Anno 2 numero 41 - Firenze Thursday 5 October 2006

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Florence Dying man’s Best Kept Guess what’s lands in the last wish Secrets coming to Forbidden dinner City By Britt Alexander By Arlene Ridolfi Valentine see pg. 5 see pg. 6 see pg. 17 see pg. 21

Buon Appetito STOMPING Renaissance Disneyland HAS STARTED Tourist tax approved for Florence Boccaccio Vineyards optimistic Certaldo’s festival about 2006 harvest feeds body and soul by Valerie Perkins he home town endemmia is harvest time, and Tof literary giant Vfor wine makers it’s the most Giovanni Boccac- exciting part of the process of cio is to become wine production. For the pickers worthy host to one however, it’s the beginning of a of Tuscany’s most long period of hard work. Grape unique food festi- pickers come from all over Europe vals. During two to work the Italian grape harvest. weekends in October (6-8 and 13- Locals looking for extra work may 15), the medieval town of Certaldo pick for two or three different win- will open its gates to a wide variety eries. Some families, those who of food-inspired events designed to are not in the wine selling busi- inspire cooks and connoisseurs and ness but make wine instead for dmission paid upon entering each Italian municipality now has tempt seasoned eaters from all walks their own use, invite friends over the city gates? Turnstiles and the right to apply a ‘city tax’ of 5 euro of life. for a day of picking or stomping, Aa stamp on your hand if you per visitor. Florentine citizens and A chance to feed both body and followed by an evening of drink- leave the ‘premises’? Will residents offi cial residents will be free from soul, the Boccaccesca Festival brings ing a bit of wine from previous stand by and watch their city become said contribution, which will weigh together food and the arts, thanks to harvests. It’s also customary for an amusement ‘park’ where visitors on the pocketbooks of both tourists its series of artistic initiatives—paint- hosts to give their guests fruit to pay to see the attractions? Should and commuters. The money earned ing, poetry and even sculpture— take home, and, later, bottles pro- the hoards of tourists that fl ock to will go towards the city’s service sec- inspired by culinary themes. Kids duced from their labour that day. Florence in search of old art bear the tor to supplement funds needed to will get a kick out of Alessandro Even for those wine makers cost of maintaining the city’s streets, manage Florence’s upkeep. Just how Gigli’s scrumptious stories and food- who practice their craft simply sites and services? These are the con- will they collect the money? For related rhymes. And once they’ve for the love of wine-making, the troversial questions that have been tourism councillor Silvano Gori, the had their fi ll of word games, they can 2006 vendemmia will be a stress- puzzling both national and regional answer lies in technology. ‘I think try ‘new’ snacks like the ones their ful harvest. Weather conditions law makers for months. The verdict, we have the technological means grandparents used to enjoy. Games this year have not been kind to it seems, has fi nally arrived. for determining who is exempt from and dances will abound thanks to Tuscan wine makers. There was According to new regulations payment. We just have to study the infamous Compagnia del Drago too much rain and cool weather announced last week during the III the best way to put the system into Nero. Agriculture factors in as well, through May and the beginning NationalV06281_XC70FLORENTINE_toExplore.qxd Conference for Tourism, effect,’ 24-03-2006 he says. 9:34 Pagina 1 in a show featuring the art of Daniel of June. see pg. 3 see pg. 3

VOLVO XC70. DON’T STOP TO EXPLORE.

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3 www.thefl orentine.net News Thursday 5 October 2006

������������������������������ Florence NEWS via santa maria 32r - 50125 Firenze tel. fax 055 2306616 continued from pg. 1 info@thefl orentine.net editore Buon Appetito Boccaccio Table of CONTENTS Azimuth s.r.l. Schmiedt (currently on exhibit in the Chiostro delle Suore). Schmiedt viale Montegrappa 142 - 59100 Prato sculpts earth with simple tools to create surprisingly original imaginary crea- FLORENCE NEWS direttore responsabile tures. 1 Renaissance Disneyland Fabiana Ceccarelli ‘Piatto d’Artista’ will showcase internationally-renowned Italian-Ameri- editor in Chief can painter Edward Giobbi, whose works represent his great passion for Buon Appetito Boccaccio Nita Tucker cooking. And for those whose tastes turn to traditional handicrafts, the Boccaccesca Festival will also host two interesting events spotlighting tradi- Stomping has started managing editor tional artisans and their crafts: ‘Maestri in Mostra’ will present on-site dem- Linda Falcone onstrations by expert artisans of various trades; and ‘L’artigianato in vetrina’ Spooks and snoops contributing editors will provide space for craftsman to exhibit and sell their wares, thanks to 4 Marco Badiani, Elia della Chiesa, a program sponsored by Artex. As you meander through the stalls, expect Pensioners among poorest Giovanni Giusti, Antonio Lo Iacono, samples of Tuscan culinary treats, including wines, cheeses and specialty More than just words Amy Gulick, Tony Tucker cold cuts. Thanks to Le tavole del Boccaccio (‘Boccaccio’s tables’), hungry and cultural editor curious folk can follow the map of local restaurants that will open their Florence lands in the Jane Fortune doors for food samplings inspired by this special occasion. For the entire list 5 Forbidden City of where to fi nd good eats see www.boccaccesca.it. But those who’d rather sales director ‘eat in’ can brush up on their own cooking skills by attending special lessons Chains replace charm Giacomo Badiani with chefs Riccardo Monco and Italo Bassi from the Enoteca Pinchiorri. travel & Leisure writer These expert chefs will teach you how to prepare your own tasty fi rst and NATIONAL NEWS Sabine Eiche second courses and desserts—ones you won’t be afraid to whip up in your 6 Italy still hotspot for US own kitchen. Another venue for good food and creative fl air is the V Premio graphics and layout Chichibio, a contest reserved for students enrolled in hotel management Plugging up the leaks Leo Cardini - Cathy Gale courses. Awards will go to the most delicious and creative cookery, as future agilelogica.it chefs put their skills to the test. Dying man’s last wish Combining age-old tradition and modern-day creativity, the Boccaccesca printer festival promises to tempt taste buds and nourish an appreciation for alter- SPORT NEWS La Marina, Calenzano (Fi) native art and ancient craftsmanship. 7 Oldest but not slowest

iscrizione al ROC Two teams at top spot (reg. degli operatori di comunicazione) continued from pg. 1 n. 9927 reg. trib. di Prato TOP PICKS & trasmessa il 19/04/05 9 CALENDAR OF EVENTS STOMPING HAS STARTED Events Highlights wondering where that scorching Tuscan sun was hiding, it came beating down, despite intermittent days of cold and rain, up until August. Tempera- UP CLOSE & PERSONAL tures climbed in June and July, which was frightening as it could have cre- 14 An interview with ated another ‘tropical’ harvest like the one in 2003. However, September Jane Fortune was beautiful… ‘A wave of warm weather can block the vegetative function of plants,’ CULTURE & CUSTOMS reported Il Corriere Del Vino recently. Still, wine specialists are optimistic. 15 ITALIAN VOICES: They are predicting an important grape harvest, in terms of both quantity A Window on Language and quality. According to the predictions of the UIV (Unione Italiana Vini), and Customs in Italy Italy will produce more than 53 million hectolitres of wine, which is six per- cent more than last year. There has been rigorous vegetative development MOSAIC all over Italy, which will produce high quality wine as well. The notable noc- 16 Spotlight on Florentine turnal thermal excursions are superior to those of 2005—this should assure Museums complex aroma which will make a very elegant wine,’ stated a representa- tive of APROVITO (Associazione Produttori Vitivinicoli Toscani), who also TRAVEL & LEISURE hypothesises that although grapes may mature late this year, they will be Best Kept Secrets healthy and of higher quality. 17 Another interesting characteristic of this year’s harvest is that, while there was a great deal of rain, it didn’t produce any signs of water stress Calling on Caruso on the vines because the temperature was scorching. ‘If it doesn’t rain any- more this month, we should have the same quantity of grapes as 2005, but 18 of a superior quality,’ said a representative of Tenuta Valdipiatta. ‘Grapes that mature late are generally healthy grapes.’ THE ARTS 19 A not-so-real Italian Neorealism? FOOD & WINE 20 FOODIE’S CORNER: ‘Squashed’ bread with grapes Guess what’s coming to 21 dinner

BOOK REVIEW 22 Florentine Crime, Florentine Retribution USEFUL NUMBERS 23 CLASSIFIED ADS

4 Thursday 5 October 2006 News www.thefl orentine.net Florence NEWS News in BRIEF Spooks and snoops MORE THAN ‘Giovanni’Violet smiles from on the block JUST WORDS Wantlocal children to be on a fi rst name basisFiorentina’s with the star city players of Florence? showed nine offi cials arrested for selling secrets Hospitals call for English- Callthey outcare the about name the ‘Andrea’ children and of speaking volunteers 3,201the Meyer men and Pediatric boys will Hospitalanswer. behind bars included employees of Accordingby auctioning to a offrecent their city-wide jerseys the Polis d’Istinto, a Florence-born namethrough search, the ‘give ‘Andrea’ a violet takes smile’ fi rst private investigative company with placeinitiative, as the which most raised common a totalfi rst branches in other cities through- nameof 9,300 throughout euro for the the hospital. Munici- out Italy. The agency was targeted palityToni’s ofnumber Florence. 30 gotMarco the slideshigh- for ‘corruption’ and for having intoest bid second at 1,655 place euro, with while more abused their posts by revealing offi ce thanother 3,000. high bids Third went place to Mutugoes secrets. to(number Alessandro 10 for at 9052,700. euro) And and for The line of defence of all sus- women?Montolivo Try (number Francesca—at 18 at least 765 pects involved is a simple one: no 2,012euro). The Florentine 16 team girls shirts go were by one was aware of the ‘reserved’ thatworn name. during There the fi rstare game also 1,794of the nature of the information in ques- donneseason who and wereanswer autographed to ‘Laura’ tion; nor were they aware of what andby the 1,542 players. called ‘Silvia.’ pies on the prowl. Spies in the ‘secrets’ would be used for once handcuffs. Spies set free. sold. Two suspects out of nine have TalesThe lady from saint the nose SInvestigations carried out by already been released, namely Gior- the Milanese proxy saw the recent thatShe isgrows the co-patron of the city gio Serlli, offi cial of the internal ou don’t need a medical de - arrest of 21 people throughout Italy. Aof Florence, centuries-old together giant with oak Saint fea- revenue service, and mobile squad gree to make people feel bet- Nine Tuscans were handcuffed and Y turedJohn the in Carlo Baptist Collodi’s and Saint The police offi cer Paolo Tilli. Guilty or ter. Just ask patients benefi ting accused of creating secret dossiers AdventuresZanobi. Known of Pinocchioas the interces- is ail- not, it appears the suspects sold the from the Associazione Volontari containing ‘sensitive, illegal data’ ing,sor tree against experts Barbarian said on invasion,Monday. secrets quite cheaply: According to Ospedalieri, an organization of about criminal employees of Tele- ExpertsSanta Reparatafrom all over protected Tuscany Flo-are suspects, each received a meagre 20 volunteers who assist patients com and Pirelli. The Tuscan bunch beingrentines called of the to 3rdprotect century the 600-A.D. euro per dossier. and their families before and after year-oldfrom the oakonslaught that is of included the Goths. on surgery. This year, the AVO is UNESCO’sOctober 8 World is Santa Heritage Reparata List. organizing its 49th course to pre- ItDay, inspired offi cially Collodi, celebrated who wrote since pare volunteers for work in eight a1999. fi nal On episode occasion in of which this holi- the hospitals and assisted living facili- woodenday, the puppetcity is offering was suspended free vis- Pensioners ties located throughout Italy. The fromits to the her giant crypt oak (located and left under to course goal is to help patients die.the Collodi Duomo) originally and complemen- wrote Pin- among poorest during pre- and post-operation occhiotary guided in a serialised tours of Florence’sform for a procedures to provide interpreting weeklyArchaeological children’s magazine. Museum The on Fixed incomes prove services to foreign patients. Eng- grislyOctober ending 7 and horrifi 8. ed Reservations the story’s lish and other foreign-language youngby phone readers prior andto the the event protests are insuffi cient speaking volunteers are particu- promptedrequired for the those author who to wishresume to larly needed, since tourists need writing.participate. Collodi For morepenned information a further help too! 19call episodes,055.261.6051. wrapping up with lorentines on the brink of pov- the cost of living is particularly high. Volunteers must be between a classic fairy-tale happy ending erty? Maybe, if you’re part of Experts argue that over the last 14 18 and 70 and in good health. Tuscanin which trek the inwooden China Pinocchio the city’s huge elderly popu- years, an average pension of 1,000 Those who wish to lend time and Thefi nally Tuscan becomes team a realof city boy. offi cials F a friendly ear need to attend a lation. According to recent stud- euro per month has lost more than and professionals trekked a total ies, Florence has one of the most 11 percent of its purchasing power. minimum of fi ve out of seven free of 20,507 kilometres during their numerous elderly populations in But if the present doesn’t seem par- weekly preparatory lectures and administrative and economic Italy and more than 42 percent of ticularly bright, then the forecast for donate at least three hours a week. mission in China last week. Led the city’s elderly are scraping by on the future looks decidedly dimmer. Participants will undergo a 12- by President Martini, representa- pensions that provide them with On average, Florentine pensioners month training period, supervised tives from local municipalities, less than 500 euro per month. Just today receive 80 percent of their by an experienced volunteer, and the province, universities and slightly better off, 35.5 percent live old salaries, quite a step ahead of join in group meetings to discuss more than 100 Tuscan busi- off sums ranging from 500 to 1,000 the up-and-coming ‘oldies,’ who will service-related issues. By helping nesses visited six Chinese cit- euro monthly. Pension-induced pov- have the right to just 55 percent of others you may just feel a bit bet- ies and met with more than 800 erty, a nation-wide problem in Italy, their last salary, according to newly- ter yourself. For more information business professionals. The is especially dire in Florence, where instated national integrative plans. call 055.2344567. results achieved include formal agreements regulating Chinese trade via the Port of Livorno, and contracts with Magnetek, Ansal- doBrenda and Finmeccanica. HeftyHefty fi nesnes forfor littlelittle litterbugs:litterbugs: CrackdownCrackdown onon offendersoffenders

itterbugs will fi nally get ‘This‘This m measureeasure i iss m meanteant t too Lwhat’s coming to them, ddiscourageiscourage citizenscitizens fromfrom dam-dam- thanks to a squeaky-cleansqueaky-clean aagingging thethe imageimage andand decorumdecorum VISIT OUR BLOG new law just hatchedhatched at Ponte ooff Florence,’Florence,’ sayssays citycity council-council- VVecchio.ecchio. Get caught throw- lloror G Grazianoraziano C Cioni,ioni, ‘ ‘eveneven i iff http://theflorentine. ing a scrap on the ground and rrespectespect forfor rulesrules andand standardstandard you’ll suddenly owe a wad of ccivicivic behaviourbehaviour shouldshould notnot blog.dada.net/ cash—up to 500500 euro to be bbee i imposedmposed b byy f fines.’ines.’ P Punish-unish- exexact.act. Fines that used to amount to ableable r rubbish-relatedubbish-related n no-no’so-no’s i includenclude a mere 5500 euro have grown a ‘zero’ bothboth traditionaltraditional litteringlittering asas wellwell asas overnight. But substantialsubstantial ‘discounts’‘discounts’ forfor dumpingdumping un-baggedun-bagged rubbishrubbish intointo are available for perpetrators who bins.bins. CCitizensitizens wwhoho lliveive iinn tthehe hhistoricistoric pay up within 6600 days. On-time pay- centercenter cancan eveneven bebe finedfined forfor takingtaking ment reduces the fi ne to a still con- outout tthehe ttrashrash aatt tthehe ‘‘wrongwrong ttime.’ime.’ siderable 161600 euros. 5 www.thefl orentine.net News Thursday 5 October 2006 Florence NEWS

