TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE

Big Bend Archaic The Explore Ranch SP Rock Sauceda the Night Map Ovens Unicorn Sky Pages 6 — 7 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 el SOLitarIo Texas Parks and Wildlife Department | Big Bend Ranch State Park Exploring the Mountains: Kids Making Their Own Adventure in

Big Bend Ranch © Magellan International School Eager students embark on their adventure at Hoodoos Trailhead on FM 170. By Cassie Honolka school staff wanted to offer an Sayuri Yamanaka, Community In spring 2015 seventh grade Spanish-English bilingual outdoor experience in which Outreach Sustainability/Food students from Magellan International School in Austin, TX, the students would engage in Manager for the school, felt accomplished their Big Bend Challenge: a trip encompassing a unique learning environment that making the 27-mile trip 1,126 road miles and spanning three nights and four days and have direct contact with on the rough roads leading the nature they studied in class. at the amazing Big Bend Ranch State Park! to Big Bend Ranch’s Sauceda Orlando Gonzalez, a bilingual Lodge Bunkhouse was a key elementary school teacher with ingredient for connecting This was the first time that students participated in a Texas Magellan, reflects on his skills students to the history of the Magellan students visited Big Parks and Wildlife Department’s as an accomplished Eagle Scout Bend Ranch as part of their Texas Outdoor Family camping area. Traveling and staying and realizes the importance of service learning curriculum. workshop. This program is in the heart of the park also immersing yourself in nature. The school’s mission prepares designed to empower beginning provided the opportunity to He states that “for many on children to thrive as global campers with the skills to immerse themselves in science the trip, it was a humbling citizens and future leaders enjoy the outdoors safely. Park and ecology studies with Big experience. We were pushed out of the 21st century. Through Rangers provide all the camping Bend Ranch as their classroom. of our comfort zone and into a Magellan’s curriculum, gear and lead activities like Students used their wilderness world in which we could only students are equipped with geocaching, kayaking, fishing survival skills and participated rely on each other. That was the the knowledge, skills and and more. The program also in activities that facilitated the lesson, we are not islands, sus- values to make informed introduces its participants to the school’s core values of global tainability and service-learning is decisions and become wealth of adventure in Texas mindfulness, respect, diversity a collaborative effort.” Activities champions of sustainability. state parks. and collaboration. for the group included hiking, The idea to visit the Big Bend During the students’ trip to camping, bird-watching and a Simón Calderón, a student of Texas first came when the Big Bend Ranch State Park, sensory trail hike with bare feet! who attended the trip, says his (cont. on page 2)

Big Bend Ranch Geology: El Solitario...... 2 Big Bend Ranch State Park Map...... 6 Make the Most of Your Visit...... 3 Access and Visitor Services...... 8 Table of Certified Commercial Guides and Outfitters. . . 3 Featured Hikes...... 9 contents Featured Campsite...... 4 Archaic People of the Big Bend...... 10 Be Aware...... 4 Volunteer Opportunities...... 10 Fees and Visitor Services...... 5 Sauceda Unicorn...... 11

El Solitario is published by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department for the orientation and education of visitors to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Students recorded their experiences in Field Notes journals. © Magellan International School Exploring the Mountains

(cont. from page 1) biggest challenge was climbing down the mountain. In the end he realized it wasn’t so hard and learned to overcome the obstacle. Another valuable lesson he shared was that by drinking too much cactus juice, you just might get a stomach ache. Sometimes you have to learn things the hard way. In the future he hopes to learn how to put up his own tent.

Sayuri, Orlando and other staff © Magellan International School at Magellan plan to mentor Student Anishka enjoys the view near Cinco Tinajas. these students as they use © Magellan International School their experiences from the trip was a great opportunity of want to explore more about the Hiking to Closed Canyon provides to create a Spanish-English exploring and hiking the area’s animals and the journey of new wonders with every turn. bilingual guide for future mountains. I learned more about Big Bend Ranch to becoming a students that visit Big Bend state park.” team building, survival in the darkest skies in the country, Ranch State Park. wilderness and a little more No doubt these kids are forever smelled the fresh spring creosote Benjamin Johnson, a student on about my classmates. I want to changed by their experiences in and embarked on an adventure the trip, recalls his adventure: learn more about the history of Big Bend Ranch. They’ve seen that was surely more epic than “I liked this trip because it how these mountains formed. I the stars twinkle in some of the they had ever imagined.

About 36 million years ago, the Solitario has steeply inclined magma from deep within the inverted V–shaped rocks called El Solitario: Earth pushed upward and “flatirons.” displaced thousands of feet of overlying rock. This activity created a blister or dome-shaped What’s in a name? bulge on the Earth’s surface. Over millions of years, erosion collapsed the dome’s older rocks. Subsequent volcanic activity further removed overlying rock, collapsed some of the lava chamber and formed a small

