C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS DECEMBER 2014 NO. 231 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

HERE THEY COME!

See story on page 14 SEA ASSOCIATION DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN PAGE 2 H H INGA BEITZ O A L P I The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore D www.caribbeancompass.com P A DECEMBER 2014 • NUMBER 231 Y Y S Nautical Night & Natural Embracing the dark ...... 26 DEPARTMENTS Colombia eyes yachts ...... 16 NENCHEVA

NENCHEVA Info & Updates ...... 4 Look Out For… ...... 34 Business Briefs ...... 8 Salty’s Beat ...... 35 Regatta News...... 11 Cooking with Cruisers ...... 36 Destinations ...... 18 Readers’ Forum ...... 37 Seawise ...... 28 Calendar of Events ...... 40 Fun Page ...... 30 What’s on My Mind ...... 40 The Caribbean Sky ...... 31 Caribbean Market Place .....42 Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 33 Classified Ads ...... 46 Saba Meridian Passage ...... 34 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46 DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 The ‘impossible’ island ...... 21 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. GOOCH Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected], www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Accounting...... Shellese Craigg [email protected] [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected]

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Get Real! Cruising Life ©2014 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short Buy local arts & crafts ...... 24 An 11-year-old’s view ...... 32 excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. ISSN 1605 - 1998

Cover Photo: Among the hundreds of sailing vessels bound individually for the Caribbean right now is the mighty Corwith Cramer (see story on page 7). Yet more boats are streaming in with a growing number of transatlantic races and rallies (see story on page 14)

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.

‘Your magazine is a pleasure to read: the copy and pics are outstanding!’ — Lee Woods Cocoa, Florida

Santa Marta

Cartagena

Click Google link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 &Updates Info Haiti anditspeople,particularlyIle-à-Vache. four decades.Earlyonhefellinlovewith years, hascruisedtheCaribbeanforover Cruising Association(SSCA)forthepast15 who hasbeenamemberoftheSevenSeas station hostinTrinidad. the SevenSeasCruisingAssociationcruising and transportationprovider,Jesseisalso communityasthe“goto”tour Year 2014(Individual).Wellknowninthe Services wasnamedServiceProviderofthe Award Ceremony. fourth AnnualExcellenceinService Coalition ofServicesIndustrieshostedits yachting andthemarineindustryinAntigua&Barbudaisdeservedlyrecognized. tion tosailingandcommunitydevelopment.Franklyn’spartinthedevelopmentof Grand OfficerMostPreciousOrderofPrincelyHeritageforhisdistinguishedcontribu- Braithwaite, whowasnamedinAntigua’sIndependenceDayHonourslistasa Barbuda MarineAssociationarejustafewoftheachievementsFranklin Commodore ofAntiguaYachtClub,andcurrentPresidentthe& 1315Z. ThePanamaConnectionNetison8107USBat0830L,1330Z. use VHFchannel72.TheSouthwestCaribbeanNetonSSB6209USBisat0815L, 68 at0745.InPortobelo,currentlythereisnomorningnetbutcruisersmonitorand Barbara Theisenreports: • FRANKVIRGINTINO Jesse JamesofMembersOnlyMaxiTaxi On November3rdtheTrinidad&Tobago • JESSEJAMES John Duffyreports:FormerOlympicsailor,formerCommodoreandcurrentRear- • FRANKLINBRAITHWAITE Honor Roll! In BocasdelToro,Panama,thereisacruisers’neteverymorningonVHFchannel Panama RadioNets [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands

Frank Virgintino, Rose, attheawardsceremony Jesse Jamesandhiswife,Sharon T&T ServiceExcellenceAwardwinner 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor Chaguramas AMD Sails Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuilding

islands/anchorages tovisit.Currentincidentsandnewsitemsareeasilyviewed… the CSSNwebsite.Makemostinformeddecisionspossibleaboutwhichareas/ the CSSNdatabaseeasily,byislandandanchorage,inIslandReportssectionof Reasonable precautionscanbetakentoavoidbeingvictimized. ing yourcruisinglifestylecrimefreeorhavingtolookbackandsay,“IfonlyIhad…” increased importanceofproperpreparations. varying degrees.Hencetheneedtounderstandcurrentspecificsand lines, buttherealityisthatcrimesagainstcruisersoccureverywherenow—to years ago.Changeshappenedgraduallyandindifferentplacesontime- free andbasicallycrime-freeexistencewecouldtakeforgrantednotthatmany enced ashore.Wenolongerenjoytheunrestricted,neverlocked,completelycare- have takenthetimetosharetheirexperiences. available, makingiteasyto“KnowBeforeYouGo!”Learnfromothercruiserswho www.safetyandsecuritynet.com, toseethemanyresourcesandtoolsthatarenow accessible andusefulforthecruisingcommunity.CheckoutCSSNwebsite, working tomakesafetyandsecurityinformationresourcesmoretimely,visible, those ofuswhoareunpreparedaboutsecuritymatters,careless,orsimplyunlucky. ing toourboats’needsaswelljustrelaxingandfullyenjoyingthecruisinglifestyle. Basin fromportsfaraway,manyforthefirsttime.Forallofusitusuallymeansattend- hurricane hidey-holes.ItalsobringsmanynewcruisersandboatstotheCaribbean and theofficialendofhurricaneseasonbringsmanyyear-roundcruisersouttheir Virgintino withthisawardfor2014. benefit tomankindandtheenvironment.TheSSCAisproudhonorFrank tries theyarevisiting,and/orthosewhoinvolvethemselvesinactivitiesofsignificant and offerassistancetoothers,whethercruisersorthosewholiveinthecoun- wake willbewarmlywelcomed.Awardrecipientsarethosewhoshowgenerosity to showrespectforothersandourenvironmentsothatthosewhofollowin their behavioroneofthemainprinciplesSSCA,namelyto“leaveacleanwake”: to familieswithveryscarceresourceswhodependonthesea. coastal Haitianvillages,andmadeitlogisticallyfeasibleforcruiserstolendsupport remote seacoast.FrankhasenticedmorecruiserstovisitIle-à-Vacheandother gear tofishermenandtheirfamilieswhorelylargelyonabartereconomy him toestablishSecondLifeSails,aprojectbringusedsailsandotherbasicfishing Caribbean andaccessastringofHaitianfishingvillages.Thatresearchcruiseled and visitHaiti,FrankexploredtheoptionofusingWindwardPassagetoenter an increaseinboatsvisitingIle-à-Vachetoaverageof20perweek. to bringsuppliestheorphanagethere.Hiseffortsoveryearshaveproduced He featuredIle-à-VacheinoneofhisFreeCruisingGuides,andorganizedaflotilla You canreviewhistoricaswellthemostrecentreportedincidentsincludedin Some simplechoicesandprecautionscouldmakethedifferencebetweenenjoy- Sadly, crimesagainstcruisershavebeguntolookmuchmorelikeexperi- The CaribbeanSafetyandSecurityNet(CSSN)volunteershavespentthepastyear For asmallsegmentitrepresentsanincreasedopportunitytotakeadvantageof Kim Whitereports:Decemberbringsmanyseasonalcruisersbacktotheirboats, Security Matters The GrowltigerCleanWakeAwardrecognizesvoyagingsailorswhoexemplifyby Intrigued bythepossibilityofencouragingmorecruiserstochallengestereotypes Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Kingston PJG Jamaica Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix —Continued onnextpage DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 (see Info & (see Info & —Continued on next page Santa Maria ran aground in December 1492. ) a UNESCO mission of experts has con- Santa Maria Compass Santa Maria The new work, which during low tide will reflect a mirror image on the underside the underside reflect a mirror image on which during low tide will The new work, reef for materials, it creates an artificial sustainable pH neutral Constructed using visit www.jasondecairestaylor.com. For more information Bay, Dominica Yachting in Prince Rupert’s reports: With unspoiled beauty, a rich culture and Jeff Frank, President of PAYS, Prince Rupert’s Bay is the hub for yachts and marine- The town of Portsmouth on Bay, one of the PAYS members will welcome When anchored at Prince Rupert’s on the Purple Turtle Beach at Portsmouth. PAYS now has an office located companies who We acknowledge the individuals, yacht clubs and charter For more information contact [email protected]. Wreck Off Haiti Not hopes that a wreck found Although archaeological investigator Barry Clifford had The bronze or copper fasteners found on the site, near the Coque Vieille Reef, The bronze or copper fasteners found on the site, near trail designed by Reefball. trail designed works, in scale from Taylor’s previous is a dramatic increase of the sea’s surface, that even park in Grenada, and ensures in the underwater sculpture such as those will still remain highly recognizable. coral growth the figure after substantial over-stressed drawing tourists away from colonize and inhabit, while marine life to point to aid located on the highest A solar light and flag are natural reef areas. marine . has become one of the rising stars among hospitable people, Dominica yachting destinations. Indian River tour guides there formed the non- based tourism. In 2005, 13 certified of Yacht Security (PAYS). Our primary role is to protect profit Portsmouth Association to sustain future development in Dominica. PAYS aims the yachting industry in order to yachters in Prince Rupert’s Bay, to increase arriv- to provide security and services is as a whole, and to ensure that the yachters’ stay als in the bay and in Dominica safe and enjoyable. are provided to yachters by PAYS include night secu- you to Dominica. Services that within the Prince Rupert’s Bay area, and help in rity patrols for yachts anchored Other services include tours, laundry, taxis and assis- search and rescue operations. clearance. We are famous for our Sunday- tance with Customs and Immigration night barbecue. office, and there is a washroom. Information is provided at the Many thanks for partner- have recommended Dominica as a sailing destination. ing with PAYS. off the north coast of Haiti was Columbus’s flagship Updates in the October issue of cluded that this is not the case. The UNESCO mission was requested by the Haitian requested by the Haitian cluded that this is not the case. The UNESCO mission was leader Xavier Nieto Government, and according to a report drafted by mission 14th, “There is now incontest- Prieto, who visited Cap-Haitien from September 9th to Mr. Nieto Prieto is a former able proof that the wreck is from a much later period.” and a leading Director of Spain’s National Museum of Underwater Archaeology expert on Spanish shipwrecks. centuries; prior to that, only point to shipbuilding techniques of the late 17th or 18th iron or wood fasteners were used. The Continued from previous page Continued from — Hot Spots are easily viewed home page, and 2014 …from the CSSN yourself, to make a report or to stay informed, It could not be easier to educate For more information visit www.safetyandsecuritynet.com. Underwater Sculpture Installed at the begin- The sculpture, commis- geographically, with supporting reports links. There are helpful tabs about about links. There are helpful tabs with supporting reports geographically, communications, basic boat watches, emergency initiating effective are on the added features (the icons and also two recently precaution ideas reporting a simple online incident that have proven very popular: home page) sends automat- CSSN Alerts. CSSN Alerts subscription service to form, and a free items or there are new news to your e-mail in-box whenever ic notifications schedule on the website, on whatever reported and posted security incidents you choose. is an individual choice and cruising community benefit and Know Before You Go! It valuable resources and tools. Please help yourself and for everyone to utilize these supporter of cruising security matters. other cruisers by being an active in the Bahamas ning of October 2014 on the western coastline of New Providence in Nassau, Bahamas, “Ocean Atlas” by Jason deCaires Taylor referenc- es the ancient Greek sculpture of Atlas holding the heavens, but depicts a young Bahamian girl sustaining the ceiling of the ocean. The largest single sculpture ever to be deployed underwa- ter, it reaches from the sea floor five metres to the surface and weighs over 60 tonnes. sioned by the Bahamas Reef Environment Educational Foundation, aims to create an under- water sculpture garden in honor of its founder, Sir Nicholas Nuttall. It includes other sculptural works by local artists Willicey Tynes and Andret John and an artificial reef DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 vices andmaintenancetoadministrativeservices,portmanagement,registries, yachting sector.Associatedareaswithgrowthpotentialrangefromdocksideser- ture inthepipeline,therearenumerousinvestmentopportunitiesregion’s world. WithnewmarinassuchasChristopheHarbourandotheryachtinginfrastruc- Vincent &theGrenadines. Conference visit www.goodsamaritanofhaiti.comorseeusonFacebook. more boatsandcrewstoparticipateactivitiesonIle-à-Vache. Originally scheduledforthismonth,theflotillawillnowbeinMarch/Apriltoallow and participatinginaweekofworkshopsfocusingonhealthconstruction. yachts tosailfromtheVirginIslandsIle-à-Vache,deliveringdonatedequipment scholarships forhighereducation,clinicsandmore.Weareformingasmallgroupof lages ofIle-à-Vache,Haiti,withaprimaryschool,adulteducation,artisantraining, you justcan’tresist! Elizabeth), orbyattendingtheauctionitselfandbiddingforthatraregem school hours,oratWallace&Co.ChandleryandFishingSuppliesinPort gently useditems(donationscanbedroppedoffattheschoolduringregular and handicrafts,unwantedgifts,householdgoods,jewelryothernewor directly totheschool. 1:00PM sharp.Donatedfoodanddrinkwillbeonsale,withallproceedsgoing Bequia onSunday,February8th.Viewingstartsat12:00noonandtheauction auction willbeheldattheGingerbreadRestaurantonwaterfrontinBelmont, of incomefortheschool—andahugesourcefunallwhoattend.The2015 needs. TheannualSailors’&Landlubbers’Auctionhasbecomeasignificantsource pillaged goods. this heritage,refrainfromitscommercialexploitationandfightillicittraffickingin area. StatesthatratifytheConvention—49todateundertakesafeguard water heritageaswellsupportingresearchandinternationalcooperationinthis 2001, theConventionaimstoensureprotectionandsafeguardingofunder- Protection ofUnderwaterCulturalHeritage,whichHaitihasratified.Adoptedin archaeological sites,andtomeetthestandardsofUNESCO’sConventionon regard totheattributionofauthorizationsforexcavationunderwater tive measurestoenhancetheprotectionofunderwaterheritage,notablywith inventory ofothermajorwrecksinthearea.ItalsocallsonHaititoadoptlegisla- — The EasternCaribbeanisundeniablyoneofthebestsailingdestinationsin Eustace TheoWallacereports:AnEasternCaribbeanInternationalYachting Eastern CaribbeanInternationalYachtingConference For [email protected], Mandy Thodyreports:GoodSamaritanFoundationofHaiti,Inc.worksinseveralvil- Good Samaritan’sIle-à-VacheFlotillaPostponed For moreinformationvisitwww.bequiasunshineschool.org. Lend yoursupportbydonatingitemsfortheauctionsuchasboatgear,art The BequiaSunshineSchoolisanon-profitorganizationforchildrenwithspecial Sailors’ &Landlubbers’AuctioninBequia The reportrecommendsfurtherexplorationtofindthe Continued frompreviouspage

has beenscheduledtotakeplaceApril28thand29th,2015,inSt. Santa Maria anddrawan gmail.com or(322)534-2611. Ishmael [email protected]@ Yachting Conferenceasasponsor,exhibitor,speakerordelegatecontactDr.Len business developmentopportunities. away fromtheusualroundofindustryeventsandwithemphasisfirmlyonnew and debate,theconferencewillalsoofferauniquemeetingforumforindustry, growth potentialofthisexcitingregion.Withplentytimeallowedfornetworking for senior-levelyachtingexecutivesinterestedinlearningmoreabouttheuntapped international investors. development fortheregion,whilesimultaneouslyofferingopportunitieslocaland how thegrowthofyachtsectorwillgenerateeconomicgrowth,stabilityand yachting industry. national shippingregistriesandflagchoice,aswellfiscalincentivesforthe training opportunities,jointmarketingfortheregion’syachtingindustryandinter- opments inthesuperyachtindustry,conciergeservicesandprovisioning,crew regulatory frameworks,markettrendsandcompetitioninglobalyachting,devel- region asahubforsuperyachts,yachtingandtourismbranding,harmonizationof structure andancillaryservicesthetransformationofEasternCaribbean Eastern Caribbeanfortheirbusinesses. with arealopportunitytodiscussandanalyzethepotentialrepresentedby region’s attractiontotheinternationalyachtingindustry,whileprovidingdelegates event ontheinternationalyachtingcalendar,conferencewillshowcase Eastern CaribbeanInternationalYachtingConference.Plannedasanannual partnership withQuaynoteCommunicationsthereforeannouncetheinaugural senting Dominica,St.Kitts&Nevis,LuciaandVincenttheGrenadinesin and ancillaryservices. insurance, regulation,maritimelawandoceansgovernance,corporateservices contributions to and madetheislandstheirhome.ManythankstoMelindaLeeforallofyour Corner. BothofthesetalentedwomenarrivedintheWindwardIslandsbysailboat, umnists, MelindaParkeofSailor’sHoroscopesandLeeKessellCruisingKids’ month’s issueof the MarketPlacesection.Goodtohaveyouwithus! the Grenadines,onpage33;andBugzBGoneofSt.Vincent&in Services ofSt.Martin/St.Maarten,onpages21and28;MarineWorldVincent& With thisissueof Farewell, MelindaandLee! For moreinformationonparticipatingintheEasternCaribbeanInternational The EasternCaribbeanInternationalYachtingConferenceisamust-attendevent The “ManyIslands,OneSea”conceptwillcompriseacentraltheme,lookingat Topics tobeexploredbytheconferenceareinvestmentopportunitiesininfra- The JointMissionoftheEasternCaribbeanStatestoEuropeanUnionrepre- In thismonth’sissueof Welcome Aboard! The promisedarticleaboutacruisetotheCaymanIslandswillappearinnext Where AretheCaymans? Compass Compass Caribbean Compass Compass overtheyears. ! wewelcomenewadvertisersCaraïbesDiesel webidafondfarewelltotwolongtimecol- DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 is a 134- both ver- SSV Corwith R/V Westward Returns Returns As the designation “Sailing , a tall operated , a tall sailing SSV Corwith Cramer The satile and seaworthy were incorpo- satile and seaworthy were rated into the design of Cramer. School Vessel” indicates, this is a platform for education at sea. The designation also means there are no passengers on board, and students are integrated into the ship’s crew under the direct guidance and supervision of profes- sional mariners. After their three- week crossing, the students on board will have gained proficiency in handling sails and plotting the ship’s position (both electronically and celestially), helped prepare foot steel brigantine built as a as a foot steel brigantine built under research vessel for operation after sail. The vessel was named was SEA’s founding director, and spe- designed by Wooden & Marean by cifically for SEA. Constructed Spain, ASTACE in 1987 in Bilbao, origi- the qualities that made SEA’s nal vessel bottles that collect seawater from

SEA EDUCATION ASSOCIATION for the duration of the voyage. and (unfortunately) plastic; devices to will move on to St. Maarten where stu- niskin Cramer Cramer

