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El Solitario, Big Bend Ranch State Park, Fall 2007

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El Solitario, Big Bend Ranch State Park, Fall 2007 TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE Big Bend Weekend wranglers Watch Ranch SP carry on Big Bend’s the birdie pullout map ranching tradition Page 11 el PagesS 6 — 7 OLitarIoPage 3 TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE DEPARTMENT | FALL 2007 | BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK Hike features spectacular panoramic views Cinco Tinajas Trail is a short 30-minute stroll from Sauceda. The round-trip hike of less than 2 miles has an elevation change of less than 200 feet. At the end of the mile-long trail lies a close-up view of the tinajas. And there’s more. The canyon rim overlooking the Cinco Tinajas provides incredible panoramas of the far reaches of the park. Tinajas are desert water basins carved in bedrock by the erosive force of sand, gravels, cobbles and larger stones suspended in rushing Aerial view of Solitario looking north-northeast. The lower outer rim’s upside-down V’s are the famous “Flatirons.” water. Many tinajas, including these, hold water even in the driest of times. Knowing the location of one of these natural A sense of place water basins was, and is, knowledge that could save a El Solitario: before airplanes or aerial rocks. Subsequent volcanic person’s life. What’s In a Name? images were available. It is one activity further removed overlying rock, collapsed some Cinco Tinajas lies in a of Earth’s more distinctive of the lava chamber and narrow slot canyon that features as observed from formed a small caldera in the contains a tributary of Leyva by David Riskind space. The name is Spanish for central south-east Solitario. Creek. Almost all rain falling hermit or loner. El Solitario is the signature Early geologic studies onto the upland area around landscape feature of Big Bend About 36 million years ago erroneously suggested that Sauceda drains into this slot of Ranch State Park. Almost molten rock called magma the Solitario was either a dense volcanic rock, concen­ 10 miles across and nearly from deep in the Earth large volcano or a meteor trating a powerful erosive force symmetrical, this collapsed and pushed upward and displaced impact crater. on a fault or crack in the lava. eroded structural dome thousands of feet of overlying Over millions of years the The Solitario, as we see it straddles the Brewster- rock. This activity created a erosion formed five (cinco) today, emerged about 2 million Presidio County line in the blister or dome-shaped bulge interconnecting pools. years ago when the ancient Rio eastern portion of the park. on the Earth’s surface. Over Grande began cutting its now Continued on page 2 Early explorers of the region millions of years, erosion noted its distinctive shape even collapsed the dome’s older Continued on page 10 Featured Trails. 2 Access and Visitor Services . 8 Table of Be Aware . 3 What To Do While You’re Here . 9 Featured Campsites . 4 Featured Activity. 10 contents Fees and Visitor Services . 5 Archeology, History and Culture . 11 Big Bend Ranch Map . 6 Regional Director’s Welcome. 12 “El Solitario” is published several times a year by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department for the orientation and education of visitors to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Featured Trails: Contrabando multi-use Hike features spectacular panoramic views Horsetrap bike and hike <continued from Page 1> large part of the park. The Bofecillos highlands, of which Sauceda is a part, form much of the center of the park. La Mota is the flat-topped mountain lying almost due North. The Cienaga Mountains that form parts of the park’s northern boundary lie in the distance, north-northwest of At the mouth of Cinco La Mota. Tinajas canyon is a scenic 15 foot drop into the main Leyva Fresno Peak, the high point Creek drainage. A .7-mile hike of the Southwest rim of the over the ridge and upstream Solitario is visible to the east- in the creek bed leads to a southeast. On clear days the pour-off. Do not attempt this Chisos Mountains in Big Bend during a rainstorm or under National Park are visible threat of rain! beyond Fresno. The conical A short two-tenths of a mile mountain to the south- walk over the crest of the ridge southwest is Oso Peak. Finally, to the rim of the slot canyon a bit further to the west is reveals the Cinco Tinajas with Views of Contrabando Waterhole and ruins from a 1890s ranch await you on Sierra Rica in the Mexican their life-giving water. the Contrabando Trail. state of Chihuahua. It is seldom Backtrack to the canyon such a short hike can reveal so Contrabando Multi-Use Trail as well. Wax smugglers rim for panoramic views of a many incredible vistas. has two trailheads, one located escaped heavy Mexican export directly across the highway taxes and profited from higher from Barton Warnock prices in the U.S. Then, during Environmental Education prohibition, mule trains Center near Lajitas and a brought great quantities of second located 7.5 miles to the liquor out of Mexico to the west along FM 170. Regardless U.S. border, where it was of your skill level, this 25-mile delivered to bootleggers. trail system offers a segment or side loop that is suitable for you — from novice to advanced. Watch for horses: this trail is open to equestrians too. Enjoy spectacular views as you encircle the red rock of Lajitas Mesa or the uplifted Contrabando Dome. Along the trail, watch for wayside exhibits that interpret the area’s mining and ranching heritage. The word “contrabando” is Spanish for “contraband.” For decades, smugglers traversed Horsetrap Bike and Hiking what is now known as the Trail is easily accessible from Contrabando region along the Sauceda. Hikers will find the eastern boundary of Big Bend trail an easy 5-mile loop with Ranch State Park. In the early vistas of the surrounding 1900s, area ranchers sought Chihuahuan Desert. For Mexican cattle to bolster their mountain bikers the degree of herds; some brought animals difficulty ranges from moderate across the border illegally to to downright challenging. A 200 avoid custom fees. During the yard portion of the trail is 1930s, huge amounts of sandy. Enjoy this “off the beaten illegally exported candelilla path” experience as you soak up wax slipped across the border the solitude and the scenery. Hike with others and wear a hat and appropriate footwear when hiking Cinco Tinajas or any Big Bend Ranch trail. 2 | el SOLitarIo | © 2007 TPWD Mountain lion Head ‘em up, move ‘em out! Be Aware: Weekend wranglers have a chance each April and October to see cattle in the ranch’s You’re in wildlife country rugged and remote pastures, learn how the herd is moved Many wonderful Never feed wild animals or with horses and drive the allow them to get human or park’s historic Texas Longhorn animals live here pet food. Herd to stock pens at Sauceda Observe wild animals and Headquarters. Participants can and play a vital role longhorn cattle from a safe take part in branding and distance; never approach or vaccinating calves, recording try to photograph them at lineages and experiencing the in the balance of close range. traditions of the Spanish, Keep children and pets nature. You are a under Mexican and Anglo-American your control at all times. cowboy culture. guest in their home. Clean up and store food and garbage immediately after meals; The cattle drive is Big Bend By learning about never keep food in your tent. Ranch State Park’s most popular program, allowing up to Enjoy the outdoors with the park’s animals others, not alone. 25 visitors to experience a part of the state’s Western heritage. In the unlikely event that you Western Diamondback rattlesnake and observing the encounter a black bear or The three-day event allows par­ mountain lion, do not run. ticipants to learn about the Instead, face the animal, make In the unlikely event that a park’s ranching tradition, following tips, you bite occurs: noise and try to look as large experience life as a cowboy and can show them the as possible. Pick up small • Remove jewelry and loosen gain a lifetime of memories. children. Back away slowly. If tight fitting clothing attacked, fight back. Report • Wash the bite area with respect they sightings to park staff disinfectant For information call the Big immediately. deserve while Bend Ranch State Park Rattlesnakes are especially • Keep the person calm administrative office at common at Big Bend Ranch. and quiet (432) 229-3416 or the keeping yourself Watch were you put your • Limit movement if at hands and feet. Never harass all possible Sauceda Headquarters and your family safe. or attempt to handle a at (432) 358-4444. • Watch for symptoms rattlesnake — this is when of shock most bites occur. Rattlesnakes are protected in the park; do • Seek medical attention them no harm. immediately big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 3 Featured Campsites: Backcountry Pila Montoya Dos y Tres Zone Camping Marfa-Terlingua Road. These What’s special about campsites are designated primitive car camping sites. these sites? They are located in the Upper • Silence and solitude Fresno Zone near their namesake, Pila Montoya, • Adjacent to historic Marfa- a rock water tank found Terlingua freight road 8 miles east of Sauceda. • Great launching points Each campsite has a picnic for day hikes along the table, a fire ring, and at least road, upper Fresno two tent pads, and can support Canyon and the nearby For thousands of years, human eight people. A maximum of surrounding peaks populations utilized and lived in three cars is allowed in the Fresno Canyon, located on the parking area.
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