caldera in the central-southeast TPWD Solitario. Flatirons The Solitario, as we see it There are several places in the today, emerged about 2 million park to experience the full visual years ago when the ancient Rio impact of the Solitario. Solitario Grande began cutting its now Overlook is a few miles past famous canyons. Eons of erosion Sauceda and is accessible by exposed some of the Earth’s 2WD vehicles. Fresno Overlook most ancient rocks including on FM 170 between Lajitas and shales, sandstones and cherts the Teepee Picnic Area offers a in Solitario’s core. These rocks great view in late afternoon. For are deformed, uplifted and a closer look you’ll need a 4WD eroded remains of the Ouachita high clearance vehicle, to reach Aerial view of Solitario looking north-northeast Mountains, which predate the the Mexicano Trailhead. A short Rockies. Massive limestones hike will give you spectacular El Solitario is obviously quite special to the park as the newsletter you that were seafloor deposits Solitario vistas. The interior of were uplifted during the Rocky hold in your hand bares its name . But what does it mean? Spanish for the Solitario can be accessed via Mountain building period of “hermit” or “loner,” El Solitario is THE signature landscape feature of a 4WD high clearance road to Earth’s history. the Tres Papalotes Trailhead. Big Bend Ranch State Park . Almost 10 miles across and nearly These deposits now form the Make sure to chat with a Park symmetrical, this collapsed and eroded volcanic dome straddles the Solitario’s outer rings. The Ranger on latest road conditions Brewster and Presidio county line in the eastern portion of the park . entire southwest quadrant of and obtain a more detailed map.

2 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department What is there to do at Big Bend Ranch State Park? The Certified sky’s the limit! Whether you are seeking high adventure or Commercial some relaxation and solitude, the park has plenty to offer . Guides and Bring your own gear, or contact one of the outfitters Outfitters listed . For print materials, go to www .tpwd .texas .gov/ Laijtas, Terlingua bigbendranch or inquire at Big Bend River Tours TPWD one of the park visitor centers . 432-371-3033 • 800-545-4240

Desert Sports Make the Most of Your Visit 432-371-2727 • 888-989-6900 Far Flung Outdoor Center Horseback Riding Hiking 432-371-2489 • 800-839-7238 Lajitas Stables Many of the park’s trails and There are many, many miles of hiking for all skill levels in this 432-371-2212 • 800-887-4331 campsites are suitable for over 300,000-acre park. Trails can be accessed from Sauceda equestrian use, with corral Ranger Station in the interior of the park as well as off of FM 170. facilities and water available. Different trails lead to amazing vistas, tinajas (rock basins that El Paso sometimes carry water), ancient rock art, cottonwood groves, All pack and saddle stock users Western Spirit Cycling waterfalls, desert springs, historic ranch homes, deep canyons must obtain a backcountry use 800-845-2453 permit and bring their own and more. weed-free feed. All horses are With Big Bend Ranch’s abundant wildlife and desert vegetation, required to have documentation interesting rock formations and geology and long history of use by Presidio, Redford of a current Coggins test. humans, we know you will not be disappointed by your adventures Angell Expeditions on foot. Consult a Park Ranger for latest trail conditions and 432-229-3713 River Access review the safety notes on page 8. For descriptions of some The Rio Grande provides oppor- popular hiking trails, check out the article on page 9. tunities for rafting, kayaking, canoeing and free bank fishing. Backcountry Several river access points are Mountain Biking found along FM 170. Colorado The park offers hundreds of miles of routes for all skill levels. One Zone Camping Canyon includes Class II and popular venue is the Contrabando System (series of trails), which Class III rapids—not considered is best accessed from the east side of the park near the Barton dangerous under normal flow Warnock Visitor Center off of FM 170. Interpreted sites along the conditions. route include the remains of a candelilla wax camp, a cinnabar mine, and an historic ranch. Ask for the special map that covers Vehicle Touring this trail. Remember that a helmet is a must.

The main entrance road into The International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA) has the interior of BBRSP takes designated the Fresno-Sauceda Loop Trail as an “Epic” ride – one you through the west entrance, of fewer than 50 in the United States and Canada. Mountain Bike “Botella Junction,” and on Hall of Fame inductee Hill Abel describes the trail as “a huge day There are no designated to Sauceda Ranger Station. in the saddle and super challenging.” A highlight along the way is campsites in the backcountry The road to Sauceda is a well- the historic Crawford-Smith Ranch. Ask a Park Ranger for an zone . Backcountry camping maintained dirt and gravel interpretive brochure about this site for more information. allows overnight visitors to thoroughfare that requires slow select their own primitive speeds and is suitable for 2WD The Horsetrap Bike-and-Hike Trail is easily accessible from Sauceda Ranger Station. The degree of difficulty ranges from campsite, based upon vehicles. It is not recommended certain conditions: for large RVs or trailers. From moderate to downright challenging. A 200-yard portion of the trail is particularly sandy. Enjoy the solitude and the scenery River Road/FM 170 it is about • At least 1/4 mile from any “off the beaten path.” 27 miles to Sauceda Ranger other existing campsite Station through world class • At least 300 feet from scenery that you won’t forget. water sources and Various side roads within the prehistoric or historic park require high-clearance cultural sites and/or four-wheel drive vehicles. • At least 3/4 mile from Park staff can advise you where trailheads or roads to travel, depending on your Backcountry campers may type of vehicle and interests. use the “cathole” method For a pleasant paved driving to dispose of human waste experience, follow River Road/ and must pack out all trash . FM 170 from Barton Warnock No open fires are allowed Visitor Center to Ft. Leaton due to resource impact; use State Historic Site or vice of containerized fuel stoves versa. You’ll encounter is permitted . Permit and gorgeous vistas and short in-person orientation required . day hikes from this road. TPWD

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 3 Featured Campsite Getting There 4x4 high clearance Chorro Vista Pick up an Exploration Map for reference South from Sauceda on Javelin Road to Madrid Falls Road: 4 7. miles Follow Madrid Falls Road to all the way to Chorro Vista Campsite: 4 9. miles Check with park staff on latest road conditions and more specific directions .

GPS Coordinates UTM 13 Easting: 608347 © Gary Nored UTM 13 Northing: 3251182 View from Chorro Vista to the southeast with Mexico on the far horizon Latitude DD: +29 .3852056 Longitude DD: -103 .8834694 By Blaine Hall lead you to overlooks of Madrid © Blaine Hall Latitude DMS: 29 23 06 .74 N Falls the second highest in Texas, The Chorro Vista Campsite is Longitude DMS: 103 53 00 .49 W View across near vertical walls the Madrid House at the bottom located as far as you can drive of Chorro Canyon to the south of Arroyo Primero, or across of Chorro Vista into the remote southeastern the lower mesa for a closer highlands of the park. Climb up look into Fresno Canyon where on the small ridge to the east, segments of the old Marfa to BE AWARE: just above the campsite, and Terilingua freight road passes the view below you is filled by by the historic adobe ruins of Fresno Canyon as it meanders For your safety and welfare the Crawford-Smith House. to join the Rio Grande. Further In the unlikely event that to the east and southeast are About 0.2 miles back up the Many wonderful animals the Contrabando Lowlands, road from the campsite, head live here and play a vital you encounter a black bear with all its color variation and off to the north and over to or mountain lion, do not irregular landscape. Turn and the Mexicano Falls Trailhead. role in the balance of run. Instead, face the animal, look to the south and across From there you have access nature. You are a guest make noise and try to look Chorro Canyon. While to the to additional trails, including as large as possible. Pick up a short 0.8 mile hike to the in their home. By learning west, you can peer back into the small children. Back away overlook of Mexicano Falls the core of the Bofecillos Mountains about the park’s wildlife slowly. If attacked, fight back. and the way you came in. To third highest falls in Texas. Pick Report sightings to park staff the north is the imposing, up a free copy of the Fresno and observing the following immediately. dark Rincon Mountain and West Rim map when you check tips, you can show them last but certainly not least, to in at Sauceda Ranger Station the northeast is the flank of or any of the park’s visitors the respect they deserve Western El Solitario with its triangular centers. Diamondback while keeping yourself and rattlesnake “flatirons” etched against the horizon. 360 degrees of What’s special your family safe. incredible desert vistas. about this site? If you want a closer view of the • Remoteness and solitude Rattlesnakes are especially area, take off from the Chorro • Unbelievable views common at Big Bend Ranch. Vista trailhead just back up the • Extensive hiking Watch where you put your road from the campsite parking opportunities hands and feet. Never harass area. This system of trails will • Darkest night skies in Texas or attempt to handle a

rattlesnake—this is when most Earl Nottingham View the Crawford-Smith House and the Marfa to bites occur. Rattlesnakes are Terilingua freight road protected in the park; do them In the unlikely no harm. + event that a snake Never feed wildlife or allow bite occurs: them to get human or pet food. • Remove jewelry and loosen tight-fitting clothing . Observe wildlife from a safe distance; never approach or • Wash the bite area with disinfectant . try to photograph them at close range. • Keep the person calm and quiet . Keep children and pets under • Limit movement if at your control at all times. all possible . © Blaine Hall Clean up and store food and • Watch for symptoms garbage immediately after meals; of shock . never keep food in your tent. View of the flatirons of • Seek medical attention El Solitario at sunset Enjoy the outdoors with immediately .

© Gary Nored from Chorro Vista others, not alone.

4 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department Big Bend Ranch State Park Fees and visitor services Daily entry fee: Important: $5 (peak season) and $3 (non-peak Orientation season) per person per day for all 13 Front Country Zone years and older Day Use Only Appropriate orientation Standard Vehicle materials will be provided, Campsite: depending on the visitor’s $8 per site/day intended activities and Backcountry areas of interest at the Zone Camping: park . $5 per night/site Primitive Road or Horse Entry Fee: Backcountry Zone $2 per day/horse Day or Overnight Use No dump station in park . The viewing or reviewing TPWD No hook-ups in park . of comprehensive Lodging Park Information and Permits, continued orientation materials The interior of the park offers Special-use permits are required for use of Primitive Road and all camping . and information is Sauceda Lodge Bunkhouse accom- Day Use visitors are required to obtain a special-use permit for motorized use required . This material modations as well as rooms in the of primitive roads . historic Sauceda Ranch House . For will introduce the park, Campsite and backcountry reservations may be made in advance by calling reservations or more information the Chihuahuan Desert, call (512) 389-8919 from 8:00 a .m . (512) 389-8919 between 9:00 a m. . and 6:00 p m. . Monday through Friday to 6:00 p .m . Monday through Friday (except major holidays) . safety, water use, vehicle except major holidays . requirements, land Use Zones ethics, etc . Orientation is Airstrip Front Country Zone is defined as those lands within approximately required annually . Big Bend Ranch paved airstrip 3T9 one-quarter mile either side of the designated 2WD roads . All street-legal and licensed vehicles are permitted in this zone . Overnight use may occur 103-56-11 .7030 W only at designated campsites, with the required, special-use permit . 29-28-10 .6840 N No gas, diesel Primitive Road Zone is defined as lands within one-quarter mile either side Elevation: 4250 feet of designated 4WD or 2WD high-clearance roads . Motorized vehicle access to or groceries Length: 5500 feet this zone is restricted to street-legal and licensed vehicles . Overnight use may available in park. occur only at designated campsites, with the required, special-use permit . Park Information Backcountry Zones are defined as lands that are more than one-quarter and Permits mile from publicly accessible roads . Twenty separate zones have been defined . Only non-motorized travel is permitted . Visitors are encouraged, Park information and permits for though not required, to use designated trails and routes until they are day use and camping (subject to knowledgeable and confident enough ­in their familiarity with the park to Emergency availability) may be obtained in travel cross-country . person from 8:00 a .m . — 4:30 p .m . services The BBR complex park headquarters are only open during these hours . Cell phone service in the park is unreliable and limited. Sauceda Ranger Station In the interior of the park 9-1-1 service may be several hours away, but if you Park interior (432) 358-4444 have cell phone signal call 9-1-1 to alert the proper authorities . Be sure to Barton Warnock Visitor Center provide details of your location . Lajitas If in the interior of the park go to or call Sauceda Ranger Station for help: (432) 424-3327 (432) 358-4444 Fort Leaton State Historic Site If camping along FM 170 go to or call Barton Warnock Visitor Center: Presidio (432) 424-3327 (432) 229-3613

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 5 David Riskind TPWD TPWD TPWD Crystal Allbright TPWD Big Bend ranch State Park OVERVIEW ONLY NOT FOR ON-TRAIL USE To obtain a detailed Exploration Map (1: 48,000) of the entire park and to check on updates and current conditions, stop at Sauceda Ranger Station, Barton Warnock Visitor Center, or Fort Leaton State Historic Site .

Big Bend Ranch State Park Access and visitor services

Vehicle-accessible Enjoy the Park Camping (and live to tell about it) The interior of Big Bend Ranch has The beauty of Big Bend Ranch lies over 40 campsites to choose from . in its rugged remoteness . You are They range from a few miles from responsible for your own personal the headquarters to the far reaches safety while at the park . Stay alert, of the park . Along FM 170 there are read posted materials and consult 4 campgrounds with multiple sites . a ranger for advice . Campers are required to place Stay cool . Desert heat can kill, and tents in designated areas only . sunburn is no fun . While enjoying Desert resources are fragile . the park, be sure to use sunscreen . Important: All visitors are Wear a long-sleeved shirt, long required to haul out their human pants, a broad-brimmed hat and waste and pack out all trash. sunglasses . Avoid strenuous Portable privies are available for Road conditions are affected by rain and runoff and will outdoor activities during the purchase at all permit-issuing hottest part of the day . Always stations . vary widely . Check with a ranger for conditions on arrival . drink plenty of water . Downed wood is critical to desert Know Your Vehicle Water is life . If you wait until ecology . Gathering firewood is you’re thirsty to drink, you’ve prohibited, but visitors may bring Some roads are suitable only for high-clearance or four-wheel-drive their own . Charcoal cooking fires vehicles . If you have any questions about the roads or the suitability of waited too long . Carry and and containerized fuel stoves are your vehicle, consult a park ranger . consume at least 1 gallon of allowed . Ashes must be packed • Two-wheel-drive (2WD): main road and some spurs that any highway- water per person per day to out or deposited in the fire ring . worthy vehicle, driven responsibly, can access . avoid dehydration . Drinking water is available at the visitor center . The maximum stay per permit is • Two-wheel-drive, high-clearance (2WDHC): roads where extra 14 nights . clearance is required due to road conditions (rocks, steep dips, etc .) . Weather the weather . In a lightning Individual Campsites • Four-wheel-drive (4WD): recommended where extra traction is storm, seek shelter inside a required on steep, loose or soft ground . Includes all-wheel drive (AWD) . building or a vehicle with a roof . Do • Up to 8-person occupancy not stand under trees or in shallow • 3-vehicle limit • Four-wheel-drive, high-clearance (4WDHC): primitive roads harsher than 4WD, where passage requires vehicles with extra traction, rigid caves, and avoid high ground . Stay Group Campsites suspension and high clearance . away from water, wire fences and • Up to 12-person occupancy High clearance is considered a minimum of 8 inches . metal railings, which can carry • 5-vehicle limit lightning from a distance . Rules for the Road Less Traveled Equestrian Staging Campsites Stay high and dry . Dry creek beds Park roads are dirt and may be narrow . Speed limit is 25 mph on primary • Up to 24-person occupancy park roads . Drive slowly to keep yourself, your passengers, your vehicle can quickly become raging torrents • 12-vehicle limit and the park’s animals safe . due to rainfall far upstream . Be cautious when hiking in stream- Campsites at Campgrounds When should 4WD be engaged? Generally speaking, once you leave beds . Never cross rain-swollen the maintained road, shift from 2WD into 4WD and leave it there until • 3-vehicle limit returning to the maintained road . Use 4WD low before you need to creeks or washes . Be aware that negotiate any really difficult obstacles . temperatures can fluctuate by Pets 50 degrees per day at the park, Take care of your tires . On primitive roads, the number one trouble is tire Pets are not allowed on hiking trails failure, often sidewall punctures . Drive slowly and watch for sharp rocks, and dress accordingly . Stay dry (except Closed Canyon Trail and sticks and cactus . Carry fix-a-flat, a lug wrench, hydraulic jack and tow to prevent hypothermia . Hoodoos Trail on FM 170), in the strap . A good spare is essential; two spares are recommended . backcountry, or more than 1/4 mile Don’t go it alone . Tell someone Always carry an extra 5 gallons of water. from campsites or roads . Always your plans and estimated return keep pets on a leash and pick up after Beware of brush . The woody bushes of the desert are extremely hard and time . Avoid exploring alone . Cell them . Never leave pets unattended or can produce nasty scratches in your vehicle’s paint . phone service is spotty at best; allow them to approach wild animals do not rely upon it . Always have NOTE: A special-use permit is required for travel on all BBRSP roads or livestock . plenty of water and food with you . 2WDHC and beyond. welcome, sean and nate

Sean Dugan is the new Site Superintendent for Big Bend Nate Gold is the new Complex Superintendent of Big Ranch State Park. He’s always loved nature, learning about Bend Ranch State Park, Fort Leaton Sate Historic Site it and has a passion for sharing that excitement. Sean and Barton Warnock Visitor Center. He’s originally from completed a bachelor’s and master’s in Environmental Science the Dallas area and his love for the outdoors started when at Texas Christian University and Stephen F. Austin State he was young — camping, hiking, biking, hunting and University, respectively. Sean feels that what makes BBRSP fishing. He graduated from Texas State University. Nate so special is the multi-use approach to wilderness. It does not is a sergeant in the Marine Corps (reserves now) and has matter whether you are on foot, on horseback, on two or four worked in state and national parks for 7 years. Working tires. You are welcome. This makes the park unique and he’s at BBRSP has long been a dream of his! He and his wife glad to be a part of bringing this experience to the public. Robyn are excited to get involved in the community.

8 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department Hoodoos Trail Ojito Adentro Trail On the Fresno Divide Closed Canyon featured HIKEs

By Amber Harrison The Trails of Big Bend Ranch Photos: © Gary Nored Big Bend Ranch State Park contains over 300,000 acres There are two options for accessing many of the trails. One option is for trails off of the and boasts some of the most rugged and remote public paved highway River Road/FM 170. The other trails are off the unpaved Main Park Road into the interior of Big Bend Ranch – Sauceda Ranger Station. land in the state . Multi-use trails open to hikers, equestrians and mountain bikers allow access to many remote areas Some of the park’s trails are suitable for hiking only, while others are more appropriate for mountain biking and horseback riding. There are opportunities for everyone! Chat with a within the park . Our mission is to capture the spirit of the Park Ranger to develop an itinerary and refer to maps for the adventure that best suits land by offering trails that are scenic and peaceful, yet your needs and abilities. The following are descriptions of the most popular trails in the offer a natural and wild outdoor experience . park. See the quick reference table of trails at Big Bend Ranch State Park.

Approximate Round Trip Trail Name Trailhead Location Distance in Miles Difficulty* Recommended Use

Contrabando Multi-use System FM 170 25+** easy-difficult hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding Rancherias Loop FM 170 21 difficult hiking, horseback riding Closed Canyon FM 170 1.4 easy hiking Hoodoos FM 170 1.1 easy hiking Ojito Adentro Main Park Road 0.8 easy hiking Cinco Tinajas Main Park Road 1 easy hiking Leyva Escondido Spring Loop Main Park Road 4 moderate-difficult hiking Horse Trap Main Park Road 4.3 easy-difficult hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding Sauceda Nature Trail Main Park Road 0.9 easy-moderate hiking Encino Loop Main Park Road 7.2 easy-moderate hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding Fresno Rim Overlook Main Park Road (to Llano Loop Rd.) 5 easy-moderate hiking, horseback riding

* Difficulty ratings will vary for each user group. Always consult a Park Ranger or local outfitter about routes, trail and weather conditions and obtain appropriate maps and permits before heading into the park. ** This is a system of trails with many routes both short and long. Consult a Park Ranger to plan your trek.

Trails Accessible via and narrow, little sunlight reaches the Cinco Tinajas: Tinaja is a Spanish word Horse Trap Trail: This trail is a Paved Highway FM 170 floor and the temperature in the canyon for a rock basin that usually holds water. combination of decommissioned double- is substantially cooler than out in the track and single-track with gentle Contrabando Multi-use System: At this site you will see five tinajas just exposed desert for most of the day. A grades and outstanding views of the The East and West Contrabando a short hike from the trailhead. These great retreat from the summer heat and rolling hills and low mesas of the central Trailheads are the two main access pools contain water most of the year a perfect hike for a family. Be weather interior of the park. points to this system. It is made of up which makes them unusual features in wise! Flash flooding may occur. Leashed of over 25 miles of interconnected trails the desert. These tinajas and nearby It is named for its proximity to Horse dogs are allowed on this trail. of varying difficulty that expose you to springs support many species of plants Trap Springs, once used to supply the some spectacular natural and cultural Hoodoos: This site is named for and animals and have been an important Sauceda complex with drinking water. landscapes in the park. Educational its unique geological features called resource for people throughout history. The trail itself runs through an old waysides interpret ruins you’ll see on “hoodoos.” The word hoodoo originated pasture where horses were kept during Leyva Escondido Spring Loop: This the trail. in Africa and refers to what they the early years of the ranch. challenging trail takes you beyond Cinco believed were strange animal shapes Rancherias Loop Trail: Rancherias is a Encino Loop: This is a combination of in the rocks and embodied evil spirits. Tinajas to Leyva Escondido Spring via challenging, 21-mile-long loop. It begins double-track, single-track and graded A short trail leads you to a series of Leyva Creek. This trail will take you at the East Rancherias Trailhead and dirt road. Short stretches of access roads hoodoos, along the bank of the Rio past a Native American rock art site ends at the West Rancherias Trailhead. connect the Encino and Powerline Trails Grande. Another great hike for a family and up to a vista with 360-degree views It ascends from lower elevations near to form a loop. The terrain consists of with children. Leashed dogs are allowed of Leyva Canyon. the Rio Grande through the rugged the low rolling hills and mesas that are on this trail. canyons of the Bofecillos Mountains. Sauceda Nature Trail: This trail passes characteristic of the central interior Natural springs with fairly reliable Trails Accessible via Unpaved through country that is typical of the portion of the park. water, riparian habitats and historical- Interior Main Park Road Chihuahuan Desert and Llano area of Fresno Rim Overlook: This is a period ruins will be encountered along the interior park. It traverses a ridge Ojito Adentro: This short trail leads combination of double-track and single- the way. to lush springs and a seasonal waterfall composed of lava like that found in track trail that leads to a 700-foot cliff Closed Canyon: This is a short hike that features a distinctive community of the Bofecillos Mountains to the west. overlooking Fresno Canyon with views into a narrow slot canyon. The high riparian plants and animals. The springs Signs along the way identify some of the of the flatirons of the Solitario. An walls of the canyon guide you along the have been an important resource for plants common to the region. From the extremely difficult trail descends down way, progressively becoming narrower people and wildlife throughout history. trail you will enjoy outstanding views the cliff to Fresno Canyon Road, but as the canyon trends towards the river. Ojito Adentro is one of the top birding of La Mota Mountain and the historic should not be attempted as a day hike Because the canyon walls are so tall sites in the park. Sauceda complex. or by the inexperienced.

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 9 Archeology, History and Culture Archaic People of the Big Bend: Desert Survivalists

Article, photos and illustration by Tim Gibbs

A single ancient technology Desert, for upwards of 48 hours. utilized this technology include transformed the prehistoric By processing these plant the Chisos, the Jumanos, the Chihuahuan Desert from a resources in this way, what is Conchos, the Paterabuyes and the seemingly empty wasteland to bitter and toxic in its raw form is Apaches. Most notable of which a veritable supermarket with transformed into a carbohydrate were the Mescaleros who took delicious edibles as far as the eye rich staple. their name from the mescal could see. Today archeologists Recent work conducted by the (agave) that they cooked in pits. refer to the physical remains Center for Big Bend Studies on Plants cooked in this manner that they left behind as earth the neighboring O2 Ranch in typically would not have ovens, mescal pits, roasters, Brewster County, suggests that provided enough calories to and burned rock middens, but the earliest use of this technology generate surplus so ancient each is a variant of what we Archaic people baked the stems of may date back to 11,000 years groups had to keep moving to can collectively refer to as the sotol for food. ago. These features were used to locate new sources of water, fuel “Archaic Adaptation.” process desert succulents well for cooking and plants. We see In its most simple form, the into the late 19th century. evidence of these archaic people Today visitors to the Big Archaic Adaptation involves the Since written word did not enter throughout the ranch. Help us to Bend of Texas travel great use of a pit lined with heated the Big Bend until the 16th protect the evidence of the rich distances to marvel in the rocks to slowly cook the century, we do not know the lives of these ancient peoples by succulent stems of sotol and names of the people who left respecting the artifacts that they scenic vistas of deep canyons lechuguilla, which are very behind these piles of burned rock. left behind and leave them and high mountains, but are common in the Chihuahuan Later groups that we suspect where you find them! by no means the first people Lechuguilla was also used for food. Generalized to do so . This unforgiving archaic rock oven. Earthen Cap landscape is now Big Bend Ranch State Park and has been occupied for thousands Protective Vegetative of years . In such a desolate, Covering Succulent Foodstuff dry, foreboding place, how did Rock Heating they manage to survive? Element Charcoal

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES Get Involved with the Park!

By Mike Slaton, Communications Chair, Compadres del Rancho Grande, Houston, Texas

Love what you see? You may find yourself standing of the Big Ranch,” and we’re easy Blown away by Big Bend Ranch? amidst all this magnificent beauty to spot by the great big smiles on wondering, “how can I hold onto our faces. As the official, non- We’ve all experienced the same. this feeling? How can I help profit group supporting the Big In fact, we never lost that feeling. preserve this special place?” Let Bend Ranch State Park complex, You can do it too, through the us help you accomplish that! which includes Barton Warnock park’s official friends group. Since 2009, a hardy group of Visitor Center and Fort Leaton Lots of things out here leave a Every step you take to support volunteers have worked to make State Historic Site, we help the mark – and we’re not just talking CDRG moves us forward, and the park even better. Texas Parks and Wildlife about the sun, the prickly Department complete projects on builds a little place in your heart You can see our handiwork vegetation, or miles of rugged this great big chunk of landscape for the wind to blow, the sun to everywhere — from trail road and trail. Every turn of the by acquiring donations and our shine, and the birds to sing. Big maintenance to hosting extreme scenic River Road and jagged fold boots-on-the-ground efforts. That Bend Ranch SP belongs to you! cross-country running and biking of the Solitario flatirons leaves an my friends, is a tall order! imprint on your mind. A quiet events. We also help publish the How to get involved: El Solitario newsletter that you Due to the vastness of this pool of clear water in a shaded Donate your dollars, time, and love . hold in your hands. Our mission is country, there’s always work to be tinaja and the rustling of Become a member at the CDRG to help improve park facilities and done. We need your help! cottonwood trees can leave you website at www .parkfriends .org . aide in restoration efforts. breathless. The biggest state park Join us. Connect with us. Friend Friend us on Facebook at Friends of in Texas will fill your heart and, if We are the Compadres del us. Donate your time or money. Big Bend Ranch State Park . Or call us you are like us, mark you forever. Rancho Grande (CDRG), “Friends Be a part of it all. at 432-386-6929 .

10 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department art and history Sauceda Unicorn

By Mike Slaton, Compadres del Rancho Grande

Several people have spotted the Sauceda unicorn and we can guarantee that many more will . See it for yourself . It can be found in the middle of the ranch, a mystery lost in time . The Unicorn Defends Itself

Hanging on the dining room wall guests seated at the long dining Stewart, provided as a wedding Because we don’t know when The in Sauceda Ranch House is the table have likely pondered its gift. The couple had six children Unicorn Defends Itself arrived on mythical horse with a spiral horn. origin. and expanded the main house the ranch, we can only imagine during 1950 and 1951 to make which of these families brought it The unicorn is depicted in an 80 x Although the exact date of the room for the large family. to rest here. But we can be sure 50-inch oil painting based on a house’s construction is unknown, that with its multiple bedrooms, a 1490s Dutch tapestry named The the first recorded landowner, During the mid-1970s Robert full kitchen, and screened porch Hunt of the Unicorn which is George A. Howard, probably built Anderson planted palm trees and with views, Sauceda is an oasis of displayed in the Metropolitan a structure in this area between encircled the house and yard with luxury in its desert environment Museum of Art in New York. 1905 and 1908. In 1915 the Bogel low adobe walls. When used as a available for rent by park visitors. When exactly the replica, The Brothers acquired the property. hunting lodge during the 1980s, Unicorn Defends Itself, came to When Gus and Maude Bogel lived the house emphasized leisured outdoor living: screens enclosed hang at Sauceda and who painted here, the house had only two Ask the Ranger at the front the porch, colorful tiles from it is unknown. With raised bedrooms, a bathroom, and one desk for details, read more Chihuahua City, Mexico covered hooves, surrounded by hunters it fireplace located in the living room. at www .tpwd .texas .gov/ the porch floor and a grape arbor is impressively faithful to the Manny and Patricia Fowlkes bigbendranch/ and make provided shade and decoration on original, but has new scenery occupied the house in the late the east side of the house. reservations by calling added to each side to widen the 1930s and filled it with furnishings 512-389-8919 . painting. Over the years many that Patricia’s father, Maco

Reported Dinosaur If on the way to Guale (pronounced at the ranch in the 1950s wah-le) Mesa, which is short for during a period of drought. By Mike Slaton, Guadalupe Carrasco who ran The mechanical monstrosity is Sightings Compadres del Rancho Grande sheep in the area in the early referred to as a silage cutter and 20th century, you may encounter is a remnant of the ingenious a perplexing sight. ranchers, likely of the Fowlkes family era, who used them to Its long, graceful neck peers prepare sotol to feed their above the surrounding sotol and creosote, head turned almost livestock during the great inquisitively, as if startled by drought that brought ranching your approach. Perhaps you’ll do in the Big Bend to its knees. a double take, clear the sweat The sotol would have been hand from your eyes and squint at it harvested, chopped into smaller again, a dinosaur! Reaching this pieces with a “talache” or axe section of Big Bend Ranch surely and fed into the choppers to feels like a trip back in time, so make a finer grade feed for perhaps you are seeing one. cattle on the ranch.

On closer inspection—and once Stop and take a cool drink to your heart slows down a bit—the ponder a while on this interesting reality is almost as strange. Out artifact, one of many historical here in the desert is a modified items that dot the ranch. forage chopper. And if it moves, © Mike Slaton it’s really time to rehydrate. That Enjoy the rest of your drive to Ranger Blaine Hall talks to a park visitor about the sotol cutter. rusting machinery likely arrived Guale Mesa!

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 11 Road Trip! By Cassie Honolka

The Camino del Rio or River Road/FM 170 between Lajitas and Presidio has been labeled one of the most scenic drives in all of the United States. This 47.7-mile road is a roller coaster of 20-mile-per-hour turns, steep grades, and numerous ups and downs. Take time to enjoy the trip through millions of years of geologic time. A kaleidoscope of natural wonders awaits you on this trail of treasures.