SSV Corwith Cramer Sargassum has visited Dominica on numerous occasions, and once has visited Dominica on numerous occasions, and once SSV Corwith Cramer is well-equipped for oceanographic research with nets to collect is well-equipped for oceanographic research with nets for ‘Colonization to for ‘Colonization SSV Corwith Cramer Corwith Cramer SSV Corwith Around the 9th of December, the Around the 9th While every SEA Semester program is unique, given the emphasis placed on stu- Colonization to Conservation in the Caribbean is one of several programs offered The From Dominica, the The follows six intensive The six-week “sea component” of this SEA Semester program Community outreach and direct involvement with the communities through ship Conservation in the Caribbean’ in Conservation by SEA Semester/Sea Education Association of Woods Hole, Massachusetts, USA, of Woods Hole, Massachusetts, Education Association by SEA Semester/Sea crossing the Atlantic from the Canary Islands. On board will arrive at Dominica after 30 which, in addition to professional crew and visiting will be a working crew of students from colleges and universities across researchers, includes undergraduate are enrolled in a SEA Semester study abroad pro- the United States. The students of to Conservation in the Caribbean. The central aspect gram entitled Colonization of cultural and environmental sustainability issues this program is an examination projects delve into modern issues facing resi- in the Lesser Antilles. Student-driven to history of the region from Columbus’s voyages dents with an eye to the complex as a tourist destination. the advent of the Caribbean dent-driven research in areas of their choosing, this particular program has benefited from the invaluable contributions of Dr. Clare Morrall, Director of the Marine Biology Program at St. George’s University, Grenada. Dr. Morrall, during her sabbatical, has chosen to join the faculty and offer lectures on a series of current environmental issues for the Caribbean ranging from protection of terrestrial endangered species, to coping with the effects of climate change and the establishment of marine protected areas. Dr. Morrall will be on board the by Sea Education Association that raises awareness and directs research into efforts to develop or maintain initiatives for sustainable growth in coastal and island com- munities. Students build an understanding of the complexities of balancing eco- nomic growth with the preservation of culture and history of maritime populations in the Caribbean as well as other island and coastal communities throughout the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. dents will have similar opportunities for a guided introduction to both the Dutch and French culture there and time to explore and observe on their own. The program will wrap up in St. Croix, USVI, and the ship will await the arrival of a new group of students taking part in the next SEA Semester program focused on Caribbean resources and sustainable development. small plankton and fish, drifting sessions and field trips. weeks at the SEA campus in Woods Hole with classroom the ship; the sailing ves- The sea component is not limited to time spent on board academic activities at each sel’s community of learners also engages in scheduled port stop. visits are a central part of SEA Semester programs and typically include local beach cleanups, presentations to school-age children and cooperative efforts with local community and environmental advocates. On a previous trip to Dominica, this included a visit to the ship by the Minister of Tourism, the Honourable Ian Douglas, who shared his insights into the modern history of the island as well as his knowl- edge of the unique local flora and fauna. meals and assisted in the maintenance of shipboard equipment. record salinity and temperature and 12 and record ocean bathyme- various depths; several devices that sample the seafloor that measures ocean cur- try; and a hull-mounted acoustic Doppler current profiler microscopes, networked com- rents as deep as 600 metres. The lab is outfitted with the chemical proper- puters, and myriad instruments allowing students to determine dissolved oxygen, and ocean ties of the seawater they collect including pH, nutrients, all manner of independent productivity. With these resources, students can explore acidification, sea level change, research questions relating to climate change, ocean blooms, and marine pollu- biodiversity and fisheries, invasive species, harmful algal tion, to name but a few. will continue with three the ship arrives, the island-focused aspects of the program opportunity ashore to fur- full days on the “Nature Island”. Students will have the that center on the efforts ther their understanding of current issues including those island nation with the recog- to balance the income concerns of the people of this Dominica unique. This will nized need to preserve the natural resources that make interactions with residents be facilitated by presentations by local experts and direct physical environment. of Dominica and first-hand observation of the island’s Working with long-time collaborator and local tour coordinator Jeff Frank, the fac- ulty have arranged guided tours including a visit to the cultural interpretation cen- ter for the Kalinago people, and time for directed research into the specific circum- stances of Dominica including management of forestry resources, preservation of resident culture and endemic species, and the management and protection of marine ecosystems. DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 impeccable customerservice. Simply put,everybodyintheCaribbean knows themfortheirqualityproductsand their reputationasaleaderinthemarine productsdistributorarenaspeaksforitself. During thattime,atruefriendshiphasgrown betweenIWWandSeaHawkPaints. ucts comingoutofSeaHawkPaints,including theirnewepoxysystem,HawkEpoxy. Coatings/Sea HawkPaintsproductlineand helpstopromotenewinnovativeprod- parts forthecompletePerkinsenginerange. can supply,installandservicePerkinsengines.Theyalsostocksupplyspare supply sparepartsforthecompleteNorthernLightsrange.AsPerkinsdealersthey they cansupply,installandserviceNorthernLightsgenerators.Theyalsostock and thenewPerkinsdealerinSt.Thomas,USVirginIslands. spare parts.PlanBGeneratorshasbeenappointedthenewNorthernLightsdealer ment ofanewdealerforNorthernLightsgeneratorsandPerkinsEngines industrial andmarineproductsbrands,isdelightedtoannouncetheappoint- islandwaterworld.com/page.htm?PG=catalog. sands ofnewandknownproducts.Fittingout?Needgiftideas?Checkitoutat tripsforabout12guestsandprivatecharters. Rhum (as versatile, butalsodurableandeasyto(re)install! but concedethatsurvivalduringGonzalosupportsEZDock’sclaimtobenotonly them andtheylookasnewdaywereinstalled. Budget Marinearewellovertenyearsold.Millionsofpeoplehavewalked and areUVresistant,requiringminimalmaintenance.ThemajorityoftheEZDocksat fied firmness.Inthetropicalsunbuoyantdocksectionsremaincoolunderfoot sections tomoveindependentlyunderhigh-stressconditions,whilestillprovidinguni- Caribbean-suitable dockproduct. has reconfirmedtheconfidencethatBudgetMarineinthisinnovativeand imal cost.ThelatteristheEZDocksolutionandHurricaneGonzaloexperience a dockthatbreaksupinplannedfashionandcanbeeasilyreconstructedatmin- hit thePortdePlaisancedockinHurricaneGonzalo.Theotherapproachistohave but eventhentherecanbesubstantialdamage,asoccurredwhenacargovessel quickly re-positioneddock. turned outthatdamagewasminimal,ascanbeseeninthephotographof Maarten hadaswell.Butafterwards,whenthestill-intactsectionswerecollected,it Hurricane Gonzalo.InitiallyitseemedasiftheEZDocksatBudgetMarineSint issue of charter boat moored inSimpsonBayandoperatedbyAldoNV,whichownsthewell-knownday Bay, St.Maarten.Itwillbeusedfordaycharterssoon. BUSINESS BRIEFS IWW isoneofthelargestdistributorsSea HawkproductsintheCaribbean,and For over15yearsIslandWaterWorld(IWW) hasbeenadistributorofNewNautical Sea HawkPresentsAwardtoIslandWater World For moreinformationonParts&Power’sPerkinsenginesseeadthispage. For [email protected]. Plan BismanagedbyRandyBerryandZachHachem.AsNorthernLightsdealers Parts &Power,theBritishVirginIslands-basedCaribbeandistributorfornumerous Plan BisNorthernLights/PerkinsDealerinSt.Thomas For moreinformationonIslandWaterWorldseeadpage48. Also, IWW’snew2015catalogueisnowonlineandreadyfordownload,withthou- Arawak IWW SponsorsArawak For moreinformationonBudgetMarineseeadpage2. At BudgetMarinewewouldprefernottotestproductsviathehurricanemethod, Robust polyethyleneconstructionandrevolutionaryconnectioncouplersallowthe There areclearlytwoapproachesfordocksurvival.Oneistobuilditveryheavily, Budget Marinereports:ManymarinasinSt.MaartensuffereddamageOctober’s EZ DocksHandledHurricaneGonzalo Capable ofspeedsupto30knotsandweighingonly2.5tons, Compass , a52-footcatamaran,originallybuiltforandsailedinthe1988Routedu Casino Bluebeard ) hasbeenfullyrefurbished,wassplashedinOctoberandasthis goestopresswasmooredonIslandWaterWorld’sT-dockinCole (www.bluebeardcharters.com ) . Plansaretoofferthree-hour Continued onnextpage Arawak willbe DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 [email protected] , you can your bucket list your bucket . Starting in October 2015, the in October . Starting Picton Castle Picton (narrated by Paul Aulridge; see a review at Transatlantic Voyage ic on a square-rigger is on ic on a square-rigger contributor Ed Teja is a boat bum, magazine editor, freelance writer, The Legend of Ron Añejo Compass Continued from previous page Continued from Rodney Bay Marina Readies for the Season most popular sailing Alana Mathurin reports: As the 29th edition of the world’s its washrooms and other Over the last few months the Marina has been upgrading the lagoon and the mari- Rodney Bay Marina has increased security in and around complement our free ser- We have also introduced a premium service internet to For more information visit www.igy-rodneybay.com. Talking Caribbean In telling stories of the Caribbean, how things are said is almost as much a part of Along with Providencia’s Bush Agency Adds Staff The Bernardo B. Bush Howard Maritime Agency in Providencia, Colombia — better For more information contact [email protected]. AnnouncesTall ShipNew IWW takes great pride in its products and service, just as Sea Hawk’s Research and products and service, just as Sea Hawk’s Research and IWW takes great pride in its Paints, was established in 1978.New Nautical Coatings, Inc., manufacturer of Sea Hawk page 48. For more information on Island Water World see ad on 23. For more information on Sea Hawk Paints see ad on page Nauti Solutions in Grenada center in Grenada for Danny Gray reports: Nauti Solutions, your one stop service work: hull cleaning, We at Underwater Solutions can also offer all your underwater repairs, teak decks, Also at Driftwood Fine Woodwork we offer all your woodwork water from Port Louis Marina. We are on Lagoon Road, St. George’s, just across the Place section, pages For more information on Nauti Solutions see ad in the Market Former Norbert Thomas is the premier Jamaican/Caribbean voice-over artist with over 20 You can find ‘The Rum Shop’ at If sailing the across Atlant — at many racing teams and IWW have co-sponsored Sea Hawk Paints Exhibition IBEX (International Boatbuilders was in Tampa for the 2014 Recently, IWW For more information visit picton-castle.com. The IWW crew at Sea Hawk’s manufacturing facility The IWW crew at Sea Hawk’s event, the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), sets sail, St. Lucia prepares to receive event, the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), sets sail, St. The rally is expected to bring and play host to hundreds of sailors and their families. Bay Marina will be buzzing 242 boats. During the month of December, IGY Rodney painting and a variety of with live music, folk dancers, local arts, craft booths, face local food and drinks. IGY believes that the facili- parts of the facility to cater to the needs of its customers. best to create an ty is a home away from home for sailors, so it does its utmost atmosphere that is welcoming and relaxing. VHF radios, so that visiting na, as well as ensuring that the security company has any suspicious activity. yachtsmen can contact them immediately if they witness to kick back and stream your vice. This provides up to 15 MB per boat, allowing you favourite movie without leaving your vessel. the texture as the descriptions of the people and the place. To capture that aspect, Float Street Press (www.floatstreetpress) has partnered with Caribbean voice-over artist Norbert Thomas to bring Ed Teja’s short story ‘The Rum Shop’ to life. known to cruisers as “Mister Bush” — has added Jean-Paul Bush Romero and Alex Newball Archbold to its staff. Jean-Paul is a specialist in the logistics of international merchandise transportation, and Alex is a specialist in maritime law. visiting, Sea Hawk took great pleasure in presenting a “Partnership Excellence visiting, Sea Hawk took great Hawk’s way of saying “thanks for being great business Award” to IWW. This was Sea the years.” partners and true friends over in its never-ending pursuit of innovative marine Development Team takes pride epoxy solutions to solve contemporary problems. coatings, repair supplies and with new formulas to provide peak performance “We’re constantly experimenting said Erik Norrie, CEO of Sea Hawk Paints. “From and simplify application processes,” to bio-engineered technologies, we have consis- environmentally friendly solutions tently created new, ground-breaking products every year.” and fabrication, also mechanical repairs, deck gear, plumbing, electrical, welding We can also look after your offers yacht delivery service, short and long distances. all your bits and pieces. boat long and short term, and have storage sheds for rudder bearings, cutlass replacing through-hull fittings, removing rudders and doing bearings, props and more, saving a haulout. hatches, cockpit tables, anything wood or plastic. six days a week and a Much is happening in Grenada: there is a VHF net at 0730 Grenada Cruisers Facebook page with lots of info. 42 to 45. www.audiofilemagazine.com/reviews/read/95264), the story of the world’s best Caribbean boat bum, ‘The Rum Shop’ is available through Amazon, Audible.com and iTunes. poet, musician and traveler. He writes about the places he knows, places that lie in the margins of the world. Boats, islands and remote tropical places are his natural habitat. years in media communications. https://itunes.apple.com/us/audiobook/the-rum-shop-unabridged/id933155673 and at www.amazon.com/The-Rum-Shop/dp/B00OUQMP6W. You can find all of Ed Teja’s audiobooks at www.audible.com/Author=Ed+Teja. the tall ship goal aboard that achieve regattas throughout the Caribbean. And it’s through this partnership that both com- it’s through this partnership the Caribbean. And regattas throughout within their fields. even wider recognition panies have enjoyed Sea Hawk for them to tour the which provided an opportunity and Conference), IWW’s Managing Florida. Sean Kennelly, facility in Clearwater, Paints’ manufacturing they were were in the group. While James Dickerson, IWW’s Principal, Director, and award-winning sail will make a full circle of the Atlantic, including two two including the Atlantic, of circle make a full ship will sail training award-winning ports in the Azores, Spain, Along the way, call at sailing passages. transatlantic six- the full may sign on for sailors , Senegal and the West Indies. Trainee leg the voyage. of a three-month or for month voyage DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 The Bequia Tourism Association presents: Saturday 24th-12.30pm@ Call (784)456-2602. beyond, andmore. AT BASIL’S: Call(784)457-2713. some ofthebestonisland.Nowofferingfullcateringservices. conditioned, youwillenjoycocktailsmostdelightful,thestaffwelcomingandmealsare BASIL’S BAR: Visitors toStVincent areinvitedto: efficiently arranged.Call(784)488-8407. pieces, homefurnishings,fabulouslightingaccessoriesandmore.Shippingiseasily Across Forever hasamagnificentcollectionoffurniturefromAsiaandbeyond,contemporary ACROSS FOREVER: Call (784)488-8407. Imported cigarsandanunusualcollectionofbooksnottobemissed.Fine foodsinParadise. Store. Bountifullystocked withfineFrench wines,cheesefromEurope,gourmetjamsandsauces. BASIL’S GREAT GENERAL STORE: take home.Basil’sBoutiquealsoofferssilverandgemstonejewelry. Elegant islandeveningandplayfuldaywear. For women,menandchildren,plus lotsofT-shirts to BASIL’S BOUTIQUE Festival takes placefromJanuary21-February 4,2015.Call(784)488-8350orVHF68. BBQ. Basil’sBarishomeoftheonlyBluesFestival MustiqueBlues intheCaribbean.Nextyear’s late. CometoBasil’sforcocktailsanytimeandplanattendtheWednesday NightJumpUpand beginsat8:00am.Lunch11:00am-6pm,andDinner7:30until up ontheweb.Breakfastservice the bestbeefburgerinCaribbean.EquippedwithWIFI,youcanenjoysunsetcocktailsandcatch of Basil’sBarinMustiqueisallthatandmore:offeringfreshseafood,lobsterseason,steaks Best Barsin1987byNewsweekandtodaylivesuptothattradition.Recently renovated,thenewface BASIL’S BARANDRESTAURANT: Visitors toMustiqueareinvitedto:

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Basil’s Bar Mustique HELP TRACK HUMPBACK WHALE HELP HUMPBACK MIGRATION TRACK I f Y within theregionandtoworld. development ofsailing,coordinatingtheracecalendar,andpromotingsportboth having theCSAserveimportantrolesofprovidingaratingsystem,helping coordinate allaspectsofsailingintheregion.Themembersconfirmedtheirgoal of theCSA,particularlyincontinuingtodefineitsroleasonebodythatcanhelp region moreattractivetolocalandinternationalsailors. and sponsorship,howtocontinueworkingtogetherhelpmaketheCaribbean taking stepsintherightdirection,alongwithawillingnesstodojustthat. of a“CleanRegatta”.DelegateslefttheConferencearmedwithtoolkitideasfor workshop onenvironmentalsustainabilityandhowregattascanachievethestatus people sailingthroughouttheCaribbean,frombeginnertoadvancedlevel. bring acoordinatedapproachtosailingdevelopmentachievethegoalofgettingmore each island,TimCrosswillbementoringtheCaribbeanregionalongsideCSAto from grassrootsthroughtoadvancedtraining.Startingwithaneedsassessmentof Antigua’s NationalSailingAcademyhostedworkshopsonthedevelopmentofsport encourage interestandparticipationinthesportofsailingCaribbean. that ownsandadministerstheCSARatingRuleexiststogovern,promote experts indevelopingsailingprograms. mat thisyearthatincludedCSAofficers,measurers,regattaorganizersand from aroundtheCaribbeanconvenedatConference,whichfeaturedanewfor- 24th through26thatAntiguaYachtClub,EnglishHarbour,Antigua.Fiftydelegates of theConference. well ashostrestaurantClubSushiandalltheteamsthatcontributedtosuccess Antigua YachtClubMarinaResort,Club,DigicelandQuinFarara, as Haycraft, PamFullerandChiefMeasurerJeffreyChen. Torres andKathyLammers.JoiningthemarenewofficersEllenBirrell,Chris will becontributinggreatlytooursport,andregion.” body tohelpconnectourgrassrootssailingthroughinternationalregattas, we and eventstohelpgrowoursportislandeconomies.Ifwecanserveas the most proudofthisinitiativetheCSAtoachievecooperationamongallislands roof foraweekendofmeetings,strategysessions,andgeneralnetworking.Weare ence. Ourgoalwastogetallthekeyplayersandstakeholderstogetherunderone such positivefeedbackfromalltheparticipantsonthisnewformatofourconfer- San SebastianVelaCupRegatta,PuertoRico. Discover theCaribbeanRegatta,PuertoRico,Melges32Association,and de Voile,ChercheSportBas-du-Fort,BorinquenIslandsSailingAssociation, Antigua, MountGayRoundBarbadosRaceSeries,EduardoLentz,LeGuadeloupe sport andourislandeconomies’ ‘Our goalwastogetallthekeyplayersandstakeholderstogether…helpgrowour rom the Caribbeanrom the are cr region NTERESTED our contributions p our contributions of tailfluke The AGMsegmentoftheconferenceincludedimportantdiscussionsonallaspects The regattaorganizers’segmentincludedsessionsonracemanagement,marketing Also inattendancewasthenewCSAsponsorSailorsforSea,whichhelda Tim CrossfromtheInternationalSailingFederation(ISAF)andElizabethJordanof The CaribbeanSailingAssociationisanon-profitorganizationregisteredinAnguilla The CaribbeanSailingAssociation(CSA)AnnualConferencetookplaceOctober For moreinformationvisitwww.caribbean-sailing.com. The CSAthanksitssponsorsSailorsfortheSea,LIAT,AntiguaSailingWeek, Alongside PeterHolmberg,re-electedboardmembersareAlisonSly-Adams,Jaime Re-elected PresidentPeterHolmbergcommented,“Itwasverygratifyingtoreceive New membersjoiningtheCSAduringConferencewereSuperyachtChallenge It’s AboutGrowingSailing: CONFERENCE CSA ANNUAL in Helping? Go to Go in Helping? hotographs ofhumpback whales itical for conservation efforts. itical forconservation www. CARIB TAILS.org DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11

PETER MARSHALL … cap- Taz, goes to press, Tulaichean II, Compass —Continued on next page

the Island Water World Grenada best performing yacht in 2014,

, the Beneteau 38 Apero Jaguar, the Hobie33 that placed second in 2014, and the RP37 , the Beneteau Oceanis 461 that gave her a run for her money. Also 29 Jan - 3 Feb 2015 2015 - 3 Feb Jan 29

www.grenadasailingweek.com www.grenadasailingweek.com

Category 5, Chao Lay Previous top contenders are coming back to defend their places. In Racing Class Previous top contenders are coming back to defend their One of the biggest draws is the opportunity to break records. The headline event is One of the biggest draws is the opportunity to break records. hospitality will be in As expected at the home of Mount Gay Rum, fine Caribbean For more information see ad on page 13. Register Now for Grenada Sailing Week 2015 ON THE HORIZON… Barbados Series 2015 Mount Gay Round January 16th Race Series 2015, the Mount Gay Round Barbados Sign up now for of record- new race format and plenty re-launched in 2014 with a This event was Tourism in association with the Barbados the Barbados Cruising Club Organized by 16 boats from eight different countries are already registered and many more have 16 boats from eight different countries are already registered expressed their intention to do so. will be Sailing Week January 29th through February 3rd, things are heating up for an espe- Sailing Week January 29th through February 3rd, things of cially spicy event, both on and off the water. As this issue the 60-nautical-mile Mount Gay Round Barbados Race on January 21st, in which the 60-nautical-mile Mount Gay Round Barbados Race currently 14 record catego- teams race to set Round Barbados Records. There are Extra Old Rum if broken. ries, all of which offer the skipper’s weight in Mount Gay including the legendary full flow throughout the week with a party every night, lay-day activities in 2014, Mount Gay Red Cap party. Following the success of the exhibition match, and a the organizers have lined up another Barbados Polo Club visit to Mount Gay Distilleries. Ruth Lund reports: With just a few weeks to go to through 24th! fleet is expect- success that an even bigger It proved such a breaking opportunities. ed in 2015. Gay the established Mount Mount Gay, the Series encompasses Authority and a series of coastal races, and a final 300-mile sprint to Round Barbados Race plus Challenge. Antigua to tie up with the Superyacht tained by Bernie Even-Wong, the Frers 43 and keen racer-cruisers on the Albin Stratus 36

KENZO SZYJAN

na! in Gre ad (September 28th)

(September 27th) Spice it up up it Spice (September 27th) (September 28th) Dennis Bernadine Dennis Bernadine

3) Rees Evans and Noah Bullen 3) Ted Richards and Joel Phillip GYC Lagoon Race Series 1) Israel Darangit and Kimron Marshall 2) Kwesi Paul and Moses Simon 3) Kemon Charles and Kemo Sampson GYC Lagoon Race Series 1) Kwesi Paul and Moses Simon 2) Israel Darangit and Kimron Marshall 3) Ted Richards and Joel Phillip St. George’s to Gouyave Race 1) Kemon Charles and Kemo Sampson 2) Leroy and Carlos Aguilar Match Race Cancelled for 2014 announces the can- Carol Bareuther reports: The Virgin Islands Sailing Association “It was a very difficult decision to cancel this year’s match race, however we all For more information visit www.carlosmatchrace.com. The organizers thank the following for their support: Catfish Inc., Gouyave Sailing The organizers thank the following for their support: Catfish Gouyave to St. George’s Race 1) Israel Darangit and Kimron Marshall 2) Leroy and The results were:

Grenada’s New Catfish 14 Regatta Grenada’s New has joined — the Catfish 14 Regatta — A new sailing event Sarah Baker reports: the new fleet of Catfish 14 dinghies that has been The event, created to showcase eight boats sailed by 16 young crewmembers from The first event saw a fleet of REGATTA NEWS REGATTA cellation of the 2014 Carlos Aguilar Match Race. Plans are underway to resume this cellation of the 2014 Carlos Aguilar Match Race. Plans female match racers and regatta, which has welcomed the world’s top male and has been held for the past six years in late November/early December, in 2015. felt that a watered-down version of this great event due to lack of sufficient spon- sorship was not the way to go,” explains regatta director, Bill Canfield. “At the same time, this is a wonderful time for us to reach out to new sponsors.” School, Grenada Yacht Club, Budget Marine, Horizon Yacht Charters, Glenelg Spring School, Grenada Yacht Club, Budget Marine, Horizon Yacht Festival. Thanks also goes to Water, Grenada Sailing Association and Grenada Sailing of the safety boat. ‘Feb’, Emroll Banfield and ‘Tombay’, the skipper and crew Grenada’s sailboat racing calendar, thanks to a joint initiative among Grenada to a joint initiative among racing calendar, thanks Grenada’s sailboat School and Catfish Inc., a Gouyave-based company Yacht Club, Gouyave Sailing building fiberglass boats. over two days, September 27th and 28th, combining built in Gouyave, was staged and St. George’s and shorter, more tactical races long races between Gouyave mouth of St. George’s Lagoon. around a set at the Grenada Yacht Club. Conditions were mixed and chal- Gouyave Sailng School and of and crew through their paces, showing the potential lenging and put both boats the skills of the young sailors. this new design of dinghy and DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 42 event istheBeneteauFirst47.7 special attentionisbeinggiventothecourseshelpgrowthisclass.New to includeMarcoRodolfi’sSwan80 ClubSwan, RolexandtheYachtClubCostaSmeralda.Thisyear’sentrylistisexpected successful debutin2013,runsfromMarch3rdthrough7thandisorganizedby waters withineasyreachofthecoastline. the event.RaceOfficerPaulMillerwillbesettingpaceoutsideJollyHarbour www.regattaguru.com andBudgetMarinehavealsogiventheirvaluedsupportto an openinvitationextendedtoyachtsfromneighbouringislands.Raceorganizer expected tobeamajorattractionforisland-wideandoverseasparticipants,with Harbour Valentine’sRegatta2015isscheduledforFebruary13ththrough15th.It only forgrandprixracing,butalsofunandfriendlyrallyingcruisers,theJolly Jolly HarbourYachtClubValentine’sRegattaforthenextthreeyears.Knownnot For moreinformationseeadonpage11. minisite?series_id=100083#Entries. motto: SeriousFun. world-class partiesandmusicalentertainment.Eachyeartheeventlivesuptoits has showcasedthetopboatsandsailing,becomeequallyfamousforits March 5ththrough8th.Foroverthreedecades,theSt.MaartenHeinekenRegatta plan tointroduceanextraraceontheSunday,dependingweatherconditions. event results.Inadditiontoopeningupthepre-eventallregattasailorsorganizers results, allowingsailorstopracticeandperfecttheirracingwithoutinfluencingmain inviting allregattaentriestotakepart. only, butforthe35theditionofSt.MaartenHeinekenRegatta,organizersare ries (excludingLotteryClass).Thispre-eventusedtobeopenspinnakerboats their pre-event,theGillCommodore’sCup,isacceptingentriesinallboatcatego- Caribbean Trophywillbepresentedtotheoverallwinner. for thefirst,secondandthirdoverallSwanineachclass,RolexCup already entered. (Grenada) There willbeaOneDesignClassforJ/24swith her ratingthatshecanneverbediscounted. … theBeneteauFirst35 — Wendy Schmidt’sSwan80 The second edition of the Rolex Swan Cup Caribbean in Virgin Gorda, which had its The secondeditionoftheRolexSwanCupCaribbeaninVirginGorda,whichhadits Swan CupCaribbeaninVirginGorda For [email protected]. Jody Sallons-Dayreports:MountGayRumandBanksBeerwillsponsorAntigua’s New SponsorsforAntigua’sValentine’sRegatta For NoticeofRaceandmoreinformationvisitwww.heinekenregatta.com. You canentertheraceviaRegattaGuruatwww.regattaguru.com/heineken/ Entries arenowopenforthe35thSt.MaartenHeinekenRegatta,takingplacefrom Entries OpenforSt.MaartenHeinekenRegatta For moreinformationvisitwww.heinekenregatta.com. The GillCommodore’sCuptakesplaceonMarch5th,andwillmaintainindividual The St.MaartenHeinekenRegatta,March5ththrough8th,2015,announcesthat Gill Commodore’sCupWidensEntries For moreinformationvisitwww.nautorswan.com. A RolextimepiecewillbeawardedtothefirstoverallSwanineachclass,trophies Continued frompreviouspage C-Mos fromTrinidad,althoughhercrewhasparticipatedbefore. Ambushe The BluePeter, (Trinidad), Cricket Selene and EH01 Isis 2014ClassicClasswinner,willbebackin2015and andDevinMcGranahan’sSwan56 (Barbados), Berenice Bis andthiswillalsobeafirsttimefortheSoverel Rasmus , theveteranSwanthatsailssowellto Island WaterWorldDieHard , DonMacpherson’sSwan90 Buffalo Soldier and Attitude King Daddy

(St Lucia) Freya .

, TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM / WRIGHT TIM The regattawillbeheldMay8thto10th,intheweekfollowingAntiguaSailingWeek. ties andawiderprogramofonshoreactivitiesforcompetitors,visitorsresidents. Nevis whilealsoenjoyingthetastes,soundsandcultureoflifeashoreinNevis. The eventbringsallkindsofpeopletogethertoenjoythewatersaroundSt.Kitts& fun. Thephilosophybehindtheeventissimple:anyonecanenter;win. tor totheNevisYachtClubandyouthsailingprogram.Itisinclusive,relaxed to becomeanestablishedfixtureintheNevissailingcalendarandamajorcontribu- night ofinternationalmusicwillbeorganized. food tentsandrefreshment,aBarbecueCook-Offmore.Totopitalloff,final Sailing Association,miniatureboatraces,awalkingtourinOranjestad,livemusic, Cinema attheSchoenerHaven,SailArubaRacesorganizedby during SailAruba.Participatingvesselswillbeopenforthepublictovisit. vessels (theso-calledtallships),classicschoonersandotheryachtstovisitAruba Caribbean SailTrainingFoundationandAmsterdamwillencouragesailtraining Arena, aswellthesurroundingwatersthatfallunderportjurisdiction.The Oranjestad. TheactivitieswillbeopentothepublicandencompassHarbor Day oftheDutchMarineCorps,istobeheldfromMay1stthrough3rdatPort tions arescheduledtotakeplaceuntilOctober2015throughouttheentirekingdom. gastronomy andawelcomebeyondcompare.” shore, aswell,thankstotheevent’s‘FrenchTouch’,whichtranslatesmarvelous that themostdemandingracersdreamofonwater.Thissentimentisechoed rounding isletsserveasperfectcoursemarks.Inshort,St.Barthhasalltheingredients tradewinds atvaryingdegrees,”saysorganizerFrançoisTolède.“Thenumeroussur- Voiles deSt.Barth.Nofewerthan80boatsand1,000sailorsareexpectedtocompete. Antigua SailingWeek. oped, whichwillincludearegattainMartinique,theTriskellCupRegattaand Guadeloupe. enchanting neighboringislandsofMarieGalanteandlesSaintes,backto March 11ththrough15th. place ontheracingcalendar.The2015datesforTriskellCupRegattawillbe For moreinformationvisitwww.boobyislandregatta.com. In 2015theregattawillexpandtoathree-dayeventwithmoresailing,biggerpar- From humblebeginningsin2008,theBoobyIslandRegattahasgrownpopularity Nevis’s BoobyIslandRegatta&SailingFestival For moreinformationvisitwww.sailaruba.com. During theweekend,visitorswillbeabletoenjoyaSeafoodFestival,Sail-In The largesteventinAruba,whichwillbeplannedaroundtheannualOpenHouse Commemorating the200-yearexistenceofKingdomNetherlands,celebra- ‘Sail ’atOranjestadinMay For moreinformationvisitwww.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com. “In St.Barth,webenefitfromanextraordinaryplayingfield,whichisexposedtothe From April13ththrough18th,2015,SaintBarthélemywillhostthesixtheditionofLes Les VoilesdeSt.Barth For moreinformationseeadonpage13. The eventislikelytobecomeoneofthreeregattasinanewseriesbedevel- The multi-destinationeventwilltakeparticipantsfromGosier,Guadeloupetothe With anewformat,theever-popularTriskellCupRegattawillalsohave Triskell CupRegattaontheMove! DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14

Y. ZEDDA independently, rangingfromtinyprivateyachtstothe East CoastboundfortheEasternCaribbean.Inadditiontothosevesselssailing and eightminutes. course fromSt.Malo,FrancetoPointe-à-Pitre,Guadeloupeofsevendays,15hours maxi trimaran Route duRhumsinglehandedtransatlanticraceaboardthe103-foot(31.5-metre) World ARC2015-16andthenewPacificOdysseyplantolureafewaway! events belowalonepromisetobringnearly600boatstheislands—evenas this month’scover(seestoryonpage7),racesandralliesbringboatsenmasse.The Spindrift 2 holder andlargestracingtrimaranintheworld,YannGuichard’s130-foot(40-metre) 40s. Thebiggestboatinthefleetwascurrentoutrightround-the-worldrecord trimarans, nineOpen60s,11Multi5020RhumClassboatsand41 array ofocean-racinghardwareeverassembledinoneplace”—includingeightmaxi with a91-boatfleet—which month’s Islands, Australia,Mauritius,SouthAfricaandBrazil. part intheround-the-worldrallyviaColombia,PanamaCanal,Pacific by joiningthecircumnavigationrallyinSt.LuciaJanuary.Nineteenboatswill take every December. visiting sailors.TheARCbringssignificanteconomicandtourismdollarstoSt.Lucia festivities ashore,withthewholecommunityofGrosIletgettinginvolved the chilled beersandrumpunches.ThiswarmSt.Lucianwelcomeisjustthestartof the will takethefastestboatsaround12days,andfamilycruisers18to21days. IGY RodneyBayMarina,St.Luciaafter2,700nauticalmilesofsailing.Thisdistance November 19th. ing agreatsailforthe2,150nauticalmilepassageontoSt.Lucia,settingoff the rhumbline,island’slatitudeat16°50’Nisrightintradewindbelt,promis- Vicente, whichlies850nauticalmilessouthwestofGranCanaria.Althoughbelow ing forthedirectroute,and12inARC+. Finland. the 9.58-metreMarieholm32E the USAand13othernations:36intotal. , ,NewZealand,,Portugal,Spain,Switzerland,Sweden, Croatia, Denmark,Finland,France,theUK,,Japan,Iceland,,Malta, direct forSt.LuciaonNovember24th. in theCapeVerdeislands,tobefollowedbylargerARCfleet(190boats)bound Fifty-one boatssailingARC+departedLasPalmasonNovember9thboundforastop heading 2,700nauticalmilesacrosstheAtlantictoSt.Lucia. take partinthe29thAtlanticRallyforCruisersfromLasPalmasdeGranCanaria, ebrations, music,dancingandotherentertainment. Martinique andthehostisMarinaLeMarin. 22 days. of theCapeVerdeIslands.TheAtlantic crossing isexpectedtotakebetween14and as quicklypossible,withthehopeof picking upthetradewindsnearlatitude technical issues,bringingthetotalnumber to35. (8.5 metre) yachts rangedfromthe72-foot(21-metre) expeditionvessel Conditions wereperfectforthestart,with12knotsofwindfromnortheast. The Canary Islandsbound2,750nauticalmilesforMartiniqueintheAtlanticOdyssey. HERE THEYCOME! Every November,DecemberandJanuary,wavesofyachtsleaveEuropetheUS To startthingsoffwithabang,ocean-racingsuperstarLoickPeyronhaswonthe Record-Busting 10thRouteduRhumtoGuadeloupe FROM EUROPE On November2nd,thetentheditionofRouteduRhumracedepartedFrance We’ll haveafullreportontheARCandARC+arrivalsinStLucianext Ten ARCboatswillbecontinuingtheirsailingadventurewithWorldCruisingClub Every boatwillbewelcomedonarrival(dayornight!)withabasketoflocalfruit, The mainstartfromLasPalmasisNovember24th.ARCboatswillmakelandfall in The ARC+CapeVerderouteincludesathree-tofive-daystopoverinMindelo,Sao ARC 2014featuresoneofthemostdiversefleetsinhistorywithboatsrangingfrom This yeartheARChasboatsregisteredinAustralia,Austria,Belgium,Canada, ARC sailorshaveachoiceofrouteswiththeintroductionARC+CapeVerde. More than240boatsand1,200people,including34childrenagedunder16,will 29th AtlanticRallyforCruiserstoSt.Lucia For moreinformationvisitwww.routedurhum.com. In Guadeloupe,racerswerewelcomedwithagalaarrayofspecialanniversarycel- The MartiniquesponsoroftheAtlantic OdysseyistheRegionalCouncilof From Lanzarotemostboatsheadedsouthwest toleavetheCanaryIslandsbehind On November17th,31sailboatsflyingtheflagsof13nationsdepartedLanzarote, Atlantic OdysseySetsSailforMartinique For moreinformationvisitwww.worldcruising.com/arc. Catamarans areextremelypopularthisyear:25enteredasofwrit- Compass (ex- Gazel Rebel Banque PopulaireV Banque PopulaireVII . . Fouryachtsdepartedadaylater,having beendelayedby Latitude 38 Thalassa ) .

