THE TOP 100 BEAUTY’S ULTIMATE POWER LIST THE NEWS ON NATURALS GEARING UP FOR A MAKE-OR-BREAK SCENT SEASON COOL AND THE GANG POPPY DELEVINGNE AND SUMMER’S HOTTEST SCENEMAKERSWWD BEAUTY BIZ 1 Have you seen Sally? ®

NEW! A technology breakthrough for unbelievably vibrant color and shine! Lacquer Shine™ Lip Color Real Pearl creates instant drama and deep shine Ginseng & Black Tea smooth and revitalize lips Lacquer Shine™ Nail Color Vibrant Color, Extraordinary Shine Patented formula with real silk fortifies and protects nails Last seen living the drama... ©2008 Del Laboratories, Inc. Nicole Muirbrook, Honolulu, Hawaii Beauty that Works Model is wearing Poppy lip color and Dazzling nail www.haveuseenSALLY.com WWDBEAUTYBIZ CONTENTS

52 58 62 THIS MONTH: THE BEAUTY TOP 100, POPPY DELEVINGNE AND SUMMER’S HOTTEST SCENEMAKERS AND GEARING UP FOR THE BIGGEST FALL FRAGRANCE SEASON EVER.

9 PEOPLE, PLACES, & 16 A CLOSER LOOK: 58 RAISING THE STAKES Female-targeted video games are packing a well- NATURAL PRODUCTS This fall’s new fragrance launches are mega, with placed punch for beauty marketers, curious noses ’Tis the green season, where brands old and new are huge sales goals and promotional budgets to match. find satisfaction on walking fragrance tours of Paris turning over a natural (and organic) leaf with their But will all the hoopla be enough to energize a and London and a new New York salon that deftly upcoming launches. sagging category and reignite retailers’ affection for melds retro and modern. the fragrance business? 21 BEAUTY’S TOP 100 12 WHAT’S IN STORE Find out who’s on top—and who’s not—in our 62 SCARPE DIEM This month: A slew of nighttime skin and hair annual ranking of the world’s biggest beauty Cartoonist Marisa Acocella Marchetto dishes on boosters, plus an array of antioxidants that pack a companies. her collaboration with C.O. Bigelow, the story powerful punch. behind her gripping graphic novel Cancer Vixen and how being a breast cancer survivor has changed 52 LA DOLCE VITA her perspective on beauty. Brit “It” girl Poppy Delevingne is making an effervescent splash in the social scene and causing quite a stir among luxury brands hoping to catch her while they can. Here, meet Delevingne and her sister scenemakers.

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most ON THE COVER: ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 196, recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all Poppy Delevingne at Elite + NO. 29, Aug. 8, 2008, WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, photographed for WWD Beauty holidays, with one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Biz by Guy Aroch. Hair by in March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit Wesley O’Meara at The Wall September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies Group; makeup by Katey Denno Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive at The Wall Group; styled by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bel- these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 Masha Orlov at CXA; set lando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, styling by Stephen Caputo at Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK Michele Filomeno. Produced by Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER Heather Robbins at The Photo No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER Department. Photographed at Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO Hotel Gansevoort, New York. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. PHOTOS BY GUY AROCH, MITCHELL FEINBERG AND TALAYA CENTENO

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 3 MASTHEAD

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Numbers never lie. And the fi gures in this year’s beauty editor Jennifer Weil, is a behemoth: In Beauty Top 100 for 2007 are especially revealing. total, beauty’s top 100 companies rang up a Our annual compendium of the world’s biggest combined $154.07 billion in 2007, about $14 THE SUM beauty manufacturers, the list is a landscape of billion more than in 2006. As we endure one of the state of the industry. The giants increased the the most economically unstable periods in the past distance between themselves and everyone else: two decades, that’s good news for a beauty industry Number one L’Oréal posted 2007 sales of $23.39 grappling with how to achieve growth. TOTAL billion, number two Procter & Gamble rang in Come fall, fragrance marketers are looking to with an estimated $17.8 billion and number three global blockbuster launches to spur gains in this registered $14.28 billion, almost double stubbornly stagnant category. Whereas the past few the estimated sales of the number four company years have been dominated by fl ankers, this season on the list, The Estée Lauder Cos. at $7.47 billion. sees a tidal wave of new brands: Estée Lauder, The ranking itself, spearheaded by European Lancôme, Calvin Klein, Gwen Stefani, Vera Wang, Gucci, Emporio Armani, Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfi ger, to name just a few. (“Warning,” writes beauty fi nancial editor Molly Prior in “Raising the Stakes.” “Launch list may cause readers to experience dizziness and shortness of breath.”) Tally up the fi gures from the top 10 launches alone and theoretically the industry is looking to add $1 billion in new sales to the category—a far-fetched proposition given that U.S. sales have been declining not rising. Here, Prior crunches the stats and talks to marketers and retailers alike to discover how they plan on monetizing new products into big numbers, the likes of which haven’t been seen in years.

“WARNING,” WRITES BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR MOLLY PRIOR. “LAUNCH LIST MAY CAUSE READ- ERS TO EXPERIENCE DIZZINESS AND SHORTNESS OF BREATH.”

One idea brands might want to try is enlisting a brand ambassador, such as WWD Beauty Biz cover girl Poppy Delevingne. The British-born New York-based beauty is one of a new breed of scenemakers. Usually both well-born and beautiful, this is a group that doesn’t defi ne itself by good looks or tony backgrounds. As I discovered while reporting “La Dolce Vita,” they’re as personable as they are beautiful, they work as hard as they play and they’re increasingly being tapped by luxury brands as see-and-be-seen ambassadors. “These girls are fun, effervescent and energizing,” says Richard Habberly of Elite +, Delevingne’s agency. “You can buy fashion but you can’t buy style and these girls personify that. They personify the lifestyle of luxury brands without being too manufactured because they’re luxury brands themselves.” And they know how to move the merch: When New York socialite and Beauty ambassador Tinsley Mortimer recently made a personal appearance at Saks’ Fifth Avenue fl agship, industry sources reported sales of her signature reportedly topped $15,000 for the day. As I’m sure any of the companies in the top 100 would be happy to attest to, that’s a number worth banking on. —JENNY B. FINE PHOTOGRAPH BY G.V.P./SUPERSTOCK BY PHOTOGRAPH

6 WWD BEAUTY BIZ Available at Macy’s

People, Places & Lipsticks PHOTO BY BLAKE SELL/BETTMANN/CORBIS GAME ON! AS MORE AND MORE Teenage boys better hand over the joystick. A rush of new with online games are considered affordable methods of WOMEN JOIN THE VIDEO video games focusing on weight loss, fi tness, gymnastics, homing in on older women. Console games are preferred GAME UNIVERSE, BEAUTY horseback riding and cheerleading means women are the by younger audiences and for roughly $200,000 to $1 new target demographic in a universe once reserved for million, advertisers can place brand imagery throughout ADVERTISERS ARE LOOKING TO their couch-riding brothers and sons. Nintendo’s Wii the console game-playing experience. GET IN ON THE ACTION, TOO. console is leading the diversifi cation efforts—almost 15 “The opportunities for sponsorship are unbounded,” BY RACHEL BROWN million units of Wii and Nintendo’s handheld system DS says Jonathan Epstein, chief executive offi cer of the were sold last year. Fit, a fi tness-related game released this video game ad fi rm Double Fusion, who estimates spring that has women sweating in front of their TVs, is that a principle sponsor of a cheerleading game, for on pace to reach three million in unit sales this year. And example, could easily get its brand seen by up to one beauty advertisers such as Proctor & Gamble and L’Oréal million girls. are among those clamoring to get in the game. PC and console game advertising isn’t merely Often engrossing players for long stretches, video about slapping logos in games, though. Advertisers games are increasingly compelling brand exposure can customize their ads for certain geographic locales platforms, marketers say. Research fi rm eMarketer or create branded games-within-games to directly forecasts that adertising spending for the video game communicate with players. So-called dynamic sector will soar 133 percent from $650 million in 2007 to advertising is also beginning to enable marketers to $1 billion in 2012, while the U.S. market for video game tout seasonal variations and new launches. “ hardware and software will climb 33 percent from $15.8 [companies] actually start to populate stores with real billion to $21 billion in the same period. Available on products,” says Ken Ripley, an executive vice president at everything from computers to cell phones to traditional in-game ad fi rm IGA Worldwide, of the ad capabilities consoles, games offer marketers a variety of avenues to in the PC game Sims 3 due out in 2009. “People don’t target their chosen slice of the female demo. Averaging think they can reach girls through games, but they are $15,000 to $100,000, banner ads or video clips paired completely and utterly wrong.”

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 9 People, Places & Lipsticks

PINK POWER BETSY OLUM KNOWS HER PALE SKIN ISN’T THE BEST CANVAS FOR PINK MAKEUP, BUT ’S SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF MARKETING HAS A MOLLY RINGWALD-ESQUE FONDNESS FOLLOW YOUR NOSE FOR THE HUE. SO WHEN TOO FACED Fragrance afi cionados can make a French pilgrim- des Capucines at Fragonard for a lesson in scent age to Grasse, or visit scent-namesake Cologne, history, then on to sniff fragrant teas at Mariage DISCONTINUED HER FAVORITE but perfume walking tours are the latest way to Frères. The cost is $155 ([email protected], SHADOW—A ROSY MAUVE DUBBED follow your nose. Paris-based Perfume Paths, led 33.1.45.51.53.80). Across the channel in London, HEIRESS—SHE WAS HEARTBROKEN. by Neela Vermeire, takes travelers on scented trips, Rita Goolamhossen’s Perfume Pilgrim walking from Serge Lutens’ purple jewel-box boutique at tours offer visitors “1001 Arabian Aromas,” a “IT WAS THE PERFECT SHADE. ANYONE Les Salons du Palais Royal to ’s insider’s guide to incense and hidden shops selling COULD WEAR IT,” GUSHES OLUM, WHO Champs-Elysée shop, with a stop for Ladurée oud and Middle Eastern perfume oils. Or, there’s BECAME A ONE-PERSON LOBBY FOR macarons on the way. Prices start at $157 (per- “Mayfair Memoire,” featuring iconic English ITS REVIVAL. OLUM, THOUGH, HAD A fumepaths.com, 33.6.30.79.06.95). Also in Paris, perfumers Geo. F. Trumper and D.R. Harris & A m.touch travel presents half- or full-day sessions Co., and also Floris, which has a little-known MORE CRITICAL FIGHT ON HER HANDS. with nose Marina Jung-Allegret, a consultant for museum. At the end, there’s a gift bag (included DIAGNOSED WITH BREAST CANCER IN L’Oréal and other French fi rms. Participants meet in the $100 fee) fi lled with scented sweets to take JULY 2007, SHE UNDERWENT SURGERY Jung-Allegret in her atelier to design their own home (perfumepilgrim.com, 44.79.41.65.33.37). Eaux Fraiches, or head off to the Théâtre Musée —SUSAN STONE AND TREATMENT. THIS SUMMER, OLUM WAS PRONOUNCED CANCER-FREE. ALONG WITH THE GOOD NEWS, SHE STRIKE A POSE FINALLY HAD A CONVINCING REASON London-based hairstylist Simon Charrison is entering FOR TOO FACED TO BRING BACK THAT Manhattan’s Lower East Side this fall with a modern salon based on retro styles. Pimps & Pinups, which PERFECT PINK: TO RAISE BREAST also has an outpost in East London, features Roar- CANCER AWARENESS. WORKING WITH ing Twenties’ bobs and Fifties’ updos as a staple of its style list, as well as more modern hair looks, TOO FACED CO-FOUNDER JERROD such as long, wavy locks. Charrison, who hails from BLANDINO, OLUM TWEAKED HEIRESS Australia, chose to expand his footprint in New York, BY AMPING UP THE PINK AND PAIRING most notably the Lower East Side, since it genuinely refl ects his salon’s DNA. “It’s similar to where we are IT WITH A TOASTED VANILLA. NAMED in London. It’s edgy, cool and young,” he says. BETSY BABY, $9 FROM EVERY SALE Measuring around 800 square feet, Pimps & Pinups will have eight chairs WILL BE DONATED TO THE BREAST and is slated to open in September; CANCER RESEARCH prices will hover in the $60 to $100 . “IT range. After a survey of Manhat- tan salons, Charrison said he TURNED INTO THIS saw a need for a salon that REALLY AMAZING offers midpriced dos to POSITIVE SPIN trend-hungry customers. “In New York there seems ON SOMETHING to be a lot of high-end sa- THAT WAS SO lons, and also cheaper ones. There doesn’t DIFFICULT,” SAYS seem to be a lot of BLANDINO. middle ground.” —RACHEL BROWN —ANDREA NAGEL ILLUSTRATION BY KATE DRENDEL AND BRIAN A. SHABAGLIAN; WINEHOUSE BY RUNE HELLESTAD/CORBIS; MAP BY ANNEBICQUE BERNARD/CORBIS SYGM

10 WWD BEAUTY BIZ we create unique scent & taste experiences people love © 2008 International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. What’s In Store

NIGHT CREAMS ARE 01 ROC MULTI- CORREXION NIGHT UBIQUITOUS, BUT NOW TREATMENT NEW NEW DELIVERY This formula provides the benefi ts of retinol—fi rm tex- METHODS, LIKE OVERNIGHT ture and even skin tone— while eliminating some of ACNE-FIGHTING the possible problems, POWDERS AND namely irritation and pho- tosensitivity. Vitamins C SMOOTHING HAIR and E and soothing emol- SUCCESS lients help abate redness SERUMS, HELP and fl aking, while a special NOURISH, SOOTHE aluminum tube keeps the AND TREAT WHILE active ingredients stable. YOU SLEEP. ($24.99; mass retailers) BY JILL SCHUCK TAYLOR 02 PHOTOGRAPHED BY DEEP SLEEP DREAMY THOMAS IANNACCONE PILLOW & BODY MIST Leave the prescription meds to serious insom- niacs. This natural tonic features encapsulated scent technology that provides a fresh wave of tranquil jujube dates and soothing chamomile with every movement. ($16; The Body Shop, thebodyshop.com)

03 KÉRASTASE NOCTO- GENIST SERUM NUIT Designed to be smoothed into dry or towel-dried hair before slipping between the sheets, this leave-in treat- ment delivers intense mois- turization with amino acids, emollient silk proteins and shine-enhancing vitamin E. ($65; 877-748-8357, kerastase.com)

04 COSMEDICINE SPEEDY RECOVERY ACNE TREATMENT NIGHTTIME BLEMISH POWDER This soft powder formula, packed with zit-zapping salicylic acid to unclog pores and cornstarch and bentonite to draw out bacteria, helps make spots disappear faster. Dust it on before bed and wake up to clearer skin. ($38; Sephora, cosmedicine.com)

05 ZO SKIN HEALTH OSSENTIAL RADICAL NIGHT REPAIR This month, Zein Obagi, the dermatologist who created the Obagi Blue Peel system, launches a complete skin care range called ZO Skin Health. The star product: this night cream with one percent concentrated retinol— about 10 times the industry standard for a nonprescription product, according to Obagi. ($325; select Nordstrom, Studio at Fred Segal, zoskinhealth.com) STYLED BY DANILO MATZ DANILO BY STYLED 12 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

What’s In Store

01 DR. HAUSCHKA Fall’s newest antioxidants REGENERATING SERUM ADD AN INVISIBLE YET Ideal for mature skin, this oil-free serum is made POWERFUL LAYER with red clover and clover OF PROTECTION LINE OF blossom honey to fi ght free radicals, fi rm the skin and TO THE SKIN WITH aid in regulating cell turn- JUST ONE DROP. over. Extracts of quince seed and tropical kalan- BY JILL SCHUCK TAYLOR choe are said to moisturize PHOTOGRAPHED BY DEFENSE and help plump fi ne lines. GEORGE CHINSEE ($85; Whole Foods)

02 OLE HENRIKSEN AFRICAN RED TEA SEE THE DIFFERENCE SERUM Skin care guru to half of Hollywood, Ole Henriksen tapped African red tea, known to fi ght against sun damage and pollution, as his antioxidant of choice. He also added fi rming sea kelp, anti-infl ammatory ginkgo biloba and bright- ening citrus extracts to his latest. ($48; select Sephora)

03 REN HYDRA CALM GLOBAL PROTECTION DAY CREAM Ren’s Global Protection Complex includes bioac- tives like antileukine and leghemoglobin, said to help repair the skin’s DNA and boost its immune sys- tem. ($55; Barneys New York)

04 SKINCEUTICALS PHLORETIN CF When combined, vitamin C and ferulic acid fi ght free radicals and hyperpigmenta- tion. Here, the combo gets a boost from patent-pending phloretin. A fl avanoid derived from the bark of fruit trees, it’s said to enhance penetration of these ingredi- ents and soothe infl amma- tion. ($150; .com)

05 CURES BY AVANCÉ SKIN REPAIR SERUM A mix of soothing lavender oil and antibacterial basil oil reduces infl ammation and other irritations; anti- oxidant marjoram oil helps maintain skin’s health. The Activator contains mineral- rich seawater to enhance the serum’s effi cacy.($65; curesbyavance.com)

06 ISOMERS ACCEL- ERATED RECOVERY SERUM Designed to be used in two-week increments a few times a year, this mixture of vitamin C and lipochro- man-6 destroys free radi- cals and stimulates collagen production with the peptide

blend Matrixyl 3000. ($130; MATZ DANILO BY STYLED

isomers.ca, shopnbc.com) MATZ DANILO BY STYLED 1814 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

A Closer Look

BEAUTY PRODUCTS THAT ACL ARE PURE ENOUGH TO EAT, ECO-FRIENDLY VERSIONS OF OLD FAVORITES PLUS A SLEW OF NEWS FROM THE NATURAL NATURAL PRODUCTS PRODUCTS CATEGORY. BY ELIZABETH BICKNELL PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS IANNACCONE yet quick-absorbing and light enough to put under a every day.” Royal jelly, which is the diet of This month, French skin care brand SOTHYS will queen bees, is the key ingredient, containing 17 amino launch Beauty Garden Organic Range. Approved by acids and multiple vitamins to nourish, soothe and Ecocert, the fi ve-item line—which includes a diminish redness. The serum is 99.86 percent natural, makeup remover, , face mask, face cream and according to the company…PHYSICIANS FORMULA body —has as its primary ingredients cherry is introducing three additions to its Ecocert-approved bud, hawthorn and angelica. “The bud is really the Organic Wear cosmetics line. Packaged in 100 percent life source of the plant, with the highest level of cell PLA biodegradable material, the Natural Origin Lip division,” says Brenda Gallagher, vice president of Veil, Eyeliner Pencil and Duos include national sales and marketing. “The amount of the organic jojoba seed and avocado oils as well as beeswax active ingredient is much more potent than when you and mica for smoothness, texture and luminosity. Free take it from an older plant.” Meanwhile, hawthorn of synthetic preservatives and cruelty-free, the products acts as an antioxidant, while angelica targets free will be sold at drugstores nationwide for $7.95 each… radicals to help prevent the fi rst signs of aging. DUWOP has revamped its original plumping Lip Beauty Garden will retail at select spas; prices range Venom with an eco-friendly version called Pure Venom. from $30 to $52...AVEENO adds to its Active Organic cinnamon oil plumps, while saffl ower oil Naturals line with Intense Relief Repair Cream for creates shine and organic castor oil conditions and the body. Says Alissa Hsu Lynch, group product smoothes. “We wanted to create this as a challenge to director for Aveeno, consumers are looking for a ourselves,” says Cristina Bartolucci, DuWop’s creative product that has healing moisture benefi ts. To that director. In a manner she calls “eco-pristine,” the end, the cream uses Aveeno’s signature colloidal ingredients can be traced back to the farm in the oatmeal formula to lock in moisture, plus pure oat midwestern United States in which they’re grown. Pure essence to soothe irritated skin and ceramides to help Venom launches this month at Sephora and will retail replenish the skin’s moisture barrier. Launching this for $24…In September, PATYKA will launch a month in mass retailers, it’s priced at $12... fi ve-stockkeeping unit organic cosmeceuticals line. The founder Horst Rechelbacher has unveiled his latest goal, says the brand’s creator Philippe Gounel, is to venture, INTELLIGENT NUTRIENTS. A combine luxury and effi cacy in organic skin care. comprehensive lineup of hair, skin and body “Organic cosmetics have the potential to be unappealing products, all items are 100 percent organic except for as far as texture and smell, but we’re working to bridge two products made for color-treated hair. Each item the gap between organic and luxury,” he says. Certifi ed in the line features the Intellimune Seed Oil by Ecocert, Patyka claims to be the fi rst brand to use Complex, an antiaging, antioxidant blend of black biotechnology to extract an organic version of cumin, pumpkin, red grape, red raspberry and hyaluronic acid. Star products include Élixir Nuit cranberry seeds. Many of the ingredients are grown Réparateur, a booster serum designed to be applied once on Rechelbacher’s 600-acre farm in Wisconsin, the or twice a week and containing rose hip seed and wheat only way he could get the ingredients he wanted for germ oils, as well as extracts of neroli, jatamansi and his products, said the entrepreneur during a recent palmarosa. Priced at $159, it and the entire line will be launch event, as the raw materials needed to make available at Henri Bendel...REN pays homage to the formulas such as his are not widely available. Prices rose with its fi rst fragrance, Rosa Maya, hitting shelves start at $5.25 for a chocolate bar and $17 for a lip this month. “The idea of a rose fragrance is such an balm, with most of the hair care items priced in the old-fashioned thing,” says Rob Calcraft, the brand’s $35 to $39 range. Distribution will include Barneys co-creator who spearheaded the scent’s development. New York, Space NK, ABC Carpet and Home and “But to us, it’s beautiful and wonderful, and we wanted Studio at Fred Segal. Rechelbacher is also working to do a modern take on it.” Rosa Maya opens with fl oral on deals with high-end salon and spa chains, as well and citrus notes, and ends with warm hints of as opening freestanding stores in Minneapolis, New sandalwood and vanilla. Says Calcraft, Rosa Maya is York and Toronto...BURT’S BEES boosts its antiaging franchise with the launch of Radiance Serum, priced at $17.99. “We were able to expand the popular 01 Beauty Garden Organic Range Make-up Removing Fluid, $30; Body Lotion with Radiance platform into the growing serum category,” Cherry Bud and Lavender, $36, and Face Care with Helianthus and Rosemary, says Paula Alexander, director of marketing for Burt’s $34; 02 Aveeno Active Naturals Intense Relief Repair Cream, $12; 03 Intelligent Bees. “Inspired by prestige products, we created a Nutrients Certifi ed Organic Intellimune Tablets and Intellimune Oil, $60 each. daily serum that is extremely nutritious to the skin

16 WWD BEAUTY BIZ StriVectin...“The® Stretch-Mark Cream Turned Anti-Wrinkle Phenomenon!™” GotTurkey Neck?

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BR12128 ©2008 All Rights Reserved A Closer Look

ACL meant to appeal to a consumer who’s interested in the complexities of the scent. It will be sold at Barneys New York and Studio at Fred Segal, and will retail for $80...This September, JERGENS aims to give consumers the best of both worlds with its Jergens Naturals Daily . The collection—which includes Hydrate, Renew, Soothe and Refresh versions—are meant to give buyers an authentically natural product from a familiar and recognizable brand. Using ingredients like cactus extract, grape seed oil, yogurt and mint leaf, the moisturizers are between 92 and 93 percent natural, and will sell in mass retailers nationwide for $8.49 each...This past June, celebrity hairstylist David Babaii embarked on his newest venture alongside actress and spokeswoman Kate Hudson, launching an eight-sku natural hair care line that donates 10 percent of profi ts to WildAid, a global animal protection group. The appropriately titled DAVID BABAII FOR WILDAID adds four new items to the line this month, including Mise en Plis Extra Hold and Light styling sprays, Amplifying Whipped Mousse and Volcanic Ash Root Amplifyer, all free of parabens, sulfates and petrochemicals. Each product includes mineral-rich volcanic ash from the Vanuatu Islands to add thickness and natural volume, along with multiple other plant-derived and exotic ingredients to keep it green. Sold in mass retailers like Target and CVS for prices ranging from $14.95 to $16.95, the brand expects sales of $20 million by yearend, a fi gure it expects to triple by the end of 2009...The ingredients of VERIKIRA NATURALS Spicy Citrus Walnut Scrub, launching this September, are based around the Vegan Cosmetics Organization guidelines. The scrub uses jojoba and aloe to nourish along with lemon, lime and ginger for a fresh scent and will retail for $30 at verikira.com; 16 percent of the proceeds will be donated to various charities aiding impoverished and malnourished children and breast cancer awareness... This June saw the launch of SPONGE skin care at Barneys New York. Created by Markos Drakotos and inspired by the organic sponges cultivated on the Greek island of Symi, the products are hand-blended with extra virgin olive oil and organically or wild grown herbs. Key products include Aromatotherapia Basiliko, $45, and Krema Triantafi llo, $85. The former is an organic basil hydrating aromatherapy spray, the latter a moisturizing rose cream. Many of the herbs and fl owers are grown in Greece. After arriving in the U.S., Drakotos says the plants are slowly boiled to release their extracts and then combined with olive oil for skin-soothing and hydrating benefi ts. “When our product arrives on the shelves, it’s only three weeks old,” he says...This month, DUCHESS MARDEN is introducing two new items to its lineup. Damascena Hydrating Masque, $52, uses rosewater, aloe gel, oat kernel extract and sea parsley extract, among others, to provide hydration as well as antiaging effects. “Two of the most paramount issues in skin care today are hydration and discoloration,” says Marla Steuer, 01 Burt’s Bees Radiance Serum, $17.99; 02 Physicians Formula president and founder of Duchess Marden. “Because of Organic Wear Eye Shadow Duos and Organic Wear Eyeliner the intensity of the sun, people of a younger age are Pencil, $7.95 each; 03 DuWop Pure Venom, $24 each; 04 Patyka getting age spots on their chest and face that can’t be Crème Miracle Réparatrice, $148, and Élixir Nuit Réparateur, easily reversed. We’ve found ingredients that reduce the $159; 05 Ren Rosa Maya Eau de Parfum, $80; 06 Jergens Natu- rals Renew Daily Moisturizer, $8.49; 07 David Babaii for WildAid quantity of melanin in the skin, but are completely Amplifying Whipped Mousse, $14.95; Mise en Plis Light Styling natural.” The new Damascena Enzyme Exfoliant Spray, $15.95; Mise en Plis Extra Hold Styling Spray, $16.95; incorporates jojoba beads and pumpkin enzymes to Volcanic Ash Root Amplifi er, $14.95. slough skin without irritation.

18 WWD BEAUTY BIZ With plants, you can see beauty grow. With plants, you can make women and the world more beautiful. You can erase the signs of passing seasons from a face, streamline a silhouette, protect a child from the sun… you can do wonders. But for that you need the knowledge, the curiosity and the persistence of researchers. You need the power of science to extract the beauty secret from the heart of each plant, to discover its most precious and effective ingredients. For more than 50 years, Clarins researchers have nurtured your beauty.

It’s a fact. With Clarins, life’s more beautiful.

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BEAUTY’S TOP EDITED BY JENNIFER WEIL. RESEARCHED AND COMPILED BY RACHEL TIPLADY. WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM BRID COSTELLO (LONDON), MELISSA DRIER, SUSAN STONE (BERLIN), POUL FUNDER LARSEN (COPENHAGEN), JANE MOIR (HONG KONG), STEPHANIE EPIRO (MILAN), PETER BORN, FAYE BROOKMAN, MICHELLE EDGAR, MATTHEW W. EVANS, ANDREA NAGEL, JULIE NAUGHTON, MOLLY PRIOR (NEW YORK) AND MICHAEL KEPP (RIO DE JANEIRO).

Beauty’s Top 100 ranks the world’s largest beauty manu- facturers in 2007. A Who’s Who of the cosmetics industry, these firms weigh in at $154.07 billion. The U.S. has the most companies on the list, with 34; France is second, with 16. Italy has 10; Germany, nine; the U.K and Japan hold eight apiece; South Korea has five; Switzerland, three; Russia and Brazil have two each, and Belgium, Sweden and Spain have one each. The firms are listed by their parent company and ranked by their beauty sales for the 2007 calendar year. For firms whose fiscal year did not run from Jan. 1, 2007, to Dec. 31, 2007, estimates were calculated. All sales figures were either obtained from the companies or generated with the help of industry sources. Beauty volume is made up of fragrance, makeup, skin care, sun care, hair care and deodorant, plus cellulite and products. It does not include bar soaps, razors, toothpastes, foods and diet foods, medicines, vitamins or detergents. Listed revenues only reflect sales of beauty products each firm manufactures and does not include business from products it might distribute for other companies. On-year percentage changes are in real terms, not on a like-for-like basis, and non-U.S.-based firms’ sales were converted into dollars according to the 2007 average yearly exchange rate. The subsidiaries and main brands column reflects companies’ beauty holdings in 2007. To be included in the Top 100, a firm must sell its products in at least two of the following major markets: Europe, North America, South America and Asia. RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY

L’OREAL GROUP Consumer: L’Oréal Paris, , For full-year 2007, L’Oréal’s net profi ts leapt 28.9% to ¤2.66 billion. CLICHY, FRANCE New York, SoftSheen All divisions and zones contributed to the gains. The “rest of the Carson. Professional: L’Oréal world” zone was particularly dynamic, generating 59.9% of L’Oréal’s Professionnel, Kérastase, Redken, $ 23.39 BILLION cosmetics growth and 29.2% of its overall sales. That region is Matrix, Mizani, PureOlogy. Luxury: 17.06 BILLION expected to offset the weak U.S. market again this year, according to Lancôme, , Helena 1 8.1% V. ’06 the fi rm. L’Oréal has pinpointed 12 high-growth countries to focus Rubinstein, Kiehl’s, , on in the future, including Ukraine, the Czech Republic, Dubai, Giorgio Armani Parfums and Thailand and Vietnam. The company’s largest market remains Cosmetics, Parfums Cacharel, Western Europe, making up 45.6% of its total consolidated cosmetics Ralph Lauren Fragrances, Paloma sales last year. In 2007, L’Oréal’s fastest-growing region was Eastern Picasso, Parfums Guy Laroche, Europe, whose business gained 34% on-year to reach ¤1.14 billion. Diesel, Yue-Sai, Viktor & Rolf. Active For 2008, the fi rm expects like-for-like growth of 6%. It continues Cosmetics: Vichy, La Roche-Posay, making strategic acquisitions. This January, L’Oréal inked a deal to Skinceuticals, Sanoflore. The Body buy YSL Beauté, the fragrance and cosmetics arm of PPR-owned Shop. Galderma, Le Club des Gucci Group, for ¤1.15 billion. It includes an exclusive and very Créateurs de Beauté, Laboratoires long-term worldwide license for the use of the Yves Saint Laurent Innéov (50% each). and Boucheron brands in the fragrance and cosmetics categories, under market conditions. Also under terms of the agreement, L’Oréal takes over Roger & Gallet and YSL Beauté’s licenses for the Stella McCartney, Oscar de la Renta and Ermenegildo Zegna brands in the fragrance and cosmetics categories. As of July 1, YSL Beauté became part of L’Oréal’s luxury products division. This February, Galderma Pharma, the pharmaceutical company jointly owned by L’Oréal and Nestlé, agreed to acquire CollaGenex Pharmaceuticals in a deal valued at $420 million. This March, L’Oréal became the sole owner of Le Club des Créateurs de Beauté catalogue after agreeing to buy the 50% stake in it formerly held by French catalogue fi rm 3 Suisses International. Terms of the deal were not disclosed. Also in March, L’Oréal signed a long-term beauty license with Belgian designer Martin Margiela, whose fi rst scent under the deal is expected out in fall 2009. Other company news included L’Oréal purchasing Turkish hair care company Canan in November 2007.

PROCTER & GAMBLE Procter & Gamble Beauty: Last year was full of robust activity for Procter & Gamble. In July CINCINNATI Pantene, Head & Shoulders, Clairol, 2007, P&G Beauty moved deeper into the youth market by signing a Herbal Essences, Nice ’n Easy, fragrance license with Italian fashion brand Replay and in the fall by Natural Instincts, Koleston launching Christina Aguilera’s debut scent. It will launch Aguilera’s $ 17.8 BILLION (EST.) Perfect, Sebastian Professional, second fragrance, Inspire, this fall. P&G Beauty continued to harness 2 9% V. ’06 (EST.) Vidal Sassoon, Infusion 23, Aussie, star power by naming Cate Blanchett global ambassador for SK-II in Rejoice (hair care). Cover Girl, October 2007; it signed a license with Avril Lavigne this June. This (makeup). Hugo Boss, September, the fi rm will also introduce Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme, Old Spice, Lacoste, Jean , a male follow-up to last year’s signature women’s fragrance. The new Valentino, Gucci, Escada, Puma, scent, whose advertising features actor James Franco, is expected Anna Sui, Ghost, Dunhill, Laura to generate fi rst-year retail sales of $180 million to $200 million, Biagotti, Dolce & Gabbana, Christina according to industry sources. P&G Beauty pushed into the prestige Aguilera, Replay (fragrance). Olay, hair care business this May by acquiring Frédéric Fekkai & Co. for a SK-II, , DDF, Gillette (skin purchase price estimated by sources at more than $400 million. Olay care). Secret (deodorant). was the leading antiaging brand worldwide last year with $2 billion in sales, according to P&G. Head & Shoulders recently introduced a new formula and updated packaging, resulting in double-digit sales growth, and Clairol Nice ’n Easy introduced technology designed to deliver multitone hair color. The brand’s market share also grew in 2007, thanks in part to ColorSeal Conditioning Gloss. Wella also had a strong year with Salon Color conversions. P&G Beauty’s colorants category overall eked out 2% growth, according to sources. This February, P&G Beauty introduced Perfect 10, a home kit billed to be a breakthrough since it takes only 10 minutes, smells better than most products of its kind and offers a lowered pH. This July, Marc Pritchard, previously P&G’s president of strategy, productivity and growth, was named as the fi rm’s global marketing offi cer, succeeding James Stengel, who will retire in October.

Sales figures in non-U.S. currencies were converted to the dollar using the following 2007 average exchange rates from FXHistory, at Oanda.com: $1 = ¤0.73082; ¥117.81453; £0.49987; KRW 935.26976; CHF 1.20042; Ruble 25.57944, and Real 1.95159. ALL PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE AND THOMAS IANNACCONE

22 WWD BEAUTY BIZ A NEW FRAGRANCE FROM

WWW.BURBERRYTHEBEAT.COM RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY

UNILEVER Unilever Personal Care: /Lynx, For full-year 2007, Unilever’s overall revenues came in at ¤40.19 LONDON, , /Sure, Degree, billion, a 1.4% increase on 2006. The company’s personal care division, ROTTERDAM , , Pond’s, , / including its bar soaps and oral care businesses, generated ¤11.3 billion, Seda/Sedal/Hazeline, , or 28% of Unilever’s revenues. (This is the same percentage as in , Mods, . 2006 and represents underlying sales growth of 6.7%.) Business from $ 14.28 BILLION (EST.) emerging markets and Asia remained constant on-year at 55% and 3 10.42 BILLION (EST.) 30%, respectively, of the division’s overall sales. This March, Unilever 2.2% V. ’06 (EST.) announced a restructuring in which its home and personal care division were combined with its food business to create a single category structure. The fi rm also grouped Central and Eastern Europe with Asia and Africa to make one business region in order to focus on growth in developing markets. In 2007, Unilever outlined a strategy to accelerate change, including stepping up innovation, shaping its portfolio by disposing of brands without a long-term strategic fi t and enhancing its fi nancial performance. Vaseline was Unilever’s fastest-growing global treatment brand in 2007, with gains of more than 8%. The four-unit Vaseline Cocoa Butter line, introduced internationally in 2007, was the brand’s most successful launch in the U.S. in 10 years. Pond’s went from “strength to strength” in Southeast Asia, China and India, said the company. Clear antidandruff also had a strong performance after its simultaneous launch in Brazil, China, Russia, the Philippines, Pakistan, Egypt and Saudi Arabia last year, making it Unilever’s fi rst major Asian hair brand to go global. Mods was relaunched in Japan in 2007. Axe/ Lynx and Rexona/Sure, the world’s second-largest and largest deodorant brands, respectively, racked up double-digit growth in 2007, according to the fi rm. Axe/Lynx entered Japan in 2007. THE ESTEE Estée Lauder, Aramis, , For its third quarter ended March 31, The Estée Lauder Cos. generated Prescriptives, Lab Series, , $1.88 billion in net sales, an 11% gain over third-quarter 2007. However, LAUDER COS. MAC Cosmetics, , net earnings dipped 4% to $90.1 million, due to sluggishness in the U.S. NEW YORK Tommy Hilfiger, Kiton, La Mer, For the nine-month period, net sales rose 12% to $5.9 billion, while Donna Karan, Aveda, Jo Malone, its net earnings decreased 1.9% to $353.6 million. This May, Lauder $ 7.47 BILLION (EST.) , Darphin, said it expects fi scal ’07-’08 full-year sales to increase 7% to 9% in local 4 10.4% V. ’06 (EST.) Michael Kors, American Beauty, currencies. Revenues from skin and hair care should lead, followed by Flirt!, Good Skin, Grassroots, Sean makeup and fragrance. Growth is anticipated to come primarily from John, Missoni, Daisy Fuentes, Tom the Asia-Pacifi c region, followed by Europe, the Middle East and Ford Beauty, Mustang, Coach, Ojon. Africa combined, then the Americas. In November 2007, the company announced the hire of Fabrizio Freda, formerly P&G’s president of global snacks, as president and chief operating offi cer. Also that month, Leonard Lauder announced plans to step down as company chairman in two years and to take on the role of chairman emeritus, clearing the way for his son, William (currently ceo), to take over. A month later, group president Philip Shearer resigned; this May, Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne also resigned his post as group president. Freda assumed his new position on March 3 and is expected to become ceo within two years. Other news included Lauder’s BeautyBank subsidiary in March inking a deal with HSN to launch a brand, Eyes by Design, exclusive to the channel, starting in July. Avon Color, Anew, Skin-So-Soft, In 2007, Avon’s total net income grew 11.1% to $530.7 million on NEW YORK Avon Solutions, Advanced revenues up 13.5% to $9.94 billion. Avon’s fi rst, two-year phase of its Techniques Hair Care, Avon ongoing half-a-billion-dollar turnaround plan was marked by layoffs and $ 6.93 BILLION Naturals, Avon Wellness, Mark, efforts to trim the product line. Chapter two will focus on sustaining 15% V. ’06 Derek Jeter. top-line growth and fortifying global brand equity. During 2007, Avon 5 spent nearly $370 million on advertising, almost triple its 2005 outlay. Avon launched its fi rst global marketing campaign in spring 2007. It said its ad-spend levels will be more in line with revenues growth. In August 2007, the company recruited its fi rst global ambassador, actress Reese Witherspoon. It inked a deal in March with Finnish textile and clothing company Marimekko for color cosmetics and announced a fragrance deal with Emanuel Ungaro. This April, Avon’s Mark brand signed on singer Jordin Sparks as its sales representative’s spokeswoman, and Avon inked a scent deal with actor Patrick Dempsey. This May, Avon revealed a fragrance partnership with the James Bond entertainment franchise and Bond girl Gemma Arterton. Its strategy last year to ratchet up prices for certain products, including the Christian Lacroix scent, worked. About half of its fragrance business’ 23% growth was due to Rouge. Avon’s restructuring plan is expected to save $430 million annually by around 2011 and entail 2,400 job cuts over the next three years. For 2008, the fi rm expects its revenues growth to be in line with its long-term target of mid-single-digit gains. The U.S. is Avon’s largest market, with $2.2 billion-plus in revenues and 460,000 active sales reps, followed by Brazil.

24 WWD BEAUTY BIZ www.ferragamo.com

EAU DE TOILETTE. FOR MEN AND WOMEN. RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY

SHISEIDO CO. Shiseido, Clé de Peau Beauté, In 2007, Shiseido was in the fi nal year of a three-year restructuring TOKYO Carita, Decléor, Nars, Joico, plan, during which it overhauled its domestic marketing operations Aupres, Supreme Aupres, Urara, and boosted global development. This April, the company announced Pure & Mild, Za, D’ici Là, Ipsa, $ 6.07 BILLION (EST.) a plan for fi scal ’08-’10, which addresses its global development and Ayura, Ettusais, Soka Mocka, ¥ 713.98 BILLION (EST.) includes the aim of annual sales growth of 20%. For the fi scal year Shiseido Fitit, FT Shiseido, Shiseido ended March 31, net revenues rose 4.2% to ¥723.5 billion; Shiseido 6 4.4% V. ’06 (EST.) Professional, Zotos, Sea Breeze. attributed the growth to its overseas business. Shiseido’s operating Serge Lutens. Beauté Prestige income increased 26.9% to ¥63.5 billion and net income gained 40.2% International: Parfums Issey to ¥35.46 billion. Shiseido’s domestic cosmetics sales—which decreased Miyake, Parfums Jean Paul Gaultier, 1.9% on-year to ¥439 billion—accounted for 60.7% of the company’s Parfums Narciso Rodriguez. overall net revenues. In Japan, Shiseido continued reorganizing and consolidating its brands; fi ve years ago, it had 100 lines there and now has 27. Shiseido’s overseas cosmetics business generated 36.4% of the company’s overall net revenues, which rose 10.7% on-year on a local- currency basis and 17.6% on a yen basis to ¥263.7 billion. Business in Asia for Shiseido remained strong, particularly in China, where revenues rose 30% in local currencies. There, Shiseido targets for its signature brand average annual growth of 10% on a local currency basis. Elsewhere internationally, plans to strengthen the Shiseido brand include renewing its product portfolio over the next three years and implementing a marketing strategy focusing on major cities, among other approaches. Shiseido’s sales increased 7.6% in the Americas, 6.3% in Europe and 16.3% in the Asia-Oceania region in local currency terms in fi scal ’07-’08. This March, Shiseido started selling in Romania and Bulgaria, bringing its presence in Europe to 41 countries. BEIERSDORF , 8x4, Atrix, Labello, Beiersdorf closed 2007, its 125th year, with another set of record results. HAMBURG, GERMANY Hidrofugal, La Prairie, SBT Skin Its beauty sales rose 8.3%, or 10.5% on a constant currency basis. While Biology Therapy, Juvena, Marlies $ 5.84 BILLION Europe continues to contribute the lion’s share of that business with Möller, Florena, Eucerin, C-Bons. 70%, the key developing markets of China, Russia, Brazil and India 4.26 BILLION drove big gains last year. Together, their sales surged 35.4%. Revenues for 7 8.3% V. ’06 Beiersdorf ’s beauty business in China spiked 45% on a constant currency basis, a turnout that does not refl ect the December 2007 acquisition of an 85% stake in C-Bons Haircare, a leading Chinese maker of local hair care and styling brands, for ¤269.5 million. The C-Bons move effectively doubled the size of Beiersdorf ’s Chinese operations. Beiersdorf also acquired the remaining 50% of its Swiss affi liate in 2007. The star Nivea brand continued its global advance, holding 136 number-one positions worldwide last year, up from 131 in 2006. Its sales rose in all regions in 2007, powered by Nivea Deodorant, Nivea for Men, Nivea Body, the relaunch of Nivea Hair Care and the year’s major product introduction, Nivea Visage Oxygen Power. With the slogan “Beauty is…,” Nivea also introduced an umbrella advertising campaign and communications platform, which will be rolled out to 60 countries by end-2008. Pharmacy-distributed Eucerin grew currency-adjusted sales 19.6%, and prestige brand La Prairie had a currency-adjusted sales rise of 10.7%. La Prairie’s Pure Gold face care and the 20th anniversary of its Caviar Collection played a signifi cant role in the growth, as did its travel retail business that generated double-digit gains, the company said. Beiersdorf ’s supply-chain revamp, started in 2005, is expected to bring cost savings of ¤70 million in 2008 and ¤100 million annually starting in 2009. JOHNSON & JOHNSON , Aveeno, RoC, Clean & Johnson & Johnson’s worldwide consumer segment, a division including NEW BRUNSWICK, N.J. Clear, Johnson’s, Ambi, Purpose, global beauty care as well as baby care, posted annual revenues of $14.5 Shower to Shower, Lubriderm, billion in 2007, a 48.3% on-year increase. Driving the gains were revenues from all holdings formerly owned by Pfi zer Consumer Healthcare, which $ 5.3 BILLION (EST.) Piz Buin, Le Petit Marseillais, Bebe, Desitin, Vendome, pH5.5, J&J acquired in late 2006 for an estimated $16.6 billion. Its businesses 11% V. ’06 (EST.) 8 Biapharm SAS. comprise skin care (including the Lubriderm brand), baby care, women’s health products, oral care and over-the-counter pharmaceutical items. J&J’s consumer segment in the U.S. generated revenues of $6.4 billion, up 40.1% in 2007 over 2006. Internationally, the division registered sales of $8.1 billion, a 55% gain. Last year, J&J’s skin care business increased 16% to $3.1 billion, according to the fi rm. The growth was attributed to business from well-received sun care items, primarily Neutrogena products with Helioplex, and the brand’s sales in Europe, Africa and the Middle East. Neutrogena Visibly Clear strengthened its leading position in France’s medicated face care market and took the number-three spot in the U.K. and in Germany, according to the fi rm. Its Norwegian Formula line posted double-digit revenues gains, due primarily to the launch of Everyday Body Repair in France. Strong sales were registered by Clean & Clear and Aveeno, as well. The newly acquired brands from Pfi zer accounted for 5.7% of J&J’s treatment category growth.

26 WWD BEAUTY BIZ ARTDECO COSMETIC GROUP

ARTDECO is Germany‘s No. 1 make-up brand in perfumeries, beauty salons and selective department stores. The market leader in the selective cosmetic market offers a unique variety of products which cover all areas of color cosmetics and there- fore perfectly complements and completes the ranges of other international brands. ARTDECO represents the 'missing link' bet- High-quality basic products and special products ween mass market and premium complement premium brands brands with uncompromi sing quality and very reasonable pricing.

NEW: Refillable products with exclusive design boxes PURE MINERALS Now, ARTDECO launches the latest innovation with mineral make-up. The new trend products from the U.S. contain high-quality minerals and natural pure ingredients. They are non- comedogenic, very cuta- neous tolerable and easy to apply. The new ARTDECO Pure Minerals make-up products give your skin a fascinating and radiant look. Limited edition collections: for example Bronzing and Glamour

High-quality care concept for nails, hands and feet

SKIN YOGA With „Skin Yoga – The new vision of beauty“, ARTDECO supplies an exclusive range with precious products at an excellent price- performance ratio. Skin Yoga represents a symbiosis of precious recipes and Oxyvital to enhance cell respiration, and so makes the line an exceptional skin care. The skin appears relaxed and balanced after using the appropria te Special highlights in skin care care products.

www.artdeco.de Visit us at: Beyond Beauty, Paris, 5th - 7th Oct. 2008, Hall 3/Booth N10/P11 TFWA World Exhibition, Cannes, 27th - 31st Oct. 2008, Riviera Village RH2 COSMOPROF Asia, Hong Kong, 12th - 14th Nov. 2008 ,/ "ÊVœÃ“ïVÊ“LÊUÊ>Õ~ÃÌÀ>ÃÃiÊ£ÎÊUÊnxÇxÇÊ>ÀÃvi`ÊUÊiÀ“>˜ÞÊUÊ/i°Ê³{™Ê­ä®n£Î£‡Î™äÊ£ääÊUÊ>Ýʳ{™Ê­ä®n£Î£‡Î™äʣәÊUʈ˜vœJ>ÀÌ`iVœ°`iÊ German Pavilion / Booth 1D1A/1D1B/1D1C RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY

KAO CORP. Kao Corp.: Bioré, Asience, Two years after its purchase of Kanebo Cosmetics, Kao’s business is Essential, Merit, Sifoné, Feather, going strong. The fi rm’s beauty sales in the fi scal year ended March TOKYO Liese, Blauné, Sofina, Aube, Est. 31 rose 7.5% to ¥627.9 billion, while operating income dipped Kao Brands: Jergens, Curél (skin 2.5% to ¥27.2 billion. The fi gures consolidate 12 full months of $ 5.05 BILLION (EST.) care). John Frieda, Guhl (hair care). Kanebo’s business for the fi rst time. Kao’s beauty revenues in Japan, 9 ¥ 594.2 BILLION (EST.) Ban (deodorant). KPSS GmbH: its number-one market with about two-thirds of its annual sales, 9.4% V. ’06 (EST.) Goldwell, KMS (hair care). Molton increased 7.8% to ¥448.6 billion. The fi rm’s second-largest market is Brown (fragrance, skin care). Europe, followed by China, Thailand, Taiwan and Malaysia. Kao’s Kanebo Cosmetics: Sensai, RMK, sales in North America and Europe remained unchanged in fi scal Suqqu, Lunasol, Impress, Aqua, ’07-’08 versus the prior fi scal year. Approximately one-quarter of Doltier, Twany, Freeplus, Evita, Kao’s revenues stem from exports. Kao’s premium hair and skin care Lissage, Allie (skin care, cosmetics). products performed well last year, according to the company, which Coffret d’Or, T’Estimo, Revue, Kate, launched the Asience hair brand in Shanghai and in Bangkok this Tiffa, Lavshuca (cosmetics). Dew spring. In Asia, Kanebo, which still operates as a separate company Superior, Kanebo Blanchir, Suisai from Kao, aggressively expanded its business in China’s department- (skin care). Sala (hair care). store and high-end drugstore channels, through which its products are sold in about 600 doors. Its recent key prestige launches include Coffret d’Or makeup and Dew Superior skin care. At Kanebo, nine brands (introduced in fi scal ’06-’07) reached “megabrand” status, which means each generated more than ¥10 billion, the company said. These include RMK, Lissage and Sensai.

CHANEL Chanel No.5, Allure, Allure Homme, After nearly three decades of helming Chanel’s makeup creation, NEUILLY-SUR-SEINE, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Chance, Dominique Moncourtois and Heidi Morawetz announced in No.19, Cristalle, Pour Monsieur, October 2007 that they would retire on Jan. 1. Replacing them as FRANCE Antaeus, Egoïste, Les Exclusifs global creative director for makeup is Peter Philips. During their (fragrance). Précision, Sublimage tenure, Moncourtois and Morawetz masterminded some of Chanel’s $3.88 BILLION (EST.) (skin care). Rouge Allure, Le Vernis, biggest cosmetics hits, including Vamp and Black Satin nail polishes, 10 2.83 BILLION (EST.) Inimitable (makeup). Rouge Allure and the limited edition Star Products, fashion- 13% V. ’06 (EST.) forward makeup compacts tied to what heads down Chanel’s runway each season. The company signed French actress Audrey Tautou as the newest face of Chanel No.5, succeeding Nicole Kidman. A TV campaign, which will air in 2009, is to be directed by Jean-Pierre Jeunet, who directed Tautou in Amélie. Chanel remained the best- selling women’s fragrance brand worldwide in 2007. Chanel makeup comes in fourth around the globe, while Précision ranked seventh in care and eighth in total skin care. Europe remains Chanel’s largest beauty market. Among the company’s key launches over the past 12 months were Aqualumière Gloss, Foundation Mat Lumière, Mascara Inimitable Waterproof, Sublimage Sérum, Sublimage Eye, Hydramax + Active and the Body Excellence line. A new iteration of Chanel No.5, called Chanel No.5 Eau Première, was created by in-house perfumer Jacques Polge and is due to be introduced in October globally.

LVMH MOET Perfumes and Cosmetics/ In 2007, LVMH Moët ’s Perfumes and HENNESSY LOUIS : Addict, Cosmetics division posted operating profi ts of ¤256 million, up 15.3% Higher, J’adore, Dolce Vita, Tendre on-year. Organic sales growth was 12%. Fragrance sales contributed VUITTON Poison, Fahrenheit, Eau Sauvage, 55% of the company’s overall beauty business, versus 52% in 2006. PARIS Poison, Midnight Poison, Capture Cosmetics rang up 26% (against 28% in the prior year). This was 11 Totale, Diorskin, Dior Homme, Miss followed by skin care, with 19% (as opposed to 20%). In 2007, beauty $ 3.74 BILLION Dior Chérie, L’Or de Vie. Guerlain: generated 16.5% of LVMH’s total revenues, unchanged on-year. 2.73 BILLION Issima, Shalimar, Les Aqua Allegoria, Europe, excluding France, produced 43% of beauty sales (versus 8.4% V. ‘06 L’Instant de Guerlain, Insolence, 41% in 2006); France, 16% (against 17%); “other markets,” 14% (as Vetiver, Super Aqua Serum, opposed to 13%); Asia, excluding Japan, 13% (the same as in 2006); Orchidée Impériale, Météorites, the U.S., 8% (in contrast to 9%), and Japan, 6% (versus 7%). Business Terracotta. Parfums : at LVMH’s best-selling brand Parfums Christian Dior was “solid” Givenchy Pour Homme, Organza, in all geographic regions and registered a strong performance in Amarige, Very Irresistible, Ange ou fragrance. Guerlain had an “exceptional” year, thanks to well-received Démon, Instant Magic, Givenchy Le products, growth from all categories and the result of investment Makeup. Parfums : Flower primarily in Europe and Asia, which has continued into 2008 by Kenzo, Kenzo Amour, Eaux by and improved the brand’s profi tability, the company said. Parfums Kenzo, Kenzo Ki. Parfums . Givenchy beat its profi t goals for 2007. Parfums Kenzo focused on Sephora. . Benefit Russia last year and saw “solid growth” from its Flower by Kenzo, Cosmetics. Fresh. . Pucci. Kenzo Amour and Eaux by Kenzo fragrances. Fendi and Pucci Make Up For Ever. launched Palazzo and Vivara, respectively.

28 WWD BEAUTY BIZ ARTDECO COSMETIC GROUP

MAKE UP FACTORY HIGH END MAKE UP BEYU THE YOUNG LIFESTYLE BRAND MAKE UP FACTORY is an exclusive make up In line with the latest trends on the inter- collection based on the principle “not only for national fashion scene, BeYu is a young professionals, but for everybody who wants to and stylish brand that incorporates cos- create a professional make up.“ Back to the metics, accessories and eyewear. It basics and essentials in make up, and up- offers premium quality at reasonable holding to the highest demands in quality, but prices and is designed exclusively for brought to the client directly from the factory to the specialized retail. the counter. A contemporary range to fascinate with the symbiosis of the sophistication and an extravagant simplicity.

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COTY Coty Prestige: Baby Phat, Calvin Klein, Coty bought DLI Holding Corp., parent company of Del Labortories—maker NEW YORK Cerruti, Chloé, Chopard, Davidoff, of the Sally Hansen, N.Y.C. New York Color and La Cross brands—from Jennifer Lopez, Jette Joop, Jil Sander, private equity fi rm Kelso & Co. on Dec. 31, 2007, for an estimated $800 Joop!, Karl Lagerfeld, Kenneth Cole, million. The takeover is part of Coty’s goal to reach $5 billion in revenues by $ 3.5 BILLION (EST.) Gwen Stefani, Lancaster, , 2010, thanks partly to a deeper push into makeup and skin care. Coty attributed 14% V. ’06 (EST.) Nautica, Nikos, Phat Farm, Sarah sales growth last year to business from its key brands—Adidas, David and 12 Jessica Parker, Vera Wang, Vivienne Victoria Beckham and ; launches of fragrances, such as CKIN2U, Westwood. Coty Beauty: Adidas, Calvin Klein Man and Daisy Marc Jacobs, and increased distribution in new Aspen, Astor, Dion, Chupa Chups, David and Victoria Beckham, markets like China and Hong Kong. In the fi scal year ended June 30, 2007, Desperate Housewives, Esprit, 55% of total sales came from Western Europe, 33% from the U.S. and 12% Exclamation, Jovan, Kate Moss, Kylie from the rest of the world. Coty Prestige generated 55% of revenues, and Minogue, Miss Sixty, Miss Sporty, Pierre Coty Beauty, 45%. Coty will launch Home Skin Lab on HSN this fall; it Cardin, Rimmel, Shania Twain, Stetson, signed a partnership with HSN to sell some Coty Prestige products this Tonino Lamborghini, Vanilla Fields. past spring. Coty recently inked scent licenses with Halle Berry, Enterprises and Tim McGraw. HENKEL Retail: Schwarzkopf, Dial, Fa, Kasper Rorsted became ceo of Henkel in mid-April, replacing Ulrich Taft, Gliss Kur, Schauma, Palette, Lehner. This February, Henkel announced the start of its three-year Global DUSSELDORF Diadermine, Brillance, Got2b, Dep, Excellence program, meant to generate annual savings of about ¤150 L.A. Looks, Citré Shine, Smooth ’N million starting in 2011. The plan could involve about 3,000 job cuts from $ 3.4 BILLION (EST.) Shine, Right Guard, Soft & Dri, Dry Henkel’s staff of 55,000-plus. Sales in Henkel’s cosmetics and toiletries 2.48 BILLION (EST.) Idea, Tone, Coast, Pure & Natural, division, including oral care, rose 3.7% to ¤2.972 billion in 2007. On a 13 3.7% V. ’06 (EST.) Souplesse, Paon, Fresh Light, Activ constant-currency basis, revenues increased 6.1%. Operating profi ts (EBIT) Dr. Hoting. Professional: Igora, for the division gained 3.8%, or 6.6% on a currency adjusted basis, to ¤372 bc bonacure, Osis, Seah Hairspa, million. In 2007, Henkel said it increased beauty market share in Western Silhouette, Indola, BlondMe. Europe, Eastern Europe and North America. Its business grew in the U.S., due to the consolidation of Right Guard. Henkel’s cosmetics and toiletries posted appreciable growth in the Middle East and some Latin American markets, but registered lower sales in the Asia-Pacifi c region. Henkel's consumer hair care business was driven by Palette and Brillance colorants.

LIMITED BRANDS Bath & Body Works: C.O. Bigelow, After Limited Brands’ owner Leslie H. Wexner sold off the bulk of the COLUMBUS, OHIO Signature Collection, Aromatherapy, company’s apparel stores division, including Limited and Express, in True Blue Spa, Patricia Wexler MD mid-2007, the company refocused on its core assets—Victoria’s Secret and Dermatology. Victoria's Secret: Bath & Body Works. That strategy includes building on existing markets, $ 2.8 BILLION Dream Angels, Supermodel by eyeing international expansion and shifting the focus to private label by 14 FLAT V. ’06 Victoria's Secret, Rapture, Body paring down the number of third-party brands in store. Victoria’s Secret By Victoria (fragrance). Very Sexy Beauty posted sales of $1 billion last year. Limited Brands said heightening (fragrance, makeup). Sexy Little awareness of Victoria’s Secret’s fragrance and cosmetics through Things (fragrance, body care). promotions and by adding merchandising units at cash desks will be key Beauty Rush, Victoria's Secret Pink going forward. Victoria’s Secret Beauty items have begun bowing in La (body care, makeup). Senza doors. Six Bath & Body Works stores are slated to open in Canada. Mary Kay, TimeWise, MK In spring 2008, Mary Kay introduced what it said is its most important Signature, Velocity. product since the company’s inception. The new Mary Kay Compact DALLAS and corresponding line of mineral powders replaces all of its previous compacts and allows customers to create their own product and color $ 2.4 BILLION (EST.) combinations. Industry sources estimate it will reap $54 million in 15 2.3% V. ’06 (EST.) fi rst-year retail sales. Mary Kay entered India on Sept. 13, 2007, exactly 44 years after Mary Kay Ash founded her company in the U.S. Mary Kay has 1.8 million independent beauty consultants in more than 35 markets, up from 1.7 million in over 30 markets last year. Online orders from its independent sales force account for more than 90% of revenues. The company’s beauty lineup includes more than 200 items in fi ve categories—facial skin care, color cosmetics, body care, sun protection and fragrance.

NATURA Chronos (skin care). Ekos (fragrance, Natura’s revenues growth, though strong, fell 1 percentage point short hair and skin care, bath and body oil). of overall gains in its domestic beauty market last year. Brazil’s largest COSMETICOS Mamãe e Bebê (fragrance, hair care, cosmetics company attributed its slower performance to increased SAO PAULO, BRAZIL bath and body oil). Amor América competition and a tough comparison on an outstanding 2006, when (fragrance). Diversa (makeup). sales rose almost 20%. In 2007, growth was driven by the expansion of its 16 $ 2.22 BILLION independent sales consultant team, which increased 16.4% to 718,000. Of R $4.3 BILLION that, 86,000 were abroad, 53% more than in 2006. In Brazil, the number 10.6% V. ’06 of consultants grew 12.7%. The fi rm’s 2007 net profi ts gained 2.8% to R$462.3 million. Natura’s international sales accounted for 4.3% of its business in 2007, up from 3.4% in 2006. It has not entered any markets since Columbia in June 2007 but will focus on entering the U.S. in 2009. It will also expand in its Latin American markets. In 2007, Natura launched 183 products. Between when Natura went public on the São Paulo Stock Exchange in May 2004 and December 2007, its stock price rose 165%.

30 WWD BEAUTY BIZ the n°1 in Italian Perfumeries* •Make-up •Face, Hair, Body and Sun-Tan Treatments •Aromatherapy •Men’s Line

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*NPD data by units 2007and first quarter 2008 - Selective Brands in Italian Perfumeries RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY GROUPE YVES (skin care, makeup, At constant currency exchange Yves Rocher’s sales rose 0.3% last year. In fragrance). Daniel Jouvance, Dr. October 2007, it took a 35% stake in organic French brand Terre d’Oc. ROCHER Pierre Ricaud, Santé Naturelle, Terms were not disclosed. By end-2008, Yves Rocher plans to launch a ISSY-LES-MOULINEAUX, Stanhome (skin care). Isabel signature organic facial care line and to revamp its signature brand (which FRANCE Derroisné (fragrance). Kiotis (skin rang up 62% of its overall business last year). The fi rm entered Vietnam 17 $ 2.14 BILLION and body care). Galérie Noémie in January and is growing its Chinese door count. Other new markets 1.56 BILLION (makeup). Terre d’Oc (35%). were Saudi Arabia and Colombia. By end-2007, Yves Rocher had almost 0.4% V. ’06 2,000 doors worldwide, with more than half abroad. Yves Rocher is expanding its presence by an average of 100 doors annually. Internet and mail order generated 41% of total revenues in 2007. There are 160,000 independent sales personnel and 5,000 full-time in-store employees. Overall 2007 revenues for Groupe Yves Rocher, which also manufactures textile and household products, were ¤1.991 billion, down 2.8% on-year.

ALTICOR Artistry, E. Funkhouser New Strong sales from each of Alticor’s beauty categories drove its double-digit ADA, MICH. York (EFNY), revenues gains last year, said the fi rm. Its pipeline churned out Artistry (cosmetics). Tolsom (men’s skin Crème LX, its most premium skin care product, billed to reenergize skin. The product bowed in December 2007 in Japan. Last year, Alticor’s largest $ 1.82 BILLION care). Body Series, G&H (body care). Satinique (hair care). beauty markets were China, Japan and Russia. In China, sales increased 18 12% V. ’06 15% over 2006 and key launches included Time Defi ance antiaging products. In Japan, sales dipped 3%, but Alticor anticipates Crème LX will accelerate gains there in 2008. In Russia, where sales soared 99% over 2006, drivers included strong launches like Artistry Shaded Cosmetics, Artistry Time Defi ance and additions to Satinique. Last year’s expansion into Russia fueled beauty growth Europe-wide. In 2007, Alticor’s sales in Europe gained 20%, versus 17% in the prior year. Its Asian beauty business grew, too, but Asia’s share of Alticor’s total revenues decreased to 70% last year versus 72% in 2006, due to increases in other regions. PACIFIC CORP. AmorePacific Corp.: Lolita AmorePacifi c Corp. is registering growth domestically and overseas. In SEOUL Lempicka, Jean-Charles South Korea, this has been across all channels. Its revenues in department de Castelbajac (fragrance). stores gained 13.2%, thanks to increasing demand for oriental herb-based AmorePacific, Sulwhasoo, Hera, cosmetics, such as its Sulwhasoo line. Specialty store sales rose on the back $ 1.79 BILLION Lirikos, Iope, , Mamonde, of 30 Hue Place outlet openings, bringing their number to 960 in 2007. A KRW 1.66 TRILLION Innisfree Etude, Hannule revamp of the distribution structure in South Korea’s specialty and discount 19 8.1% V. ’06 (cosmetics). Mise en Scene, Ryoe stores led to sales growth of 27.5% and 21.4%, respectively. Door-to-door (hair care). Happy Bath (body care). sales represented 36.8% of total business, with gains of 4.4%. The fi rm expanded in China, its second-largest market, focusing particularly on its Mamonde and Laneige brands. China accounts for 36.1% of overseas sales and is profi table just fi ve years after AmorePacifi c entered the country. Overseas revenues grew 22.4% in 2007. France accounts for 42.5% of sales and the U.S., 4.4%. Some 13% of revenues stem from overseas. The company said it is on track to make that 30% by 2015. ALLIANCE BOOTS No 7, 17, Soltan, Boots Expert, Alliance Boots reported its trading profi ts for the fi scal year ended March Natural Collection, Botanics. 31 increased 20.3% to £771 million, while its sales rose 4.8% to £15.3 GMBH billion. The company’s health and beauty division’s revenues grew 4.2% ZUG, SWITZERLAND in the period to £6.848 billion. Alliance Boots GmbH, a new group holding company, was recently established in Switzerland. The fi rm, 20 $ 1.68 BILLION (EST.) whose retail interests include Boots U.K. plus its own beauty lines, such £ 840.18 MILLION (EST.) as cosmetics brands No 7 and 17 and skin care brand Botanics, was 4.5% V. ’06 (EST.) acquired in June 2007 with funds advised by Stefano Pessina and private equity fi rm Kohlberg Kravis Roberts. Pessina was previously Alliance Boots’ executive deputy chairman. Alliance UniChem and Boots Group merged in 2006. This January, Boots built on its successful No 7 Protect & Perfect antiaging serum with day, night and eye creams. Other key launches were No 7 for Men skin care and Botanics Organic bath, body and treatment collection. KOSE Kosé Corp: Cosme Decorte, Awake, Kosé announced a new management plan in November 2007 that will run Beauté de Kosé, Sekkisei, Visée, until March 2011. Its goals include better enabling the company to diversify TOKYO Esprique Precious, Stephen Knoll into new markets and better satisfying consumer needs. Kosé is focusing on Collection, Prédia, Jill Stuart. Kosé building its brands in China and Taiwan, among other Asian countries, as its $ 1.52 BILLION (EST.) Cosmenience Co. Ltd., Kosé domestic trading environment becomes more competitive. For the fi scal year 21 ¥ 179.33 BILLION (EST.) Cosmeport Corp., Albion Co. Ltd., ended March 31, Kosé recorded a 2.2% increase in net sales to ¥180.22 billion. 1.5% V. ’06 (EST.) Dr. Phil Cosmetics Inc. Exports of ¥18.36 billion generated less than 10% of total revenues. Cost- cutting measures lifted Kosé’s ordinary income 4% to ¥14.85 billion and its net income 0.1% to ¥6.9 billion. Kosé’s net sales from beauty came to ¥134.156 billion, fl at on-year. The company said its Cosme Decorte business was strong. Sales of Albion cosmetics were better than expected. Revenues from Kosé’s mass market products increased 6.4% to ¥43.56 billion in the period. The fi rm entered Dubai in December 2007. Its core export countries are China, Taiwan and South Korea.

32 WWD BEAUTY BIZ We believe in delivering meaningful Innovation www.alcanpackagingbeauty.com

HBA New York: 9-11 September 2008 / Booth 1319 IMAGINATION REALIZED At Alcan Packaging Beauty, we believe Innovation can only be delivered by looking at the big picture - not just at the product but also at process and service innovation. Product innovation is the tip of the iceberg, focused on application performance, ease of use and extraordinary design. Process innovation is the driving force behind the scenes, focused on competitiveness, graphics quality, material combination and enabling new designs. Service innovation means understanding the value-chain and is focused on speed to market, global project management and the handling of complex supply chains. On an innovation-led market, with frequent product launches and fl eeting collections, we believe in making our customers’ dreams come true. With all this in mind, we offer our customers a unique combination of global development capabilities, imaginative teams and a shoot-for-the- stars mindset. RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY ORIFLAME Oriflame (makeup, skin care, Over the past fi ve years, Orifl ame has posted average annual sales growth COSMETICS fragrance, toiletries). of 18%. Net profi ts rose 24% in 2007 to ¤116 million. Orifl ame’s key markets of Russia, the Commonwealth of Independent States and the STOCKHOLM Baltics fueled much of the gains. The company derived 57% of its sales and 63% of its operating profi ts from the CIS and the Baltics last year. Its 21 $ 1.52 BILLION business in India and Indonesia accounted for most of its uptick in Asia 1.11 BILLION in 2007. Orifl ame sells in 60 countries through more than 2.2 million 21% V. ’06 sales consultants (a 22% increase on 2006). Its most recent addition is Iran. Color cosmetics generated 27% of sales last year, and skin care, 26%. Fragrance was the fastest-growing segment. Orifl ame’s ¤34 million global operational platform revamp was concluded in fi rst-quarter 2008. In March, it upgraded its guidance for 2008 sales growth to 15% from 13%. PUIG BEAUTY & Puig Prestige: Carolina Herrera Puig Beauty & Fashion Group produced new lines for virtually all of Perfumes, Paco Rabanne, Groupe its main brands last year. Its prestige division outshone its mass market FASHION GROUP Nina Ricci, Comme des Garçons sibling, Puig Beauty, with a 20.2% leap in sales over the previous year to BARCELONA Parfums. Prada. Payot. Puig represent 58% of total business. Key launches included Black XS for Her Beauty: Myrurgia, Perfumería Gal, by Paco Rabanne, CH Carolina Herrera and Prada’s Infusion d’Iris. Nina 23 $ 1.43 BILLION Antonio Puig, Antonio Banderas, by Nina Ricci, launched in 2006, became the number-one line. At Puig 1.05 BILLION Barbie, Adolfo Domínguez, Mango, Beauty, revenues rose 3.6% despite a reduction in noncore product lines 12.6% V. ’06 Massimo Dutti, Zara. from its personal care portfolio. Fragrance sales increased 9.5%. Spain remained Puig's main market. Latin American sales rose 21.6%, driven by the launch of Antonio Banderas’ Blue Seduction. In the last year, Puig created fully owned subsidiaries in Germany, Austria, Mexico and Brazil. Revlon, , Ultima II (cosmetics). Revlon’s restructuring in 2006 and 2007 resulted in top-line growth, Mitchum (deodorant). Charlie permanent reductions in the cost base of $55 million and an ongoing NEW YORK (fragrance). ColorSilk (hair color). focus on cost-control initiatives. Last year, Revlon’s net loss narrowed to $16.1 million, versus a net loss of $251.3 million in the prior-year period. $ 1.4 BILLON In 2007, the Asia-Pacifi c region and Africa combined was Revlon’s 24 5.2% V. ’06 fastest-growing market, with sales increasing 7.5%. The U.S. followed with 5.1% gains, and Latin America and Europe with 3.7% and 3.4% upticks, respectively. In 2007, the Revlon brand’s share of the U.S. mass market color business was about 13%, down from 14.1% in 2006. Revlon turned on the new product pipeline in 2007. Key launches included ColorStay Mineral Collection and Custom Creations foundation.

ALBERTO-CULVER Alberto VO5, TRESemmé, Nexxus, Due to the spin-off of Sally Beauty Supply in late 2006, Alberto-Culver’s MELROSE PARK, ILL. Consort, Family Fresh (hair care). total earnings dropped to $78.3 million in the 12 months ended Sept. 30, St. Ives (skin care). TCB, Soft & 2007, compared with $205.3 million during the same prior-year period. Beautiful, Just for Me, Motions However, on a like-for-like basis, sales rose 10.1% to $1.37 billion. The $ 1.37 BILLION (EST.) (ethnic hair care). revenues hike came thanks to Nexxus Salon Hair Care, which experienced 25 152% V. ’06 double-digit growth. TRESemmé also reported double-digit gains, propelling it to a number-one ranking in styling in the U.S. for the six months ended mid-March, the fi rm said. Earlier in 2008, Alberto-Culver closed a manufacturing plant in Toronto, resulting in $8 million of restructuring costs. But it expects to save about a penny a share in fi scal 2008 resulting from the closure and "signifi cantly more than that" in 2009.

ELIZABETH ARDEN : Elizabeth Arden (skin Elizabeth Arden in late May acquired global licensing rights for Liz NEW YORK care, color, fragrance). Prevage (skin Claiborne’s fragrance brands, including Juicy Couture, Usher, Lucky Brand care). Elizabeth Taylor, Mariah Carey, and Claiborne. Sources estimate the business generates roughly $270 million. Britney Spears, Hilary Duff, Danielle Terms were not disclosed. With the buy, Arden’s U.S. department store $ 1.37 BILLION (EST.) Steele, Alfred Sung, Badgley Mischka, unit almost doubled in size, its men’s business is strengthened and there 25 10.4% V. ’06 (EST.) Bob Mackie, Gant, Geoffrey Beene, is an opportunity to expand Arden’s international reach, said ceo E. Scott Halston, Lucky Brand, Nanette Lepore, Beattie. Arden’s revenues last year were driven by its fragrance businesses and Lulu Guiness, Rocawear, Giorgio of signature brand. In November 2007, Arden entered into a beauty licensing Beverly Hills, Daytona 500, Hummer, agreement with Iconix Brand Group for products under the Rocawear label. PS Fine Cologne, White Shoulders About 40% of Arden’s sales come from abroad, where its largest markets are (fragrance). Europe, the Asia-Pacifi c region, travel retail and emerging markets. GROUPE CLARINS Clarins: Eau Dynamisante, Total Body This July, the Courtin-Clarins family, majority shareholders in Groupe Lift, Super Restorative, Multi Active, Clarins, announced an offer worth ¤814.2 million to take the company NEUILLY-SUR-SEINE, Extra Firming (skin care). True Comfort FRANCE off the Paris Bourse. Their stated aim is to focus on mid- to long-term Foundation, Instant Smooth (makeup). strategies. In 2007, including its ¤47.8 million distribution business, Clarins Men (men’s skin care). Par Amour Clarins’ revenues surpassed ¤1 billion. Its net sales reached ¤1.01 billion, (fragrance). Parfums Azzaro: Azzaro $ 1.32 BILLION a 4.2% increase on 2006. Overall operating profi ts took a 12.5% hit to 27 959.7 MILLION pour Homme, Chrome, Azzaro Now. ¤111.4 million, partly due to the strong euro and some retailers’ inventory 5.2 % V. ’06 Parfums Thierry Mugler: Angel, Amen, Innocent, Alien, Eau de Star, Thierry reductions. (Clarins’ distribution business registered sales down 13.5% Mugler Beauty. My Blend by Dr. Olivier last year versus 2006.) Total company net profi ts slipped 1.7% to ¤90.7 Courtin. L’Occitane, Kibio (10% each). million, excluding a one-off gain involving the partial sale of Clarins’ stake in L’Occitane in 2006.

34 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY

GROUPE PIERRE Avène, Ducray, Pierre Fabre Beauty sales continued to drive total business at Groupe Pierre Fabre, Dermatologie, Galénic, Klorane, thanks to well-received product launches and geographic expansion, it FABRE René Furterer (skin and hair care). said. Beauty garnered 47.5% of overall company revenues, which reached BOULOGNE, FRANCE ¤1.68 billion last year, up 6% over 2006, an increase of half a percentage point. Wholesale revenues of the fl agship skin care brand Avène rose 28 $ 1.09 BILLION 10.2% to ¤360.7 million. The launch of René Furterer hair care in China 797.3 MILLION in September 2007 helped increase sales 12% to ¤49.1 million. Ducray 8.2% V. ’06 registered sales up 6.5% to ¤125.8 million, followed by Klorane, with a 4.6% uptick to ¤87.9 million, and Galénic, with a 2.8% decrease to ¤68.9 million. Total 2007 revenues for the fi rm, which also manufactures medicine and health products, were ¤1.7 billion, up 6% on-year. PPR YSL Beauté: Yves Saint Laurent YSL Beauté became part of L'Oréal on July 1 in a deal worth ¤1.15 PARIS (fragrance, makeup, skin care). billion. It includes an exclusive and very long-term worldwide license for Roger & Gallet (fragrance, bath the use of the Yves Saint Laurent and Boucheron brands in the fragrance and body care). Stella McCartney and cosmetics categories. L'Oréal also takes over Roger & Gallet and $ 889.6 MILLION (fragrance, skin care). Boucheron, YSL Beauté's licenses for the Stella McCartney, Oscar de la Renta and 29 649 MILLION Oscar de la Renta, Ermenegildo Ermenegildo Zegna brands in fragrance and cosmetics. In 2007, YSL 3.7% V. ’06 Zegna. Beauté’s growth was driven by YSL-branded fragrances, accounting for 42% of sales and whose business rose 18% in fourth-quarter 2007, thanks to the October 2007 launch of Elle. For full-year 2007, YSL Beauté's operating income more than doubled to ¤65 million. Fragrance rang up 64% of revenues; cosmetics, 30%, and skin care, 6%. Europe produced 72.5% of sales; North America, 12.2%; Asia, 10.1%, and the rest of the world, 5.2%. POLA ORBIS Pola: Apex-i, B.A., Creatage, Wrinkle Pola currently has three Pola The Beauty outlets in Shanghai, with fi ve Shot, White Shot, Estina Alvita, in China overall, 300 in Japan and 21 in other international markets. HOLDINGS Whitissimo, Signs Solution (skin care). Sales from the Japanese doors generate 15% of overall annual sales in that TOKYO Augha, Southern Call, Order Color country. The company has 4,500 sales offi ces and maintained its level of Market, Aniak, Vivoke (makeup). sales representatives at around 100,000 last year. Pola, which sells its Pola 30 $ 881 MILLION (EST.) Orbis: Aqua Force, Clear, Whitening, and Orbis brands in 15 export markets, said the U.S. is its largest. For ¥ 103.64 BILLION (EST.) Excellent, White Aw. pdc: Pure Pola, overseas revenues make up about 5% of its overall sales. For Orbis, FLAT V. ’06 (EST.) Natural, UV Moisture, Arbu White. they generate approximately 3% to 4%, according to the fi rm. Pola Orbis Future Labo: Derma Q II. Orlane Holdings, which recently began selling its Future Labo brand on TV, Japon: B21, Soin Hypnotherapy. said the business had underperformed. However, Future Labo plans to improve revenues in that channel by launching new products and brands. LORNAMEAD Finesse, , Harmony, Vosene Lornamead credited continuing geographical expansion, particularly LONDON Once, Brisk, Bristow (hair care). in the Middle East and Asia, as well as its acquisition of Woods of Yardley, Woods of Windsor, CD (bath Windsor for its double-digit revenues growth in 2007. Lornamead, and body care). Lypsyl (lip care). whose core strategy is to acquire and develop “heritage brands,” which $ 784.7 MILLION (EST.) Christy, Tura (skin care). Triple Dry it defi nes as those considered noncore by larger companies, saw strong 31 £ 392 MILLION (EST.) (deodorant). Handsan, Crisan (hair growth in emerging markets. The company, whose products are 11.6% V. ’06 and skin care). Té Tao (hair and body available in over 80 countries, opened an offi ce in Moscow to market care). its brands, particularly Yardley, Finesse, Lypsyl and Handsan, in Russia. It inked a deal with a distributor in South America to sell Yardley and Finesse. Recent launches include Yardley Lavender Spa. Finesse, which turned 25 in 2007, relaunched in Norway, Sweden and Denmark. LG HOUSEHOLD & Ohui, Whoo (prestige skin care, LG Household & Healthcare last year achieved its highest-ever cosmetics). Isa Knox, Lac Vert, beauty sales growth rate. It credits this to a focus on premium products HEALTHCARE Vonin, CathyCat, Sooryehan Hyo and a recently implemented strategy for generating new customers, SEOUL (skin care, cosmetics). Elastine, markets and product categories. Its cosmetics business grew 23.8% to Curair, Rien, Double Rich (hair care). KRW 432.7 billion in 2007. The Whoo and Sooryehan brands posted 32 $ 780 MILLION Beyond (body care). revenues gains of 37% and 40%, respectively. LG H&H plans also to KRW 722.3 BILLION raise the image of its Isa Knox products. It expects its top four brands, 10.1% V. ’06 which also include Ohui, to account for KRW 100 billion in sales in the near term. Overseas, where the company rings up about 10% of its beauty business, LG H&H focused on selling Ohui and Whoo products in high-end Chinese department stores.

SARA LEE CORP. Badedas, Duschdas, Monsavon, For the third quarter of fi scal ’07-’08, ended March 29, Sara Lee’s total CHICAGO , , Zwitsal (bath, body sales hit $3.2 billion, up 10.5% on the prior-year period. Operating income and personal care). , increased 61% to $242 million. For the fi rst nine months of the fi scal year, Williams (men’s toiletries). Matey operating income leapt 87% to $766 million on revenues that rose 9.6% to $ 774.3 MILLION (EST.) (bath care). $9.7 billion. Its household and body care business, which includes nonbeauty 33 4% V. ’06 (EST.) products such as air fresheners and insecticides, registered a 12.9% uptick in net sales to $571 million in the third quarter of fi scal ’07-’08. Operating profi ts for that division rose 32% to $77 million. For the fi rst nine months of the fi scal year, its operating income grew 2.7% to $198 million on a 13.1% revenues gain to $1.7 billion. The strong turnout came partly thanks to key brands Sanex, Radox and Duschdas.

36 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY

TUPPERWARE Avroy Shlain, BeautiControl, Fuller The direct seller boosted revenues across most of its brands and markets Mexico, NaturCare, Nutrimetrics, last year, thanks mainly to a drive to recruit more independent sales BRANDS CORP. Nuvo Cosmeticos, SwissGarde people. At the end of 2007, Tupperware Brands had increased its ORLANDO, FLA. (makeup, skin care, fragrance). beauty-specifi c sales force to 1.1 million, of which 627,000 were in North America. This is versus 900,000 sales consultants worldwide at 34 $ 719 MILLION the end of 2006. Net profi ts for Tupperware’s beauty business in North 8% V. ’06 America, its largest market, hit $66.3 million, up 14% on-year. By year-end 2007, its beauty products were sold in 23 markets. Tupperware holds particularly large shares of the beauty markets in Mexico, South Africa, the Philippines, Australia and Uruguay. Tupperware generated $1.98 billion in total revenues last year, up 14% on 2006.

COLGATE- , , In its fi rst quarter ended March 31, -Palmolive posted total PALMOLIVE Skin Bracer, Afta, , Caprice, sales of $3.71 billion, up 15.5% on the same period in 2007. Overall Lady Speed Stick, , Irish unit-volume growth was 5%. In 2007, net revenues for Colgate’s oral, NEW YORK Spring. personal and home care division were $11.9 billion, a rise of 13%. During the period, exchange rates positively impacted its sales by 5.5%. 35 $ 680 MILLION (EST.) The division’s net revenues in North America increased 5% in fi scal 3% V. ’06 (EST.) ’07-’08 over the prior year to $2.7 billion; net sales in Latin America gained 15.5% to $3.4 billion, and net sales in Europe and the South Pacifi c region combined rose 14.5% to $3.38 billion. In the Greater Asia and Africa regions combined, Colgate’s oral, personal and home care division’s revenues spiked 16.5% to $2.34 billion.

RECKITT Clearasil, E45 (skin care). Veet In fi rst-quarter 2008, Reckitt Benckiser’s total net sales were £1.51 billion, (depilatory products). up 20% or 11% on a like-for-like basis on-year. Its net profi ts jumped 15% BENCKISER to £205 million. Based on the showing, the company increased its like- BERKSHIRE, U.K. for-like full-year revenues’ growth target to between 7% and 8%. In 2007, overall sales increased 7% to £5.269 billion and profi ts rose 40% to £938 36 $ 665.6 MILLION (EST.) million. Reckitt Benckiser’s Health and Personal Care division, including £ 332.5 MILLION (EST.) the Dettol, Strepsils, Clearasil, Veet, E45 and Gaviscon brands, generated 9% V. ’06 (EST.) revenues of £1.2 billion in 2007, a 13% increase. Boots Healthcare International, which Reckitt Benckiser acquired from Boots Group plc (now Alliance Boots GmbH) in 2006, saw sales surge 13% on-year to £560 million, boosted partly by Clearasil. SISLEY Sisley (color cosmetics). Sisleÿa, Despite the challenging economic climate, Sisley expanded its PARIS Sisleÿa Elixir (skin care). Eau de Soir, international presence. The company inaugurated in October 2007 Eau de Campagne, Soir de Lune a subsidiary in Macao, where it opened a freestanding boutique in (fragrance). February. That followed the opening of two freestanding boutiques in $ 639 MILLION Hong Kong, the last of which bowed in September 2007. Currency 37 466 MILLION fl uctuations led to lower overall growth than in recent years. The 8.1% V. ’06 weakness of the dollar and Asian currencies negatively impacted Sisley’s sales by 5%. The fi rm nevertheless registered double-digit revenues growth in local currencies in North America, Asia, Europe and the Middle East. Recent launches include Hydra Global, Sisleÿa Radiance and Eye Contour Mask. Family-owned Sisley sells in 80 markets.

CVC CAPITAL The Colomer Group: Revlon The Colomer Group’s main markets remain the U.S., Spain, Italy, PARTNERS Professional, Modern Organic Mexico and France. It has 18 subsidiaries on all seven continents, Products (MOP), Arosci, African including nine in Europe, and a distribution network in more than LONDON Pride, Fabu-Laxer (hair care). 100 countries. The company employs 2,570 people, up from 2,030 in American Crew (men’s hair and 2005, according to its owner, private equity fi rm CVC Capital Partners. 38 $ 599 MILLION (EST.) skin care). Creative Nail Design (nail Colomer, formerly Revlon’s professional-products division, was acquired £ 437 MILLION (EST.) items). Crème of Nature (hair color). by CVC Capital Partners in 2000. It specializes in three beauty areas: 9% V. ’06 (EST.) Natural Honey (skin care). Revlon-branded hair and nail care products for professional salons, branded beauty products for general retail sales and hair care items for the African-American market. For the latter category, Colomer is among the beauty industry’s largest manufacturers. VORWERK & CO. Jafra Cosmetics: Royal Jelly, Jafra Cosmetics, of Westlake, Calif., introduced a new logo and a new WUPPERTAL, Elasticity, Retinol, Jafra Dynamics slogan—“The Power to Transform Lives”—last year. The company’s (skin care). Define Your Body, Jafra sales gain in 2007 came from strong revenues in its most vital market, GERMANY Spa, Art of Balance (bath and body Mexico, which generates 78% of overall sales. Revenues rose 12% there care). Navigo, Sphera, Victus, on-year. The U.S. is Jafra’s second-largest market, with 16% of total $ 592 MILLION Valferra (fragrance). sales, and Europe is its third, with 6%. In 2008, the fi rm expects to enter 39 5.4% V. ‘06 Brazil. Jafra’s products are slated to launch in Indonesia in 2009. This March, Vorwerk Direct Selling Ventures, Vorwerk Group’s corporate venture capital entity, invested in Austrian organic cosmetics maker Ringana. Ringana posted revenues of more than ¤5 million in 2007, up 40% on-year.

38 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY

L’OCCITANE EN L’Occitane en Provence (skin, hair, Yet another year of double-digit growth for L’Occitane en Provence was PROVENCE body and men’s care, fragrance, generated by aggressive store expansion. As of this March, L’Occitane had cosmetics). Le Couvent des 1,000 sales points in 87 countries, up from 800 in 2006. Two hundred doors MANOSQUE-EN- Minimes. are slated to open over the next year. Some 85% of its revenues come from PROVENCE, FRANCE overseas. Recently, L’Occitane entered Oman and Pakistan. This year, it will 40 launch in South Africa, Nicaragua, Bolivia and Syria. Its largest markets $ 572 MILLION are Asia, the U.S. and Europe. In June, L’Occitane acquired a controlling 417 MILLION stake in M&A Developpement, which owns Melvita, an organic cosmetics 24% V. ’06 maker. Terms were not disclosed. L’Occitane’s strongest categories in the year to May were body care, with 31% of sales; face care, with 27%; toiletries, with 18%; fragrance, with 10%, and hair care, with 8%.

MARKWINS The Color Institute, The Color Markwins attributes its double-digit sales increase to broadened INTERNATIONAL Workshop, The Spa Workshop, distribution in U.S. mass retailers and its push into new markets—for Wet ‘n’ Wild, Wet ‘n’ Wild Beauty instance, Wet ‘n’ Wild and The Color Workshop in Russia and ck CITY OF INDUSTRY, Benefits, Black Radiance, Tropez, Calvin Klein beauty in Europe, Asia, the Middle East and North CALIF. Beauty Basics, POP, ACT, Bratz, America. North America is Markwins’ largest market, accounting for 41 Disney’s Princess, High School 27% of total revenues. Sales there rose 6% , driven by Wet ‘n’ Wild. $ 540 MILLION Musical, Hannah Montana, Lilo Europe ranks second, making up about 21%. Revenues there increased 22% V. ’06 & Stitch, Glamour Girls, Jonel, 12%, thanks to the launch of ck Calvin Klein beauty. Business in Artmatic, SoHo, ck Calvin Klein Mexico surged 22%, due to Bratz and Disney’s High School Musical beauty. fragrances. Top markets for ck Calvin Klein beauty, introduced in September 2007, are Italy and France. Recent launches included Wet ‘n’ Wild Beauty Benefi ts mineral makeup.

EUROITALIA Versace, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Euroitalia’s business was negatively impacted by the strength of the euro CAVENAGO, ITALY Reporter, Moschino (fragrance). in 2007. Some 75% of the fi rm’s overall revenues are generated from Naj-Oleari (color cosmetics). exports, according to Euroitalia executives. During 2008, Euroitalia will focus on its Versace fragrance line. The company launched Versace $ 537 MILLION Pour Homme—a follow-up to the Versace women’s scent—in Europe 42 391.8 MILLION in May; it bows this month in the U.S. Industry sources estimate it will 5.7% V. ’06 generate fi rst-year global retail sales of $100 million. Euroitalia also introduced Hippy Fizz, the fourth scent in the Moschino Cheap & Chic franchise, this May. BARE ESCENTUALS bareMinerals (color cosmetics). Bare Escentuals’ sales spike last year came thanks to stepped-up SAN FRANCISCO RareMinerals, md formulations (skin distribution at home and abroad. Further expansion of its product care). portfolio also contributed to growth. In 2007, the fi rm increased its U.S. points of sale by almost 50%, to 559 locations, including 51 freestanding $ 511 MILLION boutiques, 185 Sephora locations, 248 Ulta doors and 75 department 43 30% V. ’06 store corners across J.C. Penney, Nordstrom and Macy’s. Bare Escentuals more than doubled its international business in 2007, which generated 8% of total sales. International distribution includes Japan, the U.K., Germany and France, through QVC and Sephora, among others. It acquired its former U.K. distributor, became the number-one foundation brand in Sephora France, launched a successful Japanese infomercial and made its debut on QVC Germany. NU SKIN Nu Skin (skin care). Last year, sales from the Japanese market contributed 38.4% of overall business, followed by the U.S., with 14.5%, and South Korea, with ENTERPRISES 12.3%. Fourth to sixth places were taken by Taiwan, Europe and China, PROVO, UTAH respectively. Nu Skin Enterprises, which operates in 47 markets worldwide, entered Venezuela in September 2007 and Slovakia in October 2007. Its 44 $ 498.5 MILLION loss-making business was closed in Brazil. In January, Nu Skin announced 9.7% V. ’06 it had gotten the green light from the Chinese government to start direct selling activities in all 18 districts in Beijing and four additional districts in Shanghai, allowing it to operate a direct-sales operation in all 12 Shanghai districts. A new company logo featuring a refreshed drawing of a fountain and an updated logo type was recently introduced. NIPPON MENARD Nippon Menard: Saranari, Nippon Menard restructured its business last year, including setting up LS, Fairlucent, Tsukika, Colax, a new strategy in China, where the company generates about half of COSMETICS CO. Beauness, Divum (skin care). its exports (contributing some 10% of overall revenues). It has outlined NAGOYA, JAPAN Embellir (skin care, makeup). Jupier, a marketing strategy for separate department store counters for its Pradeal, Stream (makeup). L’Eau Menard and Divum brands. During Nippon Menard’s most recent $ 451 MILLION (EST.) de Kasaneka, L’Eau de Ryokuei fi scal year, ended March 31, sales in China hit 158 million yuan, up 45 (fragrance). Kasaneka, Ryokuei 5.3%. For its current fi scal year, revenues in China are expected to reach ¥ 53.1 BILLION (EST.) (body care). 10% V. ’06 200 million yuan. This May, Nippon Menard began selling at its fi rst DFS airport shop, in Seoul’s Incheon Airport, and has aggressively expanded its travel retail presence. Nippon Menard has 108,000 beauty advisors in Japan, down from 113,000 in 2006.

40 WWD BEAUTY BIZ Photos: J. Gavard / J. Kluger Photos: J. Gavard

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O BOTICARIO Native Spa, Active, O Boticário O Boticário registered R$143 million in net profi ts last year, up 74.3% Men (skin care). Malbec, Zaad CURITIBA, BRAZIL over 2006. The company attributed the gains to a new retail concept (fragrance). Maquilagem Boticário grouping products by category as opposed to brand, which it has rolled (makeup). out to more than half of its wholly owned stores and franchises. It $ 429.6 MILLION should be in all of them by 2010. In Brazil, O Boticário has 47 wholly R 832 MILLION owned stores and 2,465 franchises. International sales generate 3% of 46 22.9% V. ‘06 total business and are expected to make 8% to 10% by 2010. Portugal is the largest export market, followed by Japan and the U.S., where distribution was reduced to 171 from 407 doors so O Boticário could focus on its own six stores. In February, vice president Artur Grynbaum was named ceo.

Fancl, Attenir (skin care, cosmetics). This March 1, Fancl appointed Kazuyoshi Miyajima as its ceo. Beauty FANCL CORP. Boscia, Cleartune, FDR, Fancl Men’s sales during the fi scal year ended March 31 rose 5.8% on-year to YOKOHAMA, JAPAN (skin care). ¥49.061 billion. During March, overall revenues decreased 1.7% versus the same month in 2006; sales from bricks-and-mortar locations were $ 406 MILLION (EST.) fl at, while the mail-order business was down 4.4%, refl ecting poor ¥ 47.79 BILLION (EST.) consumer confi dence in Japan, according to Fancl. The company 47 8.9% V. ’06 (EST.) has 218 freestanding stores in its home market, up from 208 in fi scal ’06-’07. Overseas, Fancl has 118 stores. Japan, Hong Kong, China and the U.S. are key markets. In the U.S., Fancl increased its door count to 200 from 140; in Hong Kong, to 30 from 28, and in China, to 52 from 23. Fancl also broadened its reach in Thailand and maintained its presence in Taiwan and Singapore. INTER PARFUMS Burberry, Lanvin, Paul Smith, Inter Parfums’ sales growth last year was driven by a 15% increase in S.T. Dupont, Christian Lacroix, revenues from Burberry fragrances, business from Van Cleef & Arpels NEW YORK Quiksilver/Roxy, Van Cleef & scents and the well-received launches of the Roxy fragrance and Gap beauty Arpels, Nickel, Banana Republic, line. Inter Parfums clocked gains from the majority-owned distribution $ 389.6 MILLION Gap, New York & Company, Aziza, subsidiaries it established in fi rst-quarter 2007 in the U.K., Germany, Italy 21.3% V. ’06 Jordache, Intimate. and Spain. In November 2007, Inter Parfums inked a deal with Brooks 48 Brothers for a line for men and women to be launched this year. For full- year 2007, net sales rose 7.4% to $115.4 million in North America; 35% to $173.2 million in Europe, and 15% to $28.2 million in Central and South America. In the Middle East, revenues gained 19% to $26.1 million and in Asia, they increased 16% to $43.9 million. DEL Sally Hansen (nail, lip, foot and Last year was one of transition for Del Laboratories. It began with LABORATORIES hand care, depilatories). La Cross, William McMenemy’s resignation from its board and ended with Del’s N.Y.C. New York Color (cosmetics). parent, DLI Holding Corp., being acquired by Coty Inc. on Dec. 31, UNIONDALE, 2007, for an estimated $800 million. Coty bought DLI from private N.Y. equity fi rm Kelso & Co. Del’s business is led by Sally Hansen, U.S. 49 leader in total nail care, with 41.4% market share for nail color and $ 345 MILLION 48.1% share for nail treatment, according to Information Resources 2.2% V. ’06 Inc. In the U.S., N.Y.C. New York Color generates an estimated $66 million in retail sales, according to industry sources. In late spring, the Sally Hansen Natural Beauty cosmetics collection launched, succeeding Healing Beauty, an earlier line being phased out. NOEVIR GROUP Noevir Co. Ltd.: Speciale Line, 505 In October 2007, Noevir was listed on the Second Section of the Tokyo TOKYO Line, 105 Line, 99 Line, Extra Line, Stock Exchange to better provide funds for new avenues of growth for NHS Line, Whiteness Concentrate both the company and its shareholders. The fi rm was delisted from the KJ, Raysela Suncare Line, Noevir 5 JASDAQ Securities Exchange this January. The company attributed its $ 323 MILLION (EST.) Makeup Line, Tokara Sea Mineral modest sales gain to increased recognition of its soy-based Sana Nameraka 50 ¥ 38.03 BILLION (EST.) Toiletries. Tokiwa Pharmaceutical Honpo skin care. Recently, Noevir has focused on strengthening sales of its 1.7% V. ’06 (EST.) Co. Ltd.: Nov Oliogomarine Line, existing skin care products. In November 2007, it opened two showrooms Nov III Skincare Line, Sana Excel in Japan, where customers can sample products. Noevir has more than Makeup, Sana Natural Resources, 180,000 independent salespeople in Japan and generates over 95% of its Sana Nameraka Honpo, Sana business domestically. Its main international markets are Taiwan, South Maikohan Makeup. Korea, China, Canada and the U.S. KALINA Chorny Zhemchug, Chistaya Linia, Kalina’s growth in 2007 was driven by revenues from its two main YEKATERINBURG, Serebrennaya Linia, Solotaya markets, Russia and Germany. With continued single-digit percentage Linia, Mia (skin care). Dr. Scheller’s gains from skin care, Kalina defended its leading domestic position. In RUSSIA Cosmetics (cosmetics, skin care). Russia, its share of the skin care market is 31%, versus 35% in 2006. Angelika Varum (fragrance). Last year, Kalina also posted growth from fragrance and makeup. 51 $ 317 MILLION Some 77% of revenues come from the Commonwealth of Independent 7% V. ’06 States, and 23% are generated in Central and Western Europe, chiefl y Germany. In Russia, wholesale revenues have trebled since 2005 to around $10 million. Last year, Kalina’s closure of its underperforming plant in Omsk, Russia, helped boost overall profi ts, which rose 40% to $22 million.

42 WWD BEAUTY BIZ RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY TIGI (hair and body care, Beauty sales continued to account for about two-thirds of Tigi’s overall LEWISVILLE, TEX. cosmetics). Catwalk, S-Factor (hair revenues in 2007. Sales of its hair care and styling products increased care). B For Men (men’s hair care). 6% on-year, according to the company. TIGI, whose business includes TIGI Colour (professional color). beauty products, plus Toni & Guy salons and academies in the U.S., $ 315 MILLION generated more than $430 million globally during 2007, according to 52 10% V. ’06 industry estimates. Last year, the fi rm focused on distributing TIGI Colour, its fi rst professional hair color line. TIGI discontinued its Unleashed skin care line in 2007 to focus on hair care and cosmetics. Other new products last year included Bed Head Superstar, a line of sulfate-free . This year, the fi rm is launching B For Men, a men’s hair care and styling collection.

Bulgari Perfume Division: Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, Eau Parfumée In 2007, Bulgari’s fragrance and skin care division registered a 15.4% ROME au Thé Blanc, Eau Parfumée au Thé increase at comparable exchange on 2006, driven by the launch of Rouge, Bulgari Pour Femme, Bulgari Omnia Amethyste in 2007. Called the Bulgari Perfume Division, it made up 20.3% of total revenues in 2007 versus 20% in 2006. After $ 304 MILLION Rose Essentielle, Voile de Jasmin, Bulgari Pour Homme, Petits et introducing Bulgari Acqua Pour Homme Marine this March, Bulgari 53 221.9 MILLION Parfums will follow up with the new women’s fragrance Jasmin Noir, 10.1% V. ’06 Mamans, Bulgari Black, Bulgari Blu, Bulgari Blu Pour Homme, Blu Notte, which is to be on shelves worldwide in September. Following the launch Blu Notte Pour Homme, Aqua Pour of Bulgari skin care in October 2007 in 150 Italian doors, the 15-item Homme, Omnia, Omnia Crystalline, line is rolling out to Spain, Switzerland, France, the United Arab Omnia Amethyste (fragrance). Bulgari Emirates, Hong Kong and Singapore by the end of 2008. Bulgari also (skin care). plans to expand the collection with two new products. Lush (bath, body and skin care). Lush’s sales spiked thanks in part to expanded distribution. The company opened 88 stores in 2007, bringing its total door count to POOLE, U.K. 524. It entered a number of markets, including Ukraine, Slovakia and Luxembourg, and teamed with Macy’s to open 16 shops-in-shops in the $ 297 MILLION (EST.) U.S. Lush introduced a recycling scheme in January. When consumers 54 £ 148.4 MILLION (EST.) bring fi ve empty Lush containers back to its stores, they receive a freshly 22% V. ’06 (EST.) blended face mask in return. Earlier this year, the fi rm ran a campaign to give prisoners in Guantanamo Bay a fair trial. About one-third of Lush’s sales are generated in the U.K. Its largest export markets—whose sales combined grew faster than revenues at home—are North America and Europe. Recently, Lush entered Finland and Kuwait. Banana Boat, Hawaiian Tropic (sun In July 2007, was acquired by Energizer Holdings Inc. for HOLDINGS care). approximately $1.9 billion. Energizer, which posted total sales of $3.65 billion for its most recent fi scal year, ended Sept. 30, 2007, said Playtex’s ST. LOUIS revenues for the 12 months ended March 30, 2007 (the latest available), totaled $641 million. Playtex’s earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation 55 $ 280 MILLION (EST.) and amortization were $126 million. That does not include Playtex’s spring 8% V. ‘06 (EST.) 2007 acquisition of Hawaiian Tropic from Tanning Research Labs, which had estimated 2006 sales of $112 million. More than 93% of Playtex’s revenues are generated in North America, the remainder from about a dozen countries. With its new owner, whose products are sold in 150 countries, Playtex should have a wider geographic reach.

SCHERING-PLOUGH Coppertone, Bain de Soleil, In 2007, Schering-Plough grew its overall global sun care business HEALTHCARE Solarcaine (sun care). Dr. Scholl’s 8% to $239 million. According to the company, sales of its sun care For Her (treatment). products were driven by well-received line extensions within the PRODUCTS CORP. Coppertone Continuous Spray franchise. Coppertone increased its KENILWORTH, N.J. retail revenues about 4% to more than $150 million in U.S. mass 56 retailers, excluding Wal-Mart, according to Information Resources Inc. $ 270 MILLION (EST.) Coppertone Water Babies Sunscreen retail sales grew 20%, according 8% V. ’06 (EST.) to the fi rm, and Coppertone Kids Sunscreen, 30%. Schering-Plough’s main sun care markets are North America, Europe, South America and Australia. Coppertone was the leading sun care brand in the U.S. last year with approximately 27.24% dollar share, a 1.65% decline, said IRI. LIZ CLAIBORNE Liz Claiborne Cosmetics: Juicy In late May, Elizabeth Arden acquired the global licensing rights for NEW YORK Couture, Usher, Curve, Realities Liz Claiborne’s fragrance brands. Terms were not disclosed. At the (fragrance). $ 270 MILLION (EST.) time, William L. McComb, ceo of Liz Claiborne, said, “Through this partnership, we can continue to successfully develop and market brand- 11% V. ’06 (EST.) enhancing fragrances in a more capital-effi cient manner, leveraging our 56 strength in brand-building with Arden’s expertise in developing and growing fragrance businesses.” Liz Claiborne Cosmetics attributed its sales growth last year to the launch of the Usher masterbrand in the U.S. and to the strong international rollout of Juicy Couture. Some 15% of Liz Claiborne’s sales were generated outside of the U.S. in 2007.

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 43 RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY OMEGA PHARMA Bergasol (sun care). Restiva (hair The Belgian pharmaceuticals company continued to register double- NAZARETH, BELGIUM care). Poudres T. Leclerc, Aco Hud, digit growth in beauty sales last year, driven by revenues from makeup Claire Fisher, Eau Precieuse, Innoxa, and slimming products, which performed well in many countries. Sant’Angelica (makeup, personal Sales from sun care products dropped, due to bad weather during the $ 232 MILLION (EST.) care). XLS, Fat Control, Cellulase summer of 2007. Business last year from Omega Pharma’s cosmetics, 169 MILLION (EST.) (slimmers). skin and hair care products generated about 21% of the company’s 58 10% V. ’06 (EST.) total consumer health division sales, which also contain revenues from home diagnostic tests and vitamin and mineral remedies. Omega Pharma’s largest markets are France and Belgium, with 23% and 25%, respectively, followed by Scandinavia and Italy. Total Omega Pharma revenues for 2007 rose 8% to hit ¤789.3 million. ALES GROUPE France: Laboratoires Lierac, Alès Groupe’s top-line growth last year masked loss-making brands PARIS Laboratoires Phytosolba, and a drop in earnings. In 2007, profi ts fell 21.6% on-year to ¤6.7 Laboratoires Ducastel, Parfums million, mainly because of increased promotional spend equivalent Caron. U.S.: Alès Group Inc./ to 37% of its annual sales. That was versus 35% of revenues in 2006. $ 231 MILLION Phyto: Secret Professionnel, Kydra This March, Alès announced it will discontinue its unprofi table 59 168.3 MILLION (hair care). Phytospecific (ethnic Phytoderm treatment brand. In 2007, Alès closed its Caron boutique 4.4% V. ‘06 hair care). Lierac, Phytoderm (skin in New York. Lorenza Battigello, who replaced founder Patrick Alès as care). Caron (fragrance). Epure managing director in February (while he became the fi rm’s nonexecutive (cosmetics). chairman), plans to focus on building business in Europe, where 80% of sales are generated. Alès entered the Netherlands this March and opened a Portuguese subsidiary this May. In 2007, the tough retail climate in France improved to fi nish business there up 3.6% over 2006. By category, skin care generated 53.5% of sales last year; hair care, 40%, and fragrance, 6.5%.

AFFINITY EQUITY TheFaceShop: Arsainte, Bean As of mid-April, the 70% stake held in TheFaceShop by buyout fund Therapy, Ice Flower, Greatist, management concern Affi nity Equity Partners Ltd. was up for sale, PARTNERS LTD. Alpine Herb (skin care). Span according to reports. Bidders reportedly shortlisted included The SEOUL Moisturizing, The Flower Silky, Carlyle Group, Bain Capital LLC and Advantage Partners LLC. The Phytogenic Make Up (cosmetics). stake is expected to fetch between $350 million and $450 million. 60 $ 226.5 MILLION Changpo (hair care). Pure for Men TheFaceShop, which is 30% held by its founder Jung Woon Ho, KRW 209.74 BILLION (men’s skin care). Soul Blue, Soul declined comment on the speculation. TheFaceShop has some 500 15.5% V. ’06 Green (fragrance). stores in South Korea and 19 other markets, including the U.S., China, Japan and Singapore, selling a wide range of beauty products. MAXIM Maxim Cosmetics (private In the private-label sector last year, Maxim Markenprodukte, the 700 label). Créateurs Cosmétiques employee-strong, family-owned fi rm, said it stepped up its focus on MARKENPRODUKTE (fragrance, bath and body care). developing and producing antiaging skin care products. Maxim also said PULHEIM, GERMANY Berlin Cosmetics: Indra (natural that in 2007 its business generated from premium face and body care cosmetics). Kaloderma (makeup, items increased. Recently, Maxim has been pushing its 150-year-old $ 226 MILLION fragrance, skin, hair, bath and Kaloderma body care line into new export markets. Maxim’s production 61 body care). Elysées Cosmétiques. 165 MILLION facilities in Germany, France and Luxembourg manufacture more than 15.4% V. ’06 Cosmolux. 200 million units annually. New products for the Indra brand were among key launches last year, according to the fi rm. BOTTEGA VERDE Bottega Verde (face, body, bath, By the end of 2007, Bottega Verde had 336 stores—making it Italy’s COSSATO, ITALY sun,hair and men’s care, makeup, largest single-brand beauty retailer—and 6.7 million customers, according fragrance). to the fi rm. This year, the company will open 18 freestanding shops in Spain for a total of 50 there and 11 in Russia, upping its number to $ 222 MILLION 20 countrywide. New locations are also slated for Greece and Turkey. 62 162 MILLION Bottega Verde has 13 freestanding stores in the Middle East. In all, its 4.5% V. ’06 products are sold in multibrand stores in 15 countries, of which the fastest growing are South Korea, Ukraine and Romania. Its portfolio comprises more than 600 products in seven categories: facial skin care, color cosmetics, body care, sun protection, beauty accessories, fi ne fragrances and toiletries. In 2007, Bottega Verde said it launched more than 100 new stockkeeping units. COLLISTAR Collistar (color cosmetics, skin, Collistar continues to be Italy’s best-selling prestige perfumery brand. MILAN hair, body, sun and men’s skin care, It has held onto its number-one position in Italy’s selective-perfumery aromatherapy). channel in terms of unit sales for fi ve years running, according to The NPD Group. Last year, Collistar registered double-digit revenues gains $ 215 MILLION domestically, where its products are sold in 2,000 perfumery doors plus 157 MILLION in La Rinascente and Coin department stores. Collistar also focused on 63 17.2% V. ’06 growing its exports, which generated 23% of overall sales in 2007, versus 21% in 2006. Collistar’s products are sold in 40 countries throughout Europe, the Middle East and Asia. The company entered Germany in December 2007 and is also focusing on Asia. It entered Taiwan in May, Hungary in March and Turkey in January. The fi rm developed a whitening skin care line, which launched in Hong Kong in April.

44 WWD BEAUTY BIZ RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY MICYS Pupa Makeup (color cosmetics, In 2007, Micys’ export sales generated 40% of the company’s total CASATENOVO, ITALY beauty kits). Miss Milkie (bath, body revenues, unchanged on-year. Pupa’s makeup sales generate 75% of and sun care). Milk Therapy (face the company’s export business, up 5 percentage points over 2006. In care). Yes Gold (fragrance). skin care, Micys tried growing its Milk Therapy skin care line with $ 211 MILLION an intensive print advertising campaign in Italy. As part of its quest 154 MILLION to be recognized as a 360-degree beauty fi rm (and not just a beauty 64 10% V. ’06 kit expert), Micys introduced the AEF Breast Volume Enhancing Treatment this June. The product contains Volufi line, which purportedly increases breasts by one size. KELEMATA Orlane, Annayake (skin care, Plans are afoot to open fi ve new freestanding Perlier-Kelémata stores TURIN, ITALY fragrance, makeup). Perlier: Ricette in Italy by the end of 2009. Already, Kelémata has 22 such doors in Naturali (toiletries, body care, Italy and Paris. Among key launches for the company in 2007 was fragrance). Kelémata (skin care). Body Honey Miel, whose product formulas are based on organic Italian $ 210 MILLION Venus (skin care, toiletries). Victor honey. Also last year, as part of its La Voglia Matta line for younger 65 153 MILLION (fragrance). consumers, Kelémata introduced mini versions of its lip glosses plus hair 3% V. ’06 and body treatments. Among new items from Orlane were Crème de Nuit Réparatrice Anti-Fatigue Absolu antiage treatment, Pure Jeunesse Concentré Contour des Yeux eye concentrate and Sérum Super Hydratant serum. An antiwrinkle treatment, called Fermeté Anti-Rides Extreme, was introduced by Annayake last year.

SELECTIVE Agent Provocateur, Marbert, Perfume Holdings, a subsidiary of Milan-based investment fund BEAUTY Benetton, Trussardi, Sonia Rykiel, Investindustrial, bought a 77% stake in Selective Beauty this May for an Balmain, MaxMara, Iceberg, John undisclosed sum. It acquired the 46% previously owned by U.K. company PARIS Galliano, Jimmy Choo. 3i, plus the amounts held by private investors and existing management, including Christophe Cervasel, co-founder of Selective Beauty. The 66 $ 193 MILLION (EST.) company’s other founder and chairman, Corrado Brondi, retains the 141 MILLION (EST.) remaining stake through his CB Holding company. Selective Beauty 24% V. ’06 (EST.) said Investindustrial will provide it with fi nancial resources necessary to develop the brands it has licensed and that it distributes. Last year, growth was driven from all divisions. Launches included MaxMara’s Le Parfum, plus scents from Iceberg. A John Galliano fragrance bows this fall. About one-quarter of overall sales stem from Selective’s distribution activities. Including that business, total revenues for 2007 reached ¤188 million. WELEDA Wildrose, Mandel, Calendula, In 2007, Weleda’s total sales broke the ¤200 million mark for the fi rst ARLESHEIM, Iris, Sanddorn, Birke, Edelweiß, time. Its revenues, which came in at CHF 361.25 million, up 11.7% on- SWITZERLAND Lavendel. year, were boosted by the success of its body care products, generating two-thirds of its total sales, and gains from its pharmaceutical business. Weleda made its fi rst major moves into the mass market: In the U.S., 67 $ 188 MILLION it increased its doors to 15,000 from 8,000 via Target and Walgreens, CHF 225.3 MILLION and in the U.K., via Waitrose and the supermarket’s online store, 13.8% V. ’06 ocado.com. In May, Weleda’s management chairman Mathieu van den Hoogenband stepped down and was replaced by Patrick Sirdey, formerly vice chairman. Top performing markets are the countries where Weleda items are made—Germany (with 56.8%), France (with 21.9%) and Switzerland (with 13.8%).

EUGENE PERMA Eugène Perma Paris: Kéranove, The reorganization of its subsidiaries and the repositioning of its GROUP Pétrole Hahn, Eugène Color, professional hair care business caused Eugène Perma’s sales to dip last Biorène, Artist(e), Cycle Vital, year. Meanwhile, Eugène Perma’s EBITDA rose 20% in 2007 versus PARIS Essentiel (hair care). Chen Yu (skin 2006. Some 70% of revenues are generated in France, up 5 percentage care, makeup). points on 2006. Spain and Italy are the two largest international 68 $ 182 MILLION markets, generating 20% of total annual sales. In the near term, the 133 MILLION company plans to increase international sales by focusing on the U.S. 5% V. ’06 and Russia. After three years in the U.S., Eugène Perma is looking for more distributors; in Russia, it signed on a distributor this March. In Eastern Europe, Eugène Perma plans to build up its presence in countries such as the Czech Republic and Ukraine. Its products are sold in more than 40 countries covering all continents. JOHNSON Fashion Fair Cosmetics (makeup). Fashion Fair Cosmetics’ business remained fl at in 2007, due to tough trading conditions in the U.S. The company’s strongest and largest PUBLISHING home markets remain Chicago, New York and Atlanta. Abroad, the CHICAGO fi rm does business in parts of Africa, the Caribbean, the Bahamas and Bermuda. Its key international markets are Canada, France and 68 $ 182 MILLION (EST.) the U.K. In October 2007, Coca-Cola executive Anne Sempowski FLAT V. ’06 (EST.) Ward was named president and chief operating offi cer of Fashion Fair Cosmetics. Johnson Publishing said it is overhauling its global growth strategies, including all aspects of sales, product development, supply- chain management and marketing.

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 45 RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY

STEINER LEISURE Elemis, La Thérapie (skin care). Elemis attributed its growth to well-received skin care launches. The NASSAU, THE fi rm continued investing in the antiaging treatment segment. Its body BAHAMAS care products’ reformulation and repackaging will continue through 2009. The company’s largest markets are the U.S., U.K., Asia and the $ 177.7 MILLION (EST.) Middle East. Last year in the U.S., Elemis entered Bergdorf Goodman and 24 Nordstrom doors (15 additional openings are planned for 2008). 70 17% V. ’06 (EST.) In the U.K., it launched in seven locations. Elemis also was introduced in South Korea, Turkey, Portugal, Norway, Russia, Lithuania, Montenegro, Tanzania, Kenya and Uganda. This year, plans call for Australia, the U.A.E. and Japan. Elemis is a subsidiary of Steiner Leisure, whose total sales reached $529 million last year.

MIRATO Malizia: Malizia Uomo, Malizia In 2007, Mirato’s operating profi ts rose 6% to ¤17.8 million, while LANDIONA, ITALY Profumo d’Intesa (fragrance). Malizia net profi ts increased 15.5% to ¤10.7 million. Net sales from Mirato’s Family (bath products). Malizia private label business came in at ¤8 million. Its largest markets were Ecologica (hair care). Intesa: Intesa the European Union, with 36.08% of sales; Eastern Europe, with $ 177 MILLION Pour Homme (body care). Intesa Sex 23.84%; Africa, with 20.16%; Asia and the Middle East combined, 129 MILLION Unisex (hair and skin care, fragrance, with 18.94%, and other, with 0.98%. The company reportedly expects 71 4% V. ’06 deodorant). Intesa Styling, Gomgel, 3.3% revenues growth this year, thanks to broadening the distribution Splend’or (hair care). Clinians (skin of its Geomar brand in Southern Italy. Consolidated company sales care). Geomar (body care). are expected to increase due to a contract with a large retail operation to produce a private label line. Mirato’s EBIT for 2008 is projected to rise 5% to ¤18.7 million, and its gross margin is expected to gain 6% to ¤18.9 million. MAURER & WIRTZ Tabac Original, Tabac Man, Granvalor Mäurer & Wirtz had great expectations for 2007, predicting a 22% STOLBERG, Tabac, Tosca, Sir Irisch Moos, sales increase. The reality came in at a disappointing 3.9%. Export sales GERMANY Nonchalance. 4711. s. Oliver Man/ remained at 20% of total revenues. Key markets include Germany, the Woman, s. Oliver SPORTS ‘1’ Male/ Benelux countries, Austria, Switzerland and Spain. The fi rm exports Female, s. Oliver SILVER Man/Woman, to 135 other countries. In January, Mäurer & Wirtz launched a new 72 $ 165.6 MILLION s. Oliver SELECTION Man/Woman. corporate image, including an updated logo and the slogan “House of 120.8 MILLION Carlo Colucci Uomo, Carlo Colucci Perfumes.” In September 2007, its 4711 brand (acquired in December 3.9% V. ’06 Uomo Mare, Carlo Colucci Emozione 2006, with other brands, from Procter & Gamble) was given an image Uomo, Betty Barclay Woman, Nº2/ revamp. Mäurer & Wirtz keeps pushing into selective distribution, Nº3, Betty Barclay In Love. Pussy following its return in July 2007 with the launch of Pussy Deluxe. Deluxe. Otto Kern Man/Woman. HERMES Hermès Parfums: 24 Faubourg, Hermès Parfums’ formidable growth over the past few years has largely Calèche, Hiris, Amazone, Rocabar, been thanks to one blockbuster scent: Terre d’Hermès, launched in March INTERNATIONAL Bel Ami, Equipage, Eau d’Orange 2006. The men’s fragrance was the bestseller in 2007, while the latest PARIS Verte, Eau d’Hermès, Rouge women’s juice, Kelly Calèche, has also drummed up strong sales since its Hermès, Un Jardin en Méditerranée, debut in June 2007. For fi rst-quarter 2008, Hermès Parfums’ sales reached $ 163 MILLION Un Jardin sur le Nil, Un Jardin après ¤31.1 million, a 14.3% increase. Fragrances generated 7% of Hermès 73 la Mousson, Eau des Merveilles, 119 MILLION International’s total annual revenues in 2007, unchanged on-year. Hermès 18% V. ’06 Collection Hermessence, Terre Parfums’ strongest markets, in order, are France, Italy, the U.S., Germany, d’Hermès, Kelly Calèche. Spain and the U.K. The company will enter India this year. Its third “garden” fragrance—Un Jardin après la Mousson—launched in May and could reach ¤16 million at wholesale in its fi rst year, sources say.

DR. WOLFF-GRUPPE Dr. Kurt Wolff: Alcina Balance Dr. Wolff-Gruppe’s total sales, including revenues from its BIELEFELD, GERMANY Kosmetik (hair and skin care, pharmaceutical holding Dr. August Wolff, rose 8% last year to ¤136 makeup). Alpecin, Plantur 39 (hair million. Its cosmetics division, Dr. Kurt Wolff, registered sales growth care). Dr. August Wolff: Linola (skin of 11% to ¤86 million, largely driven by revenues from its anti-hair $ 163 MILLION care). loss brands Alpecin and Plantur 39. Sales of Alpecin products, aimed 119 MILLION at men, climbed 17% to ¤39 million. However, revenues generated 73 8.3% V. ‘06 from the Alcina Balance Kosmetic line, sold largely in Germany by hairdressers and aestheticians, fell 2.5% in 2007, partly due to a higher domestic sales tax and shrinking numbers of consumers in hair salons. Plantur 39, marketed to women, brought in ¤14.5 million, a 27% leap in 2007 over 2006. LABORATOIRES Corine de Farme, Institut Phyto Laboratoires Sarbec’s growth was driven by well-received product (skin care). Jacomo, C. de Farme introductions in 2007, rather than launches compounded with new SARBEC Paris (fragrance). market incursions as in 2006. Fragrances, cleansing products and skin NEUVILLE EN FERRAIN, care for babies led the charge, particularly the launch of the Jacomo FRANCE for Men fragrance in May. Exports made up 45% of its total business, 75 versus 40% in 2006. New markets included South Africa, Angola, $ 152 MILLION Brazil and Thailand. The company trades in 61 countries with its mass 111 MILLION market brands, Corine de Farme, Institut Phyto and C. de Farme Paris, 4% V. ’06 and in 115 countries with Jacomo. Each year, the fi rm revamps some 25% of its product portfolio. For 2008, Laboratoires Sarbec is aiming for 7% sales growth.

46 WWD BEAUTY BIZ RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY

PARLUX Paris Hilton, Guess, Ocean Pacific, The reorganization initiated by chairman and ceo Neil Katz when he XOXO, Gund, Andy Roddick, Jessica joined Parlux Fragrances in spring 2007 continues. Alongside signing new FRAGRANCES Simpson, Nicole Miller, Maria fragrance licenses with fashion houses and celebrities, Parlux is developing FORT LAUDERDALE, Sharapova. relationships with new distributors in international markets. Sephora, FLA. for instance, is the exclusive distributor of Guess in its doors outside of the U.S. This spring, Parlux inked deals with Queen Latifah and lingerie 76 designer Josie Natorie; their scents are both due out in September 2009. $ 150 MILLION (EST.) 14% V. ’06 (EST.) Parlux is launching Jessica Simpson’s Fancy in U.S. department stores now. A global rollout to 90 countries will follow by yearend. Parlux’s strongest export markets are Canada, Russia, Mexico, the European Union, U.K. and Asia. Best-selling brands are Paris Hilton and Guess.

THE CLOROX CO. Burt’s Bees (face, lip, body, baby, In November 2007, The Clorox Co., a $4.8 billion manufacturer of household DURHAM, N.C. sun and hair care). products, bought Burt’s Bees for $913 million. Burt’s Bees president and ceo John Replogle said the price showed Clorox’s commitment to a green $ 150 MILLION (EST.) business model. In 2007, Burt’s Bees focused on new products and expanded 30% V. ’06 (EST.) distribution. The company, whose formulations are based on natural 76 ingredients such as beeswax and honey, was owned by AEA Investors and co- founder Roxanne Quimby. The products are sold primarily in natural grocery stores, drugstores, specialty stores and select mass stores. Executives expect sales to grow in the low- to mid-teen range for the next few years, driven primarily by distribution gains.

ARTDECO GROUP Artdeco: Artdeco. BeYu Artdeco Group posted strong international growth last year, particularly KARLSFELD, Cosmetics & More: BeYu. ICB in Spain, France and Ukraine. Its products are sold in more than 60 GERMANY Innovative Cosmetics Brands: countries. Revenues from exports—making up 52% of total company Make Up Factory. Malu Wilz sales—rose by double digits. In 2007, new markets included Saudi Beauté: Malu Wilz. Arabia and Qatar, where Make Up Factory was introduced. Revenues 78 $ 146 MILLION from BeYu grew 20%, thanks to new sales partners in Belarus and 106.4 MILLION Thailand, plus development in Russia, Ukraine and Iran. The signature 9.1% V. ’06 Artdeco line, which generates more than 60% of overall sales for the fi rm and has 17% market share for selective makeup in Germany, proved popular in Taiwan and China.

COMBE Just For Men, Grecian 5, Grecian Just For Men, hair color specifi cally targeting men, grew sales 3.4% in WHITE PLAINS, N.Y. Formula, Brylcreem, Aqua Velva, 2007 over 2006 to $102 million, according to Information Resources Inc. Lectric Shave. It did not include Wal-Mart, which is estimated to account for about 30% of Combe’s total colorant revenues. In the U.S., Combe ranked fourth $ 142 MILLION (EST.) behind L’Oréal, P&G and Revlon. (In 2006, it took the third spot.) Its 79 5% V. ’06 (EST.) big product initiative was the launch of Touch of Gray, meant to lure men wanting to fi nd an appealing shade of gray. First-year retail revenues could reach $20 million, according to sources. In the U.S., Combe’s total annual retail sales are estimated at $320 million. Just For Men products are in over 50 countries. About 44.7% of Combe’s revenues are generated by men’s color. The rest comes from skin, foot, oral and denture care.

STYLING LIFE B&C Laboratories: Soigne, Soigne Styling Life Holding’s beauty arm, run by B&C Laboratories, HOLDINGS Agnize, Vecua, Restgenol, Love attributed its sales growth last year to the stellar performance of its Clover, Tsururi, Delitia, Satishe, Vecua brand, which is sold through department stores. In the year TOKYO Vecua Ex, Anuenue, Cleansing ended March 31, B&C Laboratories’ sales in that channel spiked 140%, Research. thanks to four door openings (bringing the total count to 22) and to 80 $ 141 MILLION (EST.) the growing popularity of Vecua. In the fi rm’s most recent fi scal year, ¥ 16.6 BILLION (EST.) its revenues growth in self-service retailers came in at 5%. In its CP 5% V. ’06 (EST.) Salons, where business gained 3.4%, the company focused on retailing the Soigne salon skin care brand. In fi scal ’07-’08, B&C Laboratories generated an estimated ¥28.77 billion in total retail revenues, up 4.8% on the previous year. Its products are sold in eight countries. DR. BABOR Babor Fluids, Argan Cream, Anti- Family-run Dr. Babor’s slight dip in sales last year was due in part to AACHEN, GERMANY Stress Cream, Wrinkle Filler, Babor the strength of the euro against the dollar and weakened consumer Feetness, Fruity Beauty, Babor Body spending. Some 70% of Dr. Babor’s sales are generated from outside Line Thermal, Babor Men, Babor Germany and 60% of those are in countries trading in dollars or $ 134 MILLION Spa Around the World, Babor Sun currencies pegged to the dollar. The fi rm’s main market is Germany and 97.9 MILLION Care System. top European export markets are Spain, the Netherlands, Russia and 81 0.8% V. ’06 Scandinavia. The U.S., Australia and South Korea are also key. In the U.S., Dr. Babor closed its fl agship spa in Palm Beach, Fla. For 2008, the company expects to generate sales of ¤99.5 million and plans to move into new markets, including Mexico, Kuwait and the Philippines.

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 47 RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY

APAX PARTNERS LR Health & Beauty Systems: LR Health & Beauty Systems, based in Ahlen, Germany, is among LONDON Christina Aguilera, Anastacia, the largest direct sellers of nutritional and beauty products. It sells in Heidi Klum, Carmen Electra, Sarah 30 countries through more than 250,000 independent sales agents. Connor, Michael Schumacher, Boris Its largest markets are Germany, France, Greece, Scandinavia and the $ 131.6 MILLION Becker, Ralf Moeller (fragrance). Benelux countries. New market entries in 2007 included the Philippines 82 96 MILLION MicroSilver Skin Care, Serox by LR, and Bulgaria; a foray into Romania is planned for September. LR 1% V. ’06 Algetics, Aloe Vera Face and Body Health & Beauty Systems’ total sales of ¤186 million were fl at between Care, Iris Berben Skincare (skin and 2006 and 2007, due to higher living costs in Germany and slow body care). Udo Walz Hair Care and economic growth elsewhere. Key launches last year included a scent Styling (hair care). Nanogold, LR from Christina Aguilera, with whom the company has a fragrance Colours (makeup). license for the direct-sales channel.

GROUPE JACQUES Parfums Bogart: Bogart pour Growth last year was on target. Gains came from new market openings Homme. Parfums Chevignon: for fragrances from French clothing brand Naf Naf and from Bugatti BOGART Che de Chevignon. Parfums automobiles, whose licenses Jacques Bogart acquired in 2006. The PARIS Façonnable: Façonnable Homme. company took the scents to the Middle East, Russia and South America. Parfums Ted Lapidus: Ted Lapidus Its treatment brands, Méthode Jeanne Piaubert and Stendhal, launched 82 $ 131.6 MILLION pour Elle/Lui. Parfums Bugatti, Naf in the Middle East. Piaubert also entered travel retail stores in Hong 96 MILLION Naf (fragrance). Méthode Jeanne Kong and China. This year, the company hopes to sign another fragrance- 5.5% V. ’06 Piaubert, Stendhal (skin care). licensing agreement and take its treatment brands to the U.S. By early 2009, Groupe Jacques Bogart plans to launch a skin care brand made from natural and organic ingredients. Total 2007 sales for the company, which also holds interests in the luxury hotel market, were ¤105 million.

COREANA Artpia Cosmetics Co. Ltd., This year, Coréana celebrates its 20th birthday. On Jan. 1, it appointed COSMETICS Coréana Cosmetics TianJin Co. two new presidents—Yu Hack Soo, formerly vice president of Ltd., Covis Corp. Co. Ltd.: Coréana, management, and Kim Tae Jun, formerly vice president of sales and SEOUL Zain, Hanbangmin, Essential Entia, marketing. In 2007, revenues from skin care, fragrance and makeup Luxury Time Recovery, Bechui generated around 71%, 18% and 11%, respectively, of Coréana’s total 84 $ 127.2 MILLION Gahin, Pure Cells (skin care, sales. In September 2007, the company opened its fi rst independent day KRW 117.8 BILLION makeup). Nokdu (skin and hair spa, called Cellenique, in Seoul. Coréana entered the Chinese market, 0.9% V. ’06 care). Senite (bath care). Develo, in the cities of Dalian, Shanghai and Beijing, in June 2007. Coréana Locomotion (men’s toiletries). continued to revamp its brands by giving them new packaging and advertising last year.

PAGLIERI Paglieri, Felce Azzura, Felce Azzura Paglieri Profumi’s ceo Fabio Rossello said the company is expected to PROFUMI Natura, Il Bianco di Felce Azzura, register wholesale revenues of ¤100 million in 2008. He has also spoken Cleo, Labrosan (body, bath and skin publicly about plans to fl oat the major part of Paglieri on the Italian ALESSANDRIA, ITALY care, cosmetics). Selectiva (25%). stock exchange by 2011. Paglieri signed on Dolci Advertising to create new publicity for the fi rm. This April, a black-and-white ad campaign 85 $ 124.7 MILLION shot by Dirk Vogel came out. Its message is about naturalness, wellness 91 MILLION and simplicity, according to the company. Paglieri’s classic Felice 8% V. ’06 Azzura, which was fi rst introduced in 1923, has generated a sales increase of 85% over the past fi ve years, thanks to its rebranding, the fi rm said.

BONNE BELL , Smackers (face and lip While fl irting for two years with lines targeting more mature shoppers, LAKEWOOD, OHIO care, makeup). the company specializing in products for teen and tween girls refocused its strategy in 2007 on proven winners, such as the Smackers lip gloss brand. The fi rm created about 10% more makeup kits in 2007 than $ 123 MILLION (EST.) in 2006. Some 12% of Bonne Bell’s sales are generated outside of the 86 0.8% V. ’06 (EST.) U.S. Its products are sold in 24 countries, and the company said Asia is its key export focus in coming years. In 2007, Bonne Bell scaled back its presence in Toys ‘R’ Us brick-and-mortar stores but rang up strong revenues through the retailer’s e-commerce site. In 2006, Bonne Bell expanded its retail reach by 5,000 stores, including an additional 100 Ulta doors. It also grew its number of stockkeeping units in Claire’s. JSC FABERLIC Faberlic: Antourage, YouNova, In Russia, where direct sellers generate one-quarter of total beauty MOSCOW Beauty Cafe, Aquaftem, Neoskin, revenues, JSC Faberlic remains the only domestic door-to-door Aromage, Essencelle, Faberlic player with a sales network and product range that can match those Body, 8 Element, Travelling of international players. With more than 300,000 consultants, the $ 117.4 MILLION (EST.) Impressions, Haute Tradition, Gold, company covers all Russian regions. Its domestic market generates some RUBLES 3 BILLION (EST.) Rala, Aquamarin. 70% of total sales. Internationally, Faberlic is in 17 markets, mostly 87 3.5% V. ’06 (EST.) in Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Union states, but also in Germany. Its second-largest market is Ukraine.

48 WWD BEAUTY BIZ RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY COMPAGNIE Cartier: Pasha, Panthère, This September, Cartier will launch its fi rst men’s fragrance in a decade. Must, Santos, So Pretty, Called Roadster, also the name of a popular Cartier watch introduced in FINANCIERE Declaration, Eau de Cartier, Le 2001, it will be Cartier’s fi fth men’s scent. The house’s last fragrance for RICHEMONT Baiser du Dragon, Les Délices. men, Declaration, was launched in 1998. But its best-selling men’s scent GENEVA remains Pasha, a 1992 entry. Industry sources estimate Roadster will 88 generate fi rst-year retail sales in excess of $20 million. During its most $ 116.5 MILLION (EST.) recent fi scal year, ended March 31, Richemont’s total revenues rose ¤ ¤ 85 MILLION (EST.) 10% to 5.3 billion. Its operating profi ts soared 21% to 1.1 billion. 2.4% V. ’06 (EST.) Richemont does not plan to open any new markets with its beauty business this year.

PARFUMS DE BOD Man, Body Fantasies, Designer In early 2008, Parfums de Coeur launched a men’s fragrance called King, COEUR Imposters, , Wind targeting the Mexican consumer, which sources estimate will generate DARIEN, CONN. Song, Cotton Candy, Skin Musk, fi rst-year retail revenues of $3 million to $5 million. Parfums de Coeur’s Cachet, Aviance, Fresh White Musk, exports—to 30 markets, versus 28 last year—make up an estimated 15% New Musk for Men/Women. $ 115 MILLION of its sales. Parfums de Coeur is the U.S.’s second-largest mass market 89 fragrance and specialty bath product manufacturer and marketer, according 3% V. ’06 to Information Resources Inc. BOD, Body Fantasies and Designer Imposters are its best-selling brands.

DUKE STREET Accantia Health & Beauty: Simple After updating Simple’s product packaging and logo in 2007, Accantia CAPITAL (skin, hair and body care). Health & Beauty launched a £3 million TV advertising campaign in April with a tag line reading: “We believe in goodness.” Its best-selling LONDON lines include Simple Wipes, with sales of £17.9 million in 2007, and , which rang up £16.8 million. Simple said it is the 90 $ 114.6 MILLION U.K.’s third-largest facial care brand in value terms and the second £ 57.2 MILLION largest in units. Domestic sales represent 86.6% of its total business. Top 22% V. ’06 export markets are Ireland, Norway and Malaysia. Simple shuttered its fi rst spa in May, citing an uncertain economic climate. The company is on track to meet its 2007 objective to double sales within three years.

DEBORAH GROUP Deborah Italia, Deborah France, Deborah Group is undergoing a facelift this year by revamping its MILAN Deborah Iberica: Deborah Milano, display units. Some 2,000 of them started rolling out to Italian sales Debby, Rouge Baiser (cosmetics). points this June and another 10,000 will arrive in export markets in the Deborah Bioetyc (skin care). next two years. This September sees the relaunch of Debby, targeting $ 113.8 MILLION Deborah Nailspace (nail care). women around 18 with new packaging, inspired by high-tech devices, 91 83 MILLION Bioetyc Uomo (men’s skin care). and displays. In 2007, exports generated ¤29 million (33% of total FLAT V. ’06 Hydracolor (lip care). High Tech sales). Deborah Group entered Albania, Egypt, Syria and Indonesia last Cosmetics, Fisichella, Suomy Riders year. Revenues from Eastern Europe have tripled over the past three (fragrance). years. This March, Wal-Mart began selling Deborah Nailspace in 250 doors. In 2008, Deborah expects to enter India, Hong Kong, Mexico, Canada and Thailand.

PHYSICIANS Physicians Formula (color cosmetics). Physicians Formula, widely credited with ushering the mineral makeup FORMULA trend to the mass market, upped the ante with the January launch of Organic Wear, billed to be the fi rst certifi ed makeup line in the U.S. AZUSA, CALIF. Prices in the collection range from $7.95 for a lip item to $13.95 for a . Physicians Formula also extended its Mineral Wear $ 112 MILLION line and increased its U.S. distribution to approximately 27,000 92 17% V. ‘06 doors, fueling sales growth, according to the company. Its products are distributed in North America and Australia, and plans are afoot to expand distribution to Europe in the next three years. Currently, international sales account for 9% of Physicians Formula's revenues.

THE HAIN Jason Natural Products, Avalon The Hain Celestial Group’s personal care division’s revenues spike was Organics, Alba Botanica, Zia Natural attributed primarily to the integration of Avalon Natural Products, CELESTIAL GROUP Skincare, Earth’s Best, Queen which it bought in January 2007 from North Castle Partners for $120 MELVILLE, N.Y. Helene. million in cash. Avalon Natural Products includes Avalon Organics and Alba Botanica. Also spurring gains were sales from the Jason $ 110 MILLION Natural brand, which grew in the high single digits thanks to increases 93 96% V. ’06 in existing channels and a push into U.S. mass channels. Some 90% of Hain’s sales are generated in the U.S., but the aim is to double the size of its European and Asian businesses in the next two to three years.

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 49 RANK COMPANY + 2007 BEAUTY SALES SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS RECENT HISTORY MURAD Acne Complex, Age Reform, Murad attributes its double-digit sales growth to the success of its EL SEGUNDO, CALIF. Age-Proof Suncare, Body Care, cross-channel marketing strategy. After doubling its business over Environmental Shield, Internal the past three years, it plans to quadruple revenues generated in its 38 Skincare, Murad Man, Murad international markets to 20% of sales in the next three years. In the $ 110 MILLION (EST.) Professional, Redness Therapy, U.S., Murad derives 40% of its revenues from direct-sales channels, 30% 10% V. ’06 (EST.) Resurgence, Vitalic. from professional channels and 30% from national chains. Murad, a 93 family-owned company, is not currently seeking any investors or partners. Murad’s direct-sales business got a boost earlier this year thanks to a TV infomercial with actresses Joan Lunden and Josie Bissett.

GROUPE GUINOT Guinot, Mary Cohr (skin care). Groupe Guinot said it is accelerating the international expansion of its PARIS Masters Colors (cosmetics). franchised Guinot and Mary Cohr institutes. It recently opened spaces in Switzerland, Latvia and Japan. Guinot and Mary Cohr are sold in 17,000 salons in 72 countries, of which some 2,500 are in France and 2,800 in $ 104.9 MILLION the U.S. Just under half of its 2007 sales were generated in France, with a 76.5 MILLION further 17% coming from the rest of Europe; 17% from Africa; 11% from 95 9.3% V. ’06 the U.S., and 7% from Asia. Key launches for the Guinot brand include the Soin Liftosome cream. For Mary Cohr, Guinot introduced the Vital Essences line of fi ve facial in November 2007.

IWP Vivalis: Constance Carroll IWP’s sales were negatively impacted by the disposal of its Dutch business (cosmetics, skin care). Collection Royal Sanders, which includes the brands Proset, Odorex, Fresh Up, Van INTERNATIONAL 2000, MeMeMe (cosmetics). Fine Gils and Melkmeisje, in June 2007. IWP sold the company to focus on its MANCHESTER, U.K. Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd.: U.K.-based beauty business Vivalis and its Polish retailing business Polbita. Taylor of London, Tweed, Panache, Terms were not disclosed. This April, IWP folded Fine Fragrances & 96 $ 101 MILLION (EST.) Lace, Chique (fragrance). Batiste, Cosmetics Ltd. into Vivalis. For the fi scal year ended March 31, Vivalis 74 MILLION (EST.) Jerome Russell (hair care). Fade Out posted 9% sales growth on a like-for-like basis. Collection 2000, with a 15% 28.2% V. ’06 (EST.) (skin care). sales jump, generated 50% of total revenues in 2007.

MANA PRODUCTS Mana: Your Name Professional Mana Products said it experienced continued double-digit sales growth LONG ISLAND CITY, Brands (private label cosmetics, in its contract-sales division as more wholesalers turned to outsourcing. N.Y. skin care). Black Opal (makeup). On its branded side, gains were fueled particularly by Mana’s Profound Profound Beauty (professional hair Beauty professional hair care line, designed to allow stylists to customize care). their customers’ hair care regimen according to need. Black Opal 96 $ 101 MILLION (EST.) continued aggressively growing its presence in beauty supply stores, which 11% V. ’06 (EST.) represented more than 40% of Mana’s business in 2007. Your Name Professional Brands has found renewed interest with distributors, thanks to the exit of a number of multinational players from the private label cosmetics market, according to Mana. INVESTINDUSTRIAL Morris Profumi: Ferrari, La Perla, This May, Perfume Holdings, a subsidiary of midmarket buyout fund MILAN Grigioperla, Sergio Tacchini, Breil Investindustrial, acquired a 77% stake in Selective Beauty for an undisclosed Milano, Henri Chenot, Krizia, sum. In December 2007, Investindustrial acquired Atkinsons, an Anglo- Fiorucci (fragrance). Atkinsons Italian bath, body and skin care manufacturer, from Procter & Gamble for $ 100 MILLION (fragrance, skin and body care). I ¤20 million. Until then, Investindustrial’s only beauty holding was Morris 73 MILLION Coloniali, Exotic Flavours (bath and Profumi, which it snapped up from Henkel Group in February 2007 for an 98 18% V. ‘06 body care). Segreti Mediterranei undisclosed sum. Morris Profumi is based in Parma, Italy, has 144 employees (skin care). and sells products in 2,500 Italian doors. Its products are also sold in 72 countries abroad. Exports account for 54% of Morris Profumi’s total revenues, up 9.6% on-year. FRIBAD COSMETICS Sans Soucis (skin and body care, This January, family-owned Fribad Cosmetics Group was sold to Latvia’s makeup). Futuresse (skin and body Kolonna Group. Terms were not disclosed. Per Åkerlund replaced Axel GROUP care). Biodroga Systems (skin, Hamann as ceo this April. In 2007, Fribad’s business picked up after a BADEN-BADEN, body and men’s skin care). Bogner strategic regrouping, including the Sans Soucis brand being targeted at “key GERMANY Perfumes, Basics (fragrance). accounts” and removed from some 500 doors deemed unprofi table. Fribad 99 took over the Bogner fragrance license from P&G at yearend. Terms were $ 97.3 MILLION not disclosed. Futuresse is selling well abroad, with Hong Kong, Spain and 71 MILLION Germany taking the lead. Some 70% of Fribad’s sales are generated from 18% V. ’06 exports to more than 40 countries. Its products are sold in approximately 1,700 doors domestically. ABLE C&C Missha (cosmetics). An increase in production prices, plus renovations of store interiors SEOUL and product packaging contributed to a sizable drop in the company’s sales last year, it said. On the upside, revenues from Missha M Perfect Cover BB Cream have been brisk since its launch in October 2007. $ 84.7 MILLION Missha introduced its products in 85 Don Quijote Co. stores and in KRW 78.46 BILLION 60 Matsumo Kiyosi drugstores in Japan. Missha products are available 100 16.3% V. ’06 in 284 locations in South Korea, as well as in 287 stores in 17 other countries. Missha plans to open freestanding stores in the United Arab Emirates and Saudi Arabia this August.

50 WWD BEAUTY BIZ capture the essence

COSMEETING SPA & INSTITUT PHARMAMEETING 5 .6 .7 Oct. 2008

The 360° European event on beauty and wellness Re-Source Keller ! - © Evi CREATIVE Paris Nord Villepinte INGREDIENTS 6 .7 .8 Oct. 2008 www.beyondbeautyparis.com WORDS BY JENNY B. FINE PHOTOGRAPHED BY GUY AROCH

VIVA LA PERSONALITY! POPPY DELEVINGNE AND THE NEW CROP OF SCENEMAKERS IS PROVING THAT WORKING HARD AND PLAYING HARD ARE VERY ATTRACTIVE BRAND PROPOSITIONS INDEED.

52 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

54 WWD BEAUTY BIZ At left: fl oral bikini by Araks. This page: black maillot by OMO Norma Kamali.

Poppy Delevingne lives to love. “I love modeling,” beauty companies to promote their wares as brand ment or design. They’re infl uencing pop culture.” says the London-born New York-based beauty. ambassadors. They’re well-born, well-educated In addition to Delevingne, the new crop of go-to “Adore it. I love the traveling, the people I meet, and well-connected—Delevingne, for example, at- girls includes Harley Viera-Newton, a 19-year-old the artistic side to it. I love fashion. I love wear- tended a posh British boarding school, stayed in the NYU student (she’s studying Egyptology)-slash-DJ ing clothes. Duchess of York’s apartment when she fi rst came to who has been named Dior Beauty’s in-house DJ; “I love the electric atmosphere of New York,” New York and is one of Tatler magazine’s 10 most Julia Restoin Roitfeld, the daughter of French Vogue she continues. “I love that people are always up for eligible girls in the world. editor Carine, who oversees her own art direct- anything. I love the quirky restaurants. I love the “These girls have different backgrounds and ing company when she isn’t starring in Tom Ford’s shopping. I love the little vintage-y places in the unique personalities,” says Peter Knell, a manager at fragrance ads, and Leigh Lezark, whose role as Village. I love Bleecker Street. I love Barneys— IMG Models. “Each has in some way been behind a founding member of the Misshapes has morphed it’s my favorite department store. And I love how movement, be it a style movement, a cultural move- into that of overall tastemaker. There’s also Lydia cheap everything here is at the moment. I can’t buy Hearst, the publishing heiress/model/actress/Page anything in London ever again. Six magazine columnist; Maggie Betts, daughter of “I love the roof at Soho House on the weekends developer Roland Betts and a staple in the pages of and I love the boathouse at Central Park,” she adds, “YOU CAN BUY FASHION Vogue; Vanessa Traina, daughter of Danielle Steele, the words tumbling out. “My sister and I rowed BUT YOU CAN’T BUY STYLE,” fashion muse to young designers and French Vogue around the lake and then had lunch there. Heaven.” intern, and Byrdie Bell, a Chicago-born socialite- The 22-year-old’s natural-born ebullience has SAYS ELITE’S RICHARD turned-actress. propelled her to the front of the pack of a new breed HABBERLY, “AND THESE “The difference between models, celebrities of scenemakers, girls who are as personable as they GIRLS PERSONIFY THAT.” and these girls is that these are people the fashion are beautiful, who work as hard as they play and industry can take to heart,” says Richard Habberly, who are increasingly being tapped by fashion and who runs the Elite + division of Elite Models.

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 55 Dress by Sass and Bide.

56 WWD BEAUTY BIZ “IN TIMES LIKE THIS, THINGS SPLIT,” SAYS “Celebrities are created by stylemakers like [stylist] VOGUE’S SARAH BROWN. Rachel Zoe. We know they’re manmade creations. Models are usually faceless, a blank canvas that “ON THE ONE HAND, you paint on. There’s always a need for a girl who is a style icon, who puts herself together really well. These girls are fun, effervescent and energiz- WE’RE LOOKING FOR ing. You can buy fashion but you can’t buy style and these girls personify that. SOMETHING THAT’S REAL. “They personify the lifestyle of luxury brands without being too manufactured because they’re ON THE OTHER, WE’RE luxury brands themselves,” continues Habberly. “They aren’t put together by stylists, hairdressers, LOOKING FOR ESCAPISM.” makeup artists. They’re not creations. They created themselves.” Key to their appeal is that they don’t allow themselves to be defi ned by their good looks or their tony backgrounds. They, like us, work. “In times like this, things split. On the one hand, we’re looking for something that’s real, and on the other, we’re looking for escapism,” says Sarah Brown, beauty director of Vogue. “There’s a lot of respect for people who have real achievements and who work hard. People are looking for some sort of relatability—sure, you might have better clothes, but you work hard and there’s a balancing act in your life, too.” Brown also notes that the appeal of the perfectly groomed uptown socialite as brand ambassador seems to be on the wane in favor of a hipper, cooler esthetic. Delevingne may sport long blonde tresses like Park Avenue princess Tinsley Mortimer and be a brand ambassador for Versace, but her personal style can best be described as eclectic. “The way I dress depends on the way I feel when I wake up in the morning,” she says. “In my closet, there’s a lot of bright color going on, a lot of sparkle, a lot of bohemian stuff and bits of edginess like black pat- ent leather boots.” While the Mortimers of the world haven’t fallen by the wayside—she is still very active in her capacity as Dior beauty ambassador—forward- looking brands are adding edgier girls too. Take Viera-Newton, who joins Mortimer in the Dior lineup this month. “Harley has cultivated this edgy, eclectic downtown style,” says Pamela Baxter, president and chief executive offi cer of LVMH Perfumes and Cosmetics NA and president of Christian Dior Inc. “She’s gorgeous and smart and also really well-rounded. She’s out and about, socializing, meeting people, talking about our products. It’s a hands-on approach.” Delevingne herself neatly defi es classifi ca- tion into traditional social divides. She’s as apt to be found at a dinner party at socialite Marjorie Gubelmann’s Upper East Side town house as she is downtown at Beatrice Inn. And though her feet are fi rmly planted in the London/New York social axis, she’s keen to conquer the Hollywood scene too. She recently wrapped fi lming on Perfect, a short fi lm about a model who’s on a path of self-destruction, and plans to pursue acting lessons this fall. “It was very intense and when we fi nished fi lming, I felt like I had achieved something,” says Delevingne of the experience. It’s a feeling she thrives on—and one that makes her emblematic of Hair by Wesley O’Meara at The Wall Group. the bright young things dominating the scene now. Makeup by Katey Denno at The Wall Group. “In London, ‘It’ girls tend to be girls who don’t Styling by Masha Orlov at CXA. work and who just go out. In New York, it’s differ- Set styling by Stephen Caputo at Michele ent. I do work, very hard. I do go out and yes I do Filomeno. Produced by Heather Robbins at wear clothes for designers, but I work just as hard The Photo Department. Photographed at as I play. And I love it.” Hotel Gansevoort, New York. WWD BEAUTY BIZ 57 RAISING THE FORGET SURVIVAL. FRAGRANCE MARKETERS ARE AIMING TOWARD NOTHING LESS THAN WORLD DOMINATION WITH THEIR UPCOMING FALL LAUNCHES. STAKES

BY MOLLY PRIOR PHOTOGRAPHED BY MITCHELL FEINBERG Desperate times apparently call for desperate measures. the consumer wants if she’s buying anything.” After years of anemic growth in the fragrance category, marketers To that end, Coty has no fewer than six major launches scheduled are responding to the toughest economic conditions in two decades for the season, including entries from Calvin Klein, Gwen Stefani, with a bombardment of launches that make the barrage of years past Jennifer Lopez, Vera Wang, Playboy, Tim McGraw, Karl Lagerfeld seem like a slow trickle. and David and Victoria Beckham. And that’s not even counting fl ank- One launch is mightier than the next: The industry has gone global ers from Coty brands like Davidoff, Kenneth Cole and Sarah Jessica in its ambitions for the second half of the year, with one fragrance after Parker. another sporting gargantuan sales projections and promotional budgets “Even in tough economic times,” says Cankes, “business has to go to match. on.” Among the big guns: Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme and Lancôme The rallying cry comes at a time when sales in the category are Magnifi que, each of which is expected to ring up $200 million glob- more challenged than ever before. Tally up the fi gures from the top 10 ally; Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men, $185 million; Calvin Klein launches and theoretically the industry is looking to add $1 billion in Secret Obsession, $120 million, and Ralph Lauren Notorious, $100 new sales to the category—a far-fetched proposition. In 2007, prestige million. Ready to nip at their heels are Estée Lauder Sensuous with fragrance sales in the U.S. dipped 1 percent to $2.94 billion. The ane- a sales goal of nearly $100 million; Jean Paul Gaultier Ma Dame, $77 mic showing has led many fi rms to abandon the fl anker-led strategies million; Hilfi ger by Tommy Hilfi ger and Inspire by Christina Aguilera, of the recent past for bold new masterbrands. $50 million each; The Essence of Porsche Design, $40 million; Fancy To have a fi ghting chance this season, companies have amassed siz- Jessica Simpson, $35 million, and Gwen Stefani Harajuku Lovers, $30 able war chests, upward of $40 million in some cases—which is also million. (Warning: Launch list may cause readers to experience dizzi- the fi gure a new women’s scent must reap if it’s to earn a spot in the ness and shortness of breath.) That’s not to mention Shiseido’s Zen, top 10 in the U.S., according to Karen Grant, global beauty industry Groupe Clarins’ David Yurman, Tom Ford’s White Patchouli and a analyst at The NPD Group. (New men’s scents have to earn more than slew of news from Coty, as well as luxe niche entries from Annick $20 million.) The bar proved too high last year on the women’s side, as Goutal, Jo Malone, Lalique, Van Cleef and Arpels, Creed, Bond No. no new entries broke the Top 10. 9 and Bulgari. This year, the stakes are as big as the budgets. “With all the power “They’ve got to do this,” says Wendy Liebmann, co-founder and behind the category, if we don’t see growth this year I don’t know when chief executive of WSL Strategic Retail, of the deluge of scents this we are going to see it,” says Grant, adding that NPD has found that season. “If you don’t have something new and fabulous, especially in since 2003 there are two million fewer men and women wearing fra- the fragrance department, it will be easy for [consumers] to say, ‘I al- grance. “They are simply not engaged in the category,” she says. ready have some of that.’” The shift to megalaunches is more than a clarion call to consumers, Of newness at department store fragrance counters, Bob Cankes, however. It also represents a bid to rekindle retailers’ fondness for fra- president of Coty Prestige, North America, says, “It appears that’s what grance, which some manufacturers suggest has dwindled in recent years

58 WWD BEAUTY BIZ WWD BEAUTY BIZ 59 as sales have stalled. While newness abounds—by last count, there were be the most fabulous red lipstick, the cutest white T-shirt and the most about 150 fragrances slated for fall—retailers aren’t simply looking for intoxicating fragrance.” How do you make such an impression? “You volume. They want blockbusters, a savior in a bottle to prove the worth have to disrupt their routine,” responds Gabai-Pinsky. of the entire category. Gabai-Pinsky and her team plan to rouse the jaded this fall with “The prestige fragrance business hasn’t grown in 15 years,” says Tommy Hilfi ger’s Hilfi ger. The launch employs motorcycle stunts per- Howard Kreitzman, vice president of cosmetics and fragrances at formed in key cities and in-store appearances by Hilfi ger himself and Bloomingdale’s. “In 1990, it was just a tick over $3 billion.” Referring his scent’s brooding, blonde model Tommy Dunn. In the print and to the shortened new-product life cycle and event-driven nature of TV ad imagery, shot on location in Coyote Lake in Barstow, Calif., fragrance sales, he continues, “It’s become a three-minute business Dunn blasts his motorcycle through the dry desert dressed impeccably of Mother’s Day and Father’s Day. The business over the past several in a suit and tie. Marketing efforts will direct men to enter a sweep- years has been progressively more diffi cult to get because fragrance is stakes for a chance to win a motorcycle, just one element of the turbo- increasingly competing with all sorts of gift items and accessories, like powered advertising and promotions campaign said to be in the $20 sunglasses.” million range. “Fragrance, in a tough economy, is the most discretionary and the Groupe Clarins, meanwhile, is hoping to tap into a new audience most vulnerable [category] in a challenging environment like this,” with its David Yurman scent, a collaboration with the upscale jeweler. echoes Lyn Kirby, president and ceo of Ulta. To protect business from The gold cap of the bottle (which has been hand-polished three times) eroding during tough times, she says the infl ux of newness planned for is designed to evoke Yurman’s iconic Cable Collection of jewelry, while fall is needed. By launching bigger and more head-turning concepts, the neck of the bottle is a replica of David Yurman’s wedding band. she adds, “The [category] is spot-on.” The company will also deploy a high-end sampling program, complete Success in the second half of the year is going to require a hands-on with black cord and silver bracelets infused with the scent and minia- approach, says Kreitzman. “The growth we’re going to get is growth ture pump sprays and jars of the body cream. that we manage our way to,” he says, specifi cally referring to the wom- Jean Paul Gaultier revived an old tradition (rampant when there en’s business. With that goal in mind, Bloomingdale’s is increasing its were fewer than 20 new launches a year) by hosting a lavish gala to online marketing efforts and event calendar. In early July, for example, usher in its newest, Ma Dame. The designer and his beauty license Estée Lauder corralled its four Sensuous spokesmodels—Gwyneth holder Beauté Prestige International hosted 850 guests at Villa Paltrow, Elizabeth Hurley, Carolyn Murphy and Hilary Rhoda—for a Eugenie, located in Paris’ Marais district. The evening was hosted by personal appearance at the retailer’s 59th Street fl agship in Manhattan. Gaultier and model , who stars in the fragrance’s ads. Their visit reportedly generated more than $45,000 in retail sales in While different in the forms they take, Hilfi ger’s death-defying one hour. motorcycle stunts, David Yurman’s chic sampling vehicles and Ma Still, it’s going to take more than four of the world’s most beautiful Dame’s lavish Paris gala are all aimed at awakening a seemingly com- women to buoy sales. A number of fragrance fi rms charge that some placent consumer. retailers have starved fragrance counters by drastically cutting inventory Says Coty’s Cankes, creativity and innovation levels to speed inventory turns. Less product hinders in-store presenta- can nab the attention of even the most preoccupied “THE PRESTIGE tion, and worse, increases out-of-stocks, say manufacturers. consumer. Case in point: the steamy ad campaign for FRAGRANCE BUSINESS It’s also more challenging to get retailers to take on ancillary items, Calvin Klein Secret Obsession, which is expected to HASN’T GROWN like lotions and bath gels. Don Loftus, president and ceo of P&G yield $120 million in worldwide fi rst-year retail sales. Prestige Products in the U.S., recalls when he entered the business in In the ads, actress Eva Mendes brazenly shows plenty IN 15 YEARS....IT’S 1977 about 15 bottles graced the fragrance bar, each with an extensive of skin and talks about having a sexy secret. Industry BECOME A THREE- array of ancillary items. “Some retailers have cut the stock so dramati- sources estimate the scent’s advertising and promo- MINUTE BUSINESS cally it looks like a going-out-of-business sale,” says Loftus, who’s quick tional budget to be $50 million globally, with as much OF MOTHER’S DAY to add other stores are beautifully merchandised and fully stocked. as $25 million to be spent in the U.S. Kreitzman, well aware of the pinch of inventory cuts, declares, “We There is a historical precedent for the success of AND FATHER’S want to make sure we’re properly stocked. You can’t turn your way to luxury fragrances during rough economic times. “Jean DAY....THE GROWTH success. You have to sell your way to success.” Patou created Joy for his couture clients during the WE’RE GOING TO GET Despite their differences, manufacturers and retailers alike are hop- Great Depression,” says P&G’s Loftus. “You may not IS THE GROWTH WE ing newness will motivate consumers and plan to announce their en- necessarily be buying as many designer dresses, but tries with a fl urry of activity, including motorcycle stunts, lavish galas you can still pamper yourself with a fragrance. Great MANAGE OUR WAY TO.” and celebrity appearances. But will the promotional din be loud enough fragrances from great brands are still growing despite a for shoppers to turn their ears from the steady broadcast of negative challenging economy exactly for this reason.” news? P&G’s lineup for fall includes Jeanne Lanvin, Gucci by Gucci Pour Fragrance makers say they can offer an olfactory escape in the Homme and Inspire by Christina Aguilera, which industry sources gloom—one that generally costs two fi gures, not four or fi ve like many forecast could reap $80 million in fi rst-year retail sales worldwide and luxury goods. “The consistency of the market is not systematically is based on a young fresh version of tuberose and freesia. connected to the economy,” says Philippe Benacin, chairman and ceo Like Coty, Elizabeth Arden is tapping into the power of celebrity of Inter Parfums SA, the maker of Burberry, among others. To break to fuel sales with an entry for Jay Z’s Rocawear label called Rocawear through the gloom, Benacin says the trick is to offer something dif- 91X. “You have to activate an audience to get them into the store,” says ferent. Ron Rolleston, executive vice president of global fragrance marketing. The company gave the stodgy British brand Burberry a young, edgy “You have to create awareness before the launch takes place.” twist with Burberry The Beat, a women’s scent introduced in March He notes fragrance launches are most successful when they zero in 2008, which is expected to account for 20 percent of Burberry’s fra- on a specifi c consumer group. To that end, 9IX courts a young, urban grance sales. (Overall, the brand had sales of roughly $210 million in consumer. “We work with the brands’ core constituency to create im- 2007.) Inter Parfums has equally high expectations for the fall launch agery that emotionally connects with those consumers,” says Rolleston. of The Beat for Men, which it forecasts will lift Burberry’s fragrance Arden met with Jay Z to develop the fragrance’s concept and name. In sales by 10 percent this year, and account for 20 percent of the brand’s addition to ads in hip-hop magazines like Vibe, Giant and XXL, the scent business in its fi rst year on counter. Rocawear scent will be featured on rocawear.com and play off of the Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, president of Aramis and Designer brand’s current “We Will Not Lose” campaign. Fragrances, agrees that the stock market and fragrance sales can be The idea is to put the scent in consumers hands, whether they walk mutually exclusive. “Nobody needs another red lipstick or white T-shirt into a retail store, fl ip through a magazine or open a new DVD. And or new fragrance,” she says. “But we’re in the business of want, not in in this environment, everyone agrees, consumers need every ounce of the business of need.” To cement a purchase, she continues, “It has to encouragement out there.

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 61 LAST CALL

SCARPE 02 WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION BEHIND CANCER VIXEN? M.M.: When I fi rst started dating my husband, Silvano [Marchetto, the restaurateur behind Da Silvano], DIEM I would be having dinner with him 01 Marchetto in her home offi ce. 02 One of the Cancer 01 and women would throw themselves Vixen kits she created for C.O. at him. I started writing a love story Bigelow. 03 A self-portrait. about what happens when you date someone like him. When I was di- agnosed with breast cancer, Glamour magazine asked me to write about it, HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE so it seemed natural to fold every- THE NEW YORK LOOK? thing in, because Cancer Vixen really M.M.: More than anything, it’s is a love story and a story of survival. confi dence. Confi dence and a keen WAS WRITING A CATHARTIC appreciation or obsession with any- PROCESS? thing and everything of the moment M.M.: Yes. There’s a term for that’s hot. New York women are it—objective journaling. Instead of uberstylish. internalizing it, you’re externalizing HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE it and putting it down on paper. That YOUR STYLE? process really helped. M.M.: Shoe-focused. I dress from the HOW DID THE NAME COME feet up. It’s kinda like, “I want to wear ABOUT? those shoes, what goes with them?” M.M.: I was walking down Hud- IF YOU COULD CHANGE ONE son River Park with my friend, the THING IN THE WORLD, WHAT writer Bob Morris, who asked me WOULD IT BE? Cartoonist and self-described shoe addict Marisa what I was going to call the Glam- M.M.: We get in trouble when we Acocella Marchetto is renowned for humorously our piece. “Breast Case Scenario” compare what people have against was my working title and he said, each other. That’s where jealousy chronicling the mores of a certain sector of New York “That’s the worst thing I’ve ever and envy and resentment come from. society—her Gucci Gucci Goo cartoon of a woman heard in my life.” At the time, I was Also, a cure for cancer wouldn’t be so wearing sweats and ratty sneakers damn bad, would it? cooing over a baby pram is a classic. That same incisive and had dirty hair and was kind of DO YOU HAVE A MOTTO? wit was brought to bear on her triumph over breast cancer, depressed. He said, “You look like a M.M.: My motto is “I always make victim; where’s my vixen? So put on the right decision because I am a a battle she chronicles in the best-selling graphic novel your 5-inch heels, and call it Cancer woman of vision.” Usually I’m like, Cancer Vixen. Marchetto recently collaborated with C. Vixen!” He was right. My mother is “Oh my God, what am I gonna do a shoe designer, and for me, shoes now?” Sometimes I can’t see the for- O. Bigelow proprietor Ian Ginsberg on a limited edition are all about empowerment. I wore est for the trees kind of thing, so this collection of Cancer Vixen body products, launching in my 5-inch heels to chemotherapy, a motto is reassuring to me. different pair every time. WHAT DID SURVIVING CAN- October, adorned with her illustrations. Bigelow will donate HOW DO YOU DEFINE BEAUTY? CER TEACH YOU? $250,000 to the Breast Cancer Research Fund. Here, M.M.: Beauty is defi ned by feeling M.M.: I became really conscious of great about yourself. It’s about feeling time and how we’re only here for a Marchetto on her transformation from victim to victory. powerful and strong and healthy. I short moment, basically a blip, and used to say I was a fashion victim, we should make the most of it and BY JENNY B. FINE PHOTOGRAPHED BY TALAYA CENTENO now I call myself a fashion victor. A not stress out over the superfi cial positive attitude is more likely to keep stupid stuff, the “S.S.S.” as I call it. 03 your immune system strong, and the Also, to try and live every mo- stronger your immune system is, the ment being conscious of what it is healthier you’ll be. For me, shoes are a you’re doing and that what you say better medicine than anything. to somebody could have repercus- HOW DO YOU DEFINE sions—to try and live consciously, CREATIVITY? not fashion-consciously. M.M.: It’s tapping into that energy HIGH MAINTENANCE OR LOW? that is out there. I like to say you let M.M.: Because I take better care of it come to you, but there’s nothing myself, probably high maintenance. like having a gun to your head to fi n- If you’re not taking care of yourself, ish something. So I think it’s a little you’re not respecting yourself. High bit of both, letting the ideas come to maintenance is a sign of self-esteem. you and then having the added pres- But, you don’t have to be a bitch

sure of the pistol to the temple. about it, either. STILL LIFE PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE

62 WWD BEAUTY BIZ ®

Über-sophisticated “Stem-Cell” creams not only reduce the appearance of fine lines, deep lines and other age-related “Stem Cells” imperfections, these high-tech emulsions make your skin look smoother, tighter, The Future of Skin Rejuvenation healthier... in other words younger... really younger.

AMATOKIN® By Tiffany Strobel

If you haven’t heard that “Stem-Cell” technology is revolutionizing skin care, you’re probably one of those people who still thinks her supermarket moisturizer is just as good as the “expensive stuff.” Wake up! These new “Stem-Cell” emulsions are changing everything. They actually “rejuvenate” your skin by “awakening” your body’s own reservoir of undifferentiated stem cells. That’s why virtually every major cosmetic manufacturer is rushing to tap into this new stem-cell technology. Here’s what Dr. Richard Wells, Ph.D., told me: “Cosmetic chemists around the globe are burning the midnight oil for one simple reason: As we age, stem-cell utilization for skin repair is less efficient. However, the potential that nature has given us to access these endogenous stem-cell reservoirs for skin rejuvenation is quite remarkable. That’s why science is seeking to activate the potential of our inherent adult stem-cell reservoirs. In so doing, the practi- cal use of stem-cell technology can provide the consumer with a topical, anti-aging cosmetic formula that simply makes everyone look years younger.” What does this mean in plain English? Stem cells are hot... really, really hot. Imagine new, fresh, “perfect” skin cells, undamaged by age, sun or pollution. Right now the winner in the race to incorporate this new stem-cell technology (and some would say the only serious player in the “Stem-Cell” arena) is Amatokin® from Voss Laboratories.® After its incredible European launch (which caused a near riot at Sephora’s fla gship Champs Élysées boutique in Paris), Amatokin has finally arrived on U.S. shores and is selling out as fast as they can get it on the shelf (maybe because Amatokin is getting all the buzz in the “celebrity” mags). Being a beauty editor, I was lucky enough to try Amatokin, and, frankly, I love it. Available at Bloomingdale’s, Sephora stores worldwide, Henri Bendel, Von Maur, Holt Renfrew, and Saks Fifth Avenue, or directly from Voss Laboratories at 1-800-292-7679 Amatokin.com or by calling 1-800-292-7679. Amatokin.com P.S. I don’t know about you girls, but I’m ready for something new! See you at the cosmetic counter. All trademarks are the property of their respective companies. ©2008 All Rights Reserved BR12129