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SUMMER 2021 ART & CULTURE FOOD TRAVEL News and views from Pimlico We discover the ancient art of How to give your al fresco 100 years on, our writer and beyond, featuring the best mudlarking with practical tips feasts an Asian twist according rediscovers the Scott openings and upcoming events from devotee, Nick Stevens to Masaki Sugisaki Fitzgerald's French Riviera

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STUDIO, ONE, TWO, AND THREE-BEDROOM APARTMENTS Located in Pimlico, central London, Zone 1, Dolphin Square is an all-rental development with 24/7 security and an Welcome on-site management team. Rental apartments available, furnished or unfurnished, to suit all budgets. From £295 per week. We've decided to mix things up by taking a seasonal approach rather than picking a specific theme for our fourteenth issue; as a result, these pages LETTINGS OPENING HOURS Monday to Thursday 8am-7pm are filled with nothing but feel-good summer stories – and a healthy dash of Friday 9am-6pm inspiration too. Who isn't in need of some new memories to replace the tragic, Saturday 9am-1pm tedious experiences of the pandemic? So round up all those friends you've most missed for an Asian-inspired picnic, set off on some of Blighty's best weekends Outside these hours by appointment only away and tramp the banks of the Thames in search of secrets from the past, then reward yourself with a pint at your favourite pub. This summer is all about CALL US rediscovering the joy of the little things we once took for granted – and boy, is Natalia – 07841 764 901 London a beautiful city in which to do so. Alberto – 07710 713 348

Contributors:

Imogen Lepere Lucy Kehoe Ian Belcher Hannah Summers Editor Contributor Contributor Contributor After four years as senior Lucy Kehoe is a freelance Award-winning writer Ian Travel journalist Hannah writer at Food and Travel, lifestyle and environmental Belcher has spent the last 25 Summers may have spent Imogen Lepere is making journalist who has previously years reporting from various most of her career exploring the most of freelance life penned for The Spectator points on the map, while far-flung destinations but by travelling everywhere and Geographical. In this also working as a Guardian with a new partner on the from Melbourne to issue, she tries her hand columnist and magazine scene – that’s her Romanian Mongolia. As travel at mudlarking along the editor. For our summer rescue pup, Bobby Jean restrictions remain in Thames with the help of issue, he heads to the French – she’s happily exploring place, she makes the case expert Nick Stevens (p.8) Riviera to see what's left of much closer to home. Here for Asian food being the and gives us the scoop on the Jazz Age a century after she shares her ultimate secret to a perfect British London's loveliest ice cream the Bright Young Things first dog-friendly weekend picnic (p.20). parlours (p.14). packed their trunks (p.28). breaks (p. 36). Dolphin Square Chichester Street, London SW1V 3LX 2 2 [email protected] Design & Art Direction: Hutton Farquhar huttonfarquhar.com Cover image by: Sheri Silver on Unsplash 3 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 14 SUMMER

Summer Sun Contents by Robert Louis Stevenson

Great is the sun, and wide he goes Inside this issue: Through empty heaven with repose; And in the blue and glowing days More thick than rain he showers his rays.

Though closer still the blinds we pull To keep the shady parlour cool, Yet he will find a chink or two To slip his golden fingers through. 26 The dusty attic spider-clad GET FIT FAST He, through the keyhole, maketh glad; With gyms finally open, And through the broken edge of tiles fitness instructor Owen Into the laddered hay-loft smiles. 14 Harradine shares simple circuits for THE INSIDE maximum results. Meantime his golden face around SCOOP He bares to all the garden ground, And sheds a warm and glittering look In summer we all scream for ice cream, so Lucy Among the ivy's inmost nook. Kehoe has scoured 36 London's parlours to Above the hills, along the blue, serve you the best. A WELL Round the bright air with footing true, 8 EARNED PAWS To please the child, to paint the rose, TREASURES The gardener of the World, he goes. What could be better OF THE THAMES than discovering Great Ever since humans Britain with your pup have walked the banks at your side? Hannah of the Thames they've Summers suggests five dropped things into it. canine-friendly escapes. Unearth their secrets with expert mudlarker 28 Nick Stevens. THE BEAUTIFUL, THE DAMNED AND THE REAL RIVIERA

20 Ian Belcher visits some of F. Scott Fitzgerald's EASTERN PROMISE favourite haunts along With its sizzling street the French Riviera to see bites, fragrant herbs and what's left of the Jazz succulent seafood, Asian Age's glamour. flavours might just create the perfect picnic, says Imogen Lepere.

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LOCAL NEWS, OUT & ABOUT LOCAL NEWS, OUT & ABOUT PIMLICO PIMLICO

HOT TICKETS

Feeling fresco Three cheers for festival season and what a show London is putting on. We're particularly excited to eat our way around top restaurants at Taste of London in Regent’s Park between 7-11 and 14-18 July and for Kaleidoscope, which will see stars such as Groove Armada and author Irvine Welsh perform in Alexandra Palace's gardens, 24 July.

