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TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE

Big Bend Weekend wranglers Watch Ranch SP carry on Big Bend’s the birdie pullout map ranching tradition Page 11 el Pages S 6 — 7 OLitarIoPage 3

TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE DEPARTMENT | FALL 2007 | BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK

Hike features spectacular panoramic views Cinco Tinajas Trail is a short 30-minute stroll from Sauceda. The round-trip hike of less than 2 miles has an elevation change of less than 200 feet. At the end of the mile-long trail lies a close-up view of the tinajas. And there’s more. The canyon rim overlooking the Cinco Tinajas provides incredible panoramas of the far reaches of the park. Tinajas are desert water basins carved in bedrock by the erosive force of sand, gravels, cobbles and larger stones suspended in rushing Aerial view of Solitario looking north-northeast. The lower outer rim’s upside-down V’s are the famous “Flatirons.” water. Many tinajas, including these, hold water even in the driest of times. Knowing the location of one of these natural A sense of place water basins was, and is, knowledge that could save a El Solitario: before airplanes or aerial rocks. Subsequent volcanic person’s life. What’s In a Name? images were available. It is one activity further removed overlying rock, collapsed some Cinco Tinajas lies in a of Earth’s more distinctive of the chamber and narrow slot canyon that features as observed from formed a small caldera in the contains a tributary of Leyva by David Riskind space. The name is Spanish for central south-east Solitario. Creek. Almost all rain falling hermit or loner. El Solitario is the signature Early geologic studies onto the upland area around landscape feature of Big Bend About 36 million years ago erroneously suggested that Sauceda drains into this slot of Ranch State Park. Almost molten rock called magma the Solitario was either a dense volcanic rock, concen­ 10 miles across and nearly from deep in the Earth large volcano or a meteor trating a powerful erosive force symmetrical, this collapsed and pushed upward and displaced impact crater. on a fault or crack in the lava. eroded structural dome thousands of feet of overlying Over millions of years the The Solitario, as we see it straddles the Brewster- rock. This activity created a erosion formed five (cinco) today, emerged about 2 million Presidio County line in the blister or dome-shaped bulge interconnecting pools. years ago when the ancient Rio eastern portion of the park. on the Earth’s surface. Over Grande began cutting its now Continued on page 2 Early explorers of the region millions of years, erosion noted its distinctive shape even collapsed the dome’s older Continued on page 10

Featured Trails...... 2 Access and Visitor Services ...... 8 Table of Be Aware ...... 3 What To Do While You’re Here ...... 9 Featured Campsites ...... 4 Featured Activity...... 10 contents Fees and Visitor Services ...... 5 Archeology, History and Culture ...... 11 Big Bend Ranch Map ...... 6 Regional Director’s Welcome...... 12

“El Solitario” is published several times a year by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department for the orientation and education of visitors to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Featured Trails: Contrabando multi-use Hike features spectacular panoramic views Horsetrap bike and hike

