& THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS 191 Kjeåsen Farm (Eidfjord) Stalheim Hotel (1087m) Kjeragbolten (604m) (Bergen) HIGHEST ELEVATION : FOLGEFONN (1654M) FOLGEFONN (1654M) : HIGHEST ELEVATION „ Old Old ( p195 ) in - Bryggen Hardangerfjord ( p229 ) or ( p213 ) ( p216 ), high above Eidfjord ( p222 ) Preikestolen ( p231 ) overlooking ) overlooking p231 ( Stalheim Hotel bolten ) from tranquil p215 ( particularly the historic timber houses of Stavanger the Kjeåsen Farm Bergen, a Unesco World Heritage site a Unesco World Heritage site Bergen, Stroll through the historic to Climb Relax on a slow boat up Amble through cosmopolitan Stavanger, view in at Wake up to the best hotel Climb up (or through) the mountain to POPULATION: 840,000 840,000 POPULATION:

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „ „ „ „ „ „

Bergen is one of the world’s most beautiful cities, laid out across harbours and hillsides. is one of the world’s most beautiful cities, laid out across harbours and hillsides. Bergen and Stavanger serve to the fjords you always as gateways both Bergen better, Even image, whether high on To the south, Lysefjord might just be Norway’s most recognisable „ Bergen & the Bergen & the Fjords Southwestern Two beautiful, vibrant cities and some of Norway’s most scenic fjord country make for a wonderful not) and looking short if you’re for the combination. If you’re on time (and even to visit. this could just be the region best that Norway has to offer, especially in the quayside Bryggen district. But this It’s also rich in history and architecture, restaurants great is a city that anything but stuck in the past with dynamic cultural life, but its old for architecture, To the south, Stavanger may not match Bergen and nightlife. vibe make museums and feel-good quarter, it a must-see. terrific be- simply magnificent. Villages Hardangerfjord quite and its tributaries are of. dreamed farms in little Eidfjord where find their most stunning manifestation cliffs neath precipitous interest provide centre to high ledges, dizzying waterfallsclinging and Norway’s best nature to add the undeniable beauty. Ulvik, Utne and Kinsarvik perfect also provide vantage points onto this perfect world, while Stalheim allows you to look deep into the valley from you to do likewise,its eyrie-like should be landscapes inspire perch. If the plunging a range of high-energy, high-altitude thrills await. high on your list, where a frisson of places where are These or balancing atop Kjeragbolten. Rock (Preikestolen) Pulpit at Norway’s extraordinary beauty. you’ll stand, amazed, draws you to the edge, where fear www.lonelyplanet.com

© Lonely Planet Publications 190 BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS pop 244,620 192 (with a25%increase invisitors inthelast getsBergen a littleoverwhelmed byvisitors In summer A word of warning, however: rewards asmuch timeasyou cangive it. dynamic culturallife amply and Bergen in great friendlylocals anda museums, offer stunningviewsfromabove. Throw dreds of timber-clad whilecablecars houses, climbsthehillsideswith hun- piece, Bergen and buzzingVågen harbouras itscentre- the UnescoWorld Heritage–listed Bryggen isabeautiful,charmingBergen city.With fjords, hillsandseven Surrounded byseven BERGEN Karmły Skudeneshavn Sogn Sotra Store

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Duringthe17thand18th and Norway’smostpopulouscity with nonetheless thetradinghubof Scandinavia Bremen retain city-state status). still calledHanseatic citiesand Hamburg and Hamburg,(although Bremen andLübeckare tion) ensured theHanseatic decline, League’s (which wipedout70%of popula- Bergen’s disputes and, especially,theBlackDeath and Englishshipping companies,internal By the15thcentury,competitionfromDutch marry orhave familieswithlocalNorwegians. chants whoweren’t permitted tomixwith, communityof mer-by atight-knit German products. other ported grainandexported driedfish,among residentmostly German traders whoim- major headquarters abroad, withupto2000 forming Bryggen intooneof theleague’sfour their first here office around1360,trans- traders indroves.League’s Theyestablished harbour of Bryggen drew theHanseatic powerful economicentity;thesheltered ber citiesandwasnorthernEurope’smost At itszenith,theleaguehadover 150mem- Hanseatic withitscentre inLübeck. League into tradingleagues,mostsignificantlythe ofthe citystates alliedthemselves Germany city.Bythe13thcentury,most important andeasilythecountry’swas Norway’scapital During the12thand13thcenturies, Bergen be aproblem soalways book ahead. five years) andfindingaccommodationcan HISTORY By the early 17th century Bergen wasBy theearly17thcenturyBergen For over 400years, Bryggen wasdominated lonelyplanet.com the road at No7. and English-languagebooks. There’s anotherbranchacross oftravel hrsrest-of-year) Great selection shorter May-Sep, h longer. Inthemeantime,mosthotels and 2008 although most localsexpectittotake thecitybyendofaccess throughout hasplanstohaveBergen universal wireless Internet Access Police Ambulance Emergencies 8; Torgalmenningen Norli Bookshops walk southeastfromthe ferry terminals. a blockapartonStrømgaten, a10-minute restaurants. lie The bus andtrainstations lonelyplanet.com centre. One central bank that’sgood for banks (most have ATMs) dotted aroundthe but nocommission) oratanyof themany (formuchtourist office lessthan bankrates You can change moneyat thepostoffice, Money Pharmacy Clinic Medical Legevakten Medical Services Nkr40. at Lockers start atthetrainandbusstations Left Luggage Jarlens Vaskoteque Laundry Zoex Cyberhouse Library Bergen Accezzo some caféshave wireless access. 00; Vestre Strømkaien 19; 00; Vestre Strømkaien Nkr20/40/70; hr Nkr70; h (Nkr110)takes Sat) Full service two hours. 6pm Mon,Tue 10am-8pm Wed&Thu,10am-3pm &Fri, Øvregaten 17;wash/detergent/dryNkr55/5/10; 10am-3pm Sat)Free, time-limited access. gaten 6; hrs shorter rest-of-year) INFORMATION 9am-11pm) 8am-11pm Mon-Sat,10am-11pm Sun) (Map (Map p196 ; KongOscarsgate13;per15/30/60mins Mp p196; (Map ( % h (Map (Map p196 Torgalmenningen6;per ; Galleriet, h (Map (Map p196 ; 112) 10am-6pm Mon-Thu, 10am-4.30pmFri, (Map (Map p196 ; Hollendergaten9;perhrNkr60; h ( 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat Jun-Sep, 9am-6pmSatJun-Sep, 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, % (Map (Map p196 ; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat) % 113) BERGEN••Information h 55 214291;www.norli.no; (Map (Map p196 ; % 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, h 55 218384;busstation; 24hr) Handles emergencies. % (Map (Map p196 ; 55 568500;Strøm- % 55 3204;Lille % 55 5687 h 10am- mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hrs mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter rest-of-year) Småstrandgaten; 30; www.bergen-turlag.no; Tverrgaten 4; their massive liners’. Many cruise localshope pictures, buy aplastictrollandthenleave on sengers fromallover theworldcometotake pas- timate city;asonelocaltold us, ‘cruise change theatmosphere of in- thisotherwise alone) inparticularcan,without warning, flux of passengers (210,000in2006 cruise can bealittleoverwhelming. Thesuddenin- accessory. essential 85 consecutive days of rain. Abrollyisan national record (heldbytheOslo region) with of theyear. In2006thecityalmostbroke the can reliably expectrainonatleast275days as it’soneof thewettest citiesinNorway –you joke (including formanypeoplefromBergen) watchcity, keep on aclose your belongings. market andBryggen areas so,asinanytourist pockets are knowntooperate aroundthefish isgenerally Bergen asafeAlthough city, pick- DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Travel Kilroy Travel Agencies office Tourist Bergen Turlag DNToffice Tourist Information postoffice Main Post Korskirkeallmenning) Nedre changing moneyis the quiet lanes climbing the hillbehind Bryggen, some of themostpicturesque are lined with timber-clad apartfrom houses; has lotsofBergen quaint cobblestone streets ships willreduce thetraffic a little. that anewlocal government oncruise tax 3pm Sat)Specialisesinstudent tickets. .com; Vaskerelven 16; distributes thefree andexcellent distributes office of thebestandbusiestincountry,Bergen’stourist One 9am-4pmMon-SatOct-Apr) &Sep, Aug, 9am-8pmMay bergen.com; Vågsallmenningen1; wsen Norway. western andhutaccommodationthroughout information onhiking and 10am-6pmThu,10am-2pmSat)Maps Mon-Wed &Fri, SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Bergen’s weatherissomething ofBergen’s anational The sheer numbers ofThe sheer visitors insummer (Map (Map p196 ; (Map (Map p196 ; h (Map (Map p196 ; XhibitionShoppingCentre, 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, h Sparebanken Vest Sparebanken 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am- 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, . % % (Map (Map p196 ; 55 2000;www.visit 02633; www.kilroytravels Bergen Guide h 8.30am-10pm Jun- h % booklet. 10am-4pm 55 3222

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Lysekloster Kalandsvatnet Myrdalsvatnet Mt Ulriken (642m) Tarlebłvatnet Grłnetua Grimevatnet (642m) Vindalsvatnet Camping Bratland lonelyplanet.com Haugavarden (673m) 39 Słylevatnet Haukeland Hauglandsvatnet Haukelandsvatnet Solbakkefjellet 39 Hetleflotvatnet Camping (457m) Søfteland Lone To Voss 580 of Bergen’s great pleasures. inBryggen andlosingyourself isone intact an intimate waterfront communityremains metandate.employees Thatatmosphere of fire, thebuildingpattern although dates back 13,000 sqmetres and date fromafter the1702 someclaimtherethough are now61)cover current 58buildings(25%of theoriginal,al- further inlandthanwhere itnowlies.The tions suggest thatthequaywasonce140m work-in-progress andarchaeological excava- gabled frontsfacing the wharf. constructionrunbackfromrough-plank or woodenfoundationsandreconstructed parallel rowsof buildingswithstacked-stone for northernEurope(see p192 ), thelong Harbour. Onceamajor commercialcentre ter runsalongtheeastern shore of Vågen oldestandmostenchantingBergen’s quar- Sandviken (behind ). to Kafeas inNordnes(close Kippers) and aswellthe Fløibanenfunicularstation, lonelyplanet.com bedroom; the apprentices’ quarters where quarters, private liquorcabinet andsummer include themanager’s office,Highlights tices, and thelifestyles of themanagement. of Hanseatic merchant sailors andappren- the austere livingand workingconditions reveals 1704, itstarkly thecontrastbetween buildingfrom inarough-timber Housed dow ontotheworld of Hanseatic traders. Tue-Sat, 11am-4pmSun rest-of-year) Schøtstuene; Nkr25/free rest-of-year, alsovalidfor mid-May–mid-Sep, . museumvest.no; Finnegårdsgaten 1a;adult/childNkr45/free This terrific Bryggens Museum and elsewhere. for the history andthreats toitsexistence, lookout as alarge room,or assembly crane forloadingandunloadingships, aswell quarters andwarehouses. buildinghada Each and combinedbusiness premises withliving twoorthreeThey rose storeys above thewharf usually shared byseveral name means‘TheWharf’),each of which was 30 woodenbuildingsonBryggen (whose to the 12th century. Bryggen Hnetc Museum Hanseatic For anexcellentsummaryof Bryggen’s In theearly14thcentury,there were about MapBryggen (see p196 a ) hasalways been Bryggen Guide, Bryggen h museum 9am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 11am-2pm 9am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, BERGEN••Sights&Activities

Mp p196; (Map available fromthe stuer provides awin- schøtstue, % (tradingfirms). 55 544690;www where 11am-2pm Sunrest-of-year) priual interesting. particularly inaround1300 is tion documenting Bergen tery, skulls andrunes.Thepermanentexhibi- tools,pot- exhibits, which includemedieval construction have incorporated intothe been 800-year-old foundationsunearthedduring the site of firstandthe Bergen’s settlement, noon-3pm Sat,noon-4pmSunSep-Apr) Bergen Card; 80 10;Dreggsallmenning 3;adult/childNkr40/20,free with The archaeological Bryggens Museum guzzling. andbeermet fortheirbusinessmeetings the fraternity of Hanseatic merchants once of oneof hallswhere theoriginalassembly Nkr45/free; Museum withHanseaticØvregaten 50;adult/childcombinedticket Museum, complementtotheHanseaticAn essential Schøtstuene the fish into barrels. and the a millionpounds(450,000kg)of fishamonth; age room,which over pressed andprocessed beds were shared bytwomen;thefishstor- child Nkr20/5; tiniest ered bytheNazis in1942,isnow Norway’s clandestine headquarters,Resistance uncov- This excellent one-roomreconstruction of a Theta Museum online. office, somehotels, thebusterminal and Bergen Card isavailablefromthetourist The andculturalperformances. concerts counts oncityandboatsightseeingtours, rest; free guidedtoursofBergen; anddis- museums withdiscounted admissiontothe funicular (Map p196 ); free entrancetosome free travel onlocalbusesandtheFløibanen suremake itseconomical.The cardcovers andasteady pacetoplanning, anearlystart ing admissionfees, careful althoughittakes The The BERGEN CARD Nkr70/10) gencard; adultper24/48hrsNkr170/250,child museum Bergen Card fiskeskrue, h is worth consideringgiven isworth theris- Schøtstuene h 10am 11am-3pmMon-Fri, -5pm May-Aug,

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a i e n 93 lonelyplanet.com chants in 1676. baroque pulpit donated byHanseatic mer- tures 15th-century frescoes andasplendid oldestbuilding. TheinteriorBergen’s fea- dates fromtheearly 12thcenturyand is its Romanesque entranceandtwintowers, rest-of-year) 11am-12.30pmTue-Fri Jun–late-Aug, of-year &withBergenCard; Dreggen; free adult/childNkr20/free rest- mid-Jun–late-Aug, This stone Mariakirken p204). (see you’ll findarange snacks of seafood tasty turns thequayintoaslipperymess, and spilteffluent theolfactory senses, assault awayfrom.Here,yourself fishyodours a happy,bustlingvibethat’shard totear The waterfront fishmarket atTorget has Torget the stairs tothe 3rd floor. restaurant; thealleyand up passthrough a challenge. It’sbehindtheEnhjørningen Sep) Sjøbad...... Natural HistoryMuseum...... Maritime Museum...... Mariakirken...... Leprosy Museum...... Håkonshallen...... Hanseatic Museum...... Cultural HistoryMuseum...... Bryggens Museum...... Bryggen Warehouses...... Bremen (Domkirken)...... Bergens-Expressen ToyTrain...... Bergen ArtMuseum...... Bergen Aquarium...... Zoex...... Tourist Office...... Sparebanken Vest...... Pharmacy...... (see 87) Norli...... Norli...... (see 80) Main PostOffice...... Legevakten MedicalClinic...... Kilroy Travel...... Jarlens Vaskoteque...... Cyberhouse...... Bergen TurlagDNTOffice...... Bergen Library...... Accezzo...... (see 80) First HotelMarin...... Det HanseatiskeHotel...... Clarion HotelAdmiral...... City Box...... Bergen VandrerhjemYMCA...... Augustin Hotel...... Torget FishMarket...... Theta Museum...... Schøtstuene...... Rosenkrantz Tower...... INFORMATION SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES SLEEPING . Appropriately enough, findingitisstill . Appropriately enough, church BERGEN••Sights&Activities

Mp p196 ; (Map h 9.30-11.30am &1-4pm mid- 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 9 C3 C3 D5 C4 D3 C3 D4 D4 C3 C3 B3 D5 C3 B3 C3 C2 C2 B2 A2 C5 B5 C2 D4 B2 C3 C5 C2 C2 D3 C3 C4 A2 D3 C3 C3 % Red Sun...... Pygmalion Økocafé...... (see31) Pingvinen...... Naboen...... Lido...... Kjøttbasarell...... Kafe Kippers...... Godt Brød...... Finnegaards Stuene...... (see34) Escalon...... Enhjørningen...... Bryggen Tracteursted...... Bryggeloftet &Stuene...... Boha...... Bocca...... (see 38) Bar Celona...... Baker Brun...... Baker Brun...... Villa Nordnes...... Steens Hotell...... Skuteviken Gjesthus...... Skansen Pensjonat...... Rica StrandHotel...... Marken Gjestehus...... Kjellersmauet Gjestehus...... Jacob's Apartments...... In CityHotel&Apartments...... Hotel ParkPension...... Grand HotelTerminus...... Det LilleKaffeKompaniet...... Capello...... Café Opera...... Bocca...... (see 38) Altona Vinbar...... (see30) Wesselstuen...... Torget FishMarket...... (see29) Sumo...... (see 63) Stragiotti...... Sol Brød...... EATING DRINKING 55 315960; , with Wed, 3-6pmThuSep–mid-May) Card; 60 67;Bergenhus;adult/child Nkr40/20,free withBergen This large ceremonial Håkonshallen reasonable harbourviewfromthesummit. poststoa leadpasthallsandsentry staircases Sun Sep–mid-May) with BergenCard; p196; this Rosenkrantz, governorBuilt inthe1560sbyBergen Erik Rosenkrantz Tower tours in summer. carried out. Therebeen are hourly guided tions boat, butextensive restoration has thanks to theexplosionof aDutch muni- coronation. Theroof in1944 was blownoff and completed forhisson’s wedding and King HåkonHåkonsson from 1247–61 Tower,wasconstructed byRosenkrantz the 1520sfortress of Jørgen Hansson. Spiral (1273) of KingMagnus and theLawmender post. Italsoincorporates partsof thekeep % h 55 314380;Bergenhus;adult/childNkr40/20, free 10am-4pm daily mid-May–Aug, noon-3pm Fri- 10am-4pm dailymid-May–Aug, 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 67 66 65 64 C4 C3 C3 C4 C4 C3 C3 A3 C3 D3 C2 C2 C2 C4 C4 C3 C2 D3 D3 B4 C4 A2 C5 C1 D2 C3 D3 B3 D3 C4 C5 D4 h wasaresidence anddefence Vågen HarbourFerry...... (see29) Sykkelbutikken...... Strandkaiterminal (ExpressFerries)...... Skoltegrunnskaien (InternationalFerry). Rødne FjordCruise...... (see92) Freileneskaien (HurtigrutenTerminal)... Fløibanen FunicularStation...... Ferries toRosendal...... Bus Terminal...... Xhibition...... (see 7) Oleana...... Læverkstedet...... Kvams Flisespikkeri...... Juhls' SilverGallery...... Husfliden...... Gitarmaker...... Galleriet ShoppingCentre...... Foto Video...... USF Vertfet...... (see56) Rick's...... Hulen...... Grieghallen...... Garage...... Fana FolkloreShowDeparturePoint..... Calibar...... Bergen Kino...... Bergen Folklore...... (see27) Vågen...... (see 61) To GlassVinbar...... Pingvinen...... (see 60) Onkel Lauritz...... (see50) Naboen...... (see 59) Legal...... Kafe Kippers...... (see56) Jacob's Café...... (see39) Fincken...... Dromedar Kaffebar...... SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT TRANSPORT 10am-4pm mid-May–Aug, noon-3pm 10am-4pm mid-May–Aug, tower hall

(Rosenkrantztårnet; Map (Rosenkrantztårnet; Map , adjacenttothe Mp p196 ; (Map % 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70 69 68 81 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 80 79 93 92 91 55 31

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SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS h 7; adult/child/studentNkr50/free/35, free withBergen Card; Allé3& Meyers Rasmus 80 00;www.bergenartmuseum.no; museum art theLilleLungegårdsvann lake,Beside this Bergen ArtMuseum Abbey’s chapter house in London. who adornedWestminster masons asthose stone- bythesame is superb;itwascarved visit. Thestonemasonryintheentrance hall known asSt Olav’s Church, iswellwortha mid-Jun–mid-Aug, rest-of-year) 11am-12.30pmTue-Fri Bergen’s Bergen Cathedral(DomkirkeN) 198 a p196; Map Collection History Cultural hrsrest-of-year) Sat &SunJun-Aug, shorter free withBergenCard; Nkr40/free, .uib.no; adult/student orchildcombined ticket The twomainuniversity University Museums Picasso, Kandinsky and Paul Klee. Norwegian artists, including Munch, Miró, and 19th-century piecesbyinternational and of-year) Domkirkeplass 1;admission free; Domkirkeplass timbers inseawater before usingtheminreconstruction. sorbed intothetimbersincenturiespastmayhave restorers aidedtheirpreservation; nowsoak between theoriginal features andmore recent works. Restorers have alsolearnedthatsaltab- although therestorations shouldalsobe‘readable’, inthatpeopleshouldbeabletodistinguish management guidelines’.Wherever possible,restorers usetraditionalcraftsmanshipandmaterials, for thesafeguarding ofthebuildings,provided andpreservation theyfollowtheplansand Bryggen onitsWorldHeritagelist. the FoundationofBryggenwasestablished,attitudesslowlychanged.In1979 Unescoinscribed whichwasfoundedin2000tooverseeof theBryggenProject, therestoration ofBryggen.After wanted to‘tear downtherat’snestafter thefire in1955’,saysIngerMarieEgenberg, manager (www.stiftelsenbryggen.no) overthe 1955fire andwhichunearthed onemillionartefacts.In1962the eight-storey buildings,abusstation, shoppingcentre and carpark. widely seenasanembarrassment.Plansfortheredevelopment ofthesite included modern, once andforall;notonlywasitconsidered adangerousfire hazard,butitsrun-downstate was The explosionand1955fire increased thealready considerable clamourtotear downBryggen a Dutchmunitionsshipexplodedintheharbour,blowingoffroofs andshifting thepilings. ofBryggenwasdestroyed).The notabletiltof thestructures wascausedin1944,whenone-third century fightingplanstotear itdown. So beautifulis spentmuchofthe20th Bryggen thatitseemsinconceivable thatconservationists SAVING BRYGGEN 11am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 11am-5pmTue-Sun rest- 11am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, EGN • ihs&Atvte BERGEN ••Sights&Activities The buildingsare privately owned.MsEgenberg adds,‘The ownersare permitted state funds What saved Bryggenwere thearchaeological excavationsthattook13yearstocomplete after Fire hasdestroyedBryggen atleastseven times(especially in1702andagain1955when exhibits asuperbcollection of 18th- % cathedral

55 58 31 40;Haakon Sheteligs plass10) (Bergen Kunstmuseum; Map (Bergen Kunstmuseum;Map p196 ; h Mp p196; (Map 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm 10am-4pm Tue-Fri,

andFriendsofBryggenwere formed.Alotofpeopleandlocalpoliticians (Kultur-historik Samlinger; (Kultur-historik museums h 11am-4pm Mon-Fri 11am-4pm Mon-Fri % include: the

(www.museum 55 315875; % with , also 55 56 Nkr150/100, withBergen CardNkr115/75; 4;adult/child Nordnesbakken 71; www.akvariet.com; tion as a single entity. the school of tofunc- herring,which seems loveable steinbit, thehideous anglerfishor forget You’llnever as 70indoor tanks. the andpenguins,as well withseals door tank noon&3pmSep-Apr) 6pm May-Aug, feeding timesnoon, 3pm& 10am-6pmSep-Apr, May-Aug, aquarium At theendof theNordnes Peninsula, this Bergen Aquarium exhibits tracingNorway’s maritime history. of shipsfromVikingtimestothepresent and child Nkr30/free; % Bergen’s Maritime Museum % Collection History toEgyptianIbsen mummies;andthe and displayscovering from everything Henrik period furnishings, InuitandAleutcultures altars, folkart, Viking weaponry,medieval tory of this seafaring city.Itfeaturestory of thisseafaring models Sep-May) 55 549600;HaakonSheteligsplass15;adult/student or 55 582920; 3) Muséplass is essential tounderstanding thehis- isessential Maritime Museum Maritime

(Bergen Akvariet; Map Map (Bergen Akvariet; p196 ; h 11am-3pm Jun-Aug, 11am-2pm Sun-Fri 11am-3pm Jun-Aug, 11am-2pm Sun-Fri

(Naturhistorisk Samlinger; Map Samlinger;Map (Naturhistorisk p196 ; . Bryggen Foundation

Søatmse; a p196; Map (Sjøfartsmuseet; hasabigout- lonelyplanet.com h % 9am-7pm 55 71 Natural

lonelyplanet.com bition and a 200-seat concert hall.Of particu- bition anda200-seat to thepublic, there’s amultimediaGrieg exhi- andgroundsare1907. Today thehouse open mer here from1885 untilGrieg’sdeath in and hiswife NinaHagerup sum- spentevery of Composer Bergen. Edvard Grieg(see p50 ) Nordåsvatnetlake,by thecoastal tothesouth lovely on alush and scenicpeninsula setting dates from1885andoccupies anundeniably with BergenCard; www.troldhaugen.com; Hop;adult/childNkr60/free, Nkr20 This two-storey Troldhaugen free andtheyare open all year. bus (No20-23).Admission tothegroundsis walk fromTorget willget youthere or take a from the18thand19thcenturies.A 30-minute centre, boastsafinecollection of 35structures Sep) 10am-5pm mid-May–early adult/child Nkr50/25,free withBergenCard; 39 4300;www.bymuseet.no;Nyhavnsveien4, Sandviken; The open-air Gamle Bergen 11. bus or ( p209) 20 minutes; alternatively, take theVågen ferry On foot,youcanget there fromTorget in tions andalsothelocalnewspaper,’saysMsKrantz.‘The attitudehaschanged.’ neighbourhoods’. have organised inso-called ately runthemdownanddestroythem’.Inresponse, shesays,‘peoplelivingintheoldareas from developers buyinguphousesandsometimeswholestreet inordertodeliber- quarters local government ‘thegreatest districts, toprotect suchformerlyworking-class threat comes clad areas ofBergen. AccordingtoSonja Krantz,whohasbeenoneofmanylocalslobbyingthe and tear, italive’. buttheyalsokeep cultural significanceofthesite wear willeventually belost.’Tourists,shesays,docause a ‘certain money) fails,wewillnotbeabletoworkaccordingtheguidelinesmentioned, andthenthe causing theoceantoreach higherlevels, isabigthreat, butIthinkiftheresource plan(read solve theproblem. outwhatcanbedoneto tosort and thecultural-heritageauthoritiesare ongoinginaneffort buildings themselves. Wejustdidn’tknowbetter, backthen.’Talks hotel betweentheRadisson causing rot,compression andeventually damagetothefoundationofbuildingsand building. Thus theculturallayersunderBryggensite are supplied withtoomuchoxygen, endofBryggenin1982,‘itwasnecessarytodrainoutthegroundwater under thenorthern SASRoyalHotelexplains, whentheRadisson anditsunderground carparkwere builtatthe ‘Politicians are undergreat pressure toprotect thesefragile areas, bothfromthelocalassocia- topreserve, are butotherold,timber- seeking It isnotonlyBryggenthatconservationists There are ofBryggen,saysMsEgenberg. numerousthreats tothesurvival ‘Globalwarming, Even withagreater have issues,mistakes beenmade. awareness As ofconservation MsEgenberg h Old Bergen Museum Old Bergen BERGEN••Sights&Activities 9am-6pm May-Sep, shorter hrsOct-Apr) shorter 9am-6pm May-Sep, home

Mp p194 ; (Map , 4kmnorthof the city velforreninger,

Mp p194; (Map % h 55 922992; hourly tours % informal,voluntaryassociationssetuptoprotect their 55

are available atthe tourist office. International Festival; tickets andschedules Saturday andSundayduringthe Bergen Another well-known Norwegian composer’s Another well-known Norwegiancomposer’s Siljustøl Museum during theBergen International Festival. are fromoutsidethetouristoffice free buses to Troldhaugen; it’sa20-minute walk.There stop. Fromthere,Hopsbroen followthesigns Nkr160/220, children free) Nordåsvatnet. It’san impressive place. are embeddedinarockfacethatoverlooks in1892;andthecouple’s tombs,whichsary Edvard andNina’s50thwedding anniver- Steinway piano,which wasagifttocelebrate Edvard mustered hismusicalinspiration;the lar interest are Hut,where theComposer’s ment. Harald Sæverud’s first symphony was an attempt tocreate unitywith theenviron- 1930s of natural stoneand untreated woodin simple timber home. Itwas constructed inthe dent Nkr60/free/20; and Marie Sæverud lived in home lies3kmsouth of Troldhaugen. Harald % Take anybusfromplatforms19 to21the In summer, 55 922992;www.siljustol.no; Siljustøl;adult/child/stu- concerts h noon-4pm Sun late-Jun–late-Sep) are heldonWednesday,

As toldtoAnthonyHam (adult with/withoutBergenCard Siljustøl

Mp p194; (Map 199

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SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS Norway’s (ifnotEurope’s)finestexampleof hall of Norwegianpine. marble columnsandahigh-ceilinged music onion domes,romanticgardenpaths, Italian not onlyintricate frets andtrellises, butalso tecture of MoorishGranadaandintegrated of itsextravagant inspirationfromthearchi- ‘Lysøen’. This‘LittleAlhambra’took much von derLippeconstructed villa thefantasy and 1873,hearchitect ConradFredrik 1872 about 20kmsouthof Between Bergen. the70-hectareBull purchased Lysøenisland, Bull’s French-born wife, Felicité Villeminot, ist Ole Bull(see p49 ). After the deathof Ole mer residence of renowned Norwegianviolin- the same name, wasbuiltin1873asthesum- noon-4pmSunSep) mid-May–Aug, with BergenCard; .lysoen.no; Lysøen;adult/childinclguidedtourNkr30/10,free This beautiful Lysøen take bus19from the centre. were common200years ago. Toget there, sculptures, pondsandplantspecimensthat isthebaroquegarden,which includes light over-the-top)building’s superb(even high- 18th-century rococotimberarchitecture. The tours 11am-4pm) free withBergenCard; adult/child Nkr50/25, Laksevåg; 10; www.vk.museum.no; The 1770 Damsgård 20. platform as requested. Toget there, take bus30from given funeralandburiedatSiljustøl, astate Festival. WhenhediedinMarch 1992, hewas ofcomposer International theBergen Music Nazi occupation.In1986hewasmadeofficial WWII, hewrote protest musicagainstthe to Norwegianseverywhere when,during completed in1920andheendeared himself 200 noon to3pm, to4pm Sun) to Lysøen. senger ferry (adult/child Nkr50/20;hourly 19 or20 to BuenaQuay,where there’s apas- (566 and 567,return Nkr110)from platform bus take theLysefjorden busstation, Bergen’s leisurely walks andthere’s asmallcafé. From gate. city the Assistentkirkegården old nearBergen’s ers accompanied thefuneralprocession to erty inAugust1880, about 10,000mourn- The groundsare with13kmof crisscrossed When OleBulldied attheLysøenprop- EGN • ihs&Atvte BERGEN ••Sights&Activities Damsgård manor , 3kmwestof town,maywellbe h estate h noon-4pm Mon-Sat,11am-5pmSun

Mp p194; (Map 11am-5pm late May-Aug, hourly 11am-5pm lateMay-Aug,

Mp p194; (Map , ontheislandof % 56 309077;www % 55 5880 20; www.ulriken.no; adult/childreturn Nkr80/40; 20; www.ulriken.no; off at theFantoftoff stopon Birkelundsbakken take anybus leaving fromplatform 20,get Rogaland, dates from 1050.FromBergen The adjacent reconstructed. painstakingly it hassince been released heavy musician) in1992,but metal (andsoon-to-be-burned downby a Satanist southern outskirts of in 1883.Itwas Bergen around1150andmovedin Sognefjord tothe name ‘Paradise’) southof wasbuilt Bergen, in alovely bythe (which goes leafy setting Card; Paradis; adult/child/studentNkr30/12/20,free withBergen The Fantoft Fantoft Stavkirke Fløibanen funicular railway. along awell-beaten tracktothetopof the cable carandwalkfourtosixhours north Bryggen. from bus 2or31fromthepostoffice or bus50 from thecentre orafew minutes’ rideon it’sa45-minuteist office. walk Otherwise, cable carandareturn busfromthetour- in aNutshell’ticket ( opposite ) includesthe The‘Bergen andmountains. rounding fjords offering apanoramicviewof thecityandsur- radio towerandcaféatopMtUlriken (642m), hrsrest-of-year) 9pm Jun-Aug,shorter The Ulriksbanen ULRIKSBANEN switchbacks downto the harbour. andconnectwithtrack6,which clockwise back tothecityfromFløyen,followtrack4 lakes. 40-minuteseveral Foradelightful walk 5km loopover forests hills,through andpast Skomakerdiket andtrackNo1offers Lake a fice. TrackNo2makes a1.6kmloopnear maps available touristof- fromtheBergen Turløyper PåByfjelleneNord/Øst mapped outonthefree lead intotheforest; thepossibilities are every 15 minutes. the topof MtFløyen(320m),withdepartures 8am-11pmMon-Sat&9am-11pmSunSep-Apr) May-Aug, return Nkr70/35,free withBergenCard; 68 00;www.floibanen.no;Vetrlidsalmenning 21;adult/child degree Fløibanen viewofFor anunbeatable thecity,ride26- FLØIBANEN Funiculars A popularexcursion istorideuponthe From thetop,well-marked hikingtracks h 10.30am-2pm &2.30-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep) stave church stave cross cable car , originally fromSolain funicular

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Mp p194 ; (Map Mp p196; (Map Gledeskartet lonelyplanet.com ascends tothe h % 8am-midnight % (Nkr10) 55 280710; % h 55 20 55 33 9am- or to , Troldhaugen, among other sights. which take youtoFantoft Stave Church and opposite theHanseatic andupinto Museum trundles alongtheBryggen waterfront from front nexttothe fish market. Thu, Sat&SunSep) h runs afour-hour of Bryggen andthesurroundinghills.Italso h a one-hour FjordSightseeing Bergen TOURS water. open a littlecooler,there’s adivingboardtothe at thewater’s edge isgood.Forsomething h Pool; Map p196 ; off (27°C) atthe waters,cold fjord theoutdoorheated pool If you fancy aswimbutcan’tfacewadinginto Swimming Pools minutes. five theparkforabout and walkuphillthrough lonelyplanet.com & 7pm, shorter hrsMay–mid-Jun &mid-Aug–Sep) & 7pm,shorter h 53 1150;www.bergensexpressen.no; adult/child Nkr100/40; didn’t have its Nkr280/180, discountwithBergenCard; Guided Tours istojoinoneofsights thethree-hour Bergen wouldn’tbeatouristtownifitBergen A goodwaytoreach themore outlying hour a late dinner(oryoucancontinue ontoOsloarrive around10pm). to Flåm,joiningthe stunningmountainrailwaytoMyrdal, andatrainbacktoBergen intime for Hotel andthenontoGudvangen, fromwhere aferry Nærøyfjord you upthespectacular takes (adult/child Nkr820/410) fromBergen combinesamorningtrain toVoss,abustheStalheim tour isagreat way toseefarmore thanyouthought possibleinasingleday.The dayticket as well as the nine-hour as well thenine-hour limited timewithaseriesoftoursintothefjords. Itspopularandyear-round if youhave aBergen Card. therea fulllistandyoucanbuytickets orpurchaseonlineinsomecases. Mostoffer discounts You canjoinanyoneofdozens oftoursBergen andlongerfjordtours;thetouristoffice has FJORD TOURSFROMBERGEN Nkr195/110). Gudvangen andVoss. 10am & 2.30pm Jul–late-Aug, 10am May &Jun,10amTue, 10amMay 10am &2.30pmJul–late-Aug, 3.30pm Jun– late-Aug) half-hourly 10am-5pmmid-Jun–mid-Aug &hourly6pm 7am-7pm Mon-Sat,10am-7pmSunmid-May–Aug) From MaytoSeptember, italsorunstrain-bus-boat round-tripsfromBergen suchas the10- Fjord Tours Tide Explore Hardangerfjord

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harbour tour 55 238700; www.tide.no) ( . Boatsdepartfromthewater- Bergens-Expressen Nordnes Sjøbad % BERGEN••Tours

Haugeveien; adult/childNkr46/21;Haugeveien; ( fjord tour % 05505; www.tide.no; adult/child , which offers goodviews 81 568222;www.fjordtours.com)

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World Heritage Tour (adult/child Nkr100/50, (adult/child Nkr400/200; 55 259000)

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(Nkr830), has mastered the art of making themostof hasmastered ofmaking the art other popularexcursion istheSundaytour 90-minute walkingtours of central Bergen. Card Nkr75/free/35; bergen.com; adult/child/teenagerNkr95/free/45, withBergen town. old lows entitled alsohasa(free) brochureBryggens Museum later onthe museums day). same Hanseatic (you canrevisit these Museum Schøtstuene andthe to Bryggens Museum, ing heyday.Theticket includesadmission descriptions of life trad- duringBergen’s includes andthecommentary Museum They last90minutes, leave fromBryggens 11am&1pm(English),noon(Norwegian)Jun-Aug) (German), Bryggen also take oneof theexcellent isavailableCommentary in six languages. to theUlriksbanencablecarandbackagain. fish market, alongtheBryggen waterfront, &Sep) Jun-Aug, 9am-5pmMay adult/childNkr150/75; www.ulriken.no; to Bergen the aquarium. usual hop-on,hop-off citycircuitfromGamle Nkr100/70; trip takes one hour. some of themore interesting backstreets. The .turistbuss.no; adult/childNkr150/100,withBergenCard.turistbuss.no; From early June to early September, an- From earlyJunetoSeptember, GuideService Bergen Narrowing yourfocusalittle,youcould The The If youprefer toexplore atyourownpace, which takes inSognefjord, Nærøyfjord, whichtakes self-guided tours self-guided ‘Bergen inaNutshell’bus ‘Bergen ( On&Off CityTour On&Off % h Meeting Point Bryggen, 55 588010;adult/childNkr80/free; hourly 9.30am-4.30pmJun-Sep) h 3pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug) covering 12stopsinthe

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SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS tolate Mid- October. at theend of May. as thecity’slargestudentpopulationgetsinto theswing mer months. Whilewewere there, thetourist before arrivingintown,atleastthesum- vice, itwouldtobookyouraccommodation if wecouldleave youwithonlypieceof ad- accommodation,but has outstanding Bergen SLEEPING .visitbergen.com. the websiteFor afulllistof see events, www Night JazzFestival Film Festival International Bergen FoodFestival Bergen guitarfestival.com) Late June. GuitarFestival International Bergen toearlyMay. festival, lateApril Bergenfest ascent, buttherecord timeisonly 4½ hours! foot. It’sanarduous30km,with2200mof where allthelocalpeaksmustbevisited on tions throughout the city. year, withdance,musicandfolklore presenta- early June, is thebigculturalfestival of the www.fib.no) The costs Nkr120/60 return. (adult/child Nkr200/100).Thetraintripalone to Midtun.Thewholetriptakes fourhours there theteak-panelled train inches 18km way museum ferry M/S by 202 charms, it’s accessible by public although and Haukeland, isalong wayfromBergen’s camp site, Espeland 20kmfrom townbetween plus perperson Nkr20,cabinsNkr400-900) tentsitesNkr130 697, Haukeland; camping.no; Hardangerveien Lone Camping Budget for advance booking). (Nkr30forwalk-ins,Nkr50 booking service away, asBergen was full. tourists toVoss,onehour wassending office Midtun. Itbeginsat9amonthehistoric which, sadly,includes whale meat. mid-September. Itshowcaseslocallygrownorcaughtfood, FESTIVALS &EVENTS In late May, there’s the Other highlights include: Other highlights The tourist office hasanaccommodation The touristoffice veteran steam train steam veteran Bergen International Festival International Bergen EGN • etvl vns BERGEN ••Festivals &Events , heldfor14days from late May until (www.bergenfest.no) Internationalmusic Bruvik

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(www.biff.no) Thislakeside ( % (www.bergen 55 3666; rail- , Bergen, butthis charming place Bergen, seven-room springing upalloverily-run guesthouses Nkr375-500, dNkr600-700,aptNkr750) Vetrlidsalmenning 29;s 90 80;www.skansen-pensjonat.no; choice ina quiet location. owner, Grethe Marthinussen. It’sagood collection of antiquesandbythefriendly totheaquariumisilluminated byafine close outontheNordnesPeninsularambling house 34;sNkr350-500,dNkr650-750) Haugeveien Nordnes Villa Midrange catches onelsewhere in Norway. hopetheCityBoxa laundryroom.Let’s idea the roomshave kitchen facilitiesandthere’s two showers five forevery rooms,most of For theroomswithoutabathroom, there are andfriendlyyoungstaff. without thepricetag wireless access,aminimalistdesignerfeel modern roomswithsplashesof colour,free owners dosimplethingswell,such asbright hostel CityBox inBergen, isaplacewhere the bathroom Nkr500/600,breakfast Nkr59; Nygårdsgaten 31;s/dwithshared bathroomNkr400/500, with Nkr65/10 forthose in dorms. washing machine andbedlinen/towelscost nal areas are Italsohas cleanandpleasant. of andspacethecommu- light sense walls andwoodenfloors give anattractive but extremely well-kept rooms.Thewhite Nkr500/630) Nkr160, s/dwithshared bathroomNkr395/500,with KongOscarsgate 45;dmfrom www.marken-gjestehus.com; price andbookingsare year-round.essential rooftop terrace. Children under14payhalf or mixed dorms,kitchen facilitiesandaterrific It hasthatunmistakeable hostel feel, same-sex friendly hostel couldbe Norway’smostcentral. ing inahostel meantalonghike intotown;this & bedlinenNkr750; 230, bedlinenNkr50,breakfast Nkr55,dwithbathroom,breakfast 4;dmNkr155- www.bergenhostel.no; Nedre Korskirkealmenning is 4kmsouthof Lone Camping. accessible onbus900,thiswell-equippedsite Nkr110 plusperpersonNkr15,cabinsNkr390-1200) 30 minutes) half-hour.every transport; bus900runsto/fromtown(Nkr42, the train station, this guesthouse hassimple, thisguesthouse the trainstation, .bratlandcamping.no; Bratlandsveien 6, Haukeland; tentsites .bratlandcamping.no; Bratlandsveien6,Haukeland; o Gjestehus Marken YMCA Vandrerhjem Bergen City Box City Box Bratland Camping Midway between theharbourand Midwaybetween Skansen Pensjonat Skansen Mp p196; (Map

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Mp p196; (Map % There are fam- % i 55 101338;www This lovely, % 55 314404; ) Thebest 55 60 60 55; 55 6055; % Also 55 31 and tradition in a delightful timber-cladand traditioninadelightful street from Nkr600/800/1350/1400) www.gjestehuset.com; Kjellersmauet22;1-/2-/3-/4-bedapt isquite the guesthouse simply charming. workadornstherooms, by twoartistswhose a few moderntouches. Painstakingly restored white wicker furniture andlacecushions) bled street, hastraditionaldecoration(such as onasmallcob- set thentic timberguesthouse, d Nkr600/800,atticrNkr900) Smalgang11;s/ Skutevikens www.skutevikenguesthouse.com; apartments include breakfast. Pricesforallbutthelargestnicest inBergen. more sothan‘thebalconyroom’,oneof the choice. Theroomsare andairy,none light warmth totheplace),make thisaterrific owners, Jannicke and Svein (whoaddmuch andmanypersonalto detail touches fromthe arealbehind thefunicularstation, attention is stillourfavourite. Awonderfullocationup Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels across theroad fromreception are more sub- inthebuilding is different, those although beautiful 19th-centurybuildings. Every room tiques, this family-runplace spreads over two Nkr970-1140; 35;sNkr700-940, d HaraldHårfagresgate .parkhotel.no; do withalittle more light. duplexroomscould these although two levels, and somearehave spread flat-screen over TVs The rooms hotel andtheyalmostsucceed. apt Nkr860/960,breakfast Nkr60; KongOscars gate44;dmNkr165,s/d www.apartments.no; some of Bergen’s cheapest parking. windows.Italso boastswith stained-glass spacious andthere’s awonderfuldiningroom It’s alsoawelcomingplace. Mostroomsare room facilitieshave recently renovated. been of thebath- thestairway; to thegentle curve charm, fromthelate-19th-century antiques lovely 19th-century buildingoozes period otherwise sNkr650-950,dNkr880-1160; hotel.no; Parkveien 22;s/tw/dwith FjordPass Nkr700/850/970, modern bathroomsmake fora great stay. Wooden floors, traditionaldecorationand in abuildingdatingbacktothe16thcentury. a range of small,mediumandlarge apartments caretaking of herguests,theKjellersmauet has theextramilein by thefriendlySonja,whogoes southwest of thecentre Run isalsooutstanding. trying hardtopresent adesigner apartment Skuteviken Gjestehus Skuteviken Jacobs Apartments Hotell Steens Kjellersmauet Gjestehus Kjellersmauet Gjestehus Hotel Park PensionHotel i )

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% Mp p196; (Map i 55 308888;www.steens ) % Theowners are BERGEN••Sleeping p % 55 544400;www Nkr40 % % 98 238600; 93 467163; 55 96 26 08; 55 962608; i ) This to those withviewsoverto those Torget andtowards With roomsthat range squeeze fromatight 2-4;s/d Nkr1200/1500; .strandhotel.no; Strandkaien you’re going tosplashout,do it here. mostatmospheric hotel.is easilyBergen’s If and connected byawonderfulwalkway,this Hanseatic port.Spread over twobuildings chitectural features fromBryggen’s daysasa antique bathtubsandsomeextraordinary ar- cohabit with age.gone Bergen Flat-screen TVs luxurious andlike stepping backintoaby- of DetHanseatiske Bryggen itself, Hotel is inside theoldtimberbuildings to behoused Now here’s somethingspecial.Theonlyhotel Nkr1195/1395, deluxe dNkr1695-1895,steuptoNkr4500; Finnegårdsgaten48 00;www.dethanseatiskehotell.no; 2;s/d o Top End comfortable. and have alotof personality butthey’re large the orderof thedayhere. Theroomsdon’t equipped apartmentsintheheartof townare house/ste Nkr1190/1490/1690/1990; 16 13;www.incity.no;Øvre OleBullsplass3;d/deluxe/pent- corridors. the andicemachines in a cigarandcognacsalon can get awaterside room.Thehotel alsohas the bestviewtowake ifyou uptoinBergen ing rooms,thiswell-appointed hotel promises Bryggen fromthebalconiesof itsharbour-fac- 1555) www.admiral.no; CSundtsgate9;sNkr990-1150,dNkr1160- lacking in chain hotels. there’s atouch of classhere that’ssometimes location. Someroomshave harbourviewsand Hotel Marin hasamaritimethemeandgreat front andwitheleganthardwoodfloors, First just a15-minute walkfromthe city centre. Thelocationisquietand and filledwithlight. ing desksandthecornerroomsare gorgeous tle; inthemainbuilding,expectantiquewrit- for the friendliness of itswelcome. It’s alsoone oldestfamily-run hotel,Bergen’s it’srenowned Two things make out:first, thisplace stand as gustin.no; C Sundtsgate 22;s/dNkr1450/1650; excellent central location. Bryggen, the1920s-eraRicaStrand hasan Nkr990/1150; Rosenkrantzgate8;s/[email protected]; In City Hotel &Apartments In CityHotel Admiral Hotel Clarion Rica StrandHotel Rica Marin First Hotel Augustin Hotel Hotel Augustin With sweeping viewsacrossthewater to Withsweeping Det Hanseatiske Hotel Det Hanseatiske i ) A blockbackfromthewater-

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SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS and allsortsof gourmet items. you’re planning apicnicwithcheeses, meats or prepare bagto asealed take home. usually happytomake upatake-away platter nonfishy reindeer andelk.Stallholders are guettes (Nkr45),localcaviar and,sometimes, (Nkr130), fish cakes (fromNkr89), prawnba- tocalamari andchipsconscience) andsalmon meat (Nkr349akiloifyoucanlive withyour fromsmokedyou’ll findeverything whale bour andastone’sthrowfromBryggen, here beat thefishmarket. alongside thehar- Right Sep-May) gen.no; Torget; o Markets &Bakeries Øvre Ole Bulls plass. as creative choices aroundandsouthwestof tourist market. There are exceptionsaswell many are targeted atafairlyundiscerning intheBryggen andTorgettaurants area, but Norwegian tradition.There are plentyof res- all therage) butyou’llalsofindbastionsof trends make are theirmark(sushi andtapas isthesortofBergen placewhere international EATING elaborate décormake thisplace out. stand charm (thebuilding dates from1928)and are ornate andspacious, buttheold-world rooms are crampedandalittlesoulless, others visitors.choice forthecity’swell-heeled Some Terminus thehotel of hashistoricallybeen Opposite theGrandHotel thetrainstation, Nkr1450/1650, cheaperwithFjordPass; 6;s/dfrom www.grand-hotel-terminus.no; ZanderKaaesgate wine bar,roundouta great package. cious roomsandAltona( opposite ), afunky p21 ). Modernartworks,blue-dominated, spa- bytheNorwegian governmentability set (see ofexacting standards sustain- environmental of very few hotels thathasmetthe inBergen 204 Baker Brun Baker bakeries: favourite ie theold currency unit)buns.Some of our shaped in aball,which translates asshilling, own One delicacyto watch outfor isBergen’s Sat) h h Bakeries are in plentifulsupplyinBergen. Kjøttbasarell TerminusGrand Hotel 10am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 10am-6pmThu,9am-4pm 10am-5pm Mon-Wed& Fri, 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) This lovely oldfoodmarket isexcellentif EGN • aig BERGEN ••Eating shillingsboller For priceandatmosphere, it’shardto Torget Fish Market Torget (Map (Map p196 Quay; ; Zachariasbryggen h

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Sun) gate; h to theearly19thcentury,which isplentyof tional Norwegianfare, thisrestaurant dates Bryggen 11;specialsfromNkr89,mainsNkr89-275; get battered bytheNkr5charge togothe good traditionalgrub.Itsbudget credentials Bryggen; light meals Nkr95-145, starters Nkr82-145, mains Bryggen; lightmeals Nkr95-145, starters of reindeer (Nkr259) is excellent. choice intellectuals. forBergen’s Thesirloin past and iswellknownas therestaurant of the wood-panelled dininghallsof Bergen’s ner) Nkr79-109, mainsNkr219-259; plass 6;starters attentive. also is décor workswonderfully well.Theservice winelistandtheretro chosen thoughtfully for Kamchatka crab ormonkfish.There’s a thisistheplacetocome for itsseafood, h Nkr95-135, mainsNkr210-255,4-/6-coursemenu Nkr485/580; andlutefisk wolf-fish (dried whitefish). time tomaster theartof cookingreindeer, simple buthearty local food. toilet, butit’snonethelessagood placefor & dinner) soup &mainsNkr69-169,children’s menuNkr35-89; out. comes on andAlmaheadshome,thesnacksmenu to Alma,the‘goddess chef’. As wears thenight andit’salwaysobligatory topayhomagetag lamb andlocalfishbutwithouttheusualprice of reindeer, elk, terrific. large Expect servings is informalambience,Pingvinen delightfully to small-townNorwegiancookingandwitha Vaskerelven 14;mainsNkr63-135; and there are goodchoices for vegetarians. food. It’sagreat placeatanytimeof theday its walls,adowntempo organic vibeandtasty very coolplacehascontemporary artadorning from Nkr86,saladNkr112; Pygmalion Økocafé Norwegian Sol Brød Godt Brød Korskirkealmenning 4; ciabatta Nkr69-87, organic pancakes 4;ciabattaNkr69-87,organicpancakes Korskirkealmenning & dinner) Bryggen Tracteursted o Wesselstuen Boha &Stuene Bryggeloftet Lido Therichly evokes decorated Wesselstuen 4-10pm Mon-Thu, 5-11pmSat) 4-11pmFri, 7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4.30pm 7am-6pm Mon-Fri, Sat) h

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00 60; eeyhn’ good. everything’s scallops andscampisymphony(Nkr295)but and old-styleelegance. Weparticularlylike the excellence, thisplaceisallabout qualityfood Knownbylocalsforitsunimpeachable setting. inarusticBryggen delicious fish andseafood The popular,upmarket Enhjørningen offers dinner Nkr490/550; Nkr95-135,mains Nkr275-310, 3-/4-course Bryggen; starters atmosphere isthe major drawcard. Thefood’sgood,butthe Norwegian tapas. of (Nkr125)andaselection steamed mussels fishsoup(Nkr98), this finerestaurant does onlyextant Bergen’s Bryggen buildingallowedtohave afire) and floor, which meantthatitwastheonly kitc the formerstables, ina1708buildingthatranges across Housed of thegreat experiences. Bryggen eating Nkr225-275; lonelyplanet.com all that sashimi and lovelyall thatsashimi outdoor tables. tive range of noodledishes tocomplement Sumo isanother good sushi barwithacrea- sushi fromNkr59,mains Nkr149-225; as linguiniorsesame tuna salad. plentifullunch dishes such vibe andserves canningfactory, ithasanartsy old sardine to aculturalcentrewarm. Attached inan a mealorjustdrinkwhenthe weather’s outdoor terrace isoneof thebestplacesfor hubbub of thisagreeable downtownBergen, mains Nkr89-141; and Vietnamese serving Thai dishes. bar. Upstairs isamore formalrestaurant newestandmostcelebratedat Bergen’s sushi ish surroundsmake foragreat combination h fromNkr56,sushicombo Nkr270; sashimi fromNkr47,makis Sun Red Sushi &International century Bryggen. architecturedishes withtheevocative of 18th- rant combinesflavoursome traditionallocal Hanseatiske Hotel, restau- thishigh-class h Sat, 4-10pm Sun) gate 20;Swedish mainsNkr88-194; Finnegårdsgaten 2;3-/5-/7-coursedinnerNkr595/695/795; o Naboen Sumo o Finnegaards Stuene lunch &dinner) 6-11pm Mon-Sat)

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such asSwedish meatballsorthefilletof is bestknownforitsSwedishspecialities, range of Norwegiandisheshere, Naboen Fri, 1pm-midnightSat) Fri, salmenning 21;tapasNkr56-98; a thriving café culture. clientele alsohas isawayonholiday. Bergen be quieter thinkasthemain thanyoumight can the mainlystudent places,summernights places southwest of Øvre Ole Bulls plass;in crowd hangoutin and adiscerningBergen (with tourist-oriented prices)whilestudents area iswhere you’llfindtourist-oriented bars there’s nohard-and-fast rule,theBryggen isagreatBergen placetogo out.Although food is excellent. aretables lovely onafineafternoon andthe style withafriendlyatmosphere. Theoutdoor Spanish-inspired restaurant-bar hasoodlesof noon-2amSat) 2pm-2am Fri, 18; tapasNkr39-79,mainsNkr174-228; recommended. Highly towhatyou’llgetfind inBergen inSpain. are you’ll and thetapas andtheclosest tasty happy tomake suggestions onwineselection o Tapas at very reasonable prices. food upauthentic Italian terrace andserves ish indoors, niceandbreezy outsideonthe dinner) traditions. Norwegian come forMediterranean foodwithanodto of placewhere youngprofessionals Bergen’s an upmarket feel andit’sthesort brasserie Mon-Sat Sep-May) h 3; 2-courselunchmenuNkr113-179,mainsNkr210-295; (Nkr194). hare underground rooms thatdate from the16th Altona Vinbar isinanintimate warren of & Sat) Sundtsgate 22; o Bars &Wine Escalon. Thefriendlyyoungwaiters are itbetter thanby stormandno-onedoes 3; lunchspecialsNkr59-139,mainsNkr129-279; DRINKING Bar Celona Stragiotti Bocca 7am-5pm Sun-Fri, 7am-4pmSatJun-Aug, 7am-4pm7am-5pm Sun-Fri, Possibly ourfavourite winebar intown, This revamped Italian restaurant Thisrevamped Italian isstyl-

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SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS the moving.night or soft funk.Upstairs isafineplacetokeep be rock,butismore likely tobeelectronica retroplace does décorandmusicthatcould the beststudentbars thislaid-back inBergen, h with theimpossibly low connecting doors! this place. Ifyou’ve hadafew take care glasses, out conversation, it’shardtofindfaultwith ranges drowns fromjazztorock butnever tional wines,soft andmusicthat lighting century. Withahuge of selection interna- 206 crowd whoflock tothe openbalcony, or snug- name,Bocca draws achicsame 30-something 3.30am) bars on this street. getsnicular station, aclassiercrowdthan most centre, this trendy winebar,nextto thefu- If you’re keen not tomove too farfromthe salmenning 19; bars in Bergen. Finckenthe roadfromLegal, isoneof few gay 8pm-2.30amSat) Wed &Thu,7pm-2.30amFri, To GlassVinbar Legal Fincken Bocca from Finse ( p190 ) andridingdowntoFlåmfromFinse (seetheboxed text p189 Best thingstodofromBergen? ). (see p202 fordetailsoneach). Favourite Bergen festivals Best placeforacoffee? ( below ), Pingvinen ( below Favourite ( ), KafeKippers placestogooutatnight? below ) andEscalon( p205 Best localtip? ) where Iwork. because itnormallyrainssomuch. everyone isoutdoors,wegetvisitorswhoaskuswhatwe’re celebratingwhenwe’re justoutdoors What makesyoulaughabouttourists inBergen? the 1980s. Itwasquite ugly,butpeoplehave moved backintothecitycentre. proud ofit,buttheyalmosttore itdowninthe1970s…Youshouldhave seen Bergen backin always beenavery international city.Tourismhelpedtosave Bryggenandpeoplenoware very Does itannoyyouthatyourcitygetsoverrun withsomanytourists? not fromNorway,we’re fromBergen. We’re alsovery talkative. What are peoplefromBergen like? for acityofitssize, Bergen hasavarietyofinteresting culturalexpressions. many thingsthatwere ordocumentaryfilmcamefromhere; newinNorwegian musicandshort everything youneed.It’salsoavery culturalcityandwiththeBergen Wave afew yearsago, What’s thebestthingaboutlivinginBergen? student. How longhave youlived inBergen? LOCAL VOICE:ESPENOLSEN 2pm-1.30am Sun-Thu, &Sat) 2pm-2.30amFri EGN • rnig BERGEN ••Drinking Upstairs from therestaurant of the

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61 00; www.grieghallen.no; Edvard Griegs plass) EdvardGriegs 61 00;www.grieghallen.no; group performs traditional one-hour music and group performstraditional one-hourmusicand Nkr100/free; office. tourist ing at10.30pm;tickets atthe canbebought ticket holders atFestplassen at7pm,return- to beNorwegian.Fana Folklore pick up buses healthy proportionof thespectators islikely it’s tourist-oriented, butit’swelldoneanda church theobscurity.Yes, maycutthrough sive, this folklore showintheFana stave finding traditionalNorwegianculture elu- Nkr350; inclbusride tickets Fana Folklore Folklore exhibitions is Norwegian). (in ing concerts,check outwww.bergenlive.no other modernmusicconcerts.Forupcom- September to May. cal concertsat ( Hotel Terminus ( p204 ) at 9pm. Bergen CardNkr140/180) until late August, hour before time. starting Frommid-June from outsidethetouristoffice, leaving one venue. There are totheconcerts free buses Tickets are oratthe soldbythetouristoffice thetouristoffice. andschedules, contact tails in theparkadjacenttoHåkonshallen. Forde- h &Oct) Jun–Aug &SunSep with/without BergenCardNkr160/220; air venues such as of theconcertstake open- placeatevocative son, composer Edvard Grieg(see p50 ). Most favouriteperformances focusingonBergen’s summer,manyofthroughout themclassical hasabusyprogramme ofBergen concerts Concerts Funky! Calibar is hip in all the right places is hip inall theright Funky! Calibar 1; Calibar Nightclubs &LiveMusic ist office orat the door. (see p195 ). Tickets are available from thetour- dance routinesin the atmosphericSchøtstuene .no; Georgenes Verft 12) Verft .no; Georgenes % h Another placetowatch outforconcertsand alsohostsmajorGrieghallen rockand The renowned Bergen Folklore Bergen 3pm Sunmid-April–mid-May) 55 216150;www.filharmonien.no) 3pm-1am Mon-Thu, noon-3am Sat) 3pm-3am Fri, (Map (Map p196 ; www.calibar.no inNorwegian; Vaskerelven h

Mp p194; (Map 9pm Tue mid-Jun–mid-Aug) USF Vertfet

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SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS 208 h Many of theshopsalongBryggen are devoted SHOPPING least 24to get in. asapopulardisco.serves Youhave tobeat is forlive music, withanextravenue that while Rick’s,downstairs andopenfrom 10pm, charge Nkr90; in early November. holidays. Italsohostsaheavy-metal festival when manyof on studentsheadoff Bergen’s bomb shelter. duringsummer Sadly,itcloses ‘cave’ andthevenue isactuallyaconverted the classicstages forindierock.Hulenmeans rock clubinnorthernEuropeandit’soneof Goingstrongsince1968,it’stheoldest status. Jun) Norwegian; OlafRyesvei48; scene. music onthelocal youstraight andhe’llset Rain) legend (heonceplayedinthegroupElectric ask forDennis,who’ssomethingof alocal to thecavernous Ifhe’saround, basement. Norwegian andinternational actsdrawn this isarockvenue atheartwithwell-known playliveEurope. jazzandacoustic,but Itdoes mythical qualityformusiclovers across for a cocktail. have tobe24get inandready topayNkr96 drawn by’80smusicitcansingalongto. You fora30-somethingcrowd sweaty nightclub is caféandconversation, butdownstairs isa to have Upstairs theoldestfloorinBergen). chic modernstylewithretro flair(itclaims with anddécorthatfuses stunning lighting .kvams-flisespikkeri.com; Bredsgården, Bryggen; .kvams-flisespikkeri.com; wastes of the north. ‘Tundra’ collectionstrongly evokes theicy aboveshop high theArcticCircle ( p365 ). Her jewellery crafted byRegineJuhls atherwork- exquisitewonderful jewellery shop silver sells &1-7pmSatSun rest-of-year) Aug, 9am-6pmMon-Fri [email protected]; Bryggen 39; you knowwhere to look. if trolls, butthere’s quality stuff somehigher to hideousfridge slicers magnets,cheese and and caféwithoccasionallyoutrageous décor, street ‘Silver’ level, isasuperstylish winebar There’s atRick’s.At somethingforeveryone Kvams Flisespikkeri Rick’s Hulen Garage Juhls’ Silver Gallery Juhls’ Silver Like Garage, Hulenenjoysalegendary 3pm-3.30am) EGN • hpig BERGEN ••Shopping

Mp p196; (Map

Mp p196; (Map Mp p196; (Map h Garage hastaken onanalmost 1pm-3am Sun-Thu, &Sat) 1pm-3.30amFri % % %

Mp p196; (Map Mp p196 ; (Map h 55 3131;www.hulen.noin h 55 3131;Veiten 3;cover 55 32 19 80; Christies gate14; 55 321980;Christies 9pm-3am Thu-SatSep–mid- 9am-10pm mid-May–mid- % % 55 327820; www 55 324740;juhls h This 9am-

with everything fromjacketswith everything tobagsand thesoftestplace sells leatheralong moose in thelanestucked awayinBryggen, this Sat) 3; to Trondheim (fromNkr560), Kristiansand six times daily.There are alsodirect flights .no) tre. Flesland, about19kmsouthwest of thecen- Bergen Air GETTING THERE &AWAY the post office. enormous H&M, aswellasupermarket and 3; the BodyShop, while to five floors fromBenetton witheverything 8; in thecentre of town. photo and video needs. camera store istheplacetocomeforallyour 9am-7pmThu,9am-3pmSat) Fri, .no inNorwegian;Nygaten9; and traditional clothing. of a broadselection handicrafts,woodentoys typically Norwegiansouvenirs, Husfliden sells vivid colours and beautiful clothes. rytelling weaving, through Oleanaisallabout folk costumesandawholephilosophyof sto- 6pm Sun) 2A; Strandkaien make, butthequality is unquestionable. Nkr25,000) andtheycantake twomonths to city. Theydon’tcomecheap at (pricesstart very muchseem athomeinthismostmusical hand-crafts top-notch acousticguitars that 11am-2pmSat) Mon-Fri, knick-knacks. other rest-of-year) Bryggen; a theme.Bergen available uptooriginalartworks.Mosthave Bryggen gallery,witharange of cheaper prints artworks byKetil Kvam adornthislovely Sat rest-of-year) &noon-4pm 11am-3pm Mon-Fri 6pm mid-May–mid-Sep, kiehl.com inNorwegian; KongOscarsgate45; kiehl.com h h h Bergen hastwostylishshoppingcentresBergen Oleana Læverkstedet Foto Video Husfliden Gitarmaker Ifyou’re lookingfortheless creative but connects (fromNkr265) andBergen SAS Braathens 9am-4.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9am-7pm Thu, 9am-3pm 9am-7pmThu,9am-3pm 9am-4.30pm Mon-Wed&Fri, 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat) 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat) 9am-8pm Mon-Fri,

Withtextiles inspired bytraditional airport h

Oneof themostpopular shops Mp p196; (Map

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Mp p196; (Map

Mp p196 ; (Map

(Map p196; (Map 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat,noon- 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, (Map p194 ; p194 ; (Map

( TheengagingHanno Kiehl % % % % 81 520000; www.sasbraathens 55 310520;www.oleana.no; % Galleriet % 55 31 78 70; Vågsalmenningen 55 317870;Vågsalmenningen Xhibition h 55 316215;www.fotovideo % 55 310701;www.hanno Thisprofessional 55 314573;Jacobsfjorden, 9am-5pm Mon-Wed& 55 998000) lonelyplanet.com

is hometoan (Torgalmenningen (Torgalmenningen (Småstrandgaten spreads over h 11am-6pm isat .no; Nkr285; way/return Nkr620/710,fourhours) from (Nkr640, five hours) andStavanger (one hours), Måløy (Nkr595,4½hours), Selje (Nkr410, fourhours), Flåm(Nkr552,5½ at Skoltegrunnskaien (Map p196 ), northwest details. for of theuniversity, at8pmdaily.See p412 the Frieleneskaien(Map p196 ), tothesouth the Strandkaiterminal (Map p196 ). .fylkesbaatane.no) There are daily Boat see to/from Bergen, p403 . Nkr520). (from Nkr560)aswellStavanger (from lonelyplanet.com Fåsaa railway. Flåmsbana (Nkr232, 2¼hours) for connectionsfor the or two;four of runto/from Myrdal these Voss (Nkr153, onehour) leave hour every and Bergen Norway. Localtrainsbetween hours, five the heart of daily) runsthrough and Oslo (Nkr299to Nkr728, 6½toeight Bergen trainjourneybetween The spectacular Train 10½hr 14¼hr Nkr751 Trondheim 2 Nkr610 Stryn 3 12hr 5¾hr daily Stavanger 8 Nkr420 1to2daily Nkr625 Oslo 3 daily Nkr451 1 Kristiansand daily Duration Ålesund daily Cost Destination Departures daily Nkr700 6½hr destinations: see below onNor-Way fordetails Bussekspress Monday, Thursday andFriday).Otherwise, 11½hr toOslo (Nkr349, twoonSaturday, services inNorwegian) (www.lavprisekspressen.no The cheapest are buses with Bus Strandkaiterminal. of Saturday andSunday.Itleaves just northwest daily fromMondaytoFridayandonceon ( toRosendal boats fromBergen p220 ) twice on international sailings. of tower. theRosenkrantz See p408 fordetails Nkr490). toHaugesundalso hasadailyflight (from For informationoninternational flights Rødne FjordCruise International ferries dock to/fromBergen The Hurtigrutenferry coastal leaves from Coast Air h May-Aug) express boatstoBalestrand Fylkesbåtane VOSS••Information

( %

( hassummerexpress % 81 544442;www.coastair.no) 51 895270;www.rodne

( % Lavprisekspressen , which runs 55 907070;www

internet access. 10am-7pm Thu,10am-2pmSat)Free, time-limited & Fri, between Bergen and the fjords. It does have Itdoes a andthefjords. Bergen between Vossis littlemore post else, thanastaging Foreveryone thing youcando from aparasail. rafting, bungee jumping andjustabout any- drawn here ifyoulove thethrillof white-water as Norway’sadventure andyou’llbe capital Voss hasbuiltaworld-renowned reputation pop 13,786 VOSS turn adultNkr40/50,childNkr25/35; Harbour Ferry From late May tolate August,the Boat the bus terminal. indoor carparkisthe24-hourBygarasjenat The largest andcheapest (Nkr75per24hours) allowuptoninehours (free atnight). 30 minutes or twohours; theparkingareas at In busyareas, metered parkingislimited to Car &Motorcycle and the bus terminal. travelled. Free Bryggen bus100runsbetween yond thecentre are onthedistance based City buses Bus per day/weekNkr200/700,bag/helmet Nkr40/50). fromNkr300,mountainbike Kong Oscarsgate81;perweekend shop of You canhire cyclesfromthe downstairs work- Bicycle fice (adult/child Nkr75/free, 45mins). main busterminal andopposite thetouristof- the airport,Radis bussen.no) Flesland by airport isserviced To/From TheAirport GETTING AROUND Bibliothek INFORMATION largely modern and undistinguished. during WWIImeans thatthearchitecture is pretty bombing lakeside butGerman setting, Bre Aquarium). Bergen ket andTollbodhopenatNordnes(nearthe 10am to6pm) , which runs four times hourly between , which runsfourtimeshourlybetween Sykkelbutikken

( ( % runs between theTorget runsbetween fishmar- %

Mp p196; (Map 177) 56 519470; costNkr20,whilefares be- son SAS Royal Hotel, the son SASRoyalHotel, the

% Mp p196; (Map h 55 560400;oneway/re- 10am-4pm Mon-Wed h Flybussen every 30minsfrom every % 55 361880; (www.fly Vågen

209

SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS Tourist office Tourist Playcom Voss 210 remain, the Lutheran of 1536 andunique wooden spireoriginal stone altar here the inthemid-13th century.Although ple. AGothic-stylestone church wasbuilt occupies the site of anancientpagan tem- hrsrest-of-year) 10am-2pm Sat,2-4pmSun Jun-Aug, shorter adult/childNkr15/free; .net; Uttrågata; Voss’ stone Vangskyrkja &St Olav’sCross 10pm Sun)Internet access. Nkr40; gata 9; Sun Jun-Aug,8.30am-3.30pm Sep-May) SIGHTS 4 1 3 2 VOSS 16 (102km) To Bergen OS • ihs VOSS ••Sights h SLEEPING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION INFORMATION Fleischer's Hotel...... Fleischer's Appartement...... Voss RaftingSenter...... Vangskyrkja...... St Olav'sCross...... Nordic Ventures...... Mølstertunet Museum...... Car)...... Hangursbahnen (MtHangurCable Ekstreme VossBooking...... Dagestadmuséet...... Tourist Office...... Playcom Voss...... Bibliothek...... h 9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat,11am- 9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pmSat&noon-7pm 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, To MtHangur(750m) AC ( ( 6

church Gullfjordungsvegen % %

Ullestadvegen Evangervegen Sivlevegen 12 56 520800;www.visitvoss.no; Uttrå- 56 516303;Vangsgata 36;perhr

( % 13 56 513880;www.voss.kyrkjer 13 13 12 12 11 11 10 10 9 9 8 8 7 7 6 6 5 5 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1 Station Train ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 A2 A2 B2 C2 C2 B2 B1 A1 B2 D4 h 22 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, Pentagon...... (see 14) Jarl Hotell...... Vangen Café...... Ringheim Kafé...... Indremisjonkaféen...... Stasjonen...... (see14) Dolly Dimple's...... Voss Vandrerhjem...... Voss Camping...... Park HotelVossevangen...... Voss Aktivitetsbooking...... (see14) Bus Station...... TRANSPORT TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT EATING EATING Elyseé Restaurant&Café 7 11 B 8

Sivlevegen

14 Osavegen

Lekvebakken

5 10

Reserve The Prestegardsmoen knows where to find it. meanthetouristoffice athand,doesn’t close conversion it’s to Christianity.Justbecause (St Olav) in1023tocommemorate thelocal erected byKingOlav Haraldsson denHeilige aweatheredtourist office stands Voss in 1940. bombingof German tion duringtheintense Miraculously, thebuildingescaped destruc- the 900thanniversary of inVoss. Christianity workcommemoratesThe 1923stained-glass theremovalsaw of manyoriginalfeatures.

22 22 21 21 20 20 19 19 18 18 17 17 16 16 15 15 14 Prestegardsalléen In afieldaround 150msoutheastof the 1 Vangsgata Lekvebakken B2 B2 D2 D2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 A2 A2 C3 C3 B2 B2 3

19 Prestegardsmoen Recreational and Nature and Nature Recreational Prestegardsmoen Skulegata

Uttrågata

Miltzowgata , which extends south from Voss 9 Tjønavegen Rognsbakken

2 15 Hestavbakkvegen ὈὈ ὈὈ 20 0.3miles 500m 0 0 Prestergardsmoen & NatureReserve Pedestrian 18 Recreational Bridge 17

1941 Gymnasvegen Idrottsvegen Lundarvegen Stalheim (35km);Gudvangen(45km)

Strandavegen Nesheimstunet Museum(16km); Vosso 21

Gjernesvegen Oppheim Vicarage(26km); Tvinde Camping(12km); lonelyplanet.com Engjaland Gard(20km) 4 Vossabakken Elvegata D To Bavallen(5km); VossFjellheist& To Bordalsgjelet stone cross

Gjernesvegen Flåm (67km);

(200m) Borda

Nyresvegen Movegen lsvegen

tours onthehour, hour.every gion dates from1600to1870.There are guided noon-3pm Sunrest-of-year) h ( (Voss Folkemuseum) isthe The mainportionof theVoss FolkMuseum Voss FolkMuseum ing mountains. ramic viewsover thetownandsurround- Hangur, above high Voss, forstunningpano- This Hangursbahnen of plantsand124 bird species. elm, birch andpineforests with140species of isaseries Camping, hiking tracksthrough lonelyplanet.com to Gudvangen. thegroundsare Although and 26kmfromVossrespectively, alongE16 the oldwooden the oldestdatingbackto1688)inTvinne and the historic farmbuildingsoncetypicalof there- aboveMølster high Voss. Thecollectionof 16 h % The othertwoportionsof themuseum, paragliding andbasejumping)withlocal andinternational musicacts. .ekstremsportveko.com) so thaninlate converge Junewhenadrenaline junkies onVossfor scapes, Vossmaybeyourantidote. This townlives andbreathes never more extreme sports, aprettyIf slowboatsupthefjordsseemlike tameresponse Norwegian toextraordinary land- EXTREME SPORTS INVOSS 51 0525;www.vossrafting.no) brave. Even ifyou’re not,pretend tobe. cantell No-one thedifference.’ and even 180m-high,115km/hbungeejumps fromaparasail(Nkr1600)!As itsmottosays:‘Be inNorway, offeringcentres ofitskind tandemparagliding flights(Nkr1200),parasailing(Nkr450) Nkr575) to one-/two-/three-day tours(Nkr895/1895/2595) on thestunningNærøyfjord ( Nkr575) to one-/two-/three-day p237 ). motto is: ‘We guarantee towetyour pants’. andVosso(Class its II).Not tobeoutdonein the mottostakes, (Class Raundalen IIItoV) to IV), Rafters andriverboarders canchoosebetween three very different rivers: theStranda(Class III abseiling(from Nkr800)andriverboarding (Nkr800).per family),orcanyoning (Nkr700)towaterfall If you’re totheair,you don’tneedtobeleftbehind. unabletotake Watersports Nordic Ventures Jumping Bungee & Parasailing Paragliding, 5pm Mon-Thu &SatMay-Sep) &Sun,10am-8pmFri Vossevangen. 10am-5pm daily mid-May–mid-Sep, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pmMon-Fri, 10am-5pm dailymid-May–mid-Sep, 11am-5pm Jun-early Sep) 11am-5pm Jun-early Nesheimstunet Museum 56 51 15 11; Mølstervegen 143;adult/childNkr45/free; 56 511511;Mølstervegen Nordic Ventures alsoruns sea- expeditions, ranging tours(fourto five fromlake hours, kayaking For bookings, contact contact For bookings, cable car

( % VOSS••Activities Oppheim vicarage 56 530220;adult/childNkr90/55;

( % , on a hilltop at the farm , onahilltopatthefarm , aweek-long festival (skydiving, thatcombinesallmannerofextreme sports 56 51 00 17; www.nordicventures.com; 56 510017;www.nordicventures.com; whisksyoutoMt (12farmbuildings, haseverything from white-water rafting(Nkr450toNkr750,orNkr1600 Ekstreme VossBooking Mølstertunet Museum Museum Mølstertunet , lie16km . You’llfinditinthecarparkof Park Hotel

weekend accommodation for Nkr2500. from Julytolate August.Italsohasfull-board Stølsheimen mountains 20kmnorthof Voss hikingand ises horse ridinginthebeautiful .vossfjellhest.no; Engjaland;3hr/fulldayNkr500/900) (1-day/3-day/season Nkr50/75/250) ofdetails cycling routes andsells ing VossonSaturdays.Itcanalsoprovide (www.vossafjell.no) ist office arranges guided thetour-From late Junetomid-September, ACTIVITIES It’s anunusualand worthwhile exhibit. furniture, aswellworksbyhiswife, Helena. drawingsandtraditionalwooden of carvings, Dagestad (1865–1957)andfeatures hislifetime 1950 by Magnusrenowned localwoodcarver south of thetowncentre, wasopenedin Nkr40/free/30; in Norwegian;Helgavangen52;adult/child/studentorsenior This Dagestadmuséet to ring ahead. insidethebuildingsyou’llneed open, tosee ( % Voss Fjellhest&EngjalandGard h 56 513630;www.ekstremevoss.com; museum Apr–mid-Oct) Apr–mid-Oct) h

( % 11am-2pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug) into the mountains surround- into themountains Voss Rafting Senter 56 516533;www.dagestadmuseet.no Extremesport Week is oneofthebestactivity half- orfull-dayhikes .

( % fishing permits 56 519166;www h

(

% , 1.5km 10am- (www organ- 56 211

SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS Prestegardsalléen 40;tent/caravansites fromNkr140/190, 9 88. 94 held in March. SLEEPING heads. sheep festivals. pass Nkr850) Blues &RootsFestival p211. text, For Voss’ FESTIVALS ets costfromNkr300/250 per adult/child. ( p216 abus-ferry) through combination;tick- NSB office, anytravel agency, ordirectly through 6½ to8½hours). thetourist Bookthrough the busbacktoVoss(adult/child Nkr530/265, from there toFlåm,theboatGudvangen and It involves railtripsfromVosstoMyrdaland alsoworksasadaytourfrom or Bergen, Voss. boxed text p201),normallydonefromOslo The famous‘NorwayinaNutshell’ tour(see weather andsnowconditions,call also findexcellentcross-countryskiing.For Valleyup theRaundalen atMjølfjell, you’ll downhill competitions.Ontheplateau and of thecentre, forinternational which isused with vehicles canoptforBavallen, 5km north ( p211 ) where there’s awinter skischool. Those onthecable-carroute upMtHangurfocuses early DecemberuntilApril.Thewinter action 212 2 minutes). 20 access isonthe Voss–Gudvangen bus (Nkr35, about 12km northof town. Withoutacar, this scenic alternative liesbesideawaterfall If youdon’t mindbeing a bitoutof town, Tvinde; tentsitesperpersonfromNkr110,cabins fromNkr375) cabins fromNkr500; Voss Camping the location’s a winner. cilities. Itcanget abitrowdyin summerbut hasbasicfa- centrally located VossCamping volves ofexploring theculinarydelights day excursions toUlvik( p215 ) andEidfjord Festival .no in Norwegian; Fri/Sat daypassfromNkr400/500,festival .no inNorwegian;Fri/Sat TOURS Tvinde Camping The late-September On thelastweekend of August,the The The tourist office alsoorganisesThe touristoffice 6½-hour ( % OS • or VOSS ••Tours

ski season ski 56 528007) (www.smalahovesleppet.no inNorwegian) (www.smalahovesleppet.no Vossajazz isoneof Norway’s better music Extreme Sports Festival Sports Extreme

( % h inVossusuallylastsfrom atthe train station.

56 511597;www.vosscamping.no;

(www.vossajazz.no inNorwegian) ( Easter-Sep) %

( % 56 51 69 19; www.tvinde.no; 56 516919;www.tvinde.no; 56 516303;www.vossblues Sheep’s HeadFood Thelakeside and , see theboxed, see % 56 51 in- Voss is

.parkvoss.no; Uttrågata 1;s/dfromNkr825/1100; Uttrågata .parkvoss.no; mention pleasant mention pleasant outdoor tables. Vangsgata 32; mainsNkr89-199; varied menu atthe and reindeer roast,try 9.30am-3pm Sat,noon-6pm Sun) Indremisjonskaféen menus. set larly extensive winelist.The Elyséealsodoes and international cuisineandhasaparticu- finest restaurant inFrench inVossspecialises 1;mains Nkr130-275; Uttrågata 30 different pizzas. Sat, 1-10pmSun) 259; and a bar.salad themed café,which offers meals snacks,light In thePark isthistrain- Hotel Vossevangen 175; Stasjonen Café EATING celebrity hotel stays. hereEdvard Griegstayed in1901ifyou’re into place intown.Someroomshave lake views. in 1888,oozes antiquecharm andisthebest acter, thebeautifulFleischer’s Hotel, opened Pass Nkr830/1230; s/dNkr1195/1550,withFjord .fleischers.no; Evangervegen; Vossevangen. lake very andmanyoverlook comfortable the Hotel, themodernroomsare nonetheless While thisplacelackstheeleganceof Fleischer’s small butadequate units. self-catering This lakeside annexe of Fleischer’s Hotel offers 13;2-/4-bedaptNkr990/1580; .no; Evangervegen hired here andthere’s a free sauna. andkayakscanbe side room.Bicycles,canoes and finelake views;askforatop-floor, lake- modern Vosshostel offers roomswithensuite Nkr85) andmaindishes (from Nkr179). meals(from (Nkr110), light buffet with asalad .com; Evangervegen 68;dm/s/dfromNkr150/455/590) .com; Evangervegen from Nkr130; 10.30am-4pm Sat,12.30-6pmSun) 05; Vangsgata 42;dishesNkr49-115; snacks &lightmealsNkr35-99; Traditional Norwegian food is served at Traditional Norwegian foodisserved o restaurant Fleischer’s Hotel o Vossevangen Park Hotel Fleischer’s Appartement Dolly Dimple’s Voss Vandrerhjem h h lunch &dinner) 9.30am-midnight Sun-Thu, &Sat) 9.30am-1amFri Elysée h Fleischer’s Hotel Dolly Dimple’s serves more than DollyDimple’sserves

( 2-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-11pm 2-11pmFri, % pis

( ( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % % 56 53 10 17; Uttrågata 1;dishesNkr35- 56 531017;Uttrågata This restaurant is excellent, Thisrestaurant isexcellent,

Ringheim Kafé Ringheim 56 531009;Park HotelVossevangen; ( ( 56 510040;Vangsgata 52;pizzas % %

( 56 512017;www.vosshostel 51 561408;Vangsgata 46; % Vangen Café h )

h

h (Evangervegen; mealsNkr85- (Evangervegen; Forhistoricchar-

. Forcakes, snacks . You’llfind amore ( 56 520500;www.fleischers ( % lunch & dinner) h % 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, lunch &dinner) 56 531000;www 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 56 520500;www

( %

pis ( % 56 511365; pi , not to 56 5112 The The ) )

line downtoFlåm (see p234 ). at Myrdal(Nkr94,50minutes) withthescenic to Nkr633,5½sixhours, five daily)connect (Nkr153, onehour,hourly)andOslo (Nkr199 renowned hours), viaGudvangen and Flåm. (Nkr150, twohours) andAurland(Nkr130,1½ connectVosswithBergen Frequent busservices westof stopatthetrainstation, thecentre.Buses GETTING THERE&AWAY house and techno. disco thatattractsthe18-to-25crowdwith the popular Pentagon weekend disco. Thepubin andthesomewhatmorelight, energetic and wholikehas apianobar,forthose theirmusic Vossevangen Park Hotel ENTERTAINMENT lonelyplanet.com up through two tunnelsfromthevalleyfloor, up through waterfalls. amodernroadwinds Although flanked andSivle bythethunderingStalheim gorge, theStalheimskleiva valley andthrough changed tofresh after horses climbingupthe and theirwearysteeds rested and inStalheim horses andcarriages in1780.Themailmen (Oslo) Aroadwasbuilt for andBergen. Mail route Copenhagen, between Christiania stopping-off pointfortravellers ontheRoyal is anextraordinary place. This gorgeous above littlespothigh thevalley Stalheim AROUND VOSS day fromthe Voss Vandrerhjem (p212). orforNkr150/250perhalf/full Vossevangen, &Sat) Thu &Sun,10am-8pmFri day from Bicycle hire isavailable foraroundNkr250per GETTING AROUND The Between 1647and 1909, Between wasa Stalheim Norway’s most beautiful walks. Ask directions from thereception of theStalheim Hotel. heredon’t even after think ofwalking rain.As longas youdon’tsuffer it’s oneof fromvertigo, andwithnothing betweenyou andthevalleyfloor farbelow;cliff wallextremely narrow inparts although the route there (two hoursreturn) isnotforthe faint-hearted with thepathbeneath the cows, foursheepand 11goats,itwasoccupieduntil1930. Nowovergrown, it’sanevocative spot, Nærøydalen, mayjust wintheprize. Builtin1870whenthefirst cotter moved there withtwo Husmannsplassen Nåli Norwegians may seemtodelightinbuildingtheirhomes inthemostinaccessibleplaces, but A WALKALONGTHE PRECIPICE Jarl Hotell NSB Voss Aktivitetsbooking ( % Bergensbanen

( % 56 528000) VOSS••AroundVoss 56 511933;Elvegata9)

( % ,

beside thePark Hotel rail services on the onthe railservices (theCotter’s Farm ofNåli),alongthe ledge fromStalheimhighabove 56 53 10 00; Uttrågata 1) 56 531000;Uttrågata to/fromBergen

( h 10am-5pm Mon- hasacellar

01 22;www.stalheim.com;s/dNkr900/1380,half-board Stalheim; adult/childNkr50/free; is thejunctionof theOslo–Bergen railway townsof VossandFinse, Between Myrdal to make the short detour. road unlessyoucanpersuade thebusdriver may have tohike 1.3kmupfromthe main the townsof Gudvangen/Aurland, butyou hour, fourto11daily),take anybustowards d fromNkr700) Stalheimsøy Gard in thevillage justbeyondthehotel, while ( are logcabinsat area.ing intheStalheim Insummer,there ask atthehotel for details. only opensifthere are 10ormore visitors; buildings laidoutasatraditionalfarm.It the hotel, includesfolkexhibitsand30log breathtaking viewsdown Nærøydalen. race and you payhalf- full-board rates. are available andmealsworkoutcheaper if costNkr250/335,butlighter mealsbuffets without aviewcostthesame.Lunch/dinner the windowtonotice. Unfortunately, rooms scarcely beable totear yourself awayfrom are butyou’ll spaciousandcomfortable, Nast’s 324 inparticular)oncefeatured in sited hotel. Notsurprisingly,thehotel (room Oct) Nkr1195/1860, full-boardNkr1335/2140; at anastonishing 18% gradient. along theE16fromGudvangen) climbsup the Myrdal % To reach fromVoss (Nkr56,one Stalheim There are twootheroptionsforsleep- The At thetopis If you’re atthehotel, notstaying the , arguably Norway’smostspectacularly

old mailroad 56 512847;www.stalheim.no;cabinsfromNkr550) (admission free; ‘bestrooms-with-a-view’. Therooms Stalheim Folkemuseum isdowninthevalley far below.

(marked as‘Stalheimskleiva’ ( % h Stalheim FjordogFjellhytter 56 520022;www.stalheimsoy.no; 9.30am-6pm mid-May–Sep) Stalheim Hotel h on request)

h ( % mid-May–early mid-May–early 56 520122;

( % Conde , near 56 52 has 213 ter-

SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS May-end Aug) May-end does offer thechancedoes towalkbehindthe butitIt’s afarcryfromNorway’shighest, is thepicturesque easily catch inNorheimsund as Bergen. tours ( from Bergen p201 ) thatyoucanjustas ‘Explore Hardangerfjord’ train-bus-and-boat Fjord Tours Sun mid-May–Aug) .visitkvam.no; introduction to what pleasant lies ahead. picturesque townnonethelessandmakes for a network,butit’sa places furtherintothefjord to Hardangerfjord. There are more beautiful Quiet little asthegateway Norheimsund serves pop 3500 NORHEIMSUND information as well. hasplentyofwww.hardangerfjord.com useful theboxed see from Bergen, text, p201 , while edge. of Fordetails exploringHardangerfjord of thesmallvillages thatclingtothewater’s overnightmits, don’tneglecttostay inone Voss makes afine alternative and,iftimeper- whilethehigh-energy townoffrom Bergen, Many peoplevisit Ulvik, UtneandKinsarvik. ourpickwouldprobably beEidfjord, although country. There are manybeautifulcorners, Hardangerfjord isclassicNorwegianfjord of centralNorway’sHardangervidda Plateau, Running fromtheAtlantictosteepwall HARDANGERFJORD more information, see p234 . anarm of For Aurlandsfjorden, Sognefjorden. Flåmsbana linetwists20kmdowntoFlåmon in aNutshell’ tour. Fromhere, thedramatic way; it’salsoafamousstoponthe‘Norway steep Flåmsbanarail- and thespectacularly 214 kvamnet.no; tent sitesNkr130, cabins fromNkr450) kvamnet.no; cutter. restored offers ina on thefjord two-hour cruises hand atbuilding aboat.It sometimesalso and exhibitions; children canalsotrytheir boats, restoration procedures, rope-making vern.no; adult/childNkr60/30; ( Fartøyvernsenter; is theunusual water. AnotherattractioninNorheimsund Oddland Camping Just 1kmwestof Norheimsund alongRv7 Norheimsund tourist office tourist Norheimsund ADNEFOD • ohisn HARDANGERFJORD ••Norheimsund

( % % , where you’ll findoldwooden 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat,3-8pm 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 81 568222;www.fjordtours.com) Hardanger Boat-building Museum Museum Hardanger Boat-building hasinformationinsummer.

( % Steinsdalsfossen waterfall Steinsdalsfossen 56 551686; oddland.camping@ % h 56 553350;www.fartoy

( % 10am-5pm dailyend 56 551585;www This runs . the waterfront inthecentre of Norheimsund, 55 79 63; www.gamlastovo.no; Steinstø;set menuper person great apple juice. Nearby, lunch (bypriorappointment; Nkr175) and farm visits (adult/child Nkr50/free) andserves east ofdistance Øystese. Italso runsguided -fruktgard.no; Steinstø; Fruit Farm all of Hardangerfjord istobefoundat cals swearthatthe bestapplepie(Nkr65)in growing region, especiallyitsapples,and lo- the Kabuso.Kunsthuset a lovely heated swimming pool.It’sopposite locationand rooms,a fjord-side has pleasant fjord-hotell.no; s/dfromNkr700/1010; Hotell Hardangerfjord summer. in good informationaboutthearea ifyou’re here .no; name (1867–1927). renowned Norwegiansculptorof thesame Aug) ( of a Norwegian fjord. expect tofindinasmallvillage ontheshores 2007), it’saterrific placethatyoujustdon’t renown, such astheUK’sDamienHirst in and traditionalart(itattractsartistsof world forcontemporary Ashowcase its ownright. Kabuso junct toNorheimsund, butthe tobelittlemore used Øystese thananad- pop 2176 ØYSTESE Øystese. via Voss andNorheimsund(Nkr138,twohours) stayed. once this iswhere thefuture kingof Norway to trytheCrownPrincesuite (Nkr2000)– conies andexcellentviews.Youmayalsowant 1857 andhasloadsof charm, expansive bal- the atmosphericSandven Hotel dates from .no; s/dfromNkr790/1140; canrent out staff rowboats. views,simplecabinsandthe has goodfjord well-equipped, family-runcampbythelake Tue-Sun Sep-May) Tue-Sun Sep-May) Nkr50/free; % Hardangerfjord isrenowned asafruit- intownisthemodern The bestplacetostay office tourist Øystese Also intownisthe runbetween dailybuses Three toseven Hotel Sandven h , an octagonal gallery dedicated, anoctagonal to the 56 553000;adult/childNkr30/10; 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSatmid-May–Aug) 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, ( %

(Steinstø Fruktgard; h 56 55 39 00; www.kabuso.no; adult/child 56 553900;www.kabuso.no; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug,11am-3pm has madeitadestinationin

( % h

( pi 56 552088;www.sandvenhotel %

( mid-Apr–mid-Oct) % % 56 556300;www.hardanger Ingebrigt Vik Museum Vik Ingebrigt 56 555910;k-reise@online 56 557933;www.steinsto ) Located on right Gamlastovo pis lonelyplanet.com h 10am-3pm Jun- Kunsthuset , ashort ) Steinstø Steinstø , which

( % has 56

Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels This convenient place, which lies 500mfrom .org; tent orcaravan sitesNkr120, hutsfrom s/dNkr250/350) Ulvik Fjordcamping farm hr/half-day/day Nkr40/90/160) rest-of-year) 8.30am-1.30pmMon-Fri May–mid-Sep, .visitulvik.com; blossoms are out. the wholearea inMay whenthe is delightful complex ( right ) is10kmawayinOsaand visits possible. ThewonderfulStream Nest ties inthesurroundinghillsand farmstead with plentyof cycling and hiking opportuni- you’re intheheartof country stunningfjord pear. but There’s inUlvikitself, notalottosee tranquil silenceoncethetouristboats disap- Ulvikisbathedin derful viewsupthefjord, andwithwon- Framed byhillsandmountains heart of Norway’sapple-growing territory. There’s something specialabout Ulvik, inthe pop 1137 ULVIK via Norheimsund. (Nkr145,1¾hours) toBergen from Øystese plays theHardanger fiddle for guests. only caters sometimes forgroups;ArneFykse Nkr80-250; full listof localactivitiesand Sleeping &Eating The Ulvik There are thatruneach day sixto12buses

„ „ „ „ „ Little Ulvikisaterrific The basefromwhichtoexplore Hardangerfjord. EXPLORING HARDANGERFJORD FROMULVIK byboat, ferry andexpressHardangerfjord boatfromJunetoAugust. These includethefollowing: 52 6360; www.visitulvik.com) NorwayinaNutshell(adult/childNkr668/335SundaytoFriday)– Ulvik’s ownbranchofthe HardangerGrandTour(adult/childNkr320/160Monday toFriday)–sameasprevious tourbut andUtne(adult/child Nkr217/110MondaytoFriday)–viaBruravik,Brimnes,Kvan- Kinsarvik (adult/childboatonlyNkr100/200,withtourofHardan- Eidfjord&Vøringfosswaterfall Eidfjord(adult/childreturn Nkr219/110MondaytoSaturday)–viaBruravikandBrimnes;al-

visits and returns toUlvikat6.40pm famous roundtripleaves Ulvikat8.55amandgoesviaVoss,Gudvangen, FlåmandMyrdal also stopsinOdda 8.55am andarrives back4.40pm Ulvikatndal andGranvinwithavisittotheHardangerFolkmuseuminUtne. Itdeparts and arrives backat3.10pm Nature 11.10am Centre gervidda Nkr395/295MondaytoSaturday)–departs andwaterfall arrives backat3.10pm Nature Centre Ulvik8.55amandlows twohourseachatHardangervidda andEidfjord;departs h

(Nkr150; by appointment) h tourist office tourist 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sunmid- h

( % Mon-Fri Mon-Fri mid-Jun–mid-Aug) 56 526170; camping@ulvik . Italsoorganises is similar, although it issimilar,although

sells tickets to a range of self-guided day excursions that take inmuchof dayexcursionsthattake toarangeofself-guided sells tickets ( %

HARDANGERFJORD ••Ulvik hires 56 526360;www bicycles has a fruit- .

(per

Buses run two to six times daily between Voss runtwoto sixtimesdailybetween Buses Getting There& Away Nkr395, mains from Nkr135). dinner meals(buffet view. Thehotel serves you payanextraNkr100perperson forafjord the bestviewsinHardangerfjord, although tosomeofmodern hotel hasafront-rowseat -hotel.no; s/dfromNkr990/1190; ing a bubbling stream. some roomshave balconies terraces overlook- rooms. It’sacrosstheroadfrom water, but offerswell-run guesthouse very comfortable s/d fromNkr650/860) one of the family. views. Helen and Sjur willmake youfeel like lage, haslovely accommodationandgreat 2kmuphillandnorthoffarmhouse, thevil- .com; s/dNkr650/800) edge. water’s the centre of bythe town,issmallandright and the oddeponymous logsculpture, Allan Christensen’s artworks, including cal herb garden, several include theecologi- east of Ulvik, highlights adult/child Nkr40/free; At the AROUND ULVIK and Ulvik(Nkr85, 1¼ hours). Rica Brakanes Hotel Brakanes Rica Ulvik FjordHotel Uppheim Gård Stream Nestcomplex Stream

Anotherexcellentchoice, this ( % Thischarming oldtimber h

( Ulvik % 56 526293;www.uppheim-farm 10.30am-4pm May-Aug)

( Rambukk % 56 526170;www.ulvikfjord.no;

tourist office pis 56 526105;www.brakanes

( % (pile driver), 56 526990;Osa; ) Thishuge

( % Stream Stream , 10km

56 215

SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS the direction of a numberof nearby below, thetouristoffice canpoint youin listed vicinity.In additiontothose Eidfjord there are inthe somewonderful sights Apart fromtheviewwater’s edge, Sights office Tourist Information Projects’. ‘Road .vegvesen.no) check outthewebsite for ished duringthelife spanof thisbook,but Rv7/13. Theproject probably won’tbefin- Bruravikbetween andBrimnesalongthe 1380m suspensionbridge toreplace theferry morecome even accessiblewithaplanned overwhelmed. get on analmostdailybasisandthetowncan ships arrivecome ataprice:insummer,cruise however, beautydoes, magnificent. Eidfjord’s ledges withgreat issimply views,Eidfjord tocharmingclose farmsperched onmountain waterfalls, accessiblebyspiraltunnelsand Dwarfed andcascading bysheer mountains town amongmanyinthispartof Norway. winsourprizeasthemostbeautiful Eidfjord In theinnermostreaches of Hardangerfjorden, pop 915 EIDFJORD a lovely spot. Løvold, justasitdidduringtheGames.It’s bricks, resounds withthetubamusicof Geir which consists of 3000logsand23,000 Olympics inLillehammer. Thesculpture, ist Takamasa Kuniyasuforthe1994Winter Nest, 216 wonderfully remote farm buildings are still Now one of Norway’s topsceniclocations, the sible with theconstruction of theroad in1975. years, vehicle although accesswasonly pos- counts, there afarmhere has been for400 Accordingtosomeac- should notbemissed. to thetreeline 530mabove thevalleyfloor, Farm Above intheregion, allothersights FARMKJEÅSEN mounds burial tourist information,italsohasinternet (per10 tourist mins Nkr10) hrsrest-of-year) Inadditiontodispensing mid-Aug, shorter h Over thenextfew years, willbe- Over Eidfjord 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat&Sunmid-Jun–10am-8pm Mon-Fri, , 6kmnortheast of andclose Eidfjord originallyconceived byJapanese art- ADNEFOD • ifod HARDANGERFJORD ••Eidfjord ; followthelinksto‘Roads’andthen ( . % 53 673400;www.visiteidfjord.no; Vegdirektoratet Kjeåsen Viking Viking

(www more beautiful roadup thevalley. The jour- Rv7 thetunnels,it takes through theolder, ping enroute atMåbø Farm. Instead of taking thesteep Måbødalen,stop- 20km up through tourist office tothewaterfalls at Vøringsfossen 10am-5.30pm Jun-Aug) adult oneway/return Nkr55/70, childNkr30/40; In summer,thecutesy TROLL TRAIN skiing in the park. canoffer adviceastotrekkingand staff and trekkingin Øvre hasdetailed maps Eidfjord, which islocated 6.5kmsoutheastof Eidfjord and interesting geology exhibits.Thecentre, ofnatural history,fish species tanks mountain plays, informative explanationsof theregion’s therething. Otherwise, are interactive dis- depths of the parkonfoot,thisisthenextbest footage of thepark;ifyoucan’tvisitinner 19-minute movie withdramaticpanoramic national parks.Thecentre showsamust-see troduction tooneof Norway’s mostbeautiful &Oct) Sep 10am-6pm Apr,May, adult/child/family Nkr90/40/195; ( The exceptional HARDANGERVIDDA NATURSENTER 700m inside the mountain. guided tours (onehour).Themainhallruns power plantsinEurope,runs hydroelectric tour3.30pmJul) Jun–mid-Aug, extra Nkr55/45; the At thefootof theroadleadinguptofarm, SIMA POWERPLANT Nkr20 fromtheEidfjord tourist office. it’savailablethe farmanditsinhabitants; for Eidfjord, piqued yourcuriosity,thebooklet road isopen24hours. IfKjeåsen Farm has signs thatlistthelasttimeas5.30pm ignore the the hour,downonhalf-hour; aone-waytunnel,drivingupon through goes tourist office fordirections. Thevehicle road involving atleastonerope-bridge; askthe hours return), butit’ssteep andquite perilous sible toclimbupthefarmon foot (four visitors aroundfrom9amto5pm.It’spos- dayinsummer.every She sometimesshows the busloadsof touristswhovisitthefarm there for40years –alone,thatis,apartfrom inhabited byawomanwhohaslived alone % 53 66 59 00; www.hardangervidda.org; Øvre Eidfjord; 53 665900;www.hardangervidda.org; Sima PowerPlant h byPer AHolst,tells thehistoryof guided toursat10am,noon,2pmdailymid- runs from outside Eidfjord’s runsfromoutside Eidfjord’s Hardangervidda Natursenter Hardangervidda

( % Troll Train isasuperlative in- 53 673400;adult/child h , oneof thelargest lonelyplanet.com 9am-8pm Jun-Aug,

( % Kjeåsen in 53 673400; h hourly

SæbøCamping Sleeping &Eating east of Eidfjord. Natursenter inØvre 6.5kmsouth- Eidfjord, totheHardangerviddaYou’ll finditclose Øvre Eidfjord; 47; www.flatearth.no; can bearranged through guided, two-day glacier expeditions (Nkr1800) Nkr400)and Nkr400), power-kiting (half-day river- andsea- (half- Nkr360to kayaking (half-day climbing p188), (perday Nkr1700), day Nkr250),abseiling (see Park National posite ) andtrekking intheHardangervidda In additiontohikingupKjeåsen Farm ( op- Activities atthe purchased tourist office. ney takes aboutonehourandtickets mustbe Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Nkr179) is reasonable. to chill andtherestaurant (mainsNkr75 to The gardenterrace isagoodplace the fjord. rooms, some of which have partialviews of ern hotel offers if uninspiring comfortable, some have good views. apartments with bathroom andkitchen and ommended, family-run placehaswell-kept aptNkr1050) .no; Eidfjord;d/fNkr650/800, loft balconies (rooms1and6)are our favourites. tion andthere’s asmallcafé.Theroomswith and anexcellentrange of cosy accommoda- ovated oldhome. Itoffers afriendlywelcome far fromthewater’s inalovely, edge isset ren- appealing placeinthecentre of not Eidfjord jonat.com; Eidfjord;d/fNkr990/1340,cabinsNkr600-700) October. to the sixcampinghutsare onlyopenfromApril are justfourdoubleroomsandonesingle; are good andthere’s internet access. There the Hardangervidda Natursenter. Breakfasts to it’salsoclose 6.5km fromcentralEidfjord; runbyErikandInge hasahomelyfeelhouse & breakfast Nkr440/550; fjord.com; Øvre Eidfjord;hutNkr325,s/d withshared bathroom mornings. the freshlyThe owners promise baked bread in 500m fromtheHardangervidda Natursenter. pretty lakeside locationinMåbødalenjust h camping; Øvre Eidfjord;tentsites Nkr120,cabinsNkr460-900; Eidfjord; s/dwithFjordPass fromNkr700/970) Ingrid’s Appartement Ingrid’s o Eidfjord Hotel Eidfjord Gjestegiveri mid-May–mid-Sep) Vik Pensjonat Vik

( %

( % 53 665927;www.nafcamp.com/sabo Thisgoodcampsite hasa i 53 665264;www.eidfjordhotel.no;

( %

)

( This delightful guest Thisdelightful % ( % 53 6646;www.ovre-eid Flat Earth 53 665162;www.vikpens 53 665485;www.iapp h HARDANGERFJORD ••AroundEidfjord around May-Sep) Thismod-

( Thisrec- % 47 6068 This . te falls. the Buses by andOddapassright Geilo between Cafeteria backdownthevalley ontheRv7. a railing!)reached fromtheVøringsfossen number of lookouts(onlyoneof which has the FossliHotel (parkingNkr30)orfroma The bestviewsare fromthelookoutnextto mer (therecord atany onetime). is 43buses given theendlessstream of insum- tourbuses ited naturalattraction,andit’shardtodisagree By someaccounts,thisisNorway’s most-vis- hasavertiginousmain section dropof 145m. plateau’s rimanddownintothecanyon; are plungingover calledVøringsfossen, the ally numerouswaterfalls here, which together 182m-high where Hardangervidda begins,isthestunning, At thesummitafter asteep 20kmdrive and anumberofthrough corkscrewing tunnels. Rv7 Måbødalen,including twistsupthrough largest the nationalparks.FromEidfjord, in northernEuropeandoneof Norway’s Plateau isagateway tothe Eidfjord AROUND EIDFJORD Odda. and Øvrecept Sundaybetween Eidfjord Eidfjord, extrarunsdailyex- or twicedaily,plusseveral once Vøringfoss, Øvre andEidfjord Eidfjord andOddavia Geilo runbetween Buses Getting There&Away food. kiosk makes achange Norwegian fromstandard boar burger (Nkr139) withcurrymayonnaise mealsandsnacks;thewild light that serves are extremely It alsohasacafé comfortable. ship hasarrived blockingyourview.Rooms unless, ofexceptional vista, acruise course, great placeforasplurge andtowake uptoan views fromitsfjord-facing rooms.Thisisa fromNkr880/1000) s/d Oct-Apr Nkr1290/1500,half-boardNkr1550/1900, .no; s/dMay-Sep h .fossli-hotel.com; s/dNkr690/1050, cheaperwithFjordPass; cading water, the opened in2001andoffers extraordinary lows youto enjoy the fallsafter the crowds of here all, staying al- norphones.Best TV acter andmodernparquet floors, but neither hotel are stunning andtherooms have char- The views fromtheatmospheric andhistoric If you’dlike totheroarof tofallasleep cas- Vøringfoss Quality Hotel May-Sep) May-Sep) ( p188 ), thelargest plateau mountain is set justbackfromtheprecipice.is set Vøringfoss waterfall Vøringfoss Fossli Hotel

( % Thisswish hotel 53 674100;www.choice

( % Tee r actu- are There . Hardangervidda Hardangervidda 53 665777;www

217

SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS trail pastthecooling earlier stave church. built byScottish invaders onthesite of an According tolocallegend, thechurch was downthescales. trying toweigh the devil ing of soulsbyMichael theArchangel with and-chalk paintingsthatdepict theweigh- (admission free; boats oneof Norway’soldest mains of theformer touristoffice isallthatre- site theKinsarvik The smallU-shapedpatch of greenery oppo- KINSARVIK Sights &Activities office tourist Lofthus office tourist Kinsarvik from the8thto 11th centuries. the site of of asettlement upto300Vikings wasn’talwayssopeaceful–itwas Kinsarvik in theheartof aregion knownasUllensvang. of of anoffshoot Sørfjorden, Hardangerfjord nearby Lofthus rest peacefullyontheshore The picturesque townof and Kinsarvik pop 3416 KINSARVIK &LOFTHUS is wellsignposted 1.3kmoff the Rv7. his composed up deliciousmeals(Nkr180).EdvardGrieg from theHardangervidda region; Erikcooks engaging hostwithatreasure-trove of stories the hotel inthe1890sandwhoisaquietbut great-grandfatherrun byErik,whose built Thehotel is downthemountain. disappear 218 at 3.55pm, with three hours in Eidfjord. ticketsfice sells fora water slides,minigolf and farm animals. Jun &mid-Aug-Sep) 6.30pm Sat&Sunmid-May–late h ( p188). text, of the networkof tracks thewild forest through what’s knownasthe coe December) closed h .visitullensvang.no; perhalf-hrinternetaccessNkr25; 7pm mid-Jun– mid-Aug) 1960s andthewallsstillbeartraces of lime- built inaround1180,itwasrestored inthe that leaves Kinsarvik at10.25amand returns that leaves Kinsarvik % From May thetourist of- toSeptember, For children, the Kinsarvik alsooffers anappealingaccess Kinsarvik Hardangervidda National Park Hardangervidda 9am-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter hrsrest-of-year, 9am-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, shorter 10.30am-6.30pm daily lateJun–mid-Aug,10.30am- 53 67 13 13; www.hardangertun.no; day passNkr125; 53 671313;www.hardangertun.no; ADNEFOD • isri otu HARDANGERFJORD &Lofthus ••Kinsarvik h Opus 66 10am-7pm late-May–mid-Aug) ( Familieparken Hardangertun Familieparken Viking port Viking % Husedalen waterfalls Monk’s Stairway, ( boat % inthehotel. Thehotel 53 661190; 53 663112;www

(adult/child Nkr260/130) (see theboxed (see . Kinsarvik also . Kinsarvik stone churches h andonto 11am- , along . First has

Kinsarvik withUtne (per person/vehicleKinsarvik andLofthus. Aferry connectsKinsarvik on asemiregular basis andpassthrough OddaandVoss orGeilo runbetween Buses Getting There &Away Nkr375). dinner rooms and agoodrestaurantfortable (buffet place hasexceptional views,supremely com- Nkr100; vang.no; s/dfromNkr890/1350 withFjordPass, fjordviewextra about this place. rooms are simplebutthere’s awarmfeeling this renovated The 16th-centuryfarmhouse. and Torwillmake athomein youfeel right s/d/ffromNkr490/710/870) vang-gjesteheim.no; indoor poolandcanarrange boat rental. row views,Lofthus hasaheated Camping campsite withfront- well-equipped fjord-side cabin Nkr360-480,4-bedNkr450-590; Camping Lofthus LOFTHUS and ithasa reasonable restaurant. shore iscomfortable inthe centre of Kinsarvik Western hotel justbackfromthe able Best fjordhotel.no; s/dfromNkr890/1080; cabins Nkr290-550) 4-bed ing.no; tent&caravansitesNkr120plusNkr20electricity, Camping Kinsarvik KINSARVIK Sleeping &Eating graves fromthe . and it’ssurroundedbyacemetery withsome in the1880s)withfinestained-glasswindows Aug) stone church garden of Hotel Ullensvang.Lofthus alsohasa Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg.It’sinthe Hut The mainattractioninLofthus is LOFTHUS if youdon’thave your own wheels. ( Vøringsfossen p217 ), it’sonlyworthdoing Hardangervidda Natursenter ( p216 ) and bus tothe you wanttotake thesightseeing Given thatyoupay anextraNkr195/110if .com; tent & caravan sites Nkr130 plus Nkr35 electricity, 2-bed .com; tent&caravansitesNkr130plusNkr35electricity, for kidsand the youngatheart. bythewater’s edgeright andhasawaterslide Kinsarvik FjordHotel Kinsarvik Hotel Ullensvang Hotel Ullensvang Gjesteheim

dating backto1250(thetowerwasadded ( h pis 24hr year-round)

(admission free; Thissimple,friendlyplaceis

( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ) %

Thisenormous, luxurious ( %

( % 53 661364;www.lofthuscamping ,

53 663290;www.kinsarvikcamp

( the % 53 670000;www.hotel-ullens h

( %

53 663100;www.kinsarvik one-time retreat of 10am-7pm late-May–mid- i 53 661236;www.ullens ) Thiscomfort- s ) Another Kristin Grieg’s Grieg’s to 3pm) in July. bakes deliciouslocalcakes onTuesdays(noon italso of Kinsarvik; localartistLars carvings music, dance,orchard cropsandthewood- Hardanger fiddleandfiddle-making,fishing, Hardanger women,weddings,thefamed andaschool, plusexhibitionson outhouses a collectionof historichomes,boats,shops, itage of theHardanger region. Itcomprises which actsasarepository fortheculturalher- Sep-Apr) 10am-5pmJun-Aug, 10am-3pmMon-Fri 4pm May, air fruit-growing andfortheexcellentopen- Hardangerfjord, Utne isfamousforits One of theprettiest littlevillages you’llfind UTNE day. a (Nkr35/102, onehour)atleastsixtimes Nkr28/77, 40minutes) andontoKvanndal Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels industrial, iron-smelting capital. What it does What itdoes industrial, iron-smelting capital. Finnmark), Odda isthe Hardanger region’s battle withsomeprettydoes dire places in Frequently cited asNorway’s ugliesttown(it pop 7154 ODDA times a day. Kvanndal (Nkr14/35,20minutes) atleastsix person/vehicle Nkr28/77, 40minutes) and (per Ferries Utne,Kinsarvik runbetween Getting There& Away Nkr439) in town. best restaurant (three-course buffet evening ifyou’reeven anditalsohasthe notstaying hotel’s fabulousdécormakes itworthalook touches from the18thand19thcenturies.The Restored in2003,itoverflows withperiod Nordic War,makingitNorway’soldest hotel. s/dNkr1135/1470; Utne; offers good rates. weekly rooms brimmingwithcutesy folktouches. It in apretty 1898buildingwithcharacter-filled 10kmwestofguesthouse, UtneonFv550,is dfromNkr750) Alsåker; -gjestegard.no; Hardanger Gjestegård Sleeping &Eating for information. ing beyondthevillage; askattheUtneHotel Utne Hotel wasbuiltin1722after theGreat .hardanger.museum.no; adult/childNkr50/free; Utne Hotel Hotel Utne There are alsosomegood Hardanger FolkMuseum

( % 53 666400;www.utnehotel.no; i

( % ) Thehistoricwooden 53 666710;www.hardanger

( % Thisatmospheric walking trails walking HARDANGERFJORD ••Utne 53 670040;www h lead- 10am- , Srjre shore. Sørfjorden or the upper funicular station (six to eight (sixtoeight or theupperfunicular station either Skjeggedal to10hours (eight return) and theoutrageous the topof the the Oddatouristoffice. Hikers canheadfor Friday; timingsare variablesocheck with child return Nkr120/60) 960m, 42-degree About 5kmeastof town,inSkjeggedal, the WATERFALLTYSSESTRENGENE to contact the price. Forglacierhikes, youmayalsowant at Buer,8kmwestof Odda,isn’tincludedin tourist office. point, Transport tothestarting contact including cramponsandiceaxes). Fordetails (minimum three persons, Nkr400perperson, by aglacierwalkontheBuerarmof Folgefonn guided hike upthelovely Buer valleyfollowed warm clothingandsturdyfootwearcantake a thetouristoffice hut;contact tain for details. trips runtoOddaTurlag’sHolmaskjær moun- return at3.30pm.FromOdda,weekend glacier at 10.30amfrommid-Junetomid-August and tours totheskicentre leave fromJondalQuay Skisenter more the information,contact ing andsleddingfrommid-JunetoOctober. For icefield andoffers summer skiing, snowboard- Folgefonn ismainlandNorway’s third-largest FOLGEFONN Sights rest-of-year; internetaccessperhalf-hrNkr25) 11am-6pm Sunmid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9.30am-4pmMon-Fri .visitodda.com; admiring the view. cier. Just trynottobreathe inwhileyou’re ofthe icyheights thefabulousFolgefonn gla- Hardangerfjord withariotouswaterfall and finest landscapes:theinnermostreaches of offer isafront-rowviewof oneof Norway’s uphill walksouth of the town centre. shores of thelake Sandvinvatnet, a20-minute Aug) _camping; Odda; tent&caravansites Nkr130; Odda Camping Sleeping &Eating return). hours wwfleon-rfrra.o Jondal) www.folgefonni-breforarlag.no; Anyone ingoodphysicalconditionwith The Odda Themost convenient camping isonthe Hardanger Breføring

( % Folgefonni Breførarlag h

53 668028;www.folgefonn.no) ( tourist office tourist Tyssestrengene % 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pmSat,9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 41 321610; www.oppleve.no/odda runsonWednesdayand Mågelibanen Funicular

( ( % %

waterfall rock feature Folgefonn Sommar Folgefonn Sommar . 90 644975) 53 654005;www

( % isnearthe h 95 117792; (646m) mid-May– . Short

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SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS Odda. The features period interiors, rose aRenaissance west of there’s Rosendal, anextraordinaryrock- of theglacier Bondhusvatnet, where there’s awonderfulview 1km), thenwalk2kmonagoodtrack tolake the roadupSunndalvalley(drivable for Sun May-Sep) fonna.net; (car Nkr60; now bereached byan11km-longroad Just westof Folgefonn, scenic can Rosendal pop 1056 ROSENDAL &AROUND and Oslo (Nkr490, 7¼ hours). runto/fromVoss(Nkr215,2½hours) buses One tothree dailyNor-Way Bussekspress operate onetothreelocal buses timesdaily. OddaandJondal(Nkr149,2½hours), Between Getting There&Away information on the area. trout. Thelocallybornowners are amineof as reindeer ormountain inablueberrysauce onlocalproduce,such fusion dishesbased is alsoterrific (mainsaroundNkr230)with landscape paintingsadornthehotel. Thefood andHardangerfjord fairy-tale fantastic whose of artistNilsBergslien by theghost Eidfjord stories–thehotel isreputedlyghost haunted style, butthisisabove allaplaceforlovers of ensuite, parquet floors of andareal sense Hotelmended Tyssedal hasgreat roomswith .no; Tyssedal;s/dfromNkr950/1050) restaurant-cafeteria. rooms withmodernfacilitiesandareasonable upmarket Hardanger Hotel offers comfortable 17;s/dfromNkr790/950; tel.no; Eitrheimsveien 220 Camping ’smost atmospheric stays. the farm buildings,which makes foroneof Nkr600, dorms Nkr600to Nkr800)inone of here sleep can even (singlerooms Nkr350to garden, concerts andartexhibitions.You hrs May-Aug) .baroniet.no; Rosendal; adult/childNkr75/10; some of thebest Ulvenåsoslab mountain, (1247m),offering tact the tourist office in Rosendal the touristoffice inRosendal tact for details. In Sunndal, there’s thereasonable The 1665 At Sunndal,4kmwestof thetunnel,take Hardanger Hotel Tyssedal Hotel AGLNE YYK • Hueud HAUGELANDET & RYFYLKE ••Haugesund h

h ( , Norway’sonlybaronial mansion, % is by Quay. Rosendal 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pmSat,11am-5pm 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, tourist office tourist 6am-10pm) Baroniet Rosendal Bondhusbreen 53 48 4186;www.sundalcamping.no;

( rock climbing %

( % 53 640000;www.tyssedal-hotel undertheicefieldfrom 53 6464;www.hardangerho

( % . In Uskedalen, 14km The highly recom- Thehighly 53 480040;www.folge

inNorway;con- ( % 53 482999;www pi h Sundal variable variable tunnel ) The

aon 1000. around erected in celebration of Christian gatherings is the the including cal buildings, withthehighlights Haugesund hasretained manyof itshistori- Sights Quick Storkiosk office Haugesund tourist Information unified. first sive battletookplacein872andNorwaywas was inthenearbyHafrsfjord thatthe deci- historical significanceforNorwegians. It busy summer festival calendar. buzz aboutitinsummer. The townalsohasa lined withwoodenbuildingsand has areal whiletheHaugesundsights, waterfront is Haugelandet region withsomeinteresting travellers. forthehistoricallyrich It’sabase off thebeaten routes andisrarely visited by portof HaugesundThe NorthSea lieswell pop 32,303 HAUGESUND waterfront caféculture in summer. and itsmaincallingcardsare itsfestivals and Scottish Isles. Haugesund istheregional capital and islandsthatare reminiscent of thenorthern low-lying hillsandrelatively inlets flatcoastal North andeastof Stavanger liesa region of RYFYLKE HAUGELANDET & Løfallstrand. nearby are via alsotwodailyconnectionstoBergen andOddaviaSunndal.There Rosendal tween in the area. (mains Nkr89toNkr179)isprobably thebest and isanatmosphericB&B. Therestaurant s/d withshared bathroomNkr650/850) inNorwegian;Skålagato17;Rosendal; 66; www.gjestgiveri.no forNkr100/90 canoes/bicycles per day. Sunndal; tentsitesNkr70,cabinsNkr400-600) .visithaugelandet.no; Strandgata171; h Mon-Fri Mon-Fri Sep–mid-Jun) 10am-3pmSat&Sun mid-Jun–endFri, Aug,10am-4.30pm Buses run three to seven timesdailybe- runthreeBuses toseven The ornate The area aroundHaugesund carrieshuge 10am-11pm) Internet access. Rådhus Krosshaugen (townhall). About 75msouth Rosendal Gjestgiveri (Haraldsgata82;perhr Nkr40; mound and stonecross, ( % 52 010830;www dates from1887 h lonelyplanet.com

( 9am-5pm Mon- . Italsorents % /fax 534736 Strandgaten Gjestgiveri Strandgaten Sleeping office. tourist Festival August: Haugesund hastwoexcellentfestivals in Festivals anniversary of her death. Maritim Hotel, commemorates the30th A father, alocalbaker, emigrated totheUSA. ancestral homeof Marilyn Monroe , whose commemorates thedecisive 872 battle. of Haugesund. Theobelisk,erected in1872, Avaldsnes onnearbyKarmøy, is1.5kmnorth King Harald Hårfagre, whodiedof plagueat Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels staples with creativestaples twistssuch asfillet of Smedasundet, Sørensen’s hasNorwegian architecturally distinguished buildingsalong &Sat,1-11pm Sun) 11am-2am Fri 125, dinner mains Nkr229-295; Smedsundet 90;English breakfast Nkr99,lunchmainsNkr99- into abarasthenight wears on. Haugesund restaurant morphs worth itssalt theweather’swarm.Anyhum whenever restaurants, givingthearea anagreeable dasundet, isalmost entirely given over to Haugesund’s waterfront promenade,Sme- Eating class. high Nkr10,000!), thisrecently renovated hotel is ously appointed for rooms(onesuite goes its aquariuminthelobbyto luxuri- mid-Sep–mid-Jun Nkr1200/1735; withwaterviewNkr1250,s/dweekday summer &weekend fromNkr860/1110, d Åsbygaten 3;s/dsummer&weekend buffet. evening ous rooms.Includedintheprice isalight 20th-century buildingandlarge andluxuri- waterfront location, anattractive early- .no; Smedasundet93;s/dfromNkr945/1095; This hotel inthecentre of townhasthebest Festival; early–mid-Aug) There’s alsofree wireless internet. are acosychoice inthecentre of Haugesund. Strandgaten Gjestgiveri are tidyroomsthat eri.net; Strandgata81;s/dNkr545/750; eri.net; Bizarrely, Haugesund claimstobethe Haraldshaugen NB Sørensen’s Damskipsexpedisjon NB Sørensen’s Hotel Maritim Rica Amanda Hotel Comfort monument

(mid-late Aug) Silda Jazz on thequay,nexttoRica , theburialsite of Viking . For details, contact the contact . Fordetails,

andthe (Haugesund InternationalJazz (

% ( %

h ( % 52 86 30 00; www.rica.no; 52 863000;www.rica.no; 52 7155;www.gjestgiv p 11am-midnight Mon-Thu, Oneof themore 52 808200;www.choice HAUGELANDET & RYFYLKE ••AroundHaugesund Nkr100 i Norwegian FilmNorwegian

) ( Onoffer at % p i 52 700050; Nkr90 ) From i )

drag yourself awayfromthewaterfront, but Haugesund withStavanger (Nkr210,2¼ Coast Air Olav in1250. Theadjacent6.5mspire, known ( King HåkonHåkonsson’s huge Liberty in New York. Avaldsnes, of tobuildtheStatue wasused noon-5pmSunmid-May–mid-Aug) Fri, mune.no; Visnes;adult/childNkr50/10; Museum Mining from themineatVisnes–now tothefoundingofsential another. Copper see Monroe; left ), Haugesund wasalsoes- ily history of oneAmericanicon(Marilyn Not content withplayingaroleinthefam- Karmøy Island AROUND HAUGESUND toHaugesund, see services p403 . hour on weekends. second andevery most hourlyonweekdays hours) (Nkr290,3½hours) andBergen al- airport has uptofive between dailyflights SAS Braathens Getting There&Away (Nkr159) forafilling,but meal. affordable is oneof them.Trytheentrecote sandwich this achingly coolrestaurant andwinebar and so.deservedly Haugesundstanding landmarkisalwaysfull and periodwoodarchitecture, thislong- outdoor terrace overlooking thewaterfront honey-marinated pork neck. monkfish withvegetarian orsoy-and- lasagne chip bits away. to thecenturies, climbed theneedle through legend hasitthatpriests of littlefaithhave, still free-standing whenwe were there. Local Day of but Judgment isathand;it wasclose that whenitactually touches thewall, wards thechurch wallandlegend suggests as the daily flight toHaugesunddaily flight (from Nkr490). midnight Fri &Sat) midnight Fri Nkr139-164, mainsNkr219-279; mains Nkr145-279; Mon-Sat, noon-5pmSun Jun-Aug) % About 5km south of centralHaugesund, ofFor details international boatandair Nor-Way connect Bussekspress buses To Glass &Vinhus Lothes Mat 52 838400;Avaldsnes; admissionfree;

Virgin Mary’s Needle Mary’s Virgin ( %

( %

( 52 857900) % 81 544442;www.coastair.no)

( There aren’t manyreasons to 52 707400;Strandgata169;lightmeals % h

( % 81 520000;www.sasbraathens.no) 11am-1.30am) and Oslo (fromNkr560). 52 838400;www.karmoy.kom

( % h , leansperilously to- 52 71 22 01; Skippergata 4; 52 712201;Skippergata wasdedicated toSt 3-11pm Mon-Thu, 3pm- Withitslovely h –4kmwestof 11am-5pm Mon- stone church h alsohasa Haugesund 10am-5pm Visnes Visnes 221

SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS the 10th century onwards. archs of thenewlyunifiedNordvegen from history of Harald Fair-Hair andothermon- in the 1830s. warehouse thatwasshippedfromRiga,Latvia, ings andagricultural nautical exhibits. articles,rooms withperiodfurnish- household extensive museum, many traditionalwoodenbuildings andan 37km southof Haugesund (onKarmøy), has office. post catch bus8,9or10(Nkr37)fromnexttothe May–mid-Aug) child Nkr30/10; inNorwegian;adult/ .museumsnett.no/karmoyfiskerimuseum the evenings. with Vikingfeasts, processionsand saga Festival Viking in period dress. is beyondthechurch; you’llbeguidedbystaff h 00; www.nordvegen.info;Avaldsnes; adult/childNkr30/10; noon-5pmSunOct-Mar) Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm 10am-5pmSat,noon-6pmSunApr-Sep; Mon-Fri, adult/child/student orseniorNkr80/40/60; Centre History park isthenewandoutstanding 222 Rc (Preikestolen). Rock most recognisable vantage points –Pulpit signature and hometoone of fjords its the southernmostof Norway’sLysefjord, asthegateway to able buzz. Italsoserves oil-rich cityof Stavanger humsto an agree- Tucked awayinNorway’ssouthwest, the LYSEFJORD STAVANGER & exhibits anda aquarium. saltwater newbuilding, fishing with astate-of-the-art est B&BsinNorway;it’slocated inaformer is oneof themostatmosphericandfriendli- Norwegian; Nordnes 7, Skudeneshavn; s/dfromNkr550/750) Norwegian; Nordnes7,Skudeneshavn; 60; adult/childNkr50/10; mid-May–mid-Aug), The wonderful settlement ofThe wonderfulsettlement To reach Avaldnes fromcentral Haugesund, In earlyJune,Karmøy Islandhostsa The reconstructed Down ashort pathfromthechurch’s car Norneshuset In Vedavågen, ontheisland’swestcoast, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pmSunmid-Jun–mid-Aug)10am-6pm Mon-Fri, Karmøy Fishery Museum Karmøy TVNE YEJR • Saagr STAVANGER & LYSEFJORD ••Stavanger willhave enthralled fishingbuffs h

(www.vikingfestivalen.no inNorwegian) (www.vikingfestivalen.no ( ( % % withexcellentcollectionsof 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pmSunmid- 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 52 812400;www.nordvegen.info; 52 827262;www.norneshuset.noin h Mælandsgården 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pmSun 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, Viking farm Viking , which recreates the

( % 52 817455;www Skudeneshavn h

( ( % Nordvegen Nordvegen % 10am-6pm 52 8384 52 8454 ,

and adviceonLysefjord and Preikestolen. Localinformation 9am-2pmSatSep-May) 4pm Mon-Fri, 3; .com; Domkirkeplassen internet access. 10am-7pmThu,10am-2pmSat)Free, time-limited Fri, rewards anhour or two’s ambling. with cheerful, well-tended flowerboxes. Itwell allimmaculately kepthouses, and adorned 173 late-18th-century whitewashed wooden rowsofcobblestone walkwayspass between of Theoldtown’s the harbour,isadelight. (Old)Stavanger Gamle OLD STAVANGER has a tourist office full list. At lastcount,Stavanger the had23museums; office Tourist Stavanger Turistforening Public library [email protected] rates. exchange Bank Norske Olav V’sgate andHåkon VII’sgate. ofeasy walkingdistance the harbour. harbour. Mostsites of interest are within Breiavann, about10minutes’ walkfromthe each otheronthesouth areThe busandtrainstations alongside Orientation &Information feel. small-town lostits ing, forthisisaplacethathasnever By Sundaymorning,it’squietandcharm- in thebesttraditionof oilandportcities. terfront comesalive andcanget quite rowdy especiallyinsummer,thecity’swa- nights, about atmosphere Most asanything else. ButStavanger’smuseums. appealisasmuch place. It’salso hometoalmosttwodozen up fromthewater’s edge, it’sapicturesque the quietstreets of theoldtownclimbing centre arrayedaroundapretty harbourwith ellers’ favourite cityinNorway.Withits Vibrant Stavanger endsupbeingmanytrav- pop 117,315 STAVANGER huts. and Thu, 10am-2pmSat)Informationonhiking mountain Muségata; Skype-equipped internetcaféwith Skype-equipped good coffee. 9pm Mon-Sat,noon-9pmSun;perhrNkr55)Well-run post office Sights Most major banksare represented along h ( %

(Håkon VII’sgate) 10am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 10am-6pm 10am-5pm Mon-Wed&Fri, ( (Kulturhus; (Kulturhus; (Håkon VII’sgate) % 51 554120;Sølvberggata15; 51 859200;www.regionstavanger , above thewestern shore h h

9am-8pm Jun-Aug,9am- DNT ern shore of thelake 10am-4pm Mon-Wed& offer competitive andtheadjacent ( % lonelyplanet.com 51 840200;off h 11am- Den Filled withhigh-tech interactive displays,gi- elaborate baroquepulpitandstained-glass form. Itswonderfulstonecolumns,tapestries, cathedralstillinitsoriginal oldest medieval the cathedralis,bysomeaccounts,Norway’s of somefeatures duringtheReformation, tion inthe1860sand1940,stripping Anglo-Norman influences.Despite restora- traces of Gothic,baroque,Romanesqueand vated followingafire in1272andcontains approximately 1125;itwasextensively reno- stonecathedraldatingfrom stated, medieval Tue-Thu &SatSep-May) VII’s gate;admissionfree; This beautiful June itstages apopular Emigration Festival. of Norwegiandescent tracetheirroots.Inmid- 31; Strandkaien This NORWEGIAN EMIGRATION CENTRE lonelyplanet.com cially ifyou have kids. spend longer here than youplanned, espe- Norwegian coastcanbediscounted’. You’ll of the shelf off findingoil onthecontinental government commission that‘thechances and the1950sdeclaration byaNorwegian inStavanger; should bebased that Statoil the 1972decision byNorway’sparliament in 1980,when123 oilworkers were killed; coverage of the of are: Norwegian oil.Notleastamongthese papers of significant momentsinthehistory and extractionwitharchive footage andnews- balances thetechnical sideof oilexploration nicely in 1969untilthepresent, themuseum fromdiscoveryexploration intheNorthSea and anamazingmodelof ‘Ekofisk city’. recreating millionsof years of naturalhistory simulators, IanWright, apetrodome senter pre- byformerLonelyPlanetTV mentary covering Norway’sgeological history,adocu- includeaterrific 3-D film its manyhighlights gantic modelsandauthenticreconstructions, Sat, 10am-6pmSunSep-May) Nkr75/35; 00; www.norskolje.museum adult/child .no; Kjeringholmen; of-the-art We could(andhave) spendhours inthisstate- MUSEUMNORWEGIAN PETROLEUM Christian calendarare a visual feast. ofwindow depictingthemainevents the Tracingthehistoryof oil formationand centre h

museum ( 10am-7pm dailyJun-Aug, 10am-4pmMon- h % cathedral 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) 51 538860;www.emigrationcenter.com; Alexander LKielland STAVANGER & LYSEFJORD ••Stavanger isanimpressive, butunder-

h (Norsk Oljemuseum; 11am-7pm Jun-Aug, 11am-4pm , oneof Norway’sbest.

(Stavanger Domkirke; Håkon (Stavanger Domkirke; helpsforeigners % tragedy 51 93 whole 12-stage process from salting, through through whole 12-stage process fromsalting, the fish ballsandtheexhibits take youthrough you’ll get thelowdownon canningbrislingand provided 50%of thetown’semployment.Here canning factories; by1922thecity’scanneries was oncehometomore thanhalfof Norway’s oilthereBefore were andStavanger sardines one of Stavanger’s mostappealingmuseums. closed Monrest-of-year) 65 91;Øvre Strandgate88-90; Don’t miss this Canning Museum Alexander L Kielland. ofa series focusingonlocalauthor tableaux TheStavangerital. of the1880sisdescribedin ofdevelopment thecityintoamodernoilcap- bishopric,theherringyears andthe medieval ofinclude evidence StoneAge the habitation, toOilTown’.FeaturesAncient Landscape 900 years of Stavanger’s history,‘From Jun–mid-Aug, closedMonrest-of-year) The main Stavanger Museum Museum we don’tcover here are the pricing.Theothertwomuseums separate as forchildren. Thechildren’s has museum pricesareNkr20; studentandsenior thesame visiteddaycosting thesame extra museum visit costsNkr60/30peradult/child, witheach you pace tofitthemallin.Thefirst museum ing day, but you’dhave tokeep upabrisk www.stavanger.museum.no) The large STAVANGER MUSEUM over thecitytowards old town. thereground level are somereasonable views From behind thewestsideof thetowerat Valbergjet 2; adult/childNkr20/free; this contains interesting structed asaguards’lookoutin1850andnow The historic VALBERG TOWER&GUARD MUSEUM used and theybecame collectors’ used items). An dine-can labels(more than40,000 designswere there’s afascinating displayof historical sar- crank up someof theoldmachines. Upstairs, are alwaysonhand to answeryourquestions or brochure available attheentranceand guides ing. There are no labelsbutthere’s ahandy to threading, andpack- smoking, decapitating around Stavanger, couldeasilyfillasightsee- andthe museum eight-part museum eight-part tower museum Medical Museum Medical ; housed in an old cannery, it’s inanoldcannery,it’s ; housed (Muségata 16; (Muségata Valbergtårnet wascon- h , withitssites scattered

11am-4pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, (Hermetikkmuseet; museum h Norwegian Printing Printing Norwegian 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) h

reveals nearly ( . % 11am-4pm mid-

(Vektermuseet; (Vektermuseet; 51 842700; % 51 52 51 52 223

.

SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS 224 4 6 1 3 2 5 STAVANGER

(2km); Mosvangen Park(2km); To RogalandArt Museum(2km); Mosvangen Vandrerhjem &Camping Bergen (179km); Kristiansand (245km) Sola StrandHotel (14km); Stavanger Airport (14km); Tastagata TVNE YEJR • Saagr STAVANGER & LYSEFJORD ••Stavanger SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Breidablikk...... Archaeological Museum...... Tourist Office...... Stavanger TuristforeningDNT...... Public Library...... Post Office...... Police Station...... Den NorskeBank...... C@fe com...... Stavanger Museum...... Stavanger MaritimeMuseum...... Stavanger Cathedral...... Norwegian PetroleumMuseum.... Norwegian EmigrationCentre...... Ledaal...... Children's Museum...... (see5) Canning Museum...... Stokkaveien B4 Valberg Tower&GuardMuseum.. 11

Steingate

9 Løvdahls gate Stavanger

AC

Gamle

Niels Juels gate Juels Niels Møllegata

Klinkenberggata

27

10 Løkkeveien

25 Peder Claussøns gate

Eiganesveien Øvre Strandgate Øvre

Prinsens gate 44

45 Dronningens gate Møllegata 49

ὈὈ Olavskleiv Strandgate Nedre Madlaveien 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Kannikgata

C6 B4 C4 C3 B4 A5 A3 A5 B6 C4 C5 C4 B4 C6 B4 C4 To UK Engelsm gate Engelsm

12 Lars gen V

50 15 Strand Herte

EATING SLEEPING Rimi Supermarket...... Damskipsexpedisjon...... Naree Thai...... Le CaféFrançais...... B3 Kult Kafeen...... (see5) India TandooriRestaurant...... Emilio's TapasBar...... Eddi's Bakery...... Bølgen &Moi...... (see13) Bilbao...... Akropolis GreekRestaurant...... Ye OldeStable...... Victoria Hotel...... Tone's B&B...... Thon HotelMaritim...... Stavanger B&B...... Skansen Hotel...... Skagen BryggeHotel...... Radisson SASAtlanticHotel...... Myhregaarden Hotel...... Comfort HotelGrand...... NB Sørensen's B kaien

39 rvigs

Løkkeveien

Torget Fish

gate Rosenkildetorget

48 Market Skagenkaien 41

Peder Klows gate Skansegata 26 4 22 20 21 8 Station Haakon VIIs gate 35

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

32 Train To TheThompson's

Olav V's Olav 2 37

gate Valberggata 17

40 Nedre Ho Nedre

Muségata

Domkirkeplassen Havnering

Storgata Ska

Øvre

42

g

B&B (250m) e

n

Jern M uségata 6 Byparken

Breiavann

Kirkegata Holmegate en

banev 36 l 16 Breigata megate 5

30

14

n 7

Laug Salvågergt

ms 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 gata 31 38 43 46

Nygaten 33

34 C4 B4 C3 C3 C4 C3 C5 C4 A3 B3 A5 C5 D5 B3 B4 B5 C4 C4 28 Søregata 13 Ostervåg

29 Lagårdsveien

Kongsgate 1 Stiftelsegata 18

Klubbgata 19 Lysefjord SightseeingTours Sykkelhuset...... Strandkaien Quay...... DeparturePoint...... Fiskespiren Quay...... Bus Terminal...... B3 Valbergtårnet Galleri...... (see17) Neo GalleriStudio...... Kjellaren Galleri...... Kino Z...... (see5) Irishman...... Café Sting...... Transit ArtSpace...... Paparazzi CocktailBar...... Mamasita...... (see 29) B.brormann B.bar...... (see22) Timbuktu Bar&Restaurant...... Stim...... (see 35) Soleado...... Sjøhuset Skagen...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Sølvberggata 24

Bergelands Tunnel Hetlandsgata

3 Birkelandsgate Bergjelandsgata 0.3miles 500m 0 0 To Iron-Age Farm (4km) Vaisenhusgaten Nytorget

B yfjorden Verksgata

To Haugesund;

Breibakken Kirkebakken Saudgata

23 Pedersgata

Bergen Vikedalsgata lonelyplanet.com

Langgata 47 D 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 To Lysebotn B3 B4 D4 C5 B4 C4 C3 B3 B4 B4 C4 B4 B5 To Tau lows you to see theopulentlifestyles oflows youtosee the shipowner, days,ital- These Berentsen. Lars 40A; The excellentBreidablikk Breidablikk and apendulumclock from 1680. four-poster bed,unusualantiquefurniture theking’s250-year-oldmer home. You’llsee asthe localroyalresidence andsum- serves Schanche Kielland.Nowrecently restored it 4pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-4pmSunrest-of-year) The empire-style Ledaal from smoked straight sardines the ovens. August), thefires are litandyoucansample Tuesday andThursday frommid-Junetomid- style. Onthefirst Sundayof month(and every workers’ cottages furnished in1920sand1960s acaféandrestoredadjoining buildinghouses lonelyplanet.com .ark.museum.no; Peder Klows gate30A; adult/child Nkr20/10; .ark.museum.no; This well- presented ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM rinth, curiosity and theatre. centred aroundthethemesof landscape,laby- tivity-based exhibits (eg oldtoys,alabyrinth) Tue-Sat, noon-4.30pm Sun) seum.no; Arneageren; adult/child Nkr80/40; (Norsk Barnemuseum; A great place totake thekidsisthis Children’s Museum Wyvern, vessels, the1848 alsoownstwohistoricsailing The museum store, aswell asthemerchant’s livingquarters. andanexcellentgeneralshipowner’s office a late-19th-century sailmaker’s workshop,a areconstructionnoisy wind-upfoghorn, of collection of vessels, a model boats,sailing dating from around1800.There’s alsoalarge maritime historyspread over twowarehouses Mon rest-of-year) Strandgate 17-19; This worthwhile Stavanger Maritime Museum knick-knacks. and displaying oldfarmingimplements,books rich andfamousinlate-19th-century Norway, for wealthymerchant shipownerGabriel was constructed1799and1803 between of-year) h wasconstructed foranothermerchant 11am-4pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-4pmSunrest- both on display. covers 200years of Stavanger’s h STAVANGER & LYSEFJORD ••Stavanger % 11am-4pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, closed Anna of Sand Ledaal museum 51 912393;www.norskbarne.mu , which hasarange of ac- museum

(Eiganesveien 45;

(Sjøfartsmuseet; Nedre (Sjøfartsmuseet;

manor ( % andthe1896 h 51 846000; www

(Eiganesveien 11am-3.30pm museum h 11am-

dent orchildNkr200/125) guided walking tours From JunetoAugust, thetouristoffice runs Tours on bus 130 (Nkr25). ant 3kmwalkfromthecentre or10minutes birds,aswellsongbirds. It’sapleas- and sea tract large numbers of breeding ducks,geese, lagoon, which are encircledbyfootpaths, at- the greenery. Thelake anditssmallattached lar placeforlocalstowanderandpicnic amid The large forest MOSVANGEN Ekeland and others. including workbyHarald Dal,Kai Fjell, Arne semblage of mid-20th-centuryNorwegian art, A nine-sidedannexe thelargest houses as- Stavanger’s Hertervig (1830–1902). ownLars Furutrær Tue-Sun) Ibsensgate55;adult/childNkr50/30; Henrik This ROGALAND ARTMUSEUM to Ullandhaug(Nkr27, 15 minutes). Sunday. Take bus25or26towardsSandnes in perioddress andfoodpreparation on Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-4pmSunonlyMay-Oct) 3, Ullandhaug;adult/childNkr40/10; FarmAge The reconstruction of a1500-year-old IRON-AGE FARM move tomore interactive exhibits. hunts) insummerandit’smakingawelcome gramme of activitiesfor kids(egtreasure their environment.There’s alsoafullpro- prehistoricsymbiosis between humansand tools, arunestoneanddescriptionof the ing theVikingAge. includeskeletons, Exhibits traces 11,000years of humanhistory,includ- h .no) Festival Chamber Music International In early August, Stavanger playshosttoits Festivals &Events boxed text, p231 . the touristoffice at 11am. to thepresent, including thehaunting plays Norwegianartfromthe18thcentury of thecentre, features variousactivities,staff For details of tours to Lysefjord, see the of see For details tours toLysefjord, . Most concerts are held inthe Stavanger 11am-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, shorter hrsrest-of-year) 11am-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, shorter museum , 2.5kmsouthof thetowncentre, dis-

(Jernaldergarden; (Jernaldergarden; andotherlandscapepaintingsby

(Rogaland Kunstmuseum; park of thecity.Theyleave from

( % at Mosvangen isapopu- % 51 859200;adult/senior, stu- 51 807000;Ullandhaugvn h 11am-4pm daily % , 4kmsouth h

51 530900; (www.icmf 11am-4pm Gamle Iron- 225

,

SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS bedandbreakfast.com; Muségata 79;s/d withsharedbedandbreakfast.com; Muségata off thewinter blueswiththe Nkr60 for breakfast. tel, 3kmsouthwestof thecitycentre, charges Stavanger’s andsimplelakeside pleasant hos- shared bathroomNkr240/400/480, Ibsensgate19;dm/s/dwith Henrik [email protected]; to thesouth.Bus4also by. passes 3km posite thecathedraltoUllandhaugveien, take bus78or 79(Nkr25)fromop- Camping, For theMosvangen Vandrerhjem orMossvangen BUDGET book asfarahead as possible. snapped upwellinadvanceduringsummer; Accommodation inStavanger isalways inNorwegian) (www.stavangervinfest.no PulpitRockFestival (www.maijazz.no inNorwegian;earlytomid-May) as theirbackdropincludethe Nkr300. Othermusicfestivals withStavanger andtickets rangeCathedral fromNkr100to 226 Thompsons B&B Thompsons to the in orclose city centre: listed are all charming Those places tostay. Breakfast Circle amid thegreen and agreeable surroundings. ers are treated birdsong toalmostincessant aroundMosvangen lake,nesting season camp- son hutsfromNkr350/500, with carNkr80/110, caravanorcamperNkr120,2-/4-per- gencamping.no/indexengelsk; Tjensvoll1b;tentsiteswithout/ Aug) of food and drink. Sleeping In themiddleof March, Stavanger shakes The tourist office distributesThe touristoffice the Mosvangen Vandrerhjem Mosvangen Camping website www.stavanger2008.com. signature landmarksasthebackdrop.Formore informationonupcomingevents, visitthe withStavanger’s exhibitionsandstreet parties means isacontinuousprogrammeofconcerts, tecture, youthandmigration‘SoundsfromtheCathedral’. terms, Inpractical whatthat Themes are aroundwhichtheprojects basedincludeculturalheritage,environment,archi- will beplentyofthingshappeningtocoincidewithyourvisitifyou’re here during2008. visitors fromallover theworld.Withmore planned,chancesare than200projects thatthere city,whichisNorwegianto thisenergetic toitscore port butopentoculturalinfluencesand theyear-long matchedattractions. celebrationsseemperfectly Withamottoof‘OpenPort’, sovibrantisitsculturallifein 2008withLiverpool andsodiverse intheUK), are itscultural itsdesignationasEurope’s CapitalStavanger richlydeserves ofCulture (an honouritshares EUROPE’S CAPITAL OFCULTURE and TVNE YEJR • Saagr STAVANGER & LYSEFJORD ••Stavanger NuMusic ( %

(www.numusic.no; early Sep) leaflet and the seven places leaflet and theseven (www.pulpit.no inNorwegian;mid- 51 521329; www.thompsons h

( % mid-May–mid-Sep)

( 51 532971;www.mosvan % h 51 543636;stavanger Stavanger Vinfest Stavanger Vinfest May JazzFestival May mid-May–mid-Sep) , acelebration During . Bed & , the

and withawarm family feel. bathroom Nkr250/450)Housedina19th-centuryhome views. Breakfasts are andthe also ahighlight the rooms are large andhave coastal sweeping beach 14kmsouthwest of Stavanger. Many of historic Sola Strandoverlooks aquiet sandy hotel.no; s/d fromNkr700/850) sections. both ish. There’s free wireless accessthroughout hotel rooms that are larger andmore styl- rooms,andnewer with simple,comfortable section is dividedintoan olderguesthouse it thanStavanger’s larger hotels. The hotel has a morecustoms house, personal feel to This centrallylocated place,opposite theold d Nkr775-1190,hotelsNkr790-1130,Nkr875-1290; 7;guesthousesNkr690-1030, Skansegata .skansenhotel.no; served. are freeat 9pmnightly, coffee, tea andwaffles lunches are available forabargain Nkr35,and and asmilefromthefriendlyowners. Packed shower are tidyandcomewithsatellite TV, why.Thesimplerooms it’s nothardtosee recommendedcomes highly byreaders and toilet Nkr625/740; 1a;s/dwith shared vangerbedandbreakfast.no; Vikedalsgata town. of roomsintheheart modern,comfortable ises thisplaceprom- the grimexterior because Thu rest-of-year Nkr1250/1450) &allweekinsummerNkr590,s/dMon- Klubbgata 3;dFri-Sun Grand Hotel Comfort MIDRANGE &TOPEND An oldStavangerhomeclosetoGamle Stavanger. Claussøns gate22;s/dwithshared bathroomNkr280/450) Tone’s B&B o o Sola StrandHotel Stavanger B&B Skansen Hotel Hotel Skansen ( % i 51 524207;[email protected]; Peder Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ) Thisquietbutpopularplace

( ( % % 51 943000;www.solastrand 51 201400;www.choice.no;

Don’t be put off by Don’tbeputoff Therecommended ( % ( % 51 562500;www.sta 51 938500;www i )

of from,butyourbestbet roomstochoose bythewater.location right There are arange weekend andsummervaluefromitssuperb (part of theFjord Pass network)offers good Nkr775/975, Mon-Thu rest-of-year Nkr1195/1395) &allweekinsummer hotels.no; Kongsgate32;s/dFri-Sun extortionate. are out. Internet rates (per24hours Nkr200) added toyourroombillbepaidatcheck- from somerestaurants aroundtowncanbe Guests have accesstoaprivate gym,andbills is toaskforaroomwithharbourview. Nkr1750-3100; summer Nkr805/975,Mon-Thu rest-of-year Nkr1410/1520,ste &allweekin 30;s/dFri-Sun bryggehotell.no; Skagenkaien ship. cruise hotel anentire contains lounge fromaformer Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotel Saagrs eateries. Stavanger’s .com, which gives alocal view onmanyof opinion checksecond outwww.gardkarlsen fident about ourrecommendations, butfora the streets beyondthe waterfront. We’re con- many placesliein harbour intheevening, rants and,despite thehubbub aroundthe Stavanger hasanextensive choice of restau- Eating hotel. stylish Hotel practices. environmental as partof thesystem of Miljmerkinggood tentive It’saccredited need. toyourevery areis supremely at- andstaff comfortable in Stavanger, thisoutpostof theRadisson 1395; Øvre Strandgate112;4-/6-bedhouseNkr1000/1400) rooms. styled a somewhatbaronialairwithtraditionally of theRicaHotels network,theVictoriahas Nkr795/995, Mon-Thu rest-of-year Nkr1150/1350; &allweekinsummer 1;s/dFri-Sun -hotel.no; Skansegata cious, well-appointed rooms. lakeshore withspa- keeps upthestandard www.radissonsas.com; OlavV’sgate3;s/dfromNkr1295/ oldest 18th-century homes. sq metres inoneof alltoyourself Stavanger’s Nygaten 24) hotels, thismodernhotel justbackfromthe Thonchainthe consistently comfortable of Thon Hotel Maritim Hotel Thon Expected toopenin2008,the Hotel SASAtlantic Radisson Ye OldeStable Hotel Victoria Skagen BryggeHotel Skagen i

( % ) Arguably themostluxurioushotel promises tobeStavanger’s promises most 95 889153;www.myhregaardenhotel.no; i ) ( % This large andopulenthotel

( % 51 525346;www.gamlestallen.com;

( 51 867000;www.victoria ( % % 51 850000;www.skagen 51 850500;www.thon STAVANGER & LYSEFJORD ••Stavanger

( % Myhregaarden Myhregaarden 51 761000; i Part of Fifty ) Part Part the waterfront, this restaurant serves every- the waterfront, thisrestaurant serves evenings, you can also choose à youcan alsochoose evenings, la carte. massive. there Although are menusinthe set marinade (Nkr139) canonlybedescribedas incilantroandlime – theshrimpsandwich and veal, while thelunch specialsare huge this stylish restaurant includemonkfish, lamb 5-11pmTue-Sat) brasserie dinner menusNkr465/525/595; lunchspecialsNkr129-149,3-/4-/5-course Kjerringholmen; character. more areoutdoor tables tempting, butinsidehas (Nkr245) wouldbeourpickformains. The also domeatdishes. Theoven-baked salmon great the cooks dishes, although seafood century formerwarehouse isthevenue for dinner) lunch specialsNkr105-139,mainsNkr185-269; is the foodandservice better upstairs. when theweatherturns,andlocals swearthat The atmosphericindoordiningarea isideal lunch menuthat’sexcellentvalue. seasonal thing fromred mullettoporkribs,witha o NORWEGIAN (Nkr135) among the highlights. fish atasty burger minimalist styleandserves professionals alike. It’srelaxed withhintsof ofthe affections familiesandcoolyoung Sat, noon-10pmSun) Nkr119-139, mainsaroundNkr135; small butdeliciousselection of pastries. freshest bread isfoundhere; a italso sells 10am-3pmSat) 5pm Mon-Fri, to winddown.Italso sandwiches. serves Françaisisa goodplace Café street outside,Le onthepedestrian in townandoutdoortables est range of goodies pastriesandothersweet 7pm Thu,9am-4pmSat,11am-5pmSun) sandwiches fromNkr50; o CAFÉS &BAKERIES h Restaurant Akropolis Greek INTERNATIONAL the centre of town,thiscoolplacehaswon h 26;specialsNkr85-125,mainsNkr229-269; 84 3820;Skagen 14; specialsNkr59-129, mainsfromNkr125, lunchbuffet Nkr149; Bølgen &Moi Sjøhuset Skagen Kult Kafeen Eddi’s Bakeri lunch & dinner) lunch &dinner) Alsoalongthewaterfront, this18th- Le Café Français Le Café NB Sørensen’s Damskipsexpedisjon NB Sørensen’s

( Oneof thebetter placesalong % ( This very popular place serves This very popular place serves

% Located intheKulturhus ( %

51 891600;Sølvberggata14;pasta h ( 51 53 90 00; Østervåg 39; 51 539000;Østervåg % The imaginative menus in 51 9351;NorskOljemuseum,

( 9am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9am- 9am-5pm Mon-Wed&Fri, % 51 89 51 80; Skagenkaien 16; 51 8980;Skagenkaien h Someof Stavanger’s ( % 51 86 17 18; Østervåg 30-32; 51 861718;Østervåg café 11am-6pmdaily,bar& 51 891454; Sølvberggata h Withthewid- 10am-10pm Mon- h h

lunch & ( % 9am- 227

51

SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS gata 14;mainsNkr115-225; dinner, Soleado does tasty dishes tasty thatin- dinner, Soleadodoes Naree Thai Naree India Tandoori Restaurant bles onthe1stfloorthatwe century canningfactoryandhaswindow ta- inarefurbishedthe water, Stimisset 19th- Sat) 129, mainsNkr169-265; the chic atmosphere. asmuch asfor seafood meat andwell-chosen a young-and-trendy crowdforitsexcellent Tue, 6pm-1.30amWed-Sat) Nkr195). (from cuisine andotherSpanishdishessuch as paella Basque to lake high-quality Breiavann serves h mains Nkr195-255,small/largetapassetmenuNkr195/345; (Nkr162). curry (Nkr92)andchickenclude clubsandwiches 1am Mon-Sat) cials Nkr59-162,dinnersetmenufromNkr365; atno with friendlyservice extra cost. goodIberianfood barserves Spanish tapas on theMediterranean theme,thispleasant Sat) lunch buffet until 6pm. aSunday meats andmoussaka. Italsodoes of insearch greatthose tzatziki,grilled salads, authentic Greek foodatreasonable pricesfor 228 space withexhibitions, live jazz whenever is atonce amellowcaféand afunkycultural StingJust upthe hillbutaworld away,Café midnight Mon-Thu, &Sat, 3-11pm Sun) noon-3.30amFri them on your own. they’re allsimilar, wethinkyou’re abletofind themand,as hear themlongbefore yousee a penchant forloud,energetic music.You’ll terfront andcater toayounger crowdwith Most of thelivelier bars are onthewa- right Drinking &Entertainment Strandgate 15;mainsfromNkr235; Reasonably priced and priced Reasonably menu. extensive tapas Nkr55-125,mainsfromNkr77; i town. in h 70, lunchmainsfromNkr60,dinneraround Nkr120; Bilbao Soleado Also recommended: Stim Timbuktu Bar&Restaurant Emilio’s Tapas Bar Café Sting Café dinner Tue-Sat) lunch &dinner)OneofnumerousAsianrestaurants Opposite theAkropolisandcontinuing The thirdplacethat’sworthtrying by TVNE YEJR • Saagr STAVANGER & LYSEFJORD ••Stavanger

( % ( %

( ( % % 51 85 00 16; Skagenkaien 28; starters Nkr89- 28;starters 51 850016;Skagenkaien Better valueforlunch thanforBetter

51 53 33 00; Kongsgate 41; starters Nkr95-115, 51 533300;Kongsgate41;starters ( % 51 89 05 10; Breigata 22; starters Nkr40- 51 890510;Breigata 22;starters 51 554380;Sølvberggata7;lunchspe- This elegantrestaurant next 51 893284; Valbergjet 3;

h ( % Thishipplaceattracts h 4pm-1am Mon-Fri, noon-1am 4pm-1am Mon-Fri, 51 896400; ( 4pm-midnight Mon-Sat) % h

h ( % 51 893935;Valberg- really 6pm-12.30am Mon& lunch &dinnerMon- 51 843740;Nedre

Sølvberggata 13; like. h h 11am- noon-

www.valbergtaarnet.no; Valbergjet 4; phisticated littlecaféisanadjuncttoafine, 1am) Wed & Fri, 10am-6pm Thu, 11am-3pm Sat&Sun) Wed & Fri, excellent ceramics that sells and glasswork. h Studio Neo Galleri tercolours andphotosof old Stavanger, while 67 04;Øvre Strandgate66; thatremain,Of those it’salittleoutdated.of shops,although these which has advertisements andamapforsome let shops. Ifit’sstillaround,get holdof theleaf- workshops, artists’studiosandquiet little Old Stavanger ishometodozensof artistic Shopping the eight-screen restaurant. a It alsohas tracts achic crowdmostnights. bars canmuster, thisclean-linedplaceat- h summer. in live Irishfolkmusicatleasttwiceaweek outside. wall baringherbottomonthe for theMonaLisa greatsells artbooks.Ifyoucan’tfindit,look goodcoffee and garde exhibitions.Itdoes small galleryof changing andoften avant- space.com; Skansekata; scrum. tourist by thelake iswonderfullyremoved fromthe 10am-3pmSat) 7pm Mon-Fri, town. in Nkr91). Thisiswhere wedrinkwhenwe’re beers (Nkr58)andspirits(Nkr76 to half-litre cerning over-30s great-value crowdandserves brick walls,thisoddlynamedbardrawsadis- tion andwithcontemporary artworksonthe bars where youcanactuallyheartheconversa- gata 7; hip-hop ning house, and soul. where spin- theDJskeep youonyourtoes, the moodtakes itandaweekend nightclub more sophisticationthanmostStavanger Nkr70/40) Transit Art Space Transit Art o In theValberg Tower, you’llalsofind the For cinemafeatures (someinEnglish),try Paparazzi CocktailBar Irishman Mamasita 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pmSat) 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, The OldTownStavanger &Crafts, –Art 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, &Sat) 6pm-1.30amFri Stavanger’s friendlyIrishpubhas(free) h in the Kulturhus. 5pm-1am) B.brormann B.bar B.brormann Valbergtårnet Galleri Valbergtårnet

(

% ( % 51 894181;Hølebergsgata9;

51 533300;Kongsgate41; ( % Kino Z One of Stavanger’s coolest h

( h % 51 529005;Nedre Strandgate54; noon-4pm Tue-Sun) Thisappealingcafé-bar

Kjellaren Galleri Kjellaren 10am-3pm)

51 554100;www.transitart ( ( % %

( 51 59 71 20; Skagen 27; 51 597120;Skagen % 82 051100;adult/child isasmallstudio lonelyplanet.com h

51 938500;Skanse- ( sells oils,wa- sells % 10am-4pm Tue, 93 653041; , agallery Thisso-

h ( % h 10am- 95 09 3pm- For

south of thecitycentre. see theboxedsee text, p230 . Saturday andSunday).Forferries toLysefjord, utes, fourdailyMondaytoFriday,two on Sunday)andHaugesund (Nkr280,80min- ( From BOAT flights. international Nkr520) atleastoncedaily.See p403 for and Oslo (from (fromNkr560)andBergen 00 00;www.sasbraathens.no) Stavanger airport AIR Getting There&Away handicrafts from across Norway. artworksand and showroomforhigh-quality lonelyplanet.com every 20 minutes between the bus terminal and 20 minutes the busterminalevery between and evening, earlymorningand mid-tolate Between TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Getting Around p419. see on cheaper For morean overnight information service. (Nkr390, threeKristiansand hours), including hours,(Nkr846, eight uptofive daily)via daily)andOslo(Nkr133, onehour, eight Trains runfromStavanger toEgersund TRAIN campervans is Nkr13/free/26. toll toenter Stavanger forcars/motorcycles/ 9½hr all you’llenduppayingaroundNkr500. The tor intwoferries, roadtollsandcitytolls.In Nkr735 the direct E39canbeexpensive, onceyoufac- upto5 daily * and Stavanger Bergen along Driving between 5¾hr 2¼hr CAR &MOTORCYCLE Nkr420 Nkr210 changeatKristiansand * someservices 2hrdaily every 2hrdaily every Oslo 2-4 Kristiansand Haugesund Nkr355 Bergen daily Destination Departures Cost Duration 4½hr runtothefollowingplaces: Buses BUS Quay andEngland,see p409 . 4½ hours, two daily Monday to Saturday, one 4½ hours, twodailyMondaytoSaturday,one % For ferries Stavanger’s between Strandkaien 51 868780) Fiskepirterminalen Flybussen airport buses Flybussen airport boatsleave (Nkr620, forBergen minipris

STAVANGER & LYSEFJORD ••Lysefjord ( % 51 658000)

fares (fromNkr199), flies between Stavangerflies between ( % SAS Braathens 51 868780)

( is atSola,14km % 51 5226 00) , Flaggruten’s

( % 81 52 run run

ages. Preikestolen, withastonishingly uniform formation isoneof Norway’semblematicim- to theedge of thisextraordinary granite rock ofThe sight peoplescramblingwithoutfear Preikestolen (PulpitRock) region’s various trails. Preikestolen walkingguidesof andcansell the information about to thecarparkdispense h drerhjem ( p230 ) andthe Preikestolen, both thePreikestolhytta Van- Forsand. in ( exhibits. folk- history visual displays.There are alsogeological and inaudio- information andpresents Lysefjord the ferry provides terminal atOanes, tourist 11am-5pm Sep-May) teret.no; Oanes;adult/childNkr50/25; Lysefjordsenteret Information theboxedfrom Stavanger, see text, p230 . Forvisiting it’s oneof Norway’smust-sees. drive theswitchback roaddowntoLysebotn, Stavanger, hike uptoPreikestolen (604m),or from a captivatingbeauty.Whetheryoucruise favourite andthere’s fjord, nodoubtthatithas almost-luminous mist.Thisismanyvisitors’ by ondulldays,alloffset even ambient light, Fjord), thegranite rockglowswithanethereal, All alongthe42km-long (Light Lysefjord Sat) 10am-2pm h ( You canhire bikes mountain at BICYCLE early morning and midnight. bus 9(Nkr41),which runshourlybetween Alternatively, fromMondaytoFridaytake city the airportatSola(oneway/return Nkr70/120). in the world. place, avantage point unrivalled anywhere It’s quite simply aremarkableup Lysefjord. you won’t regret themagical viewdirectly While looking downcan be abitdaunting, is likely tobearound for afew more centuries. alarming crackwhere itjoinsthemountains, below, isafreak of nature which, despite the onthree sidesplunging604mtothefjord cliffs LYSEFJORD % % Located atthetrailheadforhike upto is Also worthcontacting 9.30am-8.45pm May–mid-Sep) 9.30am-8.45pm May–mid-Sep) 10am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 10am-7pmThu,10am-5pm Mon-Wed&Fri, 51 53 99 10; Løkkeveien 33;perday/weekNkr75/280; 51 539910;Løkkeveien 51 700114;www.visitlysefjorden.no, inNorwegian) . , in a fabulous setting northof, inafabuloussetting

( % 51 703123;www.lysefjordsen kiosk h Lysefjord Utvikling at theentrance 11am-8pm Jun-Aug,

( % Sykkelhuset 97 16 55 51; 97 165551; 229

SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS will find themselves unable to go right tothe will findthemselves unabletogoright lead up the mountains behind,offeringlead upthemountains more don’t.Rockytrailsalso people seemingly take alldue care please said, ifother even balanced ontheedge atop three chairs!). That theFrenchfalling off (even daredevil who noreportedbeen of cases anyoneaccidentally local authoritiesassured usthatthere have make the theheart skipabeat).However, of peopledanglinglimbsover the abyss can edge watching (even thedeath-defyingantics 230 lous walks – the ofthose low fitness. parts of thetrailandcan bechallenging for are sections at thebeginningand inthemiddle to Preikestolen cliffs Thesteepest posed itself. granite slabsandalongsome windyandex- tothefinal climbacross sections and boggy ofthen climbspast a series alternating steep begins alongasteep butwell-marked route, leaves fromPreikestolhytta Vandrerhjem. It views. wonderful The area alsooffers other fabu- several The two-hour,3.8km trailuptoPreikestolen There are nofences withvertigo andthose is difficultwithoutacar. At thetimeofwriting,followingcompanieswere offering four-hour tourist officehasplanstoincorporate theKjeragbolten ( opposite asvisiting) intotheferry service Ferry fromStavangertoLysebotn( services opposite ) were inastate offluxwhenwevisited. The Lysebotn byFerry almosteverypartures half-hour). where aferry crossestoOanes(caranddriver/adult footpassengerNkr67/24,10minutes, de- costs Nkr50/25percar/motorcycletoparkhere. leads 19kmtoPreikestolhytta Vandrerhjemroad (Rv13) thesignedturn-offafter (take 13km).It (car anddriver Nkr125,40minutes, daily).FromthepierinTau, upto24departures awell-signed If you’ve yourownvehicle, thecarferry youcantake fromStavanger’sFiskespiren QuaytoTau Preikestolen byCar (7.50pm onSaturday). trailleadsuptoPreikestolen.two-hour The lastbusfromPreikestolhytta toTau leaves at8.10pm (Nkr55), whichrunsbetweentheTau pierandthePreikestolhytta Vandrerhjem. Fromthere, the from Stavanger parture isat8am(8.25amonSunday).Insummer,theferries are metbyabus Nkr38/20) fromlate Junetomid-August andjustthree dailytherest ofsummer;thefirstde- Six ferries adayrunfromStavanger’s Fiskespiren QuaytoTau (adult/childfootpassengers Preikestolen byBus For generalinformationontheregion, checkoutwww.lysefjordeninfo.no. Rock; p229 ), although a ferry alongLysefjordisanalternative thehike. forthosewhocan’tmake uptoPreikestolen hike (Pulpit ofvisitingLysefjordisthetwo-hour The aspect mostspectacular VISITING LYSEFJORD TVNE YEJR • Lsfod STAVANGER & LYSEFJORD ••Lysefjord Either way, the trip between Stavanger and the trailhead takes around1½hours.Either way,thetripbetweenStavangerandtrailheadtakes An alternative route from fromStavangerinvolves drivingtoLauvik(viaSandnesalongRv13) Vatnerindane ridge circuit ridge Vatnerindane (two circuit est campsite toPreikestolen (5km,or1km rents out rowing boats. Italso forthe night. the crowds disappear itcomes into itsownwhen Nkr145), although situated place withacafé(dishes Nkr35to walking track. It’sawell-run, fantastically ofis adjacenttothe start the Preikestolen Nkr670-850) Jørpeland;dminclbreakfast.preikestolhytta.no; Nkr250,d the shop-restaurant.attached facilities are available, but youcanalsoeatat about butproximity Kitchen iseverything. off theRv13) isn’tanythingtowrite home Nkr130/150 plusperpersonNkr30; tolencamping.no; Jørpeland;tentsiteswithout/withcar Camping Preikestolen SLEEPING &EATING to Preikestolen. the Preikestolhytta car park. (three hours) –allof which are accessiblefrom hours), Preikestolhytta Vandrerhjem Vandrerhjem Preikestolhytta See See above infoonhowtoget fordetailed (three hours) andsummitof Ulvaskog The fine turf-roofed hostel byalake Thefineturf-roofed (three hours), the Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( % 51 749725;www.preikes h

( Apr-Oct) % 97 165551;www Moslifjellet Theclos- Refsvatnet Refsvatnet

with ensuite. AlsoinOanes, of thePreikestolen along theRv13) turn-off Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels The 10km return hike involves astrenuous surely itonpostcards aroundNorway. seen tworockfaces about 2mapart –you’vetween walk leads to After Preikestolen, themostpopular Lysefjord ACTIVITIES Lysebotn, see opposite . hairpin bends.For more ongetting details to 1000muptowardsSirdal in 27 spectacularly and much-photographed road corkscrews headat the fjord whereLysebotn, anarrow The ferry ridefromStavanger takes youto Lysebotn meals. traditional good,reasonably priced restaurant serving ( 700, aptNkr350-450) www.lysefjord-hyttegrend.no; 4-6-personcabinsNkr400- you’ll find shaped boulder, or‘chockstone’, lodged be- % Just downtheroadin (16kmsouth Oanes

Sirdalekspressen Lysebotn byBus „ „ car ferries way/return Nkr250/490) depart dailyfromlateway/return Junetomid-August. Nkr250/490)depart 10am)toLysebotn(arrival2.20pm,one 9.50am)orbus station(platform6,departure (departure Setesdalen region ( p159 ) andOslo. From Lysebotn,theroadtwistsupmountainfromwhere youcancontinueonintothe mid-Jun–late Aug) .no) below Preikestolen andback. noon Sat&SunOct-Apr) Jun&Sep, May, Nkr320/175/225; At thetimeofwriting, Tours late MaytoearlySeptember. at8amdailyfromStavangerFiskepirterminalencost Nkr100/50peradult/child.They from depart 51 703123;mainsNkr59-139,Sunbuffet Nkr195)

Kolumbus Veteran FjordCruise Jun-Aug) (arrival 3.25pm)butnotatPreikestolen. eightstopsenroutevanger at1.30pmMonday,WednesdayandFridaymake toLysebotn Veteran FjordCruise should book . Italsorunseight-hour ferry-bus-hike toursfromStavangertothetopofPreikestolen that Lysefjord Hyttegrend

Boat includestouristcommentaryandstopsforphotos. Those travelling withacar (car/motorcycle & driver Nkr360/260,adult/child&seniorfootpassenger Nkr165/110) (car/motorcycle &driver Kjeragbolten

( , which hasexcellentchalets % h at least runs similartours,sometimesunderthebannerof

91 652800;www.kolumbus.no) departures 10am& departures 2pmSun-Wed,10am,noon,&6pmThu-SatJulAug,noondaily ( % twodaysinadvance. Rødne FjordCruise 51 599060or868788)

, anenormous oval-

( ( % % STAVANGER & LYSEFJORD ••Lysefjord 51 868788;www.vfc.no; adult/seniororchildNkr300/200; Lysefjordsenteret 51 868788;www.vfc.no orwww..no;

( % 51 703874; was

offering 3½-hourcruisesfrom Stavangertothewaters isa

( % Normalcar-and-passenger ferries thatleave Sta-

51 895270;www.rodne.no;adult/child/seniororstudent busesfromtheStavangerFiskepirterminalen just be Norway’s craziest sport; contact the just beNorway’s craziest sport;contact jumpingfromKjeragboltenthen base could friends. your of youperched ontherockissure toimpress Norway’s mostastonishingviews. The photo crawl) directly ontotheboulder foroneof Fromthere,vertical cliff! youcanstep (or traversing ledge ona1000m-high anexposed requires including sometrickymanoeuvring, Kjeragbolten, actuallyreaching theboulder make thegoingquite Onceyou’re rough. at ridges muddyslopescan and,inplaces,steep hairpin bend above Lysebotn. car park(parkingNkr30),nearthe highest 700m ascentfromtheØygardsstølen Café ing road up the mountain or,moreing road upthe mountain likely, you 4-bed cabins Nkr650-950) tent/caravan sitesNkr130/150,dm Nkr250, -touristcamp.com; Camp Lysebotn Tourist SLEEPING &EATING .com) Stavanger BaseClub If this doesn’t provide thrills, If thisdoesn’t sufficient The route trudges upandover three for advice. Stavangerske

Ifyoucan’t facethedaunt- ( % h

( % 51 881210;www.basekjerag departures 10amdaily departures h 90 832035; www.lysebotn

(www.stavangerske departures 11.30am departures toLysebotn.

231

SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS FJORDS SOUTHWESTERN BERGEN & THE THE & BERGEN BERGEN & THE SOUTHWESTERN FJORDS of 18roadsdesignated asa‘ National Tourist populated isone countrynorthof Lysefjord The Rv13 thewildandlightly roadthrough AROUND LYSEFJORD wish to eat. There’s whodon’t aviewingdeckforthose looking thehairpintwistsdowntoLysebotn. over-the ‘eagle’snest’,perched atopthecliff youcan’tbeat views atthisendof Lysefjord, meals Nkr45-129; ferry hasleftfor the day. It’salovelythe fjord. quietspottobeafter the occupies anincredible attheheadof setting can’t beartoleave, TouristCamp Lysebotn 232 Øygardsstølen Café TVNE YEJR • Aon yejr STAVANGER & LYSEFJORD ••AroundLysefjord h 10am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep)

( % 38 377400;snacks&light For Ps network. Pass sonable prices.Thehotel ispartof theFjord fine accommodationandgoodmealsatrea- best followedby private car. hours, twoorthree Rv13 daily),although is Stavangertween andSauda(Nkr310,2¼ board fromNkr850/1150) .saudafjordhotel.no; Saudasjøen;s/dfromNkr690/990,half- grand old Suldalsosen finest sceneryisaround butit’sworth itifyouhaveBergen, time. The nitely Stavanger theslowroute between and theboxedRoute’ (see text, p414 ). It’sdefi- The bestpublictransportistheferry be- For considerable comfortandcharm, the and Sauda FjordHotel Suldalsvatnet , west off theRv13,, westoff offers Årdal

( . % lonelyplanet.com 52 781211;www , Jøsenfjorden , www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright theterms andconditions onoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,or resell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer In return, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseit forpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse, accesstothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake

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