CONTENTS 1. Production of Textile/Fabric 1-24 2. Selection of Dyes 25-55 3. Printing and Flocking 56-110 N 4. Comparative Characteristics 111-137 5. Insulation Fabrics 138-164 -1 - .'O / •• 4 \ UNIT Production of Textile/Fabric 1 NOTES PRODUCTION OF TEXTILE/FABRIC STRUCTURE 1.1 Learning Objective 1.2 Introduction 1.3 Fabric Production 1.4 Producing Textiles for Fibre Yarns 1.5 Producing Textiles for Stretch Yarns 1.6 Producing Textiles for Heat Set Thermo Plastic Yarns 1.7 Producing Textiles for Elastometric Yarns 1.8 Producing Textiles for Bi-component Yarns 1.9 Producing Textiles for Bi-Constitute Yarns 1.10 Producing Textiles for Chemical Treated Natural Fibre Yarns 1.11 Bulk Yarns 1.12 Student Activity 1.13 Summary 1.14- Glossary 1.15 Review Questions 1.1 LEARNING OBJECTIVES After completion of this unit, you should be able to: ' • Define different types of yams • Describe the methods of producing textiles for different types of yarns • Define the Bi-component yarns • Explain Bi-constitute yarns • • Discuss about chemical treated natural fiber yarns • Learn about the bulk yams and lube bulk yarns.' 1.2 INTRODUCTION We all know that food, clothing and shelter are the three basic necessities of life. We eat food to survive and.protect ourselves from diseases we need a Self-Inutructional Material 1 Fabric Production house to live in. Why do we wear clothes? We wear clothes for protection and Processing against climate, for modesty and beauty, and also to show our status. The material that we use for clothing is called fabric. Suppose, we go to a shop to buy fabric for our dress, we will see a variety of fabrics there. NOTES Have you ever wondered as to what these fabrics are made ot? Why are some clothes warm, some rough and others soft? Why do some fabrics go bad after washing while others remain the same? How do you get variety in fabrics? This unit fii’st gives you brief information on the methods of fabric formation. The unit also gives information about the meaning and different tybes of fibers. It also tells you about how to use the burning test to identify various fibers. The unit also highlights the characteristics of fibers. The unit also defines yarn and its different types; 1.3 FABRIC PRODUCTION 1.3.1 Meaning of Fabric The term ‘fabric’ doesn't need any explanation because you all know what it means. Fiber (American English) or Fibre (International English) are hair-like materials (they look like threads) that form the building blocks from which yarn and fabric are made. So we can describe fabric as: Fabric is a material that can be used to maJce clothing or household articles. Sometimes we see the seat of a chair or a couch weaved with nylon or cotton thread. These are made with tape - when two sets of tapes are interlaced with each other at right angles. Similarly a fabric is also made by interlacing two sets of yams at right angles. This whole process of interlacing two sets of yams at right angles to make a fabric is called weaving. Weaving is the process in which the weaver interlaces two sets of yarns at right angles.to each other to form a fabric. Weaving is done on looms. Hand operated looms are called handlooms and power operated ones are called power looms. Weaving is also done by fitting one set of yarns on the loom which forms the length of the fabric. These are called the warps. The other set of yarns interlaced at right angles with the warps, are called wefts. The yarns can be interlaced in many different ways. These different ways of interlacing of yarns is called weaving. There are many types of weaves used to make different kinds of fabrics like cambric, popline, matt, satin, velvet, towels, denims, etc. Blending is the process of making thread from more than one kind of fibres. You all must have heard of fabrics with names like terecot and cotswool. These are the names of mixed fabrics. Cotsu^ooZ is a mixture of cotton and wool, and terewool of wool and terene.'At the yarn stage itself, two types of fibres are mixed, pulled out and twisted together to form the yarn.. 2 Si3?/-In.s{ritc(!OT!aI Maleriol So the question comes how the fabric is prepared? Take a cloth Production of and pull out a thread. Untwist to loosen this thread. You will see that Textile/Fabric it is made up of smaller threads or hair like strands. Pull out one of these. This single hair like strand is called a fibre. NOTES A fibre actually is a hair like strand from which all types of fabrics are made. Then question arises how many_ types of fibres are there? 