the Inside this issue: Norwegian See Peer Gynt in his natural habitat at Gålå american story on page 22 Volume 128, #2 • January 27, 2017 Est. May 17, 1889 • Formerly Norwegian American Weekly, Western Viking & Nordisk Tidende $3 USD Get out of town! (with our Travel Issue)

Itineraries, trip planning, tips for easy traveling, and much more!

What’s inside? « En reise på tusen mil begynner med ett skritt. » Nyheter / News 2-3 Stein Hoff, traveler and extreme rower – Laozi Opinion 4-5 Taste of Norway 6-7 Victoria Hofmo Business 8-9 Brooklyn, N.Y. Research & Science 10-11 Last November I had the opportunity to meet a Unfortunately, their success coincided with that of Travel 12-17 dynamic duo of adventurers, or as they prefer to be Norwegian explorer Fridtjof Nansen and his exploits Norway near you 18-19 called, travelers: Stein Hoff and his partner on the seas in the icy wilderness, which usurped all international Norwegian Heritage 20-21 and in life, Diana. attention. This past May, Stein set out to beat Harbo Hoff’s most recent journey was inspired by two and Samuelsen’s record as a lone rower, striking out Arts & Entertainment 22-23 Norwegians, Gabriel “Frank” Samuelsen and George to challenge himself and to give tribute to these two Sports 24-25 Harbo, who had emigrated to America in the late 1800s. forgotten Norwegian greats. Norsk Språk 26-27 Harbo and Samuelsen decided to create a name for themselves by doing something extraordinary— Victoria Hofmo: Tell us a little about your early years. rowing across the Atlantic. Embarking in 1896 with Stein Hoff: I’m from Sandefjord. The main income $1 = NOK 8.372 a compass, one sextant, a copy of the Nautical Alma­ when I grew up was whaling in the Antarctic. I grew updated 01/23/2017 nac, and little else, they succeeded a mere 55 days lat­ up with ships and boating all around me. I started row­ In comparison er when they reached the Scilly Isles. But they never 12/23/2016 8.7042 achieved the great fame or fortune they desired. See > hoff, page 20 07/23/2016 8.5590 01/23/2016 8.7425 Photo: Sarah Gerrity 2 • January 27, 2017 Nyheter fra Norge theNorwegianamerican Nyheter Solberg satser på epidemi-vaksine Nordmenn vil reise mer i år Angela Merkel, Erna Sol­ Nordmenn planlegger ferieturene tidlig­ ere enn før og vil reise mer enn i fjor. berg og Bill Gates skal Likevel holdes det totale feriebudsjettet investere i en grunnstoff­ stabilt. Det viser en befolkningsunder­ søkelse fra Virke Reise som tar tempen bank som skal brukes både på reiselivsnæringa og nordmenns til å lage vaksiner mot ferieplaner. — Reiselysten blant folk flest er tiltakende, og det ligger an til å bli et fremtidige epidemier godt år både for utenlandsreiser og reiser i Norge, sier Line Endresen Normann, Bjørn Haugan direktør for Virke Reise Norge. I gjen­ VG nomsnitt legger norske husstander opp til et feriebudsjett på 41.850 kroner i år. Det ble kjent på World Economic Fo­ Det er omtrent på nivå med i fjor. Nest­ rum 18. januar, da statsminister Erna Solberg en to tredeler planlegger sommerferie blant annet møtte verdens rikeste mann, Bill i utlandet, 30 prosent vil være på hytta, Gates. mens nesten like mange vil holde seg Sammen med Japan og India tar Norge, hjemme, viser undersøkelsen. Sju av ti Tyskland og Gates Foundation og stiftelsen oppgir at formålet med sommerferien er å Wellcome Trust initiativ til Coalition for Foto: Christian Krakenes / NRK være sammen med familie og venner, og Epidemic Preparedness Innovations (CEPI), Bill Gates og Erna Solberg møtte pressen i Davos for å fortelle om et nytt felles prosjekt. for nordmenn er aktiviteter en viktig del som samlet får en oppstartsinvestering i av ferien. Fotturer og naturopplevelser CEPI på 4 milliarder kroner. topper aktivitetslisten,­ og én av fem vil — Epidemier tar liv og ødelegger sam­ — Ebola og Zika viste at verden er tra­ mange år når det gjelder helseforebygging opp­leve musikk, konserter og festivaler. funn på en måte som bare kan sammenlignes gisk uforberedt på å oppdage lokale utbrudd og vaksiner og er veldig glad for at de er Én av ti vil fiske eller jakte. Ferielandet med krig og naturkatastrofer. Et utbrudd kan og reagere raskt nok til å hindre dem fra å med, sier han. Norge har opplevd en kraftig vekst de raskt spres over hele verden. Global innsatser bli globale pandemier. Uten investeringer i Microsoft-gründeren har satser deler av siste tre årene. Alle reiselivsaktørene for­ derfor helt nødvendig for å sikre best mulig forsk­ning og utvikling, vil vi fortsatt ikke formuen på utvikling av vaksiner, blant an­ venter vekst også i 2017. beredskap. Derfor lanseres nå et nytt inter­ være forberedt når vi står overfor de neste net for å hindre barnedødelighet. (NRK) nasjonalt initiativ for utvikling av vaksiner trussel. Initiativ tas for å forebygge fremtidige mot epidemiske sykdommer. Sekretariatet — Muligheten til å raskt utvikle og le­ epidemier, à la det flere afrikanske land opp­ Norske politikere advares mot hacking vil ligge i Oslo. Regjeringen legger opp til vere vaksiner når nye «ukjente» sykdommer Hackingen av Det demokratiske parti­ å støtte arbeidet med en milliard kroner i en dukker opp, gir håp å gå raskere å hindre ut­ Se > vaksiner, side 26 et i USA har ført til at europeiske land, første fase, sier statsminister Erna Solberg. brudd, redde liv og hindre katastrofale øko­ Norge inkludert, forbereder seg på lig­ Hun sier investeringen må behandles og nomiske konsekvenser, sier han. English Synopsis: Erna Solberg and Bill Gates are støttes av flertallet i Stortinget. Gates sier Norge er til å stole på. working with other leaders to launch an epidemic pre­ nende forsøk. — Alle som har en rolle paredness initiative with its headquarters in Oslo. i valget i Norge i 2017, fra tillitsvalgte Gates forklarer slik hvorfor de er med. — Vi har samarbeidet med Norge i og ansatte i partiene til politikerne selv, bør ha i bakhodet at de kan være interes­ sante å påvirke. Den vanligste måten å bli hacket på, er via e-post. Vær derfor var­ Brev fra Mister statsborgerskap som når du klikker på lenker i e-poster, sier informasjons­sjef Trond Øvstedal i UDI vurderer å til­ NSM. Forfatter Andrej Soldatov står bak Mette-Marit en ny bok om russisk hacking, «The Red bakekaller 500 norske Web», og mener Europa må forberede seg på lignende fremstøt. — De som står bak statsborgerskap hackingen av Demokratenes server for­ til presse ventet ikke at det skulle bli så mye snakk Stella Bugge & Oda Leraan Skjetne om dem, og all oppmerksomheten de fikk Norske medier bes hol­ VG har inspirert dem til å tro at de kan gjenta de seg unna når Mette- «suksessen» i andre land. Hvor mange som eventuelt vil få sitt (Aftenposten) Marits sønn Marius nå statsborgerskap tilbakekalt er ikke klart. Det fyller 20 og flytter til USA kommer frem i Sylvi Listhaugs (FrP) svar til Gravearbeid førte til DAB-trøbbel Stortinget for en måned siden. En knapp uke etter at FM-nettet ble sluk­ Sveinung Berg Bentzrød — UDI vurderer for tiden å tilbakekalle ket i Nordland, opplyste politiet i Salten & Stein Erik Kirkebøen norsk statsborgerskap i ca. 500 saker. Det er at fylket var uten DAB-dekning 18. janu­ Aftenposten ikke mulig å forutsi hvor mange personer ar kveld. Også i andre steder av landet var som vil miste norsk statsborgerskap på grunn det DAB-problemer på grunn av kabel­ I et åpent brev på Kongehusets hjemme­ av disse vurderingene, svarte Listhaug på et Foto: Gøran Bohlin / VG brudd. Problemene oppsto i 2015-tiden side skriver kronprinsessen at sønnen Marius skriftlig spørsmål fra Kari Henriksen (Ap). Mahad Abib Mahamud har bodd i Norge i 17 år. og vart i om lag tre timer. Om lag fem Borg Høiby «ble et symbol på det uvanlige 13. januar fortalte TV2 historien om prosent av befolkningen fordelt omkring i valget vi gjorde da vi giftet oss, samtidig skal bioingeniøren Mahad Abib Mahamud (30) hele landet, bortsett fra Oslo og Akershus, han ikke bære offentlige plikter som sine som har bodd i Norge i 17 år, men som UDI ble rundt 65 tilbakekalt i fjor. ble rammet. Det tilsvarer om lag 235.000 søsken. Han skal ikke ha en offentlig rolle og vil kaste ut av landet fordi de mener han løy Fra 2012 og frem til midten av desember husstander. Norkring-direktør Torbjørn er ikke en offentlig person.» på asylsøknaden sin. De hevder at han egent­ hadde myndighetene registrert at ni personer Ø. Teigen forteller til NRK at feilen Anledningen til at hun påpeker dette lig kommer fra nabolandet Djibouti. hadde returnert til sitt hjemland etter å ha skyldtes flere fiberkabelbrudd. — Dette er at Marius fredag 13. januar fylte 20 år, Saken har engasjert tusenvis på sosiale mistet sitt norske statsborgerskap. I samme skjedde på tross av at vi har tre parallelle og at han skal flytte til USA. Her ber kron­ medier og 15. januar formiddag hadde over periode hadde 118 personer fått sitt stats­ tekniske løsninger. Her sviktet alle de tre prinsessen om at norsk presse lar være å 14 000 signert et nettopprop for å la Maha­ borgerskap tilbakekalt uten at det var regis­ løsningene etter hverandre, og det var en følge Marius tett. mud beholde statsborgerskapet. trert at de hadde returnert. Dette er personer gravefeil som til slutt tok den siste løs­ Som en bakgrunn for sin anmodning Toppblogger Sophie Elise har gått til som kan ha forlatt Norge på egen hånd, uten ningen, sier Teigen. På dagtid sviktet den skriver kronprinsessen om de første årene frontalangrep mot Listhaug etter at det ble å melde fra til norske myndigheter, opplyste første fiberkabelen som ligger i Oslo. På som mor til Marius, da hun var kjæreste med kjent at Mahamud sendes ut, men UDI opp­ Listhaug til Stortinget. grunn av frost kunne ikke denne repareres kronprins Haakon: lyste at de fattet vedtak i saken i 2015. Sylvi Ingeborg Grimsmo, kommunikasjons­ umiddelbart. De resterende to kablene lå i «Da Marius var liten hadde vi stort sett Listhaug ble først Innvandrings- og integre­ samme grøft og ble derfor begge offer for ringsminister 16. desember det året. Se > statsborgerskap, side 26 en og samme gravemaskin. Ifølge­ Nor­ Se > kronprinsesse, side 26 UDI skriver også at vedtaket i saken kring skyldtes uhellet «en menneskelig bygger på omfattende dokumentasjon. English Synopsis: The Directorate of Immigration is svikt». English Synopsis: Crown Princess Mette-Marit has Listhaug viser til at fra 2012 og frem til considering recalling the citizenship of 500 people. (NRK) asked the press to allow her son Marius to have a pri­ 16. desember hadde totalt 135 personer blitt The case of 30-year-old bioengineer Mahad Abib Ma­ vate life as he turns 20 and moves to the U.S. fratatt sitt norske statsborgerskap. Av disse hamud has brought a lot of attention to the issue. theNorwegianamerican News January 27, 2017 • 3 Oslo to test e-buses Breivik’s rights This week in brief case explained Sorry world, you can’t watch Skam outside Six new electric buses will be used in Oslo’s of Norway anymore A human rights appeal A dispute over music rights threatens to mass transit traffic starting this November derail the runaway international success involving Norwegian mass of the Norwegian teen series Skam. shooter Anders Behring NRK’s P3 channel announced re­ cently that they had “received a request Breivik faces the European from IFPI Norge to immediately geo­ Court of Human Rights block the series so that it can only be seen in Norway,” the broadcaster’s lawyer, Kari Anne Lang-Ree, said. William Henderson IFPI Norge is the Norwegian branch The Local of the International Federation of the Phonographic Industry, which represents Breivik, who killed 77 people in attacks the global music industry. in Oslo and Utøya in July 2011, is serving his NRK’s contract with IFPI is for airing sentence in Telemark prison at Skien. Just as the program domestically but also covers his conviction and sentencing gained much making it available to Norwegians abroad. Photo: Ruter international attention, so did the judgment Skam’s surprise success has challenged the One of the new buses, a six-wheel articulated bus, about 60 ft. long. of Oslo District Court in April 2016 that scope of the contract, according to P3’s re­ Breivik’s human rights had been violated. port: “What the music industry is reacting Soon after the Oslo judgment was deliv­ M. Michael Brady to now is that there are far too many others ered, an appeal was launched by the Norwe­ Asker, Norway who are watching it without NRK having gian Ministry of Justice and Public Security. paid for the international broadcast rights,” On January 11, Ruter, the Oslo Public ordinary four-wheel, 39 ft. long city bus size The Oslo judgment dealt with arguments Lang-Ree said. Transport Authority, presented its plan for and have smaller batteries to fit more seats based mainly on two sections of the European (The Local) zero-emission buses in mass transit traffic. for passengers. Another two are the same Convention on Human Rights: Article 3 (pro­ Six electric buses have been purchased. Af­ size but have larger batteries for longer rang­ hibition of ill-treatment) and Article 8 (right Snus use soars among young ter facilities for their maintenance and charg­ es between charges. These buses are made to respect for private and family life). In spite ing have been completed, this November by Solaris Bus & Coach of Bolechowo, Po­ of what was widely reported at the time, the Norwegian women they will be put on three routes in the city, land. The final two are of the articulated six- real issues in the case were related to his soli­ Daily smoking is a declining habit in Nor­ for two years of testing. wheel, 59 ft. long size, and will be tested on tary confinement and strip searching. way; today only 13% of the population The six electric buses are of three differ­ are daily smokers. But the use of snus ent configurations. Two of the buses are of See > buses, page 5 See > breivik, page 4 has gone dramatically up, particularly among young Norwegian women. One of six women aged 16-34 are daily snusers, almost as many as men of the same age, according to Norway Statistics. US Israel embassy move threat Snus is a moist pulverized tobacco that originated in the early 1700s in Swe­ den as a variant of dry snuff. It is not in­ to Oslo Peace Agreements haled up a nostril as is snuff but placed un­ der the upper lip for longer periods of time. That there now are almost as many women as men snusers in Norway sug­ Michael Sandelson & Charlotte Bryan gests observance of the historical tradi­ The Foreigner tion of dry snuff sniffing. Snuff was first introduced in the 16th century in France The PLO threatens to revoke its recog­ by diplomat Jean Nicot, attached to the nition of Israel if Donald Trump moves the court of King Henry II. He recommended U.S. embassy from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem. it to Catherine de Medici as a remedy for Sources on Palestine and Israel tell The For­ migraines. She became a daily user; her eigner that sagacity and caution are needed. habit then was taken up by upper class “One of the measures we are consider­ Frenchwomen as it seemed more socially ing seriously is the issue of mutual recogni­ acceptable than smoking. tion between the PLO (Palestine Liberation (Michael Brady / Asker, Norway) Organization) and Israel. [It] is not valid any more doing this,” senior Palestinian negotia­ Norway near top of Big Mac Index tor Mohammed Shtayyeh told reporters. And in a letter to incoming U.S. Presi­ Invented in 1986 as a light-hearted guide to purchasing power parity, the Big Mac dent Donald Trump, Palestinian Leader Photo: Krokodyl / Wikimedia Commons Mahmoud Abbas has warned that this “will The current U.S. embassy in Tel Aviv. Moving it may cause disruption in the region. Index compares the cost of a McDonald’s likely have disastrous impact on the peace Big Mac burger across the world. process, on the two-state solution, and on Using the U.S. dollar as the base rate, the stability and security of the entire region, rangements (DoP), also referred to as the Trump’s announcement to the American Is­ the 2017 index showed a Big Mac in Nor­ since Israel’s decision to annex East Jerusa­ Oslo Peace Accord, initialed during a secret rael Public Affair Committee lobbying group way to cost $5.67 (49 kroner) compared lem contradicts with international law.” ceremony at the Norwegian Government in the middle of his election campaign last with $5.06 in the U.S., meaning the kro­ For the first time, Israel and the PLO an­ Guest House in the Norwegian capital. year. “We will move the American embassy ne is overvalued by 12 percent. The ex­ nounced formal mutual recognition in 1993, Chief Palestinian negotiator Abu Ala and to the eternal capital of the Jewish people, Je­ change rate that would equalize the price when Israeli Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin his Israeli counterpart Uri Savir signed the rusalem—and we will send a clear signal that is 9.68 kroner to the dollar. and PLO chairman Yasser Arafat signed the accord, which was witnessed by then Norwe­ there is no daylight between America and our Norway was surpassed only by Swit­ historic Oslo Peace Accord (Oslo I). gian Foreign Minister Johan Jørgen Holst. most reliable ally, the state of Israel,” he said. zerland, where a Big Mac costs $6.35. August 1993 saw the Declaration of Speculation about the decision to move Sweden, Venezuela, and Brazil were the Principles on Interim Self-Government Ar­ the U.S. Embassy arose following Donald See > israel, page 11 only other countries to have pricier burg­ ers than the States. According to this “burgernomics,” the euro and the pound This week’s news from Norway is brought to you through partnerships with: are undervalued by 19.7 percent and 26.3 percent respectively, said The Economist. Although Switzerland has topped the index for a few years running, Norway had the world’s most expensive Big Macs as recently as 2014. www.thelocal.no & theforeigner.no (The Local) 4 • January 27, 2017 Opinion theNorwegianamerican

< breivik An opinion column about current issues in From page 3 Norway and the United States In its appeal, the Norwegian Ministry of Join the conversation! Justice and Public Security will use ECHR On the EDGE cases to try to persuade the appeal court that Breivik’s rights have not been violated. Media and terrorism Solitary confinement One of these cases is that of Ahmad and Others v United Kingdom (2012), which in­ Malin C. A. Nikolaisen volves applicants who were facing terrorism Denver, Colo. charges in the U.S. and raised concerns about the conditions they would face if extradited. We live in a world overwhelmed The ECHR ruled that isolation in prison with information, domestically and in­ would not immediately constitute inhuman ternationally, topped with an incredibly treatment. It said: “The particular conditions, busy everyday life. Media is important the stringency of the measure, its duration, the to inform the public on the happenings in objective pursued, and its effect on the person the world, and we often depend on media concerned had to be taken into account.” to comprehend what is going on. One of the arguments put forward related However, the notion of free press in to the specific conditions in the “super-max” countries such as the U.S. and Norway U.S. federal facility at ADX Florence. The is also a vital organ for transnational ter­ ECHR noted that “although inmates are con­ rorists. Extremist groups use media to fined to their cells for the vast majority of the ensure that people get an understanding time, a great deal of in-cell stimulation is pro­ of their cause, to assemble new recruits, vided.” The ruling allowed the extraditions. to receive funding, and to spread fear. The case of Ramirez Sanchez v France Media is highly regarded in our society (2006) was also decided by the ECHR. San­ but should approach terrorism more care­ chez endured isolation for eight years—nota­ fully when considering its effect. I am “World news” Schot, De Volkskrant, Netherlands / CagleCartoons.com bly longer than that experienced by Breivik. not saying that media should overall stop Sanchez had no contact with other prisoners covering terrorism, but they should be ut­ but was allowed visits from family and law­ terly cautious when doing so because we rorism. Showing photos of a terrorist, or a often than previously, and more travel to yers. The ECHR ruled that this meant his be­ know that terrorism thrives on generating video of a hostage being tortured over and potentially vulnerable areas. Are Norwe­ ing held in isolation did not violate Article 3. terror. It is important to understand that over again—just to get more viewers—is un­ gian Embassies equipped to handle this?” media and terrorism are in a mutually necessary. People do not need digital media This is not only creating negative stigma Repeat strip searching beneficial relationship where both parts to understand the seriousness of terrorist ac­ around those countries but also may en­ Breivik was strip-searched after visits will gain what they ultimately seek—au­ tions. However, showing portraits of terror­ courage potential recruits to go there. to an exercise yard and when transferred be­ dience and support. ists or their actions, repeatedly, on any sort of Another Norwegian newspaper, Ber­ tween prison and police custody. On some Mass media has become a play­ media is a win for them. This is exactly what gens Tidende, published a timeline of occasions female prison staff were present. ground for terrorists to recruit new mem­ they are seeking, and it encourages people the Brussels airport attack with dreadful The ruling that Breivik’s rights had been bers through personal and public web­ to join their cause. Terrorists are depending photos and videos. Do we really need violated mainly cited the case of Van der Ven sites, discussion forums, social media, on countries with freedom of press to spread digital media to create an illustration in v Netherlands (2003) on this point. This case and evening news. The media should their story, all over the world. our heads of what had just happened at involved weekly strip searches, which were revise its use of sensationalized news Media can change this trend by ending this airport? When the source itself, a ter­ found to violate Article 3—however they in­ when covering terrorism, since this is their repetitive news coverage and ceasing rorist or a terrorist group, releases videos volved intrusive internal inspection. more harmful than helpful. We must to use digital media when covering cases of One case not mentioned in the Oslo Dis­ understand that an audience is essential terrorism. For instance, on June 10, 2016, the See > terror, page 5 trict Court judgment was that of S.J. (no.2) for terrorists to spread their ideology. Norwegian newspaper Verdens Gang (VG) v Luxembourg (2013), which involved the Transnational terrorism is heard of on published an article titled “Fearing terror to­ strip search of a prisoner where third par­ Malin Cecilie Andreas- an everyday basis all over the world: if wards popular vacation countries this sum­ sen Nikolaisen, 23, is ties could see him. In this case, the ECHR a terror attack occurs in Norway at this mer.” A list of countries that have experienced from Bergen, Norway, emphasized the absence of any intention to moment, it will spread across continents terrorist attacks the past year is discussed in and currently works as humiliate or debase the prisoner and found faster than the blink of an eye. The fact the article, which includes a video of a popu­ a Campus Safety Of- no violation. that endless media outlets publish photos, lar tourist spot where three people were killed. ficer in Denver, Colo. audio files, and video clips of terrorist ac­ The article is telling us as readers that we She is constantly seek- William Henderson is a Lecturer in Law at tions, then repeatedly show these all over should stay away from countries like Turkey, ing an understanding of Glasgow Caledonian University. This article the news for weeks, does not deter ter­ France, and Tunisia: “Norwegians travel more what is going on in our world. was originally published on The Conversa- tion: theconversation.com/norways-human- rights-appeal-over-the-prison-conditions- The opinions expressed by opinion writers featured in “On the Edge” are not necessarily those of The Norwegian American, and our publication of those views is not an endorsement of them. Comments, suggestions, and complaints about the opinions expressed by the paper’s editorials should be directed to the editor. of-anders-breivik-explained-70160. the Norwegian american’s(secret) plan for personalglobal domina enrichment!tion: shhh... don’t tell! Step 1—send us your Your Name: Norwegian-American ^ Friend’s Name: friend’s address*** Step 2—???* Friend’s Address: Step 3—you PROFIT!** City/State/Zip: * Step 2 is that we send your non-subscriber friend a sample copy of the newspaper (no other nefarious purpose, we promise!) ** If your friend signs up for a year’s subscription, YOU get a free month added to your subscription *** Call (206) 784-4617, email [email protected], or mail 17713 15th Ave NE, #205, Shoreline, WA 98155 theNorwegianamerican Opinion January 27, 2017 • 5

Letters to the Editor theNorwegianamerican Published since May 17, 1889 Do you have something to say? 17713 15th Ave NE, #205, Shoreline, WA 98155 Tel: (206) 784-4617 • Email: [email protected] Write to us at The Norwegian American, Letter to the Editor, 17713 15th Ave NE, #205, Shoreline, WA 98155, or email us at [email protected], subject line Publisher Ragnar Meyer-Knutsen Letter to the Editor. Letters may be edited for style, clarity, or length. Editor-in-chief Emily C. Skaftun [email protected] Assistant Editor / Nyheter, Business, Decorah Posten prizes for new subscriptions. Sports, Travel A unique contribution was the cartoon Molly Jones [email protected] The first issue was dated September 5, series created by Spring Grove, Minnesota, Opinion Editor 1874, under the editor, Brynild Anundsen, farmer, Peter J. Rosendahl, called Han Ola Linn Chloe Hagstrøm [email protected] who in 1864, at the age of 20, immigrated to og Han Per. The strips, beginning in 1918, Taste of Norway Editor Wisconsin from Skien. became one of the paper’s more popular fea­ Daytona Strong [email protected] By 1875 Decorah Posten was more tures. When he died in 1942, Rosendahl had Advertising popular than its two English-language com­ drawn more than 700 cartoons. They continue Ryan Pearson [email protected] petitors in Winneshiek County (Decorah was to be reprinted today (in this newspaper!). Subscriptions the seat of the county). In 1882 Anundsen The photographer, Ole E. Borlaug (1856- [email protected] revived the literary magazine Ved Arnen 1894), was born in Wisconsin and in 1864 ar­ as a literary supplement to the newspaper, rived in Winneshiek County with his parents Contributors and in 1885 the circulation was more than and settled near Decorah in Calmar on a farm. Larrie Wanberg Grand Forks, N.D. 20,000. In 1887 Ved Arnen became a weekly He purchased the Decorah photography busi­ Julia Andersen New York, N,Y. Tove Andersson Oslo, Norway addition with a lot of literary prose, mainly ness of Asa W. Adams in 1884 and also had Patricia Barry Hopewell Junction, N.Y. translated novels and short stories as well as a studio in Calmar. From a local newspaper Melinda Bargreen Everett, Wash. Norwegian literature. In 1889, it became the account, we learn that in December 1890, a Terje Birkedal Anchorage, Alaska M. Michael Brady Asker, Norway first Scandinavian newspaper in America to fire in Calmar razed “Borlaug’s picture gal­ David Burke Skoppum, Norway be printed on a rotary press. Odd Lovoll has lery and in spite of all that could be done, the Carla Danziger McLean, Va. / Albany, Calif. written that a contributing factor to the suc­ two buildings were soon in ashes.” Daughters of Norway Members Various Gary G. Erickson Sunburg, Minn. cess and profitability of the paper was the Rasmus Falck Oslo, Norway practice of awarding novels, collections of Postcard from the collection of Cynthia El- Christy Olsen Field Seattle, Wash. short stories and poems, and songbooks as yce Rubin. Sunny Gandara Beacon, N.Y. Heidi Håvan Grosch Sparbu, Norway Rosalie Grangaard Grosch Arden Hills, Minn. Kari Heistad Edina, Minn. < terror < buses Victoria Hofmo Brooklyn, N.Y. From page 4 From page 3 Leslee Lane Hoyum Rockford, Minn. Roy Jorgensen Hopewell Junction, N.Y Ilan Kelman Agder, Norway of their actions, it is because they want it to want to be involved in. However, this amaz­ route 31 that runs east-west across the city Michael Kleiner Philadelphia, Penn. be spread around so we can fear them even ing network of technology and information- and is Norway’s busiest bus route. They are Scott Larsen New Westminster, B.C. Thor A. Larsen Fishkill, N.Y. more. Today’s media culture shows that if sharing outlets reaches billions of people ev­ made by BYD Auto Co. of Xi’an, Shaanxi Lexi Seattle, Wash. one news channel publishes, then all others ery day and is, therefore, perfectly suited to Province, China. Solveig M. Lee Seattle, Wash. follow suit. There must be a way of limiting perform for terrorist groups. It must, there­ Two different battery charging systems Richard Londgren Thousand Oaks, Calif. Donald V. Mehus New York, N.Y. the domino effect of repetition. fore, be used responsibly. will be tested. The batteries of the Solaris bus­ Christine Foster Meloni Washington, D.C. Television, radio, internet, and newspa­ es will be fast charged at the end stations of David Moe Sun City, Calif. pers have been integrated into societies all Further reading: their routes. The batteries of the BYD articu­ Maria Stordahl Nelson Seattle, Wash. David Nikel Trondheim, Norway over the world. Media may be called corrupt “Terrorism and the Media: A Dangerous lated buses will be charged when the vehicles Ken Nordan Batavia, Ill. in terms of focusing only on parts of the truth Symbiosis,” by Arda Bilgen, E-International are out of service at their depots overnight. Barbara K. Rostad Coeur d’ Alene, Idaho in many cases, misleading the audience, as Relations, July 22, 2012, link: www.e-ir. The results of the testing will determine John Erik Stacy Seattle, Wash. Rolf Kristian Stang New York, N.Y. well as freely choosing which cases they info/2012/07/22/terrorism-and-the-media-a- many of the parameters of the electric buses Judith Gabriel Vinje Los Angeles, Calif. dangerous-symbiosis to be rolled out in 2020. The ultimate goal is Dianna Walla Tromsø, Norway for all Oslo buses to be electric by 2025. Linda Warren Washington, D.C. Jo Christian Weldingh Oslo, Norway

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Want to see your birthday in The Norwegian American? Email [email protected] or call (206) 784-4617. Must be submitted one month in advance. NB: Has someone on our birthday list passed away? Please notify us! 6 • January 27, 2017 Taste of Norway theNorwegianamerican Lighter satisfaction for a sweet tooth Watching your diet after the holidays? This relatively guilt-free dessert might hit the spot

Photos: Maria Stordahl Nelson Adding some oats to these baked apples creates a filling, cobbler-like dessert that won’t spoil your diet.

Maria Stordahl Nelson Seattle, Wash.

Each January, like most people, I look to If you’ve baked much with cardamom, trim my calorie consumption and focus my you understand the importance of grinding meals and treats on food that is both whole­ your own. Store-bought ground cardamom, some and healthful. A December full of par­ while delicious, lacks the earthy fragrant ties and celebratory drinking and eating have pungency that makes all of our Nordic left behind some extra pounds that I now find breads, desserts, and pastries really sing. A myself working to eliminate with all due ex­ mortar and pestle do the job admirably and pedience. efficiently and are definitely worth acquiring I find, however, that in my quest to re­ if you haven’t done so yet. duce and minimize consumption I still need While not technically “diet” food, this to have a few lighter, healthier desserts in recipe is much lighter than other dessert my repertoire for those days when a sweet options and, if enjoyed in moderation, is a treat is an absolute must. Baked apples are perfectly acceptable healthier choice. Rather one such treat. They have always been a des­ than going to the trouble of hollowing out sert that satisfies my sweet tooth while at the each apple, I usually slice them into thick same time providing me with a healthier, fill­ rounds and toss them in brown sugar, spices, ing option. and the smallest amount of melted butter. Ease of preparation and simplicity of The presentation is rustic and simple, and a ingredients make baked apples a natural fun and unique twist on the original. decision for me, and I must admit there is Before long we are all happily, satisfy­ Baked Cardamom Apples just something so cozy and satisfying about ingly settled around steaming dishes of fra­ them. They are also a treat that each member grant apples and caramelized oat topping, 1 cup old fashioned oats 3 large apples (Fuji or Pink) of my household can all agree on. Once in feeling not at all deprived. It’s my hope that 4 tbsps. butter, melted ½ tsp. ground cinnamon the oven, the intoxicating aroma of brown you too will find this recipe a comforting and ¼ cup brown sugar 1 tsp. freshly ground cardamom sugar, butter, and tart apples wafts around my delicious way to begin the New Year. ¼ tsp. salt 1 tbsp. butter, melted house and soon curious faces appear, sniffing the air gingerly with anxious anticipation. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. To this delicious, heady mixture of simple Combine the oats, butter, sugar, and salt in a small bowl and set aside. ingredients, I sometimes add cardamom, Maria Stordahl Nelson is Slice the apples into ¼” rounds, remove the seeds if desired, and toss them in a bowl with cinnamon, and a smattering of whole oats. a Seattle-area food writer, the spices and the melted butter. Place them in a small buttered baking dish, layering them The addition of cardamom gives this recipe photographer, and recipe lightly on top of each other. it’s uniquely Nordic spin and ups the flavor developer. She shares her Arrange the oats around the edge of the dish and place in the oven. Bake 30-40 minutes profile considerably. Since heavy cardamom love of all things sweet, sa- until the apples are tender. Serve immediately with a dollop of cream or ice cream if you desserts are on hold for me this month, this vory, and sometimes Nordic desire. recipe provides all of the great flavor I love at www.pinkpatisserie.net. Serves 4. in a much lighter package. theNorwegianamerican Taste of Norway January 27, 2017 • 7 Typisk norsk fare: Under new leadership but still n’eat Cozy kål and bacon Special Release n’eat

The East Village New Nordic restau­ including travels to Sydney for NOMA’s rant n’eat (featured in our last issue) has restaurant pop-up before recently re­ announced that its chef, Gabriel Hedlund, turning stateside to join the n’eat team. has departed from the restaurant. The Yeung’s main focus will be research and core team, including Owner Mathias Kær, development, in addition to creating new General Manager Allan Jensen, and Som­ dishes to add to the menu before she melier Pernille Folkersen, still remain. heads to Tulum to assist with NOMA’s Taking the helm of the kitchen is next pop-up series this April. Chef Yelena Del Mundo. Born and raised Together, Del Mundo and Yeung in the Philippines, she came to the states will collaborate on a new menu for n’eat, to attend the Culinary Institute of Amer­ maintaining the restaurant’s mission of ica, graduating at the top of her class. featuring Nordic-style cooking and tech­ Most recently she worked as Sous Chef niques, but one that also showcases global of Tribeca’s Two-Starred restaurant Atera influences from their heritages and ­ culi and has also spent time at Oceana and nary experiences. Three Michelin-Starred Jean Georges. Also in the kitchen is Eve Yeung, For more information or to make a res- a New York native who worked in the ervation, contact the restaurant at (917) kitchen at NOMA for the past two years, 892-6350 or visit www.neat-nyc.com.

Photo: Daytona Strong Norwegian Cabbage, a hardy cold-weather staple, is a perfect backdrop for salty bacon and flavorful dill. all the way

Daytona Strong Taste of Norway Editor through?

The book smells of old cabin wood, for a Norwegian dinner featuring cod and a dusty, stale, with a hint of cedar. Printed in the simple yet comforting dish of cabbage. 1960s, it’s vintage, in pristine condition apart I gently poached the cod before dress­ from the torn corners of the jacket. Flipping ing it in a creamy white sauce accented with Subscribe today: (206) 784-4617 • [email protected] through the unmarked, thick creamy pages a hint of mustard and serving it alongside a and the still-crisp yet rustic deckle edge, I dish of wilted cabbage with pieces of crunchy can’t help but wonder if had been forgotten bacon and flecks of fresh dill. A study in con­ on a bookshelf decades ago. trasts, the softness of the cabbage—which the I love old cookbooks and have collect­ has yielded to the heat—gets livened up with ed many Scandinavian ones throughout the crunchy bacon and the herby flavor of fresh Hearthstone years. They offer clues to another time, often dill. It’s as easy as can be, and forgiving. in subtle ways, and in them I see clues into what life must have been like for past gener­ Daytona Strong is The Nor- ations of my family. I found my copy of The wegian American’s Taste of Complete Scandinavian Cookbook by Alice Norway editor. She writes B. Johnson at Powell’s Books in Portland about her family’s Norwe- a while back. Nestled among Scandinavian gian heritage through the and Nordic cookbooks both old and new in lens of food at her Scandi- the high, crowded shelves, it made its way navian food blog, www.out- to mine, where I had all but forgotten again side-oslo.com. Find her on until last spring. With recipes grouped by Facebook (www.facebook.com/OutsideOslo), country, it made it easy for me to go straight Twitter (@daytonastrong), Pinterest (@dayton- to the section on Norway and draft a menu astrong), and Instagram (@daytonastrong).

Wilted Cabbage with Fresh Dill and Bacon Welcome to the Neighborhood! (Kål med Dill og Flesk)

Adapted from The Complete Scandinavian Cookbook by Alice B. Johnson (1964)

1 large head cabbage A handful of chopped fresh dill, plus 4 slices bacon (I used uncured more for garnish applewood-smoked bacon) Approximately ½ tsp. salt 1 leek, white and light green parts Freshly ground pepper, to taste only, thinly sliced

Slice the cabbage into 1-inch strips, discarding the core. In a large pan, fry the bacon over medium-high heat until crisp, then remove to a paper towel-lined plate and pour off all but a tablespoon of the fat. Add the sliced leek to the fat and cook over medium heat until lightly browned, about a minute or so. the Add the cabbage, and scatter over the dill, a little of the salt, and pepper (go easy on the Hearthstone salt, starting with a pinch and tasting as you go, as you may need more or less depending on the saltiness of the bacon). Add about 1/2 cup water and bring to a simmer. Cover and simmer Retirement Living 6720 E Green Lake Way N until the cabbage is tender, stirring it occasionally and adding additional water as necessary. Seattle, WA 98103 Give it a final taste and adjust seasonings as needed—a splash of vinegar might be good if at Seattle’s Green Lake www.hearthstone.org you’re serving it with a rich meal. (206) 517-2213 To serve, crumble the bacon over the top and garnish with extra dill. Serves 4. 8 • January 27, 2017 Business theNorwegianamerican Business News & Notes New Statoil discovery near Norne Norwegian reports record high year- Vaccibody’s next- “It’s great kicking off the New Year with end traffic figures a discovery,” says Jez Averty, senior vice Norwegian reported its highest-ever pas­ president for exploration in Norway and the senger figures in a single year with almost generation vaccines UK. 30 million passengers and a load factor of The drilling of the Cape Vulture explo­ 88 percent in 2016. ration well started in early December 2016. Passenger growth, more new aircraft, Investors support the biotech startup creating The well was drilled in the license 128 as a and high load factors characterized 2016. next-generation vaccine and immune therapy result of the award of license 128D in the The company carried almost 30 million APA round in 2015. The drilling of the well passengers in 2016, 3.6 million more than is the result of the development of a new ex­ the previous year. The company took deliv­ ploration concept for the Nordland Ridge. ery of 21 brand new aircraft and launched “We make this discovery one year after 34 new routes, mainly in the U.S., Spain, the announcement of the license award at and the UK. The 2016 load factor was 88 the 2016 Sandefjord conference. We are sat­ percent, up from 86 percent in 2015. isfied with already completing the well and December 2016 was also characterized happy to be able to announce Cape Vulture by passenger growth and a solid load fac­ as a commercial discovery. This shows the tor. Norwegian carried 2,145,043 passen­ importance of new acreage, demonstrates gers in December, up 20 percent from the our ability to quickly test new opportunities, same month last year. and emphasizes that looking at mature areas “The traffic figures show that our glob­ in new ways may pay off,” Averty adds. al strategy works and our competitiveness The Cape Vulture discovery opens up is strengthened. It is gratifying to see that for further exploration opportunities in the more and more people choose to fly with area. Statoil will now analyze the results in us—our flights between Paris and several detail and identify any new exploration tar­ cities in the U.S., for example, have more gets in the area. or less been full. At the same time, our Eu­ Recoverable reserves are initially esti­ ropean and intercontinental routes comple­ mated at between 20 and 80 million barrels ment each other as around 30 percent of our of recoverable oil equivalents; plans for fur­ passengers on the intercontinental routes ther appraisal of the discovery will be made. also use our European network on the same Photo: John Keith / Wikimedia Commons “We are very pleased with this discov­ journey,” said Norwegian CEO Bjørn Kjos. Hands of a scientist, under a sterile hood, preparing the carcinoembryonic antigen (CEA) vaccinia ery,” says Siri Kindem, Statoil’s senior vice “December has been a busy travel used to try to prevent cancer. president for Operations North. month, particularly in Scandinavia, Eu­ “Norne is already a much greater suc­ rope, and the U.S. Our Caribbean routes cess than we expected when the field was have been very well received, especially Rasmus Falck discovered. It has been the backbone of our amongst American travelers who are fly­ Oslo, Norway ventures in the north from the very begin­ ing from Boston, New York, and Balti­ ning, and discoveries such as Cape Vulture more/Washington to the French Caribbean In December the board of directors of a man and veterinary market. She is heavily contribute to Norne’s long life and to main­ islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe,” Norwegian biotech startup announced that involved in clinical development of novel taining activities in the Norwegian Sea,” Kjos continued. a private placement had been successfully vaccines. Kindem adds. (Norwegian) completed, raising NOK 220 million. The In Norway about 3,000 women have un­ (Statoil) private placement was significantly oversub­ dergone an operation to prevent further de­ scribed, and the CEO was grateful for the velopment of cervical cancer. This operation Exchange Rates Oslo Børs: Week at a Glance commitment to the company from new and can have many side effects, but with Vacci­ existing investors. body’s solution, a vaccine may be sufficient. (Jan. 23, 2017) Winners Losers That startup was Vaccibody, founded in In August an interim analysis of the Norsk Kr. 8.3716 Name NOK Change Name NOK Change Oslo in 2007. It is a vaccine company with results from the first phase of trials recom­ Dansk Kr. 6.9285 Golden Ocean Group 48.40 7.56% Funcom 3.09 -16.71% the vision of creating the next generation of mended a continuation of the trial. The CEO Storm Real Estate 5.47 7.25% GC Rieber Shipping 13.45 -8.50% Svensk Kr. 8.8454 vaccine and immune therapy. The platform Martin Bonde was very pleased with the Napatech 25.20 6.78% Seadrill 24.25 -8.35% has been proven in a variety of disease mod­ promising data they had seen so far. Islandsk Kr. 112.75 The Scottish Salmon Co. 9.69 5.79% I.M. Skaugen 2.21 -7.92% els including infection diseases and cancer The vaccine not only appears to have Canadian $ 1.3272 Hiddn Solutions 9.50 4.97% Solvang 26.00 -7.14% and has been confirmed by academic and in­ an excellent safety profile but the observed For detailed information about the Oslo Børs, visit www.dn.no. Euro 0.9317 dustry partners. T cell immune responses also indicate that In general, vaccines stimulate the body’s the medicine induces the strongest HPV16 immune system; however, they spread ran­ specific immune response ever seen reported domly through the body. This is where the in literature. The Scandinavian Hour startup comes in. Their medicine comes to­ The Norwegian Cancer Association has Celebrating over 50 years on the air! gether with units that enable the medicine to a venture fund that invests in early cancer reach the infected cells and effectively attack research, and they chose to invest in Vac­ KKNW – 1150 AM them. cibody. Other early investors were Sarsia It all started when PhD student Agnete Seed and the Radiumhospital fund. Early Saturdays 9 – 10 a.m. PST Fredriksen constructed and tested the first on the startup also received grants from the Streaming live on the internet at: Vaccibody vaccines that led to the invention. Research Council’s Program for User-driven She was awarded with Medinnova’s prize for Research-based Innovation. www.1150kknw.com Best Idea 2003 for this work, as well as His The company now has a platform patent Majesty the King’s Gold Medal in 2008 for in the U.S. as well. Fredriksen’s advice is to her PhD thesis on Vaccibody’s technology have fun when you develop drugs! platform. She then went to Harvard Univer­ sity for further refinement before returning Rasmus Falck is a strong to Oslo to continue her work at Radium­ innovation and entrepre- 2709 SAN PABLO AVE — BERKELEY, CA 94702 hospitalet. Since 2007 Fredriksen has been neurship advocate. The au- the CSO at Vaccibody, located in the Oslo Phone: (800) 854-6435 — Email: [email protected] thor of “What do the best Research Park, and is in charge of all inter­ do better” and “The board nal and external R&D activities, steering in­ of directors as a resource Featuring great Nordic products ternational collaboration with academic and in SME,” he received his pharma partners. Her work involves vaccine masters degree from the Books • Candy and Chocolates • Canned goods • Condiments development for a variety of cancer indica­ University of Wisconsin-Madison. He currently Cooking wares • Dry Goods • Gift items • Specialty meats tions and infectious diseases for both the hu­ lives in Oslo, Norway. and more! Visit us online: www.nordichouse.com thank you for reading our paper! tusen takk theNorwegianamerican Business January 27, 2017 • 9 Can you get there from here? Routes solves complex travel problems