large part of the park. The Bofecillos highlands, of which Sauceda is a part, form much of the center of the park. La Mota is the flat-topped mountain lying almost due North. The Cienaga Mountains that form parts of the park’s northern boundary lie in the distance, north-northwest of At the mouth of Cinco La Mota. Tinajas canyon is a scenic 15 foot drop into the main Leyva Fresno Peak, the high point Creek drainage. A .7-mile hike of the Southwest rim of the over the ridge and upstream Solitario is visible to the east- in the creek bed leads to a southeast. On clear days the pour-off. Do not attempt this Chisos Mountains in Big Bend during a rainstorm or under National Park are visible threat of rain! beyond Fresno. The conical A short two-tenths of a mile mountain to the south- walk over the crest of the ridge southwest is Oso Peak. Finally, to the rim of the slot canyon a bit further to the west is reveals the Cinco Tinajas with Views of Contrabando Waterhole and ruins from a 1890s ranch await you on Sierra Rica in the Mexican their life-giving water. the Contrabando Trail. state of Chihuahua. It is seldom Backtrack to the canyon such a short hike can reveal so Contrabando Multi-Use Trail as well. Wax smugglers rim for panoramic views of a many incredible vistas. has two trailheads, one located escaped heavy Mexican export directly across the highway taxes and profited from higher from Barton Warnock prices in the U.S. Then, during Environmental Education prohibition, mule trains Center near Lajitas and a brought great quantities of second located 7.5 miles to the liquor out of Mexico to the west along FM 170. Regardless U.S. border, where it was of your skill level, this 25-mile delivered to bootleggers. trail system offers a segment or side loop that is suitable for you — from novice to advanced. Watch for horses: this trail is open to equestrians too. Enjoy spectacular views as you encircle the red rock of Lajitas Mesa or the uplifted Contrabando Dome. Along the trail, watch for wayside exhibits that interpret the area’s mining and ranching heritage. The word “contrabando” is Spanish for “contraband.” For decades, smugglers traversed Horsetrap Bike and Hiking what is now known as the Trail is easily accessible from Contrabando region along the Sauceda. Hikers will find the eastern boundary of Big Bend trail an easy 5-mile loop with Ranch State Park. In the early vistas of the surrounding 1900s, area ranchers sought . For Mexican cattle to bolster their mountain bikers the degree of herds; some brought animals difficulty ranges from moderate across the border illegally to to downright challenging. A 200 avoid custom fees. During the yard portion of the trail is 1930s, huge amounts of sandy. Enjoy this “off the beaten illegally exported candelilla path” experience as you soak up wax slipped across the border the solitude and the scenery. Hike with others and wear a hat and appropriate footwear when hiking Cinco Tinajas or any Big Bend Ranch trail.

2 | el SOLitarIo | © 2007 TPWD Mountain lion

Head ‘em up, move ‘em out!

Be Aware: Weekend wranglers have a chance each April and October to see cattle in the ranch’s You’re in wildlife country rugged and remote pastures, learn how the herd is moved Many wonderful Never feed wild animals or with horses and drive the allow them to get human or park’s historic Texas Longhorn animals live here pet food. Herd to stock pens at Sauceda Observe wild animals and Headquarters. Participants can and play a vital role longhorn cattle from a safe take part in branding and distance; never approach or vaccinating calves, recording try to photograph them at lineages and experiencing the in the balance of close range. traditions of the Spanish, Keep children and pets nature. You are a under Mexican and Anglo-American your control at all times. cowboy culture. guest in their home. Clean up and store food and garbage immediately after meals; The cattle drive is Big Bend By learning about never keep food in your tent. Ranch State Park’s most popular program, allowing up to Enjoy the outdoors with the park’s animals others, not alone. 25 visitors to experience a part of the state’s Western heritage. In the unlikely event that you Western Diamondback rattlesnake and observing the encounter a black bear or The three-day event allows par­ mountain lion, do not run. ticipants to learn about the Instead, face the animal, make In the unlikely event that a park’s ranching tradition, following tips, you bite occurs: noise and try to look as large experience life as a cowboy and can show them the as possible. Pick up small • Remove jewelry and loosen gain a lifetime of memories. children. Back away slowly. If tight fitting clothing attacked, fight back. Report • Wash the bite area with respect they sightings to park staff disinfectant For information call the Big immediately. deserve while Bend Ranch State Park Rattlesnakes are especially • Keep the person calm administrative office at common at Big Bend Ranch. and quiet (432) 229-3416 or the keeping yourself Watch were you put your • Limit movement if at hands and feet. Never harass all possible Sauceda Headquarters and your family safe. or attempt to handle a at (432) 358-4444. • Watch for symptoms rattlesnake — this is when of shock most bites occur. Rattlesnakes are protected in the park; do • Seek medical attention them no harm. immediately

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 3 Featured Campsites: Backcountry Pila Montoya Dos y Tres Zone Camping Marfa-Terlingua Road. These What’s special about campsites are designated primitive car camping sites. these sites? They are located in the Upper • Silence and solitude Fresno Zone near their namesake, Pila Montoya, • Adjacent to historic Marfa- a rock water tank found Terlingua freight road 8 miles east of Sauceda. • Great launching points Each campsite has a picnic for day hikes along the table, a fire ring, and at least road, upper Fresno two tent pads, and can support Canyon and the nearby For thousands of years, human eight people. A maximum of surrounding peaks populations utilized and lived in three cars is allowed in the Fresno Canyon, located on the parking area. If a secluded • Excellent stargazing atmosphere is on your agenda, eastern edge of the park. Native The campsites are protected There are no designated these sites are perfect for you. American rock art sites and from strong winds by rocky campsites in the backcountry Some say that you can still hear historic ruins dot the landscape outcroppings, but maintain an zone. Backcountry camping of this eye-appealing canyon. the horses and mules of the allows overnight visitors to open, spacious feeling. Common stagecoach and freight wagons select their own primitive Surrounded by ancient lava plants are ocotillo, cholla, struggling up the steep incline campsite, based upon beds, scenic campsites are of the old freight road as it prickly pear and other cacti, certain conditions: located adjacent to the historic climbs out of Fresno Canyon. mariola and desert grasses. • At least 1/4 mile from any other existing campsite Getting There • At least 300 feet from water sources and prehistoric or Travel east from Sauceda on the 2WD all-access road. Turn right onto historic cultural sites Pila Montoya Road and continue 100 yards to Pila Montoya 1. Access to Pila Montoya 2 and 3 are accessible by high-clearance 2WD vehicle. • At least 3/4 mile from trailheads or roads Distances Backcountry campers may use Sauceda to Pila Montoya Road 7.7 miles the “cathole” method to dispose Pila Montoya to Pila Montoya 2 1.0 miles of human waste and must pack Pila Montoya to Pila Montoya 3 1.4 miles out all trash. No open fires are allowed due to resource impact; GPS Coordinates (NAD83) use of containerized fuel stoves Site UTM13 Easting UTM13 Northing Longitude DD Latitude DD Longitude DMS Latitude DMS is permitted. The maximum stay Pila Montoya 2 610427.540 3263474.333 -103.86080 29.49594 -103 51 38.89 29 29 45.39 is 14 nights (total) and seven consecutive days in any one Pila Montoya 3 610558.200 3263093.233 -103.85949 29.49249 -103 51 34.18 29 29 32.96 backcountry zone.

4 | el SOLitarIo | © 2007 TPWD Important: Big Bend Ranch State Park Orientation

Fees and visitor services Front Country Zone Day Use Only Daily entry fee: Appropriate orientation $3 per person per materials will be day for all over 13 provided, depending on years old the visitor’s intended activities and areas of interest at the park. Vehicle Campsite: Primitive Road or $8 per site/day Backcountry Zone up to 8 persons Day or Overnight Use The viewing or reviewing Backcountry of comprehensive Zone Camping: orientation materials and $5 per night/site information is required. This material will introduce the park, the Horses: Chihuahuan Desert, $2 per day/horse safety, water use, vehicle requirements, land ethics, etc. Orientation is required annually. Park Information and Permits Park information and permits for day use and camping may be obtained in No gas, diesel person from 8:00 am – 5:00 pm daily at four locations: or groceries Big Bend Ranch State Fort Leaton State Park Administrative Office Historic Site available in park. Presidio Presidio 432-229-3416 432-229-3613 Cell phone service in Barton Warnock Environmental Sauceda the park is very Lodging Education Center park interior Lajitas 432-358-4444 limited and unreliable. Lodging is available bunkhouse 432-424-3327 Don’t count on it! style or in the “Big House” at Permits are required for use of Primitive Road and Front Country Campsites Sauceda. Meals are available and for Backcountry Zone Camping. Day Use visitors are required to obtain with advance reservations. Call a free permit for motorized entry into the Primitive Road Zone. Emergency dial 911 (432) 229-3416 between 8:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. for information Campsite and backcountry reservations may be made in advance by calling and reservations. (432) 229-3416 between 8:00 am and 5:00 pm. Permits must be picked up Big Bend Ranch in person. State Park Peace Officer (432) 229-3416 Airstrip Use Zones Presidio County Sheriff’s Office Big Bend Ranch Front Country Zone is defined as those lands within approximately one- (432) 229-3764 paved airstrip 3TE3 quarter mile either side of the designated 2WD roads. All street legal and Presidio County licensed vehicles are permitted in this zone. Overnight use may occur only 103-56-11.7030 W at designated locations. Emergency Dispatcher 28-28-10.6840 N (432) 729-4308 or 911 Primitive Road Zone is defined as lands within one-quarter mile either Elevation: 4240 feet side of designated 4WD or 2WD high clearance roads. Motorized vehicle Terlingua Medics Length: 5500 feet access to this zone is restricted to street legal and licensed vehicles and (432) 371-2222 must have at least four functional wheels. Overnight use may occur only at Department Public designated campsites. Safety/Highway Patrol Backcountry Zones are defined as lands that are more than one-quarter (432) 229-3768 mile from publicly accessible roads. Twenty separate zones have been defined. Only non-motorized travel is permitted. Visitors are encouraged, Towing though not required, to use designated trails and routes until they are Alpine (432) 837-1150 knowledgeable and confident in their familiarity with the park to travel Presidio (432) 229-3312 cross-country.

