An Arc of Contrasts

C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS JANUARY 2014 NO.NO. 220220 The CCaribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

AN ARC OF CONTRASTS

Story on page 12 TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM (2) JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 HEADLIGHTS The Caribbean’s www.budgetmarine.com Leading Chandlery Lenser standstall. torch withoutpeer-aLED lamps. Whenyourequirea out fromthemassofhead make thesemodelsstand fort andextremebrightness friendliness, wearingcom- unique opticalsystem,user- Excellent workmanship,a ARUBA CURAÇAO BONAIRE BONAIRE ST. THOMAS ST. THOMAS ST. CROIX ST. CROIX LDL/8801 TORTOLA NANNY CAY GRENADA GRENADA ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD US$ STARTING AT: ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD ANTIGUA 38.60 ANTIGUA US$ STARTING AT: film exactlywhatyousee.” proof (IPX7*)design.Easily battery, andruggedwater- Chroma™ display,upto3hr action camerawithbuilt-in Meet VIRB,atrueHD1080p ACTION CAMERAS ANTIGUA •ARUBABONAIRECURAÇAOGRENADA •ST. CROIX•ST. MAARTEN•ST. MARTIN•ST. THOMAS•TORTOLATRINIDAD better story? longer? Wouldyoutella A camerathatfilmssmarter, limits ofothercameras? action camerawithoutthe “What iftherewasanHD 357.70 GAR/VIRB mance andextremevalue. great looks,highperfor- from Raymarinecombine The i50andi60Instruments Caribbean DutyFreeListPrices.Checkyourlocalstoreforfinalpricing. tically bullet-proofreliability. Simple installationandprac- integrated installations. either stand-aloneorfully Designed toaccommodate US$ STARTING AT: INSTRUMENTS $374.99 INNOVATION RAY/E70 compact, andyes,smart. smart outboard.Clean,quiet, and batterycondition,itisa range, speedoverground, computer thatcancalculate with anintegratedGPSand is notonlysmartdesign,but outboard electric TorqueedoTravel technology ofthe design andsuperior The revolutionary A smartoutboard?Yes! ELECTRIC OUTBOARDS best outboardtosuityourneeds. outboards, wecanhelpadviseonthe Inquire aboutourfullrangeofTorqueedo US$ STARTING AT: $2077.11 DEPARTMENTS Info & Updates ...... 4 Maritime History ...... 32 Business Briefs ...... 8 The Caribbean Sky ...... 35 Online Weather Sources ...... 22 Cooking with Cruisers ...... 36 Regatta News...... 9 Readers’ Forum ...... 37 … Meridian Passage ...... 32 What’s On My Mind ...... 40 Book Review ...... 34 Monthly Calendar ...... 41 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 30 Caribbean Market Place .....42 Island Poets ...... 30 Classified Ads ...... 46 www.caribbeancompass.com Salty’s Beat ...... 31 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46

JANUARY 2014 • NUMBER 220 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. IFE EEE CHRIS DOYLE WILFRED DEDERER Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 [email protected] Pin This Up! www.caribbeancompass.com Annual Calendar of Events ... 24 Editor...... Sally Erdle [email protected] NATHALIE WARD Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado [email protected] Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71 Mob: + 596 696 74 77 01 [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Panama: Distribution - Shelter Bay Marina Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer www.shelterbaymarina.com [email protected] Puerto Rico: Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Accounting...... Shellese Craigg Olga Diaz de Peréz, Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 [email protected] [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: St. Lucia: Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720-8432 Go Grenadines Tel (268) 720-6868, [email protected] [email protected] Barbados: Distribution - Doyle Sails St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Three cruise itineraries ...... 16 Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Ad Sales & Distribution - Stéphane Legendre Whales’ Tails Colombia: Distribution - Marina Santa Marta Mob: + 590 690 765 422 www.igy-marinasantamarta.com/en [email protected]

Have you seen this? ...... 21 JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Curaçao: Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao St. Vincent & the Grenadines: TOR PINNEY [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg [email protected] Tel: (784) 457-3409 Dominica: Ad Sales & Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830 Fax: (284) 494-1584 Grenada: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Venezuela: Ad Sales - Patty Tomasik Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] [email protected]

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Morne Diablotin Don’t Lose It ©2014 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. A devilish hike in Dominica .. 20 Hoisting your dinghy ...... 29 ISSN 1605 - 1998 The St. Lucia finish line of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers 2013 saw big smiles from both novice cruisers on Khaleesi and experienced racers on Scarlet Oyster. Photographer Tim Wright was there to capture the joy

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.

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Click Google Map link below to ﬁ nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078&spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 territory uptofiveyears,andevenlongerwithamarina’sapproval.Formerly,an all touristmarinas,establishesthatforeignrecreationalvesselsmayremaininCuban Marina HemingwayinHavana.NewCubanrulesallowlong-termstays Gazette oftheRepublicCuba.Articlenumber47decree,whichregulates &Updates Info On November21st,Decreenumber314-2013waspublishedintheOfficial Cuba nowallowsforeignvesselstostayatlocalmarinasforupfiveyears. Cuba RelaxesYachtRules [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands 30 bidallegre voilerie dumarin Martinique New SpiceIslandMarina Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor Chaguramas AMD Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuilding

—Continuedonnextpage their anchorsontothecoral. in theSabaMarineParkitiscrucialthatvisitingyachtsandothervesselsdonotdrop place newmooringblocksaroundSaba.Toprotectthebeautifulanduniquereefs port vessel keys thatformtheCubanarchipelago.” munity andoffersafehappysailingamongthemorethan3,000islands Cuba’s friendlyrelationshipsandcollaborationwiththeinternationalyachtingcom- Club ofCubawelcomesthesenewregulations,whichwillcontinuetoenlarge relating tonauticaltourism. also planstocreateaNationalNauticalCommission,whichwillcoordinatepolicies currently thenation’ssecond-greatesteconomicactivity.Thegovernmentsaidit set anewentryfeeof55CUC(US$55atcurrentexchangerate). number 442–2013,whichregulatesclearanceandcruisingpermitfees to remainoverayearinCuba. import dutyoffivepercentthevalueboathadtobepaidifvesselwas After hostingan“openday”fortheSabapublic,RoyalNetherlandsNavysup- Moorings UpgradedinSaba For moreinformationvisitwww.hemingwayyachtclub.org. Commodore JoséMiguelDíazEscrichsays,“TheHemingwayInternationalYacht These measuresarepartofabroaderinitiativetodiversifytourisminCuba,whichis Also inthesamegazette,CubanMinistryofFinance&PricespostedResolution Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix Zr. Ms.Pelikaan anditscrewhelpedtheSabaConservationFoundation JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 adds, “Walter was born in Carriacou, left was born in Carriacou, left adds, “Walter Sudiki , which always had a pink bottom and intricate , which always had a pink bottom were presented to Mrs. Stevenson, Director of were presented to Mrs. Stevenson, day (except Sundays) and many folks relied on him. He Sundays) and many folks relied day (except Iafrica every Free Spirit 2 “Walter was buried in the village of Campbell on Union Island and seen off by a “Walter was buried in the village School Yachtsman Donates to Carriacou books and magazines donated by Dimitri On December 2nd, educational CCEF Awards Scholarships the Carriacou A fund supported mainly by the visiting yachting community, Chris Walter of the charter yacht Chris Walter of design on top. He leaves a daughter, Mia (11 years old), and his wife, crowd of 200 to 300 people. mother, runs the bar at Union Island airport. He will be Lorna, who, along with her sorely missed.” Stephanos of the yacht Pomeroy by Diane L’Esterre Primary School in Carriacou, and volunteer Leanne The school also received Martino and Richard Laflamme of Lumbadive dive shop. Thanks, Dimitri! two Sony game controllers with nearly 50 game discs. college scholarships. Children’s Education Fund (CCEF), has again awarded —Continued on next page when he was 15 and lived in Trinidad for the next 15 years where he worked on the the next 15 years where he 15 and lived in Trinidad for when he was a fixture in the or Engine and was He was known locally as Machine shrimp boats. out Cays as he came frequently gold front teeth, which he for his gravelly voice and was well known Water of the Southern Grenadines He was an executive member flashed in a smile. for the organizing it. He was also known and was instrumental in Taxi Association paint job on his boat, charter boat crews who visit the Cays often. He was always willing to help, extremely He was always willing to help, who visit the Cays often. charter boat crews Cays will never as friend. Without him the and a great guy to have friendly to our guests be the same.”

WWW.GESTOLLARD.CO.UK in the Tobago Cays The late Walton ‘Walter’ Budd The late Walton ‘Walter’ Budd the yacht delivering fresh baguettes to Pipe Dream Marine Park says, “Walter was a close friend to us and many others, especially S/V Horta Continued from previous page Continued from The Saba Marine Park first dropped mooring blocks in 1987. Those original blocks, blocks in 1987. Those original Park first dropped mooring The Saba Marine visit www.sabapark.org/marine_park/yachting. For more information Remote Testimony SVG to Allow 2nd the against visitors, on December in prosecuting crimes In a major advance Gonsalves noted that the law would be useful in Prime Minister the Hon. Dr. Ralph on a date to be determined by the Governor General. The Act will come into force Eight Bells as Walter, died on November 18th of cancer at age 67. Walton Budd, better known He was one of the oldest waterfront service providers working in the Tobago Cays. HarmHe was one of the oldest waterfront service providers working Brink of which have served very well for decades, were due for an upgrade. The 11 new were due for an upgrade. very well for decades, which have served will be with new chains and shackles four tons each. Heavier blocks blocks weigh various vessels in heavy weather. able to support for testimony to passed a bill that allows St. Vincent & the Grenadines Parliament of many suspects accused of crimes against visitors be given remotely. In the past, or the victims had left the country and were unable escaped prosecution because in court. Under the new law, the Witness (Special unwilling to return to appear or will be able to give evidence via a video link Measures) Bill, victims and witnesses this evidence will have the same weight as testimony other electronic form, and given in person inside the courtroom. against yachting visitors. cases where crimes are committed — JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Trinidad boundforPuertoLaCruzwitha“buddyboat”thatwassoonfarahead. aboard, wasboardedbyarmedrobbersonNovember13th.Theboathadleft Paria, the44-footNorseman CCEF auctiononFridayAugust1st. CCEF fundraisers:thewelcomingbarbecueonWednesday,July30thand instead, seethewebsitebeloworattendafundraiser. schools andCCEF),schoolsuppliesforprimarystudentsinCarriacou. uniforms, backpacks,lunches,computerlabs(a50/50partnershipbetweenthe raised overEC$200,000toprovideTAMCCscholarshipsforsecondarystudents,and August, coincidingwiththeCarriacouRegattaFestival.Duringthistime,CCEFhas ment. Since2000,CCEFhasconductedfundraisingactivitiesduringthefirstweekof the CCEFhasobtainedNon-ProfitOrganizationstatusfromGrenadagovern- the assistanceofNigelD.Stewart&AssociateslocatedinHillsborough,Carriacou, around theworld,andanumberofconcernedlocalbusinessmenwomen.With Kingsman MemorialFund. far, 28studentshavereceivedscholarshipsawardedbytheCCEFandSue essay onthetopic“HowIwillusemyeducationtobuildabetterGrenada”.Thus Certificate examstobeeligibleforscholarshipconsideration.Theyalsowritean towards thepurchaseoftextbooks. The scholarshipscoverfulltuitionandfeesfortwoyears,plusastipendofEC$1,000 All fourstudentsareattendingtheTAMarryshowCommunityCollegeinGrenada. Science) andVanestaMitchell(SocialfromHillsboroughSecondarySchool. and AntoniaJoseph(SocialWork)fromBishopsCollege,Bettina donated bytheSueKingsmanMemorialFund,areMartinJones(BusinessStudies) — In yetanotherassaultaboardayachtsailingoffVenezuela’snotoriousPeninsulaof Oh, No,NotPariaAgain… For moreinformationvisitwww.carriacouchildrenseducationfund.org. This year’sCarriacouRegattadatesareAugust1stthrough3rd.Cometothe2014 Please don’tdonatetoanyoneinadinghypurportingcollectfundsforCCEF; The CCEFisaninformal,voluntarygroupofindividualsfromvisitingyachts Each studenthastodowellinhisorherCaribbeanSecondaryEducation The threeCCEFawardeesfor2013-2014,andtherecipientofafourthscholarship Continued frompreviouspage Explorer , withtwoseptuagenariancircumnavigators Harm Brink Lizzy Conijnand Committee members certificate toCCEF the non-profit Associates presents Nigel D.Stewart& Kindra Materineof let time night-skycolumnist,andsayhellotohissuccessor,JimUlik,whowillcontinue treat. What’sgoingontonight?Ourregularnight-skycolumntellsyou. quiet Caribbeananchorage,awayfromindustrialpollutionandcitylights,isareal orotherorganicchemicalsinanorganism. answers inthecorrectorder: in Salty’sBeatlastmonth’sCompasswasmixedup.Hereisthequizwith not todothiseither.Wearethankfulbealive.” ed fortheirwoundsandareportwasmadetotheCoastGuard. the piratesandtheyleft. expected tobekilled,buttheappearanceofacoastalfreighternearbyfrightened sacked andvirtuallyeverythingofvaluetaken.Theskippersaidthattheyboth drawn revolvers,withonemanremainingtheirboat.” 75-horsepower motorwithfivemenonboard.Theywereusinseconds and MarinaofSt.Vincent,onpage five milesoffshoreat10:30 were attacked.WeabouttenmileswestofthetipPariapeninsulaand Explorer’s In thisissueof The bestthingsinlifearefree,andenjoyingthespectacleofnightskya Our StarGuys 8) echinoderms 7) viscera 6) regenerate 5) scavengers 4) predator 3) eviscerate 2) bioaccumulate 1) bioindicator Answers knownas 8) Seacucumbersaremarineinvertebrates,alsocousinstoseaurchinsandstarfish, 7) Softinternalorgansofthebody. 6) Tore-groworreplacelosttissue. 5) 4) Ananimalthatnaturallypreysonothers 3) Toremovetheentrailsof;disembowel. 2) Referstotheaccumulationofsubstances,suchaspesticides, 1) Aspeciesthatcanbeusedtomonitorthehealthofenvironment. Sea CucumberQuiz As aresultofaneditorialerror,theorderanswerstoSeaCucumberQuiz Department ofCorrections For moreinformationseewww.noonsite.com,PiracyReports2013. The skippersays,“Iwouldneverdothattripagainandadviseanyoneelse The skipperandhismatewereboundpistol-whipped.boatwasran- In thisissueof Welcome Aboard!

Compass Animals thatfeedondeadordecayingmatter. skipperreported,“Wehadn’tevenreachedthefirstwaypointwhenwe readersknoweverymonthwhat’sinthestars…. ______. Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass Explorer AM whenwewereapproachedbyapiroguewith returnedtoTrinidad,wherethecoupleweretreat-

webidafondfarewelltoScottWelty,ourlong- wewelcomenewadvertiserBlueLagoonHotel 17. Goodtohaveyouwithus! . JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 New rates: 1 December 2013 to 31 May 2014 31 May 1 December 2013 to rates: New at 1.5 times the standard Weekly rate. and monthly apply rates please contact a personalised us for quote. Multihulls charged are to yachtsto staying consecutively or 30 7 days respectively. for days For yachtsFor 100 above and bookings feet for LOA, of longer periods, up to 32up to $0.85 $0.77 $0.72 up to 75 to up $1.50 $1.35 $1.28 up to 65 to up $1.45 $1.31 $1.23 up to 50up to $1.20 $1.08 $1.02 up to 40 to up $1.10 $0.99 $0.94 up to 80 to up $1.65 $1.49 $1.40 up to 60 to up $1.30 $1.17 $1.11 up to 100 to up $1.70 $1.53 $1.45 LOA in feetLOA $/ft/day Daily Weekly $/ft/day Monthly $/ft/day making to dedicated are security hour 24 swimming and pool restaurant Bar, Haul-out and technical facilities nearby links air Excellent electricity and Water broadband Free — — sailing: your to spice little a Add this season Grenada Visit – Call 435 Danny 7431 Donelan (473) on +1 [email protected] email or – www.cnmarinas.com/plm – – – – Port Louis Marina a safe, secure provides berth with all the amenities expect a full-service from you’d marina run Camper by & Nicholsons. Our and well-trained knowledgeable staff and relaxing as stay enjoyable your as possible. – – — facilities of world-class combination a rare With and an authentic and unspoilt Caribbean the atmosphere, ‘Spice Island’ of Grenada is fast becoming ‘the’ Caribbean owners. destination yacht for

JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 OYSTER, INGRID ABERY INGRID OYSTER, & theGrenadines. Hotel. Dropbytoviewaselectionofuniqueartsandcrafts,allmadeinSt.Vincent the PortholeRestaurantandLocalColorboutique,ashortwalkfromFrangipani or dieselengineyou’reinterestedin. curymarine.com/engines/engine-tests andclickonthespecificoutboard,sterndrive dreds ofboathousebulletins,head-to-headandthird-partyenginetests.Gotomer- website? Theenginetestsectionofthemercurymarine.comwebsitecontainshun- visit www.igy-rodneybay.com/boatyard. the futureandformanyotherbelovedyachtsinCaribbean. sure tohavesailedwithMurrayandCindy.Welookforwardcaringfor Charles, Murraysaid,“Featheringpropsandcleanbottomsareabeautifulcouple!” formed wonderfully.AfterMurrayandCindycompletedatestsailoutofPortSt. work completedand,inhiswords,“willcontinuetobealoyalIGYcustomer”. outboard craneandbracketwereinstalled.Murraywasverypleasedwithallthe rebuilt, anewstainlesssteelfueltankwasfabricatedbyArcDynamic,and Lorien’s cator werefittedbythelocalRaymarinedealer,RegisElectronics.Inaddition, Raymarine chartplotter,GPS,radar,fishfinderandwindspeeddirectionindi- expert advicewasinstrumentalinthisproject’ssuccessfulcompletion.The drive withfoldingMaxPropsuppliedbyIanCowanofIslandWaterWorld,whose all newRaymarineinstruments.Matchedtotheenginewasastandardshaft the electronicnavigationequipment.Murraydecidedonabrandnew3YM30and the RodneyBayMarinaforhurricaneseason,are-powerprojectandupgradesto with MurrayandCindy,whoshowedimmensehospitalityuponarrivalinBarbados. three (myself,MurrayandCindy).Itwasapleasuretohavecompletedthisdelivery by JohnAlexander. all boatyardstaff, on thehullanddeck.Murrayworkedhardtopreservethatoveryears. cleaned theboatproperly,wewereamazedtoseeconditionofgelcoat up andpoweredthevesseltoIGYRodneyBayBoatyardforrepairs.Whenwe despite apublicservicestrikeatthetime. wharf withtheassistanceofKennethMathurin,anIGY-employedCustomsbroker— in St.Lucia, immersed insixinchesofwaterandsaltwater’sdamagehadbeendone.Onarrival St. Lucia, boat shippedtotheCaribbean. could sailtothemanyharborsonLakeOntario.Theythendecidedhave keep track—itkeepsmesanethatway.” paid CAD$30,000forherandhasinvestedmuchmoresincethen.Hesays,“Idon’t had beenownedbytwodoctorswhousedherasabeer-drinkingplatform.Murray hull withveryrudimentarysailingequipmentandnocruisingset-uptospeakof.She covered inOntario,Canada.BuiltbyC&Cyachts1976,the30-footerwasamoldy Murray Fischerandhiswife,Cindy,haveowned BUSINESS BRIEFS For [email protected](784)497-7670. Bequia’s OasisArtGalleryisnowopenatitsnewsunnylocation,upstairsbehind Bequia’s OasisGalleryRelocates Did youknowthatMercuryhasavastlibraryofenginetestsavailabletoonits Mercury MarineEngineTests For moreinformationonRodneyBayMarinaBoatyard It wasagreatpleasuretohaveworkedonthisprojectandevenmoreofplea- Lorien Following afewmonthsofsailinginBarbados,MurrayandCindyreturned She wasthensailedfromSt.LuciatoPortCharles,Barbadoswithacrewof Under theprojectmanagementofIGY,amonthondrylandandhardwork Having weatheredtheseasaboardafreightshipallwayfromLakeOntarioto While stillinCanada, George Bevan,ShipTechnicianatIGYRodneyBayMarinaBoatyard,reports: A HappyRodneyBayBoatyardCustomer wasdeliveredbacktoBarbados;thenewengineandimprovementsper- keelwasre-beddedandcustomloadplatesinstalled,therudder Lorien Lorien arrivedwithwaterdamagecausedintransit.Hercabinsolewas wasefficientlyclearedthroughCustomsandlaunchedfromthe Lorien Lorien wasreturnedtothewater,freshlyvarnished gotenoughnewequipmentthatMurrayandCindy Lorien’s Lorien AtomicFourgasenginefiredright since2001,whenshewasdis- Lorien Lorien in to JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 . , Craig Hassey, USA Boogaloo , J/24, Dave Tomlinson, USA , Melges 24, Morgan Dale, St. Croix , Teegull 2300, Joe San Martin, St. Croix , Chris and Debbie Schreiber, St. Croix St. Croix International Regatta 2013 class winners were: CSA SPINNAKER Boogaloo CSA NON-SPINNAKER El Shaddai JIB & MAIN Cheeky Monkey MULTIHULL Piglet RHODES 19 Chrys For full results visit www.stcroixyc.com. BVI Team Tops Caribbean Dinghy Championships The Caribbean Sailing Association-sanctioned The St. Barths sailors led the Green Fleet: in first place Tiebreaker Takes the Rum at St. Croix Following the warm-up Commodore’s Race on Caribbean Dinghy Championships were held in Antigua on November 17th and 18th, 2013, hosted jointly by Antigua Yacht Club and Antigua’s National Sailing Academy. Five Caribbean nations participated: Barbados, the British Virgin Islands, Trinidad & Tobago, St. Maarten and Antigua & Barbuda. —Continued on next page place. Rayne Duff from Tortola, age 11, scored a bullet place. Rayne Duff from Tortola, age 11, scored a bullet every race except for one — becoming SOL Optimist Champion this year. In second place was Leonardo Knol from St. Maarten, and third was Luc Mahieu from Curaçao. First girl was Mariangela Fray from Curaçao who ended fifth overall in the White Fleet. was Adrien Elie, second place Mathias Quessada, and third place Didier Pignet. First girl in the Green Fleet was Summer Morton from St. Maarten. November 15th, 26 boats competed in five classes at the St. Croix International Regatta on November 16th and 17th, 2013. The CSA Racing saw a very closely fought competition, with a tiebreaker in the Spinnaker Class and skipper Morgan Dale’s weight in rum going to the Melges 24 The wind came through after The new SR Max programme is For more information visit www.ttsailing.org. 11-Year-Old Tortolan is SOL The 10th annual SOL Sint 30 January to 4 February 2014

providing transport to and from providing transport to and from the training. the first hour to give a nice 15- to 20-knot breeze for most of the day. After the five finals, the instructor team came out with a three-two win over the compet- ing crews. now underway in T&T and will include fleet racing, match racing and a national league for the class. Opti Champ 30 January to 4 February 2014

