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MARCH 2007 NO. 138 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

Kate Debuts at St. Martin Classic on page 14 — see story CHRIS DOYLE MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

ROTTEVEEL Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane Legendre Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution - Gladys Jones Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Bob and Judi Goodchild Tel: (473) 443-5784, [email protected] Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Meriea Steven Ad Sales & Distribution - Giselle Sankar Cruising Crossword ...... 37 Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 38 Dolly’s Deep Secrets...... 38 Book Reviews ...... 40 Cooking with Cruisers...... 42 Readers’ Forum ...... 47 Classified Ads...... 52 Advertisers’ Index ...... 52 Calendar...... 54 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 634-2055, Fax: (868) 634-2056 [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, [email protected] Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 [email protected] Martinique: Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452-8490, Mob: (758) 713 4205 [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/St. Kitts & Nevis: Distribution - Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850 Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 Tip Top Tour Angel Falls is it...... 28 New Crew Blues with strangers...... 34 Dinghy Thingy Ditch those davits!...... 26 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the ISSN 1605 - 1998 DEPARTMENTS www.caribbeancompass.com MARCH 2007 • NUMBER 138 MARCH 2007 • NUMBER is published monthly by We support free speech! sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2007 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. the Whales Distribution - Hubert J. Winston, Distribution - Norman Faria Distribution - Cees de Jong Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch

Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 560-4199, cell 774-6657 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 426-0861 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, [email protected] Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Caribbean Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Business Briefs...... 7 Meridian Passage ...... 10 Regatta News ...... 11 Different Boats ...... 15 Destinations ...... 16 Product Postings...... 24 All Ashore...... 28 Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 36 Island Poets ...... 36 Caribbean Compass Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] JOOKE ROBBINS/NOAA JOOKE St. Kitts a Hit Cruisers say ‘don’t miss it’.....16 Captain Utz A real man of the sea ...... 22 Safer Sister sanctuaries set up...... 8 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Look at Sea Monthly The Caribbean’s

ELLEN SANPERE St. —Continued on next page & Updates For full details visit: NOW AVAILABLE! Bob and Phyllis Mercer S/V Ooh La La Florida www.caribbeancompass.com which has appeared in all three Pirates of the Caribbean movies. which has appeared in all three Pirates of the Caribbean The Compass ON-LINE SUBSCRIPTIONS is our connection to our second and most favorite home! Dear Compass, Whimsical Redondan Tradition Continues Mongoose Bar & On January 6th there was a unique celebration at the Mad 2007 New Year’s Honours List. Restaurant in Falmouth, Antigua — the King of Redonda’s The king of where? girls in a row, Matthew A hundred and twenty-six years ago, after eight baby overjoyed to have a son. An Dowdy Shiell, a successful trader from Montserrat, was past the tiny uninhabited idea crossed his mind a few days later when he sailed have his new son crowned island of Redonda on a trading voyage. It was to try to the island belonged to Great the first King of Redonda. There was only one hitch — London to grant him his Britain. Undaunted, Shiell began to bombard officials in a letter arrived from the wish. For months his bombardment met with silence. Then he could become the King Foreign Office saying that if the boy “behaved himself” by the British Government of Redonda at age 15. The Kingdom is still recognised and the Colonial Office. where the Bishop of When the lad reached 15, a small group set sail to Redonda, a stony beach and the Antigua, Dr. Hugh Semper, performed a ceremony on in England and eventually Kingdom began. The newly crowned king went to study became a writer with over 30 novels to his credit. since 1880, with the first There have been four Kings of (still uninhabited) Redonda Bald” Williamson, was “ruling” for 47 years. The present king, Bob “Robert the topsail schooner crowned in 1998 and lives in Falmouth near his square-rigged annual carnival. Sail in next year and let your boat dog join the fun! annual carnival. Sail in next year and let your boat dog For more information visit www.stcroixhappenings.com. Peter

St. Croix’s Canine Crew St. Croix’s Canine Dog Parade held on the Christiansted the Krewe de Barkus And in more silliness, unique of Mardi Croix, St. Croix’s January 27 marked the beginning Boardwalk on Info MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 BEQUIA BEACHFRONTVILLAS Come inandseeusforallyour www.bequiabeachfrontvillas.com [email protected] 8-5-43or284-495-4467800-367-8455(waitforring) 784-457-3423 SAILS &CANVASSAILS BIMINI &DODGER e-mail: [email protected]/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527(evenings) including GRENADINES (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) CUSTOM-MADE BEQUIA Located oppositeG.Y.E. frames atcompetitiveprices SAILS &CANVAS stainless steel mile longbeach. views juststepsdownthe and spectacularpanoramic high beamedceilings, featuring verylargerooms, are beautifullyappointed, Friendship BayBeach located directlyon 1-4 bedroomvillas These luxurious Bequia -Triple Diamonds. approved propertyon Design &theonlyAAA Featured Architectural a FortRecoveryResort needs Checkers wasalwayscalmandpleasanttoworkwithwillbesadlymissed. Authority aswellyachtsandlocalmarinebusinesses. both automotiveandmarinework,hehadtakenonjobsfortheGrenadaPort business withaworkshopnexttohishomeinSprings,St.George’s.Hewasbusy Grenada Marine,andhadrecentlysetuphisownmechanicalengineering Checkers wasanexperiencedmarinemechanicwhoworkedforsomeyearsat those whoknewhim.Heleavesapartner,Esther,andyoungdaughter. was afitandhealthy36-year-old,sothisterribleshockforhisfamilyall sleep intheearlyhoursofSunday,11thFebruary.ThepopularGrenadianmechanic Anita Suttonreports:LeslieJoseph,betterknownasCheckers,passedawayinhis LESLIE ‘CHECKERS’JOSEPH Eight Bells oceanographer attheUniversityofVirginIslands,toldTierramérica. increases, thehurricaneseasonwillbestrongerandlastlonger,”RoyWatlington, of theoceansismostimportantfactorinformationahurricane.Ifit to stormsurges,amplifyingtheeffectofmoreintensehurricanes.“Thetemperature Beaches arenaturalbuffers,andtheirdisappearancemakeslandmorevulnerable centimetres (almostone-and-a-halffeet)asaresultofclimatechange. According totheIPCCassessment,inthiscenturysealevelcouldriseup43 with them,thebasisofregion’smarinebiodiversity. of seawater,alsocausedbygreenhousegases,aredestroyingcoralreefs,and and thenaturalenvironment.Furthermore,increasesintemperatureacidity hurricanes, withstrongerwindsandheavierrains,takingaheavytollonhumans phere, ismakingsealevelsriseaspolaricemelts,wellintensifyingstormsand duced byemissionsofgasesthatcausethegreenhouseeffectinEarth’satmos- February 2ndinParis,couldreacha4°Cincreaseby2100.Globalwarming,pro- report oftheIntergovernmentalPanelonClimateChange(IPCC),presented The continuedriseintheEarth’saveragetemperatures,saysFourthAssessment Caribbean andthroughouttheworldcoulddisappearunderseawithinthiscentury. Environment Programme),manybeachesandotherlow-lyingcoastalareasinthe backing oftheUnitedNationsDevelopmentProgrammeand According torecentreportsfromtheTierraméricanewsservice(producedwith Time toHeadfortheHills? free slicesofherchocolatecake. Mongoose, receivedherLadyship,leavingHisMajestywithhopesofhavingmore made aDameoftheKingdom.ConnieKirkpatrick,proprietressMad Marines. ClaireGrace,thedrivingforcebehindanewmarinadownisland,was Simon Pettet,whowasmadeaBrigadierinthenewregimentofRoyalRedonda He enjoyeditsomuchhewasdifficulttostop.Oneofthefirstbeinvested the schooner’ssternflagstaffonfloorandshouting“PraysilencefordeKing”. St. Peter quarters oftheRoyalRedondaYachtClub.TheMajorDomoFlagship honouring theirallegedcontributionstothewhimsicalKingdomatnewhead- In January,severallaw-abiding“citizens”—andevensomesailorsreceivedtitles has hadeightbookspublishedandover2,000storiesarticles. The onlycriteriontobecomeKingofRedondaisthateachmustbeawriter.Bob frompreviouspage —Continued www.caribbeancompass.com N Wir sprechenDeutsch Phone/Fax: 784 4583360email:[email protected] ous parlonsFrançais Hablamos Español Leatherman Accessories Garmin GPS Icom VHF , ErrolFoster“Roachy”Joseph,madehiswaythroughthethrongthumping for themasks. masks, finsandsnorkels.Weevenhaveprescription lenses YOU tosucceed. pride insharingourexpertisewithyoubecausewewant reel tohelpyouwinthenextfishingtournament.Wetake just rightforthespeedofyourboat,orgoarodand Come tousandgettherightscrewswithitonetime. as wellnecessaryaccessoriesandspares. been seekingforages.Weofferawiderangeofhardware Caribbean.” Wanderaround.Youwillfindthingsyouhave Electronics, marineelectronics,12&24volts, inverters, ware, blocks,cleats,SSfasteners,rope,Spectra, pumps, lights, sockets,navigation,charts,guides,marine hard- Diving orsnorkeling?Wehaveitall:suits, tanks, belts, Want tocatchfish?Getasimplehandlinewithlure Looking foratablehinge,hatchspring,orladder? Some peoplecallusthe“mostinterestingshopin hoses, completediving,snorkelingandfishing gear. The ONLYDutyFree Chandlery inBequia —Continued onnextpage —Continued Penn Service Penn Parts Penn Reels and repair MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 Caribbean —Continued on next page Hermitage, Carriacou. coinciding with the Carriacou Regatta Festival. page, with all articles, photos, and page, with all articles, photos, classi- advertisements including the it’s fieds, at home, at work (hey, Every research!) or while traveling. print- page is downloadable and you want able, too, for those articles fami- to file or share with friends and for the ly. And best of all, no waiting postman to arrive! For full details visit us at www.caribbeancompass.com. Fund Carriacou Children’s Education Announces Scholarships Melodye Pompa reports: The Carriacou Children’s Education Fund (CCEF) is an informal, voluntary group including individuals from visiting yachts and local businesspeople. Since 2000, CCEF has conducted fundraising activ- ities during the first week of August at the Carriacou Yacht Club in On-Line Subscriptions Now Available! On-Line Subscriptions Now are now available! On-line subscribers will are now available! On-line funding to five community-based organisations in the organisations five community-based to funding conservation and marine for coastal Grenadines groups experience will give the which “mini-projects”, can hope that they with the projects of implementing largerattract future. funding in the Coastal Areas are The Bequia for 2007 The projects by the Project to be implemented Enhancement The School 4-H Club; Paget Farm Government by the Beautification of Saline Beach Protection and The Coastal & Sporting Committee; Mayreau Regatta the Petite Enhancement Project by Preservation and the Petite Youth Movement and Martinique Catholic Organisation; The Coastal Martinique Women’s Project by the Union Island Plastics Reduction Attackers; and The Fort Murray Environmental Museum Project by the Union Island Enhancement and Ecological Society. Compass to Great news — on-line subscriptions Compass monthly issue, every be able to read each entire ‘Frequent Clearer’ Option for US Boaters for US Option Clearer’ ‘Frequent a has implemented Protection and Border US Customs small boat (LBO) for frequent Option Local Boater Rico. and Puerto in the USVI and passengers operators includ- are also areas in Florida and Tampa The Miami to Border Protection Customs and will allow US ed. This “low-risk” arrival-reporting process for expedite the voluntary, in the LBO program is boaters. Enrollment proce- and will facilitate clearance free of charge boaters to clear in by telephone, dures by allowing of Entry. All US in person at a Port rather than reporting years of age residents over 14 citizens and permanent you participate. In order to participate are eligible to at a US Customs and Border Protection must contact an location and make designated registration to present all required documentation. appointment St. Thomas (340) 774- For more information phone St. Croix (340) 773-1011; 6755; St. John (340) 776-6741; Fajardo (787) 863-0950. Projects Funded Grenadines Coastal Conservation Project has awarded The Sustainable Grenadines The Union Island Environmental Attackers are among those granted funding The Union Island Environmental Attackers are among for coastal conservation mini-projects , English-born John and , English-born , which he designed and , which he designed Arvin Court Herald Tribune Herald built. Barbara said, “We had no equipment. We had built. Barbara said, “We had and enthusiastic and no refrigeration. We were young reckless.” a little naive, but we were never in July 1963, then wait- They reached the Virgin Islands season to set sail for ed until the end of hurricane on their second transat- England early the next year lantic journey. The couple sold their boat in England and returned to the Caribbean in 1965 when Knight was offered a job with a charter boat service. He enjoyed yacht racing and built a second boat, a 23-foot live-aboard cruiser, while living in the Virgin Islands until 1986. The Knights also ran Knight Air Service, an airline handling compa- ny, in the islands. During his retirement, the couple moved to the US, where John created a men’s golf league in Maryland and owned and operated a print shop after moving to Florida in 1994. —Continued page from previous JOHN KNIGHT January 26 John Knight died USVI resident Former lung cancer in disease and kidney after battling 21 to a February 77. According years. He was recent in the obituary his South African wife Barbara crossed the Atlantic wife Barbara crossed the his South African steel- in 1963 in a 46-foot Ocean from Johannesburg hulled , MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 by KimSaundersandDavidHartmanwhoarecurrent- classroom.com. It’sfulloflearningadventureshosted Cruising familiesshouldalsocheckoutwww.floating- Headteacher JudyBelmarattheschool. other nearbybays.Formoreinformationvisit ble fromtheanchoragesatHogIsland,Woburnand Grenadians andresidents.Theschooliseasilyaccessi- Grenada isopentoyoungcruisingchildren,aswell The WoburnPre-PrimarySchoolonthesouthcoastof Educational OpportunitiesforCruisingKids [email protected]. For moreinformationcontactCCEFat just thefirstofmanymorescholarshipsinfuture. of Carriacouinthepastandwehopethattheyare provided theprimaryandsecondaryschoolchildren a naturalextensionoftheassistancethatCCEFhas required textbooks.ThesescholarshipsatTAMCCare EC$500 eachtobeusedhelpcoverthecostof each ofthetwoscholarshiprecipients,alongwith will providefulltuitionfortwoyearsatTAMCC For theschoolyearbeginningSeptember2007,CCEF the labormarket. fessional goalsandtocaterthechangingneedsof ties tohelpindividualsachievetheirpersonalandpro- accessible qualityeducationandtrainingopportuni- Degrees, andCertificates.TAMCCaimstoprovide time programsleadingtoBachelorsandAssociate accredited two-yearcollegeofferingfullandpart- Marryshow CommunityCollege(TAMCC)isafully Community CollegeinCarriacou,Grenada.TA matriculation (twoyears)attheTAMarryshow offer scholarshipstotwoneedy/qualifiedstudentsfor fundraisingallowCCEFto Proceeds fromour2006 Carriacou forthewarmwelcomewealwaysreceive. and isourwayofsaying“thankyou”tothepeople ing yachtsandthelocalpopulationwhosupportus, primarily tothehardworkandgenerosityofvisit- inover400cases.Oursuccessisdue towards thisgoal Since itsinception,CCEFhasprovidedassistance can provide. receive apropereducationandwhatthefamilies the gapbetweenwhatisrequiredforachildto sion istohelpasmanychildrenpossibleandfill tional assistancetothechildrenofCarriacou.Ourmis- provide uniforms,schoolsuppliesandothereduca- During thistime,overEC$40,000hasbeenraisedto frompreviouspage —Continued Have alookat • InterestedinanovelbyyoungCaribbeanauthor? www.grenadagrenadines.com Grenada yachtclearanceformson-lineat yacht • PlanningtosailtheSpiceIsle?LisaKaiserof wealth ofusefulinformationandsuggestions. gena.com/coast+guard-cruiser+alliance.html already? Besuretocheckout • AreyouheadingtoColombiabyboat,orthere Cruisers’ Site-ings classic ly cruisingtheCaribbeanaboardtheir37-footS&S May at10:00 Yacht Club,EnglishHarbour,Antigua,onTuesday8th Marine Association(CMA)willbeheldatAntigua The FirstAnnualGeneralMeetingoftheCaribbean Caribbean MarineAssociationtoMeet cal itemscanbesold. ticated AuctionandClassifiedsectionwhereallnauti- travel logforfriendstoview.Thesitealsohasasophis- top anddigitalcamerawishtokeepanon-line an idealvenueforthosecruiserswhotravelwithlap- Communitycalled • AnthonyToddwrites:IhavestartedanOn-line cles toworthylocalcauses:FrankPearcethe writers havedonatedtheproceedsfromrecentarti- Who sayscruisersarecheap?Thefollowing Charitable Writers went betterwiththearticle’stitleof“SuperSizeMe!” standing headlineforoneofourrecipecolumns— devils thought“PROSPERO’SPANTRYBYFENELLA”—a SUPERYACHT CUPANTIGUA2006”.Butitseemsthe regatta reportonpage10shouldhaveread“THE Compass they haveasenseofhumor.IntheFebruaryissue Okay, we’llblameitonthePrinter’sDevils.Atleast Ooops! www.caribbeanmarineassociation.com. (868) 634-4938,orvisit McIntosh [email protected] For moreinformationcontactCMAManagerSharon industry withintheCaribbeanBasin. geared towardsthedevelopmentofyachting Hallelujah Amanzi , thestandingheadlineaboveDonStreet’s AM . www.lulu.com/delecia . TheCMAisaregionalassociation reminds readersthatyoucanfind Yachtbuddy.com . www.destinationcarta- . Compass . Thisis for a pass.com orphoneSallyat(784)457-3409. Please RSVPbyMarch28thtosally@caribbeancom- contributors there! the of sayingaspecialthank-youtoeveryonewhomakes mention thatthepartyisabsolutelyfree—it’sourway week-end offun.Titoremindedustomakesure Bequia EasterRegatta,soyoucanstayonforawhole Writers’ Brunchisheldjustatthebeginningof ever-popular Mac’sPizzeriainBequia.TheCompass Compass Writers’BrunchonThursdayApril5thatthe dially invitedtobringaguestandjoinusatthisyear’s the you’ve hadanarticle,photoorpoempublishedin The CompassCrewsays:Callingallcontributors!If are fabulous! Your viewpointisappreciated—andtheperks start punchingtypewriterkeysandshutterbuttons. And toallthosewannabecontributors:Iurgeyou and anotheryearofyourtop-notchpublication. Caribbean Compass masthead monikerstofriendlyfaces.Thanksagain, conviviality, aswematchedfamiliarbylinesand vas andblueskies.Toppingitoffwasthespirited into adeliciousmoveablefeastunderbillowingcan- weighed anchor,ourchampagnewelcomeevolved schooner. Astheexpert supporters aboardthehistoric,100-footisland joined othercontributingwriters,photographersand agantly overcompensatedformypoorscreedasI during lastyear’sBequiaEasterRegatta.Ifeltextrav- publication aboardthemagnificent annual Writers’Brunch,graciouslyhostedbysaid highlight cametomind:The ing yearwrappedupinDecember,anindelible2006 Marjorie Mowryreports:Asanothermemorablecruis- Compass Your generosityisappreciated! to theMayreauGovernmentSchoolinMayreau. Community HighSchoolLibrary;andAlLoisLeon Hospital inSt.Vincent;JohnRowlandtotheBequia with SpecialNeeds;SteveJosttoSt.Benedict’sInfant Derek BerrytoBequia’sSunshineSchoolforChildren Primary SchoolinGrenada;KenwynBoshoffand Litter Project;HeatherBacontotheWoburnPre- of SeaServicesinMartiniquetotheBequiaYouth Amazing GraceFoundationinAntigua;CiarlaDecker Compass Compass Annual Writers’Brunch,April5th2007 what itis.Hopetoseeallyou during thepast12months,youarecor- , foramarvelousexperience Friendship Rose Caribbean Compass’s Friendship Rose crew MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 Readers, Compass Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. As cruisers, we share many similar experiences and As cruisers, we share many As we are all aware, St. Lucia has been in the spot- We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or address, and We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Send your letters to: [email protected] or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines There are a number of marine-related products and products of marine-related a number There are concerns. I believe that most of us would say that, concerns. I believe that most our fondest memories despite the lovely surroundings, we meet. Cruising is an are formed around the people broader cross-section of opportunity to meet a far In the short time (20 people than life on land provided. cruising, we have met months) that we have been people. Recently, on many wonderful and interesting family that operates the St. Lucia, we met the & Bar. They are some of Harmony Beach Restaurant anywhere. The food and the finest people we have met we have experienced any- service was some of the best would highly recommend where in the Caribbean. We their Soufriere location. them to anyone stopping near and to your boat, and They will transport you from also provide land-based taxi and tours. light because of recent crimes and the sometimes peskiness of certain boat boys. We believe that the government is making a serious effort to improve the environment for the cruising community. We realize that no place is one-hundred-percent safe. Major North American cities have struggled to reduce crime for two hundred years, and continue to do so. That does not prevent us from visiting places like New York City. St Lucia is a beautiful and interesting island, as are its people. We are happy that we stopped for a visit. Our cruising experience, and our memories, are better because of them. We hope you all take the time to share our positive experience. Tony and Kris S/V Ticketoo Dear Compass Readers, a way we can contact you if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints (kudos are okay!). We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld in print at your request. their units much better and more reliable. Now, they reliable. and more better much units their year in to one as opposed three-year guarantee offer a your money where putting your I call that the past. is. mouth years with over the we’ve dealt businesses that service dol- a lesson from this guy. Investment that could take comes back of approach and service lars in this type We know times over down the road. multiplied many All of us of the coconut telegraph. you’ve all heard and the topic each other at some point cruisers talk to what doesn’t. up of what works and usually comes Not to men- service and who doesn’t. Who gives good the letters new to-be cruisers that read tion all of the on send to cruising magazines we current cruisers these topics. seas to all, Fair winds and following Buddy and Ruth Ellison S/V Annapurna Dear , Compass We are currently in Panama. We left San Francisco We are currently in Panama. Recently, a friend of ours and fellow SSCA member, We recommend Paul and his company with no reser- But most importantly, we have found claim pro- found claim we have importantly, But most There and see for yourself. Go to Medishealth.com our experience, all good For the suspicious (and in “it” is you want on It’s easy to pick the best whatever in 1996 for the start of our circumnavigation. In 1998 we purchased a Four Winds II wind generator directly from the manufacturer, Everfair. We brought the unit down to Mexico from the west coast US and installed it there. Because Mexico has very light air we never could really test the unit until we headed out across the Pacific, eight months later. When we got to New Zealand we discovered we had a multitude of problems. After running around in circles like hamsters on a treadmill with the old management at Everfair and getting the run around from them, too, we got lots of “It’s not our fault; you must have broken it or done something wrong; try to fix it yourself”. Most of the problems were manufac- turing related. circumnavigator Bruce Dage, told us that Everfair has a new name, Four Winds Enterprises, and new man- agement and appeared to be some nice folks (Paul Marcuzzo) who were genuinely interested in helping some unhappy customers from years past. We e- mailed Paul and told him our story. He e-mailed back the next day and with no reservations, went above and beyond the call of duty for us, since we had an unusu- al amount of manufacturing-related problems. He did- n’t have to do anything, since this was before his time, but he did and showed us that there are still some good, honorable business folks around who genuinely care about their customers and their products. Even after the smoke clears. Even if it wasn’t their smoke. This guy went the extra mile for us, so we’d like to go the extra mile for him. vations at all. He’s a good businessman who is inter- ested in manufacturing good products and standing behind them, unlike a lot of marine-related business- es we’ve encountered over the years. Paul also advised me that they have made some changes that have made —Continued page from previous folks painless. The easy and to be relatively cessing your attentive to Group are Assurance at Global service quality of Their and quite responsive. needs and in the US we experienced anything far surpasses can process can scan documents, you Europe. If you know that e- by e-mail. Cruisers claims exclusively care of busi- efficient way to “take mail is the only and else- providers in the US ness” with distant Group years now, Global Assurance where. For six them from the claims we send has been processing — or almost and Europe with nary the Caribbean prompt to If a hitch occurs, they are nary — a hitch. help fix it. without health insur- really is no excuse to go cruising ance these days. have no connection with sailors are suspicious), we no consideration from Global or Generali, and receive have tested a product for them. It’s just that when we work well, then we like to six years, and found it to know that very few things share the experience. We all on boats work as advertised. is whether whatev- the internet. The difficult question your precious cruising er it is you just bought with of time in a difficult envi- dollars will stand the test has done just that; ronment. Our health insurance about. and that’s worth writing home Please sign us, Happily Insured Sailors Dear MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8

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CARRIACOU VHF: 16 research, monitoring, explorationandeducationalprograms. awareness ofmarine resourcesandmaritimeheritageby conductingscientific and plants.TheNOAA NationalMarineSanctuaryProgramseeks toincreasepublic of seabirds,morethan 60speciesoffishes,andhundreds of marineinvertebrates a richassortmentof marinelife,includingmammals, morethan30species Renowned foritsscenicbeautyandremarkable productivity,thesanctuarysupports ocean, stretchingbetweenCapeAnnand CapeCodoffshoreofMassachusetts. transboundary assets.” requirements, including‘sistersanctuary’ relationshipsthatpromoteprotectionfor ecological connectionsbetweenmarine protected areasinordertosatisfyspecies’ actions needed: objectives, thedraftMarineMammalAction Planspecificallyrequeststhefollowing marine mammalconservationpractices and policies.Inordertoaccomplishthese order toassistgovernmentsintheregionwiththeireffortsdevelopandimprove ingreports/MMAP/mmap.php). Thisframeworkofactivitieshasbeendeveloped in Plan fortheWiderCaribbeanRegion”in2005.(Seewww.cep.unep.org/pubs/meet- of theSpeciallyProtectedAreasProtocol,developedadraft“MarineMammalAction achieve this,TheCaribbeanEnvironmentProgrammeofUNEP,undertheframework nerable speciesinsupportofnationalbiodiversityconservationefforts.Inorder to specific regionalandnationalmanagementplansforendangered,threatenedor vul- Development oftheMarineEnvironmentWiderCaribbeanRegionistodevelop Nations EnvironmentProgramme(UNEP)ConventionfortheProtection and socially responsibleframework. research, outreachandpolicystrategywithinanenvironmentallyrelevant and about whatwedo,andmakechoicesanintegratedregional-scaleapproach to human activitiesthataffecttheseanimalsareunlikelytostopbutwecan chemical andhumanfactors,whichinfluencetheirabundancedistribution. The mosaic ofinteractions,includingthepervasivehistorical,geographic,biological, and achievinghighstandardsofpopulationhabitatprotection. with internationalassistance,internalcapacitiesforsettingconservationpriorities ultimately dependuponthecommitmentofcountriestheretobuildandmaintain, boundary animals,successfulconservationofmarinemammalsintheregionwill the WiderCaribbeanRegionhasincreased.Becausemarinemammalsaretrans- program’s visibility—benefitsthatextendfarbeyondthesanctuariesinvolved.” improve ourscientificknowledge,enhancemanagementabilityandincreasethe marine conservationisinvaluable,”saidBasta.“Thisagreementhasthepotentialto gered humpbackwhales,andtheopportunityforinternationalcooperationin whale population,aswelltothedevelopmentoffurthercooperativeagreements. relationship willbecrucialtofutureprotectionoftheNorthAtlantichumpback ing programs.TheNOAANationalMarineSanctuaryProgramanticipatesthatthe agement efforts,includingjointresearch,monitoring,educationandcapacitybuild- mals, theoceansinwhichtheyliveandourresponsibilityasoceanstewards.” to engenderanewdiscussioninoursocietyabouttheimportanceofmarinemam- lished intheregion,anditcontinuestoleadbyexample.Ourbroadestmandateis Region,” saidPuig.“Oursanctuarywasthefirstmarinemammalestab- and establishesthecooperationguidelinesfornextfiveyears. Dominican Republic.Thesistersanctuaryagreementgoesintoeffectimmediately Maximiliano Puig,MinisterfortheEnvironmentandNaturalResources tionship wassignedbyDanielJ.Basta,NOAASanctuaryProgramDirectorandDr. of thisendangeredspecies.” research acrossthesehabitatsmovesusseveralstepsclosertoensuringthehealth Sanctuary superintendentDr.CraigMacDonald.“Coordinatingmanagementand England spendtheirwintersofftheDominicanRepublic,”saidStellwagenBank ery intheNorthAtlantic. ment effortsbetweenthetwosanctuariesandhelpimprovehumpbackwhalerecov- Republic inlatefalltomateandgivebirththeiryoung. Stellwagen BankbeforeheadingsouthtothewarmerwatersofDominican around 900whales,whichspendspringandsummerintherichfeedinggroundsof miles apart,providecriticalsupportforthesamehumpbackwhalepopulationof Marine SanctuaryoffthecoastofMassachusetts,twomarineprotectedareas3,000 Mammal SanctuaryoftheDominicanRepublic)andStellwagenBankNational marine mammalspeciesonbothendsofitsrange. lished theworld’s United States’NationalOceanicandAtmosphericAdministration(NOAA)haveestab- feeding grounds. mating andcalvinggroundsintheDominicanRepublicbacktoNewEngland’s grandmother! Overthepast30years,shehasescortedtenofhercalvesfrom cial relationship—aSisterSanctuary. the UnitedStatesandDominicanRepublichavejoinedhandstoformaspe- the CaribbeanSea.ToprotectSaltandherspeciesonbothendsoftheirmigration, year —swimmingfromthecolderwatersofNorthAtlantictowarm of Migration at BothEnds Protect Humpbacks Sanctuaries to The StellwagenBankNationalMarineSanctuary encompasses842squaremilesof The NorthernSister “…design marineprotectedareasandother managementregimesthatmaintain One ofthegoalsProtocolconcerningSpeciallyProtectedAreastoUnited Our abilitytoprotecthumpbackwhaleswillbedeterminedbyunderstandingthe During thepasttwodecades,awarenessofmarinemammalsandtheirhabitatsin Regional Significance “The sistersanctuaryrelationshipwillplayapowerfulroleinprotectingendan- As sistersanctuaries,thetwositeswillexplorenewavenuesforcollaborativeman- “ The officialmemorandumofunderstandingtocreatethesistersanctuaryrela- “Long-term researchtellsusthatthesameindividualssummeroffNew The sistersanctuaryagreementwasdesignedtoenhancecoordinationinmanage- The SantuariodeMamíferosMarinoslaRepúblicaDominicana(Marine The DominicanRepublic’sMinistryofEnvironmentandNaturalResourcesthe DR andUSPartnerinHistoricConservationEffort Salt wasfirstseeninNewEnglandwatersthemid-1970s.Sheisagreat- A humpbackwhale,named“Salt,”makesa3,000-mileround-tripjourneyeach This conservationactionisimportantasamodelfortheWiderCaribbean first sister sanctuarylinkageprotectinganendangeredmigratory by NathalieWard —Continued onnextpage —Continued think MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Snorkeling RoomMate & Diving Gear Courtesy Flags Collectable Knives SINCE 1950 BEQUIA YACHTSPEOPLE BilgeBuster WEST INDIES FRONT STREET SERVING FISHERMEN AND 401.732.6770 www.quantumpureaire.com Leaders Fresh Bait Rigged & Unrigged Foul Weather Gear Eliminate Mold, Mildew & Odor DUTY FREE Visit us for all your needs EMAIL: [email protected] Wire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Ropes fax: 401.732.6772 [email protected] Quantum Pure Aire Quantum TEL: (784) 458-3420 FAX: (784) 458-3797 USCG Labs Approved Maintenance Free 30 Day Money Back Guarantee TACKLE SHOP TACKLE with Rods & Reels Anglers Lures FISHING & DIVING GEAR FISHING & DIVING

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number of BOATERS BOATERS of number Join the growing growing the Join Breathe Easy Breathe NOAA, an agency of the US mote tourism, marine and business activities within the sanctuary that do not affect the habitat and reproductive cycle of the mammals. This initiative is the result of the ministry’s policy for an open, democratic and participative management based on the cooperation and strategic alliances between the state, local communities, the pri- vate sector and non-govern- mental organizations. is Commerce Department, celebrating 200 years of sci- ence and service to that nation. From the establish- ment of the Survey of the Coast in 1807 by Thomas Jefferson to the formation of the Weather Bureau and the Commission of Fish and

MICHAEL THOMPSON/SBNMS Humpback Whales’ Family Tales year at a “Whale Naming At Stellwagen Bank, humpback whales are named each humpback whales migrate From their summer feeding grounds in high latitudes, to March), a humpback Born in warm, tropical waters of the Caribbean (January which has a very high fat The calf, born tail-first, nurses on the mother’s rich milk nine or ten months The transition from nursing to feeding begins at around During the feeding season (April to October), a humpback whale may consume up Humpback whales reach sexual maturity at six to ten years of age or when males Humpbacks do not eat during winter months, subsisting instead on reserves of fat Scientists estimate the average life span of humpbacks to be between 30 to 50 For more information visit: Dominican Ministry of Environment www.medioambi- Dr. Nathalie Ward, External Affairs Coordinator for Stellwagen Bank National Marine The Southern Sister The Southern in was established Sanctuary Humpback Whale Silver Bank 1986, the In October Partners in Conservation the Ministry more than ten institutions, year 2000 by the merger of Created in the Party.” The underside of a humpback’s tailflukes have a distinctive black and white Party.” The underside of a humpback’s tailflukes have like human fingerprints. pigmentation pattern, unique to every individual, just Stellwagen Bank boasts Researchers name whales based on these coloration patterns. is the great-grandchild of four generations of humpback whales. Born in 2001, Eden who gave birth to Eden.) Veil. (Veil gave birth to Batik, who gave birth to Filament, grounds in the tropics. The thousands of miles to their winter calving and mating Caribbean is approximately a humpback migration between New England and the 3,000-mile round trip. at birth, and weighs up to 1 whale is between ten and 15 feet (3 to 4.5 metres) long ton (907 kg) — the size of two pick-up trucks. for human milk and three content — 35 to 50 percent compared with two percent drunk daily. During the first to five percent for cow’s milk). Hundreds of litres are a day or almost 100 pounds six months of its life, the calf can grow almost an inch the calves need to build a (45.45 kg) per day. This weight gain is important because waters of the North Atlantic. thick blubber layer for their migration north to the cold how to catch fish. During the (October/ November), when the calf begins to learn including filter feeding Fall, calves “experiment” with different feeding techniques the water through baleen (taking large gulps of water below the surface and filtering surface to corral fish) and kick plates), bubble feeding (releasing large bubbles to the swimming prey). feeding (slamming her tail down on the surface to stun to a ton (1,361 kg) of food a day — easily over a million calories! Or they can eat about 5,000 sand lance. Each sand lance has fed on hundreds of zooplankton, that in turn has fed on millions of diatoms. So, one meal for a humpback may represent more than 400 million diatoms. reach the length of 35 feet (11.6 m) and females reach 40 feet (15 m). Each female typically bears a calf every two or three years and the gestation period is 11 to 12 months. A calf will travel with its mother for 9 months to a year, learning everything it needs to know to survive on its own. built up over the summer feeding season. In fact, female whales may lose up to a third of their body weight during the nursing period, which can last up to a year. years, although no one knows for certain. ente.gov.do; Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary stellwagen.noaa.gov; NOAA www.noaa.gov; NOAA National Ocean Service www.oceanservice.noaa.gov; US National Marine Sanctuary Program sanctuaries.noaa.gov. Sanctuary, negotiated the sister sanctuary memo of understanding. Since 1990, she has served as marine mammal consultant for the United Nations Environment Programme/Specially Protected Areas and its draft Marine Mammal Action Plan. She divides her time as a marine biologist and marine mammal educator between Bequia, Saint Vincent & the Grenadines, and Woods Hole, Massachusetts. For additional infor- mation about the sister sanctuary relationship, please contact [email protected] or [email protected]. Fisheries in the 1870s, much of the United States’ scientific heritage is rooted in Fisheries in the 1870s, much of the United States’ scientific security and national safety NOAA. NOAA is dedicated to enhancing economic climate-related events and through the prediction and research of weather and by providing environmental information service delivery for transportation, and resources. Through the stewardship of the United States’ coastal and marine NOAA is working with its emerging Global Earth Observation System of Systems, Commission to devel- federal partners, more than 60 countries and the European as the planet it observes, pre- op a global monitoring network that is as integrated dicts and protects. the Dominican Republic to protect the mating, calving and nursery grounds of hump- grounds and nursery the mating, calving to protect Republic the Dominican and part Navidad Bank to include was extended the sanctuary In 1996, back whales. grounds in Dominican breeding main humpback the three Bay, covering of Samana de Mamíferos was renamed Santuaria At this time the sanctuary Republic waters. mammals within it protects all marine Republica Dominicana. Today, Marinos de la located approxi- sanctuary, Silver Bank, area. Within the its 19,438-square-mile Caribbean Sea, Republic coast in the northeast of the Dominican mately 50 miles Atlantic. found in the North densest concentration of humpbacks represents the of the is one of the young ministries and Natural Resources of Environment environ- and manage the country's Its mission is to protect Dominican Republic. development. of reaching sustainable resources with the objective ment and natural the whale observation period of January to March, Every year, during the humpback with local and governmental institutions to pro- ministry establishes an agreement —Continued page from previous Research Techniques to Learn About Humpback Whales

by Nathalie Ward

What? Who? When? How? Where? Determining population size is crucial to the conservation of marine mammal species. With humpback whales, two forms of identification are used — photo iden- tification and genetics. What’s in a Tail? Photo-Identification Humpback whales have unique patterns on the undersides of their tails. Photographs of these patterns allow scientists to identify and keep records of indi- vidual animals. Based on this work, it has been estimated that there are nearly 12,000 individuals in the North Atlantic. Approximately 900 of these are estimated to be Gulf of Maine “residents” and some have been tracked since 1974. Each Gulf of Maine whale also has a name inspired by its unique tail pigmentation and agreed upon by researchers and naturalists. Over the years, four generations of Gulf of Maine humpback whales have been tracked by photo-identification techniques. This research has greatly improved our understanding of humpback whale migration, habitat use, behavior and anthropogenic impacts.

