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TEATRO LA FENICE DISCOVER THE UPCOMING EVENTS

GIFT IDEAS OUT OF TOWN NATURE, HISTORY AND SPAS

VENICE’S LIFESTYLE DEPARTMENT STORE

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Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi, 30124 Venice, Italy +39 041 3142 000 | October–March : 9:30am–7:30pm | April–September : 9:30am–9:30pm TFONDACO.COM Museo Di Torcello

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TREPORTI 18 GIFT GUIDE 52 ENTERTAINMENT SALE Experience an evening FROM 5 JANUARY of magic in Venice JANUARY 2017 ALL YOU THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO CAN DO with a unique mixture IN THE CITY Venice ® ISOLA CAMPALTO

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whereMAGAZINE Venice www.where-venice.com Happy New Year! Venice welcomes in 2017 with great enthusiasm. This WHERE ITALIA SRL Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. year will once again be marked by a huge influx of tourists, important T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 [email protected] events and the opening of new shopping destinations, and that’s not www.where-venice.com all! Venice is uniquely famous for local crafts that have been produced PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrea Jarach here for centuries, and are difficult to come by elsewhere, including ([email protected]) glassware, delicate lace, perfumes and fabrics, which can all be found at EDITORIAL the numerous artisanal ‘botteghe’ scattered throughout the city. (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL)

Big-name brands continue to arrive in the city, heightening the level MANAGING DIRECTOR of experiences linked to fashion and luxury (for example, T-Fondaco Daniele Misrachi EDITORIAL COORDINATION dei Tedeschi, the brand new luxury department store on the Grand Alessandra Finzi Canal, which is celebrating its first New Year in the city). 2017 will also ([email protected]) mark the opening of the 57th Biennale of Art, curated this year by MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Elena Peverata, Christine Macel, curator of Centre Pompidou in Paris. Out of season, Stefania Vida

Venice continues to dazzle the senses with its awe-inspiring masterpieces MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, located in every corner and alley of the city, above every bridge and in Joy Lacanlale each area of the canals. WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) January is an unusual month in Venice, since it comes between the [email protected] Christmas holidays and the annual masked and costumed Carnevale ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock extravaganza, one of the city’s most eagerly-awaited events. Several parts CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2016 - Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org of the city are bound to be far less packed, and some of your favourite Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub restaurants might even be closed as the city recharges its batteries to MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola explode in February with parades, floats and masked balls. But don’t think Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") that this means that January is insignificant: ‘La città in festa’ event, with PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT its Christmas markets, skating rinks (the most central is in Campo San COORDINATOR Paola Grilli Polo) and ad hoc performances lasts until mid-January. ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto

And then there’s the season at VENICE ADVISOR Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) the great La Fenice Opera HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata house, to which this month’s ([email protected]) focus is dedicated: the new CUSTOMER SERVICES Moreno Gallo, Cristina Garbini, Maria Grazia Rubino year year kicks off with the REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 famous New Year’s Concert WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH and continues with a series PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) of prestigious performances Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to dedicated to opera and apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. dance. And the happenings at ‘palazzi’ and museums are IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl not the only things that will and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl leave you starry-eyed! The EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI truth is that Venice in winter VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE can be exquisitely beautiful, HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. a marvelously eerie place MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS of footsteps echoing along MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III misty alleyways. Another pleasure when visiting Venice in the winter is PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV the thick mist that often settles on the canals. This makes for surprisingly MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning lovely, atmospheric pictures, allowing photographers to capture Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any dream-like views of gondolas and capitals. Let yourself be seduced! consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

Published in association with Where® magazine Elena Binda, Editor and the where® logo are registered MVP trademarks of Morris Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications.

4 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 [ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town MORE AT PAGE 45 called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures. 

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto.  Canal Grande

Palazzo Ducale Ponte dei Sospiri

DANIMISRA EDITOR'S TIPS

Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower PHOTO ©

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO CANAL GRANDE be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well This is the most important Catholic church Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful worth a visit.  in the city, and one of the most important street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the monuments in Italy. The original church main waterway of Venice. Lined on both TEATRO LA FENICE dates back to before the year 1000; inside, sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored a triumphant array of domes and transepts, churches, hotels and other public buildings, to its former splendour (the last time was mosaics and gold, marble and numerous it offers a journey back into history, evoking between 1996 and 2003), for centuries other treasures.  the pomp and splendor of the ancient La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal THE GHETTO PONTE DI RIALTO THE ISLANDS Serenissima.  stage for world-class opera, music, theater, The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was This is the oldest and most beautiful of Although the whole of Venice lies on an PONTE DEI SOSPIRI and ballet.  established in 1516. It is located in a secluded the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ A Baroque bridge that once connected SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO sestiere of Cannaregio and is celebrating Originally built during medieval times as generally means a half-day cruise on a Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE its 500th anniversary. A walk through ‘calli’, a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic DI SAN ROCCO ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to point to facilitate access to the popular and Burano, three charming, small islands, romantic sights. It can be accessed building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated A Renaissance complex consisting of a soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere Rialto market, it is still a hub of commerce rich in history and tradition. Visitors love when visiting Palazzo Ducale.  like lace. The architectural beauty of the church and adjoining palace, it was built as that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the and is lined on both sides by shops. It these islands, and there may be a risk of not stairwell, combined with the view that can a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was ‘Merchant of Venice’.  includes as many as 120 steps.  finding a seat on the boat.

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SUNDAY

BRINGING THE PAST INTO THE FUTURE

Are you looking for a unique and enjoyable experience to make your stay in Venice even more special? Something 29 combining tradition, art and music? If this is the case, look no further, I Musici Veneziani is just the ticket! Formed in 1996, this well- known orchestra comprises a number of carefully selected virtuoso musicians. Dressed in exquisite typical 18th-century Venetian costumes and jewelry, the orchestra and singers perform concerts in the exclusive setting of the Salone Capitolare of the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro in the Rialto district. This evening the orchestra will treat the audience to a touching rendition of Antonio Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, four concerti for violin and strings, each of which gives a musical expression to a season of the year. The program is also enhanced by three other major concerti for strings.

“The Four Seasons” by Antonio Vivaldi Other dates in January: 6, 22, 25 I Musici Veneziani at the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro Campo San Salvador T: 041 5210294 - www.imusiciveneziani.com

JANUARY HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating art, history and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. © RENÉ BURRI, LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA, USA, 1984 BURRI / MAGNUM PHOTOS

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WEDNESDAY

PEGGY GUGGENHEIM CELEBRATES ITALIAN ART ► Featuring over ninety works, 18 this much-awaited retrospective marks the return to Venice of Tancredi Parmeggiani (1926–1964), among the most original and prolific Italian painters of the second half of the twentieth century. Tancredi was the only artist, after Jackson Pollock, whom Peggy Guggenheim placed under contract, promoting his work and organizing shows, including one in her own home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, in 1954. More than sixty years on, Tancredi returns to Palazzo Venier dei Leoni with this retrospective exhibition which, through a selection of exceptional paintings, reconstructs the brief and convulsive career of this great postwar artist. Until 13 March.

My Weapon Against the Atom Bomb is a Blade of Grass. WEDNESDAY Tancredi. A Retrospective Collezione Peggy Guggenheim. WHERE GLASS TAKES SHAPE Dorsoduro, 701 (Palazzo Venier dei Leoni). ▲ When visiting Venice, a trip to the famous Island of Murano is an absolute must! www.guggenheim-venice.it While on the island you can watch free shows of mouth-blown glassmaking and visit the Glass Museum. The museum is currently hosting an exhibition dedicated to the best glass works produced by Murano- 25 based artists and glassmakers, where technique meets artistic mastery and design in 260 works created by ninety artists and fifty companies. In addition to large outdoor installations, the exhibition takes visitors on a tour of two rooms. One is dedicated to ancient techniques applied to new creations, while the other explores research combined with design. From glass pearls to goblets, bowls, sculptures, bead making, incalmo, Murrine techniques, mirrored glass and glass that is blown, beaten and engraved in furnaces, to produce what has been described as “a universe of ideas”. Until 25 April.

Murano Oggi. Emozioni di vetro. Museo del Vetro di Murano. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Isola di Murano. T: 041 5274718. MONDAY museovetro.visitmuve.it DISCOVERING CA’ FOSCARI ▲ The tour through the most symbolic spaces of Ca’ Foscari, the historic headquarters of UNTIL SUNDAY the University of Venice, starts at 2.30pm.The 23 itineraries of the guided tours of the University, held year-round, allow visitors to admire and learn more about THE FASCINATION OF Ca’ Foscari and Ca’ Dolfin, the historical premises of the WATER University, amidst frescoes, gardens and sweeping views of ► Last day to visit ‘Under Water’, the the Grand Canal. The tour starts from the palazzo’s picturesque evocative installation by Fabrizio courtyards and continues with the Historical Library exhibition 15 Plessi at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. where unpublished archival documents allow visitors to gain This site specific project created by the internationally insight into the history of the two buildings. The main part of renowned artist is a tribute that blends art with the tour includes the beautiful Aula Baratto designed by Venetian technology and history. Resembling a giant Byzantine architect Carlo Scarpa in the 1930s and 1950s, an interesting mosaic, just like art, which according to Plessi is fluid, example of modern architecture, boasting a unique view ever-changing and dream-like, it undulates softly over the Grand Canal. The tour ends on the ground floor of thanks to the gentle, almost elastic motion of the water. Ca’ Foscari through the palace’s evocative water door exit on the Grand Canal. Event Pavilion T Fondaco dei Tedeschi top floor Ca’ Foscari Tour Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi Other dates in January: 24 and 30 (9.30pm), 25 and 31 (2.30pm) Ponte di Rialto www.unive.it

10 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES Hot Venues FRIDAY ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE CA’ PESARO-INTERNATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART JANUARY Santa Croce, 2076. Map E3 New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic selections www.capesaro.visitmuve.it at La Fenice Opera House. › 17 September 2016 – 8 January 2017 CULTURE CHANEL. La donna che legge FEBRUARY 6 culture-chanel.com Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. FONDAZIONE CINI.SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE APRIL Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. Map G6 Festa di San Marco / Feast of St. Mark > (25 April) www.cini.it › In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April 17 September 2016 – 8 January 2017 MINDFUL HANDS. I capolavori miniati della Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Fondazione Giorgio Cini MAY COSTUMED REGATTA MUSEO CORRER Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity) > A masked San Marco, 52 (Piazza San Marco). Map F4 ▲ Venice celebrates Epiphany – one of Italy’s best-loved holidays – with the playful parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and www.correr.visitmuve.it Regata delle Befane, a costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony › 28 May 2016 – 8 January 2017 Vogalonga > A 30 km rowing marathon through S. Erasmo, oldest rowing company in Venice. Fifty men dressed up as ‘befane’ (old crones) IPPOLITO CAFFI 1809-1866. S. Francesco del deserto, Burano, Mazzorbo, Murano and the battle it out for a win on the Grand Canal. The race, lasting for 15 minutes, starts Tra Venezia e l’Oriente DOUGLAS KIRKLAND, GABRIELLE CHANEL PORTRAIT (1962), DOUGLAS KIRKLAND COLLECTION, LOS ANGELES, © DOUGLAS KIRKLAND Grand Canal. The competition is open to the public. from San Tomà and ends at the famous Rialto Bridge where, to mark the occasion, a huge stocking is hung. Hot chocolate, vin brulé and other local sweet treats are MUSEO DEL VETRO (GLASS MUSEUM) JUNE/JULY distributed on the Rialto Bridge to celebrate this delightful holiday. San Marco, 52 (Piazza San Marco). Off Map Biennale of Art > An international exhibition of www.museovetro.visitmuve.it OUT OF TOWN BASSANO DEL GRAPPA. MUSEO CIVICO Regata delle Befane › 7 October 2016 – 25 April 2017 Contemporary Art (next edition: 2017) MESTRE. CENTRO CULTURALE CANDIANI Piazza Garibaldi, 34. Bassano del Grappa Canal Grande, from San Tomà to Ponte di Rialto. Starting from 11am at Palazzo Balbi MURANO OGGI. Emozioni di vetro Biennale of Dance > (17-27 June 2016) Piazzale Candiani, 7. Venezia Mestre. www.museibassano.it bucintoro.org › An international dance festival www.visitmuve.it 30 October 2016 – 19 January 2017 MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA › 14 December 2016 – 5 March 2017 FRAMMENTI. Bassano e la memoria 1914, 1918, Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity SATURDAY Cannaregio, 2902/b. Map D2 ATTORNO A KLIMT. Giuditta, eroismo e 2016 to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event www.museoebraico.it seduzione is the Island of San Pietro di Castello. › 18 September 2016 – 8 January 2017 PADOVA. PALAZZO ZABARELLA PASSATO PROSSIMO. TREVISO. MUSEO DI SANTA CATERINA Via degli Zabarella, 14. Padova JULY/AUGUST Il Ghetto di Venezia 1986-2016 Piazzetta Mario Botter, 1. Treviso. www.zabarella.it Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > › 15 January – 5 March 2017 www.lineadombra.it › 1 October 2016 – 29 January 2017 (third Sunday of the month) One of Venice’s best loved SI NARRA UNA STORIA… › 29 October 2016 – 17 April 2017 L’IMPRESSIONISMO DI ZANDOMENEGHI festivals, the event features a parade of boats 21 STORIE DELL’IMPRESSIONISMO. I grandi in the Giudecca and fireworks. PALAZZO FORTUNY protagonisti da Monet a Renoir, da Van Gogh VERONA. PALAZZO Biennale of Theatre 2016 (26 July-28 August 2016) San Marco, 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). Map E4 a Gauguin DELLA GRAN GUARDIA www.fortuny.visitmuve.it Piazza Bra, 1. Verona › 26 November 2016 – 27 March 2017 www.mayaverona.it AUGUST/SEPTEMBER VICENZA. PALAZZO LEONI MONTANARI LA BOTTEGA CANDORIN. › 8 October 2016 – International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > GALLERIE D’ITALIA Una dinastia di artisti veneziani 5 March 2017 (31 August-10 September 2016) Now in its 73rd Contra’ Santa Corona, 25. Vicenza. MAYA. Il linguaggio consecutive year, the exhibition is organized www.gallerieditalia.com della bellezza by the Biennale of Venice. › 7 October 2016 – 8 January 2017 in Gran Guardia Biennale of Architecture (28 May-27 November 2016) NOT JUST FOR SKIERS GIOVANNI BELLINI A VICENZA. Un itinerario An International exhibition of Architecture, held at the Giardini nel paesaggio ▲ Don’t miss the opportunity of a weekend getaway at one of Italy’s most della Biennale and Arsenale venues. exclusive resorts, Cortina d’Ampezzo, a charming town exclusively positioned Mayapán censer, Yucatán (1250- in the heart of the breathtaking Dolomites, listed as a World Heritage site by 1527 d.C.). INAH ceramic. SEPTEMBER UNESCO in 2009 on account of their extraordinary beauty. A symbol of style, Museo Regional de Antropología, Palacio Cantón. Regata Storica / Historic Regatta > fashion and the Italian way of life, Cortina is the perfect destination for those who Mérida, Yucatán first Sunday in September seek a truly special holiday experience. The spectacular scenery and full range One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by of alpine sports and outdoor activities offered by this bustling mountain town, a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. attract nature lovers and sports enthusiasts during all seasons. First rate skiing, a lively après-ski scene, exclusive shopping and a great choice of events and NOVEMBER entertainment, confirms Cortina’s position as a world-class winter destination. Festa della Salute > 21 November Winter offers an array of outdoor activities including excursions on snowcats and A popular religious feast day. sleighs, nighttime descents from mountain refuges, snowshoeing (even at night), glacier hikes, romantic helitours, ice driving, snowkiting and horse-drawn sleigh DECEMBER rides…to enjoy the magic of the Dolomites from dawn to dusk. Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica For information visit: cortina.dolomiti.org - www.dolomitiskirock.com Museo Correr 12 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | FOCUS La Fenice, the stage of Venice

Venice’s famous opera house is renowned for having hosted some of the world’s most notable musicians, from Verdi to Maria Callas. In 2017, La Fenice will once again offer an impressive program. If you’re visiting Venice, this magnificent opera house is a must! Located in the heart of one of the Lagoon’s most vibrant districts, this theatre rose from the ashes following a devastating fire.

BY ELENA BINDA

rom Donizetti’s Lucia di Lamermoor to operas by Monteverdi, and with both commemorative and popular performances, La Fenice’s future promises to be as rosy and stimulating as the playbill recently presented by its superintendent Cristiano Chiarot and its artistic director Fortunato Ortombina, in Fcollaboration with Franco Bolletta for dance. Twenty-three works, including opera and ballet, fifteen new productions and eight repeat performances, will be staged over one-hundred-and-thirty-six evenings. But this year’s exciting events calendar is not the only point of interest. Like almost everything in Venice and Italy, Teatro La Fenice has an amazing story.

AN AMAZING STORY The history of La Fenice began with an architectural competition announced on 1 November 1789 for a theatre “that shall be most satisfying to the eye and ear of the audience” and with the highest architectural goal of being deemed “worthy of a capital where Palladio, Sansovino and other artists of the Great Century have left such noble monuments.” In other words, it had to be a building that was both a monumental architectural work and a jewel of acoustics, that could host prestigious performances. The competition was won by the architect Giannantonio Selva whose project, according to a reporter covering the opening, embodied a perfect mixture of “harmony, solidity and lightness” and one that “with its 174

identical boxes, conveyed the ideal of Republican equality.” MICHELE CROSERA As hoped by its supporters, the Theatre became a desirable location for the greatest musicians of that era and, during the most glorious PHOTO © period in the history of opera, it presented several “world premieres”