Daniela De Lorenzo Nordic Startup Bits

Nordic Startup Bits met Routes at Oslo Innovation Week 2015, where the founders pitched to investors and tried to grow their audience at the Afterwork Startup event at the re-launched co-working space MESH. “We started out with testing the concept on an event in Oslo, a popular pub-crawl called Tom Waits. We thought why not make a route for this pub-crawl and post it on the Facebook group?” says Andreas Bollestad Pedersen, Business Developer at Routes. “One link and a few hours later, we were linked by the biggest newspaper in Norway and called ‘the official Tom Waits Guide.’” The four members of Routes, who have named their team the Routyfruits, believe in Photos courtesy of Nordic Startup Bits the possibility of simplifying travel experi­ Above: Examples of some of the routes available ences with their app, through user-generated on Routes’s website and app. Left: The Routes team at Oslo Innovation Week. routes—including drinking routes! “The reason we wanted to build Routes is because we believe most travel apps don’t focus enough on user-generated content,” said Bollestad Pedersen. “So we wanted to come up with something stupidly simple and addictive, where people immediately under­ stand their purpose, which is to create and explore routes.” The young team—all in their mid twen­ ties—is composed of Bollestad Pedersen, de­ signer Bendik Skotland Hansen, and develop­ ers Michael Gunnulfsen and Truls Skeie. Nordic Startup Bits had a chance to ask the Routes team a few questions: Most travel apps handpick the best content. Nordic Startup Bits: Can you tell us a bit We turn this around by stating everyone has about your app? a route to make, and it’s up to the community Routes: The project began at Startup Week­ to vote on what’s best. When the users create end in late February 2015. Routes is a social a route, we spice it up with valuable informa­ app where users create and discover a new tion such as ratings, pictures, and videos and form of travel guides. It’s simple, fun, and lay it out on a map with direction info. delivers awesome travel tips in an engaging Sealift Inc. When you make a route on the web to­ and user-centric application. On top of the day, the user adds spots to the route through user-generated guides, we deliver even more our searching system. A Google search hap­ value by aggregating images, ratings, and pens behind the scenes, and we do the rest • Ship Owners • direction services from third-party services of the job by finding accompanying venues such as Instagram, Yelp, and Google. On top through third party APIs. The user picks what of that, everyone can create routes. It’s easy third-party data he or she wants to show. • Ship & Cargo Brokers • and fast. And all the routes are open without having to create a profile. You can share ev­ NSB: What are the next steps for Routes? ery route easily in social media and find them R: We are currently building the native mo­ • Steamship Agents • on Google. Every route has a unique URL bile application. This will be our main plat­ and contains tailored SEO tags. form where people can use Routes when they travel. On the business side, we are working NSB: How does Routes differentiate itself with attracting relevant partners to grow and from the existing travel app industry? build content. We use other social platforms R: The travel app industry is huge with many to spread Routes and bring existing tourist competitors. We compare ourselves to apps communities to us. that deliver travel guides. Our uniqueness is that we deliver a super simple niche con­ Learn more about Routes at www.routes. cept, and we just happen to solve complex guide. The Route mobile application is now travel-planning issues and inspirational con­ available on Google Play in some countries tent behind a simple interface. Call it Insta­ and on iTunes. gram meets Reddit in a conceptualized travel book. This article was originally published on Nor- dic Startup Bits. View the complete article NSB: How does a user create a route, and to at www.nordicstartupbits.com/2015/11/16/ what extent will you supply content? routes-solves-complex-travel-planning.

Vesterheim 68 West Main Street, Oyster Bay, New York 11771 the national Norwegian-American museum and heritage center Phone: (516) 922-1000 Fax: (516) 922-6526 • The largest collection of Norwegian-American artifacts in the world www.sealiftinc.com E-mail: [email protected] • A national center for folk-art classes • Open all year in Decorah, Iowa 10 • January 27, 2017 Research & Science theNorwegianamerican Profiles of Norwegian science: What connects Tromsø and Belize?

Ilan Kelman Agder, Norway

As the aurora dances across dim snow- capped peaks surrounding the Arctic Ca­ thedral, many Tromsø residents dream of the tropical Caribbean. They would gladly trade the dark winter days for waves rippling out from azure lagoons to lightly caress the white sand beaches. Tromsø scientists make this their reality. By dedicating their research to development in Belize, they link Norway with the tropics. Elin Merethe Oftedal at the Univer­ sity of Tromsø employs Sara Lupini as a researcher. They recently finished a pilot project on “Unlocking Belize’s Potential” to develop higher education in Belize related to energy and petroleum—areas of clear inter­ est to Norway. “I became interested in Belize 10 years ago when I was invited there as a PhD stu­ dent,” says Oftedal. “In addition to being a fabulous country with fantastic people,” she continues, “it seemed to be a place where a little effort goes a long way and where we could make an impact.” Photo: Ilan Kelman Lupini agrees, explaining that “Belize Tromsø and the Caribbean clash but connect. is a country with a small, young population, an immense cultural heritage, and unique environmental resources. This comes with mainstay vanishes. Without the reefs break­ are developing a project called “The Ark,” gion’s main languages. huge responsibilities and requires an effec­ ing the power of ocean waves, the coastlines centered on Belize but for addressing climate The Ark, like its sibling project Many tive strategy for sustainably managing the of fishing villages might rapidly erode. change and related topics across the Carib­ Strong Voices, which connects Arctic and country, striving for harmony and balance Security and disease continue as con­ bean. tropical island communities, epitomizes between its human and natural components.” cerns. When two foreigners, one tourist and Lupini notes that “Within the actions starting locally and expanding globally. Lu­ Comparing it to Norway, she calls Belize “a one resident, were murdered a year ago, it promoted by our initiative, we embrace the pini’s vision is “To strengthen local capaci­ living laboratory, which can provide a space was a balance between raising legitimate mission of fostering sustainability and resil­ ties to address climate change challenges and to develop innovative solutions tackling cli­ safety issues and blowing isolated incidents ience in the Small Island Developing States related development issues. We must work mate change and sustainable development out of proportion. Among countries, Belize and coastal states of the Caribbean.” They with Caribbean communities on their terms challenges.” ranks third in murders per capita—but this have brought together a consortium of aca­ for innovative and sustainable programs, They presented their passion and sci­ rate is equivalent to many American cities. demics, government officials, non-govern­ testing and improving, to then disseminate ence at a conference in Belize in November. Belize reported its first Zika case in mental organization workers, and the private and replicate the results worldwide.” Seeking sustainability leadership, the meet­ April after its first Chikungunya case ap­ sector. This also means learning from Belize to ing brought together researchers and practi­ peared in November 2014. Dengue has long Oftedal describes the need for extensive bring back ideas and actions to northern Nor­ tioners from around the Caribbean. Oftedal been endemic with period outbreaks, such as cooperation because “We believe achiev­ way. From the warm waters to the cold ice, and Lupini spoke about sustainable resource in August 2015. ing sustainability and resilience is a process we all can apply science for sustainability. management through knowledge transfer, in­ Meanwhile, half the year brings hur­ requiring each and every component of our stitution building, and developing local busi­ ricane potential, from May to November. societies, serious commitment, and perse­ nesses. Belize was hit in August by Hurricane Earl, verance. We provide a model to identify and Ilan Kelman (www.ilankel- Their work and insights describe the re­ causing power and communications outages leverage entrepreneurial ideas and innova­ man.org and Twitter @Ilan­­­- Kelman) is a Reader in ality of Belize. It is not just coral reefs, cruise along with damaged homes and bridges. tive solutions targeting climate change chal­ Risk, Resilience, and Glob- ships, and warm sun. The country faces nu­ These challenges produce opportunities. lenges. al Health at University Col- merous challenges. Due to disaster preparation and response, Lupini indicates the importance of start­ lege London, England, and Belize depends significantly on fishing Belize experienced few reported casualties. ing in Belize, because the country serves as a fellow at the University of and tourism. Both sectors are highly affected From Tromsø, Oftedal and Lupini set a gateway to both the Caribbean islands and Agder, Norway. His overall by climate change. If coral reefs die due to out to work with Belizeans to learn and ex­ Central America. Its mish-mash of cultures, research interest is linking disasters and health, higher temperatures and acidity in the ocean change, to improve the country while con­ with both English and Spanish being promi­ including the integration of climate change into induced by greenhouse gases, then a tourist tributing to Norway and the world. They nent, means that it transcends two of the re­ disaster research and health research.

Nordic Spirit presents: All Power is of God: Reform in Sweden and Finland

Part II of Power, Politics and Belief in Reformation Scandinavia Fri. Feb. 10 – Sat. Feb. 11, 2017

18th Annual Nordic Spirit Symposium

A program for the public on the beautiful campus of California Lutheran University in Thousand Oaks, California

Information: www.scandinaviancenter.org Lodging discount available. Leave message at 805-497-3717 for additional information

Scandinavian American Cultural and Historical Foundation Thousand Oaks, California theNorwegianamerican Research & Science January 27, 2017 • 11

< israel No jet lag for Arctic reindeer From page 3 Earlier this month, three Republican Research gives insight into circadian rhythm and other adaptations Senators introduced a bill to recognize Jerusalem as the official capital of Israel and move the U.S. embassy there. Reloca­ tion would reverse decades of U.S. policy, M. Michael Brady which currently states that the status of East Asker, Norway Jerusalem should be decided in peace talks with the Palestinians. In studies of reindeer in the Arctic, sci­ Israel’s occupation of the eastern— entists at the University of Tromsø found a and mainly Arab—side of the city, which clue as to why we suffer jet lag, the delayed happened during the 1967 Arab-Israeli effect suffered after a long east-west or west- Six-Day War, is considered illegal under east flight. For instance, a person traveling international law. Israel’s passing of a law from Seattle (where this newspaper is pub­ in 1980, making its annexation of East Je­ lished) to Oslo (where this article was writ­ rusalem explicit, is not recognized inter­ ten) feels as if the time upon arrival is nine nationally. hours earlier than local time. Jet lag arises “If Trump moves the embassy to Je­ because like most animals and plants, we rusalem, that would be the end of the two- have an internal clock, the circadian rhythm, state solution. Trump would be giving which is on a 24-hour cycle configured by away something that is not his to give,” evolution to the Earthbound pattern of daily Shtayyeh has told reporters. sunrises and sunsets. That clock cannot be Kathrine Jensen, Chair of the Pales­ reset as rapidly as imposed by a jet aircraft tine Committee of Norway, tells The For­ flight across time zones. Resetting it may eigner that Trump’s announced U.S. em­ take several days—as a rule, one day per bassy move is “highly provocative. And time zone crossed. The inconvenience to air­ Photo: Per Harald Olsen / Wikimedia Commons the only country in the world that recog­ line crews as well as passengers is immense. Can we, like the Svalbard Reindeer, evolve beyond the need for circadian rhythms? nizes Jerusalem as the capital of Israel is Today there are an estimated two mil­ Israel itself.” lion reindeer in the high north regions of the “It’s very understandable that the Eurasian and North American continents. Of in a snowscape. • “Circadian organization in rein­ PLO threatens to revoke their recognition these, some 230,000 are in Norway. They In 2015 the University of Tromsø re­ deer,” by a research group at the University of the state of Israel,” Jensen says. “The are much studied by researchers at the Uni­ searchers joined with colleagues at the of Tromsø, Nature, Brief Communication, statement is powerful, but it seems unlike­ versity of Tromsø, in part because reindeer Norwegian University of Science and Tech­ December 21, 2005, link: www.nature.com/ ly that they will follow it through. There is herding is a prime livelihood in the far north. nology in Trondheim to find scientific ex­ nature/journal/v438/n7071/full/4381095a. little or nothing to gain from it.” In recent studies the researchers found that planations for the reindeer’s unique ability html, DOI 10.1038/4381095a President of the State of Palestine and arctic animals, such as ptarmigan and rein­ to survive in the cold Arctic climate. They • “Persistence, Entrainment, and Palestinian National Authority, Mahmoud deer, showed circadian rhythms only in the found that in addition to their insulating fur, Functions of Circadian Rhythms in Polar Abbas, told the UN General Assembly in parts of the year that have daily sunrises and reindeer have a complex nasal system that Vertebrates,” by C.T. Williams et.al., Physi- 2015 that Palestinians will no longer con­ sunsets. In the Svalbard Reindeer, the sub- contributes much to their survival. A rein­ ology (American Physiological Society), Vol tinue to be bound by the Oslo Accords un­ species living in the Arctic archipelago at deer nose acts as a heat exchanger, rapidly 30, No. 2, March 2015, p. 86-96, link: physi­ less they get international protection. 78°N, they found and in 2005 published the warming inhaled air and extracting heat from ologyonline.physiology.org/content/30/2/86, “Israel has repeatedly broken the observation that reindeer didn’t show circa­ exhaled air. DOI 10.1152/physiol.00045.2014 agreement, so why should the Palestinians dian rhythms in the constant light of summer Dispensing with the circadian rhythm • “Arctic reindeer extend their visual feel obligated to continue to respect the or the constant dark of winter. Ten years later in constantly light summers and constantly range into the ultraviolet,” by researchers agreement?” states Jensen. that observation was corroborated in a paper dark winters, perceiving ultraviolet light, at the University of Tromsø, the University It has not yet been announced which published by the American Physiological and having a heat-exchanger nose are all at­ College London, and the University of West­ part of Jerusalem is being considered re­ Society. tributes acquired since reindeer first came ern Australia, Journal of Experimental Biol- garding the planned U.S. embassy reloca­ Studies continued on other aspects of to the Arctic 5,000 to 10,000 years ago. The ogy, issue 214 (June 15, 2011), DOI 10.1242/ tion. Oded Eran, a former Israeli ambas­ the biology of reindeer. In 2011 the Univer­ reasons for these differences from similar jeb.053553 sador to the EU and now researcher for sity of Tromsø researchers joined with col­ animals elsewhere on the planet are un­ • “The Nasal Geometry of the Rein­ The Institute for National Security Studies leagues at the University College London in known but suggest that reindeer are a case of deer Gives Energy-Efficient Respiration,” by (INSS) in Tel Aviv, lists other variables. publishing the finding that Arctic reindeer evolution in the fast lane. Elisa Maganelli and colleagues, Norwegian “It can be carried out in various see light a fifth shorter in wavelength than University of Science and Technology and forms. For example, the U.S. can direct that seen by humans, as well as most mam­ Further reading: articles in scientific jour­ University of Tromsø, Journal of Non-Eq- its ambassador to operate from a building mals. Reindeer see what we see, as well as a nals accessible via their DOI (Digital Object ilibrium Thermodynamics, July 2016, DOI in Jerusalem while the embassy is still lo­ significant part of the ultraviolet light spec­ Identifier) names: Type/paste a DOI name 10.1515/jnet-2016-0038; Popularized ver­ cated in Tel Aviv,” he remarks. trum. That extra ability helps them survive into “Resolve a DOI name” at www.doi.org sion published by Gemini Research News “We can call threats by various people, in the Arctic, because lichens, the staple of (be sure to enter all characters before and af­ (Norway) December 15, 2016, link: gemi­ including the PLO, as early warning shots. their winter diet, don’t reflect ultraviolet ter the slash) and then click on the SUBMIT niresearchnews.com/2016/12/magical-rein­ I’m not sure what impact these will have on light. So in foraging, food stands out black button. deer-nose the upcoming U.S. President’s decision. At the same time, it’s a fact that all states who conduct affairs with Israel recognize West Jerusalem as being the capital.” Dan Poraz, Deputy Chief of Mission at Israel’s embassy in Oslo, states that “I Travel issue Norwegian American notes can’t really see how moving the embassy The holidays are over, but winter too! It’s almost Groundhog Day, so congress in Trondheim. Tromsø is from Tel Aviv to the capital of Israel, where remains. What to do? If you’re like maybe if we’re lucky the little guy celebrating this very special an- the embassy should be in the first place, is us here at The Norwegian American, won’t see his shadow this time, and niversary with a weeklong program breaching the Accords in anyway.” this is the time of year when you we can hurry along to spring! Just of concerts, talks, language courses, Poraz suggests that by moving the daydream about travel. If you’re a because it’s never happened before, lasso-throwing contests, gener- embassy Trump stands to “gain the trust little luckier than us, you’re planning doesn’t mean it never can. If the last ous portions of warming bidos and of voters, the international community, travel! year has taught us anything, it’s that, campfire coffee, colorful costumes and people all over the world.” In either case, this is the issue right? from all over Sámiland, and reindeer Israel would also gain from Trump’s for you! We’ve got stories on plan- racing down the city’s main street. move, according to Poraz: “It would defi­ ning and on locations to visit. We’ve Sámi Day It’s (probably) too late to make nitely signal that things are moving in the got more than would fit in the issue! Right after Groundhog Day, on it this year, but another idea for next right direction, in their view. Moreover, February 6, Norway celebrates Sámi year’s travel plans? Why not! moving the embassy doesn’t contradict Groundhog Day Day. This year is actually the centen- any desire for a peaceful two-state solu­ Looking forward to spring? Us nial of the first meeting of the Sámi tion, unlike what some Palestinian offi­ cials have said in the past few days,” he explains. 12 • January 27, 2017 Travel theNorwegianamerican Traveling runs in the Viking blood Even before Leif Erikson, the Norse visited Baghdad and beyond as merchant warriors

though at times they procured these by exact­ ing tribute, they largely traded with Muslims. Judith Gabriel Vinje We would in fact know little about these Los Angeles Norsemen in the East were it not for Muslim chroniclers. Ibn Fadlan, whose 10th-century More than a millennium ago, the great­ Risala (letter) is the richest account of all, est travelers in all of Europe were the Vi­ kept a journal that details his encounters with kings. Fleets of Viking raiders were striking the Rus along the Volga. A few decades later, fear into the hearts of coast and river-dwell­ al-Tartushi, a merchant from Cordoba, de­ ers throughout western Europe, while other scribed a Danish market town, passing down Norsemen of more mercantile inclination to us a rare glimpse of the Norsemen in their were making their way east—going as far as domestic setting. Baghdad and beyond. Unlike Europeans, Arab chroniclers Bearing luxurious furs and enticing bore no grudge against the Vikings, and thus nodules of amber, they penetrated the vast their reports are more detached and, in the steppes of what is today Ukraine, Belarus, eyes of many scholars, more credible. Ex­ and Russia and entered Central Asia. There perts today acknowledge that the Vikings they met Muslim traders who paid for Norse were, in general, victims of a medieval “bad wares with silver coins. press,” for the military excursions of Char­ Their routes were various, and by the lemagne and other Europeans were no less ninth and 10th centuries, a regular trade net­ ruthless. Yet the Norsemen had only a runic work had grown up. Some Norsemen traveled Image: Public Domain alphabet, suited for no more than inscribing overland and by river, while others sailed over Nicholas Roerich, “Guests from Overseas,” a painting depicting the “Rus.” grave-stones and place-markers, and were both the Black and Caspian Seas, joined cara­ hardly in a position to set the record straight. vans, and rode camelback as far as Baghdad, Hundreds of Viking Age graves and bur­ which was then under Abbasid rule with a Rus, excelled. The Arabs, for their part, were flourished “from Spain to Egypt.” ied hoards, it turns out, contain caches of still- population of nearly one million. eager to have caps and coats made of black While the usual relationship of the Rus gleaming Arab dirhams, the coin that helped From the time of the first Viking at­ fox, the most valued of all the furs. From the with Baghdad, Khazaria, and other Mus­ fuel the Viking Age. It was largely the dirham tacks on England in the late eighth century, Rus one could obtain furs of sable, Siberian lim lands was one of peaceable trade, this that lured the Scandinavians eastward in the the 300-year epoch known as the Viking squirrel, ermine, marten, weasel, mink, fox, was not always so. Along the shores of the first place. Silver had become their favored Age found Scandinavians venturing farther and colored hare. Caspian Sea, Rus tribes turned their prized medium of exchange, but with no sources afield than any other Europeans. They colo­ Other wares traded by the Rus included weapons against Muslims twice in the 10th of the precious metal in the northern forests, nized nearly the entire North Atlantic, even wax and birch bark, fish teeth, honey, goat century, once attacking Abaskun on the east­ they went in pursuit of it far and wide. Arab establishing a short-lived settlement in North skins and horse hides, falcons, acorns, ha­ ern Caspian in 910, and then penetrating the merchants had started circulating silver coins America about the turn of the millennium. It zelnuts, cattle, swords, and armor. Amber oil country around Baku in 912, taking rich in the Volga region in the late eighth century, was largely Vikings from Norway and Den­ was highly prized in the East and became a spoils and killing thousands. and Scandinavian traders, intent on finding mark who made these western voyages, but mainstay of Scandinavian trade. Also valued But the Rus were primarily explorers, the source of the lucre, set a course across the waves of “Eastern Vikings,” predominantly in the East were the slaves that the Rus cap­ colonizers, and tradesmen, and although they Baltic in their shallow-draft longboats. Swedes, headed southeast to establish trad­ tured from among the Eastern European peo­ were well-armed, Muslim accounts describe ing centers in Kiev and Novgorod, where the ples—Slavs, from which English has derived them as merchant-warriors whose primary Partly excerpted from an article written for elite among them became princes and rulers. the word slave. According to the gewkal, business was trade. They were after the Ab­ Aramco World Magazine, Vol. 50, No. 6, It was in trading that these Vikings, or writing in 977, the Rus ran a slave trade that basid-issued dirhams flooding the region, and Nov/Dec 1999.

Following in the Vikings’ footsteps: York, England’s ties to Norway

Heidi Håvan Grosch Sparbu, Norway

York’s ties to Norway Saint Olave’s Church When you are planning your next trip There are over a dozen churches in to Norway, you may not consider a side trip England dedicated to Olaf, patron saint of to York, England. However, the Vikings (as Norway. The Saint Olave Church in York is well as many other groups of people through­ believed to be the first (1056), a claim sup­ out history) left their mark here. ported by records about the death of Earl The current Norwegian government Siward of Northumbria. In information pro­ also supports the Norwegian Study Center, vided by the church, it states: “He lieth at associated with York University, so that stu­ Galmanho, in the minster (church) that he dents of English at Norwegian universities had built and hallowed in God’s name and can have the opportunity to bathe themselves Olaf’s.” Galmanho is a name from the area in the English language. Those training to be where the church now stands, just outside the teachers also get the opportunity to visit local Museum Gardens connected to the Yorkshire English schools, enriching their understand­ Museum. ing of what a classroom (and non-Norwegian students) might look like. Norwegian ties to The Jorvik Viking Centre (www.jorvik- York continue to be strong. viking-centre.co.uk) Between the years 1976-1981, archae­ Photo: Heidi Håvan Grosch The York Walls (www.yorkwalls.org.uk/ ologists discovered the remains of buildings Saint Olave’s Church. www.york.gov.uk) from the Viking Period 1000 years ago. The The center of York is surrounded by me­ Jorvik Viking Center was built on that site dieval city walls that represent the history of and recreates that time in history. Jorvik suf­ tour of the Minster (as well as Evening Song tea houses (Betty’s is the most famous), or the city itself. The walls are mostly from the fered damage during the Christmas flood in there at 5:15 p.m. daily), and the many mu­ sip a pint in a pub. It is easiest to fly into 13th century and are the longest town walls York of 2015 and is due to reopen in April seums (including the Castle Museum and the Manchester and take a train to York. Bed & in England. They were built by the Romans, 2017. This is a must see for anyone with Yorkshire Museum and gardens) are a must- Breakfasts (called Guest Houses) are typical the Vikings, and in turn the Normans to pro­ Norwegian (or Viking) ancestry. see. You can walk along the River Ouse and provide a more homey touch than hotels. tect and defend the city. Visitors can freely or the River Foss, explore the Shambles walk all 3.4 km (2 miles) during daylight A few more tips if you choose to visit York (think Hogsmeade in Harry Potter), drink So visit York, and discover Norway (www. hours. Ghost walks taken in the dark of night, a tea served in a silver teapot at a variety of visityork.org). theNorwegianamerican Travel January 27, 2017 • 13 Diary of a Guidebook Writer: How to plan your 2017 trip to Norway

David Nikel Trondheim, Norway

Hei folkens, and a belated Happy New Year to you all. I know that many of you are planning a trip to Norway in 2017, so today I’ll be offering some advice for those of you still in the early stages of planning your trip. A key decision you need to make early in the planning process is the time of year you intend to travel. Summer in Oslo is a very different experience from Finnmark in the winter! The best time to travel depends on what you want to see and your tolerance of cold climates.

Visiting the Lofoten Islands in spring The Lofoten archipelago is an outstand­ ing travel destination that you must try to include in your itinerary if you ever come to Norway. Unfortunately, in recent years the islands have suffered from overcrowding with accommodation hard to find during the summer and some of the most famous hiking trails starting to show signs of wear. I visited in the spring, and I highly rec­ ommend this time of year. First and foremost, it’s so quiet. For many miles, I saw no other cars—even when I pulled over to take photographs, which of course I found myself doing every ten minutes or so. Photos: David Nikel Although some cabins are only avail­ Above: Norway’s dramatic Lofoten archipelago able during high season, the availability mixes pristine beaches with snow-capped moun- of accommodation is generally much tains in the springtime. better during the spring. There is still a Right: Popular attractions in big cities such as Oslo’s Vigeland Sculpture Park can be surpris- high chance of a dusting of snow, which ingly quiet during the Norwegian holiday month makes the scenery look even more of July. spectacular. Finally, if you travel in March, there’s still a reasonable chance of catching a glimpse of the northern lights dancing overhead—if the clouds stay away, of course. Don’t let my spring recommenda­ tion dissuade you from visiting at an­ other point in the year, though. Travel­ ing to Lofoten is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that can absolutely be en­ joyed at any time of the year.

Joining in Norway’s national day I had an email recently from a reader Traveling in the summer mon as you might think, which means the to endure an astonishing -45F in the middle planning to spend Syttende Mai—Norway’s July is a fascinating time to visit Nor­ ever-shortening days can feel extremely of January this year. Constitution Day—in Norway. I know that’s way. As the national holiday month, most dull and dreary. In 2016, Tromsø didn’t re­ I’m still hard at work on the editing a dream shared by many Norwegian Ameri­ Norwegians are either in their cabins or sun­ ceive its first snowfall until December. It’s phase of Moon Norway, but it’s still on cans, so is the 17th of May a good time to ning themselves in the Mediterranean. This the snow that really brightens up the Norwe­ course to hit the shelves in time for anyone visit Norway? The answer: It depends what means Norway’s major cities are incredibly gian scenery, which means January through traveling to Norway later this year. When­ you are looking for. quiet, so it’s a great time to visit Oslo, Ber­ March is the best time for a truly wintery ex­ ever you choose to take your trip, enjoy your Foreign visitors are generally welcome gen, Stavanger, or Trondheim. Even though perience in the Norwegian Arctic. vacation and don’t hesitate to get in touch at the festivities, but this is Norway’s day some restaurants will be closed or subject to If you’re not used to extreme cold, stay with me at norwaytraveller.com if you have and, as such, tourists are not the priority. shorter hours, most attractions are open and close to the coast where temperatures tend any questions. Hotels are open, of course, but many res­ accommodation can often be snapped up at to be milder. Tromsø ticks that box, as well taurants will be reserved for private events bargain prices. as offering a dazzling range of outdoor ac­ David Nikel is a freelance and all tourist attractions will likely be In contrast, more rural areas such as tivities (dog-sledding anyone?) and cultural writer based in Norway. closed or hosting special events. The num­ Lofoten, the fjord region, or the various na­ experiences (museums and festivals galore) He runs the popular www. ber of domestic flights is limited, and prices tional parks are likely to be very busy, and that would be impressive for a city five times lifeinnorway.net blog and for flights, trains, and buses are likely to be advance booking for all accommodation will its size. is the author of the upcom- higher on May 16 and May 18. be essential. The further inland you travel, the colder ing MOON Norway guide- That said, being in Norway on the 17th it will be. The population of Kautokeino in book. of May is a really unique experience. For me Choosing between fall and winter Finnmark, the heartland of Sámi culture, had as a Brit who has never had a national day As the leaves begin to fall, so does the of my own to celebrate, it was all new. The rain. September through November tend to memories of the noise and the color of the be the wettest months across most of the Subscribe to The Norwegian American! morning parades along Karl Johans gate, the country. August and September are popular sheer number of people in the streets, and the months to go on hiking trips before the snow (206) 784-4617 • [email protected] usually reserved Norwegians suddenly turn­ falls, while October is prime time for seeing ing into extroverts for the day will stick with the northern lights across the Arctic region. news • business • sports • opinion • recipes • & more me for a lifetime. Before Christmas, snow is not as com­ 14 • January 27, 2017 Travel theNorwegianamerican A two-week Norwegian road trip Sometimes an ambitious itinerary can be fun; do you dare to follow in these footsteps?

Sarah Gerrity Washington, D.C.

“Are you insane?” That was how my friend Åse (pro­ nounced “oh-seh”) reacted when we di­ vulged our Norwegian road trip itinerary to her. We were just over halfway through our trip when we met her for what’s arguably the best restaurant in Bergen—Åse’s kitchen table, in her waterfront apartment. With a handsome man at her side and a very cute, very serious baby on her hip, she was just as enchanting as the last time I saw her, three years prior. She is an incred­ ible cook and highly skilled at pushing food on her guests, no matter how many servings they’ve already consumed. And when din­ ner’s over, there is dessert. And leftovers. And extra snacks for your hike the next day. We gladly accepted. Åse adores Bergen through and through, similarly to the way a born-and-raised New Yorker adores New York City: simply and utterly perplexed by anyone who would choose to live elsewhere. She even has me Photos: Sarah Gerrity sold on the city—and I’m not exactly the Above: Lofoten is possibly the most beautiful biggest fan of rainy weather. place in the world, with crystal waters, beaches, I agreed to move there if she found me a green hillsides, and spiky mountains. husband. To that, she responded: “Challenge Right: The scenic drive from Trondheim to Brønn­ accepted.” øysund includes many bridges and a ferry—and I’ll be waiting for the notice when she’s more blue waters. found him. The two weeks I spent road tripping through Norway were easily two of the best weeks of my life. From Oslo, we drove north and west: with our first major stops in Gei­ ranger and the Atlantic Road. From there, we hit Trondheim, and then powered through Trøndelag and Nordland to Bodø, where we collected Silje—the woman who sparked my Scandinavian obsession. And thus began a ladies’ weekend in Lofoten (pronounced loo- foo-ten). Lofoten is easily the most beautiful Luckily, I sobered up in time to drive. Itinerary: ately throw out running shoes. Go as a group place in the world, in my eyes. Sharp, spiky The second half of our trip flew by in • Day 1: Fly into Oslo. Drive to our to a sporting good store and purchase legit mountains rise up from cerulean blue waters, what felt like a matter of minutes—except 200-year-old cabin in Fossberg. (matching) hiking boots. and each horizon is dotted with little red fish­ the hike to Trolltunga… that happened • Day 2: Drive Gamle Strynfjellsvegan, • Day 9: Hike Festvågtinden for a Son­ erman’s cottages—rorbuer, in Norwegian. very, very slowly. But a night in Stavanger a beautiful tourist route along glacial val­ dre Justad concert. Lots and lots of climbing. Three tough hikes, four breathalyzer and one last night in Oslo let us appreciate leys. Continue to Geirangerfjord, where we • Day 10: Drive back to Moskenes to tests, and one mountaintop concert later, we Norwegian cities in all their glory: walkable lucked out with incredible weather and kay­ catch the ferry to Bodø. Fly from Bodø to all found ourselves aching to stay. At a bar, streets, stylish inhabitants, and an architec­ aked to the Seven Sisters waterfall. We drove Bergen. Dinner in Bergen, and drive 3 hours we were scolded for only giving ourselves tural blend of traditional and modern design. farther to our waterfront Airbnb in Stordal to Odda. three days in Lofoten. And I was finally in a On our last night, Silje and Greger brought and ate burgers at a fast food joint on a fjord. • Day 11: Hike Trolltunga. PTFO. part of the world where telling someone our us to Pjoltergeist, a spin-off by a Michelin- • Day 3: Detour to the Atlantic Road • Day 12: Drive to Stavanger. All of the nationality left both Norwegians and other star chef, boasting a creative Icelandic-Jap­ (worth it, if the weather is good). Continue exploring. All of the coffee. All of the cake. travelers puzzled—what the hell were two anese fusion menu. A handsome Norwegian on to Trondheim. Commence Emily-Sarah • Day 13: Drive to Kvinesdal, sleep on American girls doing here? Nevertheless, we man cracked jokes at our table in English, Trondheim bar crawl. a farm. stayed out drinking with a German, a Swiss, and yet again, I fell a little bit more in love • Day 4: Long, very scenic drive to • Day 14: Drive to Oslo. Exploring and and a Scot until two in the morning, only to with Norway. I’m not quite done with that Brønn­øysund, where the waters are an in­ dinner with Silje and Greger. realize that we’d have to hit the road at 4:30. country, and I’m not quite sure I’ll ever be. credible turquoise blue. Hike Torghatten, • Day 15: Fly out of Oslo. Commence a famous rock formation with a cave that clinical depression as we return to the U.S. opens up to a view of the islands and the during election season. June 24 - August 4, 2017 Norwegian Sea. • Day 5: Long drive to Mo i Rana, where Sarah Gerrity is an art di- we stayed in a haunted hotel. rector and a professional • Day 6: Hike to Svartisen, a rapidly photographer living in melting glacier. Drive to Bodø, pick up Silje, Photo: UiO, Mantas Grigaliunas Washington, D.C. Though make her teach us how to count to 20 in Nor­ she isn’t technically Nor- wegian over pizza and beer. wegian, she’s traveled to • Day 7: Ferry from Bodø to Moskenes, Norway several times and in the Lofoten Islands. Hike Kvalvika Beach would love to live there and drive to Henningsvær, our home for the someday. If she’s not at the office or a cute cof- weekend. fee shop in D.C., you can probably find her on • Day 8: Attempt to hike Svolværgei­ her way out of town for an adventure—camera ta—actually hiked to Djevelporten, which bag in tow. For more photos, check out her In- uio.no/summerschool ∙ [email protected] ∙ (800) 639-0058 translates to “The Devil’s Gate.” Immedi­ stagram at @gurrity. theNorwegianamerican Travel January 27, 2017 • 15 Out of the Guidebook: Modern, vital, and beautiful Berlin

Thor A. Larsen Fishkill, N.Y.

Berlin has developed a reputation as a well-run modern city where other Northern Europeans come to spend money in ultra- modern shopping malls known for high-end designer boutiques and peruse the pervasive art galleries. So many world-famous artists have established footholds in this popular world capital that it has become a mecca for the arts with expanding art schools promot­ ing experimentation and a culture of for­ ward-thinking youth. The first reality that hits you upon­ ar rival in this very attractive German city is its “newness.” It is not in any way “old world.” There was so much destruction from WWII that the Germans destroyed damaged build­ ings or totally rebuilt historical buildings and churches adhering to the original designs in every detail. Berlin is a beautiful city filled with tree- shaded wide boulevards interspersed with large plazas displaying sculptures, fountains, buildings of historical significance, and the ubiquitous cafes. Berliners love to sit in a café, have a wine or beer, and in­ dulge in lively debate. A perfect example of a great Photos: (above) Paul VanDerWerf / Flickr, place to meet would be the most (left) Thor A. Larsen, elegant Gendarmenmarkt Platz that (below) Victor Norton & David Allen / Flickr incorporates three enormous histor­ Above: The East Side Gallery is a 1.3 km long ical buildings—a concert hall and section of the Berlin Wall that consists of 105 twin churches—and several cafes. paintings by artists from all over the world, paint- ed in 1990 on the east side of the Berlin Wall. Anyone having read WWII Left: The Reichstag is an imposing historical spy books set in Berlin are familiar building that is currently the seat of Germany’s with the Tiergarten, Europe’s larg­ Parliament, the Bundestag. est metropolitan park. It runs two Below: The Ishtar Gate is just one of the impres- miles from the Brandenburg Gate sive reconstructions housed in the Pergamon Mu- to the Bahnhof Zoo. Originally the seum on Museum Island. hunting grounds of the elite Prus­ sian royalty, today Berliners use the park for picnics, jogging, bik­ ing, and entertaining children. This bucolic setting of meadows, lakes, and paths lined with large, leafy trees provides Berliners with the perfect respite. All of the guidebooks agree that the As you approach the eastern end of the museums of Berlin are not to be missed and Tiergarten, you may be taken aback by the their collections are some of the best in the sight of the infamous Reichstag building be­ world. Five of the best museums are con­ cause of its enormity and its unusual design. veniently located on Museum Island in the Originally built in 1894, the Reichstag has middle of the Spree Canal that flows through been involved in many momentous occa­ the middle of Berlin. sions in German history. In 1991, after the Along with being an island of incred­ Wall came down, it was determined that the ible treasures, Museum Island is an impor­ government would be moved from Bonn to tant historical venue as well. This island is Berlin and the Reichstag would be the seat the very spot where the city was founded in of the German Parliament (Bundestag). The the Middle Ages. The Pergamon Museum building was redesigned to include a very was built to house reconstructed monumen­ contemporary glass dome at its top. tal buildings from various parts of the world. When you leave the Reichstag and walk The massive Pergamon Altar from Asia a long city block, you reach one of Berlin’s Minor, built by the Greeks in the second most iconic sights, the impressive Bran­ century BC, is over 120 feet wide and 110 denburg Gate. Originally built in the 18th feet deep. The Gate of Miletus, built in the century, it was the most beautiful of Ber­ second century AD by Romans (Hadrian), Born in Stavanger, Thor A. lin’s gates. Today it has become a symbol stands over 100 ft. wide and 50 ft. high. segments for historical purposes. One long Larsen immigrated to New After you are overwhelmed by the segment of the Wall is the East Side Gallery of German re-unification and peace, but no York City with his parents one can forget that during the Cold War, the Greeks and Romans, you come to the amaz­ where artists from all over the world were in 1948. Now retired from Gate symbolized division and suppression. ing Ishtar Gate that is sheathed in cobalt blue invited to express their reactions. a 40-year career as physi- As you walk through the Brandenburg Gate, tiles, built during the reign of Nebuchadnez­ Berlin is a modern, vital, and beautiful cist and engineer, Thor you find yourself on the historic and attrac­ zer II (500 BC). city that makes you feel comfortable and safe draws and paints, and tive Unter den Linden Boulevard, which is, No trip to Berlin is complete without a while offering a wide range of entertainment. writes travel and arts arti- of course, lined with Linden trees. This bou­ look at the infamous “Wall” and Checkpoint cles for a local publication. He’s been married levard at the Spree canal is where you can Charlie, so we had our look as well. Al­ to Arlene for 49 years, and they have two adult catch a boat to Museum Island. though most of it is gone, they retained small children and three grandsons. 16 • January 27, 2017 Travel theNorwegianamerican A winter wonderland: Traveling to Norway in the off season

Victoria Hofmo Brooklyn, N.Y.

I have traveled to Norway about 15 times, all in the summer, except for one win­ ter trip to Oslo. The winter trip was surpris­ ingly fab: a delicate blanket of snow coating the ground, while the amazing light diffused all to shades of purply-blue at dusk and dawn. Watching oodles of children sledding with their fathers on a bright Sunday at Hol­ menkollen, I laughed to myself as all used the tram as a substitute for a rope tow or leg power, leaving a delightful trail of slush in their wake. I wish others would see the coun­ try at this time of the year. So does Innovation Norway / Visit Nor­ way, a tourist board that presented a pro­ gram on January 9 called “Travel in Scan­ dinavia—Norway” in partnership with the American Scandinavian Foundation at their headquarters, Scandinavia House. The fo­ cus was “to help you plan the perfect Nordic vacation. This winter explore Scandinavia’s hidden gems and learn insider tips.” Photo: borisbarabas / Foap / Visitnorway.com The emphasis was not only on nature— A winter view of Bergen. Winter in Norway is beautiful inside and out, from its cultural offerings to the Northern Lights. a given for travel to Norway—but also on culture, as Oslo “has become a European culture capital. [Norway’s] cities are gaining it is always interesting to see how others ex­ about a 20-mile drive from Oslo. Why? Wa­ your head at The Clarion Hotel Royal Chris­ fame for innovative architecture and design perience Norway, especially those who have terfalls, Rhassoul (traditional Moroccan clay tiania in Oslo, they offer packages to The as well as top-notch culinary experiences.” no familial connection. “Norway is a break bath), Japanese Onsen (hot spring for bath­ Well for guests. Receiving credence for culture, rather from the noise,” “Norway is kid-friendly,” ing), 11 pools, 15 saunas and steam rooms, Promoting Norway’s built environment than nature, is a huge shift for Norway. This “Norway feels clean and delicate,” “Norway an Oriental hamam (Turkish bath), etc. It a step further, Visit Norway is offering tours past December Bloomberg Pursuits wrote gives space for couples in love,” “Norway may be the most luxurious adult water park focusing on architecture. “See Norway’s an article entitled “Forget Vienna, Oslo is means a total stress-free vacation,” and “In in the world. For those traveling sans vehi­ man-made wonders in seven days. Spend the European Cultural Capital to Visit Now: Norway even the King is down to earth” are cle, there are five private buses leaving from a week exploring some of the highlights From world-class restaurants to cutting-edge some of the observations of recent visitors. Oslo daily. The spa’s tagline: “Welcome to a of Norwegian architecture, from a wooden museums.” Of course, Visit Norway is lever­ The site also includes some new ex­ World of Wellness—a paradise to be experi­ church that dates back to the 12th century to aging this wonderful change in perception. citing info. “SAS is now offering direct enced,” is not an exaggeration. What a treat the latest high-tech hotel, which blends in I was curious as to why they chose flights from the U.S. East and West Coasts for a winter visit. with nature.” Now that would be a new and Scandinavia House for marketing. Harald to the Northern lights—Alta, Kirkenes, and Too decompressed to leave after your different way to experience Norway. Hansen, Public Information Manager of Tromsø.” While there you can delve into visit? Why not spend a little time in Kolbotn I know we all dream of Norway in the Visit Norway, clarified: “This event was ini­ experiences only available in winter, such and have a meal at the popular Gamle Tarn­ summer, but have you ever considered a win­ tiated by Scandinavia House, and not us. I as cross-country skiing, dog sledding, and huset Restaurant, housed in a lovely tradi­ ter trip? Author William Blake wisely states, was the presenter representing Visit Norway. watching the migration of the largest number tional building. It would provide a nice jux­ “In seed time learn, in harvest teach, in win­ This was the first time for an event like this of humpback whales. The location offers the taposition between the old and new Norway ter enjoy.” Why not enjoy winter in Norway? at Scandinavia House.” unique phenomenon of encountering the au­ of The Well. Gamle Tarnhuset Restaurant of­ As author Anamika Mishra enthuses, “Win­ According to Hansen, Visit Norway has rora borealis. And in January you can be part fers seasonal food and a winter smørgåsbord, ter is not a season, it’s a celebration.” Where no plans to take the presentation on the road, of the Tromsø International Film Festival. as well as winter tapas. And if you are resting better to celebrate it than in Norway? despite the event’s success. “It was a pretty Enjoy a film in a traditional movie theater, full house,” he said. “People were very inter­ outdoors in the snow, or aboard the famous ested and asked a lot of questions after my Hurtigruten. presentation—actually for almost 45 min­ For those of us who travel to Norway utes.” often but are looking for a less costly experi­ Where in Norway? For those who could not attend the pro­ ence, why not check out something new near How well do you know Norway? Match this photo to its the European culture capital of Oslo? Per­ gram, Visit Norway’s website is quite help­ location and email your answer to [email protected]. ful (www.visitnorway.com/plan-your-trip). sonally, I am dying to experience The Well, It offers tourists’ perceptions, which is fun as Norway’s largest spa, located in Kolbotn Correct answers will be entered to win one free month! WOODEN SPOON SCANDINAVIAN SHOP 1617 K Avenue, Plano, TX 75074 • (972) 424-6867

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Photo: Norman Jensen [email protected] • www.woodenspoon.ws Have a photo for “Where in Norway?” Submit it to [email protected]! theNorwegianamerican Travel January 27, 2017 • 17 Passports for pets? Top ten: Fluffy and Fido can easily travel Europe, as Trends in travel long as they have proper documentation Larrie Wanberg Features Editor

Wellness travel is one of the fastest- Norway’s fjord country is a supreme vaca­ growing segments in the travel industry, ac­ tion that can be both lavish in personal ser­ cording to the Global Wellness Institute, a vices (www.vikingcruises) and inspiring in non-profit educational foundation. Wellness cultural experiences (www.norwegiancoast­ travel is reported to be a $494 billion industry. alcruises.com). An overarching trend of wellness travel 6. RVing: For comfort, flexibility, and is combining hospitality, health, relaxation, sheer enjoyment for nature-oriented travel­ learning, and digital tools that enable a con­ ers, it’s hard to beat renting an RV in Nor­ sumer to preview a tour, to share the experi­ way, but it can be expensive and governed by ence as it happens, and to archive the journey mountain road restrictions (www.motorho­ for future enjoyment. menorway.com). A very popular alternative Travel gets “in your blood,” often for a is Norway’s extensive camping and caravan­ lifetime. For students, tours make the world ning network for families to be up close and real. For young families, travel opens wide personal with nature and culture (www.visit­ eyes of children for absorption of the experi­ norway.com/hotels-more/caravan-camping). ence. For retired, adventures beyond the ho­ 7. Veterans: Worldwide tours for veteran rizon or on a dream list reward a life of work. groups are available, but of special interest And for seniors, revisiting earlier footsteps is the historic story of the 99th Infantry Bat­ or reflecting on what they have seen of the talion (Separate), a WWII unit of Norwegian world impacts travel trends over generations. Americans that was specialized in mountain As one who has owned three travel agen­ warfare and participated in major battles in cies over the years, I’m referencing what I Europe (www.99battalion.org). see as the top ten trends in travel today: 8. Road Scholars: A leading non-profit Photo: Norwegian Food Safety Authority 1. Heritage Tours: Tracing one’s roots travel organization for seniors, Road Schol­ Animal ID pages inside an EU Pet Passport. is popular. Nostalgic tours to countries of ars offers 14 tours to Norway, including the origin are common, but connecting geneal­ “Legends of Norway,” and specializes in in­ ogy of travelers to farms and communities tergenerational travel whereby grandparents M. Michael Brady in Norway through a library collection of tour with grandchildren for a shared adven­ Asker, Norway “bygde­bøker” documents (family histories) ture (www.roadscholar.org). is a specialty (www.brekketours.com). 9. Student Study Tours: Countless op­ Europeans who traveled with their pets The Pet Passport scheme has been place 2. Association Travel: Sons of Norway, portunities exist for students of all ages to once faced obstacles in crossing borders with long enough to function smoothly. But it a membership organization, has a long his­ study in Norway, ranging from attendance them. Pet health rules differed, and many isn’t error-free. An owner who loses a Pet tory of sponsoring guided tours to Norway at a folk school, an exchange program, or to countries required quarantines of up to six Passport may apply to the veterinarian who as part of a benefit service (www.sofn.com). the ultimate of a university-associated year months for entering pets. No more. A Pet issued it for a replacement, which may be Alumni associations of universities too orga­ abroad with the Fulbright program (www. Passport scheme implemented in all Euro­ inconvenient if the loss is first noticed upon nize group travel, often fully booked a year studyabroad.com/in-norway). pean countries in the EU and the EEA now crossing a border between countries. Worse in advance. 10. World of Incentive Travel: The permits an accompanied animal to travel al­ yet, an implanted microchip may fail so it 3. Historical Societies: Vesterheim Mu­ wide, wide world of incentive travel is gen­ most as easily as its owner. cannot be read by a scanner. A veterinarian seum and Historical Society in Decorah, erally a corporate-sponsored event, such as a An owner may cross a border with up to can remove a failed microchip and send it to Iowa, offer tours to Norway that specialize retreat-type meeting or convention at a spe­ five pets, each with a Pet Passport of uniform the manufacturer to find if it can be read. If with artists and historians as guides (vester­ cial destination that is a business reward for design and dimensions, slightly larger than so, the manufacturer can issue a confirma­ heim.org/norway-tours). Likewise, the sales performance or skill-building (www.in­ the international standard size of passports tion of the reading to be entered in the Pet Norwegian American Historical Society in centivetravelgroup.com). Incentives can also for humans, and with the number of an im­ Passport along with the number of the new Northfield, Minn., promotes study tours to be loyalty programs, such as frequent flyer planted microchip or readable tattoo identi­ replacement chip. If not, the passport ap­ Norway with faculty as guides (www.naha. rewards by the airlines or hospitality sites or fying the animal. plication procedure must be repeated anew, stolaf.edu). travel cards that encourage consumers to in­ In most cases, the Pet Passport essen­ which may involve putting the animal in 4. Adventure Travel: In Norway, adven­ dependently choose their travel destinations. tially is a certificate of successful vaccina­ quarantine, just as in the days before the Pet ture travel in nature has a full menu of choic­ tion against rabies by an accredited veteri­ Passport scheme came about. es with its mountains, rivers, and valleys Trends in travel today are as broad as narian. A microchip is small, about the size The Pet Passport is available throughout (norway-adventures.com/english/home). For the concept of wellness itself. Trends put the of a large grain of rice, implanted under the Europe but not elsewhere. If you live outside the ultimate in adventure, visit Voss during traveler in the center of a circle of opportuni­ skin of an animal using a hypodermic needle. Europe and wish to travel with your pet in “Extreme Sports Week” in July to watch or ties to pick and choose benefits that create an Microchips and scanners that read them are one or more European countries, you should even experience adventures almost beyond idealized experience for the consumer in a standardized and are readily available world­ go to a veterinarian accredited to certify pets belief (en.visitvoss.no/ideas-and-inspiration/ rich, intergenerational experiential environ­ wide, as they are used for identification by for international travel—in the USA by the adventure-holidays). ment, often driven by the age of the internet pet owners, kennels, breeders, humane soci­ Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service 5. Cruising: A coastal voyage along and social media platforms. eties, and others. of the Department of Agriculture (APHIS, The procedures for preparing animals to USDA) and in Canada by the Canadian Food be issued passports are uniform throughout Inspection Agency (CFIA). The vet will fill Norwegian- Europe. Most countries ban dangerous dogs, in a Veterinary Certificate in accordance with Always the owned which are designated as animals that get dan­ EU regulations. Once in a European country best possible since 1963 gerously out of control in public places. For with your pet and certificate, you may be al­ prices! instance, Norway bans six dangerous breeds: lowed to apply for a European Pet Passport. Pit Bull Terrier, American Staffordshire Ter­ AIR – SEA – LAND SPECIALISTS rier, Fila Brasileiro, Toso Inu, Dogo Argen­ Further reading: tino, and Czechoslovakian Wolfdog, as well “Travelling With Pets,” Norwegian Contact us for all your travel needs, worldwide and domestic as cross-breeds of them. Many countries, in­ Food Safety Authority info sheet (English), 483 80th Street, Brooklyn, NY 11209 • Tel: (718) 748-7400 cluding Norway, require anti-rabies vaccina­ link: www.mattilsynet.no/language/english/ Fax: (718) 238-3604 • [email protected] • [email protected] tion followed by a rabies antibody titration animals/travelling_with_pets test, as well as an anti-echinococcus (tape­ “Pet travel from the U.S. to Finland, worm) treatment. Accordingly, the passport Malta, Norway, Ireland, or the United King­ LEWIS O. TITLAND Quality Accounting & Tax Services for: has spaces for veterinarians to enter the details dom,” U.S. Department of Agriculture, Ani­ Certified Public Accountant Small businesses of the relevant treatments. A vet issuing a Pet mal and Plant Health Inspection Service info (206)789-5433 Passport will always ask about the countries sheet, link: www.aphis.usda.gov/aphis/pet- Individuals 221 1st Ave. W. Ste. 400 Specialized Assistance to which the animal is to be taken, so it may travel/by-country/eu/eu-echinococcus/pet- Seattle, WA 98119 fulfill the destination country requirements. travel-echinococcus-treatments 18 • January 27, 2017 Norway near you theNorwegianamerican What’s going on in your neighborhood? Calendar of Events california ture holds for Norwegian-American folk arts. Visit occupied Norway. Navigating distance and the Youth Camp Breakfast Lapskaus and Bingo the exhibition to discover more about this unique curious allure of strangers, both Nina and Ruth Feb. 18, 8:00 a.m.—12:00 p.m. Feb. 17, 6:00 p.m. community and how it has supported creativity, must make decisions that will change the course Bothell, Wash. Santa Rosa, Calif. cultural exchange, and growth for so many people of their lives. At Scandinavia House. Free. The Bothell Sons of Norway will serve Viking Join Freya Lodge for lapskaus and bingo! Din- over the last 50 years! (French) toast, troll sausage, fruit, coffee, tea, ner is served at 6:00 p.m. and bingo will begin oregon and milk. The cost is $10 or $7 for children un- by 6:45. Tickets are $20 and available at www. Barneløpet Laura Loge in Concert der 11. Proceeds will benefit the Youth Sum- brownpapertickets.com/event/2789692 or by Feb. 4, 10:00 a.m. Feb. 4, 7:30 p.m. mer Camp Scholarships. calling 1 (800) 838-3006. At Norway Hall. Decorah, Iowa Portland, Ore. Enjoy the winter at this non-competitive ski or Soprano Laura Loge and pianist Sandra Mo- Mostly Nordic: Nynorsk! Nordahl Grieg Lodge Anniversary Dinner walk event for children ages 3 to 13. The event is gensen, who specialize in Scandinavian songs Feb. 19, 4:00 p.m. Feb. 18, 6:00 p.m. free and held at the Decorah Community Prairie, and piano works, will perform the music of Grieg Seattle, Wash. Los Gatos, Calif. with registration from 9:40 to 10:00 a.m. It is open at Nordia House. Cost is $17 for NNW members Soprano Laura Lodge is joined by Canadian- In recognition of the 70th anniversary of Thor to children of all skill levels. Participants must pro- and $20 for non-members. Buy tickets at www. Danish pianist Sandra Mogensen. Together Heyerdahl’s historic Kon-Tiki expedition, join vide their own skis; there are a limited number of scanheritage.org/upcoming-events. they bring to life Grieg’s duplicitous Vinje Nordahl Grieg Lodge for a Polynesian-style children’s skis for rent at Decorah Bicycles. After songs, highlighting the poetry O. E. Vinje dinner. Be sure to wear your island attire! completing the course, participants are welcomed Cook and Eat: Bløtkaken wrote in nynorsk, steeped with elements of The Membership Longevity Awards and 2017 to hot chocolate and cookies. In the absence of Feb. 14, 6:30—8:30 p.m. the Telemark dialect and selected lyric pieces Presidential Awards will be presented after snow, children will walk the course. For more info Portland, Ore. for piano. At the Nordic Heritage Museum. dinner. Cost is $28 for adults and free for chil- contact [email protected] or (563) This soft Norwegian layer cake was made for Tickets on sale at nordicmuseum.org. dren 12 and under. RSVP and payment must 382-9681, ext. 215. celebrating! Construct a delicious bløtkake with be received by Feb. 13; make checks payable guest cook Sonja Haugen. The Cook and Eat Com- Anders Beer Wilse Photo Coloring to “Nordahl Grieg Lodge” and mail to Kari War- Massachusetts mittee will assist the class in learning the eggy Feb. 22, 10:00—11:30 a.m. ner, Financial Secretary, 1000 El Camino Real, Bølgen Screening delicacy of this springtime sponge cake heaped Seattle, Wash. Apt. 107, Santa Clara, CA 95050-4284. Please Feb. 5, 3:00 p.m. with custard, jam, and berries. Cost is $20 for In conjunction with the Nordic Heritage Muse- People, Places, Changing Lands, bring donations of non-perishable food, used West Newton, Mass. NNW members and $25 for non-members. Buy um’s exhibit paperback books, and 2017 calendars. Join Norumbega Lodge to watch the Norwegian tickets at www.scanheritage.org/cook-eat. kids handcolor copies of black and white pho- film Bølgen (The Wave), a thriller about a land- tographs taken by Wilse. At the Nordic Heri- Colorado slide that sends rock and earth crashing down tage Museum. Cost is free with admission to pennsylvania the museum. Barneløpet 2017 from the mountains to the sea, giving everyone Northeast Pennsylvania Regional Ski for Light Feb. 25, 9:00 a.m.—2:00 p.m. ten minutes to outrace the resulting tsunami to Feb. 19—26 Granby, Colo. higher ground. 105 minutes, in Norwegian with Sherman, Penn. Wisconsin This cross-country ski event for the entire English subtitles. In the Nordic Hall at the SLC. The Northeast Pennsylvania Regional Ski for Light Traditional Lutefisk & Meatball Dinner family is located at beautiful Snow Mountain program will be held at Land of the Vikings. For Feb. 11 Ranch/YMCA outside Winter Park. There will NaturePlay Screening more information please go to the website at Wind Lake, Wis. be kids races of 1K, 2.5K, and 5K loops while Feb. 11, 1:00 p.m. www.nepasfl-sfh.org or email [email protected]. Servings at 11:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 4:00 parents cheer them on. Contact (970) 412- West Newton, Mass. p.m. At Norway Lutheran Church: 6321 Heg 0433 or [email protected] for more info. Showcasing multiple forest kindergartens, ad- Park Rd. By reservation only. Call Donna at venture playgrounds, nature playgrounds, and el- Virginia (262) 534-3862 for more info. Love, Loss, and the Cycle of Life District of Columbia ementary and high schools in Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, the NaturePlay film shows us a dif- now—Feb. 20 In Trunks, Hearts, and Hands Program Someone is Going to Come ferent path in outdoor learning and the value of Richmond, Va. Feb. 12, 11:30 a.m.—1:30 p.m. now—Feb. 5 play. Intertwined with Scandinavian cultural atti- Preeminent American artist Jasper Johns found La Crosse, Wis. Washington, D.C. tudes and Nordic research about education, chil- his way forward in part by looking to the work of Join Vesterheim Executive Director Chris John- Scena Theatre presents Someone is Going dren, play, and the outdoors, this film will open Norwegian Expressionist painter Edvard Munch. son and Vesterheim’s Registrar, Archivist, and to Come, a riveting drama by Norway’s Jon your eyes. At the Scandinavian Cultural Center. This exhihibit assembles more than 120 paint- Youth Educator Jennifer Kovarik for In Trunks, Fosse at the ATLAS Performing Arts Center. A Cost is $8 or $4 for SCC members. ings, drawings, and prints in once-in-a-lifetime Hearts, and Hands—What Norwegian Immi- strange couple moves into an isolated, run- combinations to trace the route Johns traveled in grants Brought to the United States. Between down house to be alone, far from the prying relation to Munch’s work. At Altria Group Gallery, 1825 and 1980, nearly one million Norwe- eyes of others. Yet they both grow increas- minnesota NewMarket Gallery. gians left for new lives in America. Explore the ingly anxious that someone is going to come. At the Table by Woodworker Jim Sannerud immigrant experience through stories associ- Showings at 8:00 p.m. Thursday through Sat- now—Feb. 14 Nisse Workshop ated with artifacts in Vesterheim’s collection. urday and at 3:00 p.m. on Sunday. Cost on Minneapolis, Minn. Feb. 25, 9:00 a.m.—2:00 p.m. Tickets are $30 for Vesterheim members and Sunday and Thursday is $30 for adults and $20 People have been gathering around tables for Fairfax, Va. $35 for non-members. Please RSVP by Feb. 1; for students and seniors with valid ID; cost on centuries—to enjoy a meal, to share stories, or This workshop will be led by one of the Sons of contact Karla Brown at kbrown@vesterheim. Friday and Saturday is $35 for adults and $25 work together on projects. After visiting his fam- Norway Washington Lodge’s festival artisans, org, or (563) 382-9681, ext. 107 to make a for students and seniors. Purchase tickets at ily’s farm in Rauland, Norway, master woodcarver Karen Richardson. Participants will leave with a reservation or for more info. At the Radisson atlasarts.secure.force.com/ticket/#details_ Jim Sannerud felt compelled to create a set of completed nisse of their own made of natural Hotel La Crosse. a0Si000000Hi3gyEAB or call (202) 339-7993. furniture in the tradition of brukskunst—art used fibers. Light lunch provided. $15. Limited space. in everyday life. The result is a beautifully crafted Email [email protected] to reserve your Fosselyngen Lodge Torsk Supper Florida table and eight unique chairs. As part of this ex- spot. hibit, Norway House invites you to book the table Feb. 18, 4:00—7:00 p.m. Norwegian Church Service for your next professional meeting, community Milwaukee, Wis. Feb. 5, 4:00 p.m. discussion, book club, or study group. To reserve Washington This buffet at Norway House includes boiled Naples, Fla. the table, contact Rachel Peterson at rachel@ The Photography of Anders Beer Wilse codfish, Norwegian meatballs, boiled pota- The Norwegian Seamen’s Church is sending norwayhouse.org or (612) 423-9094. now—Feb. 28 toes, vegetables, pickled beets, cranberry pastors to conduct services in Norwegian or Seattle, Wash. sauce, flat bread, dessert, and coffee. It also Swedish at Christus Victor Lutheran Church. Norwegian engineer and self-taught photog- includes sales of homemade baked goods and new york rapher Anders Beer Wilse lived in Seattle from other various items. Cost is $13 for adults and illinois HACC/NACC Joint Shipping Conference 1892-1900 and left a legacy of early photographs $5 for children ages 4 to 11. Open seating is Norge Ski Club Winter Tournament Feb. 9, 2017 documenting this period of unprecentend growth on a first-come, first-serve basis. Call (414) Feb. 11—12 New York, N.Y. and change in the city’s history. This exhibition in- 321-2637 for more information or to make Fox River Grove, Ill. Join the HACC and NACC for their 23rd annual cludes Wilse’s photographic images taken both in reservations for large parties. Shipping’s Survivors: Ski jumpers from around the world will com- joint shipping conference, the Pacific Northwest region, as well as from se- Strategies for Success in a New Era pete on the 70-meter hill at Norge Ski Club. at the Wal- lect regions in Norway after 1900. At the Nordic “Norwegian in Norwegian-America” Gates open at 11:00 a.m. and competition fol- dorf-Astoria Hotel. Cost is $795 for members and Heritage Museum. Feb. 25, 1:00—2:00 p.m. lows from 12:00 to 4:00 p.m. Admission but- $895 for non-members; cost for additional del- Stoughton, Wis. tons are required and cost $10 at local mer- egates from firms is $725 per person. Register at Cook and Eat Norwegian David Natvig is a Ph.D. Candidate in Scandina- chants and $14 at the entrance. Visit www. www.eventbrite.com/e/haccnacc-23rd-annual- Feb. 10, 2017, 6:00—9:00 p.m. vian Linguistics at the University of Wiscon- norgeskiclub.com/ for more information. joint-shipping-conference-tickets-29522486552. Bothell, Wash. sin–Madison. He studies Norwegian dialects The class for adults at the Bothell Sons of Norway and bilingualism, both in Norway and the iowa SATContemporary Reading Series: Thinking Time will feature Norwegian fish balls served with clas- United States. In his talk, “Norwegian in Nor- Feb. 13, 7:30 p.m. Fifty Years of Folk Art sic Norwegian side dishes and dessert. The cost is wegian-America,” he will present his research New York, N.Y. now—April 23 $20 per person. To register, please contact Selma in Ulen, Minn., and discuss changes in the Thinking Time tells the story of two women who Decorah, Iowa Snaring at (425) 385-2144. community that lead to the loss of Norwegian face the same predicament despite bring several Learn about the history of Norwegian folk arts, language use. At Livsreise. generations apart: Nina is infatuated by a Roma explore how Vesterheim has helped preserve street musician; her grandmother Ruth reminisc- and promote them, and imagine what the fu- Send your event to [email protected] or call (206) 784-4617 es about her love for a Nazi officer in German- to be added to The Norwegian American! Check www.norwegianamerican.com/events for complete listings Event listings are free, but space is limited. Please contact us at least one month prior to event. theNorwegianamerican Norway near you January 27, 2017 • 19 Fosse’s minimalism takes the stage The Norwegian playwright is a challenge for American audiences, but this Washington, DC, production of Someone is Going to Come brings life to the spaces between words

ask that an audience work a bit more to get into them—that they ‘participate’ in his Christine Foster Meloni world, in his universe. It is an active journey Washington, D.C. that you make with Fosse in his world.” Because of his deep interest in Fosse, Works by Norwegian playwright Jon McNamara is determined to make the Nor­ Fosse present a serious challenge. American wegian’s plays understood and accepted audiences usually expect a play to have an in the United States. “I am attracted to Jon evolving plot and a certain amount of action. Fosse’s writing and work by his Vision. His Plots in Fosse’s plays seem to move slowly language is economical but fully realized as and exist more in the mind than in outward more of a series of tone poems than conven­ action. tional writing for the stage. It is the shocking Scena Theatre’s Artistic Director Rob­ brilliance of his writing and characters that ert McNamara has accepted the challenge compels me to hear his voice. And then to and successfully produced Fosse’s first play want to bring it to the stage.” (1995), Someone is Going to Come. Opening After the opening performance, Ameri­ night of the Washington, D.C., premiere of can Marie Hansen was asked for her reaction this work took place on January 9 at the Atlas to the play. “The acting was superb,” she re­ Performing Arts Center. plied. “The entire play depended on the qual­ The play has three characters: He, She, ity of the actors because it was completely and The Man. The absence of names immedi­ dependent on the different, subtle ways of ately gives a clue to the playwright’s intention Photo: Jae Yi Photography / courtesy of Scena expressing the same few phrases. It seemed to give his characters a sense of universality. Someone has come: She (Nanna Ingvarsson) sees her worst fear come true when The Man (Joseph like an exercise in acting and, for the audi­ When the play begins, She, played by Carlson) drops by the secluded home she and her husband bought to be alone together in. ence, an exercise in filling in the blanks. I Nanna Ingvarsson, and He, played by David like this kind of ‘exercise’ now and then, but Bryan Jackson, are standing in front of an old, for a steady diet, I like a well-plotted story dilapidated house by the sea that they have re­ to explain who he is. He was the house’s yond the dialogue to the actors’ movements, with rich characters.” cently bought, sight unseen. They chose this owner and gloats about the money he has silences, and pauses. The enthusiastic response of Norwegian house in a very remote area because they want made on the sale. He never thought anyone The play is undeniably dark. This is in Jon-Åge Øyslebø showed that he was more to be alone, to be alone together. would buy the run-down house. She soon keeping with much modern Norwegian lit­ attuned to the writing of Fosse and felt that They initially seem excited because falls into a catatonic state as he continues erature. McNamara, however, finds latent the production captured the essence of the their dream is going to be realized. But at to talk, unaware that he is simply talking to humor in it. Many in the audience were hesi­ playwright. “True to Jon Fosse’s minimalistic the same time they appear fearful, especially himself. tant at first to laugh but soon felt comfort­ writing style, I think Robert McNamara and She. They delay going into the house, trying When He reappears and notices The Man able, thinking that perhaps Fosse and/or the the cast managed to create the tension and to convince themselves that they will now be talking to She, he suffers an extreme jealous director meant to temper the desperation of nerve that this play calls for. The characters very happy. reaction. He becomes distraught and eventu­ the play’s characters with humor. are credible; you really feel for them in their She is the first to begin to crack. Maybe ally curls up on the couch, unable to speak. He and She themselves are not laughable, odd pursuit of what they think is happiness.” the isolation they desired will be too over­ The play ends with no clear indication of far from it. They are desperate, unhappy in­ And Øyslebø singled out the speech of whelming, she thinks. And the vastness of the fate of He and She. He is jealous. How can dividuals. But how they react to their state is The Man in particular: “I particularly liked the sea frightens her. Then she begins to fear he live in this place knowing that The Man at times humorous because of their dramatic the fact that The Man had a way of speaking that someone will come, that they will not lives nearby? She is fearful. How can she live reactions as well as their exaggerated body that reminded me both of small towns in the be alone together. She is certain. Someone here knowing that The Man lives nearby? movements and dramatic expressions. Appalachians and of the movie Fargo, which will come. The minimalist Fosse has given the Fosse is currently the most performed added to the atmosphere of remoteness.” He tries to reassure her that everything characters simple sentences that are short living European playwright. His plays have Fosse is frequently compared to his great will be fine, that they will be very happy. No and concise. Many of these sentences are been translated into more than 40 languages fellow countryman, Henrik Ibsen. He reacts one is going to come. They finally decide to repeated over and over again. This repeti­ and have found success around the world. by saying that the comparison is a disservice enter the house. Soon they hear noises out­ tion could be extremely boring but the actors But it takes courage to present Fosse to an to Ibsen and a disservice to him as well. side. He thinks he sees someone through the succeed masterfully in making each repeti­ American audience. McNamara explains window. They go outside to check. He goes tion sound fresh by varying their intonation why this is the case: Scena’s production of Someone is Going to behind the house while She sits down in front. and volume and their facial expressions. The “Our theatrical tradition is largely that Come runs through February 5 at the Atlas Then The Man, played by Joseph Carl­ audience then tends to find the words them­ of realism or ‘naturalism.’ Jon Fosse is any­ Performing Arts Center at 1333 H Street NE son, appears. He approaches She and begins selves less important and begins to focus be­ thing but realistic—but he is real. His plays in Washington, D.C.

Barneløpet children’s ski & walk event to be held at Decorah Prairie

Special Release Vesterheim

Enjoy the winter at the 18th annual The Decorah Community Prairie is ac­ conditions, listen to local radio stations for Vesterheim Museum and Sons of Norway cessed by car at the south end of Ohio Street, cancellations. Barneløpet, a non-competitive ski or walk near Aase Haugen Homes. The trail will be event for children ages 3-13. The event is in a loop, with the start and finish at the site For more information about Barneløpet con- free and will be held on Saturday, February 4, of the butterfly garden. After completing the tact Vesterheim at (563) 382-9681. Barnelø- at 10:00 a.m., with registration from 9:40 to course, participants and their families are wel­ pet is sponsored by Sons of Norway Lodges— 10:00 a.m. at the Decorah Community Prairie. come to gather around the fire and enjoy hot Valdres #503 in Decorah, Iowa, Heimbygda Participants must provide their own skis. chocolate and home-baked cookies provided #376 in Lanesboro, Minnesota, and Valheim Barneløpet is open to children of all skill by the Sons of Norway lodge members. #364 in Spring Grove, Minnesota—and Jon levels and is a great event for the entire fam­ Along with the one-mile main loop for and Mary Hart of Decorah. ily. Everyone’s a winner! Each registered skiing and walking, there will be a shorter participant will receive a printed bib for the loop for younger skiers. Caregivers can walk Photo courtesy of Vesterheim event and a medal at the finish line. Sons of or ski the course with the children or may Grace Blikre enjoys Barneløpet, a non-competi- Norway lodges all over the country sponsor choose to stand along the course and cheer. tive ski or walk event for children ages 3-13. The Barneløpet events, modeled after the Ameri­ Sleds are welcome for younger siblings. event is free and will be held on Saturday, Febru- can Birkebeiner cross-country ski race held In the absence of snow, children will ary 4, at 10:00 a.m., with registration from 9:40 in Hayward, Wisconsin. walk the course. If in doubt about weather to 10:00 a.m. at the Decorah Community Prairie. 20 • January 27, 2017 Norwegian Heritage theNorwegianamerican Stein Hoff, “extreme rower,” on his solo north-Atlantic crossing attempt

Photos courtesy of Stein Hoff Top left: Hoff sets off in May, all sunny skies and < hoff optimism. From page 1 Above: On August 6, caught in a storm and with his boat having taken serious damage, Hoff isn’t ing when I was 17. sure he’ll survive. When I met my wife Diana, she shared Left: Fortunately, the story has a happy ending. my dream and we sailed around the world Here Stein and Diana Hoff are reunited after his with our children from 1977 to 1982. My first ordeal and rescue. ocean rowing was in 1997 with a friend in a regatta across the Atlantic from the Canary Is­ lands to Barbados. In 2002 I rowed alone from Portugal, Europe, to Guyana, South America. I offered them. They are hoping the boat will VH: When did you first get the itch to explore? be found and may display the boat and my SH: As a young boy; I wanted to sail to the things in London. tropics. When you grow up along the coldish They even made a cartoon about my voy­ coast of Norway, it is not so unusual. age, a tradition. Robert Ripley began as an art­ ist, making cartoons of the most unbelievable VH: And when did you actually begin? things and people. I signed my shirt and hat SH: I went to Scotland to study medicine in VH: Your most recent adventure was a solo VH: Would you consider attempting it again? and some copies of the cartoon of me at Rip­ Glasgow and there met Diana, who was two trip. What made you want to do this? SH: Yes, but it is probably unrealistic. I have ley’s Odditorium in Times Square. Journalists years ahead of me. Diana had lived in Brazil SH: I always knew the Northern Atlantic promised I wouldn’t do it next year, but were invited, but it happened on November for two years as a young girl and could eas­ Route was much tougher than the Mid-At­ maybe in 2018? Depends on my fitness and 9—the day after the Presidential Election. ily share my dreams about traveling around lantic, which I had crossed twice. economy, and Diana’s blessing! the world. We had two children when we left Also, I was a big admirer of Frank Sam­ So, the Fox II voyager was trumped by Norway and one more when we returned. uelsen who started in New York and rowed VH: Diana, are you okay with that? Trump. An interesting coincidence, as the We needed to have income on the way across the Atlantic. And of course Samuelsen DH: Yes, I think he can do it from the expe­ original Fox expedition also had dismal press. and first spent more than a year in Barbados, lived in Farsund not far from Kristiansand rience he gained this year. He had very bad On the trip Hoff also visited P.S. 43 then 15 months in New Zealand, and finally where we lived for 26 years. winds, but he also needed to be better pre­ school in Bronx, where he gave two lectures. three months in South Africa. Galapagos, Eas­ pared for it. He will also need a better boat. Diana and Stein shared a few of the ques­ ter Island, Pitcairn Islands, Tahiti, Cook Is­ VH: How is boating solo different from go­ tions students asked: Were you scared of dy­ lands, and Tonga were among the highlights. ing together? VH: How else do you challenge yourselves? ing? What is your favorite animal of the sea? We managed to alternate between sailing and SH: In a way we are not apart. Thanks to SH: We do all the time, really. Both Diana What made you do it? Were you lonely? working as doctors, usually moving ashore modern communication we mail back and and I take part in long-distance walking. Hoff also did a lecture for Torskeklub­ and sending the children to local schools. forth every day. Diana, my daughter, and my We’ve done the Sahara Marathon—246 kilo­ ben’s New York chapter at their yearly lun­ daughter’s children prepared cards and small meters in six days. You have to carry all your cheon with partners. He was particularly VH: You and your wife share many interests. gifts for me to open. stuff with you, 30 to 40 pounds. pleased that Victor Samuelsen and Ragnar Is that what first attracted you to her? I missed Diana, of course, but I don’t This year, after we finished preparing Meyer-Knutsen and their wives were pres­ SH: We actually met through the university have a problem being alone. the boat, Fox II, we took part in a long- ent. “They have been great supporters and rowing club, where we were both active DH: Going solo is a bit lonelier. [She has distance walk in Yorkshire; 50 miles took help,” explained Hoff. members. We have now been together for 49 also rowed alone from the Canary Islands to us 18 hours. Walking is something you can years and married for 48. Meeting her has Barbados and speaks from experience!] do even if you have bad knees. When we ar­ VH: What do you see for your future? been a tremendous partnership. It’s the best rived at 2:00 a.m., we were served hot soup DH: We’re now going to buy ourselves a thing that has ever happened to me! VH: The accounts I read sound harrowing. and buns. Finally you unlace your boots and second-hand motorboat. Big enough to sleep SH: I thought I was going to snuff it twice. take a hot shower. It’s amazing how you find in and be independent for a few days at a VH: How would you define what you do: ex­ Rolling right around was not too bad, but such pleasure in these simple things. time. A boat like that is more practical than a plorers, adventurers? twice the boat was pushed over on the side Two weeks ago we did the West High­ sailboat for the coast of Norway. SH: It sounds so prestigious. so that it was almost upside down for many land Walk [in Scotland]—did about 18 miles SH: We’ll carry on with walking and hik­ Diana Hoff: Travelers and extreme rowers. minutes at a time. I did not think it would daily, plus hiked to the highest mountain in ing together. In Connecticut the other day self-right and thought it was the end. On the Britain. We are very privileged people. we took a short morning walk and saw a VH: What are some of the adventures you’ve last occasion, I got my camera out to say big owl, two woodpeckers, and a couple of shared? goodbye to my family. Lying upside down VH: You were at Ripley’s this past week; can squirrels in trees covered with colorful fall SH: We have in all the years of sailing en­ surrounded by clothes and bits and pieces, you explain why you were invited? foliage. It is good to be alive! countered a few scary episodes. We hit a including my urine bottle, I said I love you SH: It was my friend Victor Samuelsen who I also know that life is not eternal. I was sleeping sperm whale once. Worst was may­ all and mentioned all their names. I didn’t told Ripley’s about my trip and asked them sad when I felt I was about to die, but I felt be sailing back across the North Atlantic in think I would survive in the cold water. The if they would be interested in including a prepared for it. I am now 71 and I’ve had such 2014 when an enormous wave caused a big wind and spray pelted the boat. It sounded 70-year-old who is rowing alone across the a great life—how much more can I demand? leak in the back of our catamaran. Fortunate­ like being in a shower. There was a lot of Atlantic. They got involved and agreed to ly we were four people aboard and managed damage to my equipment. But I pushed the sponsor a certain amount if I was successful. This story has been edited for length. To read to plug the hole, but it took a long time to wrong button and my message was never re­ In the end [although he did not succeed] the full interview, please visit www.norwe- bail her out and make a temporary repair. corded—just as well! they did help. They bought some equipment gianamerican.com theNorwegianamerican Norwegian Heritage January 27, 2017 • 21 A student’s impressions of Norway Thoughts on living in Levanger as an exchange student from Slovenia

is the learning by doing. We have also had the privilege to expe­ Jure Kacafura rience and enjoy education in (and through) Slovenia / Levanger, Norway nature, which also plays an important role in schooling here. We went on a canoe trip, My home is a tiny European country probably the most notorious (terrifying) few called Slovenia. It is 20 times smaller than days in the whole semester. Paddling all day Norway, and I find the vast and magnificent long, some of it pretty adrenaline pumping, nature in Scandinavia fascinating (or even and sleeping in the wilderness waiting for mesmerizing) in comparison. But the thing a bear to show up and preparing our proper that amazes me the most is the way people response (which would be staying calm and live. I had high expectations for this Nordic slowly retreating) was truly experiencing fri­ country’s society. If a person has such hopes, luftsliv. This is a word plainly translated to it is very likely that one ends up being disap­ free air life, which you must experience to pointed, but when I arrived I was impressed truly understand, preferably with seasoned nevertheless. Generally known facts about Norwegian mentors like I did. It is a big thing gender equality, very little racism, modern here—this free, weather-careless, natural infrastructure, and the great educational sys­ living. I think it is one of the most important tem became tangible to me. things for people to stay down-to-earth. The I am studying at Nord University in a ever-existing connection with nature gives small town named Levanger, close to Nor­ both energy and knowledge to live. way’s third-largest city, Trondheim. It all Photo: Jure Kacafura Now I am well into the last half of my started last year when a chance to come to Norway through a tent flap: one of the most unique things about Norway is friluftsliv, the particular time here, and I have started working at a the North as an Erasmus exchange student sense that Scandinavians have that the wilderness is their home. school for immigrants over 16 years old. presented itself. I grabbed it with both hands, Most of them are refugees seeking asylum knowing an exciting journey was ahead of and Norway is providing them with basic me. The first thing to warmly greet me in rope, and I must say it was very pleasant. restrictive in all of Europe), the drive went by education and of course language learning the North was the freedom to roam around Pure and careless joy in nature! swiftly. After 3,500 kilometers (2,200 miles) I so they can communicate in Norwegian. My and camp anywhere I wanted to, as long as After visiting Oslo, Lillehammer, and parked my car in front of my new home. impressions about this school are very posi­ a house was not nearby. I enjoyed travelling other places along the “not so famous as We started the school year with lectures, tive, and I think Norway is doing a good job during the summer through Denmark, Swe­ route 66” main road E6, my GPS led me to followed by field trips, and last but not least with individuals whose luck has turned on den, and Norway, sleeping in a tent along the Levanger. The traffic was smooth as silk practice placement. All lectures were very them in one way or another. The teachers are way. That was very different from any other and even though I was not used to such low interesting and we got a sense of the educa­ car trips I had made through continental Eu­ speeds (speed limits in Norway are the most tional system. What I liked the most about it See > impressions, page 25

Anders Beer Wilse Photography: Life of a Young Norwegian Pioneer En Emigrants Ungdomserindringer Volume 1 Written and photographed by Anders Beer Wilse Bilingual English Norwegian, translated into English by Odd-Steinar Dybvad Raneng. Edited by Deb Nelson Gourley and Christian Wilse. Copyright © 2015 Anders Beer Wilse Family

Anders Beer Wilse, 1865-1949, is one of Norway’s most famous photographers. He worked in the USA from 1884-1900 before returning to Norway, and docu- mented all his adventures—and his homeland—in photography and writing. Wilse wrote En Emigrants Ungdomserin- dringer (1936) and Norsk Landskap og To climb in the rig of all the laid-to ships was boys’ greatest delight and joy. Norske Menn (1943). The first of these is — Å klatre i reggen på alle de oplagte serialized here. skutene var gutters størtse fryd og glede.

But the funniest of all our animals were the two fox cubs that we had tamed Men de morsomste av alle dyrene våre var to revunger som vi hadde tem- so that they were like faithful dogs. When we took the rifle and let them out of their met så de var som tro selskapshunder. Når vi tok geværet og slapp dem ut av enclosure they flew around us just like pups. And off they went. They ran up the gården sin, fløi de rundt oss akkurat som hvalper. Og så bar det avsted. De stakk hill in an instant and disappeared. As soon as we were in the forest they were op i heien i et blunk og forsvant. Så snart vi kom op i skogen, var de ved siden beside us again and following us faithfully. But as soon as they noticed that there av oss igjen og fulgte oss trolig. Men så snart de merket at der var andre men- were other people close by, they disappeared and did not come back until they nesker i nærheten, stakk de av og kom ikke tilbake før de følte sig trygge. Skjøt felt safe again. If we shot a bird—a thrush, a jay, or the like, they immediately ran vi en fugl—en trost, en nøtteskrike eller lignende, fløi de straks bort og forsynte and helped themselves from the spoils, which they shared in a brotherly manner. sig av byttet, som de delte på broderlig vis. Men jeg søkte alltid å redde de blå But I always sought to rescue the blue wing feathers of the jays for hat decora- vingefjærene på nøtteskrikene til hattepynt til mine søstre og deres venninner. tions for my sisters and their girlfriends. Foruten jakten, livet i heiene og våre venner, dyrene, var det badningen og Besides hunting, our life in the hills, and our friends and animals, there was klatringen ombord i alle skutene som kom innom eller lå i oplag, som optok oss bathing and climbing aboard all the sailing ships that arrived into port or which gutter der nede i sørlandsbyen. had been laid up; this is what occupied us boys there in the town down south. Som ganske liten hadde jeg en sann redsel for badning. Dette skrev sig an- When I was small, I had a real fear of swimming. This probably came from tagelig fra at min far tok mig med til et badehus hvor solen nesten aldri slapp til, the fact that my father took me along to the swimming baths where it was cold og hvor der var kaldt og klamt å klæ av sig. Når dette var gjort, var det å henge and clammy to undress and where the sun nearly ever shone. Undressed, it was sig på ryggen til far som kastet sig ut. Og da gjaldt det å klamre sig ordenltig just to grab on to father’s back as he dived in. And then it was necessary to cling fast hvis jeg ikke vilde risikere å gå til bunns, for der var brådyp rundt omkring. on really tight if I did not want to risk going to the bottom, as it dropped off sud- denly. Get the book! • Wilse Vol 1 • $11.95 + $4.95 shipping • www.astrimyastri.com 22 • January 27, 2017 Arts & Entertainment theNorwegianamerican Peer Gynt at Gålå mixes fantasy with reality High in the Norwegian mountains is a legendary theatrical experience worth the journey

Emily C. Skaftun The Norwegian American

The curtain cannot rise because there is no curtain, no proscenium arch, nothing but grass and a beach flanked by two shaggy hillocks between us and Lake Gålåvatnet. We are gathered here in the Norwegian wilds outside Vinstra to go on a journey with a character called Peer Gynt.

On and off the page Peer’s journey begins just down the hill. He’s a farmboy with a bad reputation and a penchant for tall tales. The well-known opening line of the play is from his mother, Åse, who yells, “Peer, du lyver!” (“you’re lying”). He proceeds to spin a wild tale about riding a reindeer, which riffs on Norwegian folktales, and like a folktale cannot possibly be believed. So it figures that his travels would run Photos: (above) Bård Gundersen / courtesy of him afoul of powerful trolls and powerful Peer Gynt Festival, (right) Emily C. Skaftun forces that would dog him to his dying day. Above: The natural setting is as much a part of The character on Ibsen’s written page the play as the actors and musicians. Characters enter and leave on boats and wade into the water, is an enigma. He is a liar, and he is a loser. they chop trees apart, and of course they do it all A big-talking charlatan whose answer to the no matter the weather. trouble he gets himself into is to run away. Right: The version of the production that I saw Yet he is also a lucky man, and one who used costumes to great effect. The trolls had a might be a sympathetic or even tragic figure. lot of greenery about them, as one might expect, I found I couldn’t get a grip on the guy on the but they were also covered in trash, making them page, so I was eager to see what version of somewhat more urban—not to mention modern— the man would step onto the stage. creatures than what Ibsen probably had in mind. Mads Ousdal, in his last year as Peer, Later in the play, we were visited with mental pa- tients armed with selfie sticks, and even dancing didn’t step so much as gallivant, bursting onto soldiers in camo fatigues. the grassy lakefront and even onto a bench- like barrier between the audience and the stage with gymnastic moves and pelvic gyrations, as the band played eerie strings. Throughout the show Peer veered from excitement to a few tender moments to the character’s domi­ nant emotion, spittle-flecking rage. guage of the play is complex and rhymes local resident put it. In 1989 the play was let alone running and jumping about on rain- to the beat of a different drummer, and it is first performed on the shore of Gålåvatnet. slick surfaces or jumping into lakes half na­ No Norwegian? No problem clearly more than a mouthful at times. With so many historical events to mark, ked. Yes, I was told, Mads had injured him­ Of course, much of the blame for the But fear not, English speakers. The fes­ the festival can find a reason to make every self a couple of times. Never too severely. spittle lies with Henrik Ibsen, who wrote tival provides brief introductions to the play year special, but they are determined to mark Peer Gynt 150 years ago this year. The lan­ in English and German, and also offers an the play’s 150th birthday with the respect the A Peer for the future audio guide in those languages. Rather than occasion deserves. 2017 is another year of changes. Direc­ step on Ibsen’s language with a word-for- tor Sigrid Strøm Reibo’s vision for the new word translation, the guide simply gives in­ The many incarnations of Peer production is to emphasize the long journey tros at the beginning of each scene. A word For the first 25 years of the festival, Peer undertakes. The title role will be split of advice though: one does have to keep the the play’s production remained largely un­ for the first time at Gålå, with father and son device engaged. I confess I took it off at one changed. When attendance started to drop actors Jakob and Nils Ole Oftebro sharing point and became hopelessly unsynced from off in the early teens, they realized it was the part. Though both are well-known actors the audio summaries. Thank goodness I’d time for a change. There was nothing wrong in Norway, this will also mark the first time read the script! with the original production, all those who’d the two have been in a play together. seen it assured me. But like The Phantom We will meet 25-year-old Peer in the A range of dates to celebrate of the Opera, there eventually comes a time 1960s and follow him until the present day. Norway’s most famous playwright was when everyone who was going to attend has. Details of the new production are of course inspired, during his time in the Gudbrands­ What to do then? as yet unknown, but we have also been dal valley, by the tales of the real Per Gynt, The festival brought in a new Artistic promised a new approach to both the music who’d lived across the way from him some Director, Erik Ulfsby, to remake the pro­ and the musicians and “new tableaus and hundred years earlier. He was a liar too, but duction. “Peer Gynt is like a big house with pictures that audience will not expect.” in a more gentle way—a spinner of tall tales many doors,” he said. “I’ll do other doors Crazy as it sounds, I am seriously con­ who entertained his neighbors in a pre-tele­ than those done earlier.” The set was rebuilt, sidering making another trip back to Lake vision world so thoroughly that his legend and the audience moved closer to the water. Gålåvatnet to see how the interpretation of persisted for generations. The music, partially from Grieg’s score, was this timeless classic changes from year to The Peer Gynt Festival was first cel­ modernized to de-romanticize Peer Gynt. year. ebrated in Vinstra in 1928, the 100th year This is the play I saw. If Ulfsby’s goal since Ibsen’s birth. The second festival was was to make Peer’s journey more real, then Notes on actually being there held four years later in 1932, 200 years af­ he succeeded with flying colors. The reality The experience of Peer Gynt at Gålå is ter the birth of the historical Per Gynt. After of the play was one of my main takeaways. like if Broadway theatre and camping had a a long pause, the festival started back up in I’ve done a little work behind the scenes of baby. High-quality performances in a rus­ Photo: Emily C. Skaftun 1976, 100 years after the play’s initial pre­ plays in the U.S. and here safety is always tic—yet hyggelig—setting. Mads Ousdal as Peer Gynt entered in an athletic, mier in Christiania (Oslo). In the early days, a primary concern. So I was stunned to see My main words of advice are these: swaggery burst of personality that brought the ac- the festival was mostly just a party, an occa­ actors doing things like waterskiing or hack­ tion very much to the audience’s lap. sion for “moonshine and harmonica,” as one ing all the branches off a tree with an axe, See > peer gynt, page 23 theNorwegianamerican Arts & Entertainment January 27, 2017 • 23

Book review: < peer gynt From page 22 Vesaas’s The Birds dress warmly. Wear all your layers. Yes, But wait, there’s more! it’s August. No, it probably won’t be warm. The play runs for two weekends, with Yes, it might rain, and no they won’t stop the at least seven performances (and quite prob­ show. For us it started to rain in Act I, and ably more added as these sell out). But you Christine Foster Meloni there was a mighty rustle as we in the audi­ don’t want to miss the one-time-only “moun­ Washington, D.C. ence all donned our ponchos. I had as much tain concert” on the final Sunday. High atop clothing on as I physically could, including another mountain you can nestle into the Tarjei Vesaas is considered one of the a lot of borrowed items. If you won’t have heather and relax with the view and incred­ greatest Norwegian writers of the 20th cen­ anyone to borrow from, pack well. ible choral and instrumental music. For me tury. He was born in 1897 in Vinje, Tele­ Also, make a night of it! The perfor­ this was a magical day—the only really mark, and grew up on his family farm there. mance itself is one thing, but there’s also din­ sunny and almost warm day of my week in He spent considerable time alone in nature as ner to be had before the show, in big heated Norway. Your mileage may vary, of course. a boy, and his closeness to the natural world tents strewn with cozy sheepskins. There are This event cannot sell out, as I am as­ is evident in his works, including The Birds picnic benches outside if the weather per­ sured that the mountain can handle it. Bring (1957). In all of his works, he showed great mits. Bringing in outside food or beverage a picnic blanket and your matpakke or buy psychological insight. He wrote both poetry did not seem to be counter indicated, so I snacks and beverages from the many stands and novels from 1923 until his death in 1970. recommend it. At the intermission, get some that pop up along the way, or have lunch at He was married to the writer Halldis Moren coffee and a pastry. At the end of the night, the charming Hotel Rondablikk and enjoy a Vesaas. if you’re up for it, hit up “Varm mat og et­ hike around the area. Vesaas received several prestigious lit­ terprat,” a discussion with people involved erary awards including the Venice Prize for in the play that also comes with soup, back For more info on visiting the Peer Gynt Fes- The Winds in 1953 and the Nordic Council’s of thunder and lightning), he usually finds in the tents. tival or to buy tickets, visit peergynt.no. Literature Prize for his novel The Ice Palace great solace in it. He feels especially close in 1963. He was nominated for the Nobel to birds and is convinced that he can com­ Prize in Literature in 1960. municate with them. The protagonist of his hauntingly beau­ He is thrilled when a woodcock begins tiful novel The Birds is Mattis, a man in his flying over their house at night. He knows it 30s who is known as Simple Simon to the is an omen that things will now be different. people in his town. He has serious problems When he notices it the first night, he rushes dealing with others in social contexts and in to awaken Hege and insists that she come with applying himself in work situations. He out to see the bird—at once. She refuses, not is completely dependent on his older sister giving much weight to this new event. He Hege, who assumed responsibility for his is nonplussed. How can she not understand care after the death of their parents. what it means? Hege has not had an easy life as her This woodcock gives Mattis great joy. In brother’s caretaker. To support the two of his mind they develop a relationship. When them, she spends most of her waking hours he finds its scratches in the dirt every morn­ Photo courtesy of Peer Gynt Festival knitting sweaters. She rarely leaves the house ing, he assumes that they are the bird’s mes­ The artistic team for 2017: Mask & Costume Designer Helena Andersson, Director Sigrid Strøm Reibo, and has virtually no social life. She has just sages to him, so he takes a stick and writes Composer & Musical Director Simon Revholt, and Scene & Costume Designer Gjermund Andresen. turned 40 and her hair has begun to turn gray. back. They use the same language! But their She realizes that she is growing old without relationship comes to an abrupt and tragic really having lived. She tries to be kind to end when he innocently mentions the bird to Mattis, but he is a cause of great frustration a young hunter who then kills it. Kom inn for en omvisning og lunsj for her. His life takes a serious turn for the worse Mattis lives in another world. His en­ shortly thereafter. He begins a ferry service counters with other people quite frequently on the nearby lake. He is able to attract, end in disaster. He knows that he is different however, only one passenger, a lumberjack and tries very hard to understand others and whom he ferries from the far shore and in­ to act as is expected. vites to come home with him. Unfortunately One day, for example, he is standing on for Mattis, Hege and Jørgen fall in love. He the road waiting for someone to pass by so he feels that his world is falling apart. He will can ask a very important question. When he be left alone and won’t be able to survive on sees a man approaching, he rushes up to him his own. and asks, “Well, what have you been doing The novel rushes to a conclusion, but today?” the ending appears to be ambiguous. What The man is tired and the question ir­ really happens in the end? One must dig into ritates him. He immediately counters with Mattis’s mind to try to understand what hap­ “What have you been doing?” This abrupt pens and why. question frightens Mattis and he quickly tells One intriguing aspect of this novel is the man that he asked that question only “be­ that Vasaas writes it in the third person, not cause it is the sort of thing people do.” His from the point of view of Mattis. One feels, real question is another, one that he feels is however, that it is Mattis who is speaking very important. throughout. The advantage of this point of His sister tries to encourage him to look view is that the reader sometimes sees what for work although she and Mattis both know Mattis himself does not. that he is rarely offered a job and, if he is, Vasaas creates his protagonist with great it doesn’t usually end well. To his surprise understanding and sensitivity. The prose is a farmer one morning offers him work in simple in language but profound in the in­ his turnip field, pulling up weeds. But soon sights into this man who tries hard to make after initiating the work, his mind begins to sense of his universe with limited success. wander. He gets confused and starts pulling .. et flott sted å bo! up turnips instead of weeds. He becomes an­ gry at his own ineptness and takes it out on Christine Foster Meloni is the vegetables. “The precious turnips infuri­ professor emerita at The Áegis of Shoreline ated him. They lay there puny and threadlike George Washington Uni- when he’d pulled up the things they were versity. She has degrees 14900 1st Avenue NE resting against.” in Italian literature, lin- Shoreline, WA 98152 Mattis, therefore, tries to avoid the stress guistics, and international 206-367-6700 of social interactions and the challenge of education. She was born in AegisofShoreline.com work. He prefers being on his own, feeling Minneapolis and currently more at home in nature than in society. Al­ lives in Washington, D.C. She values her Nor- though he fears nature at times (he is terrified wegian heritage. 24 • January 27, 2017 Sports theNorwegianamerican Ødegaard loaned to Heerenveen Real Madrid has sent the Norwegian midfielder on an 18-month loan to the Dutch club

Photos: Bjorn S. Delebekk / VG Martin Ødegaard when he was signed by Real Madrid (left) and practicing with the club in late 2015 (above). Molly Jones The Norwegian American

It’s been two years since Norway’s Mar­ “I’ve been thinking for awhile that it “Martin is an excellent player, and the team has been home to Magnus Wolff tin Ødegaard signed with Real Madrid as a should happen now,” said Ødegaard to TV2 Heerenveen is a club where talents can pros­ Eikrem, Tarik Elyounoussi, and Christian promising 16-year-old. While the attacking Sporten. “I have focused on what I should per. We are extremely delighted to have him Grindheim, as well as coach Trond Sollied. midfielder went on to make history on May do, and this came up recently. I had good here, and we’ll do everything to develop his “I think the mentality of this part of 23, 2015, as the youngest player to represent conversations with the club and visited them talent even more,” said Heerenveen’s Tech­ Holland and Norway are quite similar. They the Spanish club, he has primarily played after my last match. It went well and I think nical Director Luuc Eisenta to TV2 Sporten. seem to fit in pretty well,” said Eisenta of the for the reserve team, Real Madrid Castilla. this will be good for me.” “It is a special day. We’ve had excellent Norwegian players. In fact, in his two years in Spain, he made With Heerenveen, the Norwegian is ex­ players here before in the club, but when a This season, 18-year-old Dennis John­ only one more appearance for Real Madrid pected to have more chances to play elite- talent like this joins the club, of course that sen is competing for the youth team, while during his first ever start for the elite club on level soccer than if he had stayed with Real feels special. It’s a talent that is adding qual­ 20-year-old Morten Thorsby will be team­ November 30, 2016. Madrid or gone to another league in Europe. ity to the league here, that’s for sure.” mates with Ødegaard on the A-team. Real Madrid has given him the opportu­ “I see this as a good opportunity to play In fact, the Dutch press has started re­ “It is a club that is very good at taking nity to train with some of the best footballers first-team football. I’m looking forward to ferring to the Norwegian as “wonderboy.” care of young players. I’ve also had that ex­ in the world; however, he has lacked the it,” he said to NRK. “Dutch football seems Ødegaard is not quite so sure about his new perience. I’ve gotten lots of confidence and first-team starting opportunities he feels are like a very good place for me.” nickname though. “I don’t see myself as a feel I’m developing well. I’m incredibly necessary to develop his skills and his career. Heerenveen is currently ranked fourth wonderboy. I look at myself as a normal guy, happy,” said Thorsby to NRK, adding that he Therefore, it was no surprise when it in the Eredivisie, the elite soccer league in and I don’t really pay attention to what other expects Ødegaard to thrive on the team. was announced on January 10 that Real Ma­ the Netherlands. While the club currently has people say of me,” he said. If everything goes as planned, these 18 drid was sending Ødegaard on an 18-month many young talents, Ødegaard will still be Ødegaard will be joining the ranks of months with the Dutch will give the young loan to Dutch club Heerenveen, a team that their youngest player, and most likely their several Norwegian footballers who have footballer the playing time and development is known for developing young talents. highest-profile player as well. played for the Eredivisie side. Previously, he needs to take the next step in his career.

Funeral Home SOlie and Crematory Sports News & Notes Honoring • Caring • Serving Cross-country Skiing: Gjerdalen second Alpine Skiing: Kilde misses podium 3301 Colby Ave. Everett, WA 98201 (425) 252-5159 Russian Ilia Chernousov (30) won the 50-ki­ Aleksander Aamodt Kilde was just two hun­ lometer La Diagonela race in Switzerland dredths of a second away from the podium on Jan. 21. He outraced Tord Alse Gjerdalen when Austrian Matthias Mayer won the su­ (33) when the runners crossed the finish line per-G in Kitzbuehel on Jan. 20. Kjetil Jans­ Norwegian Lutheran Memorial Church after more than two hours on the track. Øy­ rud was in ninth place after a crucial mistake stein Pettersen finished third. ruined his chances of winning. Den Norske Lutherske Minnekirke (NRK) The Norwegian Lutheran Memorial Church offers the best venue in Chicago for Norwegians (NRK) and Scandinavians to gather and celebrate Norwegian traditions. Along with Pastor David Schoenknecht, we welcome you to our warm and friendly family of members. Bible Study starts Ski Jumping: Lundby third in Japan Football: Hegerbergs sink England at 9:30am followed by worship service at 11am. Please visit us soon! Maren Lundby was beaten by Japanese ski Norway won 1-0 against England when the jumpers Yuki Ito and Sara Takanashi in Zao. teams played a private game at La Manga on February 2017 The ski jumper rose from a disappointing Jan. 22. Ada Stolsmo Hegerberg scored the sixth place on Jan. 20. She was in second only goal with a header after a great free kick Jan. 29 Congregational Meeting/ place after the first round on Jan. 21 but from her sister, Andrine Stolsmo Hegerberg. Potluck lunch following service didn’t manage to match the two home com­ (NRK) Children’s choir practice, 4pm petitors in the final round. (NRK) Football: Norwegian to Israeli football Feb. 5 Norwegian/English service/ Fitim Azemi is ready for the Israeli club Holy Communion Alpine Skiing: Svindal out for season Maccabi Haifa. The 24-year-old leaves Feb. 12 Norwegian/English service Aksel Lund Svindal has been forced to quit Bodø/Glimt and has signed a contract that this season due to knee problems. On Jan. 17, extends to 2019. At Maccabi Haifa he will Feb. 19 English service/Holy Communion the Norwegian Ski Federation announced play under former Manchester United as­ Feb. 26 “Fantastisk 4th” Family Worship/ that the ski veteran has gone through an op­ sistant Rene Meulensteen and Norwegian sports executive Tor-Kristian Karlsen. Sunday School eration on his right knee and will miss the rest of the ongoing season. (NRK) 2614 North Kedzie Avenue, Chicago, IL 60647 • (773) 252-7335 • www.minnekirken-chicago.org (NRK) theNorwegianamerican Sports January 27, 2017 • 25 Finally in first: < impressions From page 21

really doing their best and educating people Immigrants here are skyping with their Heidi Weng wins 11th from Africa and Asia as if they were their families back home, and I can only imagine own kids. I can express nothing less than how touching that is for them! We are all admiration for that Norwegian spirit of sa­ united, because no matter how many coun­ edition of Tour de Ski maritanism that reaches out to others. tries there are, we all have one planet. Even I am emotionally connected to stories if we find some new place to live, we will about refugees because of my deep aware­ be in the same universe, and this logic does ness of the Balkan War (have you heard not break even if we eventually travel with about Srebrenica?), but I probably would the speed of light to places beyond our un­ not have been writing about this if the derstanding. That is why I feel connected to most amazing thing had not happened the you, precious reader, to people in the south, other day. I was taking a walk and it was a to children in Africa, and that is why more beautiful sunny day when my path crossed and more people are feeling the same. with two women of Bosnian and Serbian I will be returning to Slovenia soon and nationality. They were speaking our old, I am already looking forward to being home now technically non-existent (though still again, but I will miss Norway for sure. The widely used) Serbo-Croatian language. To great society here lived up to its reputa­ say the least I was surprised, because even tion because now I know from experience though I knew that a lot of people from why Norway is topping almost every world Bosnia had come to the North during the ranking there is and is the role-model coun­ war, I never imagined that I would meet try for others. The main question is how has some of them on the streets of Levanger. Norway achieved this? Even though it has How likely is that to happen? little scientific value, I am proposing a sim­ We started talking and talking and of ple answer. The great Slovenian thinker and course it was inevitable to say a few words author Boris Pahor who lived through both about the early 90s and their arrival to the world wars and survived four concentration North. It was all very similar to stories of camps claims that: “No economy and no people seeking asylum in Norway today. party, left or right, can help, the only true They explained how the system was for im­ thing is love.” I agree with him completely! migrants back then, and I understood their words through my working with refugees Jure Kacafura has a bachelor’s degree in now. In a way, I am “retracing” the steps of social sciences and will soon complete a Photo: Bjorn S. Delebekk / VG my brothers and sisters from ex-Yugoslavia. master’s in andragogy. He is interested in Heidi Weng is overcome with joy to be in first place at the Tour de Ski. Instant communication enables us society both on the micro and macro level. to talk with ease all the time, even if my He also likes to experience nature, where girlfriend is on the other side of Europe. he finds inner peace and gets ideas for life. Jo Christian Weldingh Oslo, Norway Community Connections Heidi Weng destroyed the competition usually behind Therese Johaug and Marit up Alpe Cermis, the steep hill that finishes Bjørgen, neither of whom participated this each year’s Tour de Ski, and won her first year. Before this season she was the skier Happy birthday, title. “I didn’t think this would happen when with the most podium finishes in the world the tour started. It has been exhausting, and cup without ever winning a race. She has no engagement, birth, I’m glad it’s over. I have to go home and individual gold medals in the Olympics or rest,” Weng said after securing her victory. the World Championship, but she has three family reunion, etc! Weng was the big favorite to win overall bronze medals. Before this win, she had this year, but she has not performed up to her three third-place finishes overall in Tour de usual standards. And after several mediocre Ski. Weng admitted that after almost los­ Your name and performances in the last couple of stages, ing a test run against her older sister during she was trailing Swedish Stina Nilsson by 20 her Christmas holidays, she considered not message here! seconds before the 9 km pursuit on Jan. 8. participating in this year’s tour. “If she had Nilsson had an extraordinary tour with five beaten me, I would have stayed home. And stage wins, but still Weng was the favorite if my mom had beaten me, I would have re­ For more information, call to win since she was considered stronger up tired,” she laughed. us at (206) 784-4617 or email Alpe Cermis. Weng is the third Norwegian woman to [email protected]. Two kilometers into the race, Nilsson’s ever win Tour de Ski. Only Therese Johaug lead had decreased to 15 seconds, and after and Marit Bjørgen have done it before. four kilometers the lead was down to nine Former three-time champion Martin seconds. When Nilsson reached the dreaded Johnsrud Sundby came in second overall in Alpe Cermis, Weng had caught up and im­ what, from a Norwegian perspective, can mediately took the lead. The Swede, who only be described as a disappointing men’s usually performs best on the shorter, flatter tour. Several forfeits and bad performances have a story to tell? distances, didn’t stand a chance. One kilo­ contributed to the first non-Norwegian win­ meter into the hill, Weng was leading with ner in three years, Sergej Ustjugov from NAW is now a market for fiction! almost a minute. And at the finish line, the Russia. NAW is now accepting fiction • up to 1,500 words lead had increased to almost two minutes. The Tour de Ski is a cross-country ski­ At just over 33 minutes, Weng had the best ing event held annually since the 2006-2007 of up to 1,500 words (1,000 or • English-language stage time. season in Central Europe, modeled on the fewer preferred) of any genre • Norway-themed or mystery Krista Parmakoski from Finland, who Tour de France of cycling. Each Tour de Ski that have something to do with • $50 payment is considered one of the stronger climb­ has consisted of six to nine stages, held dur­ Norway, or crime/mystery stories • [email protected] ers, also overtook Nilsson and knocked her ing late December and early January in the down to third place. Norwegian Ingvild Øst­ Czech Republic, Germany, Italy, and Swit­ even if they have nothing to do berg came in fourth. Østberg, who has been zerland. With four overall wins, Justyna with Norway (but bonus haunted by bad luck during this year’s tour, Kowalczyk from Poland holds the record for points if they do). We tried to stay positive in the press zone. “It’s most overall wins. pay a flat rate of $50 for frustrating to be so close to the podium, but this is the best experience I have ever had up Jo Christian Weldingh grew up in Lilleham- stories, on publication. Alpe Cermis. That feels good,” she told the mer, Norway, but is currently living in Oslo. Submit your best (English- Norwegian press. He has a BA in Archaeology from The Univer- language) stories to sity of Oslo and a BA in Business Administra- Heidi Weng has been one of world’s [email protected]! best cross-country skiers for many years, but tion from BI Norwegian Business School. she has made a habit of coming in third— 26 • January 27, 2017 Norsk Språk theNorwegianamerican

< vaksiner Fra side 2 « A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. levde med ebolautbruddet i 2014. » – Lao Tzu Statsminister Erna Solberg og Tysk­ lands forbundskansler Angela Merkel utvid­ er dermed sitt felles prosjekt fra 2015, som hadde ebola-forebygging som mål. Pondus by Frode Øverli Da sendte de felles brev til FN-sjefen, for å få fortgang i granskingen av hva som gikk galt under ebolaepidemien i flere afri­ kanske land i 2014 og 2015, som tok over 9000 liv. — En prosent av vårt bruttonasjonal­ produkt brukes på bistand og slikt fore­ byggende helsearbeid vil kunne hjelpe svært mange i fattige land, fordi de oftest rammest hardest. Men når det gjelder epidemier, så er det også noe som kan ramme Norge. Jeg kan derfor godt forsvare dette prosjektet, sier Solberg til VG.

< Kronprinsesse Imagine, They were looking ...lots of strange weather Fra side 2 Harold and Yes, hope forward to spending these days! There are reports Selma are on they’re enjoying some time in the warmth! of sleet and snow showers the Canary themselves! in the Canary Islands, and it’s journalister som fast sto utenfor huset der Islands now! No kidding! They deserve it! supposed to stay cold! vi bodde. NRK Dagsrevyen fulgte oss når vi lekte i Frognerparken om ettermiddagen. Marius var 3 år. Ikke engang Se og Hør ville Lunch by Børge Lund finne på å gjøre det mot et barn i dag. Heldig­ vis. Men det at Marius har blitt 20 gjør ikke Don’t mean to hit your at han er fritt vilt igjen.» nuts with — ngh! — Oppfordringen nå til norske medier ly­ my outstretched foot! der slik: «Marius ønsker ikke å leve et liv i offentligheten.­ Min forpliktelse overfor ham som mor er å ta det ansvaret som ble gitt meg på Aker sykehus for 20 år siden alvorlig. Derfor velger jeg nå å be deler av norsk me­ dia la ham få lov til å slippe et fokus han ikke ønsker, når han nå blant annet av den grunn velger å reise til utlandet for å studere.» Don’t mean to Biografien over Marius Borg Høiby pull down my fjernes fra Slottets hjemmeside. Dermed pants — zip! — Don’t give a and piss on your Don’t mean to Don’t mean Don’t mean to nag, but markeres det tydeligere at han ikke er en warpspeed shit Mac, Nico... Don’t mean to interrupt you, to offend you, have you looked at my what you say! offentlig­ person på linje med resten av brag, Nico, but I... Kjell, but... horse face, but... application for leave? Kongefamilien. — Det at han har stått der, er av en­ kelte medier brukt som et argument for at Hjalmar by Nils Axle Kanten de kan skrive nærmest hva som helst om en ung mann som ikke ønsker medieomtale av Finished now... noe slag, hverken positiv eller negativ, sier Slottets kommunikasjonssjef, Marianne Ha­ gen. Hun sier også at hverken kronprinsessen eller Marius Borg Høiby ønsker å kommen­ tere brevet.

< statsborgerskap Fra side 2 direktør i UDI, sier til VG at etaten ikke har fått noen instruks av Listhaug om å ettergå No! Now you come Not completely saker hvor asylsøkere kan ha kommet inn på over here and get finished... falske premisser. dressed! Stop it! — Vi har ikke fått noen instruks om sa­ ker med falsk ID. Det ligger i loven allerede. Den instruksen som er kommet, omhandler Han Ola og Han Per by Peter J. Rosendahl, with new translations by John Erik Stacy de som kommer fra krigsområder og ikke har fått permanent opphold i Norge. Disse får midlertidig opphold i tre år, men hvis det blir roligere eller fred i hjemland kan de re­ turneres, sier Grimsmo til VG. 14. januar fortalte Venstre-leder Trine Skei Grande til VG at Mahad-saken er den direkte årsaken til at Venstre, sammen med SV og Ap, har lagt frem et forslag i Storting­ et om at tilbakekalling av statsborgerskap kun kan skje etter behandling i domstolen. I dag kan UDI tilbakekalle statsborger­ skap, men Grimsmo opplyser at de fleste be­ Gee whiz, did you I got this from Mari for nytter muligheten til å klage til Utlendings­ get a new hat, Ola! my birthday present. It is genuine sealskin. nemda (UNE) og hvis man ikke får medhold her, kan saken tas til retten. No this beats all. theNorwegianamerican Norsk Språk January 27, 2017 • 27

Norwegian Language Corner NORWEGIAN FOLK TALES, FAIRY TALES and TROLLS NORWEGIAn 101 Language practice with Heidi Håvan Grosch Volume 2 Airline Travel (Reising med fly) With 21 classic folk tales, fairy tales, and trolls from Norway in Norwegian and English, “Tuss og Troll” is now serialized in the Norwegian American Weekly’s Norwegian Language Corner. The stories are from the collections of Peter Christen Asbjørnsen and Jørgen Moe, and retold by Øyvind Dybvad, Gard Espeland, Velle Espeland, To get to Norway (for å komme til Norge) in 2017, it is most Johannes Farestveit, and Nana Rise-Lynum. Translated by Alexander Knud Huntrods and Odd-Steinar Dybvad Raneng. Illustrated by Solveig Muren Sanden, Jens R. Nilssen, and Ralph A. Styker. “Tuss og Troll” was edited, likely (er det stor sjanse) you will go by plane (du skal reise med designed, and published by Deb Nelson Gourley of Astri My Astri publishing. Copyright © Norsk Barneblad. fly). It used to be (før var det), in the olden days (gamle dager), that you would receive an airline ticket (flybillett) directly from your travel agent (reisebyrå). Your only responsibility (din en- este oppgave) was to show up (var å dukke opp) at the airport (flyplassen) where you would deliver your ticket to a gate agent who would process everything for you (som ville behandle alt for deg). However, things are a bit different today (ting er litt an- nerledes i dag). We are able to check in ahead of time (å sjekke inn på forhånd), print out (å skrive ut) our own boarding passes and luggage tags (boardingkort og bagasjelapper), and pick our own seats (å bestemme egne seter). On smaller planes and shorter routes (på mindre fly og kortere ruter), we even have to pay extra (betale ekstra) for food (mat), and cash is not accepted (kontanter er ikke akseptert). Fortunately (heldigvis), coffee and tea (kaffe og te) are still provided. Some things remain the same (noen ting forblir de samme). Kolbrennaren The Wood-collier The oxygen masks (oksygenmasker) that drop down from a panel del 2 av 6 part 2 of 6 above your head (et panel over hodet) are still yellow (gul), life vests (redningsvester) can still be found in a pocket under your I kongsgarden vart alle dei framande At the palace, all the strangers were in- seat (under setet), and people in exit rows still get verbal in­ bedne inn til kongen, og kolbrennaren vited in to the king and the wood-collier fol- structions (muntlige instruksjoner) on what to do in case of an følgde med, han og. Så sa kongen at eink- lowed them as well. Well the king said that emergency (en nødssituasjon). Now they also have to include van hadde stole den dyraste fingerringen someone had stolen his most expensive hans, difor hadde han bede saman alle dei ring, therefore he had gathered together all electronic cigarettes in their non-smoking regulations (bestem- prestlærde i landet, om nokon av dei kunne the knowledgeable priests in the land, to melser om røykeforbud). finna ringen. see if anyone could find the ring. It is interesting to think about (det er interessant å tenke på) — Den som kunne seia kven tjuven var, “The one who can say who the thief how airline travel might change (kan endre seg) in the future (i skulle få god løn for det, sa kongen. Han is will be well paid for it,” said the king. He fremtiden). Will flight attendants (flyvertinnene) be robots? Will gjekk frå den eine til den andre og spurde went from one to the other and asked them we literally take a seat when we check in (når vi sjekker inn) and dei alle saman, og då han kom til kolbren- all, and when he came to the wood-collier, hover it into the plane (inn i flyet)? In the Star Trek series, “beam naren, så sa han: — Kven er du? he said: “Who are you?” — Eg er den vise prest og den sanne “I am the wise priest and the true me up Scotty” was an iconic phrase (et ikonisk uttrykk), and in profet, svara kolbrennaren. prophet,” answered the wood-collier. (pulver) the Harry Potter books and films floo powder allowed — Så kan du vel seia meg kven som har “So, you should be able to tell me who wizards (trollmenn) to travel through fireplaces(å reise gjennom teke ringen min, då? sa kongen. took my ring, then, said the king. peiser) from one place to another (fra et sted til et annet). These — Ja, det er ikkje reint ut av von og vit “Well, it’s not absolutely impossible modes of travel continue to be works of fiction(skjønnlitteratur) , at det som har hendt i mørkret kan syna seg that what has happened in the darkness but who knows (hvem vet) how your grandchildren (barnebarn) i ljoset, sa kolbrennaren. — Men skal tjuven can be seen in the light of day,” said the will travel to Norway when they are your age (når de er på din fram, må eg ha god tid og mykje papir å re- wood-collier. “But if the thief is to be seen, alder)? As my grandmother (bestemor) Viola used to say, “only kna og skriva på. I need a lot of time and a lot of paper to Ja, han fekk eit kammers for seg sjølv calculate and write on.” time will tell” (bare tiden vil vise)! i kongsgarden, og så mykje papir han ville. He was given a chamber for himself Og dei skjøna snart at han måtte kunna in the palace, and as much paper as he meir enn fadervår, for han skreiv opp så wanted. And they soon realized that he had mykje papir at det låg der i digre dungar to know more than just the Lord’s Prayer, og haugar, endå ingen skjøna krokane og because he wrote on so much paper that it kråketærne hans. lay in big heaps and piles, and nobody could Men tida leid, og han fekk ikkje greie understand his scribbles and squiggles. på nokon tjuv. Til sist sa kongen at hadde But time passed by, and he did not han ikkje funne tjuven om tre dagar, så get any information on any thief. At last skulle han missa livet. — Den som skal rå, the king said that if he had not found the får ikkje vera for brå, sa kolbrennaren. Men thief in three days, he would lose his life. kongen stod på sitt, han, og ville ikkje venta “The one who wants advice shall not be in lenger. a rush,” said the wood-collier. But the king No var det tre av tenarane til kongen stood by what he had said, and would not som varta han opp kvar sin dag, og desse wait any longer. tre hadde vore saman om å stela ringen. Då Now, there were three of the king’s den eine tenaren kom inn og tok av bordet servants who attended to the wood-collier etter kveldsmaten, drog kolbrennaren ein every day, and these three had conspired djup sukk og såg på han og sa: — Det var together to steal the ring. When one of the den fyrste! servants came in to clear the table from the evening meal, the wood-collier drew a deep sigh and looked at him and said: “This is the first one!”

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Brekke’s 2017 Featured Tours STEP OFF THE BEATEN PATH... Experience the charm of Norway, Denmark and Sweden on Brekke’s 2017 Scandinavian escorted tours. Learn more about these culturally-rich nations and how they have influenced the world for generations.

NORWAY’S FAMILY ADVENTURE FJORDS & FARMS of NORWAY CAPTIVATING SCANDINAVIA

June 30 - July 9 July 18 - 27 July 22 - August 4 Introduce your Family to Norway Rural life in majestic surroundings Three Unforgettable Countries Join a Norwegian couple and their three children as Discover how the beautiful landscapes of Norway Experience the majestic fjords of Norway, royal they introduce you and your family to shaped past and present life in Copenhagen, Sweden’s Kingdom of their home country! Ideal for those rural Norway on this 10-day tour Crystal and charming Stockholm wishing to share Norway with from Bergen to Oslo. Learn on this 14-day tour. Enjoy an their children or grandchildren, more about past hardships overnight cruise between Oslo this tour features family-friendly and modern advancements in and Copenhagen, a ride on the activities such as a fjord cruise farming with visits to a fruit farm, famous Flåm Railway, a tour to Undredal for a chance to learn fish farm and mountain farm. Tour of Frederiksborg Castle and a more about traditional farming in the a grain farm and be welcomed into the sightseeing cruise in Gothenburg as mountains; a ride on the famous Flåm Railway; and family home for a traditional Norwegian dinner on you learn about the similarities and differences in a rafting adventure in Voss. this exciting new itinerary for 2017! these three amazing countries. For additional tour itineraries or more information, please contact Brekke Tours: 1-800-437-5302 [email protected] www.BrekkeTours.com