Ventral fluke pattern of the whale named Salt. Each humpback whale tail is different

A Pinch of Skin — Biopsy Darting MERIDIAN PASSAGE Samples for genetic analysis are obtained by shooting a small dart from a cross- bow at the whale. The dart takes a small sample of skin and blubber before bounc- ing off into the water. Back in the laboratory, DNA extracted from the sample can OF THE MOON address questions such as the sex of each individual, population structure, evolu- tionary history, paternity of offspring, and social relationships. Loyal Subjects — Research Findings Using photo-identification and genetic analysis, scientists are able to conclude that humpback whales are “loyal” to their northern feeding grounds yet mix with

MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 other groups of humpbacks on their tropical breeding grounds. Whales from the MARCH & APRIL Gulf of Maine, Newfoundland, Labrador, Norway, Greenland and Iceland meet annually in the West Indies where mating takes place. At the end of the season, the animals return to their respective feeding grounds with the newborns following their mothers. Mixing of the genes from different feeding populations is believed, among Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your other things, to contribute to the resilience of humpback whales. Despite having passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of been greatly reduced in numbers in the North Atlantic by intensive 19th and 20th Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian century whaling, humpbacks appear to be making a strong recovery throughout passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you calculate the tides. much of the North Atlantic. Studies on Stellwagen Bank and elsewhere in the Gulf Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to of Maine show that the population is growing at between four and six-and-a-half the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon percent annually. reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s Interested in Assisting with Research? setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon Tail fluke photographs are critical to research and future conservation of hump- after its rising, the tide runs westward. Times given are local. back whales throughout their range. If you have humpback whale fluke photos from Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. the Caribbean region, please send to the following address with your name and con- Fair tides! tact information for crediting as well as date, place, longitude/latitude and any other relevant information. March 2007 21 1413 9 0455 Nathalie Ward, Director DATE TIME 22 1510 10 0550 Eastern Caribbean Cetacean Network 1 2249 23 1608 11 0645 [email protected] 2 2333 24 1710 12 0738 Did You Know? 3 0000 (full) 25 1810 13 0830 • One of the baleen whales, humpback whales are found in all oceans of the world. 4 0014 26 1907 14 0920 • Newborn humpbacks average 14 to 16 feet long and grow to 45 to 55 feet when 5 0053 27 1959 15 1011 adults (females tend to be bigger). 6 0132 28 2047 16 1102 • Adults weigh up to 45 tons. 7 0212 29 2132 17 1155 • From their summer feeding grounds in high latitudes (in both northern and 8 0253 30 2213 18 1252 (new) southern hemispheres), humpback whales migrate thousands of miles to their win- 9 0337 31 2253 19 1352 ter calving and mating grounds in the tropics. The humpback migration between the 10 0423 20 1455 sanctuaries in New England and the Dominican Republic is approximately a 3,000- 11 0514 April 2007 21 1558 mile round trip. The longest humpback whale migration is one documented 12 0607 DATE TIME 22 1658 (through photo-identification) between the Antarctic Peninsula and Central 13 0703 1 2332 23 1753 America, a one-way distance of over 5,000 miles. 14 0800 2 0000 24 1849 • Females reach sexual maturity at between five and ten years of age, and will 15 0856 3 0011 (full) 25 1930 calve every two to three years thereafter. 16 0951 4 0052 26 2013 • Humpbacks do not eat during winter months, subsisting instead on reserves of 17 1044 5 0134 27 2053 fat built up over the summer feeding season. 18 1135 (new) 6 0220 28 2132 • In fact, female whales may lose up to a third of their body weight during the 19 1226 7 0309 29 2211 nursing period which can last up to a year. 20 1318 8 0401 30 2251 • They can live to be 50 years old, possibly much longer. MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 to a into sec- Virago , had the services , had the Streaker —Continued on next page , and Eddie Baretto’s Hinckley 40 , and Eddie Baretto’s Sunshine Virago. Caccia Alla Volpe Caccia Alla Virago. beat Sandy Mair’s Soveral 30, beat Sandy Mair’s and April 9th , the Feeling 38 from Guadeloupe, in third position. In the from Guadeloupe, in third , the Feeling 38 Huey Too Huey Too , the Vallicelli 44 owned by Carlo Falcone, was the overall winner was by Carlo Falcone, 44 owned , the Vallicelli April 5th - Marie Marie finished first and second respectively. Along with the racing, there were second respectively. Along finished first and Notice of Race Phone: (784) 457-3649 e-mail: [email protected] & Yacht pre-Registration: The record-breaking 173-pound tuna caught by Ian Hutson from Barbados The record-breaking 173-pound tuna caught by Ian Hutson New Round Antigua Record Set Record Antigua Round New Swan 100 raced his Richard Archer reports: Skipper Hughes Ian “Magic” Round Antigua seconds in the and 41 hours, 34 minutes best time of five record 21 January. of 20 and the weekend race over Alla Volpe Caccia of Bernie Wong’s ahead Cup, Russel winner of the America’s world’s top skippers, two-time of one of the Coutts, on board. Class, In the Racer/Cruiser ond place and Lammers’ Rhodes 41, Classic Class, Hans Moonshadow Ms Streaker. the Island show, won by events, including the Miss Round some sideline Rum all Last Lemming and English Harbour Bar, Antigua Slipway, Castaways Beach and Charles Antigua Yacht Club Marina event. Carlo Falcone of the supported the Tom and Inga, boats over the weekend. with free dockage for the Kenlock assisted boat, as well as Lord Jim’s Locker, played major two members of the committee roles in the success of the race. Yacht Club visit www.antiguayachtclub.com. For more information on Antigua Billfish Tournament Tuna Tops 38th Spice Island weather, calm seas and promise of good fishing Gary Clifford reports: The good 167 anglers to Grenada’s 38th Spice Island Billfish helped attract 37 boats carrying Yacht Club from January 23rd to 26th. Boats par- Tournament held at The Grenada of Scotland, St. Lucia, Barbados, Martinique and, ticipated from Trinidad & Tobago, fulfilled expectations. course, Grenada. The fishing www.begos.com/easterregatta

ELS KROON FOR WWW.CLASSICREGATTA.COM from Anguilla. Charm III • Crazy Craft Race • Sandcastle Competition • Shore Activities • Lay Day Beach Splash BEQUIA EASTER REGATTA 2007 BEQUIA EASTER Charm III

Bequia Sailing Club

• Yacht Races • J 24 Races • Local Double-Ender Races • Coconut Boat Races Pretty was the St. Maarten- St. Martin Classic’s overall winner only ten of the 18 yachts registered were able to race, this was up nicely from the only ten of the 18 yachts registered year’s inaugural event. six yachts that entered last the fleet was divided into Racing in what organizers describe as “perfect” conditions, guaranteeing a podium place three classes — Vintage, Classic and Spirit of Tradition — for almost everyone. The overall winner was Richard West’s

St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Grows St. Maarten-St. on January Yacht Regatta started St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic The second 2007 Spinnaker bar an opening party at the skippers’ briefing followed by 18th with the Although next to the Simpson Bay bridge. Yacht Club premises on the Sint Maarten REGATTA NEWS REGATTA St. Maarten’s Lagoon Sailing Series programme saw a The last of St. Maarten’s January series of the Lagoon Sailing that were generally record nine boats enjoying stiff competition in light breezes Bus with 13 points, just pip- more from the south than usual. First place went to Frits Luc Knol with 15 points. Many ping Bernard Sillem with 14 points. Third place went to Regatta, the winner of sailors used this series as a warm-up for February’s Necol champion sailor. which effectively becomes the Sint Maarten/St. Martin The St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta is organized by the St. Maarten-St. The St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta is organized Events. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta Foundation and West Indies For more information visit www.ClassicRegatta.com. MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 that regularlydidwellattheBequiaEasterRegatta. experience racingaboardSurprises.NicolasracedasateenagerSurprise Velasquez, BastienandNicolasPoix,CatherineDesrosiers,haveallhadprevious The differenceintheextradayliescourses.usualformatatregatta is of competinginthemoreprestigiousCommodores’CupbyBudgetMarineaswell. Friday, SaturdayandSunday,howeveronlythespinnakerclasseshaveoption the regatta,whichhasalwayshadthreedaysofracing.Allboatswillstillrace Maarten HeinekenRegatta.ItwilltakeplaceonThursday,March1st.Thisisnewto The Commodores’CupisanextradayofracingthathasbeenaddedtotheSt. What istheCommodores’CupbyBudgetMarine? now bringstosixthefleetofspeedySurprisesbasedinMartinique. ted byhernewcrewinMartiniqueafterbeingfoundpoorconditionFrance, times surfingatover15knots. Clippers Ship Open 50 February 3rdand4th,werethewinning13hour,21minutecircuitofRégisGuillemot’s Highlights oftheNon-StopAroundMartiniqueRace,heldonweekend Fresh SurpriseatAroundMartiniqueRace For fullresultsvisitwww.grenadasailingfestival.com/results.htm. Tide tory inCruisingClass1,while2victorywenttoPeterMorris’s aboard Class wasdominatedbyCarriacou’sJerryStewartwhowoneachofeightraces Storm home. AlthoughownerLesCrouchisAmerican,theoverallwinnerofRacingClass, Petite Martinique.Butinthisyear’syachtracesthewinnerswerealsoprettycloseto of Woburn,SauteursandGouyave,sisterGrenadineislesCarriacou Workboat Regatta,thisisagiven,withentriesallcomingfromtheGrenadavillages It wastimeforareaboatstoshineatthe2007GrenadaSailingFestival.In Grenada SailFest2007 Island WaterWorldformakingthiscompetitionpossible. supporting theevent,andtothankalltheirsponsorsespeciallyCaribBeer The SIBTcommitteewouldliketothankalltheparticipatingboatsandanglersfor Top Grenadianboat: Yes Aye Boat pool(weightoffishbroughttothescale):First: Top releaseboat(6releases): Top releaseangler(3releases):GregoryMendez( ( First placeangler:DannySwanson( First placeboat: Yacht Clubtheresultswereasfollows: At theawardsceremonyandclosingdinnerheldonbeachatGrenada cheque forEC$5,000. of Barbados,probablythesmallestboatincompetition,whichearnedthema Ian Hutsonboatedarecord-breakingyellowfintunaof173poundson wahoo andfiveyellowfintunahadbeencaught. sailfish releasedplusthreelanded,fivewhitemarlinreleased,and11dorado,four At theendofcompetition23bluemarlinwerereleasedplusthreelanded,32 frompreviouspage —Continued Grey Ghost of Trinidad. , wasbuiltinTrinidadandco-skipperedbyTrinidadianPeterPeake.TheJ/24 HOIC (Grenada), third: Hallucine , St.Lucia),third:CharlesRoss( , at7.45metres,roundedtheislandinablistering15hours40minutes, . AnotherCarriacouskipper,JeromeMcQuilkin,took Houdini , andthedebutofanewcomer,Surpriseclass Zu (Trinidad), second: Talking Blues Clippers Ship’s Houdini Miss Abbie (Trinidad) (Trinidad). Legacy Houdini crew , Trinidad),second:BernardJohnson (Barbados), third: , Charge Up Nicolas Gillet,Emmanuel , Trinidad) Clippers Ship Miss Abbie , Trinidad) (Trinidad), second: , completelyrefit- Miss Abbie Wayward Clippers Ship Ocean Spirit Morning (Trinidad) to vic- . longer andslightlymorechallengingnewcourseonMonday. take placeonSundaytofacilitatetheparadeintoEnglishHarbour,followedbya Friday. TheButterflyRacewillbeheldonSaturday.famous“CannonRace”now be movedtoTuesdaymorning,withthefourracesOldRoadRacetakingplace on take placeonThursdaybeforetheSkippers’briefingandSingleHandedRacewill and opportunities.TheConcoursd’Elegancesponsoredby confirm theirarrivalandobtainimportantinformationregardingdockage,socialevents place onTuesdaythe17thandWednesday18th,whereallcaptainsmustregister, reshuffling thesocialeventstomakeitallfitintosametimeframe.Registrationtakes In celebrationofouranniversaryweareexpandingprogramtofourraces,and Valencia. OurspecialthanksgoouttoPaneraiforcontinuingasourPlatinumSponsor. competitors arewinteringintheMedpreparationforAmericasCup turnout, especiallyintheVintageClass,despitefactthatsomeofourregular 24th is20yearsoldthisyearandstillgoingstrong.Weareexpectingagood Kenny Coombsreports:TheAntiguaClassicYachtRegatta,tobeheldApril19th 20th AntiguaClassicYachtRegatta For moreinformationseeadonthispage. in racingcircleslately,andhere’sachancetofindoutwhy! take placeonApril21and22.Guadeloupehasbeenmakingquiteanameforitself The regattaprosinGuadeloupearegearingupfortheTriskellTrophyRegattato Guadeloupe’s TriskellTrophyRegatta For moreinformationseeadonpage13. Classic Class,includingthefamousCarriacouSloops,willbeanaddedattraction. and alltojointhemforthisyear’sRoundGrenadaEasterRegatta,April5though9.A The beautifulSpiceIslandhasakeenfleetoflocallybasedracerswhowelcomeone Round GrenadaRegatta2007 For moreinformationseeadonpage11. Bequia’s famoushospitalitytohelpcelebrate26yearsofBequiaEasterRegatta! competitive yachtracing,thrillingdouble-enderactionandanextrahelpingof isers arelookingforwardtoanotherfour-dayEasterweekendpackedwithhighly Frangipani HotelandTradewindsCruiseCluballbackonboardfor2007,theorgan- With loyalsponsorsHeineken,MountGay,Pepsi,MountainTopWater,Digicel,the crowds ofenthusiasticsupportersandspectatorsateveryavailablevantagepoint. Grenadine islandscontinuestobeoneofthehighlightsregatta,drawinghuge The three-raceseriesfor30ormorelocallybuiltdouble-endersfromBequiaandother with boatsanticipatedfromSt.Lucia,Grenada,Martinique,BarbadosandTrinidad. Bequia SailingClubisalsolookingforwardtoaveryactiveRacingClassthisyear having itsownspeciallydesignedcourses,continuestobeamajordraw;the well-organised socialactivities.TheJ24Class,firstintroducedin2005,andsince2006 Committee isconsistentlypraisedbothforitssmoothrunningoftheracesand Regatta’s popularityintheracingandcruisingcommunity,Race Last year’srecord-breakingturnoutof40yachtsemphaticallyconfirmedBequia tors comingfromallovertheworldtotakepartinEasterweekend’sactivities. into oneoftheregion’smostpopularsmallislandregattas,withvisitorsandcompeti- Regatta, April5ththrough9th.Inrecentyears,theBequiaEasterRegattahasgrown Preparations arewellunderwayinBequiafortheSailingClub’s26thEaster Bequia EasterRegatta—26Years! For moreinformationvisitwww.transcaraibes.com. Pointe àPitrebeforethestart! Monohulls joiningtherallycantakeadvantageofofferafreehaul-outin the DominicanRepublic.ThefinaldestinationishistoricSantiagodeCuba. run fromMarch16thtoApril8th,withstopsinSt.Martin,theBritishVirginislandsand The eightheditionoftheTranscaraibesyachtrallyfromGuadeloupetoCubawill 8th RallytoCuba For moreinformationvisitwww.heinekenregatta.com. the Commodores’Cup,courseswillbewindwardleewardinstead. courses alongthecoasttoadestination,orallwayaroundisland.During —Continued onnextpage —Continued Boat International will now MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 444-5313 (473) (formerly the boatyard) Prickly Bay- GRENADA Marine engineeringFuel tank cleaningBest varnish WorkSteel works 439-2049 407-4989 439-5265 439-5265 Laundry Internet broadband and wi-fi serviceEssentials Mini MarketYacht management service 435-8888 Commercial diving 435-8888 444-3466 439-4989 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ 439-5265 for any southbound cruise. Clean waters - lots of services. PBM is the most convenient marina location in the island. Official port of entry and natural arriving or departing point e-mail: [email protected] & [email protected] erth for vessel up to 200’ and 20’ draft (473) Tiki Bar, Pizzeria - Restaurant 7 d/week 439-5265 DieselGasolineLPG refillUsed oil collectionTaxi & ToursCar rentalCustom & Immigration 435-8888 444-4509 439-5265 439-5265 439-5265 444-1703 435-8888 B Water 439-5265 ON site we have to offer: Do not miss the daily happy hour from 5 pm to 6 pm and our TV lounge for any major sport event. Also daily weather and hurricane news posted. PBM is going through a major development phase and we apologise to our customers for any inconvenience caused but we invite everyone to come and see this unique and exciting project. ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ Bonaire Regatta’s 40th Anniversary International Sailing October 7 to 13 will mark the 40th anniversary of the Bonaire and this year especially Regatta. The preparations for this edition are in full swing, should be a memorable one. races around Bonaire The regatta is an annual sailing event which features many in various sailing as and Klein Bonaire. People from all over the world participate classes and in the well as surfing competitions. There are daily races in various folklore shows and evenings there is a variety of cultural activities, food stands, and in the streets of bands. The event offers a variety of activities, on the boulevard buy souvenirs. A festival fea- Kralendijk with lots of food, games and opportunities to week! turing international bands takes place every night for one For more information visit www.bonaireregatta.org. HIHO Adds Open Class Racing HIHO Adds Open Class Racing of the world’s premier windsurfing events, will The Highland Spring HIHO, one of this year’s event to include Open Class racing. expand the competitive portion will start in St. Maarten on June 30 and join the rest of Racers in the Open division 2007 Highland Spring HIHO the Highland Spring fleet in Virgin Gorda on July 2. The runs from June 29 to July 8. a one-design event with all The Highland Spring HIHO event has traditionally been class will remain in place racers competing on the BIC Techno 2 board. The Techno difference is while with the new Open class competing alongside. The significant racers are unrestricted and Techno racers all compete on identical boards, Open may compete on any board they prefer. purpose behind this expan- Event owner and manager, Andy Morrell, states that the “We’d like to see more sion is to broaden the event’s appeal. Morrell commented, it to provide a greater racers join the Highland Spring HIHO event so we’re adapting including a St. Maarten challenge for advanced sailors. Extending the event and the overall fun factor.” start offers more racing, more islands to enjoy which raises the chance to race for prize A further incentive is that the Open fleet will also have certain inter-island races,” money in some races. “We’ll have a purse of US$500 for confirmed Morrell. of advanced sailors to round Race director Rusty Henderson welcomes the addition and pro-level competi- out the fleet: “The Open class will appeal to the advanced cover. The Open class should tor, with the pleasure of more miles of great racing to of competition, compared to expect to cover over 250 miles of racing in eight days the 150 miles in the Techno class.” the British Virgin Islands The essence of the event is a week-long odyssey through new islands arriving at vir- aboard captained catamarans. Each day the fleet visits island-to-island competi- gin sandy beaches for adventure, meals and parties. Daily stay occupied tion challenges the fleet of competing windsurfers. Non-windsurfers kayaking and island with a range of activities including sailing, diving, snorkeling, catamaran home for discovery. Highland Spring HIHO participants call a captained The Moorings. the entire event. All yachts in the event are provided by For more information visit www.go-hiho.com. Morgan’s Run 2007 Morgan’s Run the June 8 start in Cartagena for are already preparing Lee Miles reports: and cays that participants to the islands which will take the of a marine expedition to Jamaica possessions that extend almost borders of Colombia: mark the northern a blue-water 6th edition of Morgan’s Run, Islands. This will be the and the Cayman Andres and Colombian islands of San sails from Cartagena to the cruise/rally that the coast of Nicaragua. located 150 miles east of Old Providence and the morning of the 9th, first landfall will be at Bajo Leaving on the 8th of June which marks the northernmost border of Nuevo, 373 miles to the north-northwest, the morning of the 11th. After two days of diving and Colombia. Arrival will be on in two groups for the next stop, Serrana, 85 miles to relaxation, the fleet will leave morning of the 14th. On Friday June 15, the fleet will the southwest, arriving on the nine miles to the north of Old Providence Island, arriving leave for Low Cay located that afternoon will sail on to the safe harbor of Old the morning of the 16th, and Sunday the 17th of June in Providence and Santa Providence/Santa Catalina. marking the close of Morgan’s Run 2007. Catalina we will have a celebration are free to proceed to San Andres and points From this point on the participants del Toro, Colon, and the San Blas islands as their time south and west such as Bocas welcome to join the Cartagena-based boats on this permits. Foreign cruisers are expedition. or For more information visit www.destinationcartagena.com/morgans_run.html, contact Lee Miles at [email protected]. —Continued page from previous sched- a better social with our participants hope to entertain sponsors we With our Along, the Sing and Gig Racing, Cream Teas events like the the popular ule, and than ever. will be better and Crew parties Owners from the Antigua obtain one form so please improved entry a new and We have at contacting us or by website www.antiguaclassics.com Visit our Yacht Club. enter early! fax (268) 460-1799. Please or by phone or [email protected] see ad on page 10. For more information MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 THAN AMARINA:IT’SHOME! IT’S MUCHMORE Visit ourwebsite:www.sbmarina.bizE-mail:[email protected] Over andoveragainourguestsrefertomarinaastheir“Home”! We monitorVHFchannels16&79A(alpha–Americansystem) • P.O. Box4540,AirportRoad,SintMaarten,N.A.,Caribbean Wireless internet,banksandlaundrywithinthecomplex Join usthiswinterandcontinuetoenjoythehospitality. • Pick-up anddrop-offfrommajorsupermarkets • Electricity: 220V/50amp;110V/300amps Tel: 599-5442309Fax:599-5443378 (single phaseandthree • Free satelliteTVateachslip • • WE OFFER: Fuel dockandbunkering 120 concreteslipberths • Telephone hook-up • • Shower facilities 24 hoursecurity • 16ft channel exclaim “Wow!”’ ‘My heartbeatalittlefastertoseethisboatundersail,anditwashardnot before thefirstrace.Thisinitselfwasinterestingas tion totheofficialpresentationforboatalongsideyachtclubdocknight Regatta wasabouttotakeplaceand being theJ-boats(alsogaff-riggedinthosedays). son. Intheirday,theywerethejuniorrichman’stoy—senior which wereprobablyfaster,butmuchlessbeautifulandquiteboringbycompari- house andherimpressiveartstudio(sheisthefamousKateDesignofSt.Kitts). with averydistantviewofthesea.ItisnexttoPhilipand(hiswife)Kate’slovely charming aplaceasyoucouldfindformadideas.Itissetwaybackinthecanefields be towedinthroughthebridge. eral hundred photos—nearly allofthem But speedisnotofthe essencehere—beautyis. light windsandmany ofthemheadwinds,shehaddroppedback abitbeforetheend. with virtuallynowake behind.Iwouldliketoreportthatshe got roundfirst,butwith working pieceofarthehadproduced. exactly whyPhilipwouldspendfouryears onthisprojectandwhataspectacular clouds andshoneonher,thecolors formallcameintofocus,andyoucouldsee camera ofBekenCowesintheearly 1900s.Whenthesunbrokethrough was hardnottoexclaim“Wow!”Itlike beingwhiskedbackandputbehindthe sweeping boomextendingwaybeyondthe stern,thateverythingcameintoplace. yachts turnedoutforthestart.Itwashere, with and acoupleofpilotberthsaft.Thecockpit islongandverynarrow. with amaster’scabinforward,longsaloon withverylongupperandlowerbunks first glanceaboatthatwillturnmanyheads.Shehasplentyofroomdownbelow not lookimpressivelylarge,andwhileshelooksbeautifulatthedock,is at the brightworkvarnished.Although60feetlong,sheissolowandnarrowdoes look. Sheispaintedacreamypaleyellowwithlight-tansails.Thedecksareteak and got onthehelicopter,too). Regatta logo,plusaseatonthepressboat(hadIbeenearlierprobablycouldhave (much bettersewnthanthestandardones),allinscribedwithClassicYacht possession ofanofficialidentitytag,abeautifultotebagandreallytop-quality hat comes inhandy.InnotimeIfilledaformattheyachtclubandfoundmyself in few pictures.Thisiswherebeingacard-carryingreporterfor Philip Walwynbuilt So itwasgoodnewswhenIheardthesecondannualSt.MartinClassicYacht The 12-metresofoldhadlittletodowiththelater12-metreAmerica’sCupboats I This boatisgoingto drawcrowdswherevershesails.Icame backwithsomesev- We watchedherflyout aheadofthefleet,easingthrough wateratgreatspeed She wasstunning—myheartbeatalittle fastertoseethisboatundersail,andit The nextdaythewindwaslightwithsome gustyperiods.Tengood-lookingclassic Good foroneevening’swork—nowhowabouttheboat?Iwentdownandtook a I wantedtoseetheboat,butmorethanthat,hersailingandget a St. Martin Classic St. Martin interest, havingseenthefirstbitsofwoodlaiddown,thenhalf-finishedboat. the 12-metreruleofcirca1906,fullgaffrigandall.ItisaboatinwhichIhavesome wrote anotepreviouslyin Kate Yacht Regatta Kate at PleasantBoatyardinSt.Kitts.Thisboatyardisas Compass Debuts at Kate about thelaunchingof was expected.Ievenwrangledaninvita- Kate by ChrisDoyle Kate . Kate under fullsail,thehugedeck- has noengineandhadto Kate Caribbean Compass — aboatbuiltto MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 Jette’s started off its life. Instead of the tradi- started off its life. Instead of Jette Ê ÊVi˜ÌÊ ˆÃ>˜`ÃÊ œvÊ hen cruising people and seamen talk about tankers, the usual vessel they tankers, the usual vessel and seamen talk about hen cruising people see on fields long, that you of those mega-ships, ten football refer to is one of vessels for the transporting now and again. Specialized the horizon every (a popular female Danish name) never had sails during her working life. Dale (a popular female Danish name) never had sails during lost cargo tanks and gained a sailing rig to go from fuel-delivery ship to blue- lost cargo tanks and gained a sailing rig to go from fuel-delivery TO TREASURE TO FROM TANKER FROM Yet, they can come as small as 43 feet long and be made of wood. Yet, they can come as small Danish That was how the 40-year-old “In the beginning, an oil company owned it. Apparently, it was just the right size to owned it. Apparently, it was just the right size “In the beginning, an oil company Danish high standards of two-inch oak planking on It had been built to traditional with the still almost-like- The five-year restoration work didn’t have to do much less maintenance than wood Dale opted for an aluminum cabin top. It would entail Jette Just outside Barbados, the Because of good planning, no big problems so far. seven and a half knots, The boat actually sails. With “a good wind”, it can make Leaving Barbados to have “a Swiss national Konrad Metzger came along as crew. W Jette water yacht bulk liquid cargo, may be how a dictionary would describe them. bulk liquid cargo, may be how tional fish holds aft of the mainmast, it had one big tank holding 30,000 litres of mainmast, it had one big tank holding 30,000 litres tional fish holds aft of the fleet in Scandinavian waters until sold to a fish farm diesel. It serviced the fishing out to carry water for live fish. The present owner, New where the tank was cleaned it in 2000 to carry him back home from Europe Zealander Dale Calvert, bought as a fisherman. where he had been working the had basic stores for the lads out on the banks. After service the fishing fleet. It also laid up for nine years in southern Denmark where I found stint with the fish farm, it was and I think I found a treasure,” said Dale as he relaxed it. It was exactly what I wanted a 28-day run from the Cape Verde Islands in January. in Barbados’s Carlisle Bay after spikes. He was looking for such a boat. “I was a fish- oak frames fastened with iron built wooden dories to sell and from my talking with erman in the North Sea and reputation even in England. I people, the Danish wooden boats have a really good in New Zealand,” said Dale. also liked the shape because I had a similar style boat that went overboard was the new hull. Main problem was interior. The first thing Norwegian pine. tank. The main cabin is beautifully paneled in traditional a 100-horsepower Ford. original engine was a Bedford and this was replaced by was also sheathed in alu- and cost the same. The boat’s hull below the waterline as opposed to copper sheath- minum, apparently as established custom in Denmark ing in some other countries. ketch rig. did some research and rigged her with a traditional gaff it was fixed, partly with the hydraulic system on the steering however gave way and the tool locker. use of a hand-operated portable drill press carried in Dale lets you know. Panama Canal, they hope to look at some of the other islands” before transiting the be in New Zealand in mid-2007. >Àˆ˜>Ã]ÊޜÕÀÊv>ۜÕÀˆÌiÊ«>Við

PHOTOS (2): NORMAN FARIA by Norman Faria by Norman ,iÃÌ>ÕÀ>˜ÌÃÊ vœÀÊ >Ê Ì>ÃÌiÊ œvÊ ÜœÀ`ÞÊ}>ÃÌÀœ˜œ“Þ°°°Ê VՈȘiÊ >˜`Ê 7œ˜`iÀvÕÊ ÀiœiÊ >˜`Ê Õ˜ˆµÕiʘ>ÌÕÀ>Ê Li>ṎiÃÊ Õ>`iœÕ«i>˜Ê ÌœÊ `ˆÃVœÛiÀ°°°Ê Ê >}˜ˆw >˜Ê>ÀV ˆ«i>}œÊiÃÃÊÌ >˜Ê>Ê`>ÞÊVÀՈÃiÊ>Ü>Þ°°°Ê/ iÊ >Àˆ˜>Ê >Ç ՇœÀÌÊ œvviÀÃÊ “ÕV ʓ>ˆ˜Ìi˜>˜ViÊÃiÀۈViÃÊޜÕÀÊLœ>Ìʘii`ðÊÊÌʜvviÀÃÊ>LœÛiÊ “œÀiÊ Ì >˜Ê Ì iÊ>Ê>Ê«i>ÃÕÀ>LiÊ>˜`ÊviÃ̈ÛiʏˆviÃÌޏi°Ê9œÕÊ܈ÊLiÊ ˜iViÃÃ>ÀÞÊ œÛiÀÜ i“i`ÊLÞÊÌ iÊÜ>À“Ì ÊÌ >ÌÊV >À>VÌiÀˆâiÃÊ Ì iÊÀi˜V Ê7iÃÌʘ`ˆið ÜÜÜ°V>ÀˆLLi>˜‡“>Àˆ˜>ðVœ“ÉL>Ã`ÕvœÀÌ which he found on an Internet site. It had been owned by which he found on an Internet DIFFERENT BOATS… … FOR DIFFERENT FOLKS DIFFERENT … FOR BOATS… DIFFERENT was Canadian-built. There is a vibrant owners’ association with was Canadian-built. There is a vibrant owners’ association Sublime Varuna

ive years ago, when 22-year-old Norwegian Joachim Lindstol decided he Joachim Lindstol decided when 22-year-old Norwegian ive years ago, wanted a pocket cruiser for a Caribbean trip and possibly beyond, he didn’t trip and possibly beyond, cruiser for a Caribbean wanted a pocket choices. headaches with fiddling with get too many

Joachim tells you that a Norwegian couple, Henrik Nor-Hansen and Nina Kristen Joachim tells you that a Norwegian couple, Henrik Nor-Hansen and then the rest of the Joachim and friends were due to head for Bequia A deckhand on coastal freighters and ferries, Joachim found that the fiberglass A deckhand on coastal freighters and ferries, Joachim Joachim: “It helped that we How is it with the threesome living in such confines? Aebi, who circumnavigated They were familiar with American teenager Tania 1970 in the UK, mainly at Aside from at the several factories in the 1960s and First, he wanted a tested design, one which had proved itself in blue water. He First, he wanted a tested design, a a David Sadler-designed Contessa 26, similar to He got what he wanted with The boat was

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N ¥'ETTY)MAGES Tested Design, Easy on Easy Design, Tested The three Norwegian friends pool their resources and ‘we make sure we don’t get The three Norwegian friends pool their resources and ‘we into each other’s way too often’ Hansen, are presently circumnavigating in a 1976-built Contessa. Hansen, are presently circumnavigating in a 1976-built what next to do. Grenadines after leaving Barbados. They will then decide over 4,000 craft world wide. of 7.7 metres (25.6 feet) lived up to all his expectations on summer cruises to sloop of 7.7 metres (25.6 feet) lived up to all his expectations a carpenter, set off Denmark. In July 2006, he and school friend Simon Storegjerde, made the usual stops on the for the much thought about Atlantic crossing. They the burned out Yahama way, including Ramsgate in England where they replaced the Cape Verde Islands after diesel with a Yanmar. They reached Barbados from another old friend, Eirik Vibe, joined them. get into each other’s way too knew each other for a while and we make sure we don’t on a small budget so pooling often. In a way, as young people, we are also traveling did have to take out the WC our resources and saving money is a satisfaction. We find the Contessa is an excel- to get more space for our stuff, but other than that we lent little boat for what we want.” 1980s in a Contessa. She alone, except for a short passage with a friend, in the became the youngest woman to circumnavigate single-handed. by J.J. Taylor up until Jeremy Rogers, the Contessas were also built in Canada 1990. Aebi’s another Norwegian who had to sell it because of back problems making it difficult another Norwegian who had to get into the cabin. wanted a smallish craft, about seven metres LOA, to keep maintenance and marina wanted a smallish craft, about the British-made boat of 1960s vintage, in keeping with charges down. He wanted a country’s boatbuilders. still fine reputation of that with growing up in the Scandinavia. Folkboat design he was familiar MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 buried shank-deepinsand,wearequitecomfortablehere. not enoughtocreateanunpleasantchop.Withouranchor anchor. Thereisenoughwindtorunthegeneratorbut hammer theAtlanticsideofisland,werockgentlyat Bay, sowedonotfeelisolated.While12-footnortheastswells in WhiteHouseBayandsomefurthernorthSouthFriars boat anchoredhere.Therearetwoorthreeothersamilenorth, It wasagoodday. me forafewyardsthenvanishedasquicklyitappeared. from wingtiptotip,thisgracefulcreatureswamwith way backtotheboat,Isawmyfirsteagleray.Threefeet with starfish,somethesizeofdinnerplates.Then,on sandy bottombetweentheboatandrockswaslittered forting toseethecoralinnewgrowthmode.Thestretchof some conchandNancysawaneel.Itwasespeciallycom- an abundantvarietyoffish.Therewere,also,seaslugs, toward shore,amongrocksandnewcoralgrowth,wefound afternoon wesnorkeledofftheboat.Threehundredyards way tothenorthendofbay,alongstonybeach.This bow, atroopofgreenvelvetmonkeysplayfullymakestheir ing apanoramaofruggedhillsandgreenfields.Offthe shore ofSt.Kittsstrikesanarcintothenorthwest,show- but itwasagooddayanyway.Offtheportsidewestern We’re GladWe We areanchoredinBallastBay,St.Kitts.theonly T on thehorizon.Therewillbenogreenflashtonight, ing astern,watchingacrimsonsundropintocloud oday wasagoodday.I’msittinginthecockpit,look- Stopped Here D D e e St. Kitts&Nevis: s s t t by JohnRowland i i n n a a t t i i o o n n s s on herdeparturefromSt.Kitts Among BallastBay’slow-keyentertainments:watching are veryhappywedid. to getprovisions”…andsoon.Wecameanyway,becauseitwasonourlist.Andwe cruiser friendly”;“It’stoohardtocheckinandout“;“Therearen’tanygoodplaces potential destinationsformanyofourcruisingfriends.Wehearthemsay,“It’snot “You’ll knowyou’vemadeitwhen…”list.St.Kitts&Nevisisnothighonthelistof the boat,now15monthsago,BallastBaywentonlistofmilestoneswecall haps sparkingthebeginningofdreamwearenowliving.Whenmovedonto There weretwoboatsanchoredherethatday.Thetranquilscenestuckwithus,per- vacation onSt.Kitts.OnedaywestoppedtheroadthatoverlooksBallastBay. Back inthedaysbeforeweeverconsideredacruisinglife,spentone-week Royal Clipper set sail —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 . She was built in St. Kitts and launched earlier this earlier launched and St. Kitts built in was . She ] Kate ‘The western shore of St. Kitts ‘The western strikes an arc into the northwest, showing a panorama of rugged hills and green fields’ From Charlestown, we went to Basseterre, the capital, on the island of St. Kitts. island of St. capital, on the the we went to Basseterre, From Charlestown, Sunday. In this pristine setting, we’ve enjoyed the We came to Ballast Bay on north, along the shore, to do a bit of exploring. The Yesterday we took the dinghy and cruising guides tells us Tomorrow it will be time to move. Study of the charts See related story on page 14. story on See related year. This gaff-rigged beauty turned every head in the anchorage when she came in. when she in the anchorage every head beauty turned gaff-rigged year. This [ (design circa 1909) named named 1909) circa (design quite comfortable, was really The anchorage the marina. just outside We anchored the mari- dock at There is a dinghy by the ferries. generated swells with occasional area. Basseterre the duty-free shopping easy access to downtown and na, providing ample access to good restaurants and with wonderful shops, some is a great town Saturday, the is colorful and well kept. On Circus, the center of town, groceries. The There was to stock up on fresh produce. provides a great opportunity open market Spanish music night there was very loud on Friday and Saturday one negative: never did pin- hours of the morning. We the anchorage into the wee blasting across office conve- out, we’ll use the Customs When we return to check point the source. And we’ll be sure it isn’t a Friday or Saturday. niently placed next to the marina. west shore of St. Kitts by day, glorious sunsets (with panoramic view of the entire view of the stars at night. The water is the clearest one green flash) and the clear the islands. we’ve seen since coming to rocky, unfit to land a dinghy safely. There is a reef that beach in Ballast Bay is very west from a rocky outcropping on the beach, defining extends one hundred yards The middle of the reef is deep enough to take a dinghy the north end of Ballast Bay. on the bow looking out for the large rocks strewn across, but only with someone its own which holds the his- about the reef. The rocky shore has a stark beauty all rocky through White House tory of the formation of the island. The beach remains Friars Bay, the beach turns Bay and into South Friars Bay. About a third into South at the Shipwreck, a clas- to coarse gray sand. We beached the dinghy and stopped of mostly locals, a couple of sic, shack-style beach bar. The patrons were a mix was good and the conversa- tourists and a few cruisers. The beer was cold, the food people when we get tion friendly and interesting. It seems we meet more interesting made for a most pleasant off the beaten track. The scenery and the folks we met afternoon. I guess yesterday was a good day, too. the island, just around the there are several good anchorages on the south tip of we find there is consistent point which forms the south side of Ballast Bay. If what the next few days should be with what we’ve found in the rest of this lovely country, is a mistake to leave St. Kitts good days as well. In case anyone asks us, we think it & Nevis off your list of cruising destinations.

CHRIS DOYLE We entered the country at We entered the Nevis, and quaint Charlestown, thoroughly enjoyed the place North of the city, there is a long stretch of sandy beach with many places where it North of the city, there is a long stretch of sandy beach We came into the country at Charlestown, Nevis, from Antigua, ten days ago. ten days from Antigua, Nevis, at Charlestown, into the country We came is easy to beach a dinghy. One spot many people choose is near Sunshine’s beach is easy to beach a dinghy. One spot many people choose a festive but relaxed atmos- bar. Sunshine’s has good food, reasonable prices and We met some interesting phere which attracts a mix of cruisers, locals and tourists. “First Rule Twelve” boat folks, including the owner and crew of a newly launched and the officers very pleasant and helpful. There are several grocery stores, from and the officers very pleasant and helpful. There are Buses and taxis put small storefront operations to large, well-stocked supermarkets. enough to me. There must be everything with easy reach. It seemed cruiser friendly it is unusual, in our expe- a substantial financial industry in Charlestown, because banks than bars. No problem rience, to see a town this size with significantly more The anchorage at finding an ATM here. We enjoyed the place thoroughly. the most significant fea- Charlestown is open, a bit rolly, but very tolerable. Perhaps ture of Nevis was the friendly attitude of the people. Charlestown is a quaint town of old stone buildings and brightly painted wood. brightly painted and old stone buildings town of is a quaint Charlestown end of the at the shore a trash bin town dock, dock at the a good dinghy There is dock and at the is right itself. Customs to the town easy access dock and simple procedures were away. The three blocks police station, is at the Immigration —Continued page from previous MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 disembark tolettheguestsfromrearseatsleave. door ontheside,guestssittingnearhaveto against theceiling.Becausebushasonlyasliding Whoever wantstostopthebusknockshisfingers cigarettes. Duringthetrip,nobodyiseatingordrinking. fabric covers—noworn-outspotsorburnholesfrom usually coveredwithathickplasticfoiltoprotectthe are scrupulouslycleaninsideandout.Theseats written alargenumberandthedestination.Thebuses portation, andonthefrontwindow’supperrightsideis painted red,tobeeasyrecognisableaspublictrans- ure inthereggaeandcalypso.Mostofbusesare music isplayedatadecentlevel,soyoucantakepleas- of 15passengers,isnowanenjoyableexperience.The mation hascomeoverGrenadaduringthelast18years! stoves andengineswerestrewnalongthebeach. any ofthearticles.Discardedwashingmachines, the counter,andseemedannoyedwhenweaskedfor sprawled infrontofhead-highspeakersstackedon noise volumeblared.Bored-lookingyoungshopclerks had notshattered.Outofill-kemptshopsthesame bus wassolouditawonderthatallthewindows After thattripweweredeaffordays;themusicon mountains tothetownofGrenvilleoneastcoast. great. Wehadmemoriesofahorrificbusrideoverthe last visitedin1989.Ourfirstimpressionhadnotbeen opportunity tolookaroundGrenada,whichwehad our starterwoulddothejobformoment. he gottheruggedarmaturemoreorlessfixedup,sothat 24 volts,withaburnedcommutator.Withgreatgoodwill one ofhisdustyboxeshehadthesametypestarter, weren’t availableandrewindingwasn’tpossible.Butin switch ofourstartermustbebroken,butspareparts engine. Themechanicconcludedthatthesolenoid it didnotjumpintotheflywheeltoactuallystart repaired. Whenweinstalledit,thestartermotorran,but 45 minutes.Aftermultiplevisits,wegotourstarterback workshop inthenorthofisland,reachablebybus between hisflowerpots.Anothermechanichadafine mechanic wasnotabletofixourstarterintheopenair Grenada, wewouldhavebeenreallystuck.Thefirst knowledge aboutwheretofindwhatandwhomon drove us—toseveralmechanics.Withouthisimmense Island WaterWorldinSt.George’s,whosent—andeven W Traveling inthesmallToyotabuses,withamaximum Today everythingisdifferent.Whatapositivetransfor- While waitingtogetthestarterfixed,wehad quit. Abig“thankyou”goestoJonathanfrom day afterourarrivalboat’sstartermotor e anchoredoffSt.George’sinGrenada.One —Continued onnextpage —Continued A lotoftheformersmallwoodenhouseshavebeenreplacedbyrealvillasbuiltoutconcrete by AngelikaGruener CONGRATULATIONS TO GRENADA MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 S/V Angelos. Buses can be a great way to get around an island, and the traveling public in Grenada probably likes these rules ‘just fine’! Nearly every day one or two cruise liners come or two cruise every day one Nearly come, sometimes with charter Yachtspeople in September 2004 Of course, Hurricane Ivan island population, All is not so easy for the Grenada is pros- As we saw on our recent visit, Angelika Gruener is cruising the Caribbean a two-week holiday to attend World Church Day. Church World to attend holiday a two-week about her trip, enthusiastic extremely She was for it! pay the loan she still has to even if some- discharge hundreds, George’s to to St. the island. The tourists onto of times thousands, service well; taxi drivers offer their business goes sou- tour, women sell spices and for an island boats to passengers on small venirs, boys take for a swim. the next beach with family or friends, sometimes guests, visiting employ- like ours, and provide broken equipment statistic in another sector. A ment for Grenadians the that Grenada estimated from 2000 shows economy of yachting to their overall contribution dollars. The study fur- at more than 13 million US and charter tourist ther notes, “Charter incomes and contribute a expenditures are not included bareboat per year.” minimum of US$50,000 per away or damaged and Emily in June 2005 blew and these have been many buildings and cars, now have new red replaced. Most of the houses have been renovated or blue roofs; the houses put forward by and repainted. But the contention upswing is simply some, that Grenada’s general after the hurricanes due to donations received that this transfor- cannot be true. It is obvious years. mation developed over many was terribly dam- though. The farm industry the nutmeg trees aged. It will take years till Grenada can once bear fruit again, so that top exporters. again be one of the world’s pering quite well. The frequent arrival of the cruise liners and the booming yacht industry are proof of it, and the inhabitants have worked hard to reach that level of development we can find now. Our big congratulations to all Grenadians. aboard At the bus terminal is a big sign listing fines for a big sign listing terminal is At the bus litter or garbage lying around, We saw no spotlessly clean and The people wear tidy, new, In shops you will be served immediately by atten- —Continued page from previous bus ride can such a trips On long-distance it’s all done exercise, but in physical abound good naturedly. (in US$): some examples offences. Just diverse noise or smoke $40; importuning Nuisance by or public filth $10; harassment passengers $35; or $40; overloading of vehicle public indecency unauthorised posters or advertise- speeding $50; failing to or urinating $10; ments $200; loitering $60. of authority wardens comply with directions runs a tight ship! Grenada now I could bins are rare. As far as although rubbish The to be no unemployment. tell, there seems sometimes Rastas with their long dreadlocks, are seen working at covered under a huge hat, to stevedores to ven- jobs ranging from farmers island we noticed that dors. On a trip around the wooden houses have a lot of the former small built out of concrete been replaced by real villas in discreet pastel with big verandas, all painted gardens. colours, with nicely laid out white shirts, bright ironed clothes, sparkling Grenada must have white socks and gym shoes. the world; my laun- the best washing powder in and teens step dry never gets so white! Women and fashionable out in high-heeled shoes The gait is upright. clothes, often tailor-made. to be as slim as The young women endeavour dress modestly, possible. The most stylish ladies calf. It seems that the from the neck down to the Anglican, island’s churches, whether or any of the Presbyterian, Catholic, Methodist multiple sects, have a great influence. Modern bikinis, however, adorn the young women when they go for a swim. Nobody is hanging around any more; nobody sprawls anywhere in public. There are even signs: “no loitering”. tive, competent, and very friendly staff. There has been a big investment in general education, and the young people took the opportunity to learn a lot. They noticed as well that tourism provides huge possibilities, from which every single person on the island can earn his income, but only if the tourist is given the proper attention. Grenadians enjoy being tourists, too. We met a local woman who was in our homeland, Germany, last year on MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 of humanerror,asisillustratedbythestoriesbelow. lem thatanytimeachartisre-drawntherechance correct andeasiertoreproduce.Butthereistheprob- ing chartselectronically,asthatmadethemeasierto Atmospheric Administration(NOAA)startedre-draw- United StatesNationalOceanographicand dying out.BoththeBritishAdmiralty(BA)and charts. Inthe1980sold-timecartographerwas puters werecausingproblemsinthereproductionof Iolaire, thing asthe boysinImray’selectronic draftingroom. dently theboysontheir computersweredoingthesame and theAdmiraltywere wrong.Idiscoveredthatevi- areas whereIknowthe Imray-Iolairechartsarecorrect duction aselectronic charts,andranthroughsome purchased therights toImray-Iolairechartsforrepro- went tothefourelectronicchartcompanies thathave Iolaire charts! years eliminatingfrommyguidesand theImray- Admiralty charts—errorsthatIhavespent thelast50 into theImray-Iolairechartsanyerrors inthe used theAdmiraltyinformation.Thus they inserted Admiralty chartsandtheImray-Iolaire charts,they and wherevertherewereanydifferences betweenthe charts theycrosscheckedwiththeAdmiralty charts, turns outthatwhenre-drawingthe Imray-Iolaire using theAdmiraltychartsasareferenceBible.It easier touse. saving inexpenseandalsomakingtheImraycharts harbour chartsarenotneeded,givingaconsiderable charts haveharborinsetsonthemsothatseparate in afashionmoreusefultoyachtsmen.Largearea (Imray paysroyalties),buttheyhavebeendividedup third degree. the boysinelectronicdraftingroomweregiven shoal watersoundings.Thiswasmostpuzzlinguntil took methreedaysasIdiscoverederrorafterin check them.Hefeltitwouldtakeonlyhalfaday.It Willie askedmetocomeImray’shomeoffice the existingwaterproofchart”. said “Noworry—theywillbeexactreproductionsof being introducedwhenchartswerereproduced.Willie Imray topresenttheirchartselectronicallyonadisc. old presswasbeingwounddown),plusitwouldallow electronically wouldsimplifytheprintingprocess(the feet, whichwasconfusingattimes).Re-drawingthem metric (somewereinmetresandsomefathoms draw allthechartselectronically,makingthem Wilson, theheadofImray,decideditwastimetore- there isnotanotherfastpentotakeover,soWillie years, iscomingupforretirement.Unfortunately that thechartsshouldbesame.Buttheywerenot. there hadnotbeenanynewsurveyworkdone,and Antigua soIcalledtheAdmiralty.Theyreportedthat Admiralty hadre-surveyedthenortheastcoastof not agreewiththeoldone.Icouldbelieve Admiralty hadproducedanewchartandthatitdid of Antigua.Iaskedwhy.Hereportedthatthe our Imray-IolairechartA271forthenortheastcorner described as“ThefastestpenintheWest”)re-drawing late TomWilsonofImray,Laurie,Norieand charts shouldbethesame.Buttheywerenot. no re-surveyingoftheislandTobagoandthat with theAdmiraltytheytoldmethattherehadbeen the oldandnewBAchart.However,whenIchecked had beenre-surveyed,thusthedifferencesbetween one inanumberofplaces.Ipresumedthatthearea noted thattheoldchartdidnotagreewithmodern day inadiveshopIsawanoldBritishchart,and Before electronicchartscameonthemarket,com- The HumanErrorFactorinComputerDrawnCharts In theearly’80swhenwewereexploringTobagoon Not onlythat,butatthe2007LondonBoat show,I So, theelectronicdraftsmenwereaccustomedto Imray UKchartsarere-drawnAdmiralty When thefirstbatchofabout12chartswasready, I pointedouttoWillietheabovetwostoriesoferrors Alan Wilkinson,whohasbeenwithImrayfor48 I spottedtwocases;howmanyarethereworldwide? A fewyearslaterIfoundAlanWilkinson(whomthe Computer Drawnand I hadonboardthelatestBritishcharts.One Electronic Charts Thoughts on ed inthemainchart.) problem byproviding detailviaharbourplansinsert- can orwillappear.(The Imray-Iolairechartsavoidthis graphic imageissimply magnifiedandnomoredetail since whenzooming inforgreaterdetail,thephoto- panning isalsogenerallylimitedwitha rasterchart, depending ontheuser’srequirements. Zooming and vantage (thechartcannotbeeasily manipulated) familiar andunderstandabletotheuser) oradisad- be anadvantage(theelectronicchartis immediately white borderofthechartispresent,etcetera. Thiscan the symbolsaresame,textis same,the computer screenexactlyasitisonthe paper, i.e.all the paperchart,allinformationis shown onthe tion software. on acomputerscreenwiththeappropriatenaviga- The resultingrasterchartscanthenbereproduced latitude andlongitudepositionscanbecalculated. Various referenceinformationisthenaddedsothat are createdbysimplyscanningthepaperchart. expensive waytocreateelectronicchartsandthey inch (ormore).Thisisthefastest,easiestandleast els), normallyatresolutionsof100bydotsper is builtupofalargegridtinycoloureddots(pix- are storedinacomputer-readableform.Theimage graphs oftheoriginalofficialpapercharts,which er —ontheadvantagesanddisadvantagesofeach. time seaman,cruisingguidewriterandchartcompil- have addedmycomments—fromanold- the advantagesanddisadvantagesofbothsystems.I Imray, todescribethedifferencesmeandgive Deeves, theDigitalChartProductionManagerfor and vector. electronics arefried,andtheregoallyourcharts. to asa“deadship”.Butifyouarehitbelightning,ALL with backup—theywouldneverhavewhatisreferred unnecessary, astheyhaveagoodelectricalsystem back-up. Someyachtsmenmaysaythatthisis 16 by12inches;thelargerbetter. shown onadecent-sizedscreen—say,approximately tronic chartsfeelthattheyareuselessunless chart, theywouldhavebeenhardaground. yards. Attimes,iftheyhadbelievedtheirelectronic electronic chartswereoccasionallyoutby300or400 competent captainswhoreportedthattheirCaribbean However, Ihaverepeatedlyheardstoriesfromvery in NewEnglandwaterswereabsolutelydead-on. son Markfeltthattheelectronicchartshewasusing eyeball navigation. a crewstudyingtheelectronicchartsandnotusing book couldbewrittenaboutthegroundingscausedby but notthebe-allandend-all:theyareonlyanaid.A much appreciated. rections [email protected] Admiralty Bayarenotcorrect.Thisandanyothercor- drawing. Ifeelthesoundingsonnorthsideof (Bequia toCarriacou)arecomingupforcompletere- Our chartsB30(St.VincentandBequia)B31 then presumethatourchartsareabsolutelycorrect? the Imray-Iolairecharts,Ihavereceivednone.Canwe Compass Admiralty LeisureChartsoftheCaribbean. plus alistoferrorsthatIhavefoundintheBritish — www.street-iolaire.com our electronicchartagents. all theerrorschartbychart,thensendinglistto going throughalltheBritishAdmiraltycharts,listing Because rasterchartsarebasicallyaphotograph of RASTER CHARTSarebasicallyelectronicphoto- Not beinguponelectroniccharts,IaskedSimon There aretwotypesofelectroniccharts:raster They allfeltthatthereshouldbepaperchartsfor Furthermore, experiencedskipperswhohaveelec- The accuracyofelectronicchartingvarieswidely.My Electronic chartsareawonderfulaidtonavigation, Electronic Charts:RasterorVector? Despite puttingnoticesintheOctober2006issueof By theendofMarchIwillbepostingonmywebsite As aresult,Ihavehadtospendinnumerabledays and elsewhererequestinganycorrectionsto by DonStreet — —Continued onnextpage —Continued the abovelistoferrors MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 LTD INE DISTRIBUTOR R Parts - Repairs - Service P.O. Box 17, Kingstown FAX: (473) 444 2899 Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP opposite Howard’s Marine PAIE E-mail: [email protected] PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] Located CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent AMAHA MA TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL Y TEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364 KMRN ENGINES (DUTY FREE PRICES) SPARES SERVICE MARINE EQUIPMENT McIntyre Bros. Ltd. TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA The advantages of vector charts are as follows: • Smaller memory requirements and therefore the • The displaying of vector charts is very flexible, • Chart plotter manufacturers can build low-cost, • The major hydrographic offices of the world, includ- That may be so, but the majority of experienced skip- Ultimately, electronic charts are a great aid to gen- that they were re-drawing. They were in the process of eliminating many of what I knew were very useful ranges/transits. I asked why. They pointed out that the ranges/transits were on windmill towers; the charts were done in the middle of the 19th century, and the windmill towers could not possibly still be there. Once I explained to them the size and construction of the wind- mill towers and pointed out that they would be there for another hundred years, they decided to leave the ranges/transits on the new chart. Had that been a vec- tored chart, they could have been eliminated and use- ful information deleted from the chart. charts generally display faster and can be distributed in memory cartridges and on floppy disk rather than CD-ROMs. since different layers of information can be shown at different times. As you zoom in, increasing levels of detail can be available without any sacrifice in image resolution. Chart presentation can be changed to remove layers of information that may not be required for the task that is currently being executed. water-resistant, dedicated chart plotter units. ing the largest mapmaker in the world, the US Defense Mapping Agency (DMA), have already announced that their electronic charts will be in vector format. The advantages and benefits of using vector charts are almost limitless and we can expect to see mapmakers of all types moving to the vector electronic chart in the years ahead. The world’s most advanced hydrographic institutes will use seamless vector chart technology when they build electronic charts in the future and the International Hydrographic Office standards are for seamless vector cartography. pers I know prefer to use raster electronic and Imray- Iolaire waterproof paper charts. They say that they pre- fer the raster chart as it has all the information that appears on the paper chart, presented in the same fashion. Therefore, they can operate with the raster chart, but have on standby to take out on deck for eye- ball navigating the equivalent paper chart, and the two are (or should be) the same. Notable landmarks and other features on shore that may have been eliminated on the vector chart are there to be seen. eral planning, but for entering and leaving harbours and for coastwise navigation, paper charts, a hand- bearing compass and fathometer, a good look-out and experience in eyeball navigation are still the best means of minimizing the chance of grounding. A typical hyperbaric chamber. Thanks to a diver’s donation, there will soon be one in St. Lucia FOR ST. LUCIA ST. FOR by Kai Wulf

The advantages of raster charts are as follows: • Faithfulness of reproduction. The electronic chart DMS comment: A faithful reproduction of the chart, but • They are generally cheaper than the vector charts. • The coverage is generally much wider than the The disadvantages are as follows: • No information can be selectively removed or dis- • Generally, raster charts are not easy to update. DMS comment: How do you update charts? Not too • Raster charts are generally slower to display on • Raster chart systems are generally more memo- VECTOR CHARTS are created by scanning the paper DMS comment: Basically vectors are re-drawn — the For instance, many years ago I was at the British For more than a decade attempts to estab- For more than up and a com- A trust fund has been set facility, The traditional use of a hyperbaric their destination based on the availability of a hyper- When planning a dive vacation, many individuals chose Association. Kai Wulf is the Manager of the Soufriere Marine Management looks just like the familiar paper chart. on most raster charts the chart’s source is not given. Is it Imray-Iolaire, Nautical Publications, British Admiralty? An exception to this is C Map, as there I was able to ascer- tain that the references were Imray-Iolaire, BA, NOAA and the (excellent) Colombian Hydrographic Office. The boys in the drafting room inserted mistakes from BA and NOAA charts. We now know of the errors in C Map, and with the aid of my list of errors, C Map will be corrected. However, I am not sure how long that will take. coverage of vector charts. played at different zoom levels. easily. It is worthwhile having update procedures explained and demonstrated to you before purchasing. the screen. ry intensive and can take many megabytes to store the image of a single nautical chart. They are gen- erally distributed on CD-ROM and therefore raster chart systems normally require a CD-ROM drive, but not always. C Map is a small chip that looks like a sim card for a mobile phone that you plug in to a normal laptop. charts to create raster files (as above) and then vec- torizing the data. Vectorization converts the lines on the paper charts into coordinates that are then stored. These coordinates are then used by the navigation systems to re-create the lines of the chart on the screen. These lines that are vectorized from the chart are stored in groups (layers) according to the type of line being vectorized. For example, all the coastline is stored in one layer, the drying line would be stored in another layer, etcetera. Once stored, the layers of coordinates can be compressed so that the resultant vector chart is stored very efficiently. A vector chart can take less than a tenth of the space of a raster chart to store the same amount of information. electronic draughtsman includes only the information that he feels is essential. There is a great chance of error. Admiralty’s head office. They gave me a tour of the drafting room where I was shown a chart of Antigua —Continued from previous page

lish a hyperbaric facility in Saint Lucia have facility in Saint Lucia lish a hyperbaric soon this is going to change been futile, but $535,000 by Ms. through a donation of over national and Barbara Perfect, an American purchased a keen scuba diver who recently Resort, and villa at the Jalousie Plantation her sister. Lucia’s Dive mittee comprising Saint Marine Association, the Soufriere and individuals Management Association sectors, has from the medical and private the necessary been formed to purchase the facility. The equipment and to set up at the Tapion chamber will be located four physi- Hospital, where there are already medicine. cians trained in hyperbaric as it is commonly or decompression chamber of dive accidents, known, is the treatment and body tis- when divers exceed the limits with nitrogen, sues become oversaturated the blood stream which forms bubbles in upon direct return to the surface. This condi- tion, decompression sickness or “the bends”, can cause paralysis and even death if not treated immediately. be sent to Barbados or Martinique, putting Saint Lucia at baric facility. In the past, dive accident victims had to sub-sector. Additionally, conch divers often lack for- a disadvantage in the development of this lucrative tourism suffer severe health consequences due to the bends because mal dive training, and quite a number of these fishers more than 12 approved medical indications which can be overseas treatment can not be afforded. There are now treated in a hyperbaric chamber. HYPERBARIC CHAMBER CHAMBER HYPERBARIC MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 S S this issueappearin monthly copyofthe Downloadable waypoints Up-do-date, livelyandrelevanttext Aerial andsceniccolorphotography Full Colorsketchcharts Check outthefeaturesthatmakethem t t CHRIS DOYLE'SGUIDES the Caribbean'sbestsellers! 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All you need iscontactustofastpickup Documentsetc. Freight, Overnight Packages, Express packagesanddocuments, same day, collect anddeliver doortolocalthe offer thenew system delivery Martin, St. Maarten/ the DutchandFrench sideofSt. fast andefficientCOURIERSERVICES to CIRExpress give newspapers etc... magazines, pallets, parcels, If you need totransport at anyoftheselocations(advertisersin days atseaareuponhim. ed toacknowledgeUtzandhisaccomplishmentshere,nowthatthetwilightof deserves tobetoldinfulland,althoughmypencouldneverdoitjustice,Istillwant- connects mesomehowtothatrichpastandalonglifewelllivedatsea.Hisstory ter inthehistoryandtraditionofcruising.Talkingwithhim,listeningtohisstories, Utz isafascinatingcharacterinhisownright,butequaltothat,helivingchap- crossed this(and,asIlaterlearned,forthelast)timehereinMargarita.Why?Well, well behisverylastsail. than you’vebeenalive.HisnameisUtz,and,attheageof75,he’smadewhatcould the sea.And,unlessyou’remorethan59yearsold,hehasbeenonthatsealonger made apennyanywhereonland;hisentirelife’sincomehasallbeenearnedupon When heretiredfromthemerchantnavytogocruising39yearsago,he’dnever Froken two, allona31-footwoodenNorwegianfishingvessel.He’ssoloedhiscurrentboat, four solocircumnavigations.Hislongesttriparoundlastedsixyears;hisshortest, but needednewgaskets. But listenIhave. carefully especiallywheneverwe’veshared morethanafewroundsofrumtogether. first languageandGermanismypitiful last.SoI’vehadtofollowhiswordsvery not aneasymanformetounderstandif fornootherreasonthanEnglishisnothis deserved andeveryonewarrantingyour consideration.Butthattakeswork.Utzis things nautical,sometimeless,you mightviewasout-of-date,butallrichly erant ofusnew-agecruisers,norwould I beinhisplace.He’sgotanopiniononall done whenbiggermenwouldhavenever daredleavethedock. do it,againand—alone.Thoseinner strengthshaveenabledUtztodoallhe’s and passionforsailingsolongfromhisbelly,wherehe’sfoundtheguts to skills andknowledgelearnedover59years;fromhisheart,wherehe’skeptzest strength mustcome.Isuspectitcomesfromhisbrain,wherehe’sstoredall the for suchsoloaccomplishmentsashis.Thatmademewonderfromwherehistrue tures tellofalonglifeatsea,buthisslightphysiqueseemslessthanthatrequired unlike Utz,Istartedcruisingjustalittletoolate!) the onlygodtheywantedwasinmywallet.NotnearlywhatI’dhadmind.Iguess, overly aggressiveboatboys!Yes,theyweretopless,yesofferedintoxicants, but alas, mydreamsnevercametrue.AllIeverhadcomeouttowelcomevesselwere ing brewandwouldthenseductivelybegmetobecometheirGodofVirility.But, the girlswouldbetopless,theyfeedmecoconutsfilledwithsomeintoxicat- arrival inport.(Havingseentoomanymovies,I’dalwayshadafantasyaboutthat: young Polynesiannativegirlsrowouttohisboatintheirdugoutcanoesupon his ago thantothemoderngadgetryfoundonmostboatstoday.Inhistime,he’shad how todothesameusingtechnologycloserthatofthreeorfourhundredyears right afterWorldWarII.He’ssailedsquare-riggersandtrainedmerchantseamen I’d knownUtzbeforebutmadeitapointtoknowhimbetterwhenourrhumblines He wearsanecklaceoffourAntarcticsealclawsgiventohim,oneforeachhis “Charts. Theymake wonderful gaskets.ButnotBritishAdmiralty charts,though. “Huh? What?Charts?” “I’ll usecharts,”hesaid. His gearboxbrokedown awhileago.Utzintendedtorepair and rebuildithimself If helikesyou,he’sapleasantfellowin his ownsaltywaybutnotaltogethertol- To seeUtz,you’dneverguessallhe’sdone.Sure,histannedandweatheredfea- German born,hewenttoseaattheageof16withNorwegianMerchantNavy Cruising , awoodenColinArcher-designedcutter,acrosstheAtlantic(only)fivetimes. History Living by KeithSmith —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 , Dinner PM - 6 AM se. Call 784-488-8407 se. 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In St Vincent - near the port of Kingstown is an 18th century cob- In St Vincent ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU WALLILABOU the island. www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Basil’s in Mustique Visit WE SHIP TO ANY PLACE IN THE WORLD! E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) Monday-Saturday: 8am toMonday-Saturday: 12pm & 3pm to 6pm Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables Fine Wine, Cheeses, Corea THE FOOD STORE THE FOOD STORE P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, P.O. Box 851, Your #1 Choice for Provisioning Visitors to St Vincent are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors BAR: BASIL’S Air conditioned, and Bar. blestone building where you may find Basil’s Restaurant you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals, some of the best on Visitors to Mustique are invited to: to Mustique are Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S and today lives up to that tradi- Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek magazine Ten World’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more renovated the new face of Basil’s tion. Recently lunches and breakfasts. Terrific offering the freshest seafood, steaks and pastas for dinner. catch up on the web. Now equipped with WIFI you can enjoy sunset cocktails and January 24- February Basil’s Bar is home and originator of the Mustique Blues Festival 7 2007. Breakfast service begins at 8:00 in Villa: BASIL’S AT way for an exciting new business next fall. tinues until all stock is gone to make 784-456-2602 Island. Call space across from Young this Watch at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend the at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime and BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68. night Jump up and Wednesday BOUTIQUE BASIL’S women, men and children, For island evening and playful day wear. Elegant island joy. home. Basil’s Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. to take plus lots of T-shirts STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheeses from Europe, with fine French Great General Store - stocked sauces and gourmet jams. Imported cigars. Fine FOREVER: ACROSS has and India - contemporary pieces and fabulous lighting. Across Forever a magnificent collection of furniture and home accessories from Asia. Shipping is easily an who wanted Utz Froken Some time ago, after having gaskets had worked just fine. I gaskets had night wondering. left the bar that chart did he use? What specific stretch of ocean, What exotic ago, did he think sailed so long gear box gaskets? was best for greatly by the My thinking, aided me to go back and rum, tempted to Utz. Then I pose the question suspecting he’d decided not to, before laugh at the novice fool him who would think the geogra- phy of a chart could possibly make any difference to its virtues sure. as a gasket. But I’m not so some Wouldn’t the chart for place holding fond memories the make a better gasket than I chart of a place that didn’t? may ask him still. his made the decision to hang up sextant, Utz found a potential buyer for to sail her over to Trinidad to get to sail her over to Trinidad I her hauled and surveyed. her offered to help him take of there (since Utz has lost much the vision in one eye and admits than only now to less strength he’d prefer for solo passage mak- ing). So I offered to crew for him. Then I begged. Then pleaded. But Utz, more than a little stub- born in his ways, told the poten- tial buyers no. If they wanted to see the boat, they could damn well come over to Margarita. I promptly every month while , visit our website: readers — on-line subscriptions to Compass Compass are now available! Compass Compass Now Available! mast

Check it out! Tell your friends! For full details on getting your Great news for When you’re not in the Caribbean, with an on-line subscrip- They’re no good. The paper they use for those charts is too thick for good gaskets.” is too thick for those charts paper they use no good. The They’re material?” some gasket not just get “Utz, why thick.” — they’re too Admiralty charts not British just fine — but Charts work “What for? Utz sure enough, in mind. And to keep that I promised skeptical, Although

Are there more like Utz out here? Yes, I certainly hope so. We all should. Seafaring Are there more like Utz out here? Yes, I certainly hope May I gain even a kernel of Fair winds, good luck and God bless you, Captain Utz. On-Line Subscriptions on-line subscription to “back home” — without anxiously waiting for the postman to arrive! The entire on-line issue is downloadable and each indi- vidual page is printable, for those articles you want to file or share with friends and family. www.caribbeancompass.com. tion you’ll be able to read each complete monthly issue — every page, with all articles, photos and advertisements including the classifieds — at home, at work (we assume marine-related research is approved!) or while traveling. On-line subscribers will enjoy the complete Caribbean Compass Snapped through a porthole, this photo captures Utz, at age 75, two-thirds of the way up Froken’s —Continued page from previous that the nautical-chart box and rebuilt his gear day that he’d the next announced is older than known history and, although well documented in endless shelves of is older than known history and, although well documented history, to put our lifestyle books, how often do we get to sit down and talk with such hurried rush into the push- into that kind of perspective, before it’s all lost in our to sit down with Utz or any- button future. That’s why I’ll never miss an opportunity not just because of their one like him. Not just because they’re fascinating people, me), because it’s a chance to timeless wisdom or legendary stories, but (at least for have done this further and pay homage to those who have gone before us, those who we can ever really begin to longer and, in important ways, better, with far less than most of us can now only fol- appreciate. Like Utz, they have shown the way, one that But try making a gear box low with our GPS, chart plotters and autopilot in hand. gasket with your chart plotter. my time comes, some young your knowledge and experience so that, one day when boat will want to hear my whipper-snapper cruiser on his newfangled, gizmo-filled remember of you…. stories of old and, more importantly, those I’ll forever was crushed. I had already begun fantasizing what it would be like to crew for the was crushed. I had already begun fantasizing what it 59 years, four solo cir- man on what would be the last voyage of a career spanning student of cruising and histo- cumnavigations and five other ocean crossings. As a to witness, first hand, ry both, it would have been my once in a lifetime opportunity history of one man’s cruising the final page in the final chapter of such a celebrated him would have been noth- life. You see, to me, Utz is famous and, for me to sail with or pitching a baseball to ing less than accompanying Eric Clapton with my guitar Babe Ruth. MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Courses willbeheld8:00 tem patterns,andinterpretingsurface500mbcharts. mation, propagationanddecay,chartingsymbolsterminology,weathersys- marine weather,tropicalcyclonebasicsandavoidance,ofoceanwavefor- weather decisionswhenventuringoffshore.Thecoursecoverscauseandeffectof meteorologist andUSCGinstructorLeeChesneauwillteachhowtomakeyourown end courseinmarineweather.Backbypopulardemand,formerNOAAsenior Seven SeasCruisingAssociationisofferingavaluableandhighlyinformativeweek- If youareplanningtoheadfromNorthAmericatheCaribbeanthisfall, Coming South?KnowyourWeather! [email protected] orvisitwww.airmontserrat.com. For reservationsormoreinformationonAirMontserrat,call(664)491-6728,e-mail a BrittenNormanIslanderthatholdsuptoninepassengers. Trans AnguillaAirways(2000)Limited.Theairline,operatingsincelate2006,operates Air MontserratisownedbyPhilipRogers,anativeMontserratian,andoperated sightseeing toursareavailableatanadditionalcharge. fares startatUS$140perperson,basedonthenumberofpassengers.Montserrat 9:00 For [email protected]. sional regattaskipperonrequestforregattasintheCaribbean. rented outmainlyasabareboatcharteryacht,thecompanyprovidesprofes- While theA40willbe with high-techregattasailsandsleepsuptoeightpeople. Joubert-Nivelt-designed A40racingyachtsavailableforcharter.Theboatcomes No LimitsChartersatPalapaMarinainSt.Maartennowhastwobrand-new No LimitsOffersRacyCharters Annapolis andothervenues. www.ssca.org/eventind.htm; [email protected] Online registrationiscurrentlyavailableforDaniaBeachat antee aspace. (Annapolis, Maryland).Enrollmentislimited,soearlyregistrationadvisedtoguar- East CoastdatesareMay26and27(DaniaBeach,Florida)October1314 breakfast andlunchoneachworkingday. SSCA membersandUS$350fornon-members)includesworkbook,continental Breaker” andintroductionontheFridayimmediatelybefore.Thecost(US$300for Flights leavetheVanceW.AmoryInternationalAirportinNevisateither8:00 Soufrière HillsVolcano. Montserrat’s eco-adventureactivitiesalongwiththenaturalphenomenonof dents inNevisnowhavetheopportunitytodiscoverandexplorenearby Nevis toMontserrat.Withonly18minutesofflyingtimeeachway,visitorsorresi- Air Montserrat,aprivatecharterairline,hasjustmadeiteasytoislandhopfrom Island HopfromNevistoMontserrat Horizon YachtCharterbasesintheCaribbeanvisitwww.horizonyachtcharters.com. www.antiguahorizon.com [email protected] For moreinformationonHorizonYachtChartersAntigua,visit insufficient sailingexperience. of AntiguaandBarbudaforfivedaysormore.Skippersareavailablepartieswith ing, gueststhensetsailtoexperiencetheunspoiltanchoragesandstunningwaters three-, four-orfive-cabinmonohullscatamarans.Afterayachtandchartbrief- west coastofAntigua,guestswillboardayachtchosenfromonethefleet’s After spendingtwodaysexploringsomeofthe40divesitesoffCadesReefon offered forthosewhohaven'tdivedayearormore. ognized OpenWaterPADIcertificate.Complimentaryrefreshercoursesarealso niently basedatJollyHarbourMarina.Theonlyrequirementisaninternationallyrec- tion withIndigoDivers,whichtogetherHorizonYachtCharters,isalsoconve- front villawithair-conditioningthroughout.Thedivingelementisofferedinassocia- …BusinessBriefs Jolly HarbourMarina.Guestswillstayinawaterfronttwo-bedroom,two-bathwater- The shoresideaccommodationisprovidedinAntigua'spremierresortmarina,the a Horizonyachtbetween40and50feetinlength. ashore withuptofivedivesovertwodays,afurthernightsspentsailingon everything Antiguahastoofferaboveandbelowthewater.Threenightsarespent age designedtoaccommodatesailingdivers(ordivingsailors!)whowantenjoy Horizon YachtCharters,Antigua,haslaunchedaneight-night“Sail&Dive”pack- Sail &DivePackageinAntigua frompage7 —Continued AM and returnfromGerald’sAirportinMontserratat3:00 AM to 5:30 PM Saturday andSunday,withanevening“Ice- PM or 4:00 PM . Round-trip AM or or [email protected]. For moreinformationvisitwww.spectrawatermakers.com nology, superbcustomerserviceandatrainedworldwidedistributionnetwork.” tems wehavebuilttodate.Wecontinueleadthewaywithwater-makingtech- the globe.TheMKIIseriesismostreliable,easytouseandversatileofanysys- result ofallthathasbeenlearnedfromthethousandsSpectrasystemscruising Bill Edinger,PresidentofSpectraWatermakers,stated:“TheNewport400MKIIisthe event ofacloggedfilterorotherfaultevent. mission criticalcontrolsystemswitchestolowmodekeepmakingwaterinthe a backwardsflowthroughthesystemandpre-filterswhichprolongsfilterlife low modeformaximumpowerefficiency.Arevolutionarybackwashsystemcreates trol, andmulti-speedcapability—highmodeformaximumwaterproductiona tures includeanadditionalMPC5000touchpadcontrolontheunitforlocalcon- dynamic modulardesignmakingforeasierandfasterinstallation.Othernewfea- The Newport400MKIIislighterandmorecompactthanitspredecessorwitha taking aquantumstepinproducingthenextgenerationofdesalinators. advanced marinedesalinationsystemavailabletoday,withSpectraonceagain According toitsmanufacturers,theNewport400MKIIismosttechnically Latest SpectraWaterMaker–‘TheNextGeneration’ For [email protected]. a compactdriveboxforinterfacingwithazimuth/Z-drivesorbowandsternthrusters. tems. Built-insoftwareallowstheCommandertoconnectwithComNav'sCT7Interface, The ComPilotCommanderiscompatiblewithallonboardinstrumentsandsteeringsys- a continuouscircleandU-turn.EmergencyMOBsteerstheWilliamsonRecoveryTurn. Anglers benefitfromtheCommander’squicklyselectedrangeofpresetturns,suchas simplify operationinanylightingcondition. contrast colorLCDdisplaywitheightlevelsofbacklightingandilluminatedkeypad fast speeds,whileportandstarboarddodgebuttonshelpavoidcollisions.Thehigh- station keeping.Proportionalratecontrolprovidessmoothandgentleresponseat tide. Otheradvancedpowerfeaturesincludethrusterassistfordead-aheadslowor Automatic helmbiasandleewaycontrolminimizecourseerrorsduetowind opposite tackfeature. Alarms warnofwindshifts,andasailorwon’tupinironswiththeone-touch and one-touchpresettackangle,theCommanderisparticularlyvaluabletosailors. With advancedsteer-to-windfeatures,includinggybeinhibit,adjustablewindfilters and Icelandic,withotherssuchasRussianChineseavailablesoon. ComNav MarinenowofferslanguagechoicesofEnglish,French,Spanish,Italian understand criticalinformationonthedisplay.TheComPilotCommanderfrom Even themostadvancedautopilotinworldwillbeoflittleuseifcrewcan’t ComNav MarineAutopilotNowMulti-Lingual P RODUCT P OSTINGS MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 homo , had faced Blue Gull variety, while porthole scoops (above) draw in Mike Beaumont is cruising the Caribbean aboard A good friend of mine, Alan on A good friend You can see from the second photograph how they These items have solved our security problem. We One final point, the wind scoops DO NOT keep out I hope these ideas might inspire you to think more S/V Phantasie. that it would be very difficult to install a system of system a to install very difficult be it would that in a not want to live that we do any case I felt bars. In in an of escape a means and we do require prison boat that the we are fortunate In our case emergency. open but even when side ports with opening is fitted are anchor as they air when at little these provide to catch the breeze. wrongly situated vacuum-formed wind scoops which one could attach to the cabin sides with industrial Velcro. Alan had sev- eral of these made up and we were given a couple of them for our boat. attach to the cabin side over the opening ports and scoop the air flow into the cabin interior. insert and lock the companionway grille at night, we lock the Lewmar hatches which can be unlocked by us from inside in a second, then open the two portlights with wind scoops for plenty of airflow through the boat. the rain. Unfortunately the rain is blown in by the scoops right over my berth so I have to close them when it rains during the night! about your security at night. the same problem and had come up with the design of and had come up with the same problem A ‘screen door’ (left) keeps out any pests of the sapiens welcome breezes

by Mike Beaumont Having solved the problem of companionway securi- Two problems need to be solved: first, somewhere to Two problems need to be solved: solution to those prob- The first picture shows my picture. The bolt is sim- The bolt one can see in the ply fabricated but has several advantages. It lies total- ly flat within the dimensions of the grille which allows for easy stowage of the grille under a berth for exam- ple. The lock is easily accessed and very visible from both inside and outside the boat. I offer this design as it may provide a solution for your boat. ty my attention then turned to the hatches that we used to open at night. These hatches were Lewmar designs and, having replaced one recently, I was aware night. This would allow air to enter the boat but pre- night. This would allow air vent unauthorized entry. second, a bolt design that stow the additional item, and secure and stowable. keeps the companionway hatch with 7/8 inch stainless lems. The grille is simply made companionway entrance. steel tube welded up to fit the A SOLUTION A

I think that we in the cruising community must do One common argument against locking up the boat

The issue of personal security has gripped the cruis- The issue of personal security that we visit sim- I hold the view that these countries essential, is difficult in Police protection, although FOR SECURITY FOR more to protect ourselves. At home one would not leave the house without locking up, so why not make the boat secure? One’s dinghy should always be locked too. Remember the slogan “lock it, or lose it.” is “It’s too hot. We need the air.” This argument has validity when the day is a furnace and at night partic- ularly when the breeze dies. The answer is some form of security grille to replace the companionway doors at ing community for some time. Meetings have been held ing community for some time. security for cruisers. with many pleadings for improved to protect visiting ply do not have the resources locals have a hard time yachtsmen and -women. The crime. protecting themselves against open borders. small island communities with MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 The sternissupportedbystainlessrails Wandering Star’s brought thembacktoRiverBendmarinaand next weekend.havingtradedourhirecarforasuitablevehiclewithroofrack,we headed thatwaytovisitfriendsfortheweekendandwereableclosedeal.The Avon RIBwithafive-horsepowerNissaninClearwaterseekingnewhome.Wewere A scanoftheclassifiedsfoundanine-foot from thoseidyllicanchoragestotheshore. function, wassometransporttotakeus in thetropicalclimateandnowrefusedto which hadlaindormantformanymonths and triedtogetworkingallthesystems can. Theonlythingmissing,aswerefitted appealed tomysensesasonlyasailboat built insteelandaluminum,which Wandering Star suitable toliveonfulltimeandfound Fort Lauderdaletolookatcruisingboats your inflatabledinghyon. back onmanyboatstoraiseandabuse know: thosepiecesofmetalslungoutthe course I’mreferringtomydavits.You and Iwasgladtoseethebackofthem. ing oftheyears,untilfinallywedivorced ship whichdidn’timprovewiththepass- over, itturnedintoalove/haterelation- Let mestartatthebeginning.Weflewto “Them?” Ihearyouask,butyes,of I joy. Butoncethehoneymoonwas it startedoutsohopefullyandfullof t wasabitlikemarriageIsuppose, , aHermanson44custom dinghy hasfoundasecureonboardhome,neatlyinsertedaft. RIDER PIGGY -BACK Wandering Star . by GlynJohnson

Up anddowntheislandsinshelteredBahamianwatersbackStates found ahomestrippedoutandupsidedownontheforedeckforseriouspassages. arrive inWestEndwithoutseriousdamage.Afterthatbaptismoffire,theAvon was tooroughtoriskventuringontotheaftdeckretieitandwewerelucky ALL PHOTOS: GLYN JOHNSON GLYN PHOTOS: ALL was needed! in adecklocker.Whoaretheykidding?Clearlymorethought ed youtouseasoft-bottomdinghyandrollitupstow what theydidwiththeirdinghies,butmostofthemexpect- boats, 60feetormoreandwayoutofourpricerange,tosee abuse, handlestornoffandchafepatchesaroundtheends. and sawsimilarscarsonmanyofthedinghiestypicaldavit riencing. Iwasn’taloneinthis:watchedotherswithdavits dinghy andriskthecontinuingweartearthatIwasexpe- they wouldhavetogo,andIcertainlywasn’tgoinggetanew been chafedthroughthefabric. Trinidad wearrivedwithadeflateddinghy—holehad retying asweroareddownthewaves.Ononepassageto something alwaysseemedtocomelooseandwouldneed with springropesandbreastall-roundropes, they werenotliftingdirectlyvertically,buttryasImight as wegetoldersotheenginegetsheavier! bracket onthestern,butjustasourclothesseemtoshrink showing. Forpassages,wewouldremovetheengineontoa limits attheheavyendfordavitsandstrainwas fuel, etcetera—butthiswasveryclosetothestructural anchorage wewouldliftthedinghy—completewithengine, couldn’t movewasalmostimpossible.Overnightinan terous andtryingtolashthedinghyondavitssoit Mercury wassoonridingonourstern. the issue,andanine-footCaribewith15-horsepower The imminentarrivaloffriendstobecarriedaboutforced engine toraiseitontheplaneabovethoseslappingwaves. had togetasturdierdinghywithbigtubesandbigger dinghied ashoresoonlosttheirappeal,andweknew seas tocontendwith.Daysgettingsoakedeverytimewe well foracoupleofyears. on theICWandChesapeake,evenuptoMaine,allwent We visitedtheboatshowinEnglandandlookedatbig Slowly butsurelythosedavitslosttheirappealandIknew To befair,thedavitswerespacedforalongerdinghyso Passages betweentheislandsweregenerallyprettybois- Then wecamedowntotheCaribbean,withrealwindand swayed, looseningsomeofthelines,butit enced. ThepoorlittleAvonbouncedand the roughestpassagewehaveeverexperi- but thatturnedintothetripfromhellwith we lashedthedinghytightondavits, Gulf StreamtotheBahamasandforthat the ticket,hangingtherereadyforaction. was swungintopositionandlookedjust scoop stern,buteventuallyourlittleAvon over thelargestepcreatedbysugar- and minimisethedraggingofdinghy the dinghywellclearofanyfollowingseas the sterndeckatsufficientheighttohold neering wasrequiredtomountthemoff part, allshinyandpurposeful.Someengi- a usedpairofdavitswhichlookedthe of amarina.Iwasdelightedwhenfound and notsomethingthatjustday-sailedout they madeaboatlooklikerealcruiser davits gaveaboatsortofgrown-upair; this stagethatIhadalwaysthought it wasn’tbeingused.Ihavetoadmitat hoisting thedinghyoutofwaterwhen Our maidenvoyagewastobeacrossthe The nextproblemwastofindawayof —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 About the author: Glyn is a supporter of the “If it looks right, it probably is right” it probably it looks right, of the “If is a supporter author: Glyn About the Above: The crane lifts the dinghy — outboard and all — and swings it into place Above: The crane lifts the dinghy — outboard and all — between the backstays and under the radar arch and hand-holds Below: The dinghy’s support rails form an obvious gateway for the swim ladder College of Nautical Engineering. With his wife Jenny, he has been cruising full time for wife Jenny, he has been cruising Engineering. With his College of Nautical since 2000. in the Eastern Caribbean nine years, and the prop. Total cost of the project was less then US$1,000. Confident about the sys- the about Confident US$1,000. less then was project of the cost prop. Total the handles one with the afford a used could only dinghy — but got our new tem, we secur- to have trouble owner used the previous scuffed where and the sides all torn his davits! ing it on , between the backstays, and it , between the Wandering Star is a centre-cockpit boat with a small aft deck and large sugar- boat with a small aft is a centre-cockpit Looking around at other cruising boats it was apparent that some people had some people apparent that boats it was other cruising around at Looking Wandering Star A plan started to take shape! If we could mount a swiveling crane to one side of If we could mount a swiveling crane to one side A plan started to take shape! a catamaran provided the stainless tubing with one Some old bimini frames from would open up the entry onto the aft deck a little Changing the backstay to twins tube to make a stand- Eventually I sourced some four-inch schedule 40 aluminum radius, together with side A one-and-a-half-inch tube bent to the appropriate into the water and put the It was another month before we were able to go back the stowage with some Some months down the line we have thoroughly tested —Continued page from previous to the platform on sliders allowing platforms ingenious own solutions, found their plat- then the whole floated on, and dinghy to be and the the slide down heavy obviously very a huge and had up. A large catamaran back form winched a similar and lower deck to raise under the bridge mounted hydraulic arm stainless which absence of davits on motorboats, noticeable of all was the platform. Most of the water and pick the dinghy out small cranes which would seemed to favour A simple and elegant solution. onto some form of cradle. swing it onboard scoop stern. The backstay was split about ten feet above the deck and connected to ten feet above the deck and backstay was split about scoop stern. The a little over five apart. A Caribe dinghy is on the stern about five feet two chainplates all the pieces out is its flexibility! Stripping of an inflatable boat feet, but the beauty the help of friends, I tried maneuvering to lighten it, and with the of the dinghy into the stern of dinghy lengthwise the rear step and make some rails to support the dinghy above the sugar-scoop the rear step and make some the deck so the V of the dinghy bottom would be clear of stern, a little above the aft be supported in a similar fashion to when being trans- deck, then the dinghy would The flat fibreglass portion of a nine-foot RIB is fair- ported on a boat trailer or trolley. only be needed along a section about three feet long and ly short and support would close to the transom. rising from the large rubbing strake around the stern bend already done. Two rails around the shape of the stern to tie in with the pushpit platform and then curving where we could mount our swim ladder. Two more rails formed an obvious gateway forward to the aft deck to support the dinghy. would “T” off these and run all was to find was a crane. Easy you might think, with more, and all that was left the but a troll through the various catalogues and even those motorboats around, his We found one manufacturer in the States but internet was to prove frustrating. for us at least, prohibitive, let alone the customised crane prices for stock items was, get stern. Trinidad is normally a great place to we required to fit on our crowded year trying to get anything done also seemed frustrating. things fabricated, but last but that’s another story. Pricing also seemed to be prohibitive, at the top to my old davit pipe to be bolted to the flat deck on my stern and fixed Delrin bearings top and bot- mounting. A Delrin base plate inside the tube with plain aluminum tube to be sup- tom would allow the crane constructed out of three-inch to clear other fixtures on the ported and yet swivel freely. Designing the cranes offset the dinghy up cleanly from the stern and still give sufficient height and range to pick was largely trial and error, side of the boat, and bring it around and into the aft deck, measuring. playing with sections of plastic waterpipe and lots of attachments for a winch, and plates, would support the weld of the offset joint and sections myself and took the turning blocks would complete the design. I cut all the operations, the parts looked parts to a machine shop for the welding and bending and fitted on the stern huge but finally it looked like a crane. Once it was painted and solar panel structures then it just seemed to blend and fit in with the radar arch already there. the project was a 100-per- new structure to the test away from inquisitive eyes, but together with all its load of cent unmitigated success. The crane raised the dinghy the stern of the boat where engine, fuel and spares easily, and swung it round into about motoring up and down it sat. It was so snug and secure that we felt confident way. It is a one-person job to the Trinidad anchorages without having to tie it in any dragging it over the rear step. now to haul and stow the dinghy — no more damage of the dinghy than it would The engine is probably better supported on the transom means that the dinghy will be on its outboard bracket. Fitting in longitudinally It is such a neat solution that always drain on either tack in the event of heavy rain. mounted on the stern don’t many people going past our boat when the dinghy is even notice that it is there. has had advantages we never very rough seas, but all remains secure. This project but also safer, as the dreamed about and makes our cruising not only easier, available for use in any dinghy with its 15-horsepower engine in place is readily with propulsion into emergency, from a man overboard situation to just assisting available due to a rope round an anchorage should the main engine fail or not be looked like it could fit. looked like it MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 (see lastmonth’s Canaima, totallyexhilaratedbythesmall-planeflight want toseeAngelFalls?Arrivinginthenearesttown, Who couldpaintaboatintherain?Andwhowouldn’t on aquietriver,ourgroupcautiouslyboardedthevessel. be involvedinsomethingmorethenjustalittlemeander ly inamannerthatshoutedtouswewereabout Having watchedallofourgearbeingstowedmeticulous- concerned, the“gowithflow”attitudeprevailed. our intendeditineraryhadchangedandalthoughabit ed usattheendoftrail.Atthispointwerealizedthat person canoepoweredbya45-horsepowermotorawait- guage barrier.Thiswasreallygoingtobefun.The12- — withlaughterandjokingthattranscendedanylan- take intheshorthiketoournextconveyance—acanoe of ourtripcametoanunceremonioushalt. the truckupwithfuel;halfwayahill4X4part clean andtheviewwasgreat.Toobadtheyforgottofill war yearsago.Noonereallyminded,astheseatswere sure wasmilitarysalvageusedtocarrytroopsinsome up inanenlargedpickup4X4-stylevehiclewhichIam the onlyonesrepresentingMapleLeaf.Weloaded with mostofourSouthAmericanadventures,wewere and Swisscouples,withafewsinglesthrownin.As show upandtheywouldnotleaveanyonebehind. ators themselves.Theyknewhowmanypeoplehadto rather thinkofitasacollectivecalmamongtheoper- sidered bysomepeopleasdisorganization.Iwould for thetouroperatorstogettheiracttogetherwascon- By Cruisin’Canucks ADMIRING THEANGEL U Gear inhandweallhoppedoutandproceededtopar- Our groupconsistedofFrench,German,Colombian head forsomeofVenezuela’sinlandwonders. led ustotakeabreakfromtheboatyardand nexpected downpoursofraininCumanáhad Compass ), itseemedtheshortwait ALL ASHORE… —Continued onnextpage —Continued

ALL PHOTOS: ROTTEVEEL of 2,648feet 3,212 feetandalongestsingledrop world. AngelFallshasatotaldropof This isit—thehighestwaterfallin Our provisions preceding us on the river journey to the falls

We all knew we were going to get wet! This was going to be a great test for Barb’s new waterproof camera case. The canoe was expertly guided through what started out as tranquil waters and ended up as an embroiled river torrent. We literally jumped up the small waterfalls MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 and careened around rocks and trees. The constant chant of the operator’s assistant, “mano mano” (in other words, watch out for your hands), was for good reason as ‘The base was inviting our canoe and the rocks both showed the battle scars of the swimmers to partake paint. I am sure that these rocks have eaten a finger or in a magical dip in this two in their time. The boat trip came to a partial stop as magnificent location of we hopped out at a portage spot. The 40-minute hike rock formations, jungle over a flat savannah was a quiet interlude and offered and spectacular everyone a chance to enjoy a 360-degree view of a spec- waterfalls’ tacular piece of natural real estate. Once all the liquids were drained and… —Continued on next page MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 hung arounddisappointedbyourculinarysatisfaction. vided wasdevouredbyall,leavingthebirdsandfishthat running throughasprinkleronhotday.Thelunchpro- inspired thisgroupofadultstogigglewithgleelikekids waterfall. Thewaterwaswarmandrefreshing tured intothewonderfulpoolsunderthispicturesque All ofthethrillseekersclamberedoverrocksandven- ing upthismagicalamusementparkride. high-speed canoecouldofferandwewereagainspeed- ers politelyandsilentlynegotiatedforthebestseats …replenished ourlittlebandofinternationaladventur- frompreviouspage —Continued The halfwaypointwasaplacecalledHappinessFalls. Phone: +(5999) 4658936 Fax: 4658941 Email: [email protected] New marinecenterpresentsthelatestDutchinnovationinboathandling equipment. Curaçao Marine Hauling capacity45tonsandCatamarans upto33ftbeam. Safe drystoragewith24hourssecurity We arelocatedinthesafeharbor ofWillemstad. AWLGRIP® indoorspraypainting and manyotherservices. - Long-termstorage. with you. sidering thistriptakeoneofthosebleachercushions ent partsofourbodiesreacttotravel.Ifyouarecon- enough isenough.Italwaysamazesmehowthediffer- should havelastedlongerbutourbumsweresaying hiking outpostafteratripthatourmindsweresaying rapids andwhite-waterexcitement.Wearrivedatour geological formation or tablemountains,arethisarea’ssignature The tripbeganandendedintranquilwaters.Tepuis, Off wewentuptheriverformorethrillingturns, www.curacaomarine.com were… thebestwasyettocome. in ournextepisodethatasspectacularAngelFalls drops ofpowertogeteverypossiblephoto.Youwillsee clicked untilmostbatteriesweredowntotheirlastfew of thetrip.Thedigitalcamerasandvideoswhirled awe attheAngelFallsthatthiswouldbehighlight band oftravelershadthoughtthroughtheircollective race downtherapidstoCanaima.Ourinternational coffee, wewereallreadytoclimbintothecanoefora beginning. Withaheartybreakfastandtheobligatory place toawonderfulclimaxandthedaywasonlyjust the riverbroughtallsensationsofthismagical Completing themorningritualbyskinnydippingin liant goldspectacleinthematterofanhour. side changedfromadarkloomingshadowtobril- camp. Iwasnotdisappointedastheentiremountain- Angel wasbestadmiredatsunriserightfromour ished tosatisfyourhunger). everyone (excludingthenumerouschickensthatper- we choseourhammockspot,butallwasgoodfor grilling onanopenspitwasabitofdistractionwhile made theshortjourneytoourcamp.Thechicken until dusk.Weallpoppedintothecanoeexpertlyand with plantphotosandasurroundingsenseofawe that theywouldbefine. thongs justdon’tcutit,eventhoughwehadbeentold shoes, itwouldbewisetofollowsuit!Thebeach normally goesaroundbarefootlaceupapairofhiking regards tofootwearselection.Ifyouseeaguidewho wrong shoeselection.Alittlehinttofellowtravelersin brunt ofthehikeaswehadundoubtedlymade ful forceholdingustotheview.Ourfeethadtaken taken thewindoutofoursailsandwefoundapower- decided toforgotheswimashikehaddefinitely rock formations,jungleandspectacularwaterfalls.We partake inamagicaldipthismagnificentlocationof two-hour hike.Thebasewasinvitingtheswimmersto almost divinesightasittoweredaboveusafterour can interpret. the silentunderstandingthatonlybodylanguage dering aloneatthebackofpackwasreplacedby that wewerefineandhisinitialworryforuswan- the curiousfrustrationofourguide.Hesoonlearned little intentionofcatchingtheothersup,muchto and faunafoundusmeanderingmostlyalonewith jungle ofVenezuela.Barb’sfascinationwithflowers marked andstartedoutasalovelystrollthroughthe Morning cameearly,asIwasgivenahintthatthe The hikedownfromthefallswasfilledonceagain The AngelFallsliveduptoitsbillingasafantastic, The hiketothebaseofAngelFallsiswell MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Circumnavigators Suzanne Longacre and John We spent the afternoon vegging out at the huge trop- We spent the afternoon vegging arose at daybreak the While the rest of the family Bidding farewell the next morning was not easy, We hope our family was as thrilled going through the We truly enjoyed our city fix off the boat, but the real Gideonse are currently cruising the Western Caribbean aboard their 39-foot Privilege catamaran. the marina for tours of Lake Gatun: the men went to the men went of Lake Gatun: for tours the marina of the strategically the remains Island to see Radio protect the post established to important military ashore and WWII, as well as the wildlife Canal during for the The rest of us opted along the lakeshore. a crocodile Tour, which also featured Monkey Island vivid- banks of the lake. I remembered sunning on the in 1995 how made our Canal Transit ly when we after anchor- to jump in the cool lake relieved we were transiting after a very hot day after ing for overnight at the time Colon. Little did we know halfway from crocs! The is home to many resident that the lake to spot — they’ve learned howler monkeys were hard well — but on the next to camouflage themselves very were awaiting their regular island, hungry capuchins on board the roof of the treats. They actually climb Yes, the grand- launch for real up-close encounters. were their mother and children were thrilled (as grandmother). In the Monkey Bar that ical oasis they call a pool. conversation with a evening, we had an interesting the Smithsonian Institute, marine bio-engineer from on the Canal, as well as which has a Research Center Environmental Exhibits the excellently designed Marine on Culebra Island at the end of the Amador Causeway grandson is consider- in Panama City. My 11-year-old Engineering, so who ing a career in Environmental planted! knows — maybe a seed was Trek along the famous next day for a Birdwatching National Park, your Pipeline Road in Soberania therapeutic massage in the sybaritic writer opted for a resort’s very well-equipped spa. After dinner that evening, we all went on the “night chiva” (open-sided truck) to see nocturnal wildlife with a spotlight. Both the night chiva and the kayaking are free resort activ- ities, as are guided daily nature treks along the Las Cruces Trail or the Chunga Chagres Trail. The pool, restaurants and tours are all available to day visitors, a wonderful option for those with limited time or resources. Gamboa Resort’s location, about midway between Colon and Panama City, makes it easy to reach from either the Caribbean or the Pacific coast. Checkout their website at www.gamoboaresort.com. though we chose a very special way to return to Panama City: a partial Canal transit, terminating at Flamenco Marina on the Pacific. Gamboa’s unfailingly helpful guest relations staff, Katarina Litvinova, had our luggage transferred to their bayfront highrise sis- ter property, the Intercontinental Miramar on the Bay of Panama. The location was superb, service was top- notch and the facilities luxurious. Pedro Miguel and Miraflores Locks as we were many years before. Our three guys took a side trip out to Miraflores Locks from the City to see the excellent new bilingual museum there — especially for engineering types. We all visited the well-done Panama Canal Museum in Casco Viejo (the area is being restored to its former Colonial elegance), though it would have been more helpful with the addition of English trans- lations. Fine restaurants (our favorite was Eurasia), city sightseeing and shopping awaited — gifts and clothes for the landlubbers, boat parts for us. winner was escaping to Gamboa — a wonderfully stimulating and relaxing way to spend a day or more. plus Zeelander, ), we hopped the free shuttle to Los ), we hopped the free The six-year old Rainforest Aerial Tram is a The six-year old Rainforest PM yards away. We were also graced with wildlife yards away. We were also graced — turtles on a company just over the railing and many birds log, small ferret-like animals in the trees above. Dominica, but it bit smaller than the one in tall Observation boasts a marvelous, very with user-friendly Tower at the top of the hill, breathtaking views ramps instead of steps. The are of Soberania over the rainforest canopy Gamboa Resort is National Park in which the way up to the located, the Rio Chagres all its never-ending dam, and the Canal itself with Our guide was stream of marine traffic. the flora extremely knowledgeable regarding and fauna, providing a fun educational tour for adults and children alike. After the tram, we also visited the on-property Aquarium (learn- ing firsthand the difference between crocodiles and caimans), the Butterfly House, the Orchid Nursery and my grandson’s favorite, the Serpentarium (Snake House). Wind and Sea Day Charter, Mayreau,Tobago Cays, Palm Island, Mopion Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878 [email protected] Okaou Boutique Souvenirs, Craft,Tee Shirts, Pareos, Bathing suits, Furniture and more… Tel: (784) 458 8316 Bougainvilla@vincysurf .com Seaquarium Restaurant & Bar Seafood specialties, Live lobsters (Sept to Apr), Bar, Pizzeria, Pool, Table Games and its Giant Aquarium Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8311 [email protected] The Dock Water Station, Dockage, Watertaxi, Ice (Blocks & Cubes), Bakery (French bread) Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878 [email protected] The next morning, we boarded covered launches at Our spacious rooms boasted a balcony overlooking the usual five-star amenities. the grounds, pool, river and mountains beyond, with hammocks so comfy I bought one for Lagartos, the riverside luncheon restaurant at the Lagartos, the riverside luncheon the terrace, you can see all resort’s marina. Seated on through a few hundred the Canal traffic passing Because our rooms weren’t quite ready (checkout is Because our rooms weren’t at 1:00 Union Island ALL ASHORE… ALL Aerial Tram Tour. PM in Bocas del Toro cruising the

Zeelander by Suzanne Longacre by Suzanne

Panama’s Gamboa Panama’s Bougainvilla When we arrived at the Gamboa Eco-Resort before We recently spent four days there with family visit- Got your Panama Canal transit date, but it’s still Got your Panama Canal transit Rainforest Getaway Rainforest GIDEONSE JOHN (2): PHOTOS From the modern man-made marvels of the Panama Canal, the natural wonders of the Gamboa Rainforest are within easy reach noon after a 20-minute ride from the domestic air ter- minal at Albrook, we were warmly greeted with a wel- come drink in the Monkey Bar and confirmed our e- mail reservations for the 3:00 archipelago, snorkeling pristine reefs, watching dol- phins frolic and butterflies flit, kayaking, horseback riding in the jungle, spotting red frogs, touring an organic chocolate farm, winning Second Place in the Bocas Lighted Boat Parade and celebrating New Years Eve at the marina yachtie-style, a change was on order for the two grandchildren and their parents. estate investments, picking up boat supplies or getting your last “urban fix” for a while? You could be a per- fect candidate for a truly remarkable, close-by getaway — for one day or several — a visit to Gamboa on the Rio Chagres at the Panama Canal. ing from Florida for the holidays. Beaches and warm weather are not big draws for Florida folks — they were looking for adventure coupled with carefree relaxation from the everyday hustle and bustle of mod- ern work and school life in the USA. So after a busy week aboard days or weeks away, even though you’ve worked like days or weeks away, even on your boat for your beavers to get everything ready Or are you in Panama Pacific or Caribbean adventure? alternatives, real City to check out expat retirement MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 mature “bosshog”Blufflookeduponallthisfoolishnesswithcompletedisdain. Mandy givingitherall-outbestandGuinnessjustlopingalonginlowgear.Themore mouse. Thetwoofthemtookturnschasingoneanotherupanddownthebeach, Guinness, who’sstillayoungster,seemeddelighted,treatingMandylikebrandnew hold herownwithGuinnessandBluff,theirtwohugeRottweiler/Dobermans. three weekswhiletheywenttotheUS,wesaid,“Soundsinteresting!” we’d liketostayintheirhouseoutatBluffBeachandtakecareoftwodogsfor owners ofBuenaVistaBar&RestaurantandRealtyinBocasaskedif trying outafewhousesmightbegoodidea.WhenJimandSumayyahMcCarren, it mightbegettingclosetotimethinkabout“landing”somewhere.Sowethought Toro inPanama.Wedon’tknowmuchaboutlivingahouseanymore,butwethink with ourboatdog)… We knewwe’dbe‘sitting’twobigdogs(seenherehavingbeachtime ‘PET SITTING’ So wewentforavisitmainlytoseeifMandy,ourlittleMiniatureSchnauzer,could For thepast15years,we’velivedonoursailboat, www.themarinaatportantonio.com [email protected] • VHF Channel16 Contact John Louis •876-715-6044876-873-4412 Caribbean, servicingyachts upto95'inlength. The only100-tontravel liftinthispartofthe YOU SAY? by MaryHeckrotte Camryka , presentlyinBocasdel THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON Errol Flynn &BoatyardErrol Marina       Duty Free ZoneinMarina Engine andPart Specialists 24 HourFuel Paint Sheds 100 Ton Travel-lift Full ServiceMarina PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENTON

 more questionsaboutexactlywhatkindofpetswe’llbesitting. gly warm,wasathree-footlongboaconstrictor.Maybenexttimewe’llaskfew grabbed thebackrestfromchairIwassittinginand—ohmigawd,aSEATMATE! up, reading,relaxing.Thesunhadmoved.otherchairwouldbebetter.SoI rest cushionsinonechair.I’dbeensnuggledforaboutanhourorso,feetpropped and Ilikedthetwowickerchairswithpurplecushions. the walls,howlermonkeysinjunglesurroundingus.Carllikedrockingchair road, theparrotscomingandgoingthroughtrees,geckoessqueakingdown the porch, ing withnoboatchorestokeepthembrokendownthequick.Morningswesaton I wantoneofthosethingsfortheboat! through thoseincrediblepotholes,endingupwithmudsplatteredtoourknees.Yes! hoo! Whataride!Weracedthroughthejungle,splashedsurf,andplowed eral daysbeforewegotupthenervetoforatripbackintoBocasTown.Butwoo- say “hunh-unh!”todrivingtheSUV. ible potholes.Itonlytookonelookatthoselittleplankscalled“bridges”tomakeus SUV, onlysixmilesfromBocasTownbutittakesnearlyanhourthroughtheincred- Beach. JimandSumayyahtookusouttotheirhouseinbigfour-wheeldrive puter andchowforMandy—oh,afewclothes. doesn’t move.Yeah,wecandothis.Wepackeddrinksandfoodbookscom- Back-up generator?Reallyremotearea? There, curledinthecreviceunderbackrest,whereI’dbeenkeepinghimsnug- Well… atleastuntilIdecideditmightbemorecomfortabletositwithtwoback- Life wasdefinitelyabeachoutatBluffBeachandmyfingernailswereevengrow- Instead theyleftuswiththeirtwoall-terrainvehicles—ATVs.Weweretheresev- We mustconfesstobeingabitintimidatedbytheconditionofroadoutBluff We lookedatthehouse.Solarpower?Cookingwithpropane?Watercollection? Out ofthe Water Storage Upto95Feet OT NOI,JAMAICAPORT ANTONIO, … butIneverdreamedI’dendupreallysittingonthisbaby! Introducing theNEW muy tranquilo , reading,listeningtothewaveswhooshingjustacross       etuat Beach Bar&Grille Restaurant, 24 HourSecurityGatedMarina Open Air Market1Minuteby Foot Depth Upto25Feet atFace Dock Downtown Nightlife Protected Harbor No problema Navigating thegood life

, kindalikelivingonaboatthat  MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 , New York Times Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware to wine to calypso e-mail: [email protected] z Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear mothers and daughters started mothers and daughters started American-style football is extremely rare in the islands and it is difficult to view is difficult to islands and it rare in the is extremely football American-style locally tele- I suffered through a lot of hook in Chaguaramas, Swinging on the was on Sundays next to the high school in the My first encounter with cricket a top baseball hitter (with or without steroids) I will always question whether Lagoon in ’95 as the Always the spectator, I was anchored in St. George’s quick, because this If you are a cricket dummy like I was, get knowledgeable a game or a match, a Whether it is the pitch, kick, hit, shot or hoop to win Get ready for the Cricket World Cup. Once the match finished, grandmas, Once the match finished, 452 0311 lionaire Donald Trump has a tournament golf course there? Two more tournament- more Two there? course golf has a tournament Trump Donald lionaire St. Lucia. in are under construction golf courses quality either the to have resort is bound where every the Virgins, football beyond American I was into Although displeased. whining tourists displayed or NFL games Sunday beckoned. the NFL still with party Sundays of serious cruising, third year about my the students school in Grenada, but weekly games at the medical I had watched I had grown Super Bowl festivity I wanted the type of drunken weren’t fanatics. to tourist-mecca I hauled anchor at St. Thomas’s Greenhouse. accustomed to cruisers told of for the game. Passing discover its cable was blanked Bequia, only to and found 200 Bay, St. Lucia. Off I went the Train Station in Rodney a big set-up at with only four viewers. folding chairs in the early worse, they are replayed either To make matters vised cricket matches. match was a sport, to me a cricket at night. Being a slow-moving morning or late bar, cricket (or boatyard, maxi-taxi bus, or a sleeping pill. But in the substitute for is the easiest conversation. football; soccer to Americans) dapper men played, dressed neatly in white, usually sand-fill on St. Thomas where hats. Finding the game as complicated as French verbs, adorned in floppy-brimmed watch, I usually headed to the beach. Finally cricket and too hot for me to sit and at Brits’ method of defining eternity. I learned the rules was explained to me as the in on a rainy Saturday in Nevis. I did not have enough the East Harlem Shelter Bar breakfast with a “complimentary” my pocket to get a Four Seasons’ Sir and learning about “sticky wickets”. In those days, so I was downing greenies were the men whose pictures adorned shop walls Vivian Richards and Gary Sobers every West Indian boy. and who were emulated by Babe Ruth of cricket, Brian Lara, is from Trinidad. could hit a cricket pitch. The almost every international and Caribbean cricket Unimposing Lara has broken him play and the Windies actually win a game against record. I was lucky to see of Spain in 2000. Not fully comprehending the game, Zimbabwe at the Oval in Port money — bleacher seats then cost about US$4. Frigid I didn’t want to spend big in icy five-gallon buckets, made everything under- beers for 90 cents US, hauled has tailgating, cricket has a party in the stands. I expe- standable. Just as the NFL move from the Oval to the Cricket Wicket on Tragarete rienced the “Trini posse lime” daughters started to wine Road. Once the match finished, grandmas, mothers and to calypso. That’s a real “tail gait”! match at their new national Grenada Yacht Club clamored with the opening cricket climbed the hill to the grave- stadium. More than slightly claustrophobic, I instead thousands of locals packing yard close to Maurice Bishop’s monument and watched for months as to which into standing room only. As usual, local rum shops buzzed player should have done what, to help win that match. of the extinct British Empire. year a huge crowd will be arriving from the far reaches the islands. There will The Caribbean is holding the Cricket World Cup throughout the talk if you want to imbibe be parties everywhere, and you have to learn to talk on the lanes, but in the fields. with the revelers and realize that bowlers aren’t only C. The semi-finals are at St. On April 12th, Grenada hosts the Winner B versus honor of hosting the finals. Lucia on April 25th. On April 28th, Barbados has the and soar from there — seats The price of tickets to the semi-finals start at US$300 I just hope there are enough for the finals are listed on the Internet at over US$800! their own accommodations hotel rooms, but cruisers have the luxury of bringing Cricket Cup specials. with them, and several yacht charter companies are offering a serious party, and if medal or a trophy, Caribbean sports always revolve around you speak sports you’re in. ) 758 ( Fax: z

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Conversations, When was the last time you played a sport other than “who can consume the When was the last time you before we visit. We learn of the natural won- A lot of us read about the islands Dominican Republic had In the mid-Eighties, Luperon on the north coast of the Puerto Rico the year fol- Weathering the hurricane season on the south side of Verde or San Pedro If you can’t see the Series in PR, try the DR around Laguna for Havana, try speak- If you aren’t truly competent in Spanish and are headed know the dates of cham- Every nationality has its own internal sports clock to throughout the islands, Golf is a good topic, and Tiger Woods translates easily

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia the Cricket Cup the Cricket

Caribbean Sports for Cruisers: for Cruisers: Sports Caribbean Connections and Connections most cashews”? What do we cruisers do for exercise besides bench press a few cock- most cashews”? What do we or labor our jaws on the morning net? Card games tails at sundown every evening, sailing or windsurfing does. (Pool, billiards or snooker don’t count, but competitive walking around a table.) Most boats have snorkeling also count because you are to scrub the waterline, when’s the last time you actually gear, but other than going got the required canvas sports shoes, shorts, jerseys and went for a swim? We’ve all with a volleyball, a baseball, a basketball or either hats, but is your vessel equipped have a handy tennis racquet for cool mornings, while type of football? A few yachts we sets of irons and woods. The universal claim is even fewer stow slightly rusty natural wonders of the islands, yet islanders are very cruisers are spectators to the competitive in sports. local cuisine and beverages ders, the flora, the animals and birds, and most try the stick to our version of sports, to really understand and mingle with the locals. Yet we the sports connections as an and they stick to theirs. How hard is it to get a grip on easy common denominator? we satisfied all the hurdles of one lone dock with a half a dozen rusting hulls. Once Presidentes”, the local kids clearing in and were satisfying our thirst with “muy fria caps. A few cold ones later, took to our New York Yankee and Pittsburgh Pirate ball with others at the bar as we were bantering in broken Spanish with partial English a bottle of Brugal we realized to who were the best baseball players. After sharing Dominican Republic. that both Babe Ruth and Ty Cobb had been born in the fever. It seemed every lowing dramatic Hugo rejuvenated my dormant baseball league player. The Alomar Puerto Rican was either a friend or a relative of a major extraordinary pros, are from family, Sandy Senior, Sandy Junior, and Roberto, all is from Carolina. Puerto Salinas. Roberto Clemente, the Hall of Fame right fielder, Rico was a great place to watch the World Series. Martinez hail. Check out the de Macorís, from whence Sammy Sosa and Pedro players. Nearby, differently Stadium Milwaukee built in Puerto Plata to cultivate aspiring teens cultivate sugarcane. stopped quality players from ing baseball. The USA’s long-standing embargo has not millionaire idols. The great emigrating, transforming from socialists to capitalistic along with Luis Tiant, Tony twin Canesco brothers, Jose and Ozzie, are Cuban, Perez, and Bert Campaneris. at the Frangipani and try- pionships. During the ’98 season I was in Bequia drinking the NBA Championships. The ing to locate a TV with cable to see the sixth game of of Hamilton. It was a rainy bartender recommended a small rum shop in the village Michael Jordan sink his last night and I straggled into the pub just in time to see shrieked with joy as the jumper as the Chicago Bulls beat the Utah Jazz. Everyone wonder how many tall men world’s best-known hoopster was the hero again. I often a basketball, yet given the in the Eastern Caribbean islands have never touched Croix’s Tim Duncan, the star chance could they have played professionally, like St. of San Antonio’s NBA championship team. golfer from the although Stephen Ames of Trinidad is the only big money-winning on most islands. Isn’t it amaz- Caribbean. Those rusty clubs and woods can be used but about a decade later bil- ing that parched Canouan only got electricity in 1994, MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 Carenantilles DockyardLEMARIN A&C YACHTBROKERS Your CaribbeanMarineFleaMarket LAUNDRY DIAKA•LEMARINMARTINIQUE S CHIP-OA SE Port deplaisanceduMARIN Voiles Assistance • Doityourselflaundryfor7/8kg=6.00 • Pickupanddeliveryfrom7KginLeMarin&SainteAnne • OpenMondaytoSaturday Dutch –English –French Germanspoken Close toMarinaBas-du-Fort-Pointe àPitre E-mail: [email protected] Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) Open MondaytoFriday8-12am2-6pm - Breakfast(Coffee,Croissants)FishingItems www.acyachtbrokers.com rw'ld tforyou-7kg=11.00 or we'lldoit

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I pto up I C C E E E E S S them withpicturesinthePostOffice! hats andlargesunglasses.Ahhh,soIcan’tcompare who arrives.Mosttimes,theirfacesarehiddenby pictures they’vesentdon’tresembletheactualperson getting moresobytheminute).Sometimeseven phone calls,thepersonwhoarrivesisastranger(and had amnesiawhenitconcernedthatexperience. to havebeenonnumerousoffshorepassages.Most ence onmanycruisingboatsover40feet,andclaimed men I’vehadonboardhaveclaimedpreviousexperi- capable, experiencedcrewyoucouldfind.Mostofthe home, onewhohasassuredyouthatheisthemost with hurricaneseasonrapidlyapproaching. ly leftaloneonmy47-footboatintheVirginIslands were beating intothewindand wavesandIcouldhear felt themotionof boatchangeandrealizedwe down. Aboutanhour later(itseemedlikeminutes),I nap timeformeand Ipassedoutassoonlaid emphasis —noproblem, don’tmakechanges.Okay, degrees fromtherhumb line.Istressedthiswithgreat sail, itdidn’tmattertomethatwewere offafew rest andsincethiswasthemostcomfortable pointof getting enoughsleepoffwatchandIreally neededto fall. Iexplainedthatwastiredsince had notbeen was offtherhumblineIhadsetforanarbitrary land- through, andIexplainedinexcruciating detailthatI after aroughnightduetotropical wave passing wind wouldletmepointto.Itwasabout the thirdday, where intheislandchain,endingup wherever the did theforesailsmyself. cise. Anyway,Ifinallygaveupwiththefrustrationand I shouldhavehadhimwinch,butconsidereditexer- while theotherpersonwinchesinonother.Yeah, one line(maybeIshouldsayrope,inhisvocabulary) couldn’t gettheconceptofrollerfurling.Youletouton machinery ontheboat.Forsomereason,hejust having drinksandmunchiesintheircockpit. off. Whatatreatforthegroupanchoredinfrontofus and liftedthebackofhisswimtrunksinordertodry faced thesternofboatwithhisbacktowind after everydip.Strange.SoIwatchedonedaywhilehe about aweek,Inoticedhewasheadingforthebow when wewenttoacruisergathering. the monthhewasaboard,exceptforrareoccasion wearing oneshirtandpairofswimtrunksduring about sixmonths,eventhoughIonlyrememberhim it getsbetter—surecan’tgetmuchworse. didn’t getseasick.Thosebandsmustwork. around, untilweenteredthenextharbor.Atleasthe Caribbean, hedidnotsituponce,neverlooked — Ithoughthelookedabitpale.Onhisfirsttripinthe seasickness, onearmthrownoverhisface.Hmmmmm the cockpitwithhiscutelittlewristbandstoprevent comfy —andso’she,sackedoutintheshadypartof knots, beautifulconditions,windonthebeam.I’m help either.Finally,we’recookingalongaboutseven No helpeither.Iputouttheforesail—noproblem, cockpit andproceedtoputstaysailout—noproblem. the mainsailup—noproblem.ThenIgobackto told himtopointtheboatintowindsoIcouldput talking tomotorboatpeoplelivingatdocks. boat wouldcertainlyhaveairconditioning!Oops,hewas foot boat;allhisfriendshadassuredhimthata47-foot He wasshockedtofindsuch“primitive”livingona47- ly bendoverandcouldn’tkeepupwithmywalkingpace. ured hewouldbeingreatshape,right?Hecouldhard- he wasmyfourthorfifthchoice. air conditioner!Iwasniceenoughnottoinformhim every day,diveandtheyhaveagiantwatermakerAND ran intheBahamaswheretheygotoanewplace n’t thevacationhewanted—catama- no senseofhumor;Ifiguredit’sgottagetbetter.... — goodthingItoldhimtopacklight.Nopersonality, A Even afterseveralweeksormonthsofe-mailsand Imagine acompletestrangerinvadingyourlifeand We lefttheVirginstodoastraightshot tosome- This guyhadtroublewithaverycomplexpieceof He wouldgoswimmingeveryafternoonandafter The secondguyarrivedwithenoughluggagefor So, myfirstcrewlastedthreedays.Gee,Isurehope First tripwasashortbetweenislands,luckily.I This guywasaPEteacher—physicaleducation.Ifig- Second day,atlunch,heinformsmethatthiswas- The firstguyarrivedwithTHREEdufflebagsofstuff Adventures inChoosing crew tohelpwithpassages,sinceIwasabrupt- thought itwasanecessity)toattemptfind bout threeyearsago,Ihadtheopportunity(I Cruising Crew the bladeisstillthere, itshouldn’tbeaproblem. inch oneachsideof theblade,butsinceshapeof bad. Okay,sohowthick arethey?Oh,onlyaboutan nice growth.Hecomes backupandsaysthey’renot down there;I’vebeen sittingtherelongenoughfora and whackthebarnaclesoffprop.I knowthey’re red flag.Inpreparationforatrip,Iaskedhim togodown it lapsesinceheneverusedit.Thatshould havebeenthe but (justincaseIdecidetocheck)hetells me thathelet real quickbeforesomeoneelsegotit. the Virgins.Isuggestedhebetterjustgo buy thatboat Florida becausehewashelpingmetake myboatto because hewasmissingagooddeal on aboatin better ofhimandhetoldmethat wasupset to learnaboutcruising.Atthatpoint,his egogotthe others, andremindedhimthatheclaimedwanted told himabouttheseproblems,aswellsomeofthe been hangingeasilywithjusttheweightofchain. goodness itwassuchacalmnightandtheboathad flukes ofmyBrucewerepointingupatme!Thank went tolookattheanchorandmyamazement, morning decidedtogoforaswim.Justexercise,I such acalm,peacefulnightthatIsleptwellandinthe the anchorrodeandtoldmeitwasallburied.It could seeit.Hecamebackfromthetriptoendof in; thewaterwassoclearandshallowIsurehe I askedhimtochecktheanchorbesureitwasdug a calmlittleharborjustintimetotakequickswim. nately turnedouttobeamotortrip.Weanchoredin they shouldgoontheoutsideofthattoo. grabs thecourtesyflaghalyard,shakesit,andasksif standing thereattheshrouds,frowningandthen them andputOUTSIDEtheshrouds.He’s Okay, noproblem,butIsuggesthemaywanttoredo bring thembacktotheblocksandintocockpit. the jibsheetsfrombowwheretheywerecoiledand exactly what’sinthehead. boat andpointedatthewatertoldhimthat’s connected tothebilge?Ilookedoversideof claims thewaterisALLBLACKandoily.Ishead the head.Onemorninghecomesoutofheadand were atadock—exceptforthebizarrequestionabout I candealwiththeinexperience.Noproblemwhilewe and someonewiththewillingnesstodoitright.Great; be agreatteacherbecauseI’dbeencruisingforyears. told mehewaseagertolearnallaboutcruisingandI’d telling himaboutsomeoftheothercrewI’dhad.He spent monthse-mailingthisguyandphoninghim since hewantstodothatwhensellshishouse.I other end.Heclaimshewantstolearnaboutcruising ence atit,sohe’sgottaknowthepointyendfrom he’s aracer,bigdeal.Butgot30yearsofexperi- Venezuela, Icarefullypickthenextcrewguy.Okay,so by myself. alone ontheboatanddonextcoupleofpassages the nextharborandIdecidetospendafewmonths look yellow….” and thencomesbacksitsdown.“Gee,itdoesn’t of thecockpit,walksovertotransom,looksdown mean forhimtopeeonmyfiberglass,hegetsupout way he’sclearingit.WhenItoldhimthatdidn’t som. Theboathasareversetransomandthereisno notice he’sgoingatthegateinmiddleoftran- ly. Ididn’tthinkanythingofitbutadayorsolater, as itwasn’tacrowdedanchorage,anddodiscreet- wanted topeeoffthedeck.Isaiddidn’tcareaslong ably whathewantedanyway. sleep soItoldhimhewasoffwatch,whichprob- shrug. Okay,toomuchangryadrenalineformeto remember? Notmuchanswer,justanonchalant No changes,don’tcareaboutbeingontarget— he rememberedourdiscussionjustashorthourago. where thatpersonwasatthenextport,Iaskedhimif overboard anditwouldbelotsoftroubleexplaining the rhumblineagain!”Sinceit’sillegaltotosscrew broad smileonhisfaceandsaid.“Look!We’reright cockpit andaskedifconditionschanged.Hehada the watercrashingondeck.Istaggeredupinto Next guy—yes,Idoitagainhasacaptain’s license, After wewereanchoredatthenextdestination,I We wentonashortdaypassage,whichunfortu- Time togettheboatreadygo,Iaskedhimtake I thinkreallyhavesomeonecomingwithpotential When I’mreadytogobacktheVirginsagainfrom Time forabreakmeafterhegetsofftheboatat At thenextanchorage,heaskedifIminded by BettyKarl —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 PM St. Lucia VHF CH68 CH68 VHF Daily – 10:30 Phone (784) 458-3458 The Flamboyant Hotel AM 458-3758 AM lunch and dinner We serve breakfast, ) 784 The Flamboyant Hotel -midnight (50% off all drinks) ( PM Tel: (473) 444-4247 in Lower Bay,in Lower Bequia OPEN until 3 OR TOBAGO CAYS TOBAGO OR Tel: Pool *** Sports TV *** Admiralty Bay, Bequia Admiralty Bay, • PRIVATE CHARTERS CHARTERS • PRIVATE & 11 Open Daily 6:00 Located at TEL: 1-758-452-8490 / 1-758-713-4205 PM RESTAURANT & BAR Candelight Dinners Monday to Saturday Monday -7 Contact us for information or reservation: PLEASE RESERVE! Fun Sail Tours • DAY SAILING • SUNSET CRUISES SAILING • SUNSET CRUISES • DAY Cocktails *** Relaxation *** Parties *** Information & Reservation: (473) 444-4247 Come and find us amongst the trees! Come and find us amongst the in Grenada for fun and fine food for in Grenada & Shoreline Mini-Market & Shoreline PM Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! Taylor welcome Noelina & Lennox The home of Grenada’s Longest Happy Hour!! Monday: Grenada Buffet & Crab Races Wednesday: Steel Band Music Friday: BBQ Dinner & Extempo Calypsonian A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people. where you can sit and meet A friendly atmosphere 4 BEACHSIDE TERRACE • OFF ISLAND CHARTERS, MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE • OFF ISLAND CHARTERS, Beachside Terrace - your special place special TerraceBeachside - your ★ PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR RESTAURANT PORTHOLE Located directly on the beach at We offer the following tours: EMAIL: or [email protected] [email protected] , 464-2762; , VHF 68 or 771- , 728 2807; Judith “Two S/Y Samadhi S/Y Sanctuary S/Y Hornblower by Frank Pearce It makes me feel better to know that male singlehan- It can be hard enough sharing your home with some- Now that I’ve sold my boat, I don’t have to find crew The third good crew was a man I met in St. Thomas If you are visiting Antigua and have anything you Antigua and have anything If you are visiting Now for the fun part: every year Antigua Yacht Club Now for the fun part: every suppliers, is prepared by The food, donated by local At the after-barbecue auction, you can get rid of For more information on the Foundation visit considerate of my home, helpful with projects and preparations, and interesting company. Obviously, it helps to have friends recommend crew, or get to know them in person to get a good idea of what they would be like on board. ders I have talked to also have had problems getting qualified crew, or get crew who misrepresented their qualifications to get on board. There really is no way to check up on these people; even references can be phony. one for a few weeks, but when that person is a total stranger, it’s worse. When that person is inconsiderate and questions your decisions and ability while showing their own incompetence, it becomes unbearable. I found that it’s less stressful for me to do a trip myself, even if it’s multiple days, than to have someone on board who actually is more trouble than he’s worth. Not to mention the chance that he could be an accident waiting to happen. The old saying “you never know someone until you live with him” is totally true. and I don’t have to do passages by myself. Even so, I will miss my boat. I guess I’ll put in some land time and maybe find someone else to sail with. I think I know how to be a good crewmember. the dock in Trinidad one day. He had just gotten off a boat and wanted to get on another and asked me if he could rent my V berth. We talked quite a while and he seemed like a nice person, interesting to talk to as we compared our cultures. He moved aboard and then decided to help me get the boat ready for passage. He really did help and fixed a few things, but I had to laugh because it seemed that every project he tackled required a hammer. It became a joke that whatever he did, he asked for the hammer first. who was working for a charter company and needed a place to stay. People knew I was alone on the boat and working, so they told him to get in touch with me. He started out by renting my V berth and ended up doing a passage south with me and remains a friend. As with the other two good crew people I found, he was be shy to donate them. Clothing is also welcome, them. Clothing is also be shy to donate toys and of bedding, blankets, sheets, together with course money. of the follow- of use, please contact any think may be ing: Roger Gardner on 9730; Frank or Sue on Maiwenn on us can arrange to come to Cents” on 464-3243. Any of you and collect goods. down at Carlisle Bay. creates “Hawaii” for a weekend March, a small fleet will This year, on Saturday 10th race, in a leisurely style, set sail from Falmouth to In the evening there will be downwind to Carlisle Bay. On Sunday 11th, after a barbecue on the beach. a lunchtime barbecue with Bloody Marys, there will be hulas, leis, a prize for a distinctly Hawaiian flavour: made from coconuts, loudest shirt (mine?), bikinis etcetera. buckets of “Pacific punch”, from its sale go to the AYC volunteers and all proceeds Last year this raised some Amazing Grace Foundation. of the cooks and of EC$6,000 thanks to the efforts whom were TCM Ltd., course the donors, among Horizons Ltd, Baileys Supermarket, Dockside Liquors Supermarket, Island Provisions and Best Cellars. some of those lurking “treasures” from your bilge, and then buy some more, all to the benefit of the Foundation. See you there! www.amazinggracefoundation.org. when she and others. Amazing Grace in an Amazing Cause Amazing in an Most had amnesia when it concerned that experience Most had amnesia when it concerned

Most claimed to have been on numerous offshore passages. Most claimed to have been on numerous Near misses, as they would say at an airport…. I got a very nice e-mail from a man from Russia. I did have three guys who turned out to be good The next good guy I had on board wandered down This man convinced me that I should not be getting Many of you have seen the Windjammer Barefoot have seen the Windjammer Many of you Riding a bus from English Harbour to St. Johns, you Riding a bus from English Harbour Antigua recognises the The marine community in The home can use many things that the yachtsman Join Antigua s Marine Community Marine Antigua s Join Somewhere among these guys was a man who claimed he lived on a boat. His boat was a ketch, but then he said that ketch over there was nice. Did he mean that yawl over there, the blue one? He came down before a passage and never got to leave the dock. I said that I really need- ed to change the bow dock lines and got up to do it. While I was doing what needed to be done, he sat in the cockpit with his drink and watched. After I had finished and sat down, he proceeded to tell me how I should have done it. When I asked him if he had a visa to go to a US terri- tory, he claimed he had papers from the UN and all he had to do was request asylum when he reached US territory. No problem. Okay, but not on my boat. crew, even though one didn’t have much sailing expe- rience. It’s interesting to note that these guys did NOT come from the internet. One was a man who could only stay a short while, unfortunately. He was recom- mended by cruiser friends I had known for years. never used the internet for crew again. He was the last crew I had on the boat before I did the passage from Margarita to St. Thomas solo, all the while thinking I was very lucky he was not aboard. —Continued from previous page Sure, I believe that one! I convince him that the boat is not moving until the prop is clean and that’s a crew chore. He borrows a Brownie machine from a friend of mine and spends forever chopping off those little barnies. Later, he’s looking at the chart and asks a simple ques- tion: “How many miles between 62 degrees and 63 degrees?” Okay, maybe he forgot the captain’s course. crew from the internet. It took me a week to get him off the boat due to numerous problems and a complete lack of consideration and respect. Since he kept telling me stories about why he couldn’t get a ticket home, I was just about to buy him a ticket to the cheapest place I could find just to get him off my crew list. It was very uncomfortable (not to mention counterpro- ductive and aggravating) having him on the boat and I Cruises stately mothership Cruises stately may see on your right-hand side on the All Saints Road, may see on your right-hand West Indian house a white painted, cheerful looking Foundation”. It could be with the sign “Amazing Grace perhaps, but the cheerful- taken for a nursery school of the hardship within, ness of the exterior belies some the only home, to about as it is a home, in some cases adults who are all severely ten Antiguan children and walk or talk and have been handicapped. Some cannot The Foundation runs abandoned by their parents. and the Antiguan entirely on voluntary contributions as watermelons, are paid staff, who have hearts as big much more. a nominal amount but deserve example, at the end of needs of the Foundation. For this year, various items the Charter Yacht Meeting variety show were auc- associated with the Follies new commercial washing tioned and as a result two been purchased. Various machines for the home have a share of their “tips” charterboat crews have pledged to the Foundation. Thank you so much, crews of Sherakhan, Talitha G, Fleurtje calls into the islands. Well, this is not about her, it’s islands. Well, this is not about calls into the Antigua — a Grace Foundation in about the Amazing matter. totally different may discard. Should you be updating your First Aid kits, for example, please don’t throw away medicines or bandages; “use by“ dates can be conservative and the staff can determine what is safe to use. Tinned or dry foods could enhance the regular menus, so don’t MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 22) SE 21) SURF 19) SWASH 18) SURVEY 16) STOW 14) SUD 13) SWIRL 12) SUPPORTS 10) SW 9) SLANG 8) SWAGE 6) SLOE 4) STAYS 2) SWINGS ACROSS Crossword Solution clear thewayformoredifficultonesinfuture. itive bycompletingsomeoftheeasiertasksaboardshipto demanding yourattention.Makethesituationintoapos- on yourbusinesscoursearoundthe20th. doing repairsonboard.Theremaybeaspinnakerbroach skies. away totackingtowardsyou,bringingcalmseasandfair ing youroffwatchhavingfunwithfriendsandfamily. bright andcheerfulforyou.Makethemostofitbyspend- or cruisingpals. to improveyourpersonallifeandrelationshipswithcrew plishment. on thebulwarkswilldowondersforyoursenseofaccom- towards improvingconditionsonboard.Atouchofpaint there couldbesomebadnewsaroundthe16th. cause problemsforyouinyourlovelife.Reefdown— course thismonth.Youwillhavehappysailingattime. up anycorrespondenceorbusinessleftundone. ing thismonth.Makethemostofaspectbyclearing you’ve beenputtingoffforsolong. best advantageonboardbyattackingthatboatproject This couldhaveanegativeeffectonyourbusinessplans. sonal levelasitcouldturnintocomplicationsafterthe18th. help inbusiness,butit’sbestnottogettooinvolvedonaper- Don’t getoverwhelmedbytheplethoraofthings You willhavelotsofworkenergysoputittogooduse Romance inyourlifewillchangecoursefromsailing With JupiterinitshomeportofSagittarius,thingswillbe March isagoodmonthforyoutoworkoncreativeways You’ll haveafullcargoofenergyanddrive.Useit The aspectsthatarepositiveforLeothismonthwill Romance willbeofassistanceinkeepingyourbusinesson High tidesofcreativityandcommunicationswillbeflow- You’ll havegale-forceworkenergythismonth.Useitto Romance willtakeatacktowardsroughseasafterthe18th. A femalecrewmemberorboatingbuddywillbeasourceof MARCH 2007 SAGITTARIUS (23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN (22Dec-20Jan) QAIS(21Jan-19Feb) AQUARIUS SCORPIO (24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS (21Apr-21May) GEMINI (22May-21Jun) CANCER (22Jun-23Jul) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) VIRGO (24Aug-23Sep) ARIES (21Mar-20Apr) LIBRA (24Sep-23Oct) 11) SWIM 10) SUDS 9) SWORD 7) SALTY 5) SWEEP 4) SOS 3) SWIGS 1) STEW DOWN 27) SILL 26) SCUD 25) ESS 24) SWEAT 23) SALINE LEO (24Jul-23Aug) 24) SWAB 22) SETS 20) SWIVEL 17) SWEAR 16) SYSTEMS 15) SWIFT 14) SURGE 12) SPLASH Mozart undertheCoconutFronds not thatshe’dstayedpasttheintermission. in afantasticconfluence,anecstasy— but withtheslopesofmyneighbor’sshapeliness, They cameinconcertnotonlywiththepiano, The treefrogshadcomealiveinthewakeofsquall. could Mozartpossiblyhaveimaginedtreefrogs? augmented nowbyachorusoftreefrogs— The piano,tempodiminuetto,regaineditsdominance, leaving theislandwet,secretlyglistening. And then,asquicklyitcame,thesquallleft, only smilingtoacknowledgethedrowningrain. while themusicians,unheard,playedon, and thewindscatteredsheetmusic, Inside, raindrummedonthepavilionroof Coconut frondsrearedback,rousedbythegustingwinds. a fiercewindwasfollowedbydrivingrain. blackening theskyabovePianoConcerto11, As thecloudsdroveoverhillsandacrossbay, a squallcamethrough.Asquall! Then, astheybegantheevening'smainoffering, in theaudiencebesideme. dressed insee-throughfabricandwavingafan as weretheviolinslopesofwoman But thefirsthalfwasamerewarm-up,turn-on, doing Schubert,Chopin,andDebussy. “Pirates fromtheNorwegianFiords,” She wasinagroupofOsloconservatorystudents, “And fromalithesoprano,noless!” I saidtoafriendatintermission. “Imagine LaBohèmeonBequia!” Island Poets — RichardDey MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 Solution on page 36 DOWN 1) Good hot meal at sea 3) Drinks 4) Morse distress signal 5) Long oar 7) Sea dogs are this 9) Pirates fight with this 10) Soap by-product 11) ‘Sink or _____’ 12) Wet accidentally 14) Tidal wave action 15) Fast 16) Methods 17) Curse type 20) A snatchblock can be this 22) Waves come in these 24) Deckhand — Part 6 DOLLY’S ANSWERS: 1) SURROUNDING 2) SEINE 3) TRAWL 4) DREDGES 5) LIFT 6) FALLING 7) ENTANGLING/GILL 8) TRAPS 9) HOOKS/LINES 10) GRAPPLING/WOUNDING 11) HARVESTING

