Fashion Icons at the Art Gallery of South Australia

EXCLUSIVE TO ADELAIDE

25 October 2014 – 15 February 2015

Fashions are ephemeral but The Art Gallery of South Australia will host the most significant fashion exhibition ever seen in Adelaide. Fashion is enduring. Fashion Icons: Masterpieces from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris will showcase more than 90 iconic Cecil Beaton garments spanning eight decades by 55 of the world’s leading fashion designers including Dior, Laurent, Chanel, Fashion Icons is one of the most ambitious exhibitions Cardin, Dolce & Gabbana, Givency, Laroche, Balmain, ever held at the Art Gallery of South Australia. It is a Galliano, Westwood, Rabanne and Yamamoto. privilege to be working with the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Exclusive to Adelaide, Fashion Icons will be drawn from esteemed curator Pamela Golbin and international designer the most comprehensive collection of French fashion in Christian Biecher to bring the very best of French fashion the world, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs and is curated by to Adelaide. We anticipate that an exhibition of this calibre the museum’s Chief Curator of 20th and 21st Centuries and content will have broad cross-generational appeal and Fashion and Textile, Pamela Golbin. provide inspiration to the Australian fashion industry. Fashion Icons will paint a unique picture of Parisian style Nick Mitzevich, within the context of contemporary fashion design since Director, Art Gallery of South Australia 1947 when the couturier Christian Dior re-launched Haute Couture with his New Look. He did so in a Paris struggling I am delighted to work with Art Exhibitions Australia to with the aftermath of the Second World War. With style bring this exhibition to the Art Gallery of South Australia. and panache, he reignited the fashion industry; flaunting Fashion Icons is a unique presentation which will bring clothing restrictions, his haute couture announced the together and unveil for the first time some of the most return of beauty and glamour. iconic masterpieces of the history of fashion kept in our From that time fashion design blossomed with the collections. Starting with the world renowned New Look lavish splendour and glamour of the 1950s, the futurist of Christian Dior, the exhibition will reveal the extraordinary dynamism, feminism and sexual liberation of the 1960s rebirth of fashion after World War II until the present and the inspired emancipation of the 1970s – the time time. We are proud and honoured to have the opportunity which Paco Rabanne created his notorious space-age to share the best of our collections with the Australian shift dresses from metal disks worn famously by the audience. singer Brigitte Bardot and the time when Saint Laurent Olivier Gabet, introduced the trouser suit for women. Then there was the Director, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris unbridled excess of the 1980s which was a time associated with power dressing and the age of spectacular fashion shows and the supermodel and then there was the pure minimalism of the 1990s, all inspiring today’s composite The works selected for this exhibition perfectly illustrate portrait of the 21st century. the style of each of the mythical couturiers behind this Ever responsive to a changing world, fashion in the history of luxury and sumptuousness. Spectacular designs 21st century has seen the rise of men’s couture and by Cristobal Balenciaga, Gabrielle Chanel and Yves Saint the cult of celebrity fashion. Included in the exhibition is Laurent follow one another in this chronological review, Dolce & Gabbana’s chrome bustier dress made famous revealing the universality of fashion viewed as a history of by Lady Gaga. art and beauty. This exhibition has been made to measure especially Pamela Golbin, for Adelaide. The works have not been previously seen Chief Curator, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris in Australia. Fashion Icons is supported by a fully illustrated catalogue. The South Australian Government is proud to support Fashion Icons: Masterpieces from the Collection of the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, Paris at the Art Gallery of South Australia. This magnificent exhibition represents a rare opportunity for Australian audiences to experience French fashion from 1947 to the present day. Jay Weatherill, Premier of South Australia

Designers for Fashion The 50s

The couture of the late 1940s and Icons 1950s was defined by supreme elegance, with voluminous ball gowns by Dior and Balenciaga. The feminine form returned and emphasised tiny waistlines, full hips and bust, and lavish full skirts. Paris reasserted itself as the fashion capital of the world.

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Christian Dior Lucile Manguin Jacques Fath Rochas Grès Guy Laroche Balenciaga Charles James Jean Dessès The 60s Pierre Balmain The swinging sixties were about sub-cultures, ethnic fashions and women’s liberation. Art, music and fashion connected in the presentation couture shows, with Paco Rabanne a leading figure. Mini-skirts, flat shoes and bold graphics in primary colours dominated.

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Grès Paco Rabanne Chanel Pierre Cardin Balenciaga Christiane Bailly Courrèges Emanuel Ungaro Bernard et François Baschet Pierre Balmain clockwise from top left: Christian Dior, Bar suit, Givenchy Haute couture, Spring/Summer 1947, shantung jacket; skirt pleated in wool crepe by Gérondeau Michèle Rosier et Cie, Les Arts Décoratifs, UFAC collection, Fashion and Textiles, gift of Christian Dior, 1958. Emilio Pucci Photograph: Les Arts Décoratifs/Jean Tholance Grès, Day dress, Haute couture, Autumn/Winter 1948, silk gros de Tours by Bianchini Ferier, Les Arts Décoratifs, UFAC collection, Fashion and Textiles, gift of Madame Quernel, 1967. Photograph by Nepo, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs, Photo Library Paco Rabanne, Evening mini-dress, Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 1968, hammered or smooth aluminium plates, aluminium links, Les Arts Décoratifs, UFAC collection, Fashion and Textiles. Photograph: Les Arts Décoratifs/Jean Tholance

The 70s

Popular culture was obsessed with denim jeans, glam rock fashion and hippy clothes. Pierre Balmain responded with high-end street wear. Sonia Rykiel found success with ready-to-wear knitwear that suited the needs of younger women wanting a less formal, more semi-sportswear look.

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Jacques Estérel Pierre Cardin Courrèges Yves Saint Laurent The 80s Claude Montana Guy Laroche Strong women and the associated Jean Muir power dressing of the 1980s are Bruce et Chantal Thomass resplendently conveyed through the couture of Thierry Mugler, Claude Emanuel Ungaro Montana and Azzedine Alaïa. This was Kenzo JAP the age of spectacular fashion shows Karl Lagerfeld pour Chloé and the supermodel, with Jerry Hall a Pierre Balmain favourite of Mugler and Grace Jones Sonia Rykiel of Alaïa. Big hair, big jewellery and big shoulder pads were all part of the Issey Miyake ostentatious style.

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Yves Saint Laurent Claude Montana Thierry Mugler Jean Paul Gaultier Christian Lacroix top left: Paco Rabanne, Long evening cape, Haute couture, Spring/Summer 1969, transparent Patrick Kelly sheets of resin containing dried flowers, ostrich feathers, metal mesh, Les Arts Décoratifs, UFAC Popy Moreni collection, Fashion and Textiles, gift of Paco Rabanne, 1994, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs, Anne Marie Beretta UFAC collection.Photograph: Les Arts Décoratifs/ Jean Tholance Yohji Yamamoto middle left: Pierre Balmain, Ensemble: jumpsuit, Jacqueline Jacobson matching helmet, Haute couture, Autumn/Winter 1977, ostrich skin, Les Arts Décoratifs, UFAC Claude Montana collection, Fashion and Textiles, gift of Pierre Balmain, 1979. Photograph by François Gonin, Azzedine Alaïa Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs, Photo Library bottom left: (left) Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Jean-Charles for Ko and Co, La Joconde, long dress, Ready- to-wear, Autumn/Winter 1983-1984, Les Arts Emanuel Ungaro Décoratifs, Fashion and Textiles collection, on loan from the Centre National des Arts Plastiques Comme des Garçons – Ministère de la Culture et de la Communication, 1986. (right) Patrick Kelly, Evening dress, Ready- Karl Lagerfeld pour Chanel to-wear, Autumn/Winter 1989-1990, Les Arts Décoratifs, Fashion and Textiles collection, gift of Elaine and Harold Blatt, 2005. Art direction/ photography: Thierry Dreyfus for Eyesight Group top right: Yves Saint Laurent, Picasso, short evening dress and hat, Haute couture, Autumn/ Winter 1979, moire silk faille by Taroni, appliquéd silk satin by Brossin de Méré; belt of silk satin by Moreau; wool felt hat, Les Arts Décoratifs, Fashion and Textiles collection, purchase, 1993. Photograph: Les Arts Décoratifs/Jean Tholance

The 2000s

Ever-responsive to a changing world, fashion in the twenty-first century represents a composite style and shifts even more rapidly than the traditional haute couture fashion cycle. Men’s couture grows in momentum, as does the cult of celebrity fashion. Dolce & Gabbana’s chrome bustier and Comme des Garçons’s Illusion dress were made all the more famous by Lady Gaga. Recent trends have ranged from 1920s-inspired drop-waisted, embellished dresses to 1950s-style FI G22 2000 pattern 10210x4575final.pdf 1 23/09/2014 1:02 pm full-skirted dresses.

