<<

Baekje Cultural Land

1. Baekje Cultural Land 2. Baekje history and culture museum

- 1 - Baekje Cultural Land 1. Entrance

Baekje Cultural Land, the Revival of Baekje Welcome to Baekje Cultural Land, a reconstruction of the ancient Kingdom of Baekje. Baekje dominated the south-western part of the Korean Peninsula from 18 B.C. to 600 A.D. In addition to Baekje, two other kingdoms concurrently occupied the peninsula. They were , which was based in the north of and eastern , and , based in the south-east of the Korean Peninsula. These three kingdoms influenced each other’s development through a series of conflicts and alliances which unfolded over a 700-year period known as the Three Kingdoms Period. During the 4th century, Baekje’s territory extended towards China under the powerful authoritarian leadership of King Geunchogo. In the following century, the king adopted as the national faith and cultivated an independent Buddhist culture. In fact, Baekje was described in various Chinese historical sources as a kingdom with numerous Buddhist temples and pagodas. This brilliant Buddhist culture contributed to the foundation of ancient Japanese culture. During a time when means of transportation weren’t as developed as they are today, Baekje was the conduit for Northeast Asian cultural exchange between China and Japan in terms of art, religion and academic studies. Here at Baekje Cultural Land, you will be introduced to the magnificent culture of Baekje. The palaces, temples, pagodas and tombs that you will see here were reconstructed following ten years of

- 2 - intensive historical research. At the Baekje Historical Museum, which is located next to Baekje Cultural Land, you can experience a variety of educational activities relating to the history of Baekje. There is a wealth of fascinating things to see at Baekje Cultural Land. We hope you enjoy discovering the splendor and beauty of the Baekje Kingdom!

- 3 - Baekje Cultural Land 2. , the Planned City

Buyeo, the Planned City This is a reproduction of the palace of Buyeo, which was built according to the details contained in historical records. Buyeo, the third capital of Baekje, was a meticulously planned city built on a site that was formerly a wasteland. The people of Baekje constructed a fortress, a palace, government offices, temples, roads and waterways and established the infrastructure of the new city. But why did Baekje relocate the capital city to Buyeo? Originally, the capital city of Baekje was located where is today. In the 5th century, however, Baekje was invaded by Goguryeo, the kingdom based in the north of Korea, and was forced to retreat to Gongju, where it overcame a further series of crises before successfully reestablishing itself. In the early part of the 6th century, the king of Baekje risked relocating the capital again, this time to Buyeo, because although Gongju had certain defensive advantages, the region was too small and limited to allow further expansion of the city. The site chosen for the new capital was located on broad plains and in close proximity to a large river that allowed access to international sea trade routes. Despite many hardships and adversities such as natural disasters and enemy attacks, Baekje finally succeeded in constructing the new capital. The city of Buyeo was built by the determination of the people of Baekje and their fervent desire to revive the kingdom. Now let’s enter the palace of Buyeo, Sabi Castle.

- 4 - Baekje Cultural Land 3. Junggungjeon (Central Palace)

Junggungjeon (Central Palace) This is a reproduction of the palace where the King of Baekje conducted the affairs of the kingdom. As it was located in the middle of the palace complex, it was often referred to as Junggungjeon, or the ‘Central Palace’. However, the original name of the building was Cheonjeongjeon, as indicated by the signboard hanging from the roof. The name Cheonjeongjeon has special significance. In the ancient Baekje Kingdom, there was a rock called Cheonjeongdae, where people went to seek advice and approval from heaven about matters of importance. When the administrators of Baekje needed to make important decisions, rituals were held at Cheonjeongdae and opinions were gathered in order to make a final decision. There is a famous story that is often told about Cheonjeongdae. Whenever Baekje was preparing to elect a new prime minister, they wrote down the names of three or four candidates and placed it on this rock. After a few days, only one of the names was marked with a on the document. The people believed that the candidate with a seal had been approved by the heavens. This building, where the political decisions of Baekje were made, was named after the rock Cheonjeongdae. We hope that you are charmed by the desire of the ancient people to follow the rules of heaven, and that you enjoy your time here at the heart of Baekje politics.

- 5 - Baekje Cultural Land 4. Donggungjeon (East Palace)

Donggungjeon (East Palace) Now let’s take a look around the reproduction of Donggungjeon, which was the center of the kingdom’s administration. Baekje is known to have had twenty-two administrative ministries. Approximately 1,500 years ago, the kingdom had already established a number of different administrative divisions, each one specializing in the control of a particular branch of government such as finance, religion, law, defense, diplomacy and education. Baekje also convened a council composed exclusively of noblemen each time there was a need to discuss government affairs or elect a new prime minister. Since the council was held near Jeongsa Rock in a temple close to Sabi Castle, it was known as the Jeongsa Rock Council. The gathering of noblemen would decide matters by a majority vote system. This systematic administration organization and political institution helped Baekje grow into the dominant kingdom on the Korean Peninsula. If we now leave the palace and walk to the right, you will see the famous Five-story Wooden Pagoda, the pride of Baekje Cultural Land. Shall we go?

- 6 - Baekje Cultural Land 5. King Seong and Neungsa Temple

We have arrived at Neungsa Temple, which was built to honor the spirit of King Seong. Only the site of the former temple now remains at Neungsan-ri. This is a replica of the original Neungsa Temple, which was built according to evidence provided by relics excavated from the site. There is a very sad story about the foundation of Neungsa Temple. It tells of the tragic demise of King Seong. We will hear about it from King Wideok, who was the son of King Seong and the founder of the temple. [King Wideok] I am entirely to blame for my father’s death. If I hadn’t insisted that he attack Silla, he wouldn’t have died such a humiliating death. [Narration] How did your father die and why do you feel so guilty about it? [King Wideok] Our troops advanced on Gwanseo Castle to attack Silla but, unfortunately, our repeated assaults were unsuccessful. To make matters worse, I was surrounded by the enemy and separated from our troops. My father tried to come to my rescue, but he was ambushed by Silla soldiers on the way and killed. Every time I think of that day, my heart breaks. [Narration] So you feel guilty about your father’s death because you believe it is your fault. [King Wideok] I do. I hoped that I would be able to expiate the guilt I felt by retiring to live out the rest of my days in a temple. But I could not abandon the people of Baekje - it was my duty to serve them on behalf of my deceased father. So I determined to revive Baekje in honor of my father and his kingdom, and built Neungsa Temple to pray for the repose of my father’s soul. [Narration] As we have learnt from this story, Neungsa Temple was built out of the respect King Wideok had for his father, King Seong, and his ardent wish to revive the Kingdom of Baekje using the power of Buddhist faith.