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A THEATRE AT THE CINEMA La Fenice had a water entrance (on the left), located at the back of its main facade (below). Despite being abandoned for many years as an access to the theatre, it nevertheless earned a place in the history of cinema. In 1978, it was used as a setting for a scene from ‘Moonraker’ starring Roger Moore (other film locations included the Hotel Danieli, St. Mark’s Square and the Grand Canal, where the gondola used by James Bond overturned 5 times). On the next page: details of its sumptuous interior, with the Sala Apollinea decorated for a gala dinner and the monumental clock. MICHELE CROSERA PHOTO ©

restoration work, was not touched until the by prominent conductors from across the to Maria Callas. This exhibition explores the end of the 20th century, with the exception of globe (including frequent collaborations with career of the ‘Divine’ opera star, tracing her CHARMING SHOPS AND EATERIES a symbolic replacement of the imperial loggia Myung-Whun Chung, Riccardo Chailly, Jeffrey seven Venetian seasons with archive materials, after a riot in 1848. However, the most tragic Tate, Vladimir Temirkanov and Dmitrij Kitajenko), manuscripts and unique stage shots, portraying If you happen to be strolling through the neighbourhood episode in the history of La Fenice was in 1996. and a program that includes the full cycles of her as a young artist who, at that time, was around La Fenice, you’ll most definitely be spoilt for choice. Two electricians, commissioned to do some symphonies by Beethoven, Schumann, Brahms unaware that she would one day become Here is my pick of some of the city’s best-kept secrets maintenance work, found themselves facing and Mahler. Faithful to its history, the theatre a legend. with which you’re bound to fall in love. My favourite heavy fines over delays in the repair work safeguards tradition by staging important Italian place to eat is the Osteria Ai Assassini (San Marco, 3695. they were engaged to complete. In order to and international operatic works, including A THEATRE, A LANDMARK osteriaaiassassini.it): its menu changes on a daily basis (it avoid paying the fine, they thought that if they pieces by French, British, Slavic and German Thanks to its strategic position in Campo San offers a good selection of meat dishes, cooked in a number of Romena Brugnerotto caused ‘just a little damage’ they could attribute composers (Venice enjoys deep-rooted ties Fantin, La Fenice is also a point of reference for different ways, a rarity in Venice) and it is mostly patronized Tourist Advisor the delay to forces beyond their control. This with both Britten and Wagner), offering its anyone visiting the city. Bear in mind that the by people working in the district (a guarantee that its food www.rominvenice.com act of arson resulted in a raging fire that quickly audience musical experiences of only the theatre is not the only attraction that should be is good).My favourite dish? ‘Pocker di Bacalà. If, on the spread, becoming unmanageable, and entirely highest standard. The theatre frequently visited while in the neighbourhood. Within the other hand, you’re in search of a quick snack, head to Pizzeria L’Angelo (San Marco, consumed the theatre’s marvelous wooden produces Baroque works, particularly those space of a few kilometers, you’ll come across 3711- Calle della Mandorla) where in addition to top-notch pizza, you’ll also find structure. Although firemen worked tirelessly from the Venetian repertoire. After welcoming a number of other must-visit sites, that ideally a wide selection of vegan sandwiches. If you want to buy something unusual or through the night to put out the fire, La Fenice in the New Year with its impressive New Year’s combine the sacred with the profane. Campo take home a memento of Venice, here are two interesting addresses: Sartoria dei burned to the ground causing the entire world concert, the theatre will continue to delight the San Fantin is also home to the Ateneo Veneto, Dogi (Santa Croce, 1840-1842 - Calle del Tentor. www.sartoriadeidogi.it). Most of of culture to shed tears of shock and grief. The public with a rich and varied program during the university founded by Napoleon, now open the bags, clothes and shawls sold here, including classical Venetian ‘tabarri’ (capes) reaction of the Venetians, supported by the the first few months of 2017, (for more detailed to the public for concerts and events; just 100 are hand-made in-house. However, my favourites continue to remain their Kevlar by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti, Verdi and generosity international philanthropists, was information visit www.teatrolafenice.it) meters further on you’ll find Palazzo Contarini bags. Another must-visit address is Chiosco Malefatte in Campo Santo Stefano - Leoncavallo. It was also here, that for the extraordinary. On 14 December 2003, in the including Wagner’s Tannhäuser, Puccini’s La del Bovolo (see page 49), a late Gothic building Rio Terà dei Pensieri. Here you can find brightly-coloured bags in PVC, made from first time ever, audiences were treated to presence of government authorities, La Fenice Bohème, numerous classical concerts and a whose signature feature is its spiral staircase recycled materials, and original T-shirts silk screened with the recipe for spritz, a operas such as La Traviata and La Bohème, to re-opened its doors with an inaugural concert contemporary ballet by the Parsons Dance (climb to the top and look down, we promise typical Venetian cocktail. If after browsing the Fenice district, you’re in the mood mention only a few. conducted by Riccardo Muti. The gala concert Company. you won’t regret it); lying just beyond it is the for something a little opened with Beethoven's ''Consecration of the church of San Moisè, a Baroque church more cultural, I would A NAME, A DESTINY House'' Overture. La Fenice had once again HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF A CERTAIN housing masterpieces by Tintoretto and other recommend visiting Palazzo However, the theatre’s name carried a risen from the ashes. MARIA CALLAS? famous artists. This area is not only renowned Fortuny (San Marco, 3780 disturbing prophecy. The company responsible As mentioned, even when no performances for its cultural attractions, but also for its high- – fortuny.visitmuve.it). for promoting its construction chose the LA FENICE TODAY are being staged, the theatre is an attraction end shopping. Although Venice’s glitziest Formerly home to the artist mythological reference to the ‘phoenix’, the With a seating capacity of over one thousand in its own right: it can be visited daily from shopping street is located just moments away, Mariano Fortuny, in addition legendary bird capable of rising from the ashes. people, La Fenice boasts excellent acoustics 9.30am to 6pm (however, since variations may Campo San Fantin itself offers several gems to still being infused with Initially, it simply alluded to the fact that the (which were improved when the theatre was occur in the schedule for artistic or technical including the Bugno art gallery, one of the the designer’s creative theatre had been built on the site of another rebuilt after the devastating fire of 1996), a reasons, we suggest that you either check the best-known in Venice, and The Merchant of spirit, it also hosts a number theatre that had been forced to shut down. 98-member orchestra and 66-person www.festfenice.com website prior to planning Venice, an artistic perfume shop that not only of extremely interesting But history held another surprise in store: opera chorus, a dedicated local audience and a visit, or ask your concierge for advice). And, La sells exquisite fragrances but offers a unique exhibitions. Go up to the the building was, in fact, destroyed twice a large international following. The theatre is Fenice holds another surprise in store: over the experience and a trip back in time. Because, last floor and enjoy a 360° by fire. The first fire occurred in 1836, due a leading creative venue, staging more than next few months, the guided tour of the theatre since the dawn of time, the city has traded view of Venice. to a malfunctioning stove. The theatre was one hundred opera performances per will include an exhibition (located near the fabrics and perfumes with the East: long before quickly rebuilt and, apart from conservative year, a major symphonic season conducted third floor boxes of the opera house) dedicated it ever had a theatre…

16 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 17 WHERE NOW | FOCUS

► MONTEGRAPPA The ‘Ducale’ brand was invented in the 1930s to ► EMI ART GLASS ► MICHELE DE FINA mark the high-end pens of The most priceless Michele De Fina's creations are the Elmo line. Its name drew GIFT gift that you can find authentic, handcrafted bags, inspiration from the famous in Venice references designed and produced in the Doge’s Palace, one of the the age-old art of Veneto area. This No4 model, symbols of the city glassmaking. Though in brightly-coloured buckskin of Venice. The brand has GUIDE enjoying deep-rooted leather, with handles passing now added the ‘Ducale Whether you choose an ties with Murano, this through eyelets on the bag’s Murano’ to its collection. contemporary ‘Picasso accessory or a fragrance upper edge, gives a nod to Crafted in steel and resin, Style’ sculpture can for him or for her, a spring. it is delicately pearlised be purchased at the www.micheledefina.it in the shades of the sea. decoration for the home brand’s store located www.montegrappa.com. or some local item, you just steps from St. will certainly be spoilt for Mark’s Square. choice in the magical city www.emiartglass.com HOME of Venice. Take advantage of a stroll through its picturesque ‘calli’ to treat HER yourself to an accessory or some other alluring detail ► DAMIANI Available in pink gold of style. We guarantee embellished with fancy black that you won’t leave ◄RENÉ CAOVILLA diamonds, this timepiece empty-handed! The designer’s gold satin literally oozes personality. sandal with a 10.5cm stiletto A part of the D.Side luxury heel and a glitter-encrusted watch and jewelry collection, sole is the perfect accessory it has a truly unforgettable for a Lagoon party. Featuring style. www.damiani.com signature swirls and crystal BEVILACQUA TESSUTI trim, it frames the instep and ▲ Not just ordinary cushions, but wraps around the ankle thanks cushions covered with artistic fabrics, to a narrow, adjustable strap. recreated on 18th century looms, and www.renecaovilla.com. based on original designs from the Bevilacqua family’s historic archives. HIM Not merely home décor items but authentic pieces of history. www.luigi-bevilacqua.com

► TIFFANY & CO. ► CHANEL ‘Allure Homme Edition Blanche’ Tiffany’s heart beats for Italy ◄ VETRERIA ESTEVAN is an intense and singular with this limited edition heart ROSSETTO 1950 perfume which maison Chanel charm bracelet, engraved with Vetreria Estevan Rossetto has describes as “a unique and the name ‘Venezia’. The heart- been producing priceless explosive alchemy of hot shaped charm belongs to the glassware collections for and cold “.This oriental-fresh historic ‘Please Return to Tiffany’ decades. Guided tours to the fragrance combines the citrus ▲ FANNY GLOVES collection first introduced in family’s furnace in Murano are freshness of Lemon with Brightly-coloured gloves, handmade 1969. Only available at the organized daily and its master an oriental breeze of New according to the best Italian tradition. brand’s Italian boutiques (the glassmakers are always on-hand Caledonian Sandalwood. Classical or eccentric, lined with Venice store is located in calle to explain the secrets of www.chanel.com cashmere, silk or fur, the maison offers Vallaresso). traditional glassmaking. Shown styles to suit all tastes and occasions. www.tiffany.it here is a Rezzonico glass. www.fannygloves.it www.rossettomuranoglass.com

18 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 19 WHERE NOW | ITINERARY

The island is the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands The island of Burano to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful to woman to finish. Groups of women work houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. By Stefano Traine diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. For example, though it can take up to five months to make a rectangular tablecloth for 12 people, the island’s lace makers are now equipped to deliver your item of choice to anywhere in the world. (Please note: since an authentic, handcrafted item takes hours of work, you need to be cautious if the price seems too low. The risk that the lace is not handmade and not even Venetian is now a sad reality). While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Burano, Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 187).

BISCUITS AND OTHER SWEET TREATS Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped), are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish. Here is our pick, among the many, of several historic eateries. Da Romano (famed Zilli for its ‘risotto di Gò’); Da Ruggero al Gatto Nero (all the pastas and desserts are made in-house, and the fish is so fresh and delicious that even Jamie Oliver has recommended Al Gatto Nero on his television show); and finally Ai Pescatori e Dal Vecio Pipa. Bon Apetit! POCKET BURANO A little less famous than its twin, Murano rainbow, are truly spectacular! However, HOW TO REACH BURANO You can also take the - the island of glass, with which it is often the origin of this tradition of painting the One Vaporetto line runs from Venice houses of Burano home as confused, due to the similar names (only the houses in bright colours was not only for to Burano: the number 12. The journey a souvenir. On the island first letter changes), lace, in no way inferior to aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its lasts for approximately one hour after you can find a number of its sibling’s blown glass, has made tiny Burano fishermen, often confused by frequent banks embarking at the Fondamente Nove artisans specializing in the famous. With a population of only three of fog (and, truth be told, by the amount of stop (the Vaporetto runs at 10 minutes reproduction of brightly thousand inhabitants, its colourful houses liqueur consumed to keep them warm…), past and 20 minutes to the hour). If coloured, miniature districts. make it is one of the most picturesque places devised a chromatic code that would help you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians However, the noblest craft of on earth. them identify their own landing piers more recommend another alternative: you can all is the lace-making. The lace easily after a long day’s fishing. Each colour take the 14 line from San Zaccaria (the made here is truly an example THE HOUSES corresponded to a family, to their house and Pietà stop), which stops at the Lido. It’s of an ancient art! Thank heavens for smartphones! The idea to their address. a good opportunity to take a look at the of arriving on Burano and realizing that venue where the Film Festival is held, you’ve forgotten your camera could be a BURANO LACE and admire the works by MOSE, the huge catastrophe. The island’s row of houses, Burano’s brightly-coloured houses are not the hydraulic engineering project completed whose facades boast all the colours of the only thing worth admiring. to protect the Lagoon.

20 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 21 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM ACCESSORIES Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run W The Guidelines this family-owned business, established by his father- M H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of Anatema in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently R . C E T R Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm- handmade ties. Her windows and display cases 7.30pm. www.fannygloves.it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Tomà stop). Map D2 the coordinates on the street maps on pages Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Francis Model 62-63. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has stops are based on departure from the Santa (San Tomà stop). Map D4 Lucia railway station. always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Declare Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from Although the goods sold by this small independent Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still brand are targeted at an international clientele, its with pride and passion. take the traditional lunch break. Most shops owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San are closed on Sundays (except those located in provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after, Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask butter-soft leather bags and accessories handcrafted line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3 by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open your concierge. G. Pagan daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041 generally included in the price of goods. and accessories are made from prized materials: 8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 TAX-FREE SHOPPING about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store (San Samuele stop). Map D3 » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased Fanny Gloves San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. and exported from the EU: before finalizing Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5 Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: [email protected]

UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By June 2016, over 350,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 30,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree Sparkling in Venice shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders.

Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Tiffany & Co.’s first Venetian boutique illuminates DINING Reservations for most restaurants are strongly the lagoon with its new space in Calle Vallaresso. By Stefania Vida advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as ll the sparkle of Tiffany & Co.’s refined Amfitheatrof with all the energy and optimism gold sconces by New York a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include jewelry collections are now on display of New York City, where the company was artist Michele Oka Doner. the word “coperto”, a small surcharge at its new must-visit store. For the founded in 1837. A location that has already corresponding to the cost of the service and Contemporary shopping A bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, new Venice location, Tiffany’s architects and Moreover, for a limited period of time, a become a must-visit stopover semiformal clothing is usually considered de designers created a modern store environment special collection of bejeweled butterfly for visitors to Venice. A place rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars experience embellished with archival motifs. The façade and dragonfly brooches, inspired by designs where women can dream, be are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ Spread over four floors surrounding an inner courtyard, luxury department store is finished with Art Deco-style details and a from the Tiffany Archives, will be available inspired and why not, even feel area is specifically offered. Coin Excelsior in Cannaregio is located just steps from the Rialto Bridge. A trip into Set meals: prices are per person and usually wheat leaf pattern etched in Tiffany Blue glass, for viewing at an exhibition showcasing the like princesses for one day! the universe of fashion dedicated to the worlds of clothing, beauty and accessories. refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). which distinguishes the façade of the Fifth luxury brand’s heritage of craftsmanship and € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / The ground floor hosts some of the world’s most coveted perfume brands including Avenue flagship store in New York. tradition. This exhibition will be hosted in the >> Tiffany & Co. €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. Jo Malone, Bond No. 9, Byredo and Diptyque as well as a sought-after selection of Inside the elegant store, Tiffany’s diamonds foyer of ‘Teatro La Fenice’ until 26 March. www.tiffany.it products dedicated to beauty. The first and second floors are devoted to women’s wear illuminate all the collections, including The interior of the boutique co-exists San Marco, 1336 SIGHTSEEING collections while, on the third floor, the offer of menswear is targeted at a discerning Information about our selection of museums engagement rings, radiant Tiffany yellow in perfect harmony with the elegant, (Calle Vallaresso) and monuments is checked as carefully as clientele in search of a gentlemanly selection of contemporary and classic apparel. diamonds, Elsa Peretti’s jewelry of elegant sophisticated style that has distinguished possible. However, telephone numbers, Finally, the top floor is the go-to space for Coincasa’s must have home decorations. simplicity and Paloma Picasso’s colorful the brand since its inception. The jewelry and opening hours, works displayed and site The store’s inner courtyard hosts ‘Be Happy’, the site-specific lighting installation created creations. private sales salons are seamlessly designed accessibility are subject to change depending by well-known storyteller and multidisciplinary artist Felice Limosani. on the time of the year, restorations, loans or Customers will also discover the bold and with walls of cream velvet surrounding Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. changes in management. Ask your concierge. graphic Atlas® collection, along with Tiffany T, stainless steel display cases, panels of wisteria Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3 created by design director Francesca in white gold, and magnolias blossoming in Tiffany Keys pendant, with Tiffany VictoriaTM key.

22 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 23 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Luxury Top Brands

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). MICHAEL KORS NEW OPENING A new addition every day! Open daily 10am-7pm. Calle Vallaresso, 1310. Map F4 www.michaelkors.com. San Marco, 1461

The world of designer T: 041 5230806. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Vaporetto Whimsical patent PRADA Resort 17 lpump, with boutiques in Venice is Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti.com line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map lip-shaped leather applications, a metal logo on the sole and a flower-shaped under-heel. Open daily 10am-7pm. Campo S. Salvador, F5 making waves, and the majority of big-name brands BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open Mon- 4800. T: 041 5230571. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. stop). Map F4 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am- are located around San Marco, 4822. T: 041 2411945. Vaporetto Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). 7.30pm. San Marco, 1312 (Calle Vallaresso). T: St. Mark’s Square, the great line 2 (Rialto-Riva del Carbon stop). T: 041 5220819. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 041 5205733. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco- 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F4 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia stop). Map F5 • Marco Polo Airport. BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com GIORGIO ARMANI NEW OPENING MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open daily 10am- T: 041 2611556 (open 6.30am-9pm). from St. Mark’s Square, you Sizing will find yourself in Calle Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1473 www.armani.com Open Mon- Sat 10am- 7.30pm. San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5205197. Vaporetto 7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 4412 (Calle T: 041 8106066.Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Women clothes

Larga XXII Marzo, the widest line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop or Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Vaporetto Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 IT EUR US UK

street in the city, lined with S. Maria del Giglio stop). Map F5 line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4 36 32 1 4

• Armani Jeans at Marco Polo Airport. PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am- 38 34 2 6 the window displays of the most coveted international CALVIN KLEIN —it.calvinklein.com. Open Mon- 7.30pm. San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 brands. A system of ‘calli’ Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco, 4559 (Calle del GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open daily 10am- Moise). T: 041 5283966. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Teatro). T: 041 5202164. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto 7.30pm. San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 44 40 8 12

(the word for street in stop). MAP E4 Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Venetian dialect) known as (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4• Open RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com. the ‘Mercerie’ leads from CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sun daily 10am-7.30pm Piazza San Marco, 258 Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 Women shoes the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s 10am-7pm. San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII T: 041 5229119. Vaporetto line 1 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco- Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map E5 Vallaresso stop). Map F4 IT EUR US UK Square to the Rialto, where (San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map E5 36 36 6 3 Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com. Open daily ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 (workshops) have now CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1292. T: 041 2410715. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1314. been replaced by luxury 39 39 8.5 6 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso T: 041 5299020. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 40 40 9 7 San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). stop). Map F5 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 boutiques. 41 41 9.5 8 T: 041 2410147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open daily SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open Mon-Sat » Since October, the world’s most Men clothes 10am-7pm. San Marco Ascensione, 1301. 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco, 1302. IT EUR US UK coveted brands have a new home DIOR— www.dior.com Open daily 10am-7pm. T: 041 2770695. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 T: 041 5202211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 50 46 36 36 that gathers them all under one Piazza San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 • Marco (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 52 48 38 38 roof: T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the I’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Vaporetto line 1 Polo Airport, Viale Luigi Broglio, 8 (open 54 50 40 40 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 6.30am-9pm). T: 041 5415072. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— first luxury Venetian department 56 52 42 42 store, located just steps from the www.ferragamo.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- 58 54 44 44 Rialto Bridge. DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it LOUIS VUITTON— www.louisvuitton.com 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. 60 56 46 46 Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 233/266 Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-8pm. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). (corner of Mercerie dell'Orologio). San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Vaporetto T: 041 2778509. Vaporetto line Men shoes T: 041 5209991. Vaporetto line 1 line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 IT EUR US UK (San Marco-Giardinetti). Map F4 F5 • Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 268357 40 40 7.5 6 (open 6.30am-9pm). 41 41 8 7 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com 42 42 8.5 8 Open daily 10am-7pm. Bocca di Piazza San TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; 43 43 9 9 Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Vaporetto line 1 Sun 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm. 44 44 10.5 10 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). 45 45 11.5 11 T: 041 5206603. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 46 46 12 12 ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am- (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

7.30pm. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com

CALVIN KLEIN CONTROL men’s (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Open 6.30am-9pm. Marco Polo Airport. A modern princess, for the 2016 Fall/Winter season chronograph watch, featuring a soft leather T: 041 2698001. (open 6.30am-9pm). strap and a round 44mm stainless steel case. Irresistible medium-size, black calf leather, chain handle DOLCE & GABBANA dress their muse in a red wool stretch dress FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- It is water resistant to 100 meters and has a clutch bag with macro and micro Lion Head studs from featuring large buttons and a jeweled buckle belt, paired with laminated 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1582 VERSACE—www.versace.com Swiss quartz movement. the VERSUS VERSACE FW 2016 collection. leather pumps embellished with a sculpted ‘Chandelier’ heel. (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Vaporetto line Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco,

24 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 25 Museo Di Torcello

TORCELLO Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta

Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m SINA O R

ELLA A D RAD T S

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FO N DA RINA ME ISOLA ATE N T C A A D T I N S A SA N T DI A C TA A EN TE M R DA IN N A MAZZORBETTO FO

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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO

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V I A L E D E L L A L I B E R TA’ Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

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ASE N CAS SANT'ALVISE

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O L FOND R F O N D A M E F O NER FONDAMEN N D A M E E AME N N TA TA D E F O S A N G I R O L A M O N NT L E D A M E N T FONDAMENTA MAD A C A P CANNAREGIO CALLE DE Madonna dell'Orto U Z Z I N A S E E LARG PIAV N S . A ON C NA F O N D A M E N TA D ELL'ORT San Girolamo O B AT T E L L O SAN MICHELE Rio della Madonna dell'Orto FO CAMPIELLO NDAMENTA CONTARINI E BECCARIEDEL SCARLATTO FONPonte dei Tre Archi DA DE L F O N D A M MENTA SA CANNAREGIOCAMPO FONDAME LLE CAMPO E N TA M DEI MORI FONDAMENTA CANNAREGIO CA DI GHETTO NUOVO I S E NTA N R I C O R D DEI GI TE TTO M OB I A ORI BE Canale di Cannaregio HE VERTI CAMPIELLO Rio della Misericordia DE LA LAVANDER CON Museo Ebraico ALLEVECCHIO G C VECCHIA , LA CERERIA I FONDA A

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DE OVE CALLE PERLERI LL TERÀ N E F O A E MA Palazzo Nani ALL N FONDAMENTA SAVORG N D A M E N C RIO MI O TERÀ FARS IA SENA I A CA R TA N CALLE TREVIS M I S E ’ABAZ O Rio de ServiFON.DA L CALL DEL E DEL DE CATERI CA PIST NI R IC O R D I O LL OR E Abazia P E LE RIELL LE CATEN N CANAL NTA INI E CAMPIELLO A R AN CAM della Misericordia A CAL R D O A SAN MARZIALE A S C ALLE E O N A G C RIO TERÀ S. L RIO TERÀ FO CAMPO NDA UN FOS Chiesa dei Gesuiti SAN LEONARDO D IA INA E FONDAMENTA D LE B LA MEN L NUOVA ISOLA M MADDALE ORD CAMPO CALLE L Palazzo Labia TA TR CA FONDAMENTA S SAFFA Parco COLO NA E Canale della Misericordia ARO Salone del Tiepolo L AP L