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 5 Big Bend ranch State Park

Legend Cienega Pens Cerro Boludo Cienega Trailhead Cienega Residence Arrival Campground Cienega Campsite

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C A 4 miles R ? Ft. Leaton Food and Lodging Big Bend Ranch State Park The lodge at Sauceda contains a commercial kitchen and a bunkhouse. Meals are prepared and Access and visitor services served in a common dining area. Meal service can be arranged with advance notice. Lodging is Vehicle Accessible available bunkhouse style—men on one side and women on the other. Camping The three-bedroom “Big House” Fifty-five locations have been sleeps 8. The “Big House” has a designated for vehicle accessible full kitchen or meals may be taken camping. Permits are required. at the Bunk House. Pets are not Each site includes a tent area, allowed in either. For information, picnic table and fire ring. Some rates and reservations, call campsites are still under (432) 229-3416 between 8:00 a.m. development and may temporarily and 5:00 p.m. lack some amenities. Campers are required to place Enjoy the Park tents in designated areas only. Desert resources are fragile. All (and Live to Tell About It) visitors are required to haul out The beauty of Big Bend Ranch lies their human waste and pack out in its rugged remoteness. You are all trash. responsible for your own personal Portable privies are available safety while at the Ranch. Stay alert, read posted materials and for purchase at all permit issuing Road conditions are affected by rain and run-off and will stations. consult a ranger for advice. vary widely. Check with a ranger for conditions on arrival. Downed wood is critical to Stay cool. Desert heat can kill, and desert ecology. Gathering sunburn is no fun. While enjoying firewood is prohibited. Visitors Know Your Vehicle the park, be sure to use sunscreen. may bring their own firewood or Some roads are suitable only for high clearance or four-wheel-drive Wear a long sleeved shirt, long purchase it at Sauceda. Charcoal vehicles. If you have any questions about the roads or the suitability of your pants, a broad-brimmed hat and cooking fires and containerized vehicle, consult a park ranger. sunglasses. Avoid strenuous outdoor activities during the fuel stoves are allowed. Ashes • Two-wheel-drive (2WD): main road and some spurs where any highway hottest part of the day. Always must be packed out or deposited worthy vehicle, driven responsibly, can access. in the fire ring. The maximum stay drink plenty of water. • Two-wheel-drive, high-clearance (2WDHC): roads where extra clearance per permit is 14 nights. Water is life. If you wait until is required due to road conditions (obstacles, steep dips, etc.). Individual Campsites you’re thirsty to drink, you’ve • Four-wheel-drive (4WD): recommended where extra traction is required waited too long. Carry and • Up to 8 person occupancy on steep, loose or soft ground. Includes All Wheel Drive (AWD). consume at least 1 gallon of • 3 vehicle limit • Four-wheel-drive, high-clearance (4WDHC): primitive roads or routes water per person per day to Group Campsites harsher then 4WD, where passage required vehicles with extra traction, avoid dehydration. Drinking water • Up to 12 person occupancy rigid suspension and high clearance. is available at the visitor center. • 5 vehicle limit High clearance is considered a minimum of eight inches. Weather the weather. In a lightning Equestrian Staging Campsites storm, seek shelter inside a Rules for the Road Less Traveled building or a vehicle with a roof. Do • Up to 24 person occupancy not stand under trees or in shallow • 12 vehicle limit Park speed limit is 25 mph. Drive slowly to keep yourself, your caves, and avoid high ground. Stay Campsites at Campgrounds passengers, your vehicle and the park’s animals safe. away from water, wire fences and metal railings, which can carry • Up to 8 person occupancy When should 4WD be engaged? Generally speaking, once you leave the • 3 vehicle limit maintained road shift from 2WD into 4WD and leave it there until returning lightning from a distance. to the maintained road. Use 4WD low before you need to negotiate any Dry creek beds can quickly become really difficult obstacles. raging torrents due to rainfall far Pets Take care of your tires. On primitive roads, the number one trouble is upstream. Be cautious when hiking tire failure, often sidewall punctures. Drive slowly and watch for sharp in streambeds. Never cross rain- Pets are allowed anywhere vehicles rocks, sticks and cactus. Carry fix-a-flat, a lug wrench, hydraulic jack and swollen creeks or washes. Be aware are allowed, and within 1/4 mile of tow strap. A good spare is essential; two spares are recommended. that temperatures can fluctuate by publicly accessible roads. Always 50 degrees per day at the Park keep pets on a leash and pick up after Always carry an extra 5 gallons of water. and dress accordingly. Stay dry to them. Never leave pets unattended or Beware of brush. The woody bushes of the desert are extremely hard prevent hypothermia. allow them to approach wild animals and can produce nasty scratches in your vehicle’s paint. or longhorn cattle. Don’t go it alone. Tell someone your plans and estimated return time. Avoid exploring alone. Cell phone service is spotty at best; do Medical Services not rely upon it. Always have Note: Cell phone service in the park is unreliable and limited. No medical facilities are plenty of water and food with you. available within the park. The nearest hospital is located in Alpine, approximately three + hours drive from Sauceda. Local Emergency Medical Services are: Emergency dial 911 Terlingua Medics: (432) 371-2222 | Presidio EMS: (432) 729-4308

8 | el SOLitarIo | © 2007 TPWD What to do while you’re here

erosion. and resultant unlike the limestone canyons Hiking and Horseback landforms ultimately of and determine where and how the the Lower Canyons, are Biking Riding region’s plants, animals and entirely of igneous rock. Raft humans live. So as you soak up trips may be arranged through Trails provide the only means the scenery, remember that local outfitters in Terlingua of accessing many areas within you are looking far back into and Study Butte. Big Bend Ranch State Park, geologic time — a long and allow visitors an intimate chronicle of earth history. rapport with the outdoors. Ultimately the park will boast Commercially 65 routes comprising 236 miles Guided Tours of interconnected trails. The River Access system strives to capture the and Outfitters spirit of the land by offering Horseback represents another The /Rio Bravo trails that are scenic and way to view and appreciate Big corridor is an easily accessible Bend Ranch State Park can educational, and offers varying Bend Ranch. So saddle up and area of the park for day use, promote public access for those levels of accessibility and explore almost 300,000 acres in including rafting, canoeing and individuals apprehensive of such challenge to people of all ages the Chihuahuan Desert. free bank fishing. Several river a primitive site or who may be and abilities. Equestrian activities are access points are found within looking for a recreational allowed in all areas of the park the park along FM-170. Due to rough terrain some experience that they are unable unless specifically excluded. Colorado Canyon includes of the park’s trails are suitable to facilitate themselves. All pack and saddle stock users Class II and Class III rapids. for hiking only. Other trails Potential services may include: must obtain a backcountry use This section of the river is not available to for mountain equestrian trips, river rafting, permit, whether for day use or considered dangerous under bikers and equestrians as well. mountain bike tours, campouts, overnight. Equestrians must normal flow conditions. The Refer to the park map or nature/birding hikes and art bring their own weed-free walls of Colorado Canyon, speak with a ranger for details. and photography classes. horse feed. All horses must If you do not have a bike, have documentation of a rentals are available at the current Coggins test. Sauceda Visitor Center or Certified Commercial through local outfitters. When Guides for Big Bend biking, always wear a helmet. Ranch State Park are: Carry plenty of water and Rock Watching wear appropriate, protective Big Bend River Tours clothing. Most importantly, 432-371-3033 or The primary attraction of the have fun! 800-545-4240 Big Bend country is its scenery, and here, scenery is geology. Desert Sports The mountains, canyons, 432-371-2727 or plateaus, rivers and waterfalls 888-989-6900 are all the direct result from geologic processes of mountain Far Flung Outdoor Center building, volcanism, rock 432-371-2489 formation, subsequent faulting, 800-839-7238 folding, weathering and

