C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS MARCH 2012 NO. 198 TheThe CCaribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

GRENADA FESTIVAL 2012 – see story page 17 BOB GRIESER MARCH 2012 COMPASS PAGE 2 MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell Compass Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell : 74 77 01 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 696 [email protected] Puerto Rico: (787) 219 4918, [email protected] Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo (787) 863 5282 Olga Diaz de Peréz, Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432. [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Sales & Distribution spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: (787) 219 4918, [email protected] Distribution - Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg [email protected] Tel: (784) 457 3409 Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 Tortola/BVI: (787) 219-4918, [email protected] Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad; Boaters' Ltd, Tel/Fax: (868) 622-6580 [email protected] : Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Island Poets ...... 42 Island Poets ...... 43 Sky The Caribbean ...... 45 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 46 Readers’ Forum ...... 48 What’s On My Mind ...... 49 Calendar of Events .....50 Caribbean Market Place ...... Classified Ads 54 ...... 54 Advertisers’ Index ISSN 1605 - 1998 near you! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole DEPARTMENTS ...... 42 Will Gibson Will “I’ve really gotten pleasure from the since I’ve been cruising down here. Good sailing!” Narrow Escape covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, Distribution - Hubert J. Winston is published monthly by welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! noresponsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts and clarity.responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length this publication, except©2012 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Ltd. short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Compass Ad Sales & Distribution - Doyle Sails can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 8 Business Briefs Eco-News ...... 15 Regatta News...... 18 ...... 33 Meridian Passage ...... 37Time Capsule ...... 38 Caribbean Voyaging ...... Book Review 41 Sailor’s Horoscope Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass 175 BQ,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 457-3410 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Accounting...... Shellese Craigg [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: : Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] : Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 : Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected] nd the nd Newbie No More ...... 34 A cruiser’s learning curve Go West! ...... 30 Downwind BVI to Boquerón Click Google Map link below to fi driving for the in Cruising Class 1. Photo by Bob Grieser for Grenada Sailing Festival driving for the mark in Cruising Class 1. Photo by Bob ....28 Tanga Langa www.caribbeancompass.com MARCH 2012 • NUMBER 198 MARCH 2012 • NUMBER and Jaguar The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& Spectacular southern St. Lucia High There Record-Busting Round Barbados .16 Record-Busting Round Barbados Think Green ....26 Antigua’s Green Island, that is Smashing! On the cover, MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 aircraft andmarinevesselsalike,especiallyatnightorinlow-visibilityconditions. when aircraftareatlowaltitudesonfinalapproach.Thisposesaproblemtoboth final approachpath,particularlyofRunway13inCanouan,attheprecisemoment Union IslandandCanouan.Onnumerousoccasionsmarinevesselshavecrossedthe Grenadines toavoidtheareawithintwomilesofrunwayfinalapproachareasin &Updates Info The safetydepartmentatSVGAirstronglyurgesoperatorsofyachtsinthe Avoid Low-FlyingPlanes! —Continuedonnextpage and packedintheUSbyyachtcharteragentAnn-WallisWhiteofAnnapolis, books toBequia.Thenewandgood-conditionchildren’shadbeencollected and havesomegoodoldGrenadianfun. Bar Tour.Sostaytunedforthese,andmore,upcomingClubevents! Tour, aslightlydifferentandmorewater-relatedtwistonthepreviouslyheldBeach ing inthespring.Inaddition,plansareunderwayforaSouthCoastMarinaDinghy were sopopularthattheClubisplanningtohostanotherexcitingafternoonofrac- Anse BeachBarTour,andHobieCatMatchRaces.Infact,theraces by hostingfunsocialactivitiesforitsmembersandfriends. Calivigny Bayarea,andalsotodevelopfriendlycamaraderieClubawareness water-related activitiesbyorganizingsmallboatracesandothereventsinthe to offersailorsofallskilllevelsandagegroupsmoreopportunitiesparticipatein According toJeanieParr,whoiscurrentlyservingasCommodore,thePCYCplans boating enthusiaststosupportyachtingeventsandwatersportsinGrenada. Phare BleuMarinaontheisland’ssouthcoast,PCYCwasformedbyagroupof at [email protected]. ibility conditionsandwithpilotsunfamiliarthearea. final approachpath.Similartotheabove,additionalrisksariseinturbulentorlow-vis- the departmentalsourgesyoutoexercisecaution,asthisiscloserunway’s On February1st,LaureandDenisoftheyacht BIG BooksfromBoatstoBequia For [email protected]. The PCYCwillofferagreatopportunitytodobitofsailing,meetnewpeople, To date,successfulandfun-filledeventsorganizedbytheClubincludeaGrand New toGrenadaisthePetiteCalivignyYachtClub(PCYC).HeadquarteredatLe New YachtClubinGrenada For moreinformationcontactAssistantSafetyOfficerShanaJones To thoseengaginginparasailingactivitiessouthofRunway08Union(seephoto), Escapade broughtfourboxesof MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 . . The website now YamahaOutboards.com https://picasaweb.google.com/112362889456269132940 • Yamaha Marine Group has revamped Cruisers’ Site-ings has created a resident Hodge Taylor chandler and Bequia • Long-time yachtsman, St. Patrick’s Activities in Montserrat outside where St. Known as ‘The Emerald Isle’, Montserrat is the only country 9th to 19th and will be This year, St. Patrick’s Week will be celebrated from March colorful and comprehensive web album about Bequia. web album colorful and comprehensive Have a look at provides more product information and visual images. Festival provides a rich Patrick’s Day is a public holiday. The weeklong St Patrick’s Caribbean entertainment, mix of Irish and African heritage, with some traditional making this one of Montserrat’s most popular annual events. will include the Freedom Run held in the village of Salem. The activities for the week junior calypso competition. from Cudjoe Head to Salem Park, a nature hike and a with its unique reconstructed St Patrick’s Day itself (17th March) will be the highlight to play traditional Slave Village. Here, stalls sell traditional foods, locals gather dancers put on colourful games such as dominoes and marbles, and masquerade where local artisans will displays. New features for 2012 include a Montserrat Day Items will include art and showcase their products, all of which are locally made. Party and Goat Water craft items, foods, among other things and a Lunchtime Competition not to be missed. page —Continued on next began last November. for information in this report. driven by Captain Chance Strickland. As Steadfast Antigua Observer and the was shot and killed while resisting a robbery attempt in English was shot and killed while resisting program, which utilizes large yachts to bring needed goods to worthy program, which utilizes large yachts to bring needed Perseus Dockwalk (YAG) Continued from previous page Continued from YAG was conceived by Captain Mark Drewelow, who has tag-lined this initiative YAG was conceived by Captain Mark Drewelow, who For more information visit www.yachtaidglobal.org. ‘Changing the World Without Changing Course’ for Jamaica in the YachtAid Errol Flynn Marina is the designated receiving agency Thanks to Maryland in association with Books for International Goodwill (www.big-books.org). Goodwill (www.big-books.org). with Books for International Maryland in association received by the BIG project was gladly donation from the ongoing This most recent so we our boat (an Alden 52 monohull) wish we had more room on Laure said, “I Ann-Wallis at [email protected]. For more information contact in Antigua Yacht Captain‘s Killer Sentenced Captain Drew Gollan of the 163-foot Perini Just over three years after Australian Gollan’s girlfriend, Alena Sitkova, reported to the Australian press that they had Gollan’s girlfriend, Alena Sitkova, 22nd, 2009 incident, more than a hundred concerned The day after the January trial Lindsey was arrested a week after the incident and his part of the procedure, the marina representative makes all arrangements to clear part of the procedure, the marina representative makes the donations with the appropriate ministries and Customs. with “Changing the World Without Changing Course”. beneficiaries in various countries. When the marina learns of a large yacht coming beneficiaries in various countries. When the marina learns if they can bring any to Jamaica from the USA, the yacht is contacted to inquire numerous boxes of donated goods. In January, the first shipment arrived carrying Parish. In the same ship- educational materials for the Long Road School in Portland donated to the government ment a variety of medical equipment was brought and goods were carried free of clinics in Buff Bay, Port Antonio and Manchioneel. The change by 120-foot motor yacht Global Ann-Wallis then contacted passage-making yachts willing to carry boxes of books yachts willing to carry boxes contacted passage-making Ann-Wallis then to various islands of the Caribbean. from the States Tree restaurant by Cheryl Johnson at the Fig Reading Club, hosted Bequia Children’s Transport was Farm Government School. by Miss Friday of the Paget in Belmont, and of Challenger Taxi. courtesy of Sandra Ollivierre through the kind boats — she would try to get more more books!” She said could have carried — to help bring books to the islands next year. including roomy Navi ketch — 24-year-old Sylvester Lindsey of Potters, Antigua, was Harbour in Antigua, his killer, to 22 years in prison. sentenced in early February with their 21-month-old daughter when they were been walking home from dinner gun, attempting to rob them. Gollan reportedly swung accosted by a man with a robber, who then shot Gollan in the chest. with his backpack at the would-be community and visiting yacht captains and crew members of the local business the government and police were doing to provide convened to find out what Minister canceled Parliament to attend, accom- security in the area. The Prime of Police, the Assistant Commissioner of Police, the panied by the Commissioner Minister of Justice. The police commissioner said that Minister of Tourism and the would immediately be placed in the area, with more police with more visibility In addition, they introduced “stop and search” longer-term policies to come. in the area, specifically procedures, targeting people who have no business known criminals. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 a completefileofemergencyinformation. duty-free fuelinFrenchPolynesia,anddiscountsoncheck-in/check-out.Italsogives participants. RegisteringentitlesyoutogetBondExemption(fornon-EUcitizens)and presentation, slideshow,snacksanddrinks,manyraffleprizesfreegiftsfor also sponsoredby This isafreepartyforallcruisersheadingtotheSouthPacificthisseason.The phone Sallyat(784)457-3409.Welookforwardtoseeingyouthere. who helpsmakethe Brunch isabsolutelyfree—it’sourwayofsayingaspecialthank-youtoeveryone Bequia EasterRegatta,soyoucanstayonforawholeweekendoffun.TheWriters’ brunch, notlunch! will behostingthethirdAnnualPacificPuddleJumpPartyonMarch10that11:00 the traditionalrumpunchcocktails. colour —andbothGuinness‘Green’Heinekenareavailableinbarsalongside itors willnoticemanylocalswearingnationaldress—inwhichgreenisthedominant and receiveashamrock-shapedstampintheirpassports.DuringStPatrick’sDay,vis- tory isstillevidenttodayfromthemomentvisitorsarriveatairportinMontserrat a havenforIrishCatholicswhowerepersecutedonotherCaribbeanislands.Thishis- — ever-popular Mac’sPizzeriainBequia.Pleasearriveat10:00 Compass Writers’Brunch.IttakesplaceonthemorningofThursday,April5that 12 months,youarecordiallyinvitedtobringaguestandjoinusatthisyear’s Honoring Sign upatwww.pacificpuddlejump.comtoregister. Space [email protected] The annualCompassWriters’Brunchisheldjustatthebeginningof The BalboaYachtClub,atthePacificentrancetoPanamaCanalinPanama, If YoureallyMustLeave… For moreinformationvisitwww.visitmontserrat.com. Montserrat’s Irishheritagedatesbacktothe17thcenturywhenislandbecame If you’vehadanarticle,photoorpoempublishedinthe FEBRUARY 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Continued frompreviouspage Compass Latitude 38

Contributors Compass magazineandTahitiTourism.Therewillbeavideo special! Compass AM —remember,it’s duringthepast AM . Golden HindChandleryofTortola,allintheMarketPlacesection,pages50through53. Supercenter ofDominica,onpage44;plusBlueBayrestaurantand USA, onpage23;PerformancePaintsofSt.Lucia,25;andWhitchurch not free. February issue.Thisphotocreditmysteriouslydidnotappearintheon-lineversion. enthusiasts whomighthavebeendisappointed! “DRIVING (notDiving)AroundMontserrat”.ApologiestoFrank—andanyscuba Tomorrow” onpage26oflastmonth’sissue Barbecue andAugust3rdfortheauction. heading towardagrandtotalof$200,000! families. And,ofcourse,coldhardcashisalwayswelcome!Inits11thyear,CCEF annual auction.Clean,usedclothingforallagesaccepteddistributiontoneedy tions ofboatgearandhouseholditemsattheCarriacouYachtClubforCCEF‘s assisted withuniformsatallschools! Government Schools!AndhundredsofCarriacouandPetiteMartiniquechildren Three computerlabsupandrunningatDover,HarveyValeMt.Pleasant College! And15,200hotlunchesprovidedtoHarveyValeGovernmentSchool! [email protected]. be interestedtoseeinterpretationsofhowitfeelsrace,sailoranchor!” However, shouldyouwishtofocusonatheme,organizerLauraFletchersays,“I’d Grenada MarinekidsandFriends—thisincludesanysailingfolkswishingtojoinin! exhibition fromMay19thtoJune3rd.TheisopenGrenadaMarinestaff, trumpeter HughMasekela. winner LionelRichie,five-timeGrammywinningartisteZiggyMarley,andAfrican off thePigeonIslandvenue.Thisyear’sperformingactswillincludemultipleGrammy Take amooringinthelagoonorslipmarinaatRodneyBay,anchorright Good tohaveyouwithus! In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! Lumbadive‘s “LionfishDerby”announcedinlastmonth‘sEco-NewscostsUS$10;it‘s James Uliktookthefinephotosillustrating“Grenada’sBoxingDayJam”in The secondpartoftheheadlineFrankPearce’sarticle“Yesterdayand Department ofCorrections For [email protected]. Save thesedatesandbeinCarriacouonAugust1stfortheWelcomePotluck Sound likeaworthwhileeffort?Youcanhelptheseprojectscontinue:leavedona- Nineteen studentsfundedfortuitionandbooksatTAMarryshowCommunity Carriacou Children’sEducationFund For moreinformation,registrationformsandthefewrulesthatdoapply,contact As it’stheexhibition’sfirstyearthereisn’tatheme:justwhateverinspiresyou. The GalleyatGrenadaMarine,St.David’sHarbour,willbehostingitsfirstart Calling AllSailingArtists! For moreinformationvisitwww.stluciajazz.org. The legendarySt.LuciaJazzFestivalwillrunfromApril30thtoMay13ththisyear. Don’t MissSt.LuciaJazz Compass we welcome new advertisers Aero-Tec Laboratories of the wewelcomenewadvertisersAero-TecLaboratoriesofthe Compass shouldhavebeen MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7

MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 ONNE VAN DER WAL DER VAN ONNE (556-foot) electric-orangesemi-submersibleship Compass and charterboatstoprimecruisingdestinationsaroundtheworld.Asthisissueof —Continuedonnextpage marine industryinmanycountries. Captain W.KenClarkasMarinaManager.hasmanyyearsofexperiencein the taking theplunge. and crewsshouldfinditrewardingtocheckoutthenewkidsonblockbefore minutes awayfromtheRodneyBayMarina,drydock,andVigieCove,boatowners paints ofthehighestqualityatcompetitiveprices.Withtheirpremisesbeingonly and architectsfromanywhereintheworld. the needsofinteriorandexteriordesigners,paintingcontractors,propertymanagers only companiesthatcansupplyanytypeofcoatingneededforavehiclebody. leading supplierofautomotive,industrialandarchitecturalfinishes.PPGisonethe method ofapplicationandusetheirpaints.TheyarebackedbyPPGIndustries,a tion fortheirstate-of-the-artproductline,butalsothetrainingtheyofferin Martinique, ItalyandNewport,RhodeIsland. area representativesaroundtheglobe,DYThasadditionaloperatingofficesin safe andeasyaccesstomanyoftheworld’spremiercruisinggrounds.Alongwith and sailingyachtstovariousdestinationsaroundtheglobe,offeringboatowners the PacificWestCoastandSouthPacific. the Caribbean(St.ThomasandMartinique),USEastCoast,Mediterranean, spring 2013. Brisbane, andAuckland,returntoPortEvergladestheMediterraneanin Palma deMallorcainNovember,withstopsMartinique,FortLauderdale,Golfito, to FortLauderdalebeforeheadingToulon,FranceinearlyApril. arriving inBrisbane.FromBrisbane,itwillheadtoAuckland,NewZealandandreturn have madestopsinMartinique,FortLauderdale,andGolfito,CostaRicabefore power andbeofftonewadventures. yacht, captains,ownersand/orcrewswillbefreetodisembarkundertheirown water intoitsballasttanks.Afterscubadiversremovesea-fastenersfromeach Servant 4 BUSINESS BRIEFS Dockwise YachtTransportoperatesonaregularscheduletodeliverprivateyachts Want ahassle-freewaytogetyourboatfromtheCaribbeanAustralia? Dockwise GetsYourBoatThere Marina SantaMartaofColombiaispleasedtoannouncetheappointment Ken ClarkNewManageratIGYMarinaSantaMarta For moreinformationseeadonpage25. Now, PerformancePaintsareofferingboatersarangeofanti-foulingandtopside PPG’s rangeofresidential,commercialandindustrialpaintsaredesignedtomeet Performance PaintsatCorinthHighway,GrosIsletarenotonlyenjoyingareputa- Performance ofSt.LuciaOffersYachtPaints For moreinformationseeadonpage11. Since itsmaidenvoyagein1987,thecompanyhastransportedover11,000motor DYT’s globalyachttransportroutesforitssemi-submersiblesincludeselectportsin DYT’s second“float-on/float-off”voyagetotheSouthPacificthisyearwillbeginin Super Servant4 Looking somethinglikeagiantmovingmarinawhenitcomestotown,the goestopress,Brisbane,AustraliaplanswelcomeDYT’s169.49-meter — oncedockedwillsubmergeitselfbypumpingninemilliongallonsof departed PalmadeMallorca,SpaininDecember2011andwill Super Servant4.

Super MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9

VERSOL and . Any suitable petit pains , for many years; he has been , for many years; M/V Tropic Isle Sailors’ Guide to the Windward Islands Sailors’ Guide to the Windward Islands Continued from previous page Continued from He has cruised in his own vessel, He has cruised to Marina Santa Marta was not an easy one, how- Ken says, “The decision to come brand, IGY, behind us enables us to “Having the backing of a world-renowned IGY destination, wishes the very best, and asks for your The Marina Santa Marta, an Santa Marta see ad on page 27. For more information on Marina in Bequia Gourmet Food Shop Re-Opening European and Asian Food, the Swedish Gourmet Food, The supplier of high-quality in the café overlooking In addition you are welcome to enjoy a breakfast or lunch You find Gourmet Food’s Bequia branch in Ocar, a two-minute walk from Port You find Gourmet Food’s Bequia branch in Ocar, a two-minute [email protected] orders from the Bequia branch call (784) 458-3485 or office and shop in If you are on mainland St. Vincent, pay a visit to the head Free deliveries to private villas and yachts for ample orders! For more information see ad on page 44. Updating Waterland will certainly be a welcome additional “rainforest destination” to the For more information contact Hilde van Ekdom, Marina & Resort Waterland, Chris Doyle’s cruising guides are well known for having the most thorough and up- Chris Doyle’s cruising guides are well known for having in November of even-num- New editions of Doyle’s Windwards guide are published Chris is currently updating his New Yacht Harbor in Suriname Marina & Resort Waterland is a luxurious marina for the cruising sailor, on a unique Located outside the hurricane belt between and French Guiana, For more information see ad on page 41. St. Maarten’s Brian Deher Made Certified Marina Manager of Marina Operations and IGY Marinas announces that Brian Deher, the Director Jones, Executive Vice The full team of CMMs at IGY Marinas now includes Kenny For more information on IGY marinas visit www.igymarinas.com. For more information on the designation of Certified Marina Manager visit mari- trained by the top schools in both Captaining and Marina Management, and was a and Marina Management, top schools in both Captaining trained by the USA. His base lubricant company in the multi-state fuel, gasoline, and co-owner of a specializes in , and he comes from Fort Lauderdale, of marina knowledge largest in the directly with over 65 of the having worked mega- and super-yachts, helping to create a world-renowned worked in Panama City, world. He recently in the world. by the most famous boats marina frequented mega- and super-yacht as a manager, a he has experience Santa Marta a unique quality; He brings Marina Marta, as see similar success in Santa a boatowner. IGY hopes to captain, and a modernization of the facilities, the influx of tourism Panama City benefited from: per year, benefiting the entire city. dollars in terms of multi millions the friendliness of the citizens, the opportunity to ben- ever, the quality of the facility, I the entire region and country presented a challenge efit not only the marina but at many of the most famous marinas in the world could not refuse. I have stayed the desire to compete at that level. and believe the owners have nearly every vessel owner in the area and make Santa exceed the expectations of I am committed to seeing this project succeed, every- Marta a global destination. Marta will benefit by the work we do now.” one in the marina and Santa help as well. its has on request from many customers re-opened based in Calliaqua, St. Vincent, and its friendly staff invite customers to shop Bequia branch. The new management canned food from around the world in the supermar- top-quality chilled, frozen and bread, seafood, US beef ket. Gourmet Food offers a selection of frozen pre-baked pasta, cheeses, of the highest quality, sausages, vegetables, berries, fresh-frozen Foods, such as olives, olive juices, drinks and sweets. All the bestsellers from Fontana pasta and Arborio rice from oils and juices, are back. There will also be a variety of the world famous De Cecco. Admiralty Bay. The menu offers fresh salads, Swedish baguettes, — freshly baked croissants. These can be accompanied by a cup of coffee or tea, a freshly baked croissants. These can be accompanied fruits of St. Vincent. cold soda or juice, or a smoothie made from the fresh Sailors Café. Elizabeth, downstairs Coco’s Place restaurant and opposite Orders can be placed Calliaqua, close to Barefoot, TMM, Tradewinds and Sunsail. on (784) 456 2983 or [email protected]. southeastern Caribbean sailing area. (+597) 491561, [email protected]. to-date onshore information. Sketch charts are at the heart of Doyle’s guides, heart of Doyle’s guides, to-date onshore information. Sketch charts are at the including aerial photos of which are also noted for lots of great color photographs, most anchorages. years. bered years and the Leewards guide in odd-numbered location the Suriname River. Suriname is rich in culture, history and nature. The country has large, navigable rivers and is popular for doing some amazing exploring in the interior. businesses that wish to be included that now are not, or any cruisers with information businesses that wish to be included that now are not, they wish to impart, please e-mail [email protected]. of Certified Marina Planning for IGY St. Maarten, has been awarded the designation the IGY Marina Manager, bringing the total to four CMMs that comprise of the St. Maarten Management Team. Brian also serves as the current president a family of marina owners and Marine Trades Association in addition to coming from operators in the Caribbean. Rodney Bay Marina, St. President, IGY Operations; Adam Foster, General Manager, St. Thomas; and Brian Lucia; Kevin Lussier, General Manager, Yacht Haven Grande, and Simpson Bay Marina, Deher, General Manager, The Yacht Club at Isle de Sol St. Maarten. naassociation.org/certifications/cmm. Suriname is popular for exploring the unique interior by river MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 *)+3 from St.LuciatoGrenada.Whenitcametime Islands not properlyorganized,crossed,dottedandfiled. razor blades.Nothinghappenedinthestorethatwas active, butalsoassharponeofthosesword-edged relaxed, Ciarlamoreoutgoing,effervescentandever sense ofhumor.Jacqueswasquieterandmore of theyachtchartercommunity.Bothhadagreat if withaslightaccent.Theysoonbecamegoodfriends speakers, Ciarlaspokeourlanguage,asdidJacques, Diffusion” alittlestrange.BestofallforusEnglish- ing event,evenifwefoundthename“Accastillage yachties, theadventofanewchandlerywasanexcit- next toasweetshop,andopenedin1987.Forus Here theymanagedtorentaspacewithstreetfrontage ping mallonrueErnestDeprogeinFort-de-. knew thatM.Cottrellhadjustopenedakindofshop- of theirpartnerswasclosetoarealestateagentwho dlery onthedrydock.Theywereblocked.Luckilyone ants stronglyobjectedtotheopeningofaretailchan- they hittheirfirstmajorproblem.Oneoftheotherten- franchise organization.Everythingwassettogowhen distributor forAccastillageDiffusion,abigFrench chandlery atthebigdrydock.Theystartedoffasa ness andtheoriginalarrangementwastoopen count storecalledPucesNautiques. Ship Shop,aswellasmallersecondhandanddis- chandlery inMartinique,alsoFort-de-France,called was theplace.Thereatthattimeonlyonelarge chandlery somewhereandtheyrealizedFort-de-France They hadtalkedtogetheraboutmaybeopeninga after athirteen-and-a-halfdaycrossingandtiedup. boats couldbefixedandboatgearrepaired. services justaroundthecorneronQuayOuest,where atmosphere, busybutfun.Therewereplentyofyacht he recognizedashavingbeenstolen).Itwasapleasant became knownas“007”whenheapprehendedaboat an eyeoneverything.(Suchasharpeye,helater Monsieur LeBreton,theCustomsofficer,wouldkeep to bedeliveredyachtsthathadclearedout. with manydozensofcasesduty-freeboozeandwine the bar.EachafternoonVatiertruckwouldarrive could fillyouryacht’stankswithwateranddrinkin center ofactivitywastheAbri-Cotierdockwhereyou It wasusualtosee50100yachtsinthebayand Fort-de-France wasthemainplacetodoturnarounds. more skipperedcharterboats,oftenowner-run,and the Caribbeanastherearenow,butweremany together andarrivedinMartinique. ing boat.Theydelivered running Bardyn, aprofessionalskipperwhowasatthetime glitz oftheRiviera,shemetavidsailorJacques Mediterranean tolearnsail.InMonaco,amidthe ing andadventuring.Aspartofthisshewenttothe I publishedmyfirst They neededpartnerstohelpthemstartthebusi- Getting Started Jacques andCiarlasaileduptotheAbri-Cotierdock Back inthosedaystherewerenotasmanyyachts Abri-Cotier Days in1980,butthefirstfeweditionscoveredjust Stormy , abeautifulcold-moldedplywoodrac- Sailors’ GuidetotheWindward Stormy Canadian, wastravel- English-speaking Ciarla Decker,an in themid-1980s acrosstheAtlantic well as French, found himself in demand to arrange well asFrench,foundhimselfindemandtoarrange Jacques, becauseheknewboatsandspokeEnglishas six differentcountriesandSeaServiceswasborn. They weresoondealingwith60differentsuppliersin ended thatarrangementandstartedsourcingfreely. to filltheneedsofyachtingcommunitysothey their stockintootherbrands.Thisclearlywasnotgoing sively forAccastillageDiffusionandcouldnotexpand Diffusion wasonewheretheyweredistributingexclu- finances wentthroughtheirstore. legal andsointhebeginning,allguide’sMartinique found awaytomakemytransactionsinMartinique chandlery mightnormallybeexpectedtodo,butthey Helping acruisingguideauthorisnotsomething Ciarla’s storeandlaidtheproblemintheirhands. So Jean-NoelandIwalkedovertoJacques give legalreceipts,whichinthosedayswasaproblem. was nohelpwithlegalstuff—howtotakechecksand me todealwiththeadvertisers,butbeingacruiserhe cruising friend,Jean-Noel,agreedtocomeandhelp even moreexcruciatingthanitistoday.AFrench expand intoMartinique,Ineededhelp.MyFrenchwas Jacques and Ciarla’s agreement with Accastillage Jacques andCiarla’sagreementwithAccastillage Expansion

