The Mâconnais and The Rhône The Mâconnais and the Rhône Here we feature wines from two contrasting and complementary French wines regions in eastern : the former producing almost exclusively white wine from Chardonnay, the latter dominated by reds, from Grenache, Syrah and a range of supporting varieties. Our long-held enthusiasm for the wines of the Rhône was established with our first ever specialist list in the autumn of 2002. This year we thought we would, for the first time, give greater prominence to our splendid portfolio of wines from the Mâconnais. Simon Taylor September 2010

Mixed Cases All cases include 2 bottles of each of six wines, with a discount of at least 7.5%.

MRH110 Mâcon Medley £118.50 MRH410 Grenache with Grunt £86.50 (Six reds) (Six whites) 2009 Vignerons d’Estézargues, Cuvée des Galets, Côtes du 2009 Talmard, Mâcon- (p.3) Rhône (p.5) 2008 Fichet, Mâcon-Villages, Terroir de (p.3) 2009 Gres Saint Vincent, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Signargues 2009 Sainte Barbe, Mâcon-Villages, Les Tilles (p.3) (p.5) 2008 Nicolas Maillet, Mâcon Villages (p.4) 2008 Guicharde, Côtes du Rhône, Cuvée Léon (p.5) 2008 Maurice Lapalus, Mâcon (p.4) 2009 Amadieu, Côtes du Rhône Villages (p. 5) 2008 Saumaize-Michelin, Saint Véran, Fleur (p.4) 2007 Pigeade, Ventoux, Classique (p.6) 2009 Cassan, Ventoux, Les Esclausels (p.7) MRH210 Mâconnais Masters £156.00 (Six whites, three unoaked, three oaked) MRH510 Terroirs of the Rhône £138.50 2008 Fichet, Mâcon-Burgy, Les Verchères (p.3) (Two whites, four reds) 2009 Sainte Barbe, Mâcon-Villages, Les Tilles (p.3) 2009 Espiers, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Les Diablotines (p.6) 2008 Sainte Barbe, Vire-Clessé, L’Epinet (p.3) 2008 Le Prieuré d’Arras, Saint Joseph Blanc (p.10) 2007 Amadieu, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Cairanne, Vieilles 2008 Chazelles, Vire-Clessé, Vieilles Vignes (p.4) Vignes, (p.5) 2008 Nicolas Maillet, Mâcon Verzé (p.4) 2007 Couroulu, Vacqueyras, Classique (p.7) 2007 Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuissé, Pentacrine (p.4) 2009 Stéphan Pichat, Syrah, VdP (p.10) MRH310 Crisp Whites and Warming Reds £107.00 2006 Le Prieuré d’Arras, Saint Joseph Rouge (p.10) (Three unoaked Mâcons and three reds from the southern Rhône) MRH610 South to North Super Rhône Reds £195.00 2008 Fichet, Mâcon-Villages, Terroir de Burgy (p.3) (Three reds from the south, three from the north) 2008 Chazelles, Vire-Clessé, Vieilles Vignes (p.4) 2007 Cassan, Gigondas (p.7) 2008 Maurice Lapalus, Mâcon-Pierreclos (p.4) 2007 Couroulu, Vacqueyras, Vieilles Vignes (p.7) 2009 Gres Saint Vincent, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Signargues 2007 La Barroche, Châteauneuf du Pape, Terroir (p.9) (p.5) 2006 Monier, Saint Joseph Rouge (p.11) 2009 Cassan, Ventoux, Les Esclausels (p.7) 2007 Yann Chave, Crozes-Hermitage Le Rouvre (p.11) 2008 Domaine du Joncier, Lirac, Le Gourmand (p.8) 2004 Balthazar, Cornas, Chaillot (p.12)

The Mâconnais If I ever thought seriously about upping sticks and moving to France, the Mâconnais would be high on my list of possible destinations. The countryside is beautiful, the weather warmer than England but still temperate, and the vernacular architecture enticing, with little villages of houses built of pale yellow stone clustered around ancient churches. Humans have enjoyed this region for a very long time, as numerous prehistoric sites from Azé to Solutré attest. In wine terms this is a fairly small wine region, approximating to a band about 40 kilometres from north to south, and about 10 kilometres wide, south of the Côte Chalonnaise, and north of Beaujolais. The vineyards are interspersed with plantings of maize, wheat, fruit, stands of poplar and pasture, the latter grazed by both Charolais cattle and Friesians. The best vineyard land tends to lie on the east facing and south-east slopes of north/south ridges, such as the big escarpment above the Saône Valley between Burgy and Viré, or the long, even gradient which runs from Azé via Igé and Verzé to the charmingly named La Roche-Vineuse. Whilst there is a little red wine here, from Gamay and Pinot Noir, this is principally a region for Chardonnay: as in the Côte de Beaune to the north, calcareous soils on these eastward facing hills are perfect for Chardonnay. There are four theoretical levels in the Appellation system: simply Mâcon, a now small zone; Mâcon-Villages, from a much larger geographic zone; then the still larger area of Mâcon- , with the name of 26 specific communes (i.e. villages), such as Burgy or Pierrreclos, appended; and finally the top appellations (some of which have been upgraded from villages with the Mâcon prefix) such as Viré-Clessé in the north and Saint-Véran and Poully-Fuissé in the south. At the same time the geographic name isn’t always a reliable guide to determining quality: much more important is how the land is farmed, how the vines are tended, and how the wine is made. We have tasted widely here, and at one unnamed co-operative in a decent village

2 the wine (if so it can be termed) appeared to taste like water flavoured with citric acid. By contrast a vigneron managing his vines for quality, not quantity, will make a much more interesting and tasty wine. No less than three of our growers - Jean-Marie Chaland at Saint Barbe, Nicolas Maillet and Roger Saumaize - belong to an association called Les Artisans Vignerons de Bourgogne du Sud. The rules of this group are simple: you have to pick your grapes by hand (about 90% of the grapes in the Maconnais are picked - often too early for the development of full ripeness and flavour - by machine); and you have to work the soil with machines or by hand, without using herbicides. The first and third are also farming their land biodynamically. Vintages are moderately important here, though there is some evenness of quality, and there hasn’t been a poor year since, arguably, the odd heatwave year of 2003. 2007 was problem-free; and 2008 uniformly excellent, with wines showing a perfect balance of fruit, concentration and acidity: the best wines will keep well. In 2009 the hot summer delivered very healthy ripe grapes, which have given us lovely fruity wines to be enjoyed young. Why do we like this area so much that we import from no less than seven estates? Firstly because the lesser wines give us a delicious expression of fresh unoaked Chardonnay, different to that of Chablis, but not necessarily offering any less a sense of place. Secondly, the barrel-fermented and oak-aged wines are getting better and better. As even the lesser villages in the Côte de Beaune have become more expensive, the Mâconnais now offers a genuine alternative, proper, ageworthy white Burgundy at a sensible price. Note: in the list below the domaines are listed approximately from north to south.