On the Saturday the winds were consistent and aver- The top ten in the White Fleet sailed closely together, The popularity of match racing is growing in the Caribbean, and Trinidad is now back in the mix Maarten Optimist Championships took place at Simpson Bay, St. Maarten on November 9th and 10th, 2013, organized by the Sint Maarten Yacht Club, with 29 youthful competitors representing five different islands: Tortola, Curaçao, Anguilla, St. Barthelemy and St. Maarten. For the first time, this annual event was held over two days (not one), and was preceded by a three-day clinic with internationally renowned coach Nicolas Fracchia. Sailors were divided into a 20-boat White Fleet (more advanced), and a nine-boat Green Fleet (beginners). age, but winds picked up on the Sunday, promising more challenge. Race Officer Paul Miller and his crew made sure that everything went smoothly. with most of them taking at least a first, second or third

Crédit

nG a !

n enada n

i renda i iGr ! , Philippe Fiston, Guadeloupe , J/24, Cynthia Janne, Guadeloupe , settled for first place in CSA 1. In, settled for first place in CSA

, Nicolas Gillet, Martinique i t t i , SF 3200, Andrzej Kochanski, Martinique , SF 3200, Andrzej Kochanski, , SF 3200, Andrzej Kochanski, Martinique , Class 8, Luc Duponteil, Guadeloupe J Boss

, KL 28, Cédric Santoni, Guadeloupe

, J/111, Eddy Chalono, Martinique

won three races on the last day to take the won three races on the last

Spice it up up it Spice

Sp ce i up NEWS NEWS MELGES 24 GFA Caraibes Last Day Surge Grabs Triskell Cup Last Day Surge Grabs Triskell Cup was held in The 13th edition of the Triskell two days, Polish-bornAfter mixed results on the first MULTIHULL Sanem Triskell Cup 2013 class winners were: Triskell Cup 2013 class winners CSA OVERALL Crédit Mutuel CSA 1 J Boss CSA 2 Crédit Mutuel CLASS 8/SURPRISE Bati + Bagghi CLASS 40 City Sainte-Anne/Uhaima For full results visit: http://triskellcup.com. Match Racing in Trinidad is Back! November 10th, 2013 saw the first match racing The event raised funds for the community-out- COASTAL School Luc Coquelin REGATTA REGATTA Guadeloupe from November 1st through 3rd, 2013, Guadeloupe from November boats from Martinique, attracting 82 entries including as Guadeloupe. Barbados and Trinidad, as well his crew on skipper Andrzej Kochanski and Mutuel Last year’s winner, Eddyoverall title and CSA Class 2. Chalono on islet of Gosier, and facingchanging conditions off the Andrzej said, “Today wea strong CSA fleet of 21 boats, sail the shortest dis- had to race as fast as possible, Conditions weretance and make perfect maneuvers. little chance of winning.”better for us, but we had very event in Trinidad & Tobago in more than ten years. Ten teams competed in this charity event to reach the finals, where they sailed against the TTSA instructor team in a “winner takes all” match. reach sailing programme that delivers free sail training to local school children twice a week as well as JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 The BequiaTourismAssociationpresents: Classes headednorthofPigeonIslandontheirlonger together onashortcourse,whileRacingandCruising off RodneyBay,anincreaseonlastyear’sfleet. 2013 aresoundingsuccess.Atotalof32boatssailed tors andmediawhohelpedmaketheMangoBowl with theresponsefromparticipants,sponsors,specta- organizers attheSt.LuciaYachtClubaredelighted petitive sailingeventenjoyeditssecondyear,and caribbean-dinghy-championships-final-results. Oliver andGregoryAthill. Rayne Duff,SamMorrell,JamesDawson,Matthew total of92.5points.CongratulationstoThadLettsome, Championship teamwasBritishVirginIslandswitha fewest points.Thisyear’sCaribbeanDinghy of St.Maartentookthirdplacewith25points. Barbados finishedsecondwith24points;andFritsBus ing fortheBVI,wonwith23.5points;JasonTindaleof ner beingdecidedbyhalfapoint.GregoryAthill,sail- Amy CoxofBarbadosfinishedthirdwith26points. Jules Mitchelltooksecondplacewith24points,and Radial classwith15points.Antigua&BarbudaII’s 21 points. and MeilingChanChowofTrinidad&Tobagowith with 15points,andinthirdplacewereJoshuaHo were SamMorrellandJamesDawsonoftheBVI Andrews ofAntigua&BarbudaI.Insecondplace seven points,thistimebyRhoneKirbyandRiver a tiebreakerwithCarsonGiffordofSt.Maarten. Antigua &BarbudaIfinishedinthirdwith22pointson second placewith20points,andMariaEldridgeof points. DanielSmitofAntigua&BarbudaIIfinishedin title withallfirstplacefinishesforatotalofseven place wenttoAntigua&BarbudaII’sLouisBavay. to ThadLettsomeoftheBVIwith16points,andthird Rocco Falconewithsevenpoints.Secondplacewent each classoverthecourseofweekend. winds butbetweeneightandtenraceswereheldfor Conditions werechallengingwithlightandvariable — J/24s andtheSurpriseClassfromMartiniqueraced Dee Lundy-Charlesreports:St.Lucia’spremiercom- Second AnnualMangoBowl‘ResoundingSuccess’ For fullresultsvisithttp://caribbean-sailing.com/ The teamtrophywasawardedtothewith The LaserClasswascloselycontested,withthewin- Kelly AnnArrindellofT&TtookthewininLaser The LaserPicoClasswasalsowonwithatotalof In theOptimistClass,RayneDuffofBVItook The Zoom8ClasswaswonbyAntigua&BarbudaI’s Continued frompreviouspage www.bequiatourism.com/bequiamusicfest |www.facebook.com/bequiamusicfest 11 TH [email protected] | Tel: (784)4583286 winning theSouthernCaribbeanJ/24Championship female crewof Digilife winning sevenoutofnineraces,withsecondplace Class. from Martinique’s ta, withBarbados’ Manager FayeMiller. vider’s MarketingOfficerJosetteEdgarandGeneral which werepresentedbythemarineinsurancepro- was theCarriacousloop first placesandthreesecondstotoptheclass. Alexander (25)andRicardoCharmon(28)tookfour Dylan Charles(17),KonstantinTonkopi(14),Ryan (aged 24)andhisyoung thing runningsmoothly. and on-the-waterJudgeTomRinda(USA)keptevery- race route.RacingOfficerJamesBenoit(Grenada) a specialgiftofgolfumbrellastothe pered byDannyDonelan.UnitedInsuranceprovided But itwas Six crewsfromMartiniquebattledintheSurprise The threeRacingClassyachtsfoughtatoughregat- Winner ofthe15-boatCruisingClassafterfiveraces Out ofnineracesintheJ/24Class,FredricSweeney Clippers Ship matching theirlastyearpositionandtheall- Sugar BeachAttitude’s Denebola Fiser CHECK WEBSITE &FORFINALLINE-UP! Whistler Music by theBeach Sunday, -DeReef12.30pm 26January NJ3O+ - TOBY ARMSTRONG -INFINITY COVER DRIVE-SOKAKARTEL Saturday, -DeReef8.30pm 25January by theBeachinFriendship Jam Live Afternoon Bequia BeachHotel12.30pm Saturday, 25January DINO BAPTISTE IAN SIEGAL ZAC HARMON SHEMEKIA COPELAND featuring: Jake Zaitz, EnricoMorena, JamieLittle Matt Gest, Jeff Walker, Mike Paice DANA GILLESPIE&theLondonBluesBand: comes toBequia- MUSTIQUE BLUESFESTIVAL Friday, -DeReef8.30pm 24 January 13-piece EliteSteelOrchestra Thursday, -Frangi 9pm 23January blew awaythecompetitionby DANA GILLESPIE &theLondonBluesBand by onepoint. ALSTON &SURPRISEGUESTS Savvy Sugar BeachAttitude SVG Tourism Authority taking third. just takingthetopspot from Grenada,skip- BECKET weekend.After

Savvy

Grand MountGay Finale: team, CYRUS crew,

—Continuedonnextpage south coast,thereissomethingforeveryone. Grand Ansetomorechallengingconditionsoffthe social life.Fromsmoothwaterandsteadybreezesoff with friendlypeople,naturalbeautyandanactive Grenada? Theislandprovidesaperfect-sizesetting, through February4th. Sailing Week2014willtakeplacefromJanuary30th Hardware, RodneyBaySailsandExodusBoatCharters. Electronics, EndlessSummer&CatsInc,Johnson’s Yamaha, BoardwalkBar,IslandWaterWorld,Regis United Insurance,MountGayRum,Heineken, Bay Marina,BlueWaters,SaintLuciaTouristBoard, club staff,mediamembers,andsponsorsIGYRodney including theraceofficials,committee,volunteers, ported andassistedwithMangoBowlRegatta2013 Blue WatersandMonster. down withdrinksfromMountGayRum,Heineken, was announcedandtheMangoBowlRegattawound Once theprizeswereawarded,asurprisefreebar ed bylocalartistMichelleRibot,aswellotherprizes. ed ceramicMangoBowltrophy,designedandcreat- crew andnicknamed skippered byStephanieDevaux-Lovellandherall-girl also winneroftheinauguralMangoBowlin2012,then General ManagerSimonBryan.Thesameboatwas valued atEC$2,500,whichwaspresentedbyIGY J24/Surprise ClassCombinedSeriesprizeofahaulout place. TheteamalsotooktheIGYRodneyBayMarina teamwork andtacticsthattookthemtooverallfirst the watersoffRodneyBay,whichwasevidentin peted inBarbadosandspentmanyhourstraining in BequiaatEaster,Fredricandhisteamhavecom- What betterplacetokickoffyoursailingseasonthan It’s spicyandspecial!IslandWaterWorldGrenada Grenada SailingWeekStartsThisMonth ON THEHORIZON… Whistler RACING Savvy CRUISING Clippers Ship SURPRISE Sugar BeachAttitude J/24 Mango Bowl2013classwinnerswere: The St.LuciaYachtClubthankseveryonewhosup- Winners inallfourcategoriesreceivedahand-paint- Special Weekender 4-Event Package EC$150 25th:Sunday January DeReef, EC$20advance, EC$25gate 25th:De Reef,Saturday January EC$65advance, EC$75 gate DeReef, 25th:LiveSaturday January EC$65advance, Jam,Afternoon EC$75gate BequiaBeachHotel, EC$10 24th: January Friday NJ3O+ SOKA KARTEL COVER DRIVE TOBY ARMSTRONG , CarriacouSloop,DonnyDonelan,Grenada , J/105,PeterLewis,Barbados , NicholasPoix,Martinique Marius Charlemagne ALSTON CYRUS BECKET TICKET PRICES Blonde Attitude , FredricSweeney,St.Lucia featuring

’ueg des L’Auberge Grenadines MOUNT GAY RUM AIR ADELPHI Publishing Ltd. Basil’s Bar Mustique ADMIRALTY TRANSPORT AGENTS FOR DE REEF EXPRESS Bequia BEQUIA JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 commented Katarina McGhie, Head of

For the first time, The American University of Antigua For more information and on-line entry Sponsors Announced for Antigua Sailing Week for Antigua Sailing Sponsors Announced two official Week has announced Antigua Sailing will Barbuda Ship and Yacht Registry The Antigua & & Barbuda Department of Marine Services and Merchant Shipping is the Maritime Administration of Antigua & Barbuda, operating a maritime registry offering the option to boat owners of registering their boat in Antigua & Barbuda and flying the flag worldwide. “We are very proud of the name that Antigua Sailing Week has internationally, the regatta flies the flag for Antigua & Barbuda and we want to continue to be a part of the event, which showcases Antigua & Barbuda’s yachting industry and our beautiful islands as a wonderful destination for yachts and visitors to our shores,” International Maritime Policy and Business Development. College of Medicine will be an Official Industry Sponsor of Antigua Sailing Week. visit www.sailingweek.com. sponsors for the 47th edition of Antigua Sailing Sailing 47th edition of Antigua sponsors for the 26th to will take place from April Week, which May 2nd. The Antigua an Event Industry Partner. once again be For more information see ad on this age. Antigua Classic NOR Available The Notice of Race for the Antigua Classic Yacht Before the race days, stroll the Concours d’Elegance For more information see ad on this page. SGR’s match races are popular with spectators as well. are popular with spectators SGR’s match races Chairman of the SGR Organizing Jana Caniga, Committee, says, “We believe that giving sailors the opportunity to do some match racing on exciting Rush 10 Catamarans will be a huge draw for participants this year.” Regatta 2014 is now available at http://antiguaclassics. com. This event will take place April 17th through 22nd. and ogle the acres of polished brass and gleaming varnish. As sailor Steve Manley once wrote, “This regatta isn’t just about racing, it is all about aesthetics.” The Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta hosts between 50 and 60 elegant yachts every year and enjoys a wonderful variety of competitors including traditional craft from the islands, classic ketches, sloops, schooners, and yawls. SGR by registering a team in the Match Races. SGR by registering Court set in the middle of Clarkes With a race course the com- can cheer everyone on from Bay, spectators made easily floating bar, which is fort of SGR’s start-line service.a complimentary water shuttle accessible by VC7U )`VJ:R:Q:`RQ`Q%`1I 2014 REGATTa %R$V :`1JVR1`VI:J#Q%V%&'CVH `1H :VR: V .:`VCV%:`1J:5:C101$J7:7 SOUTH GRENADA SOUTH GRENADA WWW.SOUTHGRENADAREGATTA.COM Continued from previous page Continued from Register online today and make sure you have Register online today and make on page 9. For more information see ad Cats for South Grenada Regatta’s Match Races The South Grenada Regatta Committee has The South Grenada Regatta takes place from March SGR introduced match racing as their Lay Day activity Variety is the spice of life and Grenada Sailing Week of life and Grenada Sailing Variety is the spice Prickly Bay Marina — each with its own ambience and Prickly Bay Marina — each too, can be part of the after-race entertainment. You, into a Caribbean passion that is building this regatta racers, and proudly event sought after by international marine industry players. supported by local sailors and dock. booked your space on the announced an exciting revision to the schedule of events for the sixth annual South Grenada Regatta (SGR): instead of mid-sized monohulls, this year’s Lay Day Match Races will be on fast and exhilarating ten- metre (33-foot) Rush 10 catamarans. 5th through 9th, with Rush 10 Match Racing on Saturday, March 8th. a number of years ago; a novelty among Caribbean regattas which host mostly fleet races. By providing the unique opportunity for two teams to compete head-to- head on identical one-design boats, SGR’s Match Races have become a sought-after activity and are considered a separate event for registration purposes. Not only that, since SGR provides the match race boats, those who don’t own a yacht, or don’t want to race it in the fleet category, can still participate in the Last year’s Grenada Sailing Week skippers’ briefing at Last year’s Grenada Sailing Port Louis Marina invites you to “spice it up” at three different host ven- “spice it up” at three different invites you to and Marina, Le Phare Bleu Marina ues — Port Louis — JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 when apilotwhalesurfacedrightbehindtheboat.”ChrisJackson, scored thatdiversity. than 250boats,therewillbemanywaysto“doitright”.Thisyear’sARCunder- being differenteachyearand,withsome1,400individualssailingaboardmore fast andnotsofast.Conditionsvaryduringsuchalongoceanpassageaswell expert sailorsandcompletenovices,sailingonboatsoldnew,largesmall, Islands toSt.Luciatheworld’smostpopularyachtrally.Participantsinclude “bucket lists”,makingtheannualAtlanticRallyforCruisers(ARC)fromCanary Pekka Karlsson, “We werebecalmedinthemiddleofcrossingandcoolingoffwithaswim Crossing theAtlanticOceanundersailisonasurprisingnumberofpeople’s “We arrivedinSt.Luciaundermainsailalonewindsgustingupto50knots.” ARC of Extremes An Exceptional Corona Aq by SallyErdle ATLANTIC RALLYFORCRUISERS2013

Lancelot II YELLOWBRICK TRULY GLOBAL SATELLITE TRACKING SATELLITE GLOBAL TRULY YELLOWBRICK —Continuedonnextpage Pekka andBarbroKarlssonoftheLaurin32 family cruisers,whereasARC2013hadthelargestRacingDivisionever. older andsmallerthanthoseinthemainARCfleet.ThemajorityofARC+boatswere en routestopandasenseofbeingexplorers.The“average”ARC+boatwasslightly pants coheredasamuchsmallergroupwhosharedtheadditionalexperienceofan — sailedacrosstheAtlanticwithWorldCruisingClub-organizedeventthisyear. Las PalmastoRodneyBay.Twostartsmeantthatthemostboatsever—atotalof267 and some1,200peopletookthedirectroute—2,700milesonrhumblinefrom In the28theditionoftraditionalARC,whichsetsailonNovember24th,224boats from MindelototheIGYRodneyBayMarinainSt.Lucia,about2,150nauticalmiles. Palmas toMindelo,adistanceofapproximately850nauticalmiles,andLeg2sailed November 10th,2013,twoweeksaheadofthemainARCgroup.Leg1sailedfromLas stopped intheCapeVerdeislandsbeforecontinuingontoSt.Lucia.ARC+setoff boats withnearly200crewmembersaboardsailedinthepioneering“ARC+”,which exemplified ‘oldschool’cruisingwithasmall50-year-oldboatinARC+ Above: WhileARC2013containedthemostracersever,BarbroandPekka yellowbrick-tracking.com/customprints) tracks, creatingarecordspread.(Printsanddigitaldownloadsavailableatwww. Top left:Mapshowing The firstwinnersofthe“SpiritARC+”awardareconfirmedliveaboardsailors Although theARChasalwaysbeenknownforitscamaraderie,ARC+partici- For thefirsttimeinrally’shistory,thereweretworoutesavailable.Forty-three New RouteAdded Coro’s extremenortherlyrouteandsomeARCboats’southerly Corona Aq . JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 on the Caribbean racing cir- And why do so many ARCs? “It’s so cross with the ARC? “You get good crew for the ARC — people want to do it. I can pick and choose my crew. [ARC organizer] Andrew Bishop does a really good job. I hope the ARC continues to go for a long time.” much fun! I really had fun in the marina last night.” on next page —Continued Above: Racing Class B and Spirit of ARC Above: Racing Class B and 2013 winner, Ross, regularly campaigns Scarlet Oyster cuit after the ARC. (Want to race? His crews include charterers!) Left: Manfred enjoys both the ocean passag- es and the shoreside fun of the ARC, and says of St. Lucia, ‘Isn’t it beautiful here?’ had Scarlet Oyster he sailed the inaugural , was German Manfred Albatros Albatros Veterans and Newbies ranged The ages of ARC 2013 sailors Manfred takes crew for the ARC, andManfred takes crew for the size, and can sail to its maximum size, and can most of the time.” good weather-routing help and “we good weather-routing to fall in any holes”, were careful not the rhumb-line route basically taking south near the end to with one jog Ross advises, “Keep avoid a calm. keep it balanced between pressing, but risk of breakage and going faster with going slower.” The from toddlers to septuagenarians. Swan oldest skipper, of the 1962 62RS Kerstan, age 77. “Sailing is my life,” Kerstan, age 77. “Sailing since says Manfred, who has sailed childhood. After a six-and-a-half-year also circumnavigation in a 48-footer called 19th con- ARC in 1986. This was his secutive ARC — a record. spends sixhe does the cooking. He and sixmonths ashore in Germany and inmonths aboard, sailing to, from life.” Whythe Caribbean: “I like my , says, “We didn’t have , says, “We didn’t have Lancelot II , scored an elapsed time of 16 days, arrived in St. Lucia on December 5th and 5th and arrived in St. Lucia on December Caro Scarlet Oyster magazine’s Features Editor Elaine Bunting wrote in Elaine Bunting wrote in magazine’s Features Editor (575) 436 3601 - 435 8009 - COLOMBIA Yachting World , a lightweight carbon-fibre racer-cruiser, shattered the previous ARC racer-cruiser, shattered the previous ARC , a lightweight carbon-fibre Caro Continued from previous page Continued from British life-long sailor and experienced racer Ross Appleby, owner/skipper of the British life-long sailor and experienced racer Ross Appleby, From Calms to Gales part of the crossing, ARC After being bedeviled by light, fickle breezes in the first Course Record Broken in a ‘Slow’ Year Course Record Broken in as of this writing (December 19th), 2013 was the fast- While not all boats are in Oddly, with such a spread-out fleet, the night of December 13th saw six ARC fleet, the night of December 13th saw six ARC Oddly, with such a spread-out 10 hours, 21 minutes and 10 seconds. He says that factors contributing to an effi- 10 hours, 21 minutes and 10 seconds. He says that having a very well-prepared cient passage in the challenging conditions included spinnaker that paid off in boat optimized with smaller “white” sails and a bigger down wind, a manageable moderate to light downwind conditions. “The boat is good 26-year-old Oyster Lightwave 48 boats approaching St. Lucia in mid-December contended with “Christmas Winds” of boats approaching St. Lucia in mid-December contended 20 to 25 knots, gusting to 40 and higher in squalls. full tracking of the other boats coming across, and we only started realizing what coming across, and we only started realizing what full tracking of the other boats hearing all the chat on VHF — it was almost hard was happening when we started “We sparked a landfall celebration to remember: to get a word in!” The convergence with rum punch and arrived around three in the morning to a fantastic welcome arrived. Soon it was sunrise immediately started phoning our families to say we’d to breakfast and [what with and more or less the crews of all six boats went together street party] didn’t get to bed a live band at the marina and the famous Gros Ilet eighth ARC in a row. “The until four o’clock — the next morning!” This is Chris’s learn from, excellent orga- ARC provides very informative seminars that my crews of people to go and have a nization, and a great social atmosphere — that’s a lot you’ll see again in the differ- drink with in the evening. And you get to meet people ent islands all through the season.” est and will likely also be the slowest ARC to date. Although unusual weather the slowest ARC to date. Although unusual weather est and will likely also be fleet longer crossing times than expected, the Knierim patterns gave most of the 65 21 eight hours, setting a new record of ten days, course record by more than seconds. hours, 25 minutes and 10 — to do the 1995 ARC in 1986 and returned sailed in the inaugural The Swedish couple about the Cape again until they heard but had no plans to enter and 2001 editions, also aboard 12-year-old cat, Josephine, option. With a friend and their Verdes route route without sloop, they completed the new fibreglass double-ended the 50-year-old many improve- Barbro says, noting to be back in St. Lucia,” fuss. “It’s wonderful couple will sail last visit 12 years ago. The Bay Marina since their ments at Rodney and the return to Europe via Bermuda Antilles this winter and then in the Lesser an ARC: “They others thinking of doing have advice for Azores. The Karlssons a lot from the sailors, we always learned we are very experienced should. Although nice meeting people from all over the world.” ARC seminars. And it’s so still at sea. Record ARC course distances were cov- two weeks later 18 boats were almost a thousand nautical miles more than the “crow ered by some yachts sailing flies”, and, as boats cross the finish line within a 20-minute span after over 18 days at sea. Chris within a 20-minute span after over 18 days at sea. Chris boats cross the finish line Beneteau First 40 Jackson, skipper of the British her blog, “There has also been the biggest ever stretch from north to south… The The the biggest ever stretch from north to south… her blog, “There has also been — north and the furthest south was — incredibly spread between the furthest almost 1,300 miles!” JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

Scarlet Oyster plans to fly home for Christmas Albatros says, “Have fun, have friends come over, do whatever comes have friends come over, says, “Have fun,

