From taco carts and noodle stalls to hawker markets and gelaterias, it’s on the street that you’ll find the heart of a cuisine and its culture. With these 100 authentic recipes, Lonely Planet delivers the planet’s freshest, tastiest street-food flavours direct to your kitchen. 1st edition US $14.99 UK £9.99 lonelyplanet.com Where to find it & how to make it JUSTIN FOULKES © LONELY PLANET CONTENTS Introduction 6 Burek Bosnia & Hercegovina 40 Gimbap South Korea 74 Ćevapčići Croatia 42 Gözleme Turkey 76 savoury Ceviche de corvina Peru 44 Gyros Greece 78 Acarajé Brazil 12 Chicken 65 India 46 Hainanese chicken rice Arancino Italy 14 Chilli crab Singapore 48 Malaysia & Singapore 80 Arepas Venezuela 16 Chivito al pan Uruguay 50 Hollandse Nieuwe haring Bakso Indonesia 18 Chole batura India 52 The Netherlands 82 Balık ekmek Turkey 20 Choripán Argentina 54 Hot dog USA 84 Bamboo rice Taiwan 22 Cicchetti Italy 56 Jerked pork Jamaica & Banh mi Vietnam 24 Cocktel de Camarón Mexico 58 Caribbean Islands 86 Baozi China 26 Conch Bahamas 60 Juane Peru 88 Bhelpuri India 28 Cornish pasty England 62 Kati roll India 90 Breakfast burrito USA 30 Currywurst Germany 64 Kelewele Ghana 92 Brik Tunisia 32 Elote Mexico 66 Khao soi Thailand 94 Bsarra Morocco 34 Falafel Israel 68 Knish USA 96 Bún cha Vietnam 36 Fuul mudammas Egypt 70 Kuaytiaw Thailand 98 Bunny chow South Africa 38 Garnaches Belize 72 Kushari Egypt 100 Lángos Hungary 102 Maine lobster roll USA 104 Mangue verte Senegal 106 Pizza al taglio Italy 134 Takoyaki Japan 164 Egg waffleHong Kong 194 Man’oushe Lebanon 108 Poisson cru Tamale Mexico 166 Gelato Italy 196 Meat pie Australia 110 French Polynesia 136 Tea eggs Taiwan & China 168 Halo halo Philippines 198 Mohinga Myanmar (Burma) 112 Poutine Canada 138 Walkie-talkies South Africa 170 Hotteok South Korea 200 Murtabak Malaysia & Pupusa El Salvador 140 Yangrou chuan China 172 Ice kacang Singapore Singapore 114 Red red Ghana 142 Zapiekanka Poland 174 & Malaysia 202 Otak-otak Singapore, Roasted chestnuts Jalebis India 204 Malaysia & Indonesia 116 Europe 144 sweet Martabak manis Oyster cake Hong Kong 118 Rolex Uganda 146 Açai na tigela Brazil 178 Indonesia 206 Pane, Panelle e Crocchè Sabih Israel 148 BeaverTails pastry Canada 180 Masala chai India 208 Italy 120 Samsas Central Asia 150 Bliny Russia 182 Mithaa paan India 210 Pastizzi Malta 122 Sarawak laksa Malaysia 152 Chimney cake Hungary 184 Sfenj Morocco 212 Peso pizza Cuba 124 SfihaLebanon 154 Churros Spain 186 Phat kaphrao Thailand 126 Som tam Thailand 156 Crepes France 188 Glossary 214 Phat thai Thailand 128 Spring roll China 158 Daulat ki chaat India 190 Authors 218 Pho Vietnam 130 Stinky tofu Taiwan 160 Douhua China, Index 220 Pierogi Poland 132 © TIM E WHITE, MATT MUNRO, MARK READ © LONELY PLANET IMAGES Tacos Mexico 162 Singapore & Taiwan 192 Acknowledgements 224 4 5 INTRODUCTION BY Tom Parker Bowles You never forget the first time. Mine took place, the display. Neatly arranged around it, like small nearly 20 years back, on an insalubrious backstreet satellites circling the sun, were metal bowls filled with in Bangkok’s Patpong. The experience was brief, and ingredients of every hue. fairly inglorious, but remains seared in my soul forever. As a street-food virgin, I wasn’t exactly sure where One taste was all it took. The stall was little more than to start. A friend more experienced in the ways of a pushcart with a bright yellow awning. A tattered the road had told me about som tam. ‘Just look for advert for Carnation milk hung precariously from the the stall with the fat, shiny green fruit. And someone side while the owner, a small woman in a Coca-Cola pounding the hell out of their mortar.’ So I giggled cap, gossiped incessantly with a friend perched on a nervously and pointed at the plump papaya. The lady wobbly plastic stool. Workspace was severely limited, stopped her chat and smiled back. ‘You want farang as a huge wooden pestle and mortar dominated hot? Or Thai hot?’ she asked as she threw a handful of green beans into the dark wooden depths. ‘Umm, Thai hot,’ I muttered, puffing out my chest. ‘OK,’ she answered, adding what seemed like a suicidal amount of scud chillies, along with a few cloves of garlic. She pounded and mixed with a technique well honed by experience. I was mesmerised. Dried shrimp and peanuts were dropped in. Pound, pound, mix, mix, mix. Then palm sugar and tomatoes. Pound, pound, mix, mix. And lime juice and fish sauce. Pound, pound, mix. Then a mass of green papaya, cut into the thinnest of strands. One final mix, and it was dumped onto a polystyrene tray and handed over. I took a bite. The first taste was sharp and fresh, then salty, from the chewy dried shrimp. Sweetness came next, underscoring and smoothing every discordant note. Tomatoes jostled with peanuts and crisp green beans as they swirled around my mouth. An involuntary smile spread across my face. This was food like I’d never tasted before, big, ballsy and beautifully balanced, the sort of thing to restore one’s faith in life, love, the universe…then the chillies hit. Hard. So hard that my eyes flooded with tears, my tongue seemed to swell and I lost the power of speech. Even thinking hurt. MATT MUNRO © LONELY PLANET IMAGES, © TIM E WHITE 6 It took a full five minutes for the pain to subside, replaced by that heady endorphin warmth sent in by the body to battle the pain. I looked up. Both ladies were crying. But tears of laughter rather than agony. ‘You like?’ asked one, between fits of hysterics. ‘Yes,’ I managed to mutter. ‘Hell yes.’ Since then, street food has become my obsession. Some travel to drink in the culture, others to lap up the sun. I travel to eat, preferably on the street. Because this is where you’ll find the real soul of a cuisine, somewhere among the taco carts and noodle stalls and baskets of herbs. Michelin stars hold little interest, with the rarest of exceptions. And the tourist restaurants, with their bland, dreary, ‘safe’ menus fill me with gloom. No, my first stop is always the street. The scent of wood fires and burning fat, the glare of artificial lights, the natural hubbub of regalement, and proper good cheer. No foams, or smears or strangely shaped plates. No egos, or supercilious sommeliers or dining rooms with all the atmosphere of a morgue. Just food to make the taste buds sing.Some of the finest things to ever have passed my lips have been eaten standing up, or sitting at the most rickety of roadside tables, surrounded by diesel fumes, cigarette smoke and noise. There was that noodle soup in Luang Prabang, the buffalo broth looking like melted their own view as to what makes the finest tamales, amber, with a depth I can only dream of re-creating. samosas, stinky tofu, laksa or spring rolls. Or those tacos al pastor from the hole in the wall That’s not to say that everything cooked up on in Mexico City – thin shavings of pork doner kebab, the sidewalk is edible gold. Far from it. There’s a lot mixed with hot sauce, and fresh salsa, and lime. Then of tired, dirty, grease-soaked muck about. But that’s wrapped in a steaming taco. Baozi (Chinese steamed easily avoided: local recommendations are worth buns) in Shanghai, oyster cakes in Bangkok and panelle their weight in spice, and always look for queues. (chickpea-flour fritters), all soft, salty crunch, sold High turnover not only means they must be getting on a Palermo street corner. I could go on and on and something right, but that the food’s cooked fresh on. Street food is the most democratic grub in the too, as there isn’t time for it to sit around. Find a busy world, a place where politician eats alongside peasant, stall, watch what the locals are ordering and when and flavours are unashamedly bold. I like the fact that you arrive at the front, just smile and point. The only countries with a strong street-food culture – Mexico, phrase you really need is ‘thank you’. Thailand, China, Malaysia and Vietnam, to name but This is a book dedicated to some of the greatest MATT MUNRO © LONELY PLANET IMAGES a few – take it very seriously indeed. Everyone has eating in the world. Gastronomic bliss awaits. 9 SAVOURY SALVADOR, BAHIA, BRAZIL MAKES APPROX 10–12 Acarajé PAT TIES A tantalising taste of Africa in the New World, these shrimp- stuffed black-eyed pea fritters fried in traditional Bahian dendê (reddish palm oil) are Brazil’s most beloved street food. You’ll need Method 400g (14oz) dried black-eyed 1 Skin the peas by rubbing and breaking them peas, soaked overnight in up or by quickly pulsing in a food processor, plenty of cold water resoaking in water and letting the loosened 1 onion, roughly chopped skins come up to the surface. 1 tsp salt dendê oil for deep-frying 2 Discard the skins and drain the peas. dried shrimp hot pepper sauce and 3 Using a food processor, puree the peas with chopped green tomatoes the onion and salt into a smooth mixture. to serve 4 Divide the mixture into equal size balls TIP Using dendê oil will give and flatten each ball into the shape of a the fritters their characteristic hamburger patty. red hue, but if you do not have a Brazilian grocer handy, 5 Heat the oil in a deep-fryer or heavy- vegetable or canola oil is an bottomed saucepan.