A Savorgnan San Leonardo, OL C N R E CA' DEL TRONCHETTO I DIET I A O I NTA R TE N FOND. MISERIC RO LA RÀ A C CAMPO UE CH La Maddalena VENDRA AT Q IE ERINA CAMPO C E SA CHET ISOLA NOVA DEL TRONCHETTO ALLE CALLE PES SAN GEREMIA L A AL Santa Fosca FO DEI GESUITI C NDAM

San Marcuola CA MIN LA R DE STRADA NOVA CAMPIELLO E ENT LLE E C D A ZE C L CAMPO E N DEL REMER ALL A TR ELI FOND. CA F ’ SAN MARCUOLA EN L San Geremia A MISER LE L S.AND A E G CALL FONDA PRIULI AI H REA A Casino E SAN C RGA D PIET ALLE AGAZ SPAGNA TT A ICO O VE V M OLTI M EI BO ENTE di Venezia E L S.Marcuola Rio dei Santi Apostoli RD E L CC C TER People Mover Venezia FOND. AL D N C CAMPO DE SA LE E D I C IA e H ALLE RTOR VENIER E L OVE d L AVALLETTI I I n O a Museo DEL L LE ERBE L AL r A C FONDAMENTA CAMPO G C l A OZZI ISOLA DELLE TRESSE a Civico STUA FONDA DE LA CARITA’ TERÀ LISTA DI n a IULI O C M CALL PR NO EN DEI CORDONI

RI Di Storia LE VIGNOLE ZA CORTE DEL O E TA DO P E L OR BE S.Stae San Felice L O P REMER A Riva de Biaso F RIU AZ R DI BIASI Naturale GA CAL CA L RIO TE L L C I E DE ENDIS Santa Maria RIVA R L VO CALLE STELL A San Zan DEL RU À BARBA FRUTARIOL LTO T Palazzo E LE Rio Ca’ Dolce L ETO L RAM L H O A di Nazareth ERÀ LE VELE DEL

Parcheggio Bus Turistici TEGO IO M CORTE DEL C Degola CA ORA Gidoni E FONDAMEN AG TOLI CAMPO EG POZETO ON R D M E LZI O T T DE ORO VENEZIA SAN ZAN DEGOLA’ OR CA A F L CAMPIELLO E POS

RI IT ALL . DEL A O FONDAMENTA NOVE C C DE LA MADONNA R AL San Stae C IST LL I A SAL LE E LE D T TA DEI S L TRON Ca' Pesaro ST UE NT CA CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO Ponte RADA A MEN CAMPO RIO TER I LLE S NO Santa Sofia VALMARANA T’ANTONIO DEL PESTRIN SQ A D S AE Galleria Internazionale N C L C A R A ALLE Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia NDA ’ DE À CORTE degli Scalzi L N E .S SAN SIMON R FO ARI ’ISO ST O LA OVA C BATAGIA VA San Lazzaro B N d'Arte Moderna V R I E DE A OR ADA DEL P ER S CALLE CALLE ’ CO CORTE L GRANDO T IA DEL FOR Ca’ D’Oro NTI LIST LLE I CAMPIELLO CORTESE A dei Mendicanti C ’ D A Ferrovia C. DEL E A CALL GA A I ND UC AL E CAZZA C A STELLA CAL R C OF RIO B RAMO S SALIZ E CORTE NOVA LE LUNGA A NDIC DE L T CALL LIZADA SA C C. A L VIDA ENTOR A C NTA C CALL A ORSETTI A S LLE DEI IO ALLE ISOLA NOVA DEL TRONCHETTO a S Santi Apostoli ME O CAMPIELLO San Simeone SA EI CALLE LLE n P SAV CAMPIELLO M WIDMANN IO TI RO CALL a OR CALLE O E San Simeon C. LA CA CAM DELLA CASON GAB Z Cà d'Oro Profeta EL l ET R ZI IE LI E D G T PONTE DELLA LIBERTÀ CORTE DEL NNAREG I PUNTA SABBIONI Piccolo INATI LL San Giacomo L NUOVA E r TIOZZI I CA O R RUG A CA a L V ECCHI CAMPIELLO GA DEI BARI A S.Canciano OspedaleDAMENTA D SS. Giovanni e Paolo ARM PAN n O Chiesa Evangelica N dall'Orio SAN CANCIANO CAL N C. TR C NTA DE LE GRUE M N DRIO LE Rio Dei Mendicanti A A d MA LE ICC CAMPO D A C D SCUO LA TESTA FO Ferrovia SAN A e WI CA IN Luterana AME EL LE E P A LLE G D GHETTO VECCHIO LIZ D DIREZIONE MERCATO ITTICO NAZARIO RUGA BELA D E CALLE People Mover Venezia FOND E ME A L S Santa Maria E S FONDAMENTA SANTA L AL CAMPO IM Palazzo CAMPO Z L CALL O FOND C S.MARIA NOVA E SAURO E LA RE AL O AM SAN GIACOMO Mater Domini D CAMPO DELLA CALL C NE Soranzo E E ENT LA E DEI B DALL’ORIO L San Cassiano PESCARIA IAN RG CAMPO L I CANZ A Santa Maria del Pianto SAN SIMON G A R . A CAL A SAN GALL Capello Palazzo Grioni SANTA MARIA C E LIZAD O INA GARZ S SA N NTA Giardino di Palazzo FON L MATER DOMINI OT O RR P.le Roma ERGA E D CAMPO CAMPO TO O IO DEI MIRACOLISanta Maria P F EL O Ferrovia O RTEGO L Soranzo Cappello DAMENTA SAN CASSAN EI B BO E TTI TIN SAN BOLDO CAMPO DE LA A Basilica dei ATO CALLE ORS L dei Miracoli E C M Z ET H T . E D E D NDAME EN TI O S BECARIE DEL EL DE LE A NA ASCHI V CALLE LL E CASTELLO . I C OC R N BO LL San Giovanni C Santi Giovanni e Paolo E CA CAL A ALL FO ONZ FA E IN C LLE CAMPO CA DEL CAMPO ST ’ D D C DE LDO BO LE BB FORN CAL E IU E CALL DE CESARE BATTISTI C NV CA’ CA C. RI CA O G OLO Grisostomo LA I LE C LLE E OCH N DE MUTI Z GIÀ HE CA SANTI GIOVANNI L CI C. DE L’ ST A PPU T CORTE CANAL LA AL N LA B ’AN O EL C I STUA L DELLA LI

M A A Ponte T ONDO OT IA CA TE A L BELLA VIENNA FON DE S GN T E PAOLO SAN A O E TO D EC A T S MEN Teatro Malibran LE EL AT CAMPO I IS ETE A T ’ S LA I C L T A C ALL ALL T NUOVE A R TA DE M E D H A C E LE ER L A SE della Costituzione SAN GIACOMETO SOS N C C N O I N FON. DEI TOLE SE NN A C U LA CROCE ER . DE EN C BE I OVE SC A R OR RUG DE Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto I . CA T M C SA R CAMPO AN L A A A O E AMPI E E AME T IO SCAL D ’ CORTE SECONDA CCHIO SESTI F C D MO GL R R LE DEL E GIOV PA A D LA LUNA L L G. G CA RI LL SS E N ALLE DEI DEL MILION SANT’AGOSTINO CARAMPANE S ELL ALL CALLE MA CO O TE ANS C N RA RO E IER L CA FON O DE San Giacomo S. FON E A R N O DE CAVALL LE CORTE DEL O CA R P TER R N O F ON B SHOPPING DE À GON RE BA LE E SHOPPING DA R VE BAR D IA DE DE L R TEATRO LE CAM E L I S LE . L T CAMPO AL OLE L E LE A L DELL' ZA diI Rialto C E I R D CALLE DE L CHIA S C Casa di Marco Polo L CAL C IO TE A CA L LE CAL R CAST C LLE VE SANTA . A DEL C A CA L M AMENTA PAPADOPOLI CA RAM E SAN FR DE LA A A O C FET E CALLE SA ZO IER GIUSTINA SECONDO NT CAMPIELLO C S Canale De ScomenzeraR Sant'Andrea AN PAN CAMPO Z ANCES AG Giardino Z RAD SESTIE A À S O E CAMPIELLO DETTO DE E E DON RIALTO CO San Francesco INI ALL ALBRIZZI O L A LIO C RUGA VE DE BARBARIA R L N CALLE DE LA DEL SOL NUOVO Fontego A’ E CASTELLO LACA O CA FOND Papadopoli Z MUR T' DEUM TO ELA ANDREA CALLE ZO della Vigna AME L

CAL CA S N PIET CALL L N C TA C dei Tedeschi E O LLE D A E AS N CAL N DE CO O D LE A L E Z AVA CALLE LA CELESTI NU Z R C O A L EI C ALL ELLA V . CCO O D P EL E DEL E DE CAMPO E D C CI C D C EL DEL F Sant’Aponal . DE ONTEG .M L OSE A . D I AMAI CAM NQ ART PI SANTA CAMPIELLO DELLA E CALLE DI MEZZOE OMB D O D E CAMPO GHETA O IN LL L U ST EN O CALLE MAGAZEN R GIUSTINA I U GO D. CONFRATERNITA SAN POLO EL CALLE DEL TE A Ponte E CA GA SA F SAN STIN UR CA D O LL PAL E N FONDAM CALLE E PELL SANTA CROCE N S L GI G LE D CAMPO L I A CAMPO IAZ CORTE O CAMPO RA I ON L ZO CORTE VA AR ZZ IZ RE AP O di Rialto LLE ZADA TREVISAN N M RI RDON CAMPO A EN O Unique in Venice I SAN APONAL DEL NI C VI E O A O I SAN BORTOLOMIO DELLA CELESTIA M TA F DIREZIONE PORTO MARITTIMO R C T ERÀ P C CALLE LATERAN San Nicola TA HI DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN EL P E L I IO O M C S D E People Mover Venezia NI AN CAMPO E R PIAZZALE ROMA E X ESI NE M D V O T LL O RA O A A A LME M CAMPO da Tolentino N ’AR L CALLE NUOVA TABACCHI À C SAN LIO LT D RA M Rialto N L O NT E LLE O ADO O A E CIM O C CAMPIELLO I CORTE C. CAMPIELLO AL OR M ISO CA M LAV LENTI SAN POLO AD CAMPOSan Silvestro S E L TARI D SANTA MARIA RISTO OR L A D DEL MORION RIO TERÀ SANT'A I ESI DEI OMBASEI LIZ DEL V BI SALIZAD DA C E DE E AD . RU RA FORMOSA ONDU E DRI A SANTA TO DOLERA L C F A N A E LA L B I S P FONDAMENTA San Lorenzo GIUS CORTE MELONI SAN SILVESTRO C. A LE L TINA EL L D N LIO L L FON C LE E E D D EI A L A DEI PRETI CAMPO AL L GAL D DE LA F. F. C APR DE C C C I C . C.

R AZZ D A ND RZI AL ALLE ER LE C E CAMPO RE C O L SANTA TERNITA A Rio de le Muneghete LE CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO O VIDA A II L TRONCHETTO DEL LA I Fontego C R IBRE . LARG CA Santa Maria RGA M R I L A S ON. A SAN LORENZO San Rocco Basilica MO D FO CORTE DEL A

L CE F Chiesa Rettoriale LI I AZZ R BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO Z CALL CALLEZ R Santa Maria Z Dolfin Manin Z E SABION CAMPO CORTE Formosa Palazzo N IN A O M DA E LA MA Palazzo Rava I FONDAMENTA MINOTTO E dei Frari O DEL MONDO Rio Nuovo T CAMPO di S. Polo CORTE NOVA IN CAMPOIELLO STAGNERC. DEL DE LA FAVA S T Rialto CORTE I CA della Fava NUOVO IO F ORET ELLODE DE LA PASINA LIC A I E Grimani M Rio San L DE N ON SACCA CALL AR FOND CORTE LLE DE L’OG P SAN SALVADOR CA T DEI FRARI (Palazzo Cavalli) ZAR LIO SA C Rio Del Magazen D O I C. A SAN O D AL O LIZADA AM o della Consolazione O E A E SA CORTE D Z C LE N O

C AM M BEMB V LVA CORTE ONI CA BAN A A DOR S LE DO O RUBBI DE EN CALLE SAN L L A FABBRICA TABACCHI CAMPO L NT TA DE ME ENTA SAN ORENZO LE N S.Silvestro LICINI A LLE E A ERERIA EL O CA T O CAMPIELLO A D DAMENT C O T DR D SA FON SAN ROCCO ANT’ Palazzo CALL E E SA QUERINI L SAL Teatro L San Giovanni A E S E GA S LA AL C L STAMPALIA RUG N NO A L MUS S I IZA CCO C L L G I LE DE E L EVER orenzo DA S CA Querini OR S MA L T MA Carlo Goldoni San Salvador A C A CASTELLO E C R R C di Malta E C A E . DE ZARI GIU E AN P N RO N A CORTE DEL i MEZ S L CA Palazzo A N I L o S CORTE O C L L L A E Z ANTALON SA L LE E DEL C O ALBI LE Stampalia FF CORTE CAL L O San Sal O O TEATRO R ZULIAN B E E DE A P T TE R FRUTARIOLI D L COR N IA CORTE DELLE GATE E LI Querini-Dubois O A CA CA L TEA PIT L SA L’ IERI DEI ALBA CA E ELLO AN ACCA NUOVA I CAL Palazzo L NE D BAL L CALLE C La Biennale di Venezia E e CORTE DEL ALLE L LE LE E CORTE ION ZO L R va INA d R LLE L CALLE DEI FURLANI POZZO ROVERSO CAMPIELLO LO CAMPO C BON A E ZORZI n G P CA C dor C LU SB STRETA CALL D TRAMONTIN CA DA CALLE DEI PRETI CAL AVA IS .D T IO ZA RÀ DEI PENS a Grimani R ELLO PISC LI Educational Arsenale E E A DUE POZZI E r IMA CO L D S CAMPOIELLO L SAN TOMÀ N LU LLE TAG ETI DIREZIONE PORTO MARITTIMO LL E A RONA I PR RIO TE G SA C MARZAR E DE C PIA L NI E C IAPI REME AL A I DE CO C DE LA Arsenale di Venezia l L L CALLE B CAL .D LLE FONDAMENTA a AL I E E DE L RA C. D CALL C F E I E FRATERNA ASEGO n ABB BA A S L EI P ELLA D C C CA a LO ANSan Giuliano E AL San Tomà IGN CAL ALL TE G L L C ZEN R Z C. D E L OL U GAZEN L GA I LIA CORTE E DEL MA I SC E CR E I CALL DE DEL TRAG San LucaCAMPIELLO DEL MA N San Giovanni Novo L San Beneto IA E DEL FORNO UD OS C CAMPO San Pantalon LL T B La Biennale di Venezia Rio dei T DELLA CA CA AL E Sant'Angelo S N I AS SAN ZUANE RDO ARI R CHIESA L LE SM CA O A L CORTE L’ T Giardino delle Vergini ol E NOVO TA DE ION FO ent HETTO CAMPO REDIVO D CRE EN Teatro alle Tese LLE EI NDAM ini Palazzo CORTE GRAGOLINA A AM SA Palazzo ECI M S SPE S FOND LIZA ENTA CO ZI CAZZ DEL P LEONAC D AR CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE A . PI A S L’ A A RI RZARI A GR A N GOLD DARI N DE SCINA SAN MARTIN LA A O FORNO CH I NUOVO CALLE DEL FIGHER N TON NTON E PI Giustinian Nervi O O IN CALL SAN PANTALON I VECCHIO NA DE DURO I T CAMPO L A ERI San Giorgio Rio de le Vergini D O FONDAMENTA RIZ SESTIERE G A RCO E IOLA A L GA RAGUSEI ON EL RA D G PET N AN M . COR Persico NI MANIN C. E E S Scattolin N M CA T E N L C AR I LO Palazzo Fortuny O CAL DI SAN MARCO EA E LE C L LARGA RI dei Greci ATER D ’ A C. DE AZZ O LLE IC CAMPO L TR N P CA ON Canale delle Fondamenta Nuove

LE C. R A R AN FUSERI S. Toma' SX S STR RÀ C C I O LE L O E LA LLE SAN OCANDE E AL CALLE L E L D L DEL L L A LA CERTOSA IO E O LLE A CA L A C

L L RIO TE C R A LE C GI PROVOLO E C CA CORTE DELL’ALBERO T OLA C I E D D E C. DELLE N NAT LLE T E AN O O B G NDAMENTA PROCURATIE CALLE CONT R R LO BAL E PI O A I L CAL I O IN F R AGH À MAND E PIAZZETTA R

ENI V IN O A D Arsenale di Venezia ALL TIERE DORSO SI V LE M S GA C.D SELLO D ST ARINA ER S Rio Del Palazzo S ZA AL L N

C CAMPO Palazzo FONDA RI O C A A L DEI LEONCINI PE S OTO S O S E SALI E C A CORTE CALL DE Palazzo Balbi NN D AT E E T ND. NA À L SAN TERAZZ LLE TO C L E I ER Basilica di San Pietro di Castello SES A RAMO

C I O TER A PRIMO DE LA PER A FO I TORRETTA CA GOLA mo . C FABB E Mocenigo A DE E F T L IO ON ES ASSE LORENZO R M LLE A C E CAMPO N CAMPO F CAL R OR C L E ON CA CA D ELLO I N CALLE NA LLE DEL C A AM SAN GALLO R P DE LLE AL V I TR T DO T L LBA LE A LARGA R A CERERI AP PIE C D R PISCI C TI A TA BANDIERA CALL E M EI FO LE E EN C ’ A T A D . LLE A L MO O RO D CORTE A DE San Zaccaria N

NTA F LE R E DE C LA GRI ME erola E DE E SE T N OSA SCAR E EL OV A CR A S ONDA DEL N DE CALL L’A CAL DELLE ANCORE BIA L V E MORO LLE San Martino R A O E N FONDAM NA S. CA OS SEO FO A A CA RS T F O N D A LL IN TA’ Basilica ERA A L ALLE AD E V E E C LLED A IOL PE I AG L A R E D M E C A CAL C OL L P FONDAMENTA N TA A R S E N M A FRUTA E L C

AL ’ V C CAMPO DI S L S C. E US C O RAMO LA

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ELE AL EC di San Marco PIO A L G San A DE L ALLE DEL U C L

L E E DEI CHIA E O Santa Maria CO MU E L SALIZ CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI IN DEL D TA ROSSA E E SANTA CAMPIELLO CAMPO RT LA M VA FONDAM I I E DE R L IN O DOSE LE San Giovanni Battista TERC CA N ARSENALOTTI HE E ELE LE C CAL ZZ Bacino VE Bacino Stazione Marittima EG L E della Pietà NT DE LA FE DEI E CROSERA L FO L DEI MARGHERITA T RO V LE IER LI CA O CALL DEL A IN CAL VIDA CAMPO RI in Bragora SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO SQUELINI N Orseolo ET La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale a ZZE A

SAN MARCOA E F e SALIZADA S. SAM I FRE RI MOR d Rio DE OND. RI E C. VOLTO B D NOL E A ALLE G C. DEI TO L SANT’ANZOLO IN n E BOT C SC ARRO SCA O NTA DE L' ARZ RIO TERA I OR PI C CA IO C L E S ’OG San Fantin L INA E L DE P LLE D ALL CAMPO RDO OZZE DE E C E F O N D CA NA a R E GHE AL Palazzo R L ALL PIAZZA SAN MARCO Palazzo Ducale E AL A M LLE BER L EGHE E CA C E N CA CA L IESA R I VA D E G L I S C H I AV O N I L TA A N L E G i DEI A OT LA CH NI R S EL D LLE DE LE C IO GLI SCHIAVONI A E N in O DR R EN A L l E ES R E E L R D MU TA CAL C CA E I V A D E S LO CASTEL A Grassi FO L R T U CARMINI LE C CAL L E UG AR Carm G CA H ALLE RI D Santo Stefano NI V I Museo DEI AR FO SAN PIETRO

BRIATI L CA ARA O T ’ M D LE A A E L LLE T CA L LE LE CA LA IANI C A L D INTA C E L VECCH Rio del ERA A E L’ . San Samuele r A E DE LE PRIMORIN Correr CA VID Ca' Rezzonico O A RGA QU MEN T D A A NAL RAM RE a Teatro la Fenice E CON N FONDAMENTA SANTA MAR ’ E’ T O D CAMPO COR A CAMPO AM S. Samuele AS LO Santa Maria T E CAMPIELLO MOIS E SAL ALLE FOND S. Zaccaria (Pieta') L P A L n C. D AL C Canale Scomenzera S E I C C A SANTO STEFANO A LA T A A ZI DEI CALEGHERI DI E A D CIN NA Ca' Rezzonico NSION dei Carmini SC IS ENZE S. Zaccaria (Danieli) MEN d E P C CALLE CROSERA L RA A MO DE O LA A Solo Se... S TANA A A San Moisè ST San Barnaba e FONDAMENTA F O N Z RTOR CAMPO E D A M E N TA C. ZE San Maurizio R I O D E L L EL A RDINI C MOLO SAN MARCO DEI FORNI A TA N R Palazzo Loredan A FOND A S LO GHER LL CAL LONGHI A LO A SAN MOISE’ C A CAMPIEL TA CORTE CAL CA N F CC CA E ON L . LA L D AMEN V I LE ’ N MARZO N LLE PO O OR FO MICHIEL II L O C XX CALLE V L DE LE A OR RIE DAMENT R L IA LLE RGA E DEI PR C A E A L An atelier dedicated to Made in CAL I E L E TR CH CA E L L S F LLE L

CAL Rio San Moise LI Arsenale ED A CAMPO A LO NICOL N O Santa Maria CA EG RESS ZO D R F LTRE ED A LE E V AN P S L RI Museo Storico Navale di Venezia IZ RIDO LLE TA A P L IE T O A N SAN MAURIZIO I ’ MA A ZIEN O CI A C NUO IA del Giglio CALLE DEL O RA San FrancescoR RCA HIN N M ALLE SAN SAN SE I ETI OACC C CAMPO D TTO CALLE DI CA ORN FOND. SAN GI C E AR Italy women’s clothing,ZE footwear F E LUNGA SAN BARNABA A V

L L P JAEGER-LECOULTRE EMILIO CECCATO IWC SCHAFFAUSEN L SANTA MARIA LL A Angelo CAMPO GIUST TIR di Paola A N N A San Nicolò CA CALLE S A N T ' E E CAMPO DEL F O N D A M E N TA C DRIO IL T AT B N A I G E L L A C EMIA DEL GIGLIO I BASTIA STRIN C A G ALL CORTE E Raffaele CIMITERO LLE San Vidal E R T DE IMANI dei Mendicoli E CAL LAR PISANI T BAROZZI RAG D See page 28. L CALL See page 60. See page 28. EATA EUF DONI and accessories, featuring a small B ON FI E S. Marco (Vallaresso) N NA E ETTO CAMPO I E P E CASE NUOV L L CALL P Palazzo CAL HETTO E D E DE L’ANZOLO U CAL 100 m L L A C CAMPO TI VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDICAL LE S Istituto Universitario RAFAEL CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO L L A C GE DA SAN SEBASTIAN I Corner E RAGH Ca' Giustinian

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local artisans. A delightful, stylishly N A CA A S T TTI LE

N N NA O CALLE SAN BASILIO Palazzo T

RI S FFE O L O P E I SEB ● SAN ALI Ponte C O R ZADA S CAMPO C . SE AN BESA NT O CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI DELLA CARITÀ Pisani S A DORSODURO ASTIAN E G dell'Accademia ER IO GIA A I B decoratedCALLE DEspace LA CHIESA where you can find DOM C FO Santa Maria R I VA D E I S E T T E M A R T I R I B ChiesaN di Ognissanti E P P . DAM AN Gritti N I ENT D O N C A REMIT S DE E del Giglio E O A E COLONNE GN T I L SANT E N Gallerie G TA LL I C E E Salute and American art fairs.NICO Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 N C L L CAMPO E a R CA na e I R A AM l Grand E C O M A R I N A I SAN BESAGIO TTI FO N SV Lab S S A outfits designed to be worn on all DA dell'Accademia ME O Palazzo NTA T O ND SAL L DAM UTE

N B CAMPO CALL EL FOND. DE FO CA LL LA FO E DEL PIST Genovese DELLA Sun 10am-6pm. www.ravagnangallery.com. Piazza 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso ORT O Collezione Peggy OGNIS R C. CO SANT I D E C SALUTE I C A As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a DA occasions. In addition to the above,NTI Santhe Trovaso 'AGN R Guggenheim T E DE CAMPO DI ESE Punta della Dogana E N L ENTA SAN GIUSEPPE E IES P LE F C SAN VIO ONDAM NI ALLE I CALLE DEL BASTION T I DAM ETRO T N AL NA C San Marco, 50/a. T: 041 5203021. Vaporetto line 1 (San stop). Map F4 NI A I E C L N FO EN LE D A FODAMENTA ZATTERE TA O E creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes LL San Giuseppe BONLINI CAMPO N A store also carries a number of original CH Basilica di I TIA E San Gregorio SAN TROVASO SCARIN SA MENTA NA IER di Castello 100 m S. Basilio A FO ND. VENIER DA I FONDAMENTA Santa Maria Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 EN LEON SEBAS OND R to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop AL PONT F della Salute BRAGADIN CAMPO objet d’art, including beautiful wooden O ENIE TA ENI N ISEPO NI ISCINA V N UM NI V TEC P CA SA E LONGO TERRÀ O SAN ISEPO TA RIO RÀ T'ANTO ION E O T SAN RIO TERRÀ FO EN I O I SAL selling shoes and accessories - a place where you R D SAB FON U DEPARTMENT STORES FONDAME PAL S R ducks and penguins from Indonesia… EL Melori & Rosenberg Gallery IO RE A OR D

DA CALLE C TER Santa Maria E FONDAM A E TE O LL D

A E CAPPUZZI AT LU i MEN N V I A L E X X I V NES SALI R Z Giardini E PA Z À Z can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but ADA L CORT

del Rosario DEL n S M A G G I Sant’Agnese FORN FORNACE DELLA O CAL N I NTA O O A i TAFORNACE Opened in 1996, it was the first Gallery to exhibit D in an ongoing quest for taste. LONI Chiesa di A Coin Excelsior CALLE CAMPO DI G DEL NAVARO AME d

Chiesa di Santa Maria LENA SANT'AGNESE RA RI O TERR À SAN VI O San Giorgio Maggiore B F also an open space where it is not unusual to find r ON A FOND E DAM CINA SANT'AG della Visitazione EN IS NT contemporary art in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. a TA ZAT P S. Giorgio ME Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the TE i RE A AI G RE ESU ND AT I artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun G Dorsoduro, 1057. FO BILI

Giudecca Hilton RA A unique Italian representative for Luigi Rocca’s

L L O S A N l Rialto Bridge,VEMB this luxury department store store CU Zattere N I V I

TE FONDA e LE O NO FOND 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo N M L AMEN T: 041 5227727. EN R A L E G IA R TO BEATE G TA ZATTERE DELA CREA d CALLE V IULI CA artworks, the Gallery also showcases the artworks AN United States I CAMPIELLO A extends over four floors surrounding the original A C A L LLO S M O L E M O N T E P DEL VAPORETTO PI E A S U B I O R o ITO ZUCCHE Pavilion S A San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio i NT www.soloseabbigliamento.it O of other well-known Italian and internationalRussia artists. LLE VIAL CALLE Spirito Santo FO indoorR courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s N CA DAMENTA D Pavilion Giudecca Hilton ZATTERE V I N I P U B B L IC I MC . stop). MapISOLA E5 DI Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www. IALE O lighting installation is showcased.F The store provides N T ONDA Spirito Santo PI Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo CALLE DE LA SA Japan SE A B O AVE SAN AVE FONDAM SAN GIORGIO melori-rosenberg.com. Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo C . D E SACCA CA a selection of both Italian and International fashion Pavilion L C A R S O MEN

CALLE DEL VAPORETTO ENTA SAN BIAGIO T I del Ghetto Novo). T: 041 2750039. Vaporetto line 4.1 N O ART GALLERIES TA CA MAGGIORE brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), CALLE DE LLE LARGFISOLA A D T LLA CHIESA EI L NTA SAN GIOVANNI S AV RANE ' RI E ANT'E or 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop). Map D4 LE cosmetics andRALE CHINOTTO luxury perfumery (ground floor). PON ONDAME N E TE F LLA N LA Bugno Art Gallery V A L L E G E A RA C RE C Ò NERI . Z U G N A LENA Sant'Elena SACCA style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Situated in front of the La Fenice Theatre, the Open daily 10am-8.30pm.SA www.coinexcelsior.com. San Gerardo Sant'Eufemia PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you P A S ICOL Zitelle CLOTHING F. N Gabriele Gmeiner Giudecca Palanca Le Zitelle Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or CAMPIELLO C A L F O N D A M E N TA S A N T ' E U L E N Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. L SAN CATALDO gallery has cooperated with well-known artists E SANT'ELENA SAN BIAGIO CAMPIELLO E C can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat Teatro Verde AL A SAN GERARDO LL R Austrian by birth and Venetian by adoption, C N A R O VIALE 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3 Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido F E M www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle on the Venetian scene including Guidi, Giuseppe I A 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 CAL MEN & WOMEN Gabriele GneimerLE is a real footwear guru, boasting CONVE RT della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Santomaso, Emilio Vedova and Armando Pizzinato, R I V I E R A S A ITE F FONDAMENTA ZITE V I A L E I V N O V E M B R E (Calle delONDAM Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 T Fondaco dei Tedeschi E NTA Parco delle an impressive resume. The designer studied at PO NTE O Al Duca d'Aosta PIC CO Rimembranze LO (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 as well as other international contemporary painters. DO E NEW V I AOPENING L E V I T T O R I O V E N E T O (Rialto stop).N Map F4 The recently renovated 16th T LL'OLI Lido S. Nicolo' AR several of the world’s most prestigious design GIUDECCA M Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca CA RRA L P O D I L E F O N D A M E N AM Particularly noteworthy among the illustrious names E LE DE COS FE TA Redentore L L O C MO I AL S A N G I century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a TA ERB A C O M O IL C E schools and several of her handcraftedDA pieces are T L Piedàterre CAMPIE d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the L E SANT’ELENA C ON DE FONDAMENTA CROCE C

La Parigina CAL AL NOB TRE represented by the gallery are Luca Campigotto, T E A L S LUNGO CALLE MASON LE LL E luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. O RO L E GRANDE O exhibited at museums. Her shoes, known as ‘Ferrari CA M SP Scuola Navale Militare A O Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, E N T PONT A M C I H E L A N G E L O I ZIO AC N An historicCALLE Venetian shoeO shop which has been CAL G R Paolo Ventura, Ben Vautier, Mario Schifano, Arman, C GI L "Francesco Morosini" E D EL AN LA Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers CORT I CROC L L E R A M O ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA F A SAN E C Footwear’, are built entirely around the shape of her DAME Santissimo Redentore Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice LE L ON producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather O Salvo, Joe Tilson, Maurizio Galimberti, Marco Zanta, F ER CA CALLE U FO AMENTA Q LLE ACCADEMIA DEI NDAME the best in leading Italian and international fashion NTA D GER customers’ feet. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. PAL LAD L L E S A A CA ON CALLE MORE selection of handmade slippersC where Alessandra N CALLE location features over 100 top fashion brands F SCU shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also O Giovanni Chiaramonte. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- LA Santa Croce K L I E brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines C C By appointment only. www.gabrielegmeiner.com. BE O AMPO J and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ R R for men and women, carefully selected to offer A C E VIA ALLE C

stocks a wide E selection of international brands SCU O NDERI 7pm; Sun 4pm-7.30pm by appointment. www. O LA L CA F U LLE A L RIO BER O NGHANS DE and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich DELLA San Polo, 951 (Campiello del Sol). T: 338 8962189. TA N L L E LLE (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre its clientele quality and elegance. These include A E CA including Church’s,C Timberland, Camper, Michael M A bugnoartgallery.it. San Marco, 1996/d (Campo San selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map E3 FOND treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial Kors, BikkembergRio del Ponte sandals Lungo and Siton loafers. Fantin). T. 041 5231305. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San LÒ CALL E ORT I Their creations are available in coloured velvet, curated cultural program on the 4th floor and La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4 designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s Hundertwasser' Garden the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In V AI C Giovanna Zanella sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am- brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler provided by their customers. PASSION TIP Contini Galleria d’Arte collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also PI R O ERA SAN NICO 7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto I Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open Established at the end of the 1960s by Stefano for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store RIV O shoes for men and women at her workshop located daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. Contini to indulge his passion for art, the gallery offers numerous special facilities and services for its payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind RIN 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. MA just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). is a reference point for dealers and collectors customers, including a Personal Shopping service in Europe. Open daily, 9.30am-7.30pm (October- Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido March) and 9.30am-9.30pm (April-September). www. is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality stop). Off Map T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). specializing in contemporary art works and and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am- TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute Map E3 sculptures. In addition to Venice, other branches 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San DELL'OSPIZIO couture creations” because they are often enhanced Macrì of the Contini galleries are located in Mestre and Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 V I A René Caovilla (Rialto stop). Map E3 by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch Cortina D’Ampezzo. Artists showcased include stop). Map F4 In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point Botero, Mitoraj, Christo, Picasso, Fontana and V I A F R A N C E S C O D U O D O at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent V I A C I P R O www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Giacometti. Open daily 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7.30pm. Boggi Milano FASHION OUTLETS as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and www.continiarte.com. San Marco, 2288 (Calle Larga An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of S. Servolo Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet (Rialto stop). Map F4 women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy XXII Marzo). T: 041 5230357. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 Marco-Vallaresso). Map E5 V I A M . F O S C A R I N I visitors can find their favourite labels with price V I A F R A N C E S C O D U O D O Giuliana Longo (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers Galleria Ravagnan cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice

IA AQUILEIA

discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. V dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997. who adore his creationsISOLA include LA GRAZIA Gwen Stefani, Robin Founded in 1967, in a fairly small yet evocative space the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second

Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. in the historic centre, the Ravagnan Gallery is one skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on SANany SERVOLOFrom iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, RIVIERA SANTA MARIA ELISABETTA V I A F R À M A U R O

IRNE of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Michele De Fina PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly of the city’s oldest, most exclusive art galleries in occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, M Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla. the city. It exhibits works by artists of national and Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, V I A S true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, stage of the working process from the cutting of the com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line international renown, exports art works throughout Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, original panama hats and handmade headgear. leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the region, the world and participates at prominent international Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.

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Boncompagni Venezia 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks stop). Map F5 stop). Map E3 Artistic glass in Murano some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted Nardi Venezia PASSION SHOPPING The Merchant of Venice pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. A combination of a love of precious stones and a The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand ww.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, Ca’ Macana passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of stop). Map F4 in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in Cartier in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style In addition to its renowned collections of haute ago, never repeating a decoration in order to ensure stop). Map F5 of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless that each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, is not only a line of products but a wider project timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, they also hold conferences and courses on the history Omega which includes a concept store in Murano, the enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. of Venetian masks and traditional mask-making Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. techniques. PASSION TIP Their masks were Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 featured in important film productions including “Eyes of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www. 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am- stop). Map F5 those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily of these precious creations thanks to its extensive 7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Chopard collection of luxurious timepieces for men and 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. stop). Map F4 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5 opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Venini Zaccaria stop). Map F4 An artistic space, where you rediscover all the traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of La Bottega dei Mascareri elegance and sophistication of the exquisite a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm. The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in Glassmaking had already become an sought out the glassblowers of Murano to Pomellato creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over from Murano. A prime location for passionate integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon produce their famous works. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated collectors, or those whose want to further their in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after As a result of this experience, during the the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th Damiani wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian the year 1000 A.D. its production had mid-20th century, real masters of the art century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for NEW OPENING A reference point in the sought-after collections featuring a range of stones glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are become so important that it was protected began to emerge in Murano including world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. considered among several of the most established by specific laws: the furnaces used to Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal. for its unmistakable style and innovative technical Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other manufacturers of collector’s items. PASSION TIP solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 create the molten glass were a constant fire Their works are highly coveted objects, They were the first mask makers to embellish their setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco- 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco hazard in the narrow streets of Venice. As true collectors’ items which are often masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am- stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso stop). Map F4 stops). Map F4 6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto a consequence, all the glass workshops displayed at museums. Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Salvadori were moved to Murano where they are still Murano has numerous glass factories, Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in located today. several of which boast an age-old history Dodo Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation It was here that eyeglasses were invented (i.e.Barovier&Toso) or a list of particularly The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini). by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open mirrors began to be produced. It was also Crafting authentic Murano glass is no by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. here that, in 1450, Angelo Barovier invented easy task and does not come cheap. Large has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza crystal. Glass was a rare commodity objects require hours of work, so don’t Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique throughout the Renaissance: it was only expect to take your custom-made lamp 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori in 1827 that production on an industrial home on the same day. Furthermore, stop). Map F3 Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso level began. At that point, blown glass or each piece is unique meaning that small Gems of Venice stop). Map F5

glass produced by lampworking became imperfections are an integral part of the For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has a highly prized material used for artistic value of the object. Finally, the island’s sourced the most precious stones, which are then Tag Heuer Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones purposes, achieving its height of splendor glass factories are equipped to make safe processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker during the Art Nouveau period. Artists deliveries anywhere in the world… ask art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am- to master luxury sports chronographs with an including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany your concierge! 2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 quest for innovation, excellence, performance and prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close IWC Schaffausen Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada even an annual summer music festival. Tax refund Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto An exclusive collection brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most stop). Map F4 for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily The Merchant of Venice exemplifies the historic role played by the city of Venice, mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any Tiffany & Co. worldwide, in the art of perfume-making. Founded by Mavive, it carries a selection Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are NEW OPENING Founded in 1837 in New Map Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six of different product lines inspired by the tradition of the Venetian Republic; sublime

watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. craftsmanship and trade with the Far East. At its Flagship Store in Campo San Fantin Palmanova Outlet Village Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany® Setting JEWELRY & WATCHES the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat you can discover the Murano Exclusive Collection. An ideal combination of unique Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, fragrances; created by renowned master perfumers, they have the added refinement Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands Audemars Piguet Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection discounted by up to 70% and open all year or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, of being contained in typical Venetian blue and gold coloured glass bottles. A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars including the elegant, minimalist creations Reinterpreting the most classic shapes of Murano glass design in a modern-day key, Jaeger-LeCoultre Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured A meeting place for collectors and haute these masterpieces and are further enriched by decorations that originally inspired the Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers name of each perfume. many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, will have the pleasure of discovering the latest addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am- San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. creations and exquisite timepieces designed by makes you discover a land full of history and taste: stop). Map F4 7.30pm. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 www.themerchantofvenice.com the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily

28 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 29 SHOPPING SHOPPING Top antiques

041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Venezia, Le Stampe Turio Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am- 12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 Tessitura Bevilacqua or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Artisanal weavers specializing in the production Studio Arga of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and PASSION TIP The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a the company has practiced the art of weaving on must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. original looms that once belonged to the Venetian www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4 Tessitura Bevilacqua Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell Venice is infused with so many Antichità Zanutto “modern object that speak an ancient language”. historical and artistic artefacts Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of that the city’s passion for antiques 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with handbags and other accessories inspired is literally embedded within its a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open soul. There are so many large and evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San small workshops that it is almost 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto impossible to list them all. Where® (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or Map E5 has selected a pick, renowned for San Marco stop). Map E5 their quality and tradition. Venezia, Le Stampe Turio Ca’ Nova At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' continues a family tradition established at the Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated end of the 19th century by her great grandfather several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, Alessandro Zoppi upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. Venetia Studium A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am- PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative most passionate and authoritative collectors and 12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Antichità San Samuele Ca' Nova where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum Franco Dell’Orto features a number of pieces from his impressive This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through European tapestries and large-scale decorative 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm- house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro 7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 email: [email protected]. (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Antichità San Samuele Le Zoie An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. Vianello is renowned for her research and PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am- medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. 12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 www.lezoie.com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Alessandro Zoppi Franco Dell'Orto Antichità Zanutto

30 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 31 IN SEARCH OF EXCELLENCE BY STEFANO TRAINE JADE MARTINE The most luxurious lingerie in Venice can be found at this small yet charming boutique that Stephanie and Leila run with ‘Venetian’ AN ANCIENT warmth and French charm. Sophisticated VOCATION underwear and accessories, either for Venice’s natural ability personal use or ultra-feminine, high-quality for trade dates way gifts. This boutique stocks a wide assortment back in time. Bearing of beautiful items, and courteous assistants in mind that each day, are always on-hand to offer useful advice. Isola di San Michele Santa Croce Cannaregio whatever the season, A reference point in St. Mark’s since 1995. Nicolao Atelier the city’s treasures attract thousands of San Marco, 1645. T: 041 5212892. visitors from all over the world, it’s no surprise that every corner of Venice is San Polo packed with shops and Gems of Venice Castello ‘botteghe’ selling all Vino e... Vini kinds of merchandise. Dorsoduro San Marco So, we suggest Testolini that you try to be a Jade Martine little selective when Ottica Mantovani NICOLAO ATELIER shopping. Make sure An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian- that you choose a shop Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore style period costumes for movies, plays, that really expresses commercials and Carnival parties. the soul of the city. Giudecca Here are a few tips for quality shopping. www.nicolao.com Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.

VINO E... VINI This must-visit wine ‘boutique’ is located just steps from San Marco. It carries a prestigious selection of Italian and foreign wines as well as an extensive assortment of dessert wines and exclusive grappas.

Castello, 3566 (Salizada del Pignater). T: 041 5210184.

Ottica Mantovani GEMS OF VENICE TESTOLINI dal 1871 In the heart of Venice near the Rialto Bridge, this is a Montblanc, Parker, Tucano, Montegrappa unique boutique and workshop where precious stones and FaberCastell and are just some of OTTICA MANTOVANI are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works the brands on sale at this ‘boutique’, Sun and prescription glasses, the most of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has a go-to address for collectible pens, technologically advanced lenses and the sourced several of the world's most precious stones high-quality gift items and small leather most comfortable, fashionable frames. including jade, diamonds and gems… taking us back to goods for the office. Managed by the Carlon family since the 40’s. the fascinating voyages of Venetian merchant Marco Polo. www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.otticamantovani.it www.gemsofvenice.it www.testolini.it. T: 02 xxxxx San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto-Rughetta Ravano) San Marco, 4744/45/46. More info: www.wheremilan.com T: 041 5223427. T: 041 5225148 (Calle dei Fabbri). T: 041 5223085.

More info: www.where-venice.com

32 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM Alla Borsa Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 TASTING EXPERIENCE (Rialto stop). Map E4 Located just a stone’s throw from the La Enoteca Al Volto Fenice Opera House and St. Mark’s square, Antiche Carampane Excellent wine accompanied by traditional you can enjoy tantalizing, beautifully prepared A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Mediterranean cuisine at this elegant eatery. has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming The kitchen is open from 12pm to midnight. address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and €€€. www.ristoranteallaborsa.com. San Marco, Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 2018 (Calle de le Veste). T: 041 5235434. top quality ingredients is accompanied by an 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E5 astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and stop). Map E4 Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Alla Madonna Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto- L’Aciughet a Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s Mercato stop). Map E3 Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long most picturesque corners, the Rado family “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its Antico Martini butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in welcoming ambience, characterized by an Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ for the typical regional cuisine served here. attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 Vaporetto Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5 Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional Alle Testiere Antico Pignolo “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and Set in the heart of Venice between the The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s Square, this tiny beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 restaurant is the connoisseurs’ choice for fresh traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well- 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map fish and seafood, with a menu that changes stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from F4 frequently and a discerning selection of all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San wines. €€€. www.osterialletestiere.it. Castello, Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. TRADITIONAL 5801 (Calle del Mondo Novo). T: 041 5227220. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

ITALIAN CUISINE Conca d’Oro Antica Carbonera Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the A Beccafico Arte Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers It offers several dining spaces and a small inner its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and time, this Venetian institution has been turning with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since © MARTA BUSO FOR DFS © MARTA out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto stop). Map E5 €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 A la Vecia Cavana Three letters that embody taste Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used The ground floor atrium of luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi is home to AMO, the to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. new exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ embodying the real soul of Venice, with its symbols and mysteries. By Stefania Vida d’Oro stop). Map F3 Acqua Pazza t T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, Venice’s and the walls feature patterns inspired by the >> AMO Set against the magical backdrop of Campo new and dazzlingly luxurious Carnival of Venice. c/o T Fondaco di Tedeschi by DFS Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining A department store, both Venetians The cafeteria, which is open throughout Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) experience under the stars. This small corner of and international visitors can satisfy their the day, begins serving food in the morning, www.alajmo.it/amo Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San gourmet palates at AMO, the new location starting with breakfast. The menu features a www.tfondaco.com Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 recently opened by the Alajmo brothers list of different types of Italian coffees paired (Rialto stop).Map E4

(Massimiliano and Raffaele), from one of Italy’s with several light gastronomic offerings (with Al Colombo most revered culinary families. and without flour), and pastries where butter is A meeting point since 1986 for an international AMO is not simply a restaurant, but a place substituted with olive oil. The counter located clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark where the simple, authentic and light inside the cafeteria welcomes guests with an features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, ingredients featured on the menu combine to array of individually sliced cakes and macarons, guests can dine outside under the romantic light free the spirit and open the heart. gourmet sandwiches, ‘pizzette’ and a special of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or A great design space, where no detail has been type of fried ‘cicchetto’ that changes on a daily 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3 left to chance and is magnificently curated, basis. in this instance by the well-known French The lunch and dinner menus, on the other Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. designer and architect Philippe Starck! Each hand, offer a selection of meat, fish and Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect piece of furniture is an embodiment of pure vegetable dishes, three different types of pizza spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long LA CARAVELLA Venetian spirit. The sofas have been designed (oven-baked, steamed or fried) and classic day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. Set in an evocative and romantic ambience, this haven of culinary excellence boasts a to look like gondolas, the windows have been ‘Alajmo’ dishes including ‘Cappuccino di T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 fabulous selection of Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. See page 37 (Lido stop). Map E3

forged by master glassblowers from Murano patate’ (potato capuccino)…Bon apetit! DE FINA @DFS PHOTOS MATTEO

34 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING “Five star” restaurants

Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida Club del Doge L’Alcova with a touch of culinary excellence thanks La Cusina La Cupola c/o The Gritti Palace (www.thegrittipalace.com). c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a c/o The Westin Europa & Regina Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic (www.starwoodhotels.com). T: 041 794611. T: 0 41 2413111. ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.clubdeldoge.com. www.casagredohotel.com. of an ancient Venetian vessel. PASSION TIP In www.lacusina.it. The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, For a regenerating lunch break between visiting dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of internal Venetian courtyard. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm, one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. dinner 7pm-11pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking

one. From April to October (weather permitting), the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its La Cupola the city’s historic architecture, while savouring Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines c/o Hotel Carlton on the Grand Canal the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance (formal) 7pm- 10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm- Santa Croce, 578. the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5 2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ T: 041 2752200. of the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner d’Oro stop). Map E3 www.carltongrandcanal.com. 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San De Pisis A jewel in style both the venue and the atmosphere. Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. La Caravella The menus are inspired by the traditions of Venetian, San Marco, 1413/d. c/o Hotel Saturnia Italian and international cuisine with genuine Le Maschere T: 041 5207022. Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. ingredients but with an innovative and original c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.bauervenezia.com. T: 041 5208901. touch. An ideal place for your celebrations or for a San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the www.restaurantlacaravella.com simple romantic evening in Venice. Vaporetto line 1 www.starhotels.com. backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Opened in 1963, the La Caravella restaurant (Riva de Biasio stop). Map C3 Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, the Le

Acquerello Restaurant is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia Maschere restaurant is set against the backdrop c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian Isola di San Clemente, 1. evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient courtyard. Here you can sample authentic T: 0 41 4750111. menu you can also choose from a selection of typical pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. €€€. Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and www.kempinski.com. gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. €€€. guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5 Do Leoni Le Maschere one of the most unique and original tradition with creative and surprising c/o Hotel Londra Palace. restaurants in Venice. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm, combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Aromi Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. T: 041 5200533. stop). Map F4

as its food: situated next to the XII-century church Giudecca, 810. www.londrapalace.com. of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large T: 041 2723311. The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Oro terrace, is located next to one of the island’s www.molinostuckyhilton.it. Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. private landing stages and offers an incomparable Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines Giudecca, 10. view over the lagoon and St. Mark’s Square. offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more T: 041 240801. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. €€€. Hotel’s created using only the freshest ingredients based creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the www.belmond.com. complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this Map international gastronomic association “Chiane des further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your Aman Venice Restaurant special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. €€€. Vaporetto Terrazza Danieli golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian T: 041 2707333. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6 tradition. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner www.aman.com. Il Giardino Segreto 7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). The exclusive restaurant at the Hotel Aman Canova c/o Boscolo Venezia. Map F6 Venice offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 to several specialties created by starred Milanese San Marco, 1243. (Calle Larga Piave). Terrazza Danieli chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary T: 041 5289840. T: 041 2208110. c/o Hotel Danieli (www.danielihotelvenice.com). offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’ . www.baglionihotels.com. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com. Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso This restaurant pays tribute to Italian gastronomy T: 041 5226480. yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant and excellence. Thanks to thematic islands featuring www.terrazzadanieli.com. caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus an open-plan kitchen, you can watch the chef A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San and tastings featuring the best of traditional turning out his culinary delights while you wait. The Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an Silvestro stop). Map E4 Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only restaurant offers a fabulous selection of fine wines exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off and champagnes to accompany your choice of fish featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal Antinoo’s by a wine list offering a wide selection of national or meat courses. Also serves tantalizing aperitivi. €€€. ingredients. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. and international labels. Open: lunch 12.30-2.30pm, Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1 breathtaking view over the lagoon. Open: lunch Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. dinner 7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San 12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto www.sinahotels.com. Marco-Vallaresso stop) or 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 Fronting the Grand Canal, Antinoo’s Lounge & stop). Map F5 Do Leoni

36 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 37 DINING DINING Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro Quadri Venissa c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Piazza San Marco, 121 Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) Giudecca, 10 T: 041 5222105 T: 041 5272281 T: 041 240801 www.alajmo.it www.venissa.it www.belmond.com A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from On the one hand its vegetable gardens and A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this and precious fabrics housed in one of the most intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, presented... without forgetting its spectacular view prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try over piazza San Marco. Map F4 seasonal ingredients. Off Map

the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6

Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Osteria da Fiore

Met

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Il Ridotto By Stefania Vida

Dopolavoro 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu Quadri Dopolavoro Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco employing traditional elements is revised daily, T: 041 8521300 with the offerings tending toward lighter, but www.jwvenice.com wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after A particular characteristic? It only has work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini 9 tables. Map F4 is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private Met island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 Venetian lagoon. After a day of business T: 041 5240034 meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious www.hotelmetropole.com gourmet recipes with an individual flavour Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted chef. Off Map at promoting the Italian region.

Its menu features recipes based on traditional Il Ridotto Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served T: 041 5208280 in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its www.ilridotto.com carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro Venissa

38 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 39 DINING DINING

La Piscina atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or gourmets as a fantastic restaurant. A farmhouse aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking from the exterior, it has been renovated with great 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour charm, exuding an understated elegance with Top coffee and pastry shops or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Kosher traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. paired with wines selected from amongst the best www.locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, in Venice Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the If you are already familiar with Jewish 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6 a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest Muro enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the dietary laws, or want to try a new a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations La Porta d’Acqua Comprising two separate areas. Muro San Stae madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant serves wonderful pizza and traditional Venetian boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch here are some great addresses that is housed in a 15th century building and decorated and Mediterranean dishes, prepared with fresh seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine ingredients, while Muro Frari embodies Venice’s was mainly frequented by an international clientele. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan love for fish enhanced with an Eastern twist. Open www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively daily 12pm-3pm and 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Muro San 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Stae: Santa Croce 2048 (Campiello dello Spezier). yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. T: 041 5241628. San Stae boat stop. Muro Frari: San Dal Mas a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4 Polo 2604 b/c. T: 041 5245310. Vaporetto line 1 (San Located just a few minutes from the railway station, for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here Tomà stop). Map D4

this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice La Zucca treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing While La Zucca isn’t only a vegetarian restaurant, Taverna al Remer ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 it’s a great place for anyone who likes vegetables. Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Zucca’s chefs turn common garden-variety ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, is also a chocolate shop where you can find single ingredients likes carrots and eggplant into works of which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three culinary art. €€€. Closed on Sundays. www.lazucca. the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often brightly-coloured macarons. separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco- it. Santa Croce, 1762. T: 041 5241570. Vaporetto line surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3 Wednesdays. €€€. www.alremer.it. Cannaregio, Caffè Florian (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks Lineadombra stop). Map F3

that can be enjoyed in between browsing the Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Wildner with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco KOSHER RESTAURANT www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San GHIMEL GARDEN T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or The restaurant offers kosher specialties (Salute stop). Map E5 fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 2 (Rialto stop). including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. and typical fish-based dishes. The menu Locanda Cipriani re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. is accompanied by a great selection of For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or strictly kosher wines. Halav. Lemehadrin. worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost high quality of its products, its atmosphere and Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee a perfect opportunity to step back in time and ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 Cannaregio, 2873 (Campo del Ghetto shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either Silvestro stop). KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Da Fiore Giorgione Harry’s Bar Located just a 10-minute walk from A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers top- A typical Venetian restaurant offering its clientele Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. an unusual combination of Venetian specialties renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin and live music for a relaxing break, features a mix here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it is the only kosher residence in Venice. transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s of great food and entertainment. €€€. Castello, first opened, of almost every famous name to Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and 1533 (Via Garibaldi). www.ristorantegiorgione.it. visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover it is equipped with all the necessary superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully T: 041 5228727. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity accoutrements for the strict observance selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore stop). Map H5 to step back in time and savour its slightly retro of Kasheruth and Halacha. a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. Gran Canal www.pardesrimonim.net. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop)

tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Da Mario alla Fava and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO Lying in the heart of Venice, near to the Church seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on Il Nuovo Galeon EBRAICO DI VENEZIA of Santa Maria alla Fava, from which it takes its its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Indulge in flavoursome break at the name, this small restaurant offers a calm, relaxing onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. atmosphere far removed from the crowds of opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family- Situated in the Campo del Ghetto tourists that flock to the area each year. Opened with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its Nuovo, the venue is set between two in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical true Venetian style of cooking which he does with €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. panache. €€€. www.ristorantemarioallafava.it. Calle Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto LE MASCHERE Galiazzo, 5265 - Calle dei Stagneri, 5242. T: 041 line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5 rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Nuovo). T: 340 1046858. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes this restaurant one

5285147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 of the most original venues in Venice. See page 37 (Giardini stop). Map H5

40 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 41

IN SEARCH OF AN AUTHENTIC RESTAURANT BY STEFANO TRAINE

TRULY VENETIAN TAVERNA AL REMER ► Looking for a really Burano typical restaurant Enjoy an authentic dining experience Al Gatto Nero amidst the hundreds at this typically Venetian eatery, boasting Trattoria da Romano of venues you’ll come a spectacular view over the Grand Canal. across while strolling Santa Croce Cannaregio through Venice? Isola di San Michele Here are a few tips Taverna al Remer www.alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701 to help you find the (Campiello Remer). T: 041 5228789. right place wherever you happen to be, in the ‘calli’, at the Lido or while enjoying TRATTORIA San Polo Castello an excursion to the DA ROMANO Al Giardinetto da Severino islands… BURANO VENEZIA San Marco Dorsoduro Trattoria Do Forni Antico Pignolo TRATTORIA DA ROMANO (BURANO) Renowns for its simple yet delectable risottos ans its typical seafood dishes, this trattoria Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore has been run by the Barbaro family for generations. Standouts includes mixed grill Giudecca cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Burano - Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.

TRATTORIA DO FORNI Thanks to the quality of his dishes and a genuine sense of Venetian hospitality, its owner, Eligio Paties has turned his restaurant into a sought-after culinary destination.

www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.

AL GIARDINETTO DA SEVERINO AL GATTO NERO (BURANO) Its menu offers the best of Freshly caught fish and pasta traditional Venetian cuisine: are served at this family-run ANTICO PIGNOLO RISTORANTE baccalà, Venetian-style liver, trattoria in the heart of Burano. Boasting an elegant ambience and ‘granceola’, polenta with shrimp, The ‘Gatto Nero’ has been the Al Giardinetto impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian da Severino a mixed fish fry with artichokes kingdom of Ruggero Bovo since tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties. and seafood risotto. 1965. Must-try dishes include the Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish chef’s famous ‘risotto di Go’ or www.xxxxxx.org specialties and a well-stocked wine cellar. his ‘spaghetti alla granceola’. Viale xxxxx, 6 www.algiardinetto.it www.gattonero.com T: 02 xxxxx www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Burano - Via Giudecca, 88. T: 041 730120. More info: www.wheremilan.com (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123.

More info: www.where-venice.com

42 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 43 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or and is surrounded by several magnificent stately ATTRACTIONS & ask your concierge. buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes MONUMENTS it one of the most widely-photographed places Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto in the world. The best thing to do here is to look Basilica del Redentore This is one of the largest churches in Venice, around and exult, but don’t forget that the square Based on a project by the famous architect and, according to popular belief, is named after has a number of specific landmark sites, whose Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San on the island of Giudecca. It contains works had miraculous powers. It contains a significant Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one The complex also houses the smaller church the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best- third of the population. To commemorate the end of San Marziale, dating back to before the year known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Map F4 church on the third Sunday of July. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6 stop). Map E2 crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one Basilica di San Marco Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from This is the most important Catholic church in the A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and which its name derives are not those of lovers, but city, and one of the most important monuments in adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they Italy. The original church dates back to before the to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, plague-stricken population of Venice during the a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 15th century. The interiors are filled with 7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, numerous treasures, including an impressive 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian number of works by Tintoretto as well those by lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4 Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four You might have to queue for a time to get inside, Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4 bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it Ghetto di Venezia admission is free, you will have to pay to see (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular Although documentation chronicles the presence several specific sights. In order not to miss your when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a of a Jewish community in Venice from before visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening gondola. Originally built during medieval times as the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, hours, as they are often subject to change. Open a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point due to political unrest in Europe and a significant Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to stating that the Jewish population should move Marco stop). Map F4 everyone; between upward and downward slopes, to a specific part of the city, where they could it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known move to this, then, remote northwestern corner to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th- VENICE BIENNALE of the house) because it dominates the city, century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect observing everything that lies below it. Resting for "foundry," a word that would soon be used lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, throughout Europe and the world to depict an For more than a century, the Venice The daily life of a Venetian nobleman it has a particularly recognizable shape and a area where isolated minority groups lived. The Biennale has been one of the most rich history. The original medieval bell tower was Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, prestigious cultural institutions in the modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, world. Renowned for its avant-garde At Palazzo Mocenigo, a museum investigates the habits of a Patrician family, exploring its rooms, up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today approach to research and the promotion over the city. Although admission is not free, it is it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing of new artistic trends, it organizes costumes and the indispensable accessory: perfume. By Elena Peverata often included in joint tickets. Opening times are community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, important international exhibitions subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2 related to art and architecture (it is held ormerly the home of the Mocenigos – a and furniture recovered from the warehouses featuring displays of artifacts and 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4 bi-annually in odd-numbered years) at noble Venetian family, gifting the city of the Civic Museums of Venice, it was opened ancient documents, multimedia Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Canal Grande (Grand Canal) (Casinò di Venezia) its Giardini and Arsenale sites, and is with seven Doges – this beautiful palazzo to the public as a house museum in 1995. instruments and sensory F Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building considered the world’s number one in the sestiere of Santa Croce, now hosts the Due to its collections of fabrics and olden-day experiences. The ground floor street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the houses the oldest casino in the world. An age- platform for its International Exhibition ‘Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume’, costumes originating from civic collections, also hosts three new spaces: a main waterway of Venice and much more. old destination, for aristocratic travelers from of Cinematographic Art (annual), its an interesting, charming museum featuring an and a specialized library, hosting an important Perfume Workshop, a Multi- Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series both East and West, Venice was the first city in Music and Theatre Festival and its more itinerary dedicated to several aspects of the lives collection of more than 13,000 figurines dated media Workshop and the ‘White of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public the world to open a gaming house way back in recent Dance Festival. In addition to its buildings, it offers a journey back into history, 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues and activities of the Venetian nobility between between the 18th and 20th centuries, it became Room’ for temporary exhibitions. traditional appointments, it has added evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient to play host to several of the world’s most new, permanent activities over time. the 17th and 18th centuries, including precious the Museum and Study Centre of the History Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has classical games. The casino is open to everyone Costs, venues and opening hours vary garments, olden-day accessories and a new, of Fabrics and Costumes. In 2013, thanks witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. according to the activity underway. fascinating section dedicated to perfume. to a significant contribution from perfume >> Palazzo Mocenigo religious processions, capital executions, www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola Voucher Venezia Unica holders are manufacturer Mavive, whose portfolio includes Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise stop). Map E3 eligible for discounts. Main sites: Ca’ Inhabited by the Mocenigo family until the The Merchant of Venice brand, the museum Open from 1 April to 1 on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this Giustinian, San Marco 1364/a; Arsenale, Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) early 20th century, the palace was bequeathed was once again revamped and enriched with a November: 10am-5pm; from experience, but because it offers several of the Calle della Tana, 2169/S; Giardini della Known throughout the world, this square is the to the City of Venice in 1945 by Alvise Nicolò, the new section dedicated to perfume; an ode to 2 November to 31 March: best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. Biennale, Castello (between Riva degli is is almost impossible to list all of them, but last descendant of the family, on condition that Venice's 16th-century status as Europe's capital 10am-4pm. Closed on Monday. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit Schiavoni and Sant’Elena). for more information you can visit the www. it must be used as an art gallery. Restructured of perfume. Today, this section offers visitors Ticket €8. integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 www.labiennale.org canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and and renovated with a large number of artworks an enlightening journey through six rooms www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it metres in length, it faces directly onto the water

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(access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari 1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo San Giorgio Maggiore largest church in the city. This medieval church Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second The “Scuole Grandi” Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to Map E4 floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Scuola Grande dei Carmini monuments of numerous famous people, including floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous and a number of priceless oil paintings have been N (San Tomà stop). Map D4 Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This preserved intact. The drama builds when entering Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve. small island, that is a part of the panorama that can Santi Giovanni e Paolo the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from One of the city’s most important examples exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open Map D5 di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto is considered the Pantheon of Venice because daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5 all the Venetian doges, starting from Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Gallery and Historic Garden Santa Maria della Salute (Church the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. Rezzonico stop). Map C5 The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel Teatro La Fenice Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its this site might be marked in Venetian dialect glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics at a commercially and aesthetically important point, former splendour (the last time was between 1996 as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th herons and flamingoes from March to September, by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Scala Contarini del Bovolo century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in On 21 November each year, a popular religious building. However, what makes it such a popular strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am- celebration, marking the official end of the Black attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice. 11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must Scuola di San Rocco Death, is held here. The church is also famous for in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm- stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. 5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined stop). Map E4 www.museoandrich.it. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347 Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the The islands 2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map Among Venice’s countless art treasures, paintings by the best artists of the era. After stop). Map E5 top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am- Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a The Foundation, which has 4 spaces in Venice, Grandi’ might be mentioned as Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of serves as a launch pad for projects devoted to unmissable attractions. It goes without edict (1807) and within the space of a short Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, photography, design, graphics and applied arts. saying that these are not schools in the time their assets ended up at antique markets small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano In addition to awarding prizes and scholarships, is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown it also offers under 35 artists a chance annually, accepted sense of the word, but one and collections throughout the world. glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers to set up ateliers, free-of-charge, at its Palazzo of the innumerable distinctive features Several of the best preserved Schools at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a Carminati (San Stae) and SS. Cosma e Damiano of this unique city. During the ancient were reconstituted and transformed into thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi- (Giudecca) spaces. Palazzetto Tito, the Republic of Venice, from the 13th century museums that can now be visited by the rural island with only 17 permanent residents and headquarters of the Foundation’s archives and onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, public. two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past offices, promotes the catalogues of collective and glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed personal exhibitions, while the space dedicated used to describe a brotherhood, or rather These include the Great Schools sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses to exhibitions is located in St. Mark’s Square, an association of lay members who met of San Giovanni Evangelista (www. reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its under the arcades of Procuratie Nuove. www. to provide assistance to poor people, scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, bevilacqualamasa.it. Palazzetto Tito, Dorsoduro, widows, orphans, old and sick people. Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco. which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy 2826. T: 041 5207797. La Galleria di Piazza San tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Marco, San Marco, 71/c (Procuratie Nuove). T: 041 The ‘Scuole’ were divided into it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of 5237819. Palazzo Carminati, Santa Croce 1882/a. Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi) scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including not finding a seat on the boat. Complesso di SS. Cosma e Damiano, Giudecca which gathered for religious purposes the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www. 620.Map F5 MUSEUMS & in the name of a patron saint, Schools scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore of Arts and Crafts and Schools of San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital), EXHIBITION SITES Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic, Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San of Modern Art they represented a real kind of welfare Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty Hosts important 19th and 20th century Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international system, initially destined for members of Science, Literature and Arts (www. collections of paintings and sculptures, including centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as housed in the monumental complex of the former but later extended to the entire ateneoveneto.org), were converted into The phenomenon of 'acqua alta' noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, population. public exhibition spaces and institutions. a place of inestimable architectural and artistic Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an their disposal, a part of which they invested Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this to embellish their own headquarters with Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio paintings by well-known artists including are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter. line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3 Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or are well worth a visit. For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Century Venetian Art Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century the most important Schools built palaces Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content. The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and for their residents designed by famous suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree. leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information architects, and adorned them with the magnificent Accademia Galleries. sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10.

46 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 47 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice Museo Archeologico Nazionale price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www. Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection Map D2 of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include Museo Querini Stampalia Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an priceless finds of late antiquity. Open daily. www. opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it. Entrance nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52 several unusual architectural elements designed (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 Botta. Works displayed include paintings by (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Map F5 Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Museo Correr Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in complex also has a library and a space dedicated St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms PALAZZO CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic This late Gothic building, formerly home to the Contarini family, eight of whose members (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San The Basilica of San Marco, with its bell tower PLEASE NOTE collections describing the changing cityscape were Doges of the Republic of Venice, is renowned for its famous cylindrical tower and Zaccaria stop). Map F4 and square overlooking the water, is one of The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting spiral staircase, named ‘del Bovolo’, the Venetian word for snail: one of the city’s foremost Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable church that welcomes worshippers and important masterpieces of Venetian art from its architectural gems. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com Museo Storico Navale della Marina origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. Militare (and photographed) landmarks. In addition tourists alike. It is open daily for prayer and correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San The Historic Naval Museum, the most important to being the city’s most important to allow visitors to admire its extraordinary Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy objet d’art made from Murano glass, including and artistic value. Open daily from 9am-5pm. church, the Basilica is a monument to the artistic heritage. However, at certain times stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In important pieces produced between the 15th and www.istitutoellenico.org/museo. Castello 3412 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 addition to the main building, whose exhibition history of Venice, a grand treasure chest or on certain days, it is entirely given over 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. (Campo dei Greci). T: 041 5226581. Vaporetto spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the of Venetian art and lavish spoils garnered to religious ceremonies and visits are Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum lines 1, 2, 4.1, 5.1, 14, 15, 19, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in from the eastern Mediterranean. Its dazzling suspended. For more information visit The museum, located on the top floor of the €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Map G4 the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto polychrome façade with its marbles and www.basilicasanmarco.it to check that Museo di Storia Naturale of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map mosaics, spires and domes, and Venice’s it is open for visits. On entering, visitors Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro Museo di San Marco on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary has housed an impressive collection of historical famous winged lion, the symbol of the city are asked to respect the rules: appropriate family. Here, you will find one of the most important The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, layout is divided into three sections each of which vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory. clothing must be worn, as this is a place of collections in the world of Japanese art from the will take you from the historic area above the is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its headquarters. Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including The interior, featuring an abundance of worship. Taking photographs is forbidden atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former collection includes more than two million pieces: > Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148, swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is and visitors are asked to lower their voices Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three zoological and paleontological collections, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum at all times. Please note that you will Other highlights include extensive sections St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet Navi, located just steps from the Naval Museum, and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a probably have to wait for about 45 minutes dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples is open for public viewing, not-to-be-missed highlight. in order to gain access to the Basilica. on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 ticket (integrated with the International Gallery bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa 4.30pm); from 1 Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. Stae stop). Map E3 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo the museum takes visitors through various areas Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3 Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing stop). Map G6 della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 Museo Ebraico di Venezia Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a attire that is respectful of the religious nature of (Accademia stop). Map D5 JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed a highly unusual urban architectural museum VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Galleria Giorgio Franchetti Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price complex that includes the museum itself, the Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia alla Ca' d'Oro rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. were instituted as an educational adjunct to The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. It contains a small but precious collection of the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most dwelling, hosts the art collections that were from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria artifacts related to the long history of the Jews important collection of Venetian and Veneto donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and artworks dated between the 14th and 18th These include period furnishing, tapestries, ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum stop). Map F4 English), you can visit three of the area’s five centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Museo delle Icone historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, collection features a mixture of Renaissance Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line The museum is owned by the Hellenic Institute Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Studies of Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) several important landscape artists including and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces 12 (Burano stop). Off Map Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. Venice and is located on the first floor of the in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate complex hosting these works occupies the An interesting collection of ceramic relics from Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Confraternita dei Greci (Scoletta di San Nicolò, the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on designed by Baldassare Longhena in the 17th bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at century). It houses approximately 80 Byzantine del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am- Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. the museum are arranged in chronological order: and post-Byzantine icons dating from the 14th 7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm The masterpieces housed at the GLASS MUSEUM through 18th centuries, as well as illuminated (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary in addition to the archaeological section featuring in Murano include this ‘Piastrina Millefiori Venezia’ Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., codes, sacred garments embroidered in gold and Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org. by Giovanni Battista Franchini (1846). you can also find an extensive range of historical small artisanal artifacts of considerable historic 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1

48 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 49 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side and Tiepolo. Today, the School is a prestigious and is one of Venice’s most famous architectural Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on home showcases her collection of Cubist, space used to host congresses, art exhibitions and attractions. Like a triumphal arch, it dominates the exhibition being shown. www.fortuny.visitmuve. Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist concerts. Tours are suspended during congresses. the entrance from St. Mark’s Square to the city’s it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Visit the website to check the days on which shop-filled Mercerie (from the word ‘Merchandise’). 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and the museum is open to the public. Open daily, If you stand close up, you can observe the complex Samuele stop). Map E4 Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important 9.30am-5pm. Full price ticket €5; Scuola Grande mechanisms of this large astrological clock, a collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. + church €8. www.scuolasangiovanni.it. San Polo, masterpiece of technology and engineering. After Palazzo Grassi Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays. 2454 (Campiello della Scuola). T: 041 718234. climbing the spiral staircase, you emerge onto its Museo Punta della Dogana Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4 terraces from which you can enjoy a magnificent Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal view over St. Mark’s Square. Admission subject by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 Scuola Grande di San Rocco to reservation, with an expert tour guide. (T: 848 century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this 082000 Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm; Sat 9am-2pm; of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art Salute stop). Map E5 stunning building, to which hardly any modifications www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it). Full price ticket museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. have been made, hosts more than 60 €12. www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it. Piazza San They host important collective or monographic Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca masterpieces by artists of Marco. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Marciana the likes of Giorgione, Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Collection, one of the world’s largest collections The old St. Mark’s Library, or Sansoviniana Library, Tiepolo and Titian, Zaccaria stop). Map F4 of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an is a museum space that is used to host exhibitions still presented in adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action- and events. Designed mainly by Jacopo Sansovino, their original layout. packed calendar of conferences, concerts and standouts include a Stairway of Honour, a Vestibule Its establishment screenings of an international scope. Open daily and a Reading Room embellished with 16th century represented an 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays. This season both decorations. Together with Palazzo della Zecca, important moment museums are currently closed to the public and will where the reading rooms and offices are located, it in the history of 16th reopen on 9 April. Full price ticket €15; Combo ticket: is still a part of the monumental headquarters of the century Venetian art, €20. www.palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057 Palazzo Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which in addition to above all thanks to Grassi San Marco 30124 (Campo San Samuele). rare books also hosts priceless, antique manuscripts. Tintoretto’s famous Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo Open daily. www.marciana.venezia.sbn.it. Entrance cycle of Old and New stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana and Ticket Office: Museo Correr, San Marco 52 Testament scenes. Open Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2407211. Vaporetto line daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA 1 (Vallaresso stop, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti Closed on 25 December and Palazzo Grimani This Venetian museum hub hosts the most important collection of Veneto artworks stop), 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Originally the home of the Grimani family, it was dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Don’t miss the outstanding works by Scuola Grande + church €8. enlarged in the 16th century and decorated with Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Tiepolo and Canaletto. www.gallerieaccademia.it www.scuolagrandesanrocco. frescoes, marbles and stuccoes that made it one Evangelista it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San of Venice’s most unique buildings in terms of Founded in 1261, the School is housed in a Rocco stop). T: 041 718234. its architecture, history and cultural and artistic complex featuring several different architectural Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San offerings. Opened to the public in 2008 following styles, including masterpieces of Renaissance art Tomà stop). Map D4 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs 8.45am- Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www. its in-depth restoration, it is now a museum like its superb double staircase (1498) right up 1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm), palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 hosting a few select works, typifying the style to the final major architectural changes made in Torre dell’Orologio Cold-painted terracotta by Arturo Martini, named ‘Prostitute’ Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm. Full ticket 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), of 16th century collections. Open Mon 8.15am- the 18th century to enhance the Sala Capitolare. (Clock Tower) (1913), donated by Maria Barbantini to the CA’ PESARO, price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5 2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Closed 1 January, It contains numerous artistic masterpieces, The Clock or Mori Tower International Gallery of Modern Art. capesaro.visitmuve.it (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €4. Ticket including works by Tintoretto, Palma the Younger dates back to the 15th century Palazzo Ducale 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5 pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic www.palazzogrimani.org. Castello, 4858. Info Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, and bookings T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1, 2 The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different (Rialto stop), line 14, 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work and intricate architectural and ornamental details, Map F4 of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence MUSEUM PASS initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational and government centre of the Doges, it not only Palazzo Mocenigo - Centro Studi di activities, conventions, study grants and awards). houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Just one ticket for 11 museums > Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the The Museum Pass is a cumulative ticket showcase works by the latter, also host temporary of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. that offers access to all the permanent exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats museums. It is valid for 6 months and Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. which leads to the spacious council rooms and between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits allows one entry per museum site. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s on display include opulent garments and olden-day Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino Apartment. Other highlights on this route include accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. valid for: Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio the prisons and loggias overlooking the square The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Sale Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. integrated with a number of works originating Monumentali della Biblioteca Nazionale 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Marciana; Ca’ Rezzonico-Museo del (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San PASSION TIP Don’t miss the itineraries dedicated Settecento Veneziano; Museo di Palazzo stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria to Perfume and the “Perfume Composition Courses” Mocenigo e Centro Studi di Storia del Map E6 stop). Map F4 (2 hours, 80/100 euro per participant, including Kit Tessuto e del Costume; Casa di Carlo and perfume). Reservation is necessary: mocenigo. Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Palazzo Fortuny Goldoni and Biblioteca di Studi Teatrali; visitmuve.it/workshop. Closed on Mon. Full price Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his Moderna + Museo d’Arte Orientale; 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century own personal atelier for photography, set-design, Museo del Vetro; Museo del Merletto; Map E3 Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of textile creations and paintings. The museum’s Museo di Storia Naturale. Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces Peggy Guggenheim Collection Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from and materials commissioned for important projects: Palazzo Venier dei Leoni Call center 848 082000. Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, paintings, lighting systems, photography and The museum, boasting one of the most important From abroad +39 041 42730892. Museo Correr Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), ornate garments. The building is now used to host collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. art exhibitions. The museum is open only during the personal collection of American heiress

50 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 51 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of CONCERT VENUES entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas LA FENICE hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera OPERA HOUSE & THEATRES (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2 Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice VENETO HOT VENUES www.teatrolafenice.it and the fourth most ancient in the city. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named Arena di Verona after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s dramatist at that time. It was renovated several Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it has Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now hosted a famous opera festival featuring must-see managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www. performances and internationally renowned stars. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 Currently celebrating its 94th edition, the rich events 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4 calendar of this year’s Opera Festival featured 46 performances with 5 operas staged on a rotational Teatro La Fenice basis: ‘Carmen’ by Georges Bizet, ‘Aida’, ‘La Traviata’, UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, ‘Il Trovatore’ by Giuseppe Verdi and ‘Turandot’ by La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most Giacomo Puccini. (www.mostracallas.it). www.arena. legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former Map splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and Teatro Olimpico Vicenza the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the century it became a focal point for contemporary world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of productions, featuring world premieres by Igor classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting ■ OPERA by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage 20, 24, 28 January and 1, 5 February theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and TANNHÄUSER to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, Music by: Richard Wagner audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map Omer Meir Wellber, conductor German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 Calixto Bieito, director (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 WELLNESS Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Boscolo Venezia Ingo Krüger, costumes Teatro Malibran Elegance, style and design blend to create a ■ CONCERTS Opened in 1678, during the 17th and 18th centuries, regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one- 7, 8 January (Teatro Malibran) the theatre, at that time known as ‘Teatro San of-a-kind pampering experience offering a rich Giovanni Crisostomo’, was mainly famed for its program of wellness and body treatments. c/o RISTO JOOST CONCERT operas. Dripping with elegant ornamentation, Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Music by: : Ildebrando Pizzetti, Jean Masked dream it was known as the biggest, most beautiful and Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 Sibelius richest theatre in the city. Acquired by the City of 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise Risto Joost, conductor La Fenice Enchanting arias and classic ballet performances featuring some of Italy’s best known orchestral ensembles, Venice in 1992, after being restored and enlarged, stop). Map E2 Orchestra it temporarily hosted the orchestra of La Fenice Centro Benessere Casanova Alberto Ferro, piano opera singers and ballerinas wearing Venetian masks and 18th century costumes: experience an evening of Theatre which was destroyed by arson in 1996 An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens 27, 29 January (see listing). In 2001, it became Venice’s second where Casanova was known to court his lovers. MAREK JANOWSKI CONCERT magic in Venice with a unique mixture of music, history and art. By Elena Peverata largest alternative for opera. www.teatrolafenice. The Center offers a wide range of treatments and Music by: Johannes Brahms, Franz it. Cannaregio, 5873. T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 lipping into a dream-like Venetian by other great composers of the period the fall of the Republic (see page 49), whose Sala massages with a particular emphasis on facials (Rialto stop). Map F3 Schubert, Robert Schumann atmosphere and reliving an evening as interpreted by an ensemble of musicians del Capitolo boasts nine incomparable ceiling and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Marek Janowski, conductor La Fenice www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. an 18th century lady or gentleman is not wearing exquisite 18th century costumes and frescoes painted by Giambattista Tiepolo, and Orchestra S GAMBLING & CASINOS Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F4 only possible, but an absolute must. A unique artisanal masks, accompanied by the dreamy other masterpieces. Casinò di Venezia opportunity to experience the fascinating notes of a harp, and with dance sequences Perfect acoustics and the intimate beauty of this San Clemente Palace Kempinski Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a atmosphere of that masked world that performed by a classical ballerina. building act as the ideal setting for an evening house and its charm has remained unaltered over service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins epitomized the Venice of Casanova, Canaletto In the other program, you will experience a of music. The experience becomes even the years. A perfect example of renaissance style authentic journey based on the restorative powers with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o and Goldoni, while losing yourself in haunting mixture of opera and ballet, performed by more special if you indulge in the option of a stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private music at one of the city’s most unusual costumed musicians and singers hailing from pre-performance dinner at a typical Venetian The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott locations. several of Italy’s best orchestras. You will listen restaurant located in front of the concert hall. of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and every 30 minutes. Off Map Musica in Maschera is a fascinating project, a to hauntingly beautiful arias, while watching Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs concert/performance combining music with a dancer subtly interpreting the musical >> Vivaldi Four Seasons and Ballet: and American gaming tables are given over to the and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Eforea Spa the mysterious, seductive world of Venetian intermezzi, infusing this performance with an 2, 6 January best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna, provide a more informal way of having fun. For a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make masks. The program features two musical unforgettable, dream-like quality. Opera Balletto: 3, 7, 14, 21, 28 January Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved options designed to suit individual tastes: one The performances are held at the monumental Scuola Grande dei Carmini, it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. spotlights Baroque music with a rendition of Scuola Grande dei Carmini, the last of the Dorsoduro 2616-2617 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). JW Marriott Venice molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414. Antonio Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and pieces eight Great Schools that existed in Venice until T: 041 5287667. www.musicainmaschera.it • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop). Map G6

52 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 53 OUT OF TOWN CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page an aerial view of Verona, a World Heritage site. On the right, a corner of Padua. Below, Villa Pisani in Stra, one of the most famous Veneto Villas and, at the bottom, Treviso.

you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari also known as la Malcontenta. Its linear, classical façade conceals frescoed rooms and luxurious interiors that are further enhanced in the evening by flickering candlelight. In Mira, make sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini dei Leoni and in its vicinity Villa Widman, a spectacular 18th century complex. The last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa Padua Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple and friend of Galileo Galilei. For more info visit www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com

Veneto, all the allure TREVISO Lying at the heart of the city is piazza dei Signori, home to Palazzo dei Trecento and the of the region Verona and the Adige river elegant Loggia Dei Cavalieri. Its two rivers, the Sile and the Cagnan, meander gently amidst its streets adding a unique touch of charm to its historic centre encircled by the old town Several charming destinations, historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some approximately thirty villas, and the best way walls. Its colonnaded houses with their frescoed a perfect way to spend of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the to admire them is from the water, embarking facades overlooking the Buranelli canal and perfect place to fall in love. For more info visit either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day the Isola della Pescheria tell of Treviso’s close a relaxing day while having fun. www.tourism.verona.it cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a relationship with its waters. By Simona P.K. Daviddii DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft The artistic treasures housed in the Duomo and used by Venetian noblemen. Among the gems in the museum hub of Santa Caterina dei Servi VILLAS OF BRENTA that embellish the shores, the monumental di Mari are particularly noteworthy and include The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must see. Built in 1721 works by Bellini, Lotto, Titian and Bassano. Art Villa Pisani, Stra AMIDST ROMANTICISM AND BIEN VIVRE the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most and set within one of the most beautiful parks lovers should make a point of visiting Casa dei Located just over a hundred kilometers from of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to in Italy, its interiors are enhanced by numerous Carraresi which hosts prestigious international Venice, Verona captivates visitors with a stunning Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas, set works of art, including the magnificent ceiling exhibitions. A city with a beguiling charm all of medieval historical center, encircling the Roman in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were built frescoed by Tiepolo. its own brimming over with picturesque osterie Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events on the banks of different waterways. There are Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Mira, and small cafes overlooking its squares. in summer. Although the Arena attracts music DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 30 km lovers/aficionados from all over the world, the LUGANO Marostica ? haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular. Palmanova PADUA MENDRISIO Treviso ? Above all, Verona is known as the city of love. It is BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona Vicenza ? Padua lays claim to three thousand years the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and ? ? ? Noventa of history, all of which are visible in its urban NOVARA Padua di Piave TRIESTE Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an MILANO Abano ? ? fabric, where spacious squares (the scenic intense cultural life. Montegrotto? Venice Prato della Valle is the single largest square in Mantua ? You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house (in ?Chioggia Italy) alternate with paved alleyways, medieval via Cappello 23) with its beautiful Gothic portal ALESSANDRIA houses and small aristocratic palaces. Not only and famous balcony, while strolling through TORINO FERRARA the birthplace of Saint Anthony, to whom a large the streets of the ancient city, amidst squares, PIACENZA MAR basilica is dedicated, but also the town housing porticoes, aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes in the Scrovegni GENOVA ADRIATICO churches and courts. Romeo’s house, with its BOLOGNA Chapel. No trip to Padua is complete without imposing crenellated walls, is located just a little taking a break at one of its historic cafés (the RIMINI further on. MAR LIGURE Pedrocchi is the most famous), either drinking a The Adige river is located just steps away, and PISA cup of coffee, or sipping a 'Spritz' cocktail. FIRENZE Treviso, piazza dei Signori a sunset stroll along its shores and over its VENTIMIGLIA DISTANCE FROM VENICE 40 km

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Euganei Hills Garden of Villa Barbarigo Portal of Diana, Villa Barbarigo

visitors could access the Portal of Diana – so- garden is owed to the loving care bestowed called because of the goddess of hunting who upon it by the ‘Barbarigo Noblemen’ during WATER FIRST AND FOREMOST ! A unique blend of nature, art and wellness stands atop it – via water from Venice. Today, the 17th and 18th centuries, the noble Michiel Battaglia can still be reached by boat. In those family and the Counts of Martinengo during For the first time, in the exclusive “Venetian Set against the green hills of the Euganei Hills and located approximately WELCOME TO THE COLLI EUGANEI days, however, initiates had to cross the Valley the 19th century and the Counts of Donà delle Thermal Water” line, thermal spring 60 kilometres from Venice, the magnificent Villa Barbarigo, one of the most Known as the ‘Pearl of the Euganei of Sant’Eusebio, now known as Valsanzibio Rose during the early 20th century. The villa water is combined with two anti-ageing beautiful Veneto Villas in the area, is worth taking a trip out of town. Hills’, Villa Barbarigo with its (from which the garden takes its name) to reach and it gardens have been the property of the properties: hyaluronic acid which helps monumental garden is located in an the landing stage in front of the garden. Counts of Pizzoni-Ardemani since 1929. Owners to restore skin elasticity, and natural anti- area steeped in nature and history, of the estate for three generations, the Pizzoni- oxidants, including Goji and Cassia Alato At Villa Barbarigo, in the province of Padua, It was the latter – a cardinal, the Archbishop the ideal destination for art lovers AN AUTHENTIC HISTORICAL GARDEN Ardemani family not only repaired the damage Leaf extracts, which protect the skin from you can admire the authentic Italian Baroque of Padua and a future saint – who inspired the and nature enthusiasts. Thanks to Built between 1665 and 1696, the garden of caused by military occupation and the forced the effects of ageing. This line is a result of Garden of Valsanzibio. Over the years, it has religious symbolism of the project designed by the thermal waters of Abano and Valsanzibio is an extraordinary example of abandonment of the villa during World War II, the combination of thermal water drawn gained international recognition. In addition leading Vatican architect and fountain expert Montegrotto Terme, the largest spa a symbolic garden. This magnificent garden but also recently renovated all of the garden’s from four springs in the Veneto region, being published in leading art and botany Luigi Bernini, brother of the famous sculptor hub in Europe, the area is a sought-after boasts a number of fully operative water 33 water features, damaged by eighty years of mixed to obtain different concentrations books, it was named the most beautiful Gianlorenzo. Cardinal Barbarigo wanted the destination for those in search features and is currently one of the largest, gradual ground-water depletion. based on their specific salinity: water from garden in Italy in 2003 and one of the most garden of Valsanzibio to symbolize the path of of relaxing, wellness retreats best-kept Baroque gardens in the world. Credit www.valsanzibiogiardino.it the Primavera Source of the Palatini-based beautiful in Europe in 2007. In 2004, it was perfection that leads man from Error to Truth, for the preservation of this beautifully tended [email protected] ‘Terme di Salzano’ (in which bicarbonate, used as the setting for the Merchant of from Ignorance to Revelation. The Pavilion or calcium and magnesium are dissolved); the Venice, a romantic film starring Al Pacino. In Portal of Diana was not the only main access waters of ‘Terme di Bibione’ (originating 2013, ‘QVC’, an American television network, route via water to the Barbarigo estate in the from deep underground springs); chose it for a program that was aired live and, 12th and 13th centuries. This superb, imposing the low mineral content water in 2016 ‘Arte’, the European Culture Channel, gateway represented the beginning of the from the ‘Terme dei Colli Asolani’ dedicated an installment of the program Road to Salvation, ending in the open space in Crespano (home to the spring ‘Jardins d’ici et d’ailleurs’ to it, selecting that houses the Fountain of the Mushroom, also named for Empress Sissi ); and it from among twenty of Europe’s most known as the Fountain of Ecstasy. The mud used by the spas of the hotels in Abano and Montegrotto finally, the water of the ‘Terme Euganee’ (which flows through important historical gardens. Each year, the Terme, affiliated with the AQUAEHOTELS Consortium, is identified by the municipalities of Abano, garden is a highly sought-after destination A SYMBOLIC ITINERARY the ‘Fango Eutrofico Eudermico Euganeo ( “F.E.E.E.”) trademark and Montegrotto, Battaglia, Teolo and for international tourists. This magnificent Baroque garden has 70 is quality certified. The production process – which guarantees specific Galzignano at a temperature of statues, mostly by Marengo, sculpted in Istrian characteristic and scientifically proven therapeutic properties – makes it 87°C). ‘Venetian Thermal Water’ THE MAJESTIC PARK, stone. There are also other minor sculptures unique worldwide. The salt-bromine-iodine hyper-thermal water which can be purchased online at THE STAR OF THE SHOW that blend harmoniously with the architecture, gushes from the depths of the sub-soil in Abano and Montegrotto Terme www.aquaehotels.it or from the The villa, which was used as a residence prior streams, waterfalls, fountains, water features at a temperature of 80°C, is contained in special vats known as ‘fangaie’. best hotels and sales points in the to the design of its monumental garden, and fish pools that are scattered amidst When this water comes into contact with the natural clay enriched with area. Ask your concierge. complements the majestic park. In fact, it is numerous trees and shrubs, spread over more micro-algae spores, a process involving the production of powerful the only Veneto Villa whose park is the main than 10 hectares of land. Additionally, within the biological active principles comes into play, serving not only as a cure for feature. The garden was built during the complex itself, important highlights along the muscle and back problems but also as a therapy to combat skin-ageing. second half of the 17th century by Venetian Road to Salvation include the Bosso maze, the To try a F.E.E.E. mud treat visit the www.aquaehotels.it website. BENESSERE STILE DI VITA nobleman Zuane Francesco Barbarigo, with symbolic Cave of the Hermit, Rabbit Island and www.aquaehotels.it the help of his sons, Antonio and Gregorio. the Monument to Time. Until the 19th century,

56 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 57 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM Emergency

POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at all pharmacies. Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains “SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Isola di San Michele Santa Croce Cannaregio Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks Venice, the Floating City the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. San Polo Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, Castello take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Dorsoduro San Marco By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italians (at least many of them), may already ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, Venice also has its own network of public... Italo, Thello, Eurocity: Giudecca know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and and private transportation: its vaporetti, real Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just salizade are Venetian words used to identify waterbuses, are the most popular craft used Tourist Information furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is by locals, which is why they are often very APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città pavements. In Venice, canals are the only the local word indicating the six districts the crowded during peak hours. These engine- Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. most densely populated district of Venice. Its This is the city’s main sestiere because it available communication route, bearing in city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, powered water taxis are able to whiz across T: 041 5298711. name probably derives from the expanse of houses the palaces that once constituted the mind that part of the city extends over a Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those reeds found in the swamps on which it was government of Venice until its fall. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website handful of beautiful islands that are scattered Castello. This division dates back to the 12th who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic built. of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it) San Polo, which takes its name from the across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon century and also includes areas such as La experience, the famous, distinctive gondola Castello takes its name from the castle of church of San Polo, is the geographic centre city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore is an absolute must. This elegant, black, Tourist Card which traces still remain today. It extends of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass around the Arsenale and includes the the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). the water, while its gondolier sings an entire that offers unlimited use of public transportation, Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Schiavoni. all. At times Venice may find itself... under Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. admission to tourist attractions and cultural Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient events in the city, plus a number of other useful water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the and often reach four figures, for example, one It goes without saying that the waters of the Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand church of the same name which unfortunately services. You can purchase your card online and result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello canals are not suitable for swimming, and their dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It customize your Venezia Unica City Pass Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along includes the Stazione Marittima and the cause the water level to rise by as much as is 7,000. banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be to suit your individual travel needs which the long promenade known as the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised You need to learn them if you want so focused on your selfie stick that you walk (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches. and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon plank walkways, or don rain boots (many to find your way through the spectacular, into a canal because you might be in for some Open daily 9am-4pm. traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses). © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA T: 392 6786628. shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable maze-like historic centre. rather unpleasant surprises!

58 WHERE VENICE I JANUARY 2017 www.wheretraveler.com 59 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

GETTING AROUND VENICE THE LIDO OF VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-min- Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much ute walk from North to South) whose main points of more. An island, a town with its own history and interest are situated just a short distance from each a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema.

Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of stages are located at central points around the sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San and the open sea, only connected to the city and Marco…) . dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice Tickets - Although paper tickets are available is that the Lido has real streets, which means you at main embarkation points and from authorized get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV. tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis foot or by bicycle. tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and can be costly, they are the fastest and most pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. concierge. WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild Canal to the other costs 50 cents (via ferry).You can gondolavenezia.it sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km www.veneziaunica.it. IMOB smart cards are Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides hectares of land, including two kilometers of ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options allow you to save on official rates, they are only cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island recommended for long-term visits. Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. For of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services a natural beach experience, the Lido also offers approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the operate in Venice. several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San The Excelsior Venice Hotel travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs best-known tourist attractios for those wishing to Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to experience a view of Venice that is anything but beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”. pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by are available for hire from 16 landing stages, Venice by public transport. Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the Gondolas, a tourist’s dream! course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere else Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custom- where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced made according to his weight and height. in America, but not in Italy at that time. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most WHERE TO GO - Moving to the other end of remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, town that offers visitors a mini experience of Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient SVIDA_WHEREITALIA the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). more northerly direction, is the settlement of San An interesting feature that you are bound to Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in PHOTOS © notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its the 11th century. Join us for an unforgettable experience in Venice most recent version was created by the Style WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio remains of ancient fortresses which are now Ceccato. used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of ... Ask only for the Best Service! as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but for clams. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? lnternational Limousine Service miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail is the exclusive ticket resale point for the on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any withstood the test of time? supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale, Gran Teatro La Fenice and the Arena of Verona The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few. www.emilioceccato.com fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to www.internationallimousine.it Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds Piazzale Roma 496 I-L T: +39 041 5221867 in fabulous small restaurants.

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N O Rio de ServiFON.DA L O CALL DEL E DEL DE CATERI CA PIST NIELE O LL OR Abazia P A E LE RIELL I C CATEN CANAL O R D IA NT INI E CAMPIELLO A R A CAM N della Misericordia A CAL R D O N A SAN MARZIALE A S C ALLE S . L E O G C R I O T E R À RI O FO CAMPO TERÀ NDAMENTA TRAPOL FOS Chiesa dei Gesuiti DE IA SAN LEONARDO INA FO LA LE L NUOVA ISOLA MB MADDALE N ORD CAMPO DAMENTA CALLE LUN Palazzo Labia CA COLO NA FONDAMENTA S SAFFA Parco ISERIC E Canale della Misericordia Salone del Tiepolo L L

A Savorgnan San Leonardo, D C N R E CA' DEL TRONCHETTO I DIET I A O I NT R TE N FOND. M A A O RÀ T CAT CAMPO UER LA CH La Maddalena VENDRA Q E IE RINA CAMPO C E SA ISOLA N ALLE CALLE PESARO SAN GEREMIA L RACHE AL Santa Fosca FO DEI GESUITI C A NDAM

San Marcuola CA MIN L DE STRADA NOVA CAMPIELLO ENTA ZE OV LLE E C C L CAMPO E DE N A DEL TRONCHETTO DEL REMER TR C ALL A ELI FON A F ’ SAN MARCUOLA EN L San Geremia A D. S.ANDREA MI LE LARG A E G CALL FONDA SER H IET GAZ PRIUL 3 Casino E SAN C ALLE V A SPAGNA TT A A P D ICO O VE M OLTI M EI BOTERI ENTE di Venezia E L I AI S.Marcuola Rio dei Santi Apostoli RD E L CCH C People Mover Venezia FOND. AL D N C CAMPO DE SA LE E D C IA e ALLE DEL L DAMENTA RTOR VENIER E L OVE d L AVALLETTI I I n O a Museo LE ERBE L AL r A C FON CAMPO G C l A OZZI ISOLA DELLE TRESSE a Civico STUA FONDAMENTA DE LA CARITA’ TERÀ LISTA DI n a IULI O C CALL PR NO DEI CORDONI

RI Di Storia LE VIGNOLE ZA CORTE DEL O E DO P E L OR BE L P REMER A S.Stae San Felice O L Riva de Biaso F R AZ L RL DI BIASI Naturale IU GA CAL CA L R L

C E TE E E I IO T DE NDIS Santa Maria RIVA ER L VO CALLE S A San Zan DEL RU À LTO EL B T Palazzo AR E TO LE Rio Ca’ Dolce I BA L E FRUTA L RAM H O AL di Nazareth ERÀ LE V R DEL

Parcheggio Bus Turistici TEGO IO IOL M CORTE DEL C Degola CAL ORA Gidoni E FONDAMEN AG CAMPO EG R POZETO ZI ON D M E L O T T DE ORO VENEZIA SAN ZAN DEGOLA’ OR A F L CAMPIELLO CA E

RI IT ALL S D . DEL A FONDAMENTA NOVE C C O DE LA MADONNA AL San Stae C IST LL SAL LE NI E LE L TRON Ca' Pesaro ST UERO NTO CA CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO Ponte RAD A CAMPO RIO I ’ LLE ST NO Santa Sofia VALMARANA T DEL PESTRIN SQ A T SANTI APOSTO ER R AE Galleria Internazionale N C L C A A DEL P A ALLE Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia ’ DE T À O CORTE E degli Scalzi L N ERD .S SAN SIMON ARI ’IS S O R FONDAMENTA DEI OLA V C VA OVA DA BATAGIA San Lazzaro B d'Arte Moderna R I E D A OR A ER S CALL CO CORTE L GRANDO T IA DEL F Ca’ D’Oro NTI LIST LLE A CAMPIELLO CORTESE A dei Mendicanti C ’ D’ Ferrovia C. DEL E A LIZ IA NDI A CALLE C C CAL AZZA A STELLA L OF RIO BA RAMO S S E CORTE NOVA LE E ARG DE CALL C. CA NDIC LA T LIZADA SAN C L VIDA ENTOR A C NTA C CALL A ORSETTI A S LL IO AL ISOLA NOVA DEL TRONCHETTO LUNGA a S Santi Apostoli ME E O LE CAMPIELLO San Simeone SA EI LLE D n P CALLE SAV EI TIO EG M WIDMANN IO RO M CAMPIELLO CALL D a R O CALLE CA G E San Simeon C. LA CA Cà d'Oro DELLA CASON R AB Profeta Z EL E I l R ZI T IE T LI NTA E D G T NNA PONTE DELLA LIBERTÀ CORTE DEL I E PUNTA SABBIONI Piccolo NU San Giacomo INA LL EL r TIOZZI I CA R RUG A V ECCHI CA a LO GA DEI BARI A CAMPIELLO TESTA S.Canciano OspedaleDAM SS. Giovanni e Paolo ARM OVA PAN n O Chiesa Evangelica N 3 CAL N 3 dall'Orio SAN CANCIANO C. TR NTA DE LE GRUE M N DR LE Rio Dei Mendicanti A d MA IO LE ICC SAN CAMPO DA C A C D SCUOL FO Ferrovia A e WI CA IN Luterana AME EL E E P A LLE G D LL GHETTO VECCHIO LIZ DE LA DIREZIONE MERCATO ITTICO NAZARIO RUGA BELA D CA People Mover Venezia S FONDAMENTA GARZOTTI E ME A RE Santa Maria LLE E S FONDAMENTA SANTA LUC A A CAMPO IM Palazzo CAMPO Z L CALL O FOND L C S.MARIA NOVA E SAURO E AL O SAN GIACOMO Mater Domini D CAMPO DELLA CALL NE Soranzo E C LA E DEI B DALL’ORIO San Cassiano PESCARIA IAN RG CAMPO I ANZ A Santa Maria del Pianto SAN SIMON G ALLE R . G CAL A SAN C ALL Capello Palazzo Grioni SANTA MARIA C E LIZAD O INA TA S SA N N Giardino di Palazzo FONDA L MATER DOMINI OT O RR P.le Roma ERGA E CAMPO CAMPO TO IO DEI MIRACOLISanta Maria D P EL O Ferrovia EI B RTE L FO Soranzo Cappello TIN SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA BO E SAN BOLDO A Basilica dei STELLO DAME MEN CALLE ORS G dei Miracoli E C O M ZATO E D E D N ET H T . ELL CA N E TI O S BECARIE DEL DE LE L A NA ASCHI V CALLE D L E . I C OC R N BO LL E San Giovanni C Santi Giovanni e Paolo TA E CA CAL A ALL FO ONZ F E IN LL CAMPO CA DEL CAMPO ST DE LA ’ C D A L BO LE BB FORN E CALL DO DE CAL E CESARE BATTISTI IU NV CA’ CA C. R CA O I G OLO Grisostomo LE C LL OCH IN MU Z HE E DE GIÀ CA SANTI GIOVANNI PUCC CINI C. DE L’ N ST A T TI O E CORTE CANAL LA CALLE STUA LA B ’A LL L DELLA I AP A M Ponte T ONDO OTA IA A TE A L BELLA VIENNA F DE S ON GN T E PAOLO SAN O E E TO D A T S ME Teatro Malibran LE C EL AT CAMPO I ETE A NT IS I L ’ SEC LA ALL CALL T A CASE NUOV NUOVE A R M E D H CROCE C E L A della Costituzione SAN GIACOMETO SOS C C N O LE ER FON. DEI TOLE SE NN I A C LA ER . ENTA D C BE I D A SC OR E NA RU DE N Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto I SA . CA U T E M C R CAMPO A LL A A O L L AMPI E E AMENT IO SCAL D G CORTE SECONDA CCHIO SESTI F C D S MO GL R LE DEL E A D RTE GIOV PA O LA L G. GR CA L RI LL E S E N ALLE DEI DEL MILION SANT’AGOSTINO CARAMPANE ELL ALL CALLE MA CO O TE ANS C N RA R ES IER L CA FON O San Giacomo S. FON E A R O DE CAVA LE DE L CORTE DEL O CA R TER N O F P R A À ON GON RE B BAR LE D E VE BAR VEN IA DE DE L D R TEATRO LE CAM E L I S LE . TOLE CAMPO AL E LE A L DELL' diI Rialto C E CA R D CALLE DE L’A CHIA S LE C L CAL Casa di Marco Polo AL IO TE A C LE CAL R CAST . L DEL C SANTA A C L M AMENTA PAPADOPOLI CA RAM DE LA AF E SAN O CA ET E VEC CALLE SALIZAD ZO IER GIUSTINA SECONDO NT CAMPIELLO CA FR S Canale De ScomenzeraR Sant'Andrea AN PAN CAMPO Z ANC AG Giardino Z RAD SESTIE A À O E CAMPIELLO DETTO DE ES E S E DONZELA RIALTO M CO San Francesco INI ALL ALBRIZZI R O L A LIO C RUGA DE BARBARIA R L C A’ E N ALL E DE LA DEL SOL NUOVO Fontego EU CASTELLO LACA T O T' Papadopoli CAL FONDAME T MU D