What’s New in St. Lucia What’s New in 2013 — the introduction all the other “firsts” in ARC In addition to is also firmly on board. Director of The St. Lucia Tourism Board Caribbean Plans and ARC With the Atlantic crossing under their belts, the ARC+ Like many others in the Racing Division, Ross of Meanwhile Manfred of to mind” and then return to Norway via Bermuda and the Azores. then return to Norway via Bermuda to mind” and of participants, a record a record total number of a second route, new course record, record in Racing Division, a number of yachts and distance, and the widest spread passage lengths in both time tracks — the finish destination of between northern and southern a brand-new general manager, Simon IGY Rodney Bay Marina has ARC atmosphere is fantastic; I’m thor- Bryan. Simon says, “The every day. We are always looking for oughly enjoying it and learning we’ve enhanced security and cus- input regarding improvements: we have enhanced the WiFi in the tomer services, with Digicel marina now also provides guardianage marina for the ARC, and the that there are more things going on packages. We’re making sure it fun for the ARC+ and ARC arriv- ashore in the evenings to make crafts and music.” als, showcasing local food, “We have just signed on to host the ARC Tourism Louis Lewis says, a definite benefit to us, and the ARC for the next five years — it’s we want to go.” This year, the Ministry and ARC+ are the direction island tours especially for ARC of Tourism tailored three different appointed a Tourism Safety & participants, and has recently Ministry. “We’re taking yachting seri- Security Officer within the everything in place to make St. Lucia a ously and working to have memorable experience.” race or participants now head out into the Caribbean, to cruise, do both. cruising boat, plans to do some leisurely cruising — “It’s a fantastic and warm and what could be better than 20 knots, blue skies including the water?” — as well as the Caribbean race circuit, 48 has won RORC Caribbean 600 in February, where the Lightwave its class twice. are per- (“The flights on Condor between St. Lucia and Germany For full results of ARC 2013, and information about next year’s ARC and other World For full results of ARC 2013, and information about next Board and Bay Gardens Many thanks to World Cruising Club, the Saint Lucia Tourist months before the start. Why do the ARC? “For the adventure and the experience.” “For the adventure and the start. Why do the ARC? months before including a hugedays, having caught 13 fish “very good” crossing of 21 They enjoyed a as one whale broaching repeatedly to the sight of a humpback dorado and thrilling months, and, as the island chain for five sea. Their plan is to cruise day dawned at Gjelseth skipper Markus fect”), come back in January, sail to Puerto La Cruz in Venezuela, then head straight fect”), come back in January, sail to Puerto La Cruz in 20th ARC! to St. Maarten before sailing home — to prepare for his Cruising Club events visit www.worldcruising.com. possible, and my stay in Hotel for making first-hand coverage of the ARC 2013 arrival St. Lucia so enjoyable. . With virtually Khaleesi — all of whom are under 25 years old and none of Khaleesi Continued from previous page Continued from Equally pleased with themselves and their arrival in the tropics are the NorwegianEqually pleased with themselves and their arrival in the Manfred says that the ARC enables him to enjoy a much broader social life than is to enjoy a much broader social that the ARC enables him Manfred says While an impressive number of ARC participants are repeaters, the event also While an impressive number of ARC participants are repeaters, of attracts enthusiastic newcomers such as the young crew no sailing experience before their transatlantic passage, they now plan to cruise the no sailing experience before their transatlantic passage, Lesser Antilles whom, except for the skipper (“a little bit”), had any sailing experience before embark- whom, except for the skipper (“a little bit”), had any sailing off and only got the boat twoing on the ARC. The five young friends are taking a year crew of the 44-foot X-452 typical for most men his age: “There are old friends and always new people. I never old friends and always new men his age: “There are typical for most than on the to be in the islands rather it’s much nicer and cheaper get bored. Also, — isn’t it beautiful here?” hard in Germany — JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 swell youcanhappilyspendthetimeinandaroundBequia.FromSt.Vincentsail Grenadines andanotherdaygettingback,givensettledweathernonortherly Grenadines andstillgivesaweekinthesouthernGrenadines. plenty oftimetostopatBaliceaux,MustiqueandIsledeQuatreinthenorthern cruise givesalmostaweektoexploretheGrenadines,whiletwo-week half toreturn.ThisleavesonlyfourandadaysintheGrenadines.Aten-day surface asafulldayisneededtoreachthesouthernGrenadines,and anchorages mentionedbelowthatIfeelshouldbevisited. not agree,investigateandproceedwithcaution.Doyledoesdescribeseveral Trinidad guide—theyarequitedifferentbutcomplementary.WhereDoyleandIdo of ChrisDoyle’s and chartplotters,usechartseyeballnavigationingoodlight.Alsohaveacopy detailed chartofthemiddleGrenadines,B311.Donotrelyonelectronicnavigation Grenadines, andevenenjoysomeuncrowdedanchoragestoboot. You caneasilycruiseforaweekortwoentirelyinthewatersofSt.Vincent& and thingstodo Bequia’s AdmiraltyBayoffersaprotectedanchoragewithvarietyofservices THREE CRUISES, [email protected] www.barefootyachts If youonlyhavesevendaysanddonotwanttospendadaygettingthesouthern One-Week Cruises If startingandendingaone-weekcruiseatSt.Vincent,onebarelyscratchesthe To enjoytheGrenadineshaveonboardImrayIolairechartsA30andA31 Ready foracruisewithnohairychannelcrossingsortimespentclearingCustoms? GRENADINES Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL ALL INTHE Sailors GuidetotheWindwardIslands

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as wellmyMartiniqueto WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED

when youdepartfromthenorthwestcornerofCanouanareclosetopoint. or Mayreau.OnceacrossNorthMayreauChannelimmediatelytacktotheeastsothat bow andsternincaseagroundswellcomesin. out permissionandthegovernmenthasneverallowedbuildertoliveinit.Anchor fantastically beautifulbeachwithsoftsandandanunoccupiedhouse—builtwith- go toBloodyBayandanchorinthenortheastcorner.Hereyouwillfindadeserted, When entering,avoidWinterRock,whichhasnabbedmorethanafewboats. might feeluncomfortablebeingtheonlyyachtatanchorhere.] the crewofyacht hits thewater![Note:Althoughitisunlikelytohappenagain,onOctober3rd,2013, dives ontheotherbird,whichdropsfishthatFrigatebirdcatchesbeforeit Frigatebirds driftlazilyalonguntiltheyspotabirdwithfish.ThentheFrigatebird and setit. gently touch,droptheanchor,allowboattodriftback,giveitplentyofscope Day Threehere. used anchoragebetweenPetitRameauandHorseshoeReef.Youcaneasilyspend Marine Park(entryfeeEC$10perpersonday)anddropthehookinseldom- strong south-flowingcurrentthatwillswingyoubeamtotheseainducingaroll. coming inoverthereefandexitingsouthendofWindwardBaycreatesafairly up behindthereefasyourdraftpermits.Moorbow-and-sternfacingeast,sea rocks andshoalsuntilyoureachFriendshipPoint,thenturnnorthworkyourway miles. RoundGlossyHillandworkyourwayeastwards,eyeballnavigatingtoavoidthe SALLY ERDLE Vincent.) HeadforGlossyHillonCanouan,courseabout205°magnetic,justover17 east andanchoronthenorthsideofharbourasfarconditionspermit. so itshouldbeafastbeamorbroadreach.OnceinAdmiraltyBay,workyourway Bequia, course22°magnetic,justovereightmiles.Thewindshouldbeaftofabeam St. Vincentuntilearlyormid-afternoonsodoaquickshortruntoAdmiraltyBay, all oftheinter-islandrunswillbetwohoursorless. All theseanchoragesaredescribedbelow.Withtheexceptionoflastday’ssail, Friendship Bay,andthenAdmiraltyBay.Onthefinalday,sailbacktoSt.Vincent. to AnseCheminonBequia,andthenBaliceaux,Mustique,IsledeQuatre, season betweenPetitRameauandHorseshoeReef.Useeyeballnavigation,please! Who saystheTobagoCaysareovercrowded?Thisboatfoundasolitaryspotinhigh Allow afulldayandhalftogetbackSt.VincentwhenleavingfromUnionIsland Only ifthewindissouthofeast,andtherenosignanorthwestgroundswell, Or youcancontinueontoChathamBay,wherethebeachislinedwithrestaurants. Or headfortheleeofuninhabitedFrigateIsland,andwatchMagnificent In CliftonHarbour,sailin,roundupandeaseonforwarduntilyoufeelthekeel On DayFour,headtoUnionIslandvisitoneofitsfouranchorages. If thewindwardsideofCanouandoesn’tsuityou,carryontoTobagoCays On DayTwo,departearly.(YoucanexploreBequiaashoreonyourwaybacktoSt. On anycruisetothesouthernGrenadines,youprobablywillnotbereadyleave

DESTINATIONS Rainbow wereassaultedwhileatanchorFrigateIsland.You —Continued onnextpage .com JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 , . Visit his Fuel Dock Car Rental Service 24hrs security 110/220 A/C Power Services Provisioning The Ocean Sailing Yacht , and and was planning to stay a few days, our Cruising Guide to the Eastern Caribbean Beach Bar & Restaurant Service Taxi / Showers Bathrooms Charter Services Wifi Open Free Li’l Iolaire or St. Vincent & the Grenadines St. Iolaire Transatlantic Crossing Guide , the Mini Mart Laundry Service Book Exchange Shop Sail Loft/Canvas Restaurant Black Pearl Don Street is the author of Street’s If neither anchorage at Isle de Quatre suits you, try Petit Nevis or Friendship Bay. If neither anchorage at Isle de Quatre suits you, try Petit A Two-Week Cruise the first day head to Anse If you have a full two weeks, if conditions permit on have changed a rough West The next day sail to Mustique, where the ultra rich Then enjoy the rest of the Grenadines as described above. back to St. Vincent allow Since you have 14 days at your disposal, when heading a sailor occupied, on the As you can see from this article, there is plenty to keep Visit the anchorages on Union previously described, or visit Mayreau. Saltwhistle described, or visit Mayreau. on Union previously Visit the anchorages Or allow two day and a half for the trip. to St. Vincent, allowing a Head on back north side of the island on the narrow shelf, making Alternatively, anchor on the Left: Chatham Bay at Union Island is uninhabited — except for the beach bars Left: Chatham Bay at Union right in the photo, provides a getaway for those with Below: Petit Tabac, at upper good eyesight and shoal draft website at www.street-iolaire.com. Seawise the ruins of a stone-walled 18th century house on the ridge. It is rather amazing as the ruins of a stone-walled 18th century house on the has weathered half a dozen it has been unoccupied for more than half a century but standing. It’s a lot easier to get hurricanes and the ravages of the termites, yet is still is a path from the beach and to the house from the lagoon on the south side; there it’s not so steep. 200° magnetic. If Chemin, five miles from Blue Lagoon on a course of approximately On the second day (or on Day there are fishermen there, please stay out of their way. head off to Baliceaux. One if a surge or north wind makes Anse Chemin untenable), walk along the shore on the The land is privately owned, but of course you can has been used in England “Queen’s chain” (a chain is a standard measurement that arrived). and the colonies since shortly after William the Conqueror island that looks like a well- Indian island where a few farmers grew cotton into an tended garden. Whenever I arrived in a full day or two days in Admiralty Bay to explore Bequia. Bequia with either right up to the head of the solution to the crowded anchorage problem was to sail We would then drop the harbour, douse sail, and ease on in until we ran aground. line and set the anchor. If anchor. If the boat drifted back, we eased out the anchor run a line ashore and tie she stuck, a crewmember would jump into the shoal water, close to shore, with no prob- it to a palm tree. Then a stern anchor was set. We were us. lems with boats swinging into us or dragging down on move and off the beaten track in the Grenadines! Bay is often crowded; Saline Bay less so unless a cruise ship is in. If you want to be unless a cruise ship is in. Saline Bay less so Bay is often crowded; see my guide range 19 on chart B311; enter Windward Bay using alone, carefully to the Saline walk across the low land a dinghy ride ashore, a short page 116. Take have a fantastic hill to the church and you follow the road up the Bay beach, and you thirsty and down the hill will make Grenadines. Walking up and view of all the way that will and restaurants along the are numerous small bars hungry. There refreshments. happily sell you in Isle de at one of the two anchorages for the trip back and stop and a half days is only to be used by good eyeball navigators sailing Quatre. The southern anchorage and only in ideal light. Be prepared to leave if the wind boats drawing six feet or less, goes into the south. one if the crew goes ashore to explore. It is best to leave sure the anchor is well set feel like mountain goats can climb 300 feet to inspect person on board. Those that

BOB STEWART Dockage per foot per day: Monohull $0.74 Catamaran US$1.11 flat rate: US$12.88 Water Electricity flat rate per day: US$9.20 Gasoline and Diesel are available dockside at the government regulated price MARINA RATES: MARINA

VHF: 16 / 68 VHF: Free Rum Punch for all arriving boats! arriving all for Punch Rum Free Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina Blue Lagoon Sunsail Marine Center) (Formerly Nestled in the quiet waters in Ratho Mill, of Blue Lagoon Vincent & the Grenadines St. 1 784 458 4308 | Tel: Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina Continued from previous page Continued from After a day or so in this idyllic anchorage (conditions permitting), head west to If your boat is too deep for Petit Tabac, follow directions as above but sail past Petit If your boat is too deep for Petit Tabac, follow directions A Ten-Day Cruise but include a stop at Petit On a ten-day cruise, head south as above described, If the tide is running west, the fastest and least painful way to reach Blue Lagoon If the tide is running west, the fastest and least painful Relax and explore ashore but be ready to head back to St. Vincent in the morning Relax and explore ashore but be ready to head back to If you are not laying West Cay, tack to the east as soon as you are far enough north east as soon as you are far laying West Cay, tack to the If you are not Pinese and Mopion, pick up range 13 and head for Union Island, avoiding Gran De Coi shoal. Note the ranges/transit on B311 to avoid this danger. Tabac and on a course of about 225° magnetic toward Pinese, near Petit St. Vincent Tabac and on a course of about 225° magnetic toward B311 and my guide (page (PSV). As you approach Pinese, pick up the range on chart passing between Pinese 125). Run on in on this range on a course of 163° magnetic, Once through this passage, and Mopion using eyeball navigating — no chart plotter! of PSV and anchor. From this work your way eastward inside the reef to the north anchorage you have superb snorkeling and diving. Tabac, southeast of the Tobago Cays and within the Marine Park. Horseshoe Reef Tabac, southeast of the Tobago Cays and within the the dinghy pass (look at chart will be easily visible but the reef just to windward of in heavy weather, but the B311 carefully) will be hard to spot as it will only break Reef. As it is approached, bear shoal water will be easy to spot. Head for World’s End end of the reef of Petit Tabac. off, pass to leeward of Egg Reef, and head for the west your way east as far as your Pass to leeward of the reef, then round up and work anchorage for shoal-draft draft will permit into sheltered waters. This is an ideal or RIB you are within easy monohulls and catamarans. If you have a good dinghy interested in snorkeling or dinghy distance of World’s End Reef. If your crew is really days. diving, World’s End Reef will keep them occupied for is to short tack up the coast of Bequia all the way to Anse Chemin or until you can is to short tack up the coast of Bequia all the way to and the tide is running to the easily lay Blue Lagoon. If you do not lay Blue Lagoon two or possibly three knots. west, off the south coast of St. Vincent it will be running to leeward like a giant vacuum On starboard tack the foul tide will be sucking you off cleaner; on port tack it will be stopping you dead. before the wind really begins to blow. Again check the tide. If possible leave on a before the wind really begins to blow. Again check the Blue Lagoon is 045° magnetic, weather-going tide. The course from Admiralty Bay to is south of east and you have a course that you cannot possibly lay unless the wind can make it to Blue Lagoon a weather-going, lifting tide. If all this falls in place you miles (until you get off the or Young Island in one shot — but during the first three be short and steep, almost shelf), with the wind against the tide the waves will square. Once off the shelf the seas will lengthen out. to lay Isle de Quatre on port tack. There will be smoother water and less current in will be smoother water and Quatre on port tack. There to lay Isle de Cay, tack to the you feel you can lay West north of West Cay. Once this area than into Admiralty work your way eastwards West Cay close aboard then north. Round side of the bay. Bay and anchor in the north — is running 16 miles. If the current West Cay, Bequia is 025° magnetic, The course to to lay the course. steer about 040° magnetic leeway you will have to to the west, given If you can time all the Imray Iolaire charts. information on the back of Check the tidal first of the east- of Canouan to pick up the from the northwest corner your departure it. reach rather than hard on run will be an easy close going tide, this JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 Harbour isbeautifulatanytimeoftheday,rainorshine. anchorages. Clearanceproceduresarepleasantandconvenient.St.George’s Most often,itisfarenoughsouththatyouaresafefromhurricanes.Thereample over 400mileslongasthecrowflies—isGrenada.Itexquisiteinsomanyways. that theinstantweseeapictureofthem,recognizethem. track” becausemanyhavecruiseditforsolong.Someanchoragesarefamiliar of whattheyhavetooffer.TheLesserAntillesisoftenreferredasthe“beaten —Continuedonnextpage that Imetwhattheirexplorationplanfor Grenadawas. do wegetto“see”ofGrenada? up onour“todo”list,andlookfriends tocatchuponallthenews.Howmuch now routinelyroundup,dropsailandset ourhook.Wethendoshopping,follow beat fastwhenwesawtheentrancetoSt. George’s,orHogIslandPricklyBay,we less excitementinmakingourlandfall. Whereas inyearspastourheartsstartedto destination andwegotoitdirectly.Asthe yearsgoby,wefindthatthereislessand by FrankVirgintino Below: Thebestpartofthemarketispeople.Slowdown,interactandexplore… essence ofSt.George’s Above: Grenadathroughanartist’seyes.SusanMains’paintingcapturesthevibrant Revisiting Grenada… One ofthemostbeautifuldestinationsinLesserAntilles—achainislands Anchorages arelikerelationships:onceyoutakethemforgranted,losesight Recently, Ihadtheopportunitytospend afewweeksinGrenadaandIaskedthose As humans,wearecreaturesofhabit.We haveourfavoriteanchorageatagiven and SeeingItforthe Very FirstTime

DESTINATIONS

JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 Continued from previous page Continued from Frank Virgintino is the author of Free Cruising Guides (www.freecruisingguide.com). No matter how many times you’ve been here, make the effort to see Grenada for The following day I had to do some food shopping and went to the supermarket at The day was spent, and so I made my way back to St. George’s. Sitting on the rear The French endeavored to extend their control over the whole of the island in the From Belmont Estate, it is not far to make for St. Patrick, one of the parishes of From Gouyave to the Dougaldston Plantation is only a stone’s throw. There are a From Gouyave to the Dougaldston Plantation is only The following day, I took a taxi and headed for Gouyave. I had been there in years pastThe following day, I took a taxi and headed for Gouyave. I wanted to rediscover Grenada, to go to areas I had not been to or had been to and areas I had not been to or had Grenada, to go to I wanted to rediscover While there is a time for rest, there should also be a time to discover what is in the also be a time to discover a time for rest, there should While there is I found none who planned to sail around Grenada to the different harbors and Grenada to the different who planned to sail around I found none the very first time. Pull up your anchor and do a series of mini-cruises. Take a taxi or a bus and explore inland; I have just scratched the surface, as there is so much more. All you need to do is go look for it! the Spice Island Mall, the most modern supermarket on the island. They also sell wonderful luncheon meals that you carry away at really inexpensive prices — cheap, if you will, but really good. One of the stores at the west end of the mall is Susan Mains Art Gallery. If there is any one person who can capture the sense of what Grenada is, Susan does it and does it well. Her paintings of the Carenage are brilliant and evoke a sense of another time long passed but at the same time in colors and hues that still make their appearance daily. deck of my boat afforded me an opportunity to take another look at St. George’s Harbour. The sun was going down and the harbor was putting on still yet another face. It seemed to me in that moment that perhaps I never had looked close enough to see it all or to see it in a different way; perhaps a way where words to describe how beautiful it is are no longer necessary. mid-1600s. Determined not to submit to French rule, the Caribs fought a succession of losing battles, and ultimately the last surviving Caribs jumped to their death off a precipice located in what is currently an old graveyard. I stood at the precipice, looking out on the Caribbean, and wondered if I would have had the courage to do what the Caribs did: jump to their death, every man, woman and child. Grenada. Here you can visit Le Morne de Sauteurs, or Leapers’ Hill. number of plantations that still operate on Grenada and Dougaldston is one of them. number of plantations that still operate on Grenada and plantations and the various Watching the tour guides go through the history of the fresh spices are enough to products is anything but boring. Just the smells of the can travel west to the Belmont intoxicate you. From the Dougaldston Plantation, you the effort to visit. The tour Estate, which is also a working plantation and well worth the history of how cocoa is guide gave us all samples of cocoa and took us through woman’s tone that brought processed. Perhaps it was the enthusiasm in this young everything to life, but she kept everyone’s attention so well that every parent in the group wished their children’s schoolteacher was this good. There is also a restaurant on the grounds whose elevation allows for beautiful views and whose menu and quality is anything but commonplace. The waitresses were dressed in what could be referred to as “creole country” attire. Their service was the best I have experienced anywhere in the Caribbean. Don’t miss it, as it’s wonderful experience. but wanted to know why it is called “the town that never sleeps”. I figured I would buybut wanted to know why it is called “the town that never slept. I spent about an hour insome fish and also ask around about why the town never roots are in Portugal. Hethe general store, the owner of which is a Grenadian whose fishermen are renownedexplained to me, perhaps with tongue in cheek, why Gouyave fishing seriously and thoseand why the town never sleeps. Gouyave townspeople take the nets”. As most fishing activ- that do not go out in boats to fish lend a hand in “pulling most of the task is complete.ity takes place very early in the morning, before daybreak bird gets the worm” theme. ByAs a result, the town never sleeps. Kind of like an “early not own a boat and do not gothe way, there is no excuse to go hungry for even if you do helps gets some of the fish. fishing, you can help “pull the nets” and each person who At Belmont Estate, the tour guide took us through the history of how cocoa At Belmont Estate, the tour guide took us through the history is processed and brought everything to life forgotten. Normally when I want to go shopping, I head for the supermarket. Instead, I head for the supermarket. when I want to go shopping, forgotten. Normally not in St. George’s. I had been there before but had I went to the Farmer’s Market I was — full of color and sound and smell. I thought remembered how vibrant it and vegetables, but ended up spending the better part would just pick up a few fruits the and vegetables were well worth the money, as were of an entire day. The fruits the the best part of the day was the people. Most of lime juice and spices. However, and are staffed by women, interspersed with a man here booths in the spice market so listen to the banter, it is enough to make you laugh there. If you stand back and are Grenadians have a keen sense of humor and if you hard as to bring you to tears. it it does not take long to catch on. While I was there, willing to “play the game”, he the men told me it was “weather for two”. I thought started to rain and one of to be slow and that they were going to have a two- meant that business was going two were on sale! After that I could have said any- for-one sale. I asked him which laughed! thing and everyone would have next bay and the next anchorage. Too often I hear “Seen it, done that”! Cruising is not I hear “Seen it, done that”! the next anchorage. Too often next bay and new cultures. learning about new areas and it is an art that includes a check-off list; anchorages. One even told me, that if they upped anchor, “they would lose their they upped anchor, “they even told me, that if anchorages. One years” what he been coming to Grenada for another fellow who “had space”. I asked not his favorite fruit! He told me that it was thought of Gouyave. — JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 Call (784)456-2602. beyond, andmore. AT BASIL’S: Call(784)457-2713. some ofthebestonisland.Nowofferingfullcateringservices. conditioned, youwillenjoycocktailsmostdelightful,thestaffwelcomingandmealsare BASIL’S BAR: Visitors toStVincent areinvitedto: efficiently arranged.Call(784)488-8407. pieces, homefurnishings,fabulouslightingaccessoriesandmore.Shippingiseasily Across Forever hasamagnificentcollectionoffurniturefromAsiaandbeyond,contemporary ACROSS FOREVER: Call (784)488-8407. Imported cigarsandanunusualcollectionofbooksnottobemissed.Fine foodsinParadise. Store. Bountifullystocked withfineFrench wines,cheesefromEurope,gourmetjamsandsauces. BASIL’S GREAT GENERAL STORE: take home.Basil’sBoutiquealsoofferssilverandgemstonejewelry. Elegant islandeveningandplayfuldaywear. For women,menandchildren,plus lotsofT-shirts to BASIL’S BOUTIQUE takes placefromJanuary22-February 5,2014.Call(784)488-8350orVHF68. BBQ. Basil’sBarishomeoftheonlyBluesFestival intheCaribbean.TheMustiqueBluesFestival late. CometoBasil’sforcocktailsanytimeandplanattendtheWednesday NightJumpUpand beginsat8:00am.Lunch11:00am-6pm,andDinner7:30until up ontheweb.Breakfastservice the bestbeefburgerinCaribbean.EquippedwithWIFI,youcanenjoysunsetcocktailsandcatch of Basil’sBarinMustiqueisallthatandmore:offeringfreshseafood,lobsterseason,steaks Best Barsin1987byNewsweekandtodaylivesuptothattradition.Recently renovated,thenewface BASIL’S BARANDRESTAURANT: Visitors toMustiqueareinvitedto:

& theGrenadines VHF Channel16 @gmail.com 784-456-1302 784-456-2640 784-457-2178 St. Vincent ottleyhall Phone: email: Mustique Visit Basil’sinMustiqueorSt.Vincent Fax: Collectionofbeautifulbamboofurniture,contemporarypiecesfromAsiaand www.basilsbar.com [email protected]

LocatedinKingstownan18thcenturybuildingnamedCobblestone.Air WE SHIPAROUNDTHEWORLD! : Fabrics asbrighttheseaandlightair... perfectforislandjoy. Basil’s Bar ImaginedecoratingyourhomewithantiquesfromBaliandIndia. Shower&toilet Electricity &water • 22berthsforyachtsfrom22M-65M • • Electrical,refrigeration&mechanicalrepairs MARINA SERVICES Welding, painting,ﬁ berglass • • Woodwork &metalwork • Sand 40tonnetravellift • blasting Drydock facilitiesupto65M&1000tonne • • • Covered SHIPYARD REPAIR SERVICES drydock Basil’s BarinMustiquewasnamedoneoftheWorld’s Ten There is nothing general about Basil's Great General There isnothinggeneralaboutBasil'sGreatGeneral EST since1976 Lesser AntillesafterMontPeléeinMartinique. Morne Diablotinandwonder.At4,747feet,itisthesecondhighestpeakin bus andonfootfromthetown.Nearlyeveryday,though,wewouldlooktowards sought outandwalkedseveralsegmentsoftheWaitukubuliTrailaccessiblebylocal Dominica, ourproposedweek’sstaytherefinallystretchingtothreeweeksaswe most enjoyableexperienceswhileanchoredinPrinceRupertBay,Portsmouth, nearest pointybitandthinkabouthowtogetupit.IntheCaribbeanwehadour ers andhillwalkers,too.Soanynewanchorageisaplacetolookaroundforthe Coromandel hills tothenorth,Portsmouthlookinglike atoytowntothenorthwith denly thecloudswhippedawaytowest. Therespreadbelowuswasthesweepof beading ourhairandclothes,hopingthat thecloudswouldcleartogiveusaview. same shrubbyvegetation.Undaunted,we pressedonalongtheridge,waterdroplets through themistIcaughtoccasionalglimpses ofaterracebelow,coveredinthe would havebeenaviewpointhadwenot beenabovethecloudbase.AsIpeeredout on climbingframesintheschoolplayground. we passed.Itwasagloriousexperienceandtookmebacktochildhooddaysspent bons throughtherootsametreorsoaboveground,hangingontoother as in otherswescrambledupsmall,rockydefilesandyetswunglike gib- multitude ofrootsabovetheground.Insomeplacespathwentunderroots, small, gnarledtree,morelikeawoodyshrub.Thesehadlarge,leatheryleavesand a with itswidevarietyoftreesgavewaytoanareadominatedbyasinglespecies of beneath thecanopyandalittleraininnighthadmadeitdampunderfoot. hear soclearly,inadditiontoahostofotherbirds.Itwascool,dimandhumid the SisserouParrot,Dominica’snationalbirdwhichappearsonherflag,wecould afforded ampleopportunitytotakebreathersaswelookedfortheparrots,notably constructed ofwoodormakingusetreerootsandrocks.Itwasasteepclimbthat posted. Atfirstthepathisaseriesofstepsupthroughrainforest,sometimes convenient parkingspaceifyouchoosetotakeyourowncar. steeply upwardsintotheforest,pastsignposttoSyndicateFalls.There is a the waytoMorneDiablotinNationalPark.Fromthispoint,roadwinds The roadtothestartofhikefirstrunsalongcoast,whereasignpostshows how wewouldaccomplishthiswasamystery,butthatallpartoftheadventure. assuring himthatwewouldnotneedaliftback;makeourownway.Quite stick. Ourdriverpickedusupatthefishermen’swharf0700andby0730wewere seems toaccompanyuseverywhereandwhichservesdoubledutyasawalking — walkingbootsformeandhikingsandalsAndyIhadtheumbrellathat improved, sowewerenotworriedabouttheweather.Webothhadstoutfootwear got thereforless,buttheexperiencewehadmorethanmadeuphighfare. quoted wasnotcheap(EC$60,oraboutUS$23),andwelaterfoundthatcouldhave asked himtotakeusthestartofhikenearSyndicateWaterfall.Thefarehe Waitukubuli TrailfromRossUniversitytoBorne,sowespokeataxidriverand —Continuedonnextpage the distanthorizon,seaturningeast coastintoafringeoficing.Magical! merest speckinPrinceRupertBay;Guadeloupe, LesSaintesandMarieGallantelayon ‘Nearly everydaywewouldlooktowardsMorneDiablotinandwonder’ MORNE DIABLOTIN Despite havingsailedsome60,000milesinour1973Nicholson35sloop, A shortdistancealongtheridgewecame towhatlookedlikeasummit—andsud- Finally wearrivedatapointwhereslightdeviationtotheleftbroughtuswhat Eventually weattainedtheridge—thenrealfunbegan!Thethickrainforest The trailtoMorneDiablotinstartsatanelevationof1,900feetandisclearlysign- It wasagreyishmorning,butseveralmorningshadstartedthusandtheday On April12th,2013,mybirthday,wehadasplendiddaywalkingSegment11ofthe FAINTHEARTED – NOTFORTHE , myhusband,Andy,andIarenotjustliveaboardyachties:weclimb- by LindaLaneThornton ALL ASHORE… Coromandel the the JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

THORNTON (2) the merest speck Coromandel • Walking poles would be an advantage. The hike starts at 1,900 feet and although • Take plenty of food and water, as there is • Take a waterproof rucksack to hold every- • Take a waterproof outer garment, like a • Ensure that you have really good foot- If you are thinking of doing this walk, my the actual walking distance is about only the actual walking distance is about only three miles, the steepness of the gradient very clearly marked and needs to be taken into consideration. The trail is six hours for the ascent maps are available from tourist offices. Allow about and return. no opportunity to get either on the trail. thing, as you will need to use both hands for the scrambling bits. kagoul, as the high terrain can bring showers. wear, i.e. hiking boots or proper hiking san- dals, and expect to get your feet wet if it has been raining. advice would be: Continued from previous page Continued from And if not, then at least the walk was downhill. As luck would have it, we met one And if not, then at least the walk was downhill. As luck Back on the tarred road again, we found a small stream and washed off the worst Back on the tarred road again, we found a small stream The descent was made more interesting by the damp squelchiness underfoot, interesting by the damp squelchiness underfoot, The descent was made more We ate our lunches while contemplating the view and then, when the clouds began the view and then, when the while contemplating We ate our lunches A view of Prince Rupert Bay, with Portsmouth looking like a toy town A view of Prince Rupert Bay, and of the park rangers who gave us a lift all the way to Portsmouth, and who proved to of the park rangers who gave us a lift all the way to Portsmouth, the economy and Dominica’s be an inspired source of information on the vegetation, end to a fascinating and budding eco-tourist image. An educational and entertaining enjoyable day. of the mud in the hopes that we would get a lift back to the Roseau-Portsmouth road of the mud in the hopes that we would get a lift back to from where we could get a bus. caused by a passing rain shower, short-lived but intense. Andy slipped into a puddle short-lived but intense. Andy slipped into a puddle caused by a passing rain shower, off my boots (I tied them back on with lengths taken up to his knee, both soles came the I tumbled over, ending with my head pointing down from some lianas) and then totally stuck, with Andy having to haul me upright hill, upside down on my back, so, commenting on the muddy onto my feet again, laughing immoderately as he did elbows and rucksack were state I’d got myself into; feet, knees, bottom, hands, blobbed with mud — I looked like a grubby little urchin. to close in again, debated whether to continue to the true summit, some 500 yards to the true summit, debated whether to continue to close in again, of fighting our higher. After ten minutes though only some 30 feet to the southeast, took this final was evident that few people thickly tangled shrubs — it way through down. turned back to make our way stretch — we — JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22

Lesser Antillesin Puerto Rico ABC Islands Trinidad Jamaica Cuba Haiti Cayman Islands Dominican Republic www.freecruisingguide.com QI]Q1 V `V]:1` T V]Q67 ]QC7V V` L $C: H:`GQJ L 1``1H1:C RV:CV` `Q` 1!! $VJV`: Q` !2 VJ$1JV 1``1H1:C RV:CV` `Q` 1!! $VJV`: Q` CRUISING GUIDES ! R #!$

Compliments of: ^U _ T HC1]]V`R.1]1:J:RQQ8`` 0:H%%I ]`QHV L $VCHQ: `V]:1` L ]C71QQR ** 2 23 * T QJV # ^R1J$.7 :HHV_ Boca Chica, DominicanRepublic ) * %J 1C `VG`%:`7 Q R1HQ%J QJ www.marinazarpar.com FREE Marina 3 volumes Zar-Par the beer. around Caribbeanbeach-barsduringhurricaneseasonasmuchfortheTV network thatbeganbroadcastingin1982,andcruisershavebeenknowntocluster followed inCincinnati1940or1947.TheWeatherChannelisa24-hourcable United States,thefirstpublicradioforecastsweremadein1925;television forecasts tobemadefromknowledgeofweatherconditionsfartherupwind.Inthe weather conditionsfromawideareatobereceivedalmostinstantaneously,allowing any fasterthanasteamtrain.Bythelate1840s,telegraphallowedreportsof widely practicabletotransportinformationaboutthecurrentstateofweather 1835 thatthemodernageofweatherforecastingbegan.Beforethistime,itwasnot sailors’ attention. even tappedabarometer?Yetweatherpredictionoccupieslargepartof forecast thenextday’sweather?Forthatmatter,whenwaslasttimeyou of CaribbeanandEastCoasthamSSB nets,includingweathernets. Caribbean weathersources,andwww.docksideradio.com/east_coast.htm hasalist ed athttp://magicseaweed.com. Tropical Weather pageinadditiontopaid-forcustomforecasts) inadditiontopaid-forcustom forecasts) andweatherrouting) waveandweatherforecaststohelpsailorswithpassage planning andmorevisualstormstuff) www.nnvl.noaa.gov(greatsatellite images,animations www.srh.noaa.gov/sju pack-public/animation/animMOSAIC2.html (inFrench) cruisers haverecommended.Mostincludesatelliteand/orradarimages. information fromon-linesources.HerewepresentaselectionthatvariousCaribbean widely availableintheCaribbean,increasingnumbersofsailorsgettheirweather replaced byGRIBfiles. sextant sights.Theuseofonce-popularweatherfaxhastoagreatextentbeen because theynolongerneedWWV’s“timeticks”toensurethetimingaccuracyof WWV ateightandnineminutesafterthehouron2.5,5,10,1520Mhz), radio formarinestormwarnings(Atlantichighseasarestillbroadcastby hole, ithasalsobeenawhilesincemarinersroutinelylistenedtogoodoldWWV examining onionskinsorseeingwhethernotthegroundhogwentbackinhis Although it’sbeenalongtimesincepeopletriedseriouslytopredicttheweatherby According toWikipedia,itwasnotuntiltheinventionofelectrictelegraphin “Red skyatnight…”Whenwasthelasttimeyousimplylookedto Did wemissanything?Sendusyourfavorites! •USNationalHurricaneCenter:www.nhc.noaa.gov Finally, thiswww.tropicalwx.comincludes acomprehensivelistofother In addition,surfandswellforecasts(great forthose“iffy”anchorages)areprovid- Hurricane InformationWebsites Commercial MarineWeatherServiceWebsites •USNationalWeatherService(forUSVIandPuertoRico): •Trinidad&TobagoWeatherRadar:www.metoffice.gov.tt/radar International/General WeatherWebsites •SXMCyclone/St.Martin:www.sxmcyclone.com(inFrench) •MartiniqueWeatherRadar:www.meteo.fr/temps/domtom/antilles/ •FrenchWestIndiesWeather:www.meteo.gp/(inFrench) •DominicanRepublicMetOffice:www.onamet.gov.do(inSpanish) •CuraçaoMetDepartment:www.meteo.an •CubaMetInstitute:www.met.inf.cu(inSpanish) Caribbean National,RegionalandIslandWeatherWebsites Although SSBradioweatherforecastsarestillindispensable,today,withWiFiso The technologyusedtodisseminateweatherforecastsiscontinuallyevolving.

• CaribbeanHurricaneNetwork:www.stormcarib.com • StormPulse:www.stormpulse.com(paid-forcustomforecasts) • CrownWeatherServices:www.crownweather.com(providesagood (paid-forcustomforecasts) • ChrisParker’sMarineWeatherCenter:www.mwxc.com • Buoyweather:www.buoyweather.com(suppliesfreetwo-dayforecasts • WeatherUnderground:www.wunderground.com/tropical • PassageWeather:http://passageweather.com(providesseven-daywind, • NOAA’sEnvironmentalVisualizationLaboratory: • DesperateSailors:https://www.desperatesailors.com/page/weather/carib_sxm NASA

SELECTED ON-LINE WEATHER

SOURCES MODERN MECHANICS MODERN An articlefrom magazine, 1932 Modern Mechanics

JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2014 CALENDAR JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 CALENDAR OFEVENTS2014 JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2014 CALENDAR JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 CALENDAR OFEVENTS2014 JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 and Wildlife’sProgramme,ourconservationpartners. Sanctuary, UNEP’sCaribbeanEnvironmentProgramme’sSpeciallyProtectedAreas tional researchcollaborationbetweenNOAA’sStellwagenBankNationalMarine their breedinggroundsintheWiderCaribbeanRegion.Theprojectisaninterna- movements ofhumpbackwhalesbetweentheirNorthAtlanticfeedinggroundsand gered species,CARIBTailsisenlistingyachtersascitizenscientiststohelptrackthe two wingsofthetail.Thesemarkingsincludebothnaturalpigmentationandscars. white pigmentationpatternsontheunderside(orventralportion)offlukes, vidual whaleanywhereitmaytravelthroughoutitslifebycomparingblackand ers. Photo-identificationisatechniquethatenablesscientiststoidentifyanindi- Caribbean andalongmigrationcorridors. ders, withspecificfocusoninternationalbreedingandmatinggroundsinthe and DutchAntillestoensuretheprotectionofhumpbackwhalesoutsideUSbor- other marinemammalsanctuariesinBermuda,theDominicanRepublicandFrench Program todevelopstrategic,science-based“sistersanctuaryrelationships”with strikes contributetomortalitythroughouttheirmigratorypath. recovery rateashumanimpactssuchentanglementinfishinggearandvessel breeding groundswithnewcalveseachspring.Thispopulationshowsaslowed shared populationofalmost1,000humpbackwhalesthatreturnfromtheirtropical Stellwagen BankNationalMarineSanctuary,withintheGulfofMaine,protectsa and theCaribbeanSeawithoutapassport. but theirown,travelingthroughinternationalwatersoftheNorthAtlanticOcean tions ofanyanimal.Theyareinternationalcitizens,acknowledgingnosovereignty ing, wooingtheoppositesexandgivingbirthnursingtheiryoung. months inthewarm,tropicalseasofCaribbean,swimming,cavorting,convers- food andfeedinginnorthernlatitudes,humpbacksspendtheirtimethewinter is aleisuresocietythatpredatesoursbysome50millionyears.Besideslookingfor outstretched wingsofamassiveseabird. parting viewmaybeapairof15-foot-widetailflukesraisedoverthewaterlike slowly rollsintothedepths,exposingatinydorsalfinontopofsmallhump.A a citybus,itrisesfromtheseafiringvaporousplumesitsblowholes,andthen ness ofitsbreathing—thoseexplosivechuffsthatstartlesmemost. Some 100yardsfromtheboat,plumesofmisteruptsea,butit’sharsh- that myhorizonissuddenlychangingshape. Using photo-identificationtechniquestohelpmonitortherecoveryofthisendan- Knowing theidentityofindividualwhalescanbecriticalimportancetoresearch- What aTailCanTell:Photo-Identification In 2007,StellwagenBankNationalMarineSanctuarycreatedtheSister The USNationalOceanographicandAtmosphericAdministration’s(NOAA’s) Within theanimalkingdom,humpbackwhalemakesoneoflongestmigra- A SanctuaryConcern:ProtectionBeyondBorders Celebrated byHermanMelvilleasthemost“gamesome”ofgreatwhales,theirs Anyone whoseesahumpbackisimpressedbyitsenormityandgrace.Thesizeof A humpbackwhaleburststhroughthesurfacelikealocomotivefromtunnel. THE byNathalieWard Tel :+590872043•Fax: +590875595•[email protected] •VHF:16/12 Science ProjectforYachters CARIB Tails An InternationalCitizen MARINA PORTLAROYALE on deck,barelyawake,asIslowlytakeinthesense many inthebluelatitudes,perfectandunending.I’m howling, butspeakinginafirmvoice—daylikeso sea isslate-colored,smoothasasphalt.Thewindisn’t

• • • • at marina office at marinaoffice andshopsintown surroundedby thebestrestaurants SaintMartincustomsclearances Hurricaneprotected 90dock spacesand48buoys InthecenterofMarigot,

-Marigot–97150SaintMartinF.W.I WHALE AND DOLPHIN CONSERVATION DOLPHIN AND WHALE Bank NationalMarineSanctuary Administration’s Stellwagen Oceanographic andAtmospheric with theUSNational Thank you! website www.caribtails.org. CARIB Tails,pleasevisitthe how youcanparticipatein Humpback Flukes and YourPhotographsof Humpback WhaleMigration back whales. south migrationrouteofhump- sighting confirmedthenorth- the DominicanRepublic.Her researchers onSilverBankoff whale tohavebeenseenby first GulfofMainehumpback one since1976.Sheisalsothe Sanctuary everysummerexcept seen onStellwagenBank Sanctuary Program,hasbeen “Grande Dame”oftheSister and stewardship. mammal conservationaction ness, andmotivatemarine protection, raisepublicaware- mal conservationandhabitat understanding ofmarinemam- Catalogue helpsadvance Information gainedfromthe regions includingNorthAmerica,Norway,Iceland,GreenlandandtheCaribbean. scientists andtouristswhohavecontributedphotographsofhumpbacksfrom back whales.Itistheresultofcollaborationbetweenscientists,naturalists,citizen return tothesamenorthernfeedingareaeachsummer. two years,traveltotheCaribbeaninwintermateandgivebirth,appear that humpbacksmatureatnoearlierthanfouryearsofage,mayhavecalvesevery tion) iskeptinadatabase.Usingthesekindsofdata,ithasbeenpossibletolearn Bar Harbor,Maine.Informationabouteachwhalesighting(suchasdate,time,loca- which hasbeenmaintainedsince1976byAlliedWhaleattheCollegeofAtlantic, against thephotographsinexistingNorthAtlanticHumpbackWhaleCatalogue, backs sincethisresearchbeganinthe1970s. researchers tomonitorthemovements,healthandbehaviorofindividualhump- markings ontheunderside.Naturalcapturedthiswayhaveallowed above thewater’ssurfaceandprovideresearchersopportunitytophotograph underside oftheir(tail)flukes.Whenhumpbacksdive,theyoftenraiseflukes tion sizesandmigrationpatterns. tists canmonitorindividualanimalsandgathervaluableinformationaboutpopula- numbers, butalsowithnames.Bycataloguingindividualhumpbackwhales,scien- where intheGulfofMainehavebeencatalogued,notonlywithformalidentification Nathalie Ward, PhD, works Nathalie Ward,PhD,works For moreinformationabout Wanted: YourHelptoTrack “Salt”, alsoknownasthe The cataloguecontainsflukephotographsofmorethan7,000individualhump- When newphotographsofhumpbacktailflukesarereceived,theymatched The FLUKECatalogue:HowandWhy Individual humpbackwhalesareidentifiedbytheblackandwhitepatternson Since theearly1970s,humpbackwhalesinStellwagenBankSanctuaryandelse- patterns. Yourphotoscanhelp! and gathervaluableinformationaboutpopulationsizesmigration individual humpbackwhales,scientistscanmonitoranimals Flukeprints arethe‘fingerprints’ofwhaleidentification.Bycataloguing

NATHALIE WARD/NOAA JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Silverheels. (Sheridan House), is available Ready for Sea! - How to Outfit the Writer/photographer, marine industry consultant and A boom hoist will hold the dinghy away from the Once you’ve worked out a quick and easy system for It’s handy to use the mainsheet to hoist the dink via the mainsheet to hoist It’s handy to use an electric windlass or aIf your boat is equipped with lifelong cruising sailor Tor Pinney (www.tor.cc) has logged about 150,000 nautical miles under sail. His articles appear in boating magazines worldwide and his authoritative book, Modern Cruising Sailboat in nautical bookstores and online. Tor is presently revisiting the Caribbean aboard his 42-foot ketch, ghy and motor with an undersized winch is hard work! mother ship, but if you’re lifting with a halyard the tender will rise up hard against the vessel’s topsides. Protect the finish by removing the dink’s inboard oar and/or any fittings that might scrape, and by hanging a mat or a couple of small fenders against chafe. Then secure the dink’s painter snugly to the nearest cleat forward. Otherwise a blustery squall might lift its bow precariously. Finally, lead the dinghy’s cable or chain to a deck fitting and padlock it. lifting and locking your dinghy, it becomes an end-of- the-day routine that pays a big dividend. As a fringe benefit it deters bottom growth, but mainly you’ll sleep better knowing your precious tender will still be there in the morning. strong and adjusted so that the boom is angled up a so that the boom is strong and adjusted vertical lift the angle between the bit, ideally bisecting reposi- Once the dinghy is raised, and the masthead. dinghy rests inboard just enough so the tion the boom or shrouds to hull fenders, stanchions gently against Alternatively swinging in a chop or wake. brace it against stern and spring lines. you can rig bow, multi- it’s often already run through the boom since put a snap to a stout winch. If you purchase blocks block you’ll be able to shackle on the sheet’s base its usual deck fitting and transfer it quickly between Note that if the mainsheet the dinghy harness lift ring. forward of the boom’s after is normally positioned well and motor may cause end, then the weight of a dinghy that spar. Alleviate this by undue flexing or bending of lift to the same posi- temporarily moving the topping lift strap around the tion on the boom — a simple — or by moving the sheet boom will be useful here are in opposition. block aft so the two forces a big genoa sheet winch,large power winch, or even line, whether mainsheet orconsider leading the hoist heavy-duty snatch blockshalyard, to it using one or two Raising a full-size din- secured to strong deck fittings. by Tor Pinney