‘Nautical parlumps marooned parlumps Alphabet: S’ Alphabet: ACROSS 2) What a boat at anchor does when tide turns 4) Fore-and-aft standing rigging 6) Gin Fizz ingredient rigging 8) Type of fitting for standing 9) Vulgar talk 10) Compass point (abbr.) 12) Reinforces 13) Whirling motion 14) South, in France 16) Pack for sea 18) Vessel inspection to side 19) Shifting of liquid from side 21) Ride the waves 22) Compass point (abbr.) 23) Seawater is this 24) Haul line as tight as possible 25) Letter of the day 26) Run before a squall 27) Timber at the foot of a dry dock

DEREK BERRY 7 rossword Caribbean Compass 2007 16 ALL DAY! © C A DECENT SIZE FISH HON, HAVEN’T SEEN 24 ruising ruising 22 C 12 3 25 26 11 12 45 89 17 18 ompass

6 13 14 15 27 23 19 20 21 10

C Derek MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2007 © taking hertostableforthenight,whereshewould and whentheboyscameforhershethoughttheywere new buggy.Shehadbeenoutinthepaddockallday error beforehewassatisfied. Matilda betweentheshafts,ittooksometrialand although hethoughtknewhowtoharness Ernie hadonlybeenoutinthebuggyonceand all ofthemtogether.Thistooksomedoing,because pony harness,gotholdofMatildaandbegantoput raced totheshed,pulledoutbuggyand minute hisbackdisappearedoverthehill,they to goandplaydominoeswithhisfriendsthe new buggy. and Trevorcouldn’twaittogettheirhandsonthe and pronouncedthatitwasprettywellperfect.Ernie buggy. HehadtakenMatildaandErnieforatestrun when UncleSollyhadfinishedmakinghiswonderful struts. Thewholethingwaspaintedadignifiedblack. the sunandrainhehadconstructedaroofonmetal pressed theleversawayfromyou.Asprotection were sopositionedoneithersideoftheseatthatyou the brakesonbackwheelsandbrakelevers and abackrestforevengreatercomfort.Hehadkept buggy ontopofthiswithapaddedcushiontosit good piecesoftimber.Hehadthenbuiltatwo-seater the wheelsandjoinedframestogetherwithtwo hold oftwooldbicycleframes,putnewrubbertireson Uncle Sollyhadbuiltabuggy! coral roadseversincetheycouldwalkbutthisyear, let hischildrenrideMatildainagentlewalkoverthe a sturdy,matureoldgirlgoingonten.UncleSollyhad Matilda theponywasasoldNyna;thatis,she chestnut cow,twoblack-and-whitegoatsandapony. from SweetBottomwhereUncleSollykeptamotherly crete houseperchedoncoralrockupandoverthehill the Atlanticsideofisland. THE BUGGYRIDE Matilda wasn’ttoopleasedtobeharnessedthe They hungaboutthehousewaitingforUncleSolly So herewasTrevorinBarbadosjustatthetime Always cleverwithhishands,UncleSollyhadgot Trevor lovedstayingwithhiscousininthelittlecon- O going tosurvive. which musthavelessimpactonthe environment ifthefishingindustryis their fishinggeartoincreaseproduction. Nowtheymustdevelopequipment tats. Fishermenhavesofarusednewtechnologies toimprovetheirvesselsand by theyear2048becauseofover-fishing, pollutionanddestructionofhabi- below tohelpyouunscramble theheadingsandidentifyall twelve. (FAO) classifiesfishing gearin12differentcategories.Use the definitionsgiven how thegearisused. TheUnitedNationsFoodandAgriculture Organization cle onebigpuzzle! problem apparentlyomittedsomeofthe symbols. Solet’smakethismonth’sarti- DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS The word A reportinthejournal Apologies areduetothosereaderswho tried lastmonth’swordpuzzle.Afont and hisUncleSollylivedinasmalltownon Now Ernie,hissisterNyna,AuntJosefina ver inBarbados,TrevorhadacousinErnie. He gear l lo! M means thetoolsused tocatchfish.Afishing y n a

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m e no choiceinthematter. the boysweredeterminedandpoorMatildareallyhad Matilda stampedherlittlefootandjerkedheadbut et ofdeliciousoatssoakedinwatertosoftenit. be givenabigbundleoffreshly-cutgrassandbuck- her footonthepavedsurface,offshewentintoarat- face. OncearoundthebendinroadandMatildaput would letherheadgowhentheyreachedthepavedsur- coral roadbecauseherdelicatefeetwereunshod.He them. HeallowedMatildatowalkslowlyonthecrushed and Matildacouldhurtherselfifshesteppedintooneof road andthecliffedgethereweremanyhiddenhollows munch atthetufts,butErnieknewthatbetween grassy verge. and pulledthepony’sheadbackfromtough He thenleapedupontotheseatbesidehiscousin cliff wheretheAtlanticwaveshissedandthundered. onto thecoralroadthatranalongedgeof buggy andErniewalkedMatildaoutoftheyard the reins.

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s e ‘Mummy, describes a out nextmonth! 2) 1) So, whichofthesemethods is/arecausingproblemsforglobal fishstocks?Find 4) 3) 10) 9) 8) 5) 11) 7) 6) 12) Thelastcategoryis to captureanyfishwhichswimintothem. target individualfish. of aschoolfishtocatchthem. WRALT FLIT GLAFLIN SPRAT SONIDRUGRUN OSHKO INSEE GERSDED. by thefirst11methods,forexample,gathering byhand(withorwithoutdiving equipment), poisons,explosives,trainedanimals andelectricalfishing. LAGGINNENT and beneathaschooloffish. towards shoreortoaboat. They canbeusedbyindividualsortowed atlengthfromaboat. caught inside. dwelling species,especiallyshellfish. or byamechanicaldeviceonboat. vertically inthewatertotrapfishastheyswimalong. PLANGGRIP/INOWDUNG SHIVERGANT nets. Thesenetswiththeircatchcanberaisedoutofthewaterbyhand . Fishpotsareleftatseaforsomedays.Fish/lobstersswiminand nets. Thesearelongrectangularnetswhichcanpullaschooloffish nets. Thesearelargenetstowedbehindasingleboatorpairofvessels and gear. Thiscategoryincludescastnetswhichcanbedroppedontop These devicesaredraggedalongtheseafloortocatchbottom- SNELI and machines. Theseusepumpstosuckup theircatch. nets. Theselooklikepurseswhichcanbedrawnuparound . Fishingwiththeseisoneoftheoldestfishingmethods. LIGL MISCELLANEOUS Ernie yelled“Hangon!” down theroad.Thebuggybouncedandrattled She pickedupherfeetandgallopedfullpeltback head forhome. and thenwhenallwassafe,Ernieturnedthepony’s to makesurethattheroadwasclearbehindthem, cane fieldstoarriveinBridgetown.Trevorlookedout along theroadthatwouldeventuallycomeoutof if hislifedependedonit,whichofcourse,itdid. breaking pullandTrevorpushedonhisbrakeleveras junction. Erniepulledbackonthereinswithaneck- to trotrightintothecarsspeedingbothwaysatT- from seeingthemainroadupahead,shewasprepared the junctionbutasthoseannoyingblinkersstoppedher Uncle Solly’sbuggy. Trevor andErniedidn’tcare;theywereproudof that suchanold-fashionedvehiclestillexisted. stare outthebackwindows.Noonecouldbelieve pony cart!” called totheirmothers,“Mummy,Mummy,lookde leaned outthewindows,wavedandlaughed ly gavethepasssignalbyawaveofhishand,children front wasaslow-movingponycart.WhenErniegrand- brakes whenthedriversrealizedthatvehiclein fast clip,onlytostopwithanalarmingscreechingof with themainroad,carsspedupbehindthemata He wantedtogobackhomeSt.Luciainonepiece! jammed onthebrakeshissidewithallmight. the reinsashardhecouldandTrevor,inalarm, any approachingdanger),Erniehadtopullbackon pause, (afterall,theblinkersstoppedherfromseeing straight outintothemiddleofthisroadwithouta much busierroadandastheponywantedtomove lazed backinhisseatenjoyingitall. Matilda droopedherheadandploddedupward.Trevor climb soErniejumpedoutandhelpedpullthecartas so-polite dogsbarkedatthemcrossly. telling aliebyturninghisheadbackandwaving.Not- buggy. Doesyourfatherknowyou’reout?” the boyssternly. ly. Theboyswavedback.Parentsstoodandlookedat children cameoutoftheirdoorsandwavedpleasant- houses openeduponeithersideoftheroad.Little back onthereinsandmadeponytrot. tling gallop.ThisgaveErniequiteastartandhepulled nets. Theseformwallsofnettingwhichhang Aahh —thiswasjustwhatMatildawaitingfor! Ernie waitedatthejunctionwhilecarsraced Matilda, nowonthestraight,pavedroad,trottedto Adults gawkedastheydroveby,headsturningto Now thattheroadwasapproachingjunction The roadmadeaperfectright-angledbendonto After ashortplateauintheroad,ittookverysteep But Erniehadwalkedtheponyonandheescaped Mr. Hodgefrowned.“Youboysbecarefulwiththat “Hello Mr.Hodge!”calledErniepolitely. Soon theroadbegantoclimbhillandvillage gears. Theseincludeharpoonsandspears which and includesanythingnotcovered — Answersonpage37 —Continued onnextpage —Continued MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 BETA staff monitors MARINE TOHATSU TOHATSU Tel: (473) 444 4449 Tel: Fax: (473) 444 2090 facilities, garbage disposal & ice. slip rental. • Fuel, gas, shower & toilet • Long term & short term and fax facilities. • Telephone • Internet Access. • Security. • Duty Free Fuel. • Pool, tennis court & bar. island tour services. and • Taxi Marina’s Martin’s VHF radio channels 16 & 71, and are always available to assist boaters in docking & leaving the marina, as well as to help in locat- ing appropriate services as needed. FOR RENT High pressure cleaners 150/250bars Electrical tools Diverse hand tools Vacuum cleaner for water Scaffolding Email: [email protected] [email protected] (filters, impellers, belts) Phone: +590 590 907 137 +590 590 Phone: 590 908 651 Fax: +590 E-mail: a Pitre 97110 Marina Point F.W.I. Guadeloupe SALES - REPAIRS - MAINTENTENANCE SALES - REPAIRS 110/220 v (50 Hz) & water at each slip. accommodating boats up to 200 ft. slips, as well as 32 moorings. MARTIN’S MARINA OFFERS: MARTIN’S • High capacity electrical services • 20 ft of draft off the deepest dock. • 53 slip concrete marina • 42 stern-to-slips & 11 alongside Filtration FLEETGUARD Anodes,Shaft bearings Electric parts, batteries Primers and Antifouling International Various lubricants GOODS Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu Basic spare parts Martin’s , situated on the GRENADA is considered one of the south coast of Grenada, is one of the finest marinas. Located Caribbean’s outside of the hurricane belt in the well protected and sheltered waters of Mount Hartman Bay, Marina in the Caribbean. safest marina’s All this is located conveniently close to the entertainment and shopping centers, as well as the International Airport. Martin’s Marina Martin’s SERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop MARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) - HAUL OUT - 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE - 24h BREAKDOWN MAKES) - HAUL OUT (ALL MARINE MECHANICS LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS BOAT IN SKILLED LEAVE YOUR Subscribe See how at: Compass on-line! to www.caribbeancompass.com “Oh God, de road ending!” hollered Trevor. It was the Trevor. It was hollered de road ending!” “Oh God, Ernie held began its steep descent and Now the road Press hard Ernie. “Use your feet! “Trevor!” screamed leaned back against Trevor let go of the brake lever; doorways and screamed, Children ran out of their fear, their whole bodies At last, their lips white with THE END right-angled corner. But Matilda saw the cautionary But Matilda corner. right-angled and just in time white chevrons with its black board tip- side almost on the wrong the corner she clipped their the boys from and throwing buggy over ping the the cor- no car was coming around seats. Fortunately would have been goners! ner or they all pressed his as hard as he could and on to the reins his brake the brake. Trevor grabbed foot forward on jumped hands and pushed. The buggy lever with both over their the struts holding the roof and bucked and and shook. heads creaked with your feet!” feet put all his strength the backboard and using his The brakes sang a high, into stopping the buggy. by baritone groans unrelenting soprano interrupted enough to wake the dead, and tenor screeches. It was did Matilda. She skidded but the buggy slowed and so into a sliding walk. into an uneven trot and then and fled inside. Angry “Mummy look de devil coming!” You boys need licks parents shouted, “Stop de ruckus! dogs raced out on to the for so!” Small, quarrelsome little feet. Big, angry dogs road and nipped at Matilda’s choking themselves to get yanked at their chains, half the little fawn pony. at the black monster behind into the highest branch- Chickens flew squawking up gentle brown cows looked es of the nearest trees. The goats sneered and up in alarm. Black-and-white But Ernie and Trevor had laughed into their beards. to answer these protests. no breath left in their bodies aching with the jolts riding up into the buggy from the rough road, the boys and the buggy and Matilda made it down to the coral road. Matilda turned the corner into the homestretch and walked delicately on the sharp crushed coral to home where the fresh green grass was waiting for her, topped by the bucket of deli- cious oats. Ernie and Trevor never said a word as Matilda stepped through Uncle Solly’s gate, but they looked at each other to make sure they really were still alive just as the blood red sun sank down behind the peaceful hills. —Continued page from previous MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 Petite Martinique: Union: Mayreau: Canouan: Bequia: Allegro Resort,RhythmsofBlues,TheGalleryBoutique St. Martin/St.Maarten: Antigua: Carriacou: Grenada: Port dePlaisance97290,LeMarin email: [email protected] Island ArtofTheYodaGuy,PineappleBeach, Presents, Tikal,IslandWaterWorld & SafetyEquipment All theSupplies, Fidel Productions ArtFabrik, Boat&Harbours,Imagine, Gallerie Tourquoise,SVScaramouche Salt WhistleBayResort Tamarind BeachHotel Local Color,Solana’s Arch HReid&CoLtd,HarmonyHall, for yourBoat Fax: +596748539 Tel: +596748755 Chandlery Millenium Connection Open 7/7 Planet Paradise if youbringthisad! ARC participants

10% rebatefor MARTINIQUE 4050-9873-1. £30. cover, 270pages,colorphotosthroughout.ISBN978-1- Regine Hodiege.MacmillanCaribbean©2006.Hard Islands ty awayfromthebanalandclichés.” Michael Wissing,alsoGerman,“wantedtoshowreali- band abouttheplacetheylove.Theircollaborator illustrate whatstandsoutmosttoherandhus- book cameaboutasapersonaljourney,wantingto a partofsuchsociety.” adds toourfeelingofprivilegeatbeingablebecome ple herebeinghappywiththelivestheylead.This Perhaps thepaceoflifehasledto…asensepeo- though atleastoneotherCaribbeancountrytodoso. results. Itisnotsoeasytogethereandyoumustpass night clubsandtheseedinesscrimethatoften tourism withitspervasiveinfrastructureofhighrises, nomic importanceoftourists,nohigh-turnover are noMcDonaldsorHiltons,and,despitetheeco- loves VirginGordaforwhatitis—andisn’t:“There band hassetupavillarentalbusinessontheisland, life photographerforover20years. book. MichaelWissinghasbeenaself-employedstill- IMAGES Caribbean Dreams:VirginGorda,British The photosareaneclecticcollectionofland-,sea- She explainsintheprefacethatideaforthis Writer RegineHodeige,aGermanwhowithherhus- The picturestellthestoryinthis“coffeetable”style , photographsbyMichaelWissing,text www.macmillan-caribbean.com. Caribbean danceisabout,youhaven’tseenthisbook. main focus,theirfacesoftenstealtheshow. assumption thatthedancers’bodieswouldbe trained subjects.Althoughitwouldbeanatural visual tourdeforceworthyofhertalentedandwell- grainy, somehigh-contrast,sepia-toned—a of ways.Someimagesaresharp,someblurred, to capturethemotion,whichDaSilvadoesinavariety ture oftheisland. ing auniqueinsightintothehighlyevolveddancecul- Jamaica’s mostprestigiousdancecompanies,provid- photographer MonicaDaSilvatookwithfiveof record ofa20-yearjourneythatself-taughtJamaican motion. perpetual rhythmhasalwaysputbodiesherein dancing —fromquadrilletolimbo“duttywine”, color photosthroughout.ISBN1-4050-7400-0.£19.95. ©2006. Hardcover,224pages.Black-and-whiteand forward byRexNettleford.MacmillanCaribbean Caribbean islandanditsinhabitants. we aregivenanintriguinglyoffbeatviewofa their respectiverecipesintheappendix.Butotherwise bar menu;theywouldhavebeenbetterplacedwith of cocktailsseemtobeincongruousescapeesfroma still-lifes featuringlocalfood.Thenumerousportraits and skyscapes,interiors,portraits,foundobjects, These booksareavailableatbookstoresorfrom If you’retemptedtothinkthat“wining”isall A dancerismobile,aphotographstatic.Theart When wethinkofCaribbeanculture Seasons ofDance Seasons ofDance , photographsbyMonicaDaSilva, is abeautifullyillustrated MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 was destroyed Abundance twice) into 11 chapters in , after his beloved schooner), , in 1930, bound for Hawaii. On bound for , in 1930, . , Lou’s fourth schooner, was sunk , Lou’s fourth schooner, was Sea Fox Sea Fox Tusitala , sank when her seams opened with a her seams opened with , sank when Abundance For all the years in between, author Russell For all the years in between, Wawaloam One young officer grabbed his crotch and said, “What did he say?” Lou asked. “Your balls are made of brass!” The captain politely refused the tow, but he Sailing romantics may be dismayed to find Sailing romantics may be which he and Pat cruised up and down the east which he and Pat cruised up Nova Scotia, visiting coast from the Bahamas to was 75. family and friends, until he wit, and thorough combines compassion, countless adven- research into his telling of Lou’s close encoun- tures of a lifetime at sea, including union toughs, and ters with hurricanes, the law, accompany the local hoods. Many photographs read. text to make this a compelling allowed Lou to by a German U-boat. The captain sub while his crew come on board the surfaced stayed afloat in two dories; Lou had the presence of mind to ask for a tow closer to port! “Er hat Messingtestikel,” and they all laughed. radioed the missing ship’s position to increase their chance of rescue. He also gave Lou some flares, which saved them on their sixth night at sea. All hands were rescued as well as Butch, Lou’s pet German shepherd, by an Irish freighter. On the first try, the crewman hauling Butch over the ship’s rail cried, “Oh my Lord Jesus, ’tis a great beast,” and dropped him back into the sea. Lou shouted up, “You dumb sono- fabitch, haul this dog aboard or I’ll personally come up there and beat the living crap out of sensibly separates Lou’s ten vessels (he owned Lou’s ten vessels (he sensibly separates 115-foot chronological order. boats in the ’60s, that Lou turned towards power to the Bahamas, but hauling freight from Miami a 62-foot motorsailer he ended up by retiring on (renamed Adams After the war, Lou tried to contact the German skip- Reading Lou Kenedy’s life story, one truly appreci- On her second voyage On her second you. This dog’s a survivor, for Christ’s sake.” They hauled Butch back on board, no worse for wear. per but was told that his U-boat was sunk by the Allies. “I would have liked, after the war, to get togeth- er with him over a couple of beers and compare notes of our adventures,” Lou reflected, years later. ates what captains and able seamen went through in the days of commercial sailing, and how the survivors had to adapt. Lou was the ultimate survivor. He was no saint, but I would have loved to have raised a pint or two with him. hold full of salt, but Lou was never without com- but Lou was never hold full of salt, Joe Russell for very long. Author mand of a vessel on a Jamaican reef and Lou’s second ship, the 500- reef and Lou’s second ship, on a Jamaican ton schooner for 18 dollars a month. He moved on and on moved He a month. dollars for 18 schooner Scotia US to Nova the northeast lumber from hauled before yacht club at a New York as a rigger and worked ship, square-rigged, commercial, on to his first signing the 1,800-ton earned months and for three Lou studied returning, 21. He on the day after he turned his Master’s ticket Hawk for a buddy in a Stutz Black then set off with three-masted to purchase his first Lunenburg schooner, — This Is Lou Kenedy’s Yacht) and Tilky Lou started his sailing career in a rowboat with main At 18 years, the strapping 200-pounder dropped out bought a home in Nova Scotia so that their fast- expanding family could settle down. and jib, at age 11 graduating to a small keeled sloop (he called it at 14, a 25-foot Maine fishing boat. In the summers, Lou and his crew sailed around Block Island, Martha’s Vineyard, as far north as Gloucester, occasionally stealing food from a farmer’s field or liberating lobsters to upgrade their larder, which was described as “pret- ty awful.” of Georgetown University to work on a Chesapeake Voyage of the , by Joe Russell, is one such gem. It BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF BY BOB REVIEW BOOK won every time and was (built in Sweden in 1888). Sea Fox ) were reviewed in these pages, ) were reviewed in these Sea Fox

The Last Schoonerman

The recent passing of 99-year-old Captain The recent passing of 99-year-old …a tightwad, so tight, he squeaked.… frugality, he would As a perfect example of his Lou’s ships often plied the “milk run,” hauling It was in Barbados as well that Lou met and married The Last Schoonerman, The Remarkable The Last Schoonerman, For four years the race featured 15 to 18 entrants, but Niels Thomsen, whose memoirs ( Niels Thomsen, whose memoirs choose the names of ports in which to register his vessels based on the fewest number of stencils he had to buy to paint the city's name on the stern. In the Northeast he used RYE (New York) several times. 'MIAMI' was a favorite because it only took three stencils. If he was forced to register in a port where too many stencils were required, he simply would not bother painting the name on the stern. salted cod or lumber to Barbados and returning with Bajan rum and molasses, then filling the hold with salt from Turks Island. After a scrape with the law in the US, Lou moved briefly to Barbados and established an annual round-the- island schooner race in 1936, which was won by his 115-foot his wife, Pat, the beautiful socialite daughter of a Scottish doctor. The wedding was frowned upon by both sets of parents; Lou’s mother didn't attend the wedding, thinking Pat was black, and Pat’s parents were not thrilled at the thought of a rough-and-tumble sea captain for their daughter, not realizing that Lou’s family was also socially prominent in Stamford, Connecticut. It was a match that endured tough times as well as good times, as Pat was salty enough to work as cook on several of Lou’s ships, until the couple The Nautical Publishing Company, paperback, The Nautical Publishing Company, illustrations. 284 pages, with photos and Forest Dream of the men who lived reminds us that the stories in the 1920s and worked on cargo schooners their country in the and ’30s and who served increasingly Second World War are becoming rare. Lou Kenedy (1910- documents the life of Captain with a penchant 1991), a seafaring John Wayne quick fists. A for hard work, and, if necessary, was also: generous family man, Lou even immortalized by a calypso, “The Sea Fox beat up the Mona Marie.” Life of Captain Lou Kenedy a Lifetime at Sea a Lifetime Adventures of of Adventures MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 Credit Cards Wir sprechenDeutsch Opposite theMarket welcome! Daily FreshHerbs&Produce

AH PROVISIONING YACHT Imported Cheeses&Pastas and otherGourmetFoods Fax (784)457-3134 Tel (784)458-3625 Fine Wines VHF 68 in Fresh Croissantsdaily Special 8-grainbread Bequia a dinner. till theyarejusttender. Thenyou’lladdeggsandsomecheese andvoila!You’vegot hand, tossthemin a skilletheatedwithbitofbutterorolive oil,andsautéthem veggies. Forthese,you’ll chopuptheweebitsofmeatsand veggiesyouhaveon a frittata?Inmythinking, omeletshavemoreeggs;frittatas have moremeatand/or after CarnivalinTrinidad. after adaysweatinginthetropicsisabout aswelcomeanotherparadetheday veggies. Butifyou’relikethecrewof handy tokeepajarinthefridgejustfor savingthewaterfromcookingmeatsand round themout.Ifyoudon’thavebroth, youcanalwaysusebouilloncubesbutit’s and veggiesinsomebroth,addingspices andwhateverelseyouhaveonhandto enough bitstomakesoup. a sliceofsteak—canbeputinthesame containerinthefreezeruntilyouhave Little dibsanddabsofmeatsveggies —aspoonfulofpeas,halfbakedpotato, three monthsorso.Besuretolabelanddateyourcontainerssotheydon’tgetlost. to usethemthatsoon,justputinthefreezerwheremostfoodswillkeep for batches sotheywillcoolquicklyandusethemwithinafewdays.Ifyouwon’tbeable should berefrigeratedwithintwohoursofcooking.It’sbesttostoreleftoversinsmall dishes, frittatasoromelets,casseroles,frittersandcake,salads,stir-fries. put inthem!Themaincategoriesforusingleftoversincludesoups,stews,pasta of theseOne-NightStandscouldevenwinprizes—ifwerememberwhat we to thefish.Hmmmm,moneyoverboard? fridge, waitsuntiltheyturnblueandfuzzy,thenfeelsever-so-justifiedfeedingthem boasts thatshehasa“creative”solutionforallherleftovers:putsthemin her the deeprecessesoffridgeorleftoverswecannolongeridentify.Onefriend taste. We’reprobablyallguiltyoffeedingthetrashcanwithleftoversthatgotlost in greens, stalebread,too-dryroastbeef,ormashedpotatoeswithadecidedlyscorched mate: “Arrrrgh,leftoversfordinner? given meal.Ifweservethemthenextday,we’lllikelyalsolistentogroansfrom the such leftoversasit’simpossibletojudgeexactlyhowmuchfoodpreparefor a servings ofalready-preparedmeats,veggies,pastas,salads,etcetera.Everybody has fresh ingredients.Thebiggerleftoverheadacheiswhattodowiththosesingleorhalf it. SowhatwillIcook?“Broccoliplusyogurt”.HowaboutsomeQuiche”? besides that,I’vemadewaytoomuchyogurtandwanttofindwaysusesomeof Dirty Rice”,“LivelyShrimpCasserole,”and“Gerry’sSavoryPilaf.” type in“rice,greenpepper,andchicken,”Iget19differentrecipessuchas:“Cajun Gourmet searching forrecipesthatmatchyouringredients.Forexample,in of recipesintheirdatabases,theseprogramsdothejobnear-instantaneous because itwasmyfirstandismostfamiliar) One Ilikeverymuchis Cooking, JuliaChildHomeCookingwithMasterChefs erized cookbookprogram. sense ofwhatingredientscombinewell.Definitelyabookworthreading. steaming, boiling,poaching,broiling,grilling,braising,etcetera—anddevelopinga most, masteringthevarietyofbasiccookingtechniques—sautéing,frying,baking, our childhoodhome. teaches exactlywhatweshouldhave/wouldhave/couldhavelearnedbeforeleft Techniques EveryCookShouldKnowbyHeart, with whatyouhaveonhandiscalled for meanytime! who wouldknowitfromthefinefareEllenconcoctswiththem?Shecansetaplace And eventhoughthosebitswererefrigeratororphansleftoverfromplannedmeals, with pork,Ramennoodlesbitsandpiecesofmeatsveggies.”Wonderful! known recipes,e.g.chickenfriedrice,blackbeanswith come threetoapackage?)?” per, onecarrot,egg,chickenbreast,porkchop(whydotheyalways cook canbe.Shewrites,“Whatdoyouwithacupofcookedrice,halfgreenpep- tle odds-and-endsorphansthatchallengesourcreativity. like wantedchildren:weknowwhattodowiththem.It’sfindingaroleforthoselit- Saves heatinguptheboat.Generallymoreeconomical,too.Butplannedleftoversare cruisers livebythephilosophyof“cookonce,eattwice.”Savestime.fuel. for beingleftover.Extrahelpingsdo,inthelongrun,cutcookingtime.Infact,many chilies, barbecuedanything,meatloaf,sauces,soups,potsofbeans—allarebetter are examplesof“plannedleftovers.” than asinglebatch,andwe’resuretoputitusewithincoupleofdays.Those got aneasydinnerwhenI’minhurryordon’tfeellikecooking. er. Zappedinthemicrowave,accompaniedbyasaladandsomegarlicbread,we’ve servings leftover,Iwraptheminfoilandpopaplasticbagourtinyfreez- a companymealorthreemealsforthetwoofus. might aswellmakeahugepanfull,enoughforsixlargeservings,thatbeingeither LEFTOVERS So let’stakealookatomeletsandfrittatas. Thedifferencebetweenanomeletand Soups andstewsaretheeasiestleftover answer—justamatteroftossingmeats It’s importanttodealwithleftoverssoonaftertheyarecooked.Tobesafe,food With alittlecreativeexperimentation,leftoverscanturnintofabulousmeals.Some Guess we’veallbeensubjectedatonetimeoranothertosoggybroccoli,limpsalad But sofarwe’vebeentalkingaboutstartingfromscratchwiththoseextrabitsof So, let’ssayI’vegotasmallbunchofbroccolithatreallymustbeusedtodayand, Another usefultoolforselectingrecipestomatchspecificingredientsisacomput- It’s allamatterofhavingourlockersstockedwiththebasicingredientsweuse One cookbookthatIhavefoundparticularlyusefulinfiguringoutwhattocook She thenproceedstotellmeexactlywhatshedoes:“Iusuallyadlibbasedon My friendEllenSanpereoftheyacht Lasagna, likeanumberofotherdishes,justgetsbetterwiththere-heating.Stews, Another doublebatchIalwaysmakeisrice,whichtakesnomoretimeorenergy We don’tmindhavinglasagnatwonightsinarow,butifI’vegotthoseother Making lasagnaseemstodirtyhalfthebowlsinmygalley.SowhileI’matit,I WHACHA GONNADOWITHALLTHOSE… , ifItypein“pork,egg,andrice,”getarecipefor“SubgumRice.”When Master CookDeluxe Williams andSonomaGuidetoGoodCooking,Joyof by MaryHeckrotte Again Camryka Cayenne III How toCookWithoutaBook:Recipesand ?” , thoughmyall-timefavorite(probably written byPamAnderson.Thisauthor , theideaofanicehotbowlsoup Key HomeGourmet is likelyascreativeacruising and dozensmoreareavailable. mojo criollo —Continued onnextpage —Continued . Withthousands , stir-fryveggies Key Home MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 & 14˚33N - 61˚03W DOCK, BAR DOCK, Tel: (+) 596 596 66 05 45 Tel: CUSTOMS CLEARANCE Open 7/7 VHF: 16/68 e-mail: [email protected] RESTAURANT POINTE DU BOUT, MARTINIQUE POINTE DU BOUT, gas station: (+) 596 596 66 17 30 gas station: (+) 596 596 66 • deep water stern-to berth • deep water stern-to • water/ice/laundry • tel+fax+internet • gas station . You might Whatever You’ve Got Whatever . —Continued on next page Spaghetti Pancake Just-For-Tonight-Honey Fried Just-For-Tonight-Honey . Use-Em-Up Pasta Salad ) while fritters, with a thicker batter, tend to cook up more round- tend to cook thicker batter, fritters, with a ) while Second-Hand Seafood Fritters Seafood Second-Hand , or you might follow this tasty-sounding example from Ellen: follow this tasty-sounding , or you might We haven’t even addressed using leftovers for sandwich fillings, tacos and que- We haven’t even addressed using leftovers for sandwich One-Of-A-Kind Soup (or substitute 5 Cups 5 Cups broth (chicken, seafood, vegetable or beef broth and one 16-ounce can of water and 2 bouillon cubes) or 6 ounces of tomato paste tomatoes pork or seafood, or use 1 Cup cooked or raw proteins (chopped chicken, beef, Great Northern) already cooked beans such as pinto, kidney, black or barley) 1 Cup cooked or 1/3 Cup raw grains (rice, pasta, corn, 1 Cup cooked, canned, or raw vegetables from basil, cumin, garlic, 1 teaspoon each of two or three herbs or spices (choose thyme, rosemary, oregano, parsley, etcetera) Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste high heat. Add any raw Bring broth (or tomato sauce) to boil in a large pot over Just-For-Tonight-Honey Fried Rice 2 Tablespoons olive oil or cubes (optional) 1/4 to 1/2 pound cooked or raw meat, cut in thin strips broccoli, eggplant or 2 Cups raw or cooked veggies (onions, green pepper, carrots, whatever you have on hand) 1/4 Cup nuts (optional) 1 can bamboo shoots or water chestnuts (optional) 1 Tablespoon sugar 1 to 2 Tablespoons soy sauce 2 eggs 1 Tablespoon milk 3 Cups cooked rice (more or less) Add any raw meat and Heat oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Dinner Omelet for Two 4 eggs 1/4 Cup milk Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 Tablespoon butter 1 Cup chopped cooked veggies (onions, mushrooms, green peppers, tomatoes, etcetera) 1/2 Cup shredded cheese (Cheddar, Jack, Havarti, etc.) In a small bowl, beat together eggs, milk, salt and pepper. Melt butter in a non- Variable Vegetable Frittata 1 Tablespoon olive oil 1 1/2 Cups cooked or canned vegetables, drained (potatoes, tomatoes, artichokes, corn, etcetera) Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Stir-fries are naturals for leftover meats and veggies, even some fruits and nuts, and veggies, even some fruits naturals for leftover meats Stir-fries are carry-out restaurant is perfect for fried rice — fry Rice left over from the Chinese natural combination. Make either a basic white Pastas and leftovers are another some of the pasta itself left over? Not a problem. Make And what if you end up with Another way to use leftover pasta is described in Cakes and fritters are cousins, too. Both use flour, eggs, and milk to make a bat- milk to make eggs, and Both use flour, cousins, too. and fritters are Cakes sadillas, pizza toppings, muffins, baked potato toppings, dips and spreads. The pos- sadillas, pizza toppings, muffins, baked potato toppings, by our imagination. sibilities for what to do with leftovers are limited only Add cooked proteins, proteins and veggies. Reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes. heat up and return pot to cooked veggies, raw or cooked grains, and spices. Turn Makes 4 servings. boil then reduce heat and simmer another 30 minutes. veggies to skillet and stir- sauté until tender. Remove meat and set aside. Add raw and bamboo shoots or water fry until just crisp-tender. Add cooked veggies, nuts, Heat through. In a small chestnuts; and meats. Sprinkle in sugar and soy sauce. side, making a little hole in bowl, mix eggs and milk. Push veggies and meats to the until set. Add rice and mix all the center of the skillet. Pour egg into hole and cook together, cutting the eggs into small bits. (Alternatively, you can remove the veggies and meats, add a bit more oil to the skillet and cook the egg separately without stir- ring. Flip it once and when it is done, remove it from the pan, roll it up and cut it into strips. Return the meat and veggies to the pan. Stir in the rice and heat through. You can either mix the egg strips in or use them to garnish the top of the entire dish.) Makes 3 or 4 servings. stick skillet over medium-high heat. Pour egg mixture into skillet, reduce heat, and cook until eggs are set. Gently lift edges with a rubber spatula and pull them toward the center so that egg cooks evenly. With the eggs set but the top still shiny, sprin- kle on the veggies and cheese. Fold omelet in half, cover pan, and let cook until cheese melts, usually 1 or 2 minutes. Makes 2 servings. in most any combination. (Well, maybe beets wouldn’t be great!) The good news here wouldn’t be great!) The (Well, maybe beets in most any combination. stir-fry- using fresh meats and vegetables, follow your usual recipes is that you can noodles such as Cooked rice or then adding any cooked ingredients. ing them first, pan and heated added right in the same mein or Ramen can be lo mein, chow of noodles or over a freshly-cooked batch can serve your stir-fry through. Or you no matter how will be totally unique and time, these stir-fry dishes rice. Most of the the same com- you’re not likely to have just be with the creation, satisfied you might below, again. There’s a sample recipe bination ever oil to canola oil) until golden, add a little bit of sautéed in oil (I add a dab of sesame pork loin (or shrimp or chicken) and maybe some green pepper and leftover roasted two any other leftover cooked veggies cut up, and one or peas, onion, garlic, ginger, up in a hole made in the middle of the rice then break beaten eggs (scramble them pepper, soy and serve. I often make enough to freeze and stir in.) Sprinkle with salt, for a third meal. use something store-bought, add cut up leftover veggies, sauce or a tomato sauce or over pasta. Fettuccini, spaghetti, macaroni — most any meats or seafood, and serve cut include any fresh veggies or meats in the mix, just pasta will do. If you want to cubes, sauté them in a bit of butter or olive oil until ten- them into slices, strips, or your cooked leftovers. Got a small piece of cheese der, then dump them in with of each serving. handy? Grate a bit on top pasta right in the sauce and your meal is ready. Thin your sauce first then heat the fettuccini also can be chopped and added to stir-fries noodles like spaghetti and serve nicely as a type of “crust” for pizza or frittata. Just instead of rice. Noodles also the and pack a layer about half an inch thick in add a bit of butter to the noodles pan. Add filling or topping as usual and bake. bottom and sides of a casserole Dessert Pancakes Dessert Rice macaroni, penne, rotini, also experiment with making pasta salads from leftover corkscrews, etc. An example is the ter and then you can add your leftover meats, seafood, veggies, or even fruits. Cakes or even fruits. veggies, meats, seafood, add your leftover then you can ter and skillet (see out in the and sort of spread thinner batter have a —Continued page from previous the ed like MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 7HYBUILDONEMORE TOSERVEYOURNEEDS YACHTCARRIERSATYOURDISPOSAL )*-5)$%.s3/54(!-04/.s')"2!,4!2s-!,,/2#!s&/24,!5$%2$!,% a 111-slipmarinaandboatyardwith12acresofdrystoragespace V Onsite amenitiesandservicesincludeabank/ATM,supermarket, chandlery, restaurant,bakery,clothingstore,diveshop,phoneand a pristineandrelaxingenvironment.BVICustomsimmigration Our facilitylocatedintheheartofbeautifulVirginGordacomprises 7ORLDWIDETAILORMADESERVICE offering insuranceapprovedhurricanepitstosecureyourvessel fax facilities,freewirelessinternetaccess,fuel,waterandice, IRGIN laundry facilities,andanofficeoftheBVITouristBoardallin Tel: 284495-5500 HEADOFFICETEL sUSAREPRESENTATIVETEL  ZBDIU!USBOTQPSU!PWFS!TFWFO!TFBT 284 495-5318 FAST RELIABLEANDSAFE IN OURCARETHISSUMMER located withinconvenientwalkingdistance. G for theupcominghurricaneseason. ORDA LEAVE YOURBOAT (managed bySunResortsInternational) Web: www.vgmarina.biz Full ServiceMarinaFacility WWWSEVENSTARNL VHF Ch:16 Y 4ORTOLA"6) 'IBRALTAR-ALLORCA,A3PEZIA ACHT 4ORTOLA"6) 3OUTHAMPTON.ETHERLANDS 4ORTOLA"6) &ORT,AUDERDALE.EWPORT Fax: 284495-5706 H 284 495-5685 ARBOUR  SAILINGSCHEDULE FORTHE#ARIBBEAN MAY MAY s#!2)""%!. cakes warm withwhippedtopping, maplesyrup,honey, orfruitjam. Remove toawarmplate andkeepwarm.Repeatwithremaining batter.Servepan- until surfaceisbubbly andbottomisbrowned.Fliptoother sideandbrown. cooking spray.Setover medium-highheat.Pour1/4Cup batter intopan.Cook just tomoisten—batter shouldbelumpy.Foldinfruits.Coat asmallskilletwith bowl combineegg,milk, andcookingoil.Poureggmixture into flourmixture.Stir crackers asanappetizeratHappyHour. dish servings(leftoversarefineonsandwiches)ormakesmallerfritterstoservewith Drain onpapertowels.Servewithtartarsauceorcocktailsauce.Makesfourmain Place inhotoilandwithaspatula,flattenslightly.Brownabout4minutesperside. um heat.Shapeseafoodmixturebyhandintoroundballsabout2”indiameter. absorbed. Makes4servings. then re-coverpot.Continuetosimmeranother10minutesoruntilallwateris minutes. AddcannedsoupandanyALREADY-COOKEDingredients,stirtomix, um heat,stirringoften.Coverpotandreduceheattolowestsimmerabout10 with Parmesanandservechilledoratroomtemperature.Makes4servings. Heat through,stirringgently.Removefromheatandtosswithpasta.Cool.Sprinkle any meatorseafood,honey,lemonjuice,peel,basil,oregano,saltpepper. fry for1minute.Addtomatoesandcookuntiljusttender.cookedvegetables, Serve withhottomatosauceontop.Fourservings. about 3minutesmore.Keepwarmonabakingsheet.Makethreemorepancakes. slide underneathtoavoidpossiblesticking.Flippancakeandbrowntheotherside, to flattenevenly.Cookabout4minutesuntilbottomisbrowned,usingaspatula add 1teaspoonoliveoil.Putone-fourthofspaghettimixtureintoskilletandpress and pepper.Stirgentlytocombine.Ina6-inchnon-stickskilletovermediumheat, combine eggs,milk,andParmesan.Addspaghetti,meatorseafood,vegetables,salt Serves two. cover skillet.Cookuntileggsaresetinthemiddle.Sprinklewithgratedcheese. spices. Poureggsoverallandaddbreadcrumbs.Stirtoblend,lowerheat, frompreviouspage —Continued In amediumbowl,stirtogetherflour,sugar, bakingpowder,andsalt.Inanother Whipped topping,maplesyrup,honeyor fruitjam etcetera) 1 Cupdicedfreshorcannedfruit(mangoes, peaches,pineapple,bananas, 2 Tablespoonscookingoil 1 Cupmilk 1 egg,beaten 1/4 teaspoonsalt 2 teaspoonsbakingpowder 2 Tablespoonssugar 1 Cupplainflour(or1/2plus 1/2Cupwholewheatflour) Whatever You’veGotDessertPancakes In amediummixingbowl,combineallbutoliveoil.Heatoilinskilletovermedi- 2 Tablespoonsoliveoil 1/2 Cupmayonnaise(preferablylow-fat) 1 Tablespoonseafoodseasoning(e.g.OldBay) 2 teaspoonsWorcestershireSauce 3 to6dropshotsauce 3/4 Cupbreadcrumbsorcrushedcrackers 1 egg,beaten 1 smallonion,grated 1 Cupcookedseafood(shrimp,crabmeat,fish,etcetera) Second-Hand SeafoodFritters Put allRAWingredientswithwaterinalargeheavypot.Bringtoboilovermedi- 1 Cupcookedchicken,pork,ham,beeforseafood,cubed 1 canofcreamsoup(chicken,mushroom,celery,etcetera) 1 smallcanmushroomstemsandpieceswithliquid 2 Cupswater 1/4 teaspoongarlicpowder Pinch ofthyme Salt andfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste 1 Cuprawrice 1 1/2Cupsotherrawveggies(greenbeans,eggplant,broccoli,etcetera) 1 carrot,slicedthinly 1 greenpepper,chopped 1 mediumonion,chopped Any-Old-Thing StovetopCasserole Heat oilandbutterinalargeskilletovermedium-highheat.Addgarlicstir- Parmesan cheese,grated 6 to8ouncescookedpasta(spaghetti,linguiniorfettuccini,macaroni) Salt andfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste 3/4 teaspoondriedcrushedoregano 3/4 teaspoondriedcrushedbasil 1 1/2teaspoonsgratedlemonorlimepeel 1/4 Cuplemonorlimejuice 1/4 Cuphoney 3/4 Cupcookedchicken,seafood,porkorbeef,cutinthinstripsdiced(optional) 1 1/2Cupscookedveggies(carrots,zucchini,cauliflower,etcetera)julienned 2 tomatoes,diced 2 garliccloves,minced 1/2 Tablespoonbutter 1 1/2Tablespoonsoliveoil Use-Em-Up PastaSalad Heat tomatosauceinasmallsaucepanoverlowheat.Inmediummixingbowl, 4 teaspoonsoliveoil Salt andfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste etcetera) 3/4 Cupcookedveggies(peas,broccoli,onions,greenpepper,cauliflower, 1 Cupcookedchicken,beef,pork,orseafood,diced 3 TablespoonsParmesancheese,grated 1/3 Cupmilk 3 eggs,beaten 8 ouncesthinspaghetti,cookedanddrained 1 1/2Cupstomatosauce Spaghetti Pancakes In afryingpanovermediumheat,sautévegetablesinoliveoil.Sprinklewith Cheese, grated 1/2 Cupbreadcrumbsor2slicesofbread,cubed 4 eggs,beaten Pinch ofthymeororegano MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45