- 7 - Baekje Cultural Land 6. Five-story Wooden Pagoda of Neungsa Temple

Five-story Wooden Pagoda of Neungsa Temple This pagoda is the first reproduction to be made in Korea of a Baekje-style wooden pagoda. It is not merely a copy of the original, but a work of art constructed by the most skilled Korean artisans who participated in the design and construction process. No nails were used in the construction of the pagoda, so only elaborate woodworking techniques hold it together. The complicated techniques are difficult to master even with the availability of modern technology. Take a look at the inside of the tower. Can you see the central pillar embellished with a motif, extending right to the top? This is the frame of the wooden pagoda, and under the pillar, the sarira of Buddha was enshrined. Pagodas in Asia were produced to serve a purpose different to towers in the West. In Medieval Europe, a tower served either as a watchtower to detect enemy activity or a belfry to direct the sound of a bell towards the heavens. In the East, however, Buddhist pagodas were built to enshrine sariras, the crystalline, bead-like objects that remained among the cremated ashes of a Buddha. These kinds of Buddhist pagodas were first found in , the birthplace of Buddhism. Indian Buddhist pagodas look like large, upside-down bowls, but pagodas in East Asia, including Korea, resemble a tower of stacked cubes. The main material used to build pagodas differs from country to country. For instance, mud bricks are used in China, while wood is used in Japan and stone in Korea. Initially, the ancient kingdoms of the Korean Peninsula constructed their pagodas out of wood. However, stone eventually became a more popular material as timber was susceptible to fire damage and the construction of a wooden pagoda was a highly complicated process.

- 8 - Baekje Cultural Land 7. Ancient Tombs of Baekje

This Ancient Tomb contains the restored and relocated tombs of Baekje kings and members of the nobility from the Buyeo Era. By examining the tombs found in Buyeo, we can learn a great deal about the ancient tomb culture of the Baekje Kingdom. In ancient times a tomb was regarded as a sacred place because people believed that this world was connected to the next world. People were interred with funerary goods - such as everyday items or valuable items that they were particularly fond of -or they believed would accompany them to the next world. The relics recovered from these tombs are crucial to our understanding of Baekje’s culture and society. The style and type of funerary goods differed by region and period. First, let’s have a look at the tomb in the middle. Can you see the square hole carved in it? This was added when they restored and transferred the tomb here to reveal its interior to the public. The tomb was originally constructed by digging a hole in the ground that narrowed as it became deeper, and then erecting four stone walls inside. The body was interred along with the funerary goods and the tomb was covered with soil. The five other tombs displayed here were constructed after this one. If you look at one of the tombs nearby you will see the narrow entrance. The entrance opens into an internal passageway. Outwardly this tomb appears similar to the last tomb we saw, but its interior is completely different. This one has a square stone chamber and an entrance passageway set to one side. Such passageways were built apart from the chamber due to the belief that the tomb was the occupant’s living space in the afterlife.

- 9 - Baekje Cultural Land 8. Gyebaek, the Great General of Baekje

Do you know the story about Sparta’s King Leonidas, who led 300 Spartans in a battle against a million Persian soldiers? The story was made into the movie titled 300. Then, do you know that Baekje also had a great general? His name was Gyebaek, and this is a replica of his house. Let’s listen to the story of the time when General Gyebaek and his elite troops fought against the invading troops of Silla. In 660AD, Gyebaek fought with just 5,000 soldiers against 50,000 invading troops from Silla. Standing before his soldiers, he delivered a rousing speech. [Gyebaek] Many years ago, 5,000 soldiers from the state of Yue in China defeated 700,000 troops from the state of Wu. If we are prepared to die for our kingdom, there is no reason why we cannot win this battle! My leadership, together with your desperate courage, will give us the strength to defeat the 50,000 Silla troops, and Baekje will emerge victorious! [Narration] It was actually a hopeless war. Before entering the battlefield, Gyebaek stopped by his house to kill his wife and children, choosing an honorable death over losing their kingdom and risking enslavement. Wearing his blood-stained armor, Gyebaek ran towards the battlefield, thus beginning one of the fiercest battles in the history of Korea. The desperate fighting by Baekje resulted in four consecutive victories, thereby raising the morale of Baekje’s soldiers. For its part, Silla dispatched a lone 16-year-old soldier to the enemy camp as part of the Silla general’s secret scheme to boost his troops’ morale. The young soldier was apprehended by Baekje soldiers, but when General Gyebaek saw the brave young soldier, he exclaimed: [Gyebaek] How could Silla send a soldier as young as you to this cruel battlefield? I do not want to spill your young blood on Baekje’s land. I will let you return alive. [Narration] However, following the young soldier’s return to the Silla camp, Silla troops, including the young soldier, again attacked Baekje. Gyebaek could not spare his life twice and so he cut off the boy

- 10 - soldier’s head and sent it to Silla. The death of the 16-year-old boy changed the atmosphere of battle completely. The grueling battle ended at last with the death of General Gyebaek and a victory for Silla. There’s a saying that a winner is remembered but a loyalist is permanently imprinted on the mind. Gyebaek, the last loyalist of Baekje and a great symbol of devotion and fidelity, is honored here.

- 11 - Baekje Cultural Land 9. Aristocrat, Sataek

This residence is a replica of the house of a member of the Baekje nobility, a man named Sataekjijeok. He held a senior governmental post, similar to that of a modern-day prime minister, and exercised political influence over a long career. Sataekjijeok left behind a stele inscribed with information about his life. [Tourist] Oh, the life of a Baekje nobleman must have been interesting. What does the inscription on the stele say? [Narration] After his resignation, Sataekjijeok lamented the rapid passage of time. He then built a temple in order to devote the remainder of his life to Buddhism. [Tourist] He lived a wealthy, honorable life as a prime minister, so what did he regret? [Narration] Wealth and power are of little significance when you’re getting old and weak. Even a wealthy and powerful man, such as Sataekjijeok, regretted that time had passed so quickly. It is a life lesson for all of us.

- 12 - Baekje Cultural Land 10. Architect, Abiji

[Abiji] Welcome to my house! I am Abiji, the architect of Baekje. I was regarded as the best architect in the kingdom. Indeed, the ‘Nine-story Wooden Pagoda of Hwangnyong Temple’, one of the best examples of ancient architecture found on the Korean Peninsula, counts among my greatest works. You might wonder why I built pagodas in Silla, the neighboring kingdom of Baekje. At that time, Silla didn’t possess the knowledge necessary to build such an enormous pagoda and so they asked Baekje for assistance. I was soon dispatched to Silla where I began to design the pagoda. Before long I’d begun its construction, but I had a dream one night about the fall of Baekje. I suddenly felt anxious and wanted to return to my homeland. At that moment, the heaven and earth shook, and an old monk and a strong man suddenly appeared before me. They built one of the pillars of the pagoda and disappeared again, as suddenly as they had appeared. Only then did I realize that it was my destiny to build this pagoda. After the experience, I gathered my wits together and devoted myself to finishing the pagoda. Umm…. It is still a poignant memory for me. In those days, many technical architects, myself included, were sent to neighboring countries. The excellent architectural skills of Baekje were even used frequently in Japan. In fact, you can still find numerous wooden pagodas and treasures in Japan today that were only made possible by Baekje technology.

- 13 - Baekje Cultural Land 11. Medical Care in Baekje

[Wangyuneungta] Welcome, welcome! Did you come to see me to ask me to treat your illness? Then you’ve come to the right place. I am a doctor from Baekje and my name is Wangyuneungta. Allow me to show you around my house. The place at the front is my living space and the room to the left is my office. Sometimes my patients visit me here, so I’ve arranged my house so I can treat them more conveniently. Also, when I have time, I study medicine in my office. Do you know how we used to treat people? Let me tell you how I treated soldiers who had been wounded on the battlefield. It was winter time and many suffered from frostbite because of the cold weather. At that time, there was none of the ointments or drugs that we would use in such a situation today. When I had patients suffering from frostbite, I applied paulownia tree oil mixed with hair to their wounds. If patients came to me with bleeding wounds, I stopped the bleeding by applying a type of ore powder named ‘red ochre’. Indeed, I made full use of the various folk remedies available to me to treat our wounded soldiers.

