July 2009 No

Home , Aquarius 21, Archambault A40, Basseterre, Dart (dinghy), Dinghy, Hurricane Klaus

C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS JULY 2009 NO. 16666 TheThe CCaribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

WEST INDIES REGATTA See story on page 12 JUSTIN SIHERA JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4

STEPHANE LEGENDRE ELLEN SANPERE The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore ot aiba al ..... 15 North Caribbeanrally ...... 10th Transcaraïbes 14 Canouan Regatta ...... Grenadine Scene Cruzans partyforcoral ‘Reef Jam’09’ Sailors’ Horoscope Island Poets 33 ...... Word SearchPuzzle 32 ...... Cruising Crossword Book Reviews 31 ...... 30 Cruiser Profile ...... Meridian Passage 20 ...... 16 Regatta News...... 11 Eco-News ...... 8 Business Briefs ...... See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissions [email protected]. Caribbean Compass [email protected] Dominica MarineCenter,Tel:(767)448-2705, Dominica: Tel: (5999)4627733 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel/Fax: (246)423-4600 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)720-6868 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410 Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass AdSales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution-BudgetMarineCuraçao Distribution - Doyle Sails Distribution-DoyleSails Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution -HubertJ.Winston welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes,maybemadewithoutwritten permissionofCompassPublishingLtd. ©2009 CompassPublishingLtd.Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction, copyortransmissionofthispublication, supplied byothercompanies. Compass PublishingLtd.acceptsnoliabilityfordelayeddistributionor printingqualityastheseservicesare responsibility foranystatementsmadetherein.Lettersandsubmissions maybeeditedforlengthandclarity. sole responsibilityoftheadvertiser,writerorcorrespondent,andCompass PublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! is published monthly by ispublishedmonthlyby www.caribbeancompass.com JULY 2009•NUMBER166 ...... 33 ...... 32 ...... 10 ...... DEPARTMENTS But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the Butthecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandlettersto editorarethe [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448, Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: 868)634-2622Mob:(868)620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (599)5533850,[email protected] Distribution -EricBendahan [email protected] Mob: +590(0)6904945 What’s onMyMind Readers’ Forum 38 ...... 36 Cooking withCruisers ...... The CaribbeanSky 35 ...... 34 Dolly’s DeepSecrets ...... Cruising Kids’Corner 34 ...... 33 Cartoons ...... Advertisers’ Index 47 ...... 47 Classified Ads ...... 44 Caribbean Marketplace...... ikn f aa...... 36 A sinkingoffSaba ...... Going Down… What’s bestinthewest Cuba Updates 20 10 funthingstodo ...... Trini Time! Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik AdSales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Ad Sales-StéphaneLegendre St. Maarten/St.Barths/Guadeloupe: [email protected] Tel: (758)484-0555, St. Lucia: [email protected] Tel: (0596)596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Cell: (473)457-2151Office:444-3222 Ad Sales&Distribution-KarenMaaroufi Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Distribution-GladysJones Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution-BryanLezama Distribution -LisaKessell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado AdSales&Distribution-IsabellePrado ...... 42 ...... 22 ......

Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales-DebraDavis, SUZANNE AUSTIN SUZANNE Cover photobyJustinSihera, West IndiesRegatta2009 31 [email protected] 31 30 –1Aug 29 www.yoles-rondes.org 27 26 –3Aug 26 –2Aug 25 -27 25 24 -26 24 21 20 -21 20 18 14 YachtClub(RBVIYC),tel(284)494-3286,[email protected],www.rbviyc.net 11 -Aug1 11 –19 11 &theGrenadines.www.carnivalsvg.com 10 -12 10 7 CarnivalinSt.John,USVI 6 –7 (Emancipation 6 (WEYC),Tortola,BVI,tel(284)495-1002,fax495-4184, 4 Day) [email protected], 3 -4 3 www.weyc.net 2 1 JULY www.sanjuaninternational.com 31 30 TrinidadtoStoreBay,Tobago 28 –3Sept 24 22 16 15 –16 15 10 -11 10 6 5 St.Kitts&Nevis,TurksCaicos,andBarbados(KadoomentDay) 4 (Emancipation 3 –4 Jamaica,St.Lucia,Vincent&theGrenadines,and Trinidad&Tobago 3 Festival) 1 1 AUGUST [email protected] FULL MOON IndependenceDay(USA).Publicholiday CuraçaoFlagDay.Publicholiday Public holiday PublicholidayinJamaica(IndependenceDay) Culturama.PublicholidayinNevis FULL AugustMonday.PublicholidayinTheBahamas,Dominica,Montserrat, MOON EmancipationDaySailingRaces,St.Lucia.SLYC EmancipationDay.PublicholidayinBarbados,Grenada,Guyana, If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismevent listedFREEinourmonthlycalendar, arao hlrnsEuainFn olc abce CarriacouChildren’sEducationFundPotluckBarbecue, JoséCelsoBarbosa’sBirthday.Publicholiday ConstitutionDay.Publicholiday BirthofSimónBolívar.PublicholidayinVenezuela SchoelcherDay.Publicholiday LuisMuñozRivera’sBirthday.Publicholiday BastilleDay.Publicholiday IndependenceDay.Publicholiday IndependenceDay.Publicholiday inTrinidad FeastofSt. RoseDeLima,St.Lucia.Culturalfolkfestival Festivalof St.Barthelemy,Barth.Boatraces GreatRace (powerboats)fromChaguaramas, Restoration Day.PublicholidayinDominicanRepublic Feastofthe Assumption.PublicholidayinHaitiandFrenchWestIndies Constitution Day.PublicholidayinAnguilla contact informationoftheorganizingbody [email protected] 17thAnnualFirecracker500 Race,Tortola,BVI.WestEndYachtClub

PublicholidayinAntigua&Barbuda(AntiguaCarnival)andBVI RebellionDays.Publicholiday USVILifestyleFestival,St.Thomas.www.usvimf.com St.LuciaCarnival.www.luciancarnival.com Premier’sCupYouthRegatta,Tortola.RoyalBritishVirginIslands GrenadaCarnival.Publicholidayin CaribbeanDinghyChampionships, [email protected] All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledgeattime please sendthenameanddate(s)of eventandthename arao hlrnsEuainFn hrt uto, Carriacou Children’sEducationFundCharityAuction, Somer’s Day. Calabash Festival,Montserrat.www.visitmontserrat.com Volcano Anniversary. Bequia’s 14thAnnualFisherman’sDay,[email protected] St. VincentCarnival(VincyMas). Public holiday Emancipation Day.Publicholiday TobagoHeritageFestival.Tel(868)639-4441

44thAnnualCarriacouRegattaFestival.www.carriacouregatta.com 25th editionTourdesYolesRondes,Martinique.www.tourdesyoles.com 6hSnJa nentoa ilihTunmn,Pet io 56thSanJuanInternationalBillfishTournament,PuertoRico. so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectly forconfirmation. Canouan Carnival.Tel(784)458-8197 this issueof

Public holiday

in CaymanIslands(ConstitutionDay)andGuyana in Antigua(VereBirdSr.Day)andSuriname(Eid-ul-Fitr) Compass CALENDAR

Public holiday wenttopress—butplanschange,

in FrenchWestIndies

in Bermuda

in Cuba

in FrenchWestIndies in PuertoRico

Public holiday

in Curaçao in USVI

in TheBahamas

in Montserrat

in PuertoRicoandUSVI.

in PuertoRico

nS.Vnet in St.Vincent JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5

MAYAPARADISE.COM • Only when departing to a foreign port: US$10 (or to a foreign port: • Only when departing with the form, to be filled out A new vessel entrance Rio Dulce Situation Report the official hurricane sea- Ann Westergard reports: As —Continued on next page Republic or arrives in the country by plane and is sign- in the country by plane Republic or arrives crew list ing on or off the Letter, Dominican Pesos) for a Dispatch equivalent in paid to the Navy reportedly in passenger information, is vessel, crew and authori- will be given to all governmental the works. This as proof to the captain of the vessel ties and one copy mari- when traveling between of entry and clearance is currently being devel- nas in the DR. This document be approved by theoped by the marinas and must it comes into use. Dominican Port Authority before boats crossed the bar to son arrived, more and more Rio Dulce in Guatemala. their summer quarters up the Guatemala’s Rio Dulce area is a popular summertime destination for cruisers in the Western Caribbean. We take a look at what’s going on there now

DR Eases Yacht Clearance Procedures DR Eases Yacht Clearance are cited by Cumbersome clearance procedures In addition, yachts entering the DR at a private mari- All payments are to be made to the marinas directly • Five percent of the vessel’s dockage fee before • US$10 for each passenger on the vessel (excluding • US$16 (or 500 Dominican Pesos) for each crew- yachtsmen as one of the main turn-offs when select- yachtsmen as one of the main to a campaign by the ing a destination. Responding in the Dominican marine-related private sector now allows Republic, that country’s government Ports of entry now yachts to clear in at marinas. Chica (18°25.50N, include Marina Zar-Par/Boca Campo (18°24’N, 69°36.67W), Marina Casa de 69°53’W), Punta 68°55’W), Santo Domingo (18°28’N, Las Salinas (18°16’N, Cana (18°32’N, 68°22’W) and and Puerto Plata 71°19’W) on the south coast, World Marina (19°50N, (19°49’N, 70°42’W), Ocean Marina/Luperón 70°43’53”W) and Puerto Blanco (19°55’N, 70°56’W) on the north coast. na will not be boarded by numerous government officials — the captain will do the paperwork in the marina office. (One Navy representative with one other official can search the vessel if there has been a report of suspicious activity.) The captain must inform the marina, giving his name, vessel’s name and the number of passengers on board, any time the yacht leaves the marina. and a receipt will be given when the yacht leaves the marina. Fees are as follows: tax, charged by the Port Authority. This covers cruising permits up to 90 days the crew), paid to Immigration member or passenger that leaves the Dominican

& Updates & Info JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Spend theafternoonwithmahjonggorinternet, that inthemorning,thenshoporhavelunchtown. “rub-and-scrub”. Inacivilizedlife,you’dtakecareof advantage oflowlaborratesforthenever-ending always boatwork,whetheryoudoityourselfortake beyond. Andyou’llbedoingalotinSpanish. items you’llbelookingtowardsGuatemalaCity,or These aren’treallyfull-blowntowns;forspecialized Fronteras, orinRellenoontheothersideofbridge. getting groceriesinstreetmarketsandsmall able yeartoyear.Shoppingisdifferent,too.You’llbe which cancoolthingsdownalittle,seemsquitevari- easily discernablepatterns.Thesummerrainyseason, real head-spinner.Theclimatehasnotradewindsor upsurge inbusinessatthesummer’send. liveaboard presence.Everyone’shopingforan than inpreviousyears,leavingaquieterusual here, thepeoplehaveflownhomeingreaternumbers ment recentlyheardisthat,althoughtheboatsare common-sense safetyprecautionsshouldbetaken. no governmentalpolicepresence,andtheusual anchorages intheGolfeteandLakeIzabal.Herethereis mouth oftheriver,hasareputation,asdosomeisolated with suchdiscrepanciesinincome.Livingston,atthe goods continuestobeaconcern,asitiseverywhere few incidentsrecently. their ownsecurityforces,andtherehavebeenvery mouth ofLakeIzabal.Severalmarinashaveadded Marina, theFronterasBridgeanduptowards of theriverin“marinamile”betweenMario’s Guatemalan Navyinstigateda24-hoursafetypatrol front ofeveryone’smind.Inresponse,the an anchoredvessellastsummer,securitywasatthe do without! boaters findtherisksareacceptable,orbuyarider, the averagehurricanewouldloseitspunch.Most shielded bymountainsandfarenoughinlandthat cane-safe location.It’snotoutofthe“zone”butitis Rio Dulceisnotafullyinsurable,guaranteedhurri- have beenuptheriverforyears. don’t allblowin,orout,atthesametime,andsome involved inthismigration,althoughtheycertainly How tooccupyyourupriverhours?Well,there’s For thefirst-timevisitor,comingtoRioDulceisa The marinasarefillingupwithboats,butonecom- Theft ofoutboards,cockpitelectronicsandunsecured After ashockingmurder/robberyattemptaboard It isalsotruethatforsomeinsurancecompanies,the It hasbeenestimatedthat400to500boatscanbe — Continued frompreviouspage tiendas in Transcaraïbes Rally2009onpage15. in theDominicanRepublic. an interimstopatCasadeCampo delivered gratisbytheyachtsafter Rotary ClubofSt.Martin,and collected bytheRedCrossand al sailingevent.Thesupplieswere Haiti, duringtwolegsoftheannu- the orphanageonIleàVache, other materialfromSt.Martinto of schoolsupplies,clothingand Guadeloupe toCubacarriedtons Transcaraïbes YachtRallyfrom participants inthe2009 one hadaspecialmission.InApril, and camaraderie,butthisyear Haitian Orphanage www.svargo.com. com, www.sv-moira.comand check outhttp://svsoggypaws. blogs. Ifyou’recomingthisway (under construction). www.cruiserlog.com/wiki/index.php?title=Guatemala http://riodulcechisme.com, http://inriodulce.comand ral attractions,andtheRioDulceisjustbeginning. one’s list.Guatemalaisabeautifulcountryfullofnatu- although thereareothers.LakeAtitlanisonevery- is famousforbeingitself,andlanguageschools, wonderful extra-nightdestination,abitfurther.Antigua Honduras, isamerethreehoursaway,andTikal, travel tosomeofthefamoustemples:Coban, Airline’s bargainfarestoflyaway.Or,there’sinland of asafelyparkedandlooked-afterboattouseSpirit and thecanyonatBoqueron. tions suchasthehot-runningwaterfallatFincaParaiso cuts andmanicures,daytripstonearbyattrac- Saturday swapmeet,occasionalLadies’Daysofhair- social lifefeaturesmovienights,musica do thattakesallday,untilLaHoraFelice!Thecruiser the greatnovel,guitarpractice,orwhateveritisyou See a full report on the See afullreportonthe Yacht ralliesareabouttravel Transcaraïbes RalliersDeliverto Some fellowcruisershavegreat For moreinformationvisithttp://mayaparadise.com, If you’reaboard,thatis.Youmighttakeadvantage deliveredtonsofclothingandothersuppliestotheSt.FrancisorphanageinHaiti Yachts participatinginthe10thAnnualTranscaraibesRally England. son ofamastermarinertookupsailingasboyin industry as“HotScrews”forhisluckwiththeladies,this Universally knowntoothersinthefledglingyachting gone. RichardScott-HughesdiedonApril20th. La Royalecanclearinatthemarinas. Euros. YachtsstayingatMarinaFort-Louisand Marigot Bayonlywillbechargedanadditional20 and tenEurosforthoselonger.Yachtanchoringin ance feeisfiveEurosforboatslessthan56feetlong, the Immigrationofficeatferrycomplex.Theclear- keyboards) areavailableforyachtspeopletousein involves paperforms.Twocomputers(withFrench

before orsince. dinghies in1947atage14,afeatnotachieved Yet anotherpioneerofCaribbeanyachtcharteringis Eight Bells:RichardScott-Hughes Yacht clearanceatMarigot,St.Martin,nolonger French St.Martin’sClearanceNowPaperless He wontheHardWeatherCupinSeaview —Continued onnextpage JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 Grenada For more information phone (0281) 281-7469. Plus, there is a special downloadable “Kitchen Sink special downloadable “Kitchen Plus, there is a at www. WomenandCruising.com. Check it all out Venezuela Exhibition in Puerto La Cruz, Marine Photo by the marine biologist An exhibition of photographs the Deep Blue), pays homage to the ocean. The 28 photographs, in color and black-and-white, are available for purchase, and their sale will benefit the marine and coastal conservation work of Fundacion La Tortuga. Swan Neal, Judy Knape and Lynda Childress, as well Knape and Lynda Childress, Swan Neal, Judy Cruising principals Kathy Parsons,as Women and Pam Wall and Sylvie Branton. Gwen Hamlin, for a that will help those shopping Galley Checklist” features of to identify and evaluate new or used boat various boat galleys. José Voglar is being and professional photographer Fundacion La Tortuga on shown through July 31st at Coconut Center) in Fermín Toro Street (near the Admission is free. Lechería, Puerto la Cruz, Venezuela. Profundo (On the Edge of The show, Al Borde del Azul You can catch the exhibition of marine photos in Puerto Le Cruz until You can catch the exhibition of marine photos in Puerto the end of the month At the time of the incident, the Portsmouth Area the incident, the Portsmouth At the time of said that the new din- Jeff Frank, Chairman of PAYS, Cruisers’ Site-ings a website WomenandCruising.com — The contributors are loosely sorted into Yacht Security (PAYS) sole patrol boat provided a (PAYS) sole patrol boat provided Yacht Security in the from sunset to dawn, but only security patrol Bay. Since of the extensive Prince Rupert northern part a sec- of Dominica has given then, the Government of boat to PAYS for the purpose ond security patrol yacht vis- and safety of the many ensuring the security the Minister Douglas commended itors to the bay. Association Indian River Tour Guides members of the the years in PAYS, for their work over and its offshoot, the yachting industry in helping to build and protect the peak season up to the town of Portsmouth. During at Prince Rupert Bay, 60 yachts at a time anchor of several new which has spawned the establishment needs. businesses to cater for their to patrol a ghy will allow PAYS members well as to larger portion of the Bay “as with assist local emergency authorities thereby help- search and rescue missions, ing to secure the safety of visitors”. the 17.8-foot Funding for the purchase of the European security dinghy came from Framework Commission under the Special of Assistance (SFA) 2006. and inspira- providing advice, resources just added tion for women cruisers — has a new feature article called “Galley Advice from 18 Cruising Women”. Experienced contributors answer questions about galley design and equipment, reflect on the challenges and rewards of cooking at sea, and recommend cook- books and share recipes that have served them well. four categories: Coastal Cruisers and Island Hoppers, who have more ready access to regional markets and who cook mostly at anchor; Catamaran Cruisers, who cook on boats that don’t heel; Long Distance Cruisers, who provision for long passages and cook often at sea; and Cruising Charter Chefs. Contributors to the current article are Ann Vanderhoof, Heather Stockard, Lisa Schofield, Mary Heckrotte, Barbara Theisen, Corinne Kanter, Truus Sharp, Betsy Baillie, Diana Simon, Marcie Lynn, Sheri Schneider, Amanda M/V Don Alejandro José Data from this buoy should administrative and logistical administrative and logistical support throughout the process. The Maritime Police Unit of the Ponce Municipal Police provided navigation- al assistance for buoy emplacement. be representative of conditions along the Caribbean coasts of Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands. Data will be useful to mariners in general and will also be employed in validating numerical models of ocean conditions. The data collected by the buoy is currently undergoing quality control and will be available online shortly at www.caricoos.org. Information, please! This new buoy off Puerto Rico will provide realtime data on winds, waves, currents, sea- water temperature and salinity. Data will be useful to mariners in general and will also be employed in validating numerical models of ocean conditions , a , a Boekaneer to victory in See related story Illusion China Clipper that they are in contact with Compass The police and the coast guard near the Puerto Rico insular shelf break about 1.4 nautical miles south- near the Puerto Rico insular shelf break about 1.4 nautical Continued from previous page Continued from Yacht Attacked in Portsmouth, Dominica; Yacht Attacked in Portsmouth, Security Improved three swimmers In the early hours of May 14th, The crew freed themselves and motored their yacht The victims tell Caja de Muertos is an uninhabited, 2.7-mile-long island located about 5 miles off Caja de Muertos is an uninhabited, 2.7-mile-long island Association for CarICOOS is the observing arm of the Caribbean Regional of Maine designed, fabri- The Physical Oceanography Group at the University Navigation Note: New Data Gathering Buoy Off Puerto Rico Navigation Note: New Data Gathering Buoy Off Puerto CariCOOS Data Buoy A was launched from the barge In 1963 Scott-Hughes returned to England before sail- In 1963 Scott-Hughes returned In 1960 he skippered the charter yacht In 1960 he skippered boarded a yacht anchored in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica. The yacht was anchored off the town of Portsmouth, close to the Customs dock near the Picard River. The men, armed with a gun, a machete and a knife, bound and gagged the two-person crew, beat them, ransacked the boat in a search for cash and valuables, and destroyed the VHF radio. The men then stole the yacht’s dinghy to get ashore. to the nearest other yacht for help. ( the International One Ton Cup in Germany. the International One Ton Cup on page 41.) the police and, contrary to some reports, no suspects are in custody as of this writing (June 16th) and aside from the dinghy no stolen items have yet been recovered. responded within 20 minutes. Dominica’s Minister for Tourism, Ian Douglas, and the president of the Dominica Marine Association, Hubert Winston, have visited the victims to assure them of police progress and to offer whatever assistance is needed. Padilla 51.61’N, 66° 31.43’W. southeast of Caja de Muertos island on June 9th at 17° in 1887 and Puerto Rico’s south coast. Caja de Muertos Light, established automated in 1945, sits atop the highest hill on the island. This effort is one of 11 Integrated Coastal Ocean Observing (http://cara.uprm.edu). along with US federal coastal observing systems and regional associations which, of the US Integrated Ocean agencies, constitute the national coastal component the US Caribbean region. Observing System. This is the first coastal data buoy for and continues to pro- cated and tested the buoy, assisted in buoy emplacement at Mayaguez provided vide technical support. The University of Puerto Rico 60-foot Alden schooner, and married his childhood schooner, and married his 60-foot Alden Few-Brown. For their honeymoon sweetheart, Jenny chartered Antigua, where the boat they set sail for being able agency. He took pride in with Nicholson’s reportedly harbours under sail, and was to enter most George’s yacht skippers to enter St. one of the first Later when a cut was first dredged. Lagoon, Grenada, Services and of Grenada Yacht he became manager Grenada. Adrian Volney, then Spice Island Charters in at GYS, says, “Richard is who stepped into his shoes the best yacht charter well remembered as one of had the gift of the gab agents in the Caribbean. He numerous guests from all and sold the islands well to Richard, Grenada was put over the world. Because of of one of the best on the map as the final destination charters from north to charter grounds. We all sold and called it the ‘sleigh- south through the Windwards this.” ride south’. Richard pioneered in ing across the Atlantic again He also raced in Newport 52-foot Chinese-built yacht. in the 1960s, and in the to Bermuda and Fastnet races 1970s skippered the British yacht — JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 (“floating garage”),wheretheycandoallrepairsand competitive rates. work performedonyourboatbyrealprosatvery from themarketsandshoppingcenters,have bay ofSt.George’s,onlyminutesawaybydinghy refills. Youcanbeanchoredinthecalmandbeautiful GBS eventakecareofyourlaundryandcookinggas fiberglass, polishing,varnishing,andunderwaterwork. (including fridgeandA/C),weldingfabrication, out. GBSareexpertsinenginemechanics,electricity work onanyboat,aslongitdoesn’trequirehauling English, FrenchandSpanishcandovirtuallyany charter andwatersportsindustry.Theyspeakperfect many yearsandondifferentislandsintheyacht able andfriendlyteamthathasbeenworkingfor Marina, offersyoutheservicesofaprofessional,reli- full conciergeservice,inSt.George’sLagoon! wide rangeoftechnicalyachtservicesalongwitha GBS alsohasaDinghyClinic Grenada BoatServices,locatedatPortLouis What’s newinGrenada?Acompanyofferinga New intheLagoon:GrenadaBoatServices Port LouisMarina–anothergreatreasontovisitGrenada Port As a Port of Entry, it’s easy to clear in and out through Port Louis, and our 24-hour security, ofEntry,As aPort it’s Louis,andour24-hour easytoclearinandoutthroughPort ITALY |MALTA |TURKEY in theCaribbean. www.cnportlouismarina.com Grenada remainsoneofthemostunspoiltandwelcomingcruisingdestinations Grenada’s locationallows foryear-roundcruising,includingthesummermonths, southern Now, Louis,visitingyachtscanenjoythesecurityandconvenience withPort to theisland’s capital,StGeorge’s. dockside facilitiesandmarina-widewi-ﬁallcontribute tomakingyourstaysafeandrelaxed. islandsoftheGrenadines. exploring thewonderful justﬁvemilesaway, airport and withaninternational Louisistheideal basefor Port marina–locatedinthelagoonadjacent of abeautifullyappointed,fullyserviced BRIEFS BUSINESS

on theirdrydock WEST INDIES

responsible fortheday-to-dayoperationsofmari- ing theRenaissanceMarinasince2005.Shewillbe Marine Services,thecompanythathasbeenmanag- even findingwormsforahome-schoolproject. als, andapartmentsforcrew,inoneinstance, fuel, findingtechniciansofvariousspecialties,carrent- the vessel.Sheisalsoonetoturnwheninneedof the marinasheisfirstpersononeseeswhentyingup face oftheRenaissanceMarinainAruba.Forguests Xiomara Jansen(betterknownasXJ)hasbeenthe to discussyourneeds. George’s, Grenada,andvisitGrenadaBoatServices season andhavesomerepairstodo,considerSt. shopping advice. tours, funactivitiesandrestaurant tion aboutthingstodo,placessee,carrentals, state, popintotheirofficegatherusefulinforma- sonable price. turn yourolddinghyintoabrand-newoneforrea- As ofJune1st,XJbecameapartnerinEastWind Over thelast12years,formanyvisitingyachts ‘XJ’ NowManagementPartneratArubaMarina For moreinformationseeadonpage10. If youdon’tyetknowwheretospendthehurricane Even ifyourboatanddinghyareinaperfect Port LouisMarina–justonemorereasontovisitthe‘SpiceIsland’. Port Danny Donelanon+1(473)[email protected] Louis,includingtheopportunity atPort aboutsecuringaberth For moreinformation LouisisownedandoperatedbyCamper&NicholsonsMarinas,ourfriendly Port to purchase on a 30-year licence,pleasecontactourSalesandMarketingCo-ordinator, to purchaseona30-year from 20ftto300ft. and knowledgeable staff areonhand24hoursadaytowelcomeyachtsofallsizes and knowledgeablestaff ciation’s President,JeffBoyd. Sint MaartenhurtingMaarten,”declaredtheasso- world isnothurtingSintMaarten,thisdeclinedueto ing yachtsthatcausedthedramaticdownturn.“The Bay LagoonAuthority’s(SLAC)exorbitantfeesforvisit- global economicrecession,butrathertheSimpson island. SMMTAmembersagreedthatitwasnotthe enced bythemarineindustryonDutchsideof 28th focusedontheseveredeclinebeingexperi- Maarten MarineTradesAssociation(SMMTA)onMay Harm St.Maarten up to121/2feet,andhasachandleryonpremises. Renaissance Marinawelcomesallyachtswithdraftsof guests ofthemarinaasonlyshecan. na andthechandlery,willcontinuetoassist —Continuedonnextpage industry intheCaribbean,whichisdrivenbypassion. recession hasnothadabigeffectontheyachting because oftheeconomicrecession.The but St.Maartenisdroppinglikeastone…anditnot stated, “Comparativedestinationsaredoinggreat, pared tothelowoccupanciesonDutchside. occupancies ontheFrenchsideoftheirislandcom- cent. SMMTAmembersalsopointedoutthehigh company inAntiguahaddroppedbyonlyfourper- dropped by29percentinthisperiod,butitssister gers reportedthatitsactivityinSt.Maartenhad a dropof40percentcomparedtolastyear.FKGrig- Bay Diesel(dieselenginesupplyandservice)showed Maarten decreasedby19and20percent.Simpson other territories,yettheirtwomajorpropertiesinSt. showed nodecreaseinactivityattheirmarinas branches inotherterritories.IslandGlobalYachting while therewasnodecreasereportedfromtheir for saleofmarineproductsattheirSt.Maartenshops, World bothshoweddecreasesof20percentormore of thepreviousyear. months ofAprilandMay2009withthesame companies thatvolunteeredstatistics,comparingthe exceeded thatofotherterritories.Thisisborneoutby tained thedeclineofyachtinginSt.Maartenfar Maarten’s English-languagenewspaper,SMMTAmain- According toareportin The 2009AnnualGeneralMeetingoftheSt. Marine TradesGroupSaysHighFees For moreinformationseeadonpage6. Located inthecenterofOranjestad,Aruba, Budget Marine’sgroupmanager,RobbieFerron, Marine chandleriesBudgetandIslandWater The DailyHerald , St. JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 And just up the hill, in a 250-year-old building, visit hill, in a 250-year-old building, And just up the George’s, NEW old Young Street, St. Check out the and Art Fabrik see ad For more information on Tikal You to Cuba Santiago Marina Welcomes looking for a safe place Many sail and powerboats The marina at Santiago provides a warm welcome to the southeastern region of Cuba Art Fabrik Batik Boutique and Workshop, for inspired Boutique and Workshop, Art Fabrik Batik Caribbean accessories, jewelry and fashion, exciting are made Hand-painted batik creations art and craft. It is fasci- the studio is open to visitors. right there, and first-hand. the intriguing batik process nating to see crafts, unique fashion, great arts and Grenada, for in a superb local delicacies, all set good music and interest. area of historic pages 43 through 45. in the Market Place section, the hospitable Santiago de in the Caribbean come to located at 19°52´18¨N and Cuba International Marina, to the historic and beau- 75°56´35¨W, at the entrance in colonial times was the tiful bay of Santiago, which conquest of other starting point for the Spanish American territories. —Continued on page 42 . PM Just adjacent, in Across from the works from more than 80 local and overseas artists. another historic building, is Tikal, “the first tourist shop in town”. This arts and crafts shop, named after the ancient Mayan city in Guatemala, first opened its doors 50 years ago and offers art, jewelry, clothing and much more from local handicrafters and from around the world. museum, through an old courtyard and upstairs, is the Yellow Poui Art Gallery, named after the “yellow poui” tree whose third flowering fore- tells the coming of the rainy season. The gallery exhibits

JEFF FISHER Upstairs is the wonderful new Museum Bistro for wonderful new Museum Bistro Upstairs is the After browsing some art, the Pebbles Jazz and Blues on the corner of the side street leading to the famous of the side street leading to on the corner built in sits the majestic Antilles Building, Sendall Tunnel, barracks, a used as French military 1704. It has been a hotel. in the early 20th century, British prison, and, on offers cultural activities The museum now at 5:00 Friday evenings beginning Wednesday and Here local artists display a variety of talent, offering display a variety of talent, Here local artists into Grenadian life. yet another window and take- coffee, lunch specials tapas, cool drinks, relax and look over the away. It’s great place to sit, balconies once used by bustling street from cast-iron and French and British rich estate owners, governors, sea captains. Club, on the deck in the courtyard, is a perfect place to wind down with refreshments while listening to a variety of local and visiting musicians. will be work-