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SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL Editor’s note:Besureto

over noodles,riceorvegetables. excess liquid.Stircashewpiecesintosauce.Serve so itdoesnotstick.After20minutespourorspoonoff ents exceptcashews.Cookonhighbutstirfrequently dles orcookedrice. thickens. Pourmixtureoverabedofchowmeinnoo- cover foroneminute.Uncoverandstiruntilsauce and pouroverchickenveggiemix.Addcashews into fourTablespoonssoysauce.Addtochickenbroth with thepakchoy.StironeTablespoonofcornstarch Return chicken-onionmixturetotheheatedskillet choy stripsandsugarcookforfourminutes. three minutes.Emptytheskillettoabowl. celery, hotpepper,andmushroomscookanother chicken andfryforfiveminutes.Addchoppedonion, Tablespoon cornstarchandrefrigerateforhalfanhour. with twoTablespoonssoysaucemixed1/2 chopped chickeninamedium-sizedbowlandcover have awok,largefryingpanwillbeadequate.Place means stirringconstantlyoverhighheat.Ifyoudonot blend inbutter,cashews,andraisins. heat, butkeepcoveredfor15minutes.Withafork, boil, thencookonlowfor20minutes.Removefrom cloves, bayleaves,andsalt.Coverpotbringtoa clear. Inasuitablepotcombinerice,water,cinnamon, until mixturethickens. water untilsmooth.Addtosoupstirringconstantly utes. Stircornstarchintothefourtablespoonsof Bring toaboil.Simmeronverylowheatfor30min- cashews, pineapple,rum,water,bouillon,andspices. Bring watertoboilinalargeskillet.Addallingredi- 1 Cupcashewschoppedassmallpossible Salt andspicetotaste mary andoreganoleaves 1 Tablespooneachfreshordriedmarjoram,rose 5 clovesofgarlic,minced 1 Cupwater 1 largeonion,chopped 4 poundsplumtomatoes,diced Nutty TomatoSauce Refresh skilletwithtwoTablespoonsoil,addpak Heat twoTablespoonsoilinalargeskillet;add This recipeistobecookedinawokasstir-fry.That 2 Cupscookedchowmeinnoodlesorbrownrice Salt andspicetotaste 1 Cupcashews 1/2 Cupchickenbroth 1 Tablespoonbutterormargarine 4 Tablespoonsbrownsugar 1/2 bunchofpakchoy,shredded 1/2 Cupmushrooms,sliced 1/2 ofafreshhotpepper(optional) 1 Cupcelery,chopped 1/4 CupchoppedredSpanishonion 4 Tablespoonsoliveoil,divided 1 1/2Tablespoonscornstarch,divided 4 Tablespoonssoysauce 2 Cupschicken,cookedandcubed Cashew ChickenCasserole Always rinsericebeforecooking,untilthewateris Salt andotherspicestotaste 2 bayleaves 2 Tablespoonssoftbutterormargarine 1 teaspoongroundcinnamon 4 cloves 1/4 Cupchoppedcashews 1/4 Cupraisins 3 Cupswater 1 1/2Cupsbrownrice Cashew RiceSpecial

MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 tel: 440-2310 tel: grenada The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 VHF Ch68 or Tel: 458 3474 VHF Ch68 or Tel: the Frangipani and Plantation House. the Frangipani and Plantation exotic arts + crafts interior design e-mail: [email protected] Jewelry, Wooden-Ware & Hammocks Open daily from 11:00am to 10:00pm. Open daily from 11:00am

rare + young street st. georges In addition to our famous pizza we offer In addition to our famous For Reservations: Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between Admiralty Bay, Situated in on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up MAC’S PIZZERIA MAC’S seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods. seasonal specialties and —Continued on next page .” We apologize for any misun- .” We apologize , and BAM! Right in my face, , and BAM! Right in my , , , Compass Such-and-Such Compass Compass Compass I’m mortified that you printed my letter without clar- For goodness sake, no-one, surely, can have a prob- Since then we’ve been back to the Cays twice and I just happened to be paging through the January I just happened to be paging So, here goes mine, I will be changing a few so it So, here goes mine, I will 1) Save more money 2) Put photography and writing first 3) Eat healthy 4) No alcohol… or should I say less? 5) Veg-Ah-Bit! 6) Stay away from lowlifes 7) No smoking 8) Focus, focus, focus 9) Look for a better job 10) Watch weight 11) No babies until 30-something 12) Learn to be more patient 13) Always say thank you and please 14) Every day give the Almighty thanks and praise for life 15) X boyfriend(s) out for good!! 16) Last but not least, BE HAPPY! Sorry I could not put in all 23; the others would be Regarding Mary Heckrotte’s article about pineapples Heckrotte’s article about Regarding Mary Deborah’s letter brings up our footnote policy. When up our footnote letter brings Deborah’s ifying the fact that on the first day that charges were implemented in the Tobago Cays Marine Park we were charged not only EC$10 per person but EC$50 as well for the boat! lem paying EC$10 per person, least of all me. have been charged the correct rate. There was obvi- ously some confusion regarding fees to begin with that has now been sorted out. Susan Bruce S/Y Makayabella issue of the something that says “Here Comes 2007” by Julia something that says “Here resolutions for the New Bartlett, listing her top ten I realize this woman Year. Although I am a landlubber, mind, because all of what must have been reading my — out of 23! she wrote is in my top ten the word... personal? does not sound so, what’s inappropriate for your paper. I am a landlubber, land- lover, call it what you want — and, no, humans don’t come any better! Cheers, Kedisha Compton Bequia Dear in the January issue of Compass, I can inform you issue of Compass, I can in the January It’s not pineapple comes from. where the word cone and the outside looks like a pine because the In the Polynesian lan- inside tastes like an apple. is “pinapou” — I do not guage, the word for that fruit When the English sailors know the correct spelling. they transformed it to what came and heard this word, we call it today: pineapple. Regards, Angelika Grüner S/V Angelos Dear Dear Compass Readers, Compass Dear signed received which have been articles we publish an name rather than and a boat person’s name with a and therefore, to be cruisers we take them address, footnote material, their own they have supplied unless Caribbean “So-and-So is cruising the we routinely add aboard case. might have caused in Deborah’s derstanding this CC Dear , after spend- BAR • Bequia Tel: (784) 458-3255 Fax: (784) 458-3824 Sea Witch . Someone who doesn’t even . We hope that by later this year Don’t miss Don’t miss RESTAURANT Compass •

,

Sea Witch Readers’ Forum Readers’ barbecue and our famous the

jump upThursday nights! will be back in shape, just like a lot of other Compass

HOTEL frangipani E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.frangipanibequia.com I was inclined to ignore the letter from “Maritime I was inclined to ignore the As for us not contributing to the economy, give me a As for the letter from Mr. Cameron concerning the have the courage to sign their name to such a letter have the courage to sign their However, since he chose doesn’t deserve a response. also many of my friends to not only attack myself but The so-called Hog Island in his diatribe, I will respond. a prominent business “squatters” he refers to include owner who is a huge contributor to the tourism indus- try, several people who hold work permits and are law- fully employed, and also permanent residents of Grenada. As for John and I on Mobile” [Readers’ Forum, January 2007] concerning Mobile” [Readers’ Forum, Grenada development my thoughts on the Hog Island, in the November Dear break! We buy our groceries right here; we don’t load up in Trinidad and gripe about Grenada prices and we don’t go to Venezuela and load up on fuel. We spend over EC$5,000 a month right here. Shame on you! As for your reference to the fact that we are not out cruis- ing the Caribbean you are right: I never claimed that, the editorial staff selected the title of my commentary and added the footnote saying that I was cruising the Caribbean on ing two years in a marina here, we are back at anchor. We could use the excuse that we are still working on Hurricane Ivan damage (very true). But, we love the country and the people and are in the process of appli- cation for permanent residency. It is not a streamlined or inexpensive process. According to our Grenadian attorney, we should plan on the process taking any- where from two to five years. Sea Witch boats that are finally getting their Ivanization fixed. commentary. If you will reread it you will see I did not speak out against development. I am very excited about some of the development taking place in Grenada. You are evidently not aware of the number of have fabulous resorts, hotels and villas we already here in Grenada. Please contact the Board of Tourism and they will be happy to send you some information. For our vacation “off the boat” last year we stayed right here in Grenada and rented a beautiful villa for a week. The commentary was intended to let cruisers know what is going on in a very popular spot and to plea for a considered environmental approach to development whether it occurs here in Grenada, or anywhere else. Sincerely, Deborah Gerber S/V Sea Witch MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 to findquietanchoragesfarfrom“TheMaddingCrowd”. are notdescribedintheotherguides.Thisenablesthem anchorages thatarepopularwithbareboaters. pictures anddescribehotels,bars,restaurants describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, ARE MOREECONOMICAL! www.iUniverse.com andwww.seabooks.com Real sailorscircleinStreet’sGuidetheanchoragesthat Real sailorsalsobuytheotherguides,thathavepretty Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor experience intheCaribbean,series’fourvolumes BUY STREET’SGUIDES cover theEasternCaribbeanfromPuertoRico at bookshopsandchandleries,orfrom Written byanauthorwith50yearsofsailing STREET’S GUIDES the coastofVenezuelatoABCs. Street’s Guidesareavailable REAL SAILORS down throughtheislandsand has everbeenpublishedonthefollowing. Dear Yacht Malolo Laura Sargent Thank you, cal rule? people lookingfor? call attention—justwhatkindofarethese Dear S/Y TheVagrant George Syvrud sung byJoniMitchell. reminded ofthelyricsto“BigYellowTaxi”,writtenand mooring feesatTobagoCaysIcan’thelpbutbe Dear Sally when dealingwitheverymonth’snewletters. or conversationdoesnotalwayssurfaceinmybrain human, andthecontentsofanyothercorrespondence mind. Caveattoletterwriters:Youreditorisonly your Februaryletterormyreply,asithadslipped ususual circumstancewasnotclearlyoutlinedineither the parkfeesperse,excessivelyhigh.)I’msorrythis would havemadethecostofthatparticularvisit,ifnot in additiontotheper-personentryfee.(Thiscertainly your boathadmistakenlybeenchargedamooringfee spondence inwhichyoumentionedthatDecember You havesincerecentlyremindedmeofothercorre- in myopinion)hassadlycometoolatefortheturtles”. long-awaited introductionofparkfees(excessivelyhigh mortification. YourFebruarylettersimplystated:“the Dear Susan, frompreviouspage —Continued Hi Miami, Florida Rigoberto Muñoz cy”, I’lltaketheoldfashionedkindanyday. become President-for-Life?Ifthisis“moderndemocra- forward socialism?Andisn’tChaveznowanglingto by decree?Isn’tthisstepadmittedlydesignedtofast- standard”. Really?Isn’tPresidentChaveznowruling stated thatVenezuela“isamoderndemocracybyany Venezuela a“dictatorshipeconomy”,andMr.Gomez December writer“Mr.Cruisin’Canucks”forcalling Dear S/V Cielo Dave Ferneding ernment officials. such apoliteandreceptivegroupofuniformedgov- of driftingaroundtheCaribbeanIhavenevermet more desirableareaforvisitingyachts.Inmy47years ments askingwhattheycandotomakeColombiaa ber ofuscruisingfolksandlocalmarineestablish- hang around! cruising Colombiaaboard to thePanamaCanal.Thisisoursecondseasonof ular port-of-callforcruisingyachts,plusthegateway Cartagena, Colombiahasbecomeasafeandverypop- Mustique, ANDaccordingto specifically inamooringfieldlikeBritanniaBay, cockpit, andunnecessaryinadesignatedanchorage, “flash” asItrytohaveaquieteveninginmy strobe atnightasananchorlight.Myquestionis“Why?” lcrnc,Cadey Rigging Chandlery, Electronics, www.midatlanticyachtservices.com I’m wonderingifanyreadersknowwhetheranything Can someonepleaseenlightenmetothisnewnauti- After readingaboutthenewparkfeesandproposed Apologies ifmybadmemorywasthecauseofany In theFebruaryForum,KentGomezchastised The ColombiaCoastGuardhasapproachedanum- With thepoliticalmessgoingoninVenezuela, It isextremelyirritatingtohavetheincessant“flash” I havenoticedthisyearquiteafewboatsthatuse Compass PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL YACHT SERVICES EU-VAT (15%) Importation Bunkered Fuel(+10,000lt) Compass Compass Caribbean Compass Compass for Trans-Atlantic Yachts FAX +351292391656 TEL +351292391616 [email protected] MID ATLANTIC Services &Repairs Services , Providing allvital AZORES , , Readers, , Cielo Chapman’s . It’stoogoodnotto a strobeisto turned backdefeated. who havingbravedthelooselytetheredbull,hadalso undermined whenwemetenrouteayachtiecouple, out forourselves.Ourconfidencewassomewhat roaring torrents. had turnedbackdefeatedbyimpenetrablejungleand Christopher, wasnotforthefaint-heartedandthathe Guadaloupe, appealinglydescribedbySaint River behindthebayofsamenamein friend thatthe“coolshadywalk”upDeshaies than inglowingterms. spectacles andrarely,ifever,describesanythingother Christopher viewstheCaribbeanthroughrose-tinted tions. HoweverwehaveformedtheopinionthatSaint without referencetooneoftheseexcellentpublica- iar toallreadersandrarelyadaypasseson Dear Sally recently, whetherornotyouhavewrittendirections. any hike,thatyougowithsomeonewhohasdoneit me intoterraincognitaratherthantothefalls. but aheavyrainhadcutnewstreambed—whichled find me.Yes,I’dfollowedthestream,asinformervisits, seemed likeagesfinallybroughtmycompanionsbackto sprang tomind.Onlywhistlingandshoutingforwhat cano andstaggeredintoaremotevillagefourdayslater decided totryan“alternate”routedownSt.Vincent’svol- the streamagain.LostThetaleoftouristswho backtracked untilIrecognizedalandmark,thenfollowed it. SuddenlyIlookedupandrealizedwastotallylost. from formervisits:justfollowthestreamwhenyoureach completely unconcernedbecauseIknewthewaywell companions, enjoyingtherainforestflowersandbirds, Seven Falls.Onememorabletime,Ilingeredbehindmy was onanunimprovedtrailtothethenseldom-visited falls thatchangearoutearenotuncommon. courses oftheriversandstreams.Mudslidesrock rains frequentlycananddochangethecharacters they arerainy(becausemountainous),andthe tainous, forestedislands.Theyarebecause keep inmindwhenhikingashoreonanyofthemoun- sumer complaint,buttoillustrateaseriouspoint Dear [email protected] S/Y Pedroma Piotr Riabko Thanks, such abook,pleasecontactme. net —nothing.Ifsomebodyhasanyinformationabout and aboutthemutinyonship.Icheckedinter- (I knowthisstoryfromDarwin’sbook.) son. In1834,CharlesDarwinandFitzroyvisitedher. gave hercrime.ShelivedinArgentinaasanobleper- ed BritishsoldiersandbecauseofthisEnglandfor- this warMrs.Clarkhelpednursemanyofthewound- and Montevideoheldthemforsixmonths.During inheritance. married arichman.Afterhisdeathshereceivedan a fewsailors.Mrs.Clarkstabbedthecaptain. woman madeaplantomurderallthecrewexceptfor the shipwasonlatitudeofBuenosAires,this tiful woman,Mrs.Clark,livedwiththecaptain.When crew usedthemasconcubines,andoneyoungbeau- Australia withmanywomenprisoners.Ofcourse,the • Visa/MasterCardaccepted • Activitydesk(Tours, diving andwatersportactivities) • Lightboatrepairand cleaning • Yachtchandleryagents ofBudgetMarine • Telephone&internet WIFIconnection • Garbagedisposal • Cleanrestroomsandshowers • Bakery • Ice&Provisioning(Grocerystore) • Nightsecurity • Securedmoorings • Nearbylaundryservice • Dinghydock • Fuel(MarineDiesel)/Wateratthedock • DinghyBar So armedwithsteelydeterminationwesetofftofind We hadbeenwarnedbyakeenmountaineering The guidesofSaintChristopherDoylewillbefamil- We alwaysrecommend,especiallyforthefirsttimeon When livinginGrenadathe1970s,ourfavoritehike We publishtheletterbelownotasanindividualcon- I thinktheremustbeabookaboutthisadventurer In 1806theBritishEmpireinvadedBuenosAires The shipcametoBuenosAiresandsoonthiswoman In approximately1802ashipleftEnglandboundfor & soonMercuryMarine Compass Compass , Readers, [email protected] www.dominicamarinecenter.com Capitainerie Tel:+7672752851 —Continued onnextpage —Continued THE CITYOFROSEAU UNIQUE INDOMINICA VHF: 16WorkingCH:19 Fax: +7674487701 SITUATED IN S/Y Oriole MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 business insurance phone: 340-513 -3147 phone: SAIL fax: 340-777-6272 email: [email protected] email: POWER it is too late. it is too www.maritimeyachtsales.com Saint Thomas, USVI Saint Thomas, Marine Fax DM Street or unsatisfactorily settled, Then, if the claim is denied Insurance www.street-iolaire.com insurance is until you have a claim. have you is until insurance The insurance business has changed. insurance The insurance, is no good cheap but there There is good insurance,There is cheap there Rather, can only say, broker the honest No longer can brokers talk of low rates. talk of low No longer can brokers insurance.You never know how good your how know never insurance.You “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” your minimize best to “I’ll do my settlement record cannot be beat. Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 - 33927 or e-mail: [email protected] I have been in the 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVI Boatyard St. Thomas, Independent 55 Vitech Motoryacht, 199855 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980 198050 Marine Trader, $ 499,000 43 Mainship 430, 200334 Mainship, 1979 1994 w/cuddy, 31 Tiara $ 389,000 27 Grady White, 1997 $ 149,000 198526 Fortier w/cuddy, 26 Grady White, 1996 $ 359,000 $ 79,000 $ 59,900 $ 42,000 $ 50,000 $ 42,900 47 Stevens, 198147 Stevens, 1995 42 Hunter Passage, 199642 Catalina MKII, 198542 Whitby, 41 Hunter 410, 2000 $ 159,000 39 Stevens, 198137 C&C, 198536 Frers, 1985 $ 124,900 210,000 $ 35 Island Packet, 1991 198834 Tartan, 32 Bristol, 1976 $ 145,000 89,000 $ $ 46,000 $ 119,000 $ 59,000 $ 55,000 55,000 $ $ 22,000 —Continued on next page Down Island Ltd , , www.islandvillas.com Land and houses for sale We also handle Villa Rentals & Rentals also handle Villa We For full details see our website: or contact Carolyn Alexander at or contact Carolyn e-mail: [email protected] Compass Compass Property Management on Carriacou Management Property Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290 Tel: CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE One of the advantages of sailing outside the US and Our Medis Elite plan, administered by Global Global Assurance Group has several different Medis Coverage is fine for our needs, with all the major John is not the first to write to me about the dangers first to write to me about John is not the Leewards guide that in In a similar vein, I say in my We passed your letter on to Chris Doyle for comment, on to Chris your letter We passed Europe is that health insurance becomes more affordable. Assurance Group, costs less than the health insurance we had when we were employed in the US (counting employer contributions of course). For those of you who worked in high payroll tax European countries (as we did a while back), our plan would be an even greater bargain. health insurance plans to choose from, all underwrit- ten by Generali Worldwide, part of the Generali Group of Italy (assets: US$300 billion and S&P AA rating). So we’re rather confident that the claim money will be there when we need it. risks covered (subject to no more than the usual exclusions). We can say that after six years, our poli- cy terms have not changed much. This is a relief in an age when many insurance policies suffer from “exclu- sion inflation” over time. calm conditions you can attempt a landing in Saba at Ladder Bay which was, after all, the only way to get ashore until recent times. I am changing the wording this year to discourage this, since many people have damaged themselves in the attempt. Happy sailing and hiking! Chris Dear and difficulty of the Deshaies River. Another reader of the Deshaies River. Another and difficulty hiking said, “No way without proper gave up and quite a few of course, been up there shoes”. I have, to say it took flip-flops or sandals. I have times in either to the water- to make it all the way up me some years on the top way and I usually ratted out fall; it is a long the figment not sure whether the fall was road and was pushed on up But one year I of someone’s imagination. the top road. was, not too far up from and there it of the Deshaies River Anyone who gets to the beginning equipment or the back-up and thinks it needs special might do better to visit of a search-and-rescue team, which are truly delight- the Botanical Gardens instead, slippery rocks. ful, and do not normally include Dear John, Dear which follows. CC Dear and walk through our propriété privée now view we . Such notices are often an indication Bob Goodchild Accredited Marine Surveyor

RYA (Commercial) Ocean Yachtmaster Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors Accredited Marine Society of

Tel: Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388 [email protected] Marine Surveyors, Grenada Accreditation - American Boat and Yacht Council Yacht and American Boat Accreditation - ‘We continued our slippery way from rock to rock, occasionally sliding into one of the many lovely pools’ PURCHASE – INSURANCE - DAMAGE We finally emerged onto the road, which presumably However we set off with a will and waded and slith- off with a will and waded However we set the “road that joins the However we never reached

Marine Survey throughout the Caribbean Flyingfish Ventures Ltd rose-tinted spectacles. John Lytle S/Y Oriole eventually meets the river as Saint Christopher describes. Thirty minutes’ brisk walking returned us to Deshaies two and a half hours after we had started out. We rewarded ourselves with lunch in one of the lovely restaurants on the waterfront. With voluminous libations to Bacchus we thanked the god that we had avoided a broken ankle or worse and had come through with no more than a gashed shin and thor- oughly wet clothes. We have decided that Saint Christopher must have had a mountain goat to guide him and cast iron ankle bones. Either that or he has never done the walk at all! Maybe he will tell us! Whatever the outcome defense d’entrer of welcome nearby civilization, so we ignored the warning and climbed up through the steep private property to reach a farm and eventually a convent sur- rounded by numerous shrines. We were about to enter to fall on our knees to give thanks for our deliverance, but were deterred by a notice entreating worshipping “hommes” not to enter without “un chemise avec manches” which we correctly translated as a shirt with sleeves. fifteen minutes” to Deshaies, as, after over an hour’s hard struggle, our attention was drawn to a faded notice nailed to a tree warning of ered our way for the first hundred meters or so. Faced for the first hundred meters ered our way boulders, we wall of slimy giant with an impassable river looked the rainforest until the detoured into slippery way and then continued our more benign one of the rock occasionally sliding into from rock to with a cool- We rewarded ourselves many lovely pools. it was double but realized that by now ing skinny dip climbing down the way we or quits. We could not face This we did either had come so we had to continue. it proved impassible struck along the riverbed or when out into the jungle. which returns in “about river on the left hand side”, —Continued page from previous is no the river there road ends at the concrete Where by is as described the route path and discernable rock”. from rock to the river “follow Saint Christopher: specta- rose-tinted through his does not say What he even slippery and are extremely that the rocks cles, is to say suitable footwear are hazardous with the most the least. MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 Dear Happily InsuredSailors Please signus, and that’sworthwritinghomeabout. ronment. Ourhealthinsurancehasdonejustthat; dollars willstandthetestoftimeinadifficultenvi- er itisyoujustboughtwithyourpreciouscruising the internet.Thedifficultquestioniswhetherwhatev- on boatsworkasadvertised. share theexperience.Weallknowthatveryfewthings six years,andfoundittoworkwell,thenwelike them. It’sjustthatwhenwehavetestedaproductfor Global orGenerali,andreceivenoconsiderationfrom sailors aresuspicious),wehavenoconnectionwith ance thesedays. really isnoexcusetogocruisingwithouthealthinsur- help fixit. nary —ahitch.Ifhitchoccurs,theyarepromptto the CaribbeanandEuropewithnary—oralmost has beenprocessingtheclaimswesendthemfrom where. Forsixyearsnow,GlobalAssuranceGroup ness” withdistantprovidersintheUSandelse- mail istheonlyefficientwayto“takecareofbusi- claims exclusivelybye-mail.Cruisersknowthate- Europe. Ifyoucanscandocuments,process far surpassesanythingweexperiencedintheUSand needs andquiteresponsive.Theirqualityofservice at GlobalAssuranceGroupareattentivetoyour cessing toberelativelyeasyandpainless.Thefolks frompreviouspage —Continued me thattheyhavemadesomechanges es we’veencounteredovertheyears.Paulalsoadvised behind them,unlikealotofmarine-relatedbusiness- ested inmanufacturinggoodproductsandstanding vations atall.He’sagoodbusinessmanwhoisinter- the extramileforhim. This guywenttheextramileforus,sowe’dliketogo after thesmokeclears.Evenifitwasn’ttheirsmoke. care abouttheircustomersandproducts.Even good, honorablebusinessfolksaroundwhogenuinely but hedidandshowedusthattherearestillsome n’t havetodoanything,sincethiswasbeforehistime, al amountofmanufacturing-relatedproblems.Hedid- beyond thecallofdutyforus,sincewehadanunusu- the nextdayandwithnoreservations,wentabove mailed Paulandtoldhimourstory.Hee-mailedback some unhappycustomersfromyearspast.Wee- Marcuzzo) whoweregenuinelyinterestedinhelping agement andappearedtobesomenicefolks(Paul a newname,FourWindsEnterprises,andman- circumnavigator BruceDage,toldusthatEverfairhas turing related. fix ityourself”.Mostoftheproblemsweremanufac- must havebrokenitordonesomethingwrong;tryto from them,too,wegotlotsof“It’snotourfault;you management atEverfairandgettingtherunaround circles likehamstersonatreadmillwiththeold a multitudeofproblems.Afterrunningaroundin When wegottoNewZealanddiscoveredhad headed outacrossthePacific,eightmonthslater. light airwenevercouldreallytesttheunituntil US andinstalleditthere.BecauseMexicohasvery brought theunitdowntoMexicofromwestcoast directly fromthemanufacturer,Everfair.We 1998 wepurchasedaFourWindsIIwindgenerator in 1996forthestartofourcircumnavigation.In It’s easytopickthebestwhatever“it”isyouwanton For thesuspicious(andinourexperience,allgood Go toMedishealth.comandseeforyourself.There But mostimportantly,wehavefoundclaimpro- We recommendPaulandhiscompanywithnoreser- Recently, afriendofoursandfellowSSCAmember, We arecurrentlyinPanama.leftSanFrancisco Compass , name maybewithheldinprintatyourrequest. We donotpublishanonymousletters;however,your individual regattaresultscomplaints(kudosareokay!). a waywecancontactyouifclarificationisrequired. Dear CompassReaders, S/V Ticketoo Tony andKris to shareourpositiveexperience. better becauseofthem.Wehopeyoualltakethetime visit. Ourcruisingexperience,andourmemories,are are itspeople.Wehappythatwestoppedfora City. StLuciaisabeautifulandinterestingisland,as does notpreventusfromvisitingplaceslikeNewYork for twohundredyears,andcontinuetodoso.That North Americancitieshavestruggledtoreducecrime that noplaceisone-hundred-percentsafe.Major environment forthecruisingcommunity.Werealize government ismakingaseriousefforttoimprovethe peskiness ofcertainboatboys.Webelievethatthe light becauseofrecentcrimesandthesometimes also provideland-basedtaxiandtours. They willtransportyoufromandtoyourboat, them toanyonestoppingneartheirSoufrierelocation. where intheCaribbean.Wewouldhighlyrecommend service wassomeofthebestwehaveexperiencedany- the finestpeoplewehavemetanywhere.Thefoodand Harmony BeachRestaurant&Bar.Theyaresomeof St. Lucia,wemetthefamilythatoperates many wonderfulandinterestingpeople.Recently,on months) thatwehavebeencruising,met people thanlifeonlandprovided.Intheshorttime(20 opportunity tomeetafarbroadercross-sectionof are formedaroundthepeoplewemeet.Cruisingisan despite thelovelysurroundings,ourfondestmemories concerns. Ibelievethatmostofuswouldsaythat, Dear S/V Annapurna Buddy andRuthEllison Fair windsandfollowingseastoall, these topics. we currentcruiserssendtocruisingmagazineson tion allofthenewto-becruisersthatreadletters Who givesgoodserviceandwhodoesn’t.Nottomen- usually comesupofwhatworksanddoesn’t. cruisers talktoeachotheratsomepointandthetopic you’ve allheardofthecoconuttelegraph.Allus multiplied manytimesoverdowntheroad.Weknow lars inthistypeofapproachandservicecomesback that couldtakealessonfromthisguy.Investmentdol- service businessesthatwe’vedealtwithovertheyears mouth is. the past.Icallthatputtingyourmoneywhere offer athree-yearguaranteeasopposedtooneyearin their unitsmuchbetterandmorereliable.Now,they St. Vincent&theGrenadines Bequia Box 175BQ Readers’ Forum Compass PublishingLtd. or or fax(784)457-3410 [email protected] Send yourlettersto: We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaintsor Please includeyourname,boatnameoraddress,and We wanttohearfromYOU! As weareallaware,St.Luciahasbeeninthespot- As cruisers,wesharemanysimilarexperiencesand There areanumberofmarine-relatedproductsand Letters maybeeditedforlength,clarityandfairplay. Compass Readers, MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 $ 75K artered! ’97 $ 89K 92 $ 69K ’01 $370K $690K ’01 ’00 2 avail. from Lowest on Market! 1 owner since new! ’ 47' 1986 CT Cutter Immaculate condition! POWER Aft cockpit cruiser, Cutter rig, 62HP MULTIHULLS Perkins, Cruising Venezuela $99,900 37’ CSY 37 Cutter, 2cab/2hd Good upgradesch 36’ Beneteau CC, 2 cab/1 hd, Never ’7836’ Tiburon, 1cab/1hd Solid cruiser!36’ Beneteau M362, 2cab/1hd, $ 45K ’76 $ 47K Sail Power 45’ Prout Catamarans, 2 cab Never chartered! ’9545’ Prout Ocean Ranger, 4 cab World cruiser44’ Voyage Norseman 440 4cab/4hd ’80 $280K 42’ Lagoon, 3cab/2hd, Well equipped!42’ Solaris Cat, 4cab/4hd, in Rio Dulce $119K 40’ Fountaine Pajot Lavezzi, Owner’s Version ’03 $295K 38’ Fount.Pajot Athena, 4cab/2hd ’9256’ Horizon Motor yacht, ’02 ’86 $119K $239K $360K 50’ Hatteras Sportfisherman, 3 cab/2 head48’ Horizon 48 Motor Yacht, 3 cab/3 head42’ Nova Marine Trawler, Sundeck trawler ’99 $165K ’8142’ Hershine 42, Motor yacht 4 cab/4 head36’ Heritage East 36 2cab/2hd, galley down ’00 $295K ’9835’ Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/1 head ’8927’ Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab ’01 $310K $249K $ 99K $209K ’01 $129K ’06 $ 99K 35’ O’Day, 2cab/1hd, Great condition35’ Beneteau Oceanis, 2 cab/1 hd32’ Beneteau 322, 2cab/1hd aft ckpt46’ Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4cab/4hd ’87 $ 45K ’99 ’95 $ 56K $ 59K 36’ Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 2cab/1hd36’ Hunter Vision 36, 2cab ’99 $ 75K ’89 $149K ’81’01 $ 69K ’97 $129K $149K ’79 $159K [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 www.stthomasyachts.com Well maintained! Well maintained! Recent upgrades! is right now looking for: is right In excellent shape! TradeWinds Cruise Club Cruise TradeWinds Performance Cruiser SAIL for live-aboard Charter Catamaran! for live-aboard P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands, Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, ONE CREW MEMBER ONE • Experienced in marine mechanics • Experienced in marine • Scuba certified have a valid US visa • Hold a US passport OR website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats 46' 1980 Pan Oceanic Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535, email: [email protected] Heavily built cruiser, (2) helms, ST. THOMAS YACHT THOMAS ST. SALES Requirements are: Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website for a complete new awlgrip, Cruising Trinidad $120,000 YOU BETTER BELIZE IT!! BELIZE BETTER YOU 34' '93 Searunner Trimaran34' '89 Pacific Seacraft Solid wings, AP, clean44' '82 Ta Chiao CT56' '95 Arthur Robb Design great condition Bluewater cruiser in Ferro/Fbg composite, 3 strms Custom 100,000 Canoe Stern, Perkins 4-108 95,000 30' '68 Fjord Diplomat,35' '88 Luhrs Alura 105,000 42' '81 Post Sportfish 45,000 All around weekender, twin gas,48' '89 Hi Star Trawler Twin DD's, very good condition fish or cruise Sleeps 4, twin Crusaders, 56,000 375HP Cats Sundeck, 3 strms, 174,900 27,000 125,000 Join the fabulous lifestyle of a fun & outgoing team in Belize… lifestyle of a fun Join the fabulous the end of July paid and lasts until Position is well to extend employment into the future. with a good possibility Please email your CV and references today to: Please email your CV Simon McDevitt TradeWinds Cruise Club View TradeWinds at Harbour Tortola , British Virgin Islands 9261 Tel. Office: + 284 494 Email: [email protected] 52’ Jeanneau Su Ody, 3cab/3hd Loaded!46’ Kelly Peterson, 2cab/2hd, Immaculate!46’ Hunter 460, 2cab/ 2hd, Well equipped!46’ Hunter 460, 3cab/ 2hd 40K Price drop! ’03 ’8346’ Beneteau 463, 3cab/3hd ’0145’ Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3cab/3hd $465K $210K ’0045’ Downeast Yacht, 3cab/2hd, $189K $149K ’99 ’99 $149K $159K 43’ Mason, 2cab/1hd, World Cruiser!43’ Serendipity, 2cab/1hd, 42’ Dufour Gibsea, 2 cab/2 hd, 42’ Jeanneau CC 2 cab/2 hd, 42’ Beneteau 42 CC 2cab/2hd Reduced!42’ J Boat J/130, 2cab/1hd, Fully equipped! ’8140’ Island Packet, 2cab/2 hd, New Listing40’ Beneteau M405, 3cab/2hd, Loaded! ’93 $129K 40’ Bayfield, 2cab/2 hd, New Listing! ’0340’ O’Day, 2 cab/1 hd, Comfortable cruiser! $199K ’9840’ Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, New Listing $179K 38’ Hunter 380, 3cab/1hd, In St Vincent ’86 $239K ’95 $ 59K $119K ’84 ’95 ’99 $110K $139K $ 89K 45’ Hardin Voyager, 4cab/2hd Bargain!45’ Bombay Explorer, 2cab/2hd World cruiser! ’7844’ Beneteau 44CC, 2cab/2hd, In great shape! ’9444’ CSY 44 2cab/2hd, Reduced – Motivated! $ 65K 44’ CSY Walkover, 2cab/2hd, Great condition! ’79 $198K ’79 ’7744’ Nordic Cutter 2cab/1hd Refit 2000!44’ Moody CC, 2cab/1hd, Great value! $155K $ 70K $ 85K 43’ Irwin Mark III, 2cab/2hd, ’86 ’95 $139K $175K —Continued on page 53 which made it difficult to right NEW 63’ SAIL CAT Club Med 2 SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERS NEW Letter of Letter Month the CATAMARANS . For an experienced sailor this is not too hazardous. Simply . For an experienced sailor • Available as single or double deck 49 passengers, Base price $199,000 Club Med 2

All new Offshore 53’ catamaran Twin diesel, AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY • Fast delivery • Twin Diesel - Base Price $299,000 • Fast delivery • Twin Diesel - Base Price • 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX • 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test I write with concern for the safety of visitors to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. This bay, to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. for the safety of visitors I write with concern Cat was happily sailing towards the center of the bay Just a case in point: a Hobie Having rescued the men, the cruiser offered to go after the Hobie Cat for them. The Having rescued the men, the the Hobie Cat and The safety boat eventually arrived, took the men, retrieved safety boat almost In this case inexperience, fear and the lack of an attendant would not operate… all A sailboarder got too tired… a wave-runner whose craft out to Pigeon Island — A water taxi was seen carrying four fairly large customers Call Ron Cooper (727) 367- 5004 • www.coopermarine.com Open Letter To The St. Lucia Tourist Board To The St. Lucia Tourist Open Letter Tourist Board, Dear St. Lucia industry. It is greatest assets for the hotel is one of St. Lucia’s as everyone knows, sheltered same in depth, offering splendid miles wide and the about one-and-a-half in these those who do not participate about all watersports. Even waters for just watching the paragliding, kayaking, sailboarding, Hobie water activities delight in wave runners. This all sounds ideal and for the most Cat sailing, pedal craft, and beautiful water playgrounds needs supervision. I have part it is, but playing in out watercraft do indeed have safety boats. However they observed that those hiring or have other duties to attend that keep them from are either too slow to react that can put visitors at risk. responding quickly in situations the caught by a gust that caused it to capsize next to in light winds, when it was cruise ship right the cat — loosening the sail and standing on one of the hulls would do the trick right the cat — loosening the the two men were tossed into the water, and — and off you go again. Unfortunately chain of the cat was caught in the anchor bedraggled sailors were no longer interested in their craft. One exclaimed, “You bedraggled sailors were no could die out here!” towed it in with the men staying on the safety boat. in a pedal craft, not realizing caused a nasty accident. In a similar incident, tourists furiously against a 15-knot the dangers, had gone too far out into the bay. Pedaling They ended up way out by wind and an out-going tide, they were getting nowhere. Pigeon Island, and again the rescuer was a cruiser. rescued by cruisers. I could go on and on. people and the operator left innocent you might say? But the weight of those four very little freeboard, and not a life vest in sight. it. The hulls were sticking up out of the water and with another gust the cat freed it. The hulls were sticking a leaving the two men in the water and in a bit of itself and drifted quickly away, cruiser, realizing these people needed help, went to their panic. In this case a fellow to pull them from the water and even though they both aid in his dinghy. He had life blue and not easy to spot. Also one of the men had a had life vests on, they were so it was slipping over his head. vest that was too big for him MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 www.ArubianPrincess.com Thomas Tel(340)690-0217 US$97,000 (needswork)LyingSt. sails, newreefer.Mustsell, rebuilt Detroitdiesel353,good collector, PVpanels,Air-X, w/work bench,hardbimini/rain peak, walk-inengineroom 2 heads,hugeaftcabin&fore- cockpit cruisingketch,3cabins, TRANSPAC 49,1980 Tel (868)739-6449 Sail Meter,1.9M/Euro,Trinidad, Meter MotorSailer,1.9M/US,38 Van derStadt,139K/US,24 35K/US, 36'Pearson,45K/US, Bavaria, 90K/US,34'SanJuan, 52' GrandSoleil,285K/US,44' 42' RogerSimpsonCat,98K/US, Cat, P.O.A.,45'Roberts97K/US, CMS YACHTBROKER [email protected] (246) 231-0464E-mail Yacht ClubUS$8,000Tel main, 5hpOB.AtBarbados lead keel,newjib&stackpack sandwich construction,elliptical FANCY SAILOR33'RACER, [email protected] (+596) 696-907429E-mail equipped. US$75,000Tel Well maintained,6berths,fully fortable andspaciousvessel. fiberglass hull,seaworthy,com- Martinique, recentlyrestored, 45' MOTORSAILER [email protected] Yannis Tel(784)458-8513E-mail condition. US$150,000Capt. Kawasaki Yards,Japan.Running Northern LightsGen.Built1967 130hp FordLehman,15kw Mahogany onOak&Teak, S/Y HURRICANE72'KETCH aeeSo atnqe53 55 50 18 50 49 Martinique Martinique 51 Antigua Curacao 26 Martinique 2 Trinidad 31 Caribbean Villas&Yachts 27 Caribbean StarAirlines Martinique Tortola Caribbean PropellersLtd. SintMaarten UnionIsand Carene Shop 53 34 Carenantilles 23 11 Caraibe Yachts USA Caraibe Greement Martinique Carriacou 4 BVI YachtSales Mustique Budget Marine Bequia Bougainvilla 15 Bogles RoundHouse 39 46 Blue SkyEnergy Bequia 46 7 Guadeloupe Bichik Services 8 Bequia SailingClub 34 Matinique PetiteMartinique Bequia BeachfrontVillas 42 St.Vincent Grenada Venezuela Basil’s Bar 50 Bas-du-Fort Marina Martinique 45 10 Barefoot YachtCharters Bahia RedondaMarina 39 Antigua B &CFuelDock Caribbean Trinidad AVP Yachting Antigua 34 Autremer Concept Art Fabrik Antigua ClassicRegatta UK Martinique Anjo Insurance Aikane Trinidad Admiral YachtInsurance AD Prints A&C YachtBrokers DETSRLCTO PG LOCATION ADVERTISER BOATS FORSALE , lying 72' Pwr Center foam sails, lyingJollyHarbour,Antigua. MOODY 422 US$299,000, Tel(603)205-1180Bob condition. LyingSt.Thomas upgraded galley,sailaway Yamaha 15,SSB,liferaftx2, Gen, A/C,Doylesails,newRIB, 2004/05, VolvoPenta40x2, 4 cabins/3heads,totalrefit 1 diesel inboard.LyingGrenada mast, rigging,sails.Yanmar Overhauled lastwinter.New GANS HUSTLER25.5, mail [email protected] US$25,000 ONOFormoreinfoE- Grenada Marinefor3years. dinghy/2hp OB.Onthehardat (needs survey),LochFynesailing covers, 8manEurovinylliferaft Danforth, almostnewawning/sail- 1/2" chain,110Bruce, Lofrans Falconwindlass,150'of heads, enclosedwheelhouse, masts, 4cabins,salon,galley,2 genset 6.5kw/110v,aluminum Perkins diesel,Northernlights KETCH, 52' HARTLEYTAHITIANSTAYSAIL mail [email protected] US$85,000 Tel(340)775-7898E- [email protected] USVI. Forequipmentlist/photos One owner,30years,daysailing 4-108, 2006survey."Ararefind!" cabin/trim, sprucespars,Perkins bronze fasteners,teak strip-planked Mahogany, aboard andoff-shoresailing, ship/Finisterre, readyforliving YAWL 39' SPARKMAN&STEPHENS (758) 489-4433 contact Mr.KhaninSt.LuciaTel Built 1964,Formoreinformation 50' DAYSAILINGCATAMARAN YC US$15,000Tel(473)443-2905 995 45'PRIVILEGECATAMARAN 1956, "Winifred",sister- ferrocement, 125hp , newengine, # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER rnd aieGeaa17 35 13 Grenada 47 39 47 St.Lucia Guadeloupe Bequia 20/35 Grenada Grenada 49 Bequia Grenada Marine 35 Grenada AroundIsland Fun SailTours 22 35 32 Friendship Rose Grenada Fred Marine Grenada Frangipani Hotel 35 Food Fair 55 Jamaica Bequia 5 Flying FishVentures USA 1 42 Flamboyant OwlBar 54 Grenada Flamboyant BeachsideTerrace Fernando's Hideaway Tortola 49 Trinidad Errol FlynnMarina Barbados Grenada Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Bequia 9 34 Doyle's Guides 48 Carriacou 30 Doyle OffshoreSails 51 Doyle OffshoreSails St.Maarten Martinique Down IslandRealEstate Dominica 42 40 Doris FreshFood Curaçao 22 Dopco Travel Dominica MarineCenter USA Martinique 23 Grenada Dockwise YachtTransportSarl St.Maarten Diesel Outfitters Diaka Laverie Curaçao Marine Mustique 53 Corea's FoodStoreMustique Cooper Marine Clarke's Court St.Lucia CIRExpress Caribbean YachtingJ.B.Inc 1977 berths, newdinghy,loadsof hrs. lovelyredwoodinterior,5 ging, goodsails,Volvo36hplow er, inUSVirginIslands.Newrig- WESTSAIL 32, E-mail: [email protected]. Bonaire. Seriousinquires Harbour VillageMarina ready tosail.Berthedin Serious Inquiriesonlyassheis mention here.Westress interior.. etctoo m Instrumentation, Sails,and 2005 UpdatesonRigging, Impeccably maintained, and readytocontinue. half bath.BlueWaterProven 2 cabinlayoutwith1full/1 Rigged Yacht,Pullmanberth 41 FT.HansChristian, [email protected] condition US$30,000E-mail wheel steering,lotsmore.Good jibs, 2mains,spinnaker,TV,CD, Yanmar 2GM20,newAwlgrip,2 PEARSON 30'BUILT1973 E-mail [email protected] charter. LyingGrenada,US$89K sailing oreasyconversiontoday able worldwidecruising,local Custom builtinFrance1992,suit- MARAN 42' ALUMINIUMSAILINGCATA- boat lovestogoweather! [email protected] formoreThis US$105K butmustsell.E-mail 2 heads.Reasonableat beautiful two-stateroominterior, condition, greataftcockpit, Autohelm, AirMarine.Excellent Tanton CT44,Autoprop, CRUISER FAST, STRONG,BLUEWATER Tel (473)440-3050 Club, St.Georges,Gda John Cawsey,GrenadaYacht Grenada £17,500Contact Marine Services,TrueBlue, owner illmustsell.SpiceIsland passages, strongconstruction, cruising yacht.3TransAtlantic BISCAY 36 Tel (+44-771)5705350 £73,000 ornearoffer,VATpaid. 27hp dieselauxilary, 1982 Semi-custom ADVERTISERS INDEX , longkeelocean proven worldcruis- CLASSIFIEDS uch to Cutter , new # DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER [email protected] Serious enquiresonly. ple/yachtsman. Ownerretiring. Would suitprofessionalcou- beautiful location. business, highlyrecomended, 10 years.Yearround Islands restaurantleaseforsale LEASE FORSALE [email protected] 409-0730/404-5795 E-mail engine. GrenadaTel(473) Yanmar, needssecond 30' PENNYAN mail [email protected] Aruba, pricedtosel!$20,000E- on deckandinterior.Lying operational, needscosmetics Excellent sailingproperties,fully solar panel,windpilot,etc. engine 2003,electricwindless, new mainsail,rebuilt GRP 37' VANDERSTADTDESIGNSLOOP mail [email protected] US$6,000 Tel(784)458-3656E- dinghy. LocatedinBequia ing condition,14hpOBengine& PEARSON 30'SLOOP1971 US$35,000 Tel(340)513-4668 equipment. Safeandcapable. [email protected] more info,contactTimE-mail islands, soldfullyfurnished.For terrace overlookingpool& bedrooms &2doubles,huge designer kitchen,2master 220 sq.mtrsoflivingarea, and blockof3slips.Apthas delightful 4bed,bathapt Bahia RedondaMarina, PUERTO LACRUZ,VENEZUELA Tel (473)418-3520 $10 sq/ft.Lovelyview,Ronnie access road,flatandsloping. GEORGES GRENADA, SPRINGS,ST, [email protected] rental available.E-mail fruit trees.US$320,000,Term land, fencedwithmature road -nostairs!12,558sqft of full kitchen,laundry,levelwith bedrooms, 1guestbedroom, yards frombeach.2master Lovely 1250sqft.cottage,100 FRIENDSHIP BAY,BEQUIA Tel (784)526-672 old US$2,500,Bequia,Robin 10hp, shortstem.6months inflatable floor&Yamaha 3DV RIBwithhighpressure RIB/OUTBOARD PROPERTY FORSALE rcl a aiaGeaa13 38 35 43 Grenada 24 Bequia Martinique PSV 41 39 53 48 Tortola Prickly BayMarina Venezuela Porthole Restaurant 6 Ponton duBakoua 39 21 Petit St.Vincent Antigua UK Trinidad 19 Peters &MayYachtShipping 47 48 Perkins Engines 9 45 Peake YachtBrokerage Grenada Grenada Tortola 49 Paradise BoatSales Northern LightsGenerators Bequia USA Azores Martinique 53 Navimca 54 St.Thomas Mid AtlanticYachtServices Bequia 21 McIntyre Bros.Ltd 43 Martins Marina 4 Grenada Maritime YachtSales St.Vincent Marine Travelift USA Maarten St. Mac's Pizza 33 St.Vincent 46 Lulley's Tackle 21 Le Ship 56 Latitudes &Attitudes 4 St.Lucia Grenada Lagoon MarinaHotel SintMaarten Martinique Lagoon Marina KP Marine JYA UK39/48 Bequia Johnson Hardware Island WaterWorld Island Dreams GRPro-Clean Iolaire Enterprises Grenadines Sails , builtinGermany1970, MISC. FORSALE 1 acre,soldwith One newdiesel lodestar 3.5M Grenadine E-mail In sail- DREAM SULTANT, PROTECTYOUR DISASTER MITIGATIONCON- In PLCTel(58)416-3824187 www.watercraftwatermaker.com Check ourpricesat and PuertoLaCruz,Venezuela. service availableatCuracao tems, membranes,sparesand WATERMAKERS moon. VHF16 5-6pm Moonlightpartyeveryfull ice. HappyHoureverydayfrom tank fill-up,personallaundryserv- Taxi serviceavailable,propane Eggs, bread,cheese,iceonsale. NIMROD’S RUMSHOP,GRENADA [email protected] interesting position.E-mail wife accomplishedchefwant RESORT SECURITYSPECIALIST E-mail [email protected] Cris Robinson(58)416-3824187 lems andyachtdeliveries.Tel ANCE SURVEYS, PUERTO LACRUZ,VENZ.INSUR- yacht workingtogetherasa per onboardbusycharter HOSTESS REQUIRED (473) 457-2951 MACHINE ARIES VANE,SAILRITESEWING E-mail [email protected] TOR FACILITY MANAGER/INSPEC- www.captainyannis.com [email protected] (784) 458-8513E-mail Lunch, Snorkelincl Mayero-Palm Island.Drinks, Island toTobagoCays- the year.SailoutofUnion CATAMARANS CAPT YANNISDAYTOUR www.creativesyndicateconsultants.com [email protected] cated CraftsmanE-mail season. CreativeSyndi- preventions beforestorm large structures,takecorrect neering, OHSAexperiencein ed in72hrs.25yearsengi- reports compiled&complet- ness/home prevention for resortsOSHAqualified , SERVICES WANTED # Caribbean busi- DETSRLOCATIONPG ADVERTISER electrical prob- S/V Pleiades Complete sys- Every dayof uded. Tel: to joinskip- ov aiiu 25 7 4 Marinique Venezuela 23 7 Bequia 34 St.Vincent Venezuela Martinique 16 17 Xanadu Marine Wallilabou Anchorage 8 44 Wallace &Co Grenada Grenada Volvo 46 8/51 Virgin Gorda 12 47 Voiles Assistance 43 Carriacou Virgin GordaYachtHarbour St.Vincent Vemasca Guadeloupe 50 Tyrrel BayYachtHaulout Grenada Bequia Germany Turbulence Sails True BlueBay 16 8 36 Trinidad Triskell CupRegatta 51 Trade WindsCruising Tikal Arts&Crafts 34 14 Grenada Thomas Peake&Sons Carriacou St.Thomas 14 44 SVG Air Tortola Guadeloupe Superwind St.Maarten St. ThomasYachtSales Martinique Spice IslandMarine 22 9 28 29 Soper's HoleMarina Simpson BayMarina Silver Diving Curaçao Schip-O-Case Bequia Sevenstar YachtTransport Aruba USA Sea Services Santa BarbaraResorts Salty DogSportsBar Renaissance Marina Quantum PureAire & [email protected] Fax: (784)457-3410or and theGrenadines. Box 175,Bequia,St.Vincent to: CompassPublishing,PO copy, photoandpayment be heldfornextissue.Send received afterdeadlinewill month ofissue.Copy month, precedingthe Deadline isthe15thofeach accompany order. Compass Publishingmust in EC$orUS$payableto International moneyorder half inch.Checkor EC$20/US$8 additionalper panying classifiedsare drawings/photos accom- numbers incount.Line include name,addressand EC$1/US 40¢perword– [email protected] Graham E-mail ence abenefit.Pleasecontact rience. Previoussalesexperi- tering &cooking/hostessexpe- team. Musthavesailing/char- BEAUTIFUL garbage properly!! CLASSIFIED ADS Dispose ofyour ISLANDS KEEP THE … # MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53

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Thank you for your letter which explains in detail some of your observations on Thank you for your letter for proper regulation of watercraft operators in the The Board recognizes the need of of St. Lucia (MIASL) along with the Ministry The Marine Industries Association a work with MIASL on continuing efforts such as The Ministry continues to the spirit in which they were We take your well-grounded suggestions on board in Every time we are anchored in the bay, there are two or three incidents a week. incidents a two or three bay, there are in the we are anchored Every time those get married on to have fun, sometimes Lucia to relax, come to St. Visitors and is a solution, However there you might say. to criticize, very well for me It’s all I sincere- observation and not a criticism. this is taken as a helpful I do hope that ST. LUCIA, RODNEY BAY MARINA TEL: (758) 458 4430 FAX: (758) 452 0742

Month’s Caribbean Yachting J. B. Inc BENETEAU 41S5JEANNEAU 35 92 03 $ 90 000 $ 90 000 NAUTICAT 52 84 E 230 000 BENETEAU 50 01 55S LAGOON CATA $ 219 000 VANDER STADT 46 $ 590 000 $ 75 000 PRINCESS 50 WAUQUIEZ 38 63” CATAMARAN $ 75 000 $ 550 000 35”RACING EXTREME HOUSE BOAT BENETEAU 38S5 $ 800 000 $ 75 000 $ 50 000 $ 50 000 BENETEAU 411 FROM $115 000 JEANNEAU 45.2 FROM $145 000 the water-related activities which took place during your recent anchorage at which took place during your recent anchorage the water-related activities Rodney Bay. several initiatives which will lead to a more structured area, but we are guided by redound to the safety of all users of the resource. use of Rodney Bay and will of on a way forward on the issue with the initial step Tourism have had discussions opportunity to regulate their own conduct. Ongoing allowing the operators an a has not resulted in a change in behaviour and so reports indicate self-regulation necessary. revisit of the issue became which has seen over 300 men and women operators com- coxswain training program on safe practices for jet ski plete the course, the acquisition of published material zones for specified uses, operation and the introduction of demarcated exclusion on increased co-ordina- among others. In addition, high level discussions continue Authority, Marine Police, tion between various agencies — St. Lucia Air & Sea Ports that will assure users of Ministry of Tourism & MIASL — to explore new measures fear for their safety or that our coastal waters, such as yourself, that they need not of others. on your subsequent kindly offered and hope that you will see marked improvements of the modes of oper- visits. We welcome hearing from you again on the effectiveness more specifically Rodney Bay ation and thank you for helping to keep St. Lucia and safe for everyone. Sincerely, Maria C. Fowell Director of Tourism St. Lucia Dear Ms. Morgan, beautiful sandy beaches, so romantic. They are not always people who understand not always They are so romantic. sandy beaches, beautiful holidays. enjoy their that they can respect, so sea commands that the all watersports boat contributed to by it’s a “no brainer”: One safety it’s so simple (The safety boat watercraft are out there. the bay whenever any operators, patrolling many visitors increase wind speed and be aware that rain squalls operators should EC dollars, the sake of a few thousand with these conditions.) For cannot cope surely blight the any fatalities that would be prepared and avoid Rodney Bay would this island paradise. reputation of a watchful eye, and that for the sake of words are empty warnings ly hope that my some pour soul towards Venezuela or not be drifting helplessly a watercraft would St. Lucia a top- is part of what keeps wonderful water playground drowning. This I am sure with your good offices and some much need- class holiday destination and way. ed regulation, it will stay that Yours sincerely, Barbara Morgan Yacht Phantasie —Continued 51 from page MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 30 29 -1April 29 26 -1April 24 -26 22 -25 22 21 -25 17 -18 17 16 -7April 15 -18 14 12 11 -12 10 -11 9 -12 9 -11 9 -11 9 -10 8 3 1 -4 MARCH directly forconfirmation. Compass All informationwascorrecttothebestof ourknowledgeatthetimethisissueof 30 29 -5May 28 -29 28 27 -29 26 25 -29 22 -28 22 21 -29 21 -22 21 20 -22 19 -24 19 17 14 12 -2May 9 -10 9 8 7 -9 6 -9 6 5 -9 5 -9 5 -9 5 -7 5 2 APRIL If youwouldlikeanauticalortourism eventlistedFREEinourcalendar, please sendthename anddate(s)oftheevent nameand Spiritual BaptistLiberationDay.PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago Transfer Day.PublicholidayinUSVI www.antiguayachtclub.com orcall(268)460-1799 entry formavailablefromNehesiaNichols,[email protected] Antigua MegaYachtChallenge,EnglishHarbour,Antigua.NORand 34th InternationalRolexRegatta,St.Thomas.www.rolexcupregatta.com Emancipation Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRico 5th St.JohnBluesfestival.www.stjohnbluesfestival.com (YCM), tel(596)632676,fax9448,[email protected] 16th Banana’sCupRegatta,Martinique.YachtClubdelaMartinique in Christiansted,St.Croix,USVI:http://stpatricksdayparadestcroixvi.com Grenada; 38thAnnualSt.Patrick'sDayParadeandCelebration St. Patrick’sDay.PublicholidayinMontserrat;FestivalPatrick’s, 12th AnnualTobagoGameFishingTournament.www.tgft.com National HeroesDay.PublicholidayinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines Commonwealth Day.Publicholidayinsomeplaces International OpenLaserChampionship.AYC www.antiguayachtclub.com tel/fax (268)460-1799,[email protected], Antigua InternationalLaserOpen.YachtClub(AYC), tel (284)4951002,fax495-4184,[email protected],www.weyc.net 8th Dark&StormyRegatta,BVI.WestEndYachtClub(WEYC),Tortola, Heineken CulebraInternationalRegatta,PuertoRico.www.sailcort.com (CNPR), tel(787)761-7541or863-3761 Bared InternationalRegatta,PuertoRico.ClubNáuticodeRico St. VincentBlues&RhythmsFestival.www.svgtourism.com International Women’sDay FULL MOON 27th St.MaartenHeinekenRegatta.www.heinekenregatta.com Queen’s Birthday.PublicholidayinNetherlands Antilles [email protected], www.ttsailing.org Sailing Assn.(TTSA),tel(868)634-4210/4519, fax(868)634-4376, 8th AnnualInt’lCancerBenefitRegatta,Trinidad.Trinidad&Tobago National Heroes’Day.PublicholidayinBarbados www.grenadagrenadines.com/fest.html 6th CarriacouMaroonMusicFestival. Guadeloupe toAntiguaRace.AYC Caribbean FilmFestival,St.Barts.www.st-barths.com St. ThomasUSVICarnival Earth Day Barbados CongalineCarnival Triskell TrophyRace,Guadeloupe. www.rbviyc.net Yacht Club(RBVIYC),tel(284)494-3286,fax494-6117, Virgin QueenPizzaPursuitRace,BVI.RoyalBritishIslands Tobago JazzFestival,Plymouth, See adonpage10. www.antiguaclassics.com. 20th AntiguaClassicYachtRegatta. Declaration ofIndependenceDay.PublicholidayinVenezuela José deDiegoDay.PublicholidayinPuertoRico Underwater Cleanup,Bonaire.www.dive-friends-bonaire.com Goat andCrabRaces,MountPleasantBuccooVillage,Tobago Easter Monday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Catamaran Marina,Antigua Easter Sunday.7thAnnualModelBoatRace, Virgin GordaEasterFestival 11th AnnualWahooTournament,BVI Spanish TownFisherman’sJamboreeand Good Friday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Easterval Festival,UnionIsland.(784)458-8350 See adonpage13. Grenada “Round-the-Island”EasterRegatta.www.aroundgrenada.com. See adonpage11. 26th BequiaEasterRegatta.www.bequiatourism.com. [email protected] (CNN), Martinique,tel(596)517324,fax:059670, Caribbean Cup(Optimists),Martinique.ClubNautiqueLeNeptune Annual CompassWriters’Brunch,[email protected] FULL MOON went topress—butplanschange,soplease contacteventorganizers www.transcaraibes.com. 40th AntiguaSailingWeek.www.sailingweek.com St. BartsBucketRace. BVI SpringRegatta&SailingFestival.www.bvispringregatta.org 8th TranscaraïbesGuadeloupetoCubaRace/Rally. contact information oftheorganizingbodyto: St. MaartenCarnival • [email protected], or CALENDAR • fax(784)457-3410 See adonpage12. MARCH 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55