rack and a front lowrider rack and my bike reached our campsite, the creek rushed nois - that ate up the miles, it still allowed for a was soon equipped with front and rear pan - ily by and we took an afternoon hike in relaxed pace so we could view scenery, gather niers. During these years I was a high-school hopes of seeing the moose that were recent - information, and practice our photography. 6,000 Miles of teacher and having summers off set both my ly introduced in the area. In the evening, we In the 1980s we hosted a French for - wife and I free. The highway beckoned us to were serenaded by the haunting calls of eign student and Lynn wanted to visit his travel by . white-crowned sparrows and Swainson’s home in northern France. I agreed, but My wife Lynn, who was still riding a thrushes. insisted the trip be a bicycle tour. Buoyed by traditional touring bike, joined me for our This was the trip that proved to us that the success of our short Colorado tour, we Adventure first tour in 1990 — four days in the it could be done, and bike touring provided a planned the France trip for 1992. We Colorado Rockies. As with all our trips it new outlet for our love of camping and papered our bedroom walls with northern was a self-contained tour. By starting on human-powered travel. Self-contained tour - France in 1/200,000 scale, studied our While planning for a bike tour down the less important than the experiences enjoyed. rump. By contrast, when I rode my new Trail Ridge Road at 12,000 feet we immedi - ing with front and rear panniers fit well with French, and mapped a route from books on Pacific Coast this summer I reflected on my Although I’ve always ridden upright Infinity long wheelbase recumbent the pain ately enjoyed a spectacular downhill ride, my need for exercise, consumed no gasoline, bike touring in Europe. When the time past self-contained tours. How many miles bikes, I bought my first recumbent in 1989 was nonexistent. I could look comfortably at and for the trip we crossed the Continental produced no pollution, provided great flexi - came, we boxed up our bikes and flew to did they entail, I wondered? After some fig - and found it enhanced my enjoyment of the scenery instead of down at the front Divide twice in 189 miles, camping all three bility, and didn’t strain my limited high- Paris. Our French friends picked us up at uring, the answer turned out to be 6,000 bicycling. When riding my Raleigh road wheel and the miles slipped joyously by. nights. The slow climb from Granby to school teacher’s budget. It also allowed us to Orly Airport and transported us and our big miles, but looking through my logbooks of bike, 10 miles seemed to be my limit before Long wheelbase recumbents are also great Willow Creek Pass was special, with deer meet interesting people and to approach boxes to their home in Vitry en Artois, a each trip I realized that the distance was far pain began in my hands, wrist, neck, and for packing your stuff — I installed a rear and herds of elk near the highway. When we wildlife silently. While traveling at a speed tiny town north of Paris. After we unboxed Story and photos by Chet Rideout and set up our bikes, and still feeling a bit of and was unsure that my bike would be ade - apply to bicycle tourists. jet lag, we gave a bike-touring primer to our quate for touring. Because he rides thou - In Durango, we rode the Durango and friend Alain Daval’s grade-school students. sands of miles each year in the mountains of Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad (with our They sent us off on our ride with calls of a Italy, he proved to be a strong rider and an bikes in the baggage ) and snapped pic - courage! enthusiastic companion. He was, however, tures of the scenery as we chugged up the France is a wonderful country for tour - plagued by saddle pain and I believe he would Animas River valley. That night in our camp ing. Small villages are spaced about five miles have been well served by a recumbent. at Silverton, Piero was nervous — the next apart and campgrounds are abundant. It is hard to imagine a greater contrast day we were going to ride over 11,018-foot- Despite dire predictions that we would find between this tour and the one I had taken in high Red Mountain Pass and he had never the French people cold and aloof, we found France. Each day we rode through scenic, biked at anywhere near those elevations in the loaded touring bikes to be magnets to largely unpopulated terrain between camp - Europe. “You won’t have any problem. the locals, who were in turn amazed to find sites. Often 50 miles of hilly riding was not You’re in great shape,” I assured him. “Just we were Americans. They declared the enough to reach our destination, whereas in keep drinking plenty of water and you’ll be recumbent tres bizarre , and the children were France civilization is never more than two or fine.” And so he was. often jumping and dancing when we came three miles away. Here we saw deer, moose, Those thousand miles with Piero into view. Although I had planned on riding and bighorn sheep, whereas in France the seemed magical, imbued with the beauties of perhaps 300 miles per week, we found we largest wild animals we saw were rabbits and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Blue were passing too much history per mile. It hedgehogs. And believe me, in red-rock Mesa Reservoir, North Pass, the Great Sand was here that we learned to slow our pace country there are no cathedrals or art gal - Dunes, and Rocky Mountain National Park. and linger a bit longer. leries to visit! In 1998, with Piero as our guide, we We rode west through Normandy, In Mesa Verde National Park we biked began a tour in Mestre (near Venice) to crossed Brittany, ferried to Belle Isle, and vis - from our campground into the park where Rome. After our first trip, Piero had ited numerous castles along the Loire Valley. we came across a bus tour and asked how we switched to a Speed Ross shortwheelbase We enjoyed visiting with campers from could join. A man told us we had to get tick - recumbent. His doctor had informed him Take your pick. Riding high or laid-back, red-rock country is a great place to ride. France, the Netherlands, Germany, and ets back at the park headquarters; the only that the pain from his saddle during our Switzerland. In five weeks, we rode 1,100 travel through, especially if you don’t know the ultralights above as they buzzed their Piero’s bike. It marked a somewhat odd con - miles before taking the train back for a week the language well. Unlike France, small way south above the coastline. clusion to our ride. in Vitry with our friends. roads are not numbered or marked. After finishing our flat ride across the In June of 2000, Piero again flew to In June of 1994, I read the Fortunately we had Piero, who saved us Po Valley we relaