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SUNDAY, DECEMBER 20, 2015 (PAGE-4) MOVIE-REVIEWS TREND Exquisitely crafted epic Flower power Saibal Chatterjee Flowers never go wrong when it Controlled hysteria is what Sanjay Leela Bhansali whips comes to fashion and prints, find up with panache in his first-ever historical epic, Bajirao Mastani. designers. Pramita Bose reports The director, with his sweeping narrative touches, blurs Be it in painting or across the field of fashion, petal pow- the line between fact and fiction in his quest for the grand er rules the roost. Keeping this in mind, designers often con- dramatic moments. Bajirao Mastani has no dearth of sciously choose floral and foliage prints as their creative tool sequences designed to dazzle the eye and move the heart. of expression. So make no mistake to think that springtime The pace of the film, especially in the first half, is some- is the only season to grow gardens in your wardrobe. You may what sluggish. But thanks to the strong central performanc- flaunt a flower-shower all the year round. es by Ranveer Singh and Deepika Padukone, the impressive “Floral motifs are refreshing, feminine and have a time- sets and costumes, and the power of the visuals rustled up less appeal. They are now popular choices all through the year by cinematographer Sudeep Chatterjee, Bajirao Mastani is whether in prétlines or haute couture ensembles,” says never less than watchable. designer Pranay Baidya. According to him, “Digital prints, The film gathers momentum in the second half and especially colourful blossoms will hold sway in the history of Priyanka Chopra, playing Bajirao Peshwa's first wife 21st century art and fashion scene.” Kashibai, gets her due in the drama. Botanical elements are now a favourite around the globe, The CGI-enhanced battlefield action is impressive – Baji- right from international runways to high-street fashion rao Mastani is after all the tale of an 18th century warrior departmental stores. As draper Radhika Singhi says, “Blooms who never lost a battle in a short but eventful life. and buds invariably signify a happy mood and a positive mind It is, however, the love story of the Peshwa and the half- to look young and mint-fresh all the time.” Muslim Bundelkhandi princess Mastani that takes cen- Designer Ritu Seksaria feels that “Only colours, patterns trestage for the most part. and styles keep changing from season to season. Otherwise The principal conflict point in the film hinges on the stiff floralfetish spurts a vibrant splash in all twelve months of the opposition that that the married Peshwa faces from Pune's couturiers’ yearly calendar. At the end of the day, it actually Hindu clergy and his own deeply offended family when Mas- in enhancing the dramatic impact of the tale, but the songs depends on the source of inspiration and how it’s been styled.” tani arrives and lays claim on the man she believes she is do not appear to be organically linked to the narrative. A Also depending on the seasons, designers’ petal passion betrothed to, having received his personal dagger as a gift. restrained but laboured confrontation scene between varies on the sketch-page. “Daisies are best for sunny sum- The two women in Bajirao's life – his wife Kashibai and Kashibai and Mastani sets the stage for the Pinga number mers, while roses in different shades for the lush spring,” says his true love Mastani – are at odds with each other, but in in which the two women come together in an unlikely dance Singhi. Bhansali's universe, neither is allowed to lose her feminine routine. Bajirao Mastani is riddled with several such flights Baidya draws a parallel between evolution of fashion sen- calm and composure in the face of the severest of provoca- of fancy and Bhansali admits as much in a long disclaimer sibilities with that of the natural flora and fauna. “You will tions. The film has another very strong female character – at the film's outset. notice, exotic hues, decadent shapes and innovative printing Bajirao's widowed mother Radhabai. Tanvi Azmi invests the Bajirao Mastani might not be reliable history, but it cer- textures result in new prints every season,” he points out. figure with great force. tainly is pure entertainment of the kind that only Bhansali Lilies and cherry blossoms are his hot favourites. Lately, Bollywood actress and style icon Kangana Ranaut Even when she plots brazenly to humiliate and hound can deliver. So, notwithstanding its flaws and avoidable in, party in or lounge around. Fluid tropical colours import- forayed into the world of fashion with her maiden autumn- Mastani, Radhabai does not turn into a heartless manipu- detours, this is a film that stays on course right down to the ed from natural resources like the sky or the sea capture the winter collection — Marquee — from the premium interna- lator. She is seen only as somebody who is compelled by her bitter end. Bajirao Mastani is an exquisitely, if not accurate- soul of my resort-wear collection,” she sums up. tional fashion brand of Vero Moda. She showed off with flair conditioning to uphold tradition. ly, crafted epic designed for those for whom history might The designers are unanimous in their view that petal and bold dandelions and red velvet prints. Music is supposed to play a key role in Bajirao Mastani not be a big draw. peduncle prints are extremely popular both in domestic mar- Out of the five distinct lines she launched, two were ded- ket as well as abroad. “The floral images have thrived annu- icated to floral stories. The sartorial segment titled Dande- ally in both desi Indian and overseas fashion sectors, because itself. He and his girlfriend run into resistance from quarters they lion Dreams unveils a dreamy array in wasabi and cream it is somewhat effervescent and elegant. It’s a world-wide fad have no control over exactly as his brother had done a decade and chromes with a botanical bouquet, artfully crafted with bead- that both men and women can sport with flair,” says Seksaria. Soulless Dilwale a half ago in Bulgaria. This story of warring guardians and heart- ed embroidery in a buffet of diffused dandelion drawings. On Apart from breezy party-wears and romantic dates, for- breaks is less about affection than about hate and abhorrence, two the other hand, red velvet delineates a radiant classic line In showbiz, nostalgia is a powerful emotion indeed. It can pro- mal social functions like weddings are a perfect plea to parade emotions that come in the way of love. The director, in his signa- heightened with drama and accentuated with laces and rich pel even mediocre cinematic products to enviable heights of suc- floralprints. “Floral outfits with floral jewellery on occasions ture style, throws in a few big action sequences in which cars are floral needlework. The colour palette is concentrated with cess. It is, therefore, understandable why Dilwale has been such like mehendi are a current chart-topper,” shares Baidya. blown up and bodies are riddled with bullets and glossy black and fiery red. The entire sequence has a quality a keenly anticipated Bollywood release. Does the film Movie stars like Nicole Kidman, Angelina Jolie, Aishwarya also falls back on some comic scenes for relief. of grandeur, sophistication and vintage charm to it. meet the expectations? Not quite. Shah Rukh Rai Bachchan, Sonam Kapoor, Ranvir Singh, Preity Zinta and In women’s wear section, Baidya roots for outfits like shift Khan and Kajol, back together on the big The humour in the film is coarse, but with Natalie Portman appear awesome in floral printed attires, say dresses, evening gowns, jumpsuits, swimwear, saris and screen for the first time since 2010's My actors like Boman Irani (as the drug- designers. blouses to look best in floral-leafy prints. For men, shirts, dealing mafia don King), Varun “A lot of other motifs besides flowers can be invested to Name is Khan, are in their elements all casual jackets, Nehru jackets and even floral trousers are ide- Sharma (as the younger hero's develop quirky prints. For example, leaves, seeds and trees the way through. al for the sartorially adventurous. He picks reds, yellows and best friend) and Sanjay Mishra can be innovatively used on a neckline, along the hemmed But, sadly, Rohit Shetty's Dilwale oranges for the shade-card and fabrics like silk or mercerized (as a funky seller of stolen cars borders or even to germinate across a top or a camisole to is such a run-of-the-mill film that cotton to bring out the best in floral designs. and auto parts), a few of the lend an avant-garde twist. It would be all the more interest- even the SRK-Kajol combo cannot Singhi also eyes men’s waistcoats alongwith jackets, while gags do work. But the love sto- ing if added with a teasing texture,” observes Seksaria. lift it out of its morass. It has two dis- the colour-code bends towards muted shades like milky ry is too contrived and convo- To balance a base of heavy floral prints which may involve tinct strands both in terms of its star- whites and beiges. She favours chiffon and satin to flourish luted to be effective. If one still the risk of looking cluttered and congested over a dress, there- cast and with respect to its storyline. floral and foliage themes. keeps watching right until the fore it is important to don the correct jewellery and acces- Varun Dhawan and Kriti Sanon Anupama Dayal takes her floral art to sandy beaches for end, it is solely because of sories to mitigate the overall garish look.