Dinghy Out Dinghy Out for the Night

Hoisting Your Hoisting Your LIFT IT OR IT OR LIFT LOSE IT LOSE However you accomplish the attachments, the key is Finding the optimum position for the central lift ring To use your boom to raise the dinghy, swing it out There are as many ways to hoist a dinghy as there are to skin the proverbial cat. Experiment until you find a method that you’ll use regularly ness needs two attachment points aft, spread well ness needs two attachment the transom — through- apart. These are typically on work well — but straps bolted eyebolts or pad-eyes pontoons aft will also that encircle an inflatable’s least one harness connec- serve. Then you’ll need at hard-bottom inflatables tion forward. Some larger, in the sole. If your din- come with forward lifting rings then use the port and ghy’s sole won’t support these, towing rings on the bow. starboard (or the midship) stress and chafe across Wide webbing will spread the the pontoons better than cable or line. Alternatively you can make up a broad lifting strap that passes entirely beneath the dinghy’s bow section. to position the harness’ lift ring so the raised dinghy sits level athwartships, but with the bow slightly higher than the stern to encourage rainwater to run out through the transom drain. If there is no drain at the center base of your dink’s transom, you’ll need to install one. Otherwise an overnight deluge can fill it, adding hundreds of pounds to its weight — a quick way to find the weakest link in your hoisting system. Even an empty dinghy and outboard motor will put a lot of strain on the hoisting gear, so be sure that all the components — blocks, straps, lines, lashings and attachment points — are oversized and extra strong. takes some experimentation, so your harness lines have to be adjustable at least in the beginning. Because the weight of an outboard motor naturally makes the dinghy very stern-heavy, the lifting point needs to be well aft of center to compensate. If you’re using a direct halyard (as opposed to a boom crane), it will lift the dink from a slight angle, not straight up. In that case the lifting ring must be offset athwartships over the dinghy, towards the mother ship a couple of inches. Set up what seems about right, lift your dinghy enough to clear the water, and look at how it sits. If the stern hangs dramatically lower than the bow, lower the boat and reposition the lift ring a little farther aft by adjusting the harness lines. If it hoists bow down, shift the ring forward. Make small adjustments. You’ll be surprised what a difference in balance it makes just moving the ring an inch or two. more or less perpendicular to the vessel and secure it there with guys fore and aft. Be sure the topping lift is

hese days dinghy theft is a fact of life in in theft is a fact of life hese days dinghy of harbors. In parts many Caribbean it’s positively rampant. Latin America thieves are poor, moonlight- Whether the T You can hoist the tender alongside a sailboat with a Obviously, if your boat is equipped with sturdy There are several ways to raise a dinghy for the Most stolen dinks disappear from anchorages late atMost stolen dinks disappear Dinghies sometimes disappear from docks in broad Dinghies sometimes disappear halyard, or with the main boom and sheet. Either way halyard, or with the main boom and sheet. Either way you’ll first need to purchase or devise a three- or four- point lifting harness and the means for attaching it to the dinghy. This harness can be made up from strong lines, webbing, or stainless steel cables radiating from a beefy central, vertical lifting loop or ring. The har- davits you’re all set — as long as you use them every davits you’re all set — as long as you use them every night. Alternatively, some sailors simply hoist their tenders onto the foredeck with a halyard. This neces- sitates removing and stowing the outboard and then re-deploying it in the morning, an onerous chore to repeat seven times a week, especially if the motor is larger than a few horsepower. That’s why most skippers prefer to lift the dinghy and motor together alongside their vessel. night, with variations ad infinitum. It’s worthwhile night, with variations ad infinitum. It’s worthwhile figuring out in advance what works best for you, since some arrangements call for a bit of customization and experimentation. Most importantly, the process needs to be as quick and easy as possible so that you’re never tempted to let it slide — because that may well be the night dinghy thieves single you out. less so than having to replace a dinghy and outboard. night. It’s better to lock your dinghy astern at the endnight. It’s better to lock your professional thieves haveof the day than not, but the chain is the most cut- cable cutters. Stainless steel is not an absolute guar- resistant tether, but even that be there in the morning.antee that your dink will still lift their dinghies out of theThat’s why prudent cruisers most historically securewater overnight in all but the even an option. You eitherports. In some places it’s not It’s inconvenient, but muchlift it or you lose it, period. daylight. Locking yours to something solid every time daylight. Locking yours to doing it, ideally with chain whether or not others are deterrent. Be sure to also rather than cable, is the best the outboard. lock the gas tank and especially ing fishermen or regular professionals, they’re mainly mainly or regular professionals, they’re ing fishermen to resell for motors, which are easy after the outboard found a dinghies are occasionally big bucks. Stolen ashore. Still, engineless, adrift or day or two later, a motor if just swipe a dink without someone might it’s an easy mark. JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 beneficial result. Keep apositiveattitudeandyouwillsail towarda course thismonth,especiallyinthethird week. steadying windonyourbusinessor financial doldrums; it’sonlytemporary. Don’t fretifbusinessorfinancialprojectsareinthe way iningeniousprojectsinvolvingwordplay. the 12th,sogiveityourbesteffortbeforethen. roiled waters,butthataspectwillsailawayafter your lovelife.Creativeverbalskillswillalsostill land ingoodplaces. so keepthosearrowsflyingandsomeareboundto the horizon. in thethirdweek,andwillbringbigpayoffsover sailing youtowardyourfinancialgoals,especially romance deteryou. ness atthistimeanddon’tletluffingsailsin 23rd, somakeasmuchwaypossibleinbusi- slack romanticsails. your verbalskillstobringnewwindsintothose you back. and don’tletcontrarycurrentsinbusinesshold by thethirdweek.Steertowardsyourdreams but itwilltakeself-disciplineforyoutoacton come throughintoclearskiesandcalmwaters. helm onacourseforbusinessmattersandyouwill romance dotheirbesttodistractyou.Keepthe the helmwhileflukywindsandchoppyseasin pared foropportunitiescomingyourwaysoon. decks togeteverythinginbalancesoyouarepre- on projectsaboard,organizingandclearingthe mately sailoutahead. third weekbutyouwilllearnfromthemandulti- might besomeroughseasinbusinessaroundthe traction willhelpyourcreativeprojects.There it willbeworthit. tion inirons.Progressmayneedmanytacks,but let backedsailsinyourlovelifeputimagina- 8th, soconcentrateonitspositiveenergyanddon’t Your friendlinessandsenseofhumorwill bethe Use renewedenergyinthesecondweektomake Use goodhumortosmoothanylumpyseasin You archersarerelativelyaspectfreethismonth, Your senseoffunwillbegreatassistancein Mars isinyoursignfromthe11ththrough This isagoodtimetosetcreativecourse.Use A greatideawillstepaboardinthesecondweek Your senseofhumorwillbethesteadyhandon The secondandthirdweeksaregoodforworking While romanceisinalull,nothavingthatdis- Inspiration willsailintoyourharboraroundthe JANUARY 2014 SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

parlumps marooned withNoodles Grooving Toned bodyandhappy never heart camesoeasily! Muscles where muscles never usedtobe; Pump itupwithanoodleandfindtoyour surprise To thelazy, hungover andmuch-too-macho guys: Being thoroughly wet isquitethenorm. It doesnotmattercomerainorstorm; We’ll allbetrilingualbefore we finish! Instructions inEnglish, French orSpanish— Encouraging eachotherwithcommentsthatamuse. Sharing adviceonhow andwhere tocruise, We’re smilingandchattinghaving fun, While we cycle, pushaway, salutethesun, Pump iron atthegym, rely onlotsofpills We don’t have tosweat andclimbupany hills, Lots ofgals, somegameguys, theodd kidorhound. It’s themonsternoodleget-fitgang, gatheringaround: Bathing-suited bodiesarmedwithcolourfulgear. Dinghies are a-moving, collectinghere andthere Hog Islandisinvaded by astrangenew set; Early inthemorningjustafterNet

—RuthLund

P Poets [email protected]

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JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware • Sharks prefer human Most sharks don’t appear • Sharks eat continu- Sharks eat periodically Shark Word Search When is a whale not a blood. PREPOSTEROUS! to be especially interested in the blood of mammals as opposed to fish blood. Most sharks prefer to eat certain types of inverte- brates, fish and other animals. Some sharks even eat microscopic plants and animals (plankton). ously. NOT! depending upon their dietary requirements and the availability of food. Puzzle whale? A tiger not a tiger? — See Salty’s Answers on page 41 • Sharks’ brains are the size of peanuts and they are• Sharks’ brains are the size complex brains are Sharks’ relatively large and incapable of learning. WRONG! of supposedly more comparable in size to those and birds. Sharks advanced animals like mammals among other things! can even be trained to WINK, And a bull not a bull? When they are sharks, of And a bull not a bull? When they are sharks, of course! Search for the 13 sharks listed below. Look across, down, diagonally and backwards. Some are BITING others! e-mail: [email protected] Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Fax: (758) 452 0311 means fin SALTY’S BEAT BY NATHALIE WARD BEAT BY NATHALIE SALTY’S

Pter means an ani- FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR Johnson Hardware Ltd. Carcharhinus melanopter- Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils is advised, however. In is advised, however. In melanopterus

is made up of the following pre- is made up of the following Caution means dark or black; than 350 shark species, only four have been involved in a significant number of fatal, unprovoked attacks on humans: the great white, oceanic whitetip, tiger, and bull sharks. Of all shark species, about 80 percent grow to less than 1.6 metres and are unable to hurt people or rarely encounter people. Every year around 100 shark attacks are reported worldwide. This number is far lower than the number of people killed each year by ele- phants, bees, crocodiles, lightning or many other natural dangers. addition to the four species responsible for a significant number of fatal attacks on humans, a number of other species have attacked humans without being provoked, and have on extremely rare occasions been respon- Tel: (758) 452 0299 Tel:

Melan

means nose; Carcharhinus melanopterus Rhin is an animal with a sharp nose and is an animal with a sharp

means sharp;

Carcharhinus , an animal’s scientific name is related to its common name: blacktip reef shark. , an animal’s scientific name • Most sharks are harmful to people. UNTRUE! to humans. Out of moreContrary to popular belief, only a few sharks are dangerous Mythical Monsters? terrifying, and cold-blooded. The popular image of sharks is that they are mysterious, is almost the exact Yet the reality of the lives and behaviors of these creatures Common Names Can Be Misleading Common names used for Unlike scientific names, common names are not unique. The science of processing and naming living organisms is taxonomy. Most taxono- The science of processing and So, Sharks are often classified according to their diet, body type, and their preferred according to their diet, body type, and their preferred Sharks are often classified Every recognized species on earth (at least in theory) is given a unique two-part earth (at least in theory) is given a unique two-part Every recognized species on

Carch Sharks: What’s In a Name? In What’s Sharks:

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

PROUDLY SPONSORED BY CONSERVATION: CONSERVATION: BY PROUDLY SPONSORED opposite of the myths that are told about them. Check out the myths. What is fact? opposite of the myths that are told about them. Check And what is fiction? the blacktip shark include blackfin shark, blacktip whaler, common or small black- the blacktip shark include blackfin shark, blacktip whaler, various common names for tip shark, grey shark, and spotfin ground shark. Using can result in confusion when the same species or the same name for different species use scientific names when discussing an individual organism. As a result, scientists they refer to living things. mal with dark or black fins. Sometimes, as is the case with mal with dark or black fins. us ought to reflect what we know about how organisms mists agree that classification changing as new evidence are related to each other. But what we know is constantly are controversies over what becomes available. Like all human undertakings, there just classifications that exactly we do know. There is no single correct classification, are currently accepted by most systematists. shortfin mako, hammerhead, sible for a human death. This group includes the blue sharks. These sharks are Galapagos, gray reef, blacktip reef, lemon, silky, and also large, powerful predators, which can be provoked simply by a person being in the water at the wrong time and place, but they are normally considered less dangerous to humans than the previous group. On the other hand, we kill somewhere between 20 million and 100 million sharks every year through fishing activities. or wing. climate. For example, scientific name. Scientific names are usually made up of Latin or Greek words, pre- scientific name. Scientific names The describe the appearance or behavior of the animal. fixes and suffixes, that often the animal’s relationship to other animals and may names also tell something about in the discovery of the animal or contain refer- name people who were instrumental species are found. ences to regions where the fixes and suffixes: JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 impressed. NDtooktheviewthatifhissonwasn’tgoodenoughforBritishArmy, undertakers: youmaynotlikethembutatonepointoranotherweallneedone. you couldputupyourshingleanywhereandpeoplewouldcome.Lawyersarelike name forhimself—andaliving.Withlawpracticeyouweren’tbeholdentoanyone, by Britishcivilservantsorlocalwhites. civil servicealsoofferedopportunities,butagain,alltheseniorpositionswerefilled had noplaceinbusiness,otherthantotakeordersandloadtrucks.Thecolonial Business andcommercewerethesolepreserveofbrownmiddleclass.Blacks the onlyguaranteedmeansofadvancement,ifyouhappenedtobebornblack. War, afteritwasalloverhewouldbeabletopursuehisdream:law. for Darwin—itwasachance.Hefiguredthatifheputinenoughserviceduringthe was nocertaintythatBritainwouldwintheWarinanycase.Thatgoodenough ship afterthewarwaswon.Notapromise,possibility,andinthosedarkdaysthere industry: freetechnicaltraining,aguaranteedjob,andthepossibilityofscholar- from thecolonieswereofferedinducementstogoandworkinBritisharmaments to defeatHitler.SoWhitehalldecidedtapitscoloniesformanpower.Youngmen business offighting. restricted tosupportroleslikelogistics,whilewhitesoldiersgotonwiththereal question —anyonewoulddo.Buteventhen,mostblacksoldiersfoundthemselves stock wasbeingannihilatedbytheNazis,Britishturnedablindeyetothat tion: “AreyouofpureEuropeanstock?”Lateron,whenalltheir riority hadtobemaintained.Ontheapplicationformyouanswerques- weren’t exactlywelcomedintotheBritisharmedforces.Warornowar,racialsupe- across Grenada,announcingthepurposeofthistroopship’svisit:men. warrant afullGovernor).Thenextday,thousandsofleafletsweredistributedall resplendent inhisfeatheredhatandceremonialsword(Grenadawastoosmallto and ceremonywiththeAdministratorofGrenada,CharlesHenryVincentTalbot, in Grenada.AsusualwithanyvisitingBritishnavalvessel,therewasmuchpomp a troopship,boundforBritain.Henearlynevergotthere Darwin Samuel,myfather,leftthesafeshoresofGrenadaon STORMY CROSSING charts. Fairtides! the tidefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon Despite allDarwin’sarguments,hisfather,NathanDennis(“ND”)Samuel,wasn’t But thelegalprofession,nowthatwaswhereamanofanycolourcouldmake In thecolonialCaribbeanof1930s,lawandmedicine—professionswere But Britainneededmen—ofanycolourtobuildthebombsandtanks In theearlydaysofSecondWorldWar,colouredchapsfromcolonies In November1941,aBritishtroopshipsailedintobeautifulSt.George’sHarbour In 1941,thedepthsofSecondWorldWar,19-year-old For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill 9 0210 0126 19 0042 18 0000 17 2357 16 2310 15 2222 14 2134 13 2046 12 1957 1904 11 1821 10 1733 9 1644 8 1554 7 1501 6 1405 5 1306 4 1204 3 2 1 DATE TIME January 2014 MERIDIAN PASSAGE JANUARY -FEBRUARY2014 (full moon) OF THEMOON by S.BrianSamuel 1848 1753 1704 7 1615 6 1524 5 1433 4 1339 3 2 1 February 2014 1243 1144 31 1044 30 0942 29 0841 28 0742 27 0627 26 0555 25 0506 24 0420 23 0336 22 0253 21 20 (new moon) 8 1121 1024 28 0926 27 0827 26 0728 25 0630 24 0535 23 0442 22 0352 21 0305 20 0220 19 0135 18 0052 17 0008 16 0000 15 2324 14 2240 13 2154 12 2107 2019 11 1931 10 9 8 CARIBBEAN MARITIMEHISTORY (full moon) . from here future… away off intoanuncertain Darwin washeading of 19.Thoseweredifferenttimes;youngpeoplegrewupmorequicklythen.Herewas to aforeignwar-tornland,withnofamilyorfriendsgreethim—atthetenderage from seasickness,U-boatsorotherwise.Hewasheadingoffintoanuncertainfuture, over thehorizon,youngDarwincouldnothavehelpedbutfeelbutterflies—whether delights offreshfoodandfemalecompany. rumoured thatGermansailorswouldoccasionallycomeashore,seekingthe teries astheysurfacedinthedesertedbaysofeasternGrenada.Itwaseven in thehillsofPerdmontemps,theywouldhearU-boatsre-chargingtheirbat- sengers losttheirlives.Ourfatherusedtotellusthatlateatnight,allthewayup wooden inter-islandschoonerswerenotsafe;manyWestIndiansailorsandpas- Britain, sometimeswithinsightoftheislandsorevenintheirharbours.Even British merchantshippingcarryingstrategiccargoesfromSouthAmericato placid CaribbeanSea,withdeadlyconsequences.U-boatswouldroutinelysink the farawayWestIndies,WarinEuropewasbeingwagedonandunder to getthere.In1941,nowherewassafefromtheGermanU-boatmenace;evenin when he’smadeuphismind.Darwinsignedup. the homeofcultureandlearning.NDgaveup,knowingyoucan’tstopayoungman reasoned Darwin,thosefactoriesare then whyshouldhegoandworkintheirfactoriesriskgettingbombed?Because, now, byorderofHisMajesty’sNavy,officiallybeencommandeered— captain: slingyourhook,belowdecks!Iftheywanteditofficially:berthhas and naturallighting.DadhisGrenadianfriendsweretoldclearlybytheship’s built ontothedeckofship,withportholesonallfoursides,plentyventilation Grenadians andimmediatelyclaimeditforthemselves.Itwasacomfortablecabin word ofwhattheHarlem“hepcats”weresayingtohim! Theater, homeoftheHarlemRenaissance1930s,andnotunderstanding a the world,citythatneversleeps.HetoldusofgoingtoworldfamousApollo tingent, travellingingroupsforsafety,totastethepleasuresofgreatestcity in head: unforgettable!” Terminal inManhattan’sWestSidewiththeEmpireStateBuildingloomingover- Verrazano NarrowsBridge,pasttheStatueofLiberty,dockingatHudsonRiver blankets; hewasn’tgoingtomissoutonthis! taking sightsondisplay—exceptforoneDarwinSamuel,huddledunderdozensof cold NewYork,noneofitspassengerscouldbeseenondecktotakeinthebreath- have yourfirstexperienceofcoldweather.Bythetimeshipdockedinafreezing thin-blooded passengers.Themid-Atlanticinmid-winteris northwards thetemperaturesteadilydropped,increasinglytraumatizingship’s the CaribbeanandheadedintoAtlanticOcean—inwinter.Asship as aSaturdaynightspecial. quick topullouttheirweaponofchoice:anOkapiratchetknife,otherwiseknown Jamaica, theJamaicanswerestillcausingtrouble,andinanyconflictthey officers wasmoresuccinct:slingyourhook,belowdecks!Evenaftertheysailedfrom geography, repliedthosesamepissed-offsmallislanders.Thereplyoftheship’s couldn’t theyhavethecomfortableberthsoccupiedbythemsmallislanders?Blame immediately startedcomplaining:theydidn’tlikethesleepingarrangements,why island. UntiltheyreachedJamaica—thenthetroublestarted!TheJamaicans pose andthemoodofboatheightenedasitgatheredmomentum,islandto up like-mindedyoungmenateveryport.Allthepassengerssharedacommonpur- leave homeandmakehisownwayintheworld—ordietrying. He couldnotdependonhisfatherforalivelihood;youngmanwasduty-boundto the oneopportunitythatpresenteditself,andourfathergrabbeditwithbothhands. cabin andallitsBritishoccupants,none ofwhomwereeverseenagain. ripped awayeverythingnotfirmlyaffixed totheship—includingourfather’sex- below deckstosurveythedamage.They foundtotheirhorrorthatthestormhad sailor’s prayer:thatthenexttorpedowould hitanothership,nottheirs! continue headfirstintothenextmonster wave.Plusofcoursetheperennialwartime of theshipundertonscascadingwater, theoldgirlwouldslowlyrightherselfand tened downandtiedtotheirbunks,prayingwithallmightthateach roll storms. As60-footwavessmasheddownontotheship,allsoulsonboardwerebat- Jamaicans. ButGodhasafunnywaywithrevenge. to gobelowdecksandseekoutwhateverroughberthstheycouldfind—behind the hook! Dadprotestedbutofcoursetonoavail;heandhisGrenadianshipmateshad As thetroopshipsailednorthwardsandGrenada’slushmountainsslowlyreceded Regardless oftheopportunitiesawaitinghiminEngland,firstallDarwinhad The officerstookonelookatthecabinoccupiedbyDarwinandfourother The shipstayedinNewYorkjustafewdays,enoughtimefortheCaribbeancon- He wroteonthebackofapostcard:“SailingintoNewYorkHarbor,under After JamaicatheshipheadedforNewYork.Theleftshelteredwatersof The shipleftGrenadaandsailednorthwest,stoppingatotherislandspicking Excerpted fromtheforthcomingbook The meekshallindeedinherittheberth! The followingmorningourshell-shocked, seasicksailorsgingerlyemergedfrom In themiddleofAtlantic,convoyranintoonefearedmid-winter away fromhere TheWhiteKnightBox . Andbesides,itwasEngland, by S.BrianSamuel. not thebestplaceto now sling your JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

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Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar G Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 Open 7 days 8:00am - 6:00pm or later! GRE & CANVAS • BEQUIA && CANVAS e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 e-mail: [email protected] VHF FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Water & Dockage available - new Services coming soon! Water & Dockage available - new Services Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE [email protected] 1 (784) 495 0235 VHF 68 [email protected] 1 (784) 495 BEQUIA MARINA Located opposite G.Y.E. Located opposite G.Y.E. Electric: 110V 30Amp

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and and Compass Dart , the chairman of Faith Brings Louise Mitchell Joseph of the Louise Mitchell Joseph of the After the canoe was safely installed that brought ashore the survivors of blackfish boat the Bequia Heritage Foundation and Deputy Director of Grenadines Affairs, Herman Belmar, spoke about the museum’s displays that, he pointed out, highlight Bequia’s two longstand- ing and historically important activities — boatbuilding and whaling. A list of over 60 ships built in Bequia, mostly sloops and schooners, is one of the exhibits. between the whaleboat CORNELIA BREWER Couloura by Pat Mitchell arrives at the shore, destined for the Bequia Boat Museum , en route to Dart Couloura

, was towed by rubber dinghy to the waiting crowd under the Almond Tree, , was towed by rubber dinghy to the waiting crowd under

Although the Bequia Boat Museum is a work in progress, readers of Hopefully new funding will allow more much-needed facilities to be built, as well To reach the Bequia Boat Museum at Friendship Bay from Admiralty Bay, take the The trustees are aware that much work needs to be done to make the museum The French ambassador spoke of how the water can divide but also how it conjoins The French ambassador spoke of how the water can divide So how to get this canoe the hundred miles or so to from Martinique to Bequia? So how to get this canoe the hundred miles or so to from Truchot, and Louise The Honorary French Consul in St. Vincent, Dr. François But the canoe was needed, partly to show how Bequia’s first inhabitants reached partly to show how Bequia’s first inhabitants reached But the canoe was needed, The logistics of getting a 35-foot replica Amerindian dugout canoe from Martinique replica Amerindian dugout canoe from Martinique The logistics of getting a 35-foot

The dugout Dugout Canoe to Bequia Canoe Dugout as regular staffing. Donations from the general public and from organizations will be most gratefully received. Interested persons may contact Herman Belmar in the Bequia Administrative Offices, (784) 458-3510, or Pat Mitchell at the Gingerbread Hotel, (784) 458-3800. main road westward out of Port Elizabeth and turn left when you reach the hilltop where you can first view Friendship Bay. Take this road in a southeasterly direction up behind the old Friendship Bay Hotel, and when it divides, take the road slightly dipping down towards the sea (but not to the sea) but then straight on northeasterly towards St. Hillary Point. If anchored in Friendship Bay, pull your dinghy up on the beach if surf permits, and proceed past the old Friendship Bay Hotel as above. Visitors should note that most of the displays at the museum can be appreciated even when the building is closed, thanks to the open gallery that surrounds three sides. fully viable, but they agreed that, with the impetus resulting from the arrival of the canoe, and with the establishment of a coherent exhibit in place, the way forward is becoming clearer for Bequia’s newest educational and historical experience. National Trust described the combined effort that brought the canoe to Bequia. Pat Mitchell thanked the donors, all from the private sector, who were responsible for financing the museum building. Visitors at the reception admired architect Thomas Dehen’s design of the structure, and studied with interest the informative printed signs that accompany each exhibit. should find it a worthwhile visit even now. Try to choose a clear day when the view from on high above Friendship Bay is spectacular. The whaleboat the museum many months ago a slave ship that sank off Bequia in the late 17th century. These unusually freed a slave ship that sank off Bequia in the late 17th century. known as the Garifuna. The Africans were taken to the mainland and became Minister urged all Vincentians to visit the new museum. our Caribbean islands. The Minister of Foreign Affairs of SVG pointed out that his- our Caribbean islands. The Minister of Foreign Affairs torically it was canoes similar to the Mitchell Joseph, chairperson of the St. Vincent & the Grenadines National Trust, Mitchell Joseph, chairperson of the St. Vincent & the of the French Navy. On came up with the daring idea of requesting the assistance Bay. The dugout canoe, November 14th a French frigate anchored in Admiralty Couloura His Excellency Eric de la which included the ambassador of France to the OECS, of St. Vincent & the Moussaye, and the Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Government the former Prime Minister, Sir Grenadines, The Hon. Camillo Gonsalves, as well as Grenadines, Dr. Godwin James Mitchell, and the representative for the Northern Heritage Foundation — the Friday, and some rather nervous trustees of the Bequia been in a few minds. But horror of the canoe sinking on the way ashore must have hands of local youths from the of course the French Navy delivered it safely into the their light green shirts, who Bequia Traditional Sailing Academy, resplendent in island to St. Hillary Point lifted the canoe onto the waiting trailer for the trip across on the easterly side of Friendship Bay. our shores, which we know they did from extensive pottery finds, and partly to illus- our shores, which we know the hollowed-out-log style canoe and the more trate the vast difference between the that have reigned on the island from the time recent sprit-sailed double-enders these waters and some enterprising Bequia men pur- American whaling ships plied ship’s tenders. This two–bowed design proved bril- chased a couple of the mother the waters, and was useful not just for whaling but for liantly maneuverable in local late which kept Bequians alive in the lean years of the important fishing industry the 20th century. 19th century and well into to Bequia were daunting. Towing it would have demolished it. No hardy soul volun- to Bequia were daunting. Towing among the trustees of the Bequia Heritage Foundation teered to paddle it, even from it in the new Bequia Boat Museum at Friendship Bay. who were hoping to install FRENCH NAVY FRENCH JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 but Mr.Browne’sstoriesmanageadmirablyandarehighlyrecommended. out forthecontest. has prepared,andnotvomit!Theconclusionishilariousastheentirevillageturns “taste” wherebytheyeachhavetoeatfivedifferentfruitsandone“meat”theother ers aninterloperinhisspot.“WalkbackCharlie”challengeshimtoaduelofsorts: a eats localfruit,whichhesellstoanearbyvillageonSundays.OneSundaydiscov- Emancipation andlivesinthemountainousbush.Hebuildsabambooshack and owning landfromtheeyesof25-year-oldJoelMorgan.Morganleavesestateafter Emancipation fromBritain,itdescribesthepovertyofslaverylifeandhope officer, somethingthatwillallowhimtowearacrisp,newone. and suggeststhatheshouldgetajoblocallyaspoliceman,fireman,orcustoms twist, shethawsoutwhenseeshiminhisuniform(asaguardonBritishRail) want totouchher.CaressingandhuggingarerevoltingInanimprobable rified thatherhusbandisreturningfromEnglandafter12years,andhemight for nearlyeverysong.Forvariationtheyplayitfastorslowly,“mellow.” of thestoryreferstomusician’schordpattern(1st,5th,1st,7th)thatbanduses instruments likethewoodencylinder is myfavoriteintheentirebook,asvarietyofentertainers,somewithhomemade first halfisbyfarmoreentertaining.Thescenewherethevillagersauditionforband younger woman.Theauthorskillfullyweavesthesetwostrandstogether,thoughthe is aboutawoman’squesttoformlocalband,andman’scourtmuch rents ofvillagelifethatarerecognizableasinescapablefact.“First,Second,First,Third” ends, “Hehadtime,hewaspreparedtowait.” resolve isstrongandafterthreeyearsofhelpingRuthlynherbaby,thestory months ofcourtship,Archiehadonlyreceivedonekissonthecheek.ButArchie’s present. Tocompoundhiserror,sheispregnantwithanotherman’schild.Inall returns hefindsoutthathaserredterriblybybuyingRuthlynaninappropriate swashbuckling fun.Thetruthisverydifferent,asArchiediscovers,andwhenhe his heroes,FitzroyandDennis,whoalwaysreturnwithwalletsfullstoriesof and hisattractiontoRuthlyn.ArchiedreamsofgoingAmericapickappleslike seems tobeatestamentthat;itringstruethereader. but theyactuallymeantalottoeachotherandwillneverforgetit.Thestory to him.Theypartwiththerealizationthatlifemaypullthemindifferentdirections, SVG don’tgetsick.”ShetellsChrissythatsheishisfriendanditcomesasasurprise him, “Themedicine’snotselling,she’slosingmoney.Shesaysitlookslikepeoplein when heisdevastatedtofindoutshetransferringattheterm’send.Bettytells undercurrent runningbetweenthemwhichChrissyrejectsuntilthefinalscene ous andresentfulthatallhismatesfallforher.Thereisanundisclosedsexual and isfriendly,verysmart,attractive,sophisticated.Chrissyimmediatelyjeal- who isdriventoschoolinaLandRover.BettyhastraveledallovertheCaribbean made readyfortheirreturn.” cleared ofstones,mud,bananastalksandcoconutbranches,theclassrooms answered andtheywouldbesenthomeforthreedaysuntiltheschoolyardhadbeen flood thecrumblingconcretebuilding.Onceortwiceayeartheirprayerswouldbe away. Duringtherainyseasonpupilsprayedthatitwouldoverflowitsbankand 123 pages,ISBN978-1848762-794. Sweet Collection A Conciseand BOOK REVIEWBYBOBBERLINGHOF Y WHALE HELP HUMPBACK MIGRATION TRACK INTERESTED Caribbeanfrom the are cr region Available atAmazon.comandbookstoresinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines. It isafinelinetowalkseparatingnostalgiafromover-sentimentalityandcliché, The finalstory,“TasteforFreedom” “Action Action”isthepeculiartaleofafrigid,hardworkingseamstresswhohor- “Spanish Ladies”isthecollection’sonlytaleoftragedyandrevenge,twoundercur- “Take forTwo”isthetaleofArchie,ashy,self-sufficient,butlonelyyoungman, Chrissy’s lifeischangedbythetransferofapharmacist’sdaughter,BettyLaban, These sixshortstoriesbyCecilBrowne,awriterfromSt.Vincent,offerthereader The MoonisFollowingMe our contributions p our contributions of tail fluke in Helping? Go to Go in Helping? on itswaythroughthebananafieldtoseaamile ment camefromastreamthattrickledpasttheschool neighboring schoolseemexotic.“Theonlyrealexcite- nary villagethattheteachersandhappeningsof may beadjacenttoawindwardtown. tion becauseavillageontheleewardsideofisland stories resonatewhilestillmaintainingtheauraoffic- lages weresimplyirresistible.”Byusingrealnames,the with thegeographyofislands:namesvil- this isexplainedintheforeword:“Ihavetakenliberties this collectionmaybeconfusingforVincentians,but tersweet taleoffirstlove.Thetownnamesthroughout and sweetcollection. be commendedforhisinsightfulsummationofaconcise naïve: theyhaveuniversalappeal.”Mr.Browneshould are ‘real’people,individual,ambitious,mad,vengeful, are “nostalgic,notsentimental,”andconcludes,“These 1960s and’70s.Intheforeword,authornotesthey a vividreconstructionofsmallislandvillagelifeinthe The protagonist,ChrissyBlack,issoboredbyhisordi- The titlestoryissetinSansSouciSchoolandabit- , byCecilBrowne,©2009,Matador.Paperback, baha , hotographs ofhumpback whales itical for conservation efforts. itical forconservation wasmyfavorite.Setjustbeforeandafter www. , are described with loving detail. The title , aredescribedwithlovingdetail.Thetitle CARIB TAILS.org JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4 FIGURE 5

Jim Ulik is a photographer and cruiser currently photographer and cruiser Jim Ulik is a Position of Jupiter and the Moon at 1900 hours The position of the Moon and Saturn at 0200 hours unless otherwise noted. The times are based on the noted. The times are unless otherwise by only a in Grenada and may vary viewing position different Caribbean locations. few minutes in based in Grenada. The Quadrantids will appear to radiate outward from The Quadrantids will appear the constellation Bootes Jupiter at 100-percent illumination and the position of its Moons at 1944 hours average Mérengue’s over these many years. – Full “Wolf” Moon – Venus passes between - New Moon. – The Moon and Saturn – Moon and Jupiter - Comet ISON – Jupiter at Opposition Caribbean Compass The Earth reaches the point along its elliptical orbitThe Earth reaches the point Sunday, January 5th side of the Earth from Jupiter will be on the opposite Saturday, January 11th five degrees of the Well actually it will pass within Also, over the next week Venus will make its transi- Sunday, January 12th This is the date the Earth was to travel through Tuesday, January 14th *All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) The Moon and Jupiter are going to pair up tonight. Wednesday, January 16th This will be the second New Moon of the month. In conclusion, I would like to thank Scott Welty for It must be time for another Full Moon dinghy drift. It must be time for another Full Moon dinghy drift. Saturday, January 25th Now the Moon and Saturn are on a rendezvous. They Thursday, January 30th that is closest to the Sun. It might be a good day to takethat is closest to the Sun. It will appear larger in thein the sunrise because the Sun and time of Earth’s clos- sky. Sunrise is at 0631 hours is 0759 hours. Theest approach to the Sun (perihelion) during this periodEarth will receive more radiation Sun. The southern oceansbecause it is closer to the radiation.will absorb most of the extra will also be at its closest the Sun (opposition). Jupiter illuminated by the Sun. approach to Earth and fully find Jupiter in the eastern Grab a pair of binoculars, one of Jupiter’s Moons sky and maybe you can spot both above and below the planet. the Earth and Sun Venus won’t occur until Sun. The next transit of see, at December 11th, 2117. Let’s speed and if I set sail soon, I could almost make it to Tahiti in time for the event! tion from being an evening planet to a morning planet. ISON’s debris field. Scientists are continuing to study the remnants of ISON. Will there be a meteor shower? Stay tuned. Unfortunately, Scott may not be able to enjoy the night skies he wrote about because of the amount of light pollution in his current residence of Chicago, Illinois. His viewing will have to be relegated to the Adler Planetarium. Or, Scott, how about Yerkes Observatory in Lake Geneva, Wisconsin? The Moon will rise at 1656 hours and Jupiter will follow at 1711 hours, appearing slightly below and left of the Moon. Jupiter will still be at 100-percent illumination. Tomorrow they will go their separate ways again. Well the second Full Moon is called a Blue Moon. Is anyone surprised that the second New Moon is called a Black Moon? bringing an interesting and informative column to the readers of Bring your drinks and maybe appetizers to share. Bring your drinks and maybe appetizers to share. The Moon reached its farthest point from Earth in its orbit on the 15th. So even though the Moon is full today it will appear slightly smaller and dimmer than usual. The January Full Moon is sometimes referred to as the “Wolf” Moon. It was named by Native Americans listening to the wolves howl out- side of their villages at night. will be visible in the constellation of Libra after mid- night. The Moonrise will be at 0105 hours and Saturn will make an appearance shortly after at 0122 hours. -

THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN FIGURE 1 - New Moon - The Earth at perihelion

Wednesday, January 1st Thursday and Friday, January 2nd and 3rd When ISON reached the Sun it was three miles wide The Moon will be directly between the Earth and Saturday, January 4th Between the evening of January 2nd and the pre- For some, Armageddon will have to wait because For some, Armageddon will The Holidays may be over but the night sky, during The Holidays may be over ISON’s path as it rounded the Sun and its atmosphere (coma) was the size of the United and its atmosphere (coma) was the size of the United States. At that time ISON was traveling at 845,000 mph (1,359,895 km/h). After ISON rounded the Sun the comet broke apart and its speed reduced to 206,000 mph (331,516 km/h) and continues to slow. the Sun. This phase occurs at 1114 UTC or 0714 hours AST*. travels through our solar system. There are at least 28 travels through our solar system. There are at least 28 near-Earth objects in January alone! Well, the Earth didn’t end so I suppose I need to resume paying those holiday bills? Wait, is Earth going to pass through ISON’s debris field? For others, except scientists, the interest in the “Comet of the Century” will have to be postponed until another comet makes an appearance. dawn sky of the 3rd will be the time to look for this dawn sky of the 3rd will be the time to look for this meteor shower. The Moon will not obstruct viewing because it is going to set at 1924 hours. There could be up to 80 meteors per hour! Have a few cups of coffee and stay up or set the alarm for 0200 hours. Find Bootes in the northeast then look 90 degrees away from that constellation. That’s where the brightest meteors will be because the meteors radiate out from Bootes. Quadrantids Meteor Shower Comet ISON couldn’t survive the solar storm. All the Comet ISON couldn’t survive that people attributed to “End of the Earth” prophecies to the next comet that Comet ISON will have to apply the first two weeks of January, may offer up a few gifts the first two weeks of January, ISON. What happened even with the demise of Comet Century”, as it passed the to ISON, the “Comet of the a debris field of meteors? Sun? Did it leave behind Many questions still remain. by Jim Ulik by Jim The Sky in January 2014 January Sky in The JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 [email protected] www.marigotbeachclub.com are accepted. for restaurants, hotels, villasorsimply toenjoy athome Provisioning for yacht charters, largeorsmall orders multi grainbreads, croissants, etc. lamb, steaks, frozen bread suchasbaguettes, petitpain, Seafood, shrimp, prawns, smoked &fresh salmon, fish, exotic meats, salami, turkey, prosciutto, juices, etc. We cheese, offer anexcellent selectionofimported CALLIAQUA, ST. VINCENT Tel: 456-2983orFax: 456-2987 [email protected] WE ARE SITUATED IN Ocar, Downstairs Coco’s ALSO INBEQUIA or you cancallusat Tel: 458-3485

GO GREEN: finger-sized used. Thereisalsothesmall,sweet giant greenfig,arethemostcommonly bananas”, rather thaneatingwhenripe.“Cooking types ofbananaspreferredforcooking addition toplantains,thereareafew market andstreet-sideveggiestall.In are availableinalmosteveryCaribbean Mediterranean fruitofthesamename), “figs” (andhavingnothingtodowiththe dish. Greenbananas,commonlycalled tious meals,oftenmakingatastyside cal stapleusedindeliciousandnutri- cooked unripebananasareaneconomi- yellow form.ButintheCaribbean, be thecrustofaShepherd’sPie. ble topotatosalads.Crushedtheycan are alsousedtomakesalads,compara- soups andstews.Boiledgreenbananas is withsaltfish,fishormeat,addedto mon waytoserveboiledgreenbananas a widevarietyofdishes.Themostcom- peeled, thebananapiecescanbeusedin an un-reactivepot.Onceboiledand easier topeelafterboiling.Boilthemin ping offbothends,astheyaremuch first boilthemintheirskinsaftersnip- with vitaminsandminerals. are ahealthy,quick-energyfoodpacked twice adayastheydevelop. a photoofthebananaseverydayor tography, anicefamilyprojectistotake gravity! Withtheadventofdigitalpho- upward againstthenaturalforceof the sunripensthem,theybegintoturn develop verticallyaroundthestem.As bananas growdownward.Doublerows ripen isascientificmystery.Little green bananas.Exactlyhowbananas of smallflowers,whichbecometiny, purple partspullbacktorevealclusters called bracts.Asthestemgrows, The budconsistsofsmallpurpleleaves from thecenterofbundleleaves. center leafandthenalargebudrises bear fruititshootsupadifferent,bigger as itgrows.Whentheplantisaboutto to 30feet. the plantsmaturetoaheightofaboutfive three tofourweeks.Inaboutninemonths separated, replantedsuckerssproutin separated fromthestalk.Oncedugand will growrightthereintoanewtreeifnot tree andprotrudethroughthesoil Suckers oreyesgrowatthebaseof from thestemsofmaturebananaplants. (called suckers,slips,eyes,orratoons) Farmers startacropbycuttinggrowths and Guatemala. Rica, Colombia,Honduras,Panama, Major exportersincludeEcuador,Costa ly minimumof31/2inchesrainfall. degrees Fahrenheit(27°C)andamonth- with anaveragetemperatureof80 live formonthsifkeptmoist. distant portsbecausethesuckerscan were theperfectcroptocarrybyship food inmanypartsoftheworld.Bananas quickly, thebananabecameanessential Hemisphere. Sincebananasmultiply the plantstotropicalpartsofWestern Tomas deBerlanga,whoin1516carried given toaSpanishmissionary,Friar built SantoDomingo.Creditisusually ing themgrowingin1504whenthey there isareferenceoftheSpanishfind- brought plantainstoHispaniolabecause Perhaps Columbusoraclosefollower first transplantedtotheCanaryIslands. along theAtlanticcoastofAfricaand Caribbean werefoundbythePortuguese Most ofusknowthebananainitsripe, 1 Tablespoonvegetableoil 1 Tablespoonsalt 4 Cupswater 2 handsorfourpoundsgreenbananas Boiled andFriedGreenBananas One tricktousinggreenbananasis Bananas notonlytastegood,butalso The bananaisveryinterestingtowatch Bananas donotgrowsimplyfromseed. Bananas thriveinthehottropics, The bananaswehavethroughoutthe Try Unripe Bananas! GREEN lacatan THE SPICELOCKERBYSHIRLEYHALL sucrier , andregularorshort .

greenbananas fridge untilserving. all otheringredients.Mixandstorein thick pieces.Placepiecesinabowlwith and cutbananasintoquarter-inch- for 20minutes.Drainandcool.Peel salt. Bringtoaboilovermediumheat adequate potputwater,bananas,and (lightpreferred) Caribbean HomeGardenHandbook. rice orroti. longer toabsorbtheflavor.Servewith and letsitforanotherfiveminutesor utes. Sprinklewithchadonbene.Cover cumin, andstir.Cookforfivemoremin- stirring for20minutes.Uncover,add cover, andletsimmerwithoccasional remaining waterandstir.Reduceheat, starts tostickthefryingpanadd pieces arecoatedwiththecurry.Whenit slices andsalt.Stiruntilthebanana When itstartstoexpandaddthebanana three Tablespoonswatertothismixture. add currypowder,onion,andgarlic.Add inch pieces.Inafryingpanheatoiland lifted off. tinue doingthisuntilalltheskinhas made, lifttheskinasyougoalong,con- and movingitalongthecutsyoujust intervals alongthefig,useyourthumb, the way,dothisataboutonehalfinch making aonequarterinchincisionall sharp knifealongthelengthoffig, method: oilyourfingers,runthetipofa Rahamut recommendsthefollowing bananas, TrinidadianchefWendy NOT boiledfirst.Topeelrawgreen bowl andsprinklewithchives. heated through.Removetoaserving and cookuntilalliswellcoated transparent. Addgreenbananapieces and pimento.Cookuntilonionbecomes Heat oilinaskilletandaddonion,garlic, long wayandthenslicethatintohalf. cool. Peelandcutbananasinhalfthe medium heatfor25minutes.Drainand a boil.Addgreenbananasandboilover In asuitablepot,bringwaterwithsaltto bly red),seededandchopped 1/2 teaspoongroundcumin( 1 Cupwater saltandpeppertotaste 3 clovesofgarlic,minced 1/2 mediumonion,choppedsmall 1/2 Tablespooncurrypowder 1 Tablespoonvegetableoil 1 handortwopounds Curried GreenFig Cut endsoffthegreenbananas.Inan 1/2 Tablespoonsalt 2 Tablespoonsmayonnaise 1 Tablespooncucumberrelish quarterinchthick Shirley Hallistheauthorof Peel greenbananasandcutintohalf- In thisrecipe,thegreenbananasare choppedveryfinely 3 leaveschadonbeneorcilantro, / no diced onion 1/2 2 hard boiled eggs, shelled and sliced a 2 hardboiledeggs,shelledandsliceda choppedsmall 1 stalkcelery(imported dicedsmall 1 onion(purpleSpanishpreferred), 1 carrot,grated 4water cups 1 handortwopoundsgreenbananas Green FigSalad Wash bananasandchopoffbothends. chives forgarnish 2 seasoningpimentopeppers(prefera- 4 clovesgarlic,minced 1/2 onion,diced preferred), jeera The New )

JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

): bold The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Office Coffee Shop (Ile Marine) at any of these locations at any of these Readers! When in St. Maarten/ Readers! When Liquor Store Customs Office Simpson Bay Marina Simpson Bay Yacht Club Budget Marine Island Water World Lagoon Marina Lagoon Marina Megayard Boatyard St. Maarten Sails Island Water World Captain Oliver’s Dinghy Dock Bar Boat Paint and Stuff Budget Marine Island Water World Marina Fort Louis Marina Port la Royale Polypat Boat Yard Compass Caribbean Compass Ahoy, SIMPSON BAY COLE BAY PHILIPSBURG OYSTER POND MARIGOT PICK UP! PICK Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. St. Martin, pick up your free monthly copy of up your free monthly copy St. Martin, pick the (advertisers in this issue appear in (advertisers in

in Marin — , and to boat hitchers for bringing us these to noon | Located downstairs Gingerbread Hotel on the Belmont Walkway Located downstairs Gingerbread Hotel on the Belmont Walkway | to noon Matira AM Compass Caribbean Compass this week while we were in St. Croix. , , , Sun 9 PM Rainbow for all Tastes and Budgets to 6 Compass Compass AM Kidnappings are also a serious concern throughout are also a serious concern Kidnappings of their surroundings US citizens should be vigilant on staying safe in For more detailed information NEW VOICES Just flown back to Martinique from Brittany and I’m talking about the excellent and enjoyable articles And thank you ARE GUNS THE ANSWER? Lynn Kaak and Ken Goodings’ December article ana- My husband, Jim Hutchins, and I met Tina and sive, both in the capital, Caracas, and in the interior. capital, Caracas, and in sive, both in the organization the non-governmental According to were 21,692 Observatory, there Venezuelan Violence to a rate Venezuela in 2012, amounting homicides in among the per 100,000 inhabitants, of 73 homicides world. highest in the were reported 2012, 583 kidnappings the country. In 80 per- It is estimated that roughly to the authorities. meaning the go unreported, cent of kidnappings in 2012 is likely much actual number of kidnappings are increasingly involved in higher. Common criminals with victims’ families kidnappings, either dealing to terrorist groups. directly or selling the victims Whenever possible, at all times and in all locations… in groups of two or more US citizens should travel and carrying large persons; avoid wearing jewelry cash, ATM/credit cards, sums of money or displaying and avoid walking mobile phones, or other valuables; or walking alone at night in most areas of Venezuela and trails. Incidents of on beaches, historic ruins, including carjacking and crime along inter-city roads, in Venezuela. Motorists kidnapping, are common and always drive with should avoid traveling at night robberies at traffic their doors locked to deter potential streets. lights and on congested city Department’s Country Venezuela, please see the State latest security informa- Specific Information. For the tion, US citizens traveling abroad should regularly monitor the Bureau of Consular Affairs’ internet website, where the current Worldwide Caution, Travel Warnings, and Travel Alerts can be found. Follow us on Twitter and the Bureau of Consular Affairs page on Facebook as well. You can also download our free Smart Traveler App, available through the iTunes store and the Google Play store. Dear found October’s They are relieved to be back in their home waters. Understandably, they have equipped their boat with lights and bars to discourage would-be boarders. —Continued on next page another interesting number with some new voices! “Hitching the Wind” by Francisco Pedro and also “Panama Canal Transit: The Little Boat that Could!” by Di Kilbride. Not the sort of voices we hear too often in this high-tech electronic age! More’s the pity, because isn’t this the real spirit of adventure behind all our travels and voyages? We may become blasé as our up- to-date machines speed from island to island, or we may choose to linger and enjoy a particularly interesting port or pretty anchorage, but people who voyage in spite of inadequate means deserve our admiration — so bravo to those aboard everywhere. unusual stories of adventure. Jeremy Hobday S/V Tchin Martinique Dear lyzing the viability of flare guns was a fun and unsur- prising read. I hope readers drew the conclusion: Guns are not the answer. Mark of

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' Compass . S have told us that they recently R E M , Chaser2 U D A R Compass E O Editor’s note: The letter below from the US State I read the articles about cruising in Venezuela in the I read the articles about cruising VENEZUELAN CAUTIONS [ Tens of thousands of US citizens safely visit Venezuela The Department of State has issued this Travel The folks on As always, we urge any cruisers considering going to Subject: Venezuela Travel Warning, November FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' September 2013 issue of Dear Department has been edited for length, deleting, for Department has been edited for length, deleting, for example, information pertinent only to US government personnel. Lest one think the US is being especially paranoid, see recommendations from Australia at www. smartraveller.gov.au/zw-cgi/view/Advice/Venezuela: “We continue to advise Australians to exercise a high degree of caution in Venezuela because of high levels of serious crime and ongoing political uncertainty.” As we mentioned in our September 2013 issue (www.caribbeancompass.com/online/september13compass_ online.pdf), available statistics indicate that the rate of violent physical assault against cruisers is more than three times higher in Venezuela than in all the Lesser Antilles islands combined each year for study, tourism, business, and volunteer work. However, violent crime in Venezuela is perva- years there, departing finally in 2009, I believe that years there, departing finally in 2009, I believe that just because a handful of foolhardy folks were able to sail the area without being harmed proves little about security in the region. I forward this letter from the State Department I just received. Michael Rosner S/V Panda Republic of Panama Warning to inform US citizens about the security situation in Venezuela. or through Venezuela to examine the safety situation for or through Venezuela to examine the safety situation for their proposed route and destination very carefully. 22, 2013 enjoyed an event-free cruise from Curaçao to Puerto La enjoyed an event-free cruise from Curaçao to Puerto La Cruz, but on the other hand, the couple aboard were boarded, beaten and robbed while attempting to sail from Trinidad to Puerto La Cruz (see news item on page 5). Regarding Puerto La Cruz itself, cruisers there report that goods and services are cheap, but also see this report: www.safetyandsecuritynet.com/venezuela- bad-luck-or-bad-choice. JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, McIntyre Bros.Ltd. Bobby's MarinaAirport,AirportRoad32,St.MaartenN.A. +1-201-825-1400 DIESEL OUTFITTERS [email protected] boatbladders.com MADE IN MADE PROUDLY Ramsey, NJUSA Space Saving > AUTHORISED DEALERSHIP > TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL Marine andIndustrialGenerators Simply Unfold & Fill with Std. Nozzle Std. with Fill & Unfold Simply Overhauls, RepairsandService 50, 100, 150, 200, 250, 300 & 500 Gal. 500 & 300 250, 200, 150, 100, 50, AND WARRANTYWORK Gasoline and Diesel Compatible Diesel and Gasoline Suppliers ofDonaldsonFilters Available in 7 Convenient Sizes Convenient 7 in Available email: [email protected] PHONE: (473)4443944/1555 DESIGN Servicing allGearboxes Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Parts, SalesandService Marine Engineers Duty-Free EnginesforYachts Fuel InjectorService to allDieselEngines FAX: (473)4442899 Cel:+17215564967 Fax: +17215452889 Parts -RepairsService Accessible bydinghy New address: ® Always In Stock! ORDER NOW! EXTENDER RANGE N.V. — Dear S/V BoldlyGo Ellen Birrell Best regards, works inHollywoodmoviesandcomicstrips. on theoffensiveagainstperpetratorsisfoolhardy.It attractive targetareworthydefenses.Theideaofgoing removed) andmanagingyourboattomakeitaless there issolidevidencethattheperpetratorshavebeen nately notwithourlives. ourselves tobecometargetsandpaiddearly,fortu- mainland (wewere40milesoffshore).Weallowed responsibility forgoingtooclosetotheVenezuelan because weremainedcalmandcooperative.Wetake resulted. Webelievewesurvivedthepiracyincident people wereshot,afightensuedand/orinjuries all caseswheretheyachtpersondrewaguntheirown your crew.Documentationavailablesupportsthatin assailant haswillbeimmediatelyusedonyouand/or feet ortwoawaymeansthatwhateverweaponthe violence. Thesillinessofraisingaflaregunwhether20 As soonasyouraiseagun,provokeimmediate are convincedthatgunsofanysortnottheanswer. researched thestatisticalrecordsourcesavailable,we Dear Habana, Cuba Club NáuticoInternacionalHemingway Commodore JoséMiguelDíazEscrich people deserve. believe thatitcancontributetotheprosperityour tical Paradisewithanimmensepotential,wefirmly waters. BecauseitsharesourvisionofCubaasanau- siasm todevelopthenauticaltourisminCuban strive withverymodestresourcesbutplentyofenthu- that allowatrulyenjoyablecruise... navigation ofpleasure,byproposingsailingstretches opinion, thespiritthatonefeelswhenplanningareal places unspoiledbymodernlife. natural beauty,peace,harmonyandsimplicityof and JardinesdeLaReina,aswelltoenjoythe heart ofArchipelagodeLosColorados,Canarreos has motivatedmetoundertakethejourney tation greaterthaninothersimilarpublicationsandit anchorages. graphs illustratingthecoastline,cays,marinasand eraries orrecommendedstretchesofcoastandphoto- detailed nauticalcharts,butalsofortheproposeditin- ful andinteresting,notjustfortheinclusionof trip alongtheCubancoast,Ithinkthatitisveryuse- nation. as relevantpassagesfromthehistoryofCuban ple’s lifeandthenaturalbeautiesofisland,aswell tographs reflectimportantaspectsoftheCubanpeo- esting andwidelyillustratedofall.Theexcellentpho- the ClubNáutico,thisworkis,byfar,mostinter- guides publishedtodateandinourpossessionat issue of Amaia AgirreandFrankVirgintinointheDecember lounge underagoldensun,luncheonpartiesenjoy Caribbean destinations.Oiledandtannedbodies Gustavia, SaintBarth’s.Itisoneofourfavored PRAISE FORCUBAGUIDE Staying awayfromknownareasofviolence(unless Having experiencedpiracyfirsthandandhaving A CARIBBEAN‘AESOP’SFABLE’ This newguidewillassistandsupportallofuswho Another contributionofthiscruisingguideis,inmy As IwasreviewingtheGuide,feltasenseoforien- Regarding theinformationprovidedforplanning Regarding thereviewof We havereturnedtocharmingShellBeachin Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass Caribbean Compass , , A CruisingGuidetoCuba , amongallthecruising

, by WWW.STEFANKOSTUDIO.COM be editedforlength,clarityandfairplay. Please keeplettersshorterthan600words.Lettersmay name maybewithheldfromprintatyourrequest. We donotpublishanonymousletters;however,your individual regattaresultscomplaints.(Kudosareokay!) e-mail) ifclarificationisrequired. address, andawaywecancontactyou(preferablyby Culebra, PuertoRico Woody Young know anythingaboutthat?” yesterday, therehewas—backinhiscage.Wouldyou ied himinthebackyardbutwhenwecamehome Elvis, ouriguana?Wellhediedlastweekandwebur- thing happenedwhileweweregone.Youremember time withsomefriendsoverthere.Butthestrangest “It wasawonderfulsailovertoCoralBay.Hadgreat replied innocently,“Howdidthesailinggo?”Billsaid, the boatyardwhenBillcalled,“Goodmorning!”I Monday morningIwasoutgettinginmycartogo in hiscage,justlikenothinghadeverhappened. We washedElvisoffwiththehoseandputhimback here; youarenotgonnabelievethis.” “Honey, areyoualright?”Imuttered,“Pleasecomeout God, OhmyGod.”Thewifeheardmeandcalledout, marks orwoundsonhim.AllIcouldsaywas,“Ohmy and verydead,buttheredidn’tseemtobeanyteeth dropped himatmyfeet.Elviswascoveredwithdirt standing there,withElvisinhismouth.Heproudly disappeared. AftersometimeIlookeduptoseehim bed. Tosomepeoplethisiswork;tomeit’stherapy. stayed outsideandpulledsomeweedsfromtheflower- Sunday. IdecidedtoletSnowBallrunloosewhile their boatoutfortheweekendandwouldbebacklate back. Infact,BillandNancetoldustheyweretaking and gentletradewinds,awfuleasytojustkick decided totakeSundayoff.Itwassunshine,blueskies grinding bottompaintandrepairingblisters,thatwe guess hewasbeautifulinanuglysortofway. their backyard.Elviswasprideandjoy,I They alsohadalargeiguananamedElvisincage sloop onamooringattheYachtClubinCowpetBay. lived nextdoorandwerealsoboaters,havinga32-foot backyard andniceneighborstoboot.BillNance As itturnedout,wefoundanicehousewithfenced the ladderofboateverydaytotakehisdailydump. to playin.Itwaseitherthatorcarryhimupanddown house forthemonthwithabigbackyardSnowBall German shepherd,withus,sowedecidedtorenta We hadourfaithfulcompanionSnowBall,awhite Yard inSt.Thomastodosomeseriousbottomwork. Island PacketsloophauledoutatIndependentBoat Dear New Jersey,USA Carol ReedandFrankStefanko way….” Ifonlyhecouldspeak. “Who needsit?Thatjuicewasprobablysourany- and takesaswig. from thesurf,retrievesbottle,easilyturnscap, rassed. Shortly,thehumanownerofbottlereturns critter crawlsoff,unsatisfiedandperhapsembar- and givesup.Somehow,we“feelhispain,”asthelittle He triesandtoscrapethejuicebottleopen. How didthiscreaturelearnskill?Itisalmost cap, toreleasehisheart’sdesire,andslakethirst. little guytriesscuffingfromallsidestoopenthebottle- door tobeletin(orout).Itishumorouswatch,asthe The anoleremindsusofatinypuppy,scratchingat it. Hedesperatelywantsthesweetamberliquidinside. his frontfeettoscratchatthebottle-cap,tryingloosen ing, soheapproachestheglisteningliquid. seems toknowitcontainssomethingtastyandtempt- meal. Hespiesaflagonofjuice,lyingbytherocks. in length,wanderingthewarmsand,lookingfora carpet ofshellsformthecrescentbeach. warm bluewatersbeckon,volcanicoutcropsanda ceviche andcaipirinhasbeneathcolorfulumbrellas, St. Vincent&theGrenadines Box 175BQ,BequiaVC0400 Compass PublishingLtd.,Readers’Forum or [email protected] Send yourlettersto: We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaintsor Be suretoincludeyourname,boatnameorshoreside We wanttohearfromYOU! Dear WE WANTTOHEARFROMYOU! So aftersomediscussionwecameupwithaplan. Snow Ballcameandwatchedforawhilethen It wasonthesecondweekend,aftertwoweeksof Some timeago,mywife,Kathy,andIhadour35-foot ELVIS THEIGUANA We wonderif,toavoidhumiliation,theanolethinks, But hecannotloosenthecap,becomesfrustrated, ALAS! Thebottleisclosed.Sothecreaturebeginstouse We seeabrownanolelizard,perhapsseveninches Compass Compass , Readers, human . JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 s e c i f f O

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s ’ o e e o c www.xmarine.info www.xmarine.info [email protected] i g g r v 1-473 415 0297 Mark a 1-473 435 0297 office 1-473 435 0297 office r o 1-473 415 0180 Nicolas L e US$69,000 e

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l t a Alexander Hamilton St George’s, Grenada SSt George’s, c i n As is where is, lying Antigua As is where is, lying h FOR SALE FOR c or ideal day charter (lapsed USCG certificate). or ideal day charter (lapsed USCG e Technical Service Dock and Offices Service TTechnical Technical Project Yacht Management Yacht Project Technical Design and Composite Fabrication Carbon, Kevlar) Epoxy, (Vinylester, Finishing Services, Gel Coat, Grip Certified) Painting (Awl Systems Engineering, Electrical, Mechanical Installations & Repairs Bottom planking renewed 2011/13. Stable strong boat. Bottom planking renewed 2011/13. REDUCED PRICE FOR URGENT SALE REDUCED PRICE FOR Built 1983 on Nevis by Ralph Harris for Neil Lewis Built 1983 on Nevis by Ralph GM diesel, lots of sails, good inventory, ready to go cruising ready GM diesel, lots of sails, good inventory, 48' WEST INDIES SCHOONER 48' WEST INDIES Tel: ( 268) 464-0845 E-mail: raylinnington@hotmailcom Tel: Don objects and says that coming , On this point I disagree, not because our On this point I disagree, not because our Once through the Windward Passage, Don agrees with me that jumping off from through the Windward Passage to go east to the Lesser Antilles involves a “500 mile slog to windward”. Professor is absent minded, but because the Greater Antilles is not Don’s strongest area of expertise; at least not those islands’ south shores. Cuba, Jamaica, the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico all have high mountain ranges. At night, cold air slides down the mountains and provides an offshore breeze if one sails within two or three miles of the shore and provided that the tradewinds were not blowing like stink during the day. often on a reach to a broad reach, to go east one simply needs to utilize those katabatic winds all the way to the eastern point of time in the Atlantic Ocean and also allows time in the Atlantic Ocean for sailing on a reach to a broad reach. The Windward Passage is not really the back door to the Caribbean for those coming from North America; it is the front door! Many will say that this is heresy, but a look at a map makes it quite clear. Bermuda to get to the Caribbean is not a good idea. Also he does not particularly care for the “thornless path” which has served so many for so many years who did not want an offshore route and I can understand his point of view as such a route can be tedious and complicated. Regarding the Windward Passage Puerto Rico. If you are in a rush, you can make the trip in three days; but why rush? There are so many wonderful harbors along the south shores of the Greater Antilles and the Caribbean — a sea which has a reputation for in I refer to the area west of Aruba to Cabo Gracias a Dios at the , he writes in the Letter of the Month his thoughts regarding “Coming South to , he writes in the Letter of the Letter of of Letter the Month , Caribbean Compass , and you’ll see that the Windward Passage, east of Compass A Thinking Man’s Guide to Voyaging South Frank Virgintino Author of Free Cruising Guides Additionally, Don’s understanding of my reference to the “Caribbean’s back door” misses the point. I suggested Additionally, Don’s understanding of my reference to the “Caribbean’s back door” misses the point. I suggested Don’s favored offshore route is feasible, but why take it if there is a better way? If there is an alternative, why do Don’s favored offshore route is feasible, but why take it if there is a better way? If there is an alternative, why If you examine a chart of the entire Caribbean, you’ll see that when coming from the East Coast of North America, entire Caribbean, you’ll see that when coming from the If you examine a chart of the Don’s strength is the Eastern Caribbean. For years, “the Caribbean” has largely been defined as the Lesser Caribbean. For years, “the Caribbean” has largely Don’s strength is the Eastern Don Street can be considered the Dean of Caribbean Cruising, at least for the Lesser Antilles. Moreover he is a the Dean of Caribbean Cruising, at least for the Lesser Don Street can be considered If you are thinking Caribbean, think Windward Passage! The clockwise route is the logical route. With careful planning you can leave the East Coast or Florida and, by by The clockwise route is the logical route. With careful planning you can leave the East Coast or Florida and, cruising the south coast of Cuba to those that would come into the Caribbean via the extreme west end of Cuba. cruising the south coast of Cuba to those that would come into the Caribbean via the extreme west end of is far I never intended it to mean that one should cruise only Cuba if one entered via the Windward Passage. It refers better, once through the Windward Passage, to follow the Greater Antilles eastward, than to take what Don In my to as a “Nantucket sleigh ride” to Colombia, something which I very much recommend that you do not do. book so many set off from the East Coast and head for the Virgin Islands? Because we have, more often than not, defined so many set off from the East Coast and head for the Virgin Islands? Because we have, more often than not, defined “the Caribbean” as the Lesser Antilles. However, sometimes the shortest distance between two points on a cruising boat is not a straight line, especially if that straight line has an alternative that is a better route. instead of working to “get to the Caribbean” you are already instead of working to “get to the Caribbean” you are already a bonus: you do not have to transverse the Mona Passage being more user friendly than the Atlantic. There is also the west end of Puerto Rico, a passage that can be very between the east end of the Dominican Republic and south challenging. The route from the eastern end of the Dominican Republic to the western end of Puerto Rico is most of the Mona Passage; it is the route that the ferryboat takes and can allow you to cross comfortably on Rico nights. I have sailed on a port tack from Ile-à-Vache at the western end of Haiti to the east end of Puerto doing without using my motor, many times over. If you find this trip to be a “500-mile slog to windward”, you are something wrong! Look at this map and the one on page three of this issue of Look at this map and the one on page three of this issue Compass Cuba, can be a welcoming entrance to the Caribbean Sea the easiest and safest way into the Caribbean Sea is via the Windward Passage. This entrance minimizes one’s into the Caribbean Sea is via the Windward Passage. the easiest and safest way Antilles. However, the Caribbean is much larger than that. Antilles. However, the Caribbean the Caribbean”. Don and I have exchanged opinions on this topic for a number of years, and much of what Don have exchanged opinions on this topic for a number the Caribbean”. Don and I he knows of what he speaks and Lesser Antilles, should be carefully considered as says, especially regarding the of what he has sailed. wonderful example for all, as notwithstanding what age he has attained, he never stops educating. In the November notwithstanding what age he has attained, he never wonderful example for all, as 2013 edition of Dear using the Windward Passage, quickly gain access to the Caribbean. By heading eastward on the south coasts of of using the Windward Passage, quickly gain access to the Caribbean. By heading eastward on the south coasts the the Greater Antilles, you sail in the protected lee of those large islands before turning south to head down Lesser Antilles chain. From Grenada or Trinidad, the heading is west to the ABC islands and then on to Colombia and the islands of San Andrés and Providencia, around the cape and on to the Rio Dulce, Belize and Mexico. season You can consider Grenada or Trinidad for your first hurricane season in the Caribbean. For your second want it would be either Curaçao or Rio Dulce, depending on how much time you have and the distances that you to cover. northeast corner of Honduras as The Hole. I call it that because once you sail into it, it is very hard to sail out of northeast corner of Honduras as The Hole. I call it that because once you sail into it, it is very hard to sail that it in any direction but west. The seas, winds and currents make it so difficult to sail eastward from there, Lesser many, if not most, who have tried it have given up. Better to go eastward from the Windward Passage to the points Antilles, and then follow the Lesser Antilles southward before turning west to the ABC islands and the beyond. In other words, circumnavigate the Caribbean clockwise. If you sailed straight from the Windward Passage to Colombia, your best option from there would be to head west and out of the Caribbean. JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • ABYCcertifiedmachanics • 70TonTravelift(30'beam) • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings Zar-Par Marina Visit: marinazarpar.comemail:[email protected] M a Tel: 8095235858VHFChannel5