There’s lots of new life in old St. George’s, Grenada. The Grenada National Museum, “Gateway to things New on Young Street in Historic St. George’s New on Young Street in Historic For more information on the SMMTA For more information on the The St. Maarten Marine Trades Association, which Marine Trades Association, The St. Maarten Continued from previous page Continued from Grenadian”, is housed in a structure steeped in history: Grenadian”, is housed in a structure steeped in history: halfway up Young Street from the Carenage harbor, Forever Young. It’s quiet on a Sunday, but at any other time Young Street is the place to be Forever Young. It’s quiet on a Sunday, but at any other in St. George’s, Grenada visit www.smmta.com. ing with the St. Maarten government and SLAC offi- Maarten government and ing with the St. the issue of high fees. cials to address was founded in 1994 to promote St. Maarten as a pre- in 1994 to promote St. Maarten was founded major for yachts of all sizes, represents mier destination Dutch and marine industry both from the names in the of the island. The SMMTA the French sides — fees going down because of exorbitant St. Maarten is clearly going elsewhere.” and yachts are JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 Reef Jam2009: according totheVirginIslandsNetworkofEnvironmentalEducators(VINE). destroying thisvaluableasset,andeducationisthefirststepinreversingthattrend, have atremendousfinancialimpactonourworldanditspeople.Humanis that drawtouristsandmitigatewindstormdamagetothecoastline—allofwhich enthusiasts. Healthycoralreefsenablehealthyfisheries;theyprotectthebeaches fund amini-grantprogramformarine-relatededucationandconservationprojects. that mix,alongwithattractionsforallages,asReefJam2009raisedUS$10,000,to waters, volleyballandgreatmusic.OnMay24th,asmallentrancefeewasaddedto with beach-goersonSundayafternoons,attractedbywhitesandsandcalmlee-side beach-goers andentertainingmusiclovers. with afundraisingefforttobenefitthecoralreefsofislandwhileeducating Croix’s variousenvironmentallyorientedgroups,haveputtogetheralloftheabove are required,andparksorbeachespreferredvenues. one dayoffunandrelaxationwithfamilyfriends.Barbecues,gamesmusic those whohavesacrificedtheirlivesinthenation’swars,accompaniedbyatleast for 2010! by nextyear. make ReefJamanannualeventandhope toestablishitsnon-profit(501-c-3)status as theirfiduciary,andLangjahrthanked themforthequalityoftheirservices. youth environmentalconservationgroups, andmore. themed murals,creatingenvironmentaleducation awarenessmaterials,establishing to befundedinclude:organizingbeach/waterwaycleanups,designingmarine- grants tofundmarine-relatededucationandconservationprojects.Possibleprojects tions, andindividualsareinvitedencouragedtoapplyforsmall(US$500-$2,500) dent organizations,civicgroups,governmentornon-governmentagencies/organiza- the 2009ReefJamMini-GrantProgram:St.Croixcommunitygroups,schoolor stu- than 60volunteers,and“goodenergy.” ments withinformationonfishingseasons,reefprotectionandsnorkelclinics. snorkel gearandclinicsforreefsafety,publicserviceradioannounce- and volunteertimetotheevent,whichraisedUS$7,000.Thefundswereused for ment wasexactlyzero,butlocalbusinessesandcommunitygroupsdonatedfunds and otherinterestedindividuals.TheeffortbecameReefJam2008.Initialinvest- was gearingupforInternationalYearoftheReef2008,andmetwithSchindlers Melanie Feltmate(St.GeorgeBotanicalGardens)andLangjahr.Atthetime,VINE Schindlers tothreewomenfromVINE:EmilyTyner(UVI-MarineAdvisoryService), ideas onholdingabenefitperformanceforSt.Croixreefs.Lombardlinked the started in2007,whentheSchindlerscontactedtheirfriendClaudiaLombard for According toKarlynLangjahr(DPNRSt.CroixEastEndMarinePark),ReefJam was the soundsystemandfinishedeventonamusicalhighnote. tion ofreggae,rock,worldjazz,funkandblues,theReggaeBubblersprovided count: SieteSonsuppliedsalsasounds,KurtSchindlerbroughthisuniquecombina- Terrence PositiveNelson,andthemusicalartists,whoappearedforfreeoratadis- Nelson andTahynaJulesintroducedguestspeakersSenatorsNellieO’Reilly predatory reef-destroyer. tiny lionfishinajar,toaidfishermenanddiversidentifyingeradicatingthis of Famegaveamooring-ropedemonstration,andDPNRFish&Wildlifedisplayed coral andshellsfoundinluggageleavingtheisland.) Customs agentsattheairportareauthorizedtoconfiscateandreturnbeach Place” campaignarepartoftheiroutreachtopreservecoralreefs.(Asareminder,US mental andconservationgroups.Safesnorkelingclinicsa“LeaveParadiseinits tional theme,offeringprintedinformationonreefconservationfromseveralgovern- off thebeach. gear wasloanedtochildreninterestedinlearninghowseewhat’sunderwaterjust games andakids’snorkelclinictoeducateentertain.Newchild-size guides andCruzanrum. donated dinners,scubadives,jetskirentals,tours,hand-blownartglass,cruising dors begancooking.AraffleofferedchancestowinUS$400-$600packagesof Not Just AnotherDay The importanceofcoralreefsextendsbeyondtheinterestsdiversandsnorkel Rhythms atRainbowBeach,northofthetownFrederiksted,isusuallyjammed For thepasttwoyears,organizersofReefJam,agrassrootsgroupfromSt. Memorial DayweekendintheUSgenerallyinvolvesamomentofremembering Ellen Sanperelivesaboard Check withwww.reefjam.comforupdates, andhaveyourbeachblanketready After lastyear’ssuccessandfeedbackfrom thecrowd,organizersdecidedto Reef JamusestheVirginIslandsResource ConservationandDevelopmentCouncil Funds generatedatReefJam2009willbeavailableonacompetitivebasisthrough This year,Langjahrwaspleasedtoreportaturnoutofabout1,000people,more Heading thegrassrootsorganizersareKurtandJanelleSchindler,founders. On Rhythms’open-airstage,UniversityoftheVirginIslandsstudentMCsTrevor Michelle Pugh,ownerofDiveExperienceandamembertheWomenDivers’Hall VINE andtheSt.CroixEnvironmentalAssociation(SEA)continuededuca- The St.CroixEastEndMarineParksponsoredanactivitiestentwitheducational An underwaterphotographyconteststartedthedayevenbeforelocalfoodven- at theBeach Cayenne III by EllenSanpere , anIdylle15.5,inChristianstedHarbor,St. Croix. activity booth Marine Park’s the EastEnd youngsters at with interested Karlyn Langjahr JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 Chart check. Ron Williams (center) and Laurie Stowe (right) of Bequia Dive Adventures point out areas of interest to UWI researcher Kim Baldwin

goes to press. .

Compass Eco-News

Stingray Caribbean Caribbean The 61st Annual Meeting of the IWC is taking place in Funchal, Madeira, as this The 61st Annual Meeting of the IWC is taking place Meanwhile, six primary schools in Dominica are participating in a pilot Floating Meanwhile, six primary schools in Dominica are participating In his presentation to the Dominica conference on March 23rd, Prime Minister March 23rd, Prime Minister In his presentation to the Dominica conference on Former Caribbean diplomat Sir Ronald Sanders noted that for several years it has Sir Ronald Sanders noted that for several years it has Former Caribbean diplomat According to the ECCEA, the meeting was an important step to restore the image meeting was an important step to restore the image According to the ECCEA, the Dominica Stands Up for Whale Conservation Dominica Stands Up for Whale Symposium co-sponsored by the Eastern CaribbeanAn International Ocean Life Stakeholder validation and feedback workshops of the final information system are Remaining activities include a marine-habitat mapping cruise of the Grenada Bank Key spatial information will include marine habitats, infrastructure, marine resource Over the past four years the Grenadines MarSIS research has been developed with a range Participants worked alongside PhD researcher Kim Baldwin of the Centre for Participants worked alongside PhD researcher Kim Uses of Grenadines Waters Being Mapped cobalt and turquoise waters It’s widely known that the Grenadines boast beautiful issue of Classroom Program to learn how to protect marine life, specifically whales. The pro- Classroom Program to learn how to protect marine life, Animal Welfare), in collabo- gram was designed by IFAW (the International Fund for Division, The Dominica ration with the Ministry of Education Youth Development (the Caribbean Whale Youth Environment Organization Inc, and CARIBwhale to whales, dolphins Watchers Association). The goal is that through an introduction deeper understanding of how and life on coral reefs, school children will acquire a underwater life. The intro- human actions on the land and the ocean’s surface affect focus on whales and the ductory lessons of the Floating Classroom curriculum ground for them. The sec- importance of the waters around Dominica as a breeding Dominica’s whale watching ond day is followed by a whale-watch trip aboard Dive vessel Skerritt recalled that last year his government “had taken a very bold decision taken a very bold decision Skerritt recalled that last year his government “had to steer clear of voting for after many decades of supporting the whaling issue his government would not whaling”, and he emphasized to the gathering that renege on that commitment. been alleged that several small Eastern Caribbean countries have supported Japan Eastern Caribbean countries have supported Japan been alleged that several small Whaling Association provided them with fish refrig- at the IWC because the Japanese been claimed in British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) eration facilities. It has also the IWC membership fees for some of these countries programmes that the JWA paid in delegations’ attendance. These claims were upheld as well as the cost of their that country’s participa- Dominica by environmentalists who have followed closely former Environment tion in IWC meetings. Among these persons is Dominica’s over the issue. Minister, Atherton Martin, who resigned in 2000 in protest of the Caribbean sub-region, and of the Commonwealth of Dominica in particular, in and of the Commonwealth of Dominica in particular, of the Caribbean sub-region, symposium the Prime Minister of Dominica, The Hon. whale conservation. At the that the Government of Dominica has broken with Roosevelt Skerrit, reaffirmed at 15-year policy of supporting Japan’s pro-whaling vote regional consensus and a the and will no longer support an overturn of the International Whaling Commission, whaling at the IWC. current ban on commercial Coalition for Environmental Awareness (ECCEA) and the Pew Environment Group in Awareness (ECCEA) and the Pew Environment Group Coalition for Environmental Caribbean Environment Programme took place Marchcooperation with the UNEP Young Hotel in Roseau, Commonwealth of Dominica.22nd through 25th at the Fort planned for late November. —Continued on page 40 scheduled for August 15th through September 5th sponsored in part by The Moorings, the University of the West Indies and the Mustique Company. users, associated space-use patterns (such as anchorages, dive sites, fishing grounds, shipping lanes, recreation areas), biological areas (sea turtle nesting, seabird roosting, marine mammals) and conservation sites (marine protected areas, spawning and nurs- ery grounds, historical sites/shipwrecks, other coastal livelihood opportunities) as well as identified areas of threat (sand-mining/dredging, beach erosion, dumping/land- based sources of pollution, mangrove cutting) across the Grenadines. of stakeholders including the governments of Grenada and St. Vincent & the Grenadines, NGOs and marine-resource users. It combines existing scientific information with local knowledge of marine resources, conservation and livelihood areas into a Geographical Information System and is anticipated to be complete by the end of this year. Indies, to map local knowledge of areas that provide food or materials of tangible value for local communities. They also mapped cultural and historical areas, conservation areas, and areas under threat or space-use conflict. The exercises captured a wealth of local knowledge to supplement the limited scientific information available. They are part of the ongoing Marine Resource and Space Use Information System (MarSIS) project, a research initiative of the Sustainable Grenadines Project, which aims to strengthen civil society to contribute to sustainable development. Resource Management and Environmental Studies at the University of the West Resource Management and Environmental Studies — but what’s really out there, and what is it all used for? To make a visible inven- — but what’s really out there, and what is it all used participated in a series of tory, a variety of marine-resource users in the Grenadines 10th. The exercises includ- marine-mapping exercises from May 14th through June for marine livelihoods ed identification of coastal resources and areas of importance in each of the nine inhabited Grenadine islands. JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 JUSTIN SIHERA Carriacou sloop have passedby. old, now-restoredwarehousesintheharborofGustavia cargo vesselswerelineduponthequaysinfrontof regulations andbureaucracy;thedayswhensailing Puerto Ricocameandwent. and schoonersfromasfarGrenada,Barbados has hadalonghistoryofinter-islandtrading.Sloops earning theirownersalivinginwhateverwaytheycan. being builtandareworking,carryingcargo,fishing Martinique, wheretothisdaynewworkingboatsare typical boats.ExceptionsareCarriacouandPetite place, sadlymostoftheseislandsnolongerbuildtheir specific workboatdesignsthathadevolvedateach gathering ofCaribbeanworkingboatsatSt.Barth. of keepingalivethememoriesthosetimesbyhavinga Magras andothernotablesinSt.Barth,hadavision Some timeago,AlexisAndrews,theownerof But thespiritremains. This tradehaslargelydisappearedwithchangesin The FrenchislandofSt.Barthelemy(St.Barthtous) Although atonetimemostoftheislandshadfairly Regatta at St. Barth InauguralWorkingBoat ROSEMOND GREAUX # A R A I B E ' R E Genesis E M E N T

, gottogetherwithLoulou P A G P D F by FrankPearce provided freeofchargebythePortCaptain,Bruno museum andadministrativeoffices,whereberthingwas stern-to inarowonthelovelyquayfrontof for St.Barthingoodtime. and workingdaynight,here-riggedhersetoff came totherescueandsplicedinanewlengthofmast, during theClassics,butWoodstockShipwrights been unfortunateinlosinghismaston nificent Plumbelly, the twice-circumnavigating25-footBequiadouble-ender, held May1through4.JoiningtheminSt.Barthwere for St.BarthtojointhenewWestIndiesRegatta,be Regatta inApril,thistraditionalWestIndianfleetsetsail Good Expectation. Summer Cloud,Tradition,Sweetheart,PipeDream including Antigua nowhasquiteafleetofCarriacou-builtvessels boats oftodayemanatepredominantlyfromCarriacou. On arrivalinGustavia,theworkingboatsmoored Shortly aftertakingpartintheAntiguaClassicYacht It’s nosurprisethenthatthewoodensailingworking THE WESTINDIESREGATTA2009 Alexander Hamilton andthelastschoonerbuiltinNevis,mag- Genesis, OceanNomad,SummerWind,

Inset: ThecrewonAlexisAndrews’Antigua-based tradition aliveinSt.Barth Main photo:TheCarriacou-builtsloop . CharlesHambletonhad Summer Cloud and

—Continuedonnextpage G music, greatgenerosity, all thewayfromUnitedStatesforevent.Great Droopy whoflewhisbrotherTueyConnell’sJazzBand there wasalivelypartywithgreatmusicthanksto on thequaywithlivemusicwhileoveratSelectBar cy. DavidWegmanandKatieputonalovelypuppetshow samples ofthiswonderful,pure,home-produceddelica- making cooperativeinGrenadaandprovidedlotsof extolling thevalidvirtuesoftheirorganicchocolate- Chocolate Companywhoproducedaninterestingmovie Sloops Volumes1and2 from 1970to1980,andphotosthebooks film/slide showsofLoulous’imagesfromtheWestIndies tesy oftheBlanchardandRomneyfamilies),music the gazebosonquayweresetupwithfood(bycour- cases ofbeerandlotsreminiscences.Intheevening people onthemainsheet—plentyforeveryonetodo. to basicswithblockandtacklesonthesheetsthree with a34-footmainboom,hasnowinches,soit’sback on boardaswecouldaccommodate. informal racing,takingasmanyofthelocaldignitaries larly betweenSt.BarthandCarriacou. when withonlythesmallestofenginesshesailedregu- and Iwasregaledwithstoriesabouthertradingdays, was soonrecognizedasoneoftheformercargovessels rigged Carriacouboatwithheroriginalcolorsandrig, interested “strollers”.Myownvessel with tradingundersailinthepast,andmanyother many ofthemoreseniorcitizenswhohadbeeninvolved radio, theeventsoondrewinterestandwemetupwith Greaux. Havingbeenadvertisedandpublicizedonlocal Tradition The mainsponsoroftheeventwasGrenada After racingwewereinundatedwithbottlesofwine, After adayofrestandshowingoff,wehadtwodays HiH , helpingkeepregionalworkboat Genesis b d byAlexisAndrews. ti ponch ti l l d i bli d d flowed. Tradition Tradition , at50feet , acutter- Carriacou l ROSEMOND GREAUX ROSEMOND JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 , Acqua Films, , Acqua Films, Caribbean Compass A wonderful few days of glorious sailing aboard true Most important is to look forward to next year, April Have a look on Alexis Andrews’s website Further thanks have to go out to Loulou Magras have to go out to Loulou Further thanks Summer Cloud amazing event, Mowgli Fox for running the committee amazing event, Mowgli Fox for running the committee boat, Raymond Magras for his sponsorship and help, and Bruno Greaux, Daniel Blanchard and Jennie May for helping to make it all happen. Additional support was proved by UNESCO, and sponsors included Woodstock Boatbuilders, The Anchorage and Adventure Antigua. West Indian sailing vessels and great hospitality at one of their traditional ports of call will always be remembered. 30th through May 2nd, and hope that many more Caribbean working sailing boats can come and make this event even more spectacular. westindiesregatta.com (there’s a great movie at westindiesregatta.com/Movie) for more information — and spread the word, please! tive and seamanship these guys must have had, and these guys must have tive and seamanship man. Thank a gentle and erudite Captain Bill such us, Bill. you for joining for this for having the inspiration and Alexis Andrews

Call us on (284) 494 2830 for a dealer near you. us on (284) 494 2830 for Call ROSEMOND GREAUX ROSEMOND had about 15 had about 15 attempt to overtake Genesis Tradition and Sweetheart shows her speed Continued from previous page Continued from M65 M92B M115T M135 M225Ti M265Ti M300Ti On the second day’s racing, On the second

Below: Just like old times: the quay at Gustavia with the fleet in Below: Just like old times: the quay at Gustavia with the Inset Top Left: knowledge of local winds and currents and expertly took the helm. Bill was only too pleased to reminisce about his lifetime of sailing his trading schooner among the islands. I liked his tale of shipping live cattle on deck (if you can imagine that) into St. Barth, where they lived ashore, were fattened up, and got French “passports” so they could enter Guadeloupe as French cattle with no duty to be paid. What initia- Above: The Lesser Antilles’ traditional trading vessels were designed to get goods quickly from island to island. Above: The Lesser Antilles’ traditional trading vessels Sweetheart on board, including Captain Bill of St. Barth who has Captain Bill of St. Barth on board, including the islands. at sea trading between spent a lifetime to share his of age, he was anxious Now, at 92 years — JUSTIN SIHERA JUSTIN Sabre M135

This naturally aspirated engine boasts premium engine features for reliability, minimal down time and minimal down reliability, for engine features engine boasts premium aspirated naturally This with the emissions achieved noise and low friendly with low and environment operator It’s service costs. system. closed breather and fully system combustion new 'QUADRAM' it has been One of the most compact packages in its class, choice. repower M135 is an excellent The servicing all routine to easy access angles and also offers of operating permit a wide range designed to points in either single or twin installations. operating component low equipment with cupro-nickel tube stacks ensure High capacity heat exchange an by is ensured operation free Leak performance. and durable reliable exceptionally for temperatures and special crankshaft conditions. oil cooler seals giving protection in the toughest plate integral extended fuel consumption service low intervals and exceptionally engine and parts Competitive pricing, engines. alternative over savings with significant owner choice make effective the M135 a cost

Generating 135 hp at a modest 2600 rpmGenerating 135 hp at in a 6 liter engine ensures in a bullet proofa long life package. QUIET CLEAN POWER QUIET CLEAN JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 back on de south shore: wrong move. De tide trippin’ north an’ dey goin’ south. Ah back ondesouthshore:wrongmove.Detidetrippin’northan’deygoin’south.Ah between to CatholicRockfightahnortheastwindan’barleetide.Itgo’begood 18-foot class, Bequia Pride though. Ahgoin’goupondehillan’watch,goodview.OnbeattoFriendship, under inCanouan.Alldeyplantisfootsteps,nottrees.Deygotsomenicehouses de waydemlook,someahgo’towbackinsteadsailback. Bad Feelings,Shark,Spy,HardTarget,BlueVex up! Butyo’knowwhatcatchmemost?Isdemnames.Boyohboy,deygotnamelike open jib,ahseedejibsheetfo’oneonwayupmast:deyhookitdown-side never putupsailuntildatSundaymornin’becausewhendewordsay‘Go’an’dem at alldemboat.Asahsay,itgottensmallboatan’deyrighow.Looklike one. Deydeserveitbecauseist’reeo’clockan’desunhotbellyflat. committee boatbydefinishan’nohorn—t’ingsflat!Timefo’demguysstopahgreen second, Worries bad leakalongshegarboardstreak;deygo’fixitfo’tomorrow.Inde18footers,is class, wegot lookin’ goodonland. board. Asfo’ in Canouan;well,todayisdeday,atleastfo’ down fromBequia.AtdeendahBequiaEasterRegattasaydeygo’provedempoint yes, itcomin’attento15knot.It’sdeCanouanWhitsunRegattaan’wegoteightboat bottom, ahgoodsigndewaterhealthy,remindyo’datlifeisjustfo’livin’! an’ dewaterclearpretty;ahcouldseewhiteseaurchinsredstarfishon did still indelead, first markwid tide goin’aboutfourknotsindeoppositedirection. passin’ southahMayreauBaleineRockan’uptoFriendship.Deyonbeatde wind toCatholicRock. de fleet.Twenty-eight-footerslast,demlookgoodgoin’outbaytobuoyan’down- Tel: +596(0)5967480Fax: 596 [email protected] Reverse course today an’ de sun hot fo’ so, it ain’t got ah cool tree yo’ could stand Reverse coursetodayan’desunhotfo’so,itain’tgotahcooltreeyo’couldstand Sunday mornin’isherean’ahdecidefo’tekwalkdowndebeachlook Twenty-one boat line de beach, sails flappin’ in de breeze. Yo’ notice ah say ‘breeze’, Twenty-one boatlinedebeach,sailsflappin’inbreeze.Yo’noticeahsay‘breeze’, It’s Saturday,Mayde30than’ahlyin’atanchorinCanouanBay.Deskiesblue At ah quarter to twelve, dey decide fo’ start, 14-footers off first, ten in de class, half At ahquartertotwelve,deydecidefo’start,14-footersofffirst,tenindeclass,half Bluff by OrbinOllivierre Confusion Before Pride CCANOUAN WHITSUNREGATTA2009 an’ Bluff . Isahgoodfighttodefinishbut Bequia Pride A Tornado indeleadasdeyroundmark, thirdan’ Limbo N Tornado Confusion Confusion Confusion O an’ fromBequia, U an’ infrontbyahlongway. Bluff Cloudy Bay Centre deCarenage97290LeMarin Iron Duke A , she lengthen she mast an’ dress up in ah new mainsail, , shelengthenmastan’dressupinahnewmainsail, Confusion an’ Confusion close behind because she catch up on de downwind leg, so closebehindbecauseshecatchupondedownwindleg,so N lookin’goodasever,an’sois Bluff

W Goeth butahdon’tt’ink rightbehind.AsdeypassGlossyHill, in de lead aroun’ de rock an’ upwind dey comin’, indeleadaroun’rockan’upwinddeycomin’, some way out dey. Talkin’ dis an’ dat, I ain’t see no somewayoutdey.Talkin’disan’dat,Iain’tseeno Nerissa Jone becausedetwoahdemlooktobeclose. H I T S Bequia Pride Bequia Pride U Confusion Confusion an’ N to nameahfew.Butoffdemgoan’ two, Iron Duke Bequia Pride

IN MARTINIQUE MAINTENANCE BOAT FOR SPECIALIST THE Antifouling Epoxy Batteries Marine Paints Plumbing Zinc Anodes R getdemarkfirst, an’ an’ in front on de downwind leg infrontondedownwindleg E . She got new jib an’ dagger . Shegotnewjiban’dagger Cloudy Bay Progress G Bluff sailin’ today, she got ah sailin’today,shegotah in de lead around de indeleadaround A close behind. In de closebehind.Inde T from Canouan. fromCanouan. T Le Marin . In de 24-foot . Inde24-foot A Bequia Pride Confusion

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9 Clockwise fromtop:SkipperAllickDanielof of Ragguette acceptingthetrophyfor lttbt i ’ ti b t t ll k d t l let deskullsstartbustin’againuntilCarriacouwhenallbigboysmeetagain. Canouan Regatta2009Winners Bequia Pride 28-Foot Class Bad Feelings 14-Foot Class Liberty 16-Foot Class Tornado 18-Foot Class Limbo 24-Foot Class Tornado , AllickDaniel,Bequia , ElmoreLaidlow,Canouan , KingsleyStowe,Bequia , ArnoldHazell,Bequia , SamuelForde,Mayreau Bequia Pride Confusion Bequia Pride De windshiftin’inalldirectionbutitain’tstop side debay.Itgo’beahbittrickyoutdeytoday. Bequia. Butoffdemgo,ahtriangularcourseout- breathe, itremindmeahdeEasterMondayin an’ itstop,soisdewind.Downjustenoughto Caribbean peopledoesrunfrom!Eleveno’clock come, allmanrunnin’fo’cover.Isdeonlyt’ing an’ ahgoodbreeze.Nineo’clockdownderain de hardcourt:boom-boomallnight! Show tonightbutitgo’ha’somekindahactionon now, checkoutwhatgoin’onshore.NoQueen nin’ byseconds.Tomorrowisanotherdaybutfo’ an’ an’ upwindtodefinish.Ahgoodfight, also say,yo’ha’fo’paylearn.DeyturnGlossy mark notgoawayfromit.Datmeksense.Butdem north, keepondenorthshore;comeclosetoyo’ always heardemoldpeoplesay,ifdewindis lickin’ today;welldone Tornado getting’ grey! not livin’uptoshename,an’ own today.Asfo’ yo’ own”onshesailsan’certainlyhold Monday mornin’breakwidahfewrainclouds Limbo Bequia Pride knockout go’getfirstoverallbutsheahgood Limbo moreconfused. , andskipperKingsleyStowe fromsalvagin’shepridean’leavin’ , crewmemberUlric‘Alo’ , tackfo’tack,wid Bluff Iron Duke , shefoldin’tooquickan’ Worries Bequia Pride Cloudy Bay ! An’somyfriend, alltworaces. Confusion got“Hold Confusion daysare win-

JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 The tenth anniversary event featured a wonderful welcome at Marina Bas du Fort, welcome at Marina event featured a wonderful The tenth anniversary in reached Marina Casa de Campo, the first stop Some 320 miles later the group at Isla Catalina, Boca Chica, Isla Beata and its 200 The other stops in the DR were sailing and we were anchored at Ile à Vache. The Another 110 miles of overnight and we reached Errol Flynn Marina at Port Antonio, One more night of sailing for the first time, Two-and-a-half days of sailing later we arrived at Cienfuegos above anyone’s expecta- The closing ceremony at the Cienfuegos Yacht Club was (excursions) and Special thanks to Marlin Marina Cienfuegos, Habanatur made more than ten stops In conclusion, after having visited six different islands, The next Transcaraïbes rally will take place between April 1st and 22nd, 2010. The For more information visit www.transcaraibes.com. as usual. At Saint Martin, the rally boats docked at Marina Fort Louis and provisions docked at Marina Fort Louis Martin, the rally boats as usual. At Saint voyage. stages of the multi-destination loaded aboard for the next and spares were bags of clothing the boats with hundreds of sorted out and loaded Participants also Everyone was ready for the adventure. and supplies for the Haiti operation. lovely marina, with first class service, friendly people the Dominican Republic. This has to Commodore Fini’s friendship and efficiency — and excellent parties — thanks de from the very beginning. A visit to the luxurious Casa been a partner of the rally Chavon, a medieval Italian village reconstruction, were Campo resort and Altos de the there. Another important excursion took place to highlights of the first day historical quarter. These trips gave a feeling of what capital city of Santo Domingo’s who have time to stay longer on their return journey the DR has to offer for ralliers to the Lesser Antilles. least Bahia Las Aguilas with its five-mile-long deserted fishermen, and last but not Haitian border. white sand beach close to the aid took place and the memorable welcome the popula- distribution of humanitarian in everyone’s memory. It is amazing to see what people tion treated us with is still for us all. We will definitely come back next year. can offer with so little, a lesson marvelous days of relaxation, touring and provisioning Jamaica. Here we had three leg of the trip to Cuba. For those who planned to depart in preparation for the last an opportunity to stock up on from Cuba to cross the Atlantic to Europe, this was staff, beginning with manager all necessary items for that long journey. The marina possible effort to make this Dale Westin and his assistant George Munro, made every always ready to help. stay a memorable one; they were friendly, efficient and entrance channel, dozens of which we knew would be unforgettable. In the narrow escorted us to the Marlin small typical fishing boats welcomed the rally fleet and newspapers, radio stations. Marina. Local and international press was there: TV, ago, and from now on the Cienfuegos was built by the French around two centuries April 22nd, each year. rally will reach Cienfuegos for its commemoration day, music were just fantastic. tion; the food was tasty and the dance performance and cities of Trinidad, built by the The following day we took the bus to visit the historic Spaniards, and Old Havana. International Yacht Club Commodore José Miguel Diaz Escrich from the Hemingway of that quality would have in Havana. Without their help, no culmination of the rally been possible. and covered around 1,500 nautical miles, this group of 50 sailors had the feeling they had lived a true Caribbean Adventure. organizer speaks English, Spanish and French. Come and join us! TRANSCARAIBES RALLY 2009 RALLY TRANSCARAIBES Right: The rally fleet fills the marina at Port Antonio, Jamaica Left: Rally organizer Stéphane Legendre with Errol Flynn Marina manager Dale Westin and Transcaraibes rally founder Jean-Marc Rutin

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wenty boats gathered at Marina Bas du Fort in Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe, wenty boats gathered at Marina Bas du Fort in Pointe-à-Pitre, which took the for the start of the 10th Annual Transcaraïbes yacht rally, in Marigot, Saint fleet from Guadeloupe to Cuba. Stopovers were made as well as Martin, and along the south coast of the Dominican Republic,

T This is a social as well as a sailing event. The main point of each leg, whatever the This rally is characterized by the freedom that is given to participants; a good This rally is characterized by the freedom that is given The sailing was smooth and downwind all the way. Twenty-five-knot winds were The sailing was smooth and downwind all the way. Twenty-five-knot Adventure Legendre Stéphane by Caribbean Caribbean The Northern Northern The distance, is to reach the next stop in time for the welcome briefings and parties, which are set at 6:00 example was this year’s leg from Guadeloupe to Saint Martin. From Marina Bas du example was this year’s leg from Guadeloupe to Saint Chateaux cape, others south Fort, some decided to go upwind around the Pointe des around Basse-Terre, and a third group decided to wake up early and take the Rivière-Salée canal which shortened their journey by 50 miles. rarely reached and the group could fully enjoy the stopovers’ swimming, friendly rarely reached and the group could fully enjoy the parties and excursions. at two new ports this year — Ile à Vache on the south coast of Haiti and Errol Flynn at two new ports this year — Ile à Vache on the south goods donated by the Marina in Jamaica. At Ile à Vache, rally participants delivered (see related item on Red Cross and the Rotary Club in St. Martin to an orphanage in Cuba — the south coast page 6). This year, the rally also had a new finishing point city of Cienfuegos. JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 petitive racing,isnowbeinghandledbyKurlanBethel, dinghy sailingthroughsafe-conducttrainingtocom- cricket. Tuition,rangingfromabasicintroductionto ends withaswimandsometimesgameofbeach youngsters onSaturdaysandamorningsailalways also providedavaluablesocialopportunityforthe on boatscompetingatlocalregattas.Theclubhas strapping teenagerwhowillbeguaranteedaberth passing yachtcrews,theclubhasflourished. and thesupportofmanyresidents,regularvisitors their waytoTyrrelBay.AsaresultofTed’senthusiasm communities; eventuallymostofthedinghiesfound Optimists wereoriginallydistributedamongthree is themostsuccessfulproductofthatinitiative.Nine the island.TheclubinTyrrelBay’svillage,HarveyVale, Grenada SailingAssociationtofosteryouthsailingon Optimist dinghiesdonatedfromTrinidadviathe Tyrrel Bay—ingreatshapeforthefuture. pet project—theCarriacouJuniorSailingClubin loss toCarriacou’ssailingcommunity,heisleavinghis England ofEdward“Ted”Tusonisregardedasabig [email protected] www.barefootyachts and Carriacoukidsarepartoftheaction Optimist dinghysailingisaworldwidephenomenon, REGATTA More thanone“graduate”ofthejuniorsisnowa It beganin2002withtheacquisitionofthree Mike Barnottreports:Althoughtheretirementto Optimism overJuniorSailinginCarriacou Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL NEWS

Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters was firsttofinish.GilSmithandhiscrewon 56, underthecommandofskipperDavidFraizerwho four out-saileditshandicaptobeat Winner. Theelegantschoonermannedbyacrewof Archcetto fromNewJersey,wastheOverallHandicap the Caribbean. Canada fromtheirwintercruisinggroundsin daily radiochatstoboatsreturningtheUSand tion, sharedweatherinformation,crewlists,andtwice- Cruising RallyAssociation,providesfriendlycompeti- seas. TheannualAtlanticCup,sponsoredbythe punctuated onlybrieflybyfreshwindsandlumpy ker runs,glorioussunsets,andfresh-caughttuna, Departing TortolaonMay3rd,sailorsenjoyedspinna- east tosoutheastwindsforthe850-milepassage. sailing rallyfromTortolatoBermudareachedinnorth- Teena at(473)403-6562. always bemostwelcome. escort andsafety-boatcover,orjustjoininthefun,will would liketocomealongwithanRIBprovide Grenada government.Inthemeantime,anyonewho benefactors, butwillalsogainrecognitionfromthe ity oftheGSA,interestedyachtsmenandprivate his legacywillnothavetorelyforeveronthegeneros- development coursesinGrenada.Tedishopefulthat sions fromvisitinginstructorKevinBanfieldandcareer GSA tosupportKurlaninhisnewrolewithtrainingses- sponsorship ofthejuniorsailingprogramenables success overtheyears.BudgetMarine’scontinuing devoted workinestablishingtheclubandbuildingits expressed theassociation’sgratitudetoTedforhis every Saturdaymorning. sters fromvisitingyachtsandfillsallavailabledinghies bership ofyoungsailorsextendsawelcometoyoung- park, theclubisasubstantialpresence.Akeenmem- (one inneedofrepair)andasmallworkshop/dinghy tas. NowwithafleetofeightOptimists,twoGP14s pate inbothCarriacouandPetiteMartiniqueregat- sailing communityofWindward.Clubteamspartici- an enthusiasticvolunteerfromtheisland’straditional this year’sTortola-to-BermudaAtlanticCuprace The Cherubinischooner Antonina The 19sailboatsinthisyear’sAtlanticCupoffshore Antonina For moreinformationcontactCJSCcoordinator Jacqui PascalloftheGrenadaSailingAssociation , aCherubinischoonersailedbyVince Wins 2009AtlanticCupRally Antonina , OverallWinnerat Clover III Joy ForAll , aSwan , —Continuedonnextpage and wouldliketocontinueforyearscome.” community involvedissomethingtheASAproudof these greatboatsovertoAnguillaandhavethelocal cheering onsomeoneaboat.Thatwecanget exciting! Welovethispartoftheregattaaseveryoneis Battle oftheBanksandWestEndCupraceswerevery Anguilla YouthSailingClub. aboard. Allproceedsfromthiseventsupportedthe West EndCupwithcrewfromlocalbusinesses North a Farr50weresecondtofinish. Cup veterans,the12Metres Saturday werethetwoSt.Maarten-basedAmerica’s ing ralliersfortheanniversaryactivities. Americas. Blackanticipatesarecordentryofreturn- and longest-runningoffshorecruisingralliesinthe start onNovember2nd.Thiseventisoneofthelargest later thisyearforthe20thCaribbean1500,slatedto incorporate featuresfromGoogleEarth. Caribbean 1500websiteusingsoftwarecustomizedto each day,withboat’strackdisplayedonthe were broadcastviathesatellitenetworksixtimes the openoceanpassage. recognized theirachievementofsafelycompleting class thatsailedtoBermudareceivedawards communication benefits.Theboatsinthecruising All classesreceivedthesamesafety,weatherand to theUnitedStatesfromTortolaineightorninedays. company toBermuda.Fourotherboatssaileddirectly boats enteredtheCruisingClasstoenjoyacruisein to theRallyClass,thereweretwoCruisingClasses.Six within 48hoursofarrival. most departedfortheeasternseaboardofUS George’s DinghyandSportsClubinBermuda and PresidentoftheCruisingRallyAssociation. makes itallmucheasier,”saidSteveBlack,Founder Nanny CayMarinahasskilledtradesmenonsite to getreadyforthelongpassage.Thefactthat team atNannyCaymadeitveryeasyforparticipants Nanny CayResortandMarina.“Thehard-working the passageinbetween98and121hours. arrived third.TheRallyfleetofnineboatscompleted 46 catamaranwithDenisMcCarthyonthehelm, Speaking for the ASA, Peter Parles said, “This year’s Speaking fortheASA,PeterParlessaid,“Thisyear’s The CruisingRallyAssociationreturnstoNannyCay With wirelesstranspondersoneachyacht,positions The fleetwasdividedintothreedivisions.Inaddition All ralliersreceivedawarmwelcomeattheSt. For thefirsttime,ralliersdepartedTortolafrom , dukingitoutfortheBattleofBanksand But stealingtheshowon Cruising andMultihullClasses. Spinnaker, Non-Spinnaker, Optimists, andyachtsin including localboats, numerous typesofboats, Board, therewereracesfor and theAnguillaTourist Anguilla SailingAssociation and organizedbythe through 10thandsponsored Regatta, heldMay8th www.carib1500.com. Cruising Ltd. OCENS, ICOM,andWorld Sailing West Marine, Nanny CayResort&Marina, Davenport &CompanyLLC, companies including Association issupportedby At the7thAnnualAnguilla 12 MetresDuelinAnguilla For moreinformationvisit The Cruising Rally The CruisingRally Stars &Stripes magazine, Switlik, magazine,Switlik, Fado .com Blue Water Blue Water and , aLeopard True JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 with Luc Duponteil at the Batti+Bagghi Forty-nine boats, two more than last year, were on two more than last year, Forty-nine boats, Port Louis, Deshaies The stopovers at Marie Galante, year the organization For the second consecutive five days of racing, A large and tired crowd, after Race, the organizers hesitated. Due to the economic hesitated. Due to the Race, the organizers and the sponsors reefed their sails climate, some help up until local institutions’ financial uncertainty of Triskell the event made Le a few weeks before they did wonder if they would fail. But Organization the nautical community decided not. Guadeloupe’s a on — and they achieved show would go terrific event. Islet under May 20th in front of Gosier the start line on of wind. Due to the a beautiful sun and 15 knots in the CSA monohull class, increasing number of boats created next year. a second group should be and friendly. Competitors, and Les Saintes were festive answering Triskell friends and relatives were present, call to demonstrate, if President Jean Michel Marziou’s on the Tour de needed, that the conviviality as the competi- Guadeloupe is almost as important at Les Saintes was tion itself. As usual, the evening the climax. time. This racing set up a cumulative compensated fight between smaller system offered an interesting winds. The overall boats at ease in medium-strength winner was victory he managed, helm. Without any single-leg the highest step of the thanks to consistency, to reach podium. came to the prizegiving ceremony at Marina Bas du Fort at Pointe-à-Pitre. The Comité du Tourisme des Iles de Guadeloupe (Tourism Office of Guadeloupe), and Nouvelles Antilles had invited journalists from France, which shows the economic impact of this event for Guadeloupe. —Continued on next page

the overall O’dege As always, the awards ceremonies were held at As always, the awards ceremonies 2009 Round Guadeloupe Race — Terrific! Before launching this year’s Round Guadeloupe The winners of each class competed in a Laser sail- The winners of each class competed Denise and the not quite all-female crew of the Cal 27 Denise and the not quite all-female Reality Switch And they’re off! Despite some pre-start sponsorship jitters, the famous Tour de Guadeloupe attracted top yacht-racing skippers and more entries than last year winner of the regatta for the second consecutive year. winner of the regatta for the burger joint, official Skinny Legs, St. John’s venerable Club, and unofficial home of the Coral Bay Yacht as always, the dinghy raf- town hall of Coral Bay. And anticipated portions of fle was one of the most highly the festivities (this year won by School Bus Kathy). As always, proceeds benefited Kids and the Sea (KATS), the esteemed program teaching boating skills and safety to the future sailors of the Caribbean. off, which Sara O’Neill won, making off, which Sara O’Neill won,

, , Wiper Zing O’dege . Sara , or Stars & with an all- Ruffian Yellow and, in a , while a com- Paradise Found. thank all the as press boat for Zephyr Island Blues finishing first. Coming in close to True North Reality Switch, Relentless . With previous years’ results . With previous years’ results and Tory on True North Spinner, Spitter, Sniper squeaking in with a win by Stars & Stripes. True North for the first time in years. Southern Breeze and, in a three-way tie, Marty on in the lead. , sailed with a Mother’s Day crew including , and the challengers, Caribbean Commercial , and the challengers, Caribbean Painkilla Stars & Stripes Boats had the choice to compete in PHRF spinnaker In the West End Cup race, defending champions In the West End Cup race, In the Battle of the Banks, last year’s winners, the In the Battle of the Banks, last Denise was on her Cal 27, St. John’s Commodore’s Cup Defines Friendly Competition Margie Smith reports: The 10th Annual Budget For complete results visit www.anguillaregatta.com. For more information about the ASA or the AYSC Plans are underway for next year’s regatta and One new aspect of the 12 Metre Challenge this One new aspect of the 12 He continued, “We appreciate the banks’ continued “We appreciate the banks’ He continued, Continued from previous page Continued from good example of how things work in Coral Bay, Bill on good example of how things work in Coral Bay, Bill on the KATS Ensign called followed by Coral Bay’s Jimmy on — depending on who you ask. In the spinnaker class, it was Chris Thompson from St. Thomas in his J/27 J-Walker won the pursuit race, followed by Bear on George and Linda Stuckert of Cruz Bay took first place in the PHRF non-spinnaker division in their J/30, Menace Steve on or non-spinnaker divisions, or in a pursuit race. Stripes Bank, boarded was an important tie- tied at three wins apiece, this 20 knots! The race breaking year — in winds topping beat up the coast of stayed close. As the boats Road Bay, they split tacks Anguilla towards the finish in to the finish, resulting in Cuisinart Resort & Spa sailed National Bank of Anguilla, took the helm of National Bank of Anguilla, took six seconds. O’Neill, skipper of the 33-foot Camper Nicholson O’dege her mother, Debbie, her son, Abel, and Carolina — the family’s boat dog. Their neighbor Steve raced his boat girl crew of Suki, Lynn, Deborah, Jamie and… well, there was that one “woman” in a purple wig who looked suspiciously like Wally from Marine Commodore’s Cup, sponsored jointly by St. John, USVI’s three yacht clubs — the St. John Yacht Club, the Nauti Yacht Club, and the Coral Bay Yacht Club — was held May 9th and 10th, Mother’s Day weekend, in Coral Bay, a place where residents are known by the names of their boats. Everybody knows everybody in this quintessentially friendly competition. visit www.sailanguilla.com. dates will be announced soon. bined team from Frangipani Beach Resort, Medical Air bined team from Frangipani Beach Resort, Medical Air Service Association, The Pumphouse and Straw Hat Restaurant raced shore at Meads, Maundays and Rendezvous Bays, the boats met with cheering crowds as they rounded the marks. Team Cuisinart became the first repeat winner, holding the cup for another year. year was that anyone could purchase a spot on one year was that anyone could morning race. of the boats for a friendly Sunday all climbed aboard the two Tourists, locals and ex-pats and raced a short course, yachts on Sunday morning with regatta as well as Frangipani Beach Resort who as Frangipani Beach Resort regatta as well ASA and offered assistance to the stepped up and AYSC by lending their boat the three day event.” participation over the seven years they have raced and the seven years they have participation over ASA, a great friend to the Cuisinart has become Anguilla and, most importantly, the Anguilla Regatta contributions We truly appreciate the Youth Sailing Club. and would to this and all of our efforts, they have made say a big thank-you! like to publicly We — JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 at CaptainOliver’sregatta Short ortall,therewasfunforall forward tonextyear’sedition. sive sailingseasonintheCaribbean.Wearelooking sailing inSaintMartinhelpedtoroundoutaveryinten- nightclub ofSintMaarten. had invitedthedancersfromfamousPlatinum the prizegiving,towhichOliverLange(CaptainOliver) Multihull classinfrontofGeoffLédée’sSeacart30. class andJeroendeRooij’sPrindle19wontheRacing Marquise 56,surprisinglywontheCruisingCatamaran Contention 37.CaptainOliver’sownboat,anold Cruising Monohullclass,infrontofRonnieVanSittert’s Connection’s Light’s podium. Oneminute’sdifferenceseparated Budget Marine Melges 24s— the linejustoffmarina’sentrancebuoys. Guana Bayrocks,leavingthemtostarboardbefore on thewaybackboatshadtoroundMollyBedayand nized forthefirsttime,leavingTintamarreislandtoport; Pond marina.OntheSundayapursuitracewasorga- clockwise, startingandarrivinginfrontoftheOyster Saturday. Saturday’sracewasaroundtheislandanti- course modificationduetostrongwindsonthe panied theracers. to 20knotsofwind,dyingonthesecondday,accom- favored theorganizerswithbeautifulsunshineand15 and CruisingMultihulls(fiveboats).Theweather Multihulls (sixboats),CruisingMonohulls(nineboats) Performance Monohulls(eightboats), and resort,ontheFrenchsideofSaintMartin. parties organizedatOysterPondmarinarestaurants play throughouttheracesandwonderfulevening Regatta ischaracterizedbyitsconvivialityandfair 1st through5th. sign thatthishasbecomeamajorCaribbeanevent. Thelier, WillyBicenteandChristineMontlouisisanother racers suchasVictorJeanNoel,LucCoquelin,Claude — Continued frompreviouspage For moreinformationvisitwww.coyc-sxm.com/regatta. In conclusion,onceagainawonderfulweekend The parties’climaxwasreachedonthelastdayat Moondance In thePerformanceMonohullsClass,three There weretworacesthisyear,withalast-minute This year,28boatsgatheredinfourclasses: Stéphane Legendrereports:Captain’sOliver Captain Oliver’sConvivialRegatta2009 For fullresultsvisitwww.triskellcup.com. The RoundGuadeloupeRace2010willbeheldApril Theparticipationofmajorlocalandinternational winningskipper,FritsBus,and Technical shop Equipment forrent Haulout andhullsandblasting Breakdown service24/7 Engine diagnosis Boat Maintenance Mechanics andElectricity SERVICES skipper,DidierRouault. Coors Light,FrenchConnection —competedforthetopstepon , GarthSteyn’sCatalina36,wonthe LEAVE YOUR BOATINSKILLEDHANDS French Coors and FRED MARINE 24h BREAKDOWNSERVICE•SALESREPAIRSMAINTENANCE Phone: +590590907137Fax:908 651 MARINE MECHANICS(ALLMAKES)-HAULOUT togetherness forMartiniqueandSt.Luciayachtclubs Commodore PhilippeVolnycelebratingcross-channel SLYC CommodoreCharlesDevauxandYCM From lefttoright:YCMCommitteememberJeanTrudo, its shores. St. Lucia,theSLYChostedmorethan60visitorsto duced onlyfivelocalMartiniqueyachtsandonefrom yacht clubcommunities.Althoughtheeventpro- intention ofenhancingtherelationshipbetween the St.LuciaYachtClub(SLYC)toparticipatewith from MartiniquetoStLuciaonMay30thandinvited Martinique (YCM)organizedLaTranscanalRegatta Bay with St. Lucian J/24s and Lasers racing with the Bay withSt.LucianJ/24sandLasersracingthe out foranightonthetown! of thetwoclubs.Thentirelessvisitorsweretaken Philippe VolnyandCharlesDevaux,thecommodores traditional exchangeofburgeeswasmadebetween benefited fromkegsdonatedbyHeinekenStLucia.A were giventothewinningyachts,whosecrewsalso donated byLaConseilRegionaldelaMartinique la Martinique,werealsopresent. Pastourelli, SailingInstructoratClubSportifMilitairede Nautique duMarinSailingSchoolandJeanMichel in LeMarin/Ste.Anne.AlbertLapiquonneofClub mittee ofLeCombatdeCoquesraceheldeveryyear tion OpentheBarre,whoheadsorganizingcom- Martinique, andLionelBaud,Présidentoftheassocia- Philippe Volny,PrésidentoftheYachtClubdela members werepleasedtohavethecompanyof Sunday’s race,theday’sprizegivinganddinner.SLYC tizer andrumpunch,followedbyabriefingfor welcomed totheSt.LuciaYachtClubwithanappe- the generosityofIGY.Thateveningsailorswere Marina wheretheydockedatreducedratesthanksto and FrankCapers. which wastakencareofbySLYC’sTedBull Archambault A40,wasthefirsttocrossfinishline, Martinique accompaniedthefleet. representatives fromLaConseilRegionalde junior sailingcrewfromSLYC.Apowerboatcarrying J/24 Europa Barre Participating yachtswere Danielle deRouckreports:TheYachtClubla St. LuciaandMartinique:‘Let’sGetTogether!’ On the Sunday, racing action continued in Rodney On theSunday,racingactioncontinuedinRodney Jean TrudopresentedtheprizesfromYCM.Trophies After finishing,theyachtsheadedtoRodneyBay Various lubricants Various lubricants Primers andAntifoulingInternational Electric parts,batteries Anodes,Shaft bearings Filtration FLEETGUARD Basic spareparts Genuine partsYanmar&Tohatsu GOODS Grayling intheRacingClass,and intheCruisingClass.TheSt.Lucianentry, E-mail: Marina Pointe-à-Pitre97110 , wasskipperedbyEdgarRoewithhis (filters, impellers,belts) [email protected] Sonadio Ocean Two,Foxy Sonadio and Open the

, an and

Guadeloupe F.W.I. Scaffolding Vacuum cleanerforwater Diverse handtools Electrical tools High pressurecleaners150/250bars FOR RENT Barbados YachtClubonFridayJuly3rdat5:00 Nightclub. Theskippers’briefingwillbeheldatthe by theBarbadosYachtClubandHarborLights is organizedbytheBarbadosJ/24Clubandhosted Sunday July5thonCarlisleBay,Barbados.Theevent Championship willbesailedonSaturdayJuly4thand Sailing Weekuntiltheybroketheirboom. and HeinekenRegattas,wereleadinginAntigua North regions,intheRolex,BVISpring,PuertoRico They campaignedverysuccessfullyintheCenterand James andNickyDobbstheirteamfromAntigua. —Continuedonnextpage Premier’s CupInternationalYouthRegatta,… from throughouttheregiontocompetein2009 Islands takegreatpleasureininvitingyoungsailors Honourable PremierandPeopleoftheBritishVirgin points reflectingthenumberofentriesplusone. DNS, DNForDisqualificationafteraracewillresultin position youfinishedbasedonthenumberofentries. will bethelowpointscoringsystem:oneforeach provided attheskippers’briefing.Thescoringsystem completed toconstituteaseries.Racecourseswillbe eight racesovertwodays.Sevenneedtobe Instructions. Theracecommitteeisplanningonhaving Racing RulesofSailing2009–2011,andthe the RegattaRoom. Travellers TrophyhasgonetotheJ/122 won innearlyeveryregattatheyentered.The2009 regions —South,CenterandNorthplacedor the ReichelPugh44 went toPeterPeakeandhisteamfromTrinidadon presented twicethisyear.The2008TravellersTrophy current year,insteadofforthepreviousyear. now allowsforthetrophytobeawardedduring be awarded.ArevisedformatoftheTravellersTrophy Antigua SailingWeekinApril—whenthetrophywill the firstregattaofannualseries,andlastis of “CaribbeanChampionYacht”. sport ofyachtracingandcanproperlyjustifythetitle lence (winning).Thisshowsatruededicationtothe both travelingtoawayregattas(effort)andexcel- Caribbean regattasbasedon,asthenamesuggests, yacht whichhasachievedthebestresultsinmajor forget Mauriceof“OneTime”. Meriea andSLYCSocialSecretaryDanielle,notto the do-it-allfromYCM,SLYCBosunTed,Manager prizes thatwillbecherished.Abigthank-youtoJean, made itpossibletoentertainthesailorsandprovide Alain Afflelou,Martinique,andHeinekenSt.Lucia, from St.LuciatoMartinique. Next year,theTranscanalwillreversedirection,sailing promising fortheeventtogrowintoamajorrace. SLYC commodores.Fromthefeedbackitlooksvery between theClubSportifMilitaireMartiniqueand and prizegiving,burgeeswereexchanged class winner. Grayling Racing Class. Martinique yachts. The Barbados2009J/24OpenInternational in Barbados J/24s toVieforInternationalChampionship The KidsandTheSea(KATS)Organization, Premier’s CupInternationalYouthRegattainJuly,BVI For moreinformationvisitwww.j24barbados.com. The ChampionshipswillbegovernedbytheISAF In keepingwiththerevisedformat,trophywas The PortLouisGrenadaSailingFestivalinJanuaryis The TravellersTrophyisawardedeachyeartothe Travellers TrophiesWonby For moreinformationvisitwww.stluciayachtclub.com. The sponsors,ConseilRegionaldelaMartiniqueand The daywascompletedwithabeachbarbecue came first in the J/24s. Eduardo was the Laser camefirstintheJ/24s.EduardowasLaser Ocean Two Sonadio Storm topped Cruising Class, and toppedCruisingClass,and . Theysailedinallthree TOHATSU was again victorious in the wasagainvictoriousinthe Storm and Lost Horizon Lost Horizon PM in — JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

TINA NASH to the needs of cruising yachtsmen 18.25.50N 69.36.67W newest marina catering The Dominican Republic's Here Comes Carriacou Regatta Festival 2009 The Carriacou Regatta Festival takes place The annual two-handed Round Carriacou yacht Be sure to arrive in plenty of time for the annual “fun For more information on regatta events see ad on For more information on CCEF events contact • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo and 7 miles East of International Airport annually during the week leading up to the first annually during the week leading up to the first Monday in August. This year’s 44th edition takes place from July 26th through August 3rd. It is a showcase for locally built open boats and decked sloops to compete for bragging rights. The most recent Petite Martinique Regatta served to demonstrate how competitive the sloops are this year in what will be a well-supported class, with several of the Antigua-based Carriacou sloops threatening to return to their birthplace to compete. race, which attracted 27 entries last year, will sail on Friday July 31st, followed by crewed yacht races on August 1st and 3rd. Mount Gay Rum joins Doyle Sails, Island Water World and Budget Marine in supporting the event. for a cause” fundraisers for the Carriacou Children’s Educational Fund. The CCEF Welcome Potluck Barbecue will be on July 29th at the Carriacou Yacht Club in Tyrrel Bay, and the CCEF Charity Auction will take place on the 31st at the same venue. These efforts make it possible for four to six students to attend the TA Marryshow Community College, for a large number to have the required uniforms and text- books for primary and secondary school, for lunches to feed some hungry children, and to assist the primary schools in building and furnishing their computer labs and libraries. Your contribution makes a big difference in these children’s lives. page 45. [email protected]. Caribbean Dinghy The CDCs will take place in For more information Guadeloupe’s Coupe de Nwel Guadeloupe has been home for Championships 2009 for Barbados Barbados this year on August 15th and 16th, and it looks like there will be a bumper crop of teams participating, which can only heighten the competition! Barbados is looking forward to hosting this annual event, which is so important to both youth and senior sailors alike. contact Anne at [email protected] or visit www.sailbarbados.com. — the Christmas Cup two years to a growing dinghy/ The organizer, Circle Sportif Bas du Fort (CSBF) aims For more information visit www.csbf-guadeloupe. • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hour security beach cat event, the Christmas Cup (or Coupe de Nwel in Creole), with the third edition to be held from December 26th through 30th in Le Gosier. The competition is open to Optimist and Laser classes as well as F18, F16 and other 16-foot beach cats. Optimists proved to be the most competitive class in 2008 with many great sailors coming from Martinique and France. to reinforce the Caribbean dimension of the competition and has set up a partnership with NouvellesAntilles.com, a tour operator from Guadeloupe, to offer special deals to regional sailors. com (the Notice of Race is available in French and English). One of the renowned Decked Sloops Class that provides razor-sharp racing action. Add races for yachts and Optis, plus a wealth of shoreside events, and Carriacou Regatta Festival is an island event not to be missed Za

MaMa Zar-Par Marina For more information contact T&T’s Best Dinghy Sailors 2008 – 2009 Announced T&T’s Best Dinghy Sailors 2008 Tobago Sailing On June 6th, the Trinidad & For more information contact Abby O’Neal, Director For more information contact Racing will be aboard IC24s and Laser 4.7s. The Racing will be aboard IC24s This event is governed by the ISAF Racing Rules of by the ISAF Racing This event is governed Entry is open to all youths under 18 on the last day all youths under 18 on the Entry is open to Continued from previous page Continued from Tel: 809 523 5858 Visit: marinazarpar.com Contact MARINA ZARPAR VHF Channel 5 email: [email protected] Tel: 809 523 5858 Visit: marinazarpar.com Contact MARINA ZARPAR VHF …which will be held July 10th to 12th at Nanny Cay, held July 10th to 12th at Nanny …which will be The best dinghy sailors of Trinidad & Tobago, 2009. Back row, left to right: Daniel Briggs, Wesley Scott, Dekife Charles and Budget Marine representative Ruth Lund. In front are Derek Poon Tip and Meiling Chan Chow [email protected]. races of the season on Carenage Bay to determine the overall winners. Throughout the season, sailors young and old competed on 14 ranking days in five different classes for the title of best dinghy sailor of the season in each class. After the last race, most classes had sailed at least 36 races. The winners were: Optimist Green fleet, Meiling Chan Chow; Optimist Race fleet, Derek Poon Tip; Laser 4.7, Wesley Scott; Laser Standard, Andrew Lewis; Club 420, Daniel Briggs (skipper) and Dekife Charles (crew). Association hosted the final Budget Marine National Association hosted the final 2008 – 2009 season. On Dinghy Sailing Ranking for the sailed their final three this day the nation’s best sailors Premier’s Cup, at [email protected]. Premier’s Cup, at [email protected]. IC24 class has a weight limit of 700 to 850 pounds, with IC24 class has a weight limit will take place off a maximum of six crew. Racing Drake Channel. Nanny Cay Marina in Sir Francis will be low point with Multiple races will be run. Scoring score. the winner having the lowest Sailing 2009 – 2012, the sailing instructions, the class 2012, the sailing instructions, Sailing 2009 – instructions and the rules as changed by the sailing Yacht Club as prescriptions of the Royal BVI governing body. of the regatta, with a sponsoring Rotary Club and with a sponsoring Rotary Club of the regatta, drinks and is no entry fee. Food, soft Yacht Club. There are provided for competitors. accommodation Tortola, hosted by KATS and the Rotary Clubs by KATS and the Rotary Clubs Tortola, hosted of the BVI. — JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 charts. Fairtides! after itsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. after themoon’ssettingtojustitsnadir,tiderunseastward;andfrom the moonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjust ning totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutanhour month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon 20 1025 19 0920 18 0816 17 0718 16 0624 15 0536 14 0451 13 0408 12 0327 11 0246 10 0204 9 0121 8 0035 7 0000 6 2347 5 2257 4 2206 (full) 3 2114 2 2029 1 1936 DATE TIME July For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrun- Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill MERIDIAN PASSAGE OF THEMOON JULY &AUGUST2009 9 0208 8 0127 7 0046 6 0003 5 2343 4 2319 3 2232 2 2143 (full) 1 2053 DATE TIME August 31 2002 30 1915 29 1821 28 1732 27 1644 26 1557 25 1509 24 1419 23 1327 22 1230 21 1129 (new) 31 2115 30 2028 29 1938 28 1847 27 1756 26 1704 25 1613 24 1524 23 1435 22 1346 21 1256 20 1204 19 1110 18 1012 (new) 17 0910 16 0807 15 0704 14 0605 13 0510 12 0420 11 0333 10 0250 —Continuedonnextpage upgrade. Formoreinformationvisitwww.tdc.co.tt/media/?id=pr64.] animals youmightalsoseeinthewild. [ Go nextdoortotheEmperorValleyZoo (smallentryfee)forabetterlookatsome there isnotmuchinterpretivematerialaround theexotictreesandunusualflowers. get ataxitotakeyou. The handsignalformaxisistopointyour thumboveryourshoulder.Youcanalso Medical Clinicandwaitforamaxigoing to theSavannah(besureaskdriver). Savannah. Ifthedriversaysno,getout attheoverpassjustpastWestShore walk earlyinthemorningyoumighthearhowlermonkeys. tion alongthewayislushandsupportsmanybirdsbutterflies.Ifyoutake this goes upfivemilestotheCoastGuardRadioPostandanoldradardome.Thevegeta- where youwanttogo.Thisroadisverypopularwithlocalwalkersandbicyclists. It pedestrians. Youcanalsotakeamaxitaxitothefirestation;justtelldriver paved roaduphill.Sometimesthegateisclosed,butopentobikes and ter miletothefirestation.Takenextleftafterstationandfollow Association). ThereisaroadthatmakesYtotheleft;followit.Walkaboutquar- of SpainandstayontheroaduntiljustpastTTSA(TrinidadTobagoSailing station. Togetthere,walkalongthemainroadfrommarinaareatowardsPort in Chaguaramas.Forexample,thereisaniceshadywalkthatstartsbehindthefire help youmakeandkeepdateswithserviceprovidersinthemarineindustry. phone tomakeyourarrangementsfortripsandtaxipickups.Awillalso Chaguaramas whileyouwaitoutthehurricaneseason.Irecommendgettingacell do, thepeoplearefriendlyandfoodisgood. Ten ThingsToDo Walkitoff.Ahikeinlushtropicalnatureistheperfectantidotetoboatwork At theBotanicalGardens,entranceisfree butit’sworthpayingaguidebecause Take amaxitaxitowardsPortofSpain.Askthedriverifheisgoingto 2) GototheBotanicalGardensandZoo There areseveraltrailswithineasywalkingdistanceofthemarinasandboatyards 1) Takealocalhike Here areteneasyandinexpensivethingstodoinoraroundthemarinazoneof Trinidad isagreatplacetospendsometime.Itbigislandandtherelot …While theVarnishDries in Trinidad ALL ASHORE… by DeviSharp Editor’s note:Thezooisscheduledforan JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccc ...... gggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg magazine nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa sssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb ...... bwsailing.co.. ’s Cruising Classiﬁeds ’s The World’s Best Cruising Magazine The World’s wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww.w.w World Cruiser’s Cruiser’s World Blue Water Sailing wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww Online Resource BWS √ √ √ √ √ √ 2 Free Issues of 2 Free Worldwide Marine Worldwide Forecasts Weather 100s of Boat Reviews Latest Cruising News & Notes for Sale Exclusive Link to Yachts wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