london.tastefestivals.com kaleidoscope-festival.com

The perfect match London’s restaurants have really while away a Saturday afternoon embraced the terrace trend and over classic French food and The smell of a freshly chalked try line, there are more options for al excellent wine, while Daffodil the roar of the crowd, fan banter… fresco feasting than ever before. Mulligan, chef Richard Corrigan’s There's so much we’ve missed about Pimlico stalwart La Poule au Pot’s Irish-inspired spot, recently live sport and this summer sees handful of tables on Orange opened a buzzy 28-seat terrace a slew of matches of gladiatorial Square are the perfect place to that's ideal for work drinks. proportions. India will face New Zealand in the ICC World Test pouleaupot.co.uk daffodilmulligan.com Championship final at Lords (18-22 June), Wimbledon will delight tennis fans (18 June-11 July) and the final of Euro 2020 is coming to Wembley (11 July). Buckle up. Through the looking glass Photo by Shep McAllister on Unsplash icc-cricket.com wimbledon.com uefa.com Tumble down the rabbit hole into one of this season’s most exciting exhibitions. Alice in Wonderland (27 March-31 December) at the V&A celebrates 150 years since the book was first published through film, LET’S DANCE performance, fashion and art, including Salvador Dali’s surrealist sketches of the characters. Dust off your dancing shoes and practice your cha cha – Baby has been in the corner for too long. SMOOTH AND SIZZLING Secret Cinema is recreating the Seventies holiday resort from Dirty With more than 19 years experience in impressive Dancing for an immersive theatre names such as Nobu and Zuma, chef Padam Raj Rai event this summer. It promises to be is well placed to bring sublime sushi and just seared a ball. 14 July-31 August. £49. wagyu to residents of Pimlico and Belgravia. Hot Stone's interiors are as refined as its food – expect secretcinema.org blonde wood panelling and artwork by 18th century painter Hokusai Katsushika.

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It’s early morning and London’s skies are a poltergeist- shade of grey. A low tide has left the Thames meandering lethargically eastwards, exposing the edges of the riverbed. I’m standing under Battersea Bridge on a strip of shingled land that loops towards central London, disappearing under Albert Bridge’s steel swags. The foreshore is almost empty, bar a lone figure, orange supermarket bag slung around his wrist. A mudlarker.

Ever since humans have walked the banks of the Thames, they’ve dropped things into it. Whether intentionally discarded or accidentally lost in the swirling waters, countless personal artefacts, building materials and mundane household furnishings have been swallowed by London’s famous waterway.

Mudlarks – those hunched scavengers you’ll spot scampering over the foreshore – have long scoured the river’s edges looking for treasure. The moniker was first used to describe impoverished Victorians searching the transient beaches for disused rope and metal nails to exchange for food scraps. Today, their occupational descendants seek out objects with a different worth: those TREASURES with historical value. Nick Stevens first started combing the foreshore in 2008. Often armed with little more than wellies and a of the Thames trowel, he’s spent the last 13 years looking for antiquities relinquished by the waters. Childhood fossil-hunting From Georgian clay pipes to Roman vanity pins, primed him for prehistoric spots; some of his first the shingled foreshore of the River Thames is a finds were ammonite and sea urchin fossils. Later, a megalodon tooth from the dagger-like gnashers of a vast graveyard of London’s lost items which tell gigantic shark which would have hunted Europe’s tropical a changing story of the city’s past. waters approximately 3.6 to 26 million years ago. “With Lucy Kehoe joins the mudlarks mudlarking, there are an infinite number of possible things you could find,” says Stevens. “Or that’s what it seems. That’s the beauty of the Thames, the randomness of it all.”

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hats, hold shawls and prevent trailing hems. “A lot of what we find are personal items, things owned NICK STEVEN’S by the every-person,” Stevens says. “The pins are so small you’ve really got to be nose-to-the-mud MUDLARKING to see them. But once you’ve spotted one, that’s it – you’ll spot another and another.” TIPS Any finds older than 300 years must be reported to the Museum of London and catalogued. Most items are sent back to their finder, though those of historical note might be retained. For Stevens, mudlarking is about revealing unknown aspects of the past. “There’s things that we’ve found that have literally changed the way academics look at history,” he says.

My morning adventure is short. Inexperienced with the tidal lurches of the Thames, I play it safe and skirt the river wall, untrained eyes struggling “With mudlarking, there are to pick out items of interest amid the archive an infinite number of possible of rubble. But then, an-inch-long bone-white cylinder glimmers. It’s a fragment of a clay pipe, SHARPENING YOUR EYE Mudlarking is much easier when you know probably Georgian, the equivalent of an 18th things you could find,” what you’re looking for – often the best century cigarette butt. Retracing my steps, I cross way to find things is to scan an area for paths with the lone mudlarker again. His orange recognisable shapes. Try Thames Discovery bag pulls at his wrist, treasures hidden within. A professional photographer by trade, Stevens’ Anyone can walk the foreshore but to mudlark – Programme's guided tours. new book, Thames Mudlarking, showcases the vast or ‘search’ – requires a Port of London Authority array of artefacts discovered along the foreshore. permit. A keen knowledge of the river’s accessible thamesdiscovery.org From munitions and mutton bones to Anglo Saxon steps and slipways is also necessary. Beginners can battle wear, the discoveries of these riverside start at the well-maintained Bankside steps. Even BE PREPARED archaeologists provide a glimpse into London’s there, separated from the dizzying noise of 21st Wellies will keep you dry and mud-free, past. Swords from the Middle Ages, Roman hair century London, ghosts feel a little closer to hand, while gloves can protect you from picking pins and dandy Georgian cuff links – paste stones the past almost tangible. “It’s another world,” says up anything nasty. The PLA provides a map still sparkling – have all been pulled from the mud. Stevens. “In the summer, we do night tides with just of use able foreshore access points on Stevens’ last mudlarking adventure turned up two a head torch. That’s when you feel the connection their website but bear in mind that not all fingernail-sized Tudor farthings and a few cannon with the past much more – you can almost feel the are regularly maintained. In some areas – balls. During one particularly low tide, he found a city's spirits”. such as the foreshore below the Palace of Mesolithic flint axe head. “I realised I was the first Westminster – access is forbidden. Although person to pick it up since the last person and that In 2009, when scouting the Isle of Dogs, he found anyone can stroll along the foreshore, was 10,000 years ago”. two hollowed out eye sockets glaring up at him – a human skull. The skeleton belonged to a searching and removing historic finds Together, these finds knit an alternative narrative 12-year-old girl. Police analysis dated the burial to requires a permit. Day passes (£40) and of London’s history than the one taught in schools. around 1730. Her teeth showed signs of arrested three-year permits(£90) are sold by the PLA It’s a past that feels more personal and less distant. development, suggesting malnutrition (a common pla.co.uk Stevens’ book, written with fellow mudlarker Jason cause of death in the 18th century). With help from Sandy, is full of small oddities and intimate details. the Thames Discovery organisation, Stevens raised A bust of the roman emperor Hadrian, dated to the entire skeleton eight months later. It had been TIDE CHECKS AD 122, depicts him with a moustache reminiscent perfectly preserved under the mud, right down to The foreshore is only accessible during low of 70s facial hair, while a 600-year-old pointed the lost soul’s tiny finger bones. tide, with a safe window of around two hours medieval shoe pulled from the mud still had its either side. Always stay close to an access owner’s footprint visible on the sole. More modern Finds aren’t always so dramatic, but everyday point and be actively aware of the incoming finds are no less poignant: it’s common to discover objects still offer a closer connection to the past. tide. It’s a good idea to let someone know abandoned wedding rings and tossed lockets. Most discoveries, particularly those in central Nick Stevens and Jason Sandy’s book, Thames where you are going in case of emergencies. Bottles, carefully sealed to keep handwritten London, are handmade. Take Tudor pins: the minute mudlarking: searching for London’s lost notes safe, contain the dreams, aspirations and items, each individually produced, are plentiful from treasures (Shire Publications, £9.99) is out now. tidetimes.org.uk frustrations of Londoners past and present. Putney down to Wapping. They were used to fix 10 11 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 14 SUMMER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 14 SUMMER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 14 SUMMER

Why not discover...

One of London’s lesser known museums is blooming once again with a new exhibition celebrating the life of floral designer Constance Spry. However, the Garden Museum’s building is as fascinating as the 1,000 artefacts that lie within it. It is located on the site of an 11th century church in the gardens of Lambeth Palace, the final resting place of John Tradescant the Elder, who penetrated far flung lands collecting seeds in the 17th century. His travels inspire the exotic courtyard designed by Dan Pearson that lies at the heart of the property. Among the foliage, spot the tombs of John Tradescant as well as the hapless William Bligh, captain of the naval ship HMS Bounty during one of the most infamous mutinies of all time.

£10 for museum entry. gardenmuseum.org.uk

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Ice Cream Union Arctic Circle

London’s best at Soft serve from the Ice Cream Union Arctic Circle at Bear’s Belgravia Ravenscourt Park

Bermondsey-made for 12 years, Ice Cream Despite their proximity to glacial landscapes Union’s first step on their gelato-selling journey Iceland’s inhabitants have a soft spot for ice was supplying London’s top restaurants. When cream, with frozen skyr stores and soft-serve it became clear everyone wanted a lick of their stations found across Reykjavík. The latter is small batch beauties, they opened a parlour in the inspiration behind this north-west London scoop Belgravia. Wander into the Pavilion Road store parlour where glacial whips take on gargantuan Sub-zero tubs, sophisticated flavour and you’ll find up to 20 flavours on the board at proportions. The swirled base of Bear’s iced swaps and Icelandic-inspired soft any one time. Unlike other parlours, there’s no delights is merely a foundation for further purées and concentrates in Ice Cream Union’s indulgence. After ordering a cone topped with the serve are just some of the iced products: they only use raw fruit. Mango sorbet silky pyramid, you’re invited to pick a kaleidoscope delights putting a twist on the is made from Alphonso fruits, lemons are hand- of toppings – runny lemon curd, summer berry squeezed in Sicily and their melon sorbet can trace coulées, fresh herbs, fruit slices, total chocolate classic cone at London’s quirkiest it’s watermelons back to a single family-owned dips, a plethora of sprinkles, crushed honeycomb, farm in Mantua. blueberry meringue kisses and so much more – ice cream parlours. Lucy Kehoe welcome to the decadence of Arctic soft serve.

serves up seven of the best… 25-min walk, 40-mins via Victoria and District lines; 166 Pavilion Rd, SW1X 0AW 244 Goldhawk Rd, W12 9PE 14 15 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 14 SUMMER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 14 SUMMER

La Gelataria Mamasons Olivogelo

Sophisticated flavour Filipino favourites Sardinian excellence swaps at La Gelataria at Mamasons at Olivogelo Covent Garden Soho Victoria

Ice cream has always inspired creativity when Ignore Italy’s dominance over gelato: some of the There’s no rules at this Victoria parlour – it comes to flavour but too often experimental best ice creams out there come from international breakfasts, as on the continent, are a strong coffee scoops can deliver Frankenstein results rather than takes on the classic scoop. Chinatown’s Mamasons and a scoop of tangerine granita sandwiched the godly gastronomic creations aspired to. Not so pays tribute to the Philippines sorbet street between two halves of brioche bun, while at Covent Garden’s La Gelataria. Here, Calabrian hawkers through its vivid violet tube ice cream. voluptuous curls of sharp green apple sorbet make owner Antonio employs sophisticated flavour The dessert is popular in the city of Manila, thanks a refreshing mid-morning treat. Afternoon snack? swapping to produce delectable combinations of to its distinctive, nutty taste (the result of purple Make it a slice of warm panettone topped with pear and parmesan, smooth Cornish blue scoops yam). Step inside their pastel parlour on Newport a scoop. True to his Sardinian roots, Olivogelo’s studded with caramelised walnuts and the robust Court and you can pile up scoop towers, matching Mauro Sanna uses ingredients shipped weekly bitterness of watercress dancing alongside zesty the purple swirls with other Filipino favourites of from Cagliari to churn island favourites: bitter lime notes. The top scoop on offer? Try earthy zesty calamansi sorbet, charcoal-coloured black miele di corbezzo honey (from the strawberry porcini mushrooms and chocolate, brought coconut and salty queso (cheese) ice cream. tree) is swirled into frozen natural yoghurt while together by a generous glug of coffee cream. generous chunks of traditional Sardinian nougat hide under nutty gelato peaks. 25-mins via Victoria and Piccadilly lines; 20-mins via Victoria and Piccadilly lines; 20min walk, 27 New Row, WC2N 4LA 32 Newport Court, WC2H 7PQ 10 Lower Belgrave St, SW1W 0LJ