,->-47816/A)+0<16/ by ChrisDoyle 165):<1619=- ,-,1+)<-,<7 —Continuedonnextpage to adisusedwoodmillinBaiedesTourelles. Ouest asaferryterminal,relegatingtheyachtservices terminal thanyachtservicesandrequisitionedQuai later, theofficialssawmoremeritinideaofaferry giant cruiseshipdockintheearly’90s.Alittlewhile part oftheyachtanchoringareawasgivenovertoa The valueofyachtingwasnotappreciated,andalarge International Paintsandassociatedapplicationgear. So in1998GlobalMarinewasborn,adistributorfor application ofthepaint,whichwasoftenguaranteed. ships wherehecouldoverseethepropertechnical liters. Jacqueslikedthechallengeofworkingwith small, butalsotoshipsthatbuybythousandsof fouling paintnotonlytoyachts,wherequantitiesare a separatecompanythatcouldsupplythebestanti- swaging machine,whichisstillworkingtoday. and Ciarlatookoutaloantobuyreliablemechanical like riggingandsawtheneedforarigger,soin1990he and becametheirmainsupplier.Healsohappenedto provisions andotherthingsforincomingcruiseships, Over theyearsFort-de-Franceitselfstartedtochange. Yachts’ MigrationtoMarin As asupplierofpaint,Jacquessawtheneedtoform is experiencingagradualrenaissance The oncebusyanchorageatFort-de-France MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 SAVE ON ON SAVE • LIGHT MAINTENANCE LIGHT MAINTENANCE • PORT EVERGLADES PORT IDEAL FOR YACHT OWNERS WITH OWNERS WITH IDEAL FOR YACHT • PALMA DE MALLORCA PALMA 1 888 SHIP DYT • ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY—CUTS ON ON FRIENDLY—CUTS ENVIRONMENTALLY • E-mail: [email protected] LESS WEAR AND TEAR ON YACHT LESS WEAR AND TEAR ON YACHT • NEWPORT NEWPORT • MAINTAIN RESALE VALUE RESALE VALUE MAINTAIN • RELIABLE SET SCHEDULES Renovations in Fort-de-France Renovations 2002 things in Fort-de-France Starting around Happily, in the last couple of years the town renova- Another Transformation However, for Jacques and Ciarla it is also a chance As I write this, Jacques and Ciarla, Olivier (my cur- • TOULON visiting the Marin store. But while Yves would give store. But while Yves visiting the Marin customers advice on what to buy, them the correct to make sure up to Fort-de-France would often come making the of this decision before Jacques approved keeping the the end it was not worth purchase. In open. Marin branch was started for . A new plan became very poor The first- renovate the waterfront. to comprehensively to the ferries. These werestage priority was given by the fort to a big newmoved from the small dock located right where thecombined ferry and bus station were given an anchoringyachts used to anchor. Yachts was actually a big improve- area under the fort, which a dinghy dock we were givenment in some ways, but for with its small shelter,the old pilot station dock, which, for homeless druggies. Ibecame a favorite hangout going out to dinner withremember several times after the dinghy was likeJacques and Ciarla that reclaiming dispensing small change.running a gauntlet while problems and worked tire- Ciarla was well aware of the get yachting reintegratedlessly behind the scenes to plus side, Sea Services nowinto Fort-de-France. On the and had become thehoused the Customs computer On the minus side,place to clear in at Fort-de-France. Ponton du Bakoua for thelarge swells destroyed the Anse Mitan was no longerfinal time, which meant that Bay. For a fewdrawing yachts into Fort-de-France I would see feweryears when I visited Fort-de-France than half a dozen yachts at anchor. Sea Services con- tinued to thrive on local clients, added to which some of their overseas clients who now tied up in Marin would rent a car and drive up to visit the shop. tions were finally finished. The new waterfront has a magnificent long dinghy dock with a charming play- ground behind. Last year I occasionally saw up to 20 yachts in the bay. This year there have been more than 30 each time I have visited. Added to this is the arrival of a transatlantic fleet of Spanish yachts racing in the Gran Prix del Atlantico race, neatly tied up in a special place created for them on the west of the harbor. Yachting is returning to Fort-de-France. to move on after 25 years of dedicated service, aided in recent years by Stephane Bougeant and Valerie Lagrue. They have handed over the helm of the Sea Services business to the new owner, Christophe Sirodot. Stephane and Valerie (who both speak English) will stay on. Christophe also speaks English, having worked in the US for some years. rent cruising guide representative in Martinique), and a friend, Anne, are on my boat. We have just returned from a pleasant daysail to celebrate the sale of their business. Ciarla takes a deep breath and exhales: “I am trying to learn to relax.” She may not have too much time to relax. There is now a new office way up at the top of the building above Sea Services. This is the home for the new business association of Fort-de- France, the Association des Professionnels Foyalais, known as “Cœur Foyal”. Ciarla spends a lot of time up there getting it organized. Olivier is the president. We can expect great things to come…. MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE PORT EVERGLADES PORT FREEPORT FREEPORT : Tel. +596 596 741 507 +596 596 : Tel. GIVE CREW A VACATION BREAK GIVE CREW A VACATION • ST. THOMAS ST. ST. THOMAS ST. ST. THOMAS ST. MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE UPCOMING 2012 CARIBBEAN SAILINGS : : : : DYT Martinique WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM WWW.YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM MARCH APRIL MAY JULY CARBON EMISSIONS CHARTER COMMITMENTS CHARTER ENGINE HOURS, MAINTENANCE, AND FUEL COSTS IS UNDERWAY POSSIBLE WHILE YACHT BENEFITS OF SHIPPING YOUR YACHT WITH DYT BENEFITS OF SHIPPING YOUR YACHT OFF ON, FLOAT SAFEST LOADING METHOD—FLOAT , tableware, linens and a wide selection and a wide selection , tableware, linens objets d’art Jacques and Ciarla opened a branch in Marin, and The original mall idea of M. Cottrell proved to be to be mall idea of M. Cottrell proved The original to succeed, it drew in As Marin Yacht Harbor began more and more of the marine businesses to the south more and more of the marine businesses to the south end of the island. The old days of the small owner-run charter yachts was diminishing and in their place were large fleets of bareboats, mainly based in Marin. The Baie de Tourelles did work out as a service center, but more for local boats than visitors. Puces Nautiques moved there and some new chandleries and a fuel dock opened; Sea Services remained as the only hold- out in downtown Fort-de-France. put in charge Yves Ligier, who had worked with them for some time and was technically excellent as well as being an exemplary salesman behind the counter. Their regular clients who had boats in Marin started to perfectly fit their need. to perfectly fit want to walk time. People did not yet ahead of its not work- and the other stores were down corridors, needed to well. Sea Services clearly ing out too and the 1996 took over the hallway expand and in thus built which had closed, and other two shops, half of the store. In 1998 Ciarla took one their present sold nauti- a new department, one that store to create cal sportswear including the of good nautical casual and St. James brand. Yacht at Rest, Mind at Ease Yacht Photo by Onne van der Wal Continued from previous page Continued from Fort-de-France, with its reduced yacht anchorage, One man, Franz Jean Joseph, did realize the value of Jean Joseph, did realize One man, Franz was no longer as active as it was after the Abri-Cotier was no longer as active as it was after the Abri-Cotier was torn down, but across the bay at Anse Mitan, the Ponton du Bakoua (originally run by Charlotte Honnart, then later by Philippe Merceron) filled the need for yachts to take on water and fuel, so there were still quite a few visitors. Despite this downturn, Sea Services survived and flourished. While the earlier clientele had been visiting yachts, they were now get- ting increasing numbers of local boaters, who relied on Jacques’ technical excellence to sell them the product one of the largest and most successful marinas in the Eastern Caribbean. It totally transformed Marin from a quiet backwater to a thriving yachting center, with hun- dreds of support services, stores and restaurants. yachting and saw the need for a big marina with ser- saw the need for a big marina yachting and of the commu- he approached authorities vices. In 1993 asking for Trois Ilets and Marin, nities of Fort-de-France, Désiré, the put a marina. Only Rodolphe somewhere to and welcomed saw virtue in this plan mayor of Marin, was thus thatothers turned him down. It the idea. The of Martinique, the new yachting center Marin became Franz himself not happen overnight. though this did but his sons Eric anddied before it all came to pass, — and way beyond theGlen carried his idea through the Marin Yacht Harbour isoriginal conception. Today — Jacques Bardyn and Ciarla Decker have devoted a quarter of a century to building the yacht-services sector in Jacques Bardyn and Ciarla Decker have devoted a quarter Fort-de-France — and they’re not done yet! MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12

later, partsofitwashedashoreintheTobagoCays The October2011launchingattheGuianaSpaceCentreofaSoyuzrocket.Months we hadfound. left italone.Iimmediatelytelephonedthelocalauthoritiestoinformthemofwhat of ustriedtoturnitoverbutwesuddenlythoughtthepossibilityradiationand from theskyinshallowwaterandwashedashore,asobjectwasheavy.The12 part ofaRussianspacecraft.AllthemarkingsonitwereRussian.Webelievefell had notbeenthere. beach. IhadescortedatourgrouptoPetitTabacjusttwodaysearlierandthisobject Sparrow wasmaroonedin“PiratesoftheCaribbean:TheCurseBlackPearl”. has beenapopularstopsincebeingusedasthefilmlocationwhereCaptainJack island ofPetitTabacintheTobagoCayswitha12-memberFrenchgroup. Grenadines. OnthemorningofDecember6th,2011,OceanPanicToursvisited on theauthoritiestopleasemakeitanofficial tourismsite. tourism interestasthesiteofthisspacecraft wreckage.OceanPanicToursiscalling through itsinvolvementinthePiratesof the Caribbeanmovies,willnowhavedouble guard hadleftbehind.Weareproposing thatthearea,whichisalreadywellknown it wasblockingthebeachandsecured initsnewhomeutilizingaropethecoast Vincent &theGrenadines—hauled,pushed andpulledthespacecraftfromwhere different countries—France,Switzerland, Belgium,Poland,,andSt. ested inspacescience. GPS system. new Europeansatellite-basedgeo-positioningsystemthatwillcoexistwiththeUSA’s rocket outsideRussia.ThiswascarryingthefirsttwoGalileosatellitesfor a French GuianaonOctober21st,2011.ThiswasthefirsttimeRussialaunched a Embassy inBarbados.ItispartofaRussianSoyuzrocketthatwaslaunchedfrom the formofaspeedboatperhaps)andtakenthem. when wefoundthewreckage,suddenlydisappearedasthoughalienshadcome (in few daysonthebeach,communicationantennaandcamera,whichwerethere era lensfullyintactandacommunicationantennastillattached.However,after a ‘Lands’ inTobagoCays Upon closerinspectionIrealizedthiswasnotpartofaplane—itappearedtobe Upon arrivingwesawwhatappearedtobesomesortofanaircraftfuselageonthe I amawatertaxioperatorandtourguideworkingoperatingaroundthe For [email protected]. On January10th,34dayssincediscovery, Iandatotalof24personsfromsix Petit Tabacisnowgeneratingmajorbuzzasatouristattractionforpersonsinter- Since then,thedebrishasbeenidentifiedwithassistanceofUnitedStates Further inspectionofthepartsshowedfreshbreakage,althoughtherewasacam- INSET PHOTOS: DWIGHT PARSONS Russian Rocket

by DwightParsons THILO KRANZ/DLR - UNIVERSE TODAY UNIVERSE - KRANZ/DLR THILO

MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 on on until until when AM AM took part See related

Tres Hombres Tres Hombres Tres Hombres Tres Hombres , not only saving on their carbon footprint, but also was open for visits on February 8th from 10.00 stay at the St. Maarten Yacht Club dock, her captain, Jorne stay at the St. Maarten Yacht Club dock, her captain, ]

Tres Hombres include Curaçao, the Dominican Republic, Grenada, New York, the lays claim to being the only purely wind-driven cargo ship engaged lays claim to being the only Tres Hombres

Moving Cargo Cargo Moving Tres Hombres’ . Approximately 140 children from seven local schools toured the ship. . Approximately 140 children from seven local schools PM

Setting a ‘Goods’ Example: Example: a ‘Goods’ Setting Under Sail Alone Under Tres Hombres The Maritime School of the West Indies teamed up with the Yacht the Sint Maarten Yacht The Maritime School of the West Indies teamed up with Apart from being an ambassador for sustainability and the concept of ‘fair trans- Apart from being an ambassador for sustainability and Built during World War Two, the 32-metre (90-foot) ship was rebuilt and rigged as Built during World War Two, the 32-metre (90-foot) ship Assisted by several dinghies, the vessel came through the Simpson Bay Bridge on Assisted by several dinghies, the vessel came through Tres Hombres During Previous ports of call have included Brixham, Brest, Porto, Madeira and Cabo Previous ports of call have included Brixham, Brest, After leaving St. Maarten on February 13th bound for , future destinations For more information visit www.svtreshombres.com. the evening hours for all members of the club, invited guests and the local press. The the evening hours for all members of the club, invited guests students from 9:00 next day, the vessel was open for visits from young Top: Students from the St. Maarten Academy pose on the St. Maarten Yacht Club dock. Behind, youngsters from the Montessori School board Above: SMYC’s manager, Petra, flanked by Paul (left) and Jorne (right) of Tres Hombres Club to host two “Maritime Experience Days” on board Club to host two “Maritime Experience Days” on port’, the vessel is being used as a school ship. Trainees on board gain experience port’, the vessel is being used as a school ship. Trainees nationalities are currently in traditional sailing and seamanship. Students of five being trained. a brigantine and has now been in cargo service since December 2009, maintaining a brigantine and has now been in cargo service since the Caribbean and North a freight service between , the Atlantic islands, accommodation for five crew- America. She has a cargo capacity of 35 tons, plus by the Atlantis Merchant members and ten trainees. The engineless ship is operated that “in present times of Sailing Company in the , with the rationale is a demand for ‘green’ ship- environmental pressure and fluctuating oil prices, there economical point of view.” ping due to ecological reasons, but also simply from an February the 7th and moored alongside the Sint Maarten Yacht Club dock until February the 7th and moored alongside the Sint Maarten February 10th. February 8th and 9th. The event was co-sponsored by the Caribbean Sail by the Caribbean Sail February 8th and 9th. The event was co-sponsored Training Association. in international trade today. 17:00 recent , making landfall in Barbados, Verde, where the ship gathered local goods such as olive oil and wines. After its most Verde, where the ship gathered local goods such as olive Langelaan, gave an onboard presentation about fair transport and the future of Langelaan, gave an onboard presentation about fair global trading using modern hybrid sailing cargo ships. for Azores, England and Belgium. Mott Green of the award-winning Grenada Chocolate Company plans to load his inaugural zero-carbon-footprint shipment of locally grown organic chocolate bound for the US and Europe aboard in the Round Barbados Race — a race with a history of cargo schooners. [ story on page 16. the ship is in Grenada. Other regional companies and individuals are invited to ship their cargo with helping to market their products by being a good example. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 is now available from the Seabird Breeding Atlas of the is now available. , surveying by land and/or sea 200 islands capable , surveying by land and/or sea 200 islands capable Lista Light Martinique - Le Marin Marina

. The atlas reveals that four of the 18 species recorded are present at . The atlas reveals that four of the 18 species recorded

Seabird Breeding Atlas of the Lesser Antilles Seabird Breeding Atlas of the Lesser Antilles Seabird Breeding Atlas of the Meanwhile in Bequia, a solar-powered reverse osmosis plant at the village of Paget osmosis plant at the Bequia, a solar-powered reverse Meanwhile in Program is pilot Carbon Neutral Tourism sorts of initiatives that the These are the For more information visit www.unisdr.org/archive/24813. of the Lesser Antilles New: Seabird Breeding Atlas The seabird colonies and colonies thought to be Finding previously undocumented 2010, EPIC’s partners Over an 11-month study done between 2009 and have been pushed out “The reason for such remote nesting sites is that seabirds The For more information visit www.epicislands.org. Farm is purifying seawater and converting it into drinking water via a project that it into drinking water via seawater and converting Farm is purifying it reduces the power] replaces fossil fuel; as multi-beneficial. “[Solar Leslie describes community with fuels; and it provides the exchange to import demand for foreign health issues,” he explains. also helps in addressing fresh water which at the Bynoe, Senior Resource Economist according to Mark designed to foster, region into a effort “to make the Caribbean the programme is an CCCCC. He says fuels to more to convert from fossil destination — getting people carbon neutral feel we can make the one area in which we The tourism sector is renewable energy. a change.” within Environmental extirpated are just some of the exciting discoveries reported Protection in the Caribbean’s (EPIC) ground-breaking Lesser Antilles significant within the globally significant levels, with a further 11 species considered Battowia, in the St. Vincent Caribbean region. It also reports that the island of the most important individual Grenadines, followed by Dog Island off Anguilla, are islands for globally significant seabird colonies. aboard their 75-year-old Katharine and David Lowrie sailed 3,162 nautical miles wooden sailing boat, winter breeding season and of supporting seabirds, surveying each island in the sailors will venture near, again during the summer. Visiting islands that few other survey of the worst anchor- the study was dubbed by the sailing community as “a ages of the Caribbean.” Being mostly ground-nesting, from their previous breeding grounds by development. predators such as cats and they also have no defences against voracious introduced rats,” Katharine Lowrie explains. CreateSpace online store at https://www.createspace.com/3565696 as well as from CreateSpace online store at https://www.createspace.com/3565696 Amazon.com, where a Kindle version will soon be available. Long may they . A recently published atlas is the result of an 11-month study of Long may they fly. A recently published atlas is the result seabirds’ breeding sites in the island chain Caribbean Eco-News Executive Director of the Caribbean Community Climate Change Centre (CCCCC), Executive Director of the Caribbean Community Climate Two Caribbean Efforts to be ‘Carbon Neutral’ Two Caribbean Efforts to of the Caribbean Community (CARICOM) are facing The 20 million inhabitants After Sale Service Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 8033 [email protected] www.caraibe-marine.fr Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 8033 [email protected] NEW NAME FOR CARAIBE GREEMENT • MORE SERVICES NEW NAME FOR CARAIBE GREEMENT • MORE SERVICES At this resort in the dry southeastern part of St. Lucia, processed ‘gray’ water is At this resort in the dry southeastern part of St. Lucia, made available used for irrigation and a new surplus of clean water is to the local community Kenrick Leslie says that the Vieux Fort Project in St. Lucia is “The first private- Kenrick Leslie says that the Vieux Fort Project in St. issue of climate change”. The public sector project [in the Caribbean] to address the drought. Tourism requires a southern part of St. Lucia is continually threatened by can contaminate groundwater lot of water, while effluent from the big hotel chains states that a hotel chain sources and destroy vital coastal marine resources. Leslie Facility project, to reduce and the CCCCC were able, through a Global Environment The latter was then made the amount of water needed by the hotel by 25 percent. is treated, and as a available to the community. “More importantly, the wastewater to irrigate the golf courses and result, the ‘gray’ water, after being processed, is used to put a policy in place that lawns.” The project enabled the Government of St. Lucia wastewater. Similar sys- now requires all hotels to harvest rainwater and process Caribbean, the Bahamas tems are being considered for replication in the Eastern and Belize. dependent on tourism and agriculture. According to a report by David Singh for the dependent on tourism and agriculture. According to a Secretariat, two islands United Nations International Strategy for Disaster Reduction to climate change in Small in the Windward chain are on the frontlines of adaptation Island Developing States. increased vulnerability to climate change. Stronger storms and hurricanes as well as change. Stronger storms and hurricanes as well increased vulnerability to climate limited resources, including water, on islands floods and droughts are challenging MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 [email protected] www.sunsail.com Tel: 17844584308 Fax: 1784 4568928 PO Box 133, BlueLagoon, St. Vincent, West Indies Sunsail

the Schoonerrecords,setbyFarr40 before 10:00 utes ofeachother.However,thelastboatin— East CoasttoRaggedPointandthefirsteightboatsfinishdidsowithin25min- of thesmallerboatsheldtheirpositionsaheadpackrightwayalong manned byBarbadosCruisingClubvolunteers. tors inandoutoftheinnerbasin.ARegattaVillageIndependenceSquarewas the event.Forfirsttime,ChamberlainBridgewasopenedtoallowcompeti- Authority, theorganizersopeneduphistoricheartofBridgetowntoyachtsfor Absolute Monohullprize. Barbados. Thateffortwasrewardedasthecreweventualwinnerof Pugh visiting BarbadosaspartofherCaribbeanadventure.Oneyacht,the78-footReichel based J/24s 35 feet,plusschoonersandmultihulls—the28entriesrangedfromlocally The BarbadosTourismAuthority. 21st andhostedbyBarbadosCruisingClubinassociationwithMountGayRum pers wontheirweightinExtraOldMountGayRum.TheeventwasheldonJanuary Caption Class 10, — butyoumayhearotherssayingitwasrough!” normal windandseaconditions,whichprobablysuitedmyboatbetterthansome youngest crewmember(hisfour-year-oldson).Johnsonsays,“Itwasalittleabove 53-foot Beneteau, minutes 27seconds—wassetbylocalbusinessmanRalphJohnsonsailinghis approximately 60miles. record inatimeoffivehours,threeminutesand34secondsforthedistance respectively lastyear,remained. 35 FootandUnderclasswiththenewSingle-HandedmarkinhisJ/24, seconds intheMonohull40FootandUnderclass. the Double-Handedrecord,stoppingclockateighthours,19minutesand25 House restaurantonJanuary22nd. in fourhours,24minutesand27secondstosetanewAbsoluteMultihullrecord. Bullet Hoad completedthecourseonhisowninninehours,49minutesand58seconds. The worktheracecommitteeputintostaggeringstarttimespaidoff,asmany With thecooperationofNationalConservationCommissionandPort Divided intosixclasses—formonohullsunder80,60,40and Six recordsfellinthisyear’sMountGayRumRoundBarbadosRace,andsixskip- David StaplesandthecrewofCustomDubois40 Johnson’s brotherPaulsetthenew35FeetandUnderrecordinhisBeneteauFirst A newfastesttimearoundtheislandforboats60FeetandUnder—sixhours16 Idea Peter “Wipers”HoadreceivedspecialacclaimforhisnewrecordintheMonohull For moreinformationvisitwww.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com. Thanks totheBarbadosCruisingClubandPeterGilkesforinformationinthisreport. The MountGayRumRoundBarbadosRacewillbebackonJanuary21st,2013. The topsailorswerehonouredinalavishawardsceremonyheldattheBeach The overallwinnerandstillfastestvesselintheracewaslastyear’svictor, Record-Busting Barbados Race . CaptainedbyBryanPalmer,theRoberts30-footSupercatcompletedrace Idea , skipperedbyBritishcaptainTonyMcBride,setthenewAbsoluteMonohull Bruggadung , arrivedjustthedaybeforeevent,havingsailedfromItalydirectlyto PM Jabulani . Whentheresultswerein,onlyexisting40FootandUnder Rapajam. Rapajam Marine and , withatimeofsixhours,52minutesand27seconds. Round Jump Up Centre

, to alsoboastedtheoldestskipper(Johnson)and Tres Hombres Katanga andthe180-footschooner Tres Hombres

Come rediscover themagicofSaint Vincent… , a105-foottradingbrigantine Immigrant …your onestopmarine centre intheGrenadines —finishedshortly setanewtimefor Jabulani Elena Silver * * * * * Fuel Dock A/C Power 110/220 Free WiFi Mini Market Marina Full Service

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BIM speed record new RoundBarbados rum. the silver—and Bullet Top andcenter:The touch toaneventbegun 76 yearsagobysailing Right: Lastinbutnot least, added anauthentic Silver Bullet boystookhome Tres Hombres cargo vessels seta * * * * * Beach Bar Sail Loft/Canvas Dive Centre Car Rental Showers

Shop * * * * Mooring Balls Laundry Book Exchange “Green Flash”Bar MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 .com came from Trinidad to Slippery , Elan 37, Anne O’Sullivan, UK , Henderson 35, Paul Solomon, Trinidad & Tobago 2012 Winners , J/122, James Dobbs, Antigua & Barbuda , 46-foot , Robert Mills, Barbados , J/24, Robbie Yearwood, Grenada , Reichel Pugh 37, Peter Peake, Trinidad & Tobago , Swan 43, Dieter Huppenkothen, Austria , Frers 43, Peter Morris, Trinidad & Tobago , Jeanneau 51, Scott Watson, , Albin Straus 36, Jason Fletcher, Grenada , 10-metre , Chris Long, Grenada Grenada Sailing Festival Grenada Sailing Festival Lost Horizon Slippery BlackBerry Enzyme Jaguar Boxxer Diamonds Are Forever Die Hard Rasmus Apero Rush My Mistress Racing (7 boats) 1) 2) 3) Cruising 1 (8 boats) 1) 2) 3) Cruising 2 (8 boats) 1) 2) 3) (1 boat) 1) Charter (1 boat) 1) For full results visit www.yachtscoring.com. take second place in the class The seven-boat Racing Class was all about action. The seven-boat Racing Class

BOB GRIESER (3) , finished trium- GRENADA SAILING FESTIVAL 2012 SAILING FESTIVAL GRENADA Die Hard competed against boats up Die Hard Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies sailed a nearly perfect series to win the overall title

Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

Die Hard

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Compass Local ‘Giant Killer’ Killer’ ‘Giant Local

BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS

Grabs the Big Prize Grabs the Since 1984 Since

For more information visit www.grenadasailingfestival.com. Grenadian yachtsman Robbie Yearwood in his J/24, Grenadian yachtsman Robbie Yearwood in his J/24, the local work boats head- This year’s sailing action in Grenada continued with The smallest boat in this year’s Grenada Sailing Festival 25-boat yacht-racing fleet The smallest boat in this year’s Grenada Sailing Festival races will take place from The milestone 20th Grenada Sailing Festival’s yacht The cumulative results were also announced for the final positions after the four The cumulative results were also announced for the Robbie’s prize — a jeroboam of Moet & Chandon champagne, the North South Robbie’s prize — a jeroboam of Moet & Chandon champagne, The Camper & Nicholsons Yacht Racing Series included different courses in St. The Camper & Nicholsons Yacht Racing Series included Visiting yachts from countries including the UK, USA, Canada, Austria, Italy, Visiting yachts from countries including the UK, USA,

[email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]

The Grenada-based J/24 ing for Grand Anse Beach on February 4th and 5th, with the traditional Grenada with the traditional Grenada ing for Grand Anse Beach on February 4th and 5th, Sailing Festival Scotiabank Work Boat Regatta. We’ll have a report in next month’s slew “giants” to take the prize of Overall Winner of the 2012 Festival, raced January slew “giants” to take the prize of Overall Winner of the 27th through 31st. January 25th to 29th, 2013. days of racing in each class with the overall class winners receiving a magnum of days of racing in each class with the overall class winners Sailing Festival trophy champagne courtesy of North South Wines, a unique Grenada Chivas Regal. Past Overall designed by Rene Froehlich and a bottle of 18-Year-Old as did 2011’s Overall Winner, Winner Jamie Dobbs retained his title in Racing Class, Peter Morris, in Cruising 1. Wines Moet & Chandon Trophy, two British Airways return tickets to London, a Wines Moet & Chandon Trophy, two British Airways Chivas Regal — was presented bottle of Mount Gay 1703 and a bottle of 18-Year-Old at the final night’s Gala Party by the Honourable Peter David, Minister of Tourism, thanked all participating staged at The Victory Bar, Port Louis Marina. The Minister significant contribution they yachtsmen for coming to Grenada, and emphasized the and yachting sector is a vital make to the island. He went on to say that the marine Sailing Festival are important part of the economy and events such as the Grenada experience the racing waters in encouraging more skippers and crews to visit and and marina facilities Grenada offers. George’s Harbour and off the island’s south coast, including the Mount Gay Race George’s Harbour and off the island’s south coast, including Race, and both the True Blue Series on the Saturday, the Sunday’s SOL EC Series on the Monday. The Bay Resort Pursuit Race and the Budget Marine Race Port Louis Race Series event closed on the Tuesday with the Camper & Nicholsons with courses off Grand Anse Beach. France and Ireland were joined by regular Festival competitors from Trinidad, France and Ireland were joined by regular Festival local Grenadian racers. The Antigua and Barbados, and a strong contingent of 2, Charter and Multihull. yachts raced in five classes: Racing, Cruising 1, Cruising phant after four days of fiercely competitive yacht racing. Robbie and his crew phant after four days of fiercely competitive yacht Festival’s seven-race series — notched up six first places and one second over the just one point short of a perfect result. Robbie’s J/24s entered this year to 43 feet long in Cruising Class 2, as there were insufficient to make up the one-design class that he won last year. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 and NickMoore,whofinishedtheracein40days,ninehours15minutes,nar- race start,andcannottakeanyrepair,helporfoodwaterduringthecrossing. organizers ofthisrace,whichwasfirstrunin1997.Allboatsareequippedatthe teams startedonDecember4th,2011,withAndrewbeingthesolesoloentry. sponsored AtlanticChallenge,billedastheworld’stoughestrowingrace.Seventeen nine hoursand44minutesina19-foot(5.7-metre)boatduringtheTaliskerWhisky- record since2004.Andrewrowed2,936milesfromTenerifetoBarbadosin40days, Atlantic crossingbyrowingboat.EmmanuelCoindrefromFrancehadheldthis As AndrewapproachedBarbados,justaheadofhimwererowingduoTobyIles More peoplehavebeeninspacethanrowedacrosstheAtlantic,say A 26-year-oldEnglishman,AndrewBrown,broketherecordforfastestsolo Atlantic SoloRowingRecordBroken REGATTA NEWS —Continuedonnextpage weekend ofDecember16ththrough18th,2011. Council, the21steditionofthisannualtraditionalboatracetookplaceover turned 21!OrganizedbytheSt.Lucia/MartiniqueAssociationandGrosIsletTown the crewwaspickedupbycargoship overturned onJanuary30th,520milesfromBarbados.Althoughthe days of100-plusmilesrowedbyoceanrowingboat”. “fastest crossingoftheAtlanticeasttowest”byrowingboatand“12consecutive skippered Sara G trials thatbeganinApril2011.In2010,Mattskipperedthesix-personcrewaboard history tobreakthesub-30daybarrier:oceanrowing’sversionoffour-minutemile. toBarbadosonJanuary3rdinanattemptbecomethefirstrowingcrew January 26thafter50daysatsea. while onactiveservice.Theteamofsixex-servicemenrowedintoPortSt.Charles include theBritishsoldiersof qualified aftercallingforhelp,althoughtheyinsistedonfinishingthecourse.They ever seeninaraceofthiskind,”saidSimonChalk,thesafetyofficerforevent. rowly failingtotaketherecordforfastestpair.“Thisisclosestfinishwehave Christy Recaiireports:Aracebornoutofthecompetitivespiritfishermenhas Martinique GommiersRaceinSt.Lucia Unfortunately, 27daysintotheirjourneythisyear,the36-foot(11.1-metre)vessel A rowingteamincludingskipperMattCraughwellwasselectedfromnineroundsof Meanwhile, AtlanticOdysseylaunchedarowingboatcrossingofthefrom Of the17boatsthatstarted,onlyeightstayedincontention.Threecrewsweredis- fromMoroccotoBarbadosin57days,20hours.Inthe2011expedition,he Sara G acrosstheAtlanticin33days,21hours,winningtwoworldrecords: Row2 Recovery Nord Taipei team,fourofwhomhadlostlimbs . Sara G waslost, MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

RAQUEL TORRES ARZOLA

BEQUIA SAILING CLUB St. Maarten’s Ilian Halbertsma sailing in the Advanced Fleet 2012 3-Race Challenge TH Friendship Bay Races Admiralty/Southside Race Big Boat Challenge Challenge Challenges J/24 Races INSURANCE Admiralty Bay Triangle Races - 9 Round the Island Race D E T I N Heineken TH First Citizens Heineken First Citizens UUNITED Heineken First Citizens MOUNT GAY Heineken Tel: (784) 457-3649 e-mail: [email protected] (784) 457-3649 e-mail: Tel: Notice of Race & Yacht Pre-registration: www.begos.com/easterregatta www.begos.com/easterregatta Pre-registration: Yacht Notice of Race & Racing took place in San Juan Bay for eight classes of boats. New this year was the Racing took place in San Juan Bay for eight classes of sailors from six islands After three days and as many as 16 races in some classes, Fleet where only one point Competition was closest in the beginner Optimist Green & Fishing Club’s (PYFC) In the Advanced Optimist fleet, Puerto Rico’s Ponce Yacht Bumper Club Náutico de San Juan Regatta! Bumper Club — Puerto from 12 islands and countries reports: A record 100 sailors Carol Bareuther addition of the 420 Class. The Advanced Optimist Class was the largest of the regat- addition of the 420 Class. The Advanced Optimist Class Puerto Rico’s sailors as this ta with 31 sailors. Competition was especially intense for to represent the island at event was a qualifier to see who would make the team Aires, Argentina this month. the Optimist South American Championships in Buenos and countries took home trophies. end, Caroline Teare, who sails separated the first- through third-place finishers. In the out of the St. Thomas Yacht Club, won. performance has Andre Reguero handily won with a ten-point lead. Andre’s compete later this year at the secured him a spot on Puerto Rico’s national team to American Championships Optimist South American Championships, Optimist North and Optimist World Championships. —Continued on next page Rico, the Dominican Republic, all three US Virgin Islands, the British Virgin Islands, Virgin Islands, the British Virgin Republic, all three US Rico, the Dominican set sail on and the United States — Curaçao, Guatemala Anguilla, St. Maarten, (CNSJIR). San Juan International Regatta the 11th Club Náutico de February 3rd in in the of the largest youth regattas makes the CNSJIR one This participation especially in on the global sailing map, continues to put Puerto Rico Caribbean. It time in the Americas the International Club hosting for the first the wake of the last November. (ISAF) Annual Conference Sailing Federation’s • Single-Handed YACHT RACES • Racing, ‘Surprise’ One-Design Class, Cruising I & II Classes Fri 6th April: Sat 7th April: Mon 9th April: Around Bequia Race • J/24 One Design Class Fri 6th April: Sat 7th April: Mon 9th April: LOCAL DOUBLE-ENDER RACES Friday 6th April:

Sat/Sun 7/8th April: FAMILY FUN • Sandcastle Competition - Friendship Beach • Crazy Craft Race - Friendship Bay Mon 9th April: The APRIL 5 ) that the boats are ) that the boats The Come Back, Pilot , in a bid to become the young- Bursera simaruba Guppy in first, second and third respectively. Pa Mo Souef respectively. The return leg to Martinique was won by respectively. The return leg and Fredome passed through the specially opened bridge into Simpson Bay Bay passed through the specially opened bridge into Simpson and Guppy Continued from previous page Continued from Until the 1950s, gommier canoes were a mainstay in Martinique for fishing and mainstay in Martinique for fishing gommier canoes were a Until the 1950s, ( refers to the gum tree The name gommier Close to a dozen racing canoes, each carrying 14 crewmembers, annually each carrying 14 crewmembers, annually Close to a dozen racing canoes, from a tourism perspective. Not only in terms of the “It’s very important to St. Lucia race from Martinique to St. Lucia was something of a Because of light winds, the Teen Completes in St. Maarten Teen Completes Circumnavigation in St. Maarten on January Laura Dekker, the 16-year-old Dutch solo sailor, arrived Since the annual gommier race takes place during the annual arrival of the Since the annual gommier Islands, , , Bora Her journey included stops in Panama, the Galápagos Guinness World Records and the World Sailing Speed Record Council did not verify Guinness World Records and the World Sailing Speed Record transporting goods. It was while returning from fishing that crew often challenged from fishing that crew often It was while returning transporting goods. first sailing canoe races. race, resulting in the island’s each other to — made of; this is the oldest boatbuilding material in the Caribbean. The gommier, in the Caribbean. The is the oldest boatbuilding material made of; this in St. Lucia long and rich history particularly the trunk of the tree, has a dug out from used [in the Caribs and the Arawaks “These are the boats which and Martinique. a to another, so they have times] to jump from one island pre-Columbian PRO of the St. Lucia/Martinique Daniel Charmon, Caribbean connection,” Association explains. and converge on Gros Islet’s waterfront in St. Lucia leave St. Luce, Martinique of between the town of St. Luce and the town for the event. There is a twinning Gros Islet. more importantly the number of friends and family who number of participants, but 180 people, is significant,” says Louis Lewis, Director come across, averaging about there were no participants from St. Lucia this last of Tourism in St. Lucia. Although were built in St. Lucia. race, a number of the vessels arrived in St Lucia unaided. The Saturday’s race non-event and only three gommiers three places were won by saw six entries and the top Chaben’an 21st to complete her circumnavigation. Laura left St. Maarten on January 20, 2011 21st to complete her circumnavigation. Laura left St. Maarten aboard her 38-foot Jeanneau Ginfizz ketch, Come Back, Fredome the St. Lucia Tourist Board is looking into marrying Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), more awareness. the two events in future to promote refused to allow Dekker est solo circumnavigator. Courts in the Netherlands originally put under the guardian- to embark on the voyage when she was 14, and she was she was too young to look ship of Dutch protection agencies on the grounds that in 2010. after herself at sea. She won her battle with the courts on December 11th, Bora and . Laura left , miles to St. Maarten where 2011, for a final non-stop leg of nearly 6,000 nautical and blasting boat she was welcomed by thousands of cheering spectators horns as lagoon and tied up at the St. Maarten Yacht Club dock. The St. Maarten Yacht dock. The St. Maarten Yacht lagoon and tied up at the St. Maarten Yacht Club Hotel and Tourism Club, the St Maarten Marine Trades Association, the together to celebrate Association and the St. Maarten Tourism Board all worked Laura’s return. no longer recognize Laura as the youngest solo circumnavigator, saying they Laura wrote in her records for youngest sailors to discourage dangerous attempts. — I did it just for myself.” blog, “I did not start on my trip to achieve any record MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 Netherlands. SwartzwillsailhisfamouslyfastIRC52, winners ofClass1and2:JimSwartztheUSAWillemWesterThe Thomas andnearbySt.John. and one-designracingoncoursesshowcasingthebreathtakingcoastlinesofSt. event, whichbeginsMarch23rd,andmixesisland-stylefunwithhard-coreIRC,CSA events. Severalhotnewboatsandfirst-timersaresignedupforthisyear’sthree-day ta inRolex’syachtingportfolioandoneofthemostvenerableCaribbeanspring visit www.stcroixyc.com/regatta. already workingtowardredevelopingtheeventin2013. Hovensa oilrefineryontheisland.TheClub’sregattaorganizingcommitteeis ened forbothclubmembershipandregattasponsorsbytherecentclosureof factors affectingthisdecisionwasthecurrenteconomicclimate,whichwors- Regatta, scheduledforMarch9ththrough11th,hasbeencancelled.Amongthe www.nauticodesanjuan.com. the CNSJIR. (BRISA) Sur,successfullydefendedhisSunfishClasstitle. Agustina BarbutofromSt.Johnwonwithnineoutoftenfirst-placefinishes. Guillermo Flaquer. spot, toppedLaserStandardsbytwopointsovertheDominicanRepublic’s Massachusetts InstituteofTechnologytocampaignfora2012SummerOlympic an impressive19-pointlead. place scorestowintheLaser4.7Class. cays ofPillsburySound. day’s “Soundrace”,testingone’sdeterminationoncomplexcoursesaroundthe sending competitorsshort-tackingthelengthofSt.John’ssouthshore;andfinal everyone’s focus;thesecondday’s“islandrace”,testingnavigationalnerveby day’s “harborraces”fromtheclubtoCharlotteAmalieHarborandback,testing a varietyofcoursesideallyconfiguredtotestsailor’sskills.Includedarethefirst make andname. Wester hastradedupfromhisGrandSoleil43, that includespastAmerica’sCuphelmsmanandtacticianGavinBrady,while — IRC competitionwillremainstrongthisyearwiththereturnoflastyear’srespective St. ThomasYachtClub’s39thannualInternationalRolexRegattaistheoldestregat- Strong IRCRacingPromisedforRolex For [email protected] The StCroixYachtClubhasannouncedthatthe2012International St. CroixRegatta2012Cancelled Full resultsareavailableatwww.regattanetwork.com.Formoreinformationvisit The PuertoRicoTourismCompanyandJetBlueAirwaysareofficialsponsorsof Finally, PYFC’sFraitoLugotoppedtheIC-24Class. Puerto Rico’sElvinAponte,sailingfortheBoRinquenIslandsSailingAssociation In theClub420Class,USVirginIslands’NikkiBarnesfromSt.Thomasand Puerto Rico’sDavidAlfonso,whoistakingasemesterofffromstudiesatthe Club NáuticodeSanJuan’sJuanCarlosPerdomowontheLaserRadialClasswith The BVI’sMolleeDonovanfinishedtheregattawithanearlyflawlessstringoffirst- International RolexRegattahasastellarreputationforracemanagement,offering Continued frompreviouspage Antilope, Vesper, toa46-footerofthesame withaseasonedcrew —Continuedonnextpage of theworld’sfinestsailingvenues. backgrounds tocomealongbetweenApril2ndand7thforaweekofracingatone (784) [email protected]. the islands. dren’s sailingschoolintheirOptimists. of thisexcitingandpopularsport,therewillbeinformalracesputonbythechil- the weekendoffun-filledactivities. Yacht Clubbeach.Music,deliciouslocalfood,drinksandanauctionwillroundout Mayreau areinvitedtoparticipateinthetwo-dayevent,heldatAnchorage has alonghistoryinUnionIsland,oftenheldduringtheEasterfestivities. and Sunday,April1st.Aneventforthetraditionallocalsailingdinghies,regatta victor willwinthegenerousprizeofaweek’scharterfromIYCCpartnerSunsail. International YachtClubChallenge(IYCC).Racinginone-designSunsailyachts,the shapes andsizes.ThisyeartheBVISpringRegattawillhostthirdeditionof day afterracing,theregattavillagewillbepartycentralwithexcitingeventsofall regatta, wherethemajorityoffleetwillbemooredinNannyCayMarina.Each Nanny Cay,willprovidesomehigh-octaneactionandsightseeing. competitive racingontightwindwardleewardcourses,rightoffthebeachof ranking eventhasattractedaninternationalfieldofeightteams.Twodayshighly by theChicagoMatchRacingCentrecoordinatorMaryAnneWard.Theworld- Cay Marina. winner awardedtheNannyCayCupthateveningatprizegivingheld Sailing FestivalconcludeswithareturnracethroughtheislandstoTortola, Yacht ClubinVirginGorda,whichhoststhreedaysoffunonandoffthewater.The The racingactionstartswiththeBitterEndCup,apassageraceto design circle.Aone-designclasscanbeestablishedwithaminimumofsixboats. The thirdLesVoilesdeSaint-Barthisinvitingyachtsmen,skippersandsailorsfromall Join theGrowingLesVoilesdeSaint-Barth For moreinformationcontactHeatherGrantoftheUnionIslandSailingClubat Spend agreatweekendinUnionIsland,whilesupportingtraditionalsailingskills In addition,thenewlyformedJTProCentreKitesurfSchoolwillofferdemonstrations Sailing clubsfromtheneighboringislandsofCarriacou,PetiteMartiniqueand This year,theregattawillbeheldoneweekbeforeEaster. Union IslandintheGrenadinesisholdingasailingregattaonSaturday,March31st Union IslandRegatta,March31standApril1st For moreinformationortoenteronlinevisitwww.bvispringregatta.org. Three daysofracingandlegendarypartiesarescheduledforthe41steditionthis Third, theBVISpringRegatta,March29ththroughApril1st. During raceweek,theISAFGrade3matchracingeventwilltakeplace,assisted Second, theGILLBVIInternationalMatchRacingChampionship,March28thand29th. The SailingFestivalkicksoffwithawelcomepartyatNannyCayMarina,Tortola. First, theSailingFestival,March26ththrough29th. Fun ThreeWaysatBVISpringRegatta&SailingFestival For moreinformationvisitwww.rolexcupregatta.com. Or fortestingone’smettle,thereareupto18windward/leewardracesontheone- MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

Eilean has returned to the has a composite hull (1934). will be playing an important part in a series of events to cele- will be playing an important part in a series of events Eilean Eilean was discovered in a very dilapi- Eilean Eilean , “little island” in Gaelic, was built by , “little island” in Gaelic, was , the 1936 Bermudian ketch splendidly Stormy Weather In Antigua, US, Australia and the Many other magnificent classic yachts from Europe, the For more information visit www.antiguaclassics.com. With a Tuesday-through-Saturday schedule that includes four days of intense rac- that includes four days of schedule With a Tuesday-through-Saturday on page 18. For more information see ad Eilean for Antigua Classic Regatta Eilean Eilean In 2006, made of Burmese teak planking on galvanized iron ribs, floor plates, beams and rein- made of Burmese teak planking on galvanized iron ribs, during her renovations. forcements. Almost all of her original hull planking was saved work. brate her return to the island after the extensive restoration participate in what is Caribbean islands have also indicated their intention to in the Western Atlantic. expected to be the most magnificent classic regatta —Continued on next page tem. Her win that very year in the transatlantic race from west to east led to the race from west to east very year in the transatlantic tem. Her win that such the legend- yawls and ketches, generations of fast and elegant emergence of ary opening cere- Monday, April 2nd, with de Saint-Barth will kick off on ing, Les Voiles de Gaulle Village on the Quai General at the festive Race monies and cocktails lay day has event is headquartered. One Harbor, where the overlooking Gustavia collectivity of to discover this quaint little for competitors and friends been reserved a surprise sport- that include lunch and planned at Nikki Beach France, with events as well as post- include off-site parties for all crews. Evening activities ing challenge in the Race Village. racing bands and entertainment restored by Officine Panerai, will be returning torestored by Officine Panerai, yachting sea- the Caribbean for the 2012 classic she left Antiguason. More than five years after on her last legs, was a key playerCaribbean island where she she will be partici- for almost 30 years. This time, Yacht Regattapating in the Antigua Classic the first stage of2012, April 19th through 24th, 2012. the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge Fife III design in the Fife shipyard to a William year. 1936 and splashed the following crossings, and has has completed 36 Atlantic Europe and sailed back and forth between career. In 1982, Antigua for most of her long she was used as the floating set for ’s video for their hit song “Rio”. dated condition by luxury Italian watchmaker Officine Panerai. The company immediately purchased her and moved her by cargo ship to Viareggio and the Francesco Del Carlo yard. There she remained for over three years during which time she was completely and meticu- lously restored. Highland . Idea was considered to Dorade and the Swan 112 Sojana , designed by Olin Stephens, and built by Dorade and the introduction of the IRC 52 class this year, Les Voiles de Saint-Barth is this year, Les Voiles de Saint-Barth of the IRC 52 class and the introduction will have to face the likes of the 78-foot Reichel Pugh designed Continued from previous page Continued from The big, spectacular Maxis, including the Farr 115 The event, set up by François Tolède, Luc Poupon and the Saint-Barth Yacht Club, Poupon and the Saint-Barth up by François Tolède, Luc The event, set for the of entrants, the 70 boats registered Gustavia limits the number As berthing in The elite IRC 52 one-design class will be adding even more colour to the racing at The elite IRC 52 one-design class will be adding even more of their numbers: 18 The boats in the Spinnaker division will stand out because between J/120s, Grand Racing non-spinnaker is also very popular, with battles magnificent setting of The elegant classic yachts are clearly well suited to the be the first yacht of the modern age with her straight lines and ingenious ballast sys- be the first yacht of the modern age with her straight lines shows signs of healthy growth, offering all those who enjoy fine racing an increas- those who enjoy fine racing healthy growth, offering all shows signs of the racing programme nicely splicing line-up and a well-planned ingly competitive such as of legendary classic yachts together. With participation and festivities Dorade proving popular. percent more fleet complete. “With 30 make the six-class 2012 edition practically much tighter making the racing that we can have more classes, entries than 2011, manager Annalisa Gee. in each,” explains competition — Breeze Les Voiles de Saint-Barth. feet. boats registered so far, measuring between 35 and 65 is swelling with the arrival of Soleils, Firsts, Elans, Kiwis and X Yachts. The multihull fleet new cruiser racing catamarans and . in 2012, a newcomer to Saint-Barth and each year the line-up tends to grow with, the event — the yawl the Minneford Yard in New York. From her launch in 1931, MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 Yacht Club’syouthsailingprogrammehasspawnedsomehugelysuccessfulsailors Sailing Academy(NSA)astheofficialcharityforAntiguaWeek2012. involved “onthewater”.ItwasthereforeanobviouschoicetoselectNational team isshiftingthefocussothatpeoplecanseeopportunitiesexisttoget entertainment, andwhilethisisaveryimportantpartofanysailingregatta,the2012 in theyachtingindustry.” in gettingAntiguansandBarbudans,whocurrentlyaren’t,butwanttobe,involved May 4th,whatliesatthecoreofourobjectivesistoassistinwhateverwaywecan yachtsmen whoattendAntiguaSailingWeek2012,runningfromApril29ththrough from creatingafantasticexperiencebothonandoffthewaterforparticipating of thestrategy.Headshoresideorganization,AlisonSly-Adams,comments,“Aside the obvious,butforAntiguaSailingWeek2012’sorganizers,it’sanessentialpart

In previousyearsmuchofAntiguaSailingWeek’sfocuslocallyhasbeenonthe The motto“WhereSailingComesFirst”mayappeartomanypeoplebestating Antigua SailingWeek’sOfficialCharity,NSA EILEAN 150 children sailing lessonsto currently gives Sailing Academy The National a recognizedsport. Barbuda, sailingis In Antigua& Sparkman &Stephensyawl yachts raceacrosstheAtlanticfromportofDouarneneztoSt.Barts.Theclassic 2nd, 2012,tosailBarbados.ThefirstTransatClassique,in2008,saw24classic For moreinformationaboutAntiguaSailingWeekvisitwww.sailingweek.com. tribute tomakingthathappen.” all visitingyachtsmen.WeatAntiguaSailingWeekaredelightedtobeablecon- Antigua SailingWeekinyearstocome,withasignificantincreasecompetitionfor Academy willbemoreAntiguansandBarbudansoutonthewaterinvolvedin Committee for2012states,“ClearlytheresultofgrowthinNationalSailing in reachingitsgoals.KathyLammers,ChairmanoftheRegattaOrganizing ers andequipment. there isasignificantneedforanincreaseinfundingtoassistwithpaymentofteach- needed tooperatetheschool.Withtwotraininglocationsgetoffground, pers topayUS$1perfootoftheirboatlengthyear,aswelldonateboats of thisgeneratedbytheNSAteamwalkingdocksandencouragingvisitingskip- 500 childrenaweeklearningtosail.” more easilyofferlessonstoallschoolsacrossAntigua.Ourultimategoalishave ed atJollyHarbourMarinaandthesecondinParham.Thiswaywewillbeableto establish twosatellitelocationsfortheNationalSailingAcademy.Onewillbelocat- we can’tofferallschoolstheservice.Itisforthatreasonareworkingto reached capacityattheAntiguaYachtClub,andincreasinglyitisfrustratingthat and theNationalSailingAcademycoverscostoflessons. schools, transporttobothswimmingandsailinglessonsisprovidedbyschoolbuses, As swimmingandsailingarenowpartoftheNationalCurriculuminallAntiguan so thosewhoneedtolearnaretaughtbySwalingsInternationalSwimmingSchool. children perweekhowtosail.Allintheprogrammemustbeableswim, learn tosail. ing outsideofEnglishHarbourorthosewhocannotswim,tohavetheopportunity Organizing Committee.However,ithasuntilrecentlyremaineddifficultforyouthsliv- executive oftheNationalSailingAcademyandisamemberRegatta has longbeenattheheadofAntiguaYachtClub’sYouthSailingProgram,ison Week’s RegattaOrganizingCommittee.KarlJames,Antigua’sformerOlympicsailor, such asAshleyRhodes,ownerofA&ARiggingandamemberAntiguaSailing crossing toBarbados. Cascais, theAtlanticandMediterraneanfleetswillsetoutonmainevent— natural startingpointforanalternativewarm-upruntoCascais.Afterconvergingon yachts. AsavenuefortheregattasTheNioulargueandLesVoiles,Saint-Tropezis port ofSaint-Tropez,wellknownasarendezvousfortheworld’smostprestigious seaboard legfromDouarneneztoCascais,astartingtheMediterranean The TransatClassique2012isscheduledtodepartCascais,PortugalonDecember Transat Classique2012:DestinationBarbados For moreinformationabouttheacademyvisitwww.nationalsailingacademy.org. Antigua SailingWeekisdelightedtobeableassisttheNationalAcademy Funding oftheprogrammeisentirelythroughdonationsandfundraisers,withmuch Elizabeth Jordan,PresidentoftheNationalSailingAcademysays,“Wehavenow The NationalSailingAcademyisanon-profitorganization,andnowteaching150 For moreinformationvisitwww.transatclassique.com. As thisissueof The TransatClassiquewillenteranewphasein2012with,additiontotheAtlantic Compass goestopress,35entrieshavealreadybeenconfirmed. Stiren tookthetrophyandalegendwasborn. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 Rémi started coaching Team Martinique in 1991 the Wave and Freestyle boards, which were devel- the Wave and Freestyle boards, Scott McKercheroped by his fellow World Champion Taty Franz of Bonaire.and World Vice-Champion all the Beginner, FreeRémi developed virtually and Race boardsRide, Slalom, Formula, Hybrid as Bjorn Dunderbeckused by such big names Champion titles, plus(iSonic), holder of 41 World Cyril Moussilmani, Ben Van Der Steen, Steve Allen and Sarah Quitta Offringa. with great results for Aloha Class competitors Sébastien Dormoy, Cyril Dumont, Sandrine Edel and Yannick Artigny and the Mistral Class’s Clément Dumont. In 2002, he launched the Formula Experience class, which quickly became a leading class, with 50 racers in such a small island as Martinique setting a record to date. This is a class that has done much for young windsurfers, and anyone whothat has done much for young windsurfers, and anyone wants to race affordably. Today it’s the biggest windsurfing asclass in South America. Top Martinique sailors such Wilson Cadignan, Julien Ventalon, Thomas Lequesne, YearVincent Domergue and Martinique’s Sportsperson of the get(2011), Morane Demont, with her multiple World titles, all

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In Stock! In Always Always ® Following on a brilliant career on his home island of Martinique, 20-time Martinique Champion on his home island of Martinique, 20-time Martinique Following on a brilliant career With a col- who is always smiling and joking, jovial and friendly. Rémi Vila is one of those guys on a Formula Experience and have a lot From the age of 12 to Super Masters, you can compete Masters’ title, proving once again hisLast December in , Rémi won the World Champion windsurfing advice and just has funWhenever Rémi is in Martinique he helps anyone who wants a new Hybrid generation board that This year Rémi has an exiting new youth project, making offering competitors the easiest access to“My greatest pleasure these days is the satisfaction of and four-time World Champion windsurfer Rémi Vila continues to make his mark in both design windsurfer Rémi Vila continues to make his mark and four-time World Champion and competition. (1991) he is always in search of new experiences. French Champion lection of titles behind him, developing new 1995, 2008 and 2012), he is equally absorbed by and World Champion (1993, range except He developed all the boards in the Starboard boards and improving his performance. their best results in this class. is rumored to be included in the 2020 of fun at an affordable price. While the Formula Experience into the Olympic Games, but more to offer Olympics, Rémi keeps a cool head. “Our goal isn’t to get the most fun possible,” he explains. the best boards to the greatest number of people with World Championships, he finished sixthtalent in a sport now dominated by youngsters. In the World Championships in Mexico his nextagainst younger competitors. After the Formula Experience month, the South American Championshipsevents will be the Pacifico Windsurf Regatta in Mexico this — he will not miss that one! in Brazil in October, and the Worlds in Peru in December not neglecting to present his latest iSonic. with friends on the water around this beautiful island, and will better suit European condi- delivers high performance in both light and strong winds events, first the Race-Board World tions. This board will compete this year in two major World Championship in R310 World Championship in Finland in June and then the R310 will be many chartered boards at these Championship in the Netherlands in August. There looks to be a perfect bridge to other events. “Starboard’s revolutionary 295 hybrid he says. established classes, for example between Bic and Rsx,” live windsurfing!”a means of getting the best possible performance. Long Top: Racing in Martinique Above: Rémi, at center, at the Formula Experience Worlds in Cancún, Mexico Left: Sailing one of his Starboard designs by Rodolf Etienne DESIGN Available in 7 Convenient Sizes Gasoline and Diesel Compatible 50, 100, 150, 200, 250, 300 & 500 Gal. Simply Unfold & Fill with Std. Nozzle

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> Space Saving Space NJ USA Ramsey, PROUDLY MADE IN [email protected] boatbladders.com +1-201-825-1400 cannot be matched. Marine Insurance My claims settlement record www.street-iolaire.com insurance. You never know how good The insurance business has changed. insurance, but there is no good cheap No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, your insurance is until you have a claim. There is good insurance, there is cheap “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” e-mail: [email protected] I have been connected with the marine insurance Martinique’s Rémi Vila: A World-Class Windsurfing Star Windsurfing A World-Class Vila: Rémi Martinique’s business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers in the Lloyds market. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 Dear regulations aswithfees,encouragedustotackletheissueagain. changing. Butthefollowingrecentcorrespondence,althoughitdealsasmuchwith a readerrecentlysuggestedwedoanupdate.Webalked,sincethingsarealways compared tothosewithahigh‘covercharge’.” A sharpeyewillnodoubtbekeptontheislandswithan‘opendoor’foryachts, increasing theoverallincomefrom‘yachtdollars’throughoutlocalcommunity. of theyachts,orwhethertoencouragemoreyachtsvisit(andstaylonger)thereby they willmakeiswhethertoseekthatincreasedcontributionthroughdirecttaxation sector tocontributetheirnations’economies,oneofthemostcriticaldecisions We wrotethen:“Asmoregovernmentsthroughouttheregionlooktoyachting the variousofficialfeesyachtskippersencounterwhencruisingLesserAntilles. in-and-out clearanceforsomeyearsnow.Whenthatpolicywasintroducedafew clearance anymore.IhavebeentoutingandrecommendingDominica’stwo-week author andtirelessadvocateforstreamlinedyachtingregulationsChrisDoyle,wrote: and leavingfromthesameportofentrywithin14days. if youwerejustleavingforafewhourstowhalewatchandreturnthesameport. that wouldbeconsidered“leavingport”andacruisingpermitrequired,even basically withintheprotectivewatersofstate,sotospeak.Anythingoutside required toclearout. to another.Finally,beforedepartingthesecondportofentry,youwouldalsobe and thenacoast-wiseorcruisingpermitwouldberequiredtoleaveoneportofentry to aforeignport,orviceversa,thenthevesselwillonlyreceiveaninwardclearance, cruise toPortsmouth(twoseparateportsofentry)andwilldepartfrom perfectly appliedinitsentirety.IfavesselisclearingintoRoseauandintendsto the sameportofentrytoaforeignport,then14daysin/outclearancewouldbe Signed… coupled withthein/outtwo-weekclearance.Nolongercase. “new procedures”arenotgoingtobecomenormalforDominica. same problem.I’mhopingthatthiswassomeformofmisunderstandingandthese procedures” inplace. days thatIaminRoseau,butagainnoexplanationotherthanthereare“new stand. IthenaskedabouttheEC$20cruisingpermitthatisonlygoodforthree ten visitshere,buttheagentcouldnotexplainittomeintermsthatIunder- go toCustomsinPortsmouth,clearin,andgetanewcruisingpermit. use togetPortsmouth.IwasthentoldthatonarrivalatPortsmouthwouldhave EC$20, whichtheagenttoldmewasgoodforthreedaysinRoseau,andthatIcould bound clearancelikewenormallygetonvisitingDominica.Thecruisingpermitcostme a cruisingpermit.Thein-boundclearanceformshowedtwo-weekvisitbutnoout- in Roseau,howlongwasIstayingPortsmouth,etcetera. same questionseachtime:howlongwasIstayinginDominica, we wouldspendtherestofourstay. be spendingthreedayshereinRoseauthenwouldcontinueontoPortsmouthwhere He askedifIwouldbegoinganywhereelseinDominicaandexplainedthat from Martinique. the CustomsagentwithmyeSeaClearformandoutboundclearance early afternoon.IproceededtotheferryterminalclearCustomsandpresented

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia This decisionisperhapsevenmorecrucialintoday’seconomythanitwas2002; In Februaryof2002wepublishedanarticleentitled“Fee,Fie,Fo,Fum”outlining “Virtually nocountryintheEasternCaribbeanrequiresyachtstogetacoastwise It did,atthatpoint.Butthen,havingbeeninvitedtotheconversation,cruisingguide “Hope thishelps.” “Basically, theautomaticin-and-outclearanceisonlyeffectiveifoneentering “Vessels thatareinRoseauorPortsmouthwithinthePortjurisdictionand “I’ve beentoldthatifavesselisclearingintoportandplanningonleavingfrom We forwardedtheletterto I wouldappreciateanyhelpyoucanoffer. I useeSeaClearwherepossibleandthisusedtobethegreatestexperiencewhen We havespokenwithothercruiserswhoclearedinyesterdayalsohadthe I askedwhywasnotbeinggiventhein/outclearanceashadbeendoneinourlast He finallycameoutwithonlythein-boundclearanceformandtoldmeIwouldneed The agentwentbackintotheofficeandcameoutseveraltimes,askingme The agentaskedmehowlongIwasgoingtostayinDominicaandsaidtwoweeks. We leftMartiniqueheadedforDominicaonFebruary6thandarrivedinRoseau I’m hopingyoucanfindoutwhathappenedhere... Compass , YACHT CLEARANCEFEES Compass’s

— TENYEARSAFTER Dominicaagent,HubertWinston,whoreplied:

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Fax:(758)4520311 WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED —Continuedonnextpage ing permit. he/she willgranttheautomaticin/outclearancealongwith(coast–wise)cruis- is allbasedontheparticularofficerandsituationathand,whetherornot then thatvesselhastoclearoutofthefinalportbeforeleavingcountry.Sothis agents tellmethatonceavesselisenteringoneportandleavingoutofanother, even ifthevesselisclearingintooneportandleavingfromanotherwithin14days. fully, undernosuspicionsofanysort,thentheautomaticin/outwouldbegranted officer deemsthevessel,captainandcrewareoperatingwithingoodfaithlaw- working hours)andthevesselwouldhavetoclearoutofotherport.Butif rity systemsattheirdisposal,thenacoastwisepermitisissued(forfreewithinnormal vessel requiresadditionalinspectionforwhateverreason,bytheRSSorothersecu- if theofficerinchargeattimeofclearancedeemsthatcaptainoragent women onthefrontlineofrespectiveofficesinCustomsatportsentry. Customs tomakesurethecorrectinformationgetsfiltereddownmenand Obviously, therewillhavetobediscussionswithtourismofficialsandtheheadof automatic in/outclearancenomatterwhichportyouarriveatandleavefrom. ance fromanyport.Ijustcalledtoverifythisinformation:allinall,it’s14days a coastalclearance.ThiswillnotbehelpfultoyachtingtourisminDominica.” and changesonmywebsitetofacetherealityofhavingclearinoutget understood itasmuchtheyachts. tourism atthetime,thatwasintention—althoughCustomsmaynothave between PortsmouthandRoseau.Frommycommunicationswiththeministerof years backitwasclearlyunderstoodthatthein-and-outclearanceallowedyoutogo per personmonthw In St.Vincent&theGrenadines,visitorsonprivateboatspayaCruiseTaxofEC$35 “I havebeenveryusedtoseeingthecruisingpermit,plushadCustoms “The automaticin/outthatweallloveisgreatandconvenient…but!Thereabut: “Chris, youareright;theintentionwastohaveaseamlesssystemofin/outclear- To whichHubertreplied: “I suggestthisgetssortedout,otherwiseIwillhavetopostabunchofretractions Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners e-mail:[email protected] Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

CHRIS DOYLE

tmail.com - Web: http://www.ppg.com l: francine000@ho • NET RESULT: Less expensive and less complicated. boat would pay the fol- As a nutshell example, two people cruising on a 41-foot charge any fees at all (the Oh — and what about Dominica? Among places that Thanks to the St. Maarten Marine Trades Association, the Marine & Yachting • NOW: Clearance Fee of EC$5 for boats under 40 feet, and EC$15 for boats over under 40 feet, and EC$15 Fee of EC$5 for boats • NOW: Clearance a bundle of St. Lucia has introduced It’s a bit cheaper now (and • NET RESULT: the Grenadines St. Vincent & Fee of EC$10 per person. • THEN: Entry charter yachtsgood for one month. Crewed Tax of EC$35 per person, • NOW: Cruise but for the average cruising couple, paying EC$70 for • NET RESULT: A big hike, Grenada per boat, plus a Port Authority Fee ranging in cost • THEN: Entry Fee of EC$15 of Permit charges are applied, plus Port Charges • NOW: Only the former Cruising In Antigua & Barbuda, visitors on private boats pay an Entry Fee and a Cruising In Antigua & Barbuda, visitors on private boats pay an boat, plus a per-person Permit Fee, both on scales according to the length of the departure tax lowing for a week’s visit to the countries listed above (from least to most expen- lowing for a week’s visit to the countries listed above St. Vincent & the sive, in US$/EC$ equivalents): St. Lucia US$15/EC$40, St. Maarten US$47/ Grenadines US$26/EC$70, Grenada US$31/EC$83.10, Les Saintes (unless EC$126, Antigua US$55/EC$148, BVI US$56/EC$150, anchored) US$78/EC$210. Galante are virtually free), it’s French islands of Martinique, and Marie Antilles: EC$4 per person about the cheapest destination for clearance in the Lesser during normal working hours — and that’s that! Association of Grenada, SVG Customs, Caribbean Marine Association President John Duffy, and everyone else who helped with information for this report. 40 feet, plus Navigational Aids Fee of EC$15 and Practique Fee of EC$10 (for boats and Practique Fee of Aids Fee of EC$15 40 feet, plus Navigational ranging in obtain an Occasional License Charter boats must also up to 100 tons). the length of the boat. to EC$40 depending on cost from EC$20 legislation besides). new yacht-friendly Cruise foot per month, plus the per-person SVG are charged EC$5 per based outside pay crew are exempt). Bareboats based outside SVG Tax for passengers (valid charter ranging from EC$60 to EC$140, depending on the lengthan Occasional License Fee the Cruise Tax. (The bareboat company can pay of the boat, plus the per-person under 12 are exempt from the Cruise Tax. Occasional License Fee.) Children For on a par with Grenada (for a mid-size boat there). a one-month stay is about SVG is expensive. foreign-based charter boats on length of boat, plus a Cruising Permit ranging from EC$35 to EC$55 depending depending on length of boat. The Cruising Permit in cost from EC$50 to EC$150 out waived for any months when the yacht is hauled is payable monthly, but is and stored. the skipper. EC$8.10 per person, excluding went to press. Compass Corinth Hwy, St. Lucia Corinth - Tel: 758-450 3078 - Emai - has been published, there has been a clear and there has been a has been published, Caribbean Compass Continued from previous page Continued from St. Lucia • THEN: Cruising License ranging in cost from EC$50 to EC$1,000 depending on • NET RESULT: For a week in the Saintes a 40-foot boat would pay about US$78/ • NET RESULT: For a week in the Saintes a 40-foot boat Les Saintes • THEN: No charges. at costs raging from three • NOW: Use of laid moorings is virtually compulsory, • NET RESULT: Not only does Antigua rival the BVI for cost of visiting, we are also • NET RESULT: Not only does Antigua rival the BVI for So, a decade after publishing our last “fees” article, let’s look at the changes at our last “fees” article, let’s look at the changes So, a decade after publishing plus monthly Cruising • NOW: Entry Fee ranging in cost from US$10 to US$20, “Hope I didn’t confuse you any more than you are!” confuse you any more than “Hope I didn’t in an about yacht entry procedures can be that much confusion Whew! If there harmonize yacht entry procedures across the sevenThere is a move afoot to • NET RESULT: You now pay to play. Antigua & Barbuda and up, depending on • THEN: Entry Fee ranging in cost from EC$30 to EC$520 Currently, charges are variously called Port, Customs, Cruising Permit, Practique, Customs, Cruising Permit, are variously called Port, Currently, charges depending on the length of • NOW: A weekly fee ranging from US$20 to US$290 • NET RESULT: US$56 per week for a visiting cruising couple adds up fast. • NET RESULT: US$56 per week for a visiting cruising St. Maarten (Dutch) US$2 per person. • THEN: No Entry Fee, but a Departure Tax of approximately British Virgin Islands • THEN: Entry Fee of US$10 for boats under 50 tons. for visitors, plus an “annual • NOW: Cruising Permit of US$4 per person per day Performance Paints the length of the boat and the length of stay. EC$210 — “ouch” for cruisers. But for a charter boat the Saintes is cheaper than St. EC$210 — “ouch” for cruisers. But for a charter boat in (a 60-foot crewed char- Vincent & the Grenadines AND you get a mooring thrown in the Saintes and US$190 ter yacht with six passengers would pay US$92 for week to visit SVG). Euro for half a day for the smallest boats to 190 Euro a month for the largest boats, Euro for half a day for the smallest boats to 190 Euro unless you anchor by Pain de Sucre or in Terre du Bas. informed that “fees are subject to change at any time”. some favorite destinations in the Lesser Antilles. Fees given are those payable during the Lesser Antilles. Fees given are those payable during some favorite destinations in fees often apply. Additional fees for bridge openings, normal office hours; overtime The information below is cor- National/Marine Park fees, etcetera, are not included. of rect to the best of our knowledge at the time this issue 200 tons pay an alternative Permit ranging in cost from US$8 to US$14. (Yachts over US$200.) Antigua also now rate that includes both the above and starts at about applies to all non-Antiguan charges a departure tax of EC$70 per “passenger” (this officials decide who citizens whether departing by air or by yacht). The Immigration crew (as on a crewed char- is a yacht passenger. Unless a person is fully professional the skipper as a passenger. ter boat), Immigration usually counts everyone except island that is celebrated as one of the most hassle-free in the Eastern Caribbean, it’s hassle-free in the Eastern celebrated as one of the most island that is blocks. Over the biggest stumbling to revisit one of yacht tourism’s apparently time 16 years that and the Leewards and Windwards. Harmonized fees English-speaking nations within and yachts to visit more Caribbean destinations, simple procedures would encourage the once there. (The eSeaClear system addresses encourage clearance compliance forms to some degree, but it is still not universallystandardization of yacht clearance ser- by making all entry charges per person. Public available.) We suggest starting collection to dinghy-dock use, are much more impactedvices, ranging from garbage them than by the size of those people’s boats. Chargingby the number of people using to anyone except those who are renting dockage,by length of vessel has no relevance where the boat’s size has direct relevance to the servicemoorings or haul-out space, a charges by boat length is also unfair: six people on provided. Determining entry much less than a couple on a 40-foot boat. 39-foot boat can get charged Permit. the length of the boat. It included one month’s Cruising — by one country might charge per person, another Navigation or Entry Fees, etcetera; some charge in US$, some in EC$; one has weekly boat length, another by tonnage; fees, another charges a flat fee, yet another uses a com- fees, another has monthly diverse and complicated variety that yachtspeople bination — it’s an egregiously to attempt to understand. cruising the island chain have only pay for four. You also the boat. If vessels under 18 metres stay six weeks they out. Customs Fees range from pay Customs and Port clearance fees when you clear depending on the length US$2 to US$9, and Port Fees range from US$5 to US$20, of the boat. constant call from yachtspeople, businesspeople and marine trades associations for and marine trades from yachtspeople, businesspeople constant call throughout the fees to be standardized procedures and entry yacht clearance Eastern Caribbean. (Weekly fees were introduced in 2003.) tonnage fee” at the first entry for the year. Every effort has been made to reconfirm it, but sometimes this was not possible. Every effort has been made to reconfirm it, but sometimes gospel, and we’d welcome any Therefore this information should NOT be taken as comments or corrections. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 or exploretheislandbydinghy.Youcanwatchmega-yachtscomeandgo,play- rays cruisethewaters. of thewater.Pelicansandred-billedtropicbirdsglideacrossskywhileturtles Atlantic sweepunhinderedacrossthebay.Itisteemingwithwildlife,bothinandout es andendangeredspeciessuchasthehawksbillturtle.Thecoolbreezesof biodiversity inthearea,includingcoralreefs,fringingmangroves,seabedgrass- area aspartofamarinereservetomanagefisheriesandprotectpreservethe unnamed islandsandcaysonthenortheastcoastofAntigua.NEMMAprotectsthis Management Area(NEMMA);thisareaincludes28namedandanumberofother barrier reef.MooringbuoyshaverecentlybeeninstalledbytheNorthEastMarine Bay. HerethegoodsizenaturalharborisprotectedfromAtlanticOceanbya which areallpublicinAntigua. island beingprivatelyleasedtotheMillReefClub,accessisallowedbeaches, nothing morethansparklingblueseas,skiesandadesertedisland.Despitethe It isabeautifulspotwhenyouwanttoescapefromtherealmsofshopsandbars to exploreunderwaterandahandfulofsmallsandywhitebeachessaunteracross. widest point.Itisalowlying,denselyshrubbedislandwithmyriadrockyoutcrops Green Island.Itisnomorethanamilelongandlesshalfwideatits For yourentertainmentyoucansnorkelonthereefandaroundrockyoutcrops The mainanchorageistothenorthwestofislandatentranceNonsuch On Antigua’seastcoastintheareaofNonsuchBayisalittlebitparadisecalled Green Island is atradition,infamilyboating Antigua’s Glorious by RosieBurr

DESTINATIONS Close to: what wedoandthewayit. —Continuedonnextpage reef where,rumorhasit,itwasabandonedafteradrugdrop-off. company. Theneglectedwreckofayachtmakesconspicuousspotonthesouthern century plantswiththeirwide-brimmedleaves,thetallpalmtreesandcactifor they aregoneandyouleftinpeacesolitudewithonlythebirdsgiant morning andmonopolizethebeachsnorkelingarea,butbyafternoon with aprettybeachatthetopandanothertoeast.Daytrippersarrivelatein room forthreeorfourboats.Thereisreasonablesnorkelingoneithersideofthebay Rickett Harbouronthesouthwestsideofisland.Itisanidyllicspotwithenough low inthewarm,shallowwaters,lappingupsun. shades ofgreens,blues,blacksandbrowns,dividingtheseafromsand.Orwal- shore wheresmalltidalpoolsform,stretchingthelengthofbeachinvarying in amodernartgallery,pastthewashed-upfishingnetsandfloatsalongrocky waters. Youcanwalkonthebeachpastallemptyconchshellsasifdisplay ing withtheirmega-toys.Orwatchthekitesurferswhizaboutinsheltered Left: ThewreckofayachtonthesouthernreefatRickettHarbour When youhavehadenoughtherecanmoveyourboataroundthecornerto ...... Below: Conchshellsandsucculentplantsdecoratetheshoreline THE DIFFERENCEIS ofSSCA • OfficialCruisingStation • CameraSurveillance 24HourSecurity • WholeAreaPatrolledby isourPrimaryConcern • Safety,CleanlinessandService onDock“A” DeliveredonallSlipsexcept • On-SiteFuelDockandDiesel • WideConcreteFingerPiers • 282FixedSlips • ProfessionalandCourteousStaff Fajardo, PuertoRico Parcelas Beltrán,Bo.Sardinera, E: F: T: or attheAdministrationOfficeMarina, open 7daysaweekfrom8:00amto4:00pm ¡ [email protected] 787.863.5282 787.863.0313 VISIT US! our webpage and bepartofourfamily. Join ustoday AMENITIES www.sunbaymarina.com • AmpleParking Located1/2mileAwaybyDinghy • USCustomandImmigration ElConquistadorHotelandCasino ElegantRestaurantssuchas • NearSmallEateriesandUpscale ConvenienceStore • NearbyShip'sChandleryand • LaundryFacilities • RestroomsandShowers • WaterandElectricity andWi-Fi • ComplementaryCableTV at Fajardo , — Continued from previous page Tenpound Bay is an enchanting spot on the south side of the island. With just enough room for one boat to swing, it is perhaps best explored by dinghy. At the entrance to the bay a deep channel leads you into the first beach on your right. I like to call it “Two Palm” beach. It is a picture-perfect image of the Caribbean with two lofty palm trees standing in the middle of the sand and a couple of small picnic tables

Above: At Rickett Harbour, the century plants keep you company Below: By the afternoon, day-trippers are gone

The spot that the author has dubbed Two Palm Beach looks primo for a picnic MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 sheltered from the sun by the swinging palms. The small underwater coral gardens are a lovely place to snorkel, the clear water inviting and a pleasure to explore, espe- cially with some healthy coral making an appearance. The bay leads into the small anchorage (enough for one small boat) with another pretty beach at its head. Green Island is one of our favorite places to get away from it all. With our boat laden with stores, we could stay for weeks, minding our own business, enjoying the natural beauty of the place. So if you plan to visit for a couple of days make sure you bring plenty of supplies, as you won’t want to leave for a while. Rosie Burr and Sim Hoggarth are cruising the Caribbean aboard their Corbin 39, Alianna. They have traveled through 23 countries and more than 12,000 miles in six years. Visit their blog at www.yacht.alianna.co.uk. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 PLAYING INTHEPITONS byDeviSharp Left: :Theauthor’shusbanddescendsPetitPiton Above: ThestunningviewofGrosPitonfromPetit from thetopwereevenmorespectacular thanthosefromtheGrosPiton. a nearlyverticalpieceofrock.Thisisnot ahikeforthosefearfulofheights.Theviews help theclimber.Therearenarrowledges andplaceswhereyougrabaropetoclimb hands grabbingontorootsandinplaces hangingontotheropesthataresetupto lenging hike.Thetrailissteepandmuch oftwomilesisdonein“fourwheeldrive”: which beckonedus. can seeSt.Vincent,VieuxFortandalmostreachouttouchthePetitPiton, with epiphytesandvines.Atthetopviewsweremagnificent—onaclearday you workout. Asweclimbed,thevegetationbecameluxuriant;treeswerefestooned is steepandinsomeplaceshasverylargesteps.Theclimbwasdefiantlyanaerobic The four-miletrailgetsalotofuseandisinverygoodcondition.rapidascent Harmony Beachtotheparkentrance. there aremanylicensedguideswaitingatthevisitor’scenter.Wetookataxifrom advance orwaituntilyouarriveattheentranceFondGensLibreandaskforaguide; cover theCoralConservationFee. offer tohelpyouontothemooringandthatisyourchoice,buttheirfeedoes not in theeveningtocollect“CoralConservationFee”.Thereareboatmenwho will SMMA byboatyoumustuseamooringballandParkRangerswillcomeyour improved sincetheprotectionandallocationofresources.Whenyouarrivein the tected areas,andmonitoringhasshownthatfishproductionharvestinghave the southend.TheSMMAhasdifferentmanagementzones,includingmarinepro- 12 kilometersofcoastlinefromAnseJambonatthenorthendtoL’Ivrogne Site thatincludesseveralothervolcanicfeaturesandcoralreefs. unique andhaveprotectedstatus.ThePitonsarepartofaUNESCOWorldHeritage bit ofthesurroundinglandandmarineenvironmentshavebeenrecognizedas often usedasaniconforSt.Lucia;eventhenationalbeerisnamedPiton.Quitea azure andemeraldsea.Thesespectacularfeatures,GrosPitonPetitPiton,are Piton ispartoftheparkareaandyoumustuseaguide. myself the2,619-footGrosPitonand2,461-footPetitwereirresistible. Petit PitonistheshorteroftwoPitonsby158feetbutdefinitelyamorechal- The hikestartsat800feetinelevationandittookustwohourstoclimbthetop. The PitonsbeggedtobehikedandforAnnSteveon The SoufriereMarineManagementArea(SMMA,www.smma.org.lc)encompasses As youapproachSt.Luciatwolarge,cone-shapedvolcanicplugsrisefromthe —Continuedonnextpage

You can engage a guide in You canengageaguidein Receta and Hunter and andHunter MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Tern. The Pitons from the sea: ‘they begged to be hiked’ Continued from previous page Continued from — Devi Sharp is a retired wildlife biologist and is hik- We enjoy exploring a new place on each trip to the The town of Soufriere is a busy fishing village and The Pitons area offers spectacular snorkeling and If hiking tall peaks is not your thing there is stillIf hiking tall peaks is not I recommend that you engage a guide for your for your that you engage a guide I recommend Bottom: Jah I’s sign. Hiring a guide to climb Petit Piton Bottom: Jah I’s sign. Hiring a guide to climb Petit Piton is recommended Right: Top: Fresh bread, anyone? Damian the baker at his oven in Soufriere ing the Caribbean with her husband, Hunter, on their , south end of St. Lucia so next visit we plan to check out the Hotel Chocolat near the Dasheen Restaurant in the hills between the Pitons. It has gotten rave reviews from other cruisers. Maybe we will climb a Piton first to make room for some chocolate. it is fun to just walk around town. There are two “local bakeries” that bake bread in wood-fired ovens. The bread has a slight smoky flavor and is delicious hot out of the oven. You can ask for the bread to be plain, buttered, or with cheese. I can recommend all three. One of the local bakeries is at the north side of the church in an alley between the Napa auto parts sign and the Refreshment Bar. There are no signs for the bakeries; you just need to ask for the “local bakery” and someone will point it out to you. scuba diving with high diversity of fish and coral. The regulations in St. Lucia require you to use a licensed local guide to scuba dive, which helps pro- tect the resource and provides a source of income to locals. We have taken a few dives with the Park Rangers and have been very satisfied. You can snor- kel on your own and we do this drifting with our dinghy in tow. plenty to do in the area. My favorite place to go is theplenty to do in the area. My and Mineral BathsDiamond Falls Botanical Garden which is a short walk(http://diamondstlucia.com), This lovely tropicalfrom the town center of Soufriere. entry fee is US$5/EC$12garden is well signed. The can soak in the publicand for a few dollars extra you one of the private bathingmineral water baths or rent enough for you and threerooms with tubs just large sulfur springs betweenthin friends. There are also Soufriere and the Ladera resort, where you can take a mud bath or just breathe the vapors. first ascent up Petit Piton. The landowner, Jah I, Jah I, Petit Piton. The landowner, first ascent up his sons from the trailhead and has a sign across If you choose to do it on will guide you on the hike. Jah I and offer a few your own, stop in a chat with and his sons do keeping dollars for the work that he You really do want him the trail in good condition. him a few boat lines to replace old ropes! We gave and he was delight- that were surplus to our needs by following the road ed. You can find Jah I’s house a right on the road from Harmony Beach, taking mile; the sign is on the and walking about a half a left side. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 FREE CRUISINGGUIDES & theGrenadines VHF Channel16 @gmail.com 784-456-1302 784-456-2640 784-457-2178 St. Vincent

ottleyhall Compliments of: Phone: email: Fax: www.caymanislandscruisingguide.com www.trinidadruisingguide.com www.jamaicacruisingguide.com www.haiticruisingguide.com www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com www.freecruisingguide.com Boca Chica, DominicanRepublic www.marinazarpar.com Cruising Guide Puerto Rico Cruising Guide Cayman Islands Cruising Guide Trinidad Cruising Guide Jamaica Cruising Guide Haiti Cruising Guide Dominican Republic Shower&toilet Electricity&water • 22berthsforyachtsfrom22M-65M • • Electrical,refrigeration&mechanicalrepairs MARINA SERVICES Welding, painting, fi berglass • • Woodwork &metal work • Sand 40tonnetravellift • blasting Drydockfacilitiesupto65M&1000tonne • • • Covered SHIPYARD REPAIR SERVICES drydock Marina Zar-Par View acrossChristmasCoveonSt.JamesIslandtoThomas The authorwithfriendlystaffandpatrons atCulebra’sPanaderíaTropical —Continuedonnextpage ferry toVieques($2Adults,$1Seniors). need inthewayofsupplies.FromferrydockatFajardo,youcanalsocatch West Marine,RadioShackandIsletaMarinafindprettymuchanythingyoumay Fajardo forUS$2.50.OnceyougettoFajardo,$3cantakeataxiWal-Mart, and checkouttheinternetatPanderiaTropicalacrossfromferryterminal. busy tosayhelloandhelpyoufindwherewantgo.Getyourmorningcoffee of Culebraandbasicallysaysitallaboutthislaid-back,friendlyisland.Nooneistoo Honda Ensenada.CheckinwithUSCustomsattheDeweyDockoffice. west totheislandofCulebra,anothersafeanchoragewithfreemooringballsat located directlyacrossfromSt.ThomasYachtClub.Fromthere,continuesailing Christmas CoveinSt.Thomasandgrabafreemooringball—is Soper’s HoleMarinaandhavebreakfastatD-BestCoffeebeforeyoutakeoff. mooring ballsandthendinghytoCustoms.GetashowertokenforUS$4fromthe pay foramooringball,youcananchorsafelyintheWestEndlittleoutside — theyaresofriendlyandtheofficeiseasytogetinoutof.Ifyoudon’twant tuck intowhiletouringwesttowardtheDominicanRepublic. from VirginGorda,BVI,anddiscoveredseveralofthelesser-knownsafeharborsto naturally popularwithcruisers.Recently,wesailedourtwo-tonrace-cruiserwest the tradewinds,sailingduewestinCaribbeanprovideseasydownwindsailing, same thingwhenhefirstsailedintheCaribbean.Owingtonaturaldirectionof neer daysofNorthAmerica,butChristopherColumbusmayhavebeenthinkingthe If youwanttovisitthemainlandofPuertoRico,takeferryfromCulebra “OPEN SOMEDAYS,CLOSEDOTHERS!”That’sasignalongoneofthemainstreets Heading westtoSt.Thomas,iftheweathertakesanunfriendlyturntuckinto Before sailingwest,checkoutoftheBVIatWestEndCustomsofficeinTortola Go west,youngman!Perhapsyourememberthatphraseasoneusedinthepio- in Culebra… and Beyond Chillin’ by NanetteEldridge MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 There is nothing general about Basil's Great General Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the World’s Ten Ten Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the World’s Imagine decorating your home with antiques from Bali and India. Basil’s Bar : Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for island joy. perfect for island joy. as bright as the sea and as light as air... : Fabrics WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! Located in Kingstown in an 18th century building named Cobblestone. Air

www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com Collection of beautiful bamboo furniture, contemporary pieces from Asia and Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Basil’s in Mustique Visit Mustique

BASIL’S BAR: BASIL’S Visitors to Mustique are invited to: to Mustique Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S renovated, the new face Recently Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek and today lives up to that tradition. lobster in season, steaks andof Basil’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more: offering fresh seafood, enjoy sunset cocktails and catchthe best beefburger in the Caribbean. Equipped with WIFI, you can up on the web. Breakfast service begins at 8:00am. Lunch 11:00am - 6pm, and Dinner 7:30 until Night Jump Up and late. Come to Basil’s for cocktails anytime and plan to attend the Wednesday Festival in the Caribbean. The Mustique Blues BBQ. Basil’s Bar is home of the only Blues Festival 6, 2013. Call (784) 488-8350 or VHF 68. place from January 23 - February takes BOUTIQUE BASIL’S to women, men and children, plus lots of T-shirts For Elegant island evening and playful day wear. silver and gemstone jewelry. home. Basil’s Boutique also offers take STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheese from Europe, gourmet jams and sauces. French with fine Store. Bountifully stocked foods in Paradise. Imported cigars and an unusual collection of books not to be missed. Fine Call (784) 488-8407. FOREVER: ACROSS has a magnificent collection of furniture from Asia and beyond, contemporary Across Forever pieces, home furnishings, fabulous lighting accessories and more. Shipping is easily and efficiently arranged. Call (784) 488-8407. are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors conditioned, you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals are some of the best on the island. Now offering full catering services. Call (784) 457-2713. BASIL’S: AT beyond, and more. Opening of a new coffee shop by the sea. Call (784) 456-2602 S/Y Geronimo. Boquerón beach (balneario de Boquerón), a

Continued from previous page Continued from Nanette Eldridge and Bruno Bruch are sailing aboard The Mona Passage can be challenging, depending on the weather, so wait for an The next leg of your journey will take you along the Mona Passage to the The next leg of your journey will take you along the Mona Passage to the Before you sail out of Puerto Rico, make sure that you have plenty of provisions, Before you sail out of Puerto Rico, make sure that you Located around the western tip of Puerto Rico, another nice stepping stone is Located around the western tip of Puerto Rico, another Proceeding west, sail to Ponce on the Puerto Rican mainland, and grab a slip at Rican mainland, and sail to Ponce on the Puerto Proceeding west, In Culebra, for local eats, you can’t miss the Dinghy Dock restaurant located in the the Dinghy Dock restaurant local eats, you can’t miss In Culebra, for The author’s partner, Bruno, taking one of the sidewalk café breaks that Puerto Rican culture offers Could it be more convenient? The Dinghy Dock Restaurant in Culebra Could it be more convenient? The Dinghy Dock Restaurant optimum weather window to set sail. Some sailors consider the Mona Passage one of the most difficult passages in the Caribbean, but it’s well worth crossing it to reach the Dominican Republic, Cuba and beyond. And as every cruiser worth his salt knows, the experience is all part of the journey, so set sail and enjoy the journey west! Dominican Republic. Dominican Republic. as things get “more dear” when you head west. public beach and resort managed by the Puerto Rican government that is rated as public beach and resort managed by the Puerto Rican one of the island’s best beaches. Boquerón — a safe anchorage and a great place to enjoy a few days soaking in the Boquerón — a safe anchorage and a great place to enjoy is a beach village located flavor of Puerto Rico before heading farther west. Boquerón after the Puerto Rican in the town of Cabo Rojo. According to local folklore, family and friends, he would Roberto Confresi shared some of his treasure with his which is just south of hide what was left over in a cave located in Barrio Pedernales, any treasure in the cave — Boquerón Bay. Throughout the years no one has found maybe you’ll have better luck! Enjoy you can walk to Cash ’n’ Carry, a nice grocery store with a great little deli next door. you can walk to Cash ’n’ Carry, a nice grocery store with small restaurants for tradi- Next to the marina is the boardwalk with music and is the second largest city tional local cuisine. A well-kept secret on the island, Ponce Local Poncenians tell me they and is the home of traditional Puerto Rican culture. but Ponce is actually feel that it is impolite to boast about their accomplishments, politicians. Rent a car and the home of several notable Puerto Rican governors and Ponce or the Ponce Museum check out the famous historic Firehouse in downtown July 9th, “El Greco to Goya, of Art, which is having a special exhibit March 25th to paintings from the collection Masterpieces from El Prado Museum”, a selection of 25 Ponce is also the home of Don of El Prado Museum in Madrid, ($5 admission). If time permits, take a tour Q rum, a generous sponsor of the PFYC sailing program. Castillo, a beautiful 1920s of the Don Q rum factory and stop by the Serralles of Don Q rum fame. After a Spanish Revival-style home built by the Serralles family why Ponce is a popular few days in this friendly port, you will definitely understand tourist destination. Ponce Yacht & Fishing Club, or anchor in the bay and pay $10 per person per day in the bay and pay $10 per Fishing Club, or anchor Ponce Yacht & dock. If you restaurant, laundry and dinghy including showers, for marina privileges at the PYFC fuel please note you must wait into US Customs at Ponce, are checking 40 There is a landing fee ($25 for vessels under dock for inspection by US Customs. will be deducted from the PYFC slip fee. From there, feet and $50 over 40 feet) that center of Honda Ensenada. Another favorite is Zaco’s Tacos for authentic Mexican. is Zaco’s Tacos for authentic Ensenada. Another favorite center of Honda Beach and, if without visiting Flamenco would not be complete A trip to Culebra Melones Beach which is part of the Carlos Rosario Beach, you’re into snorkeling, natural reserve. — MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 a gascylinderisfittingly cess. Italsocrackedapartthehullwhere itjoinstothetransom.Thelocaltermfor from thehull,breakingitinpiecesand tumbling thedeck-steppedmastinpro- explosion wassopowerfulitcompletelysplit andliftedthedeckcabinmoulding which theyhadpurchasedlastyear. fast whentheexplosionoccurred.Thefamily wasreportedlyvacationingontheboat, nately hadlefttheboataccompaniedby anotherchildtobuyempanadasforbreak- an orphan.Hewillbelookedafterbyhisgrandmother,theowner’swife,whofortu- days later.Thetwoworkersarerecovering.six-year-oldchild,Zony’sson,isnow treated andthentransferredtothespecialistburnsunitinMaracaibobutdiedsix stepdaughter, ZonyPerezNieves(30),whohadbeenrescuedfromthewater,was to hospitalbuttheowner,49-year-oldHenryJoséVilaGarcia,diedonway.His nearby boats. been inthedinghyalongside,hadaninjuredeye. the outsideofboatwerealsoinbadshape,oneburntandother,whohad in thewaterwithsevereburnsalloverherbody.Twoworkerswhohadbeencleaning a childflyingthroughtheairabovesloop their slipsandrattledwindowsashore.DockmasterFreddyturnedaroundsaw Puerto LaCruz,Venezuelatherewasatremendousexplosionthatrockedboatsin gas system—now Check yourcooking resulting intwodeaths. The boatliterallyexploded, On Saturday,January7thataround8:15 In myopinionagasstoveanditscylinder andpipingisthebiggestdangerthata The explosionwasobviouslyduetocooking gasinsidetheboatbeingignited.The The localfiremen,ambulanceandrescueservicesarrivedtookthevictimsoff The flameswerequicklyputoutbythemanyfireextinguishersbroughtfrom People onnearbyboatsrushedoverandrescuedthechildhismotherwhowas Cooking GasExplosionKillsTwo bombona . Sea Dancer AM intheBahiaRedondaMarinaat , whichwasinflames. by CrisRobinson ghy. Thengotothebeachorbaruntilyou aresureitissafe. off, remember?).Geteverybodyofftheboat fast,whetheronthedockorindin- 12-volt fansastheirmotorscreatesparks (andbesides,you’veturnedtheelectricity Open alltheportsandhatcheslift thefloorboardsforventilation.Don’tuse where firesaremostlikelytostart. proper containersondeckoratleastinthe sternfarfromtheengineandgalleyareas bustible gasexplosions.Theyshouldbehandledoutsideondeckandstoredin from usingit. and needtobewarnedotherwise.Youngchildrendrunksshouldbanned of gasstoves,visitingfriendsandfamilyseeacookerasfamiliarfriendlyappliance gas. preheating andisnotalwaysreadilyavailable—thatmoststockboatscomewith nient comparedtothealternatives—electricityneedsagenerator;kerosene flame orhotspotwillsetitoff. propane isneededtoformahighlyexplosivemixturewithair,andanysparkor accumulate inthebottomofboatunderfloorboards.Onlyasmallamount Cooking gasessuchaspropaneandbutaneareheavierthanairsinkdown used twoorthreetimeseverydayandifitblowsthedevastationisinstantaneous. cruiser iseverexposedto—muchmoresothanhurricanes,reefsandpirates.It Remember —safetyisnoaccident! If yoususpectagasleakhasoccurred, turn offtheelectricityatmainswitch. Gasoline fumes,paints,thinners,andsolventsarealsopotentialsourcesofcom- While peopleaccustomedtolivingonboatsaregenerallywellawareofthedangers Many diehardsailorsrefusetousegasstovesforthisreason,butitissoconve- gas cylinder quarter nearlocationofthe Note hulldamageattheport Sea Dancer aftertheblast. — Seenextpage MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo & 7 miles East of International Airport FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMEN FOR CRUISING POINT FOCAL

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Tel: 809 523 5858 VHF Channel 5

aaaaa MMMM Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Zar-Par Marina • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • 70 Ton Travelift (30' beam) • ABYC certified machanics • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers 11 12 13 0408 14 0507 15 0602 16 0654 17 0742 18 0827 19 0911 20 0953 21 1036 22 1119 23 1203 (new) 24 1249 25 1336 26 1424 27 1513 28 1602 29 1651 30 1916 1740 1828 • There should be a shut-off valve • There should be a shut-off • The stove should have safety isolated from the boat’s interior and isolated from the boat’s interior A vented and drained overboard. drain self-draining cockpit will exits water but not gas if its drain put are below the waterline. Don’t anything else in the compartment If that could block the drain/vent. with a the compartment has a lid always rubber seal make sure it is tightly clamped. off at the cylinder that is always in use. except when the stove is This is normally an electric solenoid valve operated from a switch locat- ed in the galley with a red light to warn when it is on. A mechanical valve operated by a handle on an extension rod is sometimes used, but this does not give such an obvi- ous warning when it is left on. burners that will not light unless the knob is pressed in, and will shut themselves off if the flame locker, or in a sealed compartment locker, or in a sealed compartment • The piping installation should be goes out. WALROND 21 22 23 1112 (new) 24 1158 25 1238 26 1321 27 1406 28 1452 29 1539 30 1807 1628 31 1857 1717 April 1 2 3 4 1947 5 2037 6 2127 7 2219 8 2312 9 0000 (full) 10 0007 0105 0206 0307

deck

MARCH & APRIL 2012 OF THE MOON

COOKING COOKING Sea Dancer’s

MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE

Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with • The gas cylinder(s) should be in a location where if it leaks the gas will drain • The gas cylinder(s) should If your boat has a gas stove, the following precautions should be strictly If your boat has a gas stove, • A combustible gas detector with a sensor under the cabin sole near the stove • A combustible gas detector with a sensor under the Parts of were simply gone

March DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 1835 5 1926 6 2017 7 2108 8 2200 9 2251 10 2342 11 0000 (full) 12 0034 0128 13 0223 14 0320 15 0419 16 0519 17 0617 18 0713 19 0806 20 0856 1943 1028 GAS SAFETY GAS charts. Fair tides! running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. overboard and never into the boat, e.g. strapped to the pulpit, in a vented deck boat, e.g. strapped to the pulpit, in a vented deck overboard and never into the observed: is an excellent additional safeguard. professionally done using copper tubing and/or flexible reinforced hose certified professionally done using copper tubing and/or flexible suitable for gas. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 on thetoppinglifttodeterminesafelowestlevel.(Haveyoudonethatyet?) fourth seasoninthesunwentbybeforeItomastandputanobviousmark on theboom,anditregularlywaslowenoughtorubholesinbimini’scloth.A covering thesails.However,ittookmemorethanthreeyearstolearnkeepaneye always beswungtothesideofboatforjob bimini wouldneverbetreatedsopoorly.Theboomcan mined tolearnfromothers,andinsistedthatmynew ing thepipesandsaggingSunbrella.Iwasdeter- had stoodonthebiminitoserviceboombag,bend- components havehadtopayteachmesomething. the dinghyissue,andhowoften mother ship. spend theirnightsupintheairandlockedto and motorhavealwaysbeenlockedtosomething, never-wavering attentiontosecurity.Ourlittledinghy never beenstolen,thankstotallytotheAdmiral’s so wecalledtheoldone“thetrainingdinghy”. larger, dryer,moreusefuldinghywasneededanyway, ghy andoutboard,havebeentoagreatdegree.A wakes, andkidsarounddocks. evolved fromusblamingsurges,tides,powerboat respect, andwewereguiltless.Eventhatposition training model—asifitwasresponsibletoteachus started referringtothepoordinghyandengineasour ragged top.Iwastoblame,andfeltbadforit.We ting fuelcap.Thedinghyhadaloosetransomand steering arm,atwistedplasticcover,andloose-fit- a sternanchor.However,by2006,theenginehadno snorkeling, andthenhadtostartusingitfaithfullyas anchor Ifoundonboardwasnotjustforfishingand Chaguaramas. Ifirsthadtorealizethatthedinghy after beingpushedunderdocksfromJostVanDyketo we camedownin2004,butsoonlookedratherpoorly, The dinghyandengineservedusreasonablywellwhen HP leftoverfrommyHobieCatdaysbackinCanada. which IreplacedwithafairlytrustworthyNissan2.5 The enginewasanunreliablefour-horsepowerMercury, things thatFrenchcharterboatsoftenseemtohave. with asomewhatemptybasketofCaribbeanskills. parts andpiecesthathadsurviveduntilIcamealong six yearsofslaveryinthechartertrade.Still,ithad those mistakesatamuchlowercostthanwedid. better yet,someoneelse’sboat?Ifyou’relikeme,youwouldtohavemadeall When Ireceivedher,noticedthatthecharterers Low Marks Recently, Irealizedhowmanyparallelsthereareto I dohavetoaddthatourdinghyandengine We promisedtobebetterwhenwereplacedthedin- The dinghywasaserviceableAX3,oneofthoselittle Dinghy Lessons My wife,Dawn,andIbought Do yousometimeswishhadstartedcruisingwithalessexpensiveboat,or, Located oppositeG.Y.E. TRAINING WHEELS e-mail: [email protected] VHFCh16/68 & CANVAS •BEQUIA GRE Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527 G

C R A E N N AADINES Cat Tales by LaurieCorbett V D Cat Tales A (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) I , ourTobago35catamaran,afterithaddone S N

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—Continuedonnextpage charged, andlearninghowtoequalizethemeverytwomonthsorso. solar panelswithverylittleloadattheendofsunnydaytogetbatteriesfully capacity atanyonetime,keepingthefloodedbatteriestoppedupwithwater,using style batteries,sizingtheprimarybanksothatyouuselessthan50percentof lessons includechoosingtruedeep-cyclebatteriesinsteadoftheintermediateRV ing. Ataboutathousanddollarsperset,batterylessonsareexpensive.Sofarthe secondary filters;andseldomreplacemyfilters. always there.Ialsohaveswitchedmyprimaryfilterstotwomicrons,sameasthe the endofprocedurewouldscareyou,withdeadalgae,dirt,andwateralmost each cantobecombined,settled,andpouredoffonalaterday.Theremainderat locker untilacalmday.Ipouroffthediesel,leavingthree-quartersoflitreorsoin precise amountofstabilizerthatkillsalgae,andthensetthecansinanexterior dock withadinghyfullofjerrycans,pickupthediesel,returntoboat,add Fredericton, NewBrunswick,Canada,andchangedmyprocedure.Inowgotothe through theproblems,Icheckedwithawell-knownmechanicinmyhometownof in thefueltanks,primaryfilters,andsecondaryfilters.Afterworking two years.However,soonerorlateritcatchesuptoallofus. Of course,we’vegonethroughmorethanourshareofbatteries,andarestilllearn- Battery School Like manypeople,IsimplytrustedthefuelthroughoutCaribbeanforfirst Fuel Days Cat Tales hadamess MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 hour Full information on DVDs at www.street-iolaire.com Street’s Guides and DVDs are available Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of information on tracking & securing for a storm GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com Street’s videos, at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, the anchorages first made in 1985, With all these updates readily available, Street’s guides are timeless. NEW! ALL departments put out a free annual guide for bars, restaurants and hotels. are now back as DVDs in the Eastern Caribbean Rocks don’t move — or if they do they are shown on up-to-date Imray charts. every year, which is much more up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist are the only ones that describe places and history. Street’s Guides Real sailors use Street’s Guides for plus interesting anecdotes of people, Regarding marine infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free marine trade guide Guest What? to travel to sea, and high We have learned that a list is necessary for getting ready Knock It Off the barnacles off our abla- I recently read an article by Chris Doyle about knocking are better learners than oth- Some lessons are kinder than others, and some of us HURRICANE TIPS! DVDs available at Imray, Kelvin Hughes, Armchair Sailor/Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com inter-island and harbor pilotingdirections, • “Transatlantic with Street” documents a saiing passage from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours • “Antigua Week ’85” is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour • “Street on Knots” demonstrates the essential knots and line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 • “Streetwise 1 and 2” give tips that appeared in the popular video Sailing Quarterly, plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and southwest coast of Ireland on the list is proper closing and latching of all hatches. We thought we had this down on the list is proper closing and latching of all hatches. he reported he had properly pat until a guest on board left one opened, even though of our provisions were well closed it. The mattress, my tools, and significant portions the hatches. Our guests and messed up. Now, the Admiral doesn’t even let me close and she trusts nobody I should not take offense — salt water is her sworn enemy, with this important issue. The “training guest” fixed that! while if done later, the painttive bottom paint early. If done early, the paint stays; paint then grows an ecosys- leaves with the much-larger barnacle, and the hole in the Doyle, for the reminder. tem. Why did that take me so long to learn? Thanks, Mr. are in a “Happy Hour”, and be ers. Some day, I’ll even learn just how many minutes the adage goes: “I’ve learned finished with these “training hangovers”. However, as many more.” so much from my past mistakes that I’m thinking of making the drinking water guidelines. We ran over with a bunch of clear plastic juice jugs with a bunch of clear guidelines. We ran over the drinking water to enjoy sat in our cockpit, we continued the water. As the jugs and happily accepted boat from top to we were searching the our books. Soon, however, the sights and wasn’t until late to be an electrical fire. It source of what we presumed bottom for the sun’s rays and bottles had concentrated the we found that the plastic in the day that Sunbrella cov- holes through the cushion’s black crescent-shaped had burned large the Admiral cost cushions satisfactory to into the foam. New matching ers and deep rookie mistake, out in the sun is another Leaving clear plastic jugs us a tidy sum. are gone. that the “training cushions” will not be repeated now one that hopefully Left: Put a mark on the topping lift to indicate where the boom will begin Left: Put a mark on the topping to chafe the bimini jugs concentrated the sun’s rays enough to burn Below: These water-filled plastic holes in the cockpit cushions Tiger Agent: Dealer: Dominica, WI Budget Marine, Doyle 767-448-2705 Ext Marine 18 Victoria Street, Roseau Fax: 767-448-7701 VHF 16 Sailmaker, SeaChoice Products Mercury Marine, Yanmar Marine [email protected] DOMINICA MARINE CENTER : FEATURES ENGINES: 2.5-350hp (2-Stroke & 4-Stroke) @ DUTY-FREE Prices • Easy to carry 25% lighter than wooden-floor inflatables • Air filled floor makes kneeling or sitting extremely comfortable called and said that they had an excess of fresh water, with TDS just above called and said that they had an excess of fresh water, Air Deck boats can be stowed most anywhere. Continued from previous page Continued from Cushion for Error our neighbours on A few years ago, we were enjoying the Tobago Cays when Blades replaced our wind genera- What’s next? Windmill blades and reefing lines. I have Another battery lesson arrived just recently. One of my refrigerator components One of my refrigerator lesson arrived just recently. Another battery Transport has never been easier – with no floor boards AVAILABLE: 6’ 7” (200cm) 46lb(21kg) 7’10” (240cm) 75lb(34kg) 8’10” (270cm) 86lb(39kg) 10’2” (310cm) 92lb(42kg) 11‘2“ (340cm) 99lb(45kg) Lily II tor’s blades three times, and at least two of those times it was because the blades tor’s blades three times, and at least two of those times Each time this occurred, had caught a line that should have been properly tightened. replacements could be found. I shortened the remaining blades and carried on until I had learned the lesson; and I went another complete season this last time to prove blades. (“Silence is gold- then bought the Portuguese-made, expensive blue, quieter the price.) I am hopeful that I en” the salesman explained when I complained about black blades — my “training have learned my lesson at the expense of the standard the back of the boom. blades” — and will keep a better eye on reefing lines at have also learned that my Blue Sky solar controller has an equalizing setting, and have also learned that my Blue Sky solar controller has a little longer. Nigel Calder have learned how to use it. I hope to have these batteries and I am continuing to still has more to teach me in this area and many others, device to provide a con- review his writings. One item left to do is to find a suitable alarm, and get it installed. tinuous voltage readout and an adjustable low-voltage runs off a dedicated inverter, and when not managed properly, the system some- not managed properly, the inverter, and when runs off a dedicated for human inter- before giving up waiting the voltage down quite far times brought found a set screw of the manual, I recently down. With the help vention and shutting It had been to set the low voltage cut-out. that allows us (adjustable potentiometer) it had run to taxed the batteries every time setting, meaning it had left at the lowest be 12.2, but the (the dynamic reading will have now set it at 12.2 volts the cut-out. I under no load). I 12.3 volts after resting not have actually been below batteries will — MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 HURRICANE SEASONCOMEEARLY! or Mayandstaypay for6monthsandyouget Where’s thefi an additionalMONTH FREE. Yes. Ifyoucomeinearlyandstay6months youget “Come earlyandenjoyafree month.” It’s PeakeYacht Servicessaying No theseasonisn’t startingearly. 1 extraMONTHFREE! ne print?None!Just comeinApril

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before my eyes was unbelievable. Yet another cruiseship had dropped anchor in the bay. The beach was completely covered with lounge chairs. A landing craft was plying back and forth between the cruiseship and the beach, bringing supplies: food, drinks, tables, barbecues. The barge drove To Hell With onto the beach to unload, the propellers churning at full blast to keep its bow firmly onto the shore. Meanwhile, a long string of various types of watercraft such as sailboards, water-skis, and other contraptions was being towed towards the shore by another vessel. All this soon to be fol- lowed by boatloads of people. We counted, one hundred, two hundred, three hundred, four hundred! Still they kept coming. Then we lost count. Paradise? In no time at all, the once magnificent solitude of Saline Bay was trans- by Jan de Groot formed into bedlam, D-Day, the troops are landing — Coney Island a tranquil place in comparison! Dismayed, we pulled up our anchor and sailed away. As we approach the 200th edition of Caribbean Compass, which will be The question is, why are cruiseships allowed in tiny islands? Is it for the published in May 2012, we take the opportunity to share with our current sake of a few bucks in landing fees? What is the benefit to the island readers some articles from the past. This article by Jan de Groot was pub- population? The short-term monetary gain cannot compensate for the lished in June of 1998. It is interesting to reflect on what has changed — long-term destruction. The islands are fragile and cannot cope with the and what hasn’t — since then. large amounts of people disgorged from a cruiseship. Only the cruiseship operators benefit from this type of tourism. These ships are self-sufficient, I came to the West Indies almost 30 years ago, and stayed for a decade. floating cities. They come complete with entertainment, food, drinks and I sailed up and down the islands, explored the anchorages, made friends souvenir shops — everything right down to hair salons. Everything the with the locals, and chartered my yacht to help pay the bills. tourist wants is available on the ship. We were reminiscing about old times a few weeks ago during a party at the restaurant of Barefoot Yacht Charters at St. Vincent’s Blue Lagoon. Although this time I was a client instead of a charter operator, I realized that not much has changed in the last 18 years. Paradise is still intact. The islands are still beautiful, the weather is still near perfect, the local people are still the friendliest on earth and the “yachtie” characters in the The once magnificent bar are still the same — only their faces have changed. The schooner Friendship Rose has been replaced on the Bequia ferry run by motorised carriers, but I was pleased to note that, minus her large solitude of Saline Bay deckhouse, she is now hauling tourists in full sailing trim. Where I used

to see the Friendship Rose alongside the dock in Admiralty Bay, I was MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 surprised to see a small cruiseship. A cruiseship in Bequia? I guess that’s progress — or is it? The passengers were strolling along the waterfront. I was transformed into bedlam… observed some of them going into a restaurant, asking to use the wash- room. None of them sat down for a meal or bought a drink. A chat with the management confirmed this observation: “This goes on all the time; they don’t even buy a Coke!” Of course not, why should they? Their food is served on board and included in the fare. Drinks are cheaper on the Barring a few exceptionsexceptions, the cruiseship passengers are not the ship, duty-free. wealthy tourists who spend money locally. They come on a tour because I set a course for Mayreau and my companions and I were looking for- it is cheap, prepaid, all-inclusive. In the meantime, they drive away the ward to anchoring in Saline Bay, for a stroll on the beautiful beach and a tourists who matter to the islands: the cruising sailors, the tourists who climb up the hill to the church for a view of the Tobago Cays and then stay in local hotels and guesthouses, and those who charter yachts from lunch at one of the newly established restaurants. Perhaps a dip in the bay local companies. before dinner. I would like to know what happens to the garbage that the cruiseships Our arrival was witnessed by the passengers of another cruise ship. The generate. The hundreds of people onboard must produce vast amounts. ship rode at anchor while the beach was covered with bodies from the dock What is the impact of a 2,000-pound navy anchor with chain being at one end to the rocky outcrop at the other. Our stroll on the beach would dumped and dragged over the sea bottom, damaging the coral and reefs of have to wait. “That’s all right,” I apologized to my friends, “The ship will be a once-pristine bay? gone tonight; tomorrow the beach will be empty.” No, the islands haven’t changed. They are still here, as beautiful as ever. We went ashore and climbed the hill to have lunch at Dennis’s Hideaway But how will the inhabitants cope when the beaches are littered, the reefs — no sign of cruiseship passengers there. Nor in any of the other eating are damaged, the solitude has disappeared — and with it, the hotel establishments. From the bar at Dennis’s we watched the other dozen or guests, the yachties and charter clientele who contribute heavily to the so yachts which had been anchored in the bay pull up anchor in search of local economy? other, more secluded places. I suggested to the bartender that the pres- ence of the cruiseships might aid his business. He commented; “No mon, Sailor and marine surveyor Jan de Groot is the author of No Shoes dey never climb de mountain.” Allowed, Gone to Come Back, and The Riddle of the . Based in The next morning, early, I was awakened by the sound of the siren of a Canada, he operated the charter yacht Ring Andersen in the Caribbean in large vessel. I went up on deck to investigate. The sight that unfolded the 1970s and returns to sail here from time to time.

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Cheapest prices in the Grenadines Unobstructed dock in calm water 16-18 feet of water alongside ● New environmentally friendly haulout Suitable for Large Power Yachts ● 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV ● Water ● Do it yourself or labour available Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar ● Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] Mini - Marina VHF: 16 [email protected] ● Chandlery www.carriacouboatyard.com MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 before youencountered. actual experienceistounderstandwhattheperson and data-basing.Thenextbestthingtohavingan areas aswell.Todaywecallthisprocessresearch and anchorages,whattoexpectinmanyother what youcanexpectinthewayofgeography,harbors text ofwhatyoucanexpectwhengetthere— of howtonavigatearrivetherebutalsointhecon- review whereyouplantogo,notjustinthecontext often overlookedorlookedatsuperficially.Youmust and crewreadybutalsoincludessomethingthatis to planthetrip.Planningincludesgettingboat and understandwhatwewillencounter. an actualpersonasaguide.Guideshelpusfocuson and theresultwasabookthatwouldserveinplaceof individuals wrotedownwhattheyknewaboutanarea from oneplacetoanother.Astimewentby,many gin intheformofindividualswhowouldleadsomeone often usedarecruisingguides.Guideshavetheirori- gather goodinformation.Oneofthemostfocusedand the areasthatwewillcruise.Therearemanywaysto category weneedtoincludegoodinformationabout good dinghyandmuchmore.Underthe“muchmore” aboard acruisingboat:goodsails,engine, If youaretogetthemostoutofyourtriphave There aremanythingsthathelpfultohave Once UponaGoodGuide push yourvesseltoport.”Thereasonforthistypeof allow forcurrentwhichcanrunat1knotandwill take youthroughthemiddleofreefprovided the churchandtalltreetorightofit.Thiswill turn tostarboarduntilyoulineupwiththeredroofof intersect rednunsuchandatwhichpointyou heading ofsuchanddegreesmagneticuntilyou tion thatwouldreadsomethinglikethis,“Followa intersect orvectorswouldbedrawnfollowedbyacap- entry toaharbororanchorage.Sometimeslinesof navigational aidsthatthecruisercouldusetogain placed onsmallhand-drawnsketchesthatprovided given area.Manytimesagreatdealofeffortwas out varioushazardsthatcouldbeencounteredina anchorages. Greatcarewastakentoexplainandpoint area aswellanoverviewofthevariousharborsand Most oftheearlyguidescoveredabriefhistory began writingguidesfortheareastheycruisedin. the 1950sand’60s,anumberof“cruiserauthors” much asyoucanabouttheplacewillvisit. get themostoutofthattimeandeffortbyknowingas cruise toadestination.Itisverymuchinyourinterest area. Youhavespentagreatdealoftimeandeffortto guide helpsyoumaximizethequalityofyourtimeinan ally saveyourlifeandboat.Additionallyagood guides. Thisisapoorstrategyasgoodguidecouldliter- cruisers willlooktosavemoneyandavoidbuyinggood you cangaininsightfromtheirexperience.Manytimes familiar withtheareayouwillvisitandbyreadingthem also cruisingguidesthatarewrittenbythose world. Theseareatypeofguidesformariners.There Agency publishSailingDirectionsformanyareasofthe ing foratrip. cruising guidesallgotothedetailsincludedinprepar- studying chartsandweatherpatterns,reading guides withthe‘readingsailor’illustrationabove style. Theauthoridentifieshisownself-published Caribbean cruisingguidesvaryincontent,formatand As cruisingonsmallboatsbecamemorepopularin TheBritishAdmiraltyandtheUSGeospatialIntelligence Reviewing blogsofthosethathavegonebeforeyou, CARIBBEAN VOYAGING by FrankVirgintino was DonStreet.Hisseminal and followthe“videogame”chartsintoananchorage. tronic charts,butoftentimesweforgettheadmonition navigating andthatoneshouldnotrelysolelyonelec- constant refrainthatonemustuseone’seyeswhen little redboatontheirchartplotterscreen.Thereisthe many boatssteerintoananchoragebywatchingtheir advent ofGPSandtheaccuracythatitprovides,today boats becamemuchmoresophisticatedand,withthe and, ifwellequipped,adepthfinderaswell. with onlyapaperchartandparallelrulerpencil detail wasthatmostcruisers,attime,navigated written numerousbookssince,withthelatest— Lesser Antilles —Continuedonnextpage “whats andhows”ofeachplace. and knowledgeoftheseaheundertakestoclarify to enteraharbororanchorage.Withhisexperience how mucheffortandtimeheputsintodiscussing just lastyear.Toreadoneofhisguidesistorealize Cruising GuidetotheCapeVerdeIslands In theCaribbean,oneofearliestguidewriters As timepassed,navigationalaidsonsmallcruising was publishedin1966,andhehas A

Cruising Guidetothe — published A MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 If you are going to cruise, prepare your boat, prepare Frank Virgintino is author of a number of cruising All guides are not the same, as authors have dif- not the same, as authors All guides are over many years and many sea miles — something over many years and many sea miles — something to read and consider as you move along your journey and adventure. your crew and also prepare your information base by obtaining guides for the areas that you will visit. If there is more than one guide for an area, buy as many of them as your budget will allow. Blogs alone will not give you a sufficient frame of reference. To truly appre- ciate where you will go and to know the ins and outs of the various ports of call you will visit, take along a guide — better yet, take along a number of guides and let them “speak to you” as would friends with a great deal of experience. Take the time to look at least “once upon a good guide.” guides in the Caribbean that can be reviewed at www. freecruising guide.com. make the subject matter clear and concise and to pro- matter clear and concise make the subject information. vide relevant Each author and varying viewpoints. ferent styles and what concept of what to include has a different and must be the rocks do not move to exclude. While amount of there is a tremendous accounted for, the basics. scope of a guide beyond latitude in the must of cover everything. All guides No one can bring a the subject matter. Authors necessity edit to their guides and wealth of cruising experience as the foundation of the that information serves information there is that guide. Beyond the basic author provides out of something extra that each that has taken place their own personal experience Essentially, guides have grown from a navigational Some cruising sailors have indicated that they Becoming more widely informative as well as increasingly numerous over the years, cruising guides have allowed more sailors to venture farther with less anxiety charter boats also carry the current year’s cruising charter boats also carry the current year’s cruising guide as part of the equipment list as well. aid that was largely meant to help avoid contact with such objects as rocks and reefs to databases that are meant to encourage contacts with Immigration author- ities, repair facilities, restaurants, etcetera. believe they can get along without a guide because of the many cruising blogs that are available through the internet. That raises the question as to what the differ- ence between blogs and guides may be. A guide pro- vides information that is underwritten by experience and knowledge of the subject area. A blog is a review and interchange of a variety of opinions. While many blogs contain excellent information, it takes a great deal of weeding out to distinguish between good infor- mation and pure blather. Good guides are focused on the subject matter in question. Their purpose is to sailors with an immense amount of information to to an immense amount of information sailors with hard to needs. And most have worked support those guides have up to date. Their keep their guides to venture and more cruising sailors allowed more bareboat with less anxiety. Most farther and farther ) and ) and A Cruising A Cruising , published , published Continued from previous page Continued from With similar emphasis on sailing and navigation, navigation, emphasis on sailing and With similar He also adds the personal anecdotes and unbiased the personal anecdotes and He also adds to a har- equipment made approaches As navigating Cruising Ports - the Central American Route much more. Don Street says that a guide does not much more. Don Street says that a guide does not need to be updated very often because “the rocks do not move”. This is a true statement; however some cruisers want more information and do not necessar- ily want to go seek it out on their own. As a result, a new generation of guide authors began to offer their viewpoints. Over the last 20 years or so such names as Nancy and Simon Scott (guides to the Virgin Islands), Chris Doyle (Leewards, Windwards, Trinidad & Tobago, etcetera), Steve Pavilidis (Puerto Rico, Bahamas, Northwest Caribbean, etcetera), Pat Rains ( Freya Rauscher (Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Freya Rauscher (Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast), Tom and Nancy Zydler and Eric Bauhaus (Panama) and many others have provided cruising another early and iconic cruising guide was Jerrems was Jerrems and iconic cruising guide another early Stone’s comprehensive Hart and William and the Bahamas Guide to the Caribbean clear judgment that makes his guides so exceptional. that makes his guides so clear judgment provides special insights. His frame of reference a new generation of guide bor or anchorage simpler, that addressed additional writers introduced guides added and expanded over needs of cruisers. What was facilities, including the early guides were shoreside information about hospi- repair facilities, as well as car rental agencies and tals, restaurants, airports, — in 1976. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41

for Pilar Pilar I said . Pilar . Hemingway’s for the best part of and aboard but about a symbolic Pilar . His trump cards are his finca Pilar The Old Man and the Sea Hemingway in the Gulf Stream that opened up in the Gulf Stream that to fish seem to have been the early years, Pilar is not only about Pilar Hemingway’s Boat reflect her owner? Yes. Do we, because of her, learn anything about reflect her owner? Yes. Do we, because of her, learn Pilar . It is not boating but fishing that is what Hendrickson calls “the supreme out- . It is not boating but fishing that is what Hendrickson After disclaiming the book as a biography of either the man or the boat Hendrickson a biography of either the man or the boat Hendrickson After disclaiming the book as by basing his narrative around the boat he could learn Hendrickson thought that part, and determine its The interviews are what drive the narrative for the most While the stories of Samuelson and especially Houk are perhaps the best part of While the stories of Samuelson and especially Houk Hemingway’s peak years for using Did states, “My aim, rather, is to try to lock together the words ‘Hemingway’ and ‘boat’ to try to lock together the words ‘Hemingway’ and ‘boat’ states, “My aim, rather, is and and equally American words ‘DiMaggio’ in the same way that the locked-together its will quickly mean something …” The book takes ‘bat,’ or ‘Satchmo’ and ‘horn’ to of Hemingway’s ownership of the boat from 1934 linear structure from the years plenty of them. 1961, with digressions and he that had eluded himself and others. For example, things about Hemingway aboard speculates that it was fishing sentences, allowing them length and subordinate Hemingway’s short declarative a Hendrickson’s purpose is to present the reader with clauses. At the same time, better than his reputation, and specifically better than portrait of a man who was 1985 biography, portrayed in Jeffrey Meyers’ It is alive who were connected to the man and the boat. interviews with those still us his journalist’s meditation on Hemingway, fishing, with this formula that he gives twisted, sad story of Hemingway’s third son. the price of fame, and the terrible, aspiring writer named Arnold scope. The first set concerns an overlooked 22-year-old on Samuelson who worked as a deckhand for a dollar a day that was published a year, 1934-35, and wrote a small book about his experience the one who saw the book into posthumously. The interviews are with his daughter, foreign service officer in print. The second set are with Walter Houk, an American his girlfriend, who worked Havana, who got to spend time with Hemingway after 1949-51, Houk and Nita part-time for the writer, introduced them. Over two years, the enjoyed Hemingway’s hospitality in Cuba ashore at five big beds, damned roomy and a wonderful fishing machine.” Hemingway always and a wonderful fishing machine.” Hemingway always five big beds, damned roomy him the boat, and the hand was usually on board with had a paid hand to look after in Gutiérrez, who gave Hemingway the true story as mate. It was the first, Carlos he wrote in 1951, 1936 that became the novella half-a-dozen day trips fishing. Houk left the foreign service and became a magazine half-a-dozen day trips fishing. Houk left the foreign service book and several journalist in . Late in his life he wrote an unpublished and Houk argue for an under- published articles about Hemingway. Both Samuelson standing of Hemingway as a good and generous man. interviews with him for last. the book, Hendrickson saves the third son and his but also the most troubled. Gregory Hemingway was the brightest of the three sons Despite fathering six children Like the others, he grew up under his father’s shadow. a cross-dressing, bi-polar, in four marriages, and despite being a physician, he was in 1995, at the age of 63, had probably schizophrenic, embittered, vengeful man who homeless in a Miami jail in a sex change operation and became a woman. She died life, convinced of the 2001. Hendrickson obsessively chronicles this sad spectacular truth of his conjectures relating father and son. 1942 and winter 1944, 1934-38, out of Bimini and Havana. Between November disguised as a scientific boat was converted by Hemingway into an armed patrol boat He continued to fish in to lure U-boats to the surface but nothing came of it. at a time, going especially to and he did cruise along the Cuban coast for weeks on the boat. Hemingway was Parasía Key, an uninhabited island, and he did write on July 25th, 1960 last aboard her on May 19th, 1960. He left Cuba for good at the outset that 2nd, 1961. boat — well, he shot himself in Ketchum, Idaho, July rather than the boating. Hemingway? Most of what we learn is because of the fishing been named The book, in so far as a literal title goes, would better have Rod door Hemingway manly value.” Sons of Sons of was sea- , by Paul , by Paul and Pilar , a sport fisher- reporter turned Pilar . BOOK REVIEW BY RICHARD DEY BY RICHARD BOOK REVIEW The Living and the Dead: This is less a book about a man This is less a book about a Paul Hendrickson is a Hemingway’s Boat Hendrickson. Alfred A. Knopf, Knopf, Hendrickson. Alfred A. ©2011. Hardcover, ISBN 978-1-4000-4162-6. about and his boat than it is some of the people who accompa- nied the man, Ernest Hemingway, on his boat, man. The latest in an unending stream of books about the famous aficio- writer, this one is for the of nado fascinated by the parts salt- Hemingway that were the The water fisherman and father. reader will get some vicarious the fishing in and learn about game boat but the author is after bigger than a mere blue in and to that end he hauls Hemingway’s third son along with a letter of condolence to friends about their lost son and in doing so he tries to present the boat not only as a platform but a symbol. Washington Post University of Pennsylvania writing instructor. His non-fiction books include Robert McNamara and Five Lives of a Lost War, Mississippi: A Story of Race and Its Legacy A Journalist’s Meditation Journalist’s A up in a letter: “Comfortable to live on board, big galley, up in a letter: “Comfortable to live on board, big galley, Pilar Hemingway summed Right from the start Hendrickson’s sense of boats and his use of the boating idiom Right from the start Hendrickson’s sense of boats and a stock wooden motorboat The boat itself is a Wheeler twin-cabin Playmate, [email protected] www.marigotbeachclub.com [email protected] reveals a landlubber. “There’s a term old boatmen sometimes use to describe a reas- reveals a landlubber. “There’s a term old boatmen sometimes writer who knew suring boat in a heaving ocean: ‘sea-kindly.’” No contemporary than that anything about boats would have to say anything other Yard in Brooklyn, New York. ordered in 1934 by Hemingway and built at the Wheeler bottom, she drew three Thirty-eight feet overall, with a 12-foot beam, and a semi-V say apparently, because at no feet, six inches. She was apparently copper riveted. I get what the planks or frames point does the author say so precisely. Neither do we cabin sides are mahogany. are made of — possibly fir, presumably on oak. Her 300 gallons of fuel, a lowered Alterations included installation of four tanks to hold chair were added in Key , and a wet well for fish. Outriggers and a fighting bridge built. Powered by a West and three years later Hemingway had a flying and a four-cylinder, 40 Chrysler 75-horse reduction gear engine for cruising at 16 knots but normally horsepower Lycoming motor for trolling, she could cruise after a shrine in Spain that ran at about ten. She was named, Hendrickson writes, the Pillar, which he’d seen at commemorates Nuestra Señora del Pilar, Our Lady of the bullfights in Saragossa in 1926. kindly. Nor would they use “prow” instead of bow. Such usage permeates the book. kindly. Nor would they use “prow” instead of bow. Such of the sport suffuses what Hendrickson is however a fly fisherman and his knowledge he writes about Hemingway’s fishing technique and equipment. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 of themonth. temptation tojustnapinthehammockfor therest before the20thinspiteoflowenergy andthe things willreturntonormalinApril. what energyyouhavetofinancialmatters and romantic enthusiasmafterthe5th,butdevote distract you. marina billsbeforethe6thandfindagoodbookto one untilthe14thofnextmonth.Settleallyour Mars beinginretrograde,whichisaffectingevery- of themonth. and you’llcomeoutintofairweatherfortherest the occasionalchoppyseasinfirsttwoweeks Just engageyoursenseofhumortosailthrough er andmisunderstandings. you, andthiscouldcauseallsortsofroughweath- is concerned.YouhaveVenusinTaurus,opposite cane holetohideoutinasfaryourpersonallife arise andtherestwillworkitselfout. energies onwhatboat-businessprospectsmay could loseitswayinthefirstweek.Expendyour your lifewilljustmeetwithflukywinds. duce anythingmeaningfulintheotheraspectsof let therestofworldsailby.Attemptstopro- a seaanchorandwaitthemout. will improvethesituation.Justfurlyoursails,set the courseofromance,andnoamounttacking jobs onboardcompleted. winds. Timetousethisaspectgetafewspecial but inventivenesswillhavesunnyskiesandfair by thentotakeadvantageofit. breeze inthelastweeksotrytogetbackoncourse boat-business possibilitiesthatwillcatchabitof flesh whiletheylast. sionate andlovingself.Enjoythepleasuresof spinnaker, even—andstimulateyourmostpas- the month. static inbusinesscommunicationsneartheendof make themostofit.Youmayexperiencesome Mercury goesretrogradeinAriesonthe6thso have inspirationgaloreforthefirstweek,but Try tocompleteanycreativeprojectson board You couldexperienceanebbingtideinyour That lazyfeelingyou’reexperiencingiscausedby This monthshowspotentialtobeafunone. This maybeagoodmonthtojustfindhurri- Communications willbegarbledandtheGPS Concentrate onenjoyinganewloveinterestand There willbeheadwindsinyourlovelifetoslow Business andfinancearestillinthedoldrums Your energylevelswillbeluffingbutthereare This month,romancewillbeunderfullsail— Your creativewindswillbeblowingandyou’ll MARCH 2012 SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

—NanHatch Replace thisavarice withremorse! Forgive usLord, pleasechangethiscourse To winds, togreed, todrugs, toruin! Be angered toseeHisgiftsstrewn Us tomind, andinHisHeaven Of thebeautyGodhasgiven For whattomeisprostitution Surely we’ll seeretribution, only tocondemn. Serving In theendhelpusorthem, Red tape, rudeness, crooks willneither From visitingourislandseither, To friendsabroad, whothenabstain When they’re rippedoff, they willcomplain Of cash, butsailboatswon’t comeback. Intent onbuildinguphisstack By ne’er-do-wells, orjustsomeman If it’s legalorsomescam You don’t know whenyou’re paying him Another whack, well itgetsgrim, And pay tosomesmallroving boat But thenobligedtotiefloats Well, thissoundsfair—atleasttome, they chargeacruisingfee, In port This protects non-existentreef? Then broadcast thatit’s theirbelief To anchorever-larger boats, Our turquoise bays pock-marked by floats, What have they donetomy islands?Dothey really thinkwe need What have they donetomy islandswiththeirpolitics, drugsandgreed? THEY jerry king The seayouloveandenjoy,sopleasekeepitclean,protectit. Stop thepollution,stopit! I repeat,protectmarinelife. Protect marinelife. Please desistfromdestroyingmyfriendsandfamily. Please desistfromdumpingyourgarbageinthesea. Why areyousokeenontakingmylife?” You pollutethewater;youdestroy marinelife— You gofishingandscubadiving, yetyoutrytodestroyme. You picnicandhavebeachparties, You runupanddowninthesummer heat, She says,“You andyourpeople cometothebeachhavefun. I givethemallthattheydesire,yetaremeantome.” They trytodestroyme. Your familyandfriendstheydisrespect me— Speaking intomyheartshesays,“Pleaseprotectme. She wrapsherhandsaroundmybody; As IadmireGod’s creationthegoddessofseaspeakstome. Yet myeyesarecaptivatedby thesparklingbluesea. My earsgodeaf,Ihearnosound. Every timeIgotothebeachmybodygoesnumb, Seducing mybody. She callsmyname,enticingme, of the Sea The Goddess

— DillonOllivierre

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MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 of the

FIGURE 3 , upper edge The Why Book of Sailing New Services:

AIR AMBULANCE NEW JET ADDED TO THE FLEET! THE TO ADDED JET NEW FLIGHTS TO & FROM ST. LUCIA LUCIA & FROM ST. TO FLIGHTS Other Equinox Happenings The sun rises due east and sets due west. Easter The equinox allows you to calculate when Christian The ‘Burning of the Socks’ tradition in Annapolis, Maryland. spring In Lanark, Scotland they celebrate the coming of To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck very “Twinkle, twinkle little star…” My granddaughter is Scott Welty is the author of is: it’s the first Sunday after the first full moon after the the is: it’s the first Sunday after the first full moon after vernal equinox. weather Boatyard workers celebrate the coming of warming are not and more boat business by burning their socks. Socks worn again until the fall equinox. church with Whuppity Scoorie. Children gather outside the On and when the sun comes up they race around the church. by the the third lap they collect up coins tossed to them is locals. Surprising to find a Scotsman throwing coins about, it not? a good fond of singing this traditional little ditty. This is in month for observing a really pretty twinkling star: Canopus south the constellation Carina. Canopus is just about due degrees around 2000 hours. It’s low in the sky (about 25 AND above the horizon), very bright, and you’ll see twinkling twinkles lots of colors. Look at it through your Steiners. It through because of all the atmosphere the light has to pass of lay- when coming in low to the horizon. Subtle movements time so ers of the atmosphere cause the bending to change in col- we see the star ‘twinkle’. The colors are because different ors are bent different amounts, just like what happens with a rainbow or a prism. Burford Books, ©2007.

FIGURE 4 So, start your watch when the upper edge of the sun peeks over the eastern hori- So, start your watch when night? The more formal So, why isn’t the 10th the equinox if equinox means equal Spring (Vernal) Equinox Spring (Vernal) on the planet is the day when everyone means ‘equal night’. This Equinox literally March 20th, Notice that on the equinox, US Naval Observatory. This is from the refer to the times when the Sunrise and sunset conventionally disk of the sun is on the horizon. Do the upper edge disappears below the western horizon. zon and then stop it when its to be extra time in there for the sun to move through you see that there is going words, the sun moves through more than 180 degrees own diameter to set? In other There are other factors as well, because of the bending between sunrise and sunset. earth is spinning AND going of the sunlight by the atmosphere and the fact that the around the sun. sun crosses the equator on astronomical definition of the vernal equinox is when the when that happens on the its way to more northerly altitudes. There is a moment 20th this month. (all seven billion of us!) has 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness… or do daylight and 12 hours of of us!) has 12 hours of (all seven billion 4]. at the chart [see Figure we? Take a look But, on the 10th off by seven minutes! and sunset is 1811. That’s sunrise is at 0604 on? sunset at 1810, exactly 12 hours. What’s going you find sunrise at 0610 and This definition from the Navy:

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN by Scott Welty

25th - Jupiter and crescent moon together [see Figure 3] 27th - Venus at maximum eastern elongation (angle from the sun) 8th - Full Moon Virgo) together [see Figure 1] 10th - Moon, Saturn and Spica (the brightest star in 14th - Venus and Jupiter together [see Figure 2] 20th - Spring Equinox (0120 UTC) 22nd - New Moon Sky Events This Month SATURN - A late night visitor rising at 2100 hours (March 1st) and 1900 hours rising at 2100 hours (March 1st) and 1900 hours SATURN - A late night visitor VENUS - Nice and high in the evening western sky all month. VENUS - Nice and high in smoking. EARTH - Still trying to quit evening to late afternoon all month and riding in Leo. MARS - Rising in the early sky planet. Setting between 2200 hours JUPITER - Another evening/western The Planets in March 2012 being east of the sun early in the month (look MERCURY - Does the old switcheroo,

March 2012 March The Sky in in Sky The (March 31st), riding in Virgo. (March 1st) and 2030 hours (March 31st), riding in Aries. (March 1st) and 2030 hours at sunset) and west of the sun late in the month (look in the morning). at sunset) and west of the MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 are accepted. for restaurants, hotels, villasorsimply toenjoy athome Provisioning for yachtcharters, largeorsmallorders multi grainbreads, croissants, etc. lamb, steaks, frozen bread suchasbaguettes, petitpain, Seafood, , prawns, smoked &fresh salmon, fish, exotic meats, salami, turkey, prosciutto, juices, etc. We cheese, offer anexcellentselectionofimported Fine Wine,Cheeses,FreshFruits, Vegetables&ChoiceMeats M

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M UUSTIQUE OOREA Your #1 Choice forProvisioning intheGrenadines S T Monday-Saturday: 8amto 12pm & 3pmto6pm I R Q Sunday &PublicHolidays:9amto 11am U E E A ‘ S F F OOODSTORE O • Fax:4565230 • 4888634 • 4888479 • 4526620 • Phone:4526621 CALLIAQUA, ST. VINCENT Tel: 456-2983orFax: 456-2987 [email protected] WE ARE SITUATED IN Ocar, Downstairs Coco’s D ALSO INBEQUIA or you cancallusat Tel: 458-3485 S T O R

E delicious chips prepare breadfruitfor Above: Florianshowingushowto I wishwecouldstayforseveralweeksand cookmoreDominicanmealswithFlorian. cocoa tea.ThemealisdeliciousandMartin tellsusaboutfuturecookinglessonsand eight ofusarebusyhelpingoutandsuddenly amealcomestogether. aroma thatwaftsfromthecocoateaischocolaty andspicy. are addedtoachievetheproperconsistency andthepotissetasidetocoolabit.The last nightbygratingacoconutandsqueezing thejuicefromfiber.Milkandwater be addedtothesaltcodthatwassoaked lastnighttoremovesomeofthesalt. sautéed. Thesautéedonions,garlic,curry, lation forthethreeFrenchcruisers. washing ortendingthefire.AsFloriandirectsus,Martinkeepsupaconstanttrans- longer observers. Florian tellsusabouteachspiceandingredientsoonwefindthatare no and ispreparedintothelittlecigar-likelogsthatwejustboughtinmarket. nutmeg, freshcinnamonsticksandgratedgingerroot.Thecocoaisfromlocaltrees begins. Thenwepitchinandhelpcutuponionsgarlicforthesaltfish. breadfruit quartersareputintoboilingwatertoparboilandthesaladpreparation washing itwell.Sheismeticulousaboutthevegetablesandhands. The most preparationisonsite.Florianstartsbycuttingthebreadfruitintoquarters and coal pots(charcoalburners)and tea”. Thefoodwillbepreparedon breadfruit chips,saladand“cocoa and jungleflowers. table setwithawhitetablecloth where Floriangreetsuswitha to thePurpleTurtlerestaurant Area YachtSecurity)buildingnext learn moreaboutDominicaandthelocalfoodstraditionalDominicanmeals. This isthefirstofanewlylaunchedprogrambyMartinandFloriantohelpvisitors a shoppinglistthatwillsoonturnintotraditionalmealcookedbyhiswife,Florian. ket pointingoutvegetablesandspicesthathethinksmightbenewtous.Martinhas of The foodislocalandfreshfromtherichvolcanicsoilofDominica.MartinCarriere DOMINICA At 8:00 We pull up chairs and devour our lunch of saltfish, salad, breadfruit chips and rich We pullupchairsanddevourourlunch of saltfish,salad,breadfruitchipsandrich The saltfishnowreceivestheseasoningand thebreadfruitchipsarestillfrying.All The cocoateaissimmeringwiththespices andfreshcoconutmilkthatwasmade The breadfruitistakenoutofthepottocoolandseasoningforsaltfish is At thispointalotisgoingonandthecruisersarealllendinghandchopping, A secondkettleisputonthefireandcocoafrommarketaddedwithabit of Today’s menuwillbesaltfish, After ourvisittothemarket,eightofuscruisersmeetatnewPAYS(Portsmouth Providence TASTING AM — onewehelpedmake! onaSaturdaymorningthemarketinPortsmouth,Dominicaisbustling. Right: Timetotuckinto a traditionallocalmeal watertaxiwalkswithmyhusband,Hunter,andmethroughthemar- by DeviSharp sive (chives)andabitofwhitepepperwill MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 : The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Compass … and more! Grenada’s 2012 Swallowed You? Has Your Anchor Read in Next Work Boat Regatta Month’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s lightly but-

From a few common ingredients, you can create presentation pizzazz for your next potluck party or cockpit canapés by Ross Mavis Compass. 2 slices white sandwich bread, crusts removed 2 slices brown sandwich bread, crusts removed 1 six-ounce tin salmon or tuna 3 Tablespoons (45 mL) mayonnaise 1 Tablespoon (15 mL) finely diced onion 1 teaspoon (5 mL) lemon juice salt and pepper to taste Drain fish and mix with all other ingredients except Carefully cut this loaf into four even slices. Spread You will see from the end of the stack that a check- The Earl would be so proud. We know we promised it for March, but Checkerboards The most difficult part in making this sandwich is 2 slices white sandwich bread, crusts removed 2 slices white sandwich bread, crusts removed 2 slices brown sandwich bread, 4 slices cooked ham spread 1/3 Cup (75 mL) soft cheese fresh parsley 1/4 Cup (50 mL) chopped stuffed olives or dill pickle strips Use either a rolling pin or wine bottle, roll out the provide the checkerboard shape when cut for serving. bread. Alternately using the white and brown bread, butter all slices on both sides except what will be the top and bottom pieces of a stack. Spread some salmon mixture on one side of each slice and stack slices one on top of the other. each one of these newly formed slices with butter and salmon mixture as well and alternate them as you stack them. Be sure that a brown strip of bread is adjacent to a white strip and that the strips all run in the same direction. erboard pattern has been obtained. Wrap this loaf securely and chill until ready to cut and serve. Each checkerboard sandwich will stay together when served if buttered properly and well chilled. Pomegranates in Paradise will appear in next month’s issue of ter one side of each bread slice and spread with soft ter one side of each bread slice and spread with soft cheese mixture. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and put row of well-drained olives or a pickle strip at one end of each slice of bread. Lay ham slice from the edge of the olives or pickles over the rest of the bread slice and trim if necessary. Roll bread slice up from olive or pickle end, forming a fairly tight roll. Wrap each roll in a clean damp cloth or tea towel and refrigerate for about an hour. Remove cloth and, using a sharp knife, cut roll into dainty pinwheel slices. remembering how the pieces of bread are assembled to kept chilled until just prior to serving. Mix and match kept chilled until just prior tastes but also differ- fillings to give not only different ent and exciting eye appeal. bread slices to flatten them slightly. Then Good Good for Enough an Earl Pinwheels As for all finger sandwiches, the outside crusts are It’s the fancy sandwich section that Willa and I turn Of the several hundred cookbooks my wife Willa Of the several hundred cookbooks my wife Willa Sandwiches can be savoury or sweet. They can be Golden arches around the world attest to the billions Like almost every other food we eat today, the lowly Like almost every other food carefully trimmed from bread slices before assembling. Softened butter is the best spread to use. Sandwiches should be wrapped to stop them from drying out and to for our afternoon deck parties. Pinwheels, mosaics, checkerboards, rolls, pyramids and ribbons have tempted tasters over the past 70 or 80 years. Presentation turns common ingredients into a “wow”. Here is a sampling of some I encourage you to try. and I admit to having, one very old one devotes and I admit to having, one very old one devotes more than 30 pages to sandwiches alone. Many are excellent but I don’t think I’ll be tempted to try the “Liver and Raisin”. My father’s favourite sand- wich of cold baked beans is even listed in this cookbook. Brown bread spread lightly with butter and a filling of mashed baked beans and pickle kept my dad nourished while he climbed telephone poles as a lineman. full meals, as in the hero, submarine, hoagie, poor boy or whatever else you may want to call the entire-loaf kind. Sandwiches can even be desserts made of ice cream and sweet biscuits or wafers. And of course to complete the circle, this commonplace workers’ fare can also entertain royalty when shaped and filled as finger-sandwiches for tea. of hamburger sandwiches served by McDonald’s of hamburger sandwiches served by McDonald’s alone. To that incredible number must be added the countless hotdogs sold at sporting events and the legion of sandwiches consumed daily, on and off shore. The original blueprint for basic sandwich con- struction remains much the same today. An edible filling or centre is sandwiched between two or more pieces (or sometimes just one continuous piece) of bread-like material. The main purpose of the bread wrapping is to allow the total package to be held by, and consumed from, the hand. It’s the perfect passage or picnic food. sandwich has come full circle in its development and sandwich has come full circle out of the need for an enjoyment by consumers. Born could be eaten without easily consumed meal that primary constant is going to the galley, the sandwich’s of hand. Gambler John that it is always eaten out is credited with the food’s Montagu, Earl of Sandwich, so he wouldn’t lose development and name — invented time away from the gaming table. Although this fact can’t be confirmed, I’m certain the Earl, or whoever deserves the credit, had no idea how popular this food would become. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, McIntyre Bros.Ltd. TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL email: [email protected] PHONE: (473)4443944/1555 Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Duty-Free EnginesforYachts FAX: (473)4442899 Parts -RepairsService Dear Dear Sacramento, California Marika Ravula Thanks, States Iwouldlovetomeettheminperson. you knowanyoneinthefamilywholiveshere ily inperson.IliveSacramento,California,now.If death. IwassoeagertoseeMr.Caldwellandhisfam- my dadwaseagertohelphim. some ofthemsaidthathewasaghost.Hehehe!But white mantheysaw.Atfirstwerescaredofhim; for Mr.Caldwell.Healwayssaidthathewasthefirst Every timewesatatthetabletoeathealwaysprayed him andtookcareofuntilhewaswellagain. island andtookhimhome,gaveawarmbath,fed found Mr.Caldwellandhisshipwreckedvesselonour in theFijiislands. name isMarikaRavula.I’mfromtheislandofTuvutha been tryingtogetaholdofhimandhisfamily.My away thatyear.Istartedtohavetearsbecause Caldwell ofPalmIslandintheGrenadineswhopassed caribbeancompass.com/caldwell.htm), aboutMr.John December 1998issueof something ofthejoysregionand the pleasures ple andyetstillfullofbeauty,theywillhave discovered Chain, wherethingsarerelativelycontained andsim- encourage theminthesmallworldofmy Caribbean to Trinidad.Whatashameiftheyweren’t. IfIcan to beundauntedbythe90-milecrossing from Grenada the Virgins.Whatashameiftheydidn’t. Iwantthem get here.Iwanttoencouragethemcome southof three weeksoffshoretocross3,000miles ofoceanto than theEuropeans,sincetheyhaven’t had tospend be moretentativeandinneedofencouragement rather thanayearhere.Second,Americansailorsmay enjoyment andslowthemdownintospendingadecade So Ihopetogetthemupspeedforgreatersailing to knowtheplacebeforetheyleaveit.Whatashame. the LesserAntilles,orspendenoughtimeheretocome .Theyoftendon’tplantovisitmorethan often justhereaspartofaquicktriparoundthe for severalseriousreasons.First,Europeansailorsare Antilles (ChapterOne).Thisfocuswasverydeliberate set ofislandswithinbutnotencompassingtheLesser Introduction) andexplicitlysayingIwasdealingwitha specifying theareaas“theCaribbeanChain”(in on tomyownparticularfocusin Lesser Antillesis. people, someofwhommaynotyetknowwherethe it anotherway,hasdifferentmeaningsfor you thattheCaribbeanisoftenmis-defined.Or,toput definitive sourceofobjectivetruthsItotallyagreewith have moredoubtsthanyouaboutWikipediaasa Lesser Antilles.Youareright,Frank,andalthoughI Caribbean inthetitlesinceareacoveredisonly written, buthetakesexceptiontohavingtheword Caribbean Passagemaking ed formis-definingtheCaribbean. why Fattyisintherebuttherestofusarebeingberat- own nameonFrank’slistofbacksliders.I’mnotsure change thatname!)MarineAssociation,whenIsawmy less) Columbus,nottomentiontheCaribbean(better cruising) Street,Christopher(AdmiraloftheSeas,no taking totaskFattyGoodlander,Don(deanofCaribbean mudgeonly humourinhisletterOctober’s with agreementandsmilingpleasureathiscur- 2011 issueof Passagemaking: ACruiser’sGuide review ofthesecondeditionmy should havebeenforewarnedofhisirewhenIreadyour FFORUM RREADERS' My [email protected]. I justfeltsadaboutreadingthearticlehis I remembermydadusedtotellusstoriesofwhenhe I readanarticlebyRichardDeyonline,fromthe I triedtomakesureanyreaderwasalertedveryearly Frank iskindenoughtosayhehasreadmybook As ever,FrankVirgintinomakesgoodreadingandI O Compass Compass E R A U D Caribbean Compass , , M E R S andtosaythatitiswell Caribbean Compass '

Caribbean Cruising . There I was, nodding . ThereIwas,nodding in the September in theSeptember Caribbean Compass (www. by

his 40-footJoshuaketch, Trinidad Les Weatheritt wherever intheworldthatmightbe. and independencetosailonfurtheriftheychoose, away fromtheirhomewaterstohonetheself-reliance conditions oftheregionandforthosenewtocruising ideal placeforcruiserstoexperiencethepleasuresand to visitanyoftheGreaterAntilles. coast fromVenezuelathroughtoMexicoorstrikeout continent, justasIsuspectFrankwouldlikethemto make myreadersreadytodothat,andvisithome thinking ofcrossingtheoceantoEurope.I’dlove Epilogue, bereadyforareallybigadventureand cruising guides.Ortheymay,asIsuggestinmybook’s which casetheywillbereadytoreachoutforFrank’s Caribbean CruisingQuadrants,iftheychoose.In cultures toenjoythewiderregionFrankdefinesashis ing skillsandcontactsknowledgeofthelocal of cruisinghere.Nowtheywillbesetupwiththesail- —Continuedonnextpage Adriatic Sea,weknowthattimeisrelative. phone calls.Havingbeenformany years inthe 9:00 main holidayasAustrians,hepromised tocomeat and December2011issuesof Caribbean CoastofColombia”intheOctober,November Dear Sheridan House. Guide toEuropeandBeyond Sheridan House.His lished inEuropebyAdlardColesandtheUSA Caribbean Passagemaking:ACruiser’sGuide Dear S/V Tashtego Constance Elson catching these. ous, theBocaChicaentranceisalwayssafe. conditions maketheentranceatBocaGrandedanger- at BocaChica,(N1019.03,7535.93).Whenhighsurf include awaypointforthemouthofshipchannel point was(N0947.27,W7550.18). was (N1010.90,W7544.29). important! nel shouldbe(N1009.76,W7540.11). (N1215, W7157). The correctvaluesareasfollows. ferrocement ColinArchersloop, a wishonshootingstar. huge wish,andbecauseitwassobigIdoubledwith “What docruiserswantforChristmas?”Itoohada Christmas story! up hopefor2011. gives ustrouble,too,andonlyatimportant moments! time, butwecouldnotmakeit,because ouroutboard for himtolookatourproblem.Emrolwasrighton Martinique. Weekspasseduntilwegotanappointment he alsotakescareofthepowerstationPetite the shaftforsixyears. to getitout.Ithadnowbeenstuckandcorrodedon come withhisweldingequipmenttoheatuptheflange back andaskedamechanic,Emrol,whenhecould to comeback.Ofcourseitwasnotplannedlikethis. Austria. Becauseofmanyreasonsittookustwoyears shaft. Thenwehadtoleave the damnedthingoutbecauseofarustyflangeon here inPetiteMartinique,Grenada.Wecouldnotget Editor’s note:LesWeatherittsailedtheCaribbeanon But softly,softly.MylittleCaribbeanChainisthe Four waypointslistedinmyseries“Cruisingthe Thanks to Also, underCartagena,itwouldhavebeenusefulto • UnderSanBernardoArchipelago:ouranchoring • UnderRosarioArchipelago:ouranchoringpoint • UnderCholon:thelastwaypointinentrychan- • UnderGuajiraPeninsula:PuertoBolivarshouldbe More thantwoyearsago,thegearboxonour43-foot In theDecember2011issuetherewasquestion, Although itiswellafterChristmas,Ihavetotella But then,onthe24thofDecember,which isour The holidayswerecomingcloserandI nearly gave We knewhewasabusymanbecauseisgoodand In thebeginningofNovemberlastyear,wecame AM Compass Compass . At10:00myhusbandstartedtomake tele- S/V DenaliRose Readers, , Atlantic Crossings:ASailor’s Petronella Key ofLife and Compass is alsopublishedby Key ofLife S/V LaSirena , whilehewrote This correctionis andflybackto areincorrect. , gaveup , pub- for MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 s s N.V. ’ e c d i v r r a e S

h s c St. Lucia St. m (758) 458-1505 New address:

o n Effi cient handling Effi Accessible by dinghy t Cel: (599) 556 4967 Yacht Provisioning Fax: (599) 545 2889 Fax: Cell: (758) 484-3170 Tel: (758) 458-1504 Tel: s to all Diesel Engines Fuel Injector Service Brokerage services and a Marine Engineers Parts, Sales and Service Servicing all Gearboxes u l of all your import and export. [email protected] CCustoms Services Suppliers of Donaldson Filters AND WARRANTY WORK Overhauls, Repairs and Service Marine and Industrial Generators BBlanchard’s www.blanchardscustomservices.cbt.cc AUTHORISED DEALERSHIP DIESEL OUTFITTERS Bobby's Marina Airport, Airport Road 32,St. Maarten N. A.

Free Cruising Guides , have been cruising , have been cruising Jakker Readers, , Compass Compass Kalamunda For a year now we, Tony and Jaklien from the For a year now we, Tony and Jaklien from the Entering the cove at the Port Morgan Hotel and the One of them, Kamah, became our guide for a day for One night, returning from dinner at Jean Jean’s, we We missed our two cell phones, an MP3 player, a At half past ten Tony went to look around the anchor- Since there is no police station on the island we went So cruisers, be warned, close and lock every single Nevertheless, we enjoyed our stay in Ile à Vache — Here are two tips for cruisers heading west from the • If you stop in Kralendijk, Bonaire, take a walk The wind picks up and the inevitable happens: the up and the inevitable happens: The wind picks that the whole thing It’s odd that no-one mentions the asking price but Needless to say no-one pays Money for old rope as they say. When in Curaçao we read the Belgian sailing vessel of Frank Virgintino and we decided to stop at wonder- ful Ile à Vache on our way to Jamaica and Cuba. village Caye Coq was exactly as Frank described it. Water as still as in a pond, lush scenery all around and the inevitable boat boys who were persistent but polite. They keep on coming back every day; you have to learn to handle this situation. our trip to Les Cayes. We went to eat at Jean Jean’s twice. We bought lobsters and fruit. found that our boat had been broken into. All hatches were closed, as was the entrance. There was a light in the cockpit. They forced a hatch in the saloon. watch, a small amount of money and a tiny Flip video camera (the size and the looks of a cell phone). age to see if there were other victims. This was not the case. He discovered that the crews of all boats were ashore to dine that night. There was no moon at that time and ours was the only lit boat. It all happened on Friday the 13th of January — bad luck indeed! to ask Monsieur Didier of the hotel what to do. He told us our stuff probably left the island with the first taxi boat early in the morning to be sold in Les Cayes. We asked Jean Jean and Kamah, they promised to look and listen around in the village but when we left four days later we got no reaction whatsoever. hatch and if possible don’t leave your yacht unat- tended at night or have one of the other cruisers keep a watch over all the boats. Everyone on the island tried to convince us this was the very first time a robbery took place. But then, there always has to be a first time. Everyone we spoke to thought it was a shame and not good for their reputation. our stay in the Caribbean as it must have been 50 years ago. Tony and Jaklien S/Y Jakker Dear Eastern Caribbean this year. through the shopping street a block back from the terer and disappear. You may have to wait a week or You may have to wait terer and disappear. there’s payoff but in the meantime so for the big for your a night to compensate always the $50 not too then comes some wind, hopefully patience. But everyone on early evening, as you want much in the the fun down for the night before board to settle much rum, your friends not to drink too begins. Warn settle down needed later, and then just as they’ll be and wait. boat hits the reef. Panic mooring drags and the and offer all sorts of abounds, your friends appear received by the sucker help, at that time gratefully calm down and the (sorry, charterer). When things (or even better, put boat is, hopefully, safely anchored you can charge for!) your on another mooring that satisfaction in the form friends go aboard and demand fee. of some ridiculous ‘salvage’ laid the mooring and that was the fault of the guy who in both civil (financial he should be held responsible and criminal (by endanger- compensation for damage) his actions, but usually ing human life) courts for have no doubt that, even if nothing is said although I aside with a “these things it were, it would be brushed happen” attitude! always encourages early shock and relief at surviving hands and all involved settlement so money changes night’s sleep, safe in the go home to bed for a good comfortable knowledge that there’s many a dollar in everyone’s pocket and when the unfortunate leaves the next day the mooring can be dragged back into position and the pantomime run all over again. Richard Ashton S/Y Dear the Caribbean. waterfront, and find the souvenir shop on the west waterfront, and find the souvenir shop on the west side that sells T-shirts for one US dollar. They hang in racks outside and inside and are rejects from a company in the States. They offer “funny” designs, pictures and inscriptions. Stock up and use them to swap for fish in the out islands of Venezuela, or to swap for food or molas with the Kunas in the San Blas Islands, use them as rags or turn them into fender covers, or wear them yourself. We wish we had bought more of them, because they are cheap and have good uses. —Continued on page 53 S/V and buy a Devi Sharp gave Scale of Rolling at Arctic Tern Compass Arctic Tern , , , , in the February issue, commenting on power Compass Compass Compass Compass Continued from previous page Continued from From here the path is clear. You take EC$50 from This latest idea has the benefit of not only making In these straitened economic times, new business Surely, she stopped too soon. Her scale should have My husband and I, although now house-tied in I just read the letter from Angelika Gruener of In the January edition of More importantly, Mr. Duffy characterizes the AYC More importantly, Mr. Duffy characterizes the AYC I am confused, however, by Antigua resident JohnI am confused, however, by Certainly, AYC has the right to manage the facilities Certainly, AYC has the right I’ve read the concerns and responses regarding the I’ve read the concerns and For more on our adventures visit our websites at For more on our adventures It is hard to find guys like Emrol, but they exist. find guys like Emrol, but It is hard to It really was a difficult job and in the end he charged difficult job and in the end It really was a At noon Emrol, Tiki and Flight showed up and one Tiki and Flight showed At noon Emrol, any poor unsuspecting cruiser or, even better, char- money for its operator but also offers opportunity to the wider community to share the spoils of their later involvement and runs something like this: Buy a cheap second-hand mooring ball. Acquire perhaps three 12-inch concrete blocks from some building site or other. Connect the blocks and buoy with whatever junk rope you can find lying around. Drop the lot in the water upwind and up-current from a reef in any popular anchoring spot. ideas are prolific and “anything to earn a dollar” perhaps becomes even more important than it always was. ended: 6) Common Sense. Sell Florida, were longtime liveaboards and cruisers — seven years on a 1975 43-foot Gulfstar Mark II trawler. We have plans to return to the water in the near future. I echo many of Ms. Gruener’s comments about generators. I do feel that those who run them all day are probably weekenders or boaters on vacation. Here, the distinction is clear. No powerboat “cruiser” would run their generator in a crowded anchorage for so long, as opposed to “boaters” who are only there for a short time. “Cruising” is a way of life and a mindset. “Boating” is a recreational activity, with a different mindset. The saving grace is that the “boaters” go away in a fairly short time. Carolyn Frazier Double Dragon Dear us details of the “ Anchor”. On a scale of 1 to 5 she started with Rock-a- Bye Baby and ended with Untenable (move anchor or leave the boat). Angelos I boaters and their generators. As a power boater, would like to add a few comments of my own. catamaran. Comfortably, Christopher Price Hummingbird Dear and the national park as separate, unconnected and the national park as separate, unconnected entities. If that is the case, why are yachts that are docked at AYC still liable for park fees for the time they are at the dock? We were on the dock at AYC from mid-June to mid-July of 2010 and were charged the park fees at checkout as if we were at anchor in Falmouth Harbour. Simple logic would imply that the two organizations are not indepen- dent but connected in some manner and, at least in the fee structure, the AYC is indeed part of the national park. It would seem some coordination between the AYC, the national park and the busi- nesses operating at the AYC dock might be more likely to produce a workable solution, rather than batting the issue back and forth over some imagined political net. John Rowland S/Y Silver Seas Dear Duffy’s response to the concerned cruiser’s letter. I’mDuffy’s response to the concerned cruisers who find devioussure there are irresponsible and I don’t support thatways of avoiding legitimate fees behavior in any way. But I do not see how that pertains to the debate over a change in policy involving the facilities in question. Also, I certainly hope Mr. Duffy is not trying to paint all cruisers with that brush. entrusted to them in any manner they see fit to bal- entrusted to them in any yachting community and ance providing service to the of the club. maintaining fiscal integrity Antigua Yacht Club dinghy dock usage in the January Antigua Yacht Club dinghy with some interest. 2012 issue’s Readers’ Forum http://8ung.at/ankh/index.htm and http://8ung.at/ankh/index.htm www.ankh-refugium.com. Gabriela Beyer Key of Life Dear Thanks again to Emrol and his family, who spared the Thanks again to Emrol and time for us on Christmas Eve. nearly nothing. We were so happy, and after waiting We were so happy, and nearly nothing. gearbox lying even happy to have a that long I was is a feeling galley on Christmas Eve. This around in my can be can understand — that a gearbox only cruisers than a feast! more important hour later Emrol had the gearbox out. hour later Emrol — MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48

Call, faxorvisitourwebsiteforacompletelistofboatssale appear in the 6 19 Pot Snowgoose Prout 1993 36’ ST. THOMAS YACHTSALES Ahoy, 40’ 2002Corinthian400,TwinYanmars,ExpressCruiser$250,000 42’ 1984PresentSundeck,135HPFordLehmans,needswk$39,000 48’ 2004DynaCraftMY,450Cats,3strms$295,000 26’ 1997GradyWhite,cuddycabin,twinYamahas$36,000 37’ 1977Tartan,wellmaintained,stackpack,AP$39,000 50’ 1978NautorMSailer,refit,excellentcruiser$249,000 43’ 1976Gulfstar,Yanmar75HP,lowhrs.AP,$45,000 38’ 1967LeComte,Northeast38,classic,excellentcond.$78,500 Excellent Condition Caribbean Compass PAGET FARM LOWER BAY OCAR BELMONT WALKWAY W&W Supermarket Fernando’s Hideaway De ReefRestaurant Bee’s Café GYE Grenadine Sails Mac’s Pizzeria Fig TreeRestaurant Wallace &Co. PortHole Restaurant Piper Marine Lulley’s Tackle Imperial Pharmacy Friendship RoseOffice Frangipani Hotel Bequia Venture Bequia TourismAssn. Bequia PostOffice Bequia Bookshop Compass Exposure $119,000 bold Compass PointMarina,6300Est.Frydenhoj,Suite28, PICK UP! ): Readers!WheninBequia,pickupyourfreemonthlycopyof www.stthomasyachts.com atanyoftheselocations(advertisersinthisissue St. Thomas,U.S.V.I.00802 Fax: (340)779-4803 Tel: (340)779-1660 [email protected] Power Sail

3 18 Mrn Trading Marine 1987 43’ Sundeck, Washer/Dryer Miss Goody $85,000 of theidea.We’llkeepyoupostedondevelopments. Yachting Space.Talkswereheldandthe Grenadagovernmenthasstateditssupport Grenada andSVGasalikelypilotmodule forthedevelopmentofalargerOECSSingle satisfy everybody. asked totalkthematterover.Weare sure youwillcometoasolutionthat whole wasteddayoftheirholidayandthe moneytheypayforadayofthecharter. read? Itismuchmoreboringtodoit! to theoffices,usuallystandinginaqueue,checkingorout…Isthatboring to Island (ordowntoCarriacou),anchoringthere,takingadinghyrideashore,walking outboard up,bringingtheanchorthensailinguptoUnion queue, checkinginorout,takingthedinghyridebacktoboat,bringing ing there,takingadinghyrideashore,walkingtotheoffices,usuallystandingin yachting destinationsinthatregard. in/out iseasywithjustONEdocumenttofillout.Theyarewayaheadofmany It wouldbeanabsolutebonusforeveryone,andtheeconomyaswell. Vincent &theGrenadinessothatcruiserscouldsailfreelyinALLofGrenadines. sle involvedinclearingandout. will oftennotvisitCarriacouandGrenadajustbecauseofthetimewastinghas- save themoney,andsailimmediatelyforUnion.NobusinessatallGrenada. Customs andImmigrationagaintocheckout,thedecisionwasmade:savetime, mentioned tomyhusbandthatifwecheckedinatCarriacouwe’dhavereturn there isbettershelter,andjustcheckintoSt.Vincent&theGrenadines.WhenI Carriacou andcheckintoGrenadawaters,orsailonwardUnionIsland,where feet fromthenorthfornextfewdays.Wehadtodecidewhetherstayin Next morningtheweatherforecastwaspredictingstrongwindsandswellsupto15 north fromTrinidad.WebypassedGrenada,andarrivedforthenightatCarriacou. the lastisland.“Don’tforgetmoney!Dowehavecurrencyfromthisisland?” line, wherearetheshoes?”Grabbingship’spapers,passports,documentsfrom down, bringingtheoutboarddown.“Dowehavepaddles,doenoughgaso- it isaswellallthehassleofclearingin: where togo.AnditisnotonlythecostofcheckingintoanislandinCaribbean, or reduced,butothershavebeenraised.Thereforecruisersstillthinkcarefully on visitingyachtsthat the water!” per passportwhencheckingout,plustheTT$50monthboatisin it isnowalsobecomingexpensive!EvenhereinTrinidadtheychargeTT$75 straight throughtillBequia.I’msickofallthatclearinginandout.Bytheway, Grenada andSVG? Editor’s note:Lastyear,aproposalwasmade tocreatea“SingleYachtingSpace”of The governmentsofboth,St.Vincent &theGrenadinesandGrenadaare That circuscantakeusawholeday.When touristscharterayachtthatmeansone But thereisstillthetimewewasteforsailingtoHillsborough(orClifton),anchor- It isalreadyoutstandingthatinbothSVGandGrenada,thepaperworkforcheck- I askifitisnotpossibletocreatejustONEcheck-in/outforGrenadaandSt. Same storytheotherwayround.CruisersclearedintoSt.Vincent&Grenadines All ofusarereallysickallthat.Iexperienceditmyselfrecentlywhenwesailed Then it’sthesameprocedurewhencheckingout,justafewmilesfartheron. Anchoring asclosepossibletoCustomsandImmigration,takingthedinghy It istruethatsomeofthefeesmentionedinoverviewregionalchargeslevied I justoverheardaconversationinTrinidad:“Whenleavefromherewillsail Why NotaSingle It is much more boring todoit! It ismuchmoreboring Clearance for Is that boring toread? Is thatboring Compass WHAT’S ONMYMIND by AngelikaGrüner

ranbackinFebruaryof2002havebeeneliminated CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS 8th century made inthe1 political decision to anarbitrary countries, thanks two different Carriacou arein neighboring shown here,and The TobagoCays, MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 2,000,000 $950,000 €340,000 $ 2007 50’ Catana 2007 50’ Catana 2000 47’ 2007 73’ Executive 619 000 € Privilege 465 - 2002 196 000 € Ready to go - French Flag EC VAT PAID - 349 000 € - 349 000 PAID EC VAT 89 000 € Elec winches - Perfect condition Private boat never been chartered Private boat never been chartered Genset - Water Maker - Solar Panels Genset - Water $749,000 $619,000 €4.900.000

2008 89’ Catana 2008 89’ € 159 000 € 139 000 88 000 € 180 000 € 330 000 € (Amel 1 Year warranty) Year (Amel 1 59 000 €

2008 50’ Lagoon 2008 50’

1999 60’ Fountaine Pajot 1999 60’ 550 000 € MONOHULLS CATAMARANS Like New Private boat full options Owner Version Owner version 1650 Hrs only New Engines Full options 56 Hp Yanmar 56 Hp ATTRACTIVE PRICE ATTRACTIVE Owner boat - 2000 - 2005 AMEL 54 2005AMEL SUN ODYSSEY 45.2 SUN ODYSSEY 35 SUN ODYSSEY EC Vat Paid 499 000 € Paid 499 000 EC Vat Air Cond - Davits Full options French FlagAir Cond - Davits Full options French 110 HP Volvo New! Genset - Water Maker - New! Genset - Water Volvo HP 110 Gib Sea 472 - 1992 Jeanneau 74 000 € Hunter Marine 49 - 2007 Beneteau Oceanis 473 - 2002 Beneteau Oceanis 510 - 1991 Dean 441 - 2008 4 cabins Lagoon 410 S2 - 2006 - 4 Cabins Lavezzi 40 - 2004 - 4 Cabins 185 000 € 369 000 € 175 000 € Amel Super Maramu 1994 Lagoon 470 - 2002 3 Cabins Amel 54 2009 3 Cabins Lagoon 500 - 2011 DUFOUR 385 - 2005 - Jeanneau Union Island Sailing Club,

See ad on page 19 went to press — but plans change, Championships, Nevis. [email protected]

See ad on page 18 Compass [email protected] CALENDAR and contact information of the organizing body to All information was correct to the best of our knowledge Union Island Regatta, Grenadines. so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival. www.bvispringregatta.org Antigua Sailing Week. www.sailingweek.com please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name Public holiday in some Commonwealth countries (Commonwealth Day) Public holiday in some Commonwealth 6th International Invitational J/22 Regatta, Race Cayman Week 2012: Yacht Club Powerade Multiclass Regatta, St. Maarten. St Maarten Antigua. Russian Business Caribbean Sailing Week, Falmouth Harbour, www.caribbeancompass.com at the time this issue of Caribbean Rendezvous. www.nautorswan.com/ClubSwan ClubSwan Superyacht Regatta & Rendezvous, BVI. Caribbean Puerto Rico Heineken International Regatta. www.prheinekenregatta.com St. Barth’s Bucket. www.bucketregattas.com/stbarths USVI. www.rolexcupregatta.com International Rolex Regatta, St. Thomas, Marina Hemingway, Cuba. Kayak and Canoe Races, http://ttgfa.com/events Marlin Tournament, Tobago. www.antiguaclassics.com Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta. Tobago Jazz Experience, Speyside. www.grenadagrenadines.com. St. Mark’s Day Festival, Grenada. St. Barth Film Festival. www.stbarthff.org String Band Festival. Carriacou Music Maroon & RBVIYC, www.royalbviyc.org BVI Dinghy Championships. la Martinique (YCM), Banana’s Cup Regatta, Martinique. Yacht Club de Annual Open, Antigua. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC), Wahoo Tournament, Trinidad. http://ttgfa.com/events Caribbean Arts and Crafts Festival, Tortola, BVI. [email protected] Patrick’s Festival, Montserrat. www.visitmontserrat.com St. Goat Racing in Tobago End Yacht Club (WEYC), Dark & Stormy Regatta, Anegada, BVI. West Around Martinique Race. www.cn-windforce-robert.com Around Guadeloupe Race. www.triskellcup.com Virgin Gorda Easter Festival (Carnival). www.bvitourism.com Bequia Heineken Easter Regatta. Jet Ski Race, Havana Waterfront, Cuba. Oyster Regatta, BVI. BVI. Regatta, Oyster Easterval celebrations, Union Island, Grenadines. Les Voiles de St. Barth. 1 April www.stluciayachtclub.com St. Lucia J/24 Open Championship. FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE Virgin Queen Pizza Pursuit Race, BVI. RBVIYC, www.rbviyc.org International Earth Day Guadeloupe to Antigua Race. www.sailingweek.com Yachting World Round Antigua Race. www.sailingweek.com Public holiday in Barbados (National Heroes’ Day) Public holiday in Dutch islands (Netherlands Queen’s Birthday) - Baptist “Shouter” Liberation Day) Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Spiritual Heroes’ Day) holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines (National Public Patrick’s Day). Public holiday in Montserrat (St. Equinox Vernal Jumble Sale, Bequia. Sunshine School Annual OECS Open Water Swimming If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, Brunch, Bequia. (784) 457-3409, Compass Writers’ MOON FULL Sunday many places (Good Friday) Public holiday in Easter Public holiday in many places (Easter Monday) Easter Regatta, Jamaica. Montego Bay Yacht Club MOON Gill Commodore’s Cup, St. Maarten. www.heinekenregatta.com Anguilla (James Ronald Webster Day) Public holiday in Náutico de San Juan Club 420 Regatta. www.nauticodesanjuan.com Club FULL Public holiday in the BVI (H. Lavity Stoutt’s Birthday) International Women’s Day Public holiday in Guyana and Suriname (Phagwah) Public holiday in Belize (Baron Bliss Day) 5 [email protected] 5 - 8 5 - 8 5 - 8 5 - 9 6 6 7 - 8 [email protected] 8 [email protected] 9 Club Náutico Intl. Hemingway (CNIH), tel (+1 53) 724-2718, 9 - 10 14 - 15 CNIH, 18 - 21 19 - 24 21 21 - 29 www.facebook.com/tobagojazzexperience 22 22 - 29 25 - 30 27 27 - 29 www.grenadagrenadines.com 28 28 28 - 29 29 - 4 May 30 TBA APRIL 1 www.mobayyachtclub.com 1 - 9 www.unionislandeasterval.com 2 - 7 www.oystermarine.com/events/77/Oyster-Regatta-BVI-2012 2 - 7 26 – 1 April 30 31 1 2 3 5 8 8 8 9 9 - 12 MARCH 495-4559 (284) 9 – 14 9 – 18 10 - 11 10 - 11 10 - 11 www.ycm972.org tel (596) 63 26 76, fax (596) 63 94 48, [email protected], 12 12 – 17 [email protected], www.antiguayachtclub.com tel/fax (268) 460-1799, 14 14 – 17 www.superyachtregattaandrendezvous.com 15 – 18 16 – 18 17 Caribbean Optimist Championship. www.sailing.ky and Open & Western 17 17 – 24 Day Festival, Grenada St. Patrick’s http://rusregata.ru/regata/winter2010 20 (599) 586-0850, [email protected], www.smyc.com (SMYC), tel 20 www.bequiasunshineschool.org 22 – 25 23 – 25 24 [email protected] (784) 494-1212, MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES (French Creole Caribbean Cuisine) (French CreoleCaribbean BLUE BAY Incl. Pilots, Rigging Chandlery, Charts, TEL +351292391616FAX +351292391656 YACHT SERVICES Restaurant &Bar MID ATLANTIC Portsmouth, Dominica Providing all vital services to Providing allvitalservices www.midatlanticyachtservices.com EU-VAT (16%)importation Duty free fuel(+10.000lt) Duty free Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Tel. 767-445-4985 Trans-Atlantic Yachts! [email protected] tel: (473)[email protected] • wooden-warehammocks+moreuniquegifts CARRIACOU REALESTATE Jeff Fisher–Grenada(473)537-6355 Property ManagementonCarriacou and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthechartertrade well-built sailsthatarewellsuitedtothe for acompetitivequoteonruggedand Check outourwebsiteorcontactusdirectly Tel: (473)4438187Fax:8290 e-mail: [email protected] We alsohandleVilla Rentals& or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: • rareexoticarts+crafts Carriacou RealEstateLtd young streetst.george's www.neilprydesails.com Land andhousesforsale for yourboat,home+friends just stepsfromthecarenage www.carriacou.net Grenada NEILPRYDE Sails •jewelry grenada continuedonnextpage HydraulicSystemsetc. Reverser, Generator -Diesel&Gasoline MarineEngineRepair MarineDiesel SMS Zac artimer-LeMarin,Martinique FWI Tel: +(596)596650524 Fax:+(596)596650053 Zone Artimer, Tel: +596(0)696778229 S S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada stainless steelandaluminiumitems. TechNick Ltd. welding. Fabricationandrepairof Engineering, fabricationand M F Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 L Nick Williams, Manager [email protected] A [email protected] [email protected] G Watermakers S Marine Electrics W I N D  S C A R T E  P D F Andre SIOU                MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 e . r o t S

e n i (range limited by the hills) r BAR • a M PORT OF ENTRY HAPPY HOUR 5-6 Rigging, Lifelines Rigging,

TOURS ARRANGED MOORING FACILITIES E-mail: [email protected] r BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS www.frangipanibequia.com Warm & friendly atmosphere Warm [email protected] e CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED RESTAURANT • CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the filters, nuts & bolts, impellers, impellers, bolts, & nuts filters, the p Bequia - Port Elizabeth i Fine dining • Excellent selection of wines VHF Ch 16 & 68 Spectacular views • Quality accommodation Spectacular views bilge pumps, varnish & much more. varnish & much bilge pumps, Bequia ANCHORAGE frangipani WALLILABOU WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU PPiper Marine Store Stocked with lots of marine hardware, with lots of marine hardware, Stocked (784) 457 3856 • Cell: (784) 495 2272 • VHF 68 (784) 457 3856 • Cell: Don’t miss our famous barbecue and jump up Thursday nights! Thursday barbecue and jump up our famous Don’t miss HOTEL Tel: (784) 458-3255 Fax: (784) 458-3824 continued on next page R A BBAR

&&

T N A R U A Call KENNY T Furlex & Profurl rigging, splicing, S Agents for Doyle, or (758) 584- 0291 cockpit cushions, Tel: (758) 452-8648 awnings, new sails, E Sail repairs, biminis,

servicing of winches. RRESTAURANT

[email protected] Y E St. Lucia

T S E S A Y L Didier and Maria TTASTE N I

OF OUTBOARD ENGINES. right in the heart of Gros Islet right in the heart of Gros A WE PICK UP AND DELIVER N Saturday by appointment D E A AND SERVICING OF ALL MAKES tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 tel/fax: (596) 596 74 BBAY D Genuine local and international cuisine Genuine ALSO AVAILABLE ARE PRE-OWNED SSAILS O L located at Carenantilles dockyard located at Carenantilles LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE e-mail: [email protected] TO AND FROM RODNEY BAY MARINA. RECONDITIONED OUTBOARD ENGINES. CALL ROGER AT (758) 284-6050 O Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm 8-12am 2-6pm Open Monday to Friday Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) Sails & Canvas (repairs Voiles Assistance RRODNEY ROGER'S OUTBOARD SERVICE OFFERS PROMPT AND EFFICIENT REPAIRS For reservations & information Tel: (758) 450-9792 Tel: reservations & information For St. Lucia GGOLDEN   



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. M I e U Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean Telephone: 0596 74 60 89 TTelephone: 0596 74 60 89 F S w - 11 I N O w WIFI Connection for our Guests WWIFI Connection for our # AM LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE wwww.restaurant-mangobay.com Opening Hours from 7 Tel: +(596) 596 74 80 33 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05 www.caraibe-marine.fr [email protected]

MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 &Buddhism2hrsEC$30.00 Religious DVD,IncludingKathmandu,Bhutan 5. 3hrsEC$30.00 4. SaintPetersburg,Russia,AFabulousCity intoScotland:150minsEC$30.00 AlnwickMusicFestival,OvertheBorders 3. Northumberland,AlnwickCastle,Gardens, &BequiaMusicFest,90minsEC$30 2. 14Islands,St.Lucia-TrinidadCarnival 80minutes( 1. BeautifulBequiafrom1973-2011 Tel: (784)530-8123/570-7612 KERRY’S MARINE SERVICES KERRY’S MARINESERVICES by JohnCawsey,Bequia1(784)455-7631 DVD’S FORSALE THE FIGTREE E-mail: [email protected] Fax: (784)4583025 • COSMETICS • • TOILETRIES • MEDICAL ACCESSORIES PHARMACEUTICALS • OVER THE COUNTER DRUGSERVICES • FULL PRESCRIPTION • NEWCONVENIENT LOCATION IImperial Pharmacy Belmont Walkway,nexttoMac'sPizzeria Tel: (784)4583373orpersonal: (784)5932421 euaPr lzbt poieBn fSVG of Bank opposite Elizabeth Port Bequia PortElizabethoppositeBankofSVG GIFT SHOP,RESTAURANT,ROOMS m Open Dailyfrom11amuntil… or write c/o Post office: Port Elizabeth or writec/oPostoffice:PortElizabeth p Brixham TQ58AP,England e Caribbean CompassMarketPlace or write 34, Overgang, or write34,Overgang, r Feel Better... LiveBetter! Mooringsavailable •Refrigeration •Welding/Electrical •Diesel/Outboardrepair Local Cuisine i ₤ Mechanical Service 8.00) orEC$30.00 DVD EC$30 www.figtreebequia.com [email protected] Tel: 7844573008 a BEQUIA l E-mail: [email protected] Marine/Land

P BEQUIA h a VHF 68“KMS” r m VHF 68 a c y

• FILLERSSTAINLESSFASTENERSADHESIVES • SPRAYPAINTSROLLERSBRUSHESTOOLS • CLEANING SUPPLIES • GOLDEN HINDCHANDLERIESLTD. BEQUIA VENTURE CO. LTD WICKHAMS CAY II-NEXTTO THEMOORINGS TEL: 12844947749FAX: 12844948031 Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat, Primer, Epoxy,TopCoat, “IF WEDONOTHAVE IT, St. Vincent & the Grenadines for St. Vincent&theGrenadinesfor Email: [email protected] Tel: 7844583319•Fax:3000 Antifouling, Thinners EMAIL: [email protected] WE WILL GETIT” PORT ELIZABETH,BEQUIA appointed agents in appointed agentsin

BOAT’S NEEDS! YOUR FOR ALL ONE STOP SHOP • NAILS • HOSE CLAMPS • CLAMPS HOSE • NAILS • continuedonnextpage MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53

! BEQUIA BEQUIA Beachfront LA POMPE LA 3 bedrooms Lot 11,802 sq/ft. Lot 11,802 House 3,631sq/ft Compass before after REMEMBER

Composite/Painting team. COMPOSITE/PAINTING E-mail: [email protected] Interested parties should apply to TECHNICAL SUPERVISOR We are currently accepting applications is the largest boatyard on Grenada. www.spotlessstainless.com Makes Stainless Steel Sparkle. Makes Stainless Steel ☛ Spotless Stainless Spotless Spotless Stainless Spotless No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. No Polishing. No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. for the above vacancy to manage the boatyard's Available at Island Water World or World Water at Island Available to tell our advertisers you [email protected]. Grenada Marine Spectacular Views of Grenadines Spectacular Views saw their ad in VACANCY Villa For Sale Visit our website at www.grenadamarine.com   #   #     #   #   The ideal candidate will have: • Knowledge and experience with structural/exotic composite projects • Experience in working with composites and laminates within a boatyard environment • Suitable certification • Knowledge and experience with topside preparation and painting (AwlGrip experience a plus) • Knowledge of present market value of composite painting jobs (preparation of estimates/quotes) and • The ability to interact with customers re: selling work • Be able to work to very high standards of finish and finesse • Be flexible to work to production deadlines • Be able to work as part of a team experience • Sailing • Languages a plus Ford

784 4390014 11knots 784 458 3404 SPEED & CONSUMPTION Speed: Bow thruster: Aux. Engines: 2x 36kws (SCANIA) Main engine: 600bhp Wichmann 4ACAT CONTACT [email protected] Tel: Mobile: SPECIFICATIONS Mischorne Weekes 365gt DON’T 100tns 129 gt 1983 8.90m 3.37m 1970 Eidsvik Norway 39.58m St. Vincent LEAVE PORT WITHOUT IT Fax: 784-570-4396 Email: [email protected] MV ADMIRAL BAY FOR SALE MV ADMIRAL BAY Kelectric Co. Ltd, Villa Flats, St.Vincent Tel: 784-570-4296 Tel: Flats, St.Vincent Kelectric Co. Ltd, Villa NAUTICAT FOR SALE NAUTICAT LOA:42’ (12.8 m) LOA:42’ (6.7 m) Beam:22’ (0.9 m) Draft:Min 3’ Max 3’6” (1.1 m) Hull Mtrl: Fiberglass Hull Cnfg.: Catamaran Deck Mtrl: Fiberglas Sandwich Mfg-2007 Model-2007 Year: Disp: 30000 (13607.9 kg) Staterooms: 3 MARINE AFRICAT Mfg: Model: 42 Cap: 2 x 100G Water Flag: USA Flybridge hardtop With Top: 500 Engines: 2 x Volvo Location: Puerto Rico Power Catamaran Type: 2 x 60G Tank: Holding Diesel Type: Fuel Price: 499,000 USD MAIN SPECIFICATIONS LOA: Beam: Draft: Built: Rebuilt: Flag: Stern Ramp Opening 4.20m TONNAGE Gross Tonnage: Net Tonnage: Deck Capacity: Caribbean Travel Caribbean Travel , and …Readers Forum Readers, Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean Readers, SAIL, Cruising World I’m writing a novel now that takes place I’m writing a novel now that takes place Compass Continued from page 47 Send your letters to: [email protected] or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia VC0400 St. Vincent & the Grenadines We do not publish individual consumer complaints or We want to hear from YOU! Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside Thanks a bunch for any ideas you have, or if you As a former USCG captain and ASA instructor with As a former USCG captain and ASA instructor with Happy sailing and exploring new horizons! • If visiting Santa, Colombia and staying in the very • If visiting Santa, Colombia and staying in the very individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. know of any cruisers who have blogs/logs I could base my cruise on. Lee Woods Cocoa, Florida [email protected] Dear credits in & Life, aboard a Hylas 59 en route from Newport to Bermuda to St. Thomas. I can think of incidents, crew activi- ties, weather, prevailing winds, etcetera — all the usual things that happen on a boat (mine has two couples aboard) during a long cruise — but I’m hop- ing to find a blog or log written by a skipper or first mate that details the daily life aboard a similar boat (mine’s a double-head rig ketch) on a similar cruise in the near-Atlantic. Liesbet Collaert S/V Irie Hi Compass — modern and friendly Marina Santa Marta (with the helpful agent Dino), consider visiting Cartagena overland from there. Have a three-day vacation in the most beautiful and interesting city of Colombia while your boat lies safely moored. This way, you avoid the unattractive, dirty and choppy anchorage in Cartagena Harbor and you save on extra agent fees, while checking in and eventually out of Santa Marta and Colombia. MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 improvements since 2008. improvements since2008. PILOTHOUSE 1981 50' CHEOYLEEEUROPA (784) 528-7273 excellent conditionTel: 1992 42’ SEARAYSUNDANCER www.alleluiaforsale.com For moreinfo: custom steelcutter/sloop. 1990 BRUCEROBERTS434 www.crackajacksailing.com Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD [email protected] USD 189,999E-mail start cruisingtomorrow. in Trinidad.Readyforyouto Caribbean andnowlocated tained. Sailedthroughoutthe single owner,lovinglymain- CRUISER 46’ PETERSONPERFORMANCE Tel (758)4528531 E-mail [email protected] 2009HUNTER45DS229.000US 1978/2000FORMOSA56199.000US 1986OYSTER435135.000GBP 1987IRWIN44MKII119.500US 1997BENETEAU36CC61.000US 1982CATALINA3219.000US 1981 Capedory3022.000US EdwardsYachtSales.com 504-0790 E-mailDoug@ $ 99,000,CallDougTel:(941) DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO G DETSR OAIN P# DETSR OAIN PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATION PG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER eBgFs Geaa MP 47 35 12 Grenada MP St.Maarten Dominica 11 Curaçao Martinique 21 Dominica MarineCenter 49 MP 44 Dockwise YachtTransportSarl Martinique MP 15 Diesel Outfitters 49 Diginav Martinique Guadeloupe MP De BigFish Martinique 45 Antigua Curaçao Marine Mustique Martinique 2 Corea's FoodStoreMustique MP MP Trinidad Clippers Ship UnionIsland 31 Caribbean Rigging/FKG Tortola SintMaarten Trinidad MP Caribbean PropellersLtd. Caribbean MarineElectrical 23 Caraibe Yachts MP Trinidad 23 19 Caraibe Marine Mustique SVG Caraibe Marine Dominica Captain Gourmet 47 48 BVI YachtSales Budget Marine Antigua 17 37 Boater's Enterprise Bequia PetiteMartinique Blue BayRestaurant C/W St.Lucia Blanchards CustomsServices 47 Antigua St.Vincent Bequia Venture DominicanRep Bequia EasterRegatta Basil’s Bar Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Art &Design Aero TecLabs Anjo Insurance A BlueHorizon BOATS FORSALE withCaterpillardiesels, 1988 Center cockpit, 1988 Centercockpit, Many

[email protected] US$900,000 E-mail: US registered.Offersabove berth atTTYCalsoavailable. for newowner,LyingTrinidad, lers. Excellentconditionready outboard, sparesetofpropel- electronics, 7’dinghywith5HP maker, FCIwatermaker,full fresh bottompaint,Eskimoice fresh fuelpumpsandinjectors, kW. Newteakcockpitsole, knot max,Onangenset17.5 30 knotcruise@1,900rpm-38 1300HP 12cylinder1600hours, 56’ and57’Vikings,MAN Same cabinlayoutasnewer Last onebuilt,hullnumber115. VIKING 55’CONVERTIBLE2004 [email protected] or E-maildrbeautyandthe- maranjeantot37forsale.com Bequia, visitprivilegecata- PRIVILEGE 37 [email protected] Email: caribbeanyachtserv- (758) 287-5483/484-7614 US$9,500. ContactJemTel: basic operatingequipment, above andincludesall tion asseeninthepicture Lucia. Boatisingreatcondi- located inVigie,Castries,St. sold atbestoffer.Boat Price forquicksalewillbe RIB w/Yamaha504stroke. 14.5 FTZODIACPRO7man [email protected] (941) 504-0790E-mail: Ask $120,000.CallDoug owner. LyingSt.Martin. er, electronics,etc.Motivated generator, paint,bowthrust- New itemsincludeinterior, 53’ HATTERASCONVERTIBLE1973 REMEMBER moored aPaa rnd MP MP Grenada 46 MP 18 23/35 24 St.Croix MP St.Barth SVG 34 56 SVG St.Lucia 6 7 Les VoilesdeSt.Barth MP SintMaarten UK La Playa 44 Kerry MarineServices SVG Bequia MP Jones Maritime MP Grenada MP Johnson Hardware Grenada MP 45 St.Lucia St.Vincent 30 John Cawsey MP Island WaterWorld Iolaire Enterprises Trinidad Imperial Pharmacy Grenada Grenadines Sails Antigua SVG Grenada Tourism MP SVG Tortola 41 Grenada Marine C/W Gourmet Foods Golden Taste Golden HindChandlery 46 Gittens Engines 4 Free CruisingGuides SVG Frangipani Hotel USA Frame Shop 13 41 Food Fair MP Fig Tree C/W Fernando's Hideaway Tortola Electropics Trinidad Trinidad Edward WilliamInsurance St.Lucia Echo Marine-JotunSpecial Grenada Doyle's Guides Doyle OffshoreSails MP Down IslandRealEstate Doolittle's Restaurant

www.thefunticket.com For detailssee: Ticket, verygoodcondition 68FT BERTRAM1979 info.Tel: (784)493-9720 trailer included.Formore Fastload 6wheelaluminum Suitable forfish/dive/tour. 48gls water,shwr/head. 2x250 Yamahas,306gls.gas, 30.5’, 2000,centerconsole GRADY WHITE306BIMINI [email protected] Tel: (340)244-4155E-mail Christian Hbr,$24koroffers chain, windlass,mooringin depth, Gps,4anchors, cruise equip,autopilot, Yanmar 3GM,30hpdiesel BOMBAY CLIPPER31' Tel: (784)496-2693/593-7804 BOAT. 31’ MONSTEROPENPLEASURE [email protected] (784) 532-9224 and admiredbymany.Tel: income, apleasuretosail suite bathrooms.Good 2 twincabinsallwithen- Sleep 8guestsin2dbl.and beautifully maintained. YACHT 62’ CUSTOMBUILTCHARTER

to tellouradvertisersyousawtheiradinthe 2x250Yamahas. MCAapproved, ADVERTISERS INDEX CLASSIFIEDS The Fun E-mail E-mail [email protected] to reasonableoffers.E-mail Was askingUS$55,000Open Island Marine,Grenada. Well outfitted,locatedSpice 40’ CENTERCOCKPITSLOOP [email protected] Tel: (784)455-4980E-mail: sacrifice US$25,000 aboard, situationforcessale er furlingmain,greatlive solar, dodgerw/bimini,roll- LOD, centercockpit,davits, 1972 IRWINKETCH37 [email protected] Bryan Tel:(246)241-3035 Barbados Y.C.US$10,000 England, 8hpYamaha,lying CONTESSA 261970 [email protected] Grenada. US$245,000E-mail boat/live aboard.Based excellent cond.greatfamily ted galley.Bigflybridge, heads. Bigsalonwithrefit- bow thruster.3cabins/2 genset, watermaker,a/c, hours.15kw Westerbeke MTU 8V183TE-645hp1,100 1992 fastmotorcruiser.Twin SEA RAY550SEDANBRIDGE E-mail [email protected] 6+, 1stUS129Ksailsitaway. package, autopilot,sleeps regatta speed.Balancedsail knts simplesailing,10-15 waterline 9’,below3’.8-10 beam 25’.Beamabove 42’ NEWICKTRIMARAN, [email protected] 8828/457-4477 E-mail considerably Tel:(784)582- Must Sell,pricesreduced BOWEN 28’/DIVEBOAT42’ e evcs atnqe MP 10 39 Martinique MP Martinique MP MP 5 38 CW MP St.Lucia 8 MP MP Trinidad Panama Sea Services Aruba SVG Sea Services 25 Sea HawkPaints St.Lucia SVG Rodney BaySails Tortola Antigua 36 Rodger's OutboardService Renaissance Marina 14 St.Lucia Red FrogMarina MP 49 Power Boats 9 Porthole Restaurant 13 Trinidad Piper Marine 30 Perkins Engines 46 Grenada Performance Paints Peake's YachtServices C/W St.Vincent MP Ottley HallMarina&Shipyard MP C/W 33 27 MP Tortola On Deck C/W DominicanRep Off ShoreRiskManagement Grenada OceansWatch C/W MP Martinique Ocean Conservancy 40 Colombia Neil PrydeSails Azores Trinidad Multihull Company Mid AtlanticYachtServices McIntyre Bros.Ltd Marina Zar-Par C/W Marina SantaMarta Marcom Trinidad Marc OneMarine Mango Bay LIAT Lesson PlansAhoy! MP , built in , builtin E-mail E-mail

spiceisle.com email CVto:enzamarine@ independent tech.Please eration. Idealforcruiseror generators, ACandrefrig- tronics, watermakers,wind engines, electrical,elec- experience inmarinediesel technicians withworking Grenada isseekingskilled marine engineeringco.in E-mail [email protected] dition. Tel:(868)637-3244 Fully equipped,excellentcon- OCEANIS BENETEAU [email protected] Flag. US$150,000E-mailjoy- Large insulatedhold.SVG gls. fuel,2,300glswater. Isuzu 56KWgenerator,18,500 in goodcondition.CAT3408 80' STEELTRAWLER1977 www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern multi-acre tracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, Tel: (758)4528531 [email protected] Vane bestoffer Aries CircumnavigatorWind repair -bestoffer Westerbeke 12,5KW-needs from US250 Winches, Barlow,Barient to 22"fromUS200 Sail boatprops marine-rigging.com 544-4733 E-mail:info@fkg- Marine RiggingTel:(721) 6" Price$6000.00CallFKG OAL: 63ft7",P:58ft,E:19ft spreaders, deckstepped spars forsale.Tripleaftraked MAST ANDBOOM HYDRAULIC INMASTFURLING (868) 650-1914/221-9439 Model 1622,ContactRodTel: FURUNO RADAR,Likenew, bean.com/specials.htm DEALS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL SAILS ANDCANVAS MARINE TECHNICIANWANTED Compass LAND FORSALE MISC. FORSALE athttp://doylecarib- WANTED 3blade13" ! byHall Lots and aauMrn Vnzea 34 MP Venezuela MP 44 MP Trinidad 12 MP Martinique Dominica YES Martinique MP 31 SVG Xanadu Marine 43 WIND Martinique MP Curaçao MP 22 Whitchurch Supercenter MP West PalmHotel Grenada Wallilabou Anchorage St.Vincent Grenada VirginGorda Voiles Assistance SVG Venezuela Virgin GordaYachtHarbour Grenada Trinidad 26 Venezuelean MarineSupply MP Velox Antifouling 16 Velocity WaterServices MP 33 PuertoRico Turbulence Sails Turbulence Sails 55 48 Tikal Arts&Crafts St.Vincent St.Maarten Technick Grenada MP Tank andFuel St.Thomas SVG Air Grenada Sunsail MarineCenter St.Maarten Sunbay Marina St. ThomasYachtSales MP St. MaartenSails MP SpotlessStainless USA Spice IslandMarine SMS Martinique Simoust Charters SeaSense C/W 20 MP E-mail E-mail CW =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages50to53

[email protected] com Tel:(784)431-9500E-mail home www.bequiawoodwork. Bedeau Tel:(473)442-6200 western sectionwooded.Telfor vated withvariousfruittrees; beach. Easternsectionculti- and 1/2milefromSoubise miles fromGrenvillebyroad Soubise, St.Andrews,11/2 ft. LocatedatTheVillain rood, 19poles).US$1persq/ 150,000 sq/ft(3acres,1 GRENADA WOODWORKING BEQUIA -CLIFF’SFINE www.247sailing.net E-mail [email protected] Tel: (757)746-7927 experienced andreliable and sail.Capt.LouisHoneycutt, USCG 100tonlicensed,power Experienced captain/crew, INTERNATIONAL BLUEWATER YACHT DELIVERIES Tel: (758)452-0147/720-8432 night, allamenities. Marina, St.Lucia.US$40.00per Overlooking RodneyBay RODNEY BAY,2BEDROOMAPT Tel: (784)432-3491 8th-20th Feb2012Local btinternet.com E-mail: caribbeancottage@ caribbeanhouse.html www.nicolacontreras.co.uk/ develop. US$150,000 2010. Potentialtofurther Furniture included.Renovated tern. Walktovillage/beach. electricity, 45000glswatercis- sq/ft in1/3acregarden.Mains bdrm, kitchen,bathroom.875 covered terrace,bigliving/ views overcoralreef,fullwidth Tobago Caysfromhere!Sea COTTAGE UNION IS.GRENADINES,STONE @caribbeancompass.com PROPERTY FORSALE US 50¢PERWORD Include name,address and numbersincount. CLASSIFIEDS the 15thofmonth. Line drawings/photos classifieds areUS$10. accompanying Pre-paid by SERVICES RENTALS swim w/turtles at swimw/turtlesat classifieds Approx.area E-mail: E-mail: for yacht or foryachtor

MARCH 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55  OFF

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