DEVI SHARP (2) Continued from previous page Continued from There is a lot more to do. Go out and explore! Devi and her husband Hunter are currently exploring the Caribbean in their sailboat Hashing is an organized, friendly run or walk. There is a long history to this sport My favorite hike is to the Guanapo Gorges. We have done this trip twice and would 10) Take an organized hike or go on a hash 9) Go to a pan yard or a concert or call the local pan yards Look in the local paper for announcements of concerts Alternatively, book the Saturday market trip with Jesse James. Jesse or his driver Alternatively, book the Saturday market trip with Jesse 8) Buy fresh produce and fish at the market the fresh market in Port of You can buy your produce and fish for the week at Depending upon the time of year you might be able to book a trip to see leather- Depending upon the time of year you might be able to 7) Visit the Caroni Swamp or watch leatherback turtles lay eggs 7) Visit the Caroni Swamp or watch leatherback turtles and at dusk watch the For an amazing experience book a trip to the Caroni Swamp 6) Rent a bike rent bikes. We have rented bikes from Maxwill Inflatable There are several places to 5) Swim with the locals organize a trip to Maracas Beach. This beach, on the Get a taxi or rent a car and 4) Eat local food Roti Shack in Power Boats at Chaguaramas, or try Speaking of food, go to Grace’s 3) Take a trip to the Asa Wright Nature Centre to the Asa Wright Nature 3) Take a trip an abandoned mountain range on located in the central northern The Centre is Arctic Tern. and I leave it to you to do the research. The trail is laid out by local folks and is marked with shredded paper. You can run or walk in a group. At the end there is a bit of eating and drinking. The website for the Port of Spain Hash House Harriers is http://poshashhouse.tripod.com. go back again and again. We joined a trip organized by Jesse James. Jesse provides transportation and hires a professional hiking guide to lead you through the woods and into the gorge. Most of the hike is in the gorge, where you walk and float down the river in lifejackets. The vegetation is lush and the gorge is shady — a wonderful place to spend a day. to find out when the steel-pan bands are practicing (usually twice per week). Most to find out when the steel-pan bands are practicing but it can be well worth likely you will need to book a taxi for delivery and pick-up, the expense to hear the music and perhaps dance a bit. will pick you up at your marina or boatyard at about 6:30 in the morning. After an will pick you up at your marina or boatyard at about stands, you load your produce hour of marketing and eating breakfast at one of the store. With a bit of planning in the van then take a half-hour dash through a grocery this can be your provisioning run for the week. Spain. The produce is here fresh from the fields and a lot less expensive than at the Spain. The produce is here fresh from the fields and a terminal in Port of Spain and supermarkets. Take a bus from Chaguaramas to the walk the few blocks to the market. back turtles lay their eggs (March to September is the turtle-nesting season), or see back turtles lay their eggs (March to September is the and the largest living reptile the babies hatching. The leatherback is the largest turtle as six-and-a-half feet and in the world. Mature males and females can be as long weigh almost 2,000 pounds. return of Scarlet Ibis to their roosts. The ibis are elegant birds that look like red return of Scarlet Ibis to their roosts. The ibis are elegant be lucky and also see a silky Christmas decorations on the green trees. You might the ibis roost. anteater or a boa curled up high in a tree en route to repair. You can use the bike to do your errands, take a pleasure ride to the end of to do your errands, take a pleasure ride to the end repair. You can use the bike sta- from Port of Spain), bike up the road behind the fire the road (opposite direction and the many roads and trails near the golf course tion (see #1 above) or explore nearby Tucker Valley. north side of the island in a protected bay, is where Trinis go to party. The swimming protected bay, is where Trinis go to party. The swimming north side of the island in a is excellent. There are several “bake and shark” is good and the people-watching this delicious Trini favorite food. The bakes are similar stands where you can enjoy fried and the sandwich is topped with a wide assort- to fry bread, the shark is also are freshwater showers available. ment of condiments. There one of the other roadside food stands. In the morning you can find doubles outside stands. In the morning you can find doubles outside one of the other roadside food and also on the main road near the Military History the gate at Power Boats and an interesting stop with a nominal entry fee. Aviation Museum, which is coffee and cocoa plantation. In 1967, the now 100-year-old house and the associ- now 100-year-old house plantation. In 1967, the coffee and cocoa 193 acres were and the surrounding were turned into a guesthouse ated buildings The Asa Wright of the animals and habitat. and protection dedicated to conservation butterflies, take and photograph birds and is a great place to watch Nature Centre while you watch have tea on the veranda swim at a waterfall and walks in the woods, with Jesse a one-day trip or an overnight at the feeder. You can book hummingbirds rate for your visit Jesse will get you a good Only Maxi Taxi Service. James’ Members involves a culinary feast at a “doubles” (a popular and the trip to the Centre usually of fried dough and spiced chickpeas) stand. form of street food consisting — JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 = US$1.08) rency; asthisissueof ermen cametotradelobstersforrum.Noproblem! tricity orwateratdock.Shortlyafterwearrived,fish- restaurant, scubadivingandminorsupplies.Noelec- is availableaswellexpensivedieselfuel,abarand is new,butabitrustic,thoughinternationalclearance green buoystotheconcretemarinadock.This had aneasiertimeofit,prevailingwind-andwave-wise. coast, butthosesailingeasttowestalongthesouthcoast from HavanaaroundCuba’swestendandalongthesouth Cienfuegos. de laJuventud,southeasttoCayoLargo. east andeast-northeasttoPuertoCortés. around CaboSanAntoniotoMarialaGorda,south- and Havana. Yucatan Channel(GulfStream)toCaboSanAntonio their recentcruiseofthewesternhalfCuba. aboard theircatamaran.Hereshesharesdetailsof Marina berth=18CUC/day Fuel =1.4CUC/liter(CUCistheCubantourismcur- Entry WP21°55.5N,084°55.6W,thenfollowredand • CABOSANANTONIOMARINA,LOSMORROS Marinas/Anchorages We followedtherecommendedcounterclockwiseroute East toCayoGuanadelEste,north-northeast East-southeast toCayosdeSanFelipe,eastIsla Southwest viaanchoragesbacktoCayosdelaLeña, From IslaMujeres,Mexico,east-northeastacrossthe Our RoutestoMajorPorts THE CRUISING UPDATE PartOne:MarinasandAnchorages WESTERN CUBA Compass bySuzanneAustin

the mid-Caribbean are currentlycruising rapher-captain husband author andherphotog- goestopress,oneCUC

urban delights. ences rangingfromanchoragetranquilityto Havana toCienfuegos,offersarichvarietyofexperi- A cruisearoundthewesternpartofCuba,from vibrant OldHavana Above: NotriptoCubaiscompletewithoutavisit —Continuedonnextpage boat perweek. (Hemingway InternationalYachtClub)atUS$10per in theon-siteClubNaúticoInternacionalHemingway Points ofinterestareannouncedenroute. hour. 5CUCallowsyoutoridealldayonanyroute. deckers thatoperateonthreedifferentroutesevery minutes) hasbeenreplacedbyHAVANATURdouble- citizens’ use)maybeusedinmarketsandstreetstalls. for foreignvisitors.Nationalpesos(cashintended of cashinConvertibleCubanPesos(CUC)isthenorm cards fromnon-USbankscanbeusedatpresent.Use become legaltenderagain.OnlycreditcardsandATM US-Cuba policychangesmayallowtheUSdollarto 20-percent levyonUSdollarsisdeducted.Future and with goodpricesonrum,wineandbeer.Supermarket rants (especiallyPizzaNova)aswellamini-market used forpotlucks,andthereareseveralgoodrestau- a walkorbikerideaway.Anon-sitesnackbarcanbe may beusedwithdiscretion,ortheofficialfreepoolis Old ManandtheSeaHotelisclosed).Thehotelpool docks. Internet(6CUC/hour)atnewhotelonsite(The both docks.Potablewaterandelectricityavailableon along cementcanaldocks.Havegoodfendersreadyon many officials,andthenreceiveaberthassignment must stopfirstattheGuardadocktoclearinwith 22°37.8N, 84°12.6W.Buoysabsent. feet) vessels.ExitthereefatPasaRoncadora,WP done insidethereefforshallow-draft(lessthansix overnight passageaway.Halfofthatcanbe US$20 feewascollectedatMarinaHemingway,an work, butallCubanofficialsarepoliteandfriendly. Veterinarian forpetclearance(US$10).Lotsofpaper- (who willconfiscatefreshmeatandeggs) vessel inspectionwithasniffingspaniel),Agriculture person), theGuarda(whodoaverythoroughinterior It isstillworthwhiletobuyatemporarymembership The freeshuttlebusintotheCityofHavana(30 Currently, Eurosbringthebestexchangerate,asa Entry WP23°05.4N,082°30.6W.Visitingyachts • MARINAHEMINGWAY,HAVANA Customs didnothavetherequired“stamp”,sothat Officials includeCustoms,Immigration(US$15per cajeta

(moneychanger)nearby. CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS/CRUISING GUIDE TO CUBA TO GUIDE PUBLICATIONS/CRUISING GUIDE CRUISING JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 The our time), PM (2:00 PM , Revised 1999; Charles, Simon. ANCHORAGE

Edition, 1997.

, read Part Two: Sightseeing in Western Cuba and a list of ANCHORAGE

, 2nd CIENFUEGOS BAY , Cuba: A Cruising Guide ANCHORAGE Compass

In next month’s WP 21°37.806N, 81°56.507W. This was a tranquil way station on the east side of a tranquil way station on 81°56.507W. This was WP 21°37.806N, • CAYO LARGO been changed The entry buoys have WP 21°34.538N, 81°56.50W. Western reef pass • CAYO GUANO DEL ESTE Entry WP 22°03N, 80°27.3W. Well buoyed up the narrow river into the wide bay to Entry WP 22°03N, 80°27.3W. Well buoyed up the narrow maintained, with good man- The marina docks in the Punta Gorda quarter are well • CANAL DEL ROSARIO • CANAL DEL stark, rockbound island couldn’t be more of a con- WP 21°39.8N, 81°02.4W. This • MARINA JAGUA Within walking distance from the marina are excellent restaurants, bars and Within walking distance from the marina are excellent ice-cream parlor downtown) Our favorite eatery (other than the great Coppelia peso pulling the cart) passes forThe horse-and-cart route (or the variant with a bicyclist Marina berth = US$.40/foot/day Fuel = 1CUC/liter * Calder, Nigel. useful resources. Cayo del Rosario, protected from the outside reef through which we would need to reef through which we protected from the outside Cayo del Rosario, side near the anchorage on the west our way east. There is another pass to make Monkey Refuge. and neverovernight outside of the marina confusing. We anchored and are a bit and clear water. spot, with much wildlife officials. This is a beautiful encountered any mainland andcompletely separated from the resort is extensive, though The five-hotel the well-marked channel via the eastern reef pass. everyday Cuban life. We exited Cruising Guide to Cuba the marina: WP 22°07.5N, 80°27.2W. dog. Very friendly officials, agement and Immigration/Customs offices on site. No had known that the required though it would have helped save us an entire day if we also available at the marina “stamps” for our exit clearance from Immigration were that Cuba had changed to and not just downtown at the bank. Not realizing at 3:00 “Summer Time” on March 1st, with the bank closing trast from lush Cayo Largo. The lighthouse makes a good landmark. Arrive early to The lighthouse makes a good landmark. Arrive early trast from lush Cayo Largo. an charter boats out of Cienfuegos struggled for over get the best holding, as several through the “prohibited zone” hour to get successfully dug in. They blindly crossed helicopters or patrol boats, of the infamous Bay of Pigs, with no consequences from way due to the more favorable so we decided to chance it the next day for part of the course “inside the lines”. No problems. required several trips back and forth from bank to Immigration to the marina over required several trips back and forth from bank to Immigration two 25CUC stamps (one for two days. Also, the bank only had 50CUC stamps, but not be refunded on site, and each passport) were required! The wrong stamp could We certainly got to know the we had to wait until it was resold to another customer. benches. local transportation system well: horse-drawn carts with wine, rum, etcetera. We hotels, as well as an on-site mini-market with duty-free at the nearby four-star Hotel arrived just in time to celebrate this writer’s birthday in the dining room were really Jagua. Serenades by the bar pianist and the guitarist European hotel guests came lovely, and a special moment came when several of the up after dinner to add their felicitations. to the marina with ornate was the beachfront Club Cienfuegos, a mansion next-door marble interiors and French-influenced cuisine. del Prado or Malecón — thethree miles to the downtown city along the scenic Paseo a manageable scale, with thelongest waterfront street in Cuba. Cienfuegos is on with cafés, shops and marketpedestrian-only Avenida 54 (called “El Bulevar”) filled with Creole echoes from thestalls. The colonial architecture is fairly well preserved, revolt in 1797 to establish theFrench planters who left Haiti after the Toussaint slave 19th and 20th centuries.sugar plantations which made this area wealthy in the Quintessential Cuba — classic American cars and Spanish colonial buildings

. . : WP 21°54.736N, 84°02.850W. We had the protec-

ANCHORAGE Compass

ANCHORAGES

ANCHORAGE

ANCHORAGE, CAYOS DE SAN FELIPE … and more!

Lighting and Boats Read in Next On a Tugboat in Bonaire Month’s Continued from previous page Continued from • CAYOS DE LA LEÑA Shallow draft vessels can continue south-southwest inside the reef all the way to CaboShallow draft vessels can continue the fish station here while awaiting weather to roundMany cruisers anchor near Francés for Puerto Cortés, but the head-on winds and We intended to round Cabo • CAYO REAL • ESTERO SIMON ANCHORAGE and making excellent time WP 21°53.708N, 82°44.920W. Sailing (actually!) north Quebrado la Galera reef entry: WP 22°41.4N, 84°12.6W, marked with a buoy. Well- Quebrado la Galera reef entry: • MARIA LA GORDA anchorage is in sand off of the beach of the dive WP 21°49.0N, 83°30.0W. The Cortés, from where we were Across the Laguna was the large fishing port of Puerto • MARINA DARSENA DE SIGUANEA, ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD fuel up at this dive-ori- Entry WP 21°37N, 82°59W. Originally intending to just • CAYO JUTIAS is best done early with a light northeast wind; then it’s Easy rounding of the Cape • PUERTO CORTÉS East/west entry and exit, WP 22°03.067N, 83°57.534W • LAGUNA DE CORTÉS change from Calder’s and WP 22°02.330N, 83°58.001W. This is an IMPORTANT the west end of the Cayo WP 21°58.6N, 083°37.4W. This idyllic anchorage is off Marina berth = $.50/foot/day, plus small fee for electricity and water. fee for electricity and water. = $.50/foot/day, plus small Marina berth private supplier = .80CUC/liter = 1CUC/liter. Fuel from Fuel on the dock • CAYO MORILLO stakes marking 83°23.4W. Follow la Mulata reef entry: WP 22°57.6N, Quebrado de While membership no longer provides a marina-berth discount, the yacht club a marina-berth discount, no longer provides While membership Backing Up Your Onboard Laptop San Antonio, hugging the outside reef until the Golfo de Guanahacabibes widens up.San Antonio, hugging the outside a strong norther coming, we chose the Canal de Barcos Cabo San Antonio, but with and uncomfortable, so we waves made our progress slow, dangerous to our boat, an open roadstead, off the found a “new” acceptable anchorage for the night, albeit small fishing village of La Furnia: the usual northwest anchor- up the west coast of Isla de la Juventud, we bypassed age of Ensenada de los Barcos, and sailed past the capital of Nueva Gerona to the second bay on the northeast of the island. As promised by Calder, the hilly landscape was dramatic, and it placed us well for an early morning motor through the main Pasa de Quitasol (entry WP 21°55.895N, 82°39.571W) into the relatively calm Golfo de Batabano for a pleasant full-day southeast sail. protected anchorage off the beach, in line with a lighthouse. protected anchorage off the come to check your papers and the boat. Great snorkel- resort. Officials (no dog) will ing and diving. ferried out to our boat by a paid a visit two mornings later by the local Guardia, and the fisherman clued us in fisherman. He just checked our papers, with no dog, western exit, which had to the hurricane damage, recommending a straightforward knowledge! been cleared by the fishing vessels. Nothing beats local at the nearby Bahia ented “marina”, and then proceed to the protected anchorage autopilot/navigation instru- de San Pedro, a temporary electrical glitch with our Because of this, the initially ments forced us to remain at the dock overnight. process, complete with cursory glance at our papers turned into a lengthy official was waiting for two hours dog, the next morning. The most stressful part of this their daily scuba trips. Berth until all the individual divers had been checked in for = 16CUC. No services. an easterly overnight slog in prevailing winds to the next anchorage. an easterly overnight slog in the previous passage between Charles’ entry instructions*. Hurricanes have silted in fortunately gently. After the reefs and we went aground on the expanded sandbar, we anchored on a small bumping slowly inside, carefully watching the other shoals, part of the Laguna to wait out bay around the hook of the land in the scenic western protected by the man- three days of very strong easterly winds and waves, perfectly groves and land. — a perfect respite from and offers clear warm water for swimming and snorkeling the southeast day sail from the really hard motoring in the preceding days, though From there on to Isla de la Laguna Cortés was most pleasant with light easterlies. Cayos de San Felipe and the Juventud, we had the wave-flattening protection of the have gone directly to the top Cayos de los Indios. Had we not needed fuel, we would Gerona, we opted for the of the island, but not wishing to go into the city of Nueva southwest corner instead. Enter from the northeast at WP 21°55.5N, 84°48.5W. The deep-water canal is bor- Enter from the northeast at excellent protection to wait out a three-day norther. dered by mangroves and offered prevailing easterlies, the hold- tion of the peninsula before Cabo Francés against the boat. ing in sand was excellent and no one approached the interior shoals up to the channel between Cayo Morillo and the mainland. This is an between Cayo Morillo and the mainland. This is interior shoals up to the channel with perfect all-round protection. Boats with idyllic anchorage in the mangroves need to anchor nine miles east in Bahia Honda more than six-foot draft will facilities are very nice, with excellent 2CUC mojitos, light food and satellite TV, and mojitos, light food and nice, with excellent 2CUC facilities are very all appearances, nights for yachties. From and entertainment occasional barbecues sailing, that can afford boats, competitive an affluent class in Cuba there is still young. and regattas for their kayak instruction — JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 into thewater. moment myhandwastrappedbetweenthepropandlineIsawbloodleaking clearly seethebottomandreckonedIwasinlessthaneightmetresofwater.Fora with theknife,whichsuddenlyseemedlesssharpthanIhadimagined.couldnow there wasnooneelseonboardtolendahand.Backinthewaterandbacksawing the sailsdown! board andanotherquicklookshoreward—nowtherewasdefinitelynotimetoget from thesternwithafenderattachedbeforecuttingfishtrapfree.Backon the boardingladder.Infact,itwasatthismomentIthoughtoftrailingalongrope gather waydownwind,andImightjustgetleftbehindbeforecouldahandon nasty thoughtstoppedmedead.IfIcuttheropeboatwouldimmediately under tension,theturnswereverytight,andboatwasbuckingrolling)a patiently sawingawayonwhatfeltlikeveryhardplastic(ofcourse,thelinewas definitely closernow!ShouldItaketimetogetthesailsdown? sea roomwasleftbetweentheboatandwavesbreakingonreefs.Theywere ing slowlyalthoughtheenginewasnotrunning. P-bracket andtheprop.Muchtootighttounwrap—propmusthavebeenturn- were afewverytightwrapsroundtheshaft,andfloatwaswedgedbetween Turning therudderproducedabsolutelynoeffect. knot, directlytowardsthewindwardcoastofMartiniquedistantperhapshalfamile. where theropewas.Theboatwasnowheadingdownwindatprobablylessthana hadn’t triedfiringuptheengine,asIdidn’tknow before decidingwhethertogetthesailsdown.I important) andplungedoverthesidewithamask rudder. Iputtheboardingladderinplace(VERY sure iftheboatwascaughtbypropor minute asIpassedittowindward,butwasnot fishpot some50metresbelow. a 3/8-inchbluepolypropylenelineleadingto a moderatewind,canbetetheredtothebottomby quite overwhelminglyclose. just below,allthisdeadweightinmovementlooks Bequia Marina At lasttheropepartedandIcoulddislodgefloatunwrapremaining The transomwasbangingupanddownjustabovemyheadamongthewaves, No, let’sgetstarted:Ibeganbycuttingthroughtheturnsonshaft.While So, backonboardtofetchasharpknifewhiletakinglookseejusthowmuch Once overtheside,Ifounditwasagoodthinghadnottriedmotorasthere I hadseenthedreadedfloatbobunderatlast So itissurprisingthatseventonsofboatevenin L The YachtClub,BequiaMarina, PortElizabeth,Bequia, Water, Diesel,Ice,BottledWater andDockageavailable. Open MondaytoSaturday8:00a.m.4:00p.m. and downonthewaveswhileyouarediving a lotofsailboat.Iftheboatisbouncingup ooked atfrombelowthewater,11metresis VHF 68,Telephone784-457-3361 St. Vincent&TheGrenadines Look forthe Big BlueBuilding FISHTRAPS . by JeremyHobday tions youcouldloseyourboat,orevenlifeifsailingcloseinshore. at theveryleastbothersome,andsometimesdownrightdangerous.Inbadcondi- take everyprecautiontoavoidfishtrapfloatsandotherfloatingobjects.Theycanbe contra-rotating propswhichwereunbelievablyencumberedintheheavymesh),I a longtimeinthewaterwithcourageousDominicancrewmancuttingfree some yearsagoofftheleewardcoastofSt.Martininmymotorsailerandspending Perhaps theyareworththepriceafterall? have hearddifferentreportsoftheirusefulness—also,theyareveryexpensive. do tomewhendivingcleantheprop. rope. Ithoughtaboutasharpenededge,andthenagainwhatitmight rudder cleareditwhenturning,withflushfasteningspresentingnogriptoafloating down infrontofthecrackbetweenitandsemi-balancedrudder,fittedso boat Ifittedasmallnose-pieceoffoldedstainlesstothefrontskeghang to pay. blue antifoulingbytheverytautropeandmovementofboat.Asmallprice eventually turnedintoasmallbluetattoowheretheskinwascrushedagainst the bottom,andthensailedoutofdangerwhileIwasstillsufficientlyfaroffshore. Alternatively, Ishouldhavejustcutthefishtraplinewhereitleftboattowards enough tothinkofafterwards.Thesafetylineasternwas,however,agoodidea. wheel brake,anticipatingthepossibilityofgettingleftbehindinwater!Easy urgent bythesecond.Ishouldalsohaveturnedwheelhardoverandapplied taken toolong(asIwassailingsingle-handed),butthesituationgettingmore Fishtrap floatsareoftendifficulttospot After afewexperiencesofthistype(forinstance,runningintohalf-floatingnet I havethoughtaboutbuyingpatent“cuttingdiscs”tofitonthepropshaft,but No, thisisnotthefirsttimeIhavebeencaughtlikeafishonline.Onmylast This timeIhadnothingworsethanaburnmarkorgrazeonmylefthand,which Our stock,quality,price,know-howand fishingexperienceisunsurpassed YOUR #1CHOICEINFISHINGGEAR Mustad Hooks FISHING &DIVINGGEAR Penn &Diawa Anglers Lures Rods &Reels TACKLE SHOP TEL: (784)458-3420FAX: 458-3797 LULLEY‘S Wire, Floats,Nets,Twines,Ropes EMAIL: [email protected] Visit usforallyourneeds ! DUTY FREE Foul WeatherGear Rigged &Unrigged situation —droppingthemainsailmighthave up thegenoabeforeinspectingunderwater being shipwrecked. danger, Ifullyrealizedthathadbeenverycloseto draws nearlytwometres!Whilemotoringoutof or fivemetresbeneaththehull—andkeel close andtherecouldnothavebeenmorethanfour and turnedtheboatseawards. an icefloeandsecondslaterhadstartedtheengine came outofthewaterfasterthanapenguinonto ated boatstartedmovingshorewardinearnest.I lungs. LuckilyIcouldgrabtheladderasliber- turns ontheshaftbeforegettingsomeairintomy On reflection,Ithinkshouldhaveatleastrolled Afterthoughts Not amomenttoosoon.Thebreakerswerereally Fresh Bait Leaders SERVING FISHERMENAND FRONT STREET WEST INDIES YACHTSPEOPLE BEQUIA SINCE 1950 —Continued onnextpage Collectable Knives Courtesy Flags & DivingGear Snorkeling JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 S/Y Tchin. up the windward coast of Martinique) up the windward A sharp knife on the end of a three-metre pole wielded fromA sharp knife on the end of that can be of use to Is there any aspect of fishfloats very fresh fish or shellfish Yes. You can sometimes buy is in Finally, let us hope that fishermen will realize that it in navigation channels). So beware: coastal sailing at nightin navigation channels). So even when using well markedpresents considerable risk, passes between the reefs. some situations, but this maythe deck may be useful in and an additional hazard onpresent a stowage problem lamp would make diving in theboard. A waterproof frontal seas, or even better would bedark a possibility in reasonable With winds of more than Forcea dive partner with a torch. desperate escapade! 5, I dread to think of the ensuing the yachtsman? hauling up his catch. You can from the fisherman who is by checking if the buoys are sometimes read the current are bobbing and jerking in lying to the wind or if they fishtraps are placed very close another direction. Very often the reef edge, and so provide a to reefs, often grouped along position if visibility in the useful indication of the reef’s water is poor. However, seeing a float does not necessarily mean there is a reef! pos- their best interests to reduce this hazard as much as on sible, and a single, easily visible float with no line trailing had no intention of tacking inshore until I could lay the passage into of tacking inshore until I had no intention Recently, because of strong headwinds that seemed to moderate at night, I set sail seemed to moderate at of strong headwinds that Recently, because and we can keep ourPerhaps they will be able to conserve their traps and markers, Jeremy Hobday is cruising the Caribbean aboard and even 15 miles off the coast. and even 15 miles trip Robert (a five- to seven-hour from Marin to were lying in a This time the floats or two to spare before dark. with an hour parallel to their tacking offshore nearly direction and I was northeast-southwest of the boat like were not laid out in front for once, the fishtrap lines direction so, small course by close-hauled with only wires, and I could slide transverse trip the minefields hundred-metre contour and By dark I was outside the adjustments. I were behind me. showed me an later, a three-quarter moon However, four hours the Baie du Robert. pass (and indeed I have often seen floats placed directlyoccasional float as I closed the the surface seems to be the best solution. boats out of this particular trouble. S . However, A

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However, as a rough guide, if you see a “real” buoy, or a white cube of polystyrene, However, as a rough guide, if you see a “real” buoy, or greater or lesser concentra- Fishfloats are to be found all over the Caribbean in There are areas like minefields with floats and lines covering an acre or more (the There are areas like minefields with floats and lines covering you have to cut his line as Evidently, it is just as unfortunate for a fisherman that Do not forget either, that if you see one fishtrap buoy, you are almost certain to be Do not forget either, that if you see one fishtrap buoy, Colourless bottles are very difficult to see when sailing towards the sun — they are when sailing towards the are very difficult to see Colourless bottles What precautions should one take? What precautions of a float, in every possible declension that fishtrap markers come I have noticed Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 chances are it is the last float in the line, so preferably 100 metres depth (how does tions. I have even come across examples at more than has never seen the bottom?), the fisherman decide just where to locate them when he windward coast of Martinique off Islet Cabrit and Islet Hardy, for instance) with up windward coast of Martinique off Islet Cabrit and Islet out on a floating line. Each to 50 fishtraps each located by up to seven floats strung lying across your path. Work line represents around ten metres of floating trip wire through, and you and your it out — there is no straight course that will carry you escalating shouting matches!) crew (work out a system of signals beforehand to avoid and end of each line in will be straining all eyes forward to make out the beginning than you meet the next one. order to slalom past. No sooner have you avoided one to avoid it, and some- Sometimes you barely have enough way on after a manoeuvre times you are obliged to come about — if you can. even more regulations in our it is to yourself. What is the solution? Heaven forbid Lines which come straight over-regulated lives, but what about a bit of cooperation? the least hazard to a passing up from the bottom to a round floating buoy present aside even if the boat passes boat. The likelihood is that the boat will push the float either prop or rudder. This is directly over it and the line will not be snagged by stop your propeller as you particularly true if you are sailing. If motoring, you should unless it is hung on the pass. Also, take the precaution of centering your rudder back of a long keel so it tends not to hook the line. towards the depths. Should you go about? Is there time? Will the keel just clear the towards the depths. Should you go about? Is there time? bob under, even if you are line when you are heeled? If you see the float suddenly already past it, you have been caught again. in an area where there are others. Redouble your vigilance. just occasionally a fisherman will add two or three bottles or just a tail of floating just occasionally a fisherman will add two or three bottles so do not relax until they are rope after the main float to make his recovery easier, behind you. totally camouflaged by the reflection from the wavelets. In other conditions they are the wavelets. In other conditions by the reflection from totally camouflaged line starts and to know where the floating but it is extremely difficult fairly visible, and adjusting to windward, pinching when you think you have passed finishes. Just that the float- (if you are very wide-awake) you suddenly see the sails to a maximum, the surface for another few metres before plunging ing line continues just below ranging from a humble, transparent Coca-Cola bottle (or a string of them), to a block bottle (or a string of a humble, transparent Coca-Cola ranging from a flag marker. or even a real buoy with of polystyrene, — JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 since enjoyedcruisingtheCaribbean. when they,fortunately,reachedland. absolutely nothingforsurvivaleitheratseaor lost theirboatoffTobago,shipwreckedwith go. Welearnedthesenseofthiswhenfriends ports, creditcards,moneyandthelikereadyto make alongpassagewealwayshaveourpass- together andgetourgrabbag.Wheneverwe with thatfact,andpreparetoabandonship. was nowveryslim.Wehadtocometerms The chanceofmakinglandfalltoget The waterwasuptothetopofbatteries. hand bilgepumpandHelencontinuedtohelm. small inspectionhatches. ing toseethewatersquirtingoutofacouple boards werescreweddown,butitwasfrighten- into theareatoslowwateringress.Thesole hid whateverhadhappened.Istuffedcushions the baseofdoubleberth.Theblacktank mast electrics. water. Seawaterhadcoveredthekeel-stepped the companionwaysteps,myfootsplashedinto causing theproblem.Reachingbottomof playing upandIwentbelowtoseewhatwas my chinhard. unceremoniously dumpedonthefloor,hitting ing herarm.Sleepinginthecockpit,Iwas stop. Helenhitthewheel,bendingitandhurt- boat strucksomethingandcametoatemporary back tosixknotsovertheground. holes wemetintheoceanwereknockingus at eightknotsoverthewater.However, northwesterly swell,wewereeatingupthemiles ally creptroundtosouthofeast,withalumpy duly cameup. night sailwithabitofmoonlight,sothemoon true sowereefeddown.Helenprefersafriendly northeast at14to18knots,setin20knots ready foranovernightsail.Theforecastedwind, Gorda Soundtogettheboatandourselves the 120-oddmilesailtoSt.Kittswepausedin time atalltodothis. now onlyafootorsooutofthewaterittookno situ dinghy ontheforedeckwithoutboard miss theraftaltogether.Wehadstored liferaft unaided.Anymistakeandwecould she wouldnothavebeenabletoswimthe waterproofs (ithadrainedandwasquitecold) Helen hadfulluseofonlyonearmandin wind andtidealthoughstilltetheredto automatically andimmediatelywentoffdown eraft fromitsbracketonthestern.Itfireditself Between 5:30and6:00 Helen wentbelowtogettheemergencykit I backedupthetwoelectricpumpswith In theforwardcabin,waterwascomingoutof An hourlaterthewindinstrumentsstarted Going belowIcouldnotseeanythingwrong. At around2:20 Although thewindgustedto23andoccasion- After clearingBVICustomsonApril1stfor H . Idecidedtolaunchit,andasthebowwas her in2004Portugal,andhave 1990. Sovereign 470commissionedin elenMaryGee AM My wife,Helen,andI , with Helen on the helm, the , withHelenonthehelm, AM , Ilaunchedthelif-

is aSpanish-built HMG bought HMG lifted in . by Paul Glavin Helen MaryGee The Lossofthe we cutthelineto grabbing ontothelinetoliferaft.Wefloatedliferaft,and,clippingon it, seemed wewerelosingoneofoursurvivaloptions,buttherereallywasnochoice. towards horse enginewasnotmanenoughintheseastotowraftquartermileback disappearing inthewrongdirection.Idecidedtostartoutboard,butfive- course, Isaid,seeingthesenseofscenario. said forcefully.Havinggottenhersandals,sheasked,“Wouldyoulikeyours?”Of am notwalkingaroundtheshopstobuyclothesinsailingbootsandshorts,”she good sensewomenhave,refusedtoabandontheboatwithoutherdecksandals.“I handheld radioandGPS,lastly,theEPIRB,whichIswitchedon.Helen,with biscuits andachangeofclothesforeachus,thewaterproofgrabbag,chart, —Continuedonnextpage ghy towardsthem. changing coursetoheadforus.Having worked outthereciprocalIheadedourdin- were abletorelayourmessages. fix, whichIwasthenabletogive,asthehand-held GPShadnowfoundourposition. over andthatouryachthadsunk wewereinadinghy.Theywantedbetter CROSAG pickeditup.Igaveourpositionas 20milesnorthwestofSaba.Ihadtoexplain another Mayday.AfewminuteslaterIrepeated theMayday.TheFrenchCoastGuard to markherjourneythebottomsome13001400metersbelow. blue wateroftheCaribbeanSea.Cushionsandafenderortwowereallthatwas left looking attheseawithbladesslowlyturning,beforefinallyvanishingbeneath the more minutesjustunderthesurface,herwindgeneratorbentlikeagiantsunflower the aftcabinwasforcedoutandthenshestartedherfinalvoyage.Sheheldfora few stern intheairandrudderoutofwater,likeaduckfeeding,untiltrapped in water andthe22-metermastwithmainsailstillsetdisappeared.Shestayedlikethat, Once thewaterpassedsprayhooditmadeitswaydownmainhatch. then underwateruptohermastandthewaveswerewashingoversprayhood. and toleaveherasshefoughtsurvivewouldhaveseemeddisloyal.Shewas by We motoredbackalongside I letoffaflareandcalledMaydayonthehandheldVHF.TheislandofSabawas I heldonto I gotintothedinghyandHelenpassedmetwoflarepacks,asmallbagwithwater, Another yacht, Re-gaining courage,weturnedtowards Saba. Iletoffanotherflareandputout Slowly themastrockedfurtherandforward.Thesternrosehigheroutof HMG HMG , sowelettheliferaftgo.Thatwasaharddecisiontomake,asit Dreamcatcher ofJersey HMG whileHelenclimbeddown.Wethendroppedbacktothestern, . not longbeforeherlastvoyage charges throughtheBritishVirginIslands— With Helenatthehelm, HMG Dreamcatcher . Shehadbeenourhomeforthepasttwoyears , hadalsoheardourMaydayandthecrew wasonlyeightmilesawayand Helen MaryGee