, settinganewoutrightrecordforthe3,500-mile magazinehascalled“themostimpressive to thesuper-maxiFarr100 Corwith Cramer Sea Dragon —Continued onnextpage to the27-foot picturedon Leopard by DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 goes Compass

: “The main reason I : “The main reason Xarifa. Caribbean Compass goes to press, ten boats have signed up. Jimmy Cornell. Starting from Le Marin Marina, Martinique on Starting from Le Marin Marina, Jimmy Cornell. Compass goes to press, ten boats have entered and 15 more have expressed interest. goes to press, ten boats have entered and 15 more have Compass Continued from previous page Continued from For more information visit www.sailopo.com. The St. George’s Dinghy & Sports Club is hosting participants who choose to stop For more information visit www.worldcruising.com/carib1500. North American Rally (NARC) to St. Maarten Also on November 3rd, after two days of waiting for a break in the weather, 18 “I usually end this evening thanking everyone and scurrying off to bed!” said event man- The ARC Caribbean 1500 fleet sailed 1,500 nautical miles to Tortola. In the slowest Despite a one-year hiatus while the Caribbean 1500 focused on the move to The bulk of the fleet was made up of cruising monohulls and multihulls in the 40- For more information visit http://saltydawgrally.org. Caribbean 1500 to Tortola and ARC Bahamas Portsmouth, Virginia as part Forty yachts headed offshore on November 3rd from The free Salty Dawg Rally is a registered 501(c)(3) not-for-profit company based in The free Salty Dawg Rally is a registered 501(c)(3) not-for-profit For more information visit www.paneraitransatclassique.com. FROM THE US EAST COAST Salty Dawg Rally to BVI Salty Dawg Rally departed With a 68-boat fleet, down from last year’s 116, the For more information visit www.sailingrallies.com/christmas-caribbean-rally. Panerai Transat Classique 2015 to Martinique 7th, the Panerai Transat Starting at Lanzarote in the Canary Islands on January As this issue of For more information visit http://rorctransatlantic.rorc.org. Christmas Caribbean Rally to Antigua 14th is the Christmas Scheduled to depart Lanzarote, Canary Islands on December For more information contact [email protected]. For more information contact RORC Transatlantic to Grenada ranging from 40 to 100 feet (12.19 to 30.48 metres) willA varied and international fleet race. The Grenada will be the destination for the finish of the 2,800-nautical-mile Boats sailing in the inaugural Pacific Odyssey in 2015 will sail in the company of Pacific Odyssey in 2015 will sail in the company Boats sailing in the inaugural The passage to the Galapagos will start immediately on completion of the Panama will start immediately on completion of the Panama The passage to the Galapagos As Jimmy pointed out in an interview with out in an interview with As Jimmy pointed Following on will be the Pacific Odyssey, a new rally aimed at sailors heading for thea new rally aimed at sailors be the Pacific Odyssey, Following on will in , while the IGY Marina Group is sponsoring the NARC finish in St. Maarten at Simpson Bay Marina. left Newport, Rhode Island to embark on a nearly 1,500-mile journey to sailboats left Newport, Rhode Island to embark on a nearly 1,500-mile journey to St. Maarten, with an optional stop in Bermuda. This was the 15th annual North American Rally to the Caribbean (NARC). The Rally is restricted to professionally crewed boats or boats that are big enough or fast enough to get to Bermuda in four to four and a half days and crewed by experienced crew who have made the passage before. Masterminded by Hank Schmitt of Offshore Passage Opportunities, the rally is free to its participants and supports the annual migration of East Coast boats heading south for the winter with either free or deeply discounted dockage at the designated rally ports, fuel discounts, weather routing, regular on-water communication through Radio Net for SSB, and last but not least, social gatherings. ager Andy Schell at the conclusion of the awards. “But we’ve got four boats coming in tonight, so we’ll be on the docks with the cold rum punch until the last boat is tied up!” year since 2011, the last boat was still at sea with nearly 100 miles to go as the ARC Caribbean 1500 prizegiving got underway on November 15th. Portsmouth, ARC Bahamas is back on the calendar. Five boats took the start ahead of the BVI fleet and will cross the Gulf Stream before breaking off and sailing just west of south, bound for Marsh Harbor, Abacos. to 60-foot range. of the combined Caribbean 1500 and ARC Bahamas fleets. The rally was delayed 24 of the combined Caribbean 1500 and ARC Bahamas fleets. as the fleets headed offshore, hours thanks to the season’s first real nor’easter. But respectively, the wind was bound for the British Virgin Islands and the Bahamas, steady and the seas were down. This year, unlike the recent past, offered up textbook conditions. The nor’easter that had brought gusts in excess of 50 knots quickly moved offshore and to the northeast, clearing the way for the delayed start. Rhode Island. The annual cruising rally is comprised of sailors who have completed Rhode Island. The annual cruising rally is comprised at least one bluewater passage. to press, some boats report doing a lot of motoring on the passage. to press, some boats report doing a lot of motoring on Hampton, Virginia on November 2nd and 3rd, at the skipper’s discretion, following Hampton, Virginia on November 2nd and 3rd, at the behind them, the fleet set the passage of a strong cold front. With clearing weather As this issue of out for the Bitter End Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda, BVI. Classique 3,000-mile race for classic yachts will finish at Fort-de-France, Martinique. Classique 3,000-mile race for classic yachts will finish include the lovingly restored The 14 elegant entries listed as this issue goes to press 1927-vintage, 163-foot (49.9-metre) three-masted schooner Caribbean Rally, bound for Nelson’s Dockyard in Antigua, a course of approximately Caribbean Rally, bound for Nelson’s Dockyard in Antigua, the islands just in time for the 2,850 nautical miles, intended to place participants in holidays after a tradewind crossing. set off for Grenada on November 29th from Lanzarote, Canary Islands, in the Royalset off for Grenada on November Maxi Association has joinedOcean Racing Club’s new offshore race. The International RORC Transatlantic Race andforces with the RORC in the organization of the inaugural Honours winner. As this issuewill be awarding a vintage sterling silver trophy to the Line of Port Louis Marina will host Grenada Tourism Authority with Camper and Nicholsons’ this first edition of the race. the Blue Planet Odyssey fleet as it continues on its route around the world. The as it continues on its route around the world. the Blue Planet Odyssey fleet each year, independently of the Blue Planet Odyssey. Pacific Odyssey will take place from Martinique on January 17th, 2016. The second edition will start Canal transit. The Galapagos landfall will be at San Cristobal, where the fleet will stay landfall will be at San Cristobal, where the fleet will Canal transit. The Galapagos Day to Puerto Ayora, the archipelago’s main settlement. a few days before sailing of nature reserve will be organized from one excursions within this world-renowned with passage will then take the boats to the Marquesas, those two ports. A 3,000-mile a final landfall on Hiva Oa. launched this new event for cruising sailors is to ease their passage through Panama is to ease their passage new event for cruising sailors launched this as in both these places are among the most difficult, and the Galapagos. Formalities part As participants in the Pacific Odyssey will sail as well as expensive, in the world. a round the world rally sponsored by UNESCO, our yachts of the Blue Planet Odyssey, by the authorities all along the route, and these benefits are given a special treatment sailing in the Pacific Odyssey.” will be enjoyed also by those January 18th, 2015, as well as from Key West, Florida on January 10th, the boats willWest, Florida on January 10th, 2015, as well as from Key January 18th, spent among the Islands. Ten days will be Sea to the San Blas cross the Caribbean Canal and the for the transit of the Panama archipelago. Preparations islands of this Bay Marina. will be completed at Shelter to the Galapagos Islands onward passage South Pacific organized by ARC founder, three times circumnavigator, and author of three times circumnavigator, organized by ARC founder, South Pacific Routes, World Cruising — DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 porating localculture,communityandenvironment —havethehighestvalue.” marina. “Wearesellinganexperience,”he said,“andauthenticexperiences—incor- waterflow tothemangrovesandproviding aspectacularnaturalbackdroptothe docks werepositionedjustoutsideexisting mangroveareas,allowingunimpeded instinct wastoremovemangroves,Esteban showedbeautifulexamplesofwhere achievable andpractical.Forexample, while inthepast,marinadevelopers’first nomically viable—andthatwithproper researchandplanning,thesegoalsare marinas needtobemadeenvironmentally andsociallybeneficialaswelleco- Manager atATMMarinas,EstebanBiondi, offeredaconvincingcasethatmodern San Andrés,aswellanewyachtmarinainthehistoriccoastalcityofCartagena. sector isprojected,includingsmallmarinasontheoffshoreislandsofProvidencia and including marinas,watersportsfacilitiesanddocks.Muchmoredevelopmentin this more than21developedprojectswithaninvestmentamountingtoUS$13,200million, of theislandsSanAndrés,ProvidenciaandSantaCatalina. Andrés, wasopenedwithawelcomebyAurySocorroGuerreroBowie,theGovernor in ordertolearnaboutdevelopmentsandprojectionsboatingtourism. communities, CustomsandImmigrationofficials,privatesectorrepresentatives, Vice-Ministry ofTourism,themayorsanumberColombia’sCaribbeancoastal Nautical TourismForum,bringingtogetherthenationalGovernmentthroughits Readers’ Surveysovertheyears included inputregardingwhatcruiserswant,thankstoparticipantsin Below: ApresentationonColombia’spotentialasanewyachtingdestination Tracey Hart,SallyErdle,AntonellaFarahandRodrigoLopez Andrés AvellaandEstebanBiondi.Frontrow:Vice-MinisterSandraHowardTaylor, & SantaCatalina,NataliaBayona,ManuelJulianDávila,JavierJulvez,Capt. Above, backrow,lefttoright:MayorArturoArnulfoRobinsonDawkinsofProvidencia Colombia SetsCourse In theForum’sfirstpresentation,US-based,Argentina-bornSeniorProject The full-dayForum,heldatElIsleñoConferenceCenterontheislandofSan On October24th,theColombiangovernmenthostedthatcountry’sFourth Tourism Growth for Yacht

by SallyErdle islands. There are currently islands. Therearecurrently and Pacificcoastsoffshore on thecountry’sCaribbean 3,882 kilometresofshoreline Nautical Tourismcovering advanced aNationalPlanof Fund forTourismhave Tourism andtheNational nautical tourism. lead inthedevelopmentof country hasthepotentialto tions enjoyedbyColombia,the resources andfavorablecondi- taking advantageofthenatural Howard Taylorexplainedthat, Minister ofTourismSandra cal destination. motion ofColombiaasanauti- and ontheinternationalpro- à-vis themaritimeauthorities, tions onnauticaltourismvis- in thecountry,andpresenta- on thedevelopmentofmarinas included apaneldiscussion ational boating.Theafternoon methods ofexpandingrecre- cruising destination,andon considering Colombiaasa is wantedbyyachtingvisitors ity oftoday’smarinas,onwhat mental andsocialsustainabil- foreign guests:ontheenviron- tured threepresentationsby The Colombian Ministry of The ColombianMinistryof In heropeningremarks,Vice- The morning’sagendafea- —Continued onnextpage Compass

DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 shing and more and shing PLAYGROUND www.redfrogbeachmarina.com BOCAS PANAMA DEL TORO, ng, zipline, fi zipline, ng, cial port - hassle cial entry free of Panama to VHF Channel 68 68 VHF Channel | [email protected] U.S. (954) 892 5211 4500 5211 | 892 (954) 6726 U.S. (507) Panama THE ULTIMATE CRUISERS’ CRUISERS’ THE ULTIMATE RED BEACH FROG ISLAND RESORT AND MARINA REDFROG BEACH MARINA Nestled in the Caribbean hurricane-free islands of Bocas of islands Nestled hurricane-free the Caribbean in the nat- in Beach lies at Red The Marina Frog Del Toro, protected side on the southern waters leeward urally boat ride a 10-minute Panama, in Isla Bastimentos of and captains for ideal is The marina the airport. from 300 to up yachts ft large of ftcrews a 25 and draft, who may live-aboard. vessels as smaller as well • Offi • laundry and facilities shower Private • NEW fuel dock • Surfi • for rent Luxury villas • Canal the Panama to miles 135 Only • water spring Natural • WiFi • Electric, 30/50/100/200 110/220/480v, amp beaches • Stunning • guests marina to Resort available amenities 2014 issue of

tion for friendliness tion for friendliness and a diverse mix of cultures; an effective hold on crime against yachting visitors and other tourists; and some up-to-date mari- nas and a skilled labor force. Currently lack- ing are simple and inexpensive clearance procedures; the Temporary Import Permit required after just a few days is a real impediment. However, the intense focus that the govern- ment has now placed on the yachting sector is sure to help cut some of the existing red tape. August

Tracey Hart of the NMMA’s Discover Boating pro-

on sailing to Isla Providencia Continued from previous page Continued from See Colombia’s Nautical Tourism Plan at www.observatorioirsb.org/cmsAdmin/ “We are already on the radar of this tourism sector,” the Vice Minister concluded, The Vice Minister stated that a yachting tourist spends, on average, US$35 The Vice Minister stated that a yachting tourist spends, on average, US$35 Vice Minister Sandra Howard Taylor announced during the forum that in January Rounding out the Forum was Natalia Bayona of Proexport, the Colombian agency This was followed by an outline by Captain Andrés Avella of nautical tourism as A lively panel discussion with marina principals Manuel Julian Dávila of Marina A lively panel discussion with marina principals Manuel In my presentation I highlighted the cruising yacht sector in the Caribbean, outlin- yacht sector in the Caribbean, I highlighted the cruising In my presentation As the saying goes, The following two presentations focused on two types of users of marinas and other on two types of users of marinas two presentations focused The following Regarding positive social impacts, for example providing local job training and providing local job social impacts, for example Regarding positive gram showed how promotional campaigns can encourage people to take up the lifestyle gram showed how promotional campaigns can encourage uploads/plan-nacional-de-turismo-nautico-de-colombia.pdf. “Now our task is to continue adapting the infrastructure and continue the marketing of Colombia as a nautical country.” dollars a day just within a marina, while in the surrounding area — for example dollars a day just within a marina, while in the surrounding area — for example for accommodation, food and entertainment — this amount may increase to US$100. Accordingly, the Ministry has set a goal for 2030 to consolidate the country as a nautical destination in the Caribbean region, planning marinas with capacity for more than 11,000 vessels and a range of more than 150 complementary companies. Above: Illustrating a point about yachting arrivals, Vice-Minister Howard read an Above: Illustrating a point about yachting arrivals, Vice-Minister excerpt from an article by JoAnne and Bill Harris in the 2015 the World ARC rally will visit Colombia for the first time, stopping at Marina Santa Marta en route from St. Lucia to the . She explained that the arrival of World ARC was initiated by Marina Santa Marta, which contacted the Ministry of Trade and Proexport to help “realize this opportunity of promotion and income generation for Colombia. Although the rally visits only Santa Marta, this will be an ideal opportunity to position Colombia as a yachting destination,” the Vice Minister added. “We’ll be able to showcase the offer that Colombia has for this seg- ment of the market.” Compass Below: Getting everyone on board, tasked with the promotion of non-traditional exports in markets with potential, the attraction of foreign direct investment into Colombia, and the positioning of the country as an international tourist destination. Proexport has been instrumental in showcasing Colombia at the Miami International Boat Show and in developing the rapidly growing Cartagena International Boat Show. regulated by the Colombian Maritime Authority. Santa Marta and Javier Julvez of Marina Puerto Velero, Antonella Farah of the Regional Competitiveness Commission, and longtime Colombian liveaboard, marine biologist and boatbuilder Rodrigo Lopez, discussed the current Colombian marina scene and its potential. ing what cruisers want in a destination and how Colombia measures up. According to how Colombia measures want in a destination and ing what cruisers and my own as well as letters, articles Surveys taken since 1997, Compass Readers’ naturalkey “must haves”: a clean, unspoiled cruisers are looking for five observations, and with an interesting culture; a low crime rate; simple environment; friendly people and quality yachting facilities (including anchor- inexpensive clearance procedures; currently offers four out of five of these criteria, havingages) and services. Colombia it in coastal environments and offshore islands, much of a unique range of Caribbean below the hurricane belt; a well-deserved reputa- protected reserves and all generally “a rising tide floats all boats”, and Tracey Hart of the North American National Marine Manufacturers’ Association’s (NMMA) Discover Boating pro- gram spoke about how a national boating campaign that encour- ages recreational boat- ing as a lifestyle ben- efits not only the grow- ing communities of local boaters them- selves but also the related retailers and manufacturers. The videos she showed, which in the US and as a fun family activity, Canada have been extremely successful in expanding boating resonated with the audi- and therefore stimulating related sales and manufacturing, and what is now the third- ence. Colombia, with a population of 49 million people has a pent-up in-country largest economy in Latin America (after Brazil and Mexico), demand for more recreational boats and boating facilities. recreational marine facilities: visiting cruisers and local boaters. facilities: visiting cruisers recreational marine business opportunities in and around marinas, he added, “Local community mem- he added, “Local community in and around marinas, business opportunities an authentic experience.” highest potential to offer visitors bers have the — DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 close reach as we motor-sailed to our next stop at Isla Escudo de Veraguas. close reachaswemotor-sailedtoournextstopatIslaEscudodeVeraguas. wind waslessthantenknots,butitenoughtokeepthemainandjibfullata decent saileastfromtheZapatillasCays,twoidyllicsandislandsnearBocasTown.The Blas Islands.DespitethenotoriouslyweakwindsinBocasdelToroarea,wehada ing forout-of-the-wayanchoragestobreakupourtripfromBocasdelTorotheSan sparsely inhabitedPanamaniancoastaboardour36-footCascadesloop, byAttilaBerry Panama’s Escudo In September of 2012, Vlad and I hopped, skipped and jumped our way down the In Septemberof2012,VladandIhopped,skippedjumpedourwaydownthe [email protected] [email protected] www.igy- marinasantamarta.com/en - COLOMBIA Phone: + 57 5 4363601 72 VHF Channel 16, 34.45” 14´ Coordinates 11° de Veraguas 24 NORTH 74° 13´04.91” WEST WEST NORTH 74°13´04.91” Bettie

, search- and malls. the entire region. – Mini Mark of Marta,home Center City Santa the Historic to distance walking and beach local the to –Adjacent staff. lingual bi of High percentage dryers.–24 and /7365 washer Securi quality in -New professional showers. Cold -TeakDocks.Hotand Facility. New Marina DESTINATIONS that isendemictoVeraguas. looking formoresoda,andheofferedtotakeuslooktheelusivepygmysloth following dayMariceloJuniorstoppedbywithtwoofhissistersandanotherkid, six-pack ofPepsibuthealsolikes20-dollarbillsandisratherfondgasoline).The consequently MariceloJunior. years andofwaveactionhaveerodedthosespotsaway,leavingnotjustthe roots stretchingdowntothesea.Therockisobviouslysofterinsomeplaces,and almost likeminiaturesofitself,eachtoppedwithapouffoliageandmangrove beach onthewestandsouthsides,islandisringedwitheventinierislands, navigating theislandviadinghy. the nexttwofulldaysenjoyingperfectlyclear,blue-greenwaterandcircum- anchored in24feetofwateronthesouthwestcornerrightoffbeachandspent be small,butitpacksapunchwithmoretoexplorethanislandstwiceitssize.We mountainous mainlandcoastand50milesfromourstartinBocas.Theislandmay Maricelo Seniorcamebytocollectthedonation(wegaveabigbagofriceand You see,Veraguashasunusualgeography.Apartfromoneextendedstretchof Coming inatapetitetwoandhalfmileslong,Veraguassits12offPanama’s et on site. – Nearby modern et onsite.–Nearby of the finest bistro, cafes and nightlife in in and nightlife cafes bistro, finest the of ty and Dock Attendants. - Free Wi-fi. -Free – Attendants. Dock and ty miles long Why not—it’sonlytwoandahalf Circumnavigate theislandbydinghy? that’s howwemetMariceloSeniorand donations forturtleconservation,and government, oneofthefamiliescollected come fromthemainland.Workingfor or twoaboutahundredmorefishermen families liveonVeraguas,andeveryweek people ontheisland.SeveralIndian age, butwewerebynomeanstheonly one withamaskandpairofflippers. pristine coral,ripeforexploringany- superb. Theislandissurroundedwith with freshwater.Andthesnorkelingis dense thicketofrainforest,complete Instead, thelandscapespringsupina speckled viewofatropicalpostcard. flatten outintothetypicalpalm-tree- ful waddleupfromthesea. tracks inthesand,evidenceofthatfate- that seaturtlesnestin.Wesawturtle and cranniesarelittlesnippetsofbeach natural bridge.Andinbetweenthecliffs tiny islandsbutalsocavesandevena Ours wastheonlyboatinanchor- From thebeach,islanddoesn’tjust grocery, depar grocery, —Continued onnextpage tment stores tment stores DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 and headed east for an overnight passage that PM See more of Attila’s adventures at http://bettiedelmar.blogspot.com. On our third day at the island, we had to move on to Portobelo. We raised On our third day at the island, we had to move on to Portobelo. included crossing the entrance to the Panama Canal. As we pulled out the included crossing the entrance to the Panama Canal. a tiny jewel jib on a nice port tack, we said goodbye to Escudo de Veraguas, in the Panamanian Caribbean. Uncertainty Principle — that just by observing the pygmy sloth we pygmy sloth we Uncertainty Principle — that just by observing the change its behavior. the anchor at 1:00 Above: Sailing Panama’s north coast from west to east, first you come to the Above: Sailing Panama’s north coast from west to east, passing the Peninsula islands of Bocas del Toro in Bahia del Almirante. After you come to Valiente, which forms the east side of Laguna de Chiriqui, a tiny dot: Escudo de Veraguas Left: Erosion has created an intriguing shoreline with cliffs, caves and ‘snippets of beach’ ance, quietly stalking through the jungle peering up into the trees. He said that He said that peering up into the trees. stalking through the jungle ance, quietly for them, which then gringos came looking sloths all the time, but they used to see at the sloths figure out how looking somehow. We really couldn’t disturbed them the Heisenberg that it must be like to that extent, so I decided bothered them Continued from previous page Continued from Unfortunately, we didn’t see a pygmy sloth a pygmy sloth Unfortunately, we didn’t see We pulled onto short, sandy beaches and and short, sandy beaches We pulled onto The next morning we picked Maricelo up at his home, which consisted of five or at his home, which consisted we picked Maricelo up The next morning that day, despite Maricelo’s dogged persever- that day, despite Maricelo’s walked along the mangroves looking for the looking for the walked along the mangroves took us back sloths, and occasionally Maricelo paths and across into the jungle along muddy logs, always so creeks on bridges made from tell where he quietly we sometimes couldn’t everything. Every had gone. And Maricelo saw tiny animal that we iguana, every conch, every pointed at them. couldn’t spot even when he always leave foot- Impossibly, he didn’t even mud as though he prints in the thick, dark were some type of jungle ninja. six huts built out of scrap wood and palm fronds, and proceeded clockwise around fronds, and proceeded clockwise out of scrap wood and palm six huts built coral head and single shallow spot, each our dinghy. He knew every the island in and as we dipped in between every reef pass into islands and slinked back around tiny with channels. He directed us mangrove-lined his hand in a particular direction, just a flick of not a word needed. — DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 —Continued on next page for ships to access the island. Where would the ships drop anchor for people to live here. Only ships bring people and supplies. We have gained enough height the previous day tacking north, so now sailing south- We have gained enough height the previous day tacking sticking out of the sea, The morning reveals the lonely shadow of a small mountain Saba, the Impossible miles in territory, rising You must imagine a sleeping volcano, about five square It’s impossible It’s impossible the currents are messing with us. We get pushed south and by midnight another the currents are messing with us. We get pushed south for Saba, a small island island looks closer to us on the charts. We change course 25 nautical miles south of St. Maarten. island we know nothing about.east on a starboard tack takes us quickly to Saba, an on the east and southOn the charts it looks round, with no bays and no anchorages about approaching the island,lee sides. We read what the cruising guide has to say us for what to expect. But thereanchoring, and any other information that will prepare to see and experience.is nothing that can prepare you for Saba. Saba you have like an epiphany. perilous cliffs like the vertically from the sea, reaching 3,000 feet, its inaccessible goats roam, always wearing a dark back of a sea monster, its green peak where wild fashionable white cloud. if there isn’t a single bay, a single anchorage, a single beach? Even Columbus, who sighted the island in 1493, didn’t attempt to stop.

DESTINATIONS MARINE ENGINEERING PARTS AND LUBRICANTS MARINE ENGINEERING PARTS barely does four Fata Morgana THE is slow. In the afternoon we can still see the round belly of Virgin is slow. In the afternoon we can still see the round belly

SAINT MARTIN - SINT MAARTEN SAINT MARTIN Chantier Naval Géminga - Marigot 97150 Saint Martin FWI Phone : (+590) 590 870 373 Email : [email protected] Fata Morgana, www.caraibesdiesel.com

SABA IMPOSSIBLE The sunset is spectacular that day. The sky and sea look smeared with blood, our In the evening small storm cells start floating our direction: a string of dark clouds In the evening small storm cells start floating our direction: First we head northeast. Then tack southeast. Our progress aboard our 38-foot First we head northeast. Then tack southeast. Our The Anegada Passage anchorage at Saba Rock Early in the morning we set sail from Virgin Gorda’s east son Viktor says ominously. And then the night, thick disorienting blackness, takes over. Ever since that storm in the Yucatán Channel, we dread the night. We take turns on the helm, short naps in the cockpit. The wind is steady from the east, but that come with sudden puffs and rain we’d rather avoid. We watch them closely on that come with sudden puffs and rain we’d rather avoid. back southeast when the the radar and tack north to run away from one, tacking danger has passed. We manage to cross the string of squalls without hitting any. knots. And there are some weird currents, as if always against us. knots. And there are some weird currents, as if always Gorda (the Fat Virgin) floating on the horizon behind us. We estimate it will take us Gorda (the Fat Virgin) floating on the horizon behind miles from point A to point about two days and nights of tacking. Eighty-five nautical zigzagging. With 20-knot B can easily become 150 nautical miles, even more, when tradewinds and four- to six-foot waves stopping us, cat, and Atlantic swells. to St. Maarten, an 85-nautical-mile passage against tradewinds the Anegada Passage to get it Most cruisers motor or motor-sail heading east across Maya, and I are strictly over with as soon as possible. Not us. Ivo, our daughter, sailing, no engines for us. was an unexpected stop — and a delightful one Sweet, neat and petite, Saba by Mira Nencheva DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 — They came,measuredandcalculated,thentheydeclared,“It’simpossibleto based onhardworkandmutualhelp.Buttheyhadnoroadlinkingtheirtwovillages. and fishermen,cobblersboatbuilders,creatingauniquestrong-willedcommunity dently didnothavemuchimaginationfornamingplaces,thesettlersbecamefarmers of cliffsandatophillsupdowntheslopesisland.Eventhoughtheyevi- another onthewindwardsidecalled“Windwardside”withhousesperchededge slaves, builttwovillages:oneonthebottomofsouthside,called“TheBottom”and of bouldersletloosewhentheattackerswereclimbinghills. hauled upTheLadder.Duringinvasionsitwaseasytoprotecttheislandwithpiles and abishop,wasunloadedbymenstandinginthewaterwaistdeepthen vertical itlookssurrealwhenseenfromthesea.Allcargo,includingapianoonce, Sabans cutsteepstepsintherocktobeableclimbonland,astoneladderso some shelterfromoceanswells,butboatscouldonlylandincalmseas.Therethe People andgoodsarrivedontheislandvialeeward(west)shore,whichoffered

There aresomanythingsdeemed Most ofall, It’s impossible It’s impossible In the1940sDutchengineersarrivedonSabatolookinto“theroadproblem”. Little bylittleDutch,Scottish,andEnglishsettlers,alongwithAfricansbroughtinas Once uninhabited,theislandbecameaterritoryofTheNetherlandsin1816. Continued frompreviouspage the housebehind catching systemon Note therainwater A goatgreetsus. FLOAT-ON FLOAT-OFF FLOAT-ON it’s impossible tobuildaroadconnectingthetowns.Theterrainisreallytoosteep. tobuildtowns.Theterrainistoosteep. to make your yacht-shipping experience as smooth and simple as possible, while offering you the unbeatable service you deserve. you service unbeatable the you offering while possible, as simple and smooth as experien of experience years 25 over with yacht-shipping each your make to transport, yacht worldwide in partners dedicated and th pioneers to As tailored community. solutions yachting the of transport yacht of providers premier world’s the are Transport Yacht DYT and Transport Yacht Sevenstar YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM tobuildanairport.Aplanecannotlandonamountain. “impossible” Leaders in Worldwide Why not choose the most trusted names in yacht transport for your next passage? next your for transport yacht in names trusted most the choose not Why that actuallyhappenedonSaba. Yacht Transport Yacht DYT andSevenstar Yacht Transport [email protected] Contact: NadineMassaly Phone +596596741507 Le Marin,Martinique to landanaircraftonthedirtstripatFlatPoint,provingit’spossible. pilot RemideHaenenfromtheneighboringislandofSt.Barth’sbecamefirstman flattest spotontheisland,called“FlatPoint”andcleareditbyhand.In1959French Sabans, onceagain,didn’tbelievethemandprovedwrong.Theyfoundthe impossible tobuildanairportrunwayonamountain;thereisnospace.”Andtheyleft. and withdrasticcurves,wasfinishedin1958. completion oftheproject.TheRoad,Lambee’sroad,inconceivablysteepatplaces successful, yetthefirstcararrivedonislandin1947,tenyearsbefore paid forthecement.Noonecouldguaranteethatbuildingofroadwouldbe government fundingwasrefused,alocalmerchanteagertoseetheroadfinished stones, andfortheroaditselftheyusedcementimportedfromPuertoRico.And,as wheelbarrows, tofinishTheRoad.Forthesupportwallstheyhadplentyofvolcanic “The Road”. vised theimpossiblebuildingof“impossible”nine-mileroadwhichtheynamed of CorrespondenceintheUSandwithnoformaltraininghedesignedsuper- 1906, tookacorrespondencecourseinroadbuildingfromtheInternationalSchool build aroadhere;theterrainistoosteep.”Andtheyleft. You mighthaveguessed(andasI’mwritingthisItearsinmyeyes),butthe The DutchengineersreturnedtoSaba.Andonceagaintheexpertsdeclared,“It’s “Now, howaboutanairport?”theSabansasked. It tookacrewoflocalfarmersandfishermen20years,usingnomachinery,only But oneSabandidn’tbelievethem.JosephLambertHassel,“Lambee”,bornin thoroughfare once theisland’smain stone stairway,was The Ladder,asteep Representative SEVENSTAR-YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM e needs mobility ce, our goal is is goal our ce,

—Continued onnextpage LIFT-ON LIFT-OFF LIFT-ON DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 , with her Fata Morgana As we are sitting on the terrace of a restaurant with the most spectacular view, As we are sitting on the terrace of a restaurant with pale shadows of islands in And beyond: the sea. Blue water in all directions, around the world and hasMira Nencheva, writer, photographer, wanderer, is sailing The Windwardside, much like The Bottom, is another fairytale place with white is another fairytale place much like The Bottom, The Windwardside, sites with one of the world’s best diving unforgettable days in Saba, We spend a few drinking cold beer in the company of tiny white red-roofed houses neatly huddled in drinking cold beer in the company of tiny white red-roofed among the green hills of a a small valley surrounded by banana and papaya trees, am thinking, “How lucky that sleeping volcano populated by free-roaming goats, I the wind has brought us to Saba”. the distance. been living full-time aboard her 38-foot Leopard catamaran, lent hospital on Saba providing residents with medical care. Most Sabans are in fact with medical care. Most Sabans Saba providing residents lent hospital on ever left the tiny island. and some have never born in this hospital Santa Claus’ of hills overlooking the sea. perched on the slopes red-roofed houses and crafts, local artists’ paintings There is an art gallery displaying Summer Retreat. long, steep but From here begins the a few restaurants and shops. a hotel, and among pristine a 90-minute hike up to the top of Mount Scenery, pleasant trail on the island Forest”, one of many trails referred to as “The Elfin tropical rainforest, by the park service. all maintained We coral fields, and over 150 thousand species of fish. underwater magma towers, try shores, hike up Mount Scenery and The Ladder, we snorkel near the volcanic and seen before, hitchhike between the two villages, tropical fruits we had never meet friendly people. husband, Ivo, and 11-year-old daughter, Maya, since July 2013. Their journey is docu- husband, Ivo, and 11-year-old daughter, Maya, since July and in their Facebook pagemented in a travel-adventure blog www.thelifenomadik.com pictures, and videos.Facebook/TheLifeNomadik where Mira is publishing stories, the trail to the top of the aptly named Mount Scenery Continued from previous page Continued from We pass by the Saba University School of Medicine, established by American expa- We pass by the Saba University School of Medicine, established We decide to visit the village on the other side, Windwardside. We start walking We decide to visit the village on the other side, Windwardside. The Bottom, even though on top of a hill, is still in the foot of a volcano, Mount The Bottom, even though on top of a hill, is still in the We kayak to shore on the west side and begin the steepest cement road west side and begin climbing the steepest cement road We kayak to shore on the From where we are we see only one house up on the green hill and the beginning only one house up on the green hill and the beginning From where we are we see There isn’t an anchorage; there isn’t a beach. All we see are rocks, rugged black there isn’t a beach. All we see are rocks, rugged black There isn’t an anchorage; Our Saba on the second day of our passage, sooner than we We approach Saba at noon It must be quite an experience arriving on Saba by plane. We watched one landing, Saba by plane. We watched an experience arriving on It must be quite In 1963 the airport was a fact with a 1,300-foot landing strip, the shortest com- landing strip, the was a fact with a 1,300-foot In 1963 the airport triates, whose international students make up a fifth of the entire population on the triates, whose international students make up a fifth university, there is an excel- island, which is about 2,000 residents. Thanks to the again. Every car passing us on the road stops and people offer us a ride, and we have again. Every car passing us on the road stops and people we would rather walk the to explain that, in order to see and experience the place, nine-mile road, The Road. Scenery, about 3,000 feet high. It is a fairytale village; hard to believe real people live Scenery, about 3,000 feet high. It is a fairytale village; mountain are painted white here and not elves. All houses etched against the dark red tin roofs, with low stone with green rims around the windows and doors, and has its own rainwater collec- fences, tropical flowers and mango trees. Each house as there is no fresh water on tion system, some almost 200 years old made of stone, freshwater consumption. the island and the inhabitants are very conscious of their in the world, surrounded by thick tropical vegetation, huge elephant ears and ferns, in the world, surrounded by thick tropical vegetation, no people, only shy goats fragrant flowers and tamarind trees. There are no cars, It takes us an hour to reach grazing on the steep hillside. The place looks deserted. We have climbed up to the top of the hill, all sweaty, legs hurting, hearts exploding. The Bottom. of a road at the foot of the island. We also see The Ladder, which no one uses any- of a road at the foot of the not even a dinghy dock, and the shore is rocky. The only more. There isn’t a marina, land from this side is by kayak; a dinghy won’t do. From way to access this forbidden dinghies all the way to the south side of Saba where here, most cruisers take their they can access land from there. But it’s a long ride. the commercial port is, and magma towers, sharp and broken, and the red vertical cliffs of the island. There is a broken, and the red vertical cliffs of the island. There magma towers, sharp and all vacant and not at all close to the island. We grab one. row of nine mooring balls, the is dark blue. It feels as if we are stopped out in The depth is 60 feet; the water the small mooring ball. Accelerated puffs turn around open sea, holding on to a to boat violently pulls on its mooring ball. Really hard island all the time and the Saba’s shores and waters are so harsh and unforgiv- sleep peacefully here at night. venture this way. The island is also off-limits for most ing that not many boaters charter boats. expected, but then, we expected to get to St. Maarten, not Saba. On the west side, to get to St. Maarten, not Saba. On the west side, expected, but then, we expected should be the most weather-protected side, an anchor- which in regular tradewinds called Wells Bay, even though it isn’t exactly a bay. age is indicated on the charts and it was incredible. The plane started slowing down long before approaching the slowing down long before The plane started and it was incredible. the ground. If the immediately after hitting stopped almost airstrip and miraculously too short, they too fast and the runway is because their speed is pilot cannot stop side to try a second time. then lift off on the other touch down and mercial runway in the world, where only specially trained pilots flying small aircrafts specially trained pilots flying in the world, where only mercial runway may land. — DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Get Real: together, anddecoratedwithswirlingcutoutsthatcast tery spherespaintedinvariouscoloursthatmingle including beautifulpottery“fireballs”.Thesearepot- larger selectionofartisancraftsinhisshoponshore, coconut-shell turtlestoamusethekids.Hehasa made craftitemssuchascarvedcalabashshellsor communities throughouttheregion,andsmalllocally by him,basketsofspicessourcedfromagricultural carries aselectionofhand-printedT-shirtsdesigned days touringtheanchorageinhisfloating“shop”.He Islands, Aragornorhisassistantcanbeseenonmost find locallymadeartsandcrafts? But howdoyoutellthedifferenceandwhere Aragorn Dick-ReadoftheCaribbeanArtisanNetwork. find shopsfullofcraftsfromtheFarEast.”Sosays tity isshamedandourvisitorsdisappointedwhenthey the cultureandtraditionsofCaribbean. gifts thatputmoneyintothelocaleconomyandreflect tips andideasforfindinglocallymadesouvenirs Authentic Caribbean In Bequia,wherechildrenracetheirhomemadecoconut-huskboatsatEastertime,modelofallsortsmakefinesouvenirs. Based inTrellisBay,Tortola,theBritishVirgin “For ustheword‘local’meansCaribbean.Ouriden- Christine Goochof B [email protected] Tel: 17844584308| St. Vincent &theGrenadines of BlueLagoon inRatho Mill, Nestled inthequietwaters (Formerly SunsailMarineCenter) Blue Lagoon Hotel&Marina

Free Rum Punch for all arriving boats! lue La Arts &Crafts g oon Hotel&Marina S/Y SweetSensation VHF: 16/68 sharessome by ChristineGooch MARINA RATES: atthegovernmentregulatedprice GasolineandDieselareavailabledockside Monohull $0.77CatamaranUS$1.15 Dockage perfootday: and colourfulchairstablesonthebeach. dio, withcoolbeerskeptinahugeglass-frontedfridge out andopenedasmallbarattheentrancetohisstu- shells, andthelasttimewevisitedhehadbranched Felix works.Aswellascanvasses,hepaintscalabash paintings obscurethetopofwoodentablewhere of paintbrushes,variouspaintsandhalf-finished stack, whichyouarewelcometobrowsethrough.Ajar displayed onthewalls,withmoreleaninginanupright Portsmouth inDominica.Canvassesofallsizesare tional. WefoundFelix’sstudiorightonthebeachat tional craftsmanatworkcanbebothfunandeduca- sort ofbeenintoitallmylife,really.” ied HistoryofArtandTribalTouristArt.I’ve Caribbean craftsandtraditions,Aragornsays,“Istud- kets andtalents.Passionateaboutpreserving to connectwithotherartisansandshareideas,mar- work enablingartisansscatteredacrosstheCaribbean connection betweenafewfriendsandgrewintonet- lovely shadowswhenalitcandleisplacedinside. Also inDominicaistheCaribCulturalCentre,where Visiting astudioandwatchinganartistortradi- The CaribbeanArtisanNetworkdevelopedoutofa In virtuallyalloftheislands,craftspeoplemakeorigami-likebirds,fishandothercreaturesoutpalmfronds Black Pearl Restaurant Sail Loft/Canvas Shop Book Exchange Service Laundry Mini Mart St. Vincent &theGrenadines makes agoodpartygameorconversationpiece,but you decidetoreleasethem.“Guesswhatthisis” tight aroundtheirfingerandtheyaretrappeduntil finger andpullonthering.Thelatticeworkclosesup other. Sliptheopenendoveryourwife(orhusband’s!) a wovenringatoneendandanopenmouththe a “wifeleader”—cone-shapedlatticeworkitemwith baskets, theladiesmakeaningeniousdevicetheycall tions alive.Aswellasthedistinctivetraditionalwoven Cultural Centreisimportantinkeepingtheirtradi- places intheCaribbeanwheretheystilllive; Columbian timesandDominicaisoneofthefew ed fromSouthAmericauptheislandchaininpre- watch localladiesweavingbaskets.TheCaribsmigrat- tasting smokyfromthefireit’scookedover—and you cantastecassavabread—starchyandfilling you’re luckyenoughtobeinBequiafortheEaster from itsbranches,swinginggentlyinthebreeze.If boats withbrightyellow,blueorredcottonsailshang tree withveryunusual“flowers”.Smallcoconut-shell for business.Alittlefurtheralongthepathisanother back ofthevehiclesorcallingoutasyoupass,touting drivers loungechattingonthebenchseatsinopen taxi rankunderthebigoldalmondtreewhere to suchaluxury,walkbacktheferrydock,past a photographtoworkfrom.Ifyourbudgetdoesn’trun even makeamodelofyourownyachtifyouleavethem Elizabeth towardsthevillageofHamilton.Theywill To findthem,walkroundAdmiraltyBayfromPort at Mauvin’sorSargeantBrothers’workshopsinOcar. made bymembersoftraditionalboatbuildingfamilies nowadays youcanwatchbeautifulmodelboatsbeing crafts. Boatbuildinghasalongtraditionontheisland; place wherethereisagoodselectionoflocalartand got itstuckonmyfinger! put oursonwhileIwaswritingthisdescriptionand beware —astheygetolderbecomelessflexible;I Bequia inStVincent&theGrenadinesisanother Free Open Wifi Services Charter Bathrooms /Showers Taxi Service Beach Bar&Restaurant Provisioning Services A/C Power 110/220 24hrs security Car RentalService Fuel Dock DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 , we had some , with a madras !#/# Caliburn ) 45 4444 ***7 )  73  broderie anglais  6 )  73  What Not to Buy! The Caribbean environment is fragile. Please This is not just being conscientious, it’s being Choose crafts made from renewable resources, help protect it, and the wildlife that lives here, by not purchasing products made from turtle shell, coral, seashells, shark teeth, bird feathers or other animal products. safe: there are laws pertaining to environmental protection throughout the Caribbean. Unscrupulous vendors might tell you that “it’s allowed here” or “this is government approved”, but virtually all Caribbean nations are members of CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), which prohibits trade in products made from endangered species. In Trinidad & Tobago, for example, it is illegal to take black coral out of the country and if found by Customs, you will cer- tainly lose it and may be subject to a stiff fine. such as calabashes, palm fronds, banana leaves, seeds, wood and coconut shells, as well as cloth- ing, pottery and artwork. The environment that you are here to enjoy will thank you! It is perfectly possible to buy locally made crafts to In some popular anchorages boat boys, like mosqui- anchorages boat boys, In some popular I have a fruit basket on My husband, Kevin, and much-loved palm-frond birds that were almost confis- much-loved palm-frond birds Zealand, despite being 20 cated on arrival in New years old. Eventually the official relented and let us keep them, but only after she had put them in a plas- tic bag and sprayed them liberally with insecticide. suit all budgets throughout the Caribbean, especially if you venture away from the more obvious souvenir shops and get chatting to the locals, whether they are part of a network of artisans, local ladies selling home- grown spices, or enterprising solo men carving cala- bash shells and bamboo or weaving palm fronds. These are just some suggestions based on our own discoveries; I’m sure other yachties will have sugges- tions of their own. Sorry if I haven’t included one of your favourites — why not let others know about them and help Caribbean arts and crafts thrive? vanilla and nutmeg fill your nostrils. It’s good fun to fill your nostrils. It’s vanilla and nutmeg in Le Marin, local ladies. At the market chat with the in their tradi- of the vendors dress Martinique some (a cotton of dresses made from madras tional costume red pattern) orange, yellow and cloth with a checked white and fringed with handkerchief tied in their hair. The number of knotstied in their hair. The number handkerchief the lady supposedly indicate whether and their position still looking! — or spoken for but is married, available as a bit of a pest. But toes, can sometimes be regarded “no thank you” or “we’ve unlike mosquitoes, a polite thanks” is already bought a fruit basket/bracelet/hat, grace. But hey, boat boys usually accepted with good trying to make a living. are human, too, and are just in Marigot Bay, St. board woven from palm fronds been made they are green Lucia. (When they have just a suitcase if you’re flying and squash flat to pack in that they spring back into home soon — I’m assured also have a selection of shape when unpacked). We fish and even a grass- origami-like palm-frond birds, if you are planning to visit hopper. A word of caution the future: the authorities New Zealand or Australia in vigilant about introduc- there are understandably very so you might have ing foreign pests and diseases, from natural fibres into trouble taking products woven the country. On our old boat, 8-&(70 Q&0 '77&:( Q<  4 Q=' 8-&(70 Q&0 '77&:( Q< and Wilma Stowe on the Mr Quality Local markets are a good place to buy spices and local Think natural. The hand-painted calabash (locally called a boley) on the left, and the palm-frond fruit basket above and bird figure below are all made from readily renewable, locally grown resources — and don’t add weight to your boat or your suitcase shops in Port Louis Marina in Grenada and at Paradise shops in Port Louis Marina in Grenada and at Paradise Beach on Carriacou. The T-shirts are also available in the Tobago Cays, but Sandra from Fidel Productions advises you to beware of imitations; the only autho- rized sellers for Fidel in the Tobago Cays are boat boy Rondel Weekes on island of Petit Bateau. jams, chutney and sauces, especially on “The Spice Isle” of Grenada. As you wander through the array of stalls piled high with fruit and vegetables, the pungent scents of cinnamon, coriander, mace, curry powder, on lines between the palm trees. While it’s good that the palm trees. While on lines between to the stall- these items goes directly the money for T-shirts and of them are made locally. holder, not all are available and made in Grenada jewellery designed Felix based in Carriacou. from Fidel productions, drew a pic- seven years old when he Preisig was only logo. lizard that became the company ture of Fidel, the includ- has designed many T-shirts, Since then Felix brother Lucas turtle. His younger ing the best-selling have the company. Fidel Productions also designs for                          #$%&'   !" () * &+ & &, &-    '[ /0  1 2& ,&+  # 31  Continued from previous page Continued from T-shirts are a popular and practical souvenir. In Another option if you like the work of an artist but Normally I would suggest buying direct from crafts- If you continue walking along Front Street you will If you continue walking along almost all of the islands you will find locals selling T-shirts and sarongs from beach-front stalls or strung don’t want to buy a painting is to look for something don’t want to buy a painting is to look for something smaller and less expensive. It’s sometimes possible to find reproductions in the form of prints, greeting cards or even fridge magnets, which is what we bought from a lady painting small watercolours on the waterfront in Les Saintes, Guadeloupe. men or local stallholders rather than shops to ensure men or local stallholders rather than shops to ensure you are “buying local”, but Bequia is one place where you can find locally made items in the shops. For example, there are calabash shells beautifully painted by one of several local artists, as well as painted “shack-shacks”. A shack-shack is a percussion instru- ment made from the large, curved seedpod of the Poinciana or Flamboyant tree. After the pod is dried, the sound it makes when shaken gives it its name. There are also shops selling paintings by local artists, batik clothing, hand-painted silk scarves, pareos and cushion covers. If you can’t afford an original painting, the Oasis Gallery sells prints, and the Bequia Bookstore sells books featuring the work of local artists plus a selection of titles by Caribbean authors. pass many stalls selling crafts such as woodcarvings, pass many stalls selling crafts and jewellery. There is one coconut shell bird feeders long as I can remember, lady who has been there as least one of her small chil- usually accompanied by at jewellery and crocheted dren. She sells hand-made often be seen working on Rasta hats, which she can while sitting by her stall. — up to will see a crowd of local children, …Regatta you racing from a water, setting these boats their knees in surprisingly Hamilton. The boats sail tiny beach at sink almost they would capsize or well; we predicted case, some this proved not to be the immediately but before being as far as the moored yachts making it out inflatable din- the race officials in their scooped up by waded further enthusiasm as they ghy. The children’s to their boat shouting encouragement into the water the faces of the race win- and the beaming smiles on ners were a delight to see. DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 dark nightexceptonaradarscreen and bylookingfortheirrunninglights. monitored. Therearesmallboatsthatdo nothaveAIS,whichyouwillseeona allow youtoplaneffectivelyavoidcontact. approach) aswellTCPA(timetoclosest pointofapproach).Thisinformationwill commercial shipsheadingyourway and giveyoutheirCPA(closestpointof can besetonsixor12milestospotanything closetoyou,andtheAISwillpickup sively. WithAISandoneradar,youwill beableto“see”reasonablywell.Theradar the watchtoswitchbackandforthbetweenrangeseverytenminutes. that Ilikeistousetworadarssimultaneouslyor,ifnotpossible,instruct then seeingsomethingclosetoyoubecomesdifficult,ifnotimpossible.Onesolution ten minutesandontopofyouin20.Ifsetyourradartoofarout,24or48miles, at 22knots20milesawaywillnotbeseenandhisspeedclosetoyou in and youwillbeabletoseeclearlywhatiscloseyou.However,alargeshipmoving always beenadiscussionofthebestwaytosetradarrangeatnight.Belowtenmiles target onthescreen;ifithastoomuchgain,youwillnotseeanything.There has learn howtotuneitproperly.Iftheradarhastoolittlegainset,youwillnotsee the the night”. time sailingwiththefullmoon.Amoonisamagicalthingandreally“lights up asleep, whileothersaresoanxiousthattheycannotsleepatall,leadingtofatigue. at nightisnotusuallyconducivetoagoodnight’ssleep.Manyonwatchsimply fall in daylight. reef isanotherconcernthatcausesworrygreaterthanasimilarsituationoccurring cern. Therearealsocasesofcollisionwithotherboats. led intothecockpit,reducingsailtakesmoreworkandplanningtoexecute. nified. Heavywindrequiresadditionalsailhandling.Evenwithrollerfurlingandsheets The fearofgoingoverboardandnotbeingfoundisoftenaworry. is humannature’sfearofthedark. ever hasbeen. AIS (AutomatedIdentificationSystem),nighttimesailingissimplerandsaferthanit the moreyoudoit,betterbecomeatit.WithadventofGPSanduse part ofthecruiser’sinventory.Sailingatnightislikeanyotheraspectcruising; and createanoffshorebreeze. mountain sidebecauseitisheavier).Oftenthekatabaticwindwillstalltradewind High mountainrangesresultinkatabaticwindaftersunset(coldairslidingdownthe ally beadvantageouswouldwhensailingeastwardalongtheGreaterAntilles. may actuallybeadvantageous.Agoodexampleofwhensailingatnightactu- nighttime sailinginevitableattimes,andtherearealsotimeswhennight passages duringtheday—GrenadatoTrinidadisjustoneexamplewhichmakes task thatmustbeundertaken.ButitisnotalwayspossibletomakeallCaribbean SMOOTH SAILING Keep inmindthatAISisnotasubstitute forgoodradarthatiswelltunedand AIS (AutomaticIdentificationSystem,receiver version)canbeinstalledinexpen- If thisisnotpossiblethenyouhavetoprepareyour“eyes”see.radar, For thosewhoareconcernedthattheycannotseeatnight,trytotimeyournight- Night SailingToolsandTips Lastly, formanyandperhapsmost,weliketosleepatnightbeingunderway Fear ofanavigationerrorthatcanresultingroundingorimpactwithrocksand Fear ofhittingasubmergedobjectoranotherboatisalsolistedbymanyascon- Heavy seaconditionsarealwaysamajorconcern,butatnighteverythingseemsmag- Inability toseeisamajorissue,whichwhysomanyarehappyfullmoon. There aremanyreasonsthatsailingatnightcancauseanxiety,foremostofwhich What AreYouAfraidOf? While youmaynotactivelychoosetosailatnight,nighttimesailingisavaluable For many,sailingatnightiseithersomethingtobeavoidedoranuncomfortable AT NIGHT by FrankVirgintino —Continued onnextpage DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W Dominican Republic • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo & 7 miles East of International Airport THE FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMENTT iiiii Z

