de Granada Andarax Cádiz Laujar - Alpujarra Contraviesa - Alpujarra

All sixteen Vinos de la Tierra regions and three of the DOC regions make wines in non-sherry styles as follows: N.B. Tintos (red), Rosados (rosé), Blancos (white), Espumosos (sparkling) Generosos (sweet/dessert):

Denominación de Origen Tipos de Variedades principales: Vino

Granada (Granada, 2009) T | R | B | (T/R) Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Cab- E Sauv, Romé

(B) Vijiriego, Sauv-blanc, Chardonnay

(E) Vijiriego, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Torrontes

Lebrija (Sevilla, 2010) T | B | G (T) Cab-Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo, Tintilla de Rota

(B/G) Moscatel de Alejandría, Palomino, Vidueño

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Sierras de Málaga T | R | B (T/R) Romé, Cab-Sauvignon, Merlot, (Málaga, 2001) Syrah, Tempranillo

(B) PX, Moscatel, Chardonnay, Macabeo, Sauv-Blanc

Vino de la Tierra

Altiplano de Sierra T | R | B (T) Garnacha Tinta, Monastrell, Cab Nevada (Granada, 2005) Franc

(B) Baladí verdejo, Airén, Torrontés

Bailén (Jaén, 2004) T | R | B (T) Molinera, Tempranillo, Cab-Sauv.

(R) Molinera, Tempranillo

(B) Molinera, Pedro Ximénez

Cádiz (Cádiz, 2005) T | B (T) Syrah, Monastrell, Merlot, Tintilla de Rota

(B) Garrido, Palomino, Chardonnay, Moscatel, Mantía

Córdoba (Córdoba, 2004) T | R Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cab-Sauv.

Cumbres de Guadalfeo T | R | B (T/R) Garnacha Tinta, Cab-Franc, Pinot (Granada, 2004) Noir

(B) Jaén blanco, Montúa, Perruno, Vijiriego

Desierto de Almería T | B (T) Garnacha Tinta, Monastrell, Syrah (Almería, 2003) (B) Chardonnay, Moscatel, Macabeo

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Laderas del Genil T | R | B (T/R) Garnacha Tinta, Pinot Noir, Syrah (Granada, 2003) (B) Vijiriego, PX, Chardonnay, Viognier, Verdejo, Gewürztraminer, Riesling

Laujar-Alpujarra T | R | B (T) Garnacha Tinta, Monastrell, Syrah, (Almería, 2004) (B) Jaén Blanco, Macabeo, Vijiriego, Moscatel de Grano Menudo

Los Palacios (Sevilla, B Airén, Colombard, Sauvignon blanc 2003)

Norte de Almería T | R | B (T/R) Cab-Sauvignon, Merlot, (Almería, 2008) Monastrell

(B) Airén, Chardonnay, Macabeo

Ribera del Andarax T | R | B (T/R) Cab-Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah (Almería, 2003) (B) Macabeo, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc

Sierra Norte de Sevilla T | R | B (T/R) Garnacha Tinta, Tempranillo, Cab- (Sevilla, 2004) Sauvignon

(B) Chardonnay, PX, Palomino, Moscatel de Alejandría

Sierra Sur de Jaén (Jaén, T | B (T) Garnacha Tinta, Pinot Noir, Syrah 2003) (B) Jaén Blanco, Chardonnay

Sierras de las Estancias y T | R | B (T/R) Cab-Sauvignon, Merlot, los Filabres (Almería, Monastrell, Tempranillo 2008) (B) Airén, Macabeo, Moscatel de Grano Menudo

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Torreperogil (Jaén, 2006) T | B (T) Garnacha Tinta, Syrah, Cab- Sauvignon, Tempranillo

(B) Jaén Blanco, Pedro Ximénez

Villaviciosa de Córdoba B | G (B) Baladí Verdejo, Calagraño, Palomino (Córdoba, 2008) Fino, Verdejo

(G) Palomino, Pedro Ximénez.

OTHER DRINKS

Brandy The most common Spanish word for Brandy is coñac, but it has been illegal to market Spanish brandy as coñac since 15 June 1989 when French cognac received its Protected Designation of Origin. The word ‘brandy’ is an anglicismo (the Real Academia Española spells it ‘brandi’) and derives from the Dutch word brandewijn, meaning ‘burnt wine’. In defiance of EU trade law, the Real Academia still prefers the term ‘coñac’ (an analogous case is roquefort, which in Spain can refer to any creamy blue cheese, not only that made in the French town of Roquefort, as well as jamón York (‘York Ham’) which refers to any cooked — rather than cured — ham). Spain probably was the first country to produce brandy as it was the earliest to learn about distillation under the Moors in the 8th century. Although the first written reference to Spanish brandy only comes in the 16th century, circumstantial evidence indicates that distillation was already well established by the 13th century, and very likely predates that. Today, Spain produces about 80 million bottles of brandy per year. Three- quarters is consumed domestically; the balance is exported around the world. Mexico and the Philippines are the largest foreign consumers of Spanish brandy. Most British supermarkets stock at least one brand of Spanish brandy (even if under their own label) but due to the long tradition of cognac and armagnac in the UK, the Spanish variant is largely unknown to most consumers. This is a pity, as Spanish brandy represents exceptional value and

75 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Other Drinks quality. It tends to have caramel notes and is far smoother and more complex that its French counterpart. Spanish brandy is primarily produced in Jerez in Andalucía (95%) and Penedès in Catalonia (5%). In Jerez, there are 30 producers, or bodegas, producing brandy in the ‘sherry triangle’ formed by the towns of Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. To be called a Brandy de Jerez, the brandy needs to be matured within the sherry triangle in casks that previously held sherry and utilise a solera system (also used in the production of sherry, and Scotch whisky, which uses sherry barrels) for ageing. It does not, however, need to be distilled in Jerez or use grapes grown there. Spanish brandy is mostly based on the Airén grape; a rather bland variety with a high tolerance of heat and drought. It is mostly grown for brandy production in La Mancha and Valdapeñas in central Spain. Palomino, a grape variety used in sherry production, is also used for producing Spanish brandy. In Penedès brandy producers use Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada, the same grape varieties used to produce Spanish Cava. They also use Ugni Blanc, the same grape variety used in Cognac. Distillation utilises both a traditional pot still as well as column stills. The pot still is called an alembique. It is derived from the ‘alquitara’ stills introduced by the moors in the 8th century. They are the predecessor to the Charentais stills used in Cognac for brandy production — one of the pieces of evidence that Spanish brandy production predates French production. Pot still produced spirit must have an alcohol content (ABV) of between 40% and 70%. This spirit is known in the brandy trade as ‘holandas’. It is only distilled once, although there are a few producers who double distill. Spirit produced from column stills has to be between 70% and 94.8% ABV, and is termed ‘aguardiente’ (literally ‘hard water’). Brandy de Jerez is classified into three categories: Solera, Solera Reserva and Solera Gran Reserva. Solera is typically a mix of 50% holandas and 50% aguardiente and is aged on average for one year. It must have a three-month minimum ageing. Solera Reserva is a mix of 75% holandas and 25% aguardiente and is aged for an average of three years. It has a minimum ageing of one year.

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Solera Gran Reserva is 100% holandas and is aged for an average of 10 years, with a minimum ageing of three years. In Jerez, brandy must be aged in sherry barrels that are at least three years old. This ensures that the wood is largely neutral and has little impact on the maturing spirit. In practice, the sherry casks used are usually much older. At Osborne, for example, one of the major producers in the region, the sherry casks used for maturing Brandy de Jerez have an average age of 60 years. Brandy bodegas in Jerez are required to utilise a solera system of fractional blending. The solera consists of horizontal rows of barrels called criaderas (‘nurseries’). Each criadera is numbered. It can consist of one to hundreds of barrels. All the barrels in a criadera hold brandy of the same average age. A bodega may have anywhere from three to as many as 45 different criaderas. The oldest criadera is called the solera. These are the barrels from which the brandy destined for bottling is extracted. It is called the solera because it is the lowest row, and thus nearest the suelo or floor. Each extraction from the solera is called a saca. Up to a quarter of a barrel’s contents can be extracted at any one time. The brandy removed is replaced with brandy from the next oldest criadera until all of the criaderas have been filled. The youngest criadera is topped up with new spirit. Extractions can take place as often as every four months or as infrequently as once a year, or even once every two years. The ‘date’ of the solera is based on the year it was established. The barrels from which the saca is extracted would consist of a blend of brandy from each of the prior years that the solera has been maintained. In Jerez, the ‘age’ of a bottling refers to the weighted average of the spirit in the solera. A Spanish brandy labeled a 20 YO, for example, would typically incorporate brandies ranging from four to 50 years in age. 20 years is the weighted average of the age of the different brandies in the solera. Each age statement requires its own unique solera. You cannot produce different age statements from the same solera without dismantling that solera.

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In a solera system, blending takes place prior to maturation and continues over that maturation process, whereas in many other spirits, at least those that don’t use a solera system, maturation takes place before blending so there is more flexibility with how to utilise warehouse stocks. Once a solera has been established the average age will remain constant, as long as the sacas are extracted on the same schedule. This is different practice than, say, the Scotch whisky system where the stated age on a bottling is the youngest component of the blend. Likewise, with Cognac, the different classifications are based on the youngest component of the blend, even though those blends could incorporate spirits that are far older.

SOME OF THE BEST SPANISH BRANDIES: Conde de Osborne, Solera Gran Reserva (Jerez, 40.5% ABV) This brandy is produced from 100% Airén grapes, which have been matured in sherry casks that previously held sweet Pedro Ximenez sherry. The average age is over 10 years. On the nose, there are notes of beeswax, honey, dried fruit and sweet marzipan. On the palate, this is a thick, viscous brandy, with pronounced flavours of raisins, fig and prune, along with some caramel notes and some surprising meaty notes. The finish is long, featuring sweet dried fruit and a hint of bitterness at the end. Sanchez Romate ‘Cardenal Mendoza’, Solera Gran Reserva (Jerez, 40% ABV) Cardinal Mendoza is aged for an average of 15 years in a combination of Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherry casks. The brandy is named for Cardinal Don Pedro Gonzalez de Mendoza, an adviser to Fernando and Isabel who was instrumental in persuading the Spanish monarchs to support Christopher Columbus’s first voyage to the new world. On the nose, there is an intense sherry cask aroma of raisin, prune and sweet almond. The palate features a pronounced weight with dried fruit, along with some coffee notes, orange zest and cinnamon. The finish, which is very rich and satiny smooth, emphasizes sweet almond notes, with a hint of bitterness on the end. Pedro Domecq ‘Carlos I’, Solera Gran Reserva (Jerez, 40% ABV)

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The brandy is aged in casks that previously held Oloroso and Amontillado sherry from a solera that is more than 100 years old. The average age of the brandy, however, is probably around five years. The nose is very pronounced, with Christmas cake notes of cooked pastry and dried fruit, along with vanilla, cinnamon and some oak. On the palate, the brandy is silky smooth, with notes of sweet dried fruit, especially golden raisin and fig, some caramel, with hints of vanilla and licorice and a touch of smoke. Gonzales Byass ‘Lepanto’, Solera Gran Reserva (Jerez, 40% ABV) Lepanto is the only brandy distilled in the city of Jerez from locally grown Palomino grapes, the same variety used to produce sherry. The brandy is double distilled in Charentais pot stills, originally from Cognac, and is aged for an average of 12 years: the first nine years in barrels that previously contained Tío Pepe and a further three years in casks that previously held 30 YO sweet Oloroso Matusalem sherry. The brandy is very smooth, dry and delicate, offering notes of caramel, almonds and vanilla. There is also a version finished in dry oloroso casks, Lepanto Oloroso Viejo, and a version finished in Pedro Ximenez casks, Lepanto Pedro Ximenez. The latter is sweeter. Williams & Humbert ‘Gran Duque D’Alba’, Solera Gran Reserva (Jerez, 40% ABV) An aromatic brandy that has been aged for 10 to 12 years in butts that previously held Oloroso sherry. It offers notes of prunes, raisins and dates, along with hints of roasted nuts and old leather. The brandy is smooth, with a pronounced palate weight, with flavours of dried fruit, caramel and vanilla. There is also an 18 YO XO expression that is finished in sweet PX sherry casks and a 20 YO Oro expression matured in dry Palo Cortado sherry casks. Much of the branding of Spanish brandy revolves around historical Spanish figures, like Philip II or Charles V, or commemorates important Spanish events, like the naval victory of Spain and its allies over the Ottoman fleet at Lepanto in 1571. While this focus underscores its uniquely Spanish character, it also fails to resonate with outsiders. This is similar to the Scotch whisky industry’s preoccupation a generation ago with kilts and bagpipes in marketing Scotch whisky. Spain’s brandy producers

79 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Other Drinks need to market their product to appeal to a more cosmopolitan buyer, while still preserving its essential Spanish character. For those in the know, however, Spain represents some of the best value high-quality brandy available. If you enjoy brandy, but have been put off the Spanish version by brands like ‘Fundador’ — basically a cooking brandy — then Spain is the place to sample the quality stuff.

Vermú Vermú (baiR-moo) — vermut is the Catalan spelling — is one of the most castizo (authentic) features of Spanish aperitivo culture, and yet one which few visitors ever bother to try (despite being rather pleased with themselves at how authentically they have embraced ‘tapas culture’). In fact, it gives its name to the pre-lunch aperitif, which is known as ‘la hora del vermú’ (1pm-2pm) whether or not vermouth is being drunk. We tend to think of vermouth as, at best, a cocktail ingredient, or at worst a bottle grasped in desperation at a student party at 3am. So what you absolutely must do is banish any thought of Martini or Cinzano. Think instead of Cynar, or Punt e Mes. Spanish vermú is made all over Spain, and especially from Reus near Tarragona, La Rioja or from Madrid. A decade or so ago, vermú was regarded as a dated drink, consumed only by elderly men hankering after the days of the Caudillo. In recent years, however, it has once again become a trendy tipple and Andalucía is now home to several artisan producers. These are mostly concentrated around Málaga, Jerez and the Montilla-Moriles region around Córdoba. It is common to see it, on tap, referred to by origin (Reus, Madrid, La Rioja) or as del mes or del tiempo (vermouth of the month or season). Spanish vermouth is usually dark, sweet and bitter, more complex than the Italian bog-standard, with aromatic notes of orange peel, cinnamon, mace and dozens of other, less easy to identify, botanicals: gentian root (which gives bitterness), fennel, wormwood, walnut bark, cinnamon, bitter orange peel and many others. Spaniards drink it neat on ice, sometimes with sifón (soda). If the barman unscrews a plastic bottle of what looks like lemonade when you ask for sifón, that’s La Casera — a peculiarly Spanish variety of sweet soda which is frequently mixed with red wine to make tinto de verano (summer red wine). Because vermú is the aperitivo par excellence, you will almost always be given a tapita with each

80 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Other Drinks glass — usually crisps, olives or a mixture of cornichons and cocktail onions. A common tapita is a ‘gilda’ — an olive, cocktail onion, anchovy and cornichon threaded onto a cocktail stick in a tiny kebab. They are naked after the character played by Rita Hayworth in the eponymous 1946 film. The reason for the name, it is said, is that like Ms Hayworth these little cocktail bites make a man feel hungry!

El Gin-Tonic What the Real Academia knows as ‘un ginebra con tónica’ is universally called ‘un gin-tonic’ throughout Spain (and pronounced in the English way with a soft, not gutteral G). It comes as a surprise to many to learn that Spain is the largest consumer of gin (30m litres a year) in Europe and the third largest in the world (after The Philippines and the USA). When it comes to per capita consumption then Spain outdrinks everywhere else at a shade under 0.7 litres per person annually, with the UK (0.48 litres) and even the world’s biggest gin market of The Philippines (0.39 litres) trailing considerably behind. More to the point, the standard bar- poured gin and tonic in Spain is the best in the world. No contest.

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When you consider gin’s association with England, our lukewarm and over- diluted version served in a highball is shameful by comparison. In Spain you will get a big glass, either a half-litre chato (like a squat Guinness glass) or a big goblet like a Belgian beer glass, into which a great scoopful of enormous ice cubes is placed. In the summer, a first round of ice chills the glass and a second scoop is for the drink. Then comes the citrus. Usually it’s a band-aid sized piece of zest from a lemon (sometimes lime or orange) which the barman ruffles with tongs to spray the ice with citrus oils. That piece of zest is often discarded and a fresh piece dropped into the glass. The barman (and it is a barman usually) then begins to pour a stream of gin from the bottle, and pours, and pours. I am guessing that most Spanish gin-tonics are at least trebles, so far more like home measures. It might then be stirred with a bar spoon. The tonic is often Schweppes, but it is not quite as sweet as the version available in the UK, and nowadays other premium tonics are becoming popular. The result is perfection – the massive rocks of ice ensuring that the drink is ice cold and tastes of gin and not a weak mix of gin, tonic and melted ice as in the average British boozer. A number of bars in Madrid now make a feature of their gin-tonic, treating it as a cocktail by using artisanal tonics, premium gins and adding herbs, pink peppercorns, star anise and other embellishments. The main British gin varieties are all available in Spain, indeed it is the second largest export market for British gin after the USA. Most popular are Gordons (which here is export strength, 40%), Beefeater, Bombay Sapphire and Tanqueray. If you order and G&T, you will probably be offered a choice of gins, including Beefeater. Ask instead for a nacional (i.e. Spanish) gin instead — slightly cheaper and, if anything, better quality. There are over 40 widely available Spanish marcas or brands, the most common of which are from Andalucía: Larios (distilled in Málaga) and Rives (from El Puerto de Santa María). Both Larios and Rives have a couple of premium/luxury labels as well as their standard London Dry, plus an orange (Rives) or Citrus (Larios) version, and one flavoured with strawberries (far more delicious than it sounds!). There is also gin made from grape spirit (rather than the usual grain spirit) which comes from, and is called, ‘Mahon’ (in Menorca). If you want to bring back a bottle of what used to be known as “Duty Free” from the airport, then Spanish gin is a very good option. The selection of wine on sale in most airports is not very exciting, and comparatively overpriced,

82 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Other Drinks whereas local gin is excellent quality (infinitely better than Gordon’s) and competitively priced by British standards.

Licores y Digestivos Whereas we tend to drink gin before dinner, Spaniards drink it after. This is perhaps because in the summer, when it can still be well over 30°C late into the evening, strong mixed drinks and cocktails are likely to fell the drinker. Before lunch and dinner, Spaniards drink beer (and clara), wine (especially Sherry wines) and vermú. The favourite after-dinner drinks are: Pacharan — This is basically anisette flavoured with sloes, coffee beans and vanilla. The Spaniards drink 7m litres of this annually, well chilled. It is sometimes spelled patxaran reflecting its Basque origins. It is somewhat like sloe gin, but without the syrupy sweetness. Aguardiente or Orujo — This is marc or any spirit made from grape pomace — essentially Spanish grappa. As with grappa, there are some pretty rough and ready varieties available, but the most popular are the Rua Vieja brands: a herb liqueur, Licor de Hierbas; a coffee liqueur, Licor de Café; a grape-marc liqueur, Licor de Orujo; and a grape-marc brandy, Aguardiente de Orujo, which together account for 35% of the Spanish grape-spirit market. Licor 43 — A rather boring name (licor cuarenta y tres), but rather a nice drink — gold coloured and flavoured with vanilla, citrus and 41 other ingredients. It is Spain’s biggest selling liqueur and is usually drunk on the rocks, but also in cocktails. Anís — Unlike in France, Spanish anís is flavoured only with aniseed, not aniseed and liquorice. But as is France it is usually drunk mixed with water — you are supposed to tip the whole measure into a glass of iced water, not pour from the bottle, as this is reckoned to produce the best palomita (‘little dove’, as the milky mixture is known). Aniseed based spirits are still the most consumed in Europe, and Spain is no exception. It is strong, having an alcohol content between 30% and 50% - and comes in dulce (sweet), semi-seco (medium dry) or seco (dry). It is, believe it or not, a common tipple at breakfast. A quintessential Andalucían drink is sol y sombra

83 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Other Drinks made from mixing anís and brandy, giving a layered effect of the dark brandy (sombra - shade) and the clear anís (sol - sun). Anís is produced in a number of towns in Andalucía, the most famous being those made in Rute, in Cordoba province, and Cazalla de la Sierra in Sevilla province, where there is an interesting variant, aguardiente de cereza made from cherries. Miura in Cazalla also make cherry/aniseed brandy. It is also produced in Zalamea and Cortegana in Huelva province. Ponche Caballero — This ‘gentleman’s punch’ is a liqueur brandy flavoured with oranges, plums, sultanas and cinnamon. Usually drunk con hielo (with ice) in a brandy balloon, its distinctive silver bottle is supposed to recall a punchbowl. Ron de Motril — Rum is popular in Spain, but almost all is imported from the Caribbean. The main domestic producer is in Motril, near Granada. Rum was first made in Spain (sugar cane having been introduced by the Moors) and then introduced to the New World rather than vice versa.

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SEVILLA LO BÁSICO — BACKGROUND INFORMATION City: Sevilla (English: Sevilla) Province: Sevilla Autonomous Community: Andalucía City rank (Spain): 4th Airport Rank (Spain): 12th Foundation: 1000 BC (Phoenician settlement) 45 BC (Roman City) Population (City): 689,434 Population (Metropolitan): 1,535,379 Government: Ayuntamiento (City Council) Head of Government: Juan Espadas (PSOE, 2015) Budget (2017): €915 million

Demonyms: sevillano, -a | hispalense Motto: “She has not abandoned me”* Primary Patron: Our Lady of The Kings Patrons: Saint Ferdinand (Fernando III of Castile) and Saints Justa & Rufina

*Visitors to Sevilla will notice a symbol on the signs around the city, from taxis and buses to manhole covers, consisting of the letters NO8DO. This is the city´s logo, and legend relates that it originates from the 13th-century coat of arms awarded to Sevilla by King Alfonso X El Sabio (‘the Wise’). He bestowed it in gratitude for Sevilla´s support in his battles against his son, Sancho IV of Castile, who wanted to usurp his father´s throne during the reconquista. Between the ´NO and ´DO´ is an 8-shaped bundle of wool (‘madeja’ in

85 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink: Lo básico — Background information castellano). Put the three together, and say them in Sevilla´s fast, elliptical accent and you have ´no-madeja-do´ or, more correctly, ´no me ha dejado´ which means ´it (the city) has not abandoned me´. The motto was his reward to the people of Sevilla for their loyalty. It was adopted at the official flag of Sevilla in 1995, replacing the arms of Fernando III. DIRECTORY

British Consulate (Malaga) + 34 952 35 23 00 Spanish Police Tourist Helpline + 34 902 10 21 12 | 0900-2100 Pharmacy (24 hours) Farmacia Jardines de Murillo | Avenida de Menéndez Pelayo, 12 | +34 954 41 83 59 Emergency Number 112 Health Emergency Number 061 Taxis Order through hotel font desk, or there is a small rank (2-3 cars) 20 metres from the Hotel Rey Alfonso X outside the Santa Maria La Blanca church. UBER also operates in Sevilla. Tourist Information www.visitasevilla.es/en Plaza del Triunfo 1 Costurero de la Reina, Paseo de las Delicias 7 Paseo Alcalde Marqués del Contadero

86 ¿Cómo llegar? — Arriving: ¿Cómo llegar? — Arriving ¿Cómo llegar? — Arriving BY AIR Sevilla Airport is relatively small airport of one terminal, and is only 7 miles from the city centre. You have three options for travelling from the airport to your hotel: Bus — The Línea Aeropuerto bus ‘EA’ leaves from the stand outside Arrivals (Level ‘0’) at the following times: 2035, 2049, 2113, 2138, 2202, 2026, 2048 (the last bus is at 0053) and the single fare is €4. The journey to the city centre takes around 30 minutes, give or take depending on traffic. Get off at the stop called Prado San Sebastián (Carlos V) which is a few stops after the Santa Justa Railway Station. Stops should be announced or displayed, but if you look out of the left hand side of the bus, you will see the green signs at the entrance to the Prado de San Sebastián metro station. On the Google Map, select the layer: Route: Airport Bus Stop to Hotel. When you get off the bus walk straight ahead (the same direction as the bus) and turn right at the big roundabout onto the Avenida de Menéndez Pelayo — a wide, two- lane boulevard. On your left are the Murillo Gardens, on the right are buildings. After 550 metres, you will see a two-storey ochre- coloured building with terracotta cornicing. This the Diputación de Sevilla, a government building. Turn left at the next crossroads into the Calle Puerta de la Carne. Walk straight ahead. The Hotel Rey Alfonso X is 100m along this street, on the left hand side.

87 ¿Cómo llegar? — Arriving: By Air

Bus + Taxi — To save yourself a 15 minute walk, take the Airport ‘EA’ Bus, but get off at Kansas City (Estación Santa Justa), then walk to the front of the station and pick up a taxi from the rank. A taxi to the Hotel Rey Alfonso X should cost around €6 and will take you to the door. Taxi — This is the most expensive option, but the most relaxed. The taxi rank, like the bus stop, is outside Arrivals on Level ‘0’. As you exit the terminal turn right (the rank is in front of the bus stop). During the April Fair (ends 11 May 2019) the daytime flat rate tariff is €24.75. In the evening, after 2100, this rises to €30.93. However, there are no supplements for more than one passenger, or for items of luggage. GETTING TO SANTA JUSTA RAILWAY STATION

Catch the b No. 21 Bus from (east side) Menéndez Pelayo (Puerta De La Carne) outside the small ‘Galeria Comercial’ shopping arcade and lottery kiosk, as far as José Laguillo (Estación De Santa Justa). Buses are every 10 minutes and the journey takes less than 10 minutes in normal traffic. N.B. There are two stops called Menéndez Pelayo (Puerta De La Carne) either side of the road. Make sure you get the right one! GETTING TO THE BUS STATION

Catch the b No. 21 Bus from (west side) Menéndez Pelayo (Puerta De La Carne) outside the Santander Bank, as far as Torneo (Estación Plaza De Armas). Buses are every 10 minutes and the journey takes 20 minutes in normal traffic. N.B. There are two stops called Menéndez Pelayo (Puerta De La Carne) either side of the road. Make sure you get the right one!

88 Introduction: Introduction Introduction SEVILLA, the capital of Andalucía and the fourth largest town in Spain, has a long and distinguished history going back to Celto-Iberian times. Greeks, Phoenicians, and Carthaginians settled here, and, after 47 BC the place became one of the leading towns in Roman Bætica. Julius Caesar stayed here, and the emperors Hadrian and Trajan were born in the neighbouring settlement of Italica, The Visigothic encyclopedist and archbishop St. Isidore turned Sevilla in the 6th century into a major European centre of learning, and when the Moors first came to Spain in 732 they made the town briefly the capital of al- Andalus. In the 11th century Sevilla was the most important of Spain's taifa or Moorish city-states, and in the late 12th and 13th centuries the town enjoyed considerable prosperity even under the restrictive rule of the Almohads. Recaptured by (Saint) Ferdinand III in 1258, Sevilla later became a favoured residence of Spanish kings, in particular Pedro the Cruel. But it was not until after 1492, with the discovery of the New World, that Sevilla entered the most important phase in its history, becoming in the 16th century one of the liveliest, loveliest and most cosmopolitan cities of the western world, and though the lion’s share of New World wealth was destined for Madrid, Sevilla also became spectacularly wealthy. Economic and political decline set in in the early 17th century, but this was also the period when such remarkable artists as Velázquez, Zurbarán and Murillo worked in Sevilla. When in the 19th century travellers started flocking to Spain from all over Europe, Sevilla emerged as one of the country's major tourist centres, attracting people not simply because of its monuments and superlative 17th-century paintings, but also because it represented to these travellers all that was most attractive about Spain. It was a city of jasmine-scented sensuality, the birthplace of Carmen and Don Juan, and the scene of endless exuberant secular and religious festivities. For most of the 19th century Sevilla remained surrounded by its medieval walls, and these looked out directly on to the Guadalquivir river and to the surrounding fertile plains. By the end of the century most of the walls had been pulled down, and the city had begun to expand outwards to the detriment of its old core. The Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929 promised to breathe new life into Sevilla, and indeed gave to the city an elegant new focus in the enormous area of parkland and luxury residences created to the south of the cathedral.

89 Introduction: Introduction

But the rush of workers into Sevilla in search of jobs initiated the unplanned urban sprawl that would bring chaos and congestion to the city by the 1970's. The decision to hold in Sevilla in 1992 one of the most important World Exhibitions of the century, raised hopes of solving the worst of these urban problems. However, the prospect of the so-called EXPO was by no means universally welcomed here, not least by those who remembered that the city had been bankrupted by the Exhibition of 1929 and was still paying off its debts. Many thought the occasion would primarily benefit the more corrupt members of the ruling Socialist party; others doubted the long-term viability of building new transport terminals on a scale worthy of London, Paris or New York; most people looked anxiously ahead to the EXPo's aftermath, and the almost certain rise in the city's high unemployment level. These fears did not prove groundless; and the city went on to suffer one of its worst recessions ever, a noticeable effect of which was the greatly reduced number of sevillianos promenading through the streets on weekday nights. Yet, on a more positive note, Sevilla has been considerably smartened up, a radical new infrastructure has eased traffic congestion, and some of the most stunning of modern structures have enhanced rather than detracted from the city's perennial elegance. And, no less encouragingly, all this modernity and all the attempts to bring Sevilla more into line with other modern European cities have not diminished the more endearingly idiosyncratic features of its inhabitants, notably their late hours, inherent hedonism, and the famously quick wit that so impressed the 19th century travel writer, Richard Ford. The sevillanos’ sense of humour and genius at devising nicknames have indeed responded well to recent changes and crises. A short-lived branch of Marks and Spencers was given the easier-to-pronounce Andalucían-sounding name of ‘Mari Pere’, while the new bridge of the Centenario, which resembles a smaller version of San Francisco's Golden Gate, has been dubbed the 'Paquillo' (a diminutive of Francis). The EXPO was a particularly rich source of jokes: ‘the first discovery was fire’ everyone quipped when the pyramid-shaped Pavilion of Discoveries burnt down shortly before the opening of the Exhibition. Few first-time visitors to Sevilla fail immediately to succumb to its pervasively sensual and exotic atmosphere, which seems reflected in the physical ease and beauty of the people. However, after only a short while here, this feeling of rapturous enchantment often turns to frustration among the more culturally- minded tourists. Despite the impressive new venues for cultural events, the

90 Introduction: Introduction city's cultural life remains remarkably limited: few classical concerts are held, drama is poor, cinemas are barely attended, and — a particularly ironic limitation in view of Sevilla's fame as the city: of Carmen and Figaro — opera is almost non-existent, except for occasional tours of visiting companies. Furthermore there is a scarcity of good guide-books to lead you through the labyrinth of little known attractions to be found beyond the city's relatively small tourist district. Sevilla, like its inhabitants, is far more difficult to get to know than its apparent openness suggests, and has a large hidden side that is symbolised by the extent to which its old centre is occupied by the grounds of private palaces and cloistered convents. On page 112 below, I introduce the sightseeing section with a very hurried overview of what the city has to offer, but in doing just this I have probably mentioned several places unknown even to some of the sevillianos themselves, not to mention tourists. Finally — and significantly — I should add that the more you enjoy Sevilla the less time you will probably devote to conventional sightseeing. This famed city of endless socialising and lingering in bars is a place where the best of intentions are liable to go astray: the moment when visitors can guiltlessly abandon much of what they have set out to do and happily move on to the after-lunch drink marks an important step in adapting to the life of this most infuriating but entrancing of cities.

91 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings THE OUTER BARRIOS 90% of the bars, restaurants and attractions that I shall list below are in the central part of Sevilla officially known as Centro or Casco Viejo. On the map, Centro is the large inverted teardrop or egg-shaped area in the centre. The bullring, Giralda (cathedral bell tower) and Hotel Rey Alfonso X are all indicated to give an idea of scale. The (Railway) Estación Santa Justa is also shown. The Centro district is about 2 miles north to south, and just under 2 miles east to west, so it is easily walkable.

Macarena The district north of the old city wall is named after the Macarena Gate. The famous Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza Macarena (Our Lady of Hope of Macarena) is just inside the gate. The Andalucían parliament meets at the Antiguo Hospital de las Cinco Llagas (Old Hospital of the Five Wounds) in this district.

Nervión The modern development to the east of Centro is the business district. It is where most of the large hotels and shopping centres are located, as well as the Santa Justa railway station and the Sevilla F.C. ground.

92 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Outer Barrios

El Porvenir El Porvenir is the name given to the area around the María Luisa Park, which grew up in the first decades of the 20th century. The site was donated to the city of Sevilla by María Luisa, the Infanta of Spain and daughter of Fernando VII (r. 1808 & 1813-33), who once resided at the Palacio San Telmo (now seat of the Presidency of the Andalucían Government). The area’s development was due in large part to the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929 which took place in the María Luisa Park.

Los Remedios Across the river, Los Remedios is a new-ish (post 1960) residential district of tower-blocks and little in the way of historical interest. However, this is where the Feria de Abril (Sevilla Fair) is now held (before 1973 it took place at the Prado de San Sebastián, where the airport bus stops).