BRONZE ATHLETE CHAINS PLAYS THE Florence lands in the REPLACE CHARM FLORENTINE FIELD Another historical Forbidden City business ‘moved’ out Croatian statue hosted in Chinese restoration efforts led by Italians Palazzo Medici Riccardi taly’s renowned res- fano Bertocci of Flor- toration expertise Taihe Hall (Hall of Supreme Harmony) ence University, who Icould soon be called also met with Jin sev- on to help one of the eral days ago when the most mysterious and latter visited Florence. challenging sites in the The written accord has world, the Forbidden not yet been signed, but City in China. Experts as the latest in a series from Florence Univer- of agreements between sity’s architectural plan- Italian and Chinese ning department, who experts, it is expected have restored dozens of to be passed. ‘They works of art in different basically want us to parts of the globe, are teach them our restora- now setting their sights tion and conservation on Beijing. Last week, representatives techniques,’ said Bertocci, adding from the university, Tuscan regional that the second part was particularly authorities and several local fi rms important. t’s one of the few bronze statues met with the deputy director of the The Forbidden City is one of the Ithat has beaten the test of time. Forbidden City’s Ancient Architec- most popular tourist attractions on After four years of painstaking res- ture Department, Jin Huan, and drew the globe. The world’s largest palace ne by one they leave us. And toration, Apoxyòmenos, The Croa- up an agreement for the project. complex at 720,000 square metres, the list of goodbyes gets lon- tian Athlete, a splendid Roman ‘The Forbidden City is most in it was the home of 24 emperors O ger. The historical gallery in Via statue of the 1st century B.C. and need of interventions on wood, on and was the country’s political cen- Tornabuoni is the latest victim of a copy of a Greek original from the the tiles, the mortar and some of the tre until 1912, when China’s last real estate speculation that has 4th century B.C. will be on show in pictorial decorations,’ explained Ste- emperor abdicated. (ANSA) the Palazzo Medici Riccardi in Flor- recently bumped numerous histor- ence from Oct. 1 2006 to Jan. 30 ical businesses from their cushy 2007. This masterpiece of ancient spots in the city centre. ‘Certainly art was recovered from the Adri- only multinational companies can Monster draws Dateline to Florence now afford the cost of sustaining atic sea in 1999 near the Croa- By journalist Mario Spezi tian island of Lošinj, after lying 45 a shop in the centre,’ says gallery metres deep in sand for over 2,000 special episode of ‘Dateline,’ exempt from a sense of thrill. Doug owner Fabio Fornaciai. Florentines years. A NBC’s popular television pro- accompanied the NBC crew and are now standing on the sidelines At a height of 1.93 metres, this gram, will be broadcast in Novem- Stone Phillips to the I Bibbiani Villa, to watch as international fash- imposing work probably depicts an ber. The show, fi lmed on location near Montelupo, where he and I had ion houses take the place of old athlete wiping off his sweat after a in Florence last week, will spotlight supposedly attempted to set police favourites like the Profumeria Ing- competition. The demanding and the story of the ‘Monster of Flor- investigations off track, according lese, Libreria Seeber, Caffè Gia- delicate task of restoration was ence,’ emphasizing the scandalous to commissioner Giuttari. While cossa and Pineider. Tornabuoni’s carried out by the Croatian Institute episode that kept me in prison for they were driving around, one of the gallery, which was awarded the for Restoration in Zagreb jointly 23 days last spring and saw writer Villa’s custodians yelled that he had Fiorino d’Oro prize in 2004, has with the Opifi cio delle Pietre Dure Doug Preston accused of bearing called the police. The group, who hosted works by the likes of Cap- in Florence. This collaborative rela- false witness. had done nothing illegal, decided it ogrossi, Braque, Magritte, Marino tionship made it possible to bring To tell the story, NBC landed in would be best to leave and made a Marini, De Pisis and Marma. Own- Florence with two crews led by pro- ‘real escape’ from the Italian police. ers of the gallery, which recently the exhibition to Florence for its th only Italian showing. The exhibit is ducer Joe Demonico and the show’s Everything turned out all right in the celebrated its 50 anniversary on open every day from 9am to 7pm, fl agship anchorman, Stone Phillips. end. Doug caught the plane back to Via Tornabuoni, call the decision to except Wednesdays. Admission The two were later joined by Doug the United States the next day, fear- move ‘inevitable.’ ‘We’d like to fi nd cost is 5 euro. Preston himself, on a visit that was ing he would be stopped at the air- another space, not far from the kept top secret for fear of the Italian port. But that night, I received a call centre,’ Farnaiciai says. For now, police authorities. from his wife, Christine, who laugh- though, their work will continue in The fi lming, in fact, was not ingly cried, ‘E’ tornato! He’s back!’ far-away Pietrasanta (Lucca).

ome might know the Cascine for its weekly market and some for its swimming pool, Cascine Shorse-racing tracks, children’s rides, the pond, Lampredotto, bike paths, running paths, or as a place to go on romantic adventures. There is however, a new way to see sees the Cascine. Naturalist Assessor Claudio Del Lunga calls it ‘an occasion to discover nature and to know her secrets.’ The Environmental Offi ce has recently created paths that guide visitors through green 21 points of observation. Along the path, walkers can read informational signs about trees and other wildlife, with specifi c details about older trees and rarer species. Routes begin on Viale Pegaso and wind throughout the Cascine in eight directions. Del Lunga referred to the park as ‘urban woods,’ as there is a variety of protected wildlife living ����������������������������� there. He says that the park, which is adjacent to the Field of the Cornacchie, has been remapped with the same plan as that of the 1800’s and has become a true park of the ������������������������������� people. From 2004 to 2005, 720 new trees were planted, including lime trees, oaks, �������������������� maples, and ash trees as well as different species of plants and fruit trees. New growth planning has been carried out by expert botanists in order to guarantee the balanced ��������������������� development of the Cascine’s environment. ������������������� 6 Thursday 5 October 2006 News www.thefl orentine.net National NEWS News in BRIEF Italy still hotspot for US Paris does Prosecco DYING MAN’S Producers and fans of Italian Military expansion in Italy under scrutiny Prosecco are up in arms over LAST WISH plans by an Austrian company to Afghanistan included,’ the Italian Plea for euthanasia market the sparkling white wine journal L’Espresso reported recently. in a can. The wine will be called More than $300 million had provokes debate ‘Rich Prosecco,’ and American already been released for the 2007 heiress and jet-setter Paris Hil- construction of new barracks and ton has been hired to be the other buildings. The entire invest- product’s pitch girl. Makers of ment would amount to $1 billion, quality Prosecco, which is pro- with work due to be completed by duced in the northeast zones of 2010, the weekly said Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, Several parties in Prodi’s nine- are very worried that the reputa- way governing coalition immediately tion of their wine will suffer from called on the premier to halt the proj- the marketing of an inferior prod- ect. Hard leftists and pacifi sts, who uct. ‘It is a blatant example of have already crossed swords with exploiting the Prosecco name, which has earned recognition Prodi over the continued deployment thanks to decades of hard work remier Romano Prodi’s gov- of Italian troops in Afghanistan, were by over 3,000 vineyards and 130 ernment is under pressure to particularly alarmed and demanded producers,’ said Franco Adami, Pblock plans to set up the biggest clarifi cation from Defence Minister American military base outside the Arturo Parisi and Foreign Minister chairman of the consortium of talian President Giorgio Napoli- the region’s producers. US on Italian territory. The admin- Massimo D’Alema. Senator Silvana istration of US President George W. Pisa of the coalition’s largest party, Itano has set off a fi restorm in Bush had won agreement from the Democratic Left, expressed concern: traditionally Catholic Italy by call- Hollywood royalty walks ing for a parliamentary debate Rome’s red carpet previous Italian government, led by ‘they are closing military bases and Silvio Berlusconi, to build the new installations across Europe. Only on euthanasia. The head of state Rome is prepareing to lay down urged the debate last week after the red carpet for its fi rst ever fi lm base in the northern city of Vicenza. Italy and Bulgaria are doing the According to plans, the already opposite,’ she said. The UDEUR, a receiving a letter from a terminally festival, scheduled Oct. 13 to ill man who is fi ghting for mercy 21. Among the 16 fi lms compet- existing American military base, centrist party in the four-month-old which currently hosts 6,000 troops, Prodi government, expressed oppo- killing legalisation. ing in the festival are the Italian Affl icted with advanced muscu- drama A Casa Nostra by Fran- would be fl anked by a supplemen- sition to the project but said it would tary base near Vicenza’s airport and be diffi cult to halt. The Italo-Ameri- lar dystrophy, 60-year-old Piergior- cesca Comencini and Gardens gio Welby wrote to the president in Autumn by acclaimed Geor- would represent the ‘nerve centre for can accord has already passed the any emergency war activities any- fi nal approval stage with the assent saying that he wanted the right gian moviemaker Otar Iosseliani. to die in dignity, and that Italians where in the Middle East, Iraq and of local authorities in Vicenza. But the competition almost risks should have the same access to taking a back seat to the numer- euthanasia as do ‘the Swiss, Bel- ous fi lm premieres, screenings, gians and the Dutch.’ exhibitions, book presentations But Napolitano’s call caused a and other events that have been predictable split among lawmak- planned to fi ll out the festival. Plugging up ers, many of whom are Catholics Nicole Kidman has been and follow the Church’s teaching signed up to open the event that life should end at the moment with the world premiere of her the leaks of natural death. According to sta- fi lm Fur, based on the life of Government takes tistics provided by the anti-cleri- photographer Diane Arbus and cal Radical party, 58 percent of directed by Steven Shainberg. stand against Italians support mercy killing. As Another screen beauty, Italy’s it stands, euthanasia is illegal in Monica Bellucci, will be present illegal wire taps Italy, as it is in most countries, and for the premiere of N: Napoleon doctors who perform it face up and Me, by Paolo Virzi, which is he government has recently spying described by newspapers. A to 15 years in jail. Cardinal Javier set on the island of Elba during approved an emergency group connected to a former Tele- Lozano Barragan, who acts as the Napoleon’s exile. decree aimed at preventing com Italia executive has, accord- Vatican’s health minister, sought Other major premieres include T the use and publication of illegal ing to investigators, assembled a to squash the issue by saying Martin Scorsese’s The Departed, phone taps reportedly carried out on massive archive of classifi ed data that ‘for the Church, euthanasia a remake of a Hong Kong crime thousands of Italians. In an unusual on politicians, business leaders and amounts to murder, it’s as simple thriller starring Jack Nicholson, display of political unity, the centre- ordinary Italians. Some 21 suspects, as that, and therefore, it can never Leonardo DiCaprio and Matt right opposition said it backed the including Telecom’s former security be allowed. Catholic parliamentar- Damon; the noirish La Scon- measure and was ready to convert chief and its parent company’s pres- ians must act with consistency.’ osciuta by Italian Oscar-winner it into law quickly in parliament. ent security chief, were arrested last Politicians on both sides of Giuseppe Tornatore; and The The decree was a response to an week in connection with the probe the political divide echoed the Namesake, a tale of immigration unfolding scandal focusing on a into illegal data gathering. Investi- Church’s line. Culture Minister by internationally feted Indian massive spying operation uncovered gators say part of the information Francesco Rutelli, a member of the director Mira Nair. by Milanese prosecutors this week. came from illegally tapped phone centre-left Catholic Daisy party, Under the new rules, it will be an conversations and part through said that ‘we are against eutha- offence to hold any record of illegal unauthorised access to police and nasia—the centre—left is against phone taps, and such material must government databases. euthanasia.’ But the minister also be immediately destroyed. There is Details of the operation are still said it was ‘absurd’ to transfer a also a ban on publishing them, with hazy, but politicians across the ‘purely medical, human, scientifi c fi nes for offending newspapers, and board have expressed concern over debate’ to the political arena. Forza a provision making them unusable the amount of information believed Italia, the party of opposition chief ������������������� in court. to have been amassed. ‘We want to and former premier Silvio Berlus- ‘The objective is to at least stop ensure that no wave of blackmail coni, said that opening a political the rot from spreading,’ said Pre- can begin. That would make the debate on the issue would mean mier Romano Prodi, who expressed attack on democracy even more seri- ‘splitting the country in two with- astonishment at the scale of the ous,’ Prodi said. out obtaining any positive results.’� ������������������ 7 www.thefl orentine.net Sports Thursday 5 October 2006 Sports NEWS

Formula 1: Sports in BRIEF SERIE A Results 01-11 Round 5 TENNIS ATP sat Atalanta Reggina 1-1 Volandri takes the clay sat Torino Lazio 0-4 Oldest but Italian second seed Filippo Volan- dri beat Ecuador’s Nicolas Lap- sun Cagliari Inter 1-1 entti 5-7, 6-1, 6-3 in the fi nals of sun Fiorentina Catania 3-0 not slowest the Palermo ATP event on Sun- sun Messina Livorno 0-1 day. The 25-year-old Italian over- sun Milan Siena 0-0 ichael Schumacher has came a sluggish start and went proven that he can retire on to claim the second title of sun Roma Empoli 1-0 Mfrom Formula One with a his career in two hours and 15 sun Sampdoria Parma 3-2 smile on his face and loads of fi ne minutes in the Sicilian capital. In sun Udinese Ascoli 0-0 memories in his pockets. After deliv- winning the title, Volandri became sun Chievo Palermo 0-1 ering a classic victory in the Chinese the fi rst Italian to win the clay Grand Prix, he looked anything but tournament since 1984 when a 37-year-old veteran on the verge Francesco Cancellotti triumphed. Standings of departing from the stage he has Volandri said winning the title on SERIE A dominated for the last 12 years. By home soil made his victory extra the way he danced on the victors’ Ferrari mechanic made a clean catch special. team points team points podium, where he was joined by and revelled in the moment with a his Ferrari race engineer Australian Schumacher-esque display of cel- FOOTBALL SERIES B Roma 12 Catania 5 Chris Dyer, it was easy to think he ebration with his undamaged bottle. Trezeguet lifts ‘old lady’ Palermo 12 Milan 3 was years younger than his rivals, Schumacher’s victory was the 91st of France international David Trezeg- Inter 11 Cagliari 3 not a decade older. The seven-time his career, his seventh this year and uet scored twice as Juventus won Udinese 8 Ascoli 3 world champion put on a virtuoso his fi rst in China. 2-0 at Piacenza on Saturday, Messina 8 Torino 2 achieving their fourth straight vic- display in Sunday’s thrilling contest. This victory put him ahead in the Empoli 8 Chievo 1 Despite treacherous mixed wet-and- drivers’ championship for the fi rst tory in Series B. The fallen Turin giants have been demoted to Siena 8 Parma 1 dry conditions, he climbed back on time since he won the 2004 driv- Livorno 8 Lazio -2 top of the drivers’ world champion- ers’ title. Schumacher, who was 25 Italy’s second division and have been forced to start with minus Atalanta 6 Reggina -10 ship and left most commentators points behind Alonso after the Cana- 17 points for match-fi xing. Thanks scrambling for superlatives. dian Grand Prix in June, admitted Sampdoria 6 Fiorentina -13 to their latest win Juventus has Fans found a forlorn and defeated he would have settled for a place on dropped just two points from their Alonso, who had started on pole and the podium in a damage limitation fi ve matches played. initially led for 30 laps; he ended up exercise. He was, after all, the only Round 6 15 / 10 2006 fi nishing second. Tyre wear forced driver on Bridgestone tyres to qual- Alonso to pit for a set of new front ify for the top ten list dominated by date hrs home team opponent tyres just as he had achieved a com- Michelin-clad cars. But in a stunning manding lead of nearly 20 seconds. performance, he made nonsense of Football EURO 2008 sun 15,00 Ascoli Livorno When he rejoined the race, his car all the experts’ predictions and gave sun 15,00 Empoli Fiorentina had lost its superior handling. The full vent to his unique racing talents. sun 15,00 Inter Catania worst was yet to come—almost—for In the seven races since the Montreal Cup winners Lazio Cagliari Renault when Alonso, in the midst contest, he has won fi ve and Ferrari sun 15,00 of podium frolics, tossed his bottle has taken six victories. ‘I am the old- sun 15,00 Palermo Atalanta of champagne towards his team’s est driver in the fi eld and I can live recalled for sun 15,00 Parma Udinese mechanics and it fell to the ground quite well with that,’ said Schum- sun 15,00 Reggina Roma and smashed. When Schumacher did acher. ‘It doesn’t bother me because, the crunch sun 15,00 Sampdoria Milan the same, just a few seconds later, a fortunately, I’m not the slowest!’ trikers Alessandro Del Piero, sun 15,00 Siena Messina SLuca Toni and Vincenzo Iaquinta sun 15,00 Torino Chievo all won recalls when Italy coach Football Series A Roberto Donadoni named his squad on Sunday for the Euro 2008 qualifi - Round 7 22 / 10 2006 ers against Ukraine and Georgia. The Two teams at top spot world champions, who have taken date hrs home team opponent Vincenzo Montella Marco Bresciano just one point from their fi rst two had hoped to lift some of the gloom Group B matches, will face Ukraine sun 15,00 Atalanta Sampdoria hanging over them after back-to- in the capital next Saturday before sun 15,00 Cagliari Torino back Champions League defeats. taking on Georgia in Tbilisi on the sun 15.00 Catania Lazio following Wednesday. Juventus’ Del But poor results against a team with- sun 15.00 Fiorentina Reggina out a win did little to improve their Piero, Fiorentina’s Toni and Iaquinta mood and will inevitably increase of Udinese - all members of Marcello sun 15.00 Livorno Siena the pressure on coach Roberto Lippi’s World Cup winning squad - sun 15.00 Messina Empoli Mancini, whose team is expected to were left out by Donadoni during the sun 15.00 Milan Palermo stroll toward the Scudetto following matches against Lithuania and France sun 15.00 Parma Ascoli due to a lack of fi tness. Inter Milan Juventus’ relegation and AC Milan’s sun 15.00 Roma Chievo points handicap due to match-fi x- defender Marco Materazzi returns oma and Palermo claimed ing. AC Milan, who started at minus after completing the two-match sus- sun 20.30 Udinese Inter hard-fought 1-0 wins on Sun- eight points, climbed into positive pension he was given for provoking Rday and went on to share top territory after winning their fi rst Zinedine Zidane in the World Cup Top Scorers spot in Italy’s Serie A. Vincenzo three matches. The team achieved fi nal. There is no room in the 23-man Montella’s goal in the fi rst half sealed their second consecutive 0-0 draw squad for Real Madrid striker Anto- player team goals Roma’s slender victory against Emp- against Siena. Fiorentina, stung by nio Cassano, who impressed every- 1. Bianchi Reggina 4 oli at their Olympic stadium home, a minus 19-point start for rigging one in the match against Lithuania 2. Toni Fiorentina 3 while Eugenio Corini was Palermo’s matches, thrashed Catania 3-0, but was disappointing against the 3. Riganò Messina 3 match-winner at Chievo. A fourth while Livorno sneaked a 1-0 victory French. In-form midfi elders Genn- 4. Corini Palermo 3 win out of fi ve matches lifted both at Messina. Sampdoria ended a run aro Delvecchio and Stefano Mauri, 5. Crespo Inter 3 clubs to the top of the table, one step of three straight draws with a 3-2 of Sampdoria and Lazio respectively, 6. Oddo Lazio 3 ahead of title favourites Inter who win at home against Parma while have both been rewarded with call- could only manage a 1-1 draw at the Udinese match against Ascoli ups for their excellent early season Cagliari. Reigning champions Inter ended goalless. performances. FORZA VIOLA!!! 8 Thursday 5 October 2006 www.thefl orentine.net Movie REVIEWS