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 9 A sense of place Featured Activity: famous canyons. Volcanism, weathering, erosive rains, runoff and groundwater Watch moving through the Shutups, Fresno Creek, Terlingua Creek and Contrabando Creek combined to expose and shape the birdie the landforms that park visitors see today. Eons of erosion exposed some of the Earth’s most ancient rocks including shales, sandstones and cherts in Solitario’s core. On first impression, the Vermilion flycatcher Solitario’s interior seems to be an unremarkable terrain of low rolling hills covered by desert grasslands and scrub. But the exposed geologic history reveals one of the most remarkable accounts of our planet’s past that can be seen in one place. These rocks are Over 300 species of Rock Wrens are present year- deformed, uplifted and eroded round and a wide variety of remains of the Ouachita birds reside in Big Bend sparrows can be found here in Mountains, which predate the Ranch State Park winter. This area can be very Rockies. Massive limestones productive during migration that were seafloor deposits (late March through mid-May were uplifted during the Rocky by Mark Lockwood and late August through mid- Mounting building period of Big Bend Ranch State Park October) when flycatchers, Earth’s history. These deposits offers the opportunity to warblers and tanagers can be now form the Solitario’s outer explore Chihuahuan Desert common. Migration in West rings. The entire southwest habitats including grasslands, Texas is not as spectacular as quadrant of the Solitario has desert scrub, canyons, and farther east, but surprises can steeply inclined inverted V riparian woodlands and be found. Some of the more Black-throated sparrow –shaped rocks called “flat thickets. The greatest diversity interesting finds at Ojito irons.” Viewing them from the and abundance of birds is Adentro include Painted south or west at sunset is a normally found near the Redstart and a variety of breath–taking experience. numerous springs and along eastern warblers. Hiking through this world- streams scattered around the park. Large springs normally A walk along a dry arroyo class geologic landmark is truly are found in association with in well-developed desert scrub a walk through time. riparian woodlands will reveal a different group of There are several places in (cottonwood-willow-hackberry birds. Say’s Phoebe, Verdin, the park to experience the full Curve-billed and Crissal and shrub thickets). visual impact of the Solitario. Thrashers, and Black-tailed Zone-tailed hawk One of the premier birding Solitario Overlook is a few Gnatcatcher join more Bell’s locations within the park is miles past Sauceda and is Vireos in this habitat. An found at Ojito Adentro accessible by 2WD vehicles. easily accessible place to find (wayside stop #4). The trail Fresno Overlook on FM 170 these birds is along the arroyo from the parking area between Lajitas and the Tepee traverses through desert scrub that passes along the west side of the Sauceda headquarters Picnic area offers a great view into riparian woodland. The in late afternoon. For a closer song of the Bell’s Vireo is a complex. Two of the most look you’ll need a 4WD high common sound of the thickets abundant birds on Big Bend clearance vehicle, to reach the along arroyos and in the Ranch can be encountered Mexicano Trailhead. A short understory of riparian habitats almost anywhere. They are the and can hardly be missed Scaled Quail and Black- hike will give you spectacular between early March and throated Sparrow. Keep an eye Solitario vistas. The interior September. In the spring and out for them as you travel of the Solitario can be accessed summer watch for the Zone- along the park’s many roads. via a 4WD high clearance tailed Hawk, Vermilion Be sure to pick up a copy of road to the Tres Papalotes Flycatcher, Summer Tanager, the park’s bird checklist, Birds Trailhead. Hikes, some Blue Grosbeak and Varied of Big Bend Ranch State Park, substantial, can then be made Bunting. Canyon, Bewick’s and to record your sightings. to all points of the interior. Scaled quail

10 | el SOLitarIo | © 2007 TPWD Archeology, History and Culture: Lights, Camera, Action! What, a movie set in the Those who came before middle of the desert? It’s true! The scenic grandeur and cultural flavor of the Rio Grande corridor at Big Bend Ranch has long inspired artistic expression, including filmmaking. About 5 miles west of Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center along FM 170 you will see what looks like a quaint 1800s village perched on the banks of Rio Grande. This “village” is actually a movie set dating to 1985. Have you seen any of the five films or the award-winning music video that were shot here? • Uphill All the Way (1985) • Rio Diablo (1993) • Gambler V: Playing for Keeps (1994) • Streets of Laredo (1995) • Dead Man’s Walk (1996) • My Maria, music video (1995)

Want to Know More? The park stores at Sauceda Headquarters and Barton Warnock Environmental Education Center have a well- rounded selection of books that Ancient Native American pictographs in Leyva Canyon. delve into the region’s geology, plants, animals, culture and by Tim Roberts styles, include human or history. Included are children’s human-like figures, animals, Native Americans have books, memoirs, cookbooks and apparent insects, tally marks, field guides. Check out the inhabited or passed through the double zigzags, hourglass offerings and area of Big Bend Ranch for chains and star patterns. find a book about 11,000 years. Like those Historic images include human that’s right for who came later, they were figures on horses, longhorn you. Perhaps attracted to the area by the cattle, Spanish saddles and one of the many water sources, including crosses. Cuevas Amarillas, following? the Rio Grande and over 100 which features rock paintings, • The Three Little Javelinas free-flowing springs. The can be seen along the main by Susan Lowell artifacts they left behind tell park road in the interior of the stories of hardship and survival state park. Many others will • Geology of Big Bend The ruins of wax-rendering in this sometimes hospitable require a keen eye and sense of Ranch State Park and mining operations can be but often relentless land. The adventure to discover. by Christopher D. Henry lives of these people are seen in the eastern portion of reflected in the hundreds of Only a few early historic the park. Ranching and Native • Chronicles of the Big Bend sites have yet been discovered prehistoric camps, villages, American sites are scattered by W. D. Smithers at the park However, archeolo­ cooking stations and rock art across the park. You will be gists have identified a number • The Texas Outback: Ranching sites that dot Big Bend Ranch. able to see and read more of sites dating to the later part on the Last Frontier The variety of pictographs about these sites as you hike, of the 19th century and first bike or ride along the park’s by Bill Wright (rock paintings) and half of the 20th century numerous trails. Remember, petroglyphs (rock etchings or • The Wind that Swept Mexico including ruins of stagecoach please respect the park’s carvings) illustrate the amazing by Anita Brenner way stations and ranches. history and the heritage of diversity of these peoples. • The Buffalo Soldiers Others are the remains of those who came before. Leave Prehistoric images, mining ventures, or candelilla all ruins and artifacts as you by William Leckie illustrated in one of several wax-rendering operations. found them. • Quicksilver by Kenneth Ragsdale

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 11 Regional Director’s Welcome