Triana Of all the districts outside Centro, this is the one that you will want to visit. Although long of strategic importance (the Arabs built a castle here in the 10th century) and incorporated into Sevilla proper by the Caliph Abu Yaqub Yusuf in 1171 when a pontoon bridge was constructed, Triana has always had a distinct identity. On the right bank of the river (on the Centro side) were found merchants, the shipyards and the docks. The left bank (Triana) was home to fishermen, potters and gypsies.

Cartuja Cartuja is just north of Triana and is so called because it was the site of a Charterhouse (‘Cartuja’) — El Monasterio de Santa María de las Cuevas (Our Lady of the Caves). The area was known for pottery in the time of the Almohads in the twelfth century, and alluvial clay was extracted by the potters of Triana by digging caves. A reconquista legend from around 1248 reports that an image of the Virgin Mary was found in one of the caves (miraculously hidden during the Muslim era), hence ‘Our Lady of the Caves’. A small hermitage was constructed over the site, and at the end of the 14th century, Archbishop Gonzalo de Mena

93 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Outer Barrios y Roelas gave the hermitage of Las Cuevas to the Franciscans, who began the efforts to found a friary there. Archbishop Gonzalo de Mena y Roelas encountered the Carthusians in Burgos and, after striking a deal with the Franciscans, the Carthusians took possession of the hermitage in 1401. On January 24, 1810, as the French troops approached the city, the friars shipped some valuables to Cádiz to prevent them from being plundered. However, the ship was intercepted by the French in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and all its contents were requisitioned. In February of 1810 the city was invaded by the French and La Cartuja became an artillery barracks and administrative headquarters of the army and was emptied of religious artefacts. After the expulsion of the French, the Carthusians returned to Sevilla in 1812. Under the Trienio Liberal government of 1820 to 1823, the assets of the monastery were seized and the monastery was exclaustrated to be used as housing. The building was returned once more to the Carthusians in 1823 and in 1827 its church was reopened for worship. On February 19, 1836 the convent was confiscated during the short, but highly destructive, administration of Juan Álvarez Mendizábal. The friars were never to return. Cristóbal Colón (Christopher Columbus) consulted documents in the library of the monastery to prepare the defence of his arguments (in favour of a western route to the Indies) in Salamanca before making his first trip. Colón and his family made use of the rooms of the building to stay while he was in the city, and this was one of the reasons why the island of La Cartuja was chosen as the site of the Universal Exhibition (Expo) of 1992.

Thanks to Washington Irving’s 1932 Tales from the Alhambra, many people believe that the Dominicans of Salamanca disagreed with Colón’s proposal because they believed the earth to be flat and feared that he would sail off the edge. Flat-Earthism is a rather modern idea, and the friars simply had a more accurate knowledge of the earth’s size. Their fear was that Colón had underestimated the length of the route and would therefore run out of provisions before reaching India — which he would have done, had the Caribbean islands not saved him.

94 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Outer Barrios

After being confiscated in 1836, the monastery was used as a prison, housing some two hundred inmates. In 1838 the merchant Charles Pickman, from Liverpool, put in an offer to buy the property and the prisoners were transferred to the former convent of the Trinity. Pickman converted the building into a porcelain factory which started production in 1841. In 1982 the factory moved to Salteras, a town outside Sevilla, and the government took control of the buildings. They housed the Royal pavilion at the 1992 Expo, which took place in Sevilla on the occasion of the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America. Pickman pottery — similar to that produced in Stoke on Trent in the 19th century — is still on sale in Sevilla. Pickman himself became supplier to the Spanish Royal Household and, in 1973, was created a Marquis by King Amadeo I. From 1997 onwards, the Cartuja began to function as a museum when it became the headquarters of the Andalusian Centre for Contemporary Art. Fascinating though its history is, unless you have a particular interest in the Carthusian Order, or in contemporary art, there is little reason to visit. The sculpture and art from the original monastery which survived is now in the Cathedral or Fine Art Museum. And while the legacy of the 1929 Expo includes an attractive park and many fine buildings in different styles, the constructions of the 1992 Expo have little to commend them. Cartuja is now home to a technology/business park, and an amusement park called Isla Magica (‘Magic Island’).

Guadalquivir The 408 mile long río Guadalquivir (gwad-al-kee-beer) rises in the Cazorla mountains in the Province of Jaén, passing through Córdoba and Sevilla before flowing into the Atlantic at the fishing village of Bonanza in the Gulf of Cádiz. The modern name Guadalquivir comes from the Arabic al-wadi al-kabir meaning ‘great river’. The Phoenicians, you founded Cádiz in 1104 BC were the first to navigate the Guadalquivir, but our first reliable source is Roman. The Roman name for the river was Baetis, and they settled in Hispalis (Sevilla), in the 2nd century BC, making it into an important river port. By the 1st century BC Hispalis was a walled city with shipyards building longboats to carry wheat. In the 1st century AD, Hispalis was home to entire naval squadrons. Ships sailed to Rome with various products including minerals, salt, and fish. During Arab rule

95 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Outer Barrios between 712 and 1248, the Moors left a stone dock and the Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold) to reinforce the port defences. In the 13th century, with Sevilla once more under Christian rule, Fernando III (r. 1217-1252) expanded the shipyards and Sevilla became known for its exports of grain, oil, wine, wool, leather, cheese, honey, wax, nuts and dried fruit, salted fish, metal, silk, linen and dye. After the discovery of the Americas, Sevilla became the economic centre of the Spanish Empire as its port monopolised the trans-oceanic trade and the Casa de Contratación (House of Trade) wielded enormous power. As navigation of the Guadalquivir River became increasingly difficult (in Roman times, the Guadalquivir had been navigable as far as Córdoba) Sevilla's trade monopoly was eventually transferred to Cádiz. The construction of the canal known as the Corta de Merlina in 1794 marked the beginning of the modernisation of the port of Sevilla. Because most visitors to Sevilla only see a comparatively short stretch of the river around the city centre, they are mostly unaware of two significant facts. The first is that Triana is not simply ‘on the other side’ of the river. Rather, it is actually an island in the middle of the river. The other channel of the Guadalquivir is a mile to the west of Triana. The second is that the 8 mile stretch of the river that ‘runs’ between Centro and Triana is more a lagoon than a river. To protect Sevilla (and Triana in particular) from flooding, the river is now dammed at its northern end, while locks control the southern inlet. This is why it is so calm and still, and so popular with rowers. Until the late twentieth century, a number of canals ran between the two branches of the river, making Triana and Cartuja discrete islands, but these have been filled in. Also, south of the historic centre, is the Port of Sevilla, which has berths totalling 2900m, and processes around 1500 cargo vessels annually (5m tonnes of cargo). Although most cruise ship passengers dock in Cádiz, Algeciras or Málaga and visit Sevilla by coach, smaller cruise ships also dock in Sevilla.

96 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Barrios of El Centro

THE BARRIOS OF EL CENTRO The Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) of Sevilla, counts Centro as a single district, or barrio. But most sevillanos refer to the subdivisions of Centro using the traditional names of the barrios, many of which are the names of ancient parishes. (‘Barrio’ is derived from the Arabic word ‘barri’ meaning ‘suburb’.) Each barrio retains its own identity, often celebrating its own fiestas (local feast days). For example, the inhabitants of San Julián will have street parties in early September celebrating ‘Velá de la Hiniesta’ — the feast of Our Lady of the Broom, while sevillanos living 200 metres away will carry on as normal, having their own feasts. To see the barrios of Sevilla on the companion Google Map, select the ‘Barrios’ layer (see p. 2).

Santa Cruz This is the largest and, for the visitor, most important barrio, occupying almost a quarter of the Casco Viejo. It is bordered on its eastern flank by the line of the original Roman walls and the Murillo Gardens. On its western side, its limit corresponds to the pedestrianised Avenida de la Constitución which runs along the eastern side of the Cathedral. To the west of the Cathedral, basically

97 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Barrios of El Centro between the Cathedral and the Hotel Rey Alfonso X, is the area known as the Judería. The Cardo Maximo (the name given to the main north-south in Roman cities) passed through the current Abades and Don Remondo streets. Next to the Cardo was a second century temple of which three columns of the portico are preserved in the same place, on Calle Mármoles (mármoles means ‘marbles’). In the Middle Ages six columns were present, but in the fourteenth century Pedro I (‘the Cruel’ r. 1367-69) wanted to take one to the Alcázar but it was broken while being moved. In 1576 two further columns were moved to the Alameda de Hércules, where they can still be seen. As the culmination of this project, two sculptures were placed atop the columns: Hercules (mythological founder of Sevilla) and Julius Caesar (referred to as the restorer of the city during Roman rule). In the second half of the eighteenth century, two additional statues of lions with shields, representing Sevilla and Spain, were placed on the northern columns. Within the walls of the Alcázar is the Patio de Banderas, accessible to the public. It owes its name to some flags (banderas) which were formerly painted on the door of the wall through which it is accessed. In the 1970s, remains of a Christian basilica dating back to the fourth century and used in the Roman and Visigothic periods, were found here. In the eleventh century the al-Zahir palace, which was fortified like a castle and had tall towers, was erected in this area. Closer to the Guadalquivir was the small palace of al-Zahi, which had a domed hall called Sa'd al-Su'ud. The greatest of all the palaces of the city was that of al-Mubarak (meaning ‘the Blessed One’). All these palaces were frequented by King Al-Mutámid, and al- Mubarak was the one that, centuries later, would be reformed by the Christians into the current Alcázar. In 1248 King Ferdinand III of Castile reconquered the city from the Muslims. The Jews settled in the neighbourhoods of Santa Cruz and San Bartolomé (which I have combined with Santa Cruz on my map). Some of the inhabitants of the Jewish quarter of Sevilla were very close to the kings of Castilla: Solomon ibn Zadok of Toledo was adviser to Alfonso X; Yudah Abravanel de Sevilla was one of the most influential figures of the court of Ferdinand IV; Yusaf de Écija was senior almojarife (treasurer) to Alfonso XI; Samuel ha-Leví de Toledo was Pedro I's almojarife and had business and family interests in Sevilla; Yusaf

98 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Barrios of El Centro

Pichón was Enrique II's almojarife; Samuel Abravanel was almojarife of Juan I and, after his conversion, took the name of Juan Sánchez de Sevilla. Sevilla was the second most important Jewish community in Spain, after Toledo. Fernando III gave three mosques to the Jewish community to be converted into synagogues. They continued to be used for Jewish worship for 140 years, but after the anti-Jewish revolt of 1391 these buildings were confiscated for Christian use. They became the churches of San Bartolomé, Santa María la Blanca (very close to the Hotel Rey Alfonso X), and Santa Cruz, from which the entire barrio takes its name. The oratory of the convent of Madre de Dios was also a synagogue. The French invasion of Sevilla in 1810 brought with it the closure of the church of Santa Cruz, which was demolished in 1814. The Plaza de Santa Cruz was constructed on the site. The parish of Santa Cruz is the seat of the (Holy Week) Brotherhood of Santa Cruz, founded in 1904. The Plaza de Santa Cruz was reformed in 1918 by Juan Talavera y Heredia, and the 17th century iron Cross of the Cerrajería (locksmiths’ cross) was placed in the centre. The sevillano painter Bartolomé Esteban Murillo had been buried in the old church of Santa Cruz, so the Royal Academy of Fine Arts placed a commemorative plaque in 1848. The earthquake of Lisbon of 1755 happened during Sunday mass, which had to move outside while damage to the masonry was assessed. In thanksgiving that no lives were lost a ‘Memorial of the Triumph’ (‘del triunfo’) was placed in the plaza where that mass had been celebrated, in 1757, and the square renamed the Plaza del Triunfo. In 1900 the Cardinal Archbishop, Bl. Marcelo Spínola inaugurated a monument to the Immaculate Conception. Created by the sculptor Lorenzo Coullaut Valera and the architect José Espiau y Muñoz, it is located in the Plaza del Triunfo and was completed in 1918. It consists of four columns that hold a statue of the Immaculate Virgin. On each of the four sides of the base of the monument there are statues depicting Juan de Pineda, Murillo, Martínez Montañés and Miguel Cid. The Barrio de Santa Cruz is a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys following a typically medieval pattern. Despite the narrowness of the streets and the feeling of compactness, scattered through the neighbourhood are a surprising number of plazas or squares. As well as the aforementioned Plaza de Santa

99 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Barrios of El Centro

Cruz, the Plaza de los Venerables is full of bars and terraces. Its name is believed to come from the onetime Hospital los Venerables Sacerdotes (home for retired clergy); according to legend it may also have been the birthplace of Don Juan Tenorio — the historical model for countless literary and operatic versions of ‘Don Juan’. The tiny Plaza de las Cruces, has three columns, each topped by a cross. The elegant Plaza de Doña Elvira, with its azulejos (tiles), orange trees, fountains, and brick-and-tile benches, was once a corral de comedias (a type of open-air theatre). It is the supposed birthplace of Don Juan Tenorio's impossible love, the mythical Doña Inés de Ulloa, daughter of Don Gonzalo. The Plaza de los Refinadores has a graceful sculpture of Don Juan. Other plazas are the Plaza de Alfaro along the city wall, and the Plaza de la Alianza (formerly Plaza del Pozo Seco). Besides these public squares, one can glimpse (and smell) the flowering plants in the patios of private houses. The style of the typical sevillano house helps to explain the Spanish fondness for intimate public squares. Even the smallest house is arranged around a patio (one of the words we borrow from Spanish, along with canyon, tornado, flotilla, alligator, cargo, suave, bonanza and cafeteria). The patio is shaded from the sun for most of the day, and often there is a fountain to create — as the sound running water tends to — a sense of coolness. The Callejón del Agua, an alley parallel to the city walls, was once the route along which water was brought to the royal Alcázar of Sevilla, and at one time was the home of the American writer Washington Irving, marked by a plaque made by Mariano Benlliure. The alley also leads to one of the exits from the neighbourhood, via the Jardines de Murillo. Another exit from Santa Cruz is the Callejón de la Judería and the enormous Patio de Banderas adjacent to the Alcázar and the city walls. The Calle de las Cruces has two wooden crosses on a painted red wall. Public religious symbols were banned in 1868, and these crosses were moved to the Hospital de los Venerables. However, in the mid-1950s, the owners brought them back to their original location, where they can still be seen today. The Calle de Santa Teresa is the site of the Casa de Murillo and of a 17th-century Carmelite convent founded by Saint Teresa of Ávila (the Convent of San José del Carmen). The Calle de Lope de Rueda nearby is known for its mansions; the Calle Mateos Gago is a street full of busy bars, giving excellent views of the Giralda.

100 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Barrios of El Centro

Other streets are less famous, but no less beautiful. It is possible to spend hours wandering through this labyrinth. Even when you find yourself walking along the same street for the second or third time, you are likely to notice something you missed before.

El Arenal El Arenal is located on the left bank of the Guadalquivir River and borders the barrios of Museo and Alfalfa to the north and Santa Cruz to the east and south. Arenal was a large open space, with sand floor (from which its name derives), located between the Triana gate of the old city wall and the Torre del Oro. The river front of the Arenal was the city’s port in the medieval period and the Atarazanas (city shipyards) were here too. The building, consisting of a large row of ships, was used by parties with posterity, from north to south, such as Artillery Maestranza, Church of San Jorge, Hospital de la Caridad and the Customs. Their ships were also used as the original headquarters of the House of Hiring of the Indies, before it was transferred to the Alcázar, and, of course, it also housed port warehouses. In the area occupied by the old Customs House there is currently a building of the Government Treasury Delegation. In the environment industrial buildings and craft workshops were located, such as the blacksmith shops or the Royal House of the Currency. In the Almohad period (1121–1269) the complex of city walls reached its most extended and new palaces were constructed near the walls. This stretch of wall along the south of Arenal was punctuated by defensive towers, running from the river to the Alcázar: the Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold), the Torre de la Plata (Tower of Silver) and the Abd el Aziz. Another point of entry to the walled city is the Postigo del Aceite, (the ‘Oil Gate’, now simply, and redundantly, called the ‘Arco del Postigo’) where it is said that olive oil once entered the city. It was built in 1107 under Ali ibn Yusuf, and renovated in 1572-3. At first it was known as bad al-Qatay (Gate of Boats) and among its other names throughout history have been Puerta de la Alhóndiga (Gate of the Granary) and Puerta de la Aceituna (Gate of the Olive). It features a carved stone representation of San Fernando, with the bishops Isidoro and Leandro. Inside the arch one can see the rails which held the planks to protect against the constant flooding of the river. (The entrances in the city

101 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Barrios of El Centro walls were divided into puertas (the great entrances) and postigos (the minor entrances). Most of the city’s walls were demolished by the Ayuntamiento of Sevilla in the 19th century and now this is the only complete postigo. The only complete puerta is Arco de La Macarena, though remains of the Puerta Real, the Puerta de Córdoba and Postigo del Carbón survive. The Arenal is also where Sevilla finds a good part of its operatic tradition. In front of the Casa de la Moneda, near the Avenida de la Constitución, is where tradition locates the house of Figaro, the city’s eponymous barber. Near the river, there is also the bullring of La Maestranza, belonging to the Real Maestranza de Caballería (Royal Riding School) of the city, where a number of scenes of in the opera Carmen take place (Carmen’s workplace, the former Royal Tobacco Factory is now the home of the University of Sevilla). And there is also the Hospital de la Caridad, founded by the venerable Miguel de Mañara, who also has operas in his honour. Born to a noble family, he had been a noted seducer of women in his youth, but after the death of his wife he repented and devoted himself to serving the poor. In the literary imagination, his character merges with that of Don Juan (Tenorio) — the repentant Don Juan is more Mañara than Tenorio. Fittingly, Arenal is the site of Sevilla’s modern opera house, also called the (Teatro de la) Maestranza.

102 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Barrios of El Centro

The churches located in the surroundings are the Chapel of the Carretería (open 1800-2030), the Chapel of the Baratillo (headquarters of the Baratillo Brotherhood, open 1100-1300, 1900-2100), the Church of San Jorge (in the Hospital de la Caridad), the Chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary (headquarters of the Brotherhood of the Christ of the Waters, open M/W/F 1830-2030, and Sun 1200-1400) and the Chapel of the Pure and Clean (Pura y Limpia), that is next to the Postigo del Aceite.

Other Barrios For information about things to see and places to visit, eat and drink throughout the historic centre of Sevilla, see the sections below. In most cases they are names after their respective parish church or other building. Thus Museo is named after the Museo de Belles Artes, San Vicente is named after the Parish church of San Vicente, and so forth. Though this is not quite true in every case. Encarnación is named after the dedication of the Augustinian Convent that stood in the area for over 200 years until the nuns were expelled by Napoleonic forces and their convent demolished. They subsequently found a new home near the Cathedral where they now support themselves by making altar-breads (and selling the off-cuts as snacks!) but they left behind them a large empty square, La Plaza de la Encarnación. There was a market here for many years, but by the 2000s the plaza was a windswept eyesore popular with drug dealers. After a competition for proposals to renew the square, the winning design (the so-called Metropol Parasol — a series of giant, mushroom-like parasols) was inaugurated in 2011. Feria takes its name not from the famous Feria de Abril of Sevilla, but the more modest Thursday flea market which gave its name to the main thoroughfare of the barrio, Calle Feria. The current heart of the barrio, however, is the Alameda (meaning ‘poplar grove’), originally a public garden. Established in 1574, it is reckoned to be the oldest public garden in Spain, and in Europe. Though a fairly small piece of ground, the compact nature of Sevilla means that it is nonetheless the largest of the public spaces located in Casco Viejo. Like the Plaza de Encarnación, by the end of the 20th century, the Alameda had become a scruffy and down-at-heel place and unsafe at night. At the peak of trade there were 35 brothels in the square. Renovation works began in the

103 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: The Barrios of El Centro early 2000s, replanting trees and installing fountains. The area quickly attracted a hipster crowd who opened the sorts of bars that in the last decade have been persuading sevillanos to swap olive oil on their toast for avocado. The Alameda is a work in progress, but it is starting to look like the sort of stylish and pretty squares that the Spanish do so well. The aim of the city authorities is clear. Sevilla is frequently voted the world’s favourite city-break destination, but the sheer volume of tourists is overwhelming when 90% of them pack into a tiny area in a half mile radius around the Cathedral. If tourists can be persuaded to stay, eat and drink in the northern part of Centro, not just in Santa Cruz, then the city will spread the load, and continue to reap the very great economic benefits of tourism. Alfalfa — the barrio sandwiched between Santa Cruz to the south and Encarnación to the north, is named after the leguminous feed-crop alfalfa. This is not because the barrio was once open pasture, but because it has been the site of the city’s slaughter house and livestock markets and so required huge stores of alfalfa hay and silage. In Roman times the Alfalfa was the crossing point between the two main roads of the city: the Cardo Maximus running north-south and the Decumanus Maximus running east-west (the route of Decumanus is still obvious on the map of contemporary Sevilla — it is the main east-west traffic artery in the old city, running underneath the ‘parasols’ in the Plaza de la Encarnación. The Alfalfa was the area where temples, baths, public buildings and markets were located. During the Islamic occupation square now known as Plaza de la Alfalfa was the ‘Alcaicería’ or bazaar (you will see a well-preserved example in Granada), and even now this barrio has the greatest concentration of shops, and even conforms to the oriental custom of placing vendors of the same close to one another. With the reconquest, the units of the market was used as a food store for the animals of the meat market (which continued). In the sixteenth century it was used as a storehouse for the meat that arrived into the city, so it became the slaughterhouse (Carnicerías) of Sevilla, supplying the butchers around the city. The square as it is known today was born in 1820, when the huge 1545 slaughterhouse (many times larger than the current square) was demolished. Until very recently, a Sunday market of domestic animals was held in the Alfalfa, but it ended in 2005 after the EU prohibited such markets due to the risk of spreading bird flu.

104 Moverse — Getting around town: Moverse — Getting around town Moverse — Getting around town METRO Although first planned in the 1970s, the Sevilla Metro is only 10 years old and consists of a single line. Like most Spanish cities with a metro system, the main function of the Sevilla network is to connect far flung suburbs and dormitory towns with the city centre. Only Barcelona, Madrid and Valencia have inner city networks that might be compared to those in London, Paris or New York. Only a couple of the ‘city centre’ stations are in the historic centre (Prado de San Sebastián and Puerta de Jerez — both marked on the map). From here the metro goes through Nervión and to the eastern suburbs, and under the river to Los Remedios and onwards to the western suburbs. The metro is a boon for urban sevillanos commuting to work or coming in to enjoy the central bars and restaurants, but it is of little practical use for tourists staying in the centre. A single ticket for the central zone costs €1.35 (return €2.70). The tarjeta multiviaje bus/tram pass is not valid. TRAM Until 2007, the Gmunden Tram ‘network’ (a single line) in Austria was the shortest in the world, with a track length of 1.4 miles. Sevilla’s ‘MetroCentro’ tram (also a single line) is only 1.25 miles and runs between the San Bernardo local railway station and the Plaza Nueva, passing the Cathedral en route. Perhaps it hardly seems worth it but in the height of summer, when temperatures exceed 40°C, then the air-conditioned tram is a welcome escape from the searing heat, even over a short distance. Also, the Ayuntamiento announced in 2018 that work would soon begin on extending the line as far as Santa Justa. A single journey is €1.40 (or 69¢ with a ‘tarjeta multiviaje’ see p.106) BUS The labyrinthine medieval street-plan of Centro renders it unsuitable for buses, or indeed motor vehicles of any kind. However, there are many bus routes serving the perimeter road around Centro as well as the east-west road which divided the northern and southern parts (the old Decumanus Maximus). A

105 Moverse — Getting around town: Bus tiny minibus (b the C5) takes 50 minutes to navigate the narrow streets of the interior of Centro — and this can be a good way to spend an hour exploring the city if you are unlucky enough to find yourself in Sevilla on a rainy day. In fact, even if it is not a rainy day, the C5 is a good way to have a cheap (69¢) tour of the city which will take you past many of the major sites (the big red tourist bus costs €21 — 30 times the price of any single bus journey). In the text below, attractions where travelling by bus may save time have been indicated with the b symbol. TARJETA MULTIVIAJE The Tussam (Municipal Transport System) ‘Tarjeta Multiviaje’ (multi-journey card) is used in the same way as an Oyster Card in London. The minimum recharge is €7, up to a maximum of €50 (€7 buys ten journeys, which would cost €14 if purchased individually). This can be done at the ticket machines at any tram (MetroCentro) stop, or at any tobacconist (‘Estanco’) and most newspaper kiosks (‘kioskos’); in total around 700 establishments in Sevilla. Upon boarding a tram or bus, tap the card on the reader, which will beep to show a single fare has been deducted. If more than one person is travelling on the same card, tap again. Buses must be boarded by the front door near the driver — the rear door(s) are exit-only. Trams may be boarded by any door and there are readers at each. TAXI UBER now operates in Sevilla, so this is probably the easiest way to order a taxi. If you want to book ahead, then ask the hotel to do it for you. Otherwise there are plenty of taxi ranks (‘paradas’ — bus and tram stops are also called paradas). The nearest to the Hotel Rey Alfonso X is opposite the Santa María La Blanca church. Others tend to be outside the major hotels (Alfonso XIII, Inglaterra, etc.), in the larger plazas (Encarnación, Alfalfa, Nueva, etc.), around the Cathedral (Calle Alemanes, Calle Mateos Gago), and of course at the rail and bus stations. By UK standards, taxis are relatively cheap, reliable and all have meters.

106 Moverse — Getting around town: Bicycle

BICYCLE

Sevici Sevici is a bicycle rental programme operated by the Sevilla City Hall (Ayuntamiento). en.sevici.es/ The name is quite neat, a combination of SEVilla and the standard word for bike — bICI. This works particularly well because in castellano, a ‘V’ is pronounced like a ‘B’ — seh-biTHi. It offers thousands of three-speed unisex bikes at hundreds of stations or service points scattered around the city. The bicycles have a very easy gear change and the seat height is easily adjustable without tools. You can pick up a bike at any Sevici station and return it at any other. You can check an updated map with the current situation at each station at the official website: en.sevici.es/Estaciones/Map You can rent Sevici bicycles using any credit card. Each station has a main kiosk from which you can carry out several tasks (instructions are in several languages). • Select and rent a bike. • Purchase a Short Term Subscription. • Get a printed receipt with your chosen route. • Check on a map the closest taking or returning posts. • Increase your Sevici credit with your credit card. Subscribing A short-term subscription lasts for 7 consecutive days and you have unlimited access to the bicycles, 24 hours a day. The registration fee is €13.33 (€14.33 with insurance) that you’ll have to pay with your credit card. NOTE: You will need to authorise Sevici to handle a €150 euro deposit per subscription. This deposit will be fully refunded once the subscription expires provided the bikes have not been damaged. However, this is the reason that I have never rented a bicycle in Sevilla! The subscription will be refunded to you after 7 days, but the small print warns that this may take ‘up to 3 days’ and, ‘in exceptional cases’ … ‘please allow up to 14 days’. I suppose that is okay for a

107 Moverse — Getting around town: Bicycle credit card, but as a Debit Card user, that represents a significant slice of cash to be missing from my current account! Taking A Bike You will always need to carry the subscription card. First, identify yourself by placing the card next to the card reader. If you see it doesn’t work or doesn’t recognise it, you can always enter your subscription code manually. Then, confirm you are the card holder entering your PIN code. Once you access the ‘Select a bike’ menu, pick one. You have 1 minute to go to the dock and unlock the bike. And off you go. Returning A Bike Once you are at the station and you are done with your bike, go to an empty dock. Place it correctly. You will see a light flashing and hear a ‘beep’ confirming that the bike has been returned. But make sure that you have followed the procedure correctly! Sometimes, the traffic prevents you from hearing anything, especially the short ‘beep’. So check twice that you have locked it correctly at the dock or bike post. Otherwise, the system will not register it and it will assume that you are still using the bike… charging you an additional fee and even a penalty. You’ll be required to supply credit-card information before taking a bike so charging you these fees and penalties is very easy… Fares The first half hour is free. The next hour (after the free 30 minutes elapsed) is €1.03 and the subsequent hours are €2.04 each. Tips 1. Remember that it is forbidden to ride a bike in the pedestrian streets of the city centre between 10am and 10pm. In practice, that means most of the Barrio Santa Cruz is out of bounds. But a bike is a good way to explore the rest of Centro — the Arenal, Museo, Triana and almost all roads in the northern half. 2. If you are far away from your destination your ride can be free with a little planning. First, have a look at the stations along your route.

108 Moverse — Getting around town: Bicycle

Check for a station that is less than a 30-minute ride away from your starting point. Get there, drop the bike, rent a new one for free and keep going. Repeat the procedure until you get to your destination, for free! 3. You can use this ‘less-than-30-minute’ system to explore the whole city, stopping to look at the sights, have lunch, etc. All at no (extra) cost. You can use a journey planner: cycle.travel/map or simply explore — keeping an eye out to ensure that you are on a street open to traffic! To download a PDF of dedicated (traffic free) cycle-highways: bit.ly/sevillabici ALTERNATIVES TO SEVICI If you want to cycle around Sevilla on a better bicycle, or avoid having to pay a deposit which may be held for considerably longer than a week, then a number of places in Sevilla will hire bikes by the hour or day. Three bike hire shops are within 10 minutes’ walk of the Hotel Rey Alfonso X, all with good reviews:

Oh My Bikes! SANTA CRUZ | Av. de Menéndez Pelayo, 11 | Daily 1000-1400 & Mon-Fri 1800-2100 | ohmybikes.com/en/ | +34 622 11 35 39 | €16 per day Bike Center Sevilla In addition to simple bicycle hire, Bike Center also run daily bike tours costing €25 p.p. — at 1030 daily and lasting 2.5 hours. SANTA CRUZ | Paseo de Catalina de Ribera (Murillo Gardens) | Daily 1000- 2000 | sevillabikecenter.es/en/ | €15 per day Rent A Bike Sevilla Rent A Bike also offer bike tours. €25 p.p. lasting 3 hours, daily at 1000. SANTA CRUZ | Plaza de Santa Cruz, 4 | 1000-2000 | rentabikesevilla.com/en | €15 per day

109 Moverse — Getting around town: On Foot

ON FOOT The easiest way to explore the Centro district of Sevilla is on foot. However, although the average temperature for May is around 20°C, it frequently reaches the high twenties and the highest recorded May temperature was 41°C. Therefore, it is worth planning your day so that you do not need to walk long distances during the hottest part of the day (1400-1700). Also, whilst rainfall is all but unknown between June and August, Sevilla experiences 3 or 4 rainy days during May. This is when you will find the bus handy. The low contrast display used by Google Maps is its chief deficiency, and especially in bright sunlight, this can make it difficult to use smartphone maps to follow walking routes. Pick up a free street map from your hotel reception, or from a Oficina de Turismo and use this. You can write on it and scrunch it into your pocket, then pick up a fresh copy later. However, the companion Google Map should be useful when used with GPS as it will show which sights, bars, etc. are nearby, wherever you are in the city. Due to the narrow streets, walking is the only way to explore the barrio of Santa Cruz. I would therefore suggest considering a walking tour, perhaps on your first morning in Sevilla. You do not need a guided tour to discover the Cathedral or the Bullring, at least not when you have the luxury of a few days in Sevilla, but the Judería are of Santa Cruz is such a maze that having a guided tour can be a very helpful way of getting your bearings. Most walking tours are run by young people and students and are advertised as being ‘free’. In other words, payment is by voluntary donation at the end of the tour. Some of the big companies (Pancho, Sandeman, etc.) offer ‘free’ tours, but I would steer clear of these because they tend to take quite a large cut of the ‘tips’ (which are therefore not, strictly speaking, gratuities). There are lots of small companies based in Sevilla to choose from. How much to pay? One of the companies listed below quotes a rate of €60 for a bespoke tour for a small group, suggesting that €40 per hour is considered a reasonable rate of remuneration. So if your group is a dozen strong then €5 per person would be fair, and €10 or more quite generous.

We Are Sevilla A (90 mins) tour of the Judería daily at 1305

110 Moverse — Getting around town: On Foot

ARENAL | Meeting Point: Torre del Oro, Paseo de Cristóbal Colón | Red Umbrella | weareSevilla.com/evening-free-tour/ | [email protected] | 1305 | 90 mins Heart of Sevilla A (90 mins) tour of the Judería at (Daily) 1230, 1630 and (Sat-Sun) 2100. The same small company also offers tours of Triana and the area around the Alameda and the Basilica de Macarena. SANTA CRUZ | Fountain, Plaza Virgen de Los Reyes (behind the Giralda) | Red Umbrella | heartofsevilla.com/en/tours/misterios-y-leyendas-de- santa-cruz/ | 1230, 1630 & (Sat Sun) 2100 | 90 mins Sevilla Free Tours Another 90 minute tour of the Judería. Daily at 1700. Booking by email is required. SANTA CRUZ | Fountain (Fuente de Híspalis), Puerta de Jerez | Yellow Umbrella | freetoursevilla.es/en/tour/sevilla/3/free-tour-misterios-de- santa-cruz | 1700 | 90 mins Other Free Tours https://www.freetour.com/Sevilla is a website that allows one to search (and book) free tours offered by a number of companies. OTHER OPTIONS Horse and carriage rides are popular throughout Andalucía. In Sevilla they ply for trade behind the Cathedral, in the Plaza Nueva and in the Plaza de España (all places that feature in their standard ‘sightseeing route’). The owners and operators are mainly gitanos (gypsies) who go from town to town according to the cycle of local fairs. During the feria, the most stylish way to arrive at the recinto ferial or the bullring is by horse and carriage and the carriage drivers will be wearing full andaluz riding gear of high-waisted trousers, short jacket and wide-brimmed hat. But for the rest of the year most customers are tourists and ‘Paco’ will be in his flat cap and cardigan.