Movies in English showing in Florence by James Douglas Weeks October 5 - October 19 2006

Thursday October 5 Thursday October 12 Monday October 16 Wednesday October 18 ODEON THEATRE ODEON THEATRE ODEON THEATRE BRITISH INSTITUTE

THE BREAK-UP THE QUEEN MIAMI VICE CAT ON A HOT TIN ROOF This prize-winning fi lm (Helen Mirren’s Elizabeth Taylor is teamed with Paul performance as Queen Elizabeth II won Newman in Richard Brooks’ adapta- Best Actress at the Venice Film Festival) tion of Tennessee Williams’ play in Cat is unusual in that it is essentially a biopic on a Hot Tin Roof (1958). She plays featuring a still-living, widely-known, Maggie the Cat, long-suffering wife of much-respected, and perhaps much- Brick Pollitt (Paul Newman) alcoholic Real life partners (at the time of going misunderstood person. To attempt a Miami Vice Squad Detectives Crockett ex-football player who doesn’t want to to press) Jennifer Aniston and Vince portrayal is in itself a risky endeavour, and Tubbs get a makeover in Michael perform his conjugal duties. Taylor is, Vaughn star in the self-styled ‘anti- but Steven Frears’ winning fi lm The Mann’s contemporary update of the as ever, stunning as the spurned wife romantic comedy’ The Break Up, a Queen, and above all Helen Mirren’s 1980s TV series (for which Mann in a dysfunctional family, which leaves mostly tedious chronicle of the relent- convincing performance, overcome wrote an episode). Colin Farrell and the movie with the task of explain- less bickering of the mismatched pair such reservations. Focusing on the Jamie Foxx, respectively, are involved in ing Brick’s indifference. It does so in as their relationship disintegrates in events surrounding the shocking death a complex undercover operation amidst a manner different from the play. An a fl urry of stereotypical gender differ- of Princess Diana in 1997, the movie a South Florida drug traffi cking cartel, excellent theatrical cast complements ences. More painful drama than fl uffy takes a behind-the-scenes look at the further complicated by their emotional Taylor’s ‘terrifi c’ (New York Times) per- rom-com, certainly, but in pitting the personal and political dimensions of involvement with elements of the crimi- formance. likeable slob (male) against the ball- that death, its impact on the royal family, nal underworld best managed with breaking feng shui enthusiast (female), and the government headed by newly- professional detachment. But it’s not the movie falls between the two camps installed Prime Minister Tony Blair. Peter easy to stay cool in the presence of the Thursday October 19 it targets and loses its appeal to either. Morgan’s script is a key contribution to ravishing Isabella (Gong Li). Michael Does anyone really care whether they what many consider one of the fi nest Mann’s characteristic stylishness and ODEON THEATRE live happily ever after? British fi lms of recent years. energy confi rm his status as one the hottest ‘new’ directors (his incandes- LADY IN THE WATER cent Heat and unforgiving Collateral Monday October 9 & Tuesday October 10 were universally acclaimed) although Miami Vice suffers a little for its lack of ODEON THEATRE originality and routineness of plot. SCOOP This is Woody Allen’s 41st movie, and if Match Point proved that the master had Tuesday October 17 found his touch again after losing his way a little, Scoop shows that the return to form was, sadly, fl eeting. In the second of his London fi lms, Allen rehashes the ODEON THEATRE formula that worked well in the previous movie, adds a supernatural element and a clumsy allusion to An American Tragedy (and George Stevens’ movie from that WORLD TRADE CENTER novel, A Place in the Sun). The result is a geeky but sensually sumptuous Scarlett The formula is familiar: use the micro- Johannson as the delightfully named Sondra Pransky, American ingénue abroad cosm of a believably gritty human inter- teaming up with (thankfully, without groping) the decidedly aged Allen as the magi- est story to illuminate and make more Flash-in-the-pan wonder-boy director cian, to land her cub reporter’s dream scoop. Hugh Jackman, as ever, provides a credible the wider picture of an almost M Night Shyamalan (The Sixth Sense, touch of class. Amusing but trivial Allen. unimaginable and incomprehensible Unbreakable, Signs and The Village) atrocity (Spielberg did it in Schin- fi nds continued success maddeningly Wednesday October 11 dler’s List). So it is that Oliver Stone’s elusive in his latest offering Lady in fi lm about 9/11, World Trade Center, the Water. Essentially an exploration of BRITISH INSTITUTE focuses on two New York Port Author- supernatural intrusions into the com- ity offi cials trapped underground in the fortable reality of middle class life, or IVANHOE rubble of the collapsed buildings in a in other words how fairy stories weave claustrophobic life or death struggle. themselves in and out of our conscious- The Taylor-Burton season continues with this medieval costume epic adapted Not necessarily a comfortable movie nesses, Night’s movie continues his (loosely) from the novel by Sir Walter Scott in which Elizabeth Taylor plays experience, nor particularly inspired self-indulgent and deliberately arcane Rebecca, the outcast Jewish girl. Ivanhoe (1952) is a typical MGM action-packed or inspiring—Peter Bradshaw in The personal mythologizing. With Grimm-like swashbuckler of a movie, with Taylor caught in the middle of 12th-century jousts Guardian calls it ‘a big, wilfully dumb, intensity, he takes us into his contrived and battles between Normans and Saxons. Even Robin Hood (as Locksley) makes reactionary clunker of a movie’—per- world of water creatures and their antag- an appearance. Taylor, just twenty years old, is ‘eerily beautiful’ (Pauline Kael) and haps the event itself is too big to man- onists, but it is a vision that increasingly steals the show from the normally dazzling Joan Fontaine as Rowena, Ivanhoe’s age effectively and too real to sustain palls and the story fails to maintain inter- other love interest. Not a great fi lm by modern standards, but an entertaining and this fi ctionalisation. est. Must do better next time. interesting transitional performance from Taylor, who was soon to hit the big time with solid contemporary roles. 9 www.thefl orentine.net What’s on & Where to Go Thursday 5 October 2006

Events in FLORENCE OCT 6 TO OCT 19

mbership card necessary FRIDAY 6 SUNDAY 8 n MUSIC & CONCERTS n MARKETS & FESTIVALS OUR TOP PICKS The Barber of Seville Festa di Santa Reparata t t t opera by Rossini. visits to the Archeology Museum Maggio Musicale , Orchestra conducted by Duomo, h 11.30, free guided tours, Book at Roberto Abbado. Teatro Comunale, 055 2616051www.comune.fi .it

THE CHESTNUT MONTH – October Via Solferino 15, info 055 27791, 20,30 Things from the past October is chestnut month and small towns all over Tuscany are gearing up to celebrate Chicago Underground Duo Oct 8, Piazza Acciaiuoli Piazza Acciaiuoli , this ‘poor man’s meals that has become a true delicacy for city and country folk alike. The jazz Galluzzo , Florence , all day Mugello area is particularly intent on honouring i marroni. See www.mugellotoscana.it Sala Vanni, piazza del carmine 14, info Santo Spirito Fair for a complete list of chestnut related events. In most town squares citizens will serve up 055.287347 www.musicusconcentus.com, roasted chestnuts, sweet fritters, chestnut jam, and chocolate, chestnut fl an with pine nuts, Piazza Santo Spirito, Open 9,00-19,00 and of course, castagnaccio. 12 €, h. 21.15 Acoustic Africa n MUSIC & CONCERTS Music The Barber of Seville SANTA REPARATA’S DAY – October 7 to 9 Oct. 6, Auditorium Flog via Michele Mercati, see October 6 Santa Reparata was Florence’s ancient cathedral built on the site where Santa Maria del 24b info 055-4220300 FLORENCE CHAMBER ORCHESTRA Fiore is located today. Thanks to archaeological digs carried out from 1971 to 1972 experts www.musicadeipopoli.com Conducted by Giuseppe Lanzetta with so- have been able to reconstruct the original fl oor plan. It is now possible to visit the digs www.fl og.it, 13 € from the navata of the Duomo. On October 7-9, enjoy guided visits of ‘Roman Florence’ loist Ilja Grubert (violin). Music of Mozart. or attend a conference called ‘Roman Florence in the fi rst centuries of the Christian era.’ Saxophonia Classica d’Autunno Church of Orsanmichele, via Calzaivoli, tel. A historical parade honouring the Florentine Republic will be followed by a ceremony in performers: Saxophonia, Trio Mistral, Quar- 055.783374, www.orcafi .it h 21,00 Santa Reparata’s Crypt. tetto Arabesque, Quartetto Vessaexophes, PIANO RECITAL organizer: Scuola di Musica di Fiesole, mu- by András Schiff. Music of Beethoven. sic: T. Susato, W. A. Mozart, S.Joplin, G. BOCCACCESCA – October 6-7-8 and 13-14-15 Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola Bizet, A. Piazzola 12/32, info 055 2479651 VIII Edition of Certaldo’s food and art festival Oct 6, Puccini Theatre, via delle Cascine, www.amicimusica.fi .it, h 21,00 See front page or www.boccaccesca.it info 055-597851 www.scuolamusica.fi esole.fi .it, Ligabue www.teatropuccini.it ; h 21.00 see October 7 MUSICA DEI POPOLI – October 6 to November 21 9th Quartet European Academy ‘Musica dei popoli’ is a historical festival in Florence. After 30 years of music from n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Oct 8, Academy Gallery, Via Ricasoli, 60, around the globe, it has become an essential part of the Florentine music scene. With its Camera Doppia Tribuna del David, info 055-597851, series of traditional folk concerts, it introduces participants to a ‘new universe of music’ BAD&BREAKFAST in a musical perfor- www.scuolamusica.fi esole.fi .it, 21.00 that goes beyond the concept of classical music, jazz and Anglo-American rock and pop. mance It’s a chance to enjoy African, Asian, Latin American and European sounds, as each Stagione Concertistica 2006 ‘Careggi concert represents a ‘journey’ within a different ‘exotic’ culture. During ‘Musica dei popoli’, Teatro del Sale, Via dei Macci 111r, tel. in musica‘ - VIII edizione musicians, singers and dancers from every corner of the world represent the ancestral 055.2001492, www.teatrodelsale.com, October 8, 15,Auditorium di Clinica medica relationship between man and music. Festival performers include: Habib Koite’ (Mali) 19.00 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24, member- di Careggi, viale Morgagni - tel. 055580996 Acoustic Africa Con Dobet Gnahoré (Ivory Coast), Vusi Mahlasela (South Africa), Urna ship mandatory - www.agimusfi renze.it (Mongolia), Trio Chemirani (Iran), Aramire’ (Italy) - Cantori Di Carpino (Italia) Petrona Martinez (Colombia), Mimmo Cuticchio e l’opera Dei Pupi (Italy) and Dee Dee “An Evening of Swingin’ Jazz, and Go- Bridgwater (Usa).Auditorium Flog SATURDAY 7 spel” via Michele Mercati, 24b A DaSilva Production, Featuring “The Cot- For more information call 055-4220300 or visit www.musicadeipopoli.com n GUIDED TOURS ton Olives!” Along with Our very own Mu- sicians coming together from St. James An Invitation to the Palace - 5th ed. Church!!! INTERCITY TORONTO Free admission and guided visits of some Teatro del Sale, Via dei Macci 111r, tel. International Contemporary Drama Festival - September 29 - October 31 of the most prestigious historical seats of 055.2001492, www.teatrodelsale.com, city Banks. Promoted by ABI (Associazio- 19.00 buffet, 21.30 show, € 24, The Intercity Festival, which runs for three days includes two or three productions from ne Banche Italiane – Italian Banks Asso- membership mandatory contemporary scripts: the new Brendan Gall piece represented for the fi rst time worldwide ciation). with director David Ferry, the well-known director Jillian Keiley will appear behind the Oct 7, Various locations in Tuscany, see n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES scenes of a new piece performed by Teatro Studio (Scandicci). From Toronto, the Wyrd complete list of sites www.abi.it/ Productions and Necessary Angel Theatre Company with two great artists like Rick Miller Cantagallo - Rifugio di Cave and Daniel Brooks will perform together for the fi rst time in Italy, while the dancer Peter Trekking Bingham will dance with Company Blu Danza (‘Danze d’Inverno’). The ‘Back to the past’ n MARKETS & FESTIVALS Oct 8, Railway Station of Santa Maria No- section will be dedicated to Montreal while the ‘Back to the future’ to Balcans – is a new vella, Piazza Santa Maria Novella, informa- project by Branko Brezovec with Laboratorio Nove. Festa di Santa Reparata tion: 055-2767816 / 2341040 The festival also includes readings and encounters with authors, cinematographic and visits to the Crypt of Santa Reparata benea- www.comune.fi .it, meeting h.8.15 photographic exhibitions (dedicated to Robert Lepade, a great contemporary Canadian th the Duomo artist and Ex Machina, his company), performances and theory-practice seminars. Since Duomo, h 11.30, free guided tours, Book at Una città da giocare 1992, Intercity has added to the productions a series of mises en espace. This year they 055 2616050 www.comune.fi .it For Children - games, music, sport, anima- will be in English (Judith Thompson, Brandan Gall, Antonio Salvatore, Jillian Keiley, tion, creativity Rick Miller, Daniel Brooks) and in French (Wajdi Mouawad and Larry Tremblay). All n MUSIC & CONCERTS October 8 from 10a.m. to 6p.m. Giardini the scripts (8.500 ca.) collected for the festival are available in the theater’s library; Scuola Don Milani - Info Q.2 - they are organized by country and constantly updated. For more information see www. The Barber of Seville teatrodellalimonaia.it. By Laura De Benedetto see October 6 tel. 0552767822 - www.comune.fi .it Ligabue Flat racing (Trotto) Nome e Cognome Tour Ippodromo Le Mulina - tel. 0554226076 - Teatro Verdi, via Ghibellina 99, www.ippocity.com tel. 055.212320, www.teatroverdifi renze.it, box offi ce MONDAY 9 n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Florence Basket Firenze - Madonna n CINEMA Alta Perugina Scoop Campionato Nazionale Femminile di serie Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. B Eccellenza Girone C of basketball 2006- 055.214068, www.cinehall.it, 4.00 – 6.10 ����������������� 2007. – 8.20 – 10.30 pm October 7, Palazzetto San Marcellino, via ������������������������������ Chiantigiana, 28, h 18.45 n MARKETS & FESTIVALS Fiorentina Basket - Cus Siena Festa di Santa Reparata Campionato Nazionale Maschile di serie C Procession of the Florentine Republic with ������ ������ Girone E di Basketball 2006-2007 offerings in the Duomo h 17 Corteo, 17.50 Offer in the Cathedral, ������������������������������ ���������������������������������� October 7, PalaEverlast, via De’ Robertis – Firenze, 18.30 info 055 2616050 www.comune.fi .it n MUSIC & CONCERTS ����������������������������� ����������������������������� n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Camera Doppia FLORENCE CHAMBER ORCHESTRA ������������������� ������������������ see October 6 See October 8 ���������������� ������������� ��������������� ����������������������� 10 Thursday 5 October 2006 What’s on & Where to Go www.thefl orentine.net

Events in FLORENCE OCT 6 TO OCT 19

tel. 055.214068, www.cinehall.it, n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES n MUSIC & CONCERTS TUESDAY 10 4.00 – 6.10 – 8.20 – 10.30 pm PF Volley Firenze - Emec srl Montale Project Shostakovich - concert: Prelu- n CINEMA n MARKETS & FESTIVALS MO di e fughe Flower Market Campionato Nazionale Femminile di serie October 18, Auditorium al Duomo Scoop via pellicceria, morning only B2 Girone E di Volleball 2006-2007 via Cerretani 54r - tel. 0552381752 See October 9 October 14 Palestra Paganelli, viale Guido- www.nuovieventimusicali.org n MUSIC & CONCERTS ni, 142 - Firenze h 18.00 n DANCE The Barber of Seville n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Inanna see October 6 RN Florentia - Fiorentina WP & Certal- Choreography by Carolyn Carlson,with 7 do LA BOHEME SUNDAY 15 dancers from the Centre Choreographique water polo special performances of Puccinis LA National of Roubaix Oct. 18, Piscina Nannini, Via di Bellariva, BOHEME, with Thomas Praestegaard as n MARKETS & FESTIVALS Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola info 055-6812141, Rodolfo, Katarzyna Mizerny as Mimi, Lin- FIERUCOLINA 12/32, info 055 2479651 www.rarinantesfl orentia.it www.pergola.fi renze.it, h 21,00 dsay Feldmeth as Musetta, Tsutomu Kon Piazza Santo Spirito, Open 9,00-19,00 as Marcello and Father Lawrence Maclean Rionalissima n GUIDED TOURS (!) as narrator, explaining the story for fo- Market at Campo di Marte THURSDAY 19 Il Loggiato dei Serviti reigners. campo di Marte, info 055 3283550 October 12th, 15th, 19th and 22nd; En- Oct. 10, Piazza SS. Annunziata info Cronomania glish Church of St.Mark’s, Via Maggio 18, n CINEMA 055-461428 Watch market info 3408119192 www.concertoclassico. Lady in the Water it.geocities.com/associazione_akropolis/ Sesto Fiorentino, Firenze, Novotel Firenze info always at 21.15 p.m, Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, Nord, info 336 524599 www.cronomania.it n LECTURES & CONFERENCES Entrance:15 Euros for Florentine readers tel. 055.214068, www.cinehall.it, 4.00 Screening of the documentary by Cin- instead of 19 Euros (bring yr copy) n MUSIC & CONCERTS – 6.10 – 8.20 – 10.30 pm zia TH Torrini “L’ultimo Caronte” n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Talibam n DANCE 40th Anniversary of Florence Flood Ambasciata di Marte, via Mannelli 2, tel. Flat racing (Trotto) DEDICATO A GENIA Nave a Rovezzano, Via Villamagna, 111 Fi- 055.6550786, www.ambasciatadimarte. See October 8 See October 18 renze, date description: (Ott. 3, 10, 21 and org., 22.30, free 28 ott, Nov. 4) info 055-2767739 www. n GUIDED TOURS comune.fi .it Friendly in Florence: 6th Concert by FRIDAY 13 Filarmonica of Florence ‘G.Rossini‘ in An afternoon of discovering the city The scents and fl avours of mu- honour of Associazione Amici dei Mu- Oct. 19 Florence info 055-461428 shrooms n CINEMA sei it.geocities.com/associazione_akropolis, Conference conducted in Italian October 15 at 4pm. Chiostro S.Maria de- 12 euro La Notte dei Pubblivori Oct. 10, Villa Pozzolini, Sala Archi, Viale gli Angeli, via Alfani 39 - tel. 055603407 500 clips of International advertising spots Guidoni, 188, Booking required, info 055- - www.fi larmonicarossini.it n LECTURES & CONFERENCES 2767045 www.comune.fi .it, 21.15 (480 will be premiered this evening) Stagione Concertistica 2006 ‘Careggi An evening with Alexander McCall Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. Smith. n MARKETS & FESTIVALS 055.214068, www.lanottedeipubblivori.it, in musica‘ - VIII edizione See October 8 Alexander McCall Smith, creator of the Cascine Market H 21.00 internationally acclaimed No 1 Ladies’ De- Cascine Park , Cascine, morning only n LECTURES & CONFERENCES LA BOHEME tective Agency, will speak about his dual See October 12 careers as Professor of Medical Law at the n MUSIC & CONCERTS Talk show about “Bis-Arno; Resource University of Edinburgh and as a best-sel- or Risk?” by Prof. Rombai (in Italian) n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES The Barber of Seville ling author. 40th Anniversary of Flood see October 6 Cus Firenze Giunti - Rugby F.C. Segni October 19 at 18.00 at The British Institute October 13, 20, Sala Paradiso di Villa Ban- Rugby of Florence, Lungarno Guicciardini 9, tel. dini - info tel. 0556585128 October 15, Campo Padovani Viale Pa- 055 26778270, h 18.00, admission free WEDNESDAY 11 www.comune.fi .it squale Paoli, 21 , Campo di Marte, info On occasion of the Food World Day 055-573821 www.cusfi renzerugby.it/ n MARKETS & FESTIVALS n DANCE “Fame e spreco alimentare. Trasfor- Flat racing (Trotto) Flower Market Inanna mare le eccedenze in risorse a fi ni See October 8 via pellicceria, morning only See October 10 solidali: il caso Last Minute Market” - conference n MUSIC & CONCERTS n LECTURES & CONFERENCES in Italian MONDAY 16 LA BOHEME Meet author Christobel Kent October 16 at 3.30pm., Accademia dei See October 12 presents her new book “A Florentine Re- Georgofi li - tel. 055213360 n CINEMA Millfi eld Chamber Choir venge” Miami Vice Chiesa SS Annunziata di Firenze, 21.00 McRae Books, Via dei Neri 32/r. info n MUSIC & CONCERTS Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, 055.2382456. [email protected], The Barber of Seville tel. 055.214068, www.cinehall.it n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES h. 18,00 see October 7 3.00 – 5.30 – 8.00 – 10.30 pm Flat racing (Trotto) Candida Cave: The struggle for power ken vandermark See October 8 in Florence in the 1490s jazz, rock and pop reinterpretated n MUSIC & CONCERTS Candida Cave,is the author of several Sala Vanni, piazza del carmine 14, info Musical Wednesdays by Ente Cassa di plays. Her latest play, to be performed on 055.287347 www.musicusconcentus.com, Risparmio di Firenze - concerts ON GOING 22 November, deals with the bitter and 12€, 21.15 October 16, Auditorium Ente Cassa di Ri- exciting struggle for power in late-15th- Costante Cambiamento sparmio di Firenze, via Folco Portinari 5/r n CINEMA century Florence. organized by Omfrhida Teatrodanza - tel. 05526121 The Magic Prisma - Cinema and Wo- October 11 at 18.00 at The British Institute info 055.2340231 men of Florence, Lungarno Guicciardini 9, tel. www.costantecambiamento.it 40 fi lms from India, Palestine, Usa, Spain, 055 26778270, 18.00, admission free TUESDAY 17 France, Uk, Italy, Niger, Mali, Senegal, Ca- n MUSIC & CONCERTS meroon; Tunisia etc. SATURDAY 14 n CINEMA October 17 to 22, Cinema Alfi eri and Ci- The Barber of Seville World Trade Center nema Gambrinus, info 055 4288054, for see October 6 n GUIDED TOURS Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. complete programma see Blind Guardian The House and Studio of Piero Bargel- 055.214068 - www.cinehall.it www.laboratorioimmaginedonna.it Saschall, Lungarno Aldo Moro 3, tel. lini 3.30 – 5.50 – 8.10 – 10.30 pm n COMPETITION 055.6504112, www.saschall.it Oct 14, Via delle Pinzochere 1ª Ed Concorso Open entry for screen- n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES info 055-461428 n it.geocities.com/associazione_akropolis MARKETS & FESTIVALS plays RN Florentia - Chiavari Nuoto Cascine Market Organized by the Festival della Creatività water polo n MUSIC & CONCERTS Cascine Park , Cascine, morning only and the Toscana Film Commission Oct. 11, Piscina Nannini, Via di Bellariva, The Barber of Seville until 31 october, info 055-271991 Festival info 055-6812141 see October 7 della Creatività And Toscana Film Commis- www.rarinantesfl orentia.it sion www.festivaldellacreativita.it ORCHESTRA DES CHAMPS ELYSEES WEDNESDAY 18 Conducted by Philippe Herreweghe with n DANCE n EXHIBITS soloist Christian Tetzlaff (violin). Music of Moda e Stile THURSDAY 12 DEDICATO A GENIA Beethoven and Schubert. Hidden wealth. An artistic collection of the performed by Maggio Danza, choreography Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola Hospital of Santa Maria Nuova n CINEMA by Evgheni Polyakov 12/32, info 055 2479651 Until May 2008 Palazzo Pitti, Galleria del The Queen October 18 Teatro Goldoni, Via Santa Ma- www.amicimusica.fi .it, h 21,00 Costume - tel. 0552388713 Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, ria 15, tel. 055.2335518, 8:30 pm. 11 www.thefl orentine.net What’s on & Where to Go Thursday 5 October 2006

Events in FLORENCE OCT 6 TO OCT 19

Painting and photographic exhibitions Arte e Manifattura di corte a Firenze. www.cultura.toscana.it/ n LECTURES & CONFERENCES at Villa Pozzolini (Firenzestate 06) From the fall of the Medici empire Eros-Thanatos-Perasma Diet and Health from June 3 to October 8 Villa Pozzolini, via- (1732-1815) photos by Berangere Haegy Conferences conducted by Dott. Gianni le Guidoni 188 - tel. 0552767045 - www. Until November 5, Palazzo Pitti Untill Jan 7, Istituto Francese, Piazza Ognis- Zocchi. (in Italian) comune.fi .it piazza Pitti 1, tel. 055.294883 santi 2, info 055 2718801 Oct 4 to 18 Wednesday Villa Arrivabene, Steven Klein. Case study # 13 Valley of www.artedicorteafi renze2006.it www.istitutofrancese.it, free admission Piazza Alberti, 1/a free, 21:00 the Dolls The Mind of Leonardo. Universal Ge- Luca Viviani Info 055-2767831 www.comune.fi .it/ from June 22 to October 30 Gallery Hotel nius at Work Sculptures & Drawings Galileo Planet Art - Vicolo dell’Oro - tel. 05527263 Until January 7, 2007, 8.15-19.00, Tues-Sun, Oct 12 to 27, Saci Gallery Via Sant’Antoni- Meetings, guided visits, debates Passion for Life Galleria degli Uffi zi, Piazzale degli Uffi zi no 11 info 055-289948 Oct. 16 to Nov. 11, in various locations of Event/exhibition planned by the Canadian tel. 055.2388651, www.uffi zi.fi renze.it www.saci-fl orence.org Tuscany. Info 800-401291 artist Antoine Gaber (benefi t for the Meyer A Grand Duke and his painter.. Cosimo Tele e Computer www.pianetagalileo.it Pediatric hospital of Florence III de’ Medici and the ‘room of paintin- untill Nov 2, amplifi cazioni visive, Fiesole, www.consiglio.regione.toscana.it/news-ed- until October 15 Chiostro del Museo Dioce- gs’ by Giusto Suttermans Basilica di Sant’alessandro, eventi/pianeta-galileo/default.asp sano, piazza S.Stefano 5, info 0552710732 Until October 22, Sala Bianca info 055 59080, h 15-18 www.museodiocesanofi renze.org Galleria Palatina, Palazzo Pitti n MARKETS & FESTIVALS Mostra Internazionale di Arte Tessile Leonardo: The Lake That Never Was’ www.polomuseale.fi renze.it Antiquari di Firenze info 055-2654321 ispirata alla ‘ Coperta Guicciardini’ Sculptures by Andrea Dami October from 14 to 29, Salone Brunelleschi, market exhibition from 7 Sept to 7 Oct at SACI Gallery - Pa- Copti Fabrics From Egyptian Museum Spedale degli Innocenti - tel. 0552345257 from September 29 to October 8 lazzo dei Cartelloni, via Sant’Antonino 11 - of Firenze www.ilclubdelpuntoincroce.com Piazza Ognissanti info 055282635 tel. 055289948 - www.saci-fl orence.org Until October 22, Museo Casa Siviero, Lun- Mercato San Lorenzo garno Serristori 3 International Exhibition of Textile Art 40° Anniversary of the Florence Flood inspired by the Guicciardini Quilt Florentine crafts, hand-made embroidery, see list of events at www.comune.fi .it www.cultura.toscana.it/musei/primo_piano/ paper, leather etc siviero.html, info 055.2345219 Oct. 14 to 29, Brunelleschi Hall - Istituto from Sept 9 to Dec 14, the Assessorato alla degli Innocenti, Piazza SS.Annunziata, info Streets around Basilica San Lorenzo Partecipazione Democratica e ai Rapporti Prebarocco 055-2345257, 10:00-12:30 and 15:30- every day, all day with Quartieri, Assessorato alla Cultura e Paintings of Fabrizio Boschi (1572-1642) 19:30; Sat and Sun 10:00-19:30 Ciompi Antique fair dai Consigli dei Quartieri 1, 2, 3, 4 e 5 or- Until Nov.13th, Casa Buonarroti via Ghibel- www.ilclubdelpuntoincroce.com Piazza de’ Ciompi, tel. 055.3283550, every ganize a serie of Exhibitions, Conferences, lina 70, www.casabuonarroti.it, www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it week day and last Sunday of the month photo events, etc. info 055-27681 info 055 241752, h. 9,30 to 16,00 “Sulle rive dell’Arno” photographic Mercato del Porcellino LUNARIS, recherche du temps perdu, Apoxyomenos, l’Atleta della Croazia - exhibition by the photo Group “Il Gril- Florentine crafts with straw, hand-made em- Anna Vestri collection. exhibition lo” broidery, leather, woodwork,and fl owers History of the designs of fashionable fi gu- from September 30 to January 30, 2007, 40° Anniversary of the Florence Flood Logge del Porcellino, every day, all day res painted in 1950 Palazzo Medici Riccardi, via Cavour 1 from October 15 to November 6, Circolo wine & fashion 2006 from september 11th - to november 11th tel. 055.2760640, www.palazzo-medici.it Vie Nuove - info tel. 0556585128 2006Maison Dumitru, Borgo Pinti, 25R, From Oct 6 to 26, various place in Florence Al Centro dell’Essere - sculptures and www.comune.fi .it area, see www.wineandfashion.it info 0557189417 paintings by Enrico Savelli e-mail: [email protected], The Mystery of the Genesis in the Jor- info 055 8360310 Untill October 15, Boboli Gardens Piazza ge Jimenez Deredia’s Sculptures free entrance Pitti , days closed: 1st and last Mon of the 70th Meeting in Florence - Footwear Forty sculptures made of Carrara white Trade Fair Botticelli, Verrocchio and others. month, info 0572-616065price: € 8,00 marble and bronze by Jorge Jiménez De- Italian Drawings of the 14th Century from Oct 8 and 9, Saschall Lungarno A. Moro, 3, Un ponte sul Mediterraneo. Leonardo redia (Costa Rican). info 055-6504112 ww.saschall.it the Royal Collection of Dresden Pisano, the science of Arabia and the Until September 30, closed 1st and last from September 15 to November 5, Istituto birth of western mathematics.- Mon of the month, €7, Boboli Gardens, Fortezza Antiquaria - antique market Universitario Olandese di Storia dell’Arte, from September 14 to November 11, Mu- Piazza Pitti, tel. 055-2298732 3rd Saturday and Sunday of the month viale Torricelli 5, info 055221612 seo di Storia Naturale, Borgo degli Albizi 28 www.ilmisterodellagenesi.com Piazza Indipendenza tel. 0553283550 www.iuoart.org - tel. 055-7879594 - www.archimede.ms n GUIDED TOURS n MUSIC & CONCERTS Giovanni Paszkowski: l’ora sospesa Musical Conversations paintings Planetarium: meetings with the public Concerts at St.Mark’s English Church Introducing the operas performed in Flo- until November 30 (at 9.15p.m - in Novem- untill 11 Nov, Museo Marino Marini, Piazzo rence at the Teatro del Maggio Musicale 2006, from January to May and from Octo- San Pancrazio, tel. 055.219432 ber to December ( on Thursdays and on ber the concerts take place at 6.30 p.m. Fiorentino during the 2006/2007 season. instead of 9.15 p.m.) Chiesa Anglicana di www.museomarinomarini.it From Sept. 28 to Nov 1, Horticultural Gar- Sundays), Planetario, via G. Giusti 29, info 0552343723 - www.fstfi renze.it St. Mark’s - Maggio (Via) tel. 3408119192 Mozart in Florence dens Library, Via V. Emanuele II, 4 , Ponte www.concertoclassico.info commemorating the 250° birthday of W.A. Rosso, info 055-290838 Itinerari e Incontri Mozart www.maggiofi orentino.it Guided visits, book presentations, and con- Organ and instrumental concerts Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Ricci, via del Sept 22 to Oct 21, Biblioteca Naziona- Egyptian Motifs in the ‘English’ Ceme- ferences le Centrale, p.za Cavalleggeri, info 055- Associazione Akropolis, Info 055461428, Corso, tel. 055.289367, all year, Mon-Sun tery. Hope of Life after Death 21.15, Sat 18.00, €11 24919280 www.bncf.fi renze.sbn.it Untill May 27 2007, Archaeological Museum http://it.geocites.com/associazione_akro- h 10:00-12:30 / 15:00-18:00; sat 10:00- Via della Colonna, 36, Mon 14:00-19:00; polis/ all year Concerts at St. Mark’s English Church 12:30 Free entrance Tue and Thu 8:30-19:; Wed Fri, Sat and Museo Bandini The “Orpheus Ensemble” presents sacred Exhibition by D’ARS Foundation. Raku Sun 8:30-14:00 info 055-23575 Until October 31, 9.30-19 music, Italian opera arias and Neapolitan ceramics by Rosanna Palumbo www.beniculturali.it/ Fiesole, via Duprè 1 Songs with piano and voice from September 24 to October 9 Pa- www.comune.fi renze.it/soggetti/sat St. Mark’s English Church, Via Maggio 16- Restoration of the cycle of frescoes by 18, tel 340.8119192, every day at 21.15, lazzo Giannozzi Certaldo (Firenze) info APOXYOMENOS: THE ATHLETE OF A. Gaddi in the Cappella Maggiore 0571663244 - comune.certaldo.fi .it €15, for The Florentine readers € 10 (Mon- CROATIA Until December 31, Fri and Sat at 10, 11, days free piano recital) Photographic exhibition organised by Untill January 2007, Palazzo Medici Riccar- 12, 14, 15, 16; Sun at 14, 15, 16 Studio Marangoni Fundation di, Via Cavour, 3. Open Mon. Tues., Thurs. Chiesa di Santa Croce Musica dei Popoli from September 28 to October 8, Ba- Fri., Sat. Sun. 9.00-19,00,5 euro (includes 31st Annual Edition Music Festival Artisans of the Oltrarno, in search of from Oct.6 to Nov. 21, Auditorium Flog, via silica di Sant’Alessandro, Fiesole, Info entrance to Palazzo Medici Riccardi). artistic craftsmanship 800414240 - www.comune.fi esole.fi .it Mercati Michele 24b tel. 055.4220300, Cardini e Barthel Genuine Florentine artisan traditions www.musicadeipopoli.com Comics Contest “Matite per la Pace” Paintings and installations Info 055.3036108 Sept 30 to Oct 6, Istituto Statale d’Arte di untill Oct 30, Offi cina Barthel, via dei serra- www.fi renze-oltrarno.net all year Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Firenze, Piazzale di Porta Romana 9 gli 222r, h 10-13 , 15.30-19.30 Barber of Seville. Roberto Abbado on the Hortibus Collection & Garden tours podium. www.scuolacomics.it info 335 5711786 Starting point: piazza S.Trinita, every Thur info 055-218950 , h 16.00 to 20.00 From Oct 6 to 15, Teatro del maggio mu- Fashion Design Café - Fashion-Design and Sat at 15.00, info 348.9100783 sicale, Corso Italia 16, tel. 055.213535, Pedalando nel tempo (Cycling throu- Universe and Innovative Materials www.hortibus.com, € 25, all year www.maggiofi orentino.com ghout time) organized by Blu Design and Pardini Con- Guided visit s to gardens in Fiesole An exhibit of antique bicycles in the new sulting in collaboration with Polimoda, Isia September, October on Thursday various n NIGHTLIFE ground-fl oor exhibition space of the Mu- Firenze, Industrial Design dept. of Universi- placet info 800414240 Golden View seum. ta di Firenze Matech Padova, Firenze Tec- www.comune.fi esole.fi .it restaurant with music, every Sun, Mon and Until December 31, Mon-Sat 9.30-17, Tues nologia Handicrafts of Chianti: guided visits Wed live jazz music 9.30-13, 2nd Sun of the month 10-13, Mu- Oct 4 to 8, Stazione Leopolda, Piazzale di via dei bardi 58r,info 055 214502 seo di Storia della Scienza, piazza dei Giu- Porta al Prato info 055-6140124 From Sept 21 to Dec 28, Florentine Chianti, dici 1, tel. 055.265311, www.imss.fi .it www.isiadesign.fi .it On thurdays, booking: 055-822807, price: Champagneria € 10,00 pizza, disco,pub, pop and rock music Incontri Mediterranei www.stazione-leopolda.com Verdi delizie: Villas; Gardens and via villamagna 71, Candeli (Bagno a Ripoli, Until October 10, Museo Archeologico Na- Tesori d’arte @lla tua biblioteca Firenze) info 055 632815 zionale, via della Colonna 36 From Oct 7 to 28, Various Libraries in Flo- Parks of Florence. Cycle of meetings and itineraries www.champagneria.it, music on Fri and Sat, tel. 055.294883 rence, info 0571-757840 www.cultura. free entrance www.fi renzemusei.it/archeologica toscana.it/biblioteche/primo_piano/docu- October 7, 13, 21, 27, Info & bookings call menti/calendario_tesoriARTE.shtml 333-3833673 / 347-0057608 12 Thursday 5 October 2006 What’s on & Where to Go www.thefl orentine.net

Events in FLORENCE OCT 6 TO OCT 19

Ambasciata di Marte The amazing circus of Merlin the Wi- Calenzano discovered, walks through October from 15 to 22, Impruneta (Firenze), See web for Music program and concerts zard history and nature. info 055203641 All year, Ambasciata di Marte, Via Mannelli 2 Workshop to create circus equipment. Guided walking tours www.comune.impruneta.fi .it Campo di Marte, info 055-6550786 For children ages 4 to 11 from April to October, Calenzano, info Market in via Magnolfi www.ambasciatadimarte.org Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r 055.8833255 www.comune.calenzano.fi .it Hancrafts market member only, h 22.00 tel. 055.264471, every Thur, 17.00 On the Scaffolding with Filippo Lippi October 17, via magnolfi Prato, h. 8.30 alle Cavalca la fi esta The world through the senses Visits to the restoration of Filippo Lippi’s h. 19.30 info Il Penny info 339-5423347 until October 28., from Thu to Sat Experimenting with the senses (taste, sight, fresco (max 12 persons) – 055-243188 e-mail: [email protected] Ippodromo Le Mulina, v.le del Pegaso hearing, touch, smell) through games and every Sat at 10, 11, 16, 17, Sun at 10, 11, Palio di San Luca info 335.6070924 book-readings. For children ages 2 to 5 €8, Cattedrale di Santo Stefano, piazza del October 19, Impruneta (Firenze), The Sound of ’80s Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r Duomo, Prato, tel. 0574.24112 info 055 203641 Sept 26 to Oct 31 On Tuersday night at tel. 055.264471, every Fri, 17.00 www.restaurofi lippolippi.it www.comune.impruneta.fi .it by reservation only Dolce Zucchero (Via De’Pandolfi ni 38r) n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) www.fabbricaimpruneta.it info 338-87108383, free entrance Abbey of San Salvatore and San Lo- Puppet show Week-end of October 7-8 Jazz Club renzo a Settimo Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r Every Wed, Fri 10-12, Sun 15.30-18, clo- Sagra delle frattaglie jazz nights tel. 055.264471, every Sat, 17.00 Jazz Club, via Nuova de’ Caccini 3 sed July and Aug, Badia a Settimo, Scan- Oct 7 and 8, Strada in Chianti, circolo arci tel. 055.2479700, 22.15, € 7 dicci, tel. 055.7310537, www.badiadisetti- via mazzini 31 (Firenze) info 328 2195401 OUT OF TOWN mo.it Beefsteak and mushroom festival n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES The Ceramics of Montelupo October 7, 8 Certaldo (Firenze) Centro po- Navigating the Arno River under the n COURSES Free guided visits of Archaeology and livalente tel. 0571667349 Ponte Vecchio Ceramics Museum and participation in www.comune.certaldo.fi .it Arteinscena Musical laboratory Rowing on the Arno workshops Fierucola de panni from June to October, starting point: Lun- Dancing and singing Every Thur from 10.00 to 14.00, Museo enrollment to [email protected] Monthly market with organic and natural garno A.M. de’ Medici and Lungarno Gene- Archeologico e della Ceramica, Montelupo and artisan products. rale Diaz, tel. 347 7982 356 or fax (0574/445580) o at Teatro Politeama Fiorentino, tel. 0571.518993 Pratese, Via G. Garibaldi 33 Prato October 7 and 8, Piazza Buonamici Prato, www.renaioli.it Wine and Fashion in the Florentine Info 0574-814210, 9.00 to 19.00 Sport and fun at the Renai Park n EXHIBITS Mountains. Itineraries with guided vi- Pane & companatico from Oct. 1 to 31, Renai Park , Signa, Fi- Arts in Fabula exhibiton realised by sits, shopping oct 8 Pratolino Vaglia, Firenze, info 055 renze every day 12:00-24:00; Sun and Maurizio Sciaccaluga Tours to discover the beauty of the Floren- 8468259 www.terrenove.it Hols.12:00-20:00 info 339-2834722, tine Mountains. Visits to artisan workshops from June 17 to November 1 Schiacciata festival www.parcorenai.it Palazzo Pretorio, Certaldo (Firenze) and local shopping centres All year Mon and Sat, Resco Travel October 8, Vaglia, Firenze, Bivigliano tel. Campionati Europei di Ultimate Fri- info 0571661219 055406452 - www.comune.vaglia.fi .it sbee www.comune.certaldo.fi .it tel. 055.868009 Organized by Tuscan Flying Disc Associa- Corrispondenze walking in Val D’orcia (Siena) Week-end of October 14-15 tion and Uisp Firenze, FIFD (Federazione Selected operas unitll 30 November, info and booking 0577 Antique market at villa Gerini Italiana Flying Disc), la EFDF (European From 7 sept 2006 to 7 Jan 2007, Centro 351302 www.dimenicainchianti.it, 7€ handcrafts market Flying Disc Federation) Competition with per l’Arte Contemporanea Luigi Pecci, Via- Sunday in Chianti October 13 to 15, Villa Gerini, Colonnata 28 teams (16 male and 12 female, from le della Repubblica 277 Prato, info 0574- unitll 30 october, info and booking 0577 Firenze, info 338 9216586 10 countries, 300 of the best players of the 5317 www.centropecci.it, up to 21st oct 898303 www.parcodellavaldorcia.com, 8€ world Festa della Smarronata from Tue to Sat h. 10-14, 15-19 then up The Valley of Treasures Chestnut Festival October 6 to 8, Stadio Luigi Ridolfi to 7 jan from Wed to Sun h. 10-14, 15-19, viale Fanti 4 - Firenze Guided visits to the Jerusalem of San Vi- Oct. 14 and 15, San Piero a Sieve, info 055 Free entrance valdo 848751, www.mugellotoscana.it n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Painting exhibition about the Mugello Montaione, San Vivaldo info 0571699252 Sagra della Polenta e Castagne Baroque Festival area and the angels of Beato Angelico www.piccoligrandimusei.it Chestnut Festival from September 23 to October 15, San Oct. 19 to28 Educatorio di Fuligno, Via n MARKETS & FESTIVALS Oct 14 and 15, Ronta Borgo San Lorenzo, Faenza 42 info 055-6120205 Piero a Sieve (Firenze) Convento di Bosco Firenze, info 0558403386 www.tedavi98.it, 21.15 ai Frati, Castello di Cafaggiolo, Casa di Antique and fl ea market Giotto tel. 055848751 every fi rst Sunday of the month Sesto Fio- 5a festa della Castagna www.comune.san-piero-a-sieve.fi .it rentino info 0554496357 Chestnut Festival www.comune.sesto-fi orentino.fi .it Oct 14 and 15, Bacchereto Prato, info 055 UP COMING Grand Hotel 8717175 www.bacchereto.it a study of the meaning of living spaces Boccaccesca. Food and wine fair n EXHIBITS Oct. 13 to 21, Offi cina Giovani October 6, 7, 8, 13, 14, 15, Certaldo Alto sagra delle frattaglie Oct 14 and 15, Strada in Chianti, circolo I giorni del diluvio - photos and video Piazza Macelli 4, Prato Info 0574-534579 (Firenze) info 0571663384 www.offi cinagiovani.it www.boccaccesca.it, 5€ arci via mazzini 31 (Firenze) about Florence’s inundation (1966- info 328 2195401 2006) Jangsu Modern Chinese Inkpainting. Scandicci i fi era 40° Anniversary of the Florence Flood Exhibition October 7 to 15, Scandicci Firenze, info Genio & Sapori from October 28 to November 18, Ex Chie- from october 17, 2006 to January 7, 2007, 055 75911 www.comune.scandicci.fi .it food and wine of the Prato Province Oct,14 and 15, Sat h. 15 to 19; Sun h. 10 to sa San Carlo ai Barnabiti, via S.Agostino Vinci (Firenze) Museo Leonardiano 43° Sagra delle Castagne info 0554975412 tel. 0571568012 - www.comune.vinci.fi .it 20, Piazza Lippi, Prato info 0574-1835957 Chestnut Festival [email protected] La Città capovolta - photographic exhi- The Valley of Treasures October 8, 15, 22 and 29; Marradi (Mugel- bition by Francesco De Masi and texts Mirroring Masterpieces Compared: A com- lo) Firenze, info 055 8045170 From the wood and from the stone by Carmelina Rotundo parison of art works to re-launch the “Uffi - www.sagradellecastagne.it handcrafts fair 40° Anniversary of the Florence Flood zi of the Countryside” Until November 19, On Sunday 15 and 22 Florence will be oct 14 and 15, Firenzuola, Firenze, info 055 from October 28 to November 18, Ex Chie- Exhibitions in Valdelsa and Empoli Museu- linked to Marradi with old steam trains 8199459 www.mugellotoscana.it sa San Carlo ai Barnabiti, via S.Agostino ms, various sites Smarronando e svinando Sagra di Penco info 0554975413 www.piccoligrandimusei.it Chestnut Festival October 14, 15, Leccio, Reggiello (Firen- Dilvo Lotti: un maestro dell’espressio- October 8 and 15, Pietramala (fi orenzuola ze) tel. 0558669232 nismo europeo - Mugello) Firenze, info 055 8199401 www.comune.reggello.fi .it CHILDREN From July 15 to December 15, Museo Dio- Festa dei marroni Winter fair cesano - Via Angelica - Conservatorio di handcrafts market n Chestnut Festival GUIDED TOURS Santa Chiara - Rocca Federiciana - Orato- October 8, 15 and 22, Vicchio, Firenze, info October 15, piazza gramsci, Castelfi orenti- Il Giardino di Archimede, Mathematics rio del Loretino - Accademia degli Euteleti, 055 843921 www.mugellotoscana.it no Firenze, h 9.00 to 19.00 Sundays San Miniato info 0571 76303 Chestnut festival Guided visits and surprise events at the October 8, 15 Incisa Valdarno (Firenze) Pa- Antique and handicraft market Museum n GUIDED TOURS lazzolo tel. 055863129 October 15, Certaldo(Firenze), Piazza Boc- Il Giardino di Archimede, Museo per la Ma- On the Scaffolding with Filippo Lippi www.comune.incisa-valdarno.fi .it caccio tel. 0571661276 tematica, via S. Bartolo a Cintoia 19, tel. Visits to the restoration of Filippo Lippi’s www.comune.certaldo.fi .it 055.7879594, www.archimede.ms fresco (max 12 persons) Antique and second-hand good- Antique market on the fi rst Sunday of every month Cattedrale di Santo Stefano, piazza del smarket Duomo, Prato, tel. 0574.24112 October 10, Greve in Chianti (Firenze) Piaz- October 15 Montelupo Fiorentino (Firenze) n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES www.restaurofi lippolippi.it za Matteotti tel. 0558545271 tel. 0571518993 The little joiner’s shop by reservation only, every Sat at 10, 11, 16, www.comune.greve-in-chianti.fi .it www.comune.montelupo-fi orentino.fi .it Workshop to create wooden games. De- 17, Sun at 10, 11, €8 Una sera a cena. Early dinner with typi- Chestnut festival velops creativity and dexterity. For children Guided visits to the Medici Villa Am- cal dishes and readings October 15, San Godenzio (Firenze), Ca- ages 4 to 10 brogiana October 12 Bagno a Ripoli, Spedale del stagneto tel. 0558373826 Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r, tel. October 14 at 3,30 p.m, Montelupo Fioren- Bigallo, Firenze tel. 3342007438 www.comune.san-godenzo.fi .it 055.264471, every Wed, 17.00 tino (FIrenze) Villa Ambrogiana www.giardiniassociati.it Empolissima. The market in the centre tel. 0571518993 Ancient fair of St. Luke October 15, Empoli Firenze tel. 0571757999 13 www.thefl orentine.net What’s on & Where to Go Thursday 5 October 2006