JUNE 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

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Fishing Boats at Harbor American Yacht WWW.IGY-AMERICANYACHTHARBOR.COM © 2009 Island Global Yachting Global Island 2009 © Helen and I met up with Roger at the ATM, where he happily announced to us that where he happily announced up with Roger at the ATM, Helen and I met We said our goodbyes to Roger and Lucyna. I think they were quite sad to see us We said our goodbyes to Roger and Lucyna. I think they it or not, we are tenta- It is a month and a half since we lost the boat and, believe are frightened of water or The thing about cruising is this. It doesn’t matter if you as you are fit enough, I Once you’ve had a taste of the cruising life, and as long The wedding was to be on D The wedding donated by the flowers, bougainvillea, arrived. I chased down Wednesday morning surgery on her arm had eventually been organized by Helen’s flight to England for Paul and Helen were sailing from Virgin Gorda to St. Kitts when Paul and Helen were sailing from Virgin Gorda to St. Kitts miles northwest of Saba. Luckily, another yacht was nearby he and Lucyna were getting married! They had arranged it for Wednesday at 10:00 had arranged it for Wednesday were getting married! They he and Lucyna found a merchant in Tortola who kindly processed the payment through their termi- found a merchant in Tortola who kindly processed the agent in St. Kitts. nal. What a contrast to our experience with the travel to England. go. They are coming to stay with us on one of their trips warm house in Dorset, I tively making plans for the next one. Sitting in our lovely son commented to his am starting to cut the grass with scissors. Our neighbour’s for them?” mother, “Don’t you think Sutton Poyntz will be a bit dull and exciting, both at the storms. Working a boat and going with nature is frightening or three weeks, we meet new same time. And on every trip we make, two hours you pay for the boat as long as people on the way. It really doesn’t matter how much her. You can, with common it is seaworthy and comfortable and you are proud of For our part, the joy of cruis- sense and by adjusting your plans, keep out of danger. ing is being together with our soul mate. we will rise from the ashes. don’t think there is anything better. Like the Phoenix, before our scheduled departure time of one o’clock, as they wanted us to be wit- one o’clock, as they wanted departure time of before our scheduled really wonderful. nesses. This was he would have mentioned to Roger that wedding dress. It was also went to buy the mind. We invited to have slipped his ring, something that seemed to find a wedding to come along and cheer. neighboring boats boat was made the alcohol, while the his garden, and collected hairdresser from the to spare. The Registrar was already on board, ready, getting back with minutes a hitch, and it was lovely to see so many happy smiling ceremony went off without in wedding breakfast with Roger and Lucyna at Melini’s faces. We were invited to a and gesture on their part. This rolled into lunchtime Jolly Harbour Marina, a lovely flights back to England. into the time to leave for our agent only had facility to take VISA with the customer a travel agent in Tortola. The her she said that we could send the money to present, but under the circumstances That meant that she would trust me with about when we got back to England. a a phone call. I could not accept that, as hers was only US$900 on the strength of time delay would be too great. I contacted VISA and they very small business and the

WWW.YACHTSHOTSBVI.COM sank. HMG went down. HMG , making for St. Kitts. We had a really brisk sail, . with great relief and boarded her. with great relief would have revelled in it. HMG terra firma Dreamcatcher Dreamcatcher Dreamcatcher and us, making it easy for them to spot us, a small low target in a very a small low target in a very it easy for them to spot us, and us, making Continued from previous page Continued from One of our favourite CDs, Bob Marley’s music, went down with the boat and we The next day we went off to St John, a wonderful bustling Caribbean town. The Having thanked everyone, we left St. Kitts in the early hours. As you might guess, While we were talking to the Coast Guard, the port captain arranged for a cab for At the port authority office, the officer in charge, although brusque, organized We left the travel agent in Basseterre almost in tears, however. Unhelpful and The abiding memory for Helen was looking out to the lonely place where The abiding memory for Helen was looking out to the lonely ship destination, shops fea- We arrived in the main square in Basseterre. A cruise On our way to Saba, the rescue helicopter turned up and hovered overhead, On our way to Saba, the rescue helicopter turned how daunting getting there Hours later, we dropped the hook at Saba. I realized ahead for a berth. He was Arriving at the harbour in Basseterre, Roger radioed They were heading for Saba, St. Kitts and then Antigua. All Helen and I wanted to They were heading for Saba, St. Kitts and then Antigua. We left Saba aboard Helen and I then sat down with a cup of tea and we cried. sat down with a cup of Helen and I then of our soaking- very welcome. To have all our rescuers, made us Roger and Lucyna, Helen watched the horizon and at last spotted the white sails. She let off another the white sails. She the horizon and at last spotted Helen watched wanted to get a replacement. We were directed to Eddie’s shop in the rather ques- tionable vendors’ mall, upstairs in a corner surrounded by the local unemployed. Going in and asking for Eddie we were told “not here”. Explaining we wanted to replace our lost Marley music a beaming smile broke out and our man acknowledged being Eddie’s cousin. He went to the CD collection on the Marley shelf and prompt- ly started burning copies from his masters. Soon we had three CDs for £2.00 each. These lads, I would guess, seldom come into contact with Europeans who have a wish to be friendly and after a few minutes ascertaining that we actually enjoy their culture couldn’t have been friendlier. Levi store was having a big sale. The staff were delighted with our numerous pur- chases but gently asked why we bought so much. Given a quick run-down of why, they gave us more discount. Thank you, Levi store Antigua. our last sail in the Caribbean was under engine, wind on the nose. We got into Antigua, moored the boat up and chilled out. us for the evening, at locals’ rate, and sent us to a restaurant on the other side of the island. A cafeteria-style eatery under a thatched roof, it was on the edge of the beach and the fish came from their own boats straight to the table, which was proved in the eating. The place was buzzing with locals and I made a conscious resolution to seek out the port captain and congratulate him on his choice. everything, insisting that the Coast Guard attend his office, rather than us waiting on them at the other side of the island, to take full details. The junior of the two officers who turned up was delegated to fill in the form. For “boat value” he asked for a list of our possessions. I explained, “Imagine a three-bedroom house with everything that you would want in it.” But he had only a six-by-eight-inch box to list everything. He settled on putting a value down. obstructive, the staff even wanted to charge US$30 each to phone Virgin Atlantic on our behalf. Thankfully this was a one-off experience on St Kitts, soon remedied by a lovely lunch. tured designer labels, but that was not what we wanted. We asked a bus driver tured designer labels, but that was not what we wanted. he immediately offered us “where do the locals buy clothes?” When he heard why, us to dry land. Helen an island tour and drinks from his bus, for free, to welcome declined his kind offer, and I were uncomfortable with his generosity and carefully which we did. but he insisted that we at least have a drink with him, unwilling to leave until we waved to them to show that we were okay. Then the most unwilling to leave until we waved to them to show that area where enormous Coast Guard vessel turned up, circling the would have been in the dinghy. a delightful, larger-than-life politely told that they were full. But the harbourmaster, He immediately found us a Rasta man, had heard the VHF talk the previous day. free of charge with the place in the marina and helpfully threw open all facilities exception of the berthing fees. do was plant our feet on off in that direction, but The helicopter crew asked where the liferaft was and headed we do not know if they found it. thinking all the time how able, as is someone throwing their home open to you, and it is not an easy thing to able, as is someone throwing their home open to you, are so indebted to them for accept. The last thing you want is to make a mess. We their kindness and compassion. Such silly, emotional thoughts for a piece of fibreglass, stainless steel and alloy. But Such silly, emotional thoughts for a piece of fibreglass, our self-sufficient home, and we had spent so much time working on the boat. It was we had deserted her. she was loaded with memories. We felt somehow that wet gear taken from us, including my seaboots (Lucyna is a brave girl), is uncomfort- (Lucyna is a brave girl), from us, including my seaboots wet gear taken Paul relaxing in the cockpit under sail. ‘We had spent so much time working on the Paul relaxing in the cockpit under sail. ‘We had spent so boat. It was our self-sufficient home’ flare, which went totally in the wrong direction. Then, as if planned, and Helen direction. Then, as if planned, totally in the wrong flare, which went line between the parachute into a direct was, the wind drifted insists that it Dreamcatcher met lumpy sea. We — JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 ceeded onlyinprovokingextreme,side-splitting mirth venue inquestionwasatrueisland,my wordssuc- land byacauseway,andIsaidso.However, sincethe or, attheveryleast,onanislandjoined tothemain- that thewhaleprocessingtookplaceon apeninsula arrange passageacrossforus. he offeredtotakeusamileortwofarther, sohecould islet andthehordesofpeoplegathered thereon when three Bequiawhaleboats.Wecouldalreadyseethe had beenlandedthepreviousdayafteratusslewith nation wasthesmall,offshoreisletwherewhale recently boarded.Thedriverassumedthatourdesti- disembarking passengershauledtheirparcelspastthe in agood-naturedgameofmusicalchairsasrear-seat, one wasnoexceptionas,ateverystop,weallindulged buses crammedwithislandersandloudmusic.This should explainthatthesearealmostinvariablymini- few dayspreviously. unsuccessful expeditionbythesmallsailingwhalersa tional techniques.Friendsofourshadwitnessedan caught annuallyoffBequia,andtheseonlybytradi- international agreements,onlyfourwhalescanbe witness thissingularevent.Wewereawarethat,under “cutting up”)weflaggeddownapassingbustogoand in ourears(“whaletakenyesterday”,“FriendshipBay”, be abletoseetheprocessingofthisrarecatch. Semple Cayontheothersideofisland,wemight been takenthepreviousdayand,werewetotravel punctuated byhisoff-handremarkthatawhalehad model ofourown impressive works—toconsidercommissioningahalf- persuaded bythecheerfulAugustine—andhis established modelboatworkshop.There,wewere and welcomingtown.Anhourlaterfoundusinalong- the severalhundredyardsashoretopicturesque were confidentleavingheraswemotoredthedinghy anchored throughseveralnightsoftypicalgusts,we coastline. Havingfoundourboattobesecurely through thetownofPortElizabethandalong eral daysandwerecontemplatingarelaxingwalk charming islandofBequia,intheGrenadines,forsev- been atanchorincomfortableAdmiraltyBayonthe Bottom right:Speedboatsbringbuyersandsightseers Top right:Waitingforashare Above: SempleCay,justoffshorefromFriendshipBay,buzzeswithactivity For somereason,Ihadbeenunderthe impression For thoseunacquaintedwithCaribbeanbuses,I With snatchesofexcitedlocals’conversationringing April 25thstartedoutasquiteanordinaryday:we’d A WHALEINBEQUIA Indian Summer . Ourgoodbyeswere by RichardClubb some were riding astride the corpse like rodeo cowboys. some wereridingastridethecorpselikerodeo cowboys. back andtheonlyonetobetakenthisseason. of line-handlersashore.Thewhalewasa 55-foot hump- the shoreandrestrainedagainstswell byanumber etal carcassofalargehumpbackwhale, afloat closeto the waterwereclingingontomostlydenuded, skel- ers. Toouramazementwesoonrealizedthat themenin boats, embarkinganddisembarkingyet more sightse- in thewaterandsurroundedbyanumberofjostling more Bequianswereconcentratedinaclusteractually slipway. Therealitywassomewhatdifferent.Ascoreor carcass, perhapspower-winchedontoanancient,broad viewing theorganized,professionalflensingofawhale were liningtheshoreandwefullyexpectedthemtobe ever endured. raising, spine-jolting,gravity-defyingpassageswe’d across themoderateswellinoneofmosthair- overboard, openedthethrottlewideandhared threw hisemptybeerbottle fares, ourstalwartchauffeur unable orunwillingtopaytheir eject afewlocalladswhowere After afifteen-pointturnto festive andemotionalasours. not sureallhelmsmenwereas highly chargedandfestive,I’m though theatmospherewas the Bequiamainland.Even one ofmanyembarkingfrom powerful outboardmotor,was “speedboat”, completewith adventure hadtrulybegun. the eagerto“thewhalecay”.An waiting feverishlytotransport onto oneofmanysmallboats, out ofthebusandwereswept “walking onwater”weclimbed shaking, joshingandpealsof ing, high-fives,“respect”,hand- Bob Marley.Amidstmuchlaugh- ficient volumetoevendrownout amongst allonthebus—ofsuf- Some islanders were merely holding on to the carcass; Some islandersweremerelyholdingonto thecarcass; From adistancewe’dbecomeawarethathundreds The sceneawaitinguswasextraordinary. The small,sturdywooden ieadhared and wide lo h atrsr s fa xlsv-ipd(though explosive-tipped an of use last-resort the allow — experienceoflessthantwohours. der acolourful,memorable—andstrangely disturbing heavy tearsaswereachedshore.Wewere lefttopon- bearing sacksofwhalemeat.Theblackening skyshed few dollars,incompanywithhalfadozen islanders difficulty securingafriendlyrideback to shorefora to oursomber,slightlysinisterfeeling. Wefoundno dark cloudsgatheredoverthechaoticfestivity, adding but distinctstenchofearlyrottingflesh. lowing throughbloodstainedwateramidstthesubtle having feltdisinclinedtoorderwhalesteaksafterwal- refrigeration orsalting.Ican’ttestifytoanyofthis, own blubberoil,canbekeptforuptoayearwithout tastes wonderfuland,whencookedandstoredinits this case.Incidentally,Bequiansclaimthewhalemeat rous tastesoitsuseispreferablyavoided,asitwasin also toldthisimbuesthewhalemeatwithasulphu- ensures aquicker,morehumane,kill.However,Iwas still hand-thrown)harpoon,whichtheoretically allow thelast-resortuseofanexplosive-tipped(though know. InternationalWhalingCommissionregulations though howlongthespottingandpursuittookIdonot than twohoursfromthemomentofharpooning, learned thatthetakingofwhalehadrequiredmore taken thechoicestcutsfromcarcass.Welater hungrily devouredbydivingfrigatebirds.Webecame pink waterscatteredwithfleshremnantsthatwere shared folk-memory. and calvewasseenascauseforcelebrationa of awhaleasitmigratedsouthwardsinApriltomate early 20thcenturies.Smallwonderthatthe“taking” Bedford andNantucketwhalersinthe19th tance asawhalingstationfrequentedbyNew tion pathofthehumpbackwhaleensureditsimpor- and whalingisland.Bequia’sproximitytothemigra- Bequia’s long,richhistoryasamajorboatbuilding considered arareandspecialeventredolentof obliquely, thiswasthecase.Thisharvestmightbe fervour anditwashardnottosuspectthat,atleast ashore, enhancedbythesweetaromaofganja. availability ofalcoholfromtheimpromptupicnicparties sions ofexultationbeyondthoseexplicablebythefree lying prostrateasinsupplication.Allexhibitedexpres- Others appearedtobeembracingtheresidualflesh, Fittingly, theearlysunshinesoondisappeared and Willing handshelpedustowadeashore,through It wasalmostasiftheywereinthegripofreligious yy gy thrown harpoon,hadalready to capturethewhalewithahand- day intheirsmall,opensailboats who’d venturedouttheprevious only hopethatthebravesailors mercial undertones—andIcould a free-for-all—withrealcom- the whalemeat.Thisseemedlike is anislandtraditionofsharing er generation”,eventhoughthere equivalent of“theftbytheyoung- he thoughttheactivitieswere with othersforafewdollars. sonal usewassoonexchanged that wasnotintendedforper- available receptacleandmeat Wives waitedashorewithany the broadestoftriumphantgrins. these islanders’faces,too,bore last remnantsofslurry-likemeat, blubber ashoreaswellthe repute. Haulinggreatslabsof mating theflensingtoolsof though noneofthemapproxi- ing knivesofalldescription, whale andtheshore,brandish- islanders movingbetweenthe aware ofaconstantflow One localonlookertoldusthat JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 , with . In the rocking sea . In the rocking ; she had no motor, he Illusions Mermaid of Carriacou Mermaid of Carriacou next morning we listened to the VHF radio net. we listened to the VHF radio next morning The Debbie picked me up in her dinghy and we managed me up in her dinghy and Debbie picked singlehander John Smith aboard Left: In paintings such as this by the late Mr. Canute Left: In paintings such as this often appears — just Caliste, the figure of a mermaid as a child as she had appeared to him Below: The eponymous A call for assistance came from the mangroves. Just came from the mangroves. A call for assistance grasp the harbor these wonderful trees north of the and builds a that holds them in place sand in a way of the boats and their shelter that had saved so many came from the skip- crew from the storm. The request per of steer and haul up the could not retrieve her anchor, canvas alone. —Continued on next page left after the storm, the Island Packet 29 lurched up storm, the Island Packet 29 left after the to tail, like a bucking horse. and down, head their wires that were now tangled into the seashore were now tangled into their wires that storm. mess left by the her boat, to get on board Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE

CARRIACOU Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 VHF: 16 [email protected] by Arthur Ross

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I arrived the next day, by ferry from Grenada. My The country of Grenada is an unlikely target for hur- Tyrrel Bay on the tiny island of Carriacou is where The founder of the Carriacou Regatta, J. Linton Rigg, TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT ● ● ● ● ● ●

purpose was to crew with an old friend who had unex- pectedly lost her husband the previous year to rum and too little exercise, a cruiser’s curse greater than any hurricane. A local van dropped me off at the village of Harvey Vale on the shore of Tyrrel Bay. There was extensive evidence of Emily’s visit. I picked my way along the road, navigating over telephone poles and ricanes — at least it had been up until 2004 when Ivan struck a direct hit. Carriacou, just north of Grenada, was mostly spared that time. But the following July, Hurricane Emily hit with 90 mph winds causing heavy damage. the story began for me. The following events that the story began for me. The following events that occurred there inspired me to write a biography of Linton, as he was called, as I have cobbled it together from his own words and information from those who knew him. was born in Jamaica in 1896. He was raised on the east coast of the USA, learned to sail on the Delaware River and the Chesapeake Bay, and prospered in yacht bro- kering in New York City after completing an engineering program at Drexel Institute, as it was called at the time. He sailed and played hard in the Gatsby Age, along the way writing cruising guides to the Bahamas and to the Antilles. He was instrumental in starting the National Family Island Regatta in the Bahamas in 1954.

Mr. Rigg and Me and Rigg Mr. The Mermaid, Mermaid, The JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 taries atthe2005regattaanniversaryfête Linton’s nephew,JohnRigg(center)andhiswife,BettyAnne,greetGrenadiandigni- ‘Part ofthefestivitieswasaspecialdinnerpartyatwhathadbeenLinton’shome…’ his wordswereinmyhands. vision ofthemermaidappeared—allin aspanof48hours.Andnow,backhome, friends with boat, ifonlyforafewhundredyardsat thehelm,methisfamily,becomeinstant autobiography ofearlypartsJohnLinton Rigg’slife. pictures thatItookoftheislandevent, andtheygavemeanunpublishedrough ing “onedegreeofseparation”andpromisingtostayintouch. Linton’s youngerbrother.Iwasastonished,andwespenttherestofeveningplay- honored guestoftheevening,alongwithherhusband,JohnRigg—sonBunny, Rigg, fromDoylestown,Pennsylvania,thenexttownwestofmyhome.Shewas the asked ifIwasCaptainArt,andwhensaidthatwas,sheBettyAnne outside totellmyfriendsexcitedlyofexperience. thanked herforsuchanextraordinarytourofLintonRigg’shome,andwentback a guestbookthatsheaskedmetosign.Iwrote“CaptainArtRoss,NewHopePA”, radio caughtmyeye.Iwasenthralled.Aswegotbacktothelivingroomthere was in Linton’sbedroom,justashehadleftit40yearsago.Logbooksandworld-band She offeredmeatourandIgladlyaccepted.Wewentfromroomtoroom,ending up stew. Thehomewasinviting,andIstrolledintothelivingarea;theremetEutha. did thecarpentry.TheboatwasnamedforCanuteCalliste’svision. Regatta. RigghadgoneshareswithMacLaren,buyingthematerialswhileMacLaren MacLaren, daughterofZepharinMacLarenwhobuilt Vincent. HenameditTranquillity.Thecurrentowner,andourhostess,wasEutha boatbuilding townofWindward,facingtheislandsPetiteMartiniqueandPetit St. party atwhathadbeenLinton’shomeonthenortheasternpartofislandin started theBahamasregattayearsbefore.Partoffestivitieswasaspecialdinner Because ofhislovecompetitivesailing,Lintondevelopedthisevent,justashehad the storybegins. need ofahome,boatandpurpose.Theyfoundeachotherheretheend famous painter,musicianandboatbuilder.Riggwasasailorextraordinaire,in Linton arrivedhereinthe1960satpeakofboththeirlives;Canutewasa had avisionofmermaidatthecreekwepassednearopeningtomangroves. and howheLintonwerelinkedby“themermaid”.Asachild,CanuteCalliste come toloveduringmywintervisitsfromPennsylvania. knew thatthiswasnotgoingtobetheusualfewweeksinislandsIhave to “getoffnow”. or boyasIsteeredclearoutofthemangrovesintobayandwastoldbyowner young boyyearsagotodreamaremarkablevision.ButIhadnoideaofthis heavy boat;onlyintheleeofmangroveswouldthisbepossible. out-of-context questions.Wegotunderway,Debbie’slittleinflatablepullingthe come from,whoareyou,anddoyoulikeAmericanpolitics?”allinonebreath. with ananxiousandirritatedowner.“Takethewheel,”hesaid,and,“Wheredidyou yelled thatoneofushadtosteerasheraisedtheanchor. wooden vessel,muchdifferentthanIwasusedto.Wecameastern,andtheskipper we approached return thefavor,especiallyhavingmeaboardasanotherhand,sooffwewent.As — and thatwas—justanothermomentinthestrangedaysweretofollow. tainly adifferentkindofcharacter. Living aboardatraditionalboat,withnothingabouthimself,hewascer- I feltwassteeringbystarsinmotion.In CarriacouIhadsailedonLintonRigg’s We metbackinPennsylvaniaafewweekslaterforcasualdinner.Igavethem Moments laterIwasapproachedbyaladywho,herlooks,notlocal.She I washavingfun,withlocalmusicplayingaswedrankrumandatebarracuda The 40thanniversaryoftheCarriacouRegattawashappeningwhileIthere. I wouldlaterfindoutaboutanothericonofCarriacou,theartistCanuteCalliste, As wecamearoundabend,passedbycreek,thecreekthatonceinspired As Ibecamefamiliarwiththehelm,hewasmakingmedizzyconstantand I jumpeduponthetransomtoseedeckofanoldandbeautifulboat,along Debbie hadreliedonfriendstohelpherduringthestormandshewasanxious Back inthedinghy,DebbieandImadeourwaythroughanchorageto Continued frompreviouspage Mermaid’s Mermaid Mermaid’s builder’sfamily,andhadevenseenthecreek whereCalliste’s Irealizedthatthiswasn’tjustanyboat,butalocallybuilt ownerisJohnSmith,aniconowningiconicboat. Mermaid for thefirstCarriacou Illusions I , a newperspective…’ much tolearnaboutsailing,theislands,people,lifefrom Nice boat,nicefolks—that’swhatcruising’sallabout!‘Thiscruisinglifeoffersso enter thecruisinglife,sotheypurchased sailing intheMediterranean2005gavethisadventurouscoupleconfidenceto made heraperfectcandidatetofollowSteveinthisdream. cessful careersasafinancialplanner(pre-meltdown,ofcourse)andrestaurateur, boat, Steve’simaginationwasfullyengaged. down theMississippiRiver,fromMinnesotatoMobile,in2005onintern’ssail- cruising bugfromayoungmanservinganinternshipwithhim.Bytheendoftrip Together theyarebecomingseasonedcruisers. and Stevesawnoreasontochangeit. originating fromthemusicalHair,wasestablishedbypreviousownerandHope between TrinidadandCarriacou. in theirapproachtothesteeplearningcurve,theyhonedcruisingskills beyond allourpreconceivedexpectations.” a newperspective;wearejustenjoyingclimbing thisverticallearningcurve.Itiswell offers somuchtolearnaboutsailing, theislands,aboutpeople,lifefrom been veryinvolvedinthetutoringproject withtheMt.AiryschoolsinGrenada. about them,hands-onthroughvolunteer workwherepossible.HopeandStevehave American worldview.” and politicallyastute.Theylackthemental myopiacharacteristicoftheNorth some stereotypes,manyislandersareverywell-educated,well-read,well-traveled help there’salwayssomeonetheretohelp.” knit asasmalltown.Noonereallycareswhatyouwereinyourshorelife.Ifneed from widelyvariedgeographiclocations,andyetthecruisingcommunityisastight- by thediversityofinterestingpeoplewe’vemet.Peoplecomefromallwalkslife and strous spacerelativetotheIP37.Theprojectcontinues. reclaimed materials,they’veredoneaboutathousandsquarefeet.Itseemsmon- center andtownhall,intoasingle-familydwelling.Sofar,usingrecycled and mation ofa3,000-square-footformerpubliclibrary,Masoniclodge,community bid wasaccepted.Sincethen,their“hurricaneseasonproject”hasbecometransfor- was forsale.Theyputinabid.InAprilof2008theyweresurprisedtofindthattheir ily inIrwin,Iowa,Augustof2007,HopeandStevefoundthattheIrwintown hall S/V Starshine CRUISER PROFILESBYJOHNROWLAND American SailingAssociationcoursesinSt.Augustine2004andamonthof Hope’s naturalenergy,enthusiasmandsenseofadventure,whichhaddrivensuc- Steve, inhispre-cruisinglife,wasasuccessfulschooladministrator.Hecaughtthe Steve isagourmetchefandbaker.Hopethesystemsexpertnavigator. Hope ended:“SometimesIsitinthecockpit intrueamazementthatthisisourlife!” When askedifcruisingiswhattheyexpected, theyrespond,“Thiscruisinglife Each islandhasitsownuniqueculture. SteveandHopelookforwardtolearning Likewise, HopeandStevefindCaribbeanpeopleveryinteresting.“Contrary to Steve andHopeareenjoyingbeingpartofthecruisingcommunity.“Weamazed In 2008theytookonanambitious“hurricaneseasonproject”.Whilevisitingfam- Hope andSteve on isanIslandPacket37crewedbyHopeandSteve.Theboat’sname, Starshine Starshine inTrinidad2006.Conservative JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 . PORT OF ENTRY This book answers all This book answers all The author, a sailor and Here’s an example: Torque is the reason HAPPY HOUR 5-6 TOURS ARRANGED these questions and more, these questions and more, describing many aspects of sailing ranging from navigation to optical illusions, all of interest to sailors. It will appeal to those just learn- ing to sail and wanting to learn the “why” of how things work on a sailboat. It will also be fun for more experienced sailors who want a better understanding of their boat, the sea and their interactions. physics teacher, surveys a range of common sailing issues and questions and illustrates each one using a question-and-answer for- mat, explaining the relevant physical prinicples and math. Don’t get scared — it’s written in an informal style at about junior college level and, apart from a few gnarly passages that might need special attention, the average sailor will be able to learn a lot without too much brain sweat. wrenches have long handles. MOORING FACILITIES BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS e CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE f th ... , by Scott Welty. Published by Burford Books. © 2007. , by Scott Welty. Published VHF Ch 16 & 68 (range limited by the hills) West Indies. WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, The Why Book of Sailing: The Curious Sailor’s Guide to the Science of Sailor’s Guide to the of Sailing: The Curious The Why Book book’s introduction, “When we sail, we put ourselves As the author notes in this to wonder — why is a modern sailboat able to move Sailors have plenty of time are usually longer than The author goes on to answer questions about why tillers Extracts from Welty’s own logs are used to highlight many real-life instances where When is friction a sailor’s friend and when is it an enemy? Why do halyards slap This book is available at chandleries and bookshops or from www.burfordbooks.com t’s the reason doorknobs aren’t in the middle o Sailing and Seamanship photos and illustrations. Paperback, 180 pages, black-and-white ISBN 978-1-58080-146-1. and our sailboats put us in touch with nature”. in touch with our sailboats, too the fishes and the waterfowl, but physical forces, Nature doesn’t just mean the tug of a taut sheet, the motion of the boat through — the heel of a monohull, air and water. just being blown along with it? Why is there a differ- toward the wind, rather than apparent wind? Steel can’t float, so why are steel boats ence between true wind and boat to go ever faster? If air is clear and water is clear, buoyant? Why can’t I get my sea clearly underwater? Why do I love looking at the why do I need a mask to see When the ice in my drink melts, will the glass over- through polarized sunglasses? flow? And so on. I door but, rather, far from the It’s the reason doorknobs aren’t in the middle of the kid! Simply put (a little more hinges. It’s the reason not to play teeter-totter with the big distance that force is applied complicated later), torque is the product of force times the effect some force is hav- from some pivot. This is how to measure how much twisting either by pushing harder (usu- ing. You can increase the torque applied to something or by making the lever ally doesn’t work), Hitting it with a hammer (never works), examples on a sailboat? longer (atta way, Archimedes!). So where do we find torque Everywhere! long screwdriver is handy for the rudder is wide, why winch handles are long, why a tightening standing rigging, why a mid-boom mainsheet needs extra blocks, why it’s more efficient in heavy weather to use a storm staysail than to roll in most of a roller furling jib, and why weather helm is related to torque (and what you can do about it). a knowledge of physics helped the skipper — or forgetting about it led to embarrass- ment or worse. the mast? What creates waves? This really is a book for the terminally curious. It winds up with a special chapter on conservation and cruising, dealing with freshwater supplies, alternative energy and waste disposal, and bringing the reader back to the concept of sailors getting in tune with their environment. COMMONSENSE COMMONSENSE SCIENCE SAILING , by Jenny Stening. . Caribbean Style Beyond Le Select Beyond Walking the Street the Street Walking A Historic Tour of Gustavia Tour A Historic This book is available at shops in St. Barth, at the Bequia Bookstore in Bequia, and As well as a must-have for anyone who loves St. Barth, this book would be a The walk is outlined on a map on the last page of the book, with every building or The chapters — History, The Swedish Era, Building a Town, French Again, “Jenny Stening is one of these people. As a young, passionate Swedish architect In the book’s foreword, Vice President of the Collective of Saint Barthélemy, Yves The handsome book, written in Swedish and containing translations in English Jenny has a special connection with St. Barth, having set foot on the island for theJenny has a special connection with St. Barth, having Jenny Stening is a young Swedish architect who fell in love with the older build- Jenny Stening is a young Swedish architect who fell For many sailors, Gustavia is St. Barth and the harbor is Gustavia. But get off the For many sailors, Gustavia is St. Barth and the harbor Gustavia, St. Barthélemy: An Architectural Historic Walk Gustavia, St. Barthélemy: from www.swedishdesigncentre.com/index.php/gustavia-the-book.html. superb gift for people with an interest in Caribbean history and architecture. Put it on your bookshelf next to place of architectural, historic or cultural interest numbered. Climate, Traditional Houses, Urban Houses, Context and Gustavia Today — are abundantly illustrated with a fine and well-chosen collection of vintage maps and drawings, and contemporary photos with subjects ranging from panoramic views to portraits of individual buildings to minutely observed architectural detail. she has never, from the day she discovered this unique prior colony of her country, stopped sharing the fruits of her research… The work of Jenny Stening, reflected through the rich and authentic documentation presented, as well as through the author’s keen eye and precise wording, is a precious contribution in extending an accurate and healthy picture of Saint Barthélemy, so revered and yet so fragile. It also summons a respect for times long past and for all that have built this society of which we are heir.” Gréaux, writes, “To search for authenticity and to share it with others — that is a challenge to those truly in love with Saint Barthélemy. For those who not only see this island as a source of profit but, above all, as a place to live alongside the people and their history. and French, begins with an introduction that aims to put the island in wider per- spective and introduce the reader to the small scale yet fascinating town of Gustavia. It contains 120 pages illustrated with plans and designs from archives in Sweden and in Saint Barth, as well as photos of buildings of interest that the author has taken since 1994. first time in 1994 after a transatlantic sailing trip with her family. She has continuedfirst time in 1994 after a transatlantic sailing trip with about Gustavia’s historic gov- to visit ever since and her university thesis was written on a sign-posted walkingernor’s house and town hall. This book, her first, is based and places in Gustavia, atour of historically and architecturally significant buildings The book focuses on the yearstour that she developed in 2004 for the municipality. 1785 through 1878 when the island was under Swedish rule. “It was during this period that Gustavia was built and took on the form it still has today,” she says. ings of Gustavia and the unusual story they tell. Gustavia, founded in 1785, is one ings of Gustavia and the unusual story they tell. Gustavia, urban plan of Gustavia was of the rare colonial towns built by the Swedes. The built structures allowed designed by Dr. Samuel Fahlberg, and the lack of existing place important buildings planners to lay out a strict geometric grid of streets and shops and restaurants and squares in strategic locations. Between the glamorous there are still gems from the past. water, step back a few streets, and you can take a mind-expanding trip in the water, step back a few streets, and you can take a island’s time as well as space. BOOK REVIEW BY SALLY ERDLE BOOK REVIEW Published by Berghede Arkitektur och Design, Sweden. © 2008. 120 pages, full color. och Design, Sweden. © 2008. 120 pages, full color. Published by Berghede Arkitektur Euros. ISBN 978-91-633-2288-4. 45 JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32