- 14 - Baekje Cultural Land 12. Scholar Danyangi’s House

[Danyangi] Welcome! I am the scholar Danyangi. Please allow me to introduce myself. My kingdom, Baekje, had an early scholarly system under which professionals in a given field were designated as masters. These days, a master’s is an academic degree granted by a college or university. However, masters were government posts during the Baekje Period. Having proved my proficiency in the Five Classics of Confucianism, I entered government service as a Five Classics Master. Later on, I was dispatched to Japan to disseminate Confucianism. Owing to its advantageous geographical proximity to China, Baekje accepted and developed Confucianism earlier than the other kingdoms on the Korean Peninsula. Baekje incorporated Confucian ideology into its political thinking and organized its national institutions according to Confucian principles. Many specialists, including myself, were dispatched to Japan. Have you heard of the scholar Wangin? He was a legend among masters. Upon receiving an official invitation from the of Japan, he moved to Japan earlier than I did. Scholar Wangin disseminated various modern technologies and studies, including Confucianism, and he is also said to have composed a number of Japanese popular songs. Furthermore, he founded the Asuka Culture of Japan. Following in the footsteps of the great scholar Wangin, I was proud to spread the excellent culture and technology of Baekje to Japan.

- 15 - Baekje Cultural Land 13. Musician, Mimaji

[Mimaji] Hello, everybody! Do you like music and dance? I believe that music and dance, both traditional and modern, enrich the lives of everybody. Let me introduce myself. I am Mimaji, the musician from Baekje. I was sent to Japan during the 7th century to teach the traditional music and dance of Baekje, especially, a masked dance drama performed to honor Buddha and propagate Buddhism. I learnt it in China and spread my knowledge of the tradition to Japan. It was popularly performed in Japanese temples and is still handed down from generation to generation. Masks that were used in those days are also preserved in temples all over Japan, thus providing ample opportunities to learn about this traditional performance art. Many musicians travelled to Japan ahead of me. The adventures of Gwisin in the 5th century are a good example of this phenomenon. Gwisin introduced stringed instruments to Japan and taught a famous player of the geomungo, a traditional Korean stringed instrument. Do you know that five figurines of Baekje musicians decorate the top of the famous Baekje Gilt-bronze Incense Burner? Each of them is depicted playing a traditional Baekje musical instrument. You can see the artifact at the Buyeo National Museum.

- 16 - Baekje Cultural Land 14. Metal Craftsman, Dari

[Dari] Welcome! I am Dari, the metal craftsman from Baekje. I was regarded as the best metal craftsman in the kingdom. I am greatly honored to have had the opportunity to make a bracelet for the queen. Just as modern jewelry is stamped with the brand-name and gold content, so I engraved my name and the weight of the bracelet on the inside of the queen’s bracelet. Let me tell you about the metal craftsmanship of Baekje. It was a period when Baekje’s independent creativity and aesthetic values came to full fruition. Metal-working techniques became more sophisticated, and ever more elaborate metal arts and crafts were produced. Buddhist motifs, such as flame and lotus patterns, were popular decorations. During this period, many metal craftsmen were sent to Japan to introduce Baekje’s brilliant metal craftsmanship to Japanese metalworkers, so many of the relics excavated from the tombs of ancient Japanese kings bear similarities to the artworks of Baekje.

- 17 - Baekje Cultural Land 15. Blacksmith, Takso

[Takso] Oh, what brings you all the way here? Did you come to learn ironworking techniques from me? I am Takso, a blacksmith from the Baekje Kingdom. Iron manufacturing involves extracting iron from iron ore and producing goods for diverse purposes. People endowed with exquisite ironworking skills, including myself, were known as artisans. I was the best of the best iron artisans in Baekje. I received an order from the King and was dispatched to Japan to teach Baekje techniques to Japanese ironworkers. Do you know how excellent the iron manufacturing techniques of Baekje were? My kingdom, Baekje, developed a perfect iron extraction technique and produced huge quantities of quality iron from iron ore. Moreover, the iron working skills of Baekje were also outstanding, and Baekje produced a variety of iron products, such as weaponry and farming implements. The iron products of Baekje were not only luxurious but also elaborate. They were extremely popular, especially in China and Japan. I can’t remember how many nights I spent working late to make enough products to meet the demand. I know that Korea is known for its steel industry these days. But I hope you understand that it was preceded by the ancient, advanced technology developed by Baekje metal craftsmen.

- 18 - Baekje Cultural Land 16. Tile Expert, Manamunno

[Manamunno] If you are interested in Baekje roof tiles, you’ve come to the right place. My name is Manamunno and I am an expert tile-maker from Baekje. I understand that so far you’ve met experts specializing in such diverse fields as architecture, medicine and music. However, I think tile-making is the most exceptional skill of all. Have you ever seen lotus-patterned roof tiles or bricks decorated with goblins, clouds or dragon motifs? The roof tiles and bricks of the most important buildings of Baekje were decorated with delicate, sophisticated patterns. You can imagine the prestige and the superior social status of the tile-makers of Baekje. We even held government positions as tile masters! In those days, roof tiles and bricks were rare and precious construction materials. These days, anybody can use tiles to build houses, but during the Baekje Period, only palaces and famous temples were tiled. As roof tiles signified luxury and status, their production was strictly regulated by the government. Tile-making experts like me reigned supreme. The honor and prestige bestowed upon the masters of Baekje fostered the continuing development of technology.

- 19 - Baekje Cultural Land 17. Potter, Sinhangogwi

[Sinhangogwi] I am Sinhangogwi, the potter of Baekje. You must be tired after walking all the way to my house. I think you’ve heard a lot of information about Baekje’s exquisite craftsmanship. Now I will talk to you about its pottery-making techniques. Pottery manufacturing techniques developed rapidly following the establishment of the kingdom. As you’ve already seen in museums and other places, Baekje pottery was not glazed, unlike that produced in other kingdoms of the Korean Peninsula. In fact, there was much greater emphasis on practicality. Baekje’s pottery manufacturing techniques were later introduced to Japan. I was also sent to Japan where I taught advanced techniques to Japanese artisans. We, the potters of Baekje, enabled the Japanese to develop their own highly refined style of ceramics.

- 20 - Baekje Cultural Land 18. Brewer, Inbeon

[Inbeon] Hic! Hello everyone! I am Inbeon, the master brewer of Baekje. As I’m in charge of presenting delicious alcoholic beverages to the king, I drink all the time and am often drunk. Hic! Unlike today, alcohol was a sacred beverage in ancient times, as people believed it helped to establish close relationships between people and connected people with heaven. Hic! Thus ancient people drank alcohol at a proper time or place. Hic! I was the person who introduced this sacred alcohol to Japan. I was sent to Japan during the 5th century and taught Japanese people how to brew alcoholic beverages. Because of this, Japanese people still regard me as the god of alcohol. Not only brewing techniques, but also recreational games from Baekje were introduced to Japan. The most popular one was a competitive game that involved throwing pieces of wood in much the way one throws dice. This game was very popular in Japan, but it was later corrupted by gambling, and the Japanese government was forced to ban it. Ho-ho! Alcohol or games - everything should be done in moderation. Don’t you agree?

- 21 - Baekje Cultural Land 19. Buddha Craftsman, Dori

[Dori] I am Dori, the best craftsman of Buddha statues in Baekje, and this is my house. You should feel honored to visit my home. I am a busy man and cannot spare much time for you, but I will tell you some interesting facts about the sculpture techniques I used. The techniques used in Baekje were far superior to those used in the neighboring kingdoms. Baekje sculptures are harmoniously balanced, have a delicate shape, and radiate a soft, elegant beauty. Later on, our excellent craftsmanship greatly influenced the neighboring kingdom of Silla, as well as Japan. I was sent to Japan where I played an important role in assisting the development of Japanese Buddhist art. Many of my artworks can still be seen in Japan today. Japanese people named the style of my work after me, so these artworks are referred to as being crafted in the ‘Dori style’. They worship me as the founder of Japanese sculpture. Although I make statues of Buddha, I am also familiar with architectural engineering. There is one particular occasion I can recall when my exceptional architectural skill was demonstrated. During the 7th century, Japanese people tried to place a large, gilt-bronze Buddha in their first Buddhist temple, known as the Asuka. As the statue was so tall, it seemed an impossible feat to erect it inside the temple without first smashing the entrance. The people from the temple came to visit me and requested my help. Of course, I knew how to solve the problem and gave them my advice. Are you wondering how I did it? Ha-ha, it’s my secret so I won’t tell you! Why don’t you use your imagination to find a solution to the problem?

- 22 - Baekje Cultural Land 20. Weaver, Seoso

[Seoso] It must have been difficult for you to come all the way to visit me. Welcome to my house. I am Seoso, the Baekje weaver responsible for introducing weaving technology to Japan. You may well know that weaving is the skill used to produce textured fabrics. In those days, we produced textiles on a loom equipped with a spindle whorl for spinning fibers into thread. Weaving was generally the duty of women from farming families. The completed fabrics were used to make clothing or were handed over to tax collectors as a form of tax payment. The most luxurious fabric, silk, was often exported to China or Japan. The advanced weaving techniques employed by Baekje craftspeople were later exported to Japan. The expertise of many weavers, along with the considerable quantities of silk that the Baekje King offered to Japan, helped them to establish their own industry. Ancient Japan owed a debt to the Kingdom of Baekje for its highly developed weaving and dyeing techniques.

- 23 - Baekje Cultural Land 21. A symbol of Chastity, Mrs. Domi

[Narration] Mr. and Mrs. Domi were common people of Baekje who lived in Hanseong. Mrs. Domi was highly respected by her neighbors as a woman of great beauty, refined behavior, and fidelity to her husband. One day, the king of Baekje happened to hear about Mrs. Domi and summoned Mr. Domi to the palace. [King] I have heard of your wife’s reputation. She is known for being very faithful to you and I’d like to test her. Will you bet on her chastity?

[Mr. Domi] Your Majesty, I’m afraid that my wife will never change her mind and be unfaithful. [King] Do you really think so? You must have great confidence in her. I shall test her faithfulness.

[Narration] The king summoned Mrs. Domi to the palace and ordered her to stay. He had a servant dress in his own clothing and then sent the servant to Mrs. Domi. The disguised servant tried to get Mrs. Domi to serve him, saying that he had won a bet with Mr. Domi. However, Mrs. Domi, who desperately wanted to remain faithful to her beloved husband, also disguised a maid by making her wear her own clothes, and had her serve the servant in her place. When the king heard of the deception he was furious. In a fit of rage, the king blinded Mr. Domi and sent him far away on a boat. Mrs. Domi was then captured by the King’s soldiers.

[King] Your behavior was absolutely disgraceful, but I will forgive you just this one time. From now on, you will stay with me and live in wealth and honor. [Mrs. Domi] Your Majesty, I’ve lost my husband so I have no one else to rely on. And how could I dare to disobey your order? But I am dirty now so please allow me to take a bath.

- 24 - [Narration] Mrs. Domi managed to escape from the king. She ran towards the river, but when she reached it she began to sob as she had no way of getting across. At that moment, a small boat floated towards her as if the gods had been moved by her predicament to help her. The boat took Mrs. Domi to the island where her husband had been exiled. The couple was finally reunited and they ran away to a different kingdom where they lived happily ever after. The story of Mrs. Domi’s chastity is touching, don’t you think? The tale influenced many ancient works of Korean literature.

- 25 - Baekje Cultural Land 22. House of Baekje

These exhibits are replicas of typical Baekje houses. From now on, we will see what kinds of houses were inhabited by the early citizens of Baekje. These huts are called ‘raised houses’. They were raised above the ground for two reasons – to prevent damage from moisture and damp and to reduce the chance of intrusion by wild animals. However, as the raised houses did not have heating systems, they were mostly used for storage. This style of house was commonly found in Southeast Asia, where weather is hot and humid, but was rarely found in Korea. In fact, in those times, the kingdoms on the Korean peninsula, including Baekje, generally built this style of residence. Now let’s take a look around the raised house. Can you see the dugout huts, which are similar to those found in the Amazon? These dugout huts were typical of the housing built during the early days of the Baekje Kingdom. Let’s enter one of the huts. There is a brazier in the middle to warm the hut and cook food. Most braziers were sunk into the floor and surrounded by a heaped circle of stones. Some braziers, however, were placed on stones on the floor of the hut and topped with clay. We’ve learnt here about both the raised houses and dugout huts of the early Baekje Period. They look very different to modern houses, don’t they! Why not take the time to look around and try to imagine how the people of Baekje lived from day to day?

- 26 - Baekje Cultural Land 23. Military Servant, Ureum

This is a replica of the house of Ureum, an uncle of King Onjo who served in the army. King Onjo founded the Kingdom of Baekje in 18 B.C. Ureum held the military post of Ubo and managed all of Baekje’s military affairs. He exceeded the king’s expectations and frequently thwarted enemy attempts to invade Baekje. Why don’t we travel back in time and meet Ureum there? [Soldier] Your Highness, we are in great difficulty now. Three thousand enemy troops have surrounded the castle. [King Onjo] This is terrible news. Send for General Ureum immediately. [Ureum] Your Highness, you sent for me? How can I serve you? [King Onjo] General Ureum, 3,000 enemy troops have surrounded the castle. What should we do? [Ureum] Your Highness, I have a plan in mind so please don’t worry unduly. As I observed the enemy troops’ movements, I noticed that they don’t appear to have brought enough food supplies with them, since they were in such a hurry to surround our castle. As the weather is very cold now, it will be impossible for them to find food around the castle and they will soon run out of energy. We simply need to guard the main gate and defend ourselves against attack. [King Onjo] However, if we just let them leave, they will return sooner or later, and better prepared. [Ureum] Your Highness, don’t worry about the matter. I will select especially agile soldiers to deal with them. [Narration] As General Ureum anticipated, the enemy forces retreated after ten days due to hunger. Ureum ordered his soldiers to chase the tired troops as they retreated, and successfully defeated them.

- 27 - Baekje Cultural Land 24. Nobleman, Maryeo

This is the restored house of Maryeo, a nobleman of the Baekje Kingdom. Just like Ureum, whom we learned about earlier, Maryeo was loyal to King Onjo and helped him to move south and establish the new kingdom of Baekje. Maryeo’s House is divided into two sections: one section was the living space used by Maryeo and his family; the other was for their servants. Every corner of the house was filled with high quality furniture, indicative of his high social status and the fashion of Baekje’s nobility. What kind of person was Maryeo? He played a major role in carrying out King Onjo’s plan to move the kingdom from the northern part of the peninsula and re-establish it in the south. His efforts were rewarded with his appointment to the position of Jwabo, the highest post in the Baekje government, comparable to that of a modern-day prime minister. Baekje was able to develop into a powerful kingdom on the Korean Peninsula thanks to Maryeo’s inestimable efforts. We recommend you take some time to look around his house and imagine the lifestyle of a notable member of the Baekje nobility.

- 28 - Baekje Cultural Land 25. Wirye Fortress and the Foundation of Baekje

This is a reproduction of Wirye Fortress, the first capital of the Baekje Kingdom. Wirye Fortress was located south of the Han River in the area currently occupied by Seoul. Let’s now learn about the foundation mythology of the Baekje Kingdom. The founder of Baekje, Onjo, and Biryu were both the adopted sons of the King of Goguryeo. Goguryeo was the powerful kingdom based in the northern part of the Korean Peninsula. When the real son of the king suddenly reappeared, the two princes lost their rights to the succession. Thus, they led their faithful servants and their followers southwards. When the two princes arrived at the Han River basin, they decided to separate and establish bases in different regions. Onjo constructed his base just south of the Han River, at a site where food was plentiful and which was easy to defend against marauding enemies. This was Wirye Fortress, located in what is now modern Seoul. Meanwhile, the other prince, Biryu, established a city at , which provided convenient access to the main trade routes to China. It was located near to where Incheon International Airport is now. Gradually, the Seoul site became more prosperous and naturally absorbed the people from Incheon. The people who had left Goguryeo were reunited again, and Onjo named the new kingdom as ‘Baekje’. Wirye Fortress, which survived for 500 of the 700 years of Baekje’s existence, became the main stronghold of Baekje, allowing it to develop into a powerful kingdom. Baekje was the first Korean kingdom to pioneer the Seoul region, thus laying the basis for the striking development experienced by Seoul today.

- 29 - Baekje history and culture museum 1. Seoul Era

This is the first exhibition hall of the Baekje Historical Museum, where you will find a general overview of the history of Baekje. The duration of the Baekje Kingdom is divided into three eras by the location of the capital city – the Seoul Era, the Gongju Era, and the Buyeo Era. Let’s learn about the Seoul Era first. The Seoul Era extended from the 1st to the 5th century. It began with the establishment of the Kingdom of Baekje near modern Seoul, and the era ended when the capital was relocated to Gongju. The first capital was located in close proximity to the large Han River and wide, fertile plains. These were significant advantages for the developing kingdom. Since then, Seoul has remained a pivotal region of the Korean Peninsula. The golden days of Baekje were in the 4th century, during the reign of King Geunchogo. He energetically amassed territory on the strength of possessing a powerful military. He also reinforced the authority of the monarchy and improved diplomatic relations with neighboring countries including China and Japan. The king’s efforts to strengthen Baekje, both internally and externally, helped Baekje to develop into becoming the dominant kingdom of the Korean Peninsula. The Seoul Era was the first 500 years of Baekje's 700-year history! During the Seoul Era, Baekje firmly established its foundations, amassed territory, and developed into becoming one of the powerful kingdoms in the Asian region.

- 30 - Baekje history and culture museum 2. Gongju Era

Let’s move to the second era of the Baekje Kingdom, the Gongju Era. This era began following an invasion by Goguryeo in the 5th century. Goguryeo, the kingdom occupying the northern part of the peninsula, finally took control of the Seoul area, and Baekje was forced to relocate its capital city to Gongju, located 130km south of Seoul. Mountains and rivers surrounded Gongju, and it had natural defensive advantages. The nearby Geumgang River was a benefit as it allowed for exchange with China to continue and the wide plains yielded abundant food supplies for the people of Baekje. Gongju was the center of transportation and economy in the region. Using the area’s geographical advantages, Baekje successfully protected itself from being invaded and was reinvigorated and became powerful once again. It was King Muryeong, the 25th ruler of Baekje, who spearheaded the revival of the kingdom with great success. He appointed individuals to government posts equitably and reasonably. He stabilized the power of the authorities by appointing royal family members as local officials. Furthermore, the king defended Baekje from attacks by Goguryeo and Silla, whilst adopting advanced culture from China through active diplomacy. King Muryeong also cultivated plains in the area to boost the kingdom’s economy. Due to his tireless efforts and wisdom, Baekje emerged triumphant from its period of crisis and became a powerful kingdom once again. The 63 years in Gongju was a difficult period for Baekje after the loss of their original capital to Goguryeo. However, it was also a period for reinvigoration and a time for moving forward and recovering the strong position it had formerly held in East Asia.

- 31 - Baekje history and culture museum 3. Buyeo Era

Lastly, we will learn about the Buyeo Era. In the 6th century, the king of Baekje risked relocating the capital city once more, this time to Buyeo, to enable the kingdom to develop further. Although the second capital, Gongju, was in a great defensive location for protecting the kingdom, it restricted the expansion of Baekje. Thus, the king of Baekje decided to relocate the capital to Buyeo, a region with wide plains and a wide river. After the relocation, Baekje flourished and cultivated all areas of its society including politics, military, and culture, whilst maintaining the authority of the monarchy and increasing exchange with China and Japan. Based on its new-found strength, Baekje actively sought to amass territory and captured 30 castles belonging to the neighboring kingdom, Silla. Silla, in desperate crisis, responded by requesting for assistance from China and began to mount countermeasures against Baekje with Chinese military support. Although Baekje had been strong enough to threaten the collapse of Silla five years before, it was helpless against the Silla-China alliance. The allied forces finally captured the capital of Baekje and it fell in the 7th century A.D. The Buyeo Era was the last of the Baekje kingdoms and the 700 years of the Baekje Dynasty disappeared into history.

- 32 - Baekje history and culture museum 4. Fortresses of Baekje

This model is a reproduction of the construction site of a fortress during the Baekje Period. Baekje possessed excellent architectural techniques in those days. The Pungnap Fortress and the Mongchon Fortress in Seoul, which are still in great condition, are testament to their skills. What do you think the secret was to building these fortress walls that lasted for a thousand years? Please come inside and have a look at the construction process. People trampled and beat the earth with wooden poles to compact the soil. To prevent the soil from spreading and support the wall during construction, they used a frame made out of timber poles and planks. The process was repeated many times to maximize the density and strength of each layer of soil. However, that technique may not be the only reason that the fortress walls endured for 1,000 years. Leaves were another key to building a strong fortress. Thin layers of leaves were placed in between the layers of earth and they served to heighten the viscosity and cohesiveness of the clay and soil. The leaves also had an osmotic effect and drew any moisture in the wall to the outside. This process increased the stability of the fortress walls. The techniques were well ahead of their time and the endeavors of the Baekje people resulted in 1,000–year-old solid fortress walls.

- 33 - Baekje history and culture museum 5. Workshop of Baekje

[Artisan 1] Hey, what pattern do you suggest for this one? [Artisan 2] Why don’t you inscribe a dragon motif to symbolize the authority of the king? [Artisan 1] That sounds good. I’ll bring an awl and hammer right away. [Artisan 2] No, wait, I have a better idea. How about using your new technique and design patterns using tiny gold beads? When the king notices them, he will be very surprised. And you might be given a generous reward! [Artisan] Hahaha, do you think so? This is an opportunity to demonstrate my abilities. If the king offers me a favor, I’ll treat you then. [Narration] Can you feel the atmosphere of a busy workshop of Baekje? Baekje workshops produced a variety of craft items, ranging from accessories to farming implements and diverse household items. Have you ever seen the Gilt-bronze Incense Burner in the Buyeo National Museum? It was also produced in a Baekje workshop. The artisans of Baekje possessed an outstanding aesthetic sense and techniques. How did Baekje retain such excellent metalwork techniques? It was due to the strong support of the government. Baekje had an early government office to manage the workshops of artisans and offered the title and position of "Master" to those who possessed specialized skills. Due to the social atmosphere that respected, honored, and systematically managed artisans, the craftsmanship of Baekje was promoted and encouraged to develop.

- 34 - Baekje history and culture museum 6. Agriculture of Baekje

We just saw a Baekje workshop. This time we will learn about the agriculture of Baekje. Baekje had fertile plains with a large river near its capital, and so agriculture developed early. In addition to the geographical advantages afforded by the capital, the production of iron farming implements accelerated Baekje’s agricultural development. During the 4th century A.D., agricultural productivity rapidly increased. Can you see the farmer in front of you pulling a horse and plowing the wide field alone? The innovative development allowed farmers to plow large fields without expending great amounts of energy and thus resulted in a sudden, dramatic increase in agricultural productivity. Besides that, the government of Baekje also supported agricultural development. There was a government department in charge of forecasting the weather to enable scientific cultivation. In addition, when the harvest was poor, the tax rate was reduced and a considerate measure designed to support farmers. Baekje agriculture developed due to an advantageous location, advanced tools, and the efforts of the Baekje people to apply science to farming methods.

- 35 - 7. Weaving and Farming Family of Baekje history and culture museum Baekje

This is a model of a farming family from Baekje. If you see inside of the room, you will find a weaving scene on the left. Nowadays, fabrics are made with machines in factories, so you might find the scene unfamiliar. Just as Europeans domestically produced cloth by hand before the Industrial Revolution, Baekje people also made fabric at home by spinning fibers and using a loom. Textile production was the responsibility of the women in farming families. The fabrics were used to make clothes or as a form of tax payment instead of grain. Now look at the right side. The woman holding the ladle-like object is ironing the cloth. The iron looks very different from a modern iron. The people of Baekje with higher social class had their clothes pressed using this kind of iron. Various weaving tools have been found from historic residential sites of the Baekje Period. These tools indicate that weaving was common, and performed in most farming families.

- 36 - Baekje history and culture museum 8. Forge of Baekje

Please take a look at the two people in the model hammering iron together. You might think of a medieval forge, where knights’ armor and swords were made. As you already know, iron was one of the most valuable resources in ancient history. As wooden and stone farming tools were superseded by iron implements, agricultural productivity increased enormously. Also, military strength increased as iron weapons replaced bronze weapons, and people in the possession of iron possessed great power and authority. Only advanced iron manufacturing processes permitted the production of quality ironware. Iron manufacturing processes include the extraction of iron from iron ore. Baekje ironworkers possessed excellent extraction techniques, enabling them to produce iron of a high purity. Also, forged iron and iron casting techniques were advanced, and Baekje was able to easily produce various kinds of ironware, such as weapons, horse harnesses, and farming implements. Especially, iron armor and weapons made in Baekje enjoyed wide popularity in China due to their exquisite beauty and quality.

- 37 - Baekje history and culture museum 9. Commerce of Baekje

This is a scene of a very busy market in the Baekje Period. You can see a woodcutter carrying a basket of firewood on his back. A passerby carries the many items he has already purchased in his hands. In those days, markets sprang up around the palace where government offices were clustered, in the main streets leading into and out of the palace gates, and around ports. People generally bartered goods. Although Baekje relocated its capital twice, it was always located near large rivers that flowed to the west and by southern seas to enable exchange with China and Japan. Especially, two large ports namely Gom Port in Gongju and Gudeurae Port in Buyeo were centers for foreign exchange. The specialty goods of Baekje, including silk, ironware, and ceramics, were refined and elaborate, and so the products were very popular in China and Japan. Above all, the strong and beautiful gold-colored iron armor was tremendously popular among Chinese merchants.

- 38 - Baekje history and culture museum 10. Ceramics of Baekje

Do you see the workers putting firewood into the kiln and the artisans drying the pottery? There are people busy firing ceramics here in this scene. This time, we will learn about the ceramic and roof tile-making specialist. The Kingdom of Baekje granted the government position and title of "Masters" to artisans. This position was similar to a leader of a craftsmen’s guild, and was the 8th or 9th most senior in the Baekje government. As such, the Masters were treated with great respect. The “Masters” system developed as a means of quality control. The manufacturing activities required to produce each product were distributed amongst workers, as you can see from this exhibit. It was the Master’s responsibility to manage the artisans, controlling the quality of the end-products, and managing productivity. Baekje dispatched some of these Masters to Japan to propagate their advanced ceramics techniques. Even today, roof tiles adorned with Baekje’s patterns are found at temple sites in Japan.

- 39 - Baekje history and culture museum 11. Buyeo, the Planned City

This is a reproduction of the palace of Buyeo, which was built according to the details contained in historical records. Buyeo, the third capital of Baekje, was a meticulously planned city built on a site that was formerly a wasteland. The people of Baekje constructed a fortress, a palace, government offices, temples, roads and waterways and established the infrastructure of the new city. But why did Baekje relocate the capital city to Buyeo? Originally, the capital city of Baekje was located where Seoul is today. In the 5th century, however, Baekje was invaded by Goguryeo, the kingdom based in the north of Korea, and was forced to retreat to Gongju, where it overcame a further series of crises before successfully reestablishing itself. In the early part of the 6th century, the king of Baekje risked relocating the capital again, this time to Buyeo. Gongju had certain defensive advantages, but the region was too small and limited to allow further expansion of the city. The site chosen for the new capital was located on broad plains and in close proximity to a large river that allowed access to international sea trade routes. Despite many hardships and adversities such as natural disasters and enemy attacks, Baekje finally succeeded in constructing the new capital. The city of Buyeo was built by the determination of the people of Baekje and their fervent desire to revive the kingdom.

- 40 - Baekje history and culture museum 12. Namdang Conference

We will now introduce you to a summit conference of Baekje, known as the Namdang Conference. Just like the national assembly today, there was a council of members of the nobility and a place where they gathered. The Namdang Conference, with its agenda of state affairs, was generally held in the palace. However, when significant or serious issues needed to be discussed the conference was held at religious sites, such as the temple, to authorize the righteousness and sacredness of any decision reached. In the model, can you see the seated king wearing a mystical purple garment? The noblemen are depicted lining up at the venue of the Namdang Conference. The noblemen in the front row wear different colored clothing than the noblemen in the back row. Higher ranking officials wore red and lower ranking officials wore blue clothing in Baekje.

- 41 - Baekje history and culture museum 13. Construction in Baekje

This is a model of a typical construction site of the Baekje Kingdom, and it depicts craftsmen busy building a palace. Take a look at the model. Can you see the people grinding stones and handling roof tiles and timber in preparation for construction? Let's take a look at how buildings were constructed during the Baekje period. In order to build strong palaces, large stones were set as foundations and pillars were set on top of them. Earlier, they used to dig holes in the ground for the pillars, but the practice was abandoned because the pillars were susceptible to rot due to the moisture content of the soil. To solve this problem, they set large stones as foundations on the ground before placing the pillars on top. In addition, the stones were better able to support the weight of the roof. The roof structure was set directly on top of the pillars, which was a characteristic unique to Baekje construction. If you look at the top of the construction you can see the timber that shows underneath the roof. Eaves formed by the protruding timber protected the building from rain, rendering the structure more sustainable. This unique construction method of Baekje was later conveyed to ancient Japan, and was used to build a variety of structures in Japan. The distinguishing characteristics of Baekje construction that no longer exist elsewhere can be observed in the Baekje Cultural Land.

- 42 - 14. Royal Coffin Hall of King Baekje history and culture museum Muryeong and his Queen

Here we have a model of a ritual site found at the top of Jeongji Mountain, from which you can see the whole of downtown Gongju, facing the mountains of Baekje to the east. According to the inscription on the tomb steles found in the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong, King Muryeong and his Queen were each enshrined 27 months after their deaths. However, until recently, nobody knew where the King and Queen had been enshrined before they were transferred to their final resting place. In 1996, during the construction of a road, a roof tile engraved with the same lotus pattern that was found at the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong was found on a nearby mountain. Additional artifacts that were unique to Baekje royal sites were subsequently unearthed in the area. Eventually, a freezer that was used to store ice was found and it confirmed the suspicions of historians. It had been a long tradition, even since ancient times, for ice to be used to lessen the odor of decaying corpses. The artifacts discovered at the site were like the pieces of the puzzle that eventually led to historians confirming that Jeongji Mountain was indeed the place where the bodies of King Muryeong and his Queen had each been preserved for 27 months.

- 43 - Baekje history and culture museum 15. Development of Baekje Tombs

This model shows the evolution of tomb structure during the Baekje Period. The bodies of the deceased were normally buried directly in the ground, or a simple tomb was constructed with bark and stones, so there aren't many traces of the tombs remaining today. However, the tombs of kings and other members of the royal family were different and as such, many remains have been uncovered. This has made it possible for us to understand the development of tombs in the Baekje Period. The first pyramid-shaped tomb that you see on your right is a stone mound tomb. This style of tomb was used during the early years of Baekje for kings, royals, and members of the nobility. The tombs were constructed by placing the body of the deceased in the center and then arranging stones around and over it in a step-like manner. At a similar time in rural areas, an earthenware vessel was used as a coffin, as displayed second from the left. Either the corpse or just the bones of the deceased were placed in both large and small vessels, and then the vessel was buried. This is similar to a practice common in ancient Egypt, where the internal organs of the king were placed within a vessel for burial. The next type of tomb was a stone chamber tomb, which is exhibited on the furthest to your left. This type of tomb shares similarities with the coffins we use today, in that a rectangular hole was dug in the ground, the corpse interred, and the hole was covered with a slab of stone. The last tomb is the second one from the right, and it is a stone chamber tomb with a tunnel entrance. If you look at the model you will see that there is a square chamber made of stone where the corpse was placed, and to one side of the tomb, a door leading to an entrance passageway. The entrance passageway leading to the chamber was built due to the belief that the occupants continued to reside in the chamber after they had been buried. Baekje tombs differed according to region and they also evolved over time. You can take a look at the reproductions of the different types of tombs in the Baekje Cultural Land.

- 44 - Baekje history and culture museum 16. Royal Tomb of King Muryeong

This is the replica of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong in Gongju. The floor of the tomb was simply constructed, and the artifacts were placed on the floor. The northern and eastern walls were more detailed, with niches for lamps set into them. The passageway on the left leads into the tomb. Follow the passage and take a look at the artifacts on the floor. As you can see, the stone tomb stele, coins, and stone animal figurines were found in the passage. The coffins of the King and Queen were placed in the chamber of the tomb. Can you see the raised part of the floor? This was the holy place where the corpses were placed, distinctly separate from the other areas. If you look at the walls, they are patterned with lotuses and there is a flame-shaped niche for an oil lamp. It is believed that the oil lamp was part of the last ritual performed after enshrining the coffin. When the door of the tomb was finally closed, the light remained until the oil ran out and the tomb was plunged into total eternal darkness. The soot from the lamp withstood the ravages of time for 1,500 years and is still visible. The Royal Tomb of King Muryeong is located in the Tomb Complex in Gongju. In 1996, it was realized that humidity was beginning to affect the tomb and the bricks were becoming damaged, so to preserve the tomb, it was closed to the public.

- 45 - 17. Introducing Baekje Buddhism Baekje history and culture museum to Japan

This is an expression of Baekje’s Buddhist culture that was introduced to Japan. Baekje was early to adopt Buddhism from China as its national religion and its culture developed and flourished based on Buddhism. The kingdom first introduced Buddhism to Japan in around the 6th century. At that time, the Korean peninsula was wracked with war, and the future of the kingdom was uncertain. Baekje wanted to cement an alliance with Japan, in order to protect itself against the neighboring kingdoms of Goguryeo and Silla, and so the kingdom propagated its Buddhist culture in Japan. Baekje dispatched many monks to Japan, in addition to sending Buddhist scriptures and statues of Buddhist saints. The monks taught the principles of Buddhism and introduced the Buddhist way of life and culture, and in addition imparted a variety of technical and artistic skills. It was through these efforts that Buddhism became a part of Japanese culture. Baekje also dispatched masters of construction, sculpture, and the arts to Japan to share their skills for the purposes of building pagodas and temples and crafting statues of Buddha. It was through these efforts that Japan went on to establish an independent Buddhist culture known as the Asuka Culture.

- 46 - 18. Seosan Rock-carved Buddha Baekje history and culture museum Triad

The Buddhist figure displayed here is a replica of a carving discovered on the rock cliff of a mountain near Buyeo. It is believed to have been carved in the 7th century. Buddha statues were commonly made in Asian regions, including India, the birthplace of Buddhism, Thailand and China. Buddhist figures made in India resembled Indian people and those from Thailand resembled Thai people. It was natural that people made Buddha statues in their own likenesses. Look at the middle Sakyamuni Buddha and you will notice it has a round face and a bright smile. The saint to the right has a child-like, innocent smile, whilst the saint to the left has a thin smile. In the actual rock cliff, the expression of the Buddhas appears to change according to the light. The bright morning sun reveals a bright smile and in the evening when the light is low, the expression appears more delicate and merciful. This mysterious smile in harmony with the natural environment best represents the beauty of the Buddhist art of Baekje, and Korean people call the expressions of these Buddha statues the “smile of Baekje.”

- 47 - 19. Foundation Myth of Baekje history and culture museum Mireuksa Temple

What you see here in front of you is a reproduction of the ancient Mireuksa Temple. Have you ever seen the Vatican cathedrals of San Pietro? There are a collection of splendid buildings that cover 2.3 hectares of ground. Would you believe it if I told you that Mireuksa Temple was actually larger than the San Pietro complex? Mireuksa Temple was built by Baekje's King during the 7th century and was the largest Buddhist temple in East Asia at the time. There is an ancient myth regarding the foundation of Mireuksa Temple. One day the King and Queen were on their way to a temple to pray when they came upon a large pond at the base of Yonghwa Mountain. The Mireuksa, or a Buddhist saint suddenly appeared, rising from the middle of the pond. Because of this divine vision, the King decided that he would build a temple larger than any other in Baekje on this sacred site. In order to build the temple, he searched for a way to fill in the pond and requested help from Buddhist monks. It is said that it took the monks just one day to move the mountain to fill in the pond. People travelled from as far away as neighboring kingdoms to help with the construction of the temple. The King named the completed temple after Mireuksa, the Buddhist saint who had appeared to him, in the hope that the Buddhist saint would bring peace to the people of Baekje.

- 48 - 20. Gilt-bronze Pensive Buddhist Baekje history and culture museum Saint

[Narration] The sculpture on the left is a reproduction of the Gilt-bronze Pensive Buddhist Saint and the sculpture on the right is a reproduction of the Wooden Pensive Buddhist Saint, which is a highly acclaimed national treasure of Japan. These statues express Buddha lost in thought about human pains and sufferings in a contemplative way. And they are considered the best Buddha statues in the world. Do they remind you of Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker? Also, the statue on the left which was made during the Three Kingdoms Period in Korea has been requested for overseas exhibitions so many times, and even have rare chance to see it in person. What do you think when you see them side by side? [Male student] They almost look the same. Neither of the two looks particularly splendid, but they both seemed to be very detailed. Their serene smiles make me feel happy and peaceful. [Narration] Yes, the statues do look very similar, don't they? It is believed that the Japanese wooden statue was crafted in Baekje and sent over to Japan. The origin of the wooden statue was confirmed purely by chance – it’s an interesting story. A young Japanese boy fell in love with the Wooden Pensive Buddhist Saint of Japan, and one day, when nobody was looking, he gave it a big hug, only to break off the statue's finger. [Male student] Oh, how unfortunate to break the finger of such an important cultural asset! What happened? [Narration] The boy was so scared that he took the finger and ran away. In the meantime, the country was turned upside-down due to the disappearance of the finger. The boy eventually returned with the finger and confessed his accidental crime. Whilst experts were ever-so-carefully reattaching the finger to the statue, they noticed something strange. They realized that the timber the saint was carved from came from a rare species of pine, unique to the Bonghwa region of Gyeongbuk Province, Korea. Before this discovery, it had been a well-known fact that Buddhism was introduced to Japan from Baekje,

- 49 - but it was only by chance that this particular statue was confirmed to have originated in Baekje. [Male student] That really was a chance discovery! [Narration] Yes. The accident confirmed that Baekje played an important role in the development of Buddhist culture in Japan

- 50 - 21. Nine-story Wooden Pagoda Baekje history and culture museum of Mireuksa Temple Site

The artifact displayed here is a miniature of the Nine-story Wooden Pagoda that was originally located in the middle of Mireuksa Temple. This pagoda disappeared after the collapse of Baekje, but it was able to be recreated by examining historical records and the site. Do you know how the artisans of Baekje constructed wooden pagodas? The pagodas were constructed only out of wood and nails were not used. The timber was hewn and trimmed to the exact requirements of the design so that the pieces would fit precisely together, but the techniques used were so refined that even today it is difficult to replicate them. Even more surprisingly, the Nine-story Wooden Pagoda of Mireuksa Temple Site was discovered to have been taller than a 20-story apartment building. So why do you think the people of Baekje people built such a large temple and pagoda? Belief in the Buddhist saint began in Baekje in around the 6th century. The people believed that one day the Buddhist saint would come to save them from the devastating wars of the time. The king attempted to unify and comfort the people by building a monument honoring the Buddhist saint, in the hope that the saint would protect the kingdom and allows it to prosper.

- 51 - 22. The Chimi of the Three Baekje history and culture museum Kingdoms

What do you think this is that you are looking at? It is called a chimi and it resembles the beak of a bird. These are models of the chimi that came from the Kingdoms of Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla. A chimi is a roof-tile designed to decorate the corners of a roof. With the decoration of chimi, which also resembles the tail and feather of a bird, a building looks more powerful and dignified just as a bird flying in full wings. Also, a chimi is generally made in proportion to the size of the building, so the chimi can be a significant clue to identify the scale of the whole building or its roof in case the building has disappeared. Now, let's examine the differences between the chimi from each of the three different kingdoms of the Korean Peninsula. Please take a look at the chimi on the left first. Goguryeo, which was located in the north of the peninsula, was more masculine in character than its counterparts and the chimi give a much sharper, powerful impression. The decorations appear sturdy. Baekje, located in the west, was influenced by Goguryeo and had some of their manly qualities. However, the chimi of Baekje were tempered with softer, more delicate lines. The chimi originating from Silla, which was situated to the east, were adorned with patterns that emphasized their splendor. Designed to fend off evil spirits and bad energy and to assert the power of the home-owner, the fierce-looking chimi differ slightly according to their origin.

- 52 - Baekje history and culture museum 23.Gilt-Bronze Incense Burner

The Gilt-Bronze Incense Burner epitomizes the essence of Baekje art and embodies the spirit and culture of the Baekje people. Surprisingly, this beautiful incense burner was uncovered during the construction of a parking lot for tourists in 1993. A jewel was recovered from the mud! This was the greatest example of Baekje art and the greatest archaeological find discovered since the excavation of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong. The incense burner, uncovered after 1,400 years, was undamaged and still retained its original shape. The soil it was buried in had protected and preserved the artifact. Further excavations were conducted in the area after the incense burner was found and it was determined that the area was the former site of a temple of the Baekje Kingdom. This indicated that the incense burner was not only a decorative item, but also a ceremonial accessory used during important rituals. Records from ancient Egypt and the West indicated incense was burned during ceremonial rituals. Both the scent and the smoke of the burning incense were considered sacred. Let's take a look at the incense burner. The artifact is comprised of four parts. There is a lid with a bird-shaped knob where the smoke is released through holes. The body is covered with splendid designs and the base is shaped like a dragon. First, the splendid, dignified bird on top of the lid is a phoenix, the sacred, imaginary animal of the ancient East. People believed that and phoenixes possessed sacred powers. The figure of the phoenix on the top of the lid of the incense burner illustrates the sophistication of works of art from Baekje. In particular, the long tail that curves upward is exceptionally delicate. Next, the mountainous habitat of the saints is depicted on the lid. The variety of unique animals and plants, along with heavenly musicians, resembles a divine paradise. Finally, the body of the burner is shaped like a lotus flower in full bloom, the Buddhist

- 53 - symbol of the origin of all life. The incense burner combines nature, reality, and Buddhist principles within the realms of imagination and is a perfect expression of the ideal, utopian world dreamed of by the people of Baekje.

- 54 - Baekje history and culture museum 24. Stone Pagoda of Baekje

What you see now are miniatures of the pagodas from the Baekje Kingdom. Pagodas were used to store the sarira of the Sakyamuni Buddha, and they were the emblems of the temples. Let's take a look at the stone pagodas of Baekje one at a time. Wooden pagodas were built during the early period of Baekje. However, they weren't durable and were inevitably destroyed by fire. This explains the transition to stone materials. The first stone pagoda on the right is the Mireuk Temple site stone pagoda, which is believed to have been the first stone pagoda constructed. Although it was made of stone, the form and production is identical to that of a wooden pagoda. The second structure is the Five-story Stone Pagoda of Jeongnim Temple Site, which combines the elegant smoothness of a wooden structure with the strength and durability of stone. The roofs of each story are flat and separated to showcase the delicate, splendid design. The next stone pagoda follows and improves upon the forms of the two pagodas previously introduced. These types of stone pagodas from Baekje continued throughout the southern region even after the collapse of the Kingdom.

- 55 -