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69.36.67W 18.25.50N WWW.UNCOMMONCARIBBEAN.COM — andcan’thelpbutdancetotheverybestof Steel ‘pan’bandsandTrinidadaresynonymous,atcarnivalyou’llseehear “Don’t worry,worstthat’sgonnahappenissomeonewillhugyouup!” and wasconsideringanogo.Thenladyattheautorentalconvincedmebysaying, carnivals IhadvisitedinSt.Thomas,Croix,andLucia,evenMardiGras, streets, doJouvert,andswillrumwhilewatchingthebeauties.Iconsidered Chaguaramas. Nevertheless,newTrinifriendsurgedmetogoforit,danceinthe I hadabrokenshoulderfromanautoaccidentandmy a bitdoubtfulandfearfulatfirst.Myfirstcarnivalwastheturnofmillennium. Trinidad carnivalisaCaribbeanwondernottobemissed. numbers ofvisitors.ButTrinidadcarnivalisjusttheopposite,moremerrier! complain abouthowthesewondersaregettingimproperlyimpactedbyincreasing beaches, andspectacularcoralreefsthroughouttheCaribbean,everyyearwe on March3rdand4ththisyear. cleaned almostimmediately.Wouldn’tit begreatifyoucouldrecoverthatfast? again nextyear. Trinidad. Foodaromaswillfindyou.Get homearounddarkandswearyou’lldoit memory card,plentyofbatteries,and getreadyforthebeautifulposersof sodas. Getawide-brimmedhat,sunscreen, agoodcamerawithatleast2GB That isthefullexperience. all thatmoneyforacoupleofdaysguaranteedsunburndancinginthestreets. street party.Youcanalsojoinaband,ofwhichthereareprobablyhundred, pay nival withJouvert.Joinanorganizedgroupforthisnight-till-the-sun-comes-shining o’clock Mondaymorningwakeforadrenchingwithmudandpainttoopenthecar- Mas atVictoriaSquarewhereyoucanviewcarnivalasitwasdecadesago.At two in PortofSpain,theMasCampPub.Laterafternoonthereisatraditional Old legends suchastheMightySparrowandothergreatsatbestcalypsonightclub parades huge,complex,beautifulcostumes.Sundayafternoonusuallyhascalypso Monarch ischosenandtheKingQueenofBandsarecrowned.Eachband — loudandraucous.Sundayisthestartoffinals;atDimancheGrasCalypso Constantly happeningarebigfêtesofsocamusic—asortevolutioncalypso that isscheduledforcarnival.Buythenewspaperandcheckwhatyouwantto see. almost reverently. plished work-wiseandforgetaboutgovernmentoffices.Trinistaketheircarnival masses fromfêtetopartyandfête.Don’teventrygetanythingaccom- the islandiscrowded.Themaxitaxisystemworksroundclocktomove the and Triniseasilyextendhospitality.Itistheworsetimebecauseitonly best becauseitisthesafest,withapoliceforcevisible.Itconstantparty/lime you leavetheboatanddrinksensibly.Carnivalisbestworstoftimes.The the majortourismeventiscarnival.Whatdoesthattellyou?Lockyourstuffbefore became mypersonalfountainofyouth. Jouvert inChaguaramas,atanall-inclusivefêtetheAnchorage,andcarnival have beenasignforeasypickings.ButIjoinedfewguysfromtheboatyard Your Bucket List I’ve onlybeenaconstantTrinicarnivalfanfordozenyears,andtruthfullyIwas There aremanynaturalwonderssuchasvolcanoes,rainforests,swamps,beautiful Trinidad’s Carnivalfunclimaxeson MondayandTuesday,whichwillbe Every yearcarnivalgetsbetterorganized. Policeareveryvisible.Thestreets Or beavoyeur,getpintbottleofrumandkeepexpenseslowbuyingcokes or It isnearlyimpossiblebothtime-wiseandfinanciallytoparticipateineverything Yeah, Trinidadgetsalotofbadpressowingtocrime,butitisbigislandand And shewasabsolutelycorrect.Insomeotherplacestheslingonmyarmmight Put theTrini Carnival on WHAT’S ONMYMIND by RalphTrout Sea Cow wasonthehardin JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 2,000,000 $950,000 €340,000 $ 2007 73’ Executive Catana 2007 50’ Catana 2000 47’ $749,000 $619,000 €4.900.000

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went to press — but plans change, CALENDAR Compass [email protected] and date(s) of the event and the name in our monthly calendar, please send the name BVI Kite Jam. St. Maarten Multihull Regatta. www.StMaartenMultiHullRegatta.com Semaine Nautique Internationale de Schoelcher, Martinique. St. Barth’s Carnival and contact information of the organizing body to SuperYacht Challenge Antigua. Grenada Sailing Week, www.grenadasailingweek.com St. Barth Fun Cup Windsurf races Club Náutico de San Juan Int’l Regatta, If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE St. Barts Music Festival. www.stbartsmusicfestival.org Jamaica Jazz and Blues Festival, Montego Bay. Mustique Blues Festival. Bitter End Yacht Club Invitational Midwinter Regatta, Virgin Gorda, BVI. Bitter End Yacht Club Invitational Anguilla Dinghy Championship Soggy Dollar Painkiller Cup, SUP race, Tortola, BVI. http://go-hiho.com All information was correct to the best of our knowledge so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. and 32nd Annual 36th Annual Sweethearts of the Caribbean Gay Rum Round Barbados Race Series. Mount Bequia Mount Gay Music Fest, www.bequiatourism.com/bequiamusicfest Jolly Harbour Valentine’s Regatta and Rum Festival, Antigua. St. Croix. St. Croix Yacht Club (SCYC), Cruzan Open Dinghy Regatta, Boat Regatta. www.grenadasailingfestival.com United Insurance Work Last Lap, St. Kitts & Nevis. www.stkittsneviscarnival.com Carnival Parade and Crucian Christmas Festival, St. Croix. www.stxfestival.com Anguilla Regatta. www.anguillaregatta.com Nautique Le Neptune (CNN), Carnival Regatta, Martinique. Club at the time this issue of FULL MOON Parties at Trellis Bay and West End, Tortola, Sailors’ & Landlubbers’ Auction, Bequia. www.bequiasunshineschool.org Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI (Presidents’ Day) Public holiday in St. Lucia (Independence Day). Round the Island Race. Public holiday in Guyana (Republic Day) RORC Caribbean 600 starts from Antigua Public holiday in Puerto Rico (Eugenio María de Hostos Day) FULL MOON Parties at Trellis Bay and West End, Tortola, Around Antigua Race. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC), tel/fax (268) 460-1799, (Errol Barrow Day), Puerto Rico and USVI Public holiday in Barbados (GF Croes Day) Public holiday in Aruba Islands (National Heroes’ Day celebrated) Public holiday in the Cayman St. Croix. Free Public Clinic - Explore Salt River, www.ramsar.org World Wetlands Day. Grenada (39th Anniversary of Independence) Public holiday in Races, Grenada. Petite Calivigny Yacht Club (PCYC), Hobie Cat Match (New Year’s Day) Public holiday or “recovery day” in many places Sailing School Junior Regatta, Grenada. [email protected] Gouyave Day) and Haiti Public holiday in Cuba (Victory of Armed Forces Public holiday in some places (Three Kings Day/Epiphany) www.clubnautiqueleneptune.com TBA 25 – March 3 28 – 2 March 28 – 4 March 28 – 4 March TBA www.cnschoelcher.net tel (596) 51 73 24, fax (596) 51 73 70, 2 www.jhycantigua.com 7 13 - 16 [email protected], 14 – 16 Yacht Club (JHYC). tel (268) 770-6172, Jolly Harbour 15 Classic Yacht Regatta, BVI. West End Yacht Club (WEYC), 16 tel (284) 496-8685, [email protected] www.stluciayachtclub.com 17 22 and at Pinney’s Beach, Nevis [email protected], 22 - 23 St. Lucia Yacht Club (SLYC), tel (758) 452-8350, 23 24 (340) 773-9531, fax 778-8350, [email protected], www.stcroixyc.com tel [email protected], www.pcycgrenada.com 2 [email protected], FEBRUARY 1 – 2 31 – 2 Feb 1 1 1 – 2 1 – 4 2 4 6 (Founding Fathers’ Day) 11 – 18 Bush tribe Eco Adventures (340) 277-2503 JANUARY 13 14 – 4 Feb 15 – 25 www.beyc.com Bitter End Yacht Club (BEYC), [email protected], www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com www.antiguayachtclub.com 16 18 [email protected], 18 Nevis and at Pinney’s Beach, 21 22 - 5 Feb King Day), and the Dominican Republic (Martin Luther of Altagracia) (Our Lady 25 25 28 30 – 1 Feb 30 – 4 Feb http://jamaicajazzandblues.com www.discoversvg.com/index.php/en/mustique/events 23 – 26 31 – 2 Feb www.nauticodesanjuan.com 31 – 2 Feb

JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 CARRIACOU REALESTATE DOMINICA YACHTSERVICES PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Property Managementon Carriacou Tel: (473)4438187Fax:8290 Incl. Pilots,Rigging Chandlery, Charts, TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 YACHT SERVICES e-mail: [email protected] We alsohandleVilla Rentals & or contactCarolyn Alexander at For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: saw theiradin to tellouradvertisersyou - Relax!Leavetheworktous MID ATLANTIC Carriacou RealEstateLtd ☛ Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Land andhousesforsale EU-VAT (16%)importation Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts! www.carriacou.net www.dominicayachtservices.com [email protected] +767-448-7701 Fax +767-275-2851 Mobile/445-4322 Dominica Roseau &BaySt.Portsmouth 18 VictoriaSt. Hubert J.Winston

[email protected] REMEMBER Compass ! Located ontheKiraniJamesBlvd.(LagoonRoad) Jeff Fisher–Grenada(473)537-6355 and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthechartertrade well-built sailsthatarewellsuitedtothe for acompetitivequoteonruggedand Check outourwebsiteorcontactusdirectly S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada stainless steelandaluminium items. TechNick Ltd. welding. Fabricationandrepair of Phone (473)4436500orcallCH16 Engineering, fabricationand Sunday Brunch 11.30-14.30 Sunday Brunch www.neilprydesails.com Reservations recommended Reservations Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 Open 11.30-2.00for Lunch Situated ontheSouthSide Nick Williams, Manager Tyrrel Bay,Tyrrel Carriacou [email protected] Use ournewDinghyDock 6.00 -9.00for Dinner Tuesday toSaturday Grenada NEILPRYDE Sails Bar openallDay of Tyrrel Bay. Tyrrel of continuedonnextpage

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JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 3’ Draft: shing boat. 9’.6” 50 US gal. Beam: 110 US gal. 110 Valued at US$45K Valued for conversion to ﬁ Twin Disc 5011A (1 installed new, in January 2013) (1 installed new, Disc 5011A Twin 2 x 150hp Cummins 4BT, 3.9 Diesel reconditioned in 2010 2 x 150hp Cummins 4BT, & marine services center make direct contact via: For further details please MID ATLANTIC MID ATLANTIC are looking for new owners. 2000, Delta custom dive boat, very stable in adverse conditions 2000, Delta custom dive boat, very stable Excellent craft for diving or tours, spacious below deckExcellent craft for diving or tours, spacious Some background within the 31.5’ 31.5’ YACHT SERVICES YACHT [email protected] Atlantic islands offshore chandlery Atlantic islands offshore PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES / FAIAL, HORTA PT-9900-144 Built: Engines: Marine Gear: Capacity: Fuel Tank Capacity: Fresh Water LOA: Proprietors of this highly successful [email protected] or call (784) 488 8486 help carry on the seasonal operation. or a marine business environment will international yachting community and/ Plenty of room for growth/expansion & new ideas w/ an enviable quality of life. For Sale: Mustique Diver II For Sale: Mustique W K W I F D < ; K W U O J D

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e-mail: [email protected] ☛ to tell our advertisers you I have been connected with the marine insurance saw their ad in business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers in the Lloyds market. JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 JULY E-mail: [email protected] details; Tel:(246)230-1532 diesel. LyingBarbados,for 1999, 3cabins,Yanmar54 JEANNEAU SUNODYSSEY40 E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (767)245-6808/446-3563 Lying Dominica.US$50,000 records available. tained andreadyforuse,all head/shower.Well main- A/C, cabin,flybridge, 1973 TwinCAT3160420HP, BERTRAM 34’SPORTFISHER [email protected] 3474/495-4930 E-mail: efficiency. Tel:(784)454- inboard engines,greatfuel SPECIAL CALYPSO MARINEV-34 com Tel:(784)457-3362 E-mail: vthadley@vincysurf. com Tel:(784)433-3334 E-mail: pukasail51@hotmail. Lying BlueLagoon,St.Vincent. condition. Idealforchartering. 4 en-suitedblcabins.Ingood Newly re-builtPerkins90HP, 50’ BENETEAUM5001989 Tel: (758)4528531 49,900US E-mail: [email protected] 198334ftVINDÖ45 1987IRWIN44MKII95.000US 2001Bavaria46/3130.000US Cardinal46cc165.000US 1992 WARWICK 2002BENETEAU505175.000US 2003GibSea51185.000US DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATIONPG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER ai al CW 34 MP Martinique 22/MP MP MP MP C/W 45 MP SVG Martinique 20 Trinidad Martinique 2 33 7 Clippers Ship 10 Trinidad Caribbean PropellersLtd. SVG MP SintMaarten Caribbean MarineElectrical Caribbean Diesel Carib Tails Grenada MP St.Maarten Caraibe Marine SVG 33 SVG Caraibe Marine MP 16 SVG Captain Gourmet Camper &Nicholsons MP Grenada Budget Marine Grenada Boat Paint&Stuff 34 Antigua Blue LagoonHotel&MarinaLtd 38 Bequia MusicFest SVG St.Lucia Bequia Marina 11 Basil’s Bar MP Barefoot YachtCharters Antigua B &CFuelDock 39 Assurances MaritimesAntilles St. Maarten C/W Art Fabrik Antigua Art &Design ARC Dynamic Antigua ClassicRegatta Anjo Insurance Alexander HamiltonBoat4sale C/W Akwaba Martinique Aero TechLab MP , 2xYanmardiesel FORSALE

SVG 17 smudge.com/akemi_for_sale Details/photos atwww. com Tel:(767)6139895 OBO. E-mail:tom@smudge. Selling duetoillness.US$18,000 formerly knownas"Duppy". Vincent), named"Akemi", Ottley HallShipyard(St 30HP, readytosail.Hauledat cocks andthru-hulls,Yanmar end cruising.Allnewsea- sail! Perfectforfamilyweek- gle personsailing,ajoyto [email protected] Lying CarriacouE-mail: offers considered. For quicksale,reasonable to shore.AskingUS$30,000. aboard sailorsmademove now! Fullyfitted-out.Live 1981 IRWIN37'KETCH [email protected] www.aviationcms.com E-mail: props w/over60speedprops. Bravo 1drives.40MPHcruise hauled byMercurydealer, 502 marineenginesover- shower(s), VaccuFlush,Mercury leather incabin,galley, Grenada. Gen-Set,A/C,white speedboat isavailablein POWERBOAT 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN ENDEAVOUR 40 E-mail: [email protected] Yamaha. Tel:(784)533-1996 27’ CUDDYCABIN200HP 1969 COLUMBIA36 E-mail: [email protected] Will tradeforrealestate. wind generator,electronics. complete w/solarpanels, cockpit, cruisingready, This luxury m . Easysin- Center . Buy . Buy oar nepie U 34/38 33 MP 19/48 35 36 8 SintMaarten UK St.Lucia 18 SVG MP 9 Grenada 37 MP Island WaterWorld SVG Grenada 22 SVG Iolaire Enterprises St.Lucia Mp Harmony Apartel Grenada Grenadines Sails Grenada Grenadine AirAlliance MP 21 34 Grenada Tourism SVG Grenada SailingWeek Tortola C/W Grenada Marine Gourmet Food Golden Taste Trinidad 4 Golden HindChandlery SVG Free CruisingGuides USA 39 Frangipani Hotel 36 Food Fair MP 27 MP 38 Fernando's Hideaway International Tortola Electropics Trinidad MP Edward WilliamInsurance St.Maarten St.Lucia Echo Marine St.Lucia Curaçao Grenada Doyle's Guides Doyle OffshoreSails MP Dominica Down IslandRealEstate Doolittle's Restaurant Dominica YachtServices Diesel Outfitters Curaçao Marine Crown Foods

[email protected] sailing. US$48,000OBO. Medical problemstopsme aboard. LyingFajardoPR. Solid boat,wonderfullive- els, manyextrasandspares. RIB, SSB,Aerogen6,solarpan- cruiser. Greatmotor&sails, ble centercockpitocean CSY 441979 E-mail: [email protected] US$18.000 Tel:(784)493-3076 cabin, 200hpYamaha. 23’ FORMULA [email protected] 8828/457-4477 E-mail considerably Tel:(784)582- Must Sell,pricesreduced DIVE BOAT42’ head,swim platform/ladders stereo, deckshower/ passengers, largehardtop, hp YanmarTurbo,seats20 38FT BOWEN [email protected] Tel: (784)528-7273E-mail: the markettoday! Cheapest Sundanceron sels, 1992 42’ SEARAYSUNDANCER excellent condition. excellent condition. withCaterpillardie- ADVERTISERS INDEX www.caribbeancompass.com Safedependa- w/cabin, 2x300 w/cabin,2x300 w/cuddy CLASSIFIEDS US$60,000 US$60,000 E-mail: E-mail:

[email protected] (784) 593-7485E-mail: good togo.US$275,000.Tel: Bequia. Immaculateand chain, fueltanksetc.Lying ments, rigging,anchorand ing bothengines,instru- during pastfiveyearsinclud- most majoritemsrenewed equipped forcruisingwith new (1997).Veryfully after byoneownerfrom “Mirounga” Lovinglylooked PROUT 45CATAMARAN. [email protected] Tel: (473)443-7882E-mail: tion. LyingCarriacouUS$8,450 bished. Greenheartconstruc- Good condition,justrefur- 21' PIROGUEw/115HPYamaha silvermoonbarbados.com silvermoonbarbados.com (246) 262-2761E-mail:nick@ at US$140K.NickTel: passengers. Greatdeal party boat.Seatsupto50 snorkel, dive,watertaxi, Yamaha 4strokeOB’s.Ideal grade aluminum.2X150 designed andbuiltinmarine 16’ Beam,Professionally CATAMARAN -50’LOA, E-mail: [email protected] list available.ContactRich More photosandequipment St, Lucia.US$45,000OBO. Regatta. Readytosell,lying Winner ofBequiaEaster equipped tocruiseorrace. One owner,wellkept,fully ing, stylish&comfortable. C&C LANDFALL38. e akPit CW 12 MP MP MP 27 C/W MP St.Lucia MP Trinidad Aruba SVG MP MP MP Sea HawkPaints St.Lucia SVG 20 Rodney BaySails 41 Renaissance Marina 21 6 Radiator &HoseWorks MP Grenada Power Boats Grenada Porthole Restaurant 38 C/W Piper Marine SVG Ottley HallMarina&Shipyard St.Lucia Tortola C/W MP Tortola Off ShoreRiskManagement Northern LightsGenerators 40 13 Grenada MP Neil PrydeSails DominicanRep. Nauti Solutions MP MP Mustique DiverII 28 Azores Multihull Company 29 Colombia 36 Mid AtlanticYachtServices Grenada PuertoRico McIntyre Bros.Ltd St.Maarten 31 Marine Tek St.Maarten Trinidad Marina Zar-Par St.Lucia Marina SantaMarta Marina PortLaRoyale St.Lucia Marina Pescaderia Marigot GourmetPizza Marc OneMarine Lagoon Marina La Playa Johnson Hardware Fastsail- Telfor BedeauTel:(473)442-6200 trees; westernsectionwooded. tion cultivatedwithvariousfruit from Soubisebeach.Easternsec- from Grenvillebyroadand1/2mile Soubise, St.Andrews,11/2miles per sq/ft.LocatedatTheVillain ft (3acres,1rood,19poles).US$1 GRENADA islandpace.com 458-3544 Email:emmett@ Island PaceRealty.Tel:(784) land, buildings,equipment. ager for31yrs.Complete taurant. Sameowner-man- Bequia’s mostpopularres- Waterfront location, BEQUIA-MAC’S PIZZERIA E-mail: [email protected] Fenced lot.$195,000USD,OBO Bed, 1Bath,8027Sq/ft. Friendship Bay,8yrs.old,2 BEQUIA-HOUSE, gmail.com Tel:(784)493-3128 EC$25,000 windandsealtd@ Vincent andtheGrenadines Fiberglass, registeredinSaint “Annick” FordSaber225V, 27’ PILOT/FISHINGBOAT contained cottages which contained cottageswhich barn conversionandtwoself Various buildingsincluding weather andsmallwaterfall. which flow24/7regardlessof cash crops.Threesprings do, assortedcitrusandvaried has nutmeg,mango,avoca- FARM ORGANIC CERTIFIEDCOCOA GRENADA-13.5 ACRE www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern and multi-acretracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, www.bequialandforsale.com views, largelotsfromUS$5/sq.ft. BEQUIA -MT.PLEASANT [email protected] (613) 931-1868E-mail: 11,340 sq/ft.US$125,000Tel: Quatre andMustique. view ofPetitNevis,Islea property withspectacular La Pompe,oceanfront BEQUIA- BUILDINGLOT PROPERTY FORSALE fully operational. Also fullyoperational.Also Approx.area150,000sq/

MUST SELL Lots Near Near Great Great C/W =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages42to45

[email protected] com/specials.htm at http://doylecaribbean. EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIALDEALS SAILS ANDCANVAS spiceisle.com E-mail: starwindsailing@ Mosden, Tel:(473)407-1147 Comes withallcontrols. Yamaha 90hp4stroke.2013, parts asapackage. Diesels withlotsofspare 2 X3126CATERPILLAR420HP [email protected] direct contactE-mail: further detailspleasemake w/ anenviablequalityoflife.For growth/expansion &newideas operation. Plentyofroomfor will helpcarryontheseasonal marine businessenvironment yachting communityand/ora ground withintheinternational new owners.Someback- services centerarelookingfor offshore chandlery&marine highly successfulAtlanticIslands SERVICES AZORES –MIDATLANTICYACHT [email protected] with controlpanel.E-mail: YANMAR 54HP, hotmail.com location. E-mail $10 sq/ftdependingonsizeand to 9,000sq.ft.PricesfromUS$5 access, plotsavailable.0.9acres Court Bay.Excellentviews,water GRENADA email: [email protected] term rates.Tel:(784)4951177 minimum, excellentlong- Internet, cableTV.2weeks stunning view,coolbreeze. Big verandahandpatio, or 1bedstudioapartment. Large 2bedroomhouseand/ LA POMPE,BEQUIA landlord at(784)456-9016. Realty Tel:(784)527-0986or Josea MasonIslandCloud Elizabeth. PleasecontactMs. at thebestlocationinPort other commercialenterprise 1st floor.Idealforanofficeor BUILDING. BEQUIA -BOOKSHOP E-mail [email protected] woodwork.com Tel:(784)431-9500 for yachtorhomewww.bequia- BEQUIA -CLIFF’SFINEWOODWORKING only please,thanks US$450,000 Seriousinquiries ther investmentneccessary. shed, workshopetc.,nofur- modation. Cocoadrying serve aslowbudgetaccom- MISC. FORSALE aie rnd 39 40 MP Grenada 37 47 Venezuela MP St.Lucia Trinidad Trinidad YES Martinique MP SVG Yacht SteeringCommittee Xanadu Marine 41 X Yachtforsale MP Grenada18/MP X Marine 40 WIND Martinique 15 West PalmHotel MP SVG Venezuela Vintages Bequia Venezuelan MarineSupply PuertoRico MP Velocity WaterServices C/W 21 Antigua Turbulence Sails St.Lucia 5 Trade Windshelpwanted 14 Townhouse MegaStore St.Maarten MP MP Tortugal Guatemala 11 Technick Grenada St.Martin Sunbay Marina Grenada Stephanie's Hotel St. MartinMarineDiesel Grenada St. MaartenSails Grenada MP SpotlessStainless USA MP MP Spice IslandMarine South GrenadaRegatta Slipway Restaurant SERVICES Proprietors of this Proprietorsofthis RENTALS - East side Clarkes -EastsideClarkes 152Sq.Ft.onthe streetiolaire@ low hours low hours E-mail: E-mail:

JANUARY 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47

Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago