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All About Making Chains with Jump Rings

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All About Making Chains with Jump Rings All About Making Chains with Jump Rings Marilyn Gardiner Design Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Seminar Summary • Types of Chain Mail • Where to learn more – books and on-line • About Jump Rings • Tools you will need • Supplies you might want • How to finish your work • How to evaluate a kit or book Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design How to get these notes • Join our e-mailing list – Book is going around – Please print clearly! – We will send you a PDF set of notes of this presentation. • If you can’t wait.. – Send us an e-mail asking! – [email protected] Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail European Weave • traditionally used for armour and jewellery • from Europe and the Middle East • typically have a grain that only runs in one direction • two sets of rings that lie in opposite planes Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail European •Boxchain Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail European •Byzantine Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail Japanese Weave • traditionally used in Japan armour • numerous ring connections • horizontal rings joined by vertical "connector" rings Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail Japanese •Flower Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail Japanese • Origami Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail Persian Weave • very similar to European • based on a "stacked" ring orientation • most Persian weaves are modern •not used as armour • most have both left and right handed versions • rings become stacked and form pairs, produces a thicker, tighter weave Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail Persian Weave Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail Persian Weave •Viper Scale Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail Other • newer weaves or patterns • hybrids of other patterns •combined with other techniques, including beads Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail Other • Mobius Ball Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Types of Chain Mail Other • Barrel Weave Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design On-line Resources Marilyn Gardiner Booth 2348 www.marilyngardiner.com • Canadian, based in Waterloo • Teaches in Toronto at BeadFX and Bead- Junction and conferences • Chain Mail kits, rings, tools, and all supplies • Free tutorials Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Website M.A.I.L. (Maille Artisans International League) • www.mailleartisans.org • International group of artisans promoting all aspects of chain mail • Amazing resource – History, techniques, patterns and more Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Book & Website • Anne Mitchell • www.annemitchell.net • author and chain mail designer Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Book & Website Dylon Whyte • www.artofchainmail.com • Canadian author and chain mail designer Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Books Chains by Becky – Canadian Publication – Not widely available – By Helen & Becky Goga Spiral bound: 70 pages Publisher: HGSJ, 2006 Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Magazines • Step-by-Step Wirework • Art Jewelry • Jewelry Artist • Bead & Button • Beadwork – Quarterly or – every two months Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Rings Where to get them? –In the kit! or – Buy rings according to pattern or weave directions or – Make the rings! Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Making Rings What kind of wire is used? • base metals, precious metals, alloys – gold (red, yellow, pink, green, white) –gold plate – platinum – silver - fine, sterling, Argentium – copper & enamelled copper –brass –bronze Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Making Rings – niobium & anodized niobium – titanium & anodized titanium – steel variations –aluminium (anodized, bright, etched, plain); – nickel –rubber Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Making Rings Shapes of wire? •Round – first choice • square wire • half-round wire •twisted wire • patterned wire Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Making Rings Sizes of Rings? TWO measurements 1. Thickness of wire – measured in mm or Gauge 2. Size of ring is measured by inside diameter of hole in ring (ID-Inside Diameter) Example: Sterling Silver Ring - 0.80 mm (20 gauge) 3.5 mm ID the wire is 0.80 mm or 20 gauge thick the inside diameter (ID) of this ring is 3.5 mm In Canada we use metric measurements Wire in jump rings is measured in mm Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Making Rings • U.S. uses gauge, not mm • 18 gauge wire is 1.024 mm thick • US wire uses American Wire Gauge (AWG), also called Brown & Sharpe. • British system called Imperial Standard Wire Gauge (SWG). Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Making Rings Remember the higher the gauge number - the thinner the wire. Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Making Rings Size Matters! Rings are too big – finished piece is floppy Rings are too small – rings won’t fit inside another as required by pattern Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Making Rings • How to keep track of the measurements? www.convert-me.com • Measure it with Calipers Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Making Rings • Wire temper – How hard is the wire? •Three general tempers –hard –half-hard – dead soft • Most rings are half-hard Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Making Rings Wrap wire tightly around a mandrel – Knitting needles are good and in a variety of specific sizes – Carefully cut coil • With saw or snips Takes Practice! Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Making Rings Better method! More consistent , less painful! Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Or… Buy Rings! Packaged rings available in many: •Sizes •Metals • Shapes • Quantities, –by the dozen, – or by the ounce Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Tools Pliers – 2 sets – Flat surface with no teeth – Teeth will mar or mark the metal – Metal or nail file Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Tools • Flush cutters to cut wire Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Tools Crimpers for crimping wire jewellery Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Tools • Round nose for wire wrapping Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Tools How to choose tools: Try them! They need to feel good in your hands. Consider: • Padding on grip • Length of handles •Tension in tool Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design To start - you need •Pattern • Rings •Tools • Good light • Comfortable work surface You are ready! Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design How to open a ring Hold the jump ring between 2 pairs of pliers, with the jump ring opening at the top. The pliers should be angled in a “tent” shape, with the pliers’ tips below the opening. Rotate your wrists. Rotate your dominant hand towards you, and the non-dominant hand away from you. Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design How to open a ring Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Repeat as needed! Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Finishing touches Clasps •Toggle •Box •Others Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Instructions & kits Evaluate the instructions • Are they suited to how YOU learn best? • Diagrams or photos? • Overview to tell you how the instructions are organized? • Broken up into sections or chunks? • Lots of step-by-step details? • Cues to tell you what to look at in the photos or diagrams? • Simple, clear language? Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Keys to success • Have the tools appropriate for the task • Excellent lighting • Good workspace – table or work surface • Magnifiers if needed • Work carefully, paying attention to closure of each ring; check each ring closure for sharp edges & file if needed (superfine emery board, nail file) Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design Thanks! Sue Henry For Marilyn Gardiner Design Kits, tools, supplies, books, patterns, rings for Chain Mail www.marilyngardiner.com Bead Oasis - Fall 2008 Marilyn Gardiner Design.
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