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aaaaa MMMM Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Zar-Par Marina • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • 70 Ton Travelift (30' beam) • ABYC certified machanics • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers , Free Cruising Guides Continued from previous page Continued from Frank Virgintino is the author of One of the big bonuses of sailing at night is the amazing sunsets and splendid Learn to Love Night Sailing All of the above methods and strategies can be categorized as good seamanship. When Light is Right The Caribbean Sea may be one sea but it is clearly not one place. Sailing east along Night sailing is best done in open sea unobstructed by anything other than other Night sailing is best done in open sea unobstructed by Lastly, there is the fear of navigation error that can result in going aground or hit- Lastly, there is the fear of navigation error that can result There are some hazards that cannot be seen. Flotsam and jetsam are always of cannot be seen. Flotsam and jetsam are always There are some hazards that I have always instructed crew (and guests) never to leave the safety of the cockpit. (and guests) never to leave the safety of the cockpit. I have always instructed crew The protocol for the watch should be to monitor the radar screen carefully and to monitor the radar screen carefully the watch should be to The protocol for However, not all boats have running lights and sometimes the only way to see them and sometimes the only way all boats have running lights However, not http://freecruisinguides.com. sunrises seen. I remember a few years back, heading from Trinidad to St. Maarten. We were sailing on a starboard tack at a good pace on a beam reach powered by a very dry tradewind. On the starboard side the rising moon was so large that you could almost reach out and touch it. To the west, as the sun was setting, huge clouds of infinite variety were backlit and provided a wonderful show of slow-moving circus animals in delicate hues of pink and yellow. In all the years I have sailed, there were very few moments that could equal that one! Good seamanship is a matter of knowledge and experience but those who are uncomfortable being at sea during the night are not always open to logic. In such cases the block is emotional and all the preparation and discussion will not over- come it. The best way to deal with this problem is to sail a few hours on nights that have some moonlight and do it repeatedly until he or she comes to realize that sail- ing at night is very much like sailing any other time. Often the wind is moderate and the night cooler, which can make for really pleasant conditions. the south coast of the Greater Antilles is best done during the night, while exploring around the northeast corner of Antigua through the intricate maze of reef is best undertaken during the day. Entering an unknown harbor at night is usually a very bad idea. Many times your chart plotter will not reflect what is really so. Sailing into the main harbor at Aruba, the channel is more than 100 feet off what is shown on most chart plotters. The Gorda Sound passage just south of Necker Island is also misrepresented on many chart plotters and if you “follow the little red boat” you will end aground on the reef at on the southwest side of Necker. Closing on land at night, and in particular unfamiliar land, does not make for good seamanship. Always stand off and wait for daylight so you can add your eyes to the array of instruments you use to navigate. vessels plying the sea. Big commercial ships can be managed by your eyes and read- vessels plying the sea. Big commercial ships can be managed their speed and direction and ing of their navigation lights. You can easily compute simpler than that as you will plot to avoid them. If you have an AIS receiver it is even their CPA as well as their see them on your plotter and the machine will calculate try to reach them on chan- TCPA. Have you ever noticed that many times when you underway doing their busi- nel 16 they do not respond? Large commercial ships are boats. However, if you have ness and most do not want to chat with small pleasure uses data signals to automate DSC (Digital Selective Calling, a paging system that and know how to use it, and if the transmission and reception of calls) on your VHF hard for them to disregard a you absolutely MUST contact the ship, it will be very to make a nuisance of your- DSC call as it is logged electronically. Do your best not say anything. If you have self. Unless you have something substantial to say, don’t well, even if they do not spot broadcasting AIS, they will see you on their screen as can still easily determine how you on their radar. If you have only receiving AIS, you that do not transmit to avoid the “big boy”. The small boats that you may encounter lights if you maintain your AIS, you can spot on your radar or see their running and your course is clear, all watch carefully. Once you have taken care of business the magic in your phosphores- that is left is to count the stars in the sky and watch cent wake! ting a reef. Navigation errors are always possible and more so when an autopilot is ting a reef. Navigation errors are always possible and “dumb line cruising”. Cruising interfaced with an electronic chart plotter resulting in Cruising on a sailboat is an in such a fashion is dangerous and should be avoided. Avoid the false sense of art. One of the most important parts of that art is alertness. check your position; security that comes from being on autopilot. Consistently your position on a paper chart always know exactly where you are. Whether you plot all times. This discipline can or on a chart plotter, keep your position updated at significantly reduce the possibility of navigational error. concern with semi-submerged containers coming to mind. There really is no way to concern with semi-submerged containers coming to mind. to worst and your pumps spot such hazards, so be prepared in case worse comes should be in the cockpit and and efforts to stop a leak can’t cope. The emergency bag raft and/or dinghy should ready to take with you at a moment’s notice. The safety carry two half-filled five- be able to be launched instantly in any conditions. I always that if they are loosed, they gallon containers of water on deck as well, the idea being to St. Croix hit a submerged will float. A few years back, a cruising sailboat en route The couple on the boat were obstacle, was holed and sunk in a matter of minutes. While such an encounter is well prepared and used their dinghy to make landfall. Fortunately, it is not a fre- frightening, it is something we can effectively plan for. to handle it is to be prepared quent occurrence but should it happen the best way of what needs to be done and for it and be sure that everyone on the boat is aware who is to do it. In addition, if there is only one person on watch, being attached to a safety line one person on watch, being attached to a safety In addition, if there is only The man overboard light should be handy and it should makes good sense: clip on! head out; a dead battery makes for a good-looking piece have been tested before you of no use. I always like the night watch to have a of safety equipment that is ring their neck. The man overboard pole and life on a long lanyard tied around handy and easily released. The quicker the light goes should also be in good order, the ring, the easier it will be to spot and retrieve into the water with the overboard can small portable overboard LED lights that the watch man overboard. There are one between life and death. If there is more than attach that can mean the difference in protocol should be that if someone goes overboard, person on the watch, standing ring, pole and light, that the “man overboard” location addition to throwing the life or GPS be activated to mark the spot. All of these precau- button on the chart plotter more tense, but they should be viewed as just good tions make some people even that we think will necessarily happen. seamanship and not as something switch back and forth between ranges every ten minutes or so. Additionally, the every ten minutes or so. forth between ranges switch back and to 15 minutes. 360 degrees every ten to stand up and look around watch needs view is most is not acceptable. A clear the ports or the dodger Looking through that they have vision eyes”, which means the watch must have “night important and “red” night light- cabin is equipped with at any white light. If your not recently looked and so often the of nighttime sailing the better. I do a great amount ing, so much up of a boat or ship when the radar did not pick it watch has picked up the lights and tweaked. It is also helpful for the watch to stand until the tuning was further wards off the impulse to fall asleep. Many times look around because the practice off. night brought a light balmy wind, perfect for dozing the autopilot is on and the is on the radar screen. is on the radar — DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 grommet, downonethroughthesailslide,andbackgrommet below thesecondtackreefingeye,thenthroughsailslide,backnext slide thereshouldbeadoublegrommet.Ajacklineissecuredtothefirstgrommet destroy theshapeofsail. on thelinewillpreserveshapeofsail;otherwiseafewyearsreefing a coupleofreefpointsareneededtogatherupthebuntsail.Havingload so thattheloadisonthisline.Sincelineratherthansail,only earring byalashingline.Thisshouldbeadjusted the clewreefearringandsecuredtotack stretch line,shouldberuninapocketattachedto time sailingunderreefedmainthatawire,orlow- tension onthefootofsail. block arecorrectlyplacedsothatthereisproper It isessentialthattheclewreefingpadeyeand that thecrewknowswhenclewistwo-blocked. is minimized,andmarkingtheclewreefinglineso islands, markingthehalyardsothatre-hoisting the mainre-trimmed.Practiceinleeof thrown off,themainhoisted,lufftensionedand lifted clearofthehooks,clewreefingline eased, thehalyardslackenedsoringscanbe enough lufftensionandthemainisre-trimmed. blocked. Thenthehalyardistakenupuntilthere take upontheclewreefinglineuntilistwo- hooked underthehooksongooseneck,andthen main untiltheringsontackreefingeyecanbe centreline boomvang),easethemainsheet,drop the toppinglift(unlessboomissupportedbya the darkorinmidstofahardsquall. really familiarwiththeprocedureandcandoitin Do thisoperationfourorfivetimes,soyouare mark allthecontrollinesandshakereefout. tice. Gooutintento12knotsofwind,reefthesail, reefing, nomatterwhatsystemyouhave,isprac- mast reefing.Butthemostimportantthingabout slab, single-lineroller,LeisureFurlandin- Winds. Bereadyforthem. and, usuallythismonth,thenotoriousChristmas squalls, windaccelerationzonesbetweenislands for consistenttradewinds,buttherearealso shake thereefoutagain.TheCaribbeanisrenowned sail easily,quicklyandefficiently,howtothen Caribbean unlessyouknowhowtoreefthemain- forCaribbeanComfort Reefing theMain A jacklineshouldbeinstalledthroughtheslidesasfarupfirstreef.Ateach Sailing intheCaribbean,aboatspendssomuch When shakingthereefout,mainsheetis In slabreefing,thenormalmethodistotakeupon Standard SlabReefingMethod There arevariousmethodsofreefingamain: It isimpossibletoreallyenjoysailinginthe REPOWER FOR A RENEWED BOAT LIFE insint maarten /saint martin New 2015 us$ price list available ! ! available EASY BOATING Improve your installation and save time with our high level qualified technici qualified level high our with time save and installation your Improve USA. from imported directly drives + engines with costs and time Save Save money in a DUTY FREE island. : Martin Saint / Maarten Sint in repower to Benefit value. resale boat’s your boost you’ll least, butnot last And consumption. fuel lower to thanks impact, environmental reduce and costs cut also You’ll comfort. and safety on-board reliability, wellas as maneuvering, and performance increase will which engine, new a toinstall easier Volvo Penta’s complete repowering it kits make experience. boating overall your improve will engine new a with boat your Repowering All necessary infrastructures at lower prices (Boatyards, intl. airport, hotels, shipchandlers...) shipchandlers...) hotels, airport, intl. 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WWW.RAVENCRUISE.COM SEAWISE WITHDONSTREET modified byus,is Aboard aDashew-designedSundeer64:‘AnothersmartDashewtouch,slightly of haulingintheclewreefline.’ reaching… TheelectricLewmar48winchatthemastbasehandleshardwork the mark. his mainbyeasingthesheet,toppingboomwellupandslackinghalyardto faster method.IcallittheDashew-StreetMethod.learnedofSteveDashewreefing there willbenostrainonthebottomslidesassailisreefed. hoisted, pullthejacklinetightandsecureit.Thiswillmakereefingmucheasier,as on thesail.Repeatthisprocedureuntilbottomslideisreached.Withsail The aboveisthestandardmethodofreefingamain,butthereaneasierand The Dashew-StreetMethod ’s ans. ans. reefingsystem…Wehavereefedin35knotswhilebroad  Contact Contact us forany quote orinformations    Email :[email protected] www.caraibesdiesel.com Phone :(+590) 590 870 373 —Continued onnextpage DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 , by Well reefed down, a boisterous Well reefed down, a boisterous a inter-island passage becomes safe yet exhilarating experience The Ocean Sailing Yacht, Volumes One and Two “Forget about the ‘in’ and ‘out’ labels on the control switch; think of clockwise and “Forget about the ‘in’ and ‘out’ labels on the control switch; Practice Makes Perfect is important to go out in ten To repeat, no matter which reefing system you have, it For more information see As for in-the-mast roller reefing, I am not a fan of it. In my first experience with it, a fan of it. In my first experience roller reefing, I am not As for in-the-mast now making sails for in-the-mast reefing with vertical A number of sailmakers are counterclockwise. No matter how tight the roller is tensioned, there is always some counterclockwise. No matter how tight the roller is tensioned, it to windward, as there will sag to it. When reefing or furling the main, always roll side of the mast slot. So on be more space on the windward side than the leeward it up counterclockwise.” starboard tack roll the sail clockwise, on port tack roll of times, and mark all the to 12 knots of wind, reef and shake out the reef a number as to whether they have been halyards and reefing lines so that there is no debate then when sailing up and trimmed or slacked to the correct position. Do this, and and quickly reef the main down the Eastern Caribbean island chain you can easily passage across the before leaving the lee of an island, have a fast and comfortable lee of the next island. If you channel, and then shake out the reef as you reach the the wind in the passage is have reefed down before leaving the lee of the island and reef and pick up speed. lighter than you thought, you can easily shake out the website Donald M. Street, available at Amazon.com. Visit Don Street’s at www.street-iolaire.com. it was blowing and the electric motor was not powerful enough to roll up the sail not powerful enough to and the electric motor was it was blowing two Antigua luffing violently. Then I sailed the main until it was unless we eased but the sail had reefing. It worked well, on a boat that had in-the-mast Sailing Weeks Also, a mast good-looking, powerful sail. a hollow leach — not a no battens and so the boat’s than a standard mast, gear is much heavier containing roller-reefing required to give and additional ballast is effect will be greater heeling and pitching correctly masts are expensive. However, Internal roller furling the same stability. roller furling at the huge Perini’s that have systems do work; look engineered these in the mast. a nicely setting sail with a nicely curved leach, but how battens. The photos show the battens jam in the slot in the mast? Many skippers well will the sail roll up? Will weather with the sail binding up when trying to reef. have had problems in heavy megayacht skipper, told me of his solution: Billy Porter, a most experienced Continued from previous page Continued from As with any gear, in-the-boom reefing/furling does have its limitations. The roller As with any gear, in-the-boom reefing/furling does have To hoist sail, the line to the drum controlling the roller is thrown off, the halyard To hoist sail, the line to the drum controlling the roller Then came in-the-boom reefing/furling, with an electric or hydraulic motor wind- Then came in-the-boom reefing/furling, with an electric Roller reefing lost its popularity in the late 1960s and early ’70s when the two- Roller reefing lost its popularity in the late 1960s and Roller Reefing the sail around the boom was used on the Bristol A method of reefing by rolling Single-Line Reefing Ease the main, slack the halyard to the mark, Single-line reefing looks wonderful. The Street improvement to the Dashew method is to have a second tack reefing the Dashew method is to have a second tack reefing The Street improvement to Then he took the clew reefing line to the mark and took up on a line secured to one mark and took up on a line the clew reefing line to the Then he took is attached to the mast by a universal joint that will take care of misalignment, but is attached to the mast by a universal joint that will take off center. This means that the misalignment is limited to about 45 to 50 degrees or on a close reach. If the sail can only be set, doused or reefed going to windward the point that the sail must the boat is running downwind, and the wind builds to a close reach before doing so. be reefed or doused, the course must be altered to the boom reefing/furling, but This would seem to me to be a major limitation of in of boats that had installed after the boatshow, Forespar had a party for owners boat had been twice around Leisure Furl and done extensive off shore passages. One had done 10,000 or so the world, two others once around the world, and others reefing/furling system. miles. All were very happy with their Forespar in-the-boom reefing/furling you However, they were all also wealthy. To convert to in-the-boom need deep pockets. run to an electric winch and the sail hoisted. To drop the sail, the halyard is led to run to an electric winch and the sail hoisted. To drop the roller drum is led to an a winch or turns taken around a big cleat, the line to the halyard slowly easing the electric winch, and the sail rolled up with the crew on rolled up, a cover that is halyard as the sail is rolled up. Once the sail is completely This means no UV degrada- stowed in the boom is pulled forward, sealing the boom. If a rainsquall comes by tion and rainsqualls will not fill the boom with rainwater. up the boom and all the rain and you want to collect water or take a shower, top a veritable waterfall. running off the boom will flow out by the gooseneck like ing the sail around a spool inside the boom. I have not sailed with in-the-boom reef- ing the sail around a spool inside the boom. I have not boom-mast angle is perfect. At ing/furling, which I am told works well as long as the maker of the popular Leisure the Annapolis boatshow, the boys at Forespar, the to make sure the Leisure Furl Furl, gave me a sales talk and an explanation of how a 90-degree angle to the mast. gave a good reef: the boom should be approximately at roller, if too low the sail work If the boom is too high the sail works its way aft on the and experiment. When the its way forward. Again, go out in ten to 12 knots of wind you are reefing make sure the angle is correct, mark the topping lift and whenever topping lift is on the mark. speed Barient winch came on the market. Sailors realized that slab reefing with lines speed Barient winch came on the market. Sailors realized and more easily. led to two-speed winches enabled sails to be reefed faster Channel Pilot Cutters back in the late 1880s and is still found on replicas today. This in the late 1880s and is still found on replicas today. This Channel Pilot Cutters back popular with ocean racers right after WWII and contin- type of reefing became very early 1970s. It was popular, as the main could be reefed ued its popularity until the triple reef. to any size: you were not limited to a single, double or take up on a single reefing line, re-trim the main and all is well. But single-line reef- take up on a single reefing are a lot of blocks in the system and each block causes ing is not a free lunch. There As time goes by, it often becomes harder and harder friction, requiring a big winch. is is because, no matter how carefully the system to crank down the reef. This rec- the tackles inside the boom will twist. I strongly designed and installed, in time you have a rigger who is familiar with single-line reefing ommend that once a year untwist it, check it for chafe and re-install it. pull the system out of the boom, eye about a foot above the first one. If the halyard or luff of the sail stretch, or the the first one. If the halyard or luff of the sail stretch, or eye about a foot above the the slightly too much, instead of cranking up on main halyard has been slacked and fed through the upper eye lead to the winch halyard, the tack line is unreeved It is much easier to tighten the luff by pulling down and the luff re-tensioned. rather than up! side of the mast and run through the tack reefing eye to a winch. He then took up reefing eye to a winch. and run through the tack side of the mast is much faster re-trimmed the main. This the topping lift, and on the tack, dropped boom, the clew Because of the angle of the method described above. than the usual two-blocking or so is under tension when slack and only the last foot reefing line is and tack lines the main is eased, the clew the reef out is faster, as the clew. Shaking method, and re-trimmed. With the standard and the main re-hoisted are thrown off, cranked up the rings and then the halyard to be slacked to unhook the halyard has luff. to tension the — DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 everything willbesmoothsailing. keep afirmhandonyouremotional helm and best todistractyouinthefirsttwoweeks butjust relationships andcommunicationswill dotheir the shipincaseofashort-noticecharter. Creativity, last week,sousethetimebeforethat to prepare your senseofhumor. you needitmostandignorethebackedsailsof free timetoenjoytheholidays. last halfofthemonth.Usethisrelativelyaspect- will pickupsomefreshbreezesinyoursailsthe ress onthatcourseintheNewYear. with lovedonesandyouwillmakepositiveprog- little fun. they aren’thavingsuchacalmmonthandneed invite yourfriendsoverforapoop-deckparty: advantage ofthislull.Perhapsitwouldbefunto than thatyouarerelativelyaspectfree,sotake boat thismonth. dence. Don’tdespair;manyothersareinthesame domestic relationships,ingenuityandcorrespon- frustrating withflukywindsandchoppyseasin sailing butafterthethirdweekthingswillturn up yourpositiveattitude. so bereadytohoistthechuteagainanddon’tgive self-expression willblowawaybythethirdweek, spirit inthesecondhalf. first halfofthemonth,andthenenjoyholiday first twoweeks.Beasproductiveyoucaninthe and cruiserlyconversationswithhumorforthe come downthehatch. ing windsandcontrarycurrents.WaitforSantato ships andproblem-solvingabilitieswillmeetshift- but aroundthethirdweekyourpersonalrelation- put obstaclesonyourcourseuntilthethirdweek. month, creativity,articulationandromancewillall ble attheendofmonth. around WeekThree.Makeasmuchwaypossi- ity, lovelifeandgiftofthegabwillallgetalift Happy holidays! romantic fantasiessailawayduringthethird. verbal skillsbeforethesecondweek,andletyour DECEMBER 2014 Business willbetheprevailingweatherin Your energyisonarisingtide,souseitwhere The firsttwoweekswillbeuneventfulbutyou Use yourverbaltalentstomakeprogressintalks Your senseofhumorwillbebecalmedbutother Ho, ho,ho.Thefirstthreeweeksmaybesmooth Any smallsquallsinnewendeavors,loveand Approach romanticties,inventiveboatprojects The beginningofthemonthwillbeclearsailing, You’ll havethedrivetoaccomplish,butthis Boat businessisstillbecalmedbutyouringenu- Make themostofyourcreativeinspirationand SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

KEN DYER Oh Lord,canyouflattentheseawfulroughseas? The windwardside’scrazy,butsoisthelee— Doyle says“aneasyreach”,butitain’tbeenforme! Oh Lord,canyouhelpuswiththesegreatbigseas? I’ve gotthejuice,Lord—hurryupwiththatrum! The windsofSaintNicholasquiteearlyhavecome. The weather’sbeencrazy,it’stimeforsomefun! Oh Lord,won’tyoubuymeabigjugofrum? sung byofJanisJoplin) (To thetune‘MercedesBenz’ CHRISTMAS WINDS The NightBefore Christmas “Merry Christmastoall,andallagoodnight!” And Iheardhimexclaimashesailedoutofsight, But thedolphinsproceededtopullhimaround He gotclosetoshoreandhesoonwasaground I hopedhehadnotmanystopslefttomake. As hesailedawayleavingawobblywake Here’s toeverylastsailor,mybestChristmaswishes!” Or whateveryournamesare,youcutelittlefishes, On TevaandMountgay,Antigua,Barbuda! “On FattyandFoxyOldBarracuda! And calledtothedolphins,nowswimmingwithease: With aburpandchucklehegatheredthebreeze But theguyraisedagennyandmains’linstead. The dolphinswerereadytopowerthesled, And thedudehoppedaboardandpreparedtomakeway. Eight tinydolphinsandabeautifulsleigh— As Ipeekedbeheldanincrediblesight— Then hestaggeredabovetothedarktropicnight. Then Ipouredoneforme(Isureneededadrink!). And Ipouredhimagrog,whichhedownedwithwink, I hopedhewasgivingandwasn’tjustselling, I thoughtitwasstolenbutwasn’ttelling, And somekindoffancyelectricalthingy. Like rumandcigarsnewchartsadinghy But hegavemeawholebunchofstuffthatIneed, His eyeswerelituplikeajunkieonspeed, So Ifiguredhemustbetheresidentdrunk. But helaughedandhummedassurveyedmyjunk, He wasdressedlikeanutandIthought,“I’msoscrewed!” Then downthecompanionwayhatchcameadude, “I’ve beenboarded!”Ithought,andtriedtobetough. When uponthedeckIheardfootstepsandstuff: Flaked outonthesettee,asleepwithmybook, ’Twas thenightbeforeChristmas;Iswungonhook — CruiserClaus

and bypopulardemandit’sbecomeatradition! for quiteawhile,butwe’vepublisheditbefore— this poemthat’sbeendoingtheroundsanonymously Along withthatrum,Lord,couldyoualsobringbeer? The bigpartyseasonisreallytoonear— Off totheVirginsI’mtryingsteer. Oh Lord,howIneedyou,pleasegetitingear! Head uporfalloff,thesailsneedatrim. Our rail’sinthewater,it’sgoneforaswim. Some friends,theyhavecatsnow;I’veforgiventhesin. Oh Lord,canyougiveusalittlelesswind? — JaniceNagle

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DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4 ESO Christmas Tree Star Cluster found in the Cone Nebula near the constellation Orion A short list of discoveries in 2014 including the num- ber of asteroids approaching Earth Deep sky in January. 1) Monkey Head, 2) 37 Cluster, 3) NGC 2194, 4) NGC 2141, 5) NGC 2022, 6) NGC 2112, 7) M78, 8) Horsehead Nebula, 9) De Mairan’s Nebula, 10) Great Nebula in Orion, 11) Satellite Cluster, 12) NGC 2232, 13) M47, 14) M41 Conjunction of planets on November 6th, 1AD Conjunction of planets on November orbiter took Rosetta team. Rosetta All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) Jim Ulik is a photographer and cruiser currently Wednesday, December 24th and Thursday, Thursday, December 24th and Wednesday, dusk. Two Mars line up in the west at The Moon and Puppid–Velid Friday, December 26th - the Puppid–Velid meteor This is the peak night for Sunday, January 4th - Saturday, January 3rd to January 1st through The shower runs annually from Monday, January 5th – Full Moon The Moon becomes full at 0054 AST and almost Monday, January 12th – Deep Sky January is a good month for finding some deep sky In the News Comet sniffing is in the news. The first discovery of unless otherwise noted. The times are based on the viewing position in Grenada and may vary by only a few minutes in different Caribbean locations. based in Grenada. an electronic sniff of a comet. The comet is made up an electronic sniff of a comet. The comet is made up primarily of water ice and dust. At least 11 compounds have been identified in the comet’s atmosphere. Five of those compounds — methane, carbon dioxide, ammo- nia, methanol and formaldehyde — can originate from organic sources. Landing a probe on the comet was the next step. Tracking down the source of the compounds is the next task for the December 25th – Christmas December 25th sky are posi- comets in the December of the seven is 94 percent a bright Mars, which tioned very near pass as a there anything that could illuminated. Is Not likely. This season the Christmas Star this year? far away and arrived too comet Siding Spring was too a modern-day Christmas early to be a candidate as Q2 Lovejoy? It is the Star. How about comet C/2014 It will reach the closest brightest comet this period. 7th. Look for it near Sirius point to Earth on January The only planets vis- in the constellation Canis Major. Saturn. The only planet ible at night are Jupiter and 10th, 2015 between conjunction occurs on January Mercury and a bright Venus. meteor shower meteors is approximately shower. The velocity of these The maximum number 82,770 mph (133,200 km/h). from a dark location of meteors expected to be visible is around 15 per hour. Quadrantids Meteor Shower 5th. It peaks this year on the night of the 3rd and the morning of the 4th. The Quadrantids is an above- average shower, with 40 to 100 meteors per hour at its peak. The best time to look is after midnight, from a dark location. It is thought to be produced by dust grains left behind by an extinct comet. Meteors will radiate from the constellation Bootes, but can appear anywhere in the sky. They will enter our atmosphere at 90,000 mph, burning up 50 miles above Earth’s surface. Unfortunately the nearly full moon will block out all but the brightest meteors this year. directly above Port-au-Prince, Haiti (2354 EST). It will set at 0636 only to rise again at 1830. objects in the night sky. The winter skies can be clearer because there can be less moisture and turbu- lence in the atmosphere. Numerous deep sky objects can be found in the constellation Orion. Ten of them are noted in Figure 3. Two of the famous nebulas are number eight, The Horsehead Nebula, and number ten, the Great Nebula in Orion. The locations of four other deep sky objects that might be found are includ- ed in the graphic. The Moon will not interfere until it rises at 2359. organic molecules found on a planet outside our solar system was in 2008. Recently the THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN

by Jim Ulik

The Sky from Sky from The Mid-December Mid-December These are the peak nights for these meteors. It is Monday, December 22nd to Tuesday, December Monday, December 22nd - New Moon This phase occurs at 2136 AST (0136 UTC). With no Now back to astronomy: the December or winter Sunday, December 21th – December Solstice This day marks the two-year point past the end of The planets have taken their seasonal positions in The winter solstice is approaching and people are The winter solstice is approaching to Mid-January predicted that there will be approximately ten meteors predicted that there will be approximately ten meteors per hour and no moonlight to interfere. Historically there have been outbursts of 25 per hour. The source is the constellation Ursa Minor (the Little Bear) also known as the Little Dipper. The longer meteor streaks are traveling towards you and the shorter ones are traveling away. 23rd - Ursids Meteor Shower Moon to interfere, this may be a good time to find the Moon to interfere, this may be a good time to find the Andromeda Galaxy in the northwest sky after sunset. solstice occurs at 1903 AST (2303 UTC). The Sun solstice occurs at 1903 AST (2303 UTC). The Sun reached its most southerly declination and will be directly over the Tropic of Capricorn at 23.44 degrees south latitude. The tropic of Capricorn was named over 2000 years ago when the Sun was positioned in the constellation Capricornus during the winter sol- stice. Currently the Sun passed from Ophiuchus entering Sagittarius. the Mayan calendar, which some concluded was a the Mayan calendar, which some concluded was a prophecy that the world would end. Another doomsday prediction gone wrong! the constellations. Mercury, Venus and Pluto are in the constellations. Mercury, Venus and Pluto are in Sagittarius. Uranus is positioned in Pisces. Neptune sits in Aquarius. Mars is located in Capricornus and visible in the western sky at dusk. The only two plan- ets that are visible most of the night are Jupiter, located in the constellation Leo, and Saturn in Libra. The stars and planets position and movements are known. But discoveries are still being made. Check Figure 2 for the latest cosmic scoreboard. gearing up for the holiday season. Was there a gearing up for the holiday date of this event is not Christmas Star? The actual did associate the documented. Ancient civilizations and spirits. The move- stars and planets with gods also connected to weather ments of these objects were astronomical events and seasonal events. Infrequent or the conjunction of such as eclipses, visible comets religious manifesta- planets were often considered of Venus and Jupiter in tions. The natural procession occasionally lining up, their orbits has these planets Another event that took creating bright apparitions. place 2,013 years ago probably attracted a lot of atten- tion. Look at Figure 1. There was a conjunction between Jupiter, Venus, Mars and Mercury. To the naked eye the four planets combined must have been a spectacular sight and shown very bright in the east- ern sky. That natural event was sure to have religious significance for some believers. This close pairing of planets actually happened on November 6th, 0001. DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 is aprettylazywayofdoingit. your washingmachines,right?Tobehonest,way wash mystuffbyhand.Butyouguysonlandhave bars onthesidesofboat.SonowyouknowhowI with freshwater,thenputthemtodryonthesafety scrub, thensqueezethewaterout,rinsetwice soak forabouthalfanhour,andagainscrub, detergent. ThenImixandscrubleavethemto with water,andthenIputallthebedcoversinit worst part:washingagain!Ihavetofillupabucket thing, whichreally,reallysucks.Thencomesthe sailing. Andahugewavesplashesontopofevery- I washmyclothesorbedcoversandthenextdaywego thing getssaltywet.Andwehavetowashitbyhand! cruising. Theworstpartofsailingisthateverysingle able islands.It’sreallygreat. travel, meetnewpeople,wegosailingandseeremark- nothing todo.Soyeah,Idefinitelypicktheboat.We were watchingmoviesthatarenotforkids,andIhad my brotherwouldn’tletmeinhisroom,parents kitchen, andallthatcoolstuff.Butitwasboringwhen though. WehadahugeTV,leathercouch,big is small,proportionalandcozy.Thehousewasokay opposite ofclaustrophobic.Hereintheboatmyroom mention itwasprettyempty.I’mmuchthe sters. Myroomwasthebiggestinhousenotto scared becauseIwasyoungandbelievedinmon- of goingtothebathroomatnight.AndalsoIwas I’m willingtoholdmybladdertillthemorninginstead scared ofthedarkandIstillamalwayswillbe. think I hardest question,harderthangod-forsakenmath!I the housebackinCanada.Thatwasprobably Nomadik about thingsIlikeanddon’tinthis CRUISING KIDS’CORNER [email protected] www.barefootyachts My SchoolIsNot aBuilding But letmestartwithonethingI My momaskedmeifI’dratherliveontheboatorin Hello people!It’sMayahere.TodayIwillbewriting Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL The ThingsILikeandDon’tAboutCruising like boat-life. theboatbetter.InhouseIwasalways

Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop don’t like Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters by Maya,age11 about hang outwithme. always works!Worst-casescenario:theydon’twantto hang out?”Or“Hi,wanttobefriends?”Anditalmost friends iseasy.Iusuallyaskthem:“Hi,doyouwantto It savesmefromgoingcrazyontheboat.Meetingnew meet newlocalkidsandalsootherboat-kidslikeme. awesome! Ilovegoingtothebeachandotherplaces genius, somanynewfriends:old,young,everyoneis borhood combined.Butsinceweareontheboat,it’s count onyourtenfingers,atschoolandinmyneigh- Back inCanada,Ihadonlyafewfriendsthatyoucan friend Noialfrom human powerthatKingNeptunehasgrantedme. breathe underwater.Iamblessedtohavethissuper- It’s afeelingnoteveryonecanfeel;it’sasthoughI scary greatwhitesharkchillingontheoceanbottom. less andfearlessofwhat’saroundme.IfeellikeI’mthe now, whenIdivedeeptotheoceanbottom,feelflaw- sharks, barracudas,remoras,andstufflikethat.But the creepyanimalslurkinginsidevastocean: couple ofmonthsagoIwasterrifiedbydeepwaterand never beensoproudandhappyformyself.Justa Martinique. ButI’lllearntoholditevenlonger.Ihave breath for32seconds.Wedidatestatthebeachin but I’msureIwilllearntogodeeper.canholdmy eight metersdeep.Prettymuchasmydad you don’tbelieveme,yourloss.Idive,like,sevenor ter itself.Ihavebecomeaprofessionalfree-diverandif school inGuatemala,becauseIdidn’tspeakSpanish rassing soIwon’tshowittoanyone.Shehelpedmeat music. Istillhavethatonmyphonebutit’sembar- in thecockpitwhenmybrotherVikwasDJ-inghis phone, andalsowhenwerecordedourselvesdancing our ownbreaking-newsvideosthatIstillkeeponmy exploring canyons,jumpingfromwaterfalls,making drawing, sleepovers,chatting,climbingmountains, hours later.Imissplayingwithher,swimming, the pool,shecameforasleepover,justcoupleof my schoolisthewholeworldaroundme in Guatemala,orstudyingontheboat, wearing traditionaldresswithmyfriendNoial Whether examiningafreshlycaughtfish, But sofar,sinceGuatemala,Ireallymissmybest But thebestthingI The reallycoolthingI S/V Friendship like like aboutcruisingisfriends. aboutsaltwaterissaltwa-

. Thedaywemetat NENCHEVA (ALL) NENCHEVA your timeandreading! and Ithinkwillendithere.Thankyoufortaking school kiddoesinaclassroomforoneweek! traveling andtalkingtopeopleinonedaythenany school ontheboatisprettygreat.Ibetlearnmore three stepsatthesametime! Traveling, 2)Reading,and3)Growingup.I’mdoingall It alsosaidthatthethreestepsoflearningare:1) took placeonlyatschoolnoonewouldevergraduate.” it on“K”andreadabout Encyclopedia alphabetic andit’scalled SCHOOL ISNOTABUILDING,itistheworld! And Ialsohavesomethingtoteachyoutoday:MY really gettingonmynerves.Idoactuallygotoschool. free-diving. I’mfitnow. the legsofHerculesbecausewalking,climbing,and the climbingIdid.lostalotoffatandmylegsbecame am braggingbutallI’msayingisthatproudof never everforgetit,andit’sjustwonderful!NotthatI insect-green. TheCaribbeanisagreatplace,Iwill the beautifulplant-,trees-,fruit-,vegetable-and green, butthevegetation-greenofCaribbean.All waterfalls andnaturalpools. Pintero. Itwasawesome!Wealsovisitedalltypesof and wehadaguidetwomules:Margarita Caribbean! Ittookustwodaystoreachthesummit Dominican Republic,thetallestmountaininallof not tomentionthegreat,oneandonlyPicoDuartein Soufriere inGuadeloupe,MontPeléMartinique,and Diablotin andtheBoilingLakeinDominica,laGrande been doing:weclimbedMountSceneryinSaba,Morn volcanoes. Ihavealistofallthebestclimbingwe’ve and whoknowswhenwewillmeetagain… new friends,wehavetoleave,orthey cruising. Everytimewemeetcoolpeopleandmake you onlyrealizewhathadafteryou’velostit. have, whichItotallyregretdoing,butliketheysay: right aboutnow.Wedidarguemorethanweshould and wesailedaway…Ialwayswonderwhatshedoes other thenextday,oreversince.Wehadgoodwind birthday, said“Seeyatomorrow”,andneversaweach the lasttime.Wehugged,wishedeachotherhappy tenth birthdaytogether.ThatwasthedayIsawherfor almost atthesametime.Wecelebratedourdouble these happymemories…Noialandme,wewereborn our clotheson.Ifeellikecryingwhileamwriting ran. Weusedtojumpinthewaterafterschoolwith taught mehowtodivefromthestepsofourcatama- school withthelocalkidsforafewmonths.Also,Noial in thebeginning,andwewenttogethertothislocal Anyway, Iwantedtowritethisbecauseit’sallfacts Did I There isyouranswertoreallyannoyingquestion. I havethishugebookontheboatfullyillustratedand Everyone wemeetasksme,“Whataboutschool?”It’s Green becamemyfavoritecolor.Notthemoney- Another thingI Of course,leavingisonethingI like schoolbackinCanada?Notsomuch.But . I learned a lot from it, and when I opened . Ilearnedalotfromit,andwhenopened like ishikingupmountainsand knowledge The Random House Children’s The RandomHouseChildren’s it said, “If learning itsaid,“Iflearning .com don’t like about DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

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So you see, miracles do happen! THE END Everyone in the village wondered where the gifts had come from. Who could afford Everyone in the village wondered where the gifts had come The next morning the children woke up and there at the bottom of their beds was The next morning the children woke up and there at As the afternoon was drawing to an end, the happy women gathered up their empty As the afternoon was drawing to an end, the happy women On Christmas morning everyone was busy cooking and making all the dishes that On Christmas morning everyone was busy cooking and Granny and Motsy went to all the houses in the village and told the women what all the houses in the village and told the women what Granny and Motsy went to Granny gave Motsy a big hug, then she grew serious and said, “But we must start then she grew serious and said, “But we must start Granny gave Motsy a big hug, “That’s a wonderful idea, In a small village in the hills of an island in the lower Caribbean, the women didn’t of an island in the lower Caribbean, the women didn’t In a small village in the hills to buy such gifts and who could sneak into their cottages and leave the gifts on the to buy such gifts and who could sneak into their cottages but everyone agreed it was children’s beds? No one had an answer to those questions it was a real Christmas mira- the happiest Christmas anyone could remember, yes, cle. a Christmas gift — a bright ball or a small cricket bat, a spinning top or a pretty doll. a Christmas gift — a bright ball or a small cricket bat, of her bed a silver angel doll Meanwhile in Granny’s cottage, Motsy found at the foot always wanted. with golden wings — something that the little girl had dishes, put away the benches and wished each other “Happy Christmas”. dishes, put away the benches and wished each other had been promised. When they were ready, benches were set up and the food and had been promised. When they were ready, benches screaming and laughing drinks laid out. Children were running about underfoot, reason to be excited about and chasing each other because they had never had any ones, trying not to laugh, and Christmas before. Mothers were scolding their young And what a feast it was, with everyone was hungry and anxious to begin the feast. and all washed down with everyone tucking in and going back for second helpings Granny’s fruit juice. sprinkled with a little vinegar, because avocado always went well with a salad. A few sprinkled with a little vinegar, because avocado always and one said she had an old women who kept chickens promised hard-boiled eggs a good, hot chicken stew bird that had stopped laying so she would boil it and make of that! As for something to with chewy dumplings. Everyone would want some lemon tree right next to her drink, that was easily solved because Granny had a big of delicious juice. guava tree and with Motsy’s help she would prepare jugs they had in mind. The mothers agreed that it was no hardship to make a special dish agreed that it was no hardship to make a special dish they had in mind. The mothers The thought they told Granny what they could make. to share and after a little promised bowls of salad or dishes of cooked beans, women who had cottage gardens a One old mother promised to make cassava pone, eggplant, carrots, corn or yams. Another old lady who had an avocado tree in her yard sort of cassava short bread. ripe ones, take off the skins and put them in a big bowl said she would slice all the organizing the food right away because Christmas Day is only a week from now.” because Christmas Day is only a week from now.” organizing the food right away and celebrate Christmas!” said

Christmas gifts or special food, either. But then Motsy have any money to spare for a little Christmas cheer. Like a lot of young children had an idea to bring everyone off with her grandmother because her own mother was in the village, Motsy lived better life for herself, and eventually for Motsy. So Motsy somewhere trying to make a one let’s get each of the mothers to make just said to her grandmother, “Granny, and we can share them all between us!” special dish for Christmas The VILLAGE VILLAGE The CRUISING KIDS’ CORNER CRUISING DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34

Lesser Antillesin Puerto Rico ABC Islands Trinidad Jamaica Cuba Haiti Cayman Islands Dominican Republic charts. Fairtides! the tidefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon 0 1028 0934 0843 20 0756 19 0710 18 0627 17 0544 16 0502 15 0419 14 0335 13 0248 0200 12 0110 11 0018 10 0000(fullmoon) 9 2325 8 2232 7 2140 6 2048 5 1957 4 3 2 1 DATE TIME December 2014 For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill www.freecruisingguide.com CRUISING GUIDES

MERIDIAN PASSAGE Compliments of: DECEMBER -JANUARY2015 Boca Chica, DominicanRepublic OF THEMOON www.marinazarpar.com 0 0340 0258 0214 0129 10 0042 9 0000(fullmoon) 8 2353 7 2307 6 2211 5 2119 4 3 2 2027 1 1936 January 2015 1845 31 1754 30 1703 29 1611 28 1557 27 1421 26 1323 25 1224 24 1125 23 22 21 FREE Marina 3 volumes 1 2149 2059 2008 31 1916 30 1825 29 1735 28 1641 27 1549 26 1445 25 1400 24 1303 23 1204 22 1104 21 1005 20 0908 19 0815 18 0722 17 0634 16 0548 15 0509 14 0422 13 12 11 Zar-Par grow upto60cm(twofeet)inwidth. shade tree.Theheart-shapedleavescan lower branches,whichmakesitagood arching topcanopy,asopposedtolotsof smooth brownbark.Thetreehasan dark spinesorpointsthatgrowonthe the veryrecognizablemultitudeofsharp the “MonkeyNo-Climb”monikerfrom weight ofallthatheight.Itgarnered with atrunkwideenoughtotakethe to aheightofabout40metres(130feet), the largestnativetrees.Theycangrow native totheCaribbean,andisoneof known astheMonkeyNo-Climb,is Cat vsChristmastreevideos? videos madeaboutthem,exceptforthose Really, howmanytreeshavehadYouTube a coupleofinterestingclaimsto“fame”. should youhearaloud“crack”,betterduck. Youmightbeassailedbyflyingdolphins! extra totheirarrows. fish, whiletheCaribstookadvantageof the poisonoussaptoaddalittlesomething tree’s sapiscausticandpoisonous.Insome areas,fishermenusethesaptopoison fruit orpodsegmentscanmakenicenecklace pendantsandearrings. jewellery atstrawmarketsandcraftsales. Withalittlecare,andsomesanding,the Pistol andMonkey’sDinnerBellarederived fromthefruits’propensitytoexplode. makes. Injurieshavebeenknowntooccur!TheothercommonnamesofMonkey’s the treeisalsoknownasDynamiteforloudsoundexplodingfruit edly shoottheseedsagreatdistancevaryingfrom14to45metres.Insomeplaces, of thevideos.Thesepodscanexplodeorburstopenwithaloudbangandreport- a sandboxforblottinginkwhilewriting;thusthename.Theseedpodisalsostuff early colonialtimes,theunripefruitwashollowedoutandfilledwithsand,tocreate about 7.5cm(threeinches)wide,lookinglikelittlepumpkins,have16segments. In the scoop),withpetalsaroundtophavingcolour,whilebaseisgreen. has nopetals.Thefemaleflowerisshapedsomethinglikeanicecreamcone(without on thesametree.Themalelookssomewhatlikeaclusterofdarkredberries, and Beware ofFlyingDolphins! The SandboxTree– LOOK OUTFOR… something specialtolookoutfor. The Sandboxtree,alsosometimes When walking through the damper areas of a Caribbean forest under partial shade, When walkingthroughthedamperareas ofaCaribbeanforestunderpartialshade, Handling thefruitandseedsisperfectly safewhentheyaren’texploding,butthe The maturefruitsegmentslookliketiny dolphins,frequentlyseenbeingsoldas The otherrecognizablepartofthetreeismatureseedpod.Thesepods,whichare This speciesoftreeproducestwokindsflowers,amaleandfemale,bothfound The Sandboxtree( As youtravelthroughtheCaribbean,everymonththere’s Hura crepitans by LynnKaak ) has ) has DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

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of One Degree of One Degree Can a Difference a Difference Can SALTY’S BEAT BY NATHALIE WARD BY NATHALIE SALTY’S BEAT Determine the Sex Determine That You Could Be? That You warm sand results in eggs that hatch much more quickly (and may have warm sand results in eggs that hatch much more quickly

PROUDLY SPONSORED BY CONSERVATION: CONSERVATION: SPONSORED BY PROUDLY Nathalie Ward, PhD, works with the US National Oceanographic and Atmospheric What’s the conclusion? Rising temperatures increase the chance that sand tem- Relatively cool sand produces males, relatively warm sand produces females, but Relatively cool sand produces males, relatively warm Climate Change Effects might climate change impact If temperature affects the sex ratio of sea turtles, how The incubation duration is inversely proportional to the temperature. This means The incubation duration is inversely proportional to the For sea turtles, the critical period This factor is known as Temperature- Unlike humans and most vertebrates, whose gender is determined by sex chromo- Unlike humans and most vertebrates, Unlike many animals, a sea turtle’s sex is not determined at the time of concep- Unlike many animals, a sea Salty is a humpback whale who loves to sing. Every the winter he swims throughout who loves to sing. Every the winter he swims throughout Salty is a humpback whale Administration’s Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary, perature will exceed the upper limit for egg incubation, which is 34°C. Climate change may also affect the nesting grounds of turtles as sea levels rise. Beaches cur- rently being used by turtles might vanish under the sea. Ocean acidification (caused by increased CO2 levels) could potentially alter the sediment of the beaches, which may lead to inadequate conditions for incubation. Sea turtles select their nesting sites based on several factors, such as low salinity, sufficient space above the high- tide line, adequate vegetation (for some species), high humidity, etcetera. All of these may be affected by an increase in average global temperatures. extremely populations in the future? As it turns out, the temperature-dependent sex determi- populations in the future? As it turns out, the temperature-dependent are already resulting nation story may be incomplete. Currently, rising temperatures number of males. It has been in a greater number of female sea turtles and a smaller warming of average tempera- suggested that if there is even a one-degree Celsius warming exceeds three tures, an even more significant bias could occur. If average occur. degrees Celsius, mortality rates of the eggs may also change isn’t just resulting in development problems because of this rush). Climate or less fit sea turtles. many more female turtles; it might be resulting in weaker that at higher temperatures the incubation period is shorter, and at lower tempera- that at higher temperatures the incubation period is shorter, tures the incubation period is longer. during development when the sex is determined appears to be during the middle third of incubation. The pivotal temperature — the constant incuba- tion temperature that produces equal numbers of male and female hatchling sea turtles (when the sex ratio is clos- est to 1:1) — is approximately 82 to is available. 86°F (28 to 30°C) for all sea turtle species for which data dependent Sex Determination, or TSD. Female hatchlings are produced at warmer temperatures and males at cooler temperatures. For example, in green turtles, temperatures need to be 88°F or above for the eggs to become females. For males to develop, the tem- perature is around 82°F. If the tem- perature of incubation falls somewhere between 82°F and 88°F (28-32°C), a mixture of the sexes develop. Heat pro- duced by the eggs themselves can also contribute to the incubation tempera- ture — eggs in the center of the nest become females and the eggs along the periphery become males. somes (XX for female and XY for male), sea turtles lack these chromosomes. Instead, for male), sea turtles lack these chromosomes. Instead, somes (XX for female and XY the sex of sea turtles, which means the tem- incubation temperature determines a large role perature of the nest plays in the sexes of the baby turtles. tion, but instead is greatly influenced by the temperature of the sand where the eggs influenced by the temperature of the sand where the eggs tion, but instead is greatly are incubated. the Caribbean Sea. He doesn’t need a passport because he’s an international citizen! need a passport because he’s an international citizen! the Caribbean Sea. He doesn’t friends the sea turtles? Want to know more about his DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up Month’s Keeping KidsBusyAfloat