1.3.2 Classification of Fibres It is usually seen that the fibres of a thread may be made of wool or cotton. You may pull fibres from a ball of cotton. On pulling you see that these fibres are very short. These are called staple fibres. If you pull fibres from a nylon, fabric, you will find that these are long fibres. Such fibres are called filament fibres or simply filaments. Hence, you can classify fibres into two groups. • Short fibres -also called • Staple fibre • Long fibres -also called - Filament fibre The classification of fibres can also be done on the basis of their origin! For example, 1. Natural Fibres:'The fibres which are obtained from natural sources are called natural fibres, for example, fibres from plants and animals. Some more examples of fibres from natural sources are cotton, Jute, silk, wool, etc, The natural fibres are further divided into two categories: • 'Vegetable Fibres: As is understood from the name vegetable fibres are obtained from different plants. Some are well known and useful to man. For example, cotton, jute and coir. Cotton is obtained from seed of the plant, jute is obtained from the stem of a plant and coir is the outer covering of coconut. • Animal Fibres: The animal fibres are obtained from different animal sources. For example, we get wool from sheep and goat. 'We get wool from their hair. Wool can also be obtained from the hair of rabbits and camels. Another animal fibre you all are familiar with is silk. It is the secretion of an insect called the silk worm. 2. Man-made Fibres: Unlike the natural fibres these type of fibres ate obtained from chemical substance. These are called manmade fibres. They are rayon, polyester, nylon, acrylic (cashmilon) etc. So this may be called the second way to classify fibres? For example; • Natural fibres -are obtained from- Plants and animals • Man-made fibres -are obtained from - Chemical substances The classification of fibres can be better understood from the chart given below; Self-Instructional Materia! 3 <• li. :i: « 3 ! • *•;Z-. h r>. > •. y ! Fabric Pr'Oduction 'and Pi'ocessing. FIBRE _4 ) . Onbasisofleasth, On basis of brigm i-, *> NOTES T I 'f- > •* ■ '.Naniral ’ ■ ^ • StaJjle Obtirt) 'riiauirntdoiig)^--' . r I n I . I' e.g. A-s- ■ . ■Ve'getables •animals' , I > / eoftou; Sillc, . e.g. ^ • 'tRaybn ' • Nylon, Cotton Jute- . 'VVoelSilk Polyester Acn’lk. Kylon. Wool. RayoHj . •/f . Polyester, Polyester' Cotton, - Wool, Acrylic • - Jute, -Silk i r Figure 1.1; Classification of Fibre ■ SynthetiC'is .^iiotheT-,‘nafi®, for'-manmade*fabrics-. When'yO!as:go. to the market to buy fabrics,‘yoU'must;'have heard frdmi.the?shopke^er'-±h&t‘it-is.-a synthet-iomaterial. D'on-;t:get‘^isturh:ed..-The firskinan-inatietfi medSiiknbytfnVas • ,* ■ rayon^and was .produced.iin;the'4'atter- part oEil9th.,■.centui;y>.vManMiiade fibres ' ; are generally filament fibrpy,-Qther,example,s.are-nylon, pblyes. ietr, and acrylic: ; ' rf t] lil it, l: ,» ■ - -fc ?* j . r. ■ *' ,A k' <. ■fv ... Mari-made (kits 'Technicallexiilej ieGtirMld9y''.-'-5;:. Staple fibre'processing I .Medidattexfltes -1 . ■ I • ^ v; ■i .. l■nt \fd: ■■ 1 V I '' 7. f i \ :{■ ■ / i-.c-' t J-4 - *4' V. ■ 31 -njTf i.«v-- Br' ..* ' ■" T " y 1' <•5 I- ■; • Figure 1.2:, Fibre Production ' 4 Self-lnUTUGliono.l}daie.T^ j f * Table 1.1; Machinery Used in Textile Fabric Production Production of Textile/Fabric Weaving Knitting Braiding ■ Air-jet ■ Warp knitting ■ Radial braiding NOTES ■ Rapier ■ Stitch-bonding ■ 3D-Rotary ' ■ Narrow fabric ■ Ultrasonic-tube­ braiding welding machine ■ Double-need bar Raschel 1.3.3 Identification of Fibres Burning Test: This test is helpful in identifying the quality of fibres used in the production of a fabric. Once fibres are identified it will help the buyer to choose as per requirement, and not be cheated by salesmen. The method used in the burning test is:- • First, take out a yarn from the fabric, • Second, burn one end of the yarn either with a match stick or burning candle. Third, check the following: 1. How the fibre catches fire? 2. Notice the type of flame and its colour. 3. Notice the smell after burning the fibre. 4. Check the ash left behind after burning the fibre. All the above points will help you to identify the quality of fibres used in the manufacturing of a piece of fabric, Table 1.2: Identification of Fibres Fibre Inflame Type of Flame Smell ASH Cotton and Catches fire Continues to Smell of Light feathery Rayon eqasily ’ burn with a burning ash bright yellow flame paper Silk and Does not Burnes with a Smell of Black Wool catch fire yellow flame, burning hair crushable • easily Does not bead continue to burn Nylon, Does not Shrinks away ' No definite Hard, Polyter catch fire from flame.