Events in FLORENCE OCT 6 TO OCT 19

n MUSIC & CONCERTS 0573 771408 Alter Mundi H 10.00 to 12.00 and 15.00 to 17.00 Encounter and exchange through the me- USCITA PISTOIA diums of music, dance, theatre and discus- Contemporary Art sion. October 9 to Nov 24 Spazio A contempora- Oct. 4 to 8, Offi cina Giovani, Piazza Macelli nearte, Via Modenese 165, Pistoia, info 347 4, Prato – Info 0574-534578 7936933 www.uscitapistoia.it Eshareh www.spazioa.it, h 16.20 October 7, Offi cina Giovani – Piazza Macel- n MARKETS & FESTIVALS li Prato, Alter Mundi. Info 340 08 03 192, Palio of Ducks www.terzapiccarda.it H 21:00. Oct. 7 and 8, Balconevisi San Miniato n PARKS (Pisa), info 0571 460112 Sculptures in a woodland Quei giorni divini: Palio del Pigio In an untouched wood of ilex and oak trees Grape pressing and stomping in the heart of Sienese Chianti, many inter- Oct. 7 and 8, Poggibonsi (Siena) nationally renowned artists from fi ve conti- info 0577 9861 nents have created imposing contemporary 9a Rassegna Micologica della Monta- sculptures gna Pistoiese Parco sculture del Chianti, La Fornace Mushroom festival 48/49, Pievasciata, Siena, tel. 0577.357151, Oct 13 to 15, Cutigliano, Pistoia, info 053 www.chiantisculpturepark.it, open all year 68881 www.comune.cutigliano.pt.it Parco Mediceo di Pratolino Pisa Book Festival Theatrical, musical and dance performan- October 13 - 15, Stazione Leopolda, Pisa, ces, inter-cultural themes. info 050 563253 www.festivaldellibro.com Until October 31, Thur & Fri, Pratolino, Va- volterragusto glia, info 055.409155, from Thur to Sun from Oct. 14 to Nov. 11, Volterra (Siena) 10-19.30 info 0588 87257, for complete programme n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES see www.volterragusto.com Calenzano discovered, walks through White Truffl e Sagra history and nature. Oct. 14 and 15, Balconevisi San Miniato Guided walking tours (Pisa), info 0571 460112 from April to October, Calenzano festa delle Cantine info 055.8833255 Oct 14 and 15, Campagnatico (Grosseto) Empoli – Fiorentina info 055 489776 Soccer Serie A Lumberjack Palio Oct 15, Castellani Stadium, Viale delle Oct. 15, Vivo d’Orcia (siena), www.proloco- Olimpiadi, Empoli , Firenze vivo.org, info 0577 873633 www.empolifc.com Sagra della Frugiata n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Chestnut Festival Intercity Toronto Oct 15, Montagnana, Pistoia, info 328 International contemporary drama festival. 1098658 19th Edition Rassegna della Cucina Pistoiese from September 29 to October 31 Tea- Pistoia Food Festival tro della Limonaia (Sesto Fiorentino) tel. Oct 19 to 22, Pistoia, info 0573 31144 055440852 - www.teatrodellalimonaia.it Theatre Improvisation Match October 11, h. 8 pm Every Friday, SMS San Quirico, Via Baccio da Montelupo, 35 , Legnaia, Firenze, info ‘Festa del Jazz’ - Jazz party 347- 6495902 www.lifonline.it/, 21:15 Orchestra of strumenti a fi ato from the Scuola di Musica di Sesto Fiorentino: Parappa*J* IN TUSCANY Director Roberto Buoni ������������������������������������������ n EXHIBITS Anyone interested in listening to jazz or play- ing is invited to attend. Entrance is free. La fabbrica della memoria -Anne e Pa- trick Poirer Scuola di Musica - Il Trillo ���������������������������������������������������� ��������������������� until March, Villa Medicea La Magia, Piazza salvemini,21 - Florence. �������������������������������������������������������� ������������������ via vecchia fi orentina I tronco 63, For more info call: 055 2341049 Quarrata (Pistoia) info and reservations 14 Thursday 5 October 2006 www.thefl orentine.net UP CLOSE & PERSONAL

partner, Bob Hesse, and I decided to and the fi rst acknowledged woman move here part-time out of love of the painter of Florence. The unveiling of city, its art, and love for the Italians. this restored painting will take place at An the end of October. We are very involved in the city in different venues of art and culture and TF: What has Florence done Interview are currently working on several proj- for you? ects. We’ve been trying to start a non- with profi t artisan’s school—solely for the JF: I came to Florence in the mid- ‘lost arts.’ It has been a very long and 1960s for my junior year in college— slow process, but we are working to something that was still unusual for make this happen. that time. It was a chance to interact Jane with another culture and discover a TF: What do you mean by the new outlook. I fell in love with Flor- ‘lost arts’? ence—who wouldn’t fall in love with Fortune Florence at 20 years old? JF: We’re talking about the man who In Florence I discovered my love for makes the colours to dye the fabrics. art. It is my fi rst passion. My second Or someone who does stained glass passion is making art accessible to windows. Old-fashioned marble work- people with special needs—the hear- Meet The Florentine’s ers, restorers or artisans who create ing impaired, visually impaired and ceramics according to ancient tradi- physically challenged. I feel it’s an new cultural editor. tions. We’re not talking about leather issue that deserves attention and have or ironwork, because those industries worked to start accessibility programs continue to do quite well. We’re talking in several museums and one art fair ane Fortune, art lover and The Florentine: What types of things about those master artisans who are in the United States. It’s a question Jadvocate for women in the can readers expect to fi nd in your currently in their seventies and have of taking little steps in the right direc- arts, is a part-time resident of new column? no one to pass the craft on to, or who tion, like providing sign language inter- Florence. Involved with a wide can’t afford an apprentice, or are hav- preters or allowing the blind to wear variety of cultural and research Jane Fortune: I hope to bring together ing trouble supporting their bottegas. gloves and have the opportunity to organizations, she is Sustain- a series of personal passions that I’d touch the works of art, while a docent ing Life trustee of the India- like to share with people. This column TF: Tell us about your work with the explains the pieces to them. Accessi- napolis Museum of Art and was is inspired by my love of food, people, Florence Committee. bility programs are important because board trustee and president and special places in Italy you can’t usu- they bring all people together to fully of the Women’s Board of the ally fi nd in a guide book, but that have JF: The Florence Committee of the experience art. ■ Pennsylvania Academy of the found a place in my heart. There are National Museum of Women in the Arts, Fine Arts. Dedicated to making incredible artisan masters that deserve which I founded and chair, supports art accessible to people with to be highlighted, and women artists Italian women in the arts, both past ��������� special needs, Jane was also and lesser known exhibits that are really and present. Interestingly enough, in president and chairman of the worth knowing about. I’m not an art Florence there are currently 31 women �������������������������������� Deafness Research Founda- expert; I simply study it and love it. This museum directors. These museums ��������������������������������� tion. She is active in Florence page in the paper will include a variety exist because of these women and the ���� ����������� ��� ���� ���� ���� as founder and chairman of of features, from traditional trivia and shows they put on; but they receive ����������������������������������� noteworthy tips to news from the Flo- very little acknowledgement for the the Florence Committee of the �������������������� rentine museums. Over the years, many work that they do. Over the past three National Museum of Women in people have asked me for advice on years, the Florence Committee has the Arts (NMWA), and member places to visit, family restaurants to enjoy gotten these directors together to ������������������� of the National Advisory Board and books to read regarding Florence. enable them to form collaborative rela- of NMWA. Jane currently acts ������������������ Hopefully, the column will serve to make tionships. They really can do a lot as as chairman of the board of people’s time here more interesting. a group. �������� trustees of Studio Art Center The Florence Committee is also International (SACI) in Flor- TF: What is your relationship with involved in funding restoration of art ������������� ence. She is the cultural editor Florence? by women in Florentine museums. Our of The Florentine, and readers ������������������������������� fi rst project is the restoration of Suor �������������������������� can now look forward to her JF: I have lived in Florence six months Plautilla Nelli’s Lamentation in the ���������� new bi-monthly column. out of the year for six years now. My life Museo di San Marco. She was a nun ��������������������� 15 www.thefl orentine.net Thursday 5 October 2006 All of the articles found in the following pages are written by independent collaborators. The Florentine seeks to publish stories that are interesting, entertaining, and useful to all of our readers. If and when a writer expresses opinions within his or her work those opinions should be considered to be those of the writer and not necessarily those of the publishers of this Culture & CUSTOMS newspaper. If you wish to submit articles for consideration please contact us at redazione@thefl orentine.net.

ITALIAN VOICES: a window on language ‘In Italy, it’s essential that the culprit admit the and customs in Italy...‘Si fa per dire...’ error of his ways, but there is no real desire to by Linda Falcone punish the perpetrator’.

artina and I piled into an plains that it’s raining, she simply already crowded café in wants you to understand that she’s Mhopes of a corner table. getting wet. She doesn’t want you to Once a month we meet there to talk, run for an umbrella necessarily. Men sip cappuccino, and perhaps jot a never quite get that. Her goal is not to line or two in our ‘’Be Bohemian’ solve the problem, but to share it. The notebooks. We were actually both same is true for Italians. They speak quite busily writing, when someone to share the pain and glory; not in at the bar burst suddenly into fl ames. hopes of achieving results.’ Not literally of course, but it’s the ‘So does that mean that English best way to describe the explosive speakers think more like men do?’ verbal exchange that occurred when ‘Maybe in a way,’ she mused. ‘In the barman served up a lukewarm English, speech is the preliminary cappuccio that the customer called step to problem-solving. Catch an ‘cold.’ English-speaker voicing complaints As soon as the barman offered and the driving force behind the gripe to restore world peace by providing will be the idea that “something must another cup, the customer stepped be done.” Italians, on the other hand, back, took his fi nal sip, and said. ‘No, no. It’s mity and magnanimity at the same time ‘You’re often opt for the fi libuster— not necessary. Si fa per dire.’ With that, he turned wrong and I want the world to know it—but talk an issue to death so that nothing whatso- and headed for the door, restoring all semblance don’t worry about fi xing the mess. The clean- ever will be done about it.’ of placidity in the place. The barista, entirely ers are coming tomorrow.’ For me, the phrase The thought struck us both as immensely unmoved by the episode, quickly collected the illustrates the in-born Italian ability to overlook funny, and Martina and I interrupted our laugh- cup and saucer from the counter-top and went trite daily inadequacies. In Italy, it’s essential ter only long enough to order two hot choco- back to his task. that the culprit admit the error of his ways, but lates from our already disapproving waiter. He I sat watching the exchange with some mea- there is no real desire to punish the perpetrator. met our request with reluctance. Couldn’t we sure of fascination. In this country, it’s the confession that counts. see that it was too early in the year for hot choc- In English, complaining is a catalyst for Once that’s over with, it’s best to leave people olate? With the sun as hot as it was, we should change. If you’re an English speaker and you to their business. know better than to rush the season. tell the barman that your cappuccino is cold, ‘Martina, why do you think Italians make I greeted his grimace with ruffl ed feathers. it means you’re intent on getting another cup. such a show of protesting over things they don’t ‘So, does all this mean you can’t make it for In English, we talk in hopes of making things really care about?’ us? happen. In Italian, you make things happen so ‘They care, they just don’t expect their pro- ‘Of course we can make it,’ he said with sur- you can talk about them. This guy didn’t want tests to produce immediate effects.’ prise. ‘Si fa per dire.’ a refi ll—catching the mistake was gratifi cation ‘In English, complaints are always a means Right. enough. And that’s where the phrase si fa per to an end.’ How quickly one forgets. In Italy, inappropri- dire comes into play. ‘Not here,’ my friend thought. ‘Maybe it’s ate choices must be disputed at all costs. Light Translated literally as ‘one does so that one because Italians have quite a feminine psyche.’ must be shed on suspicious behaviors. But no may say,’ it’s often used as ‘Oh, never mind, I ‘What does that mean?’ worries. Around here, chocolate sins are very just thought you should know.’ A tell-tale Ital- ‘It’s like what psychologists say. Women readily forgiven. ian expression, si fa per dire expresses unconfor- speak to fi nd understanding. If a woman com-

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ook to Jane Fortune’s new column for news and views on Florence’s best cultural events, from art and music Lto dance and theatre. Discover must-dine family restaurants and many of the area’s unsung treasures. Spotlight OUR FAVORITE on women artists, outstanding artisans and unsung heroes of Florentine tradition. Don’t miss Jane’s Gems, places to go and people to know—for the veteran city-dweller and the newly arrived. FAMILY RESTAURANTS: In this section, expect suggestions From the museums: regarding restaurants Bob and I par- ticularly love—for their good food, and A hidden jewel: especially the friendship and kind- Museo di ness each has extended to us over Unforgettable places and special works of art the 15 years we have been coming to San Marco Florence. Several restaurants will be gious and scientifi c upheaval of that well-known, others may not be, but By Dottoressa Magnolia Scudieri, each has one thing in common—they time. Pontormo (1494-1556), was Director of Museo di San Marco apprenticed to Andrea del Sarto, have shared their lives with us and that is a gift we most treasure. and was highly infl uenced by Fra’ he Museum of San Marco was Bartolomeo during his early years, Topened to the public in 1869 after To paraphrase, the cuisine of Florence and by Michelangelo later in life. the abolition of monasteries, which is like ‘Brunelleschi’s architectural lines, occurred in 1866. It has its own Just across the Ponte Vecchio, which need nothing added, and noth- place inside the old monastery of San ing subtracted.’ you can fi nd one of the oldest Marco, built between 1437 and 1444 churches in Florence, Santa Felic- under the patronage of Cosimo de’ ità. It connects with the overhead Medici for the reformed Dominican corridor created by Vasari, which monks coming from San Domenico in bridges Palazzo Vecchio with the Fiesole. It was erected on the ruins of Palazzo Pitti, and contains Pontor- the pre-existing medieval monastery, mo’s Deposition of Christ (1526-28) once inhabited by Sylvestrin monks. in the Cappella Capponi. This piece The building, designed by Michelozzo, love any work by Jacopo Pon- is the singular masterpiece of Flo- the favourite architect of the Medici tormo, a tortured soul who rentine Mannerism. family, is a fi ne example of measure, Iproduced amazing Manneristic Pontormo prevented all access to harmony and rationality, so typical of colors in his works. Doris Kryst the chapel during the entire painting Renaissance architecture. describes Mannerism as ‘an emo- process, because his work was such During the same period, many tional accentuation of movement a departure from the style of that spaces, such as the cloisters, the chap- and expressions of the body, eccen- time. You can locate his bearded ter house, the 44 cells and the corri- tric composition of space with dis- self-portrait in the middle of the dors of the dormitory were frescoed by Trattoria Pandemonio torted perspective, anatomical exag- right side. Pontormo’s elongated Fra’ Giovanni da Fiesole, later known Via dei Leoni 50/r geration, restless variation of light Modigliani-like characters, unnatu- as Beato Angelico. In the following Tel. 055-224-002 (reservations and artifi cial color.’ Artists of this ral light, fl oating fi gures and bril- centuries, other important painters, are necessary for dinner) such as Bernardino Poccetti, Alessan- period, which stretched between the liant contrast of intense colors are Closed Sunday High Renaissance and the Baroque simply magnifi cent. His hauntingly dro Gherardini and Fra’ Bartolomeo (who lived and had his own workshop period, rejected Renaissance bal- beautiful Annunciation, located on olando Brogi and his charm- ance and harmony, creating works the side wall, separates Mary and in the monastery) frescoed some walls of the rooms and cloisters in order to Ring, personable, wife/chef, which portrayed the social, reli- the Angel by a window. celebrate the most important saints of Giovanna Biagi, and their son/chef, the Domenican order. Francesco, have created this won- Every two weeks, I will write about Since 1800, the museum has derful restaurant. Full of warmth JANE’S GEMS ✧✧✧ one truly unique experience—a gem. acquired a noteworthy collection of and ‘informal confusion’ (pande- illuminated choir-books coming from monio) the restaurant mirrors its Chiesa La Badia Fiorentina closed monasteries as well as the name. The Brogi welcome their remains of ancient stone fragments guests as if they were family, and Via del Proconsolo and paintings of the ‘old centre’ of their guests, in turn, come back Midday Prayer Tuesday-Saturday Florence. In later years, it established again and again. My partner Bob at 12:30pm its own character, becoming a mono- and I have been coming here for graphic museum dedicated to Fra’ years and feel we are family. In the Located in the heart of the city, Angelico, one of the most outstanding evenings, they always are full. We La Badia Fiorentina has been home painters of the Renaissance. Hence, go at lunchtime, when few people to the Fraternità Monastica di Geru- at present, the museum exhibits the are there and are often offered salemme since 1998. Tuesday majority of his paintings on wood com- tasting samples of the ‘off menu’ he church was founded and ing from other Florentine churches endowed in 978 by the German through Saturday, the urban broth- dishes the family enjoys. Ask to sit T ers and sisters sing midday prayer in and monasteries. in their lovely garden room. princess Willa, widow of Umberto, four-part harmony, a cappella, and it During the 1900s, the museum Margrave of Tuscia (Tuscany). The is one of the most beautiful services achieved one of its main goals: namely, Menu suggestions: fried zuc- slender bell tower (la badia) is a we have attended. Midday prayer is to increase the variety and number of chini; the tortellacci (pasta stuffed cultural treasures, artistic or otherwise, landmark in the Florentine skyline of a Roman rite but draws on both with pesto and ricotta in a fresh linked to the Dominican personalities and used to call the artisans to work. Eastern and Western Christian tra- tomato sauce), and peposo with It is the church that hosts Filippino whose lives were intertwined with the dition. If you can’t make midday history of San Marco. mashed potatoes (a beef stew sim- Lippi’s Madonna Appearing to St. prayer, they sing Mass every Sun- Jane’s picks: In the large refectory, mered for hours in garlic, red wine Bernard and where Boccaccio lec- day at 11:00am—both services will Suor Plautilla Nelli’s Lamentation and whole peppercorns). Peposo tured on Dante’s Divine Comedy. be etched in your memory forever. (available for viewing from October was a creation of Brunelleschi’s, 24); on the fi rst fl oor, Fra Angelico’s who hoisted it up in large kettles Annunciation, one of the most famous and served it to his workers work- Jane Fortune fell in love with Florence when she spent her junior year abroad here images in Renaissance art; and in the ing on the Duomo’s cupola, so ‘molti anni fa’. Returning again and again over the years with her life partner, Bob Hesse, small refectory, Dominico Ghirland- they would not waste time coming they now live here part time. Jane, whose passion is art, serves as a Trustee on several aio’s Last Supper. down to eat. Giovanna’s cheese cake is the best we’ve had any- Boards of Museums in the United States. In Florence, she is the Chairman and Founder Piazza San Marco, 1 of the Florence Committee of the National Museum of Women in the Arts (NMWA), a where (the crust is amazing!). They Admission: 4 euro have a Tuscan Chianti wine, Cas- member of American International League (AIL), Chairman of the Board of Trustees of Open 8:15 - 1:30 Tue-Fri; Saturday tello de Ama, which is not found Studio Art Centers International (SACI) and is currently writing a guide to the works by and Sunday 8:30 -7, closed the 1st, rd th nd th on many wine lists—delicious! Their women artists in the Florence Museums. 3 , and 5 Sunday and 2 and 4 home-made limoncello, offered Monday of the month. Contact: j.fortune@thefl orentine.net after dinner, is also quite a treat. Tel: 055-2388605. 17 www.thefl orentine.net Life in Italy Thursday 5 October 2006 Travel & LEISURE Best Kept Secrets L’isola di Capraia hides natural wonders By Britt Alexander

ull of cultural, geological and natural history, the island of FCapraia is truly one of Tus- Ferry Company: Toremar cany’s most magnifi cent locations. Tel: 199 123 199 One of the seven islands of the www.gruppotirrenia.it/toremar Tuscan Archipelago National Park, Capraia was formed, according to Tuscan Archipelago National Park ancient legend, when the Tyrrhe- www.isleditoscana.it nian Venus, the goddess of beauty and love, came out of the sea and Capraia Diving Service seven gemstones fell from her tiara, each becoming one of the islands. In Tel and Fax: 0586 905 137 fact, each island has its own unique www.capraiadiving.it geological history and that is what to the archipelago, which is typi- industries are the production of [email protected] makes the landscape and ecology cal of such geographically isolated wine from a small terraced vineyard of this national park particularly locations. The presence of endemic in the centre of the island, known as diverse. species is one of the key reasons La Piana, and anchovy fi shing. The Britt Alexander is a Biology student Capraia was formed as a result why Capraia is protected and pre- island can be accessed by ferry from at the University of Bristol, UK. When of two volcanic eruptions occurring served as a national park, as the Livorno. The ferry runs twice a day she’s not studying she enjoys travel- between 4.5 and 9.5 million years loss of these species would result and takes two hours, but be sure to ling around the world and discovering ago. Its volcanic nature is evident in considerable loss of biodiversity check the weather forecast because new places and cultures. She spent in the deep red and black rocks that within the Tuscan Archipelago. The the ferry is often cancelled due to the past summer living and working scatter the coastline and the island’s most common of the endemic spe- strong winds. ■ in Florence. interior. One of the most spectacu- cies on Capraia are two species of lar locations on the island is Cala gastropod molluscs, and one of the Rossa (Red Cove) at the southern- most unique species exclusive to the most tip of the island, archipelago is the Tyrrhe- where the effects of the nian tree toad. volcanic eruptions can The ancient colonisa- be seen in the dramatic tion of the island is evi- red and white bicoloured dent on arrival into the cliffs meeting the sea. port. The magnifi cent Capraia lies in the Forte San Giorgio, an midst of the largest Etruscan-Roman for- ����������������������������������������������� marine protected area tress, lies on a cliff over- ������������������������ in Europe, making it a looking the town and prime spot for diving the sea. The island is and snorkelling. Snorkel- scattered with ancient ling spots can be reached watchtowers, Roman either by boat or by taking one of the roads and Romanesque churches, numerous walking trails which wind often in the most unexpected their way across the island through and isolated locations, acting as the wild vegetation and rocky sum- a reminder of the ancient civili- mits. The sea surrounding Capraia sations that have occupied this is colourful and full of many diverse striking location in the past. There types of marine life. One character- is only 800 metres of paved road, istic aspect of the Mediterranean running between the only popu- marine ecology that can be seen in lated areas on the island, the port the shallow waters surrounding the and the town, leaving the major- Workshop, Show Rooms and classes rocky coast are the Posidonia fi elds. ity of this 19-square-kilometre Posidonia are one of the few marine island largely inaccessible. Walk- ���������������������������� plants, characterised by their roots ing trials offer the opportunity to and fl owers. Their dense ribbon-like explore the most pristine areas of ���������������������������� leaves provide a protective environ- the national park and to immerse ���� ����������� �������� ���� ment for a variety of marine life, yourself in the natural beauty so ���������� ���� ������������ including many species of fi sh, algae unique to Capraia. ����������������������������� and invertebrates. Being of a volcanic nature, the While exploring the underwater island is fairly mountainous, with its ��������������������������� world, you may come across the highest peak reaching 445 metres at �������������������������� slimy, snake-like Moray eel. Largely Monte Castello. Some of the trails ���� ���� �������� ��� ���� nocturnal, it lives in crevasses within are therefore more challenging. Cap- ��������� rocks during the day and slithers its raia has a year-round population way out during the night to feed on of only 350 residents but receives fi sh and crabs. These animals are thousands of visitors. Despite its predators and can bite if disturbed, growing popularity, the island still so they are best admired from a dis- retains a quaint ambience and is tance! Capraia is home to several not the least bit spoilt by tourism. �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� endemic and rare species exclusive Besides tourism, the islands main ������������������������������������� ��������������������������������������������������������� 18 Thursday 5 October 2006 Life in Italy www.thefl orentine.net Travel & LEISURE

‘Un di’ all’azzurro spazio guardai profondo E ai prati colmi di viole Calling on Caruso Pioveva l’oro il sole Tenor’s house welcomes guests E sfolgorava d’oro il mondo’ By Margreta Guarnieri Villa Caruso

hen Enrico Caruso sang Andrea Chenier from the Wwindows of Bellosguardo, he looked out on the blue Tuscan sky and the green hills of Lastra a Signa. The famous tenor bought the villa in 1906 because of the peace- is an elegantly sober interior with fulness of the area and because an imposing staircase leading to the the dry air would be good for his upper fl oor. It’s now ready for the voice. Now, after 100 years of vari- return of the items which belonged ous changes in ownership, the villa to Caruso, especially those pertain- will become a museum dedicated ing to the panoramic hall where to Caruso thanks to the efforts of the tenor used to sing while gaz- various players: the Municipality ing at the countryside. It certainly of Lastra a Signa, the local Villa does offer a ‘Bellosguardo,’ where Caruso Association and the Caruso one can treasure memories of the commissioned the architects Dosio great variety of plants and fl owers, Association of Milan. famous artist; thanks to the opening and Tribolo to make the villa and due to both its original layout and ‘In 1979, all the furnishings in of the museum, the villa will echo park a place of delight for body landscape changes made over the the villa were auctioned off and once again and truly become abbot and soul. The garden still has its last century. Non-indigenous spe- all of the tenor’s belongings were Pucci’s locus amenus, or ‘place of 16th-century layout, with geometri- cies were planted in the garden dispersed,’ says Giampiero Fossi, delight.’ ■ cal edges enriched by lemon trees during the early 20th century by director of Polo Museale Caruso. in terracotta vases and an elegant Giuseppe De Micheli, a business- ‘We restored the building and pre- fountain. The park hosts lush fl ora man with a soft spot for art and served the surrounding park; both and secular trees that shadow sev- botany, who created a tropical area have been open to hosting public eral mythological statues; the old- in the garden. An historical archive events since 1995. Now, this dona- est ones represent animals, like the of fruits and fl owers of Florence tion from the Caruso Association abbot’s stone ‘bestiary.’ The abbot was established in the villa, and a of Milan will give Bellosguardo strived to fi ll the park with domestic winter garden was planted at the the complete collection of Caruso and wild animals according to the chapel entrance overlooking the records along with original pieces ideal pax naturae of Eden. Italian garden. One can also visit of furniture, paintings, sculptures EBY’S Inside the park, visitors can the museum of old viticulture tools and the written documents testify- chose between two trails: either the located in the farmhouse, the big ing the singer’s relationship with historical-artistic or the botanical storage building linked to the man- latin eating the world of opera and the protago- path. One can discover the Poets’ sion by a loggia with a panoramic nists of his time.’ & drinks Square, guarded by statues of Venus, terrace. This structure was added by Villa Caruso is a lyrical crown Eros, Bacchus, Bacchante, Pan and Caruso to create jobs for the locals to the former country residence Satyr: verses from Horace’s Odes when the crisis of the straw industry of Laudomia Guicciardini, and is are carved on the pedestal, invit- threatened the economic survival of surrounded by a huge park dotted ing the visitor to rest and listen to Signa and its surroundings. Built with valuable ancient statues. The the enchantment of ancient poetry. by architect Sabatini, this imposing estate, which presides over many Next there’s the Belvedere, the gallery makes a grand entrance to hectares of agricultural land, was Caruso Terrace, the Circular Lawn, the parterre with its big arch sur- inherited in 1541, by Laudomia’s the Bandusian Pond—a Baroque mounted by a continuous tympa- son, abbot Alessandro Pucci who pool dominated by a River God. At num. At its centre there’s a clock Triton Square one fi nds an elegant with the Caruso coat of arms, later fountain by Andreozzi and Franchi, replaced by that of De Michelis, the Neptune Ramp commissioned who otherwise refrained from alter- BEER FEST by Caruso, Tiger Avenue, fl anked by ations inside the house in efforts to valuable statues of wild animals, the keep the tenor’s memory. 3 PINTS FOR € 10,00 Lion Walk, presided over by mighty Other renovations were made stone lions which introduce the by the villa’s subsequent owners, hunting theme. among them the Gucci family, who from Monday Every corner of the garden hosts intended to make Bellosguardo a panoramic scenery, enriched by the fashion-promoting centre. The result to Friday until midnight

via dell’Oriuolo 5/r via Masaccio 29/r Firenze info 055 240 027 19 www.thefl orentine.net Life in Italy Thursday 5 October 2006 The ARTS A not-so-real Italian Neorealism? Artist reconsiders post-World War II poverty By Jessica Goethals

father carries his raggedly dressed child upon his shoul- Aders as his wife hangs behind, guiding along their other son and lugging the family’s only suitcase. The father solemnly dresses the youngest boy, whose eyes see not the soiled linens hanging behind him but instead reveal an eagerness to run off and play. The children perch side-by-side on the ground, their bare feet digging into the dirt of the cave they now must call home. Their parents wrap their arms around one another, both fi gures dwarfed by the cave’s rocky opening. ‘I prefer creating images that look the subjects should not be labeled Cena,’ shown at the FYR arte con- The series of 19 photographs as though they were from another in terms of either nationality or temporanea gallery last summer, recalls the 1940s Neorealist fi lms of era. I would like them to see that it class. While the artists intentionally followed DiDonato as he prepared Luchino Visconti, Roberto Rossel- can have a Mediterranean feel, the invoke the desperation of the 1940s the dinner that he was never able lini, or Vittorio De Sica. Were they look of another time and place,’ says and cultivate a Mediterranean feel, to have with his mother, who died shot in a deserted paese of southern Billington. If asked what she would they resist falling into all-too-typical when he was ten months old. Like Italy, thereby echoing these cin- like Italians to see in her work, she patterns in the portrayal of poverty. ‘The Cave,’ ‘La Cena’ was shot in ematographic forefathers in their responds, ‘The same thing.’ In this The work endeavors to present the Los Angeles, but Billington plans to strict adherence to the representa- the photographer is already enjoy- universality of both misfortune and begin her next project here. ‘I would tion of real people in their real envi- ing great success; the patrons and human graciousness in the face of like to recreate, as in La Terra Trema, ronments? Hardly. The pieces in visitors of Giubbe Rosse (where adversity. ‘A family is aborted from the Italian fi sherman community. I American photographer Nance Bill- the show celebrated its opening on their reality, normalcy, and social want to go to the South. I’ll shoot it ington’s latest show, ‘The Cave’ (‘La Sept. 23 as part of the caffè’s Artisti standing. They are left wanderers, in Puglia, I’ll shoot it in Sicily, but it Caverna’), were all shot at Franklin e Autori series, curated by Tiziano nameless and desolate,’ says DiDo- will be in Italy.’ Canyon, just outside Hollywood, Pecchioli) approach her with both nato, ‘Do we see the obvious? Are ‘La Caverna’ will be on exhibit at California. specifi c guesses as to the shoot loca- they destitute, fallen aristocracy, or Giubbe Rosse until Oct. 20 and can Billington, in collaboration with tion as well as memories of their gypsies?’ The photographer pur- be viewed during the caffè’s normal American artist Mario DiDonato, own regional landscapes. One visi- posefully seeks to allow for some hours of operation. ■ has recreated an atmosphere of tor, for example, told Billington that ambiguity regarding the identity of Italian post-war poverty and loss she has a picture from her youth in the family. There are signifi cant but from the shores of contemporary Calabria that uncannily resembles easily-overlooked clues dispersed ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Los Angeles, picturing the story of the terrain in the series’s penulti- throughout the pieces that suggest Giubbe Rosse is located in Piazza della a destitute family whose members, mate photograph. that perhaps it would be too easy to Repubblica, 13/14r constrained by hardship, live their Black and white fi lm, carefully brand the characters as archetypal. For more information on the Artisti e lives around the opening of the cave selected costumes, and a true fam- The aged undershirt of the father Autori series, visit: in which they now live. The pho- ily of four—DiDonato, his wife Tnah, contrasts with the costly violin case www.giubberosse.it . tographs depict their disconsolate and their children Domenico, six, at his feet, for example, just as the arrival, the necessity of establishing and Paolo, four, were her mod- unexpected elegance of the suitcase Jessica Goethals is a doctoral student of a daily routine, the protectiveness of els—are just some of the tools that is dissonant with the dusty corner Italian Literature. She is residing in Flor- the parents and the resiliency of the Billington uses in her recreations. of the cave entrance in which it has ence this year while completing research children, the importance of love and Although the series does evoke been left. at New York University’s Villa La Pietra. faith, and the new beginning that Italian Neorealism, Billington and ‘The Cave’ is Billington’s sec- follows a tragic ending. DiDonato are careful to specify that ond show in Florence. Her fi rst, ‘La 20 Thursday 5 October 2006 Life in Italy www.thefl orentine.net Food & WINE FOODIE’S CORNER: ‘Squashed’ bread with grapes Fall in Florence means schiacciata con l’uva By Kara Hoffman

he turn of the seasons signifi es many things: the THERE ARE MANY WONDERFUL FORNI ON beginning of a new year T NEARLY EVERY CORNER OF THE CITY. A FEW for academics, the emergence of a new wardrobe for the fashion TO TRY INCLUDE: world, and the end of a harvest for vintners. The annual wine Forno Top, Via Della Spada, 23/R, grape harvest, or la vendemmia, Il Forno Sartoni, Via dei Cerchi 34r, that takes place each year at the Il Forno, Via San Gallo 147r, end of September is, for many, one of the most important times Pane e focacce, Via de’ Macci 65r, of the year. To both signify and Panetteria, Via de’ Neri 5r, celebrate this event, the fall Panifi cio, Via della Spada 39r, wine harvest for a panettiere, or baker, means schiacciata con Panifi cio Chiappi, Borgo la Croce 43-45r, l’uva, or focaccia with grapes. Quattrocchi, Via Santa Monica 3r, Focaccia is a term univer- Il Fornaio di Galli, Via Matteo Palmieri 24r sally recognized, and people around the world know that the and Via Faenza 39r. best focaccia bread comes from Italy. Dating back more than Kara Hoffman is a freelance food and travel writer 2,000 years, the name focaccia based in New York City. Having previously lived in is derived from the Latin word focacia, meaning hearth or Florence, she frequently travels to Italy to enjoy to fi reside. Similarly, the name is food and culture taken from the Roman phrase panis focacius, which referred to a fl at loaf of bread cooked upon a hearth or to give focaccia unique con l’uva is the traditional focaccia, made with under the ashes of a fi re. Focaccia dough is simi- tastes and fl avors. In sweet and juicy grapes. lar in both style and texture to pizza dough, com- Genoa, what some call ‘Schiacciata’ comes from the Italian verb schi- the birthplace of focac- prised of high-gluten fl our, oil, water, sugar, salt acciare, meaning literally ‘to fl atten’ and is the cia, focaccia dough is and yeast; however, it’s the baking process that term affectionately used for focaccia in Tuscany. gives focaccia its unique taste. The bread is typi- infused with olive oil, Schiacciata con l’uva is a bread-makers celebra- cally rolled out or pressed by hand into a thick fl attened and shaped by layer of dough and then baked in a stone oven hand, giving it its signa- tion of the fall wine grape harvest, and during or on a hearth, lending to its name origin. Dur- ture ‘dimples,’ and baked the months of September and October, schiac- ing the baking process, bread-makers carefully with another generous pour of olive oil. Further ciata con l’uva can be found in forni (bake shops) puncture the bread to eliminate any unwanted south, in the birthplace of pizza, Naples, focac- throughout the city of Florence. The focaccia bubbles that may make the bread deviate from its cia tends to take on more similarities of classic dough is molded and pressed with the bakers’ traditional form. pizza, with the dough topped with oil, a splash of hands and the grapes are generously scattered Historically, focaccia bread was associated tomato sauce and oregano. In fact, each area has over the dough and as the baking process begins, with religious ceremonies, like Christmas Eve and perfected its ‘own’ focaccia. In Sanremo, sarde- the grapes began to cook and the juices become other Catholic celebrations, such as the Epiphany. naira is fl avored with sardines and anchovies, absorbed in the bread, rendering a sweet and However, the traditional focaccia bread of the focaccia al formaggio from Recco is infused with savory treat. past began to take on new forms from the North fresh and tangy stracchino cheese, and fi tascetta to the South in Italy as ingredients such as herbs, from Lombardy is baked with red onions and a cheeses, meats, vegetables and honey were added sugary topping. Finally, in Tuscany, schiacciata 21 www.thefl orentine.net Life in Italy Thursday 5 October 2006 Food & WINE

INSALATA DI FUNGHI PORCINI Guess what’s This is a lovely way to prepare porcini. A simple unadorned salad of fresh, raw mushrooms. Find a coming to dinner pretty serving dish because this salad has fl air! Funghi porcini caps, thinly sliced Olive oil Having your way Salt and pepper with porcini nipetella leaves FUNGHI PORCINI ALLA GRIGLIA Clean mushrooms well and slice thinly, cutting right Perhaps the favored way to serve porcini for true afi ciona- through the mushroom cap, thereby giving the By Arlene Ridolfi Valentine dos—grilling is an easy way to prepare and enjoy them in slices a full outline of the mushroom with all of its their purest form. Here’s what you need to serve four: color gradations. Arrange the slices in one layer on a serving platter. When ready to serve, drizzle olive he beach house is closed for the season. The 1 large porcini per person oil over the mushrooms, followed by a few pinches rientro is complete and everyone is back in the 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped of salt and liberal grindings of black pepper. Sprinkle Tcity where school and work schedules once Olive oil with nipetella leaves. Serve as an arranged salad, again dictate the rhythm of daily life. What’s the A few sprigs of nipetella (a minty, woody herb, member perhaps with some grilled meat and a hearty Tuscan fi rst thing a Tuscan cook thinks about in autumn? of the thyme family that is always available alongside red wine. That’s the question I asked of Valeria Bruni, a porcini in the markets) busy author and art professor who is also a passion- ate cook. Her answer was instantaneous. ‘Funghi Clean the porcini by wiping them carefully with a damp porcini,’ she said with a big smile. ‘I am always so cloth. Remove stems and save them for use in other reci- happy in September because I can eat porcini as pes. In a small bowl, combine garlic, nipetella and olive oil. often as I like for an entire month!’ Living in Florence, we’ve got easy access to Set aside. Place the porcini over a hot grill on a rack which these highly sought-after mushrooms, called Bol- has been covered with aluminum foil. (The foil keeps the etus Edulis in Latin (from the stem bolet meaning delicate skins from sticking to the rack and tearing as they ‘superior mushroom’ and edulis meaning ‘edible’). are turned). Turn after 3-4 minutes and grill for 3-4 minutes The Sant’Ambrogio and San Lorenzo markets are more. Drizzle the olive oil mixture over them and serve with FUNGHI PORCINI FRITTI grilled steak and a hearty red Tuscan wine. great sources of porcini, which are found in pine This is a great autumn appetizer or cocktail party and hardwood forest areas that provide the shady snack. Make lots of these—they’re a big hit. environment in which they thrive. Their harvest, Note: A great option for vegetarians, porcini cooked in this tied to periods of rainfall, occurs from late summer way (often referred to as ‘poor man’s steak’ ) can stand on its own as a main dish. Porcini caps, thinly sliced into autumn. Flour Porcini look the way mushrooms should look, Olive oil as if a little gnome might peek out from behind the stem at any moment. With fat white stalks topped Clean porcini well and slice, but do not slice too by broad brown caps, they can be quite large, up to thin or the slices will either fall apart while frying or six inches or more across the cap. Their size plays become too crisp. Dip each slice into fl our and then an important role in deciding how to prepare them fry quickly (about a minute or two) in hot olive oil. (giant caps for grilling and smaller ones for sauces Remove from oil and allow to rest on paper towels and salads). Porcini have a higher water content in order to remove excess oil. Arrange on a platter than other mushrooms; their texture is smooth and and serve immediately. they have a nutty, earthy aroma. When buying porcini, how can you fi nd the FUNGHI TRIFOLATE youngest and freshest? For one thing, the pores A quick and easy recipe for a delicious pasta sauce using porcini. Tagliatelle is the pasta of choice for this dish. These golden on the underside of the caps are white when young ribbons provide a perfect nest for the bits of porcini to cling to. To serve four you would need: and fade to yellow and then brown with age. Also, the older the mushroom, the higher the water 250 grams tagliatelle Clean porcini and chop into bite-sized pieces. In a large frying pan, content, so the weight and feel can indicate the 800 grams porcini, tops and stems sauté garlic in olive oil for a few minutes over low heat, until soft but dampness level. If the water content is too high, 4-5 tablespoons olive oil not brown. Add the chopped porcini and stir well. Add a few pinches of the mushroom won’t have the fi rm texture that it 2 small cloves of garlic, pressed salt and pepper as well as the nipetella leaves. Cover and sauté over low should have. A sprig of nipetella heat for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms Here are four of Valeria’s recipes, each of them Salt and pepper are soft. Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to boil, add some salt and simple, pure and easy to prepare. the tagliatelle and cook for about 3 minutes. Drain the pasta and put it directly into the frying pan with the cooked porcini. Gently stir and Buon Appetito! tumble the pasta to coat every strand with the fl avorful sauce. Serve immediately accompanied by a hearty Tuscan red wine.

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Christobel Kent Florentine Crime, Florentine Retribution “A Florentine Revenge” John Cooper discovers a haunting murder mystery

said, I killed him,’ she said, and her Celia’s routine, slightly melancholic life dreaming of slim hips and green silk. ‘Ivoice was light and cool as though becomes embroiled in a terrible sequence The lives of Kent’s characters hinge on a it was trying to fl oat free from her body, of discoveries from which she cannot recognizable normality. where the bones pressed painfully against escape. Except two. Lucas and Emma Marsh her paper skin. Outside a siren screamed Leading her clients and the reader are shrouded in the mysteries of the inef- in close, and another, and the fl ashing through the churches, galleries, streets fably rich and beautiful. Celia and Luisa blue of a light swept around the bar. and cafés of Florence, this ordinary girl look at them with prying eyes, wonder- What if the nature of a city could cre- is exposed to, and exposes, a Florence ing, imagining, but never getting to the ate its own crimes? What if a dark heart of disconcerting and perverse extremes: heart of what makes them so mysterious, of Florence could give rise to its own, oppressive heat and biting cold; cultural enigmatic, and intriguing. peculiar, species of murder and revenge? wealth and social dearth; love, children, Florence, or something inherent in Those are disconcerting, probing ques- marriage; hate, infanticide, struggle. the city’s fabric, succeeds where Celia tions at the heart of Christobel Kent’s A Florentine Revenge is not a schol- and others fail. Gradually the secrets tragic thriller and fourth novel, A Flo- arly work—nor does it pretend to be. Its unravel and the climactic suspense of rentine Revenge. ecphrases, visual descriptions and evoca- a good murder mystery builds. Those ‘Every city has its secrets and every tions are unremarkable, but that seems readers who enjoy cliff-hangers will have crime its retribution,’ exclaims its sub- partly to be Kent’s point. Celia and her them two a penny here. Correspondingly, title, and Celia, the novel’s tour-guide ex-patriot acquaintances (Dan the jour- Florence becomes littered with a trail of protagonist, is caught in both. Beginning nalist and academic; Beate the enig- morbid images which, one at fi rst fears, with an intriguing and not altogether matic, beautiful tour guide and painter) then slowly realizes, are the unnerving comfortable telephone exchange with are coupled by Italian types—Luisa, for traits of a city that may revenge its own a hugely wealthy English businessman, example, who sells frocks in Frollini’s, crimes and exact its own retribution. Florence’s BUSINESS CARDS

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Contact via e-mail: tial title for the possible candidate. Start of Chianti, only 15 km from Florence. fl oor, spacious open plan living/dining, [email protected] date : late October 2006 (or earlier). Surrounded by a large park and olive grotto cellar at rear. Upstairs 2 bed- Send CV to: [email protected] grove, swimming pool. 4-6 person fl ats rooms, bathroom. Euro 140.000,00 Resident accommodations in the San for rent for brief periods, completely fur- completely restored. Photos, descrip- Frediano neighbourhood. Independ- Looking for a university qualifi ed and nished. Quiet, family-style atmosphere. tions both properties www.montalcino- ent building with 31 rooms complete experienced teacher of special needs Landlords available on site for any tuscany.com/property.htm. Private sale. with bathroom, air-conditioning, elec- for private tutoring work. Please contact needs. Tel. 333.2203265, Luigi 348 2422509 tronic entrance keys, winter and summer Janelle Alexander from Chatterbox at e-mail [email protected] courtyard, small car park and an exclu- 3295890695 or email janellealexander Located in the Municipality of Lam- sive guest house 300 meters away. Also @virgilio.it porecchio (Pistoia), in the heart of the guests universities and colleges for both Services/Servizi Montalbano hills. Colonial house in- brief and long periods. For more infor- Seeking TEFL Certifi ed mother tongue Want an instant offi ce? Spacious and cludes 3 units plus 2 independent units. mation write to [email protected] or send teachers for academic year 2006/2007. bright room in offi ce building in Galluzzo 32-acre lot with 4,000 olive trees, vine- a fax to 055/2336990. Please send CV asap to our Institute in (halfway between Porta Romana and yards and woods. Beautiful hilly location Florence at: [email protected] Certosa). ADSL connection and tele- with view of the valley. For information A large room with private bathroom phone line. Short period (min 3 months) contact [email protected] with use of kitchen & sitting room in a Private Lessons/Lezioni Private and longer. Max fl exibility. For inquiries large & bright fl at equipped with every [email protected] Loft For Sale in Prato. 2 lofts near comfort (also for very short period, Italian individual lessons in Florence. historic centre, each 137 sqm, ideal close to piazza Gavinana), write to elia. Sharpen your grammar to enjoy conver- Body Language Pilates Studio. 20 for home offi ce. We can show layout [email protected] sation. Fluent English, Japanese, French group classes weekly taught in English and location. For information, e-mail spoken. Call Alberto and his Japanese featuring “Yoga Fridays”, near Centro. [email protected] Lovely large 1 bedroom apartment for wife Fumiko, tel. 055-475152, Call D. Clark 335.790.4029 rent near Piazza della Signoria (Historic www.azlanguage.it - [email protected] Owner of a hamlet in Tuscany is look- center). Renovated with hardwood Do you have diffi culties putting to- ing for residents/investors over fi fty fl oors throughout. Fully furnished and Private oil painting lessons in English gether your resume and cover letter? I who are looking for privacy, strict rules eqipped. Large eat in kitchen, Close to near Teatro Goldoni. Still life subject, am a graduate of Cambridge University, and exclusive environment. The hamlet all amenities. Short or long term. Con- canvas, paints and easel supplied. All UK, and have helped numerous people needs partial restoration and is made tact: [email protected] or call levels welcome. For more information get interviews for jobs with the help of a up of 30 fl ats with park and lake. It’s 347.3737616 please contact Cathy at 055.2207171/ well-written resume and cover letter. For located in the Municipality of Barberino 338.1499392 50 euro, I will meet with you, and write a di Mugello. 1 km from the Poggiolino Apartments in Florence City center resume and cover letter. Contact Cassie exit, just a few minutes from Lake Bilan- newly renovated and furnished to rent Expert craftsman offers individual at [email protected] cino/Outlet/Golf Course/Race Track. short and long period. Available now. or group classes in English or Ital- 550 acres with sports area, clubhouse, Call Laura 336472121, or e-mail farro. ian. Introduction to chiselling and Computer SOS will solve all compu- centralized services. Fax 055/2336990. [email protected] embossing-theory and practice. ter/Internet related problems, including Email: [email protected] Introduction to technical design. ADSL. Will come to your home.Speaks Costa San Giorgio Apartments offers Call Fabrizio 338.5060720 or write and reads English fl uently. for rent 8 quality apartments in Florence, [email protected] Corrado 320.0932811 Housing for Rent/Immobili in Affi tto in front of Ponte Vecchio, renovated and Near Piazzale Michelangelo secretly furnished with style. Small and large Leather Crafting Classes. Scuola del Enjoy a relaxing massage in the pri- hidden with private garden and only apartments are equipped with all com- Cuoio offers short-term (3 hours/1-2 vacy of your home… Contact Daniele, 15 minute walk to center. 2 bedroom, forts. Short or long term, minimum for 3 days) & long-term (1 wk to 10 mths) expert of “Californian Trager” technique, 2 bath. Fully furnished, long term days. Call +39-0574/38418-22763 - co individual courses and classes under a soft massage against tiredness and rental only. 1,900 euro/month. Jud- stasangiorgiofl orence@costasangiorgio. a Master Leather Craftsman inside the stress. It lasts 1 hour and it’s made with ieanne Colusso + 39.335.839-0712, it -www.costasangiorgio.it Monastery of Santa Croce, via San perfumed body oil or cream. [email protected], Giuseppe 5 (thru the garden). Enquiries: Phone# 340-3921407. www.coloursoftuscany.com tel. 055.244.533 or info@leatherschool. Business for Sale/Attività Commerciali com. For more info. visit: www.leather- Large one bedroom apartment, Children’s clothing manufacturer school.com Personals/Personali fi rst fl oor, furnished, quiet, bathroom, looking to sell business. Thirty-year- Reliable, 31-year-old Australian look- kitchenwith separate lounge dining, in old establishment produces clothing Private Jewelry Lessons in English. ing for English teaching, babysitting, historic palazzo. Suitable for students/ for children from ages 1 to 12 and is Max 2 students per lesson, 3x 4hour waitressing or computer assistance teachers, long term. Euro 800 e.p.m. equipped with the necessary equipment lessons per week, Minimum 1 Month work during July and August in Florence. Judieanne Colusso + 39.335.839- for production. The company has a large course, From Introduction to Advanced Tel. 055.4201948 / 339.1684177 0712, [email protected] client portfolio with buyers in Italy and Jewelry Techniques. Lessons given in abroad. For more information send an English by a professional Jewelry Crafts- French young woman offers baby-sit- Tranquil 3 bedroom apartment of 160 email to [email protected] man. Cost:48 hour month course – ting and help for homework. Available sq. m., fi rst fl oor, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, 600 euro. Ph 347.3724754. nights after 19:00, mornings until 10:00 overlooking beautiful garden in historic Jobs Wanted/Cerco lavoro and week ends. Please contact centre. Garage. Euro 2000 e.p.m. Chatterbox is looking to form a group Camille: 347.6048907 Judieanne Colusso + 39.335.839- Experienced young woman (30) would of advanced English (ESL) students 0712, [email protected] take care of your children. French moth- for a challenging and fun conversa- Florence choir currently seeking er tongue, very good Italian, very good tion class based on current events. women’s voices. For info please call: Studio Flat for rent. Kitchenette, ter- English. Available full time from October Please contact Janelle Alexander at 335/6530463. http://www.geocities. race with view of Duomo, bathroom 1st. Camille 347.6048907 3295890695 or email com/singmerrymaidens/about.html with bath. Very quiet and central. Near [email protected] Santa Croce and San Ambrogio. 680 I am looking for a home-based and/or euro per month (all included). 1 person internet job. Am English speaking and Would you like to learn how to write Household Items for Sale/ only. Maximum 3 months. Contact: have good knowledge of Italian. Please short stories and novels? Experienced [email protected] contact [email protected] creative writing professor offers inspira- Oggetti in Vendita tional private lessons. 329.2945876 Woman’s bicycle for sale. Classic Florentinefl ats.com offers quality English-speaking female, having good knowledge of Italian, looking for style. Never been used. 150 euro nego- apartments in Florence city centre tiable. Contact: [email protected] at affordable prices, short and long part-time employment in administration. Kindly contact 3401447898 Leisure & Vacation/ term rentals, minimum 5 days. Call Tempo libero e vacanze Bargain! for sale: Sangiorgio dish- Rachel 348.0457857 / 055.685661, American 57 good Italian is looking for washer almost unused (guarantee till [email protected] a position as caretaker in property/es- B&B in Poggio al Vento. Located in 2010), Necchi Sewing machine used tablishment/house. Speaks good Italian, a splendid nineteenth century villa. once. Hand sewn antique Indian silk bed is quite willing to adapt. Driver, handy- Includes two master bedrooms and a spread etc. Contact: [email protected] man, personal care giver .Will be free welcoming double bedroom. Poggio al from mid October. robmaria77@yahoo. Veneto is a small company that deals in com [email protected] organic agriculture, in the hills of Scand-