111 Moverse — Getting around town: Other options

The prices are regulated by the ayuntamiento and until recently a 45 minute ride cost €45, but it seems that this may recently have increased (either costing more, or the same price for only 30 minutes). The horses are generally well cared for and examined by vets employed by the municipality. At each ‘rank’ there will be a sign showing the official tariff.

Hacer turismo — Sightseeing A WALK AROUND SEVILLA This is not proposed to you as an actual walk, although it would certainly be possible to follow it as one. This is intended more as an imaginative journey through the city, picking out the main points of interest and importance. The one part of the city that not even the laziest tourist will miss is the southeastern corner of the old town taken up by the Cathedral, the Alcázar and their immediate surroundings. The Cathedral itself is so vast and so filled with treasures that at least a couple of hours should be set aside to see it (although I maintain that if a visitor were forced to choose, then the Alcázar should be the priority). The main entrance portal, the Puerta Mayor, is on the cathedral's western facade, and is adorned with naturalistic late 15th-century carvings by Pedro Millán and Lorenzo Mercadante, who were also responsible for the carvings on the two flanking portals (the Puertas del Bautismo and del Nacimiento); early 16th-century carvings by Miguel Perrin decorate the portals of the eastern facade, while the northern Puerta del Perdón (the entrance to the Patio de los Naranjos — the patio of orange trees that was once the area used for ritual ablutions in Moorish times) is a superb example of mudéjar craftsmanship incorporating elements of the original Almohad mosque (mudéjar is a Spanish architectural style that draws upon Moorish motifs; it means, literally, ‘domesticated’). The tourist entrance to the cathedral is now through a door next to the Giralda (‘weather-cock’) bell tower, on the building's northeastern side. This is the world’s largest Cathedral — St Peter’s in Rome is larger, but not a Cathedral. Once inside, it is easy to become disoriented in the cavernous gloom, and much persistence and good eyesight are needed to track down the numerous scattered works by artists such as Pedro de Campaña, Alejo Fernandez,

112 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: A Walk around Sevilla

Morales, Murillo, Zurbarán, Valdés Leal, Juan de Arce and Martínez Montañes, The one unavoidable work is the late gothic high altar, begun in 1482 by Dancart and said to be the largest and most elaborate in Spain. A selection of paintings, including one by Goya, has been gathered together in the Sacristía de los Calices on the southern side of the cathedral. Adjoining this, and far too rarely visited, are the Sacristía Mayor and the oval Chapter House, two impressive renaissance structures designed by the great Diego de Siloe. The sevillianos, like most andaluces, manage to be both somewhat secular and anti-clerical and borderline religious maniacs. While generally critical of the functions that take place within the cathedral, they are enamoured of the building, and think that its one ugly feature is the crocodile carcass (known as el legarto or 'the lizard’) that hangs, curiously, in a side chapel off the Patio de los Naranjos. They are not too keen either about climbing their beloved Giralda, and have the morbid reputation for doing so only when they want to commit suicide; the view of Sevilla from the top of this former minaret is in fact well worth the climb, though an easier option is nowadays the Metropol Parasol to the north, which has a lift. In between the cathedral and the Alcázar is the former Exchange or Lonja, an austere late 16th century building now housing the Archivo de las Indias (a selection of old documents about Spain's colonial empire is always on show here). The Alcazar and its gardens are entered via the Puerta del León, near the Plaza del Triunfo. The Alcázar overlooks the east of the Barrio de Santa Cruz, which was once the city's Jewish quarter, and is as much of a showpiece as is Córdoba’s Judería, but with fewer of the latter's offending tourists shops. With its maze of narrow streets, white walls covered in flowers, elegant black balconies (in Spain, one should always look up — buildings which are unimpressive at ground level might be magnificent in their higher storeys) and pervasive smells of jasmine, this is exactly how Romantic travellers liked to picture Sevilla, and it is appropriate that one of the squares has been given a statue of Don Juan Tenorio. At the heart of this district is Leonardo de Figueroa's Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes, a late 17th-century hospice that has recently been restored to its original shining whiteness; the rooms around its ceramic-lined courtyard are now used for temporary art exhibitions. But the tourists who come to the Barrio de Santa Cruz are mainly happy to wander around the well-

113 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: A Walk around Sevilla kept streets, stopping only to sit outside at bars and restaurants frequented almost exclusively by other tourists. The church of Santa Maria la Blanca, on the northern edge of the Barrio, was originally a synagogue, and has a gothic west portal surviving from this building; the interior was radically altered in an exuberant baroque style in the 1650's and has two outstanding canvases by Murillo. Also contained at one time within the old Jewish quarter was the nearby Calle Levies, on which stands the Palacio de Miguel Mañara of Don Juan fame, and the Carbonería, a spacious bar which has played an important role in Sevilla's cultural life, and where you can hear flamenco every Thursday night (and by ‘night’ I do mean ‘night’ — sessions rarely get going until after midnight). North of the Barrio de Santa Cruz the architecture of Sevilla retains many of the Barrio's features but becomes increasingly run-down. In the Calle Marmoles stand, above a stagnant rubbish-strewn pool, three enormous columns, the main survival of Roman Sevilla. Further north you are in the district known as the ALFALFA, which has, at Calle Boteros 26) one of Sevilla's most unusual bars, the Garlochi. This late-night bar is distinguished by a remarkable baroque decoration of flowers and religious images that changes according to the festive season; no blasphemy is intended in the cocktails bearing such names as ‘Blood of Christ. East of here is the 17th-century Convento de San Leandro, where you can buy famous candied egg yolk sweets known as Yemas. Walking from the convent east towards the Ronda (inner ring road), you will reach after a few minutes the Casa de Pilatos, the most remarkable of Sevilla's renaissance palaces. In the streets immediately to the north of the cathedral are a whole series of animated bars, including the Casa Bar Robles, well known for its tapas (good, but not cheap), and Antigüedades, the façade of which was once adorned with ghoulish maquettes, but now looks slick and stylish. The main street leading north from the cathedral is the wide Avenida de la Constitución, which ends by the town's plateresque (lit. ‘in the style of beaten silver’) Ayuntamiento or Town Hall. West of this street is the ARENAL barrio where we find Mañara's Hospital de la Caridad and, on the Guadalquivir, the Almohad Torre de Oro (now a small maritime museum), the new, gasometer-shaped Teatro de la Maestranza (its austere walls hide an beautiful and exciting interior), and the 18th-century Maestranza itself or (The Bullring).

114 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: A Walk around Sevilla

The square on the western side of the Town Hall, the Plaza Nueva, is large and characterless, but that on the eastern side, the Plaza San Fernando, has considerable charm and elegance. When walking through this square — which often hosts handicrafts markets or book fairs — one might pause to wonder where all the parked cars are in the centre of Sevilla. The answer is that they are beneath your feet. Except in out-of-town retail parks, multi-storey carparks are unknown in Spain; instead they dig down. Practically every plaza of any size, as well as the riverside and some of the parks, will have vast and sometimes multi-level car parks beneath them. North from this square is a pedestrian shopping district comprising several streets, the main street of which is the narrow and lively Calle Sierpes (‘serpent street’), shaded in the summer by awnings. Walking along this you should turn west down the Calle Jovellanos to see the small Capilla de San José, which has one of the more elaborate late baroque altars in Andalucía. Turning east along the Calle Sagasta you will come to the delightful Plaza del Salvador, dominated by the large early 17th-century church of the same name; in a side chapel is a celebrated polychromed statue of Christ Carrying the Cross by Martínez Montañes, a monument to whom is in the middle of the square. The square has several bars with outdoor terrazas, including the bar La Alicantina, one of the most pleasant places to sit outside in Sevilla, and an establishment famous for its justifiably expensive seafood tapas. Continuing north along the Calle Sierpes, turn east on to the short Calle Cerrajería, at the end of which, on the corner with Calle Cuna, you will find the Edificio Ciudad de Londres, a turn-of-the-century Moorish pastiche by the architect responsible for Sevilla's Hotel Alfonso XIII, José Espiau y Muñoz. Calle Cuna, which means ‘cradle street’ and runs parallel with the Calle Sierpes, is true to its name, consisting of shops selling mainly bridal attire and babies’ clothes. At Calle Cuna 8 is the Palacio Lebrija, an 18th-century palace incorporating in its three patios magnificent Roman mosaics pilfered from the nearby ruined town of Italica. The Calle Sierpes comes to an end at the Campana, around which are a number of Sevilla's large shopping stores. The Campana forms part of a long thoroughfare which extends west to the Puente de Isabel II and east to the Ronda (i.e. the Roman Decumanus Maximus); it effectively divides the northern and southern halves of Sevilla's old town. To the south west of the Campana, going towards the river, is the profusely marbled and polychromed Church of the Magdalena by Leonardo de

115 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: A Walk around Sevilla

Figueroa, and the city's Museo de Bellas Artes, the best in Spain outside the Prado and housed in the attractive early 17th-century Convent of La Merced. Having been scandalously closed for unnecessarily protracted restoration this place has now partly redeemed itself with its new and spacious layout, which makes the most of the cheerful and colourful architectural setting, and allows for a particularly dramatic display in the large and sumptuous convent church: Though the Velázquez holdings are meagre, the other sevilliano School artists are well represented, above all Zurbarán, whose series of canvases from the city's Charterhouse (Cartuja) provide the place with its artistic climax; all that is lacking in the new highly selective display is the exuberant chaos of 19th- and 20th-century works that lent so much character to the old museum. To the east of the Campana is the 16th-century University Church (La Iglesia de la Anunciación), where you can admire in its spacious, simple interior two exquisitely carved Italian renaissance tombs by the obscure Genoese artists Antonio Aprile and Pace Gagini; the church has also a monument to the poet Gustavo Adolfo Becquer, who, together with his painter brother Valeriano, is buried in the crypt here. The Plaza de la Encarnación, in the corner of which the church stands, was until recently a featureless and slightly shabby square containing a market and a terminus for Sevilla's buses. It is now occupied by what is likely to remain — during the after-ripples of Spain’s economic crisis — Sevilla's last major example of modern architectural extravagance: a giant, honey-combed and undulating canopy-like structure resembling, and popularly known as, Las Setas, ‘the Mushrooms’, designed by the German architect Jürgen Mayer, and the subject of intense criticism, it is a spectacular piece of organic design that has managed to revitalise the whole area. Much of it is taken up by a shopping centre, but there are also an ‘Antiquarium’ (containing Roman finds uncovered during the construction work), a panoramic gastro-bar, and a rooftop walk offering some of the finest views to be had of Sevilla. Further east, past the rather quieter and more pleasant Plaza de Cristo de Burgos, is the church of Santa Catalina, which has much 14th-century mudéjar work as well as a lavishly baroque 18th-century Sagrario chapel. The Bar El Rinconcillo, facing the church on the Calle Gerona, is a famous bar with a splendid interior which has remained virtually unchanged since the late 19th century.

116 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: A Walk around Sevilla

The northern and traditionally poorer half of Sevilla's old town attracts far fewer visitors than the southern half, but has nonetheless numerous fascinating monuments and corners. Heading north from Santa Catalina, you soon reach the attractively simple medieval church of San Marcos, the parish of which was once largely made up of gypsies; the gypsies still identify with this district and often crowd to its bars. It is typical of the great contrasts that are to be found in Sevilla that immediately to the west of San Marcos are the vast 18th-century palace and gardens, which until her death in 2014, belonged to the wealthiest and most distinguished of the city’s aristocrats, the Duchess of Alba (a woman who held over 40 hereditary titles). Behind the church to the east are grouped the 15th-century Convents of Santa Isabel and Santa Paula. The latter's church is entered through a large, pleasantly rustic courtyard, one of many such places in Sevilla where you suddenly feel far away from any city; the west portal has a polychrome renaissance lunette by the Florentine Niculoso Pisano. Santa Paula is the only enclosed convent in Sevilla that can be officially visited, and the nuns take it in turns to show members of the public their small, atmospheric museum of ecclesiastical bric-a-brac. Perhaps one of the best reasons to visit this convent is to buy the nuns' delicious home-made marmalade and other jams, many made from unusual fruits like fig, kiwi and melon. The church of San Luis (of France), one of the most exciting buildings by Leonardo de Figueroa, is reached by continuing north from the church of San Marcos. The pompous exterior, imitating that of San Agnese in Rome, offers little hint of the colour and ornamental vitality of the interior, which is now attached to a drama school and has regular opening hours (p.150). Continuing north, through a once exclusively working class area famous for its popular traditions, you reach the Basilica where the celebrated processional image of the Macarena is kept. It adjoins the largest stretch of the town's old walls. Outside the walls, facing the chapel across a large square, is the enormous 16th century Hospital of the Five Wounds (Cinco Llagas), which has been converted into the seat of the Andalucían Parliament. Back again inside the city walls you should explore the part of the city which lies to the west of the street running between the Macarena and Santa Catalina. Due west of the church of San Marcos is the Calle Feria, which has a lively flea-market on Thursday mornings, as well as a large indoor market which boasts bars and cafes among all the seafood, meat and vegetables. The flea-

117 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: A Walk around Sevilla market now extends to the west of here to the long 18th-century promenade known as the Alameda de Hércules, a once forlorn area next to a traditional red light district. The prostitutes have now gone, and the Alameda and its surroundings have been transformed out of all recognition, with the Alameda itself being pedestrianized, lined with smart open-air bars, and adorned with designer street lights, water features, and modern structures in questionable taste. West of the Alameda, you find yourself in the Barrio de San Lorenzo, one of the most pleasant residential districts of Sevilla; the large neoclassical Basilica del Jesús del Gran Poder adjoining the Church of San Lorenzo houses Roldán's celebrated processional image of the Christ of the ‘Great Power’ — one of the most iconic depictions of Christ in Spanish tradition. North of this church, at the northern end of the Calle Santa Clara is one of the most remarkable of Sevilla's forgotten monuments, the 14th-century Tower of Don Fadrique, which stands in peaceful, enchanting grounds attached to the former convent of Santa Clara. A few minutes walk away is the (former) Royal Monastery of San Clemente, a 13th-century foundation remodelled in the late 16th century, and given its present main cloister in 1632; the building was completely renovated in connection with the EXPO, and has been used since then as a place for art exhibitions. On its western side it faces a part of Sevilla that will be initially unrecognizable to anyone who has not been back to the city since 1992. The once seedy Calle Torneo, where a stagnant branch of the Guadalquivir used to come to an end amidst defaced walls and railway sidings, has been transformed into an elegant, designer-lit thoroughfare running alongside a freely flowing river. On summer nights the street has now become a haunt of the city's young, who flock to its many open-air bars or ‘kioscos’. Directly opposite the monastery are the EXPO grounds, which are accessible from here by crossing the Puente de la Barqueta. This bridge is popularly known as the Puente del Lepero in reference to the Andalucían town that features in so many local jokes. It has has the form of a poised crossbow, and has already become as much a symbol of the new Sevilla as the Giralda was of the old. Equally iconic (now) is the bridge to the north by the Swiss-based Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, which is perhaps the greatest architectural legacy of the EXPO. The Puente del Alamillo, is an enormous, daringly angled structure that was originally planned to counterbalance a similarly shaped bridge on the other side of the EXPO grounds.

118 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: A Walk around Sevilla

The vast space once occupied by the EXPO now features some desultory public gardens a white elephant of a hotel (the Hotel EXPO), and a Cruzcampo brewery. Most of the pavilions, including Nicholas Grimshaw’s much praised British pavilion, were taken down after 1992, and the space was converted into what the EXPO had best functioned as — an amusements park. The park was closed down in the summer of 1995 but a southern section of it was reopened as Isla Magica — a theme park incorporating the finally unveiled Pavillion of Discoveries (the fire damage to which had not been repaired in time for the EXPO) and the famous 16th-century Charterhouse, which had lain romantically abandoned for many years before being radically restored to house, during the EXPO, an ambitious exhibition devoted to world art in 1492. The Charterhouse, with its associations with Columbus and Zurbarán, still retains its surrounding conical chimneys dating from the place's conversion in the 19th century into a ceramics factory founded by the Englishman Charles Pickman: workers in this factory were sometimes referred to as Cartujanos or 'Carthusians', which explains the popular sevillana (folk song) that opens with the apparently baffling (or scandalous) words, ‘My boyfriend is a Carthusian’. The evocatively named Puente del Cristo de La Expiración (Bridge of Christ’s Final Breath) links the Charterhouse with the southern end of the Calle Torneo, near where the street joins up with the Plaza de Armas: here you will find a new-ish bus station and, across the road, the neo-Moorish Estación de Córdoba, a former 19th-century railway station which was turned in 1992 into yet another exhibitions venue, and it now a shopping centre. Further south is the Puente de Isabel II (commonly known as the Puente de Triana), an elegant 19th-century ironwork bridge that acquires a special beauty during the Semana Santa, when the much venerated image of the Virgin of Esperanza is carried across it. On its western side, and considered by some a separate township from Sevilla, is the former fishing and gypsy district of Triana from the embankment of which are beautiful views across the river to the Maestranza the Torre de Oro and the Giralda. The district is no longer the poor ramshackle place it used to be, and indeed becomes increasingly smart the further south you walk in the direction of the modern district of Los Remedios. The main street crossing though the northern half of Triana is the Calle Castilla, which passes at its northern end the ugly neoclassical church of Nuestra Señora de la ‘O’ — worth a visit only for its famous processional image of the Dead Christ. This much loved work, carved in 1682 by Francisco

119 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: A Walk around Sevilla

Ruiz Gijón, is known popularly as the Christ of ‘El Cacharro’, and was reputedly inspired by the dead body of a handsome gypsy singer who had been killed in a street brawl outside the church. On the other side of the street to the church, at the northern end, is the Sol y Sombra, one of the city's outstanding tapas bars. The Calle Castilla leads south towards the Plaza de Altozano, next to which is the Mercado de Triana, occupying the site of the notorious Castle San Jorge, once the seat of the Inquisition. One can see the remains of the Castle in a small exhibition space inside the market. Opposite the market is a handsome turn-of-the-century shop decorated with and selling the elaborate tiles and ceramics for which Triana is traditionally famous. The Calle Betis, which hugs the riverside in between the Puente Isabel II and the Puente San Telmo, is the fashionable heart of present-day Triana, lined with bars and restaurants. South of the Puente de San Telmo, on the Sevilla side of the river, is a spacious, luxurious area of town incorporating the Parque Maria Luisa, the luxury Hotel Alfonso XIII, and the eclectic pavilions constructed for the Ibero- American exhibition of 1929; two of the architectural pastiches in the park contain, respectively, the city’s very enjoyable ethnography museum, the Museum of Popular Art and Customs (in the Mudéjar Pavilion) and the extensive Archaeological Museum (in the Renaissance Pavilion), the latter boasting a most striking horde of Tartessian jewellery from Carambolo. On either side of the Hotel Alfonso XIII are the Old Tobacco Factory and the 18th- century Palace of San Telmo, the frontispiece of which is one of the most elaborate of Leonardo de Figueroa's works.

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121 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical and Cult/ural Sites

HISTORICAL AND CULT/URAL SITES

Feria de Abril LOS REMEDIOS | Calle Juan Belmonte | 1330/1700-0300 This, if I may say so, should be your priority upon your second night in Sevilla. Even if you just visit briefly and make a brief circuit of the Recinto Ferial (Fair Ground), you will witness something that very few visitors do. Besides, the finale fireworks at midnight on Saturday night mean that there is little point trying to get an early night! Every village, town and city in Spain will celebrate a feria (fair). Usually, it will be connected to the patronal or local feast of the locality — in Sevilla there are two city-wide ferias — the Feria de Abril just after Easter, and the Feria de San Miguel at the end of September. Some ferias will last a day, some a weekend or a couple of days, and some major league players will last a full week (or octave). All the big cities have week-long ferias — Madrid (May, San Isidro), Bilbao and Málaga (August, Assumption), Granada (May/June, Corpus Christi), Jerez (the day after the Sevilla Feria ends), Barcelona (Easter Week), etc. But none compares to Sevilla. The post-Easter Feria of Sevilla (an opportunity for the citizens to let down their hair after the penitential excesses of Holy Week) is the most elegant and refined of all; but at the same time, it is also the most fun- filled and exuberant. It is also the most beautiful. Spaniards, as you will see, are stylish and smart. Should you see shorts, t-shirts or jogging bottoms then these will either belong to tourists or ‘eccentrics’. Spanish men are fond of wearing jackets and ties (morning dress is still regularly worn by parliamentarians, even the Socialists), and Spanish women are fond of observing that one can ‘never have too many scarves’.

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At the Feria, this sartorial concern notches up a gear. Women wear flamenco dresses, mantillas and silk shawls. Those men not wearing a simple suit might go for the full Andalucían riding fig of ‘traje corto’ — high-waisted trousers, short jacket and wide-brimmed hat, known as a cordobés. Those who can afford it will arrive in a horse-drawn carriage, and some will pitch up on horseback. This is an important week for gypsy carriage drivers, who will earn up to a quarter of their annual salary in these seven days. The fairground is divided in two. In the western part there is a fun-fair — mainly enjoyed by young people and families. But the eastern half is a vast precinct covering a square mile, consisting of around over 1000 marquees known as casetas (‘little houses’). Almost all of these are private, and the owners pay over €1000 for the privilege of renting them for the week. But even as a spectator, they are a pleasure to see. Come evening, each will be filled with dozens, even hundreds, of sevillanos, eating, drinking and dancing. The dancing is very important, and to foreigners it looks like flamenco, but it is not. What they are dancing are Sevillanas — a stylised version of flamenco that can be managed by non-gypsies. The feria starts to get going in a lazy, slightly restrained way, around lunch time (1330). It gets busier from around 1700, which is the traditional time to tapear (enjoy drinks and tapas), but the real fun starts from about 8pm, and after the corrida (bullfight). It is the penultimate bullfight of the feria and the plaza will be packed. The bulls will be from the Fuente Ymbro ranch, and the matadors are well-known: Antonio Ferrera, El Fandi and López Simón. The corrida begins at 1830 (and traditionally is the only thing in Spain that begins on time), so the streets around the Arenal, and the riverside aspect of the Maestranza bullring, from about 6pm, is a good place to soak up some of the atmosphere beforehand, and witness every section of sevillano society celebrating the fiesta nacional (as bullfighting is also known). The Recinto Ferial (fairground) is about 1½ miles from the Hotel Rey Alfonso X, around half an hour’s walk. Tussam (the Sevilla bus company) organises a special shuttle bus (the ‘Especial Prado-Feria’) which leaves from the Prado de San Sebastián. It runs, uninterrupted, from 12 noon on Friday until 0530 on Sunday morning and costs €1.60 (cash) or €1.50 (bus card multiviaje). Other buses serving the Triana and Los Remedios areas also run 24 hours a day during the Feria. Alternatively, if you are beginning your journey near the Bullring,

123 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical and Cult/ural Sites then take the b No. 41 from outside the Maestranza Theatre (in the direction of Tablada).

Both the b 41 and the b Especial take you to the main gate (or portada) of the Feria, which is always an impressive piece of scenery. This year the portada is a representation of the Casino of the 1929 Expo (now the Lope de Vega Theatre), decorated with 24,000 lights. Unlike at other ferias, the casetas in Sevilla are private, but there are a few public casetas, too. These are run by the municipality, unions and political parties. There should be a map of the casetas near the Feria entrance, and at other points, but I have marked the rough location on the companion Google Map. There are two “People’s Casetas with Free Entry”: • Calle Costillares, 13-17 • Calle Pascual Márquez, 225-227-229 The second of these, at Calle Pascual Marquez 225, is a Free Caseta especially for tourists. If you want to enjoy a glass of rebujito (a punch made from dry sherry, lemonade and lime, and the traditional drink of the Feria) then this is probably your best bet as there will be (or so it is promised) guides and information in different languages. At midnight, the Feria officially ends (though celebrations in the casetas will go on until dawn), and this is marked by a firework display. The Centro side of the river should give you the best view, but they should be visible from elsewhere too.

Reales Alcazares SANTA CRUZ | Entrance: Plaza del Trinufo | www.alcazarsevilla.org/en/ | 0930-1700 Usually referred to in the singular (Real Alcázar — Royal Citadel), it is actually a complex of several palaces, hence Reales Alcazares. Whether counted as one or many palaces, this is almost certainly the oldest continuously inhabited Royal Palaces in the world. This plot was occupied from the 8th century BC, and from the 1st century AD a Roman collegium was here — the early Visigothic Christian basilica of Saint

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Vincent was built on its ruins. Some pillars and capitals from the Visigothic church were used by Pedro I when he constructed his palace. The tombstone of the bishop Honorato, which was probably from this basilica, is currently in the cathedral. After the conquest of Sevilla by the Umayyad Caliphate in 712, the basilica was demolished to build the first military fortifications. It seems that it was a quadrangular enclosure, fortified, and attached to the (Roman) walls. During the period of the first Taifa kingdoms, various constructions were added, such as stables and warehouses. The citadel began to gain importance in the first half of the 12th century, under the Abbadid dynasty, when the space doubled due to the construction of a large palace called Al-Muwarak, under the current Patio de la Monteria, of which only some archaeological remains are preserved. Under the Almohads, during the caliphate of Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansur, new buildings for the residence of the Caliph and his court were erected. With the exception of the walls, the previous buildings were demolished, and twelve palaces constructed. Less well-known, and somewhat less ‘romantic’ than the Alhambra, the Alcázar is nonetheless a breathtaking place to visit, especially as it creates a sense of a peaceful oasis in the very centre of a busy city (whereas the Alhambra sit serenely on a hilltop).

Catedral de Santa María de la Sede The Largest Cathedral in the world SANTA CRUZ | Entrance: Puerta del Perdón, Calle Alemanes | www.catedraldesevilla.es/cultural-visit/ | Mon 1100-1530; Tue-Sat 1030- 1800; Sun 1400-1900 | €9

TICKETS: You have two options. Admission to the Cathedral also includes admission to the Collegiate Church of the Divine Saviour (‘San Salvador’), and vice versa. So you have two options, both of wish eliminate the need to queue: 1. Book online using the link above, choosing a timed slot for visiting the Cathedral. Then use your ticket to visit El Divino Salvador.

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2. Go first (early!) to the Church of the Salvador, where there are unlikely to be queues and buy a joint ticket (€9). After seeing the Salvador, have a coffee if you like, then head over to the Cathedral, bypassing the queues Ceteris paribus, I think the second option is preferable as it allows you slightly more flexibility.

The ‘Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See’ is the third-largest church in the world (though this depends upon whether one measures it by floor area or volume) as well as the largest Gothic church and largest cathedral. Unusually, for former mosques, it is not thought to have been the site of a significant Christian church prior to Moorish conquest, though given its huge size and proximity to the Visigothic basilica nearby, it would be surprising if there had not been at least a small chapel here. The Archbishop's Palace is located on the northeastern side of the cathedral. The Almohad caliph Abu Yaqub Yusuf ordered the construction of a new grand mosque for Sevilla in 1172. The new mosque was inaugurated in 1182, but was not completed until 1198. It supplanted the one built between 829 and 830 by Umar Ibn Adabbas on the site of the present-day collegiate church of San Salvador. Larger and closer to the city's Alcázar, the mosque was designed by the architect Ahmad ben Basso as a 113 x 135 m rectangular building with a surface of over 15,000 m², including a minaret and ablutions courtyard. Its prayer hall consisted of seventeen aisles oriented southward, perpendicular to its Qibla wall, in the manner of many mosques of Al-Andalus. Shortly after Sevilla's reconquest by Ferdinand III, Yaqub Yusuf's mosque was converted into the city's cathedral. Its orientation was changed and its spaces partitioned and adorned to suit Christian worship practices. The internal space was gradually divided into chapels by constructing walls in the bays along the northern and southern walls. Almost the entire eastern half of the cathedral was occupied by the royal chapel that would hold the bodies of Ferdinand, his wife and Alfonso the Wise.

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The Cathedral was then rebuilt, in part, to demonstrate the city's wealth, as it had become a major trading centre in the years after the Reconquista in 1248. In July 1401, the decision was taken to build a new cathedral to replace the grand mosque that had served as the cathedral until then. According to local oral tradition, a member of the cathedral chapter said, ‘Hagamos una Iglesia tan hermosa y tan grandiosa que los que la vieren labrada nos tengan por locos’ (‘Let us build a church so beautiful and so grand that those who see it finished will think us mad’). The actual entry from 8 July 1401, recorded among others by Juan Cean Bermudes in 1801 but now lost, proposed building ‘una tal y tan buena, que no haya otra su igual’ (‘one so good that none will be its equal’) Nonetheless, the builders preserved some elements from the ancient mosque. The mosque's sahn, that is, the courtyard for ablutions for the faithful to conduct their ritual cleansing before entering the prayer hall is known today as the Patio de los Naranjos (the Patio of the Orange Trees). It contains a fountain and, as one might expect from the name, orange trees. However, the most well known is its minaret, which was converted into a bell tower known as La Giralda: now the city's most well-known symbol, originally built to resemble the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech, Morocco. In the 16th century the belfry was added by the architect Hernán Ruiz the Younger; the statue on its top, called ‘El Giraldillo’ (the little weather-cock), was installed in 1568 to represent the triumph of the Christian faith.

Iglesia del Salvador Gilded Baroque in a square of seafood SANTA CRUZ/ALFALFA | Plaza del Salvador | iglesiadelsalvador.es | Mon- Sat 1100-1800, Sun 1500-1930 (ticket office closes 30 minutes before) | €4 (€9 with Cathedral see p.125) La Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador, to give it its full and proper title, is the second largest church in Sevilla, only the Cathedral being larger. The present building is in the baroque style, having been completed in 1712 after nearly forty years of work. Recently restored, the interior is ornate, with a magnificent gold altarpiece, and some important artworks. These include the two statues of the Christ that are used for the Semana Santa, El Cristo del Amor by Juan de Mesa, and Jesús de la Pasión by Martinez Montañes (there is a statue of Montañes in the Plaza outside).

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In the courtyard one can still see arches dating from the Moorish period, when the original Grand Mosque (built in 893) stood here, and also the minaret that forms the bottom two thirds of the bell tower. Although replaced as Grand Mosque in the 12th century (when the new Grand Mosque was built where the Cathedral is now) it is believed that it continued to be used as a mosque even after the reconquest. Eventually, having fallen into ruinous disrepair, it was demolished to make way for a new building. In Moorish times the area around the Mosque was an important commercial centre — a souk (or in castellano, ‘zoco’) particularly the Plaza Jesus de la PasiónPasion, popularly known as the Plaza del Pan (bread), the Alcaicería del Lozo (the pottery bazaar), and the Alfalfa. Even in modern times there is a row of small shops built into the side of the church in the Plaza del Pan. But the history of the site goes back even further, as is so often the case. The original building here was the Roman Temple, in time supplanted by a Visigothic church. The Plaza del Salvador has probably been a significant civic space since the building of the Roman wall in the time of Julius Caesar in the 1st century BC. The Roman forum was just a short distance away in what is now the Plaza Alfalfa. Other things to look out for include the Iglesia del Antigua Hospital de Nuestra Señora de la Paz on the opposite side of the square to the Salvador (in the 16th century it was a plague hospital), the Cervantes plaques in the Plaza del Pan and Alcaicería (both places mentioned by him in his novels), and Los Soportales, the columns supporting the houses in one corner of the square. This is a building style that has virtually disappeared, but was once common.

Torre de los Perdigones A bird’s eye view of roofs and towers MACARENA | Calle Resolana 41 | Tue-Sun 1130-1700 | €4 This is Sevilla’s Camera Obscura and, to be honest, a rather odd place. The website is offline at the moment, but the last TripAdvisor review was only a month ago, so I assume it is open and operating. It is is only a hundred metres from the Basilica of the Macarena at the northern end of Centro, so ideally placed to visit before or after. Tours are, as far as I recall every half hour, but if you arrive at the wrong time, then wander over to look at the Parliament

128 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical and Cult/ural Sites building (Cinco Llagas) or take some refreshment in one of the many bars nearby. It is rather a ‘touristy’ thing to do, but it is an experience which is genuinely fascinating. The man who operates the place is, I assume, somewhere on the autistic spectrum. He can be rather prickly and socially clumsy upon first meeting, but once he gets into his stride operating the periscope, he is warm, funny and extremely knowledgable. As attractions go, it’s also pretty cheap (€4). b To return to your hotel afterwards, you can take the C3 bus from the Resolana (Feria) stop 80m from the Camera Obscura, as far as Menéndez Pelayo (Puerta De La Carne). If you want to take the bus in the other direction, then take the C4 between the same stops (on the opposite side of the road, obviously).