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Gelup Chin Chin Labs

Chef-approved Sub-Zero Specials at scoops at Gelupo, Chin Chin Labs Soho Camden

Sister establishment to Italian bistro Bocca di Lupo, Whipped and chilled to a frosty -196o C using sub- Gelupo’s sophisticated iced offering is influenced zero nitrogen, Camden’s Chin Chin parlour serves by the chef behind its scoops. Jacob Kennedy’s up sumptuously smooth scoops so glossy they look rich and creamy gelato mirrors what you’d expect polished to perfection. Rather than cones, hefty to inhale on a side street of the Imperial City. balls of floral Parma violet and speckled pumpkin The classics are on point – soft peaks of bitter seed ice cream are served over crumbled cookies, chocolate, heady Tiramisu swirls and morish salted atop clouds of marshmallow and precariously caramel are stalwarts – but it’s the sorbets that balanced between choux buns for larger-than-life deserve your attention. Two scoops of bright blood ice cream sandwiches. Then, these futurist desserts orange and blushing melon provide an antidote are doused in glossy caramels and fruit sauces to Soho’s hot tarmac while late summer sees and presented as a work of culinary architecture decadent additions to the blackboard; think sticky that can prove a little hard to dig into. Embrace the black fig and syrupy red plum. mess: these velvety nitrogen-treated scoops are worth it.

20-mins via Victoria and Piccadilly lines; 30-mins via Victoria and Northern lines; 7 Archer Street, W1D 7AU 49-50 Camden Lock Place, NW1 8AF

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Eastern promise Although we often associate al fresco dining with the Mediterranean, Asian flavours lend themselves perfectly to balmy, star-lit evenings. Imogen Lepere reflects on some of her favourite summer memories and shares tips for how to create an Asian-inspired al fresco experience this summer.

One of my favourite summer memories is being sprawled on a floor cushion on a rocky ledge overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, a sarong tickling my thighs. A low bamboo table was laden with fluffy rice, fresh coconuts, slithers of mango and fried bream sticky with turmeric sauce. As darkness fell, the sounds of the jungle rose, as if all the mysterious creatures in it were greeting the moon.

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We may not be able to travel as freely as we’d The phrase ‘al fresco dining’ generally hoped this summer, but it’s easy to infuse an al conjures up cool glasses of rosé sipped fresco dining experience in the UK with a little in olive groves and the caress of Asian flare. As the biggest continent in the world, Mediterranean afternoons, but my incorporating everything from the brutal Siberian tundra to the refinement of Osaka, Asia's food is most memorable al fresco experiences impossible to define. But almost all the countries have all happened in Asia. That trip within it boast a dazzling street food culture, to Thailand – a surreal six months meaning many delicacies are perfect for picnics. Asia’s food is Summer rolls (generally prawns, shredded lettuce, spent on a remote bay in Koh Phangan noodles and herbs wrapped in rice paper), chicken impossible to define – lives long in the memory. Every satay and banh mi sandwiches all travel well and but almost all the morning I did yoga in a breezy shala are easy, if a little fiddly, to make at home. before sipping fresh pineapple juice on If entertaining in your garden or on the balcony, countries within it the porch, watching butterflies as big the options are as broad as the Gobi Desert. boast a dazzling street as my fist meander by. Lunches were Many classic cocktails including mojitos and old fashioneds can be made with sake, while a pitcher generally summer rolls on the beach food culture, meaning of navy-blue butterfly pea iced tea is always and dinners sweet, salty curries eaten refreshing and looks great on the table, particularly many delicacies are under a velvet sky. when garnished with fresh blooms. perfect for picnics. Another stand out was on a phinisi boat in In most Asian cultures it’s traditional to bring food Indonesia, sailing to the Spice Islands through the out whenever it’s ready rather than sticking to famously unpredictable Banda Sea. A tsunami had courses and the table is generally heaving under decimated Sulawesi the night before we were due myriad plates, which also symbolises the host’s to sail and all the other passengers decided not to generosity. A few things that can easily be made travel. As I clung to the sides of my bed in the days in advance are wood ear fungus salad, dumplings that followed, I wished I’d been as prudent. But after (which boil or fry well from frozen) and buchimgae four days, a miracle happened. The brooding black (kimchi pancakes). Add a few paper lanterns was replaced by cerulean blue. That morning, the and red napkins, which symbolise luck in China, crew caught a fresh tuna. Sitting on deck eating and you’ll feel as if you’ve explored the east – no sashimi, watching sperm whales breach on the quarantine required. horizon, I felt as if I could happily brave any number of extreme weather events for food this good.

Fill your basket Where to buy Asian ingredients in London Choi Minamoto Longdan Kitchoan

Easy to spot thanks to its pastel- This slice of Japanese elegance It’s not going to win any awards for pink facade, this Tachbrook-street specialises in traditional wagashi design but the Elephant and Castle takeaway specialises in dim sum and sweets, characterised by natural outpost of this Asian supermarket noodle soups. It also offers Asian ingredients and taste bud-bending is a trove of store cupboard groceries and a homewares section textures. Expect whole cherries essentials such as mirin, rice wine selling beautiful serving platters encased in sour jelly, plump mochi vinegar, dumpling wrappers and and teapots. and pretty plum crackers that make decorations including paper lanterns. 22 Upper Tachbrook St excellent place settings. 44 Piccadilly 128-132 Walworth Rd

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Make your own: koji-marinated rack of lamb with smoked potatoes Dolphin House Umami, smoke and spices create an irresistible Serviced call to gather your friends and get stuck in Apartments to this elegant Japanese-inspired dish from Located adjacent to the River Thames and the Masaki Sugisaki, chef owner of Dining SW3 Thames Path National Trail, Dolphin House Serviced Apartments is ideally situated for your London staycation. With beautifully landscaped To prepare the lamb, rub shio-koji lamb and be sure to cover the gardens, onsite, secure car parking and close onto it (10% of the weight of lamb) surface using a pastry brush. Pour proximity to iconic sights and world-famous and cover with cling film. Rest in the the juice from the lamb into the parks, we have everything you need for a safe fridge overnight (or at least three sauce. Put the lamb back on the and comfortable stay. hours). This will tenderise the meat griddle and allow the sauce to ‘In my eyes the perfect summer meal and add that elusive umami kick. caramelise. includes refreshing drinks, good Dolphin House is a member of the Association While the lamb is resting, prepare Wash the new potatoes well and friends and ideally something cooked of Serviced Apartment Providers (ASAP) and is the spiced miso. Toast cumin seeds steam them whole over a high heat over an open fire as that aroma proud to be accredited with the ASAP Stay in a dry pan until you can smell for 15-20 minutes before smoking With Confidence Promise. the aroma. Make it into powder over cherry wood for 5 minutes. If really adds to the surroundings. This with a spice blender. Finely grate you don’t have a smoker, you can dish is inspired by Japanese street For more information and rates, the ginger and garlic and mix all use a large pan with a lid. Simply food and pairs well with sake, lightly call now on: 020 7798 5690 / 6890 ingredients except the extra virgin place the smoke chip in a small olive oil in a bowl. Keep mixing bowl and then place this into a grilled vegetables and gem lettuce until all the sugar is completely large pan. Put the potatoes around doused in yuzu vinaigrette.’ dissolved. Finally, add extra virgin the bowl and light the wood chip, olive oil and mix well. before covering with the lid. Once When the meat is ready, drizzle smoked, put the potatoes in a bowl and season with extra virgin olive it in olive oil and grill it over a Ingredients (serves 2) hot griddle. Quickly sear both oil and sea salt. sides (two mins each side) before To assemble, cut off the bone and transferring to a tray and letting slice the meat. Garnish with olive oil Rack of lamb it rest for four mins. After resting, and coriander cress. pour some spiced miso on to the Shio-koji for tenderising

Spiced miso for lamb 200g white miso (for miso soup) 100g Mirin 40g Rice vinegar 20g Sake 20g Sugar RATES CURRENTLY FROM 10g Ginger (grated) 5g Sweet smoked paprika 5g Cumin seed (toasted and £95 PER NIGHT grind) 2g Garlic (grated) 2g Sansho powder 50g Extra virgin olive oil (added at the end)

New potatoes

Oil for drizzling

Coriander cress (to garnish) Dolphin Square Chichester Street, London SW1V 3LX 24 [email protected] 25 THE SQUARE - ISSUE 14 SUMMER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 14 SUMMER

Having said that, resistance training is vital for defining muscles fast! Although it does not burn Want to know how to get that beach that many calories during a training session, it can body in four weeks? Below is a sample increase overall calorie expenditure. Simply put, workout plan for upper body, lower the more muscle you have, the more calories your body and core. Do remember to warm body is going to burn both during activity and at rest (BMR/Basal Metabolic Rate). up, stretch and not go too heavy too soon. It has been a while since we were As well as calories, resistance training quite obviously helps to sculpt your body. You can lose all the weight all in the gym and nothing gets in the in the world, but without any resistance training way of results quicker than injury. incorporated, the likelihood of getting your dream physique is unlikely – unless of course, your goal is to look like a cheese string! However, you absolutely do not have to be in the gym six times a week if that’s not something you enjoy. Do it right and three to four times is enough.

Owen’s full-body workout for quick results

With DSQ Gym finally open, home-grown fitness trainer Owen Harradine shares his most effective regime for seeing full-body results in just four weeks

With summer on the horizon and DSQ Gym dedicating time to meal prepping once again. finally open, many are wondering how to Plan for the whole week, so you know what UPPER LOWER CORE: get into the best shape possible quickly. I’m you’re going to eat and when. That way, you’ll BODY: BODY: sure I’m not the only one who has spent an have no excuse to drift off track. unprecedented amount of time on my sofa 1. Dead lifts 4 x 10 1. Squats 4 x 10 1. Crunches x 20 over the last year! This quick, effective routine Making sure we get our steps in and stay will help you achieve visible results in a month. moving is another vital piece of the puzzle. 2. BB Bench Press 4 x 10 2. Lunges 3 x 16 2. Mountain climbers x 20 People often think they need to run for miles It’s important to remember that going to the or do endless rounds of HIIT workouts, but in 3. Chest Press 4 x 12 3. Leg Press 3 x 10 3. Crunches x 20 gym is just a small part of a healthy lifestyle. fact having consistently good nutrition and 4. Seated Row 4 x 12 4. Leg Extension 4 x 12 4. Mountain climbers x 20 Forming positive habits – and kicking bad ones taking 10-20,000 steps every day will be more that have crept in over lock down – is a way of effective than burning yourself out through 5. DBOH Press 4x10 5. Hamstring Curl 4 x 12 5. Crunches x 20 keeping your training going long after you’ve over training. hung up your sports kit. Cut down on snacking, 6. Lateral Raises 4 x 15 6. Hip Thrusts 3 x 10 6. Mountain climbers x 20 takeaways and microwave food and start 7. Crunches x 20 8. Mountain climbers x 20

26 When starting a new exercise workout, ensure you have plenty of space and do all exercises at your own pace. 27

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The beautiful, the damned, and the real Riviera Ian Belcher follows the clink of champagne couples to the French Riviera, where F. Scott Fitzgerald and the Bright Young Things drank, dazzled and danced exactly 100 years ago

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F. Scott Fitzgerald, cover your eyes. I’m sitting on the light- It’s also the birthplace of the Côte d’Azur summer dappled terrace of what was, in another life, the urbane holiday. Up until WW1 the South of France remained author’s Riviera villa. On the next table a young American a spring and autumn destination for pale, often sickly, British and Russian aristocrats who fled home tourist in athleisure wear orders a citron pressé without ‘With our being back in a at the first hint of serious heat. That all changed nice villa on my beloved in 1923. Two hugely wealthy, highly charming looking up from her phone. A sneak peek suggests she’s American socialites, Gerald and Sara Murphy – the uploading an Insta image of the black four-storey super- Riviera, I’m happier than inspiration for Dick and Nicole Driver in Tender is the Night – persuaded the owner of what was then the yacht peacocking directly ahead of us on the turquoise I’ve been for years. It’s one of Grand Hôtel du Cap to remain open with a skeleton water of Golfe Juan. Quelle horreur! those strange, precious and summer staff. The gilded Murphys would live there while their nearby villa was being renovated. Over all transitory moments when the following two summers, their cultured friends Times change of course, and if you want a is backed by a mirrored drinks cabinet, and everything in one’s life joined them at the striking Napoleon III château, gentle flavour of the Jazz Age Côte d’Azur – it’s a surrounded by leopard print chairs, a grand piano spending lazy days basking around a pool recently century since the beautiful and the damned lazed, and period artworks. In short, cocktail heaven. The seems to be going well.' dynamited out of the limestone cliffs. The Rivera danced and drank their way through its sultry hotel lobby, with its original iron and brass lift cage, summer season was up and running. Mediterranean summers – then Hôtel Belle Rives in heightens the ambiance with up lighters, potted F. Scott Fitzgerald Juan-les-Pins, formerly Fitzgerald’s Villa Saint-Louis, palms and seaside murals. A dreamy photograph of On a sizzling afternoon I’m standing next to the is the perfect place to start. Scott and Zelda, he in plus-fours, she with a sweater 21st-century incarnation of that very same pool, tossed over her shoulders, suggests sunny times, as contemplating a swing on the adjacent trapeze Following the publication of The Great Gatsby, the does an engraved quote from a letter the novelist and declaring they’d only be released if they that has hung high above the Mediterranean since writer, along with his beautiful, mentally fragile wife, sent to Hemingway: ‘With our being back in a nice played until dawn. His wife’s reaction is unknown the mid-1920s. When Kendall Jenner uploaded a Zelda, and daughter Scottie, rented the property villa on my beloved Riviera, I’m happier than I’ve but almost a 100 years later, the winner of the Prix swimsuit pose here, she received 3.5 million likes in 1926. They’d moved to France from America two been for years. It’s one of those strange, precious Fitzgerald literary award receives a night in the from her 190 million followers – an unlikely reaction years before, seeking a simpler, cheaper life: ‘a and all transitory moments when everything in one’s same room, where he or she is serenaded by local to a middle-aged Brummie in TK Maxx trunks. new rhythm’ in the ‘Old World’, wrote Fitzgerald. life seems to be going well.’ musicians. Perhaps out of respect to its stylish past, or to the Instead they found themselves swallowed whole by eyes of fellow guests, I instead execute a graceful a hedonistic crowd of creative ex pats from Ernest It must have been written on a particularly good The Belle Rives isn’t the only hotel with a direct belly flop off the seafront diving board before Hemingway, Dorothy Parker and Cole Porter to day. The truth is less kind. The married couple lineage to the Jazz Age shenanigans that Fitzgerald plunging into early supper at the Eden Roc Pavilion. Rudolph Valentino, Picasso, Gertrude Stein and Man fought constantly with Zelda keeping packed dubbed the ‘golden bowl’. The rocky, pine-clad tip The once modest tea room is now a magnificent Ray. luggage in each room to enable spontaneous flight. of Cap d’Antibes hosts the property immortalized in restaurant, bar and deck cantilevered above the A famous anecdote recounts Scott’s desperate Tender is the Night as Hôtel des Etrangers, a ‘resort brine like an ocean liner’s prow. It’s a fabulously A sense of that louche, languorous and decadent attempt to impress her after a major row. Storming of notable and fashionable people’ shaded by Fitzgerald-esque evening with ‘the ghostly wash of era is reflected in the Belles Rives Art Deco interiors. out into Juan-les-Pins, he charmed a local orchestra ‘deferential palms’. It’s now the Hôtel du Cap-Eden- the Mediterranean far below’. Tender is the night – The Fitzgerald Bar’s curved antique counter to play at the villa, before locking them in his room Rock: the most celeb-tastic bolt hole on the planet. and the grilled turbot with smoked garden herbs.

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The glamorous coterie also colonised Garoupe Given their combined talents, it’s small surprise The hotel evenings were a little wilder back Beach on Cap d’Antibes’ eastern shore, which the that Fitzgerald would later write of these years Murphys and Cole Porter had cleared of seaweed. ‘whatever happened seemed to have something to in Roaring Twenties. Tales are rife including Sometimes adopting the locals basic fashion do with art.’ Gerald Murphy painted eight acclaimed the Fitzgeralds’ lethal habit of returning late (espadrilles, a striped fisherman’s jersey), at other canvases and his wife was a secret muse for at times bronzing in swimming costumes, it’s claimed least four of Picasso’s portraits. Art remains a joyous from parties to dive into the oil black ocean the American couple didn’t just ignite the Côte feature of any visit. Antibes’ Picasso Museum has off the hotel’s 35ft-high cliffs while clad in d’Azur summer, they also (along with Coco Chanel) an intriguing trail of his paintings, drawings and invented the indolent art of sunbathing. Stroll ceramics threaded through a labyrinthine château full evening dress. On a different occasion along the blonde sand on a busy morning, passing once owned by the Grimaldi family. While most the beach club and phalanx of hooped parasols, works originate from an intense six-month stay in Zelda spontaneously stripped off, lobbing her and you can still picture the Lost Generation the 1940s, their subjects capture the Mediterranean underwear to her hosts, before initiating a group sophisticates enjoying their own private paradise. good life that proved so compelling to the Murphy’s Riviera rat pack: lemons, watermelons, carafes skinny dip in the pool, while a less frivolous end of wine, freshly-caught fish. One of the more to a another soirée saw her walked around until memorable canvases depicts a topless, big-haired woman – a look that has never gone out of fashion dawn after overdosing on sleeping tablets. on local beaches.

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If you’re prepared to pay top dollar, you can also see a stellar art collection at La Colombe d’Or. The iconic hotel, swaddled by the hills above Nice, used to accept paintings and sketches in return for bed and board, and now boasts works by everyone from Picasso and Miró to Chagall and Renoir. It was yet another stage for a Fitzgerald family drama. When the dancer Isadora Duncan flirted with Scott, an incensed Zelda stood on her chair and leapt across the dining table, over Gerald Murphy’s head and the edge of the terrace, tumbling down a stone staircase. Happily the damage was nothing more than bloodied knees and dented dignity. Breakfast in a Box available, delivered to your apartment daily. Vegan and gluten Back at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Rock free options available. I meander down the Grand Allée connecting château to sea, bisecting We are working hard on developing new recipes exquisite gardens of umbrella pines, which we can’t wait to share with you. cedars and cypress. As I pass a vast Hold tight, we’ll be back as soon as possible. marquee, erected for an upcoming wedding rumoured to have cost £8.5 million, I ponder what Fitzgerald would have made of modern-day Cap d’Antibes. His own privileged era ended in 1929 but I’m Call: 020 7798 8699 or visit barandgrill.dolphinsquare.co.uk certain – given his fascination with the corrosive effects of great wealth – he’d have been intrigued by the oligarchs behind the mansions’ pastel walls and security cameras, including Roman Abramovich and Russia’s own great Gatsby, Suleyman Kerimov, who once hired Beyoncé to perform at his villa.

I imagine a gloriously entertaining supper, just myself and Scott, at the Eden Roc restaurant. We momentarily stop talking to watch Abramovich’s £290 million yacht pass the tip of the peninsular, its swimming pools, helipad and dance floor glowing in the soft night air. ‘Let me tell about the rich,’ he sighs, returning to his £77 starter of Dublin Bay prawns in champagne and cepe emulsion. ‘They are different to you and me.’ How true Scott, I reply. How very true.

Fly to Nice from £58 return. Hôtel Belle Rives has b&b doubles from £228; Hôtel du Cap-Eden- Rock has B&B doubles from £556. easyjet.com bellesrives.com, oetkercollection.com

Dolphin Square Chichester Street, London SW1V 3LX 34 [email protected] THE SQUARE - ISSUE 14 SUMMER THE SQUARE - ISSUE 14 SUMMER

A well earned paws

What’s the only thing that makes packing for a holiday even more exciting? Knowing your best friend is coming along for the ride. From water sports to hiking, Hannah Summers sniffs out five of the best UK breaks for dogs and dog-lovers alike

BEST FOR: ADVENTURERS

Training your dog is one of the best ways to forge a Splashing in rock pools and rolling in sand, chasing the only one. Over the last 12 months dog ownership respectful relationship but if your canine is showing birds and snuffling through woodland… For me, UK has soared – my husband and I are one of the three Crufts levels of cunning and competitiveness then holidays have never been better. It’s not necessarily million households that has bought a pet. it’s time to up the ante with some agility. Handily, the destination but my company, because one of the Fish, a boutique hotel in the Cotswolds, can Instead of separating our life from our dog we my highlights of the last year – admittedly not a offer that in one weekend away. Bed down in one of decided to try and enjoy as much of it as possible competitive category given our restrictions on the dog-friendly luxe tree houses, ramble through with her. And while holidays abroad with her may be socialising and travel abroad – has been taking fields and woodlands and train your dog to jump out, UK holidays are very much in. Again. With Bobby my new Romanian rescue pup, Bobby Jean, away. through hoops at the onsite obstacle course made Jean by our side, trips away aren’t just good – they From a weekend in Devon pubs to a week on the up of underground tunnels, see-saws and hurdles. are even better than they once were. Sure, it’s not beach in Scotland, you can tell that she was just as There’s a dog tub to wash down muddy fur (don’t always the easiest choice, but it is certainly the most relieved to get out of London and into nature as we worry, tree houses have a steaming-hot outdoor rewarding. were. Believe me, nothing makes you smile like a dog bath, too), a dog-friendly afternoon tea and a cosy on their jollies. So instead of paying for a sitter, I’m all for packing bar in which to sleep off the action – the dog, not you, that is. I’ve wanted a dog for a long time, and for all your dog’s bags and bringing your pup away with its downsides, the upside that the last year has you. Here are five breaks that’ll recharge both of Details: presented is the chance to finally commit. And I’m not you… Two hours’ from SW1. B&B treehouses from £370. thefishhotel.co.uk

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BEST FOR: WATER LOVERS

Stand-up paddle boarding is well known for its core- challenging and mind-clearing benefits and now it’s a human and hound bonding session, too. Book a session with the Paddleshack in Dartmouth, Devon, and you’ll master the technique of the serene sport, floating through the tranquil water of Warfleet Cove, all while training your dog to sit nicely on the front of the board, admiring the view. It’s not always as simple as it sounds – dogs with a fondness for birds and swimming may prefer to spend more time in the water than on it – but Alana your guide is on hand to offer tips. In nearby Totnes, the Bull Inn is a very pretty pub with rooms and the perfect spot for a long weekend away.

BEST FOR: RELAXED Details: BEST FOR: RAMBLERS Four hours’ drive from SW1. FAMILY FUN Two-hour SUP session from £30 per dog Antiques and artworks set the scene at one of (humans go free). Not cut out for camping but unsure if your dog is Scotland’s most eclectic and luxurious hotels, the Fife thepaddleshack.co.uk ready for a stylish hotel? Time for glamping. At Cedar Arms in Braemar, Aberdeenshire. Staying here is all B&B doubles from £135. Valley in Hampshire, you’ll experience the best of what about indulgence – whether it’s sipping a £100 a pop bullinntotnes.co.uk you may love about boutique hotels – fine linen on scotch beneath the painted ceiling of the tartan-clad king size beds and organic soaps – paired with the drawing room or working your way through cocktails laid-back rustic fun of camping. Handily, the whole at Elsa’s Bar. Dogs, too, are suitably indulged, and family can pile in too: huge safari-style tents have can stay in even the fanciest rooms – think four three big bedrooms, a living space, kitchen, bathroom poster beds, heavy drapes and velvet armchairs that tent at the rear and a huge deck for G&T sundowners. wouldn’t look out of place in a scene from The Crown. Couples, meanwhile, may prefer one of the new After a stomp around the Cairngorms National Park, contemporary ‘cabins’, with en suite bathrooms and cosy towel dressing gowns are on hand for wet and retro styling. Long walks through the surrounding muddy dogs, perfect as you both take it easy in front woodlands, field picnics or pints at Ye Olde George of the open fire. As for holiday momentos? Tweed Inn are all tempting. Or you could happily spend your collars, coats and leads are available to buy in the days on site, trying out the mobile pizza oven and online shop. making your way through local produce from the deli. Dogs are free to sniff about as they like but long leads BEST FOR: FOODIES are advised – this is an active farming estate with Details: hares, deer and pheasants. Nine hours’ drive from SW1. Woodland walks, fields of wild ponies and a pretty B&B doubles from £230. coastline combine to make the New Forest one of the Details: thefifearms.com UK’s best weekend escapes – even more so if you’re 90-minutes’ drive from SW1. a food lover. Firstly, there’s the brilliant Ploughman’s Safari tents from £140 per night. platter at the Royal Oak pub, where you can feast on cedarvalley.co.uk huge chunks of cheese, ham and pickles in a grassy garden. Then there’s Lime Wood Hotel. Here, Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder have created one of the most delicious culinary experiences in the country – a tasting menu of Italian-influenced dishes served in a cosy, relaxed dining room. You’ll have your pick of dog-friendly rooms, including the two-floor forest cottages, the forest cabin or the lake cabin. Your dog will have to relax in the room while you dine at the restaurant; with free-standing bathtubs and feather- filled sofas, you’ll be tempted to do the same.

Details: Two hours’ drive from SW1. Room-only doubles from £585. limewoodhotel.co.uk

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THE URBAN GARDENER Summer Diary

JUNE JULY AUGUST

Clip Wisteria Herbs Trim up evergreen hedges like privet, Cut back any long whippy side shoot Cut back herbs to encourage a new box and yew while in growth. from the main branch frame. flurry of growth, before the weather turns. Harvest Dead heading Pick salad crops regularly, and resow Go around borders and pots removing Ponds every 2 weeks for a constant supply. flower heads to re invigorate new Top up bird baths and ponds to blossom growth. help in the hot summer sun. Greenhouses Cover areas of glass to make shade and Tomatoes Onions & Garlic open glasshouse windows to stop plants Cut off any leaves below your ripening Once the foliage has wilted dig up and overheating and drying out. fruit, to prevent disease. store onions, shallots and garlic to prevent mould. Weeding Weed killer Keep on top of the weeding, to make This is the best time to spray ground Strawberries sure your plants have enough sun elder, bindweed and other weeds, when Tidy up around strawberry plants, and water the leaf surface is at tit's maximum to remove any straw to improve absorb treatments. ventilation.

June tip July tip August tip Pick flower heads from your Water your plants at dusk to Use your hose to dampen down lavender plants to use in reduce evaporation and help retain your greenhouse on hot days to baking or crafting. moisture around plants. increase humidity.

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LONDON C TER OU A NC RE I G T.E. L LAWRENCE “Lawrence of Arabia” Blue Plaque 1888 - 1935 Focus lived here LUXURY SPA INSPIRED BY THE Born in 1888, the second of five ESSENCE OF MOROCCO boys in an upper-middle-class family, Thomas Edward Lawrence’s almost-paralysing shyness masked a brilliant mind and a ferocious independent streak. For his history thesis at Oxford he studied the Crusader castles of Syria, alone and on foot at the height of the brutal summer. It was a 1,200-mile walk that carried him into villages that had never seen a European before and marked the beginning of his fascination with the East.

Soon after the outbreak of war in 1914 he was assigned to intelligence in Cairo. However, he quickly realised that the best way to undermine Hitler’s army was to support the Arabs in an uprising against the German-allied Turks.

By 1916 he was leading his own guerilla force on the Arabian peninsula who specialised in hit and run tactics. By his count, Lawrence personally blew up 79 bridges along the Damascus-to-Medina railway, becoming so adept that he perfected a technique of leaving a bridge 'scientifically shattered' — ruined but still standing. Turkish crews then faced the time-consuming task of dismantling the wreckage before repairs could begin.

Although he spoke emphatically about the bravery of the OPENING TIMES bedouin troupes he fought alongside in his book Seven Monday – Tuesday 10.30am - 7.00pm Pillars of Wisdom, Lawrence was crippled by guilt. He knew Wednesday – Sunday 9.30am - 8.00pm that the Sykes-Picot agreement, signed by the French and English, meant that the free Arabia they were fighting for was already a pipe dream. For treatment bookings please go to spa.dolphinsquare.co.uk When he got back to the UK, he refused to accept medals or call one of our Spa Mentors and campaigned constantly for Arabian Independence while T.E. Lawrence 1888-1935 on 020 7798 6767 living at 14 Barton Street. He never married and died aged [email protected] Resided at14 Barton Street, Westminster, 46 in a motorcycle accident in Dorset. London, SW1P 3NE

Dolphin Square 42 43 Chichester Street, London SW1V 3LX THE SQUARE - ISSUE 14 SUMMER

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