Domaine Talmard, Uchizy 2008 Domaine Olivier Fichet, Mâcon-Villages, Terroir de Burgy, 13º [Screw-cap] The Talmards, now Mallory and Benjamin, make a very well- known wine which we have stocked since the 2001 vintage. Bottle £9.25 Case £105.45 Code FIC508 Unoaked, but always with considerable breadth and texture, this Pure, classically understated Chardonnay, nicely weighted, with is a benchmark of the region. (They also, confusingly, make a hints of grapefruit and almonds. Deservedly chosen by Simon Mâcon-Chardonnay, named not for the grape but after the nearby Hoggart for a wine offer in The Spectator this August, where village of Chardonnay). described as having “a subtle, slightly understated but creamy taste which made it a fine aperitif as well as a bottle you could 2009 Talmard, Mâcon-Uchizy, 13º drink happily with food”. Now-2012 Bottle £10.25 Case £116.85 Code TAL109 2008 Domaine Olivier Fichet, Mâcon-Burgy, An old favourite, with a loyal following, this always offers generous weight, rounded and subtle citrus fruit. Now-2012 Les Verchères, 13º Bottle £13.95 Case £159.03 Code FIC708 Olivier Fichet, Burgy Classy scents of green fruit with an attractive accent of lavender Olivier is the winemaker in his family’s cellar in Igé to the south, honey. Builds well, creamy and richly textured, with a core of but the vineyards he has bought on his own account lie around lime, greengage and even a suggestion of passion-fruit, with a Burgy in the northern Mâconnais, and notably in some of the best good buttress of supporting oak. Long. So complete and impressive land near the summit above the village. The excellent unoaked at this price. Now-2013 Mâcon-Villages he could call Mâcon-Burgy if he wished, but he chooses not to, as he restricts that name for his top wine, Les Domaine Sainte Barbe, Viré Verchères, from a single hectare of 60 year old vines, all barrel Young Jean-Marie Chaland, the son of the family who own fermented, with a fifth going into new barrels. The latter, winner Domaine des Chazelles (see below), is a live wire, quickly adopting of a gold medal in the 2010 Chardonnay du Monde competition, organic (certified) and then bio-dynamic viticulture with the aim is perfect for those who used to drink wines from the Côte de of improving his wines. He is also now using less new oak barrels Beaune but now can’t afford to! (as we expected: the young often throw new oak onto their wines with the intention of making something really impressive before swiftly realising their folly!). So Les Tilles, from a vineyard near , planted on oolitic limestone soil, has now become unoaked. We have recently added L’Epinet, from a small parcel of vines planted in the 1940s high on the slopes above Viré. These are both classy wines, which deserve their prices for their quality, not their bio-dynamic culture! 2009 Domaine Sainte Barbe, Mâcon-Villages, Les Tilles, 13.5º Bottles £11.95 Case £136.23 Code SAB109 Pale and clear. Light scent of white flowers. Mid-weight, such pretty ripe fruit, perfumed, with a hint of fennel. Cool, refined, and long. Now-2012 2008 Domaine Sainte Barbe, Viré-Clessé, L’Epinet, 13.5º Bottle £15.75 Case £179.55 Code SAB308 Scent of hawthorn blossom. Piercing green fruit: so promising for the future. Very pure and elegant, with honeyed touches, this unfolds so well. “Refined but still youthful Chardonnay from the Mâconnais. Nicely concentrated apple-scented fruit with bright acidity and an underlying creaminess and steeliness 90/100”, The Wine Gang, August 2010. Can be approached now but best 2011- 2014

3 Domaine des Chazelles, Viré Maurice Lapalus & Fils, Pierreclos Viré-Clessé, a very small appellation based on the eponymous Christophe Lapalus makes the wine at this small family domaine villages and the hamlet of Quintaine in between the two, offers in the southern Mâconnais: Pierreclos lies a few kilometres from a distinctive local expression of Chardonnay: pure and with an Fuissé. This is the 8th vintage we have bought of his consistently appley accent. This wine, from old vines grown on a very sunny, fresh, unoaked (and hand-picked) Chardonnay well-exposed site, has become one of our favourites: lightly (almost undiscernibly) oaked and with an ability to age well. 2008 Maurice Lapalus, Mâcon Pierreclos, 12.5º Bottle £8.95 Case £102.03 Code LAQ108 2008 Domaine des Chazelles, Viré-Clessé, Attractive lemony scent, followed by a fresh and crisp attack, lifted Vieilles Vignes, 13.5º by citrus blossom touches. Now-2012 Bottle £14.75 Case £168.15 Code CHZ108 As usual, appley scents. Very textured (those old vines), offering Saumaize-Michelin, a rich mid-palate with echoes of red apples and cream. Excellent In the south of the Mâconnais, the vineyards are dominated by two mineral balance, and a sustained finish. Now-2013 huge limestone crests, the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson. This is the most prestigious area of the Mâconnais, with the well-known Nicolas Maillet, Verzé appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé at its core. Whilst plenty of superb We have tasted and admired Nicolas Maillet’s wines for years, wine is made here, there are also some overblown examples, too but never dared to add them to our existing stable of growers: fat, and even, in some cellars, simply too sweet. Fortunately in however, after retasting them this spring we just had to list them. Roger Saumaize we have someone who unfailingly delivers full- These are surely some of the most exciting unoaked wines in the flavoured but taut and mineral wines. Mâconnais, startlingly fresh, pure and lively. I defy even avowed He would unquestionably attribute the current qualities of his Chardonnay-haters to dislike these! wines to bio-dynamic viticulture. He is the only man I have Nicolas, having worked his way around the wine world from Chile seen actually stirring his own preparations, the homeopathically to the USA, assumed control of a small family estate in 1998, charged solutions to be sprayed on the vines, an exhausting task. taking his vineyards out of the local co-operative. He owns only Wiry, passionate, nervously intense, far happier in the vineyard 5½ hectares, but he supplements this for his Macon-Villages with than in the office, he makes a terrific range of barrel-fermented bought in grapes, almost all from an organic grower near Viré. wines, many from single vineyard sites, which all combine buttery Nicolas himself, having worked his land without chemicals for richness with natural acidity. His wines keep very well too. years, began the conversion period to organic certification with 2008 Saumaize-Michelin, Saint-Véran, Fleur, 13º the 2008 vintage. He attributes the very individual style of his wines - so pure and crisp one can almost taste the grapes - in part Bottle £13.75 Case £156.75 Code SAU808 to very long fermentations, all in stainless steel tanks. Such a classy nose. Low yields have resulted in a rich, concentrated palate with floral and stone-fruit notes supported by subtle 2008 Nicolas Maillet, Mâcon Villages, 13º minerality. Well balanced and attractive. Now-2012 Bottle £11.75 Case £133.95 Code MAI108 2008 Saumaize-Michelin, Saint-Véran, Splendid scent of ripe red apples. Such intense fruit - red Les Crèches, 13º apples, grapefruit and even fresh grapes. Powerful too: a winner. Now-2012 Bottle £15.50 Case £176.70 Code SAU308 From a very chalky valley near Davayé, the grapes fermented in 2008 Nicolas Maillet, Mâcon Verzé, 13º traditional pièces. Intensely perfumed with hazelnut and vanilla Bottle £12.50 Case £142.50 Code MAI308 aromas. This is so stylish, displaying Roger Saumaize’s deft touch: From a vineyard on the crest of the hills at Verzé, the vines about elegantly integrated oak and creamy ripe fruit linger on a long 45 years old. Very bright style – bursting with lime, ripe grapefruit savoury finish. Now-2013 and juicy green apples. Very intense - similar to Chablis in its 2007 Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuissé, Pentacrine, 13º piercing crispness - but satiny too. Very long. Now-2013 Bottle £17.95 Case £204.63 Code SAU707 Named after the five-sided marine fossils found locally, this wine is raised in larger 400-600 litre barrels, which help produce a floral, early drinking style. Apricot touches. Elegant and long. Now-2014 2007 Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuissé, Clos sur la Roche, 13º Bottle £20.95 Case £238.83 Code SAU407 From a vineyard right on the dramatic rock of Vergisson. Pale colour. The well focused nose exhibits subtle pear with integrated oak. On the palate fruit and oak are coming into balance, and the underlying power is impressive. Roger Saumaize suggests this wine has great keeping potential. Now-2015 2007 Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly-Fuissé, Les Ronchevats, 13.5º Bottle £21.95 Case £250.23 Code SAU607 These vines are grown on compacted argillieux soils, some of the oldest geology in the region. The resulting wine has a delightful citrus and cream balance, with the mineral cut producing an almost Puligny-like elegance. Now-2015

4 Southern Rhône The Southern Rhône is the home of Grenache, a much under-rated grape whose time is now upon us. The first International Grenache Symposium took place in the southern Rhône in June 2010, attended by some 270 wine folk dedicated to raising the profile of a this grape, so widely planted in the south of France and Spain, but sadly under-represented in the New World (where it has been absurdly left behind in the race to plant Syrah). In a message on the organisation’s website, Jancis Robinson, MW pointed out that “The southern Rhône, best known for Châteauneuf-du-Pape and dominated by the historic Grenache grape, is one of the wine world’s brightest stars at the moment, offering reliably satisfying and complex, ageworthy wines at a decent price year in and year out”. We need say no more, except to point out that 2007 was a really superb vintage all over the south. Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages Les Vignerons d’Estézargues 2008 Domaine Gres Saint Vincent, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Signargues, 14.5° Every time we visit this tiny co-operative, in a small village in the Gard, just west of Avignon, we bless the research in French Bottle £8.75 Case £99.75 Code ESZ508 wine guides which led us here. We taste about a dozen wines Ripe, friendly scent of berries. Surprisingly lush and velvety, here and the problem, a nice one admittedly, is just working all black cherries, rounded and smooth. So ripe, winning and out which of the wines in any given vintage has really shown enjoyable. Now-2012 the best. From the land of just ten vignerons winemaker Denis Deschamps Domaine de la Guicharde, Derboux crafts wines from shared grapes - such as the great value Côtes In the fascinating sub zone of the Massif d’Uchaux, north of Orange, du Rhône listed below - and also makes wines for the different, the vineyards lie in small patches among the wooded hills. Just privately owned domaines under their own estate names. All outside the village of Derboux, the young couple of Arnaud and wines are bottled unfiltered, sometimes lending a slightly hazy Isabelle Guichard are in conversion to organic viticulture. Their look, but, more important, a satisfying density and mouthfeel, to red, from equal proportions of Grenache and Syrah, is authentic add to the delicious, forward raspberry and cherry fruit. Wines and traditional in style. from Estézagues are hugely admired within France and we count ourselves fortunate to offer the widest range of their wines in the 2008 Guicharde, Côtes du Rhône, Cuvée Léon, 13° UK market. Bottle £7.50 Case £85.50 Code GUH108 We always stock Les Galets, a cheerful blend of Grenache, Soft ruby tone. Light scent of raspberries and currant leaf. Crisp Cinsaut and Syrah, which makes a really honest, daily drinking and juicy cranberries and raspberries, supported by a smudge of wine. The Terra Vitis Côtes du Rhône, from grapes farmed within a tannin, and with a gently spicy finish. An honest, straightforward sustainable, minimal intervention discipline, half way to organic Southern Rhône. Now-2011 viticulture, practiced by five members of the co-operative, always has a bit more black fruit and stuffing. Pierredon is mildly unusual, Domaine des Amadieu, Cairanne in that this is a blend of halves of Grenache and Mourvèdre. Gres Saint Vincent is a more conventional southern Rhône blend of The Achiarys have retired here and Yves-Jean Houser, with a 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and about 10% of each of Mourvèdre, background as an agronomist, has taken over. They worked together Carignan and Cinsaut. The last two wines are both from the newly on the superb 2007 vintage, and Yves-Jean is now in sole charge. delimited Côtes du Rhône Villages zone of Signargues, where the (Note that this small domaine of only 7 hectares is not to be confused vineyards lie across raised alluvial terraces of rolled stones, the with the huge Gigondas-based negoçiant, Pierre Amadieu!). famous galets of the region. The Côtes du Rhône Villages is from a small patch of vines towards Sérignan, and is based on about 70% Grenache. From 2009 Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, Côtes du Rhône, Cairanne, arguably the top village in the whole Côtes du Rhône Cuvée des Galets, 14° Villages appellation, we present their old vine cuvée, about 50% Bottle £6.95 Case £79.23 Code ESZ109 Grenache, 20% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre, and 10% Carignan, largely from vines over 50 years old. About a quarter of this goes Soft raspberry hue. As usual a brambly nose with a hint of blueberry into old barrels just to round it out. The 2007 has such mass and and herbs leads on to a bright, raspberrish mouthful, mildly spicey depth that it could easily be mistaken for a much grander wine. and very moreish. Now-2012 2009 Amadieu, Côtes du Rhône Villages, 14° 2009 Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, Côtes du Rhône, Terra Vitis, 14° Bottle £8.75 Case £99.75 Code AMB109 Youthful purple. Lively, brambly scent. Raspberry and cherry core, Bottle £7.50 Case £85.50 Code ESZ209 nicely crunchy with just the lightest tannin/acid support. Gutsy, Deep tone. Ripe scents, with a suggestion of preserved fruits and vibrant Grenache which will get even better over the next few vanilla. Strong cherry character, very supple, with some genuine months. Now-2012. depth and surprising length for the money. Now-2012 2007 Amadieu, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Cairanne, 2008 Domaine de Pierredon, Vieilles Vignes, 14° Côtes du Rhône Villages, 14.5° Bottle £11.75 Case £133.95 Code AMB307 Bottle £8.75 Case £99.75 Code ESZ608 Really attractive Kirsch aromas - so seductive – with the merest Lovely purple hue. Aroma of maraschino cherries; and that hint of sandalwood. Concentrated, old-viney fruit, redolent of bittersweet red and black cherry character is dominant, enlivened mulberries and damsons, lightly spiced. A really impressive wine by attractive hints of smoke, black olive and black pepper. Really (this would put many a Châteauneuf to shame), smooth, complete soft but present tannins. Marked by a lively, spicy finish. Both and long. Would be terrific with robust stews or anything with a robust and refined. Now-2012 strong, hard cheese sauce. Now-2013

5 Around Les Dentelles du Montmirail Les Dentelles de Montmirail are the spiky limestone mountains to the east of Orange which dominate the entire southern Rhône plain. To the south lies the village of Beaumes-de-Venise, which now has its own appellation for its red wines to add to the previous well-known appellation for the fortified white Muscat. To the east looms the much higher peak of Mont Ventoux. Ventoux (formerly Côtes de Ventoux) can offer distinctive, and very good value, red wine, both light and spicy. On the western slopes of the Dentelles lie Gigondas and Vacqueyras, the second and third most important appellations (after Châteauneuf) in the southern Rhône. These are both famous names for wine, but, as in Burgundy, actually tiny villages where almost the whole population is employed in the wine industry in some way or other. The wines of Gigondas may not be able to reach quite the heights of Châteauneuf but they are a lot more consistent, with nearly ¾ of the wine bottled by individual growers, and with most of the appellation lying on well-drained vineyards running up to almost 600m, on classic limestone and clay soils. Vacqueyras, which became an appellation in its own right in 1990, is less homogenous in quality, but again the best wines, from either the slopes near the village or the plateau marked by galets, can be excellent. A few kilometres to the north along the shoulders of the Dentelles lies the pretty village of Sablet.

Domaine de la Pigeade, 2009 Espiers, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Beaumes-de-Venise Les Diablotines, 14° Bottle £10.75 Case £122.55 Code ESP609 Young perfectionist Thierry Vaute is now recognised as crafting one From about half Roussanne with Clairette and Bourbolenc, this is rich of the best Muscats de Beaumes-de-Venise. (Muscat de Beaumes- and tasty, with crisp greengage fruit in a satiny body. Now-2013 de-Venise is probably the best-known of those delectable Vins Doux Naturels which are found across the south of France. Made 2009 Espiers, Côtes du Rhône Rouge, 14° by stopping the fermentation of ripe grapes, half way through its Bottle £9.75 Case £111.15 Code ESP109 course, by the addition of pure grape alcohol - thereby killing the Magnum £19.95 Case (6 x 150cl.) £113.72 Code ESP809 yeasts - this leaves a sweet wine with lots of natural grapey flavour and sugar). The secret to Thierry’s Muscat is the extra care he takes Deep, vibrant purple. Terrific, blackberry and cherry-liqueur at every stage of harvesting and vinification: the picked bunches flavoured red with depth and structure. Expensive for a straight Côtes of Muscat are brought into the cellar in small boxes, and are then du Rhône but worth every penny: superb this vintage. Now-2013 laid out on a table de trie for selection. The bunches are then 2008 Espiers, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Sablet, 14.5° destemmed and chilled right down for a twelve hour maceration before fermentation, also at controlled temperature: all to preserve Bottle £11.50 Case £131.10 Code ESP408 the enticing aromatics. 2008 was very low-yielding, so this has decent concentration. Ripe berried scent. Medium-bodied, showing red plums and Thierry’s red Ventoux Classique, from Grenache, Carignan and redcurrants with a touch of white pepper. Powerful, with some Syrah, is a really pure and elegant example. tannins there for support. Long, spicy finish. Now-2014 2008 Pigeade, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, 15° 2006 Espiers, Gigondas, Tradition, 14.5° Bottle £13.95 Case £159.03 Code PIG108 Bottle £14.95 Case £170.43 Code ESP306 A delirious scent of orange blossom and lilies, and a gorgeously Bright purple. Enticing scents of herbs and liquorice. Big, juicy exotic palate of caramelised oranges, honey, and lychees. So light gulp of ripe red and blackcurrants. Fine textured - very smooth and aromatic for a fortified wine, all freshness, perfume and finesse. tannins there. Builds well on the palate. “The best gigondas are Everyone needs some of this - and serve chilled. Now-2011 mini châteauneufs. 2006 was a particularly good vintage in the southern rhône, and this is one of Cartoux’s finest gigondas yet. 2007 Pigeade, Ventoux Classique, 13.5° It delivers the sort of vivid, crimson-purple hue blessed with delicious, spicy, red-fruit flavours that will win it many festive fans”. Bottle £8.25 Case £94.05 Code PIG607 Jane MacQuitty, Top 100 Winter Wines, The Times, December Mid purple. Open, pretty scent of fresh berries. This shows the 13th 2008. Now-2013 crisp freshness of redcurrants and red cherries. Nicely perfumed, and, by Southern Rhône standards, light and refined - a bottle 2006 Espiers, Gigondas, Cuvée des Blaches, 14.5° could vanish very fast indeed. Now-2011 Bottle £19.95 Case £227.43 Code ESP206 Liqueur-like scent. Luxurious cherry fruit, almost Turkish-delight Domaine des Espiers, Vacqueyras like in its sweetness and perfume, is overlaid by chocolatey oak notes and black pepper. So expansive and seductive. A show- Philippe Cartoux - such a likeable, intelligent young man - stopper, if not for traditionalists! Now-2013 continues to go from strength to strength at the winery he shares with his wife’s family at the Domaine de Montvac on the outskirts of Vacqueyras. Do note his white, which is improving with every vintage. The red Côtes du Rhône, from densely planted, low yielding vines around Vacqueyras and Gigondas, is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah. This is a very dense and gutsy wine for keeping as much as drinking in the concentrated, low-yielding 2009 vintage. We then move up to the Sablet, from Philippe’s vineyards on the slopes above the village, about two-thirds Grenache and a quarter Syrah. The top vineyard holding is 3 hectares of Gigondas. The Tradition is about 2/3 Grenache and 1/3 Syrah, all raised for 6 months in old oak barriques. The Cuvée des Blaches (only 2000 bottles of this) incorporates more Syrah and takes the oak further (though only 15% new barrels) to create a sumptuous and showy bottle.

6 Domaine de Cassan, Lafare Domaine Le Couroulu, Vacqueyras Our friend Gérard Paillet has retired at Cassan, and his guiding Guy Ricard, short, chubby, and with a mat of curly grey hair, has hand has been replaced by his brother-in-law, Jean-Charles become one of our favourite suppliers, and it is clear by our rising Croset. Fortunately the winemaking is as professional as ever, as sales that you appreciate his wines too. His shoulder-shrugging proved by an impressive line-up of 2009s, of which we list just modesty, disarming smile and dishevelled clothing make him the lively Côtes de Ventoux for now. As we always say, this is the almost a caricature of the middle aged French vigneron. He makes most beautifully sited of all the domaines we buy from, with a reds in a thoroughly old-fashioned style, using long macerations, Provençale farmhouse and cellar set amidst sloping vineyards, turning out gutsy, rustic wines which even in youth show complex glowing green in summer, girt by the white limestone crests of nuances of flavour yet keep superbly too. Prices, despite the the Dentelles. The estate’s vines straddle the boundary between fact that this is one of Robert Parker’s long-term favourites in the the recently created red wine appellation of Beaumes-de-Venise southern Rhône, remain very fair. and Gigondas. The white (a rarity, as so little white Vacqueyras is made, and Of the three reds we offer, the Ventoux, from about 70% Grenache Guy only produces 2,000 bottles) is splendid. From Viognier and and 30% Cinsaut, always offers vitality, bright fruit and spice. The Roussanne in barrel and Grenache Blanc and Clairette kept closed Beaumes-de-Venise Cuvée St. Christophe, about 2/3 Grenache, in tank, this is a little fresher than usual in the 2009 vintage, but 1/4 Syrah, with Mourvèdre and Cinsaut, named after one of those still akin to a white Châteauneuf at a friendlier price. little chapels to the wayfaring Saint, comes from two parcels of 30-40 year old vines in a little south-facing amphitheatre: this The Classique is the domaine’s chief wine, a blend of about 60% offers Gigondas-like weight and ageing potential without the Grenache, 25% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre, kept all in bétons, price tag. The Gigondas, from vineyards on the north slopes of the large concrete tanks: this is showing superbly in the great 2007 southern ridge of the Dentelles, is always at least 3/4 Grenache, vintage. We also always list his top red, from foudres, huge and with Syrah and some Mourvèdre. The 2007 vintage we offer ancient oak vats; about 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, made below was recently included in an unofficial event held by all from old vine parcels planted on the plateau amidst the garrigue the vignerons in Gigondas, at which 57 wines were tasted blind, by his grandparents. This is a terrific, profound wine, the 2007 still and scored between 2 and 8 points. Cassan’s scored an average of very much on the way up. 7.65 and was placed 7th overall. Given that many wines from this 2009 Le Couroulu, Vacqueyras Blanc, appellation are much more expensive, this is a terrific result. Cuvée Laura, 13.5° 2009 Cassan, Ventoux, Les Esclausels, 14° Bottle £13.50 Case £153.90 Code COW609 Bottle £7.95 Case £90.63 Code CAS509 Such an open, enticing perfume, all honey, blossom and white Wow – this wine hits the spot again! Soft purple. Scents of crushed peach. That stone fruit is to the fore, with apricots and fresh peach red fruits with a liquorice twist. Lively red fruit - juicy red cherries set off by an almondy undernote. A great match for Mediterranean - with just the right bit of grip. White pepper on a long finish. fish cuisine, such as bouillabaisse. Now-2012 Authentic, honest, bright country wine. Now-2012 2007 Le Couroulu, Vacqueyras, Classique, 14.5° 2007 Cassan, Beaumes-de-Venise, Cuvée St. Christophe, 14° Bottle £13.95 Case £159.03 Code COW107 Bottle £11.95 Case £136.23 Code CAS207 This is certainly the most impressive Classique we have ever tasted here. The aromas are rich and almost gamey already, followed by Lovely bright purple/black colour. Aromas of compôte of black a very concentrated coulis of red and black fruit, with attractive fruit: myrtilles, cassis and damsons, with hints of herbs and the meatiness. Such fat and glycerol (Guy admits the alcohol might merest savoury note of development. Approachable, smooth and be slightly higher than on the label). Such a long finish, showing offers a palate of cooked black plums and spice. Now-2013 black pepper. “Kirsch liqueur, roasted Provencal herbs, spice box, 2007 Cassan, Gigondas, 14° licorice, and lavender soar from the glass of this full-bodied, richly fruity wine, which has superb depth, density, and a 30+ second Bottle £15.25 Case £173.85 Code CAS307 finish. This is an impressively endowed, round, voluptuous style Magnum £32.95 Case (6 x 150cl.) £187.82 Code CAS407 of Vacqueyras, but don’t make the mistake of drinking it all in This wine is still very much in a gorgeous primary fruit stage. Bright its exuberant youthfulness, as it will keep for 6-7 years. It is a purple. Aromas of cherries and juicy black fruits (blackberries) – but blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 15% Mourvedre aged in the palate reveals lovely fresh raspberries and even strawberries. foudres. 90+/100”, Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, October 2009. Really velvety – the tannins are there but, as so often with the Now-2014 2007s, covered by the sumptuous fruit. Interesting herbal garrigue notes. Very pure finish, with ripe fruit returning. So winning. 2007 Le Couroulu, Vacqueyras, Vieilles Vignes, 14.5° Now-2017 Bottle £16.75 Case £190.95 Code COW307 Aromas of dried fruits – figs. Svelte and supple texture, with the tannins so well-covered. Appealing attack of sweet black cherries with spice and a gravy note. By comparison with the Classique this is more black-fruited, and also feels a little with-held: it should be even better in a year or so. “An absolute whopper of a Vacqueyras is the 2007 Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes, which comes from their oldest vines and is a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. Licorice, charcoal, blackberry and cassis notes, along with hints of lavender and pepper, jump from the glass of this inky/purple- colored wine. Layered and multi-dimensional, with superb purity, fleshy, concentrated fruit, and perfect balance, this wine has an uncanny ability to be substantial in size but remains surprisingly elegant, with admirable purity. This is a super Vacqueyras to drink over the next 7-8 years. 93/100”, Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, October 2009. Now-2017

7 Lirac Domaine du Joncier, Tavel 2006 Joncier, Lirac, Les Muses, 14.5° Lirac is not a homogenous appellation, which holds back its Bottle £14.95 Case £170.43 Code JON306 reputation - you can’t make great wine if your vineyards lie on Smells just so enticing - rich black cherries. Excitingly open sand or pure limestone. However, if your vineyards lie on the mouthful of sloes and damsons in a rich, liqueur-like idiom. same big banks of galets as Châteauneuf, as do those of Joncier, Fine grained tannins giving a firm grip. Hint of tobacco (this then you can indeed rival big brother just across the river, but at often shows on Mourvèdre). So aromatic. Big framed wine with a very fair price. potential. Now-2014 The engaging Marine Roussel believes Joncier is the only domaine making solely Lirac (as opposed to also owning land in Tavel or Châteauneuf) and she’s proud of it. She crops very low, and from the 2008 vintage the wines are organically cultivated certified by ECOCERT. Marine, like so many vignerons do after turning to organics, is now adopting bio-dynamic practice. We always ship all her three reds: Le Gourmand, about 3/4 Grenache with Carignan and Cinsaut, is usually red-fruited, lighter than the Classique. The latter is from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, with Cinsaut and Carignan. Les Muses is based on 75% Mourvèdre, with 15% Cinsaut, 6% Syrah and 4% Grenache, which makes for a powerful, deep-hued wine with ageing potential - lovers of Bandol take note. 2008 Joncier, Lirac, Le Gourmand, 14.5° Bottle £9.95 Case £113.43 Code JON508 Marine cropped low in 2008, so this is perhaps more intense than usual. Deep hue. Lively wild strawberries and redcurrants, enlivened by spice and a certain zestiness. Smoothly structured, this makes excellent autumn/winter drinking. Now-2012 2008 Joncier, Lirac, Le Classique, 14° Bottle £10.95 Case £124.83 Code JON108 Scent of fresh red berries. Juicy, red cherry and blackcurrant character. Lots of fresh fruit, pure, but attractively spicy, with a fine aromatic finish. Now-2013

Châteauneuf-du-Pape The wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, at 3,300 hectares the third largest appellation in France (after St-Emilion and Chablis) come with a whole lot of vinous baggage: from the fact that they can include no less than 13 grape varieties; to the glossy papal regalia - keys, mitre or whatever - on the bottle. Most important, this was the first Appellation d’Origine in France, and the rules first framed here in 1923 - regarding classified geographical boundaries based on soil types and vineyard suitability, limited yields and approved grape varieties and pruning - formed the basis for the whole Appellation Controlée system. However, the appearance of knobbly papal keys on the bottle is certainly no guarantor of fine wine in this huge appellation, so here we focus on two stellar estates, with very old vines on some of the best land. Their wines are classics, capable of ageing a decade or more. The blend is all in Châteauneuf, white or red. Regarding the latter Vincent Avril (see below) points out that the latitude and climate of the region is perfectly poised: at the southernmost point for Syrah with finesse; and the northernmost to ripen Mourvèdre successfully.

Domaine La Barroche, Châteauneuf-du-Pape The latest tasting with young Julien Barrot confirmed our opinion that in him at Barroche (probably named for the rocks under the cellar - “bas roche”) we have picked a winner. Barroche is not yet a well-known name, as the Barrot family only ceased selling their grapes (after 300 years of viticulture!) to begin bottling their own wine in 2003. Winemaker Julien Barrot joined his father in 2002 when he was barely 21, but has guided this estate’s transformation from selling grapes to the negoçiants to creating a remarkable array of top wines. His precious inheritance includes about a third of the estate’s 12 hectares planted to 100 year old Grenache vines. Most of the vines lie in the north and north east of the appellation, on the plateau near to Rayas and Beaucastel, on very meagre, sandy and pebbley soils.

8 Terroir comes from the fruit of the younger (i.e. 15-30 year old, so not that young!) vines, and is delightfully red-fruited, for drinking from now. Signature, the estate’s principal wine, is dominated by about 60% Grenache, with Mourvèdre and Cinsaut (the Cinsaut, from old vines in Les Cerises, is wonderful in this cellar) and is a concentrated wine for ageing. 2006 Barroche, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Terroir, 15° Bottle £19.95 Case £227.43 Code BAS106 Charming scent of pure red fruit. So immediately appealing, showing a seamlessly textured and open palate of red fruits - raspberries and mulberries - with smooth but present tannins. Offers immediate, vital drinking, but will keep for years. Now-2014. Limited stock 2006 Barroche, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Signature, 15° Bottle £29.50 Case £336.30 Code BAS206 Dark fruit - cooked damsons. No aggressive tannins. Polished, well balanced. Plums and cassis: red fruit spice, very fresh fruit and lovely balance. Great mass, and splendid potential. Now-2016 2007 Barroche, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Terroir, 15° Bottle £21.50 Case £245.10 Code BAS107 Attractive bright, youthful purple. The nose is open and red fruited; raspberries and cherries. The concentration of old vine fruit shows on the densely ripe palate. Rich primary fruit masks the ripe Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape tannins, so well balanced. This will definitely develop well, but is already delicious. “The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Terroir (95% Vincent Avril, tall, softly spoken and modest, is the current Grenache and the rest Mourvedre, Syrah, and Cinsault aged in custodian at Clos des Papes. This is an estate steeped in history: foudres) comes from the estate’s youngest vines (about 20 years Avril ancestors have been growers in Châteauneuf since about on average) and exhibits very sexy, ripe black currant and black 1600; were the town treasurers in the second half of the 18th cherry fruit intermixed with sandalwood, fruitcake, and spice box. century; and prime movers in the creation of the Appellation Opulent, full-bodied, and rich, with plenty of glycerin and fruit between 1911 and 1923. They are the owners of the now terraced covering up some silky tannins, this dark ruby/purple-colored vineyard which surrounds the ruined papal castle, formerly wine is broad, savory, and best drunk over the next 10-15 years. enclosed by a wall, hence the name Clos; and began selling wine 91/100”, Robert Parker in The Wine Advocate, October 2009. under the Clos des Papes label as far back as 1896. Now-2015 Steered by Paul Avril, Vincent’s father, and Vincent himself since 1987, this estate has steadily ascended the hierarchy in the 2007 Barroche, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Signature, 15° Appellation, and now makes what is rightly famed as one of Bottle £31.50 Case £359.10 Code BAS207 the top wines, despite just making one red wine, not numerous Very closed when tasted recently. Textured, and layers of black special bottlings. From about 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, fruit, to be sure, but tight and lacking aromatics. Best 2012-2018 10% Syrah and 5% of Counoise, Vaccarèse and Muscardin, it’s always highly refined - Vincent, trained in Beaune, seeks a Burgundian “finesse” - and approachable quite young, although the relatively high percentage of Mourvèdre adds longevity. The 2008 listed below was from a particularly strict selection - yields of only 17 hl./ha. Clos des Papes have also long made a speciality of their white wine. It is unusual in its blend, being approximately a sixth each of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Bourbolenc, Picpoul, Clairette and the little known Picardan. Vincent states that the first two bring fruit and weight, the second two acidity and freshness, and the last two finesse. As with much white Châteauneuf, this can be drunk young or is best left for many years, becoming straw- coloured, complex and mineral. 2006 Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, 15° Bottle £29.95 Case £341.43 Code CDP306 Not tasted recently, but likely to be subdued, in its closed down stage. Probably best 2012-2016. Limited stock 2008 Clos des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 14.5° Bottle £43.50 Case £495.90 Code CDP108 Open, seductive scents of crushed red fruit. Deliciously lush primary fruit, vibrant strawberries and raspberries, with a liquorice accent from the Syrah. So smooth and refined, with suave tannins, that you could drink and hugely enjoy this now, but perhaps best 2012-2017. Limited stock

9 Northern Rhône The narrow valley of the Rhône south of Lyon is the spiritual home of Syrah. Here the vineyards crawl up the steep slopes, largely on the west side of the river. As Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage and Cornas become steadily more expensive, we continue to champion the cause of Saint Joseph, which shares similarly sparse soils derived from decayed granite. Whites from this region - Condrieu from Viognier, other whites from Marsanne and Roussanne - are rare and not cheap, but unusual and fascinating. Condrieu is one of the great aperitif wines of the world (though great with crustacea too) and the others exceptionally food- friendly and characterful. The appellations below are broadly listed from north to south. Condrieu (and almost Côte Rôtie) Stephan Pichat, Vérenay 2009 Stéphan Pichat, Condrieu, La Caille, 13.5° For a few years we have been tasting in and around Ampuis and Bottle £35.00 Case £399.00 Code PID609 Condrieu seeking a producer who makes just the combination of Hint of green. Citrus blossom on the nose. Mid-weight, this wines we seek: Condrieu, Vin de Pays Syrah and Côte Rôtie. At last, flowers on the palate, showing pure fresh apricots and white in the engaging young Stephan Pichat we have found our man. This peach, with a honeyed nuance and an undertone of irony is a very small estate: Stephan began in 2000 with tiny quantities minerality. The finish just goes on and on, even hinting at of fruit, has stuck a crowded cellar on to his house in Vérenay, and pineapple. Now-2012 has only around 10,000 bottles a year to sell. Unusually he has invested in a new basket-press, which he feels suits Syrah well. 2009 Stéphan Pichat, Syrah, Vin de Pays des Collines For the moment we have only two wines to offer, but next year Rhodaniennes, 13° we will be offering his 2009 Côte Rôties. His Condrieu, from one Bottle £12.50 Case £142.50 Code PID109 south-facing parcel which gives him just three barrels (one new each vintage), is just the style we really like, with the stone fruit Bright, fairly clear purple. Lightly perfumed. Pure, smooth, gently balanced by sinewy minerality. His Vin de Pays Syrah is actually crunchy style, evincing redcurrants and fresh berries. Ripe and from his young vines within the Côte Rôtie appellation, a really understated tannins. Juicy and enjoyable, a splendid lunch wine. pure and juicy example. Now-2012 Saint Joseph We continue to trumpet the potential of Saint Joseph, and its significance in the northern Rhône. With almost every square metre of Côte- Rôtie, Hermitage and Cornas planted (and the wines subsequently subject to continual upward price pressure) the only appellation left with decayed granitic soils and plenty of steep east and south facing soils (i.e. the classic terroir for Rhône Syrah) is Saint Joseph.

Le Prieuré d’Arras, Arras Domaine Monier, St. Desirat Etienne Becheras worked as oenologue at the co-operative at Jean-Pierre Monier is a bio-dynamic producer, having farmed Sarras before establishing his own 2½ hectares of vines (he has organically since the early 1980s, and converted to bio-dynamism apricots and cherries too) around his house on the slopes above in 1997. He first bottled his own wines in 2001. He owns a mere the church in Arras. His first vintage was 1999, and we began 5 hectares of south to south-east facing vines just north of St. working with him from the 2003 vintage. Soils here are markedly Desirat on very steep, granitic vineyards. The standard Saint granitic - it’s not that far north of Cornas. Joseph comes from five plots, all close to the domaine. Two single Etienne’s white Saint Joseph, from half Roussanne and half vineyard wines are produced: in the 2006 vintage we preferred Marsanne, is splendid. He has only four barrels of this, so it gets the Terres Blanches. 25% new oak! His red is a traditionally styled northern Rhône M. Monier crops very low (25-30 hectolitres a hectare) and picks Syrah, fragrant and medium-bodied, all from old barrels of 400 late: he likes, as he says “une legère surmaturité”, so alcohol levels litres or larger, and a mix of oak (there’s even a bit of American here are highish for the northern Rhône. Both reds are 100% Syrah, oak). This benefits from a bit of time in bottle but offers excellent destemmed after 12 hours fermentation, given a temperature value. controlled fermentation and both spend one year in barrique, about 1/3 new, the rest two to three years old, before being bottled 2008 Le Prieuré d’Arras, Saint Joseph Blanc, 12.5° without any filtration at all. His perfectionist approach extends to Bottle £14.50 Case £165.30 Code BEC608 his selection of wood for the barrels, insisting on naturally dried oak Bright gold. Subtle scent of jasmine and apricot. After a fresh and from Tonnellerie Doreau (this process takes seven years, as opposed lively entry this unfolds attractively, with a tropical character cut to industrially dried wood) from the Tronçais and Allier regions. by lime and showing the fat and flavour of brazil nuts. No marked Jean-Pierre thinks his reds are typified by cassis,myrtille & cherry oak, so already drinking very well. Now-2012 and are very “confits”, not jammy but charmingly ripe. His wines are truly harmonious (is this the biodynamics?) and the fact that 2006 Le Prieuré d’Arras, Saint Joseph Rouge, 12.5° M. Monier sells them to no less than three triple Michelin-starred Bottle £13.50 Case £153.90 Code BEC306 Parisian restaurants speaks volumes both for their class, and the supple suavity which makes them hugely enjoyable soon after Pale, but still youthful purple. Scent of raspberries and blackberries the vintage. with a vanilla nuance; and the palate equally combines red and black fruit. Silkily textured, perfumed in the mouth, and offering We have a tiny quantity of his Viognier - only 1,500 bottles were a satisfying and lightly savoury finish. The sort of fresh and light made. Grown on degraded granite, and barrel fermented, this bodied wine which can slip down all too easily. Now-2013 would put a lot of Condrieus to shame. For the first time we are

10 also able to offer Jean-Pierre’s white Saint Joseph, made from 2006 Monier, Saint Joseph Rouge, 13.5° 100% Marsanne. Bottle £15.75 Case £179.55 Code MOP506 2008 Monier, Viognier, Vin de Pays des Collines Charmingly open black-fruited scent. Deliciously juicy mouthful, Rhodaniennes, 14° not sweet, but with the sharpness of freshly crushed blackberries Bottle £14.95 Case £170.43 Code MOP608 and blackcurrants. So supple. Touch of pepper on the finish. Now-2014 Very bright pale gold. Open classy peach aromas with such well integrated oak. White peach with floral and honeyed nuances; 2006 Monier, Saint Joseph Rouge, and silkily textured. Delicious. Now-2010 Very limited stock Terres Blanches, 13.5° 2008 Monier, Saint Joseph Blanc, 13.5° Bottle £18.50 Case £210.90 Code MOP106 Bottle £19.95 Case £227.43 Code MOP808 Very young, black/purple hue. Gently perfumed - blackcurrant A rich nose of oatmeal and almonds is followed by flavours of and mint. A veneer of fine oak over a smooth tannic structure. baked apples and spices. This has the power and depth of top Velvety fruit with black chocolate notes. Great finesse. white Burgundy, without the prohibitive price. Now-2014 Now-2016

Hermitage & Crozes-Hermitage The great hill of Hermitage produces the most famous wine of all the Rhône. Praised in Roman times, served at the court of Louis XIII, used to bolster the first growths of Bordeaux, and with numerous references in literature, it is perhaps the single wine in the region for which the law of supply and demand will drive the price inexorably upwards: only 131 hectares are planted, and that is it. Crozes-Hermitage, on the other hand, is an appellation of eight times the planted area, and probably over twelve times the volume. Wines here can vary hugely in quality and price so it’s particularly important to choose your grower carefully here – we showcase one of the very best in Yann Chave.

Yann Chave, Mercurol 2006 Yann Chave, Crozes-Hermitage, Le Rouvre, 13.5º We have been buying from Yann Chave (or technically his father at Magnums £37.50 Case (6 x 150cl.) £213.75 Code CHA906 first) since the 1998 vintage, and have seen this highly competitive “The dense purple colored 2006 Crozes-Hermitage Le Rouvre has and very bright young man rise to the top of the tree in Tain a beautiful nose of licorice, black olives, blackberry and raspberry, l’Hermitage (his cellar is just over the autoroute which by-passes with some sweet cherry, smoke, and earth, and displays good this sleepy wine town on the Rhône). Prices have risen, but tannins, fresh acidity, and a long, heady finish. 90/100” Robert justifiably so, and the appearance of his wines in top restaurants Parker’s Wine Advocate, February 2008. all over France testifies to his achievement. With a focus firmly on “Lovely concentrated, peppery, slightly herbal, dark fruit and dark labour in the vineyard (from leaf-stripping to expose the bunches, oaky spice and yet there’s a perfume that emerges through all this to green harvests and picking by hand late for maximum ripeness) to give lift. Subtle, even delicate for the appellation. Fine tannins, Yann’s superbly ripe and concentrated wines are about as far away long dry finish”, Julia Harding, MW on www.JancisRobinson. from supermarket Crozes-Hermitage as Grange Hermitage is from com. Limited stock Oxford Landing Shiraz. Yann treats his two cuvées of Crozes-Hermitage differently. The 2004 Yann Chave, Hermitage, 13.5° standard Crozes receives micro-oxygenation in tank which makes Bottle £33.50 Case £381.90 Code CHA304 for a forward wine which can be drunk quite early, without sacrificing any of the beguiling density of fruit which Yann Deep colour. Black-fruited scents, with a hint of toast and vanilla. achieves. On the other hand his Crozes Le Rouvre, named after a Cassis heart, with dried fruit and savoury complexities. Velvety type of sessile oak, is aged in demi-muids, and is one of the best tannins. Surprisingly elegant. Very long, sweet-fruited finish. wines of the appellation. This comes each vintage from the same Now-2016. Limited stock parcels of old vines on the very stony fields at Les Chassis, and is a very serious, mineral wine for ageing. Yann’s Hermitage, also in demi-muids, but all new barrels, comes from plots in Beaumes and Péléat on the great hill. The 2004 was applauded by La Revue du Vin de France (October 2006) as one of “Les 80 Plus Grandes Cuvées” in the Rhône. 2007 Yann Chave, Crozes-Hermitage, 13.5º Bottle £15.50 Case £176.70 Code CHA107 Vibrant ruby/purple. Scent of ripe plum and blackberries with a hint of herbs. Classic herby, spicy blackberryish Crozes palate, with a touch of black olive and smoke. Notes of pain grillé & coffee - from the ripeness and maturity of the fruit rather than oak. Very long red and black fruit finish. Now-2013 2007 Yann Chave, Crozes-Hermitage, Le Rouvre, 13.5º Bottle £19.50 Case £222.30 Code CHA207 Already so lovely: elegant and well balanced, with very supple tannins. So approachable, with intense cherry, mulberry and blackberry fruit with spice and herbs plus a touch of black pepper on the very long finish. Enticing. Now-2016

11 Cornas Cornas used to be a well-kept secret; a tiny appellation of less than 100 hectares engendering splendidly long-lived Syrah at a reasonable price. However rising demand for Côte Rôtie and Hermitage has brought Cornas into the limelight too. It’s a splendid terroir, with gritty, friable granitic soils on slopes almost as vertiginous as at Côte Rôtie.

Cave Balthazar, Cornas 2004 Balthazar, Cornas, Chaillot, 13° Bottle £19.95 Case £227.43 Code BAL104 Nothing changes here - the wine is still somehow made in the miniscule cellar near the church in Cornas by the neat and modest Clear purple. Very open, entrancing scent; cassis and violets. Sharp Franck Balthazar, from very low yields off three tiny parcels of red fruit, redcurrants and raspberries, not sweet but very supple. vines, 41 and 92 years old, totalling 2 hectares, on very well-sited, Excellent grip of acid and tannin. Rounded and balanced and very granitic land in Les Chaillots. long, with fruit shining on the finish. “..oodles of blackberry fruit, tinged with black olives, spice and a touch of meatiness. . Lovely The grapes are not destemmed, and the wine goes into old 600 depth and grip, along with a subtle hint of oak. This represents very litre demi-muids before being bottled without fining or filtration. good value from an often pricey appellation”, Natasha Hughes, The 2004 is classic, both accessible now and with the ability to Wine & Spirit tasting notes, June 2008. Now-2014 age well in the medium term.

For orders and all enquiries, please contact: Simon Taylor: [email protected] Gordon Coates: [email protected] Phil Hughes: [email protected] Telephone: 01962 712351 Fax: 01962 717545 Email: [email protected] Website: www.stonevine.co.uk No. 13 Humphrey Farms, Hazeley Road, Twyford, Hampshire, SO21 1QA