ANDREA O CALLE ZO della Vigna E CAL 9 CA S N PIE CALL CA L NT LL A C dei Tedeschi E O LLE D E AS N CAL NA A DE CO L A L E ZO V C LA CELESTI NU Z D E RA C O DEL TE A L EI C ALL ELLA V . E CCO P EL E DE E DE CAMPO E D C L D CI C C EL D FONTE .M Sant’Aponal . DE L OS LE A . D I AMAI CAM EL NQU ART PI SANTA CAMPIELLO DELLA

E CALLE DI MEZZOE G OMBO D O D E CAMPO GHETA O IN O LL L U ST EN L CALLE MAGAZEN R GIUSTINA I GO D. L CONFRATERNITA SAN POLO EL CAL A Ponte CA GA E D F SAN STIN UR CA D SA O LL PAL E N FONDAM CALLE E PE SANTA CROCE N S L GI CAMPO LI I A CAMPO GIAZ LE CORTE RA D ON L ZO CORTE OVA CAMPO AR ZZ IZ RE AP O di Rialto LLE ZADA TREVISAN N M RI RDON CAMPO A EN O I VI E SAN APONAL DEL NI C O A O I SAN BORTOLOMIO DELLA CELESTIA I M T F DIREZIONE PORTO MARITTIMO R CIM T ERÀ C CA LATERANA San Nicola TA H DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN P E L IO O C S E People Mover Venezia NI AN CAMPO E R LL PIAZZALE ROMA X ESI NE D T V O LLE DEL P O E R O A A LME M CAMPO da TolentinoA N ’AR L CALLE NUOVA TABACCHI À C SAN LIO D RAM M Rialto NA L O NT E LLE OLT ADO O C A CIM O CAMPIELLO I A CORTE C. CAMPIELLO ALL OR M ISO C ME LAV LENTI SAN POLO CAMPO E L TARI RISTO AD San Silvestro MBASEI S SANTA MARIA OR AL D DEL MORION RIO TERÀ SANT'A I ESI DEI IZ DEL V BI SALIZAD DA C E DE E AD . RU RAD FORMOSA ONDU E DRI A SANTA GIU TO DOLE BO L C F N A E LA L I S PA FONDAMENTA San Lorenzo S CORTE MELONI SAN SILVESTRO C. AN LE L TINA EL L D L FON C LE EL LI E D D A O AL DEI PRETI . CAMPO AL L GAL D DE LA F. F. C APR DE CALLE ERIZ C C I C . C

R AZZO ND DEI RA AL A I LE C E CAMPO RE Rio de le Muneghete L C I L CALLE LARGA SAN SANTA TERNITA A E L LORENZO VIDA A ZORZI TRONCHETTO DEL LA I Fontego C R IBRE . LARG CA Santa Maria RGA MAZZIN R I L A S ON. A San Rocco Basilica SAN LORENZO M FO CORTE DEL A

L CE F Chiesa Rettoriale LI O D R BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO CALL CALLE R Santa Maria ZO Dolfin Manin Z E SABION CAMPO CORTE Formosa Palazzo N A M AGNER DA E LA MA Palazzo Rava I FONDAMENTA MINOTT E dei Frari O DEL MONDO Rio Nuovo T CAMPO di S. Polo CORTE NOVA IN CAMPOIELLO ST C. D DE LA FAVA S T Rialto CORTE I EL CA della Fava NUOVO IO

F ORET ELLODE DE LA PASINA LIC A I E Grimani M Rio DE L’OG DE N ON SACCA C AR FOND CORTE LLE P SAN SALVADOR CA T DEI FRARI (Palazzo Cavalli) A ZAR L S C Rio Del Magazen DO A O I C. IO LL A DAM A SAN O LI AM o della Consolazione O LLE E CORTE DE Z SA ZA C N O C AN AM BEMB LVADOR CORTE ONI CA B S A A S LE DO EN CALLE SAN DA LLE 6 LOV RUBBI NT TA DE DE ME ENTA SA LORENZO CAMPO NA O S.Silvestro A LLE E LICINI a O T ERERIA EL CA CAMPIELLO A O TO D DR C n Lorenzo D SAN L FONDAMENTA FABBRICA TABACCHI SAN ROCCO ANT’ Palazzo CALL E E SA QUERINI L Teatro L A SAL San Giovanni O E S US N S E GATE SI LA C L STAMPALIA R N AL A L M IZA CCO C L UGA G I LE DE EV DA S CA Querini OR S MA LLE Carlo Goldoni San Salvador A C MA CASTELLO E C R R C E di Malta C I AS E GIUF EN . DE AN N RO N A ZARI MEZ R CA Palazzo A CORTE DEL i A I L o S CORTE O C P L L L A E Z ANTALON SA B L LE E DEL O ALB LE Stampalia CORTE CALL L O Sa F O O TEATRO R ZULIAN B E E DE A AL P TE R FRUTARIOLI D L I COR CA N IA CORTE DELLE GATE I Querini-Dubois n S O E

CA CAL L L PIT SA L’ IERI DE CA A ELLO AN NUOVA CAL Palazzo NE DEL TEAT al B L CALLE C La Biennale di Venezia E e CORTE DEL ALLE L LE L E CORTE ION Z L R va INA O d E R LLE L CALLE DEI FURLANI POZZO ROVERSO CAMPIELLO LO CAMPO BON A E C ZORZI n GR C P CA C dor C LU SBIACCA CALL D TRAMONTIN CA A DA CALLE DEI PRETI CAL AVALLI IS .D T O ZA RÀ DEI PENS a Grimani ELLO PIS LI Educational Arsenale E LU E A DUE POZZI E STRETA L r IMA CO L DI S CAMPOIELLO L SAN TOMÀ N LLE T E ETI L A RON PR DIREZIONE PORTO MARITTIMO L E AG M I CAL RIO TE L G SA C DE NI PIA E DE C IAPI AR O ALLE C C DE LA Arsenale di Venezia l L A CALLE B CA .DE ZA FONDAMEN a AL I E L L RA C. D R E C C FABBR E I E DEL REM FRATERNA ASEGO n BA A S L E ELLA DE C 4 CA LO I P AN A 4 C a San Giuliano San Tomà IGN CAL . D L ALL TE G L L C ZEN Z C N E L GA I OL U L MAGAZE L E CR E LIA CORTE CALLE DE I MA I SCU DE DEL TRAG San LucaCAMPIELLO EL N San Giovanni Novo San Beneto E D DEL FORNO L OS C CAMPO San Pantalon LL TIA B La Biennale di Venezia Rio dei T IN DELLA CA D CA AL E Sant'Angelo S N I AS SAN ZUANE RDO ARI R CHIESA L LE SM CA O A L CORTE L’ T Giardino delle Vergini o E NOVO DE I TA l TA ON FO en HETTO CAMPO REDI D CRE EN Teatro alle Tese tini LL EI NDAM Palazzo CORTE GRAGOLINA A NDAM SA Palazzo EONA ECI M SP FO LIZA SPE S L CO ENTA E DEL C DA S R CAZZ CAMPO SAN BENETO A . L’A CALLE PI ADA A R VO RZARI A GR A N GOL N DE SCINA SAN MART LA A IO FORNO CH I NUOVO CALLE DEL FIGHER N TON NTON E PI Giustinian Nervi R O IN CALL SAN PANTALON I VECCHIO NA DE DURO CAMPO LI IA ERI T San Giorgio Rio de le Vergini O D D G A O ORO E FONDAMENTA RIZZI SESTIERE RC ET IOLA A L GA RAGUSEI O EL RA D N G AN M P Persico NI MANIN N C. E E S Scattolin M CA T E L GA C. C AR RSO I LONN Palazzo Fortuny Z O CAL DI SAN MARCO EA E LE C L RI dei Greci ATER D ’ A IE C. AZ O ALLE LAR IC CAMPO O L TR N P C ON Canale delle Fondamenta Nuove LE C. RI A R AN

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ENI V IN OLONN A D Arsenale di Venezia ALL TIERE SI V LLE M GA L C.D SEL D STRIN ARINA ER A SS N Rio Del Palazzo S ZA

C CAMPO Palazzo FO RI L DEI LEONCINI S O C A PE SA E OTO SALI E C S S CALL DE Palazzo Balbi A D CORTE L E E T D. NA AT À N TE N L SAN O RAZZ LLE TO C L E I ER RA Basilica di San Pietro di Castello SE C ER A 1 DA A MO PRIMO DE A FO I O T I TORRETTA CA LA PERGOLA . C F E Mocenigo A DE E FONDAMENTA T L IO A ES ASSE LORENZO R ME LLE A C E CAMPO BB N CAMPO F C R ORT C L O CA CA ELLO I AL A R N CALLE L NA LLE DEL FO C SAN GALLO P DE N LE LARGA RO AL R V I TR DO T L LBA LE A A CERERI AP PIE C D R PI C A TA BANDIERA CALL E M EI LE DEL ERO C ’ A TTI A D . LLE A L MO O CORTE A D San Zaccaria S N D LA F LE RAGUSEI C ME E DE E DE L’ASEO SE N GRI SCA E E EL OV C A S ONDA N DE C SA CALL CAL DELLE ANCORE BIA L V E MORO ROS LLE San Martino R A E N FONDAMENTA INA S. S O CA FO A A CA RS T F O N D A I TA’ E A Basilica N L ALLE AD E PES V RA E C LLED E IOL DEL A I L C E M E CAL TAR CALL OL L P FONDAMENTA N TA A R S E N A L E M A FRU L CA AL ’ V C CAMPO DI C C. DEL O E RA LA EN C TR TT AL ELE AL PIO E di San Marco DE MO C U A L CALLE L E DEI CHIA E O Santa Maria CO M MU E L SALIZ CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI IN DEL CA D TA ROSSA 2 E

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SAN MARCO LE e San Gerolamo San e SA I FRE RI MOR d Rio L OND. RI E C. B D NO E A A G C L SANT’ANZOLO IN n E BOT C SC ARRO O NTA DE L' ARZ RIO TERA . I OR CA VOLT IO CALLE G DEI TO PI C S ’OG San Fantin L IN E L DEL PESCA ZZE DE E E F LLE D CAMPO RDO E CAL A O N D CA RNA a E GHE D BE Palazzo RRO L ALL PIAZZA SAN MARCO Palazzo Ducale E AL A M LLE L EGHE E CA A C E N CA CA L N R I VA D E G L I S C H I AV O N I L TA A A R EL OT 5 A CHIES O DEI i D U IO L GLI SCHIAVONI LLE S E N A L E LE C ORT DR EN l E ES E A L R A CAL CAL C E M I V A D E S LO CASTELLO Grassi FORNI L R U CARMINI LE D C CAL L E UG AR G CA H ALLE R D Santo Stefano I V BRIATI I Museo AR FON S I E L CA ARA A O T ’ M D L A A A E L L’ E CA L LE CALL LA N PIETRO DI C IANI C A LLE DEI D INT C E L VECCH Rio del Carmin ER . San Samuele r A E DE LE PRIMORINA Correr CA VID Ca' Rezzonico O A RGA QU AM A A NAL R RE a Teatro la Fenice E CONT N FONDAMENTA SANTA MARTA ’ E’ T D CAMPO A DE AMO S. Samuele COR AS CAMPO Santa Maria T E CAMPIELLO MOIS E SAL ALLE FONDAMENT S. Zaccaria (Pieta') L P A L n C. DE AL C Canale Scomenzera S I C C A SANTO STEFANO A LA T A A Z DEI CALEGHERI E A D CIN NA Ca' Rezzonico I NSION dei Carmini S IS ENZE S. Zaccaria (Danieli) d E P C CALLE C L RAMO DE O L A S A TANA A A San Moisè ST San Barnaba e FONDAMENTA F O N ZZ RTOR CAMPO E D A M E N TA C. San Maurizio R I O D E L L EL C ER MOLO SAN MARCO A TA RARDINI Palazzo Loredan A DEI FORNI FONDAMEN N A S HE LO G L CAL LONGHI A LO A SAN MOISE’ C A CAMPIEL TA CORTE L CAL C RO N F E CC CA L . ON AMEN A LA L V I LE C ’ ND MARZO N LLE PO OR FO MICHIEL II L O SE C XX CALLE V L LO DE LE A OR RIE D R L IA LLE RGA E DEI PR A O A E A L I E L E T CH CAL C E A L L S F LLE A L RA CAL Rio San Moise Arsenale E A CAMPO A LO MENT B NIC N O CA Santa Maria D R RESS ZO R LTRE ED A DEGLI LE V AN I IZ P S BARNA LE F R Museo Storico Navale di Venezia RIDO LLE TA A P L IE T O A N SAN MAURIZIO I A N ’ MA A ZIEN O CI A S C N IA del Giglio CALLE O RA San FrancescoR RC HIN N M ALLE SAN SAN SE I UO ETI C CAMPO D TTO CALLE DI CA ORN FOND. SAN GIOACC ARTIR C ZE A E E L U N G A A V F L L PE A Angelo CAMPO L GIUST SANTA MARIA L L di Paola A CALLE CA L S A N T ' A N N San Nicolò DEL E CAMPO DE F O N D A M E N TA C DRIO IL T AT B N A I G E L L A C EMIA DEL GIGLIO I BASTIAN S C A G ALL CORTE E Raffaele CIMITERO LLE San Vidal E TR R T DE IM dei Mendicoli E CAL PISANI T BAROZZI LAR IN R D AN

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CAL LE CONVE BASILICA DI SAN MARCO RTITE FONDAMENTA ZITE  RIVIERA SAN FONDAME V I A L E I V N O V E M B R E NTA Parco delle PONTE O PIC COL O Rimembranze V I A L E V I T T O R I O V E N E T O T E LL'OLI Lido S. Nicolo' AR GIUDECCA M CA RRANDO P O D I PONTE DEI SOSPIRI L L E AM E LE DE F O N D A M E N FE  COS TA Redentore L L O C MO I AL S A N G I TA ERB A C O M O IL C E DA T L CAMPIE SANT’ELENA C ON DE FONDAMENTA CROCE C C A L L E A NOB TRE T E A L L I S LUNGO CALLE MASON L E LL E E O RO L E GRANDE OSP CA M Scuola Navale Militare A O E N T PONT A M C I I ZI CANAL GRANDE AC N CALLE O C G R A O C L GI L MO  "Francesco Morosini" E D A EL R AN LA CORT I CROC L L E ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA F A SAN E C H E L DAME Santissimo Redentore LE L ON O F ER A N CA CALLE U FO AMENTA Q LLE ACCADEMIA D NDAME NTA PA D L E S GER LLADA A L G E L O CA CALL ON CALLE MORE C E F SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO SCU OLA Santa Croce  KLIN E

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7 7 RIV O  THE GHETTO RIN MA  PONTE DI RIALTO

DELL'OSPIZIO  THE ISLANDS V I A

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QUILEIA

I A A ISOLA LA GRAZIA V

SAN SERVOLO RIVIERA SANTA MARIA ELISABETTA V I A F R À M A U R O

IRNE M

V I A S

VICOLO ZENO Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia V I A PA O L O E R I Z Z O VIA NEGROPONTE

G R A N V I A L E S A N TA M A R I A V I A Z A R A

RIELE D'ANNUNZIO B

V I A D O G E M I C H I E L LLO A E G L I S A B E T TA

LUNGOMARE GA MAGOSTA A

V I A S A N D R O

V I A F

V I A O R S O PA R T E C N V I A D A N D O L O E N R I C O

I P A Z I O ANTO T N PA E L A I V

VIA L. MOCENIGO

VIA VETTOR PISA ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista LUNGOMARE GUGLIELMO MARCONI

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D ALLO V I A J A C O P O N A N I

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ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE I

ANDRO VIA

V I A I S T R I VIA GAL VIA S

L IPOLI Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

D A L M A Z I A A VI LIDO DI VENEZIA V I A L O R E N Z O M A R C E L L O

100 m V I A D O M E N I C O S E LV O

V I A C A N D I A

GOMARE GUGLIELMO MARCONI

O GALLO LUN

ANDIA

VIA S I A C Festival Danza Orientale V e Danza del Ventre Venezia LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia

V I A M O R O S I N I

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

V AI P EI T R O B U R AT T I ONI

LLO V I A A N T O N I O L A M B E R T I Hotel Excelsior Venice

S. Antonio Di Padova VIA D. PIZZAMANO VIA SANDRO GA

V I A A N D R E A C A L M O NGOMARE GUGLIELMO MARC LU

V I A P. G A R Z O N I

V I A A . M O R O S I N I

VA DI CORINTO

RI V I A L E O N A R D O L O R E D A N

V I A J . D I E D O

ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

RIVA BENEDETTO MARCELLO VIA ANTONIO VIVALDI

VIA SANDRO GALLO

MARE GUGLIELMO MARCONI VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO

UNGO L

VIA SAN PIGAFETTA

VIA SANDRO GALLO

V I A O N G A N I A VIA SAN PIGAFETTA

V I A A N D R E AVIA D ANICOLA A S O L A JENSON

RIVA GIOVANNI E VINDELLINO DA SPIRA

VIA SANDRO GALLO

V I A D E I S E S S A

VIA FRANCESCO PEZZANA

RIVIERA PASQUALI

VIA SANDRO GALLO V I A D E L Z AT TA

V I A D E I R E M O N D I N I VIA GIOVANNI PIVIDOR

V I A C O L E T T I

VIA MALAMOCCO

ISOLA POVEGLIA VIA ALVISOPOLI

VIA MALAMOCCO

VIA FERRUCCIO PARRI

MALAMOCCO

VIA

VIA MALAMOCCO MALAMOCCO Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

A GIOV O N O C A I D I N N VA O I G VA I R PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

R I O T E R À [ ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS ] ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST Where Venice Magazine HOTELS and online

5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Terme (Pd) Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Hotel Due Torri Abano – Via Pietro D’abano, 18 – Abano Terme (Pd) (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 Hotel Terme Miramonti – Piazza Roma, 19 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 4 STAR AND LUXURY RESIDENCES Belmond Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • G6 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) dell’Orto) • E2 (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino Execelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 (Ve) Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palazzo Giovanelli – San Polo, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 15 – Mestre (Ve) Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Tessera (Ve) Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 4 STAR San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 – Mestre (Ve) A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Hotel Garden Terme – Corso delle Terme, 7 – Montegrotto Terme Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta De Losmarin) • G5 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 (Pd) Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Hotel La Residence & Idrokinesis – Via Monte Ceva, 8 – Abano Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Terme (Pd) Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Mercerie) • F4 Hotel Terme Metropole – Via Valerio Flacco, 99 – Abano Terme (Pd) Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, Hotel Tritone Terme – Via A. Volta, 31 – Abano Terme (Pd) Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 288 • F4 NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map

ALL YOU CAN DO Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map IN THE CITY

THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO Cavalletto) • F4 JANUARY 2017

www.where-venice.com Venice Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 OUT OF TOWN ®

TEATRO LA FENICE Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 5 STAR DELUXE (L) AND 5 STAR DISCOVER THE UPCOMING EVENTS YOUR GIFT IDEAS CITY GUIDE OUT OF TOWN Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Abano Grand Hotel (L) – Via Valerio Flacco, 1 - Abano Terme (Pd) NATURE, HISTORY AND SPAS Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria – Via Pietro D’Abano, 1 – Abano A MAGIC WATER SYMPHONY

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