The 90s Featured Designers

In the early 1990s unrestrained Alexander McQueen pour excess was replaced by pure Givenchy minimalism. The fitted dress resurged Olivier Theyskens pour rochas and all-white collections reflected an era of new conservatism and Christian Lacroix nostalgia. Young British designers Helmut Lang took on the Parisian fashion houses Alber Elbaz pour Lanvin and reinvigorated the fashion world, Hussein Chalayan with Alexander McQueen at Givenchy Nicolas ghesquiÈre pour from 1996 and John Galliano with Dior from 1997. Balenciaga John Galliano

FI G22 90 wall pattern 9520x4565final.pdf 1 23/09/2014 1:04 pm Featured Designers Raf Simons Dolce & Gabbana Patrick Kelly Valentino Montana pour Lanvin Comme des Garçons John Galliano pour Christian Dior Yohji Yamamoto Karl Lagerfeld pour Chanel Hedi Slimane pour Yves Saint Martin Margiela Laurent Comme des Garçons Helmut Lang Véronique Branquinho John Galliano Dries van Noten Ann Demeulemeester Walter Van Beirendonck

Karl Lagerfeld pour Chanel top right: Christian Lacroix, Sheath evening gown with train, Haute couture, Spring/Summer 2000, Vivienne Westwood silk tulle sleeves, neckline and modesty piece; boned bodice and sheath in a patchwork of printed silk crepe strips, trimmed with silk satin, Les Arts Décoratifs, Fashion and Textiles collection, gift of Christian Lacroix (Paris) and Simon, Jérôme, Léon Falic (Bal-Harbour, Florida), 2009. Photograph: Les Arts Décoratifs/Jean Tholance bottom right: (left) Comme des Garçons, Dress, top left: Jean Paul Gaultier, Costume for Régine Ready-to-wear, Autumn/Winter 2012–2013, Les Chopinot’s choreography Le Défilé 1985, silk satin and Arts Décoratifs, Fashion and Textiles collection, piped cotton satin corset adorned with lace ribbon, purchased with the aid of Louis Vuitton, 2012. quilted silk satin and garters; synthetic bubbled tulle (right) Valentino, Evening suit, Haute couture, leggings; Head dress by Stephen Jones, Les Arts Autumn/Winter 2007–2008, Les Arts Décoratifs, Décoratifs, Fashion and Textiles collection, gift of the Fashion and Textiles collection, gift of Valentino, Ballet Atlantique – Régine Chopinot, 2006. Photograph: 2008. Art direction/photography: Thierry Dreyfus Thierry Dreyfus for Eyesight Group for Eyesight Group

About the Musée des Arts Décoratifs Fashion Icon details

Founded in Paris over 150 years ago by collectors, Exclusive to Adelaide industrialists and artistans concerned with the quality and design of everyday objects, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs 25 October 2014–15 February 2015 is housed in the Marsan Wing of the Palais du Louvre on the Rue de Rivoli. It is one of the largest collections of Art Gallery of South Australia, decorative art in the world and provides a unique panorama North Terrace, Adelaide of the history of furniture, glass, ceramics, precious Daily 10am–5pm metalwork, jewellery, textiles, fashion, graphic design and advertising. Known as one of the most important fashion and textile departments in the museum world, the collection of Les Arts Décoratifs reveals the history of Tickets now on sale fashion from the 17th century to today. Adult $25 Concession $20 Events Program Gallery Member $16 The Art Gallery of South Australia will be holding a series of Family (2 adults and up to 3 children aged 5–12) $55 special events over the duration of the exhibition including Student (12 years and over) $10 lectures, talks, films, tours and workshops. Details are Child (5–11 years) $5 available at www.artgallery.sa.gov.au Child (0–4 years) Free Fashion Icons has been organised by Musée des Arts Become an Art Gallery Member and receive a FREE ticket Décoratifs, Paris in association with Art Exhibitions to the exhibition Australia and the Art Gallery of South Australia. For further information visit fashionicons.com.au Art Gallery Food + Wine Packages Available to purchase from the restaurant MEDIA CONTACT Breakfast and Ticket Package $47 Lunch and Ticket Package $60 Susanne Briggs, Communications Manager, Art Gallery of South Australia E [email protected] T 08 8207 7156 M 0412 268 320

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Fashion Icons has been organised by Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris in association with Art Exhibitions Australia and the Art Gallery of South Australia.