Ashore onProvidencia Calendar ofEvents Read inNext & SantaCatalina The ARCArrives Pull-Out 2015 … andmuchmore! Compass Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: : 325°F for45minutesoruntiltestercomesoutclean. greased andflouredloafpan.Bakeinapreheatedovenat gradually foldintothebuttermixture.Pourbattera thoroughly. Combineflour,bakingpowderandapinchofsalt, eggs oneatatime.Addthegratedpeelandessencemix settles thepartyingstomach! from thetruegingerroot,notfakechemicalflavors.Ginger The regionalholidaydrinkisgingerbeeroralemade for theyareeasytomakeandthetasteisbeyondthisworld. the useofyouroven!Ihopeyouenjoymakingthesecakes, baking, myfatherwoulddraintheham. and top.Bakinginthismannernormallytookabouttwohourstofinishallyourcakesbreads. cover thepot.Onthistinwereplacedpiecesofburningembers.Thismadeacoveredpanwithheatatbottom regular bread—incoatedpansandplacethosethepotwithheatedwater.Apieceoftinwasusedto with wateroveritandletcometoaboil.Thentheywouldplacethecakemixture—orsweetbread, were readyforthemakeshiftoven. for thesweetbreadandcakes.Bythistimecakesweremixed,regularbread grating thecoconutforsweetbreadonahomemadebiscuit-tingrater. have madeadifferenceinthequantityandqualityoffinishedbakedgoods.)Wewerealsogiventask and sugarlightenoughforthecakes.(AsIreminiscewonderhowmuchofmixtureweate,ifitwould down, Grandpawouldaddmorewood.InthemeantimemybrothersandIweregiventaskofbeatingbutter a footdeep.Hewouldplacechoppedpiecesofverydrywoodinthehole,tillitwasthree-quartersfull.Asburned we knewalternativewaysofbaking.Mygrandfatherwoulddigaholeaboutfootandhalfindiameter weren’t eyingit. to threehours.Hewouldcheckoccasionallymakesurethewaterwasstillcoveringham—orstraydogs if necessary.Thencamethebigmomentwhenhewouldplaceahaminbiscuittinandleaveittoboilfortwo of stones.Hewouldthenlightthewoodtoheatwater,andletitburnforabouttenminutes,addingmore he wouldputpiecesofdrywood.Nextabiscuittinthree-quartersfullwaterbeplaceduponthetriangle and playedapartinthepreparations. is thestoryofmyChristmaschildhoodinTrinidad,whereparents,grandparentsandbrothersallgottogether A CaribbeanChristmastoRemember Sift togetherflour,bakingpowderandsalt.Cutinbutteruntilmixturelookslikefinelygroundbreadcrumbs. 3/4 Cupevaporatedmilk 4 eggs 1/2 Cupofmixedpeel 1/2 Cupchoppedcandiescherries(redandgreen) 1 Cupraisins 1 1/4Cupshreddedcoconut 1 1/4Cupgranulatedsugar 1 Cup(8ounces)butter pinch ofsalt 4 teaspoonsbakingpowder 3/4 Cupflour Golden CoconutCake Cream butter,beatinthesugargradually,andthen 4 teaspoonsbakingpowder 4 Cupsflour 1 teaspoonalmondessence 1 teaspoonfreshgratedlimepeel 8 largeeggs 2 Cupsgranulatedsugar 2 Cups(onepound)butter Pound Cake Have asafeandMerryChristmas,oneall. Here areacoupleofsimplecakerecipesyoucantry—with It maysounddifficult,butonceyougetahandleonit,itbecomeseasy.Bythetimeeverythingwasfinished When thefireinholewasredandnotsmokinganymore,mymotherwouldplacealargepotquarter-filled My motherwasresponsibleforkneadingtheflourbreadandmygrandmotherwouldsortingredients We didnothaveanoven,allwehadwasatwo-burnerstove,butthatneverpresentedproblemforusbecause My fatherwouldfindthreerocksalmostthesamesizeandplacetheminatriangleonground.Atfront I loveChristmasinTrinidad,everythingaboutit:thetogetherness,parangmusicand,ofcourse,food.This a strainerunlessyoulikepiecesofgrated ginger. stop thefermentationprocess.Refrigerate overnight.Irecommendpouringitthrough for abouttwofulldays,butnotindirect sunlight.Thenputthebottleinfridgeto of spaceatthetop.Screwcapon,orcork, andshakeagain.Leaveinawarmplace halfway andshakewelltomixallingredients. Addmorewater,leavingaboutaninch grated gingerrootandlemonjuice transferittothebottle.Addwaterfill close toboiling. results, sterilizeallofyourequipmentasmuchpossible.Immerseitinhotwater, you can’tfindaglassone,cleantwo-litreplasticbottlewillwork.Forthe best desire moresharpness. soda. Squeezealimeandlemonwedgeintotheglass.Increasegingersyrupif you cool. Filltallfestiveglasseswithice;addonepartgingersyruptothreeparts club dissolved andgingerissoftened,abouttenminutes.Strainwarmsyrupallow to minutes beforeserving. into agreasedroundpanandletbakeforonehourat325°F.Coolinten add toflour,stirringthoroughly.Addthemilkandcombinewell.Pourmixture Stir insugar,coconut,raisins,cherriesandmixedpeel.Beateggswell,slowly Shirley Hallistheauthorof Through afunnel,putsugarandyeast intothebottle.Inabowlcombine You’ll needafunnelandtwo-litreglassbottlewithscrew-tightcaporcork. If filtered orbottledwater 1/4 Tablespoonbaker’syeast juice of1lemon 1 Cupsugar 1 Tablespoonofthefreshestgingerrootyoucanfind,peeledandgrated Ginger Beer In asuitablepotcombineginger,sugarandwater.Simmerslowlyuntil is fresh minttogarnish(optional) 1 lemonand2locallimesslicedintowedgesseeded club soda 2 Cupswater 1 Cupsugar(orlesstotaste) 1 Cupfreshginger,peeledandthinlysliced Instant GingerAle by ShirleyHall TheNewCaribbeanHomeGardenHandbook. DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

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' S The Ocean Sailing Yacht R E M , , U D A and kudos to the crew of and kudos to the crew R Compass Compass E O Bucky (Newton McLawrence) is a Dominican who is I helped rejuvenate kids’ sailing in the south of YOUTH SAILING AT PORTSMOUTH, DOMINICA Again, thank you so much. Blessings and peaceful Thank you so much for warming my soul even I cannot even begin to tell you how much I enjoyed WARMING MY SOUL As a footnote to my article in the August issue on As a footnote to my article in the August issue on Excellent article in the October issue of Excellent article in the October ‘MOST PLAGIARIZED’ YACHTING AUTHOR? ‘MOST PLAGIARIZED’ YACHTING FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' Carriacou and had been watching the success of the local team who took over, now, two years on, doing a better job than I could have, when I got a call from my friend, Bucky in Dominica. Dear waters to you all. Shelly www.TropicalTreasureHunters.com though my body is freezing (21°F here in Iowa). I will though my body is freezing (21°F here in Iowa). I will be joining the ranks of the newbie sailors, I hope — even if it means a salvaged 30-foot sailboat to fix up. reading the November issue! From all of the pictures reading the November issue! From all of the pictures (where can I get a picture of that boat with Christmas lights?), to the stories — my wanderMUST is kicked into full gear! Dear keeping belowdecks cool, after a lecture in the keeping belowdecks cool, after a lecture in the Annapolis boatshow where I showed the omni-direc- tional windscoop, one of the audience said that they had seen them in the Middle East, ventilating build- ings. He was told that that type of ventilator had been in use since 800AD — obviously it is a very effective design. Don Street Glandore, Ireland whom the loss of the rudder was a major inconve- nience, but not a disaster. You state that you had the idea of how to rig that type of emergency rudder because it was described in an article in a yachting magazine. That type of emergency rudder is drawn on page 609 of my book 1, printed in 1974. In the late 1970s and the ’80s so many articles appeared in yachting magazines where the basic info came from OSY that I was often asked, “What does it feel like to be the most plagiarized yacht- ing author in the world?” Compass Dear Chris Doyle, DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 WORLDWIDE ReadytoShip t Compatible Turbine Fuel t Available UponRequest 500Gal.-LargerSizesReadily t AuxiliaryFuelBladders t FUEL BLADDERS FUEL FARTHER RANGE? TRAVEL GOT +1-201-825-1400 in theLloydsmarket. able tointroduceboatownersspecialistbrokers with brokersandunderwritersatLloydsam business for47years.Ihavedevelopedarapport BOATBLADDERS EVER BEFORE WITH... BEFORE EVER BOATBLADDERS

TELEPHONE: In-Stock & Gas, Diesel,& Standard Rugged, Reliable,&Safe I havebeenconnectedwiththemarineinsurance e-mail: [email protected] “I’ll domybesttominimizeyourincrease!” Thereisgoodinsurance,therecheap your insuranceisuntilyouhaveaclaim. Rather, thehonestbrokercanonlysay, No longercanbrokerstalkoflowrates. Capacities 25to insurance,butthereisnogoodcheap The insurancebusinesshaschanged. insurance. Youneverknowhowgood www.street-iolaire.com ALSO IDEAL FOR IDEAL ALSO Myclaimssettlementrecord PERSONAL WATER CRAFT CRAFT WATER PERSONAL Insurance THAN THAN Marine cannot bematched. ? S [email protected] EMAIL: ATL INC-RAMSEY, NJUSA REFUELING TENDERS & & TENDERS REFUELING .COM .COM WHILE OUT AT SEA! AT OUT WHILE RAMSEY, NJ other solutionispossible … — Dear The Netherlands Michel Sarolea the water. uphold thetraditionofsailorshelpingeachotheron every deliveryexperienceimprovesourquality.Alsowe nice feelingtobeofanyworthsomebodyelse,and a “falsecompetition”withotherdeliverycompanies. my ownNautiber extremely limited. on theisland,optionstosailcompetitivelybecome Optimist sailingdinghiesandtheMosquitoesavailable improve theirsailingandnavigationalskills. Dear Grenada Rene Froehlich at www.grenadateamsailing.com. ing talent. from theUKwho,likeus,wantstopromotelocalsail- sponsor, aregularvisitortotheGrenadaSailingWeek promised supportandwehavesignedourfirstmajor onshore accommodationiftheyneedit. importance totheisland. enthusiasm forasportthatisofgrowingeconomic level. Withoutthiswerisklosingtheirtalentand yacht tohelpthemtaketheirexperiencethenext introduces themtothebasics,butIneedacompetitive Georgia itwasapparentthatthere notenough for thistrip. — myfirstexperiencewithanenragedMother Nature tured outontheirownandseveralboats hadsunk Hudson Riverinfloodseason,whenmany docksven- in theOswegoandErieCanals survived the lock. ByNovemberwehadmotoredthrough 43locks it wascrossingLakeOntarioandheading tomyfirst my 42-footLancersloop, was south—islands,islandsandmoreislands. ready tocruisetheCaribbean.Myonlydestination to sailon racing inGrenada.Sponsorswillgettheopportunity share ourconcernsaboutthefutureofcompetitive inviting sponsorshipfromfriendsandcolleagueswho beyond myownbudget.Sowife,Daniela,andIare project willbeapproximatelyUS$75,000—well ing myownlabourfreeofcharge,thecost bulb istenfeet.Thedisplacement1.162kilos. fiber andlightweightfiberglass.Thedraftwithfin The planinghullisbuiltinstripplankingwithcarbon bined. CodeZeroisapproximately774squarefeet. of sail:main,jibandasymmetricalspinnakercom- beam ofninefeet.Itcarriesaround1000squarefeet competitive sailors. building andtrainingthenextgenerationofGrenadian racing machinethatwillprovideaplatformforteam design whoseworkingtitleis Roger Adamscollaboratedwithmeontheone-off Nicolas RoelensandboatbuildersJeffFisher a yachtoftherightcalibremyself.Navalarchitect wide rangeofprojectsIknewhadtheskillstobuild fessional designerandbuilderwithexperienceona would costapproximatelyUS$140,000.Butasapro- EMPOWERING GRENADA’SYOUNGSAILINGTALENT We [email protected]. The reasonweofferthisassistanceisthatitgivesa Since 2013IhaverunSailingSchoolGrenada,using Once youngsailorsinGrenadagrowoutofthe COME TOLUPERON Find outmoreaboutRF33 A localbusiness,TheCanvasShop,Grenada,has We workedourwaydowntheICW.When wereached I headedoutonacoldOctoberdayfromToronto After renovatingmyboatforfiveyearsIwasfinally Work onthehulliswelladvanced,butevenprovid- The overalllengthoftheboatis35.6feetwitha Finance isanissue.ThesortofyachtIhadinmind only when there are special circumstances and no only whentherearespecialcircumstancesandno Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass RF33 Readers, Readers, inoneofourlocalregattasplus

cruiser, , because we don’t want to make , becausewedon’twanttomake La Vita Dione RF33 , tohelpyoungpeople . Whatagloriousday . Itisalean,mean Dione RF33

since sold cane hole.However,IfellinlovewithLuperon.have sail totheotherislandsandreturnmysafehurri- with 3/4ofanacreandfullutilities.ThatwayIcould protective mangrovesfullofPombirds.Majestic harbour, withwhitebeachesattheentranceandlush my sailingbudget. in theTurks&Caicos,whereIspentthreemonthsof US$650 formysafethreedays).Istayedweeks expiration ofmypermit,owingtoweather.Ipaid best barnone.IlefttheBahamas(threedaysafter were notgreat,theprotectionofharbourwas thinking “hurricanehole”. Irene! received anothergiftfromMotherNature:Hurricane long storyshort,IwasintheBahamasforayearand repairs andinduetimeGeorgetowntheExumas.A The jibwasshredded.WewereofftoMan-O-Warfor sliced ajibsheettofreetheandprotectfurling. large butmandatoryforthesizeofmyyacht,and grabbed theemergencyfireaxe,whichisridiculously the furledjibhasaballooninit!TwohourslaterI mega-gear hadclockedgustsof145mph.Holdon— more. Themegayachtattheendofdocksaidhis roared againwithTropicalStormwindsat65mphand next day,SpanishHarbour.ThatnightMotherNature later water ontheICWwithmy6’3”keel.Fifty-twohours Dear www.Putulas.com Kathay McColl will beahighlight. or forhurricaneseason,youwon’tbedisappointed.It miss Luperon.Whetheryouarehereforafewweeks river. Wearealsoacruiserinformationcentre.Donot favourite places,amountain,toswiminfreshwater beaches, historicalsites,waterfallsand,oneofmy by motorbikeandbustothespectacularnorthshore now, calledPutula’s.Wedoexcursionswithcruisers e-mail) ifclarificationisrequired. address, andawaywecancontactyou (preferably by be editedforlength,clarityandfairplay. Please keeplettersshorterthan600words. Lettersmay name maybewithheldfromprintat your request. We donotpublishanonymousletters;however, your individual regattaresultscomplaints.(Kudos areokay!) Twelve hourslaterIwasenteringthemostbeautiful Luperon keptpoppingupand,althoughthereviews While researchingthenextpartofmytrip,Iwas WE WANTTOHEARFROMYOU! I havealittlecruisers’barandbarbecueintown Be suretoincludeyourname,boatname or shoreside We wanttohearfromYOU! Send [email protected]. We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaints or La Vita Compass La Vita wasatUmbrellaIslandintheAbacos.The Readers, , builtahouse,andIrentmydock. buy adocktokeep and comfortable.Idecidedto charming. Lifehereissimple helpful, respectfulandvery afraid. Thepeoplehereare have Ifeltuncomfortableor female captainandatnotime farming village.Iamasingle Luperon. Itisafishingand harbour andthetownof January 31st,2011. around. Ahhhh.Thatwas glass ofwine,andlooked lounge chairondeckwitha returned tomyboat,setupa glass ofwineintheTurks!I than twoburgersabeerand paid myfees,whichwereless the appropriateofficeswhereI officials andtakenbydinghyto Beautiful! Iwasgreetedbythe announce yourarrival. holes actingliketrumpetsto mountains, caveswithblow- I haveexploredthisbeautiful La Vita safe, DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware e-mail: [email protected]

, and PM s Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear PM We cruisers are not sneaking out without a fair share of blame, either. What crazy a fair share of blame, either. not sneaking out without We cruisers are boats to the be reporting derelict responsibility: should cruisers As to combined Hurricane Gonzalo and the beaches are still littered At this writing it’s weeks after would work together instead of displaying antago- If cruisers and the authorities For those who have Australian cruiser reason is there to stay in an outside bay open to the north with a Tropical Storm due, open to the north with a Tropical to stay in an outside bay reason is there What on to come inside the Lagoon? the special bridge opening instead of using in the full people at anchor in the Lagoon hurricane plan? Why were earth was their for a certain Fortune (the correct name any direction between Mt. wind zone from into studying Didn’t they put any time and Explorer Island? well known headland) Season? spots before the Hurricane the best-protected to improve their so they can be ordered the Hurricane Season authorities before removed? situation or be no salvage value. They sit rotting while some authori- with derelict boats, ones with for the eyesore and saying we should be paying for their ties are blaming the cruisers pay Expecting people who have lost everything to removal before the tourist season. boat is clearly not going to occur. Nor can devastated for someone else’s abandoned while struggling to rebuild. marine businesses afford to will as fat wallets versus anti-authoritarianism) we nism (perception of cruisers have safer future Hurricane Seasons. And if we can’t survive 100 knots, let’s get the anchor up before June and head north or south. lost everything, my heart goes out to you and I hope this article hasn’t offended you or opened the wound. I’m just trying to make it better for the future. Mark Jensen Sea Life Mark Jensen has cir- cumnavigated in his Beneteau 393, has anchored in the Great Barrier Reef dur- ing a Category 5 cyclone. Currently in St. Martin, he will cruise the Mediterranean in 2015. Above: Simpson Bay Lagoon on October 13th, 2014, at 12 noon, 3:00 hurricane-force winds, Below: A general idea of the hardest-hit areas. Not expecting many owners had left their boats in their usual locations and 5:00 Fax: (758) 452 0311 when the wind FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR PM rocketing to $7,000 by Johnson Hardware Ltd. Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils AM

Tel: (758) 452 0299 Tel:

Letter of of Letter Month the Readers,

. Fortunately some businesses, like Atlantech Diver Services, and Steve . Fortunately some businesses, like Atlantech Diver

Compass PM Price gouging by a few salvage companies started within hours after the storm, Price gouging by a few salvage companies started within The French volunteer rescue boat was high and dry, bottom stove in, on Marigot beachThe French volunteer rescue boat was high and dry, bottom The only Coast Guard boat seen in the lagoon for the week after Hurricane Gonzalo The only Coast Guard boat seen in the lagoon for the week In the calm after the storm was a complete lack of emergency response. We cruis- In the calm after the storm was a complete lack of emergency They say there’s a calm after a storm and just before dawn no one was moving; no a storm and just before dawn no one was moving; no They say there’s a calm after I know it’s 100 knots because I’ve never been in 100 knots before and I’ve never I’ve never been in 100 knots before and I’ve never I know it’s 100 knots because Just to clarify: during the hurricane no one could do a thing to help anyone; by The personal injuries, the loss of boats and the destruction of docks by boats could The personal injuries, the loss of boats and the destruction Of course there are difficulties predicting fast-developing storms like Gonzalo — it Of course there are difficulties predicting fast-developing The apparent slackness of the authorities started before the hurricane with a lack The apparent slackness of the authorities started before In the news reports immediately following the hurricane, why were the numbers of In the news reports immediately following the hurricane,

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

with a quote to lift a boat given as US$2,400 at 11:00 thanks to a towline not picked up promptly and catching the rescue boat’s propellers. thanks to a towline not picked up promptly and catching was on the Dutch side, attending a deceased. The French not at all until some did a was on the Dutch side, attending a deceased. The French routine paperwork check on me two weeks later. ers are a pretty resilient and independent mob; give us a spanner and we will fix it ers are a pretty resilient and independent mob; give us The guys who book you ourselves, but where were the coast guards of two countries? after a storm vanish? when you forget your flashlight at night but before and one could. Boats were tangled in marinas, on the beaches, rocks and mangroves, and in marinas, on the beaches, rocks and mangroves, one could. Boats were tangled the Causeway were at least six boats. Nor could the sur- spread like spiders’ webs in had flipped. The few who could were doing that “flush- vivors move as their dinghies water” trick. But no one was moving to see if anyone ing the outboard with fresh were still in the water. needed help, to see if injured were lying below, if survivors imagined winds like this, so, it must be 100. On the next boat to mine shrieking fingers it must be 100. On the next boat to mine shrieking fingers imagined winds like this, so, the rolled and suddenly rip it open to flog until of wind sneak under a tightly feet of a man’s head on deck the mast rips free, crashing forestay breaks and within and unattended, derelict, breaks free of its mooring into the deck. Another boat, smashing into boats, wrecking hulls, topsides, lifelines careers around the anchorage built of love and varnish and both boats, the derelict until it T-bones a family’s boat of towards the Causeway Bridge, its pylons jaws and the pristine, drag inexorably boat hits first. Its mast splinters, falls, but still the boat death. The uninsured family’s it the derelict until, like the family’s retirement dreams, is rammed into the pylons by is crushed. Dear was already about 50 knots. nightfall it was every person for themselves and Maydays on VHF were not request- ing help but merely telling people they were adrift. If would have been foolhardy for any authority to have been in the Lagoon in a RIB after about 3:00 have been averted, in some part, by better leadership by authorities on both sides of have been averted, in some part, by better leadership in good training and planning; the island. It must start before the Hurricane Season boats in unsafe areas; moni- before the storm in better alerts on VHF and orders to the storm. toring during the storm; and a full response effort after went from nothing through Tropical Storm to Hurricane in mere hours. Perhaps the went from nothing through Tropical Storm to Hurricane Sunday exacerbated the lack low staff levels at the National Hurricane Center on a when it was called a Tropical of good data. But why were there no reports on VHF the French Coast Guard Storm? We knew it was one by early Monday. Why didn’t the Lagoon? Of the 13 boats order all the boats at anchor in Marigot Bay to go inside beaches and as of this writing anchored there, 12 are now wrecked upon the pristine before the tourist season. The (early November) still proving an eyesore, just weeks old codgers: “It won’t blow lack of government weather reports allowed sway of the were projected through VHF, hard, sonny”. It’s amazing how far the naysayers’ voices Facebook and the walkways of the marinas to the anchorages. of weather reports in English and precious few in French. MRCC Fort de France, of weather reports in English and precious few in French. French only, and without a Martinique did some weather reports after midday in The Dutch did no weather warning alarm signal on VHF or using the DSC alarm. reports in any language at any time. boats destroyed so low? Because no authority took a look. Finally the cruisers did boats destroyed so low? Because no authority took a destroyed, or washed up. their own survey. There were about a hundred boats sunk, (See http://hurricanegonzalostmartin.wordpress.com.) Coetzer of SeaCure Marine Construction who lifted the French volunteer sea rescue Coetzer of SeaCure Marine Construction who lifted the says, “Sea Rescue do every- boat, have integrity and used their normal rates. Steve thing for nothing, so the least I can do is help them.” 5:00 DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40

www.cruisingoutpost.com 31 –1Feb 29 –3Feb 29 –1Feb http://jamaicajazzandblues.com 29 –31 26 25 (OurLadyofAltagracia) 22 –25 (MartinLutherKingDay),andtheDominicanRepublic www.discoversvg.com/index.php/en/mustique/events 21 –4Feb 21 DominicanRepublic.www.caribwind.com 17 –18 17 16 –24 15 –18 13 9 –25 andatPinney’sBeach,Nevis www.paneraitransatclassique.com 7 andinHaiti(FoundingFathers’Day) 6 5 inTrinidad,www.ssca.org 2 JunkanooparadesintheBahamas; SSCANewYear’sDayGam 1 –4 1 –4 1 JANUARY 2015 half-dayholidayinCuraçao atNelson’sDockyard,Antigua.PublicholidayinMontserrat; Bonaire;andFort-de-France,Martinique. OldYear’sNightParty includingTrellisBay,Tortola;AdmiraltyBequia; Kralendijk, 31 31 28 –4Jan 28 27 -28 26 26 26 25 www.beyc.com 24 21 20 &26-27 19 www.apassion4jazz.net/havana.html 18 -21 16 -24 15 www.sailingrallies.com 14 13 13 andatPinney’sBeach,Nevis 13 [email protected] 7 6 [email protected] 6 5 -11 5 DECEMBER 2014 ULMO ate tTelsByadWs n,Troa StartofPaneraiTransatClassiqueRace,LanzarotetoMartinique. Publicholidayinsomeplaces(ThreeKingsDay/Epiphany) FULLMOONPartiesatTrellisBayandWestEnd,Tortola, PublicholidayinCuba(VictoryofArmedForcesDay) Publicholidayor“recoveryday”inmanyplaces(NewYear’sDay); 24thAnnualGustavWilmerdingMemorialChallenge,Tortola. FULLMOONPartiesatTrellisBayandWestEnd,Tortola, GustavWilmerdingRegatta,BVI.WestEndYachtClub. SinterklaasBirthdayCelebration,Bonaire PublicholidayintheCaymanIslands(NationalHeroes’Day) Publicholiday inAruba(GFCroesDay) PublicholidayinBarbados(ErrolBarrowDay),PuertoRicoandUSVI RoundAntiguaRace,www.antiguayachtclub.com PublicholidayinPuertoRico(EugenioMaríadeHostosDay) NewYear’sEve/OldNight.Fireworksinmanyplaces, NelsonPursuitRace,Antigua.www.antiguayachtclub.com TobagoKiteFestival,Plymouth,Tobago.(868)639-5428 BoxingDayRace,Barbados.www.barbadoscruisingclub.org Publicholidayinmanyplaces(BoxingDay) Publicholidayinmanyplaces(ChristmasDay) 14thAnnualNorthSoundHolidayLightedBoatParade,VirginGorda. PublicholidayinAnguilla(NationalHeroes’Day) Winter Solstice PublicholidayinBonaire(KingdomDay) StartofChristmasCaribbeanRally,CanaryIslandstoAntigua. Commodore’sCupRace,Tortola,BVI.www.royalbviyc.org PublicholidayinSt.Lucia(NationalDay) FirstAnnualDominicaPokerRun,[email protected] St.Kitts&NevisCarnival.www.stkittsneviscarnival.com AntiguaCharterYachtShow.www.antiguayachtshow.com St.BartsMusicFestival.www.stbartsmusicfestival.org DominicaChristmasRegatta,[email protected] 30thAnnualHavanaInternationalJazzFestival,Cuba. NineMorningsFestival,St.Vincent.http://discoversvg.com at thetimethisissueof aac azadBusFsia,MneoBy JamaicaJazzandBlues Festival,MontegoBay. BequiaMountGay MusicFest. SanSebastianVelaCup,Juan,[email protected] MountGayRumRoundBarbadosRaceSeries. 13thCaribbeanMidwinterLaserRegatta,Cabarete, Crucian ChristmasCarnival,StCroix.www.facebook.com/stxcarnival St. CroixChristmasBoatParade.www.christmasparadestcroix.com CrucianChristmasCarniva,StCroix.www.facebook.com/stxcarnival utqeBusFsia. CruisingOutpostcruisers’party,RoadTown,Tortola. GrenadaSailingWeek. SuperYachtChallengeAntigua.http://thesuperyachtchallenge.com MustiqueBluesFestival. so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. HightideChristmasSeries,Antigua.www.antiguayachtclub.com All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledge If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismeventlistedFREE and contactinformationoftheorganizingbodyto www.caribbeancompass.com We areon-line: in ourmonthlycalendar,pleasesendthename and date(s)oftheeventname [email protected] CALENDAR Compass See adonpage11 went topress—butplanschange, See adonpage10 See adonpage13 all theway. watching thecompass. into anisland.Ifwesteeredatnightusedthestars,fareasieroneyesthan watch thehorizonand,sureenough,atinyblacksmudgewouldemergeandgrow house magneticpoleandthereweremanyearlymorningswhenhewouldtellmeto restricted sights,sometimesfordays.Themanseemedtohavesomesortofin- made landfallwhenandwherehesaid,despitecurrentsbadweatherthat husband, wasgoodatsunsights,oneinthemorningandnoon.Wealways morning withtheBBCpips.Theonlypowerneededwasbrainpower.Barry,my we toppedupwithicewhencould.OurloowasaLavac;nopowerneeded. iceboxes thatkeptblast-frozen,vacuum-packedmeatsolidformonths,aslong gers backthen.Ifthelightsdimmed,wewenttobed.Wehadtwowell-insulated the engineandotherforhouse.Nosuchthingassolarpanelsorwindchar- worked justfine.Electrically,thingsweresimple.Wehadtwobatteries:onetostart the saloon. rough. Manygratefulhourswerespentatseawatchingitworkfromthewarmthof Aries windvanesteeringsystem,anamazingmechanismthatseemedtoloveit grounds ofthosedays,itwasplenty.Ourbiggest“modern”investmentthenan she tookanythingtheseathrewather,andinIndianOcean,ourcruising a Lloyd’scertificateofapprovalforthehull.Everythingwasshinyandstrong changed overtheyears. to knowthat.Wheredidthetimego?I’mnotsure,butIdothatthingshave and theirjawsdrop,Ihastentoaddthatwasachildbride.Hardly,butthey’renot the pinholesizecockpitlighton after whichwewouldslidehomeinthe offshore Tradesinourtinydinghytowards cerned. Aninebriatedandamusinggame ofvolleyballwouldfollowonthebeach, Camembert, wine,pâtéandattention, especially whereanythingfemalewascon- the boredtroopswouldwelcomeusliterally withopenarmsandplyus north againafewhundredmilestothe nextFrenchisland,JuandeNova.Here, fish, incredibleshellsandimmaculately clearwaterthatheldustillwemoved mating noisilynexttotheboat,quitea to-do, reefsharks,dolphins,coral,loadsof was obligatory.Itanunimaginablybeautifulplacecompletewithgiantturtles quitoes. Ikidyounot.Afasttrotfromlandingthedinghytoweatherstation was aFrenchmilitaryoutpost,completewith(andIthinktheonly)saltwatermos- so weremostlyunspoiledbycivilization.Europa,thefirstislandoutofDurban, miles roundtrip.Theseislandsweren’tontheround-the-worldsailingroute and was kind. We sweatedsometimes,butitwasworthit.werecarefulandtheAccidentAngel reefs andcurrents,youcouldbeoffcourse50milesin24hourscometogrief. happy toliveontheedge.TheIndianOceanwaschallengingandexciting,lots of hands missthoseguys! to sneakthestaffwhenweneededthem.Howmightyhavefallenandhow my fixing wehadaboatingbusinessbackhomeinDurban,SouthAfrica,whereused charger, butthat’sanotherstory. bad weather.IalmostlostBarryoverthesidewhenhewasattackedbywind- pips. OneyearwelistenedtotheWimbledonfinalswhilehoveoffMadagascar in radio, usedsparingly.Ifwemotored,gottolistenBBCformorethanthetime kept agoodwatchandlitupifwesawtraffic.OnourlatertripsalsohadanSSB WHAT”S ONMYMIND Life back‘then’includedtakingasunsightaboard (and Where’s theIbuprofen?) Navigation wasalldonewithasextantandwatch.Timecheckedevery Antifouling paintstayedonforyears;weusedconventionalhardredandit Back then,intheEighties,ourferro-cementEndurance40wasnewandcamewith The Boat When Itellpeoplethatmyhusband,Barry,andhavelivedonaboatfor33years Our tripsthenwerefromDurbannorthtotheSeychellesislands,about5,000 Environment We wereinourthirties,(me)andforties(Barry),fullofenergyconfidence Us On thewhole,demandwaslittle,boatmaintenanceleanandwhenthingsdidneed Running lightstookalotofpoweratsea,noLEDthen,sowesailedwithout, Then andNow by CandyColley Syrius . Ifwemesseditup,wasAfrica’seastcoast Syrius , somewhereatsea —Continued onnextpage DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 Caribbean ): Microwave bold Navigation Lights Navigation Communications: Communications: Radio/ CD Player Hydraulic Steering Readers! When in St. Lucia, pick Engine Hours: Under 10 Engine Hours: Additional Features: Additional Standard Horizon DSC VHF Horizon DSC Standard at any of these locations (advertisers in Compass Ahoy, up your free monthly copy of the Compass this issue appear in Regis Electronics FOR SALE Year: 2009 Year: Mechanics: Mechanics: Beam: 8’ 6” Beam: Length: 23’ 4” Length: Serious offers only - Call: (784) 488-8465 - Call: only Serious offers Asking Price: US$30,000.00 (ONO) Asking Price: 23’ Atlantic 245WA Fishing Boat Atlantic 245WA 23’ Engine/ Fuel type: Café Olé, DSL Yacht Charters Island Water World, Johnson Hardware Rodney Bay Boatyard Bistro & Office Rodney Bay Marina Office Rodney Bay Sails, The Bread Basket St. Lucia Yacht Club Chateau Mygo Restaurant Dolittle’s Restaurant Marigot Beach Club Marigot Customs, Marigot Bay Hotel SMMA Office Minimum Draft: 1’ Draft: Minimum Specifications: Model: 245WA Atlantic 245WA Model: Twin Outboard Motors Outboard Twin Twin gas Yamaha 115hp Yamaha gas Twin RODNEY BAY AREA MARIGOT BAY SOUFRIERE PICK UP! doesn’t doesn’t in Curaçao), a Syrius to your boat a thing of the past? No. We’re still here at 76 and 63, with no plans to Syrius Continued from previous page Continued from So, all said and done, and reading the news of the other world as we do every day, And let’s face it, commercialization does have a good side. There’s better and more Today, as I write this, we’re on a mooring here in beautiful Bonaire. We swim every Frankly, I think it’s too late to leave. We’re barely able to relate to society anymore Don’t Give Up the Ship So yes, it’s different now. Am I writing this from an air-conditioned apartment some- Environment We all know how crowded the Eastern Caribbean has become. It’s hard to get away Us up we’re not as gung-ho as Well, we’re getting older too. When the weather kicks Then there are today’s prices of marine replacement parts and the quality you get Then there are today’s prices of marine replacement parts Antifouling just doesn’t seem to work anymore and without our much-repaired to work anymore and without our much-repaired Antifouling just doesn’t seem The Boat I should be 33! She’s taken good care of us, as we have She is a lot older now at 33. Fast Forward to Now in the Caribbean Fast Forward to Now in the all over these parts from Barbados to Belize and the Since then, having wandered Finally in 1991, after selling the business, we left South Africa and headed for the we left South Africa and after selling the business, Finally in 1991, Next islands were the Comoros and Isle Glorioso and finally the Seychelles, all Glorioso and finally the were the Comoros and Isle Next islands we volunteer to stay to the end and turn the lights out when we leave. LED lights, of course! available medical care (useful if you’re older), and internet access is a cinch. You can sign up with Digicel and the contracts continue between the islands, which is really handy. This keeps you in touch with friends and family, sometimes more than you’d want! In the Eighties there was no such thing: we literally fell off the planet for six months and that was that. Barry once received a posted letter from his mother three months after she died! It had been all over the Indian Ocean islands’ General Delivery postal departments. Creepy. Plus the internet’s also good for ordering things you need (useful if your boat’s older and God bless you, Amazon). Stuff will get here in two weeks via E-Zone, FedEx, whoever. day from the back of the boat, it doesn’t get any easier. The water is warm and clear and, depending on where you are, you can see big tarpon close up (and I mean big), many types of reef fish, turtles, squid and healthy coral. Believe me, there’s nothing wrong with it. and I can’t really remember where all those different forks go on the table. where, abandon ship and the only ones left out here of all our friends over the last 20 years. from civilization, and when you do you don’t see the sea life in the water that you did even three years ago: I cite Islas Las Aves as an example. In other places, there are too many pricey buoys, visa restrictions, etcetera. Love of money is ruining Paradise here, as it has done in many other parts of the world. understand that. understand that. Yes, it’s different now — but we have no plans to give up the ship! we used to be; there’s more concern. Did somebody put the fender under the din- we used to be; there’s more concern. Did somebody supported. There’s a WHAT ghy? It has a habit of taking off across the deck if not but coming?? And we tire faster, want to do less maintenance, for those prices. Much head shaking in the marine stores as we fork over the bucks. for those prices. Much head shaking in the marine stores Gotta have it, so shuddup and get over it. Brownie’s Third Lung we would have problems. We delay our haulouts, and the Brownie’s Third Lung we would have problems. We be as promised and the next months between when the antifouling starts not to haulout are always too long. very power-hungry fridge. Windcharger and solar panels do the trick but in Windcharger and solar panels do the trick but very power-hungry fridge. least favorite months, sometimes our little green gen- September and October, my out jumping to attention like a little smurf and helping erator is our new best friend, and manage, but have to think about the fuel, etcetera, via the battery charger. We power we are going to make. how necessary is the noisy her. But she’s getting possessive. Maintenance is now relentless and upkeep of the Maintenance is now relentless and upkeep of her. But she’s getting possessive. for I am responsible for visual maintenance, Barry dreaded amp another challenge. very where we “deal”. Regarding electrics, things are functional. Many areas cross, for the Internet, Skype, movies, electric loo pumps, long different. Now it’s computers woman who delivers water showers (there’s a wonderful US East Coast up the waterway to the Chesapeake and back, we have finally come to the Chesapeake and back, we have finally come US East Coast up the waterway in the area between Aruba and the Venezuelan islands to rest for the last ten years of Los Roques. Caribbean. No plans, just retiring on a more permanent basis. No pensions, no retiring on a more permanent basis. No pensions, Caribbean. No plans, just Never did have. Just commitment and big anchors. insurance policies of any kind. equally beautiful, welcoming and affordable. There were hardly any other boats and There were hardly any welcoming and affordable. equally beautiful, we could over the we went as many times as It was Paradise and zilch visa problems. so we could the east coast of South Africa is conveniently situated on years. Durban meant waiting winds were favorable. This we could get away and the shoot off when south-flowing to blow us up inside the preferably a gale, for a southwester, we would leave clocked into the northeast current and when the wind Mozambique beat plenty. and work our way north. We east across the current the coast, head — DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 DOMINICA YACHTSERVICES PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Incl. Pilots, Chandlery, Charts, TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 YACHT SERVICES - Relax!Leavetheworktous MID ATLANTIC Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices www.midatlanticyachtservices.com EU-VAT (16%)importation Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Trans-Atlantic Yachts! www.dominicayachtservices.com [email protected] +767-448-7701 Fax +767-275-2851 Mobile/445-4322 Dominica Roseau &BaySt.Portsmouth 18 VictoriaSt. Hubert J.Winston [email protected] CARRIACOU REALESTATE Property ManagementonCarriacou Jeff Fisher–Grenada(473)537-6355 Tel: (473)4438187Fax:8290 [email protected] and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthechartertrade well-built sailsthatarewellsuitedtothe for acompetitivequoteonruggedand Check outourwebsiteorcontactusdirectly S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada stainless steelandaluminiumitems. TechNick Ltd. welding. Fabricationandrepairof e-mail: [email protected] We alsohandleVilla Rentals & MARKET PLACEAD or contactCarolyn Alexander at For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: Engineering, fabricationand Carriacou RealEstateLtd Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 www.neilprydesails.com THIS COULDBE Land andhousesforsale Nick Williams, Manager [email protected] YOUR www.carriacou.net Grenada NEILPRYDE Sails continuedonnextpage Call: (473)443-9399 Located ontheKiraniJamesBlvd.(LagoonRoad) Phone (473)4436500orcallCH16 Sunday Brunch 11.30-14.30 Sunday Brunch Reservations recommended Reservations Open 11.30-2.00for Lunch Situated ontheSouthSide Tyrrel Bay,Tyrrel Carriacou Use ournewDinghyDock 6.00 -9.00for Dinner Tuesday toSaturday Yacht Services&Deliveries Bar openallDay of Tyrrel Bay. Tyrrel of Free WiFi DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 e r o t S for Tel/Fax: Tel/Fax:

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DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 www.caribbeancompass.com We’re onWeb! the We’re & marine services center & marine services center make direct contact via: For further details please MID ATLANTIC MID ATLANTIC are looking for new owners. are looking for new Some background within the Some background within YACHT SERVICES YACHT [email protected] Atlantic islands offshore chandlery Atlantic islands offshore PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES / FAIAL, HORTA PT-9900-144 Proprietors of this highly successful Proprietors of this highly help carry on the seasonal operation. help carry on the seasonal or a marine business environment will or a marine business international yachting community and/ international yachting Plenty of room for growth/expansion & Plenty of room for growth/expansion new ideas w/ an enviable quality of life. E L A S

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Stainless.com Stainless.com T U$75,000 before after H C comfortable salon and cockpit. A [email protected] YACHT FOR SALE FOR YYACHT for performance, comfort and aesthetics. for performance, Available at Caribbean Chandleries or Available Perfect sailing yacht for live-aboard looking Perfect sailing yacht for live-aboard Available at Caribbean Chandleries or Available Yacht yard. Great boat, priced to sell quickly. boat, priced to sell Great yard. Yacht Fully loaded including galley-ware and tools. Fully loaded including galley-ware Spotless Spotless Owned and maintained by yacht professionals. Owned and maintained by yacht Original 3 cabin layout, 2 heads, efficient galley, galley, efficient Original 3 cabin layout, 2 heads, Brush ON Rinse OFF No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. No Polishing. Currently hauled out in Trinidad at Power Boats at Power hauled out in Trinidad Currently Brush ON Rinse OFF No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. No Polishing. Makes Stainless Steel Sparkle. Makes Stainless Steel Sparkle. Morgan (Moorings) 50’ 1984 Morgan (Moorings) Spotless Stainless Spotless Stainless DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 com Tel:(246)422-5370 E-mail: stepgrif352@gmail. ready forthesea.US$7,500 the beachinBarbadosbut 8Hp EvinrudeOB,trailer.On Canada. Sleeps4,galley, NORTHSTAR 25’GRP1977 Tel: (268)464-7333 Email: [email protected]. .US$65,000. LyingAntigua Good shape,runningverywell Structurally solidasarock! BERTRAM 33,1977,2x3208Cats, E-mail: [email protected] Hall, St.Vincent. plete renovationatOttley Very goodcondition,com- 2x Yanmar2007,2,000hrs. BERTRAM 28FLYBRIDGE1983. [email protected] www.aviationcms.com E-mail: props w/over60speedprops. Bravo 1drives.40MPHcruise hauled byMercurydealer, 502 marineenginesover- shower(s), VaccuFlush,Mercury leather incabin,galley, Grenada. Gen-Set,A/C,white speedboat isavailablein POWERBOAT 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN 165.000US Tel: (758)4528531 E-mail: [email protected] 1983 34ftVINDÖ4540.000US 1987 IRWIN44MKII95.000US 2001 Bavaria46/3109.000US 1992 WARWICKCardinal46cc 2002 BENETEAU505175.000US 2003 GibSea51160.000US DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATIONPG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER aiba isl V MP MP MP MP 29 MP MP SVG Trinidad 44 21 Martinique 28 Martinique 47 Trinidad Caribbean Propellers SVG St.Maarten 35 10 2 Caribbean MarineElectrical St.Maarten 10 Caribbean Diesel Tortola C/W 37 Caraibes DieselServices SintMaarten Grenada Caraibes DieselServices Caraibe Marine 41 MP St.Maarten 24 Caraibe Marine Captain Gourmet MP SVG SVG 35 Camper &Nicholsons SVG 32 38 BVI YachtSales 27 Grenada Bugz BeGone Trinidad Budget Marine Boat Paint&Stuff Antigua Grenada SVG Blue LagoonHotel&Marina Bequia MusicFest Antigua Bequia Marina SVG C/W Bay IslandYachts Basil’s Bar Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik Art &Design Anjo Insurance Aero TechLab FORSALE

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E-mail: [email protected] generator, newbatteries. steering/AP. Electricwindlass, els, 6’RIB/4hpMercury,self- Volvo. New130wsolarpan- 41' AMELKETCH1977 [email protected] Tel: (784)528-7273E-mail: the markettoday! Cheapest Sundanceron sels, 1992 42’ SEARAYSUNDANCER [email protected]. Contact tophotosE-mail: US$50,000. LyingSt.Lucia. dive orcoastalcruise. instruments. Lowhrs.fish, ator, fullrigidbimini,A/C, Yanmar, bowthruster,gener- large cockpit,200hpTurbo- of Florida.Beautifulboatwith ACADIA 25byAtlasBoat onboard deckshower. gers, collapsibletop, Yamaha. Seats12passen- 28’ Bowen,2x200hp [email protected] 8828/457-4477 E-mail considerably Tel:(784)582- Must Sell,pricesreduced DIVE BOAT42’ swim platform/ladders stereo, deckshower/head, passengers, largehardtop, hp YanmarTurbo,seats20 38FT BOWEN excellent condition. excellent condition. withCaterpillardie- w/cabin, 2x300 w/cabin,2x300 US$60,000 US$60,000 75 hp 75 hp rndnsSis V 35 31 16 36 MP SVG 11 36 MP Grenada St.Lucia 34 SVG MP Grenada SVG Grenada MP Trinidad Grenadines Sails 26 33 MP Grenadine AirAlliance Grenada SailingWeek Tortola Grenada Marine C/W PuertoRico Gonsalves Liquors Golden Taste Trinidad 4 SVG Golden HindChandlery Gittens Engines USA Free CruisingGuides 38 Food Fair MP 5 MP 37 Fernando's Hideaway MP Fajardo Canvas International MP Tortola Electropics Trinidad St.Maarten Edward WilliamInsurance 22 St.Lucia Curaçao Echo Marine Grenada Martinique Doyle's Guides Dominica Doyle OffshoreSails MP Down IslandRealEstate Martinique Dominica YachtServices Dockwise YachtTransport Diesel Outfitters Curaçao Marine Crown Foods Clippers Ship

(868) 684-7720/634-2259 USD75,000 ONOTel: maran, 3cabin,1head. Light weight,cruisingcata- 41’ ROGERSIMPSONDESIGN [email protected] Tel: (473)443-7058E-mail: Tyrrel Bay,Carriacou.US$40,000 dinghy, 4hpYamaha.Located cushions likenew,9’Caribe solar panel,fullcanvas.All plotter, autopilot,watermaker, instruments 2012/13,radar,gps “Windborne” newrigging& BENETEAU FIRST38 [email protected]. Tel: (784)528-4440E-mail: details. US$280,000. www.yachtsudiki.com for crewed charteryacht.Goto GULFSTAR 61n E-mail: [email protected] US$20,000. LyingBarbados. launched 1978,Perkinsdiesel UK, veryhighstandard, CARTER 39 [email protected] Details andphotosE-mail: Harbour, Antigua.US$40,000. fridges etc.Britishflag,Jolly extends toengine,electrics, by IanAnderson.Damage very strongGRPketch,designed Full inventoryofworkrequired.A damage duetowateringress. SEASTREAM 431981 [email protected] Curaçao, NA.US$19,000.E-mail: Piscadera BayMarina, possible fromNov15th. going backtouniversity.Visits Low priceforquicksale,Iam WESTERLY DISCUS33 or [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] ADVERTISERS INDEX Fitted out Berthons, Fitted outBerthons, Successful CLASSIFIEDS Recent Recent f hr ikMngmn Troa 26 Tortola Off ShoreRiskManagement

Nicholson's CaribbeanYachtSales [email protected] with offers.E-mail:matthew. 2013. ContactMattSemark ions newOct2012.Surveyed Helm seats/aftsundeckcush- radio, aftswimdeck/ladder. toilet, navlights,newVHF (installed July’13).Head/ drive andaluminumprop New MercruiserBravo2stern 6LPA-STP2, 315HP,4–stroke. L-10.97m, B-2.44m,Yanmar BLACK PEARLVEDETTE [email protected] extras. US$55,000.E-mail: 220hp V6.Lotsofinstalled condition throughout.2x FORMULA 302002 [email protected] available. E-mail:aquatau- Martinique. Ð98,000.Flyer offshore sailing.Lying Fully equippedandreadyfor Gouwzee, NA.Draft5’9”. 40’ STEELKETCH,1986 [email protected] US$45,000. Robin,E-mail: ready tosail,lyingBequia, hauled outandrefurbished, Center cockpit.Recently GALAPAGOS 43`STEELKETCH Grenada. Tel:(473)406-8217 Canadian flag,lying ing andliveaboardvessel. galley, 2helms.Greatcruis- strms, 2heads/shwr&tub, and reliable2xHinodiesels.2 38’ BAYLINER Economical Economical elPyeSis rnd MP MP 45 33 37 Grenada Grenada 13 C/W Grenada MP SVG Barbados 27 18 MP MP DominicanRep 25 Neil PrydeSails MP Nauti Solutions Multihull Company 12 Azores Colombia Mount GayRegatta Grenada PuertoRico Trinidad Mid AtlanticYachtServices Grenada 39 McIntyre Bros St.Maarten 33/38 Marine World Marina Zar-Par Marina SantaMarta 15 Marina Pescaderia 7 St.Lucia MP Marc OneMarine 48 SintMaarten LIAT C/W SintMaarten Le PhareBleu MP SintMaarten Lagoon Marina UK La Playa St.Lucia Johnson Hardware Island WaterWorld St.Lucia 14 Island WaterWorld Island WaterWorld Iolaire Enterprises International Inflatables Harmony Apartel Immaculate design, design, Atga MP Antigua hotmail.com deep water. waterfront withsteepdropoffto location. Including50'ofsand $10 sq/ftdependingonsizeand to 9,000sq.ft.PricesfromUS$5 access, plotsavailable.0.9acres Court Bay.Excellentviews,water GRENADA [email protected] (613) 931-1868E-mail: 11,340 sq/ft.US$125,000Tel: Quatre andMustique. view ofPetitNevis,Islea property withspectacular La Pompe,oceanfront BEQUIA- BUILDINGLOT [email protected] Caribbean Sea.E-mail: buildings, 2min.walkfrom guest cottages,variousout- Dwelling house,2lowimpact Organic cocoaestate. GRENADA -15ACRES islandpace.com 458-3544 Email:emmett@ Island PaceRealty.Tel:(784) land, buildings,equipment. ager for31yrs.Complete taurant. Sameowner-man- Bequia’s mostpopularres- Waterfront location, BEQUIA-MAC’S PIZZERIA www.bequialandforsale.com views, largelotsfromUS$5/sq.ft. BEQUIA -MT.PLEASANT of theyachtingharbor. door toahotelinthecentre Water frontlocationnext RESTAURANT/BAR FORLEASE UNION ISLAND–CLIFTON- 5001 E-mail:[email protected] 443-6269 or+44208-621- EC$800,000 LauraTel:(473) Available immediately room, opensontogarden. apt has3bedrooms,1bath- large veranda.Downstairs has 2bedrooms,1bath, den on¼acre.Upstairsapt rey housewithfencedgar- Overlooking TyrrelBay.2sto- CARRIACOU -HERMITAGE www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern and multi-acretracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, www.caribbeanhouseforsaleonline.com www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com 2 baths,pool.Tel:(784)533-4865 Interesting &unusual,3bdrms, BEQUIA –MT.PLEASANT PROPERTY FORSALE RENTALS - East side Clarkes -EastsideClarkes E-mail aauMrn Vnzea 27 33 20 Venezuela Martinique Grenada16/MP 13 19 MP Trinidad MP YSATT Trinidad 23 Yacht SteeringCommittee Guadeloupe 9 PuertoRico Xanadu Marine Venezuela WIND Martinique MP MP Venezuelan MarineSupply MP MP St.Maarten Turbulence Sails 6 17 Triskell CupRegatta SVG MP Ti' Ponton C/W 8 Grenada Technick Grenada St.Lucia Sunbay Marina Trinidad Sugar ReefBequiaLtd SVG Panama St. MaartenSails Aruba MP MP SpotlessStainless C/W Slipway Restaurant Tortola MP Sea HawkPaints Rodney BaySails Renaissance Marina Red FrogMarina Power Boats Piper Marine Perkins Engines streetiolaire@ Lots Near Near Great Great C/W =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages42to44

[email protected] Tel: (784)431-5964E-mail: service guaranteed. Rental canhelp,affordable around? WeatAriesAuto Bequia andneedtoget BEQUIA- JEEPRENTALS email: [email protected] Tel: (784)4951177 excellent long-termrates. cable TV.2weeksminimum, view, coolbreeze.Internet, verandah andpatio,stunning or 1bedstudioapartment.Big Large 2bedroomhouseand/ LA POMPE,BEQUIA www.caribbeanhouseforsaleonline.com www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com & pool.Tel:(784)533-4865. Dec/Jan/Feb, 3bdrms,2baths Tahiti igloo,Rentalsavailable BEQUIA –MT.PLEASANT com/specials.htm at http://doylecaribbean. EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIALDEALS SAILS ANDCANVAS [email protected] Tel: (784)528-7273E-mail: Fully rebuilt,zerohrs. marine engines/ZFtransmissions. 3208 CATERPILLARS2x3208375hp E-mail: [email protected] http://www.smudge.com/ of water.Offers.Detailsat approx 35’&onein16’ Plantation House;onein 2x block&chainmoorings.Off ADMIRALTY BAY,BEQUIA [email protected] Tel: (268)764-2689E-mail: starters, 3xliftpumps.Offers. pumps, 3xinjection 300 series)3xfreshwater Model T6068T,TFM01(oldstyle, JOHN DEEREENGINEPARTS, EC$5000.Tel: (784)528-7273. 110/220V withonly6hrs. 4200W GENERATOR E-mail: [email protected] son. Tel:(784)455-3822 safe, readyforthenewsea- Private dinghydock,clean& MISC. FORSALE Trailer type, Trailer type, Visiting Visiting

DECEMBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 New rates: 1 December 2014 to 31 May 2015 31 May to 1 December 2014 rates: New at 1.5 times the standard Weekly rate. and monthly apply rates please contact a personalised us for quote. charged Multihulls are to yachtsto staying consecutively or 30 7 days for respectively. days For yachtsFor 100 above and bookings feet for LOA, of longer periods, up to 32 to up $0.85 $0.77 $0.72 up to 75 to up $1.50 $1.35 $1.28 up to 65 to up $1.45 $1.31 $1.23 up to 50 to up $1.20 $1.08 $1.02 up to 40 to up $1.10 $0.99 $0.94 up to 80 to up $1.65 $1.49 $1.40 up to 60up to $1.30 $1.17 $1.11 up to 100 to up $1.70 $1.53 $1.45 LOA in feet in LOA $/ft/day Daily $/ft/day Weekly Monthly $/ft/day making to dedicated are security hour 24 Bar, restaurant and swimming pool Haul-out and technical facilities nearby links air Excellent electricity and Water broadband Free — — sailing: your to spice little a Add this season Grenada Visit – Call 435 Danny 7431 Donelan (473) on +1 [email protected] email or – www.cnmarinas.com/plm – – – – Port Louis Marina a safe, secure provides berth with all the amenities expect a full-service from you’d marina run Camper by & Nicholsons. Our and knowledgeable well-trained staff – – — facilities world-class of combination a rare With and an authentic and unspoilt Caribbean the atmosphere, ‘Spice Island’ Grenada of is fast becoming ‘the’ Caribbean owners. destination yacht for and relaxing as stay enjoyable your as possible.

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