YOU CANFIND. MANY DIFFERENTASPECTSOFCARIBBEANHISTORY THERE’S MORETOITTHANPIRATESANDPEARLS!SEEHOW Compass CruisingCrossword ©

Caribbean Compass2009 Word SearchPuzzlebyPaulineDolinski Word SearchPuzzlesolutionon page22 51) Foodinapastrycasing 50) ___-o’-nine-6Across:typeof44Down 49) “Galley______”:sootorashthatendsupinthefood 48) “Givemejusta___more,please.” 47) 44Acrosscanbe_____,brackishorsalty 46) Sweeps 44) H 43) Typeoflodgingfortravelers 41) Kingstown,St.Vincent,iscalled“TheCityof______” 39) Deck____:crew 38) Toand___ 37) Oppositeofstop 36) “Coffee__tea?” 34) Thesegowellwith32Across 32) _____beef:brinedmeatkeptincasks 30) ___Bay:apackagedseasoningforshellfish 29) ___salt:apopulargourmetseasoning 26) Beindebted 24) Onewhobarbecues 23) “Galley______”:unfoundedrumor 19) Vessels canbeused______(fourwords) 17) Anytightlycoveredsaucepan 16) Searchandrescue(initials) 14) Shanghiedsailorssometimesbecamethese 10) Devicesusedtomove44Across 9) Onmostmonohulls,thegalleyis_____decks 6) Fourthwordinnameofaship’s44Down 3) Manyliketheirmainmealto_____(twowords) todaysomeare_____! 1) Ancientgalley14Acrossesweremen; ACROSS 47) Jib,inFrench 45) Typeofparasiticworm 44) Galley14Acrossesweredrivenwiththis 42) “Galley______”:lazyskulker 41) Exclamationofsurprise 40) Vegetarian’srequest(twowords) 38) Passedoffas 35) Whatagalleyslaveused 33) Lengthoverall(initials) 31) Inundated 28) Consume 27) Resultofatmosphericconditions 25) Oppositeofsmooth 22) ____atsea:missingunderway ina25Down29Across 21) Devicetoholdcookatthestove 20) FoodpreparedaccordingtoIslamicdietarylaws 18) Galley14Acrossesweresometimes______15) Drinkslowly 14) Sailors_____theirhammocks’tweendecks 13) “Screw” 12) Chart 11) Employ 8) Potsand____ 7) DistresssignalinMorsecode 6) Oppositeofbottom 5) Inthedirectionof drain 4) Limber_____:spacesinframeswhere44Acrosscan 3) Baby’sdinnertimewear 2) “Galley____:figurehead DOWN ‘GALLEY’ 2 O Crossword Solutiononpage33 JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

d s n t a e l fact-oids IIslands o PPoets

[email protected] Till Papa Parrot, lookin’ up, see where the sun did up, reach, lookin’ Parrot, Papa Till screech, parrot then wit’ an’ heself, check his wing, an’ He flex talk.” a had we squawk, time give a lusty an’ go” time to it “Mama, it’s He say, you, fuh “Sorry say, Mama But flustered, lookin’ said Papa Mama Bird!” time talkin’, “No for he mustered, his strengt’ all an’ go!” go! Let’s “The hour has come! Let’s no denyin’, there’s “Pops, said, and still straight Mama sittin’ But of flyin’.” an awful Ah has developed fear suddenly, has wing,“You said Papa, girl?” LIAT, t’ink you flyin’ “You powers be denounces would t’ing!” do they that bird not that An’ four o’clock, at fly “Who we, did tell Mama answer, and swing and on squawk? branch When we could do we acrobat, soun’. an’ I safe up here, mi exercise all gettin’ “I aroun’? I fly Why mus’ day? each mi branch I leave Why mus’ boastin’, like soun’ that although I could some do tricks, fancy Yes! exhaustin’!” is too flyin’ dear, Parrot Papa frankly, An’ GO! we ‘Go’ say he When And we. everybody chance, stupidy! you soundin’ “Mama, know, this take watchin’ is could he Bois an’ Papa we, That watchin’ is Bois Papa That yuh from yuh branch!” yuh stupidness, and to pelt listen To SPLAT? landin’ mi have an’ Bois me do that? down, Papa Would and mi dead? kill “Jus’ pelt groun’ the to down right me pelt Jus’ die.” to want doesn’t I fly!” up. courage mi let’s get to has I fly, Come on! Let’s gal. it, like more “That’s An Pops say, wings ha’d, real help me I beatin’ now, “Please Mama pray, Oh Gad, Oh Gad, Oh Gad! emp’y space, to out I launchin’ Oh Gad, Oh Gad, Oh Gad, Oh Gad, Oh Gad, Oh Gad, Oh Ga-a-a-a-a-a-a-a-d!” this!) Trinidad,will appreciate (Anyone Bay, who has anchored in Scotland Two parrots playin’ on a branch, high, high on a branch, up a tree, in sun, playin’ the parrots Two in pretty and bright be, as can contented tricks, doin’ Happy as pappy, glistenin’ and green feathers With of fun. lots havin’ an’ on a branch, playin’ parrots Two Hatch Nan — TWO PARROTS TWO

parlumps marooned

14) SLUNG 15) SIP 18) CHAINED 20) HALAL 21) STRAP 22) LOST 25) ROUGH 27) WEATHER 28) EAT 31) DROWNED 33) LOA 35) OAR 38) FOISTED 40) NO MEAT 41) AHA 42) STOKER 44) WHIP 45) TAPE 47) FOC (22 Jun - 23 Jul) LEO (24 Jul - 23 Aug) 41) ARCHES 43) INN 44) WATER 46) OARS 47) FRESH 48) TAD 49) PEPPER 50) CAT 51) PIE DOWN 2) NOSE 3) BIB 4) HOLES 5) TOWARD 6) TOP 7) SOS 8) PANS 11) USE 12) MAP 13) PROPELLOR LIBRA (24 Sep - 23 Oct) PISCES (20 Feb - 20 Mar) ARIES (21 Mar - 20 Apr) VIRGO (24 Aug - 23 Sep) GEMINI (22 May - 21 Jun) TAURUS (21 Apr - 21 May) SCORPIO (24 Oct - 22 Nov) AQUARIUS (21 Jan - 19 Feb) CANCER CAPRICORN (22 Dec - 20 Jan) SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov - 21 Dec) JULY 2009 AS A RICE POT Ship-to-shore communications will be frustrating and This will be a rejuvenating month of calm seas and clear No yelling! Watch how you treat your romantic partner It’s a good time to be a prudent mariner. Steer away Turn down the squelch and relax. Any glitches in com- Minor static may occur in your creative communica- Raindrops on the new varnish? Who cares? Don’t let minor Your business and financial communications will be Stay off the radio and avoid negotiations: arguments This will be a creative month for you, especially in the Other than a short squall of romantic misunderstand- Other than a short squall of romantic Any dark clouds you’ve been dealing with during the Any dark clouds you’ve been could make you short-tempered. Try to think positively and not take the frustration onboard: it could have bad effects on any business dealings. skies with fair winds — enjoy it! and think before you speak. Otherwise the big swells after the storm might last longer than necessary. from taking any exotic new courses, as they will have negative effects on your domestic situation. munication this July will be short lived, so don’t take it all so seriously. tions, but it is only temporary and shouldn’t have any lasting effects. Put a vang on your temper. irritations spoil an otherwise happy month. Concentrate on the positive and let negativity be blown away. smooth sailing. Use this opportunity to address changes that could improve your long-term sailing prospects. and misunderstandings will abound during the first two weeks. Concentrate on your significant other at this time and try not to let shoreside influences get to you. area of communications. Now is the time to seal that marine business deal or finalize an agreement. Do it before the 18th. ings in the middle of the month, this July should be a ings in the middle of the month, seas. glorious broad reach in smooth last month will disperse after the first week. Take much- last month will disperse after needed time off to repair blown-out sails and gather strength to plot a new course. Crossword Solution 19) SHIPS 23) PACKET 24) GRILLER 26) OWE 29) SEA 30) OLD 32) BULLY 34) POTATOES 36) OR 37) GO 38) FRO 39) HAND ACROSS 1) WOMEN 3) BE HOT 6) TAILS 9) BELOW 10) PUMPS 14) SLAVES 16) SAR 17) JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2008 © jutting bits.” quicker inastraightlinefromherethanwalkthatpath,evenleavingoutallthose seemed twiceasfarnowthattheyhadtogoback.“Gee,Ernie,Icanswimback his foot. that theafternoonwasslippingaway,sohegottohisfeetandproddedTrevorwith where theylayintheshadeandchattedaboutmorning.ItwasErniewhonoticed stretch TrevorandErniejumpeddownontothebeachrantoaclumpoftrees and leapedintotheshallowbluepoolsbehindfringingreef.Comingtofinal join thespeedboatswhizzingby.Theycontinuedonaroundeverylittlepromontory try itout,stayingonlylongenoughtolookoutovertheblueseaandwishtheycould sea waves.TrevorandErniefollowedthispathsatonawoodenbenchjustto continuing aroundthegardenbedsandrisingaboverocksgrownmossyfrom jutted outintotheseawithanarrowboardwalkbranchingofffrommainpath, making stupidfacesuntilErniepulledhimaway.Smallman-madepromontories was themirrorglasswallonacafétoonesideandhestoodinfrontofitposing and walkersenjoyingtheperfecttropicalday.ThefirstthingthatcaughtTrevor’seye to awidewoodenfootpathwithconcreteborders,TrevorandErniejoinedthejoggers flopped downuponasmoothrockandatetheirlunch.Then,jumpingupstepon enjoy yourself.” came out. splashing aroundinthecoolwater.PoorErniejuststoodandwaiteduntilTrevor tourists lyingontheirbeachreclinersbakingabrightredinthesun,hewassoon quoise waterhepushedhissandwichintoErnie’shandand,duckingaroundthe their shortstheboysrandowntowhitecoralsand.WhenTrevorsawtur- their T-shirtsandflip-flops.Shovingwrappedsandwichesintothepocketsof of thewalk,theylefttheirbikesundershadealargemahoganytreealongwith tourist-oriented shoreline.Whentheypulledupbehindthebeachnearbeginning see thefirstsectionofboardwalkthathadrecentlybeencompletedalong wild AtlanticcoastofBarbados. and theyleftthelittlewoodencottagejustoverhillfromSweetBottomon when AuntJosefinapackedsandwichesfortheboystotakewiththemontheirbikes adventure thatalmostprovedadisaster.Itwasbright,sunnySundaymorning adventure beyondfootpowersothatishowTrevorledhiscousinErnieintoan his cousinErnieuncool,hehadtoadmitthattheybroadenedthescopefor Trevor reluctantlystoodupandlookedatthedistancetheyhadcome,which “It’s alongwalkback,Trevor.We’dbettergetgoing!” They walkedalongthebeachandjustbeforebeginningofboardwalkthey “Here!” ErnieheldoutTrevor’slunch.“I’mnotgoingtocarryyourlunchwhileyou It wasalongridedowntothesouthernbeachesbutTrevorandErniewanted Although TrevorthoughttheoldbicyclesthatUncleSollyhadboughtforhimand has sixoreighttentacleswhichcontainstingingcells( to comethem.Lastmonthwelookedatthepolyp’sbasicstructure.Eachpolyp coloured pigmentsand,justliketerrestrial plants,theyusetheenergyfromsun- else cantheygettheirfood? the reefsotheycansharetheirfood! the slimymouthofpolypandisdigested. Thepolypsarealljoinedtogetheron lyzing poisonandthestickythreadshold fasttotheplankton.Thefoodslidesinto or adartstickythreads.Thewhipswrap roundtheprey,dartsinjectpara- thing touchesit.Outshootsthedangerous partofthenematocyst,eitherawhip surface ofthetentacle.Thecellhasatriggerwhichisactivatedassoonsome- but theyallworkinasimilarway.Eachnematocystiscoiledinsidecellonthe tiny animalplanktonfromtheseawater.Therearemanykindsofnematocysts exist ontopofthelimestoneskeletalstructure. is madeupoftheskeletonstinyanimalscalledcoralpolyps.Thelivingpolyps Polyps containtinyplantscalled But thereisnotenoughanimalplankton tosatisfyallthecoralpolyps. What dopolypseat? Do yourememberwhatcoralreefsaremadefrom? the Boardwalk The Boys and The DOLLY’S DEEP

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a . Thesecontainyellow-brown y . nematocysts Therockypartofareef CRUISING KIDS’CORNER ) whichtrap Where sents whichletter,thenfindoutthespecialword. ment ifthecoralistosurvive! food. Soit’simportantthattheseawateroverareefremainsstress-freeenviron- white. Thisiscalled example, thezooxanthellaeareexpelledfrompolypsandcoralbecomes colour. Ifthecoralbecomesstressed,iftemperatureofwaterincreasesfor clear watertodepthsofnotmorethan100metres.Zooxanthellaegivecoralits not penetrateveryfardownintotheseawatersotinyplantscanonlylivein both sidesareofbenefittoeachother,isanexample ues! Thiskindofrelationshipbetweenthepolypandzooxanthellae,where and waterwhichthezooxanthellaeuseinphotosynthesis.Andcyclecontin- energy togrow.Thewasteproductsofthepolyp’srespirationarecarbondioxide The coralpolypscanusetheseproductsinrespirationtogivethemenough light toproducecarbohydratesandoxygenthroughtheprocessofphotosynthesis. fell asleep. you saygoes.” ture youcangobyyourself!” they hadcometodrowning. where youwere.Infuturetellmeyou’regoing,understood?” Uncle Sollysaidangrily.“Anythingcouldhavehappenedtoyouandnooneknew walked in. been allday?” table. AuntJosefinastudiedthemforamomentandasked,“Wherehaveyoutwo towel hangingthere,walkedupthebackstepsandfloppeddownatkitchen with excitement.Theboyswashedunderthegardentap,driedthemselvesona the littleponyneighedasoftgreetingandRustydogjumpedaboutbarked to UncleSolly’sfarmyard.ThegoatssneeredathimandErnieasusual,Mildred bikes andpedalhome. the culpritsthenclimbedbackintohisboat,leavingboystowalktheir ashamed theboyshungtheirheads.“Thinkaboutit”.Themanlookedsolemnlyat your parentswhenbodieswerewashedupmilesdownthebeach.”Deeply hadn’t beenthere?“Lookatallthetroubleandheartbreakyouwouldhavecaused thanks. Theboatownertoldthemthatthankswereunnecessary,butwhatifhe ed hisunexpectedcatchthatTrevorandErniehadthebreathtomumbletheir engine. Itwasnotuntiltheirrescuerhaddrivenhisboatintotheshoreandoffload- ing painfullylikeafishoutofwater. grabbed TrevoranddumpedhimlikeabeachedporpoisebesideErnie,wholaygasp- strong brownarmdowntothewaterandyankedErnieupintoboat.Thenhe for oneloneman.Themanidledhissmallspeedboatalongsidethem.Hereacheda would bothdrown. head backtothesurface,butheknewwouldhavepushErnieawayorthey of Trevorandtheybothbegantosink.kickedashardhecouldgethis above thewavesbuthewasgulpingwater.Withafinalgaspforairgrabbedhold to feelpanicbuildinginhischest.JustbehindhimErniestruggledkeephead the reefandouttosea! swept alongbyastrongcurrent,notonlysouthbutawayfromthebeach,beyond began swimmingsouth.Atfirstitwasfunbutthentheyfoundthemselvesbeing Six wordsfromthepassagearewrittenincode.Workoutwhichsymbolrepre- WORD PUZZLE Zooxanthellae canonlydotheirjobwheretheyusesunshine.Sunlightdoes Answersonpage38 THE END Everything willbeallrightinthemorning,Trevoraddedtohimselfashe “Well,onlythelastpartwasstupid,butyouandIarebuddies,Ernie,what Later thatnight,ErniewhisperedtoTrevor,“Nexttimeyouwantastupidadven- “Yes sir,”theboysanswered,thankfulthatUncleSollydidn’tknowjusthowclose “I thoughtbothofyouweresensibleenoughnottogosofarwithouttellingme,” “We wenttoseethenewboardwalk.”Trevortriedsmilebuthewastootired. “You boysareawfullyquiettonight.What’sup?” They wereeatingfriedflyingfishandcou-couinadispiritedwaywhenUncleSolly “Well, thatexplainsit.I’llgiveyouyourdinnerandcangorighttobed.” Ernie mumbled,“Wewenttoseethenewboardwalk”. An angryredsunwassinkingdownbehindthehillswhenTrevoropenedgate The manlookeddownattheboystoseeiftheywereallright,thengunned Speedboats andjetskisflashedpastbutnoonesawthestrugglingboys—except Now, althoughTrevorboastedthathewasthebestswimmerathisschoolbegan Ernie hatedtobecalledachicken.HefollowedTrevoroutintothewaterandthey “Well, youcanwalkbackandI’llwaitforbythebikes,chicken!” “That’s astupididea!”Ernieprotested. coral bleaching and thecoraldieswithoutitsmainsourceof symbiosis . JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

early PM . PM , Burford Books, 2007, reviewed uly? The Why Book of Sailing is J sth Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia, St Vincent anet [email protected] epl TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across TradeWinds six destinations in the Caribbean. are the fastest growing charter company, We all inclusive, 7 days. TERM CHARTERS, operating CREW VACANCIES! eth email: [email protected] or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 +784 457 3407 Tel. St Vincent Tel. ear Where are the planets this July? Saturn, on the other Venus and Mars both rise very early just before sunrise. Wher To ponder while sitting on deck at night with a glass of wine… To ponder while sitting on deck at night with a glass of the speed of light means The vastness of the universe and the relative pokiness Scott Welty is the author of July Moon July 7 - Full Moon July 21 - New Moon ~8:30 July 25 - Waxing Crescent Moon setting along side Saturn We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. prefer We The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be. Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. full training onsite in the Caribbean. offer We This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job. Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please use this email address: We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. for crew, are looking We hand, is generally in the constellation Leo and will be setting around 10:00 hand, is generally in the constellation Leo and will be of between 200 and 400 billion stars (they are very hard to count!) in a double-armed stars (they are very hard to count!) in a double-armed of between 200 and 400 billion one their mutual gravity. It is 100,000 light years from spiral shape held together by that light from one end of the galaxy takes 100,000 side to the other! That means If are located about halfway out one of the spiral arms. years to reach the other. We (or, you are looking right toward the hub of the galaxy you look south in the summer 25,000 years ago!). It looks milky because at the great at least at where it was about of stars involved, our eyes cannot resolve the stars distances and the huge number but just see a smear of light. Our galaxy, of course, is individually but instead we Cozy universe isn’t it? one of billions of other galaxies. that far away things are not where you think they are… Or sometimes not even there that far away things are not where you think they are… here. That means the pretty at all! Light from our sun takes eight minutes to get In an extreme case we sunset you see actually happened eight minutes previous. the lifetime of such a star. can see stars that are farther away in light years than not seeing that YET! Gives That means the star has exploded long ago but we are one pause… on page 31. in the month and around 9:00PM late in the month. Jupiter rises around 9:00PM in the month and around 9:00PM late in the month. In fact if you’re looking at early in the month and later as the month wears on. star to the left is Jupiter. Scorpio and Ptolemy’s Cluster on the 25th, that bright Joe’s Pizza Kiss Energy KNJ Marine Service Ltd. LP Marine Majestic Coatings Marc One Marine Supplies Ltd. Marine Warehouse Mariner’s Office Nau-T-Kol Navtech Peake Trading Chandlery Peake Yacht Services Power Boats Rick’s Dive Shop Sails Restaurant SGI Distributors Ship’s Carpenter/Internet Café Soca Sails Superb Sail & Canvas Sure Power Sweet Water Marina Vespa Restaurant Tropical Marine TTSA TTYC West Coast Fabricators YSATT you can find Deneb as the bright star at any of these locations (this month’s The Sky in July Sky The PM Caribbean Compass ), courtesy of our T&T distributor Boater’s Enterprise: . Readers! When in Chaguaramas, Trinidad, pick up your free PM bold PICK UP! Compass Aikane/Catamaran Village Alle Right Services Alpha Canvas Barrow Sails & Canvas Bay Island Yachts Boaters’ Shop Budget Marine Café Feel Oh Caribbean Marine Electrical Ltd. Caribbean Propellers Ltd. Chaguaramas Metal Works Chute D’eau Marine Coast to Coast Services Coral Cove Marina CrewsInn Marina Customs Office Dockyard Electrics Dynamite Marine Echo Marine Electropics Exclusive Car Rentals Formula III Fortress Woodworking Gittens Engines Goodwood Marine Hi-Lo Supermarket (Chaguaramas) IMS Yacht Services Immigration Office Irena Tours/Members Only Ahoy, monthly copy of the advertisers in Another prominent summer constellation is Scorpio in the south. Like Cygnus, Another prominent summer constellation is Scorpio Looking to the northeast around 9:00 It’s summer! An easy summer observation is the Summer Triangle formed by the It’s summer! An easy summer observation is the Summer Welcome to the launch of The Caribbean Sky: Free Show Nightly! Each month I’ll give Welcome to the launch of The Caribbean Sky: Free ShowW l t th l h f Th C ibb Sk F Sh Ni htl ! E h th I’ll i THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! FREE SHOW SKY: THE CARIBBEAN As long as you’re looking at Scorpio you might as well also notice the whole gosh As long as you’re looking at Scorpio you might as well The night of the 25th would also be a good night to look a little up and to the left The night of the 25th would also be a good night to look Scorpio is one of the rare constellations that actually looks like its name! The tail of Scorpio is one of the rare constellations that actually in the southern sky the scorpion turns up and to the left and is a huge constellation be a good time to see it due visible nearly all night nearly all month. July 25th would south around 9:00 marking the body of Cygnus the swan. Yes, it looks like a long-necked swan. Deneb marking the body of Cygnus the swan. Yes, it looks like about 30 degrees above the will be low in the northeast sky early in the month and you reach the next obvious horizon late in the month. Going straight up from there Lyra. Interestingly bright star, which is Vega, the bright star of the tiny constellation like a top), Vega was the pole due to the precession of the Earth’s axis (it wobbles AD. Better make a note to star around 15,000 BC and will be again around 14,000 and the next bright star is adjust your charts! Now swing your gaze to the right the summer triangle. The Altair, the main star of Aquila. These three, then, form but of course more northerly triangle appears high in the sky in northern latitudes for us down here in the Caribbean. stars Altair, Vega and Deneb. Each star is actually part of a separate constellation stars Altair, Vega and Deneb. Each star is actually part sky make the triangle a but their brightness and relative position in the summer rather obvious shape. an overview and occasional sketch of things to observe in the nighttime sky. Sketches an overview and occasional sketch of things to observe and times will be approximate for Martinique. Enjoy! by Scott Welty darn Milky Way! The big cloudy stripe in the sky running roughly north and south darn Milky Way! The big cloudy stripe in the sky running Our home galaxy is made up is an edge on view of our very own Milky Way galaxy. of the tail of the scorpion for Ptolemy’s Cluster. This loose collection of about 80 stars of the tail of the scorpion for Ptolemy’s Cluster. This loose naked eye and even better (not all visible to the naked eye) is easily seen with The cluster is about 800 light through binoculars — even on a gently rolling deck. second. That means they’ll years away and moving toward us at 14 kilometers per Cluster’s last stand. Duck! be here in about 21,000 years and I guess that will be SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL

Almonds grow almost everywhere throughout the Almond Shark Caribbean. When we go to the beach, I gather a buck- 2 Tablespoons butter or margarine et of the sweet nuts to shell later. 1/2 Cup slivered almonds The almonds growing in the Caribbean, however, are 2 Tablespoons chopped parsley a different species from those you buy in the grocery 2 Tablespoons lemon juice store. Ours are Terminalia catappa, also known as the salt and seasonings to taste Tropical Almond, Indian Almond or Sea Almond. The 1 pound shark, cut into nice-size pieces Tropical Almond is believed to have originated in the In a frying pan, heat butter, then lightly brown the southwestern Pacific. The handsome tree, often seen almonds and remove. Combine parsley, lemon juice, along beaches, grows to 35 metres (110 feet) tall, with and seasonings and rub onto shark pieces. Fry shark. an upright, symmetrical crown and tiers of horizontal As it cooks, spoon the remaining parsley mixture over branches. It has a corky, light fruit that is dispersed the pieces. Do not overcook. Sprinkle the cooked shark by water. The nut within the fruit is edible when fully with the almonds. Serve with rice or pasta. ripe, tasting almost like a “grocery store” almond. The almond grown commercially worldwide is Prunus Coconut and Almond Rice dulcis, native to the Middle East. Primitive man prized 1 ounce almonds Stock Up these tasty nuts as a food staple since they keep well. 2 Cups low fat milk According to anthropologists, early nomads created a 1/4 teaspoon salt on the widest selection and the “trail mix” of ground almonds and chopped dates, 2 Cups uncooked rice rolled with sesame oil into little balls. By 4,000 BC, 1/2 Cup coconut milk best prices in Grenada at our two humans learned to cultivate almonds and they were seasonings to your taste known in nearly every ancient civilization. Several Put almonds in a plastic bag and crush with a conveniently located supermarkets. The Carenage: handfuls of almonds were found in King Tut’s tomb, spoon; set aside. In a medium pot bring milk and salt Monday - Thursday placed there to nourish him on his journey into the to a boil before adding rice. Reduce heat, cover and Whether it’s canned goods, dairy hereafter. cook till rice is done. Add coconut milk, remove cover 8 am to 5:30 pm products, meat, fresh vegetables Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until or fruits, toiletries, household goods, 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 or a fine selection of liquor and wine, Grand Anse: ll The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday bout Hubbard’s until 7:00 pm JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Tel: (473) 444-4573 lmonds

Almonds are sold raw, roasted, or dry-roasted. and simmer for five minutes, being careful not to burn. “Roasted”A almonds are actually deep fried in oil. The Stir in almonds with a fork while fluffing the rice. process adds about ten calories per ounce of nuts, or a little more than a gram of fat. Dry-roasted Hot Crispy Almond Chicken (or Fish) almonds are not cooked in oil and thus better for 1/4 Cup sesame seeds your health, but they may be salted or contain other 1/4 Cup slivered almonds ingredients, such as corn syrup, sugar, starch, MSG 2 Cups cornflakes or preservatives. 1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced When I collect Tropical Almonds, I’ve found that the 2 Tablespoons brown sugar GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS best way to prepare them is to “parch” them, that is, salt and seasonings to taste Rocks don’t move — or if they do they are shown on to toast the shelled, raw nuts in a dry skillet over low 1 Cup milk up-to-date Imray charts. Regarding marine heat, stirring frequently, until golden and fragrant, 2 eggs infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free about five minutes. Remember to remove the almonds 1/2 chicken, cut up and skin removed marine trade guide every year, which is much more immediately from the skillet or they’re likely to scorch. 6 Tablespoons butter or margarine up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist You can also toast almonds in a baking pan in a 350°F In a heated frying pan, toast the sesame seeds and departments put out a free annual guide for bars, oven for seven to ten minutes. Parching or toasting almond slivers. Remove and cool before mixing in a restaurants and hotels. works well with store-bought raw almonds, too. plastic bag with cornflakes, hot pepper, sugar, salt With all these updates readily available, (Slivered and sliced almonds will take a shorter time and seasonings. Close the bag, forcing out all of the

JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 Street’s guides are timeless. than whole nuts.) air. Crush contents with a spoon or rolling pin. In a Almonds are a flavorful addition to any curried dish bowl, stir milk and eggs together to make a wash. and can be mixed with chilled cooked rice and raisins Place crushed cornflake-almond mixture in a flat dish. to make an easy and tasty salad. Sliced almonds make Dip chicken pieces first in the egg wash, and then roll a perfect garnish for an Asian Chicken Salad. To make them in the cornflake mixture. In a large frying pan delicious almond-flavoured “milk” place one Cup heat butter and gently put in the coated chicken, care- freshly toasted almonds with four Cups of water in a ful not to lose any of the coating. Fry each side for five jar. Tightly screw on the lid and refrigerate for one to minutes or less, until it is golden brown and crunchy. two days, but no longer as it might begin to ferment. Pour into a blender and spin until smooth. FOR THE GARDENER Nutritious Almond One-Pot Stir Fry To grow a Tropical Almond tree, first decide if you 1/2 Cup blanched almonds* have enough space for a sizeable tree far away from 3 Tablespoons cooking oil (I prefer canola) your septic tank or swimming pool. An almond tree 2 garlic cloves, chopped needs at least a 20-foot radius. Then look around the 2 Tablespoons minced fresh ginger root beaches for a young tree. Although dry-season decidu- Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor 6 Cups assorted vegetables (green beans or bodi, ous, the Tropical Almond is a great shade tree and is piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, carrots, onions, cabbage, cauliflower, etcetera) extremely adaptable. Because it has a deep root sys- places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that chopped small and thin tem, the almond can withstand severe drought and describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. 2 Tablespoons cornstarch poor soils, but the roots will seek out a constant water 3 Tablespoons soy sauce NEW! Street’s videos, first made in 1985, source — like your water tank, pool, septic system or are now back as DVDs. 1/3 Cup water soak-away. salt and spices to taste To gain the maximum yield from your almond tree, • “Transatlantic with Street” documents a sailing passage 1 teaspoon sesame oil spray every other month with a soluble 20-20-20 fertil- from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours 3 Cups cooked rice (I prefer brown) izer mixed with a light pesticide. Monthly broadcast a • “Antigua Week ’85” is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire In a large skillet, wok or frying pan heat half of the cup of 12-12-17-2 blue fertilizer around the base of racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour oil on medium heat, add almonds and garlic and cook • “Street on Knots” demonstrates the essential knots and the tree. In the dry season water the tree, soaking the line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour for five minutes. Remove almonds and garlic carefully ground, every other week. To limit the height of the • “Streetwise 1 and 2” give tips that appeared in the popular video with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the rest of the tree, cut the center stem at about three years old. This Sailing Quarterly, plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and oil, increase the heat to high, and then add ginger and will make the lower branches grow out, but it should southwest coast of Ireland vegetables. Stir-fry for five minutes and reduce heat to not get any taller. DVDs available at Imray, Kelvin Hughes, Armchair Sailor/ medium. Mix the cornstarch, soy sauce, and water in Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. a bowl and pour over the vegetables. Toss for two min- Full information on DVDs at www.street-iolaire.com utes over medium heat. Mix in seasonings, sesame oil, HURRICANE TIPS! Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of almonds, and rice. information on tracking and securing for a storm. * To blanch almonds, place them in a bowl and pour in boiling water to barely cover. Let sit for ONE minute Street’s Guides and DVDs are available and no longer. Drain, rinse under cold water, pat dry at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, and slip skins off. or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

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Give this type of barbecue a try. I know you will be pleased with the results. Once the chicken is done (temperature of at least 165°F), carefully remove it from A can of your favorite beer is opened and a mouthful or two enjoyed before getting Imagine for a moment the perfect way to roast a whole chicken on the grill without Cooking pieces of chicken on the grill requires a long process of careful turning A recent magazine article had my mouth watering for succulent barbecue-roasted The other day was glorious with little wind, so I fired up the barbecue. Wind is The other day was glorious with little wind, so I fired

I hope you get as fired up about barbecuing as I do. It truly is the one type of about barbecuing as I do. It truly is the one type I hope you get as fired up BEER-BUTT CHICKEN BEER-BUTT the grill. There will still be beer and dripping in the can, and these should be trashed. Drippings in the tray can be turned into a delicious gravy using a small amount of flour, water, salt and pepper. The bird will be juicy and flavorful from the interior beer basting it received during cooking. down to barbecue business. A medium size fowl, about three or four pounds, is best for this method. Season the interior and exterior of the bird, using garlic, herbs, paprika, salt and pepper. Then stand the bird cavity side down onto the partially full can of beer. The can and the bird’s legs are sufficient to support the chicken in a standing position. Place this standing fowl in a small roasting pan on top of a hot grill. Add a small amount of water to the pan to stop dripping fat and juices from burning and close the lid on your grill. Turn the heat down to a medium-to-low temperature and this will be sufficient to produce a golden, succulent chicken that has been basted from the inside out with simmering beer. Make sure the temperature probe is inserted into the breast or thigh, being careful to avoid any bones that will give an improper reading. turning it regularly or fussing over it. A friend visiting from St. Vincent several years ago told me of this superior method that I also recently saw in the cooking magazine I was reading. It is a somewhat disrespectful way to treat a fine bird but the excellent results are worth the shame that may be cast on the cook. while keeping the heat to a medium temperature. Little is worse than ending up with what looks like chicken but tastes like dry cardboard. Overcooked, charcoal-crusted chicken that is still raw in the center is not only bad looking but can also be dangerous to eat. chicken. Furthermore, it had been some while since I last did a stand-alone barbe- cued chicken. My usual preferred method for barbecuing whole fowl or large roasts is using the rotisserie. You will never end up with a dry product when rotating meat on the spit and applying a succulent glaze towards the end of the cooking period. (Don’t glaze beforehand or it will burn.) about the only element that can ruin a good barbecue. The pitch and slop at a poor, about the only element that can ruin a good barbecue. board. On shore, even a heavy windy anchorage can make barbecuing dangerous on Wind, on the other hand, can downpour can do little to quench a good hot gas grill. make your efforts all in vain. cooking that takes you back to the glory days when men were men and women were to the glory days when men were men and women were cooking that takes you back Gathering around a glowing fire with tales of conquest surprised men could cook. the first time you popped a and a cold drink in your hand is as heart stopping as have been in prehistoric chute. I often fantasize about how difficult survival must the cave where the fire was days. The mighty hunter had to fell supper close to haunch of brontosaurus brightly burning. Can you imagine dragging a massive Then being faced with try- several miles to the family anxiously waiting for supper? yes, women always have had ing to rotate the slab of protein over a crude fire? Ah that barbecuing would be a superior intelligence, especially when they decided male’s domain. JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 Special word:PHOTOSYNTHESIS W HIP P LANT P OISN P REY P LANKTO P OLY Tel: 784-458-3656 [email protected] www.seashellsbequia.com heart andsoulofBequia. view thatkeepsyouintouchwith Admiralty Bay, the to popularbeachesandrestaurantswithaspectacular Enjoy ourself-cateringapartmentslocated15mins.walk 48 years,44withLloyds,andmyclaims saw theiradin to tellouradvertisersyou small Properties•authenticexperiences I havebeenintheinsurancebusiness or e-mail:[email protected] Iolaire Enterprises(353)28-33927 ☛ settlement recordcannotbebeat. ANSWERS “I’ll domybesttominimizeyourincrease!” Thereisgoodinsurance,therecheap your insuranceisuntilyouhaveaclaim. Rather, thehonestbrokercanonlysay, No longercanbrokerstalkoflowrates. insurance,butthereisnogoodcheap The insurancebusinesshaschanged. insurance. Youneverknowhowgood DOLLY’S Apartments Holiday Sea Shells www.street-iolaire.com

Then,iftheclaimisdenied Insurance REMEMBER or unsatisfactorilysettled, Fax DMStreet St. Vincent&theGrenadines Marine it istoolate. Compass ! Dear Dear Yacht Iolaire Don Street late. Knowyourbroker;knowunderwriter. the underwritertopayislikepullingteeth, itistoo manager doesnotreallypushyourclaim, orgetting Then, ifyourinsuranceispoorlyworded, ortheclaims how goodyourinsuranceisuntilyoumakeaclaim. but thereisnogoodcheapinsurance.Youneverknow there ischeapinsuranceandgoodinsurance, sailor stopandthink.Itmustberememberedthat axe togrind,butIthinkthesestoriesshouldmakea were notinsuredendedupcollectingnothing. lawyers wantedtoomuchmoneyupfrontandthosewho to hireanAdmiraltylawyersue.Butthe company. Theonlyrecoursefortheuninsuredboatswas writers threatenedtosuethecruiseship’sinsurance insured werepaidfordamagessustained,astheirunder- saying itwasan“ActofGod”.Theboatsthatwere The cruiseship’sinsurancecompanydeniedliability, time shegotclearhaddamagedanumberofyachts. and sternthrusterswerenotpowerfulenough.Bythe 1984, shecouldnotgetalongsidethedockasherbow Charlotte Amalie,St.Thomas,duringHurricaneKlausin Venezuelan courtswouldhavebeenawasteoftime. insured, tryingtosueaVenezuelanferrycompanyin the basisofestimatedrepaircosts.HadInotbeen I wasabletomakeasatisfactorycashsettlementon against theminBritishcourts.Withacopyofthefax settle immediatelyorlegalactionwouldbetaken Lloyds ofLondon,andsaidtotelltheferrycompany ing thattheferrycompanyandshipwereinsuredby of thesituation.Within48hourstheyfaxedbacksay- kers (D.HudigandCo.,aDutchfirm)informingthem They deniedallliability.Icontactedmyinsurancebro- and metwithseniormembersoftheferrycompany. Centro MarinadeOriente,Iwenttotheferryterminal chainplates, andseveredouranchorline. letter intheMarchissueof insurance industry,andthusnoaxetogrind,yethis in May’s 15 feetof ferry, onemileoffitsnormaltrack.Theferrytook we weresideswipedbytheMargaritatoPuertoLaCruz masthead lightonandwenttobed.Halfanhourlater cial trafficcomingtothecommercialdock.Weleft southeast cornerofthebay,wellclearanycommer- Puerto LaCruz,Venezuela,andweanchoredinthe simply departedwithoutpaying. the boatsthatcauseddamagewereuninsuredand would havepaidtheclaiminfull. he wonacourtcasetheoffendingboat’sinsurance repair. Hedidnotevenchargethedeductible,ashad be sodifficultandexpensivethathepaidfor the incident,wereoffdiving),takinglegalactionwould Bequia fishermen,whonormallywouldhavewitnessed two yachtsintheTobagoCaysthatdayand that, sincetherewerenowitnesses(theytheonly the incidenteverhappened. damage wasinsured,theowner-skipperdeniedthat a 65-footketch.Althoughtheboatthatcaused the slotinTobagoCayswhenshewasT-bonedby Sparkman &Stephensketch through nofaultoftheirown,theyweredamaged. tunate thatownershadinsuredtheiryachtswhen, business, Icanoffermoreillustrationsofitbeingfor- quite possible.After45yearsintheyachtinsurance tration ofapotentialdisasterislittlefar-fetched,but necessity foryachtinsuranceisinteresting.Hisillus- FFORUM RREADERS' Being intheinsurancebusiness,Idefinitelyhavean One lastexample.Whenacruiseshipcameinto Once wejury-riggedthemastandweretowedinto Tom Hankinshasnoconnectiontothemarine This isinreferencetotheletterfromGeorge Curtis In myownexperience,in1993 There havebeenmanyothersimilarincidentswhere For example,inthelate1960s,beautiful O Compass Compass E R A Compass Iolaire’s U D , , M E , inwhichhecomplainedabouta bulwarksandthestarboard-side R S '

Compass Saga’s Saga wasatanchorin Iolaire underwriterfelt regardingthe arrivedin Saga’s

in St.Lucia’sSoufriereMarineManagementArea. visiting yacht’sbeingsurroundedbyalocalfishingnet not warrantabigletterin royalty! Myoutlookisthataveryminorproblemdoes that isnotaninternationalincident.Skippersare were inconvenienced;theskipperwasnothappy.But Mr. Curtisnoted,isaverynormalWestIndiantrait. yacht iscommendable.Allthe“shouting”involved,which way isNOTareasonforthemtostop! their workandthefactthatapleasureyachtisin their workwasdone.Theseguysfeedfamiliesby not tohaveaskedtheyachtleaveandreturnafter was completedisstillnotavalidreasonforthefishers quite hardfortheyachttore-anchorafteractivity even enjoytheshow.Thefactthatitwouldhavebeen important taskforthoseinvolvedintheactivity,and from thesea,mostpersonsonyachtsacceptthatisan Commodore oftheOceanCruisingClub. one GeorgeCurtiswhopurportstobeaRear —Continuedonnextpage another fornotprotectingus. to fendoffthesecriminalsatseahave one reasonor with seriousfirearms. are increasing. actually attackedputit,“armchairRambos”. speculating onwhattheywoulddoare,asonecruiser human reactiontoconfrontationwithguns. attacked. Neitherhavetheyexperiencewithguns,nor ing aboutthishavedirectexperiencewithbeing carrying gunsornot. Dear Yacht TropicalDream Chris Long the OCC. read “invitedguestofalegallymooredyachtsman”? doubtfully “legallymooredyachtsman”.Orshouldthat leged towitnessandnotworryabouthisrightsasa visits, trytoenjoytheuniquespectaclehewasprivi- homework onthelifeandeconomiesofplaceshe could hepleaseleaveoutthepatronizingtones,dosome his positionasRCOCC.Beforehedoessonexttime Rear CommodoreOCCinyourMayedition. sneering lettersastheonesubmittedbyGeorgeCurtis ocean cruisers,suchignorant,pompousandfrankly no doubtfortheedificationofusordinaryunranked position ofRearCommodore,mencapablewriting, if thememberscontinueto(presumably)elect, respected institutionastheOceanCruisingClub(UK) Dear St. Vincent Narendra Sethia in thecockpitwithaginandtonichishand. should considerthatwhennextenjoyingaquietevening have norunningwaterandelectricity.PerhapsCurtis sack ofsmallfishprobablyfedseveralpoorfamilieswho but “seemedtobehalfasackofsmallfish”.That the fishermen’scatchwasnotof“biblicalproportions” rudely andsomewhatalarminglydisturbed”that fishermen beproperlyinstructedintheQueen’sEnglish. to theSt.Lucianauthoritiesforthwith,demandingthat accompanied bythebeatingofdrums.Ishallbewriting shouting inalocalpatois—apparently,though,not evocative manner. letter offensiveandcondescendinginacolonially a DanishfishingtrawlerintheSkagerrakMay2004. crew aboardtheGermansubmarinethatwasnettedby should considerthemselvesluckythattheywerenot and amnotsurethatIcare,butbothheCurtis Dear Happy tobehereandhelpful Sign me, area ofexpertiseandoutsidemylocalknowledge! would nothowever,trytochangethingsoutsideofmy son totrygivealittlehelpwhereitisneeded.I after aboutfourdecadeshere,Idohaveabitofrea- different? Ihappentoenjoytheplaceasfoundit!Yes, WHY dowefeelentitledtotryinfluencethembe control activitiescarriedonwithinthearea. ity anditsinhabitants(humanotherwise), are consideredtobethebestwaypreservelocal- That doesnotentitlemetodecidethelocallaws;these guests here.I,likeMr.Curtis,happentobeBritish. Mr. Curtis’sbasicgripewasthatthoseontheyacht Their skillingettingthenetunderandawayfrom When thereisasociallyacceptedwayofgettingfood • CoastGuardorotherresourcessupposedly there • Attacks,moreoftenthannot,include attackers • Attacksoninnocent“momandpop” cruisers Let’s trytosortoutthefacts: Most (notall,astheMayissueshows)ofthesefolks Let’s behonest.Onlyafewofthosewritingandtalk- The debategoeson,yearafteryear,aboutcruisers This letterwillhaveharmedthegoodofficesof No doubthefeelsthatitishisdutytoinform,due I writefearingthedemiseofsuchanaugustand It isshockingthatCurtis’s“quieteveninghadbeen It mustindeedhavebeenterrifyingtohearnatives On amoreseriousnote,IfindthetoneofCurtis’s I havenoideawhohisfriendHenryHughSmithis I refertoaletterintheMayeditionof We sailtoforeignplacesenjoythem.Andthen Yachties HAVEtounderstandthattheyare,afterall, Compass Compass Compass , , , Compass . Compass from JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Parts - Repairs - Service FAX: (473) 444 2899 Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 email: [email protected] TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL McIntyre Bros. Ltd. TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA

attack ) is, of course, ad hominem . The writer makes . The writer makes Compass —Continued on next page Compass , , , Compass Compass Compass While Mr. Sadler (letter, June In tackling this issue I think one needs to narrow issue I think one needs In tackling this organisation that could The OECS is a progressive are not part of the OECS,Although the French islands the OECS, at www. Concerned cruisers can contact Having said that, I think that his I read with interest Julien Simon’s Letter of the interest Julien Simon’s Letter I read with One wonders what contribution Mr. Sadler has As a minor point, the oilrig that requires constant After a wonderful short cruise from Grenada to St. We love Bequia, and who doesn’t? Of course it is On five occasions we had large charter catamarans Extra sadly, we even had this same experience I’m offended by this intrusion and I’m embarrassed Moreover, I would like to challenge the charter compa- some valid points and I am sure most cruisers will and I am sure most some valid points yacht clear- his views on improving empathise with in the Caribbean. ance procedures on a small of approach and concentrate down the area encompass a rather than trying to number of states very different, states that are multitude of Caribbean In this regard, it both culturally and economically. a cruising permit which would make sense to have of Eastern Caribbean covers the OECS (Organisation St. Vincent & the States), which includes Grenada, Antigua & Barbuda, Grenadines, St. Lucia, Dominica, (Anguilla and the St. Kitts & Nevis and Montserrat. British Virgin Islands are associates.) a cruising permit. These be receptive to the idea of yachting revenue, whereas islands value and need the other Caricom countries, it’s a much harder sell to Tobago and Guyana, for which include Trinidad & more heavily on oil and example, countries that rely agricultural exports. clear-in procedure, and thisthey have a relatively simple permit would make forcombined with an OECS cruising Windwards and Leewards.easy cruising throughout the member states’ national oecs.org. Also, the OECS marine trades associations could help lobby their own governments. See a list of these groups at www.carib- beanmarineassociation.com/members/members.htm. Sean Fuller Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Dear perfectly entitled to his opinion of the Caribbean Safety and Security Net, and scary and xenophobic Americans in general, he should have done the courte- ous and gracious thing and simply turned off his radio. The Net is not, after all, required listening and everyone is free to tune in or not as they choose. Month in June’s issue of Month in June’s on the Net’s controller was totally uncalled for and absolutely vile. There was no reason (and no excuse) for anyone to lash out so savagely and personally at someone who had done him no harm or wrong — especially someone who is well respected in the cruising community for the work she has done via the Net and who devotes a great deal of time and personal effort to assisting her fellow cruisers. made, or intends to make to help the community, or is he just another petulant, vacuous voice spewing poi- sonous rhetoric for its own sake. mention on the net lies between Trinidad and Grenada, not Tobago, so perhaps Mr. Sadler can spend the time he saves by not listening to the net reading his charts to sort out the difference. Bill Brady S/V Tempest Dear Lucia and back we have perhaps detected an unset- tling trend. nearly impossible to anchor close to town due to all the mooring balls but that’s actually okay as we like anchoring off Princess Margaret Beach. come into the anchorage while we were there. That’s not uncommon, but most recently these had four to eight couples of college students aboard. You can tell there’s going to be trouble when they come into the anchorage and everyone on deck has a beer in their hand and they are already yelling, “Wooooooooo, wooooooooo…” and so forth. This goes on until they have all passed out, usually somewhat before midnight but not much. (including pretend pirate outfits and plastic swords — and these were 30-year-olds!) in Chatham Bay, Union Island, which is probably our favorite place in the entire Caribbean. The screaming and exaggerated laughing went on until about midnight. Forget about chatting and having a glass of wine on our own boat or doing a little stargazing. Our boat and the others in this usually peaceful anchorage were almost literally being invaded. Best that can be done is to go below and put on my headphones. Not how I usually spend an evening. because, sadly and probably not surprisingly, they are usually my fellow Americans. Is the Caribbean becoming the next Ft. Lauderdale or Cancun — a wild spring- break destination? From the sound of it, most of these parties could be taking place in a hotel room in Cleveland. I mean, a drinking game’s a drinking game, right? What’s the point of coming to the Caribbean? nies (and they all seem to be equally guilty, if they should even bear any of the guilt at all in these pressing times). Dear

Compass suggests we limit our Compass Continued from previous page Continued from I hope some association in the Caribbean steps into I think if more cruisers carried weapons, and the bad As motivation for publications, sailing and commer- It’s too bad the world has turned a less kind and Yes, if we have arms we need some training in their Second, we must urge publications, sailing and The only logical response to the situation is for cruis- It is a disgrace and an outrage we are harassed Certainly we cruisers, traveling on unprotected seas, One article in May’s There are plenty of arguments bandied about in the Incidents reported in the May issue of Incidents reported in the cruising publication, or But no sailing association, Most accounts of incidents strongly suggest that of incidents strongly suggest Most accounts agreements whereby There should be international • Finally, the bottom line is that we either defend our- line is that we either • Finally, the bottom • Attackers now seem often to have the intent to kill, seem often to have the intent • Attackers now leadership on this. If the agreement is not international, at least the Caribbean nations that are most affected by the bad publicity surrounding crime against yachts could enact their own Caribbean-area agreement and facilitate cruisers being able to self- protect. That would be lot cheaper than these poorer nations building up effective coast guards. William P. Gloege S/V Gaia guys realized this, incidents would decline immediately. After a few actual confrontations, incidents could drop even further. These “pirates” are not like the old-time pirates of history. Experience shows that modern-day Caribbean pirates often do not continue an attack when THEY are under fire or threat of fire. cial establishments and others to get involved to push for international agreements for cruisers to carry guns, I urge every business establishment in the Caribbean to think about how ALL of us are affected by the vio- lence. Some are aware, but perhaps not to the depth of how they are affected. For example, I was discussing business with a travel agent at Bahia Redonda marina in Venezuela yesterday. Owing to an incident late last year in the Puerto la Cruz area (a cruiser was shot and killed at Isla Borracha) this agent says there is no longer enough business for ONE agent in that marina, let alone the four trying to survive there. gentle place, but it is a reality. We ignore this reality at gentle place, but it is a reality. We ignore this reality at our increasing peril. I am not willing to sacrifice my cruising life to the few bad guys out there and let them dictate how I will live my life. So, cruisers, it is time to stop just discussing this at cocktail time and, each of us, take some actual action to change and improve our situation regarding piracy. use. We need serious analysis of all incidents to guide use. We need serious analysis of all incidents to guide us in the best defensive measure to take when con- fronting attackers. cruising organizations and our own legislatures to get cruising organizations and our own legislatures to get behind international agreements allowing law-abiding cruisers to arm themselves. ers to carry deterring arms to protect and save their ers to carry deterring arms to protect and save their lives. We must fill this vacuum, since no one else seems to care. about carrying firearms by Customs and other officials about carrying firearms by Customs and other officials in nearly all ports in the Caribbean when they offer us virtually no protection. If we carry arms, they pounce on us innocent, law-abiding cruisers when they detect we have the arrogance to try to protect our lives in their often dangerous waters! often alone, have this right to arms! On the high seas often alone, have this right to arms! On the high seas we have essentially no such forces at our disposal. And that confronts any honest cruiser with the stark fact he/she is ON THEIR OWN OUT THERE. United States for having arms. But in the US we are United States for having arms. But in the US we are inundated with protection agencies such as city police, county police, highway police and lots of armed, private security guards in parks, industrial areas, neighborhoods, etcetera. But still millions of Americans see the right and need for self-protection with firearms. anyone I am aware of has tried to initiate such obvi- anyone I am aware of has agreements. Cruisers are ously needed international that wields sufficient not the kind of community international agreements. political clout to lead to this ball rolling through But we badly need to start means ALL of us cruisers any and many means. That and demanding such writing to our representatives threatening our safety vital agreements in a world and very lives. cruising to “safe” waters. Of course we need to avoid the threatening places as much as possible, but where would he have us cruise in the Caribbean? Where, I please tell me, is this absolutely “safe” place where must confine my cruising? attackers are NOT up to a fight. They expect to take NOT up to a fight. They expect attackers are to themselves with little or no threat what they want protection, cruisers who have zero from unarmed supposed of arms on board or from either by way coasts safe. “Coast Guards” funded to keep to carry weapons for cruisers are legally permitted vast majority of nations defense, especially since the cruisers. cannot provide protection to selves or throw ourselves on the mercy of deadly thugs. ourselves on the mercy of selves or throw other sources suggest that alone, and many (not all) even from a relatively attackers will flee at resistance, harmless flare gun. rather than just rob. rather than just — JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40

and fairplay. may bewithheldfromprintatyourrequest.Letterseditedforlength,clarity plaints. (Kudosareokay!)Wedonotpublishanonymousletters;however,yourname tact you(preferablybye-mail)ifclarificationisrequired. Chaser2 Phil andYvonneChapman good. Therestaurantsareexcellent,too—tryPuertoViejo. depends ontourism;accordinglytheyaremoreconcernedthanmostthatsecurityis the village.Thepeoplehere,likemostVenezuelans,areveryfriendly.village La Cruz,makeastopinMochimaandanchorrightattheheadofbayfront come fromPorlamaryou’llprobablyseemanyoldfriends.IfyouPuerto vellous cavesorchocolatefactory,fartherstilltoAngelFallsevenBrazil?Ifyou to thebeautifulseasidevillageofSanAntonio. can getabusintothetownofCariacoforaboutUS$1,orinoppositedirection main road.MostpeoplegivehimfiveortenBolivaresfortheconvenience.Hereyou is best.Hedoesn’tmindyoutyingup,thencanwalkthroughhisgardentothe dinghy ashore;therearemanyfishermen’sdocks,buttheoneatfareasternend watch thestunningScarletIbisandparrotscomehometoroost.Herealsoyoucan hundred boats. one anchorage,thereisagoodinternationalcommunityandspacetoanchor everything else,withinreason.)Noneedtofeellonelyaroundhere,either.Justin To me,beerdemonstratesthecostoflivinganarea;cheapmeans bar ontheseafrontwithbeerattwoBolivares.(Thesedaysthat’sjust30UScents. if therecomesawesterlyblow.Thevillagehascoupleofsmallshopsandnice great onmarketdays.AtthevillageofGuacarapoisalovelyanchorageespecially amongst thelocalfishingcommunity.OnoppositesideofGulfisMariguitar, Chica hasasmallfishingvillagewhereyouareinrowingdistanceofgoodbar because ofitsdesolatenaturalhillsidesandbaysthatarethreemilesdeep.Laguna on thebeachhere,andwouldn’tbedoingthatifwewereconcernedaboutoursafety. I’m justexpressingmyopinionthatitisnomoredangerous.Wearebuildingasmallhouse ber I’mnotsuggestingVenezuelaisasafercountrythanAntigua,St.LuciaorTrinidad, its politicaladvisers,causeseverybody,meincluded,togetalittleparanoid.Pleaseremem- attacks, butpropagandaaboutVenezuela,generatedinthemostpartbyforeignpressand to anywhereelseintheCaribbean.That’snotsaythattherehaven’tbeenmuggingsor coastline betweenPuertoLaCruzandCumanáisgenerallywithoutincidents,verysimilar won’t bedisappointed. November, whynottakeatripandcomeseeusintheGolfodeCariaco?You Chaguaramas, PorlamarorPuertoLaCruz.Butifyouaregettingboredwaitingfor companies’ “safe”destinationsforthehurricaneseason—maybeGrenada, then tookatrialsailtoCumanáforfewdays.Allwentfine. launching, weanchoredoffandpreparedhersailsassoonthewindpermitted, Medregal Village’shotelatUS$30pernightincludinganexcellentbreakfast.After rate). Ratherthanliveaboardintheheatonhard,westayedafewnights ing chocking,andpowerwashwas800Bolivares(aroundUS$150atthecurrent less, thankstotheworkersatMedregal’shauloutyard.Theandin,includ- to oursoninSpain. Village, Venezuela,andflewbacktotheUKforourfirstgrandchild’sbirthavisit Dear S/V EneeMarie Scott Welty these peoplewouldperformlikethisinfrontofthelocalpopulation. them ashoretoabarthatdoesn’tmindAmericanbuffoonery,althoughIdoubt captain thatdoesn’tjoininthefestivitiesbutmayberemindsthemoftalkortakes and respectforthe“neighborhood”whenyouareinananchorage.Then,let’shavea tained charterandsitthemdowngivealittletalkaboutrespectfortheislands — Rodney Bay,St.Lucia Box 175BQ,Bequia,St.Vincent&theGrenadines Compass PublishingLtd.,Readers’Forum or [email protected] Send yourlettersto: We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaintsorregattaresultscom- Please includeyourname,boatnameorshoresideaddress,andawaywecancon- We wanttohearfromYOU! Dear See moreonourblogathttp://blog.mailasail.com/chaser2. Why notcomeandseeus,anchorinsafetyeventakeatripinlandtothemar- At theeasternendofGulf,anchorincentrechannelwhereyoucan There aremanybeautifulanchoragesintheGulf.LagunaGrandeiswellknown The GulfofCariacoissafeinablow,andcrime-wiseit’sasanywhere.Infact,the By nowmanysailorsareeithersouthboundorhavearrivedattheirinsurance Now wearebackhomeaboard I challengethemtolookateightyoungpeoplewithnosailingexperienceonacap- We hauledourHunter44DeckSaloon, Continued frompreviouspage… Compass Compass , Readers,

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Johnson Hardware Ltd. FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE Fax:(758)4520311 — that localcommunitieswillprotectturtlesandtheirnests. us byprotectingnestingbeachesandnear-shorehabitatsraisingawarenessso the turtlesalone!Letthemdotheirnestingwithoutinterferingwiththem.Join disturbing orpossessingseaturtleeggsisamaximumofEC$5,000,sopleaseleave they mistakeforjellyfish. becoming tangledfishinglinesornets,consumingplasticbagsotherdebris early deathforsome.Theylivealifespanofabout45years,sometimescutshortby adulthood, whilelossofnestinghabitatandillegaleggharvestingarethecause why. Itisreportedworldwidethatonlyoneinathousandleatherbackssurvivesuntil and theireggs.Wehavewarnedthemthatturtleseasonisclosed. sea turtlesevolved110millionyearsago. and weighnearly900kilogramswhenfullygrown.Theyhavebeeninexistencesince ily. Theonlyseaturtlewithoutahardbonyshell,theygrowuptotwometreslong nesting andtheeggsthatareleftbehind.Wemonitoruntiltheyhatch. eggs. Wehaveallpledgedtodoeverythinginourpowerprotecttheseturtleswhile make surethatpeopledon’tmolesttheturtlesduringnestingseason. Environmental Attackersgoonregularpatrolstotheisland’sdifferentbeaches of seaturtleconservationisgrowingrapidlyonUnionIsland,wheretheIsland tion oftheBVISpringRegatta,March29ththroughApril4th,wanttotoo.” “We wantto‘dotherightthing’andknowthatsailorswhojoinusfor2010edi- at waystoreducethepaperusedregistration,”saysRegattaDirectorJudyPetz. officer isalreadyplanningtodistributepresspackselectronicallyandwe’relooking ways thatwecanimproveistominimizetheamountofprintingdo.Ourpress started in2009andlooktofurtheringourconservationefforts.Oneofthemajor pottery shopBamboushay. the regattaawardswere“green”:sculptedpiecesmadefromnaturalclaybylocal Heineken promotedtheseinitiativeswithpostersaroundtheRegattaVillage.Even the glassrecyclingbins.SOLprovidedsailorswithfuel-spillpreventionkitsand “Sailing TowardsCleanandGreen”initiative.NannyCayMarinaResortsetup marina andemptyingofholdingtanksinBVIwaterswasstronglydiscouraged. located inthehotel.Additionally,cleaningofboatbottomsconfines Cay MarinaandResorttoencouragetheuseofbathroomshowerfacilities was alistofnaturalcleaningproductsandwheretofindthemlocally. designed tobereusabletakegearandfromtheboats.Insideskippers’bags BVI TouristBoardprovidedskippers’bagsmadefromrecycledmaterialsand VI. Oncepurchased,Clearwaterprovidedfreefilteredwaterrefills.Inaddition,the 900 bottlessoldwasdonatedtoVISAR(VirginIslandsSearchandRescue)Green Board, weresoldforanominalamountandthemoneyraisedfrommorethan Nanny CayBVISpringRegattaVillage.Thesebottles,sponsoredbytheTourist 2009 wentfurther.Recyclablewaterbottlesweremadeavailabletoeveryoneinthe stewards tohaltthedegradationofoceans.” the worldwouldmakeasimilareffort,wecouldcreateglobalnetworkofocean has takenthisvisiontoheart.Ifeveryregatta,sailingprogram,andyachtclubin of theboatingcommunityinimprovingoceanenvironment.BVISpringRegatta “The visionofCleanRegattasistocreatewidespreadchangethroughtheinvestment Certificate toeverbeawardedanyregatta. Certification Program,awardedthe2009BVISpringRegattafirstSilver tion committedtoprotectingtheoceansthatsponsorsCleanRegattas ing theway.TheseeffortsweresoremarkablethatSailorsandSea,organiza- with JaneBakewell,longtimeBVIresident,writerandconservationenthusiastlead- through April5th,the“SailingTowardsCleanandGreen”campaignwasmounted Regatta beganrecyclingitsglassandplastic.Forthisyear’sevent,heldMarch30th environmental education. informed decision-makingprocessesintheGrenadinesandbecomingaresourcefor will allowforeasyaccesstomarine-resourceinformation,therebyaidingmore For [email protected]. We wanttoremindthepublicthatpenaltyinSt.Vincent&Grenadinesfor We wantourpeopletounderstandhowtakecareofleatherbackturtlesand Unfortunately, therearesomepersonsontheislandwholovetasteofturtles Leatherbacks arethelargestreptileinworldandheaviestturtlefam- During themonthofMay,numerousleatherbackscametoourshoreslaytheir Katrina Collinsofthe Turtles ProtectedonUnionIsland “As welookforwardtonextyear,we’regoingcontinuewithalltheinitiatives The BVITouristBoardandClearwaterwerenottheonlylocalsupportersof The BVISpringRegattaorganizationalsoworkedcloselywitheventhostNanny As in2008,theBVIevent’seffortsincludedrecyclingofglassandplastic,but Chris Mancini,ProgramManagerfortheSailorsSea,explainedaward. The BVISpringRegattahasgonecleanandgreen!Lastyear,the BVI SpringRegattaEarnsFirst‘CleanRegattas’Silver For moreinformationvisithttp://cermes.cavehill.uwi.edu. Ultimately theGrenadineMarSISwillbepubliclyavailableviaGoogleEarthand Continued frompage11… Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners

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Bonanza, Daniell also relocated here, so alto- seen here — were grouped and I was tempted to roll over and go and I was tempted to roll over AM Voyageur C, we’d passed their boat and I had asked if Voyageur C and Bonanza and Letter of of Letter Month the together several hundred yards away. An additional security boat is now available to patrol more of the bay In Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica, robbers targeted a lone In Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica, boat, while five others — including Storey Daniell Storey ; Dave has a cell phone we could borrow and his main VHF radio would , our 40-foot Island Packet, sat calmly in this new anchorage after rolling , our 40-foot Island Packet, I was awake. Faint reggae music was playing on shore, but not loud enough to music was playing on shore, but not loud enough I was awake. Faint reggae Bonanza After firing an orange flare that failed to draw a response, the couple decided to The skipper was standing on deck when we pulled up. He told us that he and his Roy and I managed to launch our dinghy in record time. We gathered up a hand- I realized that we’d seen this boat earlier, and had chatted briefly with the British Oh my! Not good. “We are launching our dinghy and we will come right over,” I I called over, “Are you adrift?” Someone shouted back, “We’ve been robbed. They’ve taken the dinghy, our radio, While I pondered leaving the bed, I heard a different noise mixed in with the music. While I pondered leaving the bed, I heard a different noise wake me up. So, why was I up? It was 1:30 wake me up. So, why was I Dear Compass, back to sleep, but while on board I usually poke my head out the hatch and have a board I usually poke my head out the hatch and have back to sleep, but while on look around. pull up anchor and head for the nearest people. That is how they came to be drop- ping anchor just off our stern at two in the morning. —Continued on next page wife had been attacked, beaten and robbed by two men armed with cutlasses and another one bearing a pistol. The three men swam out from the shore and boarded the boat while the skipper was sleeping below and his wife was in the cockpit. The two men with cutlasses held them down while the third ransacked the boat. They demand- ed money and jewelry. They grabbed all their electronics, cell phones, computers and radios. Then they loaded up the dinghy with the stolen goods and took off. held VHF radio and a million-candlepower searchlight. Then we headed over to Daniell Storey have much more range than our handheld one. He said he’d stand by on Channel 16 as Roy and I headed over to the boat in distress. couple on board. While moving they’d noticed any swell in the night. The skipper said no, he hadn’t, but added that they had just arrived after an overnighter from St. Martin. “Nothing usually bothers us when we are that tired,” he said. I’d wondered why they had decided to drop the hook in that particular spot, close to the Customs dock near the Picard River and somewhat distant from other boats. Maybe they wanted a bit of privacy. Roy and I decided to anchor several hundred yards to the south of them, close to two other sailboats just off the old pier at the Portsmouth Beach Hotel. Our friends on two other cruising boats, gether we were five boats in this area. shouted back. cell phones, everything. Can you help us?” Sounded like a horn — a bit anemic but distinct. I counted the blows: one, two, three, Sounded like a horn — a bit anemic but distinct. I counted call. Coming up into the four, five. Now I was up! Five blasts on a horn are a distress Someone was at the bow and cockpit I spotted a sailboat moving slowly behind us. the horn was sounding again. My sleep-addled brain was slowly registering the situation. The only thing I could imagine was that maybe their anchor broke loose. relentlessly for the two previous nights. Imagine trying to fall asleep while holding on nights. Imagine trying to fall asleep while holding relentlessly for the two previous our swell creeping into the previous anchorage tipped tightly to the bed frame. The in a graduated pattern of increasing intensity. It began monohull from side to side that escalated into a full-blown washing machine experi- with a slow, gentle motion for a few seconds before starting all over again. ence that then subsided completely in moving to another part of Prince Rupert Bay here You get the picture. So, since happy to be sleeping. Dominica, Roy and I were very JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 — visit www.carib1500.com. Caribbean 1500Rallyparticipantshaveexperiencedoverthelast20years. is topresentpracticalinformationderivedfromthe30millionoffshoremilesthat Hampton, Virginia,onSeptember19thand20th. offshore sailors.Fiftysailorsareexpectedtoattendtheupcomingsessionin cal/electrical systems,andoffshoresafetyhavebroughttwo-dayseminarstofuture with specialtiesincommunications,sailhandling,heavyweathersailing,mechani- the CruisingRallyAssociation’sOceanSailingSeminars.For20years,CRAinstructors or [email protected],visitwww.bluewater-sailing.net. tions thatwillenablethemtoworkintheyachtingindustry. keen toencouragelocalstakepartinhiscoursesandworktowardsthequalifica- ing single-handedAtlanticcrossings,ismorethanqualifiedtopassonhisskills.Alex Johnstone, withmorethan120,000milesand26yearsofsailingexperience,includ- Yachting CourserightuptoYachtmasterstandard.InstructorAlex internationally recognizedsailingqualifications,rangingfromatwo-dayStart Caribbean. ThereisalsooneintheBritishVirginIslands. Sailing schoolinGrenada,makingthisonlythesecondRYAtrainingcenter Santiago deCuba,[email protected]. of hurricanes. cal locationbetweenmountainchains,theMarinaisamagnificentshelterincase tours aroundthecountrywhileboatsaresafeatitspiers.Duetogeographi- naval engagementoftheSpanish-AmericanWar.Thefishinghereisgreat,too. that wassunkduringTheBattleofSantiagodeCubaonJuly3,1898—thelargest reefs andthehistoricwrecksoffleetcommandedbySpanishAdmiralCervera where youwillfindoneofthebestCubanseafoodrestaurants. located neartheentranceofbaywithapopulationabout1,200inhabitants, Marina alsoincludesayachtclubandbeachclub. nautical chartstocontinuecruisingtheCubancoastsandCaribbean.The diesel, minorrepairs,provisioningservices,weatherforecasts,andthenecessary nine metres,withwaterandelectricity.Alsoavailableareshowers,shipchandler, page 10. Continued frompage9… In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! For moreinformationonfutureralliesandOceanSailingSeminars, The Seminarisaninteractiveworkshopinaclassroomsetting.speaker’srole If youareplanningonmakinganoffshorepassage,considerattendingoneof CRA OffersOceanSailingSeminars For moreinformationcontactAlexat(473)456-7696 Operating outofTrueBlueBayresort,BluewaterSailingofferscoursesleadingto The UK’sRoyalYachtingAssociation(RYA)haveapprovedtheopeningofaRYA RYA SailingSchoolOpensinGrenada For moreinformationcontactCésarPérezFouces,Director,MarinaInternacional Santiago Marinacanalsoputsailorsincontactwithtravelagenciestoorganize Along thecoastonbothsidesofSantiagoBayisexcellentdiving,withhealthycoral Santiago MarinaofferscrewmembersafreetourofCayoGranma,smallisland A portofentry,theMarinaoffersberthingatsafepierswithdepthsfromfourto Good tohaveyouwithus! Compass wewelcomenewadvertiserGrenadaBoatServices, Business Briefs — decided toheadback could begintheirinvestigation.Itseemedthesituationwaswellinhand.RoyandI With noaccesstotheirownboat,theywerewaitingforaridetheyachtso more questionsthenwenttocollectthePortsmouthPoliceofficersfromdock. bullets ornot,itlookedrealenough.TheCoastGuardtookthegun,askedafew pit. Itlookedlikeapelletgunmasqueradingashandgun.Butwhetheritcouldfire their waytotheclinicinmorning. they wantedtogo.Thatwouldn’tbenecessary,theskippersaid;wouldmake told theBritishcouplethatanambulancewasreadytotakethemhospitalif Guard officerswereveryconcernedandreadytohelp.Oneofficercameonboard had comefromtheirbaseinRoseau,about15milesdownthecoast.ThethreeCoast RIB. Iwasamazed;ithadbeenlessthananhoursincemyphonecallandtheseguys Flashing bluelightslituptheanchorageastheypulledalongsideintheir30-foot the batteredcruisers. training toattendmedicalemergencies.Theyimmediatelyturnedtheirattention he passedinthedinghy.TurnsoutthesetwoaresecondyearEMTstudents— called thepolice.ThestudentshadlingeredonbeachandflaggedRoydownas heard theshoutsforhelp.Theyreportedincidenttocampussecurity,whothen ing attheisland’smedicalschoolhadseenflarefromattackedvesseland what feltlikealongtime.Hereturnedwithcompany.TwoAmericanstudentsstudy- hair. OutcamethescissorsandItookoffasmuchtapelittlehaircould. grotesque necklace.Fourorfivestripsofthestickyplasticclungtohiswife’scurly still clungtothem.Theskipperhadrolledthetapedownfromhismouth,creatinga neck. Heandhiswifehadbeenboundgaggedwithducttapethegreystuff They assuredmethathelpwasontheway. know abouttheincident.Irepeatedthatwewereoutinanchorageonaboat. the rightdirection.Bytimewecalledpolicedispatchtheyalreadyseemedto not hearthecalls.Eddisonpickeduponsecondringandquicklypointedusin anchorage. Unfortunately,thesecuritypatroldoesnothaveaVHFradio,sotheydid The associationsponsorsaprogramthatkeepsupdinghypatrolofthemain guide. RoyandIhadmethimonourwaythroughDominicaafewmonthsearlier. president ofPortsmouthAssociationforYachtSecurity(PAYS)andanIndianRiver Laville’s namelistedinaphonedirectoryfortheLeewardIslands.Eddisonisvice an emergencyorpolicenumberintheguidebook.Luckily,IrecognizedEddison announcement totheanchoragealertfellowcruisersthattherehadbeentrouble. picked upbytheMartiniqueCoastGuardatFortdeFrance.Davemadeageneral the incidentandhewasabletorelaythisinformationasaPANcallthat but obviouslytheCoastGuardhadnot.WegaveDaveparticularsofboatand the anchor,hewasn’tsurewhich. medicine kit.Eitherhehadinjureditinthefightwithrobbersorbypullingup was obvioushisbackhurtandwifelookingforsomepainkillersintheir in sayingnoonewasansweringhisVHFcallandwenttoliedownonthesettee.It little dazedasshesearchedthroughaplasticbinforsomething.Theskippercame across thecabin.Eventrashhadbeenemptiedintomix.Thewifeseemeda had comethroughastorm.Gear,clothes,kitchenwareandpaperswerestrewn could spotthestolendinghy. to seehowhiswifewasdoing.Roywentsearchalongtheshorelineifhe Dominica takecruisers’safetyseriously. secure knowingthatthecommunityandauthoritiesinPortsmouththroughout Caribbean. Eveniftheswellrollsin,we’llsticktopatrolledanchorageand feel boards andthrowingthelockonhatchoncewearereadytogosleep. night, butIcantellyouthatRoyandhavenoproblemputtinginthecompanionway Most cruisersliftandlocktheirdinghyatnight.Veryfewdoor think thatit’stimeforustotakeafewmorebasicsecurityprecautionsonboard. to happenthem.Nobodydoes. sailed theCaribbeanformorethan15yearsandneverexpectedanythinglikethis robbery. Ican’timaginewhatit’slikeforthevictimstotrygetoverit.They’ve The officialsevencamebytothankmeandRoyforhelpingout. investigation oftherobberyhadhighpriorityandwasbeingtakenveryseriously. personally cameouttoseehowthevictimsweredoing.Theyassuredthemthat groups. TheMinisterofTourismandthedirectorDiscoverDominicaAuthority this incidenthasgonebeyondlawenforcementagenciesandlocalcommunity shocked andangry,especiallythoseinvolvedinthetouristindustry.Responseto few yearssinceanythinglikethishadhappenedinDominicaandthepeoplewere pital: theskipperforbackinjuriesandhiswifeapossibleconcussion. cruisers couldgettoandfromtheirboatonceagain.Bothweretreatedatthehos- after theydroppedthepoliceofficersbackonshore.Itwasarelieftoknowthat All eyesgrewwidewithsurprisewhenoneEMTstudentfoundapistolinthecock- A fewminutesafterthestudentsarrived,sodidDominicaCoastGuard. I wasrelievedtohearthesoundofourdinghyapproaching;Royhadbeengonefor As theskippergotupfromsetteeInoticedthathehadsomethingaroundhis Having noluckwiththeradio,itwastimetogetoncellphone.Icouldnotfind Suddenly IheardDave’svoiceontheradio.Hehadskipper’sradiocall, I steppeddownintothemostchaoticsalonhadeverseen.Itlookedlikeboat I handedtheskipperourVHFradiotocallcoastguardandclimbedonboard We’ll alsobebacknextyeartovisitDominica,oneofourfavoriteplacesinthe Yes, Inowfeelmorefearful,butnottothepointwherewantstopsailing.do Now what?Itwasashockingexperiencetowitnesstheaftermathofsuchviolent Everyone wasstunnedatthelevelofviolenceusedinthisrobbery.Ithadbeena The nextmorningweheardthattheCoastGuardhadrecoveredstolendinghy Continued frompreviouspage We’re the Web! on Compass On-Line•Advertisers’Directory Check ItOut…TellYourFriends! Caribbean Compass www.caribbeancompass.com Bonanza . Michelle Fleming Yacht Bonanza JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 grenada • jewelry • jewelry just steps from the carenage Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495 [email protected] [email protected] for your boat, home + friends Nick Williams, Manager Nick Williams, Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 (473) Tel: young street st. george's • rare exotic arts + crafts Engineering, fabrication and welding. Fabrication and repair of Grenada Marine • Spice Island Marine Grenada Marine • Spice TechNick Ltd. TechNick stainless steel and aluminium items. S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada Blue, Grenada S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ELECTRONICS SAILMAKING, • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts tel: (473) 440-2310 [email protected] continued on next page Club is the Dominica Yacht and your center for: Dominica Marine Center www.dominicamarinecenter.com [email protected] home of the Tel: 767-448-2705 Fax: 767-448-7701 Dockmaster Tel: 767-275-2851 VHF: 16 The UNIQUE IN DOMINICA Roseau & Portsmouth Visa / Master Card accepted Down Island Ltd www.islandvillas.com Land and houses for sale For full details see our website: or contact Carolyn Alexander at Alexander or contact Carolyn We also handle Villa Rentals & Rentals also handle Villa We e-mail: [email protected] Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290 Tel: Property Management on Carriacou Management Property CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE • Yacht Mooring Anchorage • Grocery Store & Provisioning • Bakery (Sukie’s Bread Company) • Water at dock • Fuel (Unleaded / Diesel) • Ice • Yacht Chandlery agents - Budget Marine /Sea Choice Products Mercury Marine / Yanmar Marine • LP Gas (propane) refills • Showers & Toilets (WC) • Garbage Disposal • Security • Telephone & Fax • Mobile Phone Rental / SIM Top Up • Laundry WiFi Internet • Beach Bar • Nearby Restaurants • Taxi & Tour Operators • Whale Watching & Sport Fishing • Light Engine and Boat Repair • Customs / Immigration • Clearance Information t n

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Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Trans-Atlantic - rr

Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean K Admiralty Bay, Bequia

L Duty free fuel (+10.000lt) MARINE PLYMA EU-VAT (14%) importation (14%) EU-VAT g aa Bequia, St. Vincent Be www.midatlanticyachtservices.com n A Providing all vital servicesProviding to MID ATLANTIC MID ATLANTIC complete diving, i Hablamos Español

cleats, SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, hoses,

A h C Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000 caribwoods@vinc

Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000 s [email protected] & Shoreline Mini-Market YACHT SERVICES YACHT

i C A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people. TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 +351 TEL +351 292 391616 FAX TEAKTE Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Chandlery, Pilots, RiggingIncl. sockets, navigation, charts, guides, marine hardware, blocks, PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR PORTHOLE RESTAURANT FFishing - Diving - Yacht Equipment

Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! WALLACE & CO WWALLACE Phone: 784 458 3360 [email protected] Electronics, marine electronics, 12 & 24 volts, inverters, lights,

PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES / FAIAL, HORTA PT-9900-144 The ONLY Duty Free Chandlery in BEQUIA FINISHING PRODUCTS P PRODUCTS FINISHING FINISHING

JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 LEMARIN,MARTINIQUE•GRENADA www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] Phone: +(596)596748033Cell:(596)696 276605 Voiles Assistance G G G Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) N R Open MondaytoFriday8-12am2-6pm I I e-mail: [email protected] LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE located atCarenantillesdockyard tel/fax: (596)596748832 # Saturday byappointment O N S Caribbean CompassMarketPlace U Didier andMaria M A B L E S W I N D C A R T E P D F R D N A H C H E P S L I Shipchandler, Artimer Le Marin,Martinique + (599)553-3850/(590)690-222473 Tel: (0)596714161Fax:77 E-mail: [email protected] F L clippers [email protected] A Packages Pick–upcall: G S Int. 001-3057042314 W I N D C A St. St. Maarten/ Martin, collect COURIER SERVICES CIRExpress R T and deliver doorto E P D F continuedonnextpage JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45

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Compliments : Tyrell Bay Yacht Haulout St Lucia, Grenada St Thomas, St Maarten, St www.IslandWaterWorld.com [email protected] Marine Distributors P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299

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WITHOUT IT YOUR MARKET PLACE AD or contact your local island agent [email protected] JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 E-mail [email protected] Tel (246)258-1052/230-3515 US$85,000, OBOBarbados, Gen. Set,MANYextras. 2x671 DetroitDieselEngines 42' POSTSPORTSFISH E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (473)457-4144 Ready togoUS$22,000 Auto/wind pilot,GPS,VHF. Engine 2006SoleMini32 PUMA 321978 US$169,000 ONOLyingStLucia reduced foraspeedysale webs.com/venus46forsale Price more. Fullspecsatwww.free- Solar Panels,WindGenerator& EPIRB, SSB,WaterMaker,Air-Con, GPS, RADAR,VHF,AutoPilot, excellent liveaboardandcruiser. fiberglass, vgc,newengine2007, YOUNG SUN46FTVENUS1984KETCH www.crackajacksailing.net Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD ing.com Tel(758)4528531 E-mail Yachtsales@dsl-yacht- 1981 CT54US195.000 90.000 Euros 1992 Dehler37CWS, 1987 Irwin44US105.000 460.000 Euros 2000 Catana471,4cabin, duty paid US 39.000,St.Lucia 1981 CapeDory30, 2 setsracingsails,US57.000 1975 GermanFrers39ft, 596-696-907429 E-mail [email protected]: DETSR OAIN P# DETSR OAIN P# DETSR OAIN G AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATION PG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER aiba od Bqi MP 45 Carriacou 14 Bequia MP Martinique 41 Carriacou Regatta Guadeloupe Caribbean Woods 41 Trinidad Caribbean PropellersLtd. 8 Caribbean MarineElectrical Martinique12/MP Carene Shop Tortola MP Caraibe Yachts 21 Grenada 24 42 2 SintMaarten Caraibe Greement SintMaarten SintMaarten Camper &Nicholsons BVI YachtSales MP Bequia Budget MarineHelp USA MP Budget Marine MP Grenada Budget Marine Blue WaterSailing 16 Trinidad Bequia Marina Antigua Barrow Sails&Canvas St.Vincent Barefoot YachtCharters 39 B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik 27 MP Art &Design St.Thomas Aquanauts Grenada Martinique American YachtHarbor UK Admiral YachtInsurance A&C YachtBrokers MP BOATS FORSALE Mustsell, . Trinidad MP 29 Petite Martinique details orcall(473)536-2319 apolloduck.net/105408 forfull very wellequipped,seehttp:// MAXIM 38CATAMARAN2001 [email protected] Rodney Bay,StLucia–E-mail more worktodo,US$6000,lying condition, partrestorationbutbit 3GM engine,sailsinreasonable outer hullandfullkeel,Yanmar hogany andoakwithGRP CLASSIC, 37’ ‘SOFIA’ FRENCHBUILTCORNOU US $65,000Tel:(784)5329886 Aluminium FastLoadTrailer. rods andgear.Tripleaxle board storageforfishing well, fishboxes.Ampleon rigging station,45gllivebait gls fuel,head,outriggers tion, 40glsfreshwater,300 in excellentworkingcondi- Twin 250YahamaOutboards GRADY WHITEBIMINI306T-TOP can sendphotos. [email protected] We (868) 634-4346,orE-mail Boats inTrinidadat $5,000US. CallDonatPower engine, reducedto Sloop, 31ft,repainted,no $5,500US. 2.Fiberglass Arpege, 30ft-Reducedto BOATYARD RENT: FOR SALETORECOVER E-Mail [email protected] Tel: (473)457-4144 aboard US$30,000.ONO Fully equipped,greatlive HARRIS 40FTTRIMARAN sailing boat, ma- 1. Dufour sadWtrWrd itMatn MP 48 SintMaarten 25 SintMaarten 10 UK36/38 36 Island WaterWorld 18 Bequia Island WaterWorld Grenada Guadeloupe Grenada Iolaire Enterprises 10 GRPro-Clean Martinique Grenadines Sails Grenada Grenada Marine MP Grenada BoatServices Fred Marine Food Fair Electropics Trinidad MP ol' uds S 25 3 Tortola USA 7 MP Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Grenada 42 Barbados MP Doyle's Guides MP 20 Doyle Sails MP Doyle OffshoreSails Carriacou MP Trinidad Down IslandRealEstate Curaçao USA Dopco Travel Dominica Martinique Dominica MarineCenter Dockyard Electric Curaçao Marine MP Cooper Marine Clippers Ship Carriacou CIRExpress St. Carriacou SilverDiving Maarten MP , www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] [email protected] 8130 (m)E-mail:ballantyne_ Tel: (784)4512453(w),528 for QuickSale) Marina St.Vincent(Priced inspected atOttleyHall ALEXANDRA 1992 44FTIRWINSY 9377/689 3114. $28,000US. Tel:(868)639 beautiful sailingboat! low hours.Newmainsail.A stroke, ultralongshaft,very 3.5ft -6ft.Yamaha9.9hp,4 LOA 40ft,width27ft,draft dition, locatedinTobago. "Natural Mystic",goodcon- BUCCANEER LOCK CROWTHER40’ by, Tel:(784)491-5810 Interested partiescancontact Extras toomanytolist. arranged viewingonrequest. condition fulldetailsand for fishingSVGwaters.Pristine Purpose rebuilt\refit\registered FISHING VESSEL [email protected] (784) 5288130(m)E-mail: Tel: (784)4512453(w) friendshipbayvillas.com/sula View picturesatwww. Island CutSt.Vincent. be inspectedatYoung SULA, 1989 50FTBENETEAU,SY Your ClassiefiedAd@ 5cabins,Yachtcan ADVERTISERS INDEX Yachtcanbe Trimaran, Trinidad 21 CLASSIFIEDS E-mail: bean.com/specials.htm DEALS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL SAILS ANDCANVAS [email protected] Trinidad (868)730-4036E-mail Volvo parts.CallLawrencein condition. Newandused turbo-charger. Goodworking 60hp or20hp;Perkins75hpw/ ENGINES FORSALE e-mail: [email protected]. Trinidad. Cell:868-650-1914or 36HP YANMAROUTBOARDDIESE watercraftwatermaker.com +5999 6607600E-mail:info@ for 150LPH.CuracaoTel: US$3975 complete.Add$800 ranty, 115/230VACdrive CAT SS316pump,fullwar- NEW WATERMAKER [email protected] Tel:+5999 6607600E-mail: Other modelsavailable. US$7970. warranty, NIB.inCuracao 50Hz (9KW@60Hz)Full5year Marine DieselGenset7KW NEW NORTHERNLIGHTS E-mail:[email protected] gas. Tel:+59996673349 ranted, veryquiet,useslittle condition, 3yearsold,war- US$995 inCuracao.Verygood 9.8HP TOHATSU-NISSAN 4-stroke, [email protected] contact RichardPookE-mail: new price$2500.offersinvited! abandoned project.current new, neverinstalled.boughtfor ratio. down-angle.absolutely BARGAIN! MARINE TRANSMISSION e-mail: [email protected] ask fordetails7584528531 upgrade) 4000USo.b.o (has beenchangedfor spreaders, lights,winches deck stepped,boom, Selden Rig St. Thomas Sapphire ResortMarina- www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay views overlookingSouthern and multiacretracts.Great CARRIACOU, ONEACRELOTS [email protected] after 6pm.E-mail owner. Call(784)4560866 Serious buyersonly.Saleby Point, HouseandLand. Bequia PROPERTY FORSALE cnyeBo.Ld rnd 39 19 24 MP 15 Dominican MP Grenada St.Vincent Trinidad Bequia Mid AtlanticYacht 39 Trinidad McIntyre Bros.Ltd Marina Zar-Par 40 St.Croix Marc OneMarine Lulley's Tackle KP Marine St.Lucia KNJ Marine Jones Maritime Johnson Hardware oe' oeMrn Troa 26 MP 17 Trinidad 38 MP Tortola Martinique Caribbean Soper's HoleMarina MP Bequia Ship's Carpenter 47 9 6 Sea ShellsApartments 34 Sea Services Trinidad St.Lucia Curaçao Savon DeMer 13 Aruba Santa BarbaraResorts Rodney BayMarina PSV Renaissance Marina Tortola Power Boats Porthole Bequia 5 Petit St.Vincent Perkins Engines Northern LightsGenerators Tortola MP Navimca Venezuela 22 MISC. FORSALE , short-shaft outboard , short-shaftoutboard athttp://doylecarib- , LowerBay,Bells RENTALS ZF-Hurth 63a, 2.5:1 ZF-Hurth 63a,2.5:1 , Safe-Private- for VINDÖ 35, for VINDÖ35, 80 ltrs/hr 80ltrs/hr Volvo Services L, L,

Azores MP [email protected] Tel: 787-366-3536orEmail: at www.vrbo.com#106617 also Available.Seephotos $1,100.00 month.BoatSlips Term Rates.Starting@ Apartments. Short&Long Studios and1Bedroom Sapphire VillageSt.Thomas Tel: 787-366-3536 E-mail: [email protected] Apartments alsoavailable. $1,200.00 monthly.Adjacent Term Rentals65ftMax. Convenient. Long&Short (473) 443-2665VHF16 Open daily10AM–10PM.Tel ers, ice,laundry&more! restaurant, jetty,WiFi,show- GRENADA ISLAND VIEWatWOBURNBAY, [email protected] 3527/433-3008 E-mail place orderTel(784)457- & flax,buttercrescents.To tigrain, bananabread,herbs every day!Wholewheat,mul- BREADS BEQUIA HOMEMADE garbage properly! www.caribbeancompass.com We areon-line: KEEP THEISLANDS Dispose ofyour BEAUTIFUL… SERVICES & Cakes made fresh & Cakesmadefresh offering sports bar, offeringsportsbar, MP=MarketPlacepages43to45 aauMrn Vnzea 37 Venezuela MP Bequia 31 MP Xanadu Marine WIND Martinique St.Vincent Martinique MP WIND Martinique 11 Wallilabou Anchorage Wallace &Co 29 Grenada Voiles Assistance Grenada Vemasca Venezuela Carriacou MP 23 Tyrrel BayYachtHaulout 35 MP MP Turbulence Sails MP St.Vincent Turbulence Sails Guadeloupe Grenada Turbulence AlternativeEnergy Bequia 37 Trans CaraibesRallies Trade WindsCruising 11 Tikal Arts&Crafts Technick Grenada 41 SVG Air Grenada Superwind Germany St.Thomas St. ThomasYachtSales MP Spice IslandMarine 14

[email protected] (58) 416-3824187E-mail deliveries. TelCrisRobinson trical problemsandyacht INSURANCE SURVEYS, PUERTO LACRUZ,VENZ. [email protected] (784) 457-3600E-mail: Jill foranappointment.Tel Yacht visitsaccepted.Contact JSM BeautySalon,Villaand UNISEX HAIRSERVICE BEQUIA -PROFESSIONAL month. Noreplies. Pre-paid bythe15thof sifieds areUS$10. photos accompanyingclas- bers incount.Linedrawings/ name, addressandnum- US 50¢perword–include Tel: (473)439-2049 [email protected] Grenada. PleaseemailCVto established companyin looking forthestabilityofan cruiser orindependenttech with workpermit.Idealfor refrigeration. Wecanassist ers, windgenerators,ACand trical, electronics,watermak- for marinedieselengines,elec- round experiencedtechnician Co. inGrenadaisseekingall Respected MarineEngineering MARINE TECHNICIANWANTED [email protected]. Tel: (268)464-0845oremail: Suit restaurant,officeorretail. wood oven.ClosetoDockyard. Former pizzarestaurantwith ENGLISH HARBOUR,ANTIGUA. BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY CLASSIFIED ADS WANTED Grenada MP elec- JULY 2009 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 ISLAND GLOBAL YACHTING WWW.IGYMARINAS.COM 1.888.IGY.MARINAS WWW.IGYMARINAS.COM St. Lucia, WI AMERICAS | CARIBBEAN | EUROPE | MIDDLE EAST with long-term storage, all situated in a spectacular, with long-term storage, all situated in a spectacular, Features IGY signature amenities and services including a full- protected lagoon. Marina Village with shopping, dining, ship’s with shopping, dining, ship’s protected lagoon. Marina Village recreation & guest services.chandlery, 248 renovated slips including 32 berths for megayachts up to 76 meters. service boatyard RODNEY BAY MARINA RODNEY BAY enovation AT THE SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN’S MOST CARIBBEAN’S MOST THE SOUTHERN AT DESTINATION SAILING SPECTACULAR and New Megayachtand New Docks Come Experience Rodney Bayʼs Come Experience Rodney Class R World NEWLY RENOVATED!

For information or reservations © 2009 Island Global Yachting Global Island 2009 © 1.758.452.0324 WWW.IGY-RODNEYBAY.COM Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited