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A Week in Angoon and a Month of Reflection on Xutsnoowú Aaní

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A Week in Angoon and a Month of Reflection on Xutsnoowú Aaní A WEEK IN ANGOON AND A MONTH OF REFLECTION ON XUTSNOOWÚ AANÍ Richard Carstensen Discovery Southeast, Juneau for: Angoon Community Association & USFS Summer, 2012 2 • A week in Angoon CONTENTS Navigating this NAVIGATING THIS DIGITAL JOURNAL ..................................................................... 2 digital journal PLACE-NAME REVOLUTION ......................................................................................3 Try reading this journal on the couch with your iPad in INTRODUCTION ....................................................................................4 Goodreader, or an Android tablet DAILY JOURNAL ..................................................................................5 in ezPDF reader. Colors are spectacular. Beats paper (>$100 20120814 JUNEAU TO ANGOON ................................................................................5 to print in color!), or sitting at a ALASKA SHOREZONE ...........................................................................................19 computer for 6 hours. Annotate your copy with yellow stickies 20120815 EEY TLIEN—XUNYÉI (KOOTZNAHOO‑MITCHELL) ............................ 21 using voice recognition. PLACE NAMES: ANGOON TIDAL LABYRINTH ..................................................... 21 • This pdf is “bookmarked.” On your tablet/smartphone, tap 20120816 KANALKU LAKE ........................................................................................33 any of the chapters in Contents INGNS (IMPORTANT NATIVE GUY NAMES) ........................................................... 41 (right) to jump there, or bring up your Outlines navigator. On 20120817 WANKAGEEY (FAVORITE BAY) ............................................................... 51 a computer in Acrobat, navigate from the bookmarks tab (left EAGLE CARCASSES .................................................................................................53 side of Acrobat window) or ISOSTACY IN XUTSNOOWÚ AANÍ ........................................................................... 62 Contents. To return, use the tablet’s or button, or in 20120818 DOWN DAY; KILLISNOO ISLAND ............................................................ 63 Acrobat, the left-arrow icon 1898: ALBATROSS AT KILLISNOO .......................................................................... 67 (from keyboard, alt+backarrow). Parts of the journal have 2-page 20120819 NALTÓOSHGÁN (WHITEWATER BAY) ................................................... 71 panoramas and are best viewed NALTÓOSHGÁN RETAKE .........................................................................................76 in facing-pages mode. (This feature is not available on tablet SOUTHERN ADMIRALTY VOLCANICS.................................................................... 83 programs I’m familiar with.) TROPHIES FROM HAMMERED GEMS .................................................................... 89 • If any of these tools are not currently on your Acrobat header, TLINGIT NAMES, ICE AGES ...................................................................................108 pull down tools>customize 20120820 TSAAGWÁA GEEYÍ (SALT LAKE) .......................................................... 110 toolbars, and check them. Another essential Acrobat tool, 20120821 GPS TRAINING ........................................................................................125 ,- opens the contextual search 20120821 DEEP & SHALLOW HISTORIES OF ANGOON ................................... 129 window, showing search-word in context of its sentences. ANGOON CLAN HOUSES........................................................................................131 • ArcMap convention for EARLY VISITORS TO ANGOON ............................................................... 146 dates: 20120814 = August 14th, 2012. 20120821 PEARL TO JUNEAU ...............................................................................155 • Animals or sign thereof are noted in bold. Common names APPENDICES .....................................................................................161 of plants generally follow Pojar & 1 ISLAND & WATERSHED CONTEXT .................................................................... 161 MacKinnon (1994). A partial plant 2 INFLUENCES ON FOREST PRODUCTIVITY ..................................................... 162 list with botanical names is in the Appendices. 3 BEDROCK GEOLOGY ...........................................................................................164 Cover photo: View east across 4 MINING, LOGGING & FIRE ...................................................................................165 Long Island from Kootznahoo Inlet. Photo 0814, first day of our visit, on 5 LATHRAM & WOLFE ............................................................................................166 approach to float-plane dock. 6 WETLANDS.............................................................................................................169 7 RETAKES PROJECT .............................................................................................170 8 GROUND-TRUTHING TECHNOLOGY FOR FIELD & OFFICE ......................... 172 9 BUSHWACKING DIFFICULTY SCALE ................................................................ 173 10 ADMIRALTY MAMMALS .....................................................................................175 11 EAGLE-RAVEN STAFFS TO CENTRAL COUNCIL .......................................... 176 12 WHITEWATER BINDWEED PULL ...................................................................... 176 13 BASKETRY AND TENURE ..................................................................................177 14 INSIGHTS FROM INTERIOR ...............................................................................178 15 PLANT CODES .....................................................................................................179 16 REFERENCES ......................................................................................................179 17 TLINGIT PLACE NAMES .....................................................................................181 [email protected] 3 Reference map for places we ground-truthed during this August, 2012 visit. “0814” = August 14th, etc. Place-name revolution And maybe, neither are true. Consider this quote from For 3 years I’ve looked forward to publication of Harold Jacobs, in a chapter called Xoodzidaa Kwáan; Thornton & Martin’s Haa L’éelk’w Hás Aani Saax’ú: Our inhabitants of the burning wood fort. (Hope & Thornton, grandparents’ names on the land, finally released in eds, 2000). Note that x and x are pronounced differently: spring, 2012 (henceforth T&M12). “The name Xootsnoowú (“Brown Bear Fort”) is Tlingit names are so much more sometimes wrongly interpreted as the name interesting and tenured than for Angoon Kwáan, this having been done by IWGNs (important white guy people who, my informants have told me, ‘Do not have a great command of the language or names), that I’m beginning to use the history of the area.’ them whenever possible, followed by IWGNs where they belong, in Actually, the name comes from xoodzi, (which parentheses.1 is burning wood or charred remains) not xoots “Admiralty Island” is of course (brown bear). This confusion with xoots has an IWGN on steroids, named for led to the misnomer, however widely accepted it may be, that the name of the territory not one but a whole slew of alpha means ‘Brown Bears’ Fort.’ It is in fact the caucasians. The Tlingit name would Burning Wood Fort. Xootsnoowú, however, be far preferable. But therein is a descriptive name that is often applied to lies confusion. One commonly Admiralty Island.” hears that Xootsnoowú means That last sentence, unfortunately, “brown bear fort.” But whose fort? leaves room for 2 interpretations: 1) Someone recently told me—in Xootsnoowú is wrong for the kwáan and reference to Angoon’s peninsula—it its Chatham-centered territory but OK actually means not fortress of the as island name. 2) Even as island name, bears but against the bears. although “often applied,” it’s wrong. 1 In future smart-pdf versions of these digital journals for Which did Jacobs mean? I guess, until I know, I’m stuck tablet-reading, tapping on the Tlingit name should launch audio with “Admiralty.” Suggestions are welcome! of an elder pronouncing the word, followed by the translation. Appendix 16 has a complete table of place names used If available and “authorized,” further taps link to the story in this journal. behind the name. 4 • A week in Angoon INTRODUCTION is a collaboration between the People & For the past 35 years or so, I’ve kept Place program directed by Bob and Brian detailed journals for almost all of my field McNitt, ‘the Tribe’ (ACA), and the Forest trips, work or play. Writing these journals Service—specifically John Neary, and is the way I learn, and a sort of tribute Chad VanOrmer, Admiralty Wilderness to the amazing places and people I’ve managers. Trainees are 4 young men on been privileged to visit. For some of my the ACA Watershed Crew, all born and journals, the ratio of actual field time to post-trip data- raised in Angoon. processing and writing time is embarrassingly slim. In On August 14th, I flew down the spine of Admiralty that light, this book-length report on a mere 8 days’ with John Neary, while Bob ran from Lemesurier field work might seem excessive. Island to Angoon in his skiffPearl , which we’d be But I couldn’t stop thinking and mapping and writing
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