Metropol Parasol (‘Las Setas’) The best views of Sevilla from some magic mushrooms ENCARNACIÓN | Plaza de la Encarnación | setasdesevilla.com/ | Mirador: Sun-Thu 0930-2300 | Fri-Sat 0930-2330 | Antiquarium: Mon-Sat 1000-2000 | Sun 1000-1400 These giant concrete and laminated wood ‘mushrooms’ form a 250 metre walkway some 28 metres above ground, offering excellent views of Sevilla. If you are heading into the northern part of Centro then you will be passing by here, so stop and take 20 minutes or so to have a look. People either love the mushrooms, or hate them. Having got over my initial shock upon seeing them for the first time, I am now firmly in the former category. But either way, it doesn’t much matter when the aim is to enjoy the view. A lift takes you to the mirador (or lookout deck) and tickets cost €3. This includes a choice of ‘complementary’ soft drink or small beer at the bar at the top. Additionally, for €2 more (or for just €2 if you don’t want to visit the mirador) you can see the Antiquarium exhibition of the Roman and Moorish remains uncovered during building works. These are considerably more extensive and better preserved than the solitary broken pillar and small patch of mosaic that one often finds on offer — in fact there are some 5000 square metres of

129 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical and Cult/ural Sites archeological remains here. I am no expert, but when I visited with a classicist friend a few years ago, she said that it was ‘one of the most fascinating minor sites’ she had seen. Maybe that’s damning with faint praise, but I enjoyed it!

Plaza España Spain making an elegant exhibition of itself EL PORVENIR | Av de Isabel la Católica / Parque María Luisa | 0800-2200 | Free The Plaza de España is a plaza in the Parque de María Luisa (see p.152), in Sevilla, Spain, built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. It is a landmark example of the Regionalism Architecture, mixing elements of the Renaissance Revival and Moorish Revival (Neo-Mudéjar) styles of Spanish architecture. Unlike any other ‘Plazas de España’ elsewhere in Spain, there are now shops, bars or restaurants here. It is an architectural monument, rather than an urban place of gathering. Designed by Aníbal González, it was built to showcase Spain's industrial and technological exhibits. It is a pastiche, but a bold and pleasing one. González combined a mix of 1920s Art Deco and Spanish Renaissance Revival, Spanish Baroque Revival and Neo-Mudéjar styles. The Plaza de España complex is a huge half-circle with buildings running around the edge accessible over the moat by numerous bridges representing the four ancient kingdoms of Spain. In the centre is the Vicente Traver fountain. Around the walls of the Plaza are tiled alcoves, each representing a different province of Spain. Each alcove is flanked by a pair of covered bookshelves. Today the Plaza de España mainly consists of Government buildings, and it has often been used as a filming location, notably for the 1962 film Lawrence of Arabia and, in 2002, Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones where is did duty as the City of Theed on the Planet Naboo.

Basílica de la Macarena Sevilla’s most beloved Virgin SAN GIL | Calle Bécquer 1 | Mon- Sat 0900-1400 & 1700-2100; Sun 0930- 1400 closed during mass (1015, 1215) | Free (Museum €5) | www.hermandaddelamacarena.es

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The Basilica of Santa María de la Esperanza Macarena (known popularly as the Basilica of the Macarena), is far from the most beautiful, or impressive, church in Sevilla. In fact it is is rather gaudy, was built in the 1940s and was only consecrated in 1966. And yet, it is in this church (along with Jesús del Gran Poder) that one would look to find Sevilla’s soul, and to understand the psyche of sevillanos. For this reason I include it in the ‘Main Sights’ section, rather than in the listing of churches. It is not the church that people come to see, but the image that it contains — a 17th century polychrome sculpture of Our Lady of the Hope of Macarena. If you have been in Sevilla for more than an hour, you will already have seen her image, for it is found — in miniature replica statues, paintings or faded postcards — in every bar in the city. But first, a little about the building. The building is the headquarters of the Hermandad (Brotherhood) of the Hope of Macarena, which has responsibility for one of the most solemn and beautiful processions of Semana Santa, in the small hours of Good Friday morning. The current church was built to to house the titular images of his brotherhood, which was kept in the parish church of San Gil (St Giles) before it was damaged by fire in 1936. Construction began in 1941, and it was consecrated by Cardinal José María Bueno Monreal, archbishop of Sevilla, on October 7, 1966. It is the work of the sevilliano architect Aurelio Gómez Millán: a small, single-nave building with side chapels. A bull of December of November of 1966, issued by Pope Paul VI, raised it to the dignity of a minor basilica. The altarpiece of the high altar is neo-baroque in style houses the eponymous Virgen de la Esperanza Macarena. It was made in 1949 by Juan Pérez Calvo and Rafael Fernández del Toro; the painting was executed by the Cádiz-born Luis Ortega Bru and the gold-work by Antonio Sánchez.

131 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical and Cult/ural Sites

The first chapel on the Gospel (left) side is intended for the worship of ‘Our Father Jesus of the Sentence’ (referring to Christ as ‘Our Father’ is a uniquely Spanish custom), a statue made by Felipe de Morales in 1654. In the chapel located to the right of the high altar is a statue of the Virgin of the Rosary with the Infant Jesus. The altar of ‘Hispanidad’ is the newest altarpiece located at the foot of the wall of the Epistle. It was consecrated in 1959 by Cardinal Bueno Monreal and was gifted by the Brotherhood in thanks to the people of South America whose donations had been crucial in the construction and embellishment of the basilica. You can see a painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe, patron saint of Mexico, which is the work of the painter Joseph Mota (1703) and and a gift from Feliciano Cortés, the abbot of the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico. The rest of the images are: Our Lady of Coromoto, patron of Venezuela; the Virgin of Caacupé, patron of Paraguay; Santa Rosa de Lima, patron of Peru; the Virgin of Divine Providence, patron of Puerto Rico; Our Lady of Luján, patron of Argentina; the Virgin of Chiquinquirá, patron of Colombia; Virgen del Quinche, patron of Ecuador; Our Lady of Carmen, patron of Chile and Our Lady of Altagracia, patron of the Dominican Republic. Since October 2009 it has been possible to visit a lovingly curated museum, the aim of which is to present a complete view of Holy Week in Sevilla through the liturgical and processional equipment that the brotherhood has treasured in its more than four centuries of existence. A charge is made to visit the museum (€5)

THE IMAGE María Santísima de la Esperanza Macarena Coronada (‘Most Holy and Crowned Mary of the Hope of the Macarena’) is the main ‘resident’ of the basilica. She is popularly known as ‘la Reina, Señora y Virgen’ (the Queen, Lady and Virgin) of Sevilla because of the great devotion and fervour she awakens among the people of Sevilla. There are many images of the Virgin all over Sevilla, and all of them enkindle great devotion. Some are associated with particular churches, parishes or brotherhoods. Some are associated with particular communities, such as gypsies, flamenco musicians or widows. Others are associated with professions such as fishermen, dockers, bullfighters or butchers. The Esperanza Macarena is as close to a universal image as Sevilla has, and she is honoured

132 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical and Cult/ural Sites not only in Sevilla, but throughout Spain (as the popularity of the girl’s name Esperanza attests). At times, the over-ripe Marian devotion of the sevillanos can seem almost superstitious, even to Catholics. Many of those openly weeping during Semana Santa after waiting in the pouring rain or searing heat for hours, just to glimpse Our Lady passing by, might not have been to mass for years and harbour rather anti-clerical opinions. Blasphemy about the Church or the clergy is one thing, but woe-betide anyone who dares to say that the Virgin of the Macarena is not the perfect vision of doleful beauty. I am reminded of a story told me by a friend who lived for a number of years in Sevilla. On Good Friday she, like thousands of others, waited for the paso (the enormous float carrying the image) to emerge from the basilica. When people caught the first glimpse, cries of ‘¡Qué guapa! ¡Qué belleza!’ (How gorgeous! What beauty!) went up. Then, one elderly lady in front of my friend turned to her friend and asked, ‘Did you see Our Lady of the ‘O’ yesterday?’ (Our Lady of the ‘O’ is an image of the Virgin revered in Triana). Quick as a flash, the friend answered, ‘¡Sí! ¡Fea, tan fea!’ (Yes I did. Ugly. So ugly!). The carving itself was made in the seventeenth century by an anonymous sculptor, although it has been attributed to various sculptors related to Pedro Roldán's workshop, among which his daughter — ‘La Roldana’ — stands out. It was canonically crowned in 1964. We only see La Macarena’s face and hands, so an important aspect of the ensemble is her clothing. Much of her vesture is over 100 years old, having been created by the embroiderer Juan Manuel Rodríguez Ojeda, who was member of the brotherhood. Between 1899 and 1900 he made a new mantle in gold and coloured silk thread with gold mesh on green velvet, popularly known as ‘El Camaronero’ because the embroidery was similar to the shape of shrimps (camarones) This mantle was exhibited for months in a shop window in the Calle Francos and several thousand sevillanos came to see it. The task of dressing the image (and thus seeing ‘her’ naked) is entrusted to nuns. Originally, the Macarena was depicted with seven daggers piercing her breast, but these were removed and replaced with the fine ‘emerald’ (actually green rock crystal) ‘mariquillas’, which were a gift from the bullfighter ‘Joselito el Gallo’. Joselito was both a bullfighter and a gypsy from near Triana so his devotion to the Macarena was two-fold. Actually, he was a member of the

133 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical and Cult/ural Sites brotherhood too, so it was three-fold. In 1913 he had paid for a gold crown, but the mariquillas (broaches) were to be his final gift. On 16 May 1920, at the tender age of 25, he was fatally gored in the ring at Talavera de la Reina, near Toledo. Rodriguez Ojeda dressed the image for the first and only time in black, as a sign of mourning and recollection. Photos of La Macarena dressed in the black of mourning are nowadays found in the chapels of every bullring in Spain. In the early days of the Second Spanish Republic (1931-39), many churches in Sevilla were sacked and priceless artworks destroyed so the sacristan of the Macarena moved the image of the Macarena to his house and put it in his bed, simulating a person. When night had fallen, he went to the San Fernando cemetery, claiming to be a stone-mason. The sacristan opened the tomb of Joselito el Gallo and interred the image, where she remained hidden for two months without anyone knowing her whereabouts. In the early morning of July 18, 1936, the date on which the coup d'état that gave rise to the Spanish Civil War took place, the church of San Gil was set alight. The intention had been to vandalise the images of the Brotherhood, but neighbours prevented this. One more, the Macarena ‘moved in’ with a member of the brotherhood, for safekeeping. In case you are wondering, the popular song by the cheesy pop-combo ‘Los Del Río’ has nothing to do with either the Virgin of the Macarena, or the Macarena district of Sevilla. The song originally referenced ‘Ma’dalena’ — that is, ‘Magdalena’ — a common shorthand for a fallen woman. It changed to ‘Macarena’ to make it easier to sing.

Basilica de Jesús del Gran Poder The iconic Spanish image of Christ SAN LORENZO | Plaza de San Lorenzo, 13 | www.gran-poder.es | Mon-Thu 0800-1330, 1730-2100 | Free Like the Basilica de la Esperanza Macarena, this is not an old or especially beautiful church. Once again, it is the devotional image that it contains; in this case the Jesús del Gran Poder (Jesus of Great Power). In 1992 Pope John Paul II gave the title of minor basilica to the Basilica of Jesus of Great Power, making it the second sevillano church to which the Holy See

134 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical and Cult/ural Sites granted this distinction. After the Great Power, two other churches have been named with the same title: The Basilica of Our Lady Help of Christians in 2008 and the Basilica of the Holy Christ of Expiration in 2012, both by Pope Benedict XVI. Next to the basilica is the far older parish church of San Lorenzo (13th century, see p.144), in the Gothic-Mudéjar style, which was significantly reformed in the 16th century. The Plaza de San Lorenzo in which both are situated was, in the time of the Moors, the ablution yard of a mosque (of which the old minaret remains) on which the parish church was built. Inside the basilica, the great dome and the shape of the room seem to be inspired by that of the Pantheon of Agrippa in Rome. The room has a circular shape without supporting elements, with a large entrance atrium, and a dome with large coffers. Inside the basilica the image of Jesus of the Great Power (with the cross on his shoulder), carved by Juan de Mesa in 1620, is venerated. Likewise, the images of San Juan Evangelista, also of Mesa in 1620, and an anonymous Virgin of the 18th century. These three figures form the brotherhood procession on Good Friday.

Hospital de la Caridad Don Miguel de Mañara’s Penitential Work of Mercy ARENAL | Calle Temprado 3 | www.santa-caridad.es | Mon-Sun 1030-1930 | (closed during Mass on Sunday 1230-1400) | €8 inc. Audioguide This convent, with its spectacularly gloomy and morbid art contemplating the fleeting nature of earthly life is often overlooked by tourists. The building dates from the seventeenth century and is the headquarters of a charitable institution supported by Miguel de Mañara, a reformed libertine and philanthropist who cared for the most disadvantaged. It was Mañara who inaugurated the Hospital's first infirmary in June 1674, explicitly intended to care for the poor. The Brotherhood of Holy Charity was founded in the middle of the 15th century. Its functions were to bring the sick to the hospital, spiritually assist prisoners who were condemned to death and give them burial, and to deal with the corpses left in the wake of the frequent floods of the Guadalquivir.

135 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical and Cult/ural Sites

The facade of the church is one of the great examples of sevilliano Baroque. In the upper sections are the patrons San Jorge and Santiago and the three theological virtues: Faith, Hope and Charity. In the lower part you can see the sculptures of two holy kings: Saint Ferdinand, King of Castile and Saint Louis, King of France. The decoration of the temple was also devised by Miguel de Mañara and Murillo, Pedro Roldán, Valdés Leal and Bernardo Simón de Pineda had a hand in its decoration . In the church are two great works by Valdés Leal: Finis gloriae mundi and In ictu oculi. The church is raised two metres above ground level in order to avoid the numerous floods and floods of the Guadalquivir that had caused the destruction of an earlier chapel (demolished in 1645). The hospital has three large rooms, which were built taking advantage of the Royal Shipyards of the time of Alfonso X ‘El Sabio’. In these courtyards are marble fountains with sculptural groups of Faith and Charity from Genoa (c. 1682). Mañara spent the last days of his life here and one can visit rooms near the sacristy in which Mañara lived, having left his family palace. The Brotherhood of Holy Charity (Hermandad de Santa Caridad — see p.143) still exists as a ‘lay association of the faithful’ and operates a residential home for the elderly as well as undertaking other charitable projects. Fifty percent of the €8 entrance price goes towards supporting these projects.

Casa de Pilatos Sevilla’s finest civil palace SANTA CRUZ | Pl. de Pilatos 1 | www.fundacionmedinaceli.org/monumentos/pilatos/ | Daily 0900-1800 | €12 inc. audioguide; €10 ground floor only The palace was begun in 1483 on the initiative of Pedro Enríquez de Quiñones and his wife Catalina de Ribera, who would go on to found the noble house of Alcalá. The building was erected on lots that had been confiscated by the Inquisition. When Pedro died, his wife finished the work, and their son Fadrique Enríquez de Rivera and grandson Per Afán de Ribera y Portocarrero expanded and decorated the palace. Alongside the Palacio de las Dueñas (seat of the Dukes of Alba), it is reckoned to be the finest example of secular (non- royal) architecture of the period, and the prototype for the typical Andalucían palace. The Casa de Pilatos has around 150 different 1530s azulejo (glazed tile)

136 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical and Cult/ural Sites designs made by the brothers Diego and Juan Pulido of Triana: one of the largest azulejo collections in the world. The name of the ‘House of Pilate’ arose after a trip by Fadrique Enríquez de Ribera to Jerusalem in 1519. During his stay he discovered that the distance between the house of Pontius Pilate and Golgotha was the same as that between his palace and the Cruz del Campo (the Cross of the Field — a pilgrimage site then outside Sevilla, which later would give its name to Cruzcampo beer). On his return, a Via Crucis was drawn with 12 stations between the palace and the temple. The grandson of Pedro Enríquez de Quiñones, Per Afán, inherited a great fortune, which invested in his passion: classical sculpture. To him we owe pieces such as the Palas Athena of the main courtyard, the Diana the Huntress and the bust of Marcus Aurelius. It is the largest private palace in the city and is considered the best example of sevilliano architecture of the sixteenth century. The palace has a number of important artworks, such as the frescoes of the apotheosis of Hercules painted by Francisco Pacheco, and a series of bullfighting paintings by Francisco de Goya. Like the Plaza de España, it has also been the scene of a number of films: Lawrence of Arabia (1942), 1492: The Conquest of Paradise (1992), The Kingdom of Heaven (2005) and Knight and Day (2009).

Casa Palacio de Las Dueñas Once home of Spain’s grandest of grande dames FERIA | Calle Dueñas, 5 | www.lasduenas.es | 1000-1800 | €10 (audioguides €2) The Palacio de las Dueñas is the ducal seat House of Alba. It was built in the late 15th century in the Renaissance style with Gothic and Mudéjar influences. It has only recently opened to the public; the previous occupant — the Duchess of Alba — having opposed the idea. Twice widowed and thrice married, Cayetana Fitz-James Stuart (or to give her her full name, María del Rosario Cayetana Paloma Alfonsa Victoria Eugenia Fernanda Teresa Francisca de Paula Lourdes Antonia Josefa Fausta Rita Castor Dorotea Santa Esperanza Fitz-James Stuart, Silva, Falcó y Gurtubay) was styled

137 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical and Cult/ural Sites by her most senior title of ‘Duchess of Alba’, whilst holding over 40 other hereditary titles. According to Guinness World Records, she was the most titled aristocrat in the world, and via her descent from James Fitz-James, she was King James II of England's senior illegitimate-line descendant. She was featured in ¡Hola! Magazine more often than any other person. The decision to open the palace for public visits (as of 2016) is the idea of the current Duke of Alba, Don Carlos Fitz-James Stuart y Martínez de Irujo. Today, it is one of the most visited monuments in Sevilla. Like the Casa de Pilatos The palace was constructed in the late 15th century by Pedro Pineda, Mayor of the city council, and his wife, Doña Maria de Monsalve. But later, they sold it to Doña Catalina de Ribera, widow of Governor Don Pedro Enriquez, to raise the money to ransom Don Juan de Pineda, who had been taken prisoner by the Moors. Thereafter, a series of expansions occurred, forming a Renaissance palace under the auspices of Fernando Enrique de Ribera y Quinones and especially his widow Doña Inés Portocarrero y Cardenas. The building became the property of the House of Alba after the marriage of the 5th Marchioness of Villanueva del Río with the 4th Duke of Alba. The palace name derives from the monastery of Santa María de las Dueñas. The monastery was destroyed in 1868. The palace consists of a series of courtyards and buildings. The style ranges from Gothic art-Moorish to the Renaissance, with local influences in the bricks, shingles, tiles, whitewashed walls and pottery. Its mixed style resembles that of Casa de Pilatos and Casa de los Pinelo. The original palace had eleven patios, nine fountains, and over 100 marble columns. Of these, one patio remains, and it is surrounded by a gallery with columns. At the entrance to the palace, in the main archway, there is the shield of the Duchy of Alba in tiles, made in Triana in the 17th or 18th century. The striking bougainvillea-covered facade is an icon of the Palace. Though similar to the Casa de Pilatos, the lines of the Palacio de las Dueñas are softened by abundant greenery, including many citrus trees. One of its main attractions is a large, decorative art collection which contains some 1,425 artefacts. There is a large collection of Spanish paintings from the 19th and 20th centuries and a significant collection of antique furniture, ceramics and other artefacts including Roman sculpture, Flemish tapestries, mosaics, and many other pieces of art.

138 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Streets and Squares

STREETS AND SQUARES Almost every street in the Barrio Santa Cruz has something to interest the visitor, so take your time and remember to look upwards! What seems like ‘just a house’ at street level might be far more interesting in its upper storeys. Simply wandering, somewhat aimlessly, around the streets of the Judería and the Barrio Santa Cruz can be a very enjoyable way to spend a couple of hours (though do consider letting a guide show you the key places — see p.110). The following is not an exhaustive list of streets and squares (calles y plazas) by any means, but simply some that should not be missed: • Calles Sierpes (ALFALFA) — a narrow shopping street with many old fashioned shops • Plaza Nueva (SANTA CRUZ) — not a beautiful square, but there are often craft or book fairs here. • The Plazas of the Judería (SANTA CRUZ — Refinadores, Las Cruces, Santa Cruz, Alfaro, Venerables, Doña Elvira) • Patio de Banderas (SANTA CRUZ) — you will see this square when you visit the Alcázar and the exit emerges here. • Plaza del Cabildo (ARENAL) — An interesting (and hidden!) semi circular plaza, with a section of the Almohad wall in the corner. • Plaza del Salvador (ALFALFA) — a lively square filled with bars and restaurants. • Plaza Alfalfa (ALFALFA) — a small square with ‘local’ (not especially touristy) bars. • Alameda de Hércules (FERIA) — once down-at-heel; now a pleasant square of bars and gardens. See also ‘A Walk Around Sevilla’ on p.112

139 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Museums and galleries

MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES

Museo de Bellas Artes A feast of Zurburán and Murillo MUSEO | Plaza del Museo 9 | Tue-Sat 0900-2100, Sun 0900-1500 | Free for EU nationals | museodebellasartesdesevilla.es Museum of Fine Arts of Sevilla was instituted in September 1835 and officially inaugurated in 1841, and it is one of the most important art galleries in Spain. Located in the Plaza del Museo, which is dominated by a sculpture dedicated to Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, it is famed principally for its collection of baroque sevilliano painting, especially Zurbarán, Murillo and Valdés Leal, as well as 19th century Andalusian painting. The building that houses the museum was once the headquarters of the convent of the Order of La Merced (Mercedarians), an order founded by Pedro Nolasco in 1218 with the mission of redeeming Christians enslaved by Muslims. At first, the friars had a convent close to the river. The current building dates from much later, when Sevilla was a far wealthier city. The convent church was completed in 1612, and the façade from 1729. The Convent of La Merced was ‘disentailed’ in 1835 under the confiscation of Mendizábal, which meant the definitive exclaustration and loss of the convent. The Provincial Museum was created by a Royal Order of September 16, 1835, with the purpose of gathering the works belonging to the suppressed religious orders, which were many. The current structure of the building corresponds to the alterations carried out after 1602 by Juan de Oviedo. The building is structured around three courtyards connected by a grand staircase, and the church, located at one end of the convent. The lobby is decorated with tiles pilfered from various sevilliano convents. The church was built between 1603 and 1612, designed by Juan de Oviedo. The origin of the collection began with works from monasteries and suppressed monasteries, and for this reason the bulk of works are religious painting, mostly baroque sevillano. A notable lacuna, however, is the lack of paintings by Diego Velázquez, who spent most of his career in Madrid, though he spent his youth in Sevilla. The sevilliano painting collection of the 17th

140 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Museums and galleries century stands out, from which you can see works by the most representative Spanish painters such as Murillo, the aforementioned Velázquez, Zurbarán, Juan de Valdés Leal and Lucas Valdés.

Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares Scenes from ordinary sevillano life EL PORVENIR | Plaza América 3 / Parque María Luisa | Tue-Sat 0900-2100, Sun 0900-1500 | Free for EU nationals | www.museosdeandalucia.es So much of what there is to see in Sevilla is either religious or royal (or at least aristocratic). This museum tells the other story — the history of day to day life for ordinary sevillanos. It occupies the Mudéjar Pavilion (Pabellón Mudéjar) in the María Luisa Park, designed by Aníbal González and built in 1914. It served as an art pavilion, the Pabellón de Arte Antiguo, for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, when González had the opportunity to design several additional permanent buildings. The exterior is ceramic over brick, and has three doors with archivolts adorned with glazed tiles (azulejos). It is a modest museum, largely consisting of items donated by the Díaz- Velázquez family (lace, embroidery, and household items). A couple of dozen small exhibits show tools and objects associated with religious devotions, music, wheat cultivation, gold-smithing, office work, ceramics, winemaking, knives, cooker and firearms. It is the sort of museum that fascinates some people, leaving others cold. But it is free, so worth a look if you are in the María Luisa Park. Just opposite this museum is the Archeological Museum, which is also free to visit for EU nationals.

Museo Arqueológico Sevilla’s distance past uncovered EL PORVENIR | Plaza América 3 / Parque María Luisa | Tue-Sat 0900-2100, Sun 0900-1500 | Free for EU nationals | www.museosdeandalucia.es The Archeological Museum of Sevilla (Museo Arqueológico de Sevilla) is housed in the Pabellón del Renacimiento (Pavilion of the Renaissance), one of the pavilions designed by the architect Aníbal González. The museum's basement houses the El Carambolo treasure, discovered in Camas (2½ miles from Sevilla) in 1958. The treasure comprises 2950 grams of 24 carat gold and consists of

141 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Museums and galleries golden bracelets, a golden chain with pendant, buckles, belts, and forehead plates. Some regard the El Carambolo treasure as proof of the Tartessian roots of Sevilla. This is, however, disputed because the haul also includes a small figurine of Astarte, a Phoenician goddess. Other halls of the museum contain findings from the Roman era, many of which are from the nearby Roman city of Itálica. The Itálica exhibits include mosaics, statues (including the famous Venus of Itálica), and busts of the emperors Augustus, Vespasianus, Trajan and Hadrian.

Ceramics Centre Triana TRIANA | Calle Antillano Campos 14 | Tue-Sat 1000-1400; 1700-2000, Sun 1000-1500 | €2.10 Sevilla is famous for its azulejos – ceramic tiles – and has been for many centuries, since as far back as Roman times. This tradition is celebrated in a new museum, which opened in July 2014, in an old tile factory in Triana. Centro Cerámica Triana is located in the old Cerámica Santa Ana factory close to the market and Castillo San Jorge. The museum is divided into three main areas: on the ground floor, you can see various kilns and learn about the raw materials, including mud from the riverbank and water from the river; on the first floor, there are examples of ceramics from Moorish times up to the 1950s; and on the same floor there’s a section on the neighbourhood of Triana itself, famous for its flamenco artists and festivals, as well as tile factories. The museum uses audio-visual presentations, starting the visit off — and setting the museum into context — by showing old black-and-white footage of mud being shovelled and carried by mules; potters making pieces on their wheels; coloured pigment in jars; ceramics being painted by artisans. Some pieces worth looking out for are the earliest ones – Moorish and Mudéjar well-heads and small jars; white tiles with blue stars, dating from Renaissance times; and tiles made using an industrial process of wooden moulds. Also the Pisano works, by the 15th-century Florentine artist who came to live in Sevilla — large-scale pictures painted over panels of tiles — represent an important stage in the development of the tile industry in Sevilla. Triana used to be home to Sevilla's famous tile workshops and potteries — almost any tile you see in Sevilla's churches, hotels, bars and private houses, as well as the magnificent (if slightly OTT) Plaza de España, will have been made

142 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Museums and galleries here in Triana. If these ubiquitous tiles have piqued your interest, then this is an exhibition which might interest you. CHURCHES

Holy Week (Semana Santa) One of the spectacles that Sevilla is known for is Semana Santa — the Holy Week processions that wend their way from various parish churches to the Cathedral for a week before Good Friday. The narrow streets of the city are skilfully negotiated by the hermandades and cofradías that take part in the processions. Both cofradía and hermandad mean ‘brotherhood’ — the former formed more obviously from the Latin (cf. confrere), and the latter from the Spanish word for brother, hermano (which itself comes from another Latin word for brother, germanus). The brotherhoods are examples of what the Catholic Church calls ‘associations of the faithful’ (as distinct from religious orders of priests or nuns). According to the description in the Code of Canon Law, the purpose of such associations is to ‘strive in a common endeavour to foster a more perfect life, to promote public worship or Christian doctrine, or to exercise other works of the apostolate such as initiatives of evangelization, works of piety or charity, and those which animate the temporal order with a Christian spirit.’ Being a member of a brotherhood is a year-round commitment, undertaking works of charity and raising funds for social projects. Much of the restoration work in churches damaged by the Civil War or otherwise fallen into disrepair has been organised and financed by the brotherhoods who have their headquarters in those churches or in nearby chapels. Some brotherhoods have a particular apostolate with children, young people, the sick or elderly, and many are associated (at least historically) with hospitals. It may stroke some as a rather sexist observation, but the Spanish system of hermandades achieves something which the Church in other countries tends to struggle with — giving men a connection to the Church. Perhaps this is a gross observation to make about a church which has an all-male clergy, but I suggest that it is not. Clergy aside, the life of the Church is sustained by women just as much now as in Apostolic times (remember those long lists of women that St Paul greeted in his epistles?). Women clean the church building, arrange

143 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Churches flowers, are parish secretaries and catechists, they run the creche and junior church, they organise the outreach and the fund-raising, they sit on Parish Councils and teach in Catholic schools, they are extraordinary minister of Holy Communion, and they are the majority of the congregation. If any parish priest had to name the ten people most vital to the functioning of his parish, I would bet that at least eight, and more likely all ten would be women. And thank God for that. But men, and especially young men and men of working age, are conspicuously absent. At the risk of sounding like Jordan Peterson and over-egging the pudding with respect to gender roles, certain things appeal to men more than they do to women. The hermandades offer an attractive way to live a Christian life, as a man, which does not involve being a priest or religious. It involves corporal works of mercy (running and organising things), it entails dressing up (men like uniforms), and it involves feats of strength (there is a decidedly ‘macho’ element). It does not involved the long-term emotional stamina and resilience which women manage far better, it is true. But it enables men, once a year, to carry a very heavy burden for a few hours. In short, it gives them something to do, keeps them out of mischief, and out of the way of their sisters, wives and girlfriends who are the ones who are really in charge. The hermandades might be active all year round, but they are most in evidence during the liturgical celebrations of Semana Santa in pretty much every town in Spain. Even a small village will have at least one brotherhood. Semana Santa celebrations can be quite modest in some places, especially in the North, while in others they can tend towards the opulent (Valladolid, Sevilla and Cádiz are among the best known for putting on a show). Sevilla has around 60 brotherhoods, but Málaga is not far behind with over 40. The most ancient, ‘El Silencio’, was founded in 1340. Each brotherhood has its own image, or painted wooden sculpture; usually of Jesus or the Virgin Mary. Some brotherhoods are custodians of an entire tableau of images, for example depicting Jesus before Pilate, or the Last Supper. These imágenes have particular names or dedications, so a statue of Jesus will be ‘Jesus of the Great Power’, ‘Jesus of the Five Words’, ‘Jesus of Silence’, etc. On a particular time on an appointed day, the imágen, placed on a bier (palo) and surrounded by flowers and candles, will leave the church of the brotherhood and make its stately way to the cathedral. The processions begin the Friday before Holy Week (the ‘Friday of Pain’) and continue until Good Friday, night and day.

144 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Churches

The platform supporting the figure of Christ or the Virgin is known as palo (step). Some of these palos or floats are frankly enormous; so enormous that two brotherhoods have to begin their processions from temporary marquees because the doors of their churches are too narrow. The heaviest palos are those carrying imágenes of the Virgin Mary because they are so richly decorated. Most weigh in at between 3 and 4 tonnes. Part of the beauty of Semana Santa is the way in which the palos sway slightly as they move forward, seeming to bring the images of Jesus and Mary to life. The palo is surrounded by a heavy velvet valance called a faldón and beneath this faldón are hidden up to 200 men who bear it aloft on their shoulders.

When one considers the weight of the palos, as well as the distance they have to be carried — often for up to 12 hours — one can appreciate how taking part in a Semana Santa procession is a form of penitential mortification — a way that members of a brotherhood seek to share in the sufferings of Christ himself. The shortest procession is of the image of the Risen Christ on Easter Sunday — less than one and a half miles. The longest, ‘el Sed’ (the Thirst) on Holy Wednesday is almost 5 miles and takes a full fourteen hours. As well as the hidden costaleros

145 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Churches

(those who carry the palo) other members of the brotherhood act as acolytes (carrying candles, incense and the insignia of the hermandad). Most familiar to us from picture postcards are the nazarenos who wear tall, pointed hats called capirotes and cover their faces with a velvet cloth called a capuchón. Foreign observers often find the sight of these penitents somewhat sinister, perhaps because of the visual similarity with the Ku Klux Klan. It might also seem odd that those doing public penance hide their identities, but as brotherhoods proliferated and developed in the 16th century, the nazarenos began to hide their faces. They donned, in fact, the costume of prisoners and criminals. Members of brotherhoods were sinners like everyone else, but they were also committed to performing acts of charity, and Matthew’s Gospel (Chapter 6, verse 1) cautions: ‘Beware of practicing your righteousness before other people in order to be seen by them, for then you will have no reward from your Father who is in heaven.’ SUNDAY MASSES Oratorio de la Escuela de Cruz | Calle Ximénez de Enciso 15 | 1100 | Extraordinary Form Here mass is celebrated on Sundays and Holy Days in the Extraordinary Form. There is usually a choir of students who sing the Gregorian chant parts of the mass. Iglesia del Señor San José | Calle San José, 17 | 1200, 1300, 1930, 2030 This parish is run by the Prefecture of Opus Dei and so reasonably thriving. There is a decent choir at the 12 noon mass. Their used to be a mass in English

146 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Sunday Masses at 1830, but I think this is no longer the case. As this church is just yards from the Hotel Rey Alfonso X it might be worth having a look at the notice board. San Bartolomé | Calle Virgen de la Alegría 2 | 1200, 1300, 1930 Also near the Hotel Rey Alfonso X, the masses here are sung, with the 1300 listed as a ‘family mass’ and the 1930 ‘for young people’. Catedral de Sevilla | Avenida de la Constitución | 1000, 1315 Mass at the high altar is celebrated every day (including Sunday) at 1000 (following Lauds at 0930, sung by the Cathedral Canons). At the 1000 mass is usually sung and the organ is used (though be warned, the ecclesiastical musical tradition in Spain is not flourishing — nothing in Spain approaches the technical accomplishment of Spanish Place, let alone Westminster Cathedral). During this time access is (usually) via the Puerta del Bautismo (the main door onto the Avenida de la Constitución). At other times of day masses are celebrated in different side chapels or in the attached Sagrario church. Consult the list of masses here: www.catedraldesevilla.es/culto/horarios-de-misa/ Divino Salvador | Plaza del Salvador | 1230, 2000 After the Cathedral, the Collegiate Church of El Salvador is probably the best attended city centre church.

147 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Churches in Sevilla

CHURCHES IN SEVILLA There are 115 parish churches in the city of Sevilla, the vast majority in and around Centro. In addition to these are a number of religious houses of sisters, and churches which are now secular galleries and museums. The four that are most important (The Cathedral, El Divino Salvador, La Macarena, and Jesús del Gran Poder) I have listed under ‘attractions’. Of these, the first two demand a charge for entry. The second two are free. All other churches in Sevilla are, as far as I know, free to visit (one or two are former churches now in state hands, and these charge for entry). The list that follows (all marked on the Companion Google Map) is not a list of ‘must see’ suggestions, but rather included for the sake of information. On the other hand, neither is it an exhaustive list, more of a ‘top twenty’. Most churches in the centre are decorated in a similar style so visiting dozens of churches can feel somewhat repetitive. But it is useful to know where they are in case you are passing. Being free to visit means that you can have a brief look inside Most tend to be open in the morning, then close after the lunchtime mass, before opening again in the afternoon (or as British people would call it, the evening). So, as a general rule of thumb, visiting churches is possible between 0900 and 1300, and between 1800 and 2000..

148 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Churches in Sevilla

149 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Churches in Sevilla

San Lorenzo SAN LORENZO | Plaza de San Lorenzo 7 | Mon-Fri 0830-1100, 1900-2100, Sat 1000-1300, 1900-2100, Sun 0830-1400 Located in the barrio of San Lorenzo, this Gothic-Mudéjar church was built in the 13th century. In this church the celebrated writer Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer was baptized. It is next door to the Basilica of Jesús del Gran Poder (p.134).

San Marcos SAN JULIÁN | Plaza San Marcos, 10 | 1930-2030 A 14th century gothic-mudéjar church on the cardo maximus. Despite changes over the centuries, it remains one of the least changed churches in Sevilla.

Santa María la Blanca SANTA CRUZ | Calle Santa María la Blanca 5 | Mon-Sat 1000-1300, 1800- 2030 Once the site of a Visigothic church, this was a synagogue until 1391. It has an impressive plasterwork ceiling and is the home of the Brotherhood of Our Lady of the Snows.

Real Iglesia de Señora Santa Ana TRIANA | Calle Vázquez de Leca 1 | Mon-Fri 1100-1330, 1630-1900 This famous church of Triana claims the title of the oldest in Sevilla. Its construction began in 1276 by order of King Alfonso X. Its walls house the tomb of Íñigo López, and a legend holds that if any woman give him seven kicks, she is assured of a marriage.

San Luis de los Franceses FERIA | Calle San Luis 27 | Tue-Sun 1000-1400, 1600-2000 | €4 This is the church of the old Jesuit novitiate of St Louis of France, and has been the property of the Diputación de Sevilla since it was confiscated in the 19th century. Built between 1699 and 1731, it is reckoned to be the best preserved example of the Baroque style in Sevilla.

150 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Churches in Sevilla

Omnium Sanctorum FERIA | Calle Peris Mencheta 2 | Mon-Sat 1000-1300, 1930-2100; Sun 1000- 1300 One of the oldest of the churches of Sevilla. It was built on an Almohad mosque around 1249. After the earthquake of 1355 it was reformed in the Gothic- Mudéjar style, and in the 20th century, after a fire caused during the 1936 war, when only the walls and pilasters remained standing, it was rebuilt, reopening it on October 12, 1940.

Santa María Magdalena MUSEO | Calle Bailén 5 | 0745-1330, 1830-2100 This was once the church of the largest convent of the Dominicans in Andalucía, with over 200 friars. It still has a Dominican shield on the façade, and a bust of St Thomas Aquinas by Pedro Roldán. It was the Studium Generale of the Order in the 16th century, and in 1552 raised to the rank of a university by Pope Julius III. St Bartolomé de Las Casas — ‘The Apostle of the Indies’ — was appointed Bishop of Chiapas here in 1544. On 1 January 1618, the future painter Bartolomé Esteban Murillo was baptised here, and the entry in the baptismal register is often on display. The convent was confiscated in 1835 and the convent was gradually demolished, with the church and various other buildings being used for secular purposes. It is now a diocesan church.

Santa Cruz SANTA CRUZ | Calle Mateos Gago 32 | Mon-Sat 1900-2100 This the church where Murillo is buried. The old church of Santa Cruz was demolished in 1814 (leaving the Plaza Santa Cruz in its place), but eventually the parish moved to this church, which was once the chapel of the Order of Minor Regular Clergy (expelled in 1835).

Anunciación ENCARNACIÓN | Calle Laraña, 9 | 1030-1330, 1800-2100 Constructed in 1565 under the architect Hernán Ruiz as a church for the Jesuits. After the expulsion of the Society of Jesus in 1767 it became the church

151 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Churches in Sevilla of the University of Sevilla until 1956, when the university moved to the former Royal Tobacco Factory. It has a particularly rich selection of art and sculpture. PARKS AND GARDENS

Jardines de Murillo An oasis in the heart of the city SANTA CRUZ | Avenida Menéndez Pelayo | 24 hours The main gardens in the Barrio Santa Cruz are those of the Alcázar, and can only be visited as part of a visit to that monument. The Murillo Gardens are a public park which runs along the south western edge of the city wall. At the beginning of the 20th century, King Alfonso XIII ceded the land where the gardens of Murillo are currently located to the Ayuntamiento. The name ‘Murillo’ was proposed by the editor of the newspaper El Liberal, José Laguillo y Bonilla, in honour of the painter of the same name. From the Santa Cruz neighbourhood you can access the gardens through the Plaza de Alfaro (near Plaza Santa Cruz) and through the Plaza de los Refinadores, which has a statue of Don Juan Tenorio.

Parque María Luisa The legacy of an exhibition ARENAL/EL PORVENIR | 0800-2200 This park is Sevilla's principal green area, but thanks to the Expo of 1929, it is full of buildings! A map from the hotel or Tourist Information is helpful when visiting this park. Most of the grounds that were used for the park were formerly the gardens of the Palace of San Telmo. They were donated to the city of Sevilla in 1893 by the Infanta Luisa Fernanda, Duchess of Montpensier, for use as a public park. Starting in 1911, Jean-Claude Nicolas Forestier rearranged the gardens into more or less their present order. In 1914 the architect Aníbal Gonzalez began construction for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, which was held partly

152 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Parks and gardens within the park. The new buildings of the Plaza de España (see p.130) were part of this development. In preparation for the exhibition, the entire southern end of the city was redeveloped into an expanse of gardens and grand boulevards. The centre of it is Parque de María Luisa in a 'Moorish paradisical style' with a half mile of tiled fountains, pavilions, walls, ponds, benches, and exhedras. There are lush plantings of palms, orange trees, Mediterranean pines, and stylized flower beds with bowers hidden by vines. The park serves as a botanical garden. Many plant species, native or exotic, are represented, along with educational panels to inform the visitors to the park. Many species of bird make their home in the park, and locals are fond of the large population of doves and part of the Plaza de América is called the ‘Parque de las Palomas’ (this is noteworthy because Spaniards in general are unsentimental about gassing feral pigeons!). There are also parakeets living in the centre of the park, and ducks and swans in the fountains and lakes. The monument to the poet Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer is located in the north of the park, along the Avenida de Gustavo Adolfo Becquer. It was constructed in 1911 by Lorenzo Coullaut-Valera, in collaboration with the architect Juan Talavera Heredia and Catalan sculptor Federico Bechini. In a scene is inspired by Becquer's poetry collection Rimas, on the right of the bust of the poet is Cupid as a child throwing arrows at three young women. To the left of the bust is Cupid as an adult, stabbed and dying. The two angels are in bronze, the rest of the work is in marble white. The Fountain of the Lions (Fuente de los Leones), based on an idea of the park designer Jean Claude Nicolas Forestier, was sculpted by Manuel Delgado Brackenbury in 1913. It consists of four stone lions, each carrying a shield, placed on four of the eight sides of the octagonal fountain into which they spew water. The fountain is decorated with tiles from the workshop of Ramos Rejano. The lions were installed in 1928. Badly damaged by vandals they were replaced in 1957 by copies made by the sevilliano sculptor Juan Abascal Fuentes. The fountain was restored in 1992. The Queen's sewing box (Costurero de la Reina) was built in 1893 in the gardens of the Palace of San Telmo, as a retreat. It is a unique building that takes the form of a small hexagonal castle with turrets at the corners. It is the oldest building in Sevilla in the Neo-Mudéjar style. Numerous other buildings

153 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Parks and gardens were constructed in and around the park for the exhibition in a mix of 1920s Art Deco and mock Mudéjar. Some of them were extravagant in their décor and the Guatemala Pavilion, off the Paseo de la Palmera, is an example of this elaborate style. Some of the original buildings have been replaced by more modern structures. For example, the Public Library was inaugurated in 1999 by the Infanta Elena, Duchess of Lugo. It was nominated for the Mies van der Rohe Award for European Architecture in 2001. Just to the north is the Teatro Lope de Vega, a small baroque-style theatre that was also built for the exhibition and which is the model for the portada of this year’s Feria de Abril (p.122) Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer Most bars and restaurants in Centro are of decent quality. Some are better than others, but there are very few duds. In fact there are very few poor eateries in Sevilla, or even in Spain, as a whole. Spaniards take their food and drink far too seriously to put up with sub-par establishments. The exception to this happy rule are some ‘tourist-only’ places — in the main that means ‘Irish Pubs’ and restaurants/take-ways selling kebabs, pizza, burgers and very bad paella (tip: pretty much all paella is bad outside Valencia). But in the centre, poor quality establishments cannot survive long simply by serving chicken nuggets to unsuspecting foreigners, due to high rents. Part of the pleasure of travel is finding places to enjoy food and drink, and not just working one’s way through the TripAdvisor top ten. The following suggestions are precisely that — suggestions — rather than recommendations. One of my favourite places to eat in all of Spain is a rather scruffy bar in Madrid that has no chairs but serves very good grilled sardines; but that is no good to someone who does not like sardines, or who wants to sit down to eat. These suggestions are included because they have been found to be reliable, or because they are the sort of place that one is unlikely to discover ‘by accident’. Nothing should be read into the order in which they are listed. If you would like to have a look at some recent reviews, then have a look on TripAdvisor but, for any establishment, on this list or not, make your own judgement. Look at the menu. Take a look inside — how is the ambiente? Study the other customers. Then you can decide whether it is for you. And remember, a bar floor strewn with litter is a good sign. If you want to eat tapas then look to see what others

154 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer are eating. Locals know what is good. If 90% of the customers are tucking in to the prawns and ignoring everything else, then go for the prawns. The tragedy of Sevilla — or almost any large-ish town in Spain — is that there simply isn’t time to visit all the good places to eat and drink. MARKETS Before supermarkets, each barrio of Sevilla had its own mercado or covered market. These are tourist attractions in their own right, with impressive displays of fish, meat, charcuterie, vegetables and fruit. Spanish mercados have always had their own bars and cafes, but in recent years, these outlets have been increased in an attempt to create ‘mercados gastronómicos’.

Mercado Lonja del Barranco Eating and drinking with Eiffel ARENAL/MUSEO | Calle Arjona | Sun-Thu 1000-0000; Fri-Sat 1000-0200 | www.mercadolonjadelbarranco.com This is Sevilla’s newest and shiniest ‘gastronomic experience’ occupying the beautiful wrought-iron former fish market (designed by Gustave Eiffel in 1883). There is a terrace bar looking out onto the river next to the Puente de Triana. Twenty separate stall serve alcohol, coffee, cocktails, steak, croquetas, empanadas, seafood, octopus, wine, cheese, paella, tacos, sushi and more.

Mercado de Triana Oysters with the Inquisition TRIANA | Plaza del Altozano | Mon-Sat 1000-0000; Sun 1200-1700 | www.mercadodetrianasevilla.com Opposite the Lonja del Barranco on the Triana side of the river, this was the first mercado in Sevilla to get the ‘gastronomic’ makeover. In the lower part of the market are the remains of the Castle of San Jorge. This castle was the seat of the Inquisition since 1481, although its earliest parts date back to 1171. A number of bars. As well as traditional fresh produce, it has many bars, cafes, wine bars as well as an excellent, and reasonably priced, oyster bar.

155 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: Markets

Mercado de la Encarnación The latest incarnation of Encarnación ENCARNACIÓN | Plaza de la Encarnación | Mon-Sat 0800-1500 | mercadodelaencarnacion.es/ A newly constructed market under Las Setas which replaced a far older market on this site. This is mainly a market selling fresh groceries, rather than a place to eat and drink.

Mercado de la Feria A feria of the freshest fish FERIA | Plaza Calderón de la Barca | 0800-2000, closes later on Fri & Sat | mercadodelaferia.es The Feria Market – the oldest in Sevilla – comprises two buildings, separated by a small alleyway, next door to the 13th century Omnium Sanctorum Church on Feria Street. There are the usual displays of fresh fish, meat and produce, as well as a well-stocked florist and some small shops that run along the outside of the market. But the biggest attraction is the fabulous market bar that serves up super-fresh fish and seafood tapas. La Cantina is found right next to the church; in fact its terrace incorporates a length of the old church wall. The service is fast and friendly and it’s a great place to stop off for a quick bite. Open during market hours, 7am – 4.30 pm, Monday to Saturday.

Gourmet Experience Duque Top tier food hall ENCARNACIÓN | Planta 5 (5th Floor) El Corte Inglés, Plaza del Duque de la Victoria 8 | Mon-Thu 1000-0000; Fri-Sat 1000-0200; Sun 1200-2000 | https://www.elcorteingles.es/aptc/gourmet-experience/duque/ The high-quality supermarket of Spain answer to Selfridges — El Corte Inglés — is in the basement of the Encarnación branch, but the top floor (formerly the roof) is a luxury food court; one of 9 throughout Spain (four are in Madrid). There is a shop selling the finest Spanish food and drink, chocolates and gifts. The rest of the level is composed of food stalls and a large terrace. There is an ice-cream bar (Amorino), a cocktail bar (Puerto de Cuba) and three permanent bars serving food. ‘Hamburguesanostra’ makes more than 30 different kinds of

156 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: Markets gourmet burger, ‘Barajas 20’ specialises in modern andaluz dishes, and ‘Gastrobar Experience’ goes in for slow and sous-vide cookery. Buy your food and drink then take outside to the terrace to enjoy. RESTAURANTS The following are proper sit-down restaurants as opposed to bars that serve food. As I explain above, the distinction between bars and restaurants in Spain is somewhat fluid. But these are the sort of places that have wine lists and (in some cases) table-cloths. There are not too many suggestions, because you are in Sevilla for four days, not 4 weeks! And too long a list is probably less help than no list at all. Where possible I indicate the median cost of a main course for each. Starters often seem expensive in comparison to the UK — this is because people rarely order one each, but rather order to share.

Taberna del Alabardero Far from student grub ARENAL | Calle Zaragoza 20 | 1300-1600, 1900-2300 | Lunch Menú €14.50 (Mon-Fri), €19.50 (Sat-Sun) | Mains €25 | Online Booking | www.tabernadelalabardero.es The Taberna del Alabardero is a hotel, restaurant and bistro operated by a company set up by the Escuela de Hostelería de Sevilla — Sevilla’s main school of hospitality. The standards, however, are extremely high and pretty close to genuinely fine dining. The building (a 19th century palacio) makes an attractive, rather opulent setting. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner (both à la carte) and is not cheap. Excellent value, though, is the lunchtime set menú which, unusually, is also available at weekends. Booking advised.

Vineria San Telmo Fine wines and inventive tapas on the terraza SANTA CRUZ | Paseo de Catalina de Ribera 4 | 1300-0000 | Mains €18 | www.vineriasantelmo.com This is included partly because it is very close (100m) to the Hotel Rey Alfonso X. It is technically a ‘wine bar’, but people go there to eat rather than simply drink (and Spaniards never ‘simply drink’). Most of the dishes on the extensive

157 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: RESTAURANTS menu are available as tapas, medía raciones, and raciones (tapas, small plates, big plates). A tapa is under €5, a small plate under €15 and a big plate hovers around the €20 mark. This means that you can share lots of dishes, mix and match, and eat as much or as little as you with. Pop in during the day to book for the evening, and if it’s warm enough request a table on the terraza.

Entre Dos Hermandades Traditional Spanish cuisine SANTA CATALINA | Calle Recaredo 13 | 1330-1600, 2000-2330 | Lunch Menú €10 | Mains €14 | Online Booking | entre-dos-hermandades.eltenedor.rest The restaurant Entre dos Hermandades adapts the flavour of traditional Spanish cuisine into something rather more contemporary, resulting in well- prepared tapas, a place where you can feel at home, and enjoy lovely dishes both in the bar and in its spacious dining room. The tenderloin sausage, ham croquettes and huevos rotos (broken eggs) with ham deserve special mention. Its daily menu, which includes starter, main course, dessert and drink (€10) is great value.

Meson Don Raimundo Guardians of andaluz culinary tradition SANTA CRUZ | Calle Argote de Molina, 26 | 1200–1600; 1930-0000 | Menú €17.50 | Mains €17 | Online booking | mesondonraimundo.com Situated in a surprisingly large building full of history, this traditional restaurant reflects that history and tradition in its cuisine. The lunch menú includes first, second, drink and dessert, from €17.50

Tradevo Centro Exquisite, modern tapas ALFALFA | Cuesta del Rosario,15 | 1330-1630; 2045-2330 | Mains €14 | Booking online | www.tradevo.es/tradevo-centro This place always seems full, so booking is advised. The concept appears to be a contemporary tavern with restaurant quality tapas. The delicate sardines marinated with roasted peppers, and lemon anchovies are its two great

158 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: RESTAURANTS specialties. There is also impeccable roe of grilled hake, tasty grilled French mussels with curry sauce and plenty of good bread to mop it up. They have two other establishments in Sevilla, located somewhat away from the centre (San Bernardo and Nervión).

La Azotea Exciting cooking in a modern take on the tavern FERIA/SAN VICENTE| Calle Conde de Barajas 13 | 1300-1630; 2000-0000 | https://laazoteasevilla.com SANTA CRUZ | Calle Mateos Gago 8 | 1300-1630; 2000-0000 | https://laazoteasevilla.com ARENAL | Calle Zaragoza 5 | 1300-1630; 2000-0000 | https://laazoteasevilla.com Actually it is ‘Las Azoteas’ because there are four branches of this bar- restaurant, but this says something about its success, rather than ringing the usual warning bells about chain restaurants. All dishes are available as tapas, medía raciones, and raciones, so you can mix and match if you wish. The dishes are based on Spanish classics, but with delicate modern twists. Check the menus online (english version available).

La Malvaloca A place to eat mushrooms, beneath the mushrooms ENCARNACIÓN/ALFALFA | Plaza de la Encarnación 20 | 0815-2345 A bright, modern and recently opened bar-restaurant which has become extremely popular thanks to its friendly staff, relaxed ambiente and excellent cooking. Once again, all dishes are available as tapas, medía raciones, and raciones.

Bar Kiko Home-style stews and pig’s cheeks ALFALFA | Calle Herbolarios 17 | Mon-Fri 1230-1600, 2000-2330; Sat 1200- 1700; Sun closed | Menú €7.50

159 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: RESTAURANTS

Bar Kiko is a family business or as they like to call it, ‘a matriarchy’. All the food is homemade, cooked by the matriarch herself — Chari — who lovingly prepares very traditional andaluz fayre: stewed chickpeas, spinach with chickpeas, homemade pisto (ratatouille), meatballs with potatoes, and her famous ‘pheasant tears’. They also offer a menú del día, with regularly changing dishes. The Iberian carrillá (pork cheek) in a rich sauce is already the regular Saturday offering. The menú (Monday to Friday) consists of two courses and a drink for an amazing € 7.50.

Las Columnas Traditional food between Hercules and Caesar FERIA | Alameda de Hércules 19 | 0700-0000 | Menú €9 ‘The Columns’, located in the Alameda de Hércules, with a large terrace in the sun, is a lively and traditional bar which provides a counterbalance to the chic hipster joints that have sprung up around it. Its most requested dishes — sirloin roquefort, grouper and serranito (a delicious warm sandwich), are all real delight. The daily menu, from Monday to Friday, with first, second, bread, dessert and a drink, costs €9.

Espacio Eslava Alta Cocina and prize-winning tapas SAN LORENZO | Calle Eslava 3 | Restaurant Tue-Sat 1330-1600, 2030-0000; Sun 1330-1600 | Tapas Bar Tues-Sat 1230-0000 | www.espacioeslava.com I have possibly left the best till last here. The cooking here is modern and perfectly executed. Given the quality, the prices are reasonable (all main courses except leg of baby lamb and fillet of beef are less that €20). The tasting menu of eight rather substantial tapas is good value at €45. These are tapas unlike those served up in most bars — the ‘Slow-cooked egg served on boletus cake with caramelized wine reduction’ won first prize in the ‘Sevilla en Boca de Todos’ competition, as did the ‘Mixed cheese emulsion, tomato bread, anchovies and green olives from Aljarafe’. It’s a crowded field, but this is certainly one of the best restaurants in Sevilla at the moment (and if you are not in the mood for a restaurant meal, they also have a tapas bar).

160 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: Bars

BARS If 115 churches is not mind-boggling enough, the thought that Sevilla has 3000 bars. That means one bar for every 230 people (by contrast, London has one pub for every 2,450 inhabitants). Here are just a handful of my favourites. In a city with as rich a bar culture as Sevilla, it goes without saying that you could completely disregard these suggestions and still find some real gems. With so many good bars on every street, there is no need to walk for ages just to reach a bar that has been recommended to you. If you are thirsty, or peckish, just duck into the first decent looking establishment you pass (and remember that bars are where most people go for coffee). All of the following are decent options for tapas and raciones too.

Bar Europa Azulejo-tiled bar in a hidden square ALFALFA | Calle Siete Revueltas, 35 | 0830-0000 A beautifully decorated bar tucked into one corner of the Plaza Jesús de la Pasión (there is a small outside terrace). There is a small selection of delicious tapas including a garlicky ajoblanco (chilled almond soup).

El Rinconcillo Quenching thirst since 1670 SANTA CATALINA/ENCARNACIÓN | Calle Gerona 40 | 1330-0130 Founded in 1670 this is oldest tapas bar in Sevilla. Fittingly for a place which opened when Charles II was on the British throne, it is a place filled with old- world ambiente, and supposedly where the custom of tapas began. It still attracts a loyal local crowd and the odd tourist. Many go to enjoy the delicious espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas) or the pavia de bacalao (cod fritters). Your tab will be chalked onto an ancient wooden counter. Old sherry casks stand in for tables.

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Restaurante Taberna Miami Friendly and frenetic TRIANA | Calle San Jacinto 21 | 1130-0000 This is a good option on the Triana side of the river. Run by three brothers (or possibly cousins) whose way of managing service is a floor-show in itself. The speciality of the house is a chunky tomato salad, and the mixed grill is amazing value.

Bar Estrella Tapas A starring rôle for anchovies SANTA CRUZ | Calle Estrella 3 | 1200-0000 | www.barestrellasevilla.com Some unusual tapas, and not so frequented by the tourist trade as the Bar Giralda nearby. It specializes in seafood tapas, such as boquerones fritos, small fried anchovies.

Bodeguita Casablanca By Royal Appointment SANTA CRUZ | Calle Adolfo Rodriguez Jurado 12 | 0700-1700, 2000-0000 | Closed Sunday Just across the road from the Archivo de Indias. It is run by the youngest son of the family who ran the much-praised bar-restaurant Casablanca on the Calle Zaragoza, now closed. This is the spin off tapas bar, continuing in the same vein. I once saw King Juan Carlos here, sipping chilled Manzanilla and sucking the heads of some prawns.

Placentines A more reasonably priced version of Casa Robles SANTA CRUZ | Calle de Placentines 2 | 1200-0100 | www.casa-robles.com Family owned and popular with locals, it offers extraordinary fish and has a good value menú del día in the upstairs restaurant. There is a tapas bar downstairs decorated with sherry barrels and hams hanging from the ceiling. Pretty much an institution. It has the same owners as the Casa Robles at Alvarez Quintero 58 but slightly more keenly priced.

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Bodeguita Antonio Romero Gamazo ARENAL Calle Gamazo 16 |1200-000 | bodeguitasantonioromero.com Bodeguita Romero ARENAL | Calle Harinas 10 | 1200-1700, 2000-0000 |bodeguitaromero.es Sister bars run by the same family, both near the bullring in the El Arenal district. The vibe is classy with an elegant tapas bar that attracts a well-heeled, loyal local crowd, particularly after the bullfights at the Real Maestranza. Sample the tapas at the bar.

Bodegas Díaz Salazar ¡Tortillitas de Camarones! ARENAL | Calle Garcia de Vinuesa 20 | 1130-1600, 2000-0000 | Closed Sunday evening Almost the epitome of an ‘old school’ bar. At the back of the bar are several of the enormous jars that were once used to store wine. A small but delicious menu of freshly prepared tapas includes (in season) tortillitas de camarones (baby shrimp fritters — at other times of year they serve cod fritters instead), and pechuga con tartara, a strip of chicken breast and tatare sauce in a crispy coating. Another favourite is datiles con bacón — hot, sweet dates in salty bacon.

Casa Morales Empanada Emporium ARENAL | Calle Garcia de Vinuesa 11 | 1200-1600, 2000-0000 | Closed Sunday evening This almost mythical winery preserves the decoration of yesteryear, and still serves the same tapas as decades ago. Pig’s cheeks and bull’s tail stew are close to perfection, but Morales’ reputation really rests on its empanada — a tuna (usually) and vegetable pie, served in generous squares.

Los Coloniales A Sevilla institution ALFALFA | Plaza Cristo de Burgos 19 | 1230-0015 | tabernacoloniales.es

163 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: Bars

They never fail. It may not be the best place to eat in Sevilla, but it is a safe bet for several reasons: they serve you at the speed of light, they are in the centre, it’s cheap, and the food is really good. The only downside is that there are almost always people waiting. The queue moves quickly though. I often wonder if this is the only bar in the world which people visit simply to enjoy their homemade blancmange?

Patio San Eloy The original and still the best ALFALFA | Calle San Eloy 9 | 1200-1630, 1900-1130 | www.patiosaneloy.com Everyone who discovers this bar seems to be delighted with it, and yet it is a very ordinary place. But they are clearly doing something right, because they have opened more branches all over the city in recent years. The price is acceptable, the waiters are fast and the little sandwiches they prepare are finger-lickingly good. If you want to try something native, ask for the montadito de pringá they serve here (pringá is made with the leftovers from puchero — a popular kind of stew in Sevilla — and may contain pork, chicken, blood sausage, chorizo, and lard; all cooked long and slow until it shreds and is beautifully soft and rich).

Bar Alfalfa One of the most typical of the typical ALFALFA | Calle Candilejo 1 | 0900-0000 It is the typical bar, typically decorated (hams hanging from the ceiling), serving typical tapas (like salmorejo), and typical drinks (including vermú). With a couple of tapas you can eat quite well, since they are not small.

Bar Pelayo A bar watched over by bulls SANTA CRUZ | Calle Placentines 25 | 1200-0000 | www.pelayobar.com It is one of the best tapas places if you are in the Cathedral area. The decoration is taurine, although not as ornate as other bars. The portions and tapas are a good size and well presented. It is another good place for tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters).

164 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: Bars

Bar El Baratillo Tentacles and tails ARENAL | Calle Adriano 20 | 1200-0000 | www.barelbaratillo.com This is a modern bar with traditional furnishings (like bulls heads on the wall). The tapas are traditional and hearty too, and extremely good value. The pig’s cheek, the bull’s tail and the octopus are all outstanding. The staff are super- efficient and friendly ROOFTOP BARS If you want to enjoy a drink with a view, Sevilla has a number of options. Everyone knows about the EME roof terrace (Alemanes 27) because it is just yards from the cathedral and is the best place to watch the birds (common kestrels) flitting in and out of the Giralda. But it tends to be full most of the time, and charges high prices. The ‘Gourmet Experience’ roof terrace of the El Corte Inglés department store (p.156) has excellent views, is more reasonably priced and not many tourists know about it. Other possibilities include (all marked on the map): • Hotel Doña Maria (Calle Don Remondo 19) — a close neighbour of EME • Hotel Fernando III (Calle San Jose 21) — another competitor for EME • Hotel Inglaterra (Plaza Nueva 7) — the best all-round view, but premium (i.e. London!) prices • Pura Vida, Hotel los Seises (Calle Segovias 6) — perhaps the best cathedral view • Hotel Amadeus (Calle Farnesio 6) — little known and part of an elegant but quirky hotel, but with top-quality (and large) drinks with a stunning view, especially at sunset. CAFÉS In Spain, a cafetería is a place that serves food (and it is where the English word comes from), and 99% of bars serve coffee. But there also a few establishments that specialise in coffee and cakes, as well as savoury snacks. Four of the best are:

165 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: Cafés

Pastelería y Confitería La Campana A sweet institution on ‘Serpent Street’ ALFALFA | Calle Sierpes 1 | 0800-2200 | confiterialacampana.com/ Catering for the sevilliano sweet-tooth since 1885, this is the place to discover the most traditional kinds of Spanish pastries, such a piononos (in Sevilla, at least, custard filled sponge rolls) or milhojas de turrón (mille-feuille filled with nougat cream).

La Crème de La Crème pastelería New wave patisserie in the shadow of Las Setas ENCARNACIÓN | Calle Regina 1 | 0830-2100 | www.lacremedelacreme.es/ A more modern coffee shop than La Campana, but still authentically Spanish rather than an American import.

Mamá Inés A cosy, local favourite in Encarnación ENCARNACIÓN | Plaza de Zurbarán 4 | 0830-1500 | Closed Sunday Another cafe with home-made delicious cakes (and savouries) near to Las Setas.

Dulcería Manu Jara A French Masterchef in Triana TRIANA | Calle Pureza 5 | 1000-1430, 1700-2100, Fri-Sun 1000-2100 | www.manujara.com Probably the best patisserie in Sevilla. The owner, Manuel Jara, was head pastry chef and the 3 Michelin star Madrid restaurant Zalacaín before coming to Sevilla in 2000 to teach pastry at the Taberna del Alabardero hospitality school (p.157). SUPERMARKETS For basics and/or emergencies, there are plenty of small corner shops (mostly run by Chinese immigrants) in the centre. Like corner shops in the UK, they

166 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: Supermarkets sell snack foods, milk, soft drinks, alcohol etc., and like UK corner shops, you pay slightly over the odds for convenience. Most are open from mid-morning until late (usually midnight).For other food and drink, as well as toiletries, etc., then you would do well to visit a larger supermarket. The nearest (200m) supermarket to the Hotel Rey Alfonso X is a branch of ‘Mas’ on Avenida de Menéndez Pelayo 50 (marked on the map). For a quality supermarket selling everything you could need, then your best bet is the basement supermarket of El Corte Inglés in the Plaza del Duque (see p.156 and the map). Para comprar — Shopping STREET MARKETS

Art Market MUSEO | Plaza del Museo | Sunday An Art Market, where many professional and amateur painters and fans exhibit and sell their works.

Philately and Numismatics ARENAL | Plaza del Cabildo | Sunday This takes place in the tiny, semicircular plaza which can be accessed through the Avenida de la Constitución (if you know where), or Calle Almirantazgo.

Paseo del Arte TRIANA | Paseo !!br0ken!! Sra. de la O | Sunday 0900-1400 An open air Art and Craft exhibition/sale in Triana, on the Paseo de Nuestra Señora De la ‘O’, next to the Triana Bridge. It is held on Saturdays and Sundays between 0900 and 1400, in a beautiful setting next to the Guadalquivir. At the end of the short Paseo (on Calle Castilla) is the Church of Our Lady of the ‘O’, and it is open between 1000 and 1330, so you could take a late morning stroll and visit both before finding lunch. (The mysterious ‘O’ in the title of this

167 Para comprar — Shopping: Street Markets image of the Virgin, by the way, refers to the ‘O’ of the Great O Antiphons sung as vespers in the days before Christmas.)

Organic Market and ‘Souk of Books’ FERIA | Alameda de Hércules | Saturday 1100-1900 A market of organic produce organised by COAG (the Union of Farmers and Ranchers of Andalusia) and a book fair held at the same time.

El Gran Soho FERIA | Alameda de Hércules | Sunday 1100-1900 ‘The Great Soho’ of the Alameda is a large market with crafts, fashion, accessories, sweets etc. LOCAL SPECIALITIES Unless you are in the market for a flamenco dress or a wide-brimmed cordobés hat, then one of the most enjoyable purchases one can make is convent-made confectionary (biscuits, sweets and jam). You ring the bell and wait for the voice behind the wooden torno (a kind of enclosed lazy susan) to say, ‘Ave María purísima!’ (‘Hail Mary most pure’) to which you respond, ‘Sin pecado concebida!’ (‘Conceived without sin’) and give your order. Saying ‘hello’ in English will still make sure you are served, though! Biscuits and sweets make better and more unusual souvenirs and gifts than plastic flamenco dolls or fridge magnets, but if you want to buy some to take home, I would advise waiting until you are in Granada to keep your luggage light, where there are a few monasteries selling ‘dulces’ (sweets) as these products are collectively known. However, if you will be travelling home with checked-in luggage then I recommend the jams and marmalades made by the nuns at the Santa Paula convent. Confusingly, the Spanish word for ‘jam’ is ‘mermelada’ — the source of our English word because ‘jam’ made with the local bitter oranges would naturally be called ‘mermelada’. Buying a jar or two of jam at Santa Paula is pretty painless as you are not required to shout through a grille but rather will be invited into a small showroom/shop by the extern sister.

168 Para comprar — Shopping: Local specialities

Convento de Santa Paula Convent confiture SANTA CATALINA | Calle Santa Paula 11 | Shop: Tue-Sun 1000-1330, 1630-1900 | Museum Tue-Sun 1000-1300 €3 | www.santapaula.es Before 1pm the sisters’ small museum can be visited — the only enclosed religious house in Sevilla that can be visited, in fact. The shop has an enormous range of jams and marmalades, including many made from unusual fruits such as fig, peach, pumpkin, lemon, melon and kiwi. The nuns also make sweet and savoury jellies, and of course the orange marmalade for which Sevilla is so well known.

169 Córdoba: Córdoba Córdoba First a Carthaginian township, Córdoba was captured by the Romans in 206 BC,

soon becoming the capital of Hispania Ulterior with fine buildings and imposing fortifications. In the 6th century, with the crumbling of the Roman Empire, the city fell to the Visigoths until the beginning of the 8th century when it was

170 Córdoba: Córdoba conquered by the Moors. In 716, Córdoba became a provincial capital and, in 766, capital of the Muslim emirate of Al-Andalus which at its height (c.1000) controlled two thirds of the Iberian Peninsula. The decline set in after the fall of the Umayyads, and was consolidated by the capture of the town by Fernando III (‘El Santo’ — who was king of Castilla: the Fernando II who was husband of Isabel was more than two centuries later and was king of Aragón) in 1236. For much of its subsequent history travellers have tended to describe Cordoba as a sad, bleak and empty town, living off memories of its past. However, since the Civil War of 1936-9, ‘the distant and lonely’ town evoked by Garcia Lorca has developed into a thriving commercial town and one of the major tourist centres of Spain (though in this respect, still living off memories of its past). Córdoba is popular with tourists, who mostly come for the day (or just an hour or two) to visit the mezquita (the Cathedral, formerly a mosque). Many tourists stay in Antequera (an hour north of Málaga), where accommodation is relatively cheap, because although not terribly interesting in itself, Antequera is perfectly positioned within easy reach of Málaga, Sevilla, Granada, Ronda and Córdoba. Therefore, if you are heading for Córdoba, I would advise you to travel as early as you can countenance and then head straight for the mezquita (which opens at 10) in order to beat the coach parties. By midday the Cathedral can be really very busy, which is fine for getting a taste of what it must have been like in the Middle Ages, but less agreeable for appreciating the perfection of its architecture. The wonder of the building (and it is a UNESCO world heritage site; actually the historic city centre is) is less about the statues, art and decoration, and more about the simplicity of the geometric forms of the Islamic architecture. On a visit, one has to ‘zoom out’ rather than ‘zoom in’ to appreciate it best. It is undeniable that the greatest architectural monument to Moorish rule — the mezquita — is stunning — one of the oldest mosques in the world and when it was built, the second largest in the world. It was built on top of a Visigothic church (dedicated to St Vincent, protomartyr of Spain), which was, in all

171 Córdoba: Córdoba likelihood, constructed on top of a Roman temple. Other Visigothic churches were plundered for stone. It was converted into a church in 1236. It was pretty much used as it was, until a renaissance chapel was constructed in the early 16th c. It looks out of place, frankly. The Córdoba ‘mosque’ has become totemic for Muslims, and demonstrations of Islamic piety (such as the ‘spontaneous’ offering of prayers) are frequent. There was a mosque on this site for almost 450 years, but it has now been a Christian church for almost twice as long. If one adds in the life span of the church that was destroyed to build the mosque (St Vincent), then this has been a place of Christian worship for well over a thousand years in total. It has become fashionable, as people criticise not only the Church, but Christendom, to attempt to rehabilitate the Islamic heritage of Andalucía. The irony of secular liberals praising medieval Islam is apparently lost upon many people. Even supposedly scholarly books try to present the history of Spain under Islamic rule as one of convivencia — where Muslims, Christians and Jews lived together in a kind of tolerant paradise. The truth, as we have seen, was somewhat different. Naturally enough, it is in the interests of the city of Córdoba to reimagine its own past as a lost paradise of peaceful tolerance and high culture, but this is only possible if some unpalatable historical facts are airbrushed from the picture. A visitor to Córdoba is likely to form the impression that the real villains of Iberian history were the Catholic monarchs Fernando and Isabel and, through them, the Inquisition. Their injustices are rightly laid bare (not least within Córdoba’s macabre and hyperbolic Museum of The Inquisition, previously the ‘Gallery of Torture’) and the expulsion of Spain’s Jews in 1492 is a stain on her history. Yet no mention is made of the massacre of Jews in Córdoba in 1013, when the city was at its most ‘sophisticated’; nor of the Granada massacre of 1066 in which the King’s Jewish vizier was crucified and 4,000 Jews were killed in one day. Yet for all the positive revisionism of today, it is still difficult to get a sense now of the importance and magnificence of medieval Córdoba, at least within the Moorish kingdoms of Andalucía. To what extent Córdoba was outward looking is subject to some debate. Its rulers were engaged in failed land-grabs and then endless wars with the rulers of Christian Spain to the north, so the existence of cultural and trading links seems unlikely. Isolated of not, there is little doubt

172 Córdoba: Córdoba that early medieval Córdoba was a huge city. Estimates of its population vary between 250,000 and 1,000,000 people (most authorities suggest 450,000- 500,000), but few historians doubt that in the year 1000, Córdoba was the largest city in Europe and, very probably, in the world.

Shopping in Córdoba The old medina (also known as the Judería) is packed with touristy shops selling a mixture of genuine local crafts and cheap tat shipped in from China (polyester fans, cuddly toy bulls, etc.). Córdoba has been famous for leather for millennia (though the centre of modern Spanish leather is Mallorca) so this is likely to be good quality so long as you can find a decent shop. The following are worth a look: Zoco Municipal de la Artesanía (Calle Judíos / Plaza Maimónides — see p.183) Meryan (Cueros de Córdoba) (Calleja de la Flores, 2 — see p.185) Piel Española (also Calleja de la Flores — idem) A DAY IN CÓRDOBA The easiest way to travel from Sevilla is by train (see p.88). Before you go, make sure you switch to the Córdoba map in the Google Maps app, downloading it if necessary while still on WiFi. When you arrive in Córdoba, there is a Tourist Office at the railway station where you can pick up a map. Also, ask if they have a map for the Fiesta de los Patios (see below). The map available from the oficina de turismo is quite detailed and lists many of the attractions in Córdoba, so you will be able to use it to guide your walk around the city. But you want to get to the mezquita as early as possible, before it is overrun with coach parties (any time before about 1100 should be early enough). The walk from the railway station to the mezquita is just over a mile and about half an hour’s gentle walk.

Fiesta de los Patios 2019 Between 6 and 19 May, 50 private patios (courtyards) of houses in Córdoba take part in a competition. During this time all these patios are open to the public to visit. (1100-1400, 1800-2200). This is a rare opportunity to see the inside of cordobés homes, so I recommend that after visiting the Mezquita, you visit a few

173 Córdoba: A Day in Córdoba patios, especially as many of the attractions in this guide are closed on Monday! Those north east of the Mezquita are likely to be less busy that those in the heart of the Judería, so these are probably the best to visit — bearing in mind that they will close for lunch and siesta from 2pm. Therefore, what I suggest you do is ignore the suggested section entitled ‘South West of the Mezquita’ (p.182) altogether (you can return to it later if you wish) and visit some rarely-seen patios instead. All 50 are indicated on the companion Google Map. Those with a blue pin are mostly private homes which have opened especially for the competition, while those indicated with a burgundy pin are mostly patios that are open to the public throughout the year. An alternative map suggesting useful route around the patios in four local groups may be found here: http://patios.cordoba.es/es/patios The patio is a distinctive mark of andaluz architecture, and whilst one will often hear that it is a form ‘Moorish in origin’ that is not entirely true. It might be more accurate to say that its origin is simply ‘oriental’, for interior courtyards were a feature of Greek and Roman houses long before Islam existed. It is the ‘hortus inclusus’ of the Roman villa — the enclosed garden. The British may aspire to have a garden in front or behind their houses; the Spanish like to have a garden inside the house. Palacios might be built around more than one courtyard, and the grander houses will constitute a single dwelling around an interior patio, but patios are also a feature of more humble homes. After huge influxes during the 19th and early 20th centuries from the surrounding countryside, many palacios and grander homes were divided into single-room ‘houses’ to accommodate these internal refugees. The patio thus became a shared, but still private space. Much of the new and social housing constructed in Andalucía in the 20th century has followed the same pattern — very compact (one or two room) flats arranged around a central courtyard, a shared urban garden. The city of Málaga, for example is known for its corralones, mostly built by big employers and the municipal authorities. Like the (US) Polish flat or the (UK) Tyneside flat, the corralón is an imaginative style of social housing where small apartments with cantilevered balconies and walkways are arranged around a central courtyard (often with a fountain). This is the multi-occupancy version of the traditional andaluz house built around a patio.

174 Córdoba: A Day in Córdoba

Blocks of flats constructed around a shared space are hardly rare. Examples can be seen in most British cities, after all. The difference is that in Spain they seem to work, and people like them. Rather than being a windswept wasteland of broken glass and abandoned shopping trolleys, the central area is a common project, filled with flowers and lovingly cared for (partly because of competitions like the ones held in Córdoba and Málaga). The difference, perhaps, is that the shared spaces of UK social housing projects is shared, but not exclusive — it is entirely public space, to be used (or abused) by anyone. The patio of a corralón on the other hand, may be shared by a dozen families, but it is shared only by them. That creates a sense of ownership, and pride.

Walking from Córdoba Railway Station (RENFE) • Leave the railway station via the exit nearest the Tourist Information kiosk. See the map below. • Turn right out of the station and then immediately right again so that you are walking down the eastern wall of the station. When you reach the bottom of this path, turn left, and walk down to the main road (a large parking garage will be on your left). Cross over the pelican crossing (you need to wait for the light to change to green • On this corner turn right onto a wide boulevard called the Avenida de los Mozárabes and use the first pelican crossing to reach the central reservation, which is a park between the two carriageways.

175 Córdoba: A Day in Córdoba

• Continue walking straight ahead through the park until you reach a cross street. Cross over the pelican crossing and walk straight on through this park. • After about 300 metres you will come across a 19th century market (the Mercado de Victoria) which has been converted into a ‘gourmet’ food court. If you need refreshments, then this is a good place to grab a quick coffee/drink and something to eat. • After the market, bear gently left, so that you emerge onto the right-hand carriageway of what is now the Paseo de Victoria (i.e. the one which has traffic travelling in the opposite direction to you). • On your left, look out for a street called Calle Lope de Hoces — there is a photographic shop on the north corner and a pharmacy on the south corner. Cross over to the entrance of the street, but do not enter it! • Set off in the same direction in which you have been walking (which is south, by the way), on the same side of the street as the pharmacy. • On your left will be apartment buildings. After about 100 metres bear left, through the small park, keeping close to the buildings. • Another 100 metres further on you will see a large and ancient gateway to your left. This is the Puerta de Amodovar which is of Moorish origin (when it was known as Bab al-Chawz) and one of only three surviving medieval gates in Córdoba. The current structure is 14th century. Just outside the gate is a statue of Seneca, who was born in Córdoba (another famous Roman son, Lucan, is commemorated with a far more modest bust in the Plaza Eliej Nahmias). Walk through the gate and go straight ahead.

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• Keep an eye on the streets to your right. Walk past the Calle Judiós and take the next right, which is the narrow Calle Almanzor (see below) • Continue down Calle Almanzor which becomes Calle Romero (Rosemary Street). Once you reach a small open square (Plaza del Cardenal Salazar) you will be able to see the tower of the mezquita ahead of you. • At the bottom of Calle Romero, turn right into Calle Deanes, then first left into the Calle Judería. • Continue straight on and you will see the mezquita on your right. The entrance to the patio where the ticket office is is a few metres further on, on this side of the building.

Almanzor Abu ʿ Āmir Muḥammad bin ʿ Abdullāh ibn Abi ʿ Āmir, al-Ḥājib al-Manṣūr was de facto ruler of the Umayyad Caliphate of Córdoba between 978 and 1002. Born in Algeciras of Yemeni descent, he became tutor to Prince Hisham, son and heir of Caliph al-Hakam. When the caliph died, Almanzor rose to a position of prominence and power as hajib (what would be called vizier in the East) to the 12 year old Hisham (and very possibly the lover of Hisham’s mother, Subh). Distinguishing himself as an early fundamentalist and iconoclast, he ordered al-Hakam’s library (probably containing works of Greek authors preserved by Byzantine scribes) to be burned, and kept Hisham a virtual prisoner in Medina Azahara about 4 miles from Córdoba. It was almost certainly Almanzor’s actions, in diminishing the real power of the caliph, that hastened the fall of the Emirate of Córdoba and the fracture of Andalucía into less powerful taifas. MEZQUITA-CATEDRAL DE CÓRDOBA Cardenal Herrero 1 | Mon-Sun 1000-1900 | €10 | Bell-tower €2 at 00’ and 30’ | mezquita-catedraldecordoba.es Make sure you pick up a leaflet/map from the ticket office. Audio guides are €4 and, unless they have been re-recorded, somewhat difficult to follow. The guide map will probably be sufficient, especially as the mezquita is a building to experience as a ‘big picture’, rather than attend to the minutiae of its decoration and detail. Remember that if there are two of you, audio guides

177 Córdoba: Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba allow one to go forward and backward between ‘chapters’ so it would be possible to share.

History The Great Mosque of Córdoba was considered a wonder of the medieval world by both Muslims and Christians. It was built on the site of a 6th century Visigothic church dedicated to St Vincent the Martyr, which was probably the site of an earlier Hispano-Roman church and an even earlier Roman temple. Limited archaeological excavations have uncovered evidence not simply of a church, but a fairly extensive episcopal complex (4th-6th centuries) comprising church, bishop’s palace and school. The mezquita of Córdoba was begun between 784 and 786 during the reign of ‘Abd al-Rahman I, who escaped from Syria to the Iberian Peninsula after his family was massacred by a rival political dynasty. Entering the mezquita through the door on the southeastern corner of the courtyard you will find yourself in the part of the mosque added by al-Mansur (Almanzor) at the end of the 10th century. Turn right from here, and you will soon reach the original mosque, dating back to the 8th century. The 9th- century extension is to the south, and, beyond this, in the south-eastern corner of the building, is the section built by al-Hakam II in the 10th century; this last section is the most elaborate in its architecture and decoration, and contains the third mihrab, the maqsura, and a 13th-century mudéjar chapel, called the Capilla Villaviciosa. The 16th-century cathedral in the middle of the mezquita is a remarkable structure, generally either loved or hated, and mingling late gothic and renaissance elements, with 18th century carved choir stalls that, it must be admitted, blend well with the intricate ornamentation of the rest of the cathedral. The mosque's hypostyle plan, consisting of a rectangular prayer hall and an enclosed courtyard, followed a tradition established in the Umayyad and Abbasid mosques of Syria and Iraq. However, the dramatic articulation of the interior of the prayer hall was unprecedented. The system of columns supporting double arcades of piers and arches with alternating red and white voussoirs is an unusual and provided unprecedented height within the hall. Alternating red and white voussoirs are associated with Umayyad monuments such as the Great Mosque of Damascus and the Dome of the Rock.

178 Córdoba: Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba

Though the mosque was expanded by later rulers (the most significant changes dating from the reigns of ‘Abd al-Rahman II between 833-852, al-Hakam II between 961-976, and the vizier al-Mansur from 987), the basic formula of arcades with alternating voussoirs was maintained in each of the additions. The resulting vistas of columns and arcades are often described as a forest of stone. The comparison is heightened by rows of trees planted in the courtyard (Patio de las Naranjas or Court of the Oranges), which create a visual continuation of the rows of columns within the prayer hall. The most lavish interior ornament is concentrated in the maqsura, the prayer space reserved for the ruler, which was commissioned by the caliph al-Hakam II. The maqsura is visually separated from the rest of the prayer hall by screens formed of intersecting polylobed arcades, an elegant variation on the basic architectural theme set in the earliest incarnation of the mezquita. These screens emphasise the special status of the space, which is composed of three domed bays in front of the mihrab. The mihrab was unusual for taking the form of an entire room rather than the traditional niche, and for being flanked by two rooms whose entrances are decorated with mosaics in a manner similar to that of the mihrab. The maqsura is decorated with carved marble, stucco, and mosaics. These, executed in intricate vegetal scroll forms and Kufic inscriptions, frame the mihrab, the two doors which flank it, and also cover the interiors of the maqsura's three domes. The unusual arrangement of the maqsura space can be read on several levels. It may reflect the appropriation of a tri-apsidal arrangement found in local church architecture (though emptied in its new context of Christian connotations). It has also been interpreted as an ideological and iconographic evocation of the Mosque of the Prophet in Medina that served to underscore notions of Umayyad religious and political authority. After conquering Córdoba in 1236, Fernando III king of Castile had the Great Mosque consecrated as the city's cathedral. The Christian population of Córdoba used the former mosque with relatively minor changes for the next three hundred years. In the early 16th century the bishop and canons of the cathedral proposed the construction of a new cathedral, and proposed to demolish the mosque in order to build it. The opposition of the townspeople to the proposed destruction of the building led to the unprecedented decision, endorsed by the Holy Roman Emperor Carlos V, to insert an entire Gothic ‘chapel’ into the very heart of the former mezquita. The result is an uneasy and controversial juxtaposition: the soaring forms of a Gothic cathedral rise from

179 Córdoba: Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba the very centre of the comparatively low, sprawling prayer hall whose architectural vocabulary is rooted in the forms of classical antiquity. When Carlos V finally set eyes on the ‘renovated’ mezquita, he was not impressed, and exclaimed to the bishop at the time, ‘You have taken something unique in all the world and destroyed it to build something one might find in any city.’

Outside the Mezquita Before you leave the area where the mezquita is, make sure to walk around the perimeter and have a look at the exterior where you will see dozens of doors and gates which reflect the dominant architectural styles of the times of their creation (mudéjar, plateresque, baroque, neo-classical). AFTER THE MEZQUITA The Mezquita is on the river bank, so walk down to see the Roman Bridge (1st c. BC, but rebuilt in the 8th c. under the Moors) straight after, then you will probably want coffee or refreshments to see you through to lunch. Ordinarily I would suggest that after a stroll on the bridge (and coffee/refreshment if required), you walk west to the barrio of San Basilio. However, depending on time, now might be a good time to wander off and visit a few patios (see p.173), returning to this section later, if time allows, picking up the route in this guide once more on p.185. This is in the south western corner of historic Córdoba. From there you can see a few sites in the oldest part of the city (the former Jewish Quarter, La Judería) and then head back past the mezquita going east, away from the tourist throng. From here you can walk slowly back to the railway station through the old-but- not-ancient city centre, finding somewhere for lunch en route.

Puente Romano Avenida del Alcázar | Mon-Sun 24 hours | Free The Roman Bridge is nowadays also known as the ‘Old Bridge’, but until 1953 it was the only bridge across the Guadalquivir River. Built in the early first century AD, it replaced an earlier wooden bridge and was part of the route of

180 Córdoba: After the Mezquita the Via Augusta. This spectacular feat of Roman ingenuity began in Gades (Cádiz) and ran through Hispalis (Sevilla), then east through Corduba (Córdoba), sweeping down towards Carthago Nova (Cartagena) and, clinging to the mediterranean coastline, up through Tarraco (Tarragona) to Narbo Martius (Narbonne) where it joined the Via Domitia and thence to Rome. The River Guadalquivir which flows beneath the bridge is the river which flows through Sevilla and joins the sea at Sanlúcar de Barrameda (where Manzanilla sherry is made). At 400 miles, it is the fifth longest river in Spain. This is the river from which Columbus set sale on his third voyage. At the southern end of the bridge stands a defensive tower (Calahorra) and at its northern end the Puerta del Puente. This is fancifully called the Arc de Triomphe by locals, but it is simply one of the gates of the old wall. The current Puerta del Puente was built by the architect Hernán Ruiz II in 1572, so vanishing little masonry of Roman Era can now be identified. In the centre of the bridge is the ‘Triumph of San Rafael’, the work of the sculptor Bernabé Gómez del Río dating from 1651. It was closed to traffic remarkably recently — May 1, 2004. It has undergone reconstructions numerous times: in the Moorish era, after the Reconquest, and at the beginning of the 20th century. In the most recent renovation (2006) an existing niche dedicated to Saints Acisclo and Victoria was restored. The bridge is located in a small natural reserve, called the Sotos de la Albolafia. Many species of birds nest here (a total of 120 have been counted), some of them endangered species, which is all the more surprising if one takes into account the fact that the area of the reserve is only five acres. Hidden among the trees and vegetation are the remains of several defunct water mills. In 2014, some scenes for the fifth season of the TV series Game of Thrones were filmed on the bridge, which served as the bridge ‘Volantis’.

Cafés The most expensive places to eat and drink in Córdoba are those in the winding maze of streets in the oldest part of the city, north west of the mezquita. ‘Expensive’ is of course a relative term. The average cost of an espresso (café solo) is €1.20, so to pay €2 would be considered exorbitant by Spaniards. Compared with approaching £5 on the UK high street that is perhaps still

181 Córdoba: After the Mezquita cheap. As you stand on the bridge facing the mezquita, look to your right along the river bank and you will see a number of café/restaurants. These are likely to be reasonably priced places to grab a coffee as they are just outside the labyrinth

Alcázar Plaza Campo Santo de los Mártires | Tue-Fri 0830-2045 | €4.50 Nearby is the Alcázar — an 8th c. Moorish palace built on a Visigothic (and later Moorish) fortress and which much later became the Palace of Fernando and Isabel, and at one point the HQ of the Inquisition. It has some Roman mosaics displayed in the museum, I seem to recall. As you stand on the bridge facing the mezquita, you are looking north and the Alcázar is to the west (slightly north west). It was built by King Alfonso XI in 1328 and although it is interesting and impressive in its way, the Alcázar in Sevilla is far better preserved and a finer example of Moorish architecture. If your intention in Córdoba is to explore as much of its Moorish past as you can, then do visit, but otherwise I suspect you will find it rather pedestrian after the Alcázar. SOUTH WEST FROM THE MEZQUITA

San Basilio Map: A | B | C | Calle de San Basilio San Basilio is named after the saint to whom the parish of Nuestra Señora de la Paz (Our Lady of Peace) was dedicated. Its history goes back to the years immediately following Córdoba’s reconquest in 1236. The barrio has three main streets which run parallel to each other: Postera, Enmedio and San Basilio. Unlike the winding streets elsewhere in the city centre, they are perfectly

182 Córdoba: South West from the Mezquita straight: a more rational approach to urban planning. By contrast, the generally two-storey, whitewashed houses are in the Arab style, arranged as they are around central courtyards or patios forming a neighbourhood known as Los Patios Cordobeses. From the late 14th century, the area was occupied by Jewish converts (‘conversos’) who created a ghetto. An attempt to banish them failed, thanks to mediation by the Catholic monarchs in 1479. However, as a result of poor sanitation, they were later moved to nearby San Nicolas de la Villa. At the beginning of the 15th century, an effort was made to combat the city's lagging population by accommodating crossbowmen and their families there, especially as they could also man the surrounding defences. At Calle San Basilio 44 (marked ‘A’ on the map above) is the headquarters of the Association of the Friends of the Patios of Córdoba where you can see a traditional cordobés patio (admission free). One of the most interesting structures in San Basilio is the Torre de Belén (Tower of the Virgin of Bethlehem — Map: B), a fine example of a former defensive gate providing access to a walled enclosure. The parish Church of San Basilio, on the site of a monastery founded in 1590, is built in the 17th-century Baroque style with period decoration (Map: C).

Averroes Statue Map: D | Calle Cairuan A statue of Ibd-Rushd (Averroes) is a hundred or so metres up Calle Cairuan.

Maimonides and The Zoco Map: E | F | Calle Judíos If you want to see the Averroes statue, continue up the street to the Almodóvar Gate and then walk down the Calle Judíos (this area was the Jewish Quarter); or else retrace your steps towards the river and at the corner of the Alcázar, take a left turn to walk up the Calle Tomás Conde, which in due course will lead into the Calle Judíos from the south. Just after the Plaza Maimónides is another small square with a statue of Maimonides himself (Map: E). A few metres further on, on the right is a small handicrafts market called the Zoco Municipal arranged around a traditional patio (Map: F). After looking at the market (or not), retrace your steps to the

183 Córdoba: South West from the Mezquita

Plaza Maimónides and there turn left. Go through the small arch and turn left. On your right is the Capilla Mudéjar.

Capilla Mudéjar: Iglesia de San Bartolomé Map: G | Calle Averroes | Mon-Sat 1030-1330, 1530-1830 | €1.50 Following an attack on the Jewish quarter in 1391, and the later exodus or conversion of Jews to Christianity, the barrio of San Bartolomé was founded. In this district the small church of San Bartolomé—which remained unfinished - was built in the late 14th century, replacing a mosque. During the first half of the fifteenth century was added a funerary chapel devoted to Santiago (St James), that is one of the finest works of Mudéjar art to be found in Córdoba, along with de Royal Chapel of the Mezquita-Catedral and the Synagogue. NB **The sinagoga is close on Mondays.** The word mudéjar comes from the Arabic term mudayyan meaning ‘he who has been allowed to remain’. The term is used to describe those Muslims that stayed in the territories after the reconquista and were permitted, at least initially, to retain their religion, language and customs. Mudéjar art is a hybrid artistic style combining Hispano-Muslim decorative and architectural elements with other styles in vogue at the time. The chapel preserves its original 15th-century floors of brick and glazed tiles, as well as the geometric wall mosaics similar to those found in the Royal Chapel. The intricate Mudéjar plasterwork on the walls is decorated with latticework, the coat of arms of the Order of the Band (named after the band that the king awarded his most loyal noblemen) delicate ataurique (repeated vegetable or floral motif) stucco adornments, and Kufi and Nasji inscriptions praising Allah. Restoration work carried out in 1933 revealed an extraordinary collection of thirty-five Nazari tiles on the front of the dais leading to the altar. The tiles, which depict hunting scenes, musicians, minstrels and real and imaginary animals in what is believed to be an allegory of the senses, now form part of the Archaeological Museum’s collection.

184 Córdoba: East of the Mezquita

EAST OF THE MEZQUITA

From the Capilla Mudéjar, walk further on into the Plaza Cardenal Salazar and turn right onto Calle Romero. This is the route you took from the railway station to the mezquita. Take the same route (right onto Calle Deanes, left onto Calle Judería) to bring you once more to the mezquita. The area to the east of the Mezquita has much of the charm of the Judería, but with fewer tourist souvenir shops and thus, fewer tourists. A popular spot for tourists to visit is the Calleja de las Flores (lane of the flowers) which is beautiful, but often busy. If you want to have a quick look then it can be reached by taking the Calle Velázquez Bosco north of the mezquita and the Calleja de las Flores is the first on the right. One of Córdoba’s best known leather workshops — Meryan (Cueros de Córdoba) — has a small shop at No. 2 Calleja de la Flores. Most of Meyran’s business is online and their creations are traditionally cordobés, with use of coloured leather and tooled designs. The old English word for a leatherworker is, of course, cordwainer, via the Norman French term for a native of Córdoba.

185 Córdoba: East of the Mezquita

The reputation of the city for leatherwork was well established by the 10th century. PALACIO DE LOS PÁEZ DE CASTILLEJO Plaza de Jerónimo Páez, 7 | Map I On the Plaza de Jerónimo Páez — reached from the mezquita by following the Calle Encarnación (turn right at the end, then first left) — is a renaissance palace with an attractively ornate facade and a cool, patio-dominated interior housing the town’s archaeological museum (but is closed on Mondays); among its most important pieces are finds from the caliph’s summer palace at Medina Azahara. PLAZA DEL POTRO Plaza del Potro | Map J The narrow Plaza del Potro, further east, is one of Córdoba’s most delightful small squares, and comes down almost to the river. The house at the top of the square belongs to the guitarist Paco Peña, and is the headquarters of his guitar school. On the square’s western side is a building which was once the Potro Inn, an inn mentioned by Cervantes; built around a narrow courtyard with wooden balconies, this has now been restored to house a permanent display of old cordobés leatherwork from medieval times up to the 18th century. Opposite is the former Charity Hospital, founded under the Catholic monarchs and now containing the town’s Museo de Bellas Artes and a museum dedicated to the local painter Julio Romero de Torres — both of which are closed on Mondays. A plaque outside the latter indicates that the building was the birthplace of Romero de Torres, and that he also lived and died here. By now, especially if you have been visiting patios, the time has probably come for some gastronomic refreshment. At the bottom of the Plaza del Potro (towards the river) is the Taberna del Potro which is reliable if unexciting. On the other hand it also has shrine to St Raphael the Archangel (patron saint of Córdoba) outside the lavatories (complete with votive lights). Slightly more up-market, but still reasonably priced, is the old Taberna de San Francisco, now called the Taberna Plateros which is built around a glazed patio just off the Plaza del Potro’s north-western corner (Map: K — it can be

186 Córdoba: Plaza del Potro entered from either the Calle de San Francisco or the parallel Calle Romero Barro). Dating back to 1872, this was for over a century the headquarters of the Sociedad de Plateros (Society of Silver Workers), which was founded in 1868 to assist silver-workers who had fallen on hard times. The large room off the patio is now used as a Flamenco Club, attended by the likes of Paco Peña; but the place is still in the possession of the Sociedad de Plateros, who own some of the finest of Córdoba’s old taverns, including, until recently, the nearby and exceptionally beautiful Bar Los Plateros (on the Plaza de Seneca), which has columns supporting a wooden beam ceiling. That bar is now a hotel, hence the change of name of the old Taberna de San Francisco. This would be a good place to sample both the Vinos de la Tierra (tintos and rosados) of the Córdoba region, and the sherry-style wines of Montilla-Moriles. PLACES TO EAT

Taberna Plateros Calle San Francisco 6 | www.tabernaplateros.com Very traditional! See above.

187 Córdoba: Places to Eat

Taberna Los Palcos Calle Cardenal González 45 A deservedly popular restaurant/bar offering an interesting menú del día for €8.90 (3 courses, including bread and a drink). The food is homemade and if you don’t fancy the daily menú, then there is an extensive tapas menu.

La Taberna del Río Calle Enrique Romero de Torres 7 | www.latabernadelrio.com Excellent food in a beautiful restaurant with a terrace overlooking the river.

Canadian Rio Ronda de Isasa 4 Another riverside location with a reliably good quality selection of tapas and raciones.

Restaurante La Boca Calle San Fernando 39 An excellent menú del día for €9.50

AFTER LUNCH With municipal museums closed on Mondays, and most churches closed in the afternoon, if you worry that you have time to kill, then you can go back and do the ‘South West of the Mezquita’ section (p.182). There is also a small museum about the history of Córdoba and ‘Cordoban Life’ located in the Moorish Torre De Calahorra at the southern end of the Roman Bridge. It’s a bit of an unreflective hymn of praise to the Judeo-Christian-Islamic ‘Andalucían Paradise’, but an interesting history of the city nonetheless.

Torre De Calahorra Puente Romano | www.torrecalahorra.es | €4.50 An additional charge of €3 is made if you wish to see the video-presentation.

188 Córdoba: After Lunch

Also open (and free!), with a break for lunch, is:

Casa-Museo del Guadamecí Omeya Plaza Agrupación de Cofradías 2 | www.artesobrepiel.com An exhibition curated by Ramón García Romero and José Carlos V. García which explores the techniques of Umayyad era leatherwork and its legacy. Perhaps a niche interest, but this is one of the most consistently highly-rated museums in Córdoba.

189 Córdoba: North of the Plaza del Potro

NORTH OF THE PLAZA DEL POTRO The Calle Armas leads north from the Plaza del Potro to La Corredera (Map: L), a large 17th century arcaded square inspired by Castilian models; used once for bull-fights, theatrical spectacles and other public entertainments (and executions), this has now been transformed into an elegant and fashionable space lined with cafes and bars. Leaving the square from the north west corner (Calle Rodríguez Marín) will bring you face to face with the main facade of an ugly modern Town Hall in front of which are the much-restored columns of a Roman Temple and a section of the original Roman walls (Map: M). If you have time (allow about half an hour to reach the railway station from most point in the city) you could walk past the Town Hall and turn right (east) on to the Calle San Pablo and enter a fascinating but little visited part of Cordoba. Half-way down the Calle San Pablo, on the Plazuela de Orive (Map: N), is the House of Villalones, a small, elegant renaissance structure crowned by a loggia. The pleasant Plaza San Andres (Map: O), further down the street, features a late medieval church (though closed in the afternoon) and another modest renaissance house.

190 Córdoba: Palacio de los Marqueses de Viana

PALACIO DE LOS MARQUESES DE VIANA Plaza de Don Gome, 2 | Map P A five-minute walk north of the Plaza San Andres will take you to one of the most enjoyable of Córdoba's architectural attractions. This, the Palacio de los Marqueses de Viana (Map: P), is a 14th- to 18th-century building boasting no fewer than fourteen patios and gardens; the interior, which can be visited (but not on Monday, alas), is splendidly furnished and has a well- known collection of cordobés leatherwork. In front of the nearby medieval Royal Church of Santa Marina de Aguas Santas (one of Iberia’s home- grown Roman martyrs | Map: Q) is a monument to the bull- fighter Manolete, and a bar — once much frequented by matadors — decorated with bull-fighting souvenirs and specialising in deep-fried boquerones (anchovies).

191 Córdoba: Palacio de los Marqueses de Viana

West from the Palacio Viana, in the Plaza Capuchinos, is the Cristo de los Paroles: a statue of Christ encased by black railings supporting lanterns; this square is particularly attractive at night (Map: R). The square is just south of the spacious Plaza de Colon, which has in its northeastern corner a 15th-century brick tower forming part of the town's original fortifications. Called the Torre de la Malmuerta (‘Bad Death’ | Map: S), it was reputedly built as an act of contrition by a nobleman who had killed his adulterous wife and her servants. Much of the western side of the square is taken up by the former 18th-century convent of La Merced (now the seat of local government offices | Map: T), the most important and colourful of Cordoba’s baroque buildings. The railway station is to the west, on the Avenida de América (about 15 minutes’ walk).

192 GRANADA: GRANADA GRANADA LO BÁSICO — BACKGROUND INFORMATION City: Granada Province: Granada Autonomous Community: Andalucía City rank (Spain): 17th Airport Rank (Spain): 27th Foundation: 5500 BC (Ibero-Celtic) Population (City): 232,208 Government: Ayuntamiento (City Council) Head of Government: Francisco Cuenca (PSOE) since 2016 Budget (2017): €265 million

Demonyms: granadino, -a | iliberitano, -a Motto: Very noble, very loyal, named, great, celebrated and heroic city of Granada Primary Patron: Our Lady of Sorrows Patrons: Saints Cecilio and John of God

DIRECTORY

British Consulate (Malaga) + 34 952 35 23 00 Spanish Police Tourist Helpline + 34 902 10 21 12 | 0900-2100

193 GRANADA: Directory

Pharmacy (24 hours) Farmacia Miguel Martín Valverde | Calle Reyes Católicos 5 | www.farmaciamartinvalverde24h.com Emergency Number 112 Health Emergency Number 061 Taxis Order through hotel font desk, or the nearest rank is in the Plaza Nueva. UBER also operates in Granada, but is not yet very large. Tourist Information en.granadatur.com/ Calle Santa Ana 4 (near Plaza Nueva) Calle Cárcel Baja 3 (near Cathedral) Plaza del Carmen (by the Town Hall)

¿Cómo llegar? — Arriving b Come out of the bus station to street level. Outside the bus station on the Avenida Juan Pablo II there are a number of bus stops. Find the one served by bus No. 33 (direction: ‘Pinillos’) — it is on the same side of the road as the bus station building. If you can, locate a ticket vending machine to check the balance on the ‘CrediBus’ multiviaje bus card, and top up if necessary (you will need at least €2 credit for two people to travel to the city centre). You will need cash for 2 x €1.40 singles if not. Wait for the 33, which leaves every 9-12 minutes during the day. The bus journey is just under 20 minutes. After about 8 stops, you need to get off at the stop called Gran Vía 5 – Catedral (the Cathedral will be on your right). Continue walking ahead and you will come to an open square with a statue of Queen Isabel. Turn left here, onto the Calle Reyes Católicos.

194 ¿Cómo llegar? — Arriving: ¿Cómo llegar? — Arriving

After 100m you will walk through a wider section of road — this is the Plaza Nueva and Plaza de Santa Ana. Walk through these squares. After another 100m look out for a small bar called La Fontana on your left. To your right is a low stone footbridge over the river. Walk up the steps to your left, leading up from La Fontana. The hotel is in front of you. From bus stop to hotel is about 7 minutes’ walk. GETTING TO THE AIRPORT You can book tickets for the relevant airport bus (the timetable is supposed to tesselate with the flight timetable, so check online for any significant flight delays before you leave) here: www.alsa.com/en/web/bus/destination/granada For departure type: Granada. Palacio de Congresos then select Aeropuerto Granada as the destination. b The nearest bus stop to the hotel is Gran Vía Colón-Santa Lucía which I have marked on the Google Map. It is outside an insurance office called ‘Santa Lucia’, on the opposite side of the road to the Capilla Real. About 10 yards further along the pavement is a regular local bus stop. The airport bus, which will usually be cream coloured with a green trip, may stop anywhere on this stretch of pavement! The airport bus is scheduled to stop on the Gran Vía only 5 minutes after it departs from the terminus, so be there in plenty of time! The journey from here to the airport is 40 minutes.

195 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings BETWEEN THE CENTRE AND THE ALHAMBRA Built beneath the snowcapped peaks of the Sierra Nevada, at the easternmost edge of the fertile plain or ‘vega’ formed by the río Genil, Granada is one of the most beautifully situated of all Spanish towns, and has been since the early 19th century one of the principal tourist destinations of Europe. This town of fabled reputation was actually an obscure place in ancient and early Christian times, and even under the Moors it only rose to fame after 1241 when Ibn Nasr, founder of the Nasrid dynasty, established here the capital of his empire. After its capture by Fernando and Isabel in 1492, the town was troubled by racial tensions, yet it continued to have a great cultural importance and was embellished by numerous splendid renaissance buildings. Later the town became the main baroque centre of Andalucía after Sevilla, and among the distinguished figures of the period who worked here were the painter, sculptor and architect Alonso Cano (the ‘Spanish Michelangelo’), the sculptor Pedro de Mena, the painter Sánchez Cótan and the architect Hurtado Izquierdo. Cultural decline set in during the late 18th century and coincided with the town's growth as a tourist centre. In the 1920’s the poet Garcia Lorca and the musician Manuel de Falla brought new distinction to the cultural life of Granada, but both were depressed by the modern aspects of the town and preferred to dream about its distant, Moorish past. By their time much of medieval, renaissance and baroque Granada had been badly affected by insensitive modern development. Until very recently, charming old corners of the town were being brutally pulled down and the city authorities seemed blind to graffiti and petty vandalism. Garcia Lorca described the people of Granada as ‘the worst bourgeoisie in the world’, and for anyone coming to Granada from Sevilla it is certainly striking how generally more dour and conservative the people here are. However, Granada has a far more animated university life than Sevilla, and the town’s countless lively student bars help partially to compensate for the place’s inherently sober character. Moreover, Granada has the attraction of being a much cheaper place than Sevilla, and the renowned food of this area can be

196 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra had in bars and restaurants at pleasingly low prices (particularly good are the hams, sausages, and broad bean dishes. Finally, for the sightseer, Granada still has a vast amount to offer quite apart from the Alhambra. This introductory ‘walk’ can only rush rapidly through the town's main attractions, and there is really no substitute for taking several relaxed strolls, tourist information map in hand. Most tours of Granada begin in, or involve, the Alhambra, and many people come to the town without visiting any other monument. The popularity of this large complex has now grown to such proportions that entry is possible only with a ‘timed’ (and usually pre-booked) ticket. And it is a ‘complex’, containing many buildings, churches, museums, gardens, and even hotels. The time- controlled (and expensive) tickets are for the Generalife and Nadrid Palaces. If you want to visit the Museo de Bellas Artes (free for EU citizens) or have lunch in the restaurant of the Parador, then you do not need to pay for entry to the Alhambra, even though both are inside the complex. The most enjoyable and tranquil approach to the Alhambra is on foot from the lower town, following the itinerary I describe below (or reverse-engineering one of the two ‘downward’ itineraries), but there is a bus, which deposits you by the main entrance (take the C30 or C32 from Calle Pavaneras, which is just south of the Plaza Isabel Católica — a ride of less than 10 minute).

TO THE ALHAMBRA I suggest you walk up to the Alhambra by the most direct (and gentle) route. This basically follows the Cuesta de Gómerez (marked as a pink line on the companion Google Map). Take the steps down from your hotel and cross the low stone bridge opposite La Fontana bar. Over the bridge then up some steps, checking (for future reference) the menu of Negro Cárbon — a well-regarded restaurant serving grilled meat dishes on your left — on the way. As you reach the narrow street (Calle Santa Ana) turn right and walk about 200 m, passing behind the Church of San Gil & Santa Ana, and the Royal Chancery. At the end of the street, turn left on the Cuesta de Gómerez. After just under 200 m more you will see the Puertas Las Granadas — ‘The Gate of the Pomegranates’ erected in 1536 as the solemn entrance to the Alhambra Gate, designed by Pedro Machuca (the same

197 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra architect behind the Palace of Charles V which like this, carved in stone to have ‘pillow-like’ appearance). In the tympanum we see Imperial shield, with the allegorical figures of Peace and Abundance, crowned by the three large pomegranate, hence the name. This Renaissance gate replaced another Islamic one, the remains of which can be seen to the right. Through the gate is the Bosque (Forest) of the Alhambra, dividing into three walks. We will take the central one (‘The Coach Drive’), but the right fork leads around and then down the hill towards the city, while the left, formerly called the ‘Paved’ Cuesta (slope), has at its beginning a devotional marble cross (1641) and leads to the southern flank of the wall of the Alhambra and the ‘Justice Gate’ which is another point of access to the Alhambra (but not for those visiting the Nasrid Palaces). After 350 metres, you will see to your left the reconstructed Puerta de Birrambla, a gate that once stood at the entrance to the Bib-Rambla, the area west of the Cathedral. It was demolished in 1884, but in the 1930s the restorer of the Alhambra, Leopoldo Torres Balbás, rebuilt the gate in the Alhambra forest. A little further on, on your left once more, you will find a memorial to Ángel Ganivet, a writer and diplomat who wrote ‘Granada the Beautiful’ in 1895. Suffering from syphilitic paralysis for some years, he drowned himself in 1898, at the age of 33 (after being rescued, he managed to throw himself back into the river). Nearby is a fountain known at the ‘fountain of the tomato’, and 150 metres ahead is another called the ‘fountain of the pepper’ (pimiento). No one knows exactly why they have these names, although most people seem to think they are references to much older fountains now long gone. In front of you will be the Hotel Washington Irving, which was thought in the late 19th century to be one of the most luxurious hotels in Spain. Today the place has a gloomy, run-down character. But what can one expect from a chain that calls itself ‘Eurostars’? Inside the Alhambra is an altogether different sort of hotel: the Parador of Granada — a converted 16th century Franciscan friary in which Fernando and Isabel were temporarily laid to rest while the Capilla Real was being constructed.

198 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra

Paradores — an unlikely success story A parador (from the verb parar, meaning ‘to stop’ or ‘to stay’) is a state-run hotel. In most countries this would be something to avoid at all costs, perhaps reminiscent of the ghastly Intourist hotels of the Soviet Union. One might think that in bureaucratic, inefficient Spain, this would be doubly the case, but Spanish paradores are among the best hotels in the country, synonymous with luxury. The government owned company that runs Spain’s almost one hundred paradores was a project of that tourist- minded monarch, King Alfonso XIII. In 1911, he established a Royal Tourism Commission and in due course appointed The Marqués de la Vega- Inclán as commissioner for tourism. In the 1960s, as part of a new spirit of openness and international engagement, the Franco regime would settle upon the slogan, ‘Spain is different’ to attract tourists. The background to this was the Second Spanish Republic, the ensuing Civil War and then Spain’s half-hearted neutrality during the Second World War. The background of King Alfonso’s push to encourage tourism was essentially the nineteenth century, which had been fairly calamitous for Spain having begun with Napoleon’s brother on the Spanish throne, then a return to the House of Bourbon under the reactionary Fernando VII under whom Spain lost most of her colonial possessions. Fernando’s daughter Isabel (known to the English as Isabella II) may or may not have been a nymphomaniac, but the fact of her sex (rather than sex life) led to the Carlist Wars (the prospect of a female monarch was unacceptable to many). After Isabel was deposed as queen, Spain elected the second son of King Victor Emmanuel II to reign as King Amadeo. He managed this for three years before declaring that the Spanish people were not so merely ‘different’ but ‘ungovernable’. The short-lived First Spanish Republic gave way to the restoration of the Bourbon monarchy in the person of Alfonso XII, Isabel’s son and the father of Alfonso XIII. After such a long period of continuous upheaval, it is little wonder that Alfonso XIII wanted to bring a sense of openness to the nation he ruled. As well as marrying a granddaughter of Queen Victoria, Princess Victoria Eugenie of Battenberg, he was keen for Spain to hold her own when it came

199 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra

to offering visitors style and luxury. Yet, while Alfonso is usually credited as the founder of Madrid hotels like the Ritz and the Palace, and the eponymous Alfonso XIII in Sevilla, the real dynamo of the first Spanish tourism boom was the Marquis of Vega-Inclán. During a military and diplomatic career Vega-Inclán visited London, Paris and Berlin, indulging his passion for art. His first significant project was the creation of the El Greco museum in Toledo and he would later oversee the restoration of that city’s 14th century synagogue. After being named by Alfonso as tourism commissioner Vega-Inclán visited the United States, publicising the cultural riches of Spain. Later projects would include the restoration of the Alhambra of Granada (a near derelict ruin when Irving Washington stayed, or rather squatted, there in the 1820s) and the Royal Alcázar of Sevilla. He also saved another ruin — the house of Miguel de Cervantes in Valladolid — and founded the Museum of Romanticism in Madrid. But his greatest legacy was the foundation of Spain’s Patronato Nacional de Turismo (National Tourist Board) in 1928 and the nationwide network of paradores. Many paradores are former monasteries, castles or royal palaces, such as the Hostel of the Catholic Monarchs in Santiago de Compostella which began as a place of lodging for pilgrims in 1486 and is widely regarded as the oldest continuously operating hotel in the world. These historic properties are classed under the invented term ‘esentia’ suggesting that even state owned companies are in thrall to brand consultants. Modern- build paradores are categorised as either ‘civia’ (city centre) or ‘naturia’ (on the coast or in areas of natural beauty), two further faux-Latin neologisms.

After you have finished your tour of the Alhambra there is a wonderful and surprisingly little used footpath that will take you to the eastern end of the Carrera del Darro (the street at the bottom of the steps outside your hotel). This shaded path, known at the top as the Cuesta de los Chinos before becoming the Cuesta del Rey Chico, runs between the Alhambra and the Generalife and passes underneath the bridge linking the two sites. You access it (it is indicated in green on the ‘Alhambra’ layer of the map) from the Taxi Rank near the main entrance — look for ‘Restaurante La Mimbre’ (though I do not recommend eating there!). When it comes to finding your

200 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra route, remember that you have probably exited the Alhambra complex by the Justice Gate, so you may need to take a minute to find your bearings again.

EL REY CHICO Abu’Abd Allah was born in the Alhambra Palace. His name was pronounced ‘bu-ab-di-lah’ from which in andaluz pronunciation with its knack of cutting short every word became ‘Boabdil’. His nickname of ‘el rey chico’ (the small king) did not in fact have anything to do with his stature but referred to the size of his ever-diminishing kingdom. He came to the throne in 1482 deposing Abul Hassan Ali with the help of Christian allies, and became Muhammed XII, the last Nasrid king of Granada. To gain more prestige, Boabdil attempted to invade the region of Castile but was captured and imprisoned in the castle at Lucena. After three years, in exchange for his liberty, Boabdil agreed to govern Granada under the Catholic kings. The next six years saw more frequent civil wars and the city fell on 2 January 1492 and, four days later, after total capitulation by its inhabitants, the reconquista was complete. Boabdil was granted a fiefdom in the region of Las Alpujarras and left Granada by the southern route to La Zubia. About 12 kilometres from the city he paused at a mountain pass before descending to Padul, looked back at his birthplace, his palace and his kingdom and sighed for what he had lost. His mother travelling with him is said to have been unsympathetic, telling him: “You weep like a woman for what you could not defend like a man.” The Puerto del Suspiro del Moro (the Pass of the Moor;s Last Sigh), around 860 metres above sea level, is the last place on that road from where the Alhambra Palace can be seen.

REALEJO Another route back into the city — and the steepest — takes you through the barrio known as the Realejo (sometimes as ‘Realejo-San Matías’). Begin from the Ángel Ganivet Statue and Tomato Fountain walking down towards the Hotel Alhambra Palace. Though it must be a far more cheerful place to stay than the Washington Irving, standing just outside the forest and enjoying a magnificent panorama over southern Granada; this hotel, opened in 1910, is

201 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra unfortunately a considerable eyesore from the outside, a monstrous neo- Moorish structure in garish ochre. It would be more suited to Las Vegas. Turning left in front of the gaudy hotel, walk down the hill. Off to the left is a little street at the bottom of which is the simple and evocative home of the Spanish composer, Manuel de Falla, now a museum. The route hairpins back, passing the parish church of San Cecilio (viz. St Cecil, patron saint of Granada). San Cecilio was one of the ‘Seven Apostolic Men’ ordained in Rome by St Peter and St Paul and sent to evangelise Iberia, thus he is considered to have founded the Archdiocese of Granada in AD 64. He was martyred, possibly at Sacromonte, in the reign of Nero. Unless you happen to be passing San Cecilio church at exactly the moment that mass is taking place, you will be able to look inside. And, alas, this is the case for many churches in Granada. Most remain closed when there is no liturgy taking place. A little further on, you walk past the Plaza Campo del Príncipe, the lower side of which is lined by open-air bars and is a favourite meeting place at night (the Nasrid dynasty held celebrations and public events on this site). It owes its name and current appearance to the Catholic Monarchs, who in 1497 widened the square and renamed it in honour of the recent marriage of their son Juan, Prince of Asturias, to Margaret (Margarita) of Austria. Realejo’s visitors must make three wishes to the famous image of Cristo de los Favores (Christ of Favours) that has stood in the middle of the square since 1682. The marriage between Juan and Margarita was happy, but tragically short. Contemporaries report that both had loving, passionate, and loving natures and were well matched. We might say nowadays that they could not keep their hand off one another. The 19 year old Juan died a year after their marriage, from tuberculosis, but the standard account is that he died of ‘sexual overexertion’. Margarita would give birth to their stillborn daughter two months later. A short detour to the south is the beautiful square and early 16th century church of Santo Domingo, the façade of which features a triple-arched portico covered in frescos. West of the square, on the Calle Pavaneras, in the attractive 16th century Casa de los Tiros, which has a modest museum and a collection of documents, some relating to Washington Irving — the 19th century Dan Brown. However, there are other exhibits and it is an interesting building (especially the polychromatic ceiling of the cuadra dorada (‘golden room’) and

202 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra the plateresque doors. Besides, it’s free for EU citizens. Behind this building a maze of streets lined with Moorish houses and gardens climbs up to the Alhambra Hill and gives a sense of how this area might have looked in the medieval period. You are in the centre of Granada’s Judería.

The Realejo The city’s old Jewish quarter is now an eclectic and multicultural district. Jews lived here well before the 8th century arrival of the Moors, who called this area Garnata al-Yahud (Granada of the Jews). After the Sephardi Jews were expelled from the Iberian Peninsula following the Christian conquest of the city in 1492 and the ‘Alhambra Edict’, the neighbourhood remained virtually uninhabited for some time and it was renamed Realejo (from the Spanish word meaning ‘to move away’). This is when the district, which still features the typical steep streets with steps of Jewish quarters, lost most of its synagogues, which became the sites of churches and residential palaces. The 17,000 residents of the realejo are to this day nicknamed ‘greñúos’— in reference to the curly hair of past Sephardi inhabitants. Realejo houses a number of tourist attractions that represent Granada’s overlapping cultures throughout history. One example is the statue of the ‘wise Jew’ from Granada, Judah ben Saul ibn Tibón, located just a few steps from Plaza de Isabel La Católica. The renowned Casa de los Tiros, a gorgeous 16th century building with a fortified tower, belonged to the Granada- Venegas family, descendants of noble Nasrids who renounced their origins — and surnames — to convert to Christianity after Granada was conquered. Cuesta del Realejo is an example of a typical street (with steps) of the Jewish quarter. The top of Mauror Hill has been watched over for centuries by the Torres Bermejas, a defensive bastion that may be older than the Alhambra, from the era of the Zirid dynasty. Footnote: The ‘Alhambra Edict’ was formally and symbolically revoked on 16 December 1968, on the 100th anniversary of constitutional protection of religious liberty in Spain. In 1924, the regime of Primo de Rivera had granted Spanish citizenship to the entire Sephardic Jewish diaspora. In 2015 the Spanish Parliament passed a law recognizing as Spanish those presumed to be descendants of the Jews expelled in 1492, thereby annulling the consequences of that expulsion.

203 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra

The Calle Pavaneras leads west from the museum the Plaza Isabel la Católica, a very ugly modern square at the southern end of the turn of the century Gran Vía de Colón. Before reaching this square you will pass near the Casa de Vinos, a wine bar standing next to where the gate of the old Jewish quarter once was; the bar itself, very popular with students has an excellent range of wines and a friendly atmosphere. The Gran Vía is taken by many to be evidence of granadinos’ philistine nature. Richard Ford referred to their ‘stagnating in bookless ignorance’ and remarked that when the beauty of the Alhambra was mentioned, they merely shrugged. In the 19th century, every major city in Spain wanted a ‘Gran Vía’, and Granada was no exception. In every case, constructing a ‘Great Way’ would necessarily mean demolishing some of the medieval footprint of the city, but this was achieved with vary degrees of success and sensitivity. Madrid’s Gran Vía is a gem of Belle Époque magnificence, and Málaga’s Calle Larios is one of the most beautiful boulevards anywhere. Granada’s attempt, however, is a triumph only of insensitivity, lined with monstrously out of proportion shops and apartments. It was partly the Gran Vía to which Lorca was referring when he wrote that ‘Granada is horrible’. He may be celebrated as Granada’s foremost poet today, but Lorca’s ability to speak harsh truths did not endear him to his fellow granadinos at the time, and few shed tears when he was assassinated by Republican forces in 1936. We hear often that tourism destroys the authenticity of local cultures, but in Granada’s case it has saved a city from itself, by showing what is worthy of admiration.

PLAZA NUEVA The Plaza Nueva, a few minutes’ walk east from the Plaza Isabel La Católica, is surrounded by hotels and has a number of open-air bars favoured largely by tourists. At the northwestern corner of the square are the Bodegas Castañeda, a famous old bar that has now been divided into two separate institutions as a result of a family dispute; both do an excellent house aperitif which is strong enough to bring a day's sight-seeing to an end. As you head east through the square you will pass on your left what is now the city’s Law Court (originally the Chancellery). The building, one of the finest renaissance structures in Granada, is in a majestic Italianate style and has a most elegant courtyard, probably designed by Diego de Siloe — Siloe was certainly responsible for the two structures that dominate the eastern and southern sides of the square into

204 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra which the Plaza Nueva leads, the Plaza de Santa Ana; to the east is the church of Santa Ana (with a tall and stylish bell-tower), and to the south is Siloe's last known work, the Pilar del Toro (before 1559) — a renaissance fountain with elegant if faded classical carvings. By now you have left modern(ish) commercial Granada and are suddenly back in a quiet part of town which has changed little since the time when it was admired for its picturesqueness by travellers on the ‘Grand Tour’. Beside the church of Santa Ana runs the fast-flowing stream of the Darro, which divides the Alhambra hill from that of the Albaicín. The Darro is so called because in Roman times people panned for gold (auro) here. Until 1990 it was still possible to find freshwater crab and trout, but these disappeared following the devastating drought that affected central Spain that year. The river is culverted under the Plaza Nueva and eventually flows in the Genil. Walking up the delightful Carrera del Darro, you will pass first the extraordinary Moorish baths at No. 31. Bath-houses were major players in the drama of the reconquista. After the reconquista the medina was Christianised, with mosques converted into churches, and the bath-houses were closed. Medieval Europeans generally were not known for their personal cleanliness, with Elizabeth I of England boasting that she bathed once a month ‘whether she needed it or not’. Elizabeth’s self-indulgent cleanliness would have scandalised Isabel of Spain whose piety meant that she only bathed twice in her entire life. She was horrified to learn from Cristóbal Colón that Caribbean ‘savages’ bathed every day and she ordained that her subjects must cease this blasphemous behaviour at once. Thus, poor personal hygiene was not simply a secular fashion in 15th century Spain, it was a religious, and therefore political statement. Muslims used public baths and performed ablutions before prayer (and Jews had the Mikvah), so washing was regarded as suspect; potentially heretical. For Christians, bodily filthiness came to be associated with spiritual cleanliness. Later, frequent bathing would be regarded as evidence that someone was a secret Muslim, as would the refusal to eat pork. Spanish enthusiasm for charcuterie has survived to the present day. Luckily, aversion to bathing has not and Spaniards find the British habit of taking a bath (rather than a shower) rather disgusting. The British habit of showering once a day is regarded as equally disgusting. Continuing along the street, next comes the Calle Zafra, on which stands an evocatively decayed 14th-century Moorish house built around a pool (this

205 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra house, the Casa de Zafra, has recently been turned into a museum). Just beyond this street is the elaborate classical plateresque facade of the Palacio de Castril, a renaissance house with a recently renovated interior displaying a selection of archaeological finds from the prehistoric to the Moorish period.

SACROMONTE The Carrera del Darro comes to an end at the shaded promenade popularly known as the Paseo de los Tristes (‘The Sad People’) on account of the priests who once recited their rosaries in procession to a long defunct cemetery to the east; containing today the bulk of the street's numerous attractive bars, it is overlooked on the other side of the river by the verdant slopes of the Alhambra hill. At its eastern end is the Cuesta del Chapiz, which climbs up to the Casa de Chapiz, a Moorish house. which is now a centre for Moorish Studies. East from here, along the Camino del Sacromonte (from the Casa de Chapiz) you leave the boundaries of the town and reach the gypsy cave district of Sacromonte, much visited by tourists on account of its appalling flamenco shows. Located on the Valparaíso hillside, the Sacromonte neighbourhood is a fine place from which to gaze at the ancient Nasrid fortress. However this neighbourhood to the east of the Albaicín district (see below), spotted with whitewashed homes, agave plants and prickly-pear cactuses, is much more than a lookout point. It is the traditional home of Granada’s gypsies who have resided here in caves since the early 16th century, and for many years it has drawn romantic travellers and bohemian-types searching for the legends and traditions that seem to appear on every corner. One of these legends, regarding the alternative name for Sacromonte — Barranco de los Negros or ‘The Valley of the Blacks’ — fancifully explains the origin of the neighbourhood’s cave dwellings: it is said that after the Christians conquered Granada in 1492, many noble Moors buried their treasures in the hillsides and fled with the idea of returning one day. Their slaves, many of whom were black, discovered the plan and upon being liberated, they headed to Valparaíso intending to ‘liberate’ their masters’ treasures. They dug large holes where nothing was found, but at least they could be used as homes from that point on. According to people who believe this legend, the treasures naturally remain here, hidden somewhere below ground. As the years passed,

206 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra black residents mixed with the nomad Romany ethnic group to eventually become the people that Sacromonte is famous for. The truth is rather more prosaic, of course. There are many cave-villages in Andalucía, and several thousand Spaniards still live in caves (both here in Sacromonte and to an even greater extent in Guadix, near Málaga, where the troglodytic life continues to attract new incomers). Also, most Iberian gypsies are fairly dark skinned anyway, without the help of sub-saharan freed slaves. But whatever their genetic makeup, this is the group behind the famous gypsy zambra, a song and dance performance and precursor of flamenco that brings hundreds of tourists to these caves every night. Originating from an ancient pre-wedding Moorish ritual, zambras were adopted by gypsies, but serious historians of flamenco consider that it is essentially now a lost art form. What is presented to tourists is effectively substandard flamenco, rather than an authentic and unbroken folk tradition. Since the 17th century, in lonely isolation high above the narrow luxuriant valley of the Darro the top of Valparaíso Hill has been home to Sacromonte Abbey, a pilgrimage destination built after the 16th century discovery of the relics of Saint Cecil and other disciples of the apostle Saint James (some legends claim that St James the Less himself celebrated mass in these caves, which rather undermines the legends about the caves being dug in the 16th century). The ‘Plomos’ or Lead Books (lead plaques written in Arabic and Latin describing the martyrdom of those saints) were also ‘found’ here. They were dismissed as heretical forgeries by the Holy Office in the 17th century after long study. This historical-religious complex is made up of the ‘Holy Caves’ (where the Romans supposedly tortured and burnt Saint Cecil), the abbey and a museum containing some of the famous lead books and interesting exhibits such as a copy of The Generalities of Medicine by Averroes, a letter from the conquistador Pizarro to Emperor Carlos V, a painting of the Immaculate Conception by Sánchez Cótan and a world map reputedly by Ptolemy. The first weekend in February, locals trek to Sacromonte Abbey to pay tribute to Saint Cecil, the city’s patron saint. During the Holy Week, this landmark once again fills with people on Holy Wednesday as part of a procession in honour of Cristo de los Gitanos (Christ of the Gypsies), a crucified Jesus Christ carving from 1695 that is kept in the abbey’s church.

207 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra

ALBAICÍN The quiet and attractive heart of the Barrio Albaicín extends west, up the hill, from the Casa de Chapiz, and is an area covered in beautiful villas and gardens, all with superb views towards the Alhambra. Many claim that the etymology of Albaicín is derived from the Arabic for ‘Suburb of the Falconers’, which is romantic but probably untrue, as suggested by the number of other places in Andalucía known by the same name. Whole barrios of falconers seem unlikely! It was probably named after Muslims from the town nowadays called Baeza, near Jaén, settled here after being expelled following the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212. One of the palaces nearby has been converted into the Mirador de Morayma, a famous tourist restaurant (a mirador is a vantage point). The most renowned viewpoint is the terrace in front of the church of San Nicolas, a place to which numerous people come at sunset and flamenco guitarists strum (some like virtuosi, others not). West from here is the 15th-century convent of Santa Isabel la Real, the church of which has a very fine gothic plateresque west portal, and a particularly elaborate mudéjar ceiling. For the Cruces de Mayo celebrations, held in the first week of May, the entire Albaicín hill is alight with candles. South west of here, returning to the lower town, this area (including at its heart the shop-lined Caldereria Nueva, which has now several Moroccan tea- rooms, small restaurants and crafts shops, as well as Granada’s largest mosque nearby) testifies to the recent Muslim influx into the district. This influx, sometimes referred to as ‘the second coming of the Moors’, consists not so much of Moroccans (though there are Moroccans all over Spain in reasonably large numbers) as of European converts to Islam, many of whom originate in the city’s large hippy community. Known generically as ‘Sufis’ (now a catch-all term for non-fundamentalist Muslims, rather than used in any technical sense), these Muslims include many members of the international movement of the Murabitun, which is headed in Granada by the secretive Scot, Sheikh Abd al-Qadir, (formerly Ian Dallas) the one-time Beatles manager who coauthored the screenplay of Yellow Submarine.

208 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra

CENTRO-SAGRARIO Incongruously tucked away behind the Plaza Isabel La Católica and the Gran Vía are the Capilla Real (Chapel Royal) and the Cathedral around which are to be found an extensive pedestrian and shopping district incorporating the 16th century Plaza de Bib-Rambla and the neo-Moorish bazaar known as the Alcaicería (in fact, a 19th century pastiche largely designed to appeal to early tourists). At its southern end the Alcaicería leads into the Calle de los Reyes Católicos, on the other side of which is a narrow alley taking you to the Moorish Corral del Carbón. The busy and unremarkable Calle de los Reyes Católicos connects the Plaza Isabel La Católica with the Puerta Real to the west. Turn left at the latter square and you will reach a wide thoroughfare which splits into the Carrera de La Virgen and the Acera del Darro (‘acera’ means ‘pavement’, indicating that this is the paved-over course of the Darro river). To the left of the former is the 18th century Palacio Bibataubín now housing the Town Council (Diputación), attached to which is the Café Restaurante Chikito patronised by, among others, Lorca and Falla. The Taberna Casa Enrique, on the Acera del Darro, is an old-fashioned establishment well known for its hams, cheeses, and stocks of sweetish Alpujarra wine known as Vino de Costa. The pleasant and narrow Calle de San Jerónimo runs north from the cathedral to the 18th-century Hospital de San Juan de Dios, passing by the shaded and intimate Plaza de la Universidad, which is close to the University’s Botanic Garden (which is pleasant enough as a small urban park, but rather forlorn as a botanic garden). Just to the west of San Juan de Dios is the Monastery of San Jerónimo. Here lies, next to his wife, Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba, who was famously known as the ‘Great Captain’ for his historic military actions during the war that ended the Nasrid dynasty. According to legend, he established a friendship with King Boabdil after taking him prisoner and ultimately convinced the ruler to surrender and hand over the keys to the city. A few blocks east (the other side of the Jardines del Triunfo Park) is the Hospital Real (now the Rectorate of the University) — this, and San Jerónimo, are two of the most majestic renaissance buildings in Granada. If, after the Alhambra and Albaicín (neither to be missed) your time in Granada is limited, I would urge you to prioritise one or more of these buildings over the Cathedral and Chapel Royal. This is not because the latter are uninteresting or not well worth a visit,

209 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings: Between the Centre and the Alhambra but because the buildings mentioned above are less visited by tourists and particularly fine examples of their architectural genre(s). Granada's Charterhouse or Cartuja, containing perhaps the most elaborate and dynamic baroque decoration in the whole of Spain, lies in the western outskirts of the town, a good twenty minutes’ uphill walk from the Hospital Real. As well as its baroque decorations, it has an elegant early 16th-century cloister and a large collection of 17th-century paintings, including many technically arresting (but figuratively clumsy) works by Sanchez Cotán, a master of the still life, who was a monk here. It is one of 23 Carthusian monasteries that once operated in Spain (there are three today). Moverse — Getting around town BUS Granada is a fairly compact city, and considerably smaller than Sevilla. The main difference is that Sevilla is flat (the entire centre is about 7m above sea level), whereas the Albaicín, Sacromonte and Alhambra hills are rather steep. All are pleasant walks (or perhaps hike on the way up, walks on the way down), but if it is very hot (it will probably reach 30°C+ during the day), or if time is short, then buses to all those places leave from the Plaza Nueva or from the Gran Vía near the Cathedral. For buses from the main bus station see p. 194 and for buses to the airport see p. 195. For buses up to the Alhambra see p. 197. To plan other routes then use the Moovit smartphone app which gives real time information and routing. Single journeys are 83¢-87¢ (depending on how much you have charged your ‘CrediBus’ card with, either €5, €10 or €20) or, if paid in cash, €1.40 — this is for any journey of up to 60 minutes, regardless of the number of buses taken and changes made. In Granada, like Sevilla, ‘C’ in front of a bus number refers to ‘centre’ and not ‘circular’ as in London.

Buses to Sacromonte Abbey b C34 from Plaza Nueva (11 mins) Buses to Sacromonte b C31 or b C32 from Plaza Nueva (6 mins) Buses to Albaicín b C31 and b C32 continue through Albaicín Buses to the Cartuja b 8 from Gran Vía 14-Catedral (17 mins)

210 Moverse — Getting around town: Taxi

TAXI There is a taxi rank in the Plaza Nueva. ON FOOT For those who enjoy walking, Granada is ideal. The short distances in the centre of the ‘modern’ city make other forms of transport unnecessary, and the narrow streets of the older parts mean that walking is the optimum way of getting around. TOURS There are a number of ‘free’ walking tours on offer in Granada, though not as many as in Sevilla. This is probably because tourism here is dominated by the Alhambra and many, of not most, visitors see the Alhambra as part of a package or organised tour. Because, like the Judería in Sevilla, Albaicín is such a warren of tiny meandering streets, going on a walking tour can be a good way of ensuring that you do not inadvertently bypass any of the major points of interest. The same goes for Sacromonte, though here is about learning about the colourful myths and legends of the place. The best regarded local company organising such tours are called Walk In Granada (walkingranada.com/en) and they organise three tours. The tour of central Granada is probably not worth it as it is basically just around the Cathedral, but the Albaicín and Sacromonte tours last two and half hours and should be interesting: ALBAICÍN | Plaza Nueva Fountain | Red Umbrella | Mon, Wed, Fri 1800 | 2.5 hours | Online Booking walkingranada.com/en SACROMONTE | Plaza Nueva Fountain | Red Umbrella | Tue, Thu, Sat 1800 | 2.5 hours | Online Booking walkingranada.com/en

211 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Hacer turismo — Sightseeing Hacer turismo — Sightseeing HISTORICAL SIGHTS

Alhambra ALHAMBRA | Paseo del Generalife 1F | 0830-2000 | www.alhambra- patronato.es/ Museo de Bellas Artes ALHAMBRA | Ground Floor — Palacio de Carlos V | Tue-Sun 0900-1500 | EU Nationals Free | www.museosdeandalucia.es/web/museodebellasartesdecordoba Palace of Charles V (Alhambra Museum) ALHAMBRA | Sun, Tue 0830-1430, Wed-Sat 0830-2000 | Free Manuel de Falla House Museum ALHAMBRA | Paseo de los Mártires 11 | Tue-Fri 0900-1430, 1530-1900 | €3 | www.manueldefalla.org/casamuseo.php Iglesia de Santo Domingo REALEJO | Plaza de Santo Domingo 1 | Mon-Fri 1830-2000 Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo The 13th century ‘Royal Room of St Dominic’, is what remains of an Almohad Palace of Moorish Granada, located in the heart of the city, next to what was the Barrio de los Alfareros. It is the only surviving testimony of an ‘almunia real’ (royal summer residence) within the ancient Nasrid city. REALEJO | Plaza de los Campos 6 | Mon-Sun 1000-1400, 1700-2100 | FREE Casa de los Tiros The Casa de los Tiros Museum was built between 1530 and 1540, and is similar to other palaces of Granada at the time. It is named after the cannon (tiro means ‘shot’) that appear between its battlements. It formed part of the wall of

212 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical sights the neighbourhood of the Alfareros, hence its fortress-like appearance as a military fortress. The polychrome coffered ceiling of the Cuadra Dorada or main hall stands out, as well as the plateresque doors. REALEJO | Calle Pavaneras 19 | Tue-Sat 1000-2030 | EU Nationals FREE Los Bañuelos (Moorish Baths) Though fascinating and, unlike the ‘Granada Hammam’ a genuine Arab bathhouse (once part of the complex of the ‘Mosque of the Walnut’), you might balk at the entrance price. However, the ticket will allow you to visit (on the same day) the Bañuelos and three more monuments: the Dar al-Horra Palace, the Casa Horno de Oro and the Corral del Carbón. This joint ticket costs only 5 euros. RÍO DARRO | Carrera del Darro 31 | Mon-Sun 1000-1700 | €5 Dar al-Horra Palace A Nazari palace located in the Albaicín neighbourhood and built in the fourteenth century on a former zirí palace of the eleventh century, which was the first residence of the founder of the Nasrid dynasty, Muhammad I. It is located on top of what was the al-Qashba Cadima, or Old Fortress, the initial nucleus of the Muslim Granada. Its Arabic name means ‘House of the Lady’ for at the time of the reconquista, Aixa, queen and mother of Boabdil lived here. ALBAICÍN | Callejón de las Monjas | Mon-Sun 10am–5pm | Combined ticket (see above) Casa Horno de Oro The Casa Horno de Oro (‘Golden Oven House’) is located near the River Darro, a barrio which was known as Axares (‘Health’ or ‘Delight’) — so called in the Muslim period due to its good climatic conditions and the beauty of its houses. Built at the end of the 15th century, the transformations of the 16th century made it an interesting example of a Moorish house that integrates Islamic and Castilian elements. The simplicity of its facade hides a striking architectural harmony that it hides inside. A rectangular patio with pool is centre the building. The porticoed gallery was constructed in the Christian era.

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RÍO DARRO | Calle Horno del Oro 14 | Mon-Sun 10am–5pm | Combined ticket (see above) Corral del Carbón The Corral del Carbón or Correo de los Moros is a 14th-century Nasrid ‘alhóndiga’ preserved in its entirety in the Iberian peninsula. It was built before 1336, and its original name was Al-Funduq al-Gidida or ‘New Alhóndiga’. Located next to the silk market or Alcaicería, it served as inn for merchants in transit, and as a warehouse and wholesale market. SAGRARIO | Calle Mariana Pineda | 0900-1900 | Combined ticket (see above) Casa de Zafra This Hispanic-Moorish house, like others in the city, has survived because it was joined to a religious building, in this case to the convent of Santa Catalina de Zafra (see below). Its layout is like that of a typical residential house with a pool in the central courtyard, a double portico and main rooms on the two shorter sides. The changes the house has undergone reflect the urban evolution of the Albaicín district in the early 15th century, but important examples of carved ceilings and Moorish decorative painting that are still well preserved. It now houses the ‘Centro de Interpretación’ of the Albaicín district. RÍO DARRO | Calle Portería Concepción 8 | Mon-Sun 0900-1430 | €3 Santa Catalina de Zafra A monastery of Dominican nuns (‘monjas’ in Spanish). The church may be visited. RÍO DARRO | Carrera del Darro 39 | Mon-Sun 1630-1830 | €1 donation suggested Palacio de Castril Takes its name from the Manor of Castril granted by the Catholic Monarchs to their Secretary, Hernando de Zafra. It was built in 1539 by his grandson. It now houses the Archaeological Museum of Granada over two of its floors, numbering seven rooms covering several archaeological periods, from the Palaeolithic to the Roman and Arab periods

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RÍO DARRO | Carrera del Darro 41-43 | Tue-Sat 0900-2100 | EU Nationals FREE Sacromonte Abbey SACROMONTE | Mon-Sun 1030-1730 | €5 guided tour | Booking online sacromonteabbey.com/ Capilla Real (Chapel Royal) The final resting place of Fernando and Isabel, this chapel is not part of the cathedral and is entered separately. SAGRARIO | Calle Oficios | Mon-Sat 1015-1830 (Daily Mass 0930) | €5 (inc. audioguide) Cathedral SAGRARIO | Plaza de las Pasiegas | Mon-Sun 1000-1830 (Daily Mass 0900) | €5 (inc. audioguide) Hospital de San Juan de Dios Now a private hospital run by the Order of St John of God, but the richly decorated baroque chapel can be visited. SAGRARIO | Calle San Juan de Dios 19 | Mon-Sun 1000-1300, 1600-1900 | €4 (a donation to the work of the Order, inc. audioguide) Monastery of San Jerónimo The Royal Monastery of St. Jerome is a former Hieronymite monastery in the Renaissance style. The church, famous for its architecture, was the first in the world consecrated to the Immaculate Conception of Mary. It was founded by the Catholic Monarchs in Santa Fe outside the city of Granada before the last siege of the of last stage of the Reconquista. The construction of the current buildings in Granada began in 1504, and the principal architect and sculptor was Diego de Siloé. Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba, known as the Gran Capitán (‘Great Captain’), is buried at the crossing, along with his wife, Doña Maria de Manrique. The monastery was sacked by the French during the Peninsular War, the Hieronymites, expelled and the monastery reduced to a near-ruin. The State

215 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing: Historical sights undertook a restoration of the building in 1916–1920, hiring the architect Fernando Wihelmi for the job. The slender tower of the church had been demolished by the French, who used the rubble to build the bridge known as the Puente Verde, which crosses the River Genil, linking the Paseo de la Bomba to the Avenida de Cervantes. Only in the 1980s was the tower re-erected; the project was completed in 1989. SAGRARIO | Calle Rector López Argueta 9 | Mon-Sun 1000-1330, 1600-1930 | 4€ Hospital Real Built during the reign of the Catholic Monarchs to discharge their duty to perform corporal works of mercy, (primarily to shelter the poor and to assist the sick and the orphans), it is now the Rectorate of the University SAGRARIO | Cuesta del Hospicio | Mon-Fri 0830-2130 | Free Cartuja (Charterhouse) ALBAICÍN (North) | Paseo de la Cartuja | Mon-Sun 1000-2000 | €5

Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer Remember that in Granada all bars hand out a free tapa with every drink ordered. The only exception to this rule are establishments that are primarily restaurants but which have a small bar area. Here the tapas will be understandably small. But generally, if you are willing to drink a few small beers (a caña is around 250ml, a tubo is around 330ml), or glasses of wine then you will probably be quite satisfied with tapas that comes with them. If you are still a little peckish then you can always order another tapa or ración to top up. Remember that if you are starving between 1600 and 1900 most kitchens will be closed, so if you order tapas they will have been left over from lunch. If you need to fill a hole at this time, a better bet is a cafe serving sandwiches (montaditos or bocadillos) or a branch of 100 Montaditos (the city centre branch is at Calle Acera del Darro 24).

216 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer: Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer

Remember too that a couple of the following can be booked online — either search for the restaurant on the ‘TheFork’ website or app, or else just do a Google search and the link to book should show in the results. RESTAURANTS

Parador The restaurant of the Parador has a good reputation if you are after a relatively luxurious meal in a stunning setting (especially if you can sit on the terrace). It is inside the Alhambra precincts so you will need to show your reservation email on your phone to be given access. But unless dining in such a setting especially appeals, then fear not — there are many places as good, or better, in the city at the bottom of the hill. But if it might fit in with your plans to visit, the Parador serves a well-priced menú del día for €24. ALHAMBRA | Calle Real de la Alhambra | Lunch: 1300-1600, Dinner 2000- 2300 | Mains €20 | Booking essential | www.thefork.com Negro Cárbon One such is this restaurant, very near your hotel. Its prices are similar to the Parador, and the quality is excellent. It specialises in grilled fish and meat dishes. RÍO DARRO | Puente Cabrera 9 | 1300–1630, 1900–2330 | Mains €20 | Online booking available at www.thefork.com Asador Contrapunto A beautiful, modern restaurant serving well-executed Spanish dishes from a well-planned menu. SAGRARIO | Gran Vía de Colón 20 | 1300-1600, 2000-2300 | Mains €16 | Online booking available at www.asadorcontrapunto.com/en/ and www.thefork.com

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La Cuchara de Carmela A traditional restaurant founded in 1955, but recently updated with modern twists in the kitchen too. Just the other side of the bridge across the River Genil. GENIL | Paseo de los Basilios 1 | 1200-0000 | Mains €18 | Booking online available http://www.lacucharadecarmela.com El Mercader I strongly recommend you consider giving El Mercader (‘the merchant’) a try. The food is wonderful — traditionally Spanish with a touch of modern panache. For the quality, it is excellent value. There is a perceptible Japanese flavour to some of the fish dishes, but that is universal in Spain these days — it is not regarded as ‘fusion’. One could hardly expect one fish-obsessed cuisine not to be influenced by the other fish-obsessed cuisine. It is just a few metres’ north of the Plaza Nueva, but they only accept booking by telephone (ask the hotel to make a reservation for you) or in person (call in as you pass). SAGRARIO | Calle Imprenta 2 | Mon-Tue Closed; Wed 1930-2300; Thu-Sat 1330- 1530, 2000-2300 | Mains €14 Restaurante Albahaca The Albahaca (‘basil’) is a decent, traditional restaurant at any time, but I include it here because they do a great menú del día for €12.50, Tuesday to Friday. REALEJO | Plaza Campillo Bajo 5 | 1330-1530, 2030-2230 | Menú €12.50 | www.restaurantealbahaca.es Damsqueros In the Realejo district, this one makes the cut on account of their well balanced and delicious tasting menu (‘Menu Degustación Semanal’) which changes weekly to reflect seasonal produce. REALEJO | Calle Damasqueros 3 | 2030-2230 | 6 Course Tasting Menu €39.50; with wine pairings €59 | Online bookings available www.thefork.com

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Casa Colón Strictly speaking, Casa Colón is probably a tapas bar, but the quality of the tapas makes it more of a gourmet experience than you average bar. Rather too much nonsense with serving food on slates rather than plates for my liking, but that’s Spain for you. Spain might well be the ahead of the curve in many ways, culinarily speaking, but it others it lags a good ten years behind (balsamic glaze was de rigueur until a couple of years ago). Casa Colón is also in a lovely spot — down by the River Genil, with a terrace. GENIL| Calle Ribera del Genil 2 | 1300-0000 La Platea (Centro) This restaurant is a charming place (but often busy so the service can be slow), on a lovely, elegant street (especially after dark), right in the centre. It is in the middle of a row of half a dozen similar restaurants, all of which are good quality, so have a look at the menus and see what appeals. SAGRARIO | Calle Ángel Ganivet 6 | 1200-1700, 2000-0000 | Mains €15-€20 | Booking online available www.thefork.com BARS There are three places where bars (especially tapas bars) are concentrated in Granada. The first is around the Cathedral, north of the Bib-Rambla (shaded pink on the companion Google Map). There are some great places here, but it’s comparatively expensive. The second is the few streets of the corner of the Plaza Nueva (shaded green on the Google Map) — this is home to some of Granada’s very best bars. The third is the famous Calle Navas (shaded blue on the Google Map). This is the tapas street par excellence. As a matter of stubborn course, I have always tended to ignore any establishment that touts for business (waiters brandishing menus in the street) — any place that isn not full between 2 and 4, or after 9 is probably not the best in the street. But on my last visit to Granada, because I was not alone, I broke this rule after making it clear that we only wanted a drink (I think it was Bar Genil). We were then served — as a complimentary tapa — prawns so enormous that they were halfway to being lobsters (it took considerable suction to slurp the brains out of the head). They were absolutely delicious. In other words, places in these areas do not survive long if they are below-par but, as always avoid places that are empty.

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There is probably a reason! Also, the next bar is unlikely to more than 20 metres away. All the bars listed below serve tapas (everywhere in Granada does) but those with especially good tapas are indicated with a knife and fork: 

Realejo Bar Restaurant Ocaña-El Sota | Plaza Realejo 1 Bar Altramuces | Campo de Principe |  La Botilleria | Calle Varela 10 |  Taberna Malvasia | Calle Rosario 10 |  Sagrario

PLAZA NUEVA Bodegas Castañeda | Calle de Almireceros 1 Los Manueles | Calle Reyes Católicos 61 & Calle Monjas del Carmen 1 |  Casa Julio | Calle Hermosa 5 Los Diamantes | Plaza Nueva 13 |  | Fabulous, but always packed Bar el Leon | Calle Pan 1

CATHEDRAL Bar Soria | Calle Laurel de las Tablas, 3 Bar Provincias | Calle Provincias 4 Masquevinos | Tundidores 10 | Masquevinos Bar Poë | Calle Verónica de la Magdelena 40 | 

CALLE NAVAS Too many bars along this narrow street to list, but special mention must go to: Los Diamantes | Calle Navas 26 |  | Fabulous, but always packed

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Albaicín Casa Torcuato | Calle Pagés 31 Bar los Mascarones | Calle Pagés 20 Bar Aliatar ‘Los Caracoles’ | Plaza Aliatar 4 | NB ‘Caracoles’ are snails Reina Monica | Calle Panaderos 20 |  El Horno de Paquito | Calle San Buenaventura (Plaza Aliatar) |  Bar Aixa, Plaza Larga 5 | 

SUPERMARKETS There is a mini-market in the Plaza Nueva. The largest big supermarkets are in the basement of El Corte Inglés, down towards the river (entrances on Acera del Darro and Carrera de la Virgen) and, slightly closer to the river, on Acera del Darro 98, a branch of Mercadona, which is an excellent and cheap supermarket. If you want to take home some Spanish ham (without doubt the best cured ham in the world) then buy vacuum packs from either of these places. Ham will survive out of the fridge for a long time — days, rather than hours — it is already at least two years old as it is. Para comprar — Shopping LOCAL SPECIALITIES Two local products are ceramics (hand painted, usually in green and blue), and rugs known as jarapas. Both art forms are delightful, but while they look fabulous in a Spanish home, they can be a little too… colourful, let us say, for British homes. Food is a much better option, either as a gift or for one’s own personal supply. Dried fruit (raisins, sultanas, figs, dates, etc.) and nuts (almonds, walnuts, pine nuts) are extremely high quality and much cheaper than in the UK. The best place to buy some is:

Mercado San Agustín Sagrario | Plaza de San Agustín | 0900-1500

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Cured (hard) cheese and ham (jamón) are also good things to take home with you. You can buy these items quite cheaply (though the quality is good) from Mercadona (see p. 221), and also from El Corte Inglés (ibid.). But another place to shop for food items is Comestibles Cristóbal just north of the Bib- Rambla. The friendly owners, Juan Carlos and Alex, will be pleased to advise you. Comestibles Cristóbal SAGRARIO | Plaza Pescadería 17 | 0800-1500, 1700-2200 “Ave María Purísima” … “sin pecado concebida” A unique gift, however, would be confectionary or biscuits made by nuns. It is also a way of supporting the apostolate of prayer of these religious orders. The terminology is confusing, but it is all delicious stuff. Typically, ordinary biscuits made by nuns, though delicious, tend to be quite ‘short’ and somewhat powdery, largely because they are made with lard. This was a deliberate move following the reconquista — the best way to show that you were a Christian and not a secret Muslim, was to consume pork products openly. Monastic products may be purchased from the following convents: Monasterio del Santísimo Corpus Christi SAGRARIO | Calle Gracia 7 (next to the Magdalena Church) | Mon-Sun 1000- 1300, 1600-1830

Monasterio de San José de Carmelitas Descalzas SAGRARIO | Plaza de las Descalzas | Mon-Sun 1030-1330, 1730-1930 Monasterio de la Encarnación SAGRARIO | Plaza de la Encarnación | 0930-1245, 1700-1845 (entrance to Plaza de la Encarnación) Monasterio de Santo Ángel Custodio SAGRARIO | Calle San Antón 40 | Mon-Sat 0900-1400, 1600-2000

Convento de la Concepción The closest to your hotel!

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RÍO DARRO | Placeta de la Concepción 2 | 1000-1300, 1600-1900 | NB the shop is in the museum Monasterio de San Jerónimo The nuns here also make mermeladas (jams) SAGRARIO | Rector López Argüeta Street 9 | 1000-1330, 1500-1830 FIN And there we have it. I hope you have/are having/have had a lovely time, and that this little guide has been some use to you.

Table of Contents Caveat Lector...... 1 Checklist...... 2 Advanced Booking Advised:...... 2 When you arrive...... 2 Smartphone Links...... 2 Moovit...... 2 Companion Online Google Map...... 3 Web Links...... 3 Google Maps...... 4 Language and Spelling...... 4 Places...... 5 Transliteration...... 5 Pronunciation...... 6 Distincíon, Seseo, Ceceo...... 7 Accents...... 8 Simplified Pronunciation Key...... 9 Telling the Time...... 12 ¡Bienvenidos a Andalucía!...... 14 Los Reyes Católicos...... 14 Food and Drink...... 15

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Ambiente...... 17 Duende...... 19 Paseo...... 22 Spain Under Islamic Rule...... 23 Safety...... 28 Comida y bebida — Food and Drink...... 33 Bares, Asadores, Cafeterías, Restaurantes, etc...... 33 Restaurantes...... 33 Asador...... 33 Mesón...... 33 Parrilla...... 34 Marisquería...... 34 Taberna...... 34 Pub...... 34 Cafetería/Café...... 34 Bar...... 35 Bodega/Vinoteca...... 36 Cervecería...... 36 Bar de Copas...... 36 Club...... 36 Tips for using tripadvisor and other review websites...... 37 Tapas, Raciones and Los Menús del Día...... 38 Los Sandwiches...... 39 El Menú del Día...... 40 Cómo Comer (How to eat)...... 40 100 Montaditos...... 42 Especialidades...... 43 Etiquette...... 43 Cutlery...... 43 Bread...... 44 Napkins...... 44 ¡Que Aproveche!...... 45 Sobremesa — At the Table...... 45

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The Embarrassment...... 46 Mixed Water...... 46 Tipping...... 46 Local Specialities...... 47 Andaluz Specialities...... 50 Understanding cartas...... 54 Entrantes, Sopas y Cocidos (Starters, Soups And Stews).....54 Verduras (Vegetables)...... 55 Carnes (Meat)...... 56 Pescados (Fish)...... 56 Postres y Dulces (Puddings And Sweets)...... 57 Breakfasts and Mealtimes...... 58 Drinks...... 61 Café...... 61 Cerveza...... 62 Agua...... 63 Wine...... 63 History...... 63 Varieties and Regions...... 69 Sherry...... 69 Condado de Huelva...... 70 Montilla-Moriles...... 71 Tinto, Blanco, Rosado...... 71 DOP Regions...... 71 Vinos de la Tierra Regions...... 72 Other Drinks...... 75 Brandy...... 75 Vermú...... 80 El Gin-Tonic...... 81 Licores y Digestivos...... 83 Lo básico — Background information...... 85 Directory...... 86 British Consulate (Malaga)...... 86

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Spanish Police Tourist Helpline...... 86 Pharmacy (24 hours)...... 86 Emergency Number...... 86 Health Emergency Number...... 86 Taxis...... 86 Tourist Information...... 86 ¿Cómo llegar? — Arriving...... 87 By Air...... 87 Getting to Santa Justa Railway Station...... 88 Getting to the Bus Station...... 88 Introduction...... 89 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings...... 92 The Outer Barrios...... 92 Macarena...... 92 Nervión...... 92 El Porvenir...... 93 Los Remedios...... 93 Triana...... 93 Cartuja...... 93 Guadalquivir...... 95 The Barrios of El Centro...... 97 Santa Cruz...... 97 El Arenal...... 101 Other Barrios...... 103 Moverse — Getting around town...... 105 Metro...... 105 Tram...... 105 Bus...... 105 Tarjeta Multiviaje...... 106 Taxi...... 106 Bicycle...... 107 Sevici...... 107 Alternatives to Sevici...... 109

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Oh My Bikes!...... 109 Bike Center Sevilla...... 109 Rent A Bike Sevilla...... 109 On Foot...... 110 We Are Sevilla...... 110 Heart of Sevilla...... 111 Sevilla Free Tours...... 111 Other Free Tours...... 111 Other options...... 111 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing...... 112 A Walk around Sevilla...... 112 Historical and Cult/ural Sites...... 122 Feria de Abril...... 122 Reales Alcazares...... 124 Catedral de Santa María de la Sede...... 125 Iglesia del Salvador...... 127 Torre de los Perdigones...... 128 Metropol Parasol (‘Las Setas’)...... 129 Plaza España...... 130 Basílica de la Macarena...... 130 Basilica de Jesús del Gran Poder...... 134 Hospital de la Caridad...... 135 Casa de Pilatos...... 136 Casa Palacio de Las Dueñas...... 137 Streets and Squares...... 139 Museums and galleries...... 140 Museo de Bellas Artes...... 140 Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares...... 141 Museo Arqueológico...... 141 Ceramics Centre Triana...... 142 Churches...... 143 Holy Week (Semana Santa)...... 143 Sunday Masses...... 146

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Churches in Sevilla...... 148 San Lorenzo...... 150 San Marcos...... 150 Santa María la Blanca...... 150 Real Iglesia de Señora Santa Ana...... 150 San Luis de los Franceses...... 150 Omnium Sanctorum...... 151 Santa María Magdalena...... 151 Santa Cruz...... 151 Anunciación...... 151 Parks and gardens...... 152 Jardines de Murillo...... 152 Parque María Luisa...... 152 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer...... 154 Markets...... 155 Mercado Lonja del Barranco...... 155 Mercado de Triana...... 155 Mercado de la Encarnación...... 156 Mercado de la Feria...... 156 Gourmet Experience Duque...... 156 RESTAURANTS...... 157 Taberna del Alabardero...... 157 Vineria San Telmo...... 157 Entre Dos Hermandades...... 158 Meson Don Raimundo...... 158 Tradevo Centro...... 158 La Azotea...... 159 La Malvaloca...... 159 Bar Kiko...... 159 Las Columnas...... 160 Espacio Eslava...... 160 Bars...... 161 Bar Europa...... 161

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El Rinconcillo...... 161 Restaurante Taberna Miami...... 162 Bar Estrella Tapas...... 162 Bodeguita Casablanca...... 162 Placentines...... 162 Bodeguita Antonio Romero Gamazo...... 163 Bodeguita Romero...... 163 Bodegas Díaz Salazar...... 163 Casa Morales...... 163 Los Coloniales...... 163 Patio San Eloy...... 164 Bar Alfalfa...... 164 Bar Pelayo...... 164 Bar El Baratillo...... 165 Rooftop Bars...... 165 Cafés...... 165 Pastelería y Confitería La Campana...... 166 La Crème de La Crème pastelería...... 166 Mamá Inés...... 166 Dulcería Manu Jara...... 166 Supermarkets...... 166 Para comprar — Shopping...... 167 Street Markets...... 167 Art Market...... 167 Philately and Numismatics...... 167 Paseo del Arte...... 167 Organic Market and ‘Souk of Books’...... 168 El Gran Soho...... 168 Local specialities...... 168 Convento de Santa Paula...... 169 Córdoba...... 170 Shopping in Córdoba...... 173 A Day in Córdoba...... 173

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Fiesta de los Patios 2019...... 173 Walking from Córdoba Railway Station (RENFE)...... 175 Almanzor...... 177 Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba...... 177 History...... 178 Outside the Mezquita...... 180 After the Mezquita...... 180 Puente Romano...... 180 Cafés...... 181 Alcázar...... 182 South West from the Mezquita...... 182 San Basilio...... 182 Averroes Statue...... 183 Maimonides and The Zoco...... 183 Capilla Mudéjar: Iglesia de San Bartolomé...... 184 East of the Mezquita...... 185 Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo...... 186 Plaza del Potro...... 186 Places to Eat...... 187 Taberna Plateros...... 187 Taberna Los Palcos...... 187 La Taberna del Río...... 187 Canadian Rio...... 187 Restaurante La Boca...... 188 After Lunch...... 188 Torre De Calahorra...... 188 Casa-Museo del Guadamecí Omeya...... 188 North of the Plaza del Potro...... 189 Palacio de los Marqueses de Viana...... 190 GRANADA...... 192 Lo básico — Background information...... 192 Directory...... 192 British Consulate (Malaga)...... 192

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Spanish Police Tourist Helpline...... 192 Pharmacy (24 hours)...... 193 Emergency Number...... 193 Health Emergency Number...... 193 Taxis...... 193 Tourist Information...... 193 ¿Cómo llegar? — Arriving...... 193 Getting to the Airport...... 194 ¿Donde? — Finding your bearings...... 195 Between the Centre and the Alhambra...... 195 Moverse — Getting around town...... 209 Bus...... 209 Taxi...... 210 On Foot...... 210 Tours...... 210 Hacer turismo — Sightseeing...... 211 Historical sights...... 211 Alhambra...... 211 Museo de Bellas Artes...... 211 Palace of Charles V (Alhambra Museum)...... 211 Manuel de Falla House Museum...... 211 Iglesia de Santo Domingo...... 211 Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo...... 211 Casa de los Tiros...... 211 Los Bañuelos (Moorish Baths)...... 212 Dar al-Horra Palace...... 212 Casa Horno de Oro...... 212 Corral del Carbón...... 213 Casa de Zafra...... 213 Santa Catalina de Zafra...... 213 Palacio de Castril...... 213 Sacromonte Abbey...... 214 Capilla Real (Chapel Royal)...... 214

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Cathedral...... 214 Hospital de San Juan de Dios...... 214 Monastery of San Jerónimo...... 214 Hospital Real...... 215 Cartuja (Charterhouse)...... 215 Eating and Drinking — Gazetteer...... 215 Restaurants...... 216 Parador...... 216 Negro Cárbon...... 216 Asador Contrapunto...... 216 La Cuchara de Carmela...... 217 El Mercader...... 217 Restaurante Albahaca...... 217 Damsqueros...... 217 Casa Colón...... 218 La Platea (Centro)...... 218 Bars...... 218 Realejo...... 219 Sagrario...... 219 Albaicín...... 220 Supermarkets...... 220 Para comprar — Shopping...... 220 Local specialities...... 220 Mercado San Agustín...... 220 Comestibles Cristóbal...... 221 “Ave María Purísima” … “sin pecado concebida”...... 221 Monasterio del Santísimo Corpus Christi...... 221 Monasterio de San José de Carmelitas Descalzas...... 221 Monasterio de la Encarnación...... 221 Monasterio de Santo Ángel Custodio...... 221 Convento de la Concepción...... 221 Monasterio de San Jerónimo...... 222 FIN...... 222

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