Stop on the west side of the road feet above the river! It’s a great at Fort Leaton State Historic stop for those wishing to watch Chase A. Fountain, TPWD Site near Presidio to learn more an incredible sunrise or sunset. Starry sky time lapse at Contrabando Movie Set off FM 170 about the history and culture of A little further east you’ll find the area during the 1800s when the picnic teepees which are a the Big Bend truly was the Wild shady spot to rest. West. Contrabando Movie Set gives Starry Night On the east side check out the you a glimpse into the film- By Cassie Honolka Barton Warnock Visitor Center, making that goes on in the Big where you can tour exhibits and Bend. This particular set was “I know nothing with any certainty, but the sight of a desert garden to learn more used in several Western films. the stars makes me dream ”. — Vincent van Gogh about the human and natural history of the borderlands. Ask Four campgrounds are accessible from FM 170 as well as several Welcome to the darkest skies in Following what was likely a about scheduled interpretive Texas! On a clear night at Big gorgeous sunset, try these tips programs. miles of hiking and biking trails. For a short hike consider the Bend Ranch you will encounter for stargazing at Big Bend Ranch: Along the road are many places breathtaking views of the Milky Closed Canyon or Hoodoos. Page 1) Use a star chart or tap into to pull off for a picnic or scenic Way and many other celestial 9 has more information on these the free public Wifi at Barton view. Be sure to stop at the bodies with the un-aided eye. and other trails. Warnock, Sauceda Ranger pullout just east of La Cuesta, Texas Parks and Wildlife Station or Ft Leaton to which offers a spectacular view Make sure to gas up in Presidio Department has partnered with of the Rio Grande as it cuts its or Study-Butte; there are no the McDonald Observatory download a stargazing app. Most apps don’t require a cell way through the surrounding facilities located on this portion located in Ft Davis, TX, and Chihuahuan Desert creating of FM 170. This is a road trip the International Dark Sky or Wifi signal to work once Madera Canyon. You’ll be 500 you won’t soon forget! Association (IDA) to save the downloaded. universe! Or at least your view of 2) Travel to a darker area of it from within a Texas state the park or turn off any Rio Grande vista from the Big Hill park. By reducing the numbers lights in your camp. of and choosing better lighting 3) Let your eyes adjust to the fixtures we’re making a big dark for several minutes. difference in how the night sky 4) If you do need a light, shines in our parks. consider using a red light Our night skies are fading fast, and point it at the ground. at the speed of light really, as 5) Be careful where you stand, natural darkness is disappearing. sit and put your hands and An estimated 80 percent of feet! Prickly vegetation and Americans have never seen the wildlife live here too! Milky Way. The culprit: the growing glow of artificial lights. Ask a Park Ranger when the next Lucky for you Big Bend Ranch night sky program is so you can has been designated a 1 on the learn a little more about our Bortle Scale, meaning it is an universe. Research how you can excellent dark sky site and help reduce light pollution in your the only Texas state park with home or city. Thanks for sup- this rating! porting YOUR Texas state parks! TPWD

TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE DEPARTMENT MISSION STATEMENT Big Bend Ranch State Park Fort Leaton State el SOLitarIo To manage and conserve the natural and cultural resources of Texas and to provide Sauceda Ranger Station Historic Site hunting, fishing and outdoor recreation opportunities for the use and enjoyment of HCR 67, Box 33 P.O. Box 2439 Editor Superintendents present and future generations. Marfa, Texas 79843 Presidio, Texas 79845 Cassie Honolka Complex Superintendent — Fax (432) 358-4679 Fax (432) 229-4814 You may view this and other publications through the TPWD website. Please visit Phone (432) 358-4444 Phone (432) 229-3613 Regional Director Nate Gold www.tpwd.texas.gov/publications/. Mark Lockwood Big Bend Ranch Texas Parks and Wildlife General Superintendent Office State Park — Sean Dugan Department Headquarters In accordance with Texas State Depository Law, this publication is available at the HCR 70, Box 375 Barton Warnock 4200 Smith School Road Texas State Publications Clearinghouse and/or Texas Depository Libraries. Terlingua, Texas 79852 Visitor Center — David Long Austin, Texas 78744 Fax (432) 424-3404 Fort Leaton State Historic (512) 389-4800 TPWD receives funds from the USFWS. TPWD prohibits discrimination on the basis of race, color, Phone (432) 424-3341 Site — Tony Gallego (800) 792-1112 religion, national origin, disability, age, and gender, pursuant to state and federal law. To request www.tpwd.texas.gov XX% an accommodation or obtain information in an alternative format, please contact TPWD on a Text Barton Warnock Visitor Center HCR 70, Box 375 Telephone (TDD) at (512) 389-8915 or by Relay Texas at 7-1-1 or (800) 735-2989. If you believe you Terlingua, Texas 79852 have been discriminated against by TPWD, please contact TPWD or the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Fax (432) 424-3404 Office for Diversity and Workforce Management, 5275 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA 22041. Phone (432) 424-3327

Cert no. XXX-XXX-000 © 2015 Texas Parks and Wildlife Department PWD BR P4507-1437 (9/15) www.tpwd.texas.gov/bigbendranch

12 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department