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Univerdidade De São Paulo Instituto De Psicologia UNIVERDIDADE DE SÃO PAULO INSTITUTO DE PSICOLOGIA Tânia Biazioli A quebra entre o passado e o futuro na cozinha caipira São Paulo 2018 Obra da contracapa Almeida Júnior Itu, SP, 1850 - Piracicaba, SP, 1899 Cozinha caipira, 1895 óleo sobre tela 63 x 87 cm Acervo da Pinacoteca do Estado de São Paulo, Brasil. Transferência do Museu Paulista, 1947 Crédito fotográfico: Isabella Matheus TÂNIA BIAZIOLI A quebra entre o passado e o futuro na cozinha caipira Versão Corrigida Tese apresentada ao Instituto de Psicologia da Universidade de São Paulo para a obtenção do título de Doutora em Psicologia Social Área de Concentração: Psicologia Social Orientadora: Profa. Titular Sylvia Leser de Mello São Paulo 2018 Aos camponeses, porque sem eles não haveria cozinha brasileira Agradecimentos À Professora Sylvia Leser de Mello pela coragem em aceitar me orientar nesta pesquisa, quando muitos outros se negaram. Ao sociólogo da alimentação, Carlos Alberto Dória, pelos cursos oferecidos sobre cozinha brasileira no Centro de Estudos Culinário Câmara Cascudo e na Escola do Gosto. Às historiadoras da alimentação, Leila Mezan Algranti e Rafaela Basso, pela indicação dos caminhos para o estudo da cozinha paulista no tempo dos bandeirantes. Às professoras de história da alimentação e de cartografia histórica, Leila Mezan Algranti (UNICAMP) e Íris Kantor (USP), que compuseram a banca de qualificação, sugerindo que o estudo se voltasse menos ao passado do que ao presente, menos à História do que à Psicologia. Ao chef de cozinha Rodrigo Oliveira, que gentilmente me indicou um cozinheiro caipira, de modo que a pesquisa começou primeiro dentro de um restaurante antes de encontrar seu caminho na universidade. Ao chef de cozinha Jefferson Rueda, com quem compartilhei os estudos sobre cozinha caipira, o que frutificou no menu Caminhos&Fronteiras. Aos sócios do restaurante Attimo, Marcelo e Ernesto Fernandes, que financiaram o primeiro ano desta pesquisa. À WMcCANN pela criação publicitária do menu Caminhos&Fronteiras. À Mauro Holanda pelas fotografias dos pratos. À Thais Biazioli pelo trabalho sem fim de incluir as imagens do cardápio, dos pratos e dos ingredientes. Ao Rusty Marcellini pelo roteiro gastronômico do caminho velho do ouro em Minas Gerais. Ao sociólogo da alimentação Carlos Alberto Dória e à cozinheira Letícia Massula pelas dicas gastronômicas em Goiás e Pirenópolis. Ao chef de cozinha Paulo Machado, aos professores de gastronomia João Carlos Marques Caldeira e Elson Figueiredo pela viagem gastronômica em Cuiabá e Pantanal. Aos pequenos produtores rurais e especialistas que me indicaram a riqueza do passado esquecido da cozinha dos ingredientes caipira. Ao Gonzalo Barquero, Cerrado Carnes e João Neto pelas carnes de animais silvestres. Ao Danilo Caneppele da Usina de Paraibuna e Carla Polaz do Centro Nacional de Pesquisa e Conservação da Biodiversidade Aquática Continental pelos pescados. Ao Clóvis José de Almeida do Frutos do Brasil, Douglas Bello do Sítio do Bello e Helton Josué Teodoro Muniz do Sítio de Frutas Raras pelas frutas nativas. Ao Jerônimo Villas-Bôas, Klécio Souza Silva, Hermelindo Sandri e Claudia Inês da Silva do Laboratório de Abelhas da USP pelo mel de abelhas sem ferrão. À Jeanne Marie Gagnebin pelo curso sobre a filosofia da história e a indicação dos fragmentos sobre o comer de W. Benjamin. Ao meu psicanalista Marcelo Checchia, que destacou a leitura psicanalítica da gastronomia como sublimação do prazer oral. Aos membros da banca – Sylvia Leser de Mello, Leila Mezan Algranti, João Máximo, Ana Maria Loffredo e Belinda Mandelbaum – pelas belas arguições, cujas sugestões puderam ser incluídas na versão corrigida da tese. Às psicólogas Andrea e Glaucia e assistentes sociais Clauzeane, Janete e Priscila que trabalham comigo no Centro de Atendimento Mutidisciplinar da Regional Criminal da Defensoria Pública por estarem presentes nas minhas ausências para que eu pudesse cursar as disciplinas e escrever a tese. Aos meus amigos por compartilharem os caminhos da pesquisa à mesa. Sinara Costa, Daniele Carli, Carlos Samejima, Raquel Berg, Juliana Peixoto, Joana Santa Cruz, Kaio&Joel, Karina Santos Salvador, Tatiane Fukuda, Patrícia Sinhorini, Fernanda Dias, Daniela Kovaks, Ariane Stolfi. Ao meu pai Fleury – que nasceu no coração da Bahia, na Chapada Diamantina – e à minha mãe Teresa – que nasceu no interior de São Paulo, em área de influência histórica de imigrantes italianos – que me ensinaram o amor em família. Aos meus irmãos por toda a vida compartilhada e às crianças que trouxeram ao mundo, alegrando a vida de família. À Thais&Rodrigo pelo Liam. Ao Fleury&Andrea pela Héloïse e Mathias. À Ísis&Luciano pela Letícia. À Tia Júlia e Karla, à Vanessa&Giorgio, que sempre estão por perto. Este pequeno espaço intemporal no âmago mesmo do tempo [...] não pode ser herdado e recebido do passado, mas apenas indicado; cada nova geração, e na verdade cada novo ser humano, inserindo-se entre um passado infinito e um futuro infinito, deve descobri-lo e, laboriosamente, pavimentá-lo de novo. Hannah Arendt, A Quebra entre o Passado e o Futuro A descoberta de uma nova receita culinária é mais importante para a humanidade do que a descoberta de uma nova estrela. Brillat-Savarin, A Fisiologia do Gosto RESUMO BIAZIOLI, Tânia. A quebra entre o passado e o futuro na cozinha caipira. Tese de Doutorado em Psicologia Social, Instituto de Psicologia, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2018. É este um estudo sobre a quebra entre o passado e o futuro na cozinha caipira. Mais uma vez vemos agora surgir a lembrança da cozinha caipira, após um longo esquecimento do paulista da roça. Sérgio Buarque de Holanda nos mostrou que a origem da cozinha paulista no tempo dos bandeirantes estava no caminho que convida ao movimento, dando margem à maior influência dos hábitos alimentares indígenas sobre os portugueses. O sustento da viagem ao sertão eram os produtos da caça, pesca e coleta. Ao longo dos caminhos, os paulistas ainda plantavam as roças de milho e feijão. Antonio Candido observou a crise da cozinha caipira, diante do processo de modernização do país. Assim, ocorreu a manutenção da dieta básica e a perda da dieta complementar devido às transformações no mundo do caipira. O feijão com toucinho e a farinha de milho puderam se manter vivos no presente. O que caiu no esquecimento do passado foram os produtos da caça, pesca e coleta. O objetivo deste estudo é reconstruir o passado da cozinha caipira no presente, por meio de uma pesquisa de campo. A hipótese deste estudo é que a moderna cozinha brasileira, na procura incessante do novo, busca inspiração no passado colonial não para ser relançada outra vez à escala nacional e sim à escala mundial. O menu Caminhos & Fronteiras, fruto dos estudos compartilhados com o chef de cozinha Jefferson Rueda, pretende homenagear as origens da cozinha caipira. A criação dos pratos nos levará às viagens ao sertão, pelas antigas capitanias de Minas Gerais, Mato Grosso e Goiás, apresentando os ingredientes das terras paulistas, cuja produção será compreendida por meio das entrevistas com os pequenos produtores rurais. Recolher o tesouro perdido não só do milho, feijão e carne de porco, mas também das carnes de caça, pescados, palmitos, frutas silvestres e mel de abelhas nativas poderá contribuir para construir a ponte entre o passado e o futuro na cozinha caipira. Mas será que a perda da tradição na cozinha caipira significa a perda do passado? A questão da memória e da história benjaminiana irá guiar a busca por uma nova relação com o passado. O estudo chega ao fim com uma leitura psicanalítica que irá compreender a gastronomia como uma sublimação do prazer oral. Palavras-chave: Culinária. Caipira. Memória e Esquecimento. Walter Benjamin. Sigmund Freud. ABSTRACT BIAZIOLI, Tânia. The break between the past and future in the Caipira cuisine. PhD Thesis in Social Psychology, Instituto de Psicologia, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2018. This is a study about the break between the past and the future in the Caipira cuisine. Once again, we currently see the remembrance of the Caipira cuisine arise, after a long forgetting of the ‘paulista da roça’. Sérgio Buarque de Holanda showed us that the origin of the Paulista culinary in the age of the bandeirantes was in the path that invites for movement, allowing for the bigger influence of natives’ eating habits over the Portuguese ones. The sustenance on the journey inwards was the goods from hunting, fishing and foraging. Along the way, the paulistas also planted corn and bean crops. Antonio Candido observed the crisis of the Caipira cuisine in face of the modernization process the country underwent. Thus, preservation of the basic diet and loss of the complementary diet took place due to transformations in the world of the Caipira. Beans with bacon and corn flour were able to keep themselves alive in the present. What fell into forgetting were the goods from hunting, fishing and foraging. The aim of this study is to reconstruct the past of the Caipira cuisine in the present through a field research. This study’s hypothesis is that modern Brazilian cuisine, in the ceaseless quest for the new, seeks inspiration in the colonial past in order not to be relaunched in national scale, but in global scale. The Caminhos&Fronteiras menu, fruit of shared studies with Chef Jefferson Rueda, sets out to pay homage to the origins of the Caipira cuisine. The creation of dishes is to take us to the voyages inwards, throughout the ancient states of Minas Gerais, Mato Grosso and Goiás, presenting the ingredients of Paulistas lands, whose production will be understood by the means of interviews with small producers. Recollecting the lost treasure not only from the corn, beans and pork meat, but also game, fish, hearts of palm, wild fruit and indigenous bees honey may contribute towards bridging the gap between the past and future in the Caipira cuisine.
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