than 2 or 3 miles per hour there is free-flowing water, presents a threat to your someone, at sometime, has personal safety and your either lived or camped. So, as vehicle. We encourage you to you explore, think about trying take the desert on its own to live here with only the tools, terms and at its own pace. Part shelter and food that the of what makes Big Bend Ranch desert provided. If you chance State Park such a special place upon one of those spots, please is that it encourages, almost be respectful of the people who demands, that you slow down. were here before and leave Slowing down for a few hours things as you found them. or a few days is probably a good thing, for our health and for The Chihuahuan Desert is a our spirit. Slowing down helps mystical, magical place but is visitors to Big Bend Ranch see also unforgiving. Elsewhere in all the subtleties and nuances this issue are tips, advice, and that make the Chihuahuan some rules for exploring this Desert such a fascinating place. Rio Grande vista from pullout just west of La Cuesta (Big Hill). place responsibly and safely. There’s the river corridor This advice, and healthy doses where in the midst of a desert, of humility and common sense, a fortress of biological diversity by Mike O. Hill you can feel the humidity rise, Regional Director and geological amazement. can help you get acquainted and hear the insect chorus with the desert and have some Welcome to the It’s fitting that the first crescendo the closer you get to great stories to tell when you first issue of El feature is about such a big the river itself. In the get home. Solitario, the place, because Big Bend Ranch Bofecillos highlands, after an newspaper State Park itself is so large. At exciting but slow-moving tour We hope this inaugural dedicated to just under 300,000 acres it is through fantastic red rock issue of El Solitario is providing you with timely and the largest state park in Texas. formations, you come to the informative, educational and accurate information about Big In fact, Big Bend Ranch State edge of a jaw-dropping canyon. entertaining. We hope your Bend Ranch State Park. In Park is about half the total The canyons themselves, and visit to Big Bend Ranch State these pages, you will find a state park acreage in the Texas their exposed layered rock Park is exciting and enjoyable. map showing trails and State Parks system. From the foundations, from patriotic It’s a long way to get here and campsite locations. You will northern boundary on Cienega Oso, with its red rock on top a long way to any help so also find information about Creek going straight south to of white rock, which in turn is please be careful while you are featured places to go and the Rio Grande/Rio Bravo it is on top of blue, yes blue, and here. Mainly, though, think of things to do. There is a section just under 22 miles. At its where the main thing you hear this place as a Thanksgiving describing the upcoming widest point east to west it is is just ... the breeze. In the Dinner for the senses. You special programs in the park about 29 miles. The Rio Terneros and Alamito Creek and some good advice about Grande/Rio Bravo comprises lowlands you can really feel the can’t possibly eat the whole how to prepare and how to about 25 miles of the park’s sun on your skin, and each thing at one sitting, so plan on safely and responsibly enjoy southern boundary. When you creek bank is a ribbon of green coming back to the table to your trip. put it into miles, it doesn’t and shade. From high on nibble a little of this and a sound very big. In the city or little of that, over and over. We will run a feature article Cienega Mountain, you see in suburbia most folks drive The difference between in each issue about special most of the Park, the Chinati about that far or farther just places in the park. This issue’s Mountains to the west and to Thanksgiving Dinner and the to get to work. Here at Big feature is about the paper’s the south, a big chunk of Park is that eventually the Bend Ranch, these miles are namesake, the Solitario. The equally impressive mountains dinner is gone. With your help deceiving. It takes a pretty real life Solitario is so big that in Mexico. and support, Big Bend Ranch long time just to go a mile in the best way to see its amazing This is big country; sparsely State Park will be here forever. this park. concentric rings is from the air! populated. Yet people have And the good part is, the menu From the ground it almost feels On many of the four-wheel­ lived here for about 11,000 keeps changing ... if you’re like you’re in a circular fortress; drive roads, going much faster years. Just about anywhere going slowly enough to notice.

el SOLitarIo Big Bend Ranch State Park Fort Leaton State Historic Site Executive Director TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE Editor Robert L. Cook DEPARTMENT MISSION STATEMENT P.O. Box 2319 PO Box 2439 W. Phil Hewitt Presidio, Texas 79845 Presidio, Texas 79845 To manage and conserve the natural and cultural Associate Editor Peter M. Holt, Chairman Fax (432) 358-4679 (Sauceda) Fax (432) 229-4814 Linda Hedges San Antonio resources of Texas and to provide hunting, fishing (432) 229-3506 (Administrative Office) Phone (432) 229-3613 Regional Director T. Dan Friedkin, Vice-Chairman and outdoor recreation opportunities for the use Phone (432) 358-4444 (Sauceda) Houston Mike Hill and enjoyment of present and future generations. (432) 229-3416 (Administrative Office) Texas Parks and Wildlife Mark E. Bivins Amarillo Park Superintendent Department Headquarters Tony Gallego J. Robert Brown El Paso You may view this and other publications through the TPWD Antonio Falcon, M.D. Rio Grande City Barton Warnock Environmental 4200 Smith School Road Web site. Please visit http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/publications/. Karen J. Hixon San Antonio Education Center Austin, Texas 78744 Margaret Martin Boerne In accordance with Texas State Depository Law, this publication is HCR 70, Box 375 (512) 389-4800 Philip Montgomery Dallas available at the Texas State Publications Clearinghouse and/or Terlingua, Texas 79852 (800) 792-1112 John D. Parker Lufkin Texas Depository Libraries. Fax (432) 424-3404 www.tpwd.state.tx.us Lee M. Bass, Chairman-Emeritus Phone (432) 424-3327 Fort Worth © 2007 Texas Parks and Wildlife Department PWD BR P4507-1437 (11/07) www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/bigbend/bigbend.htm

12 | el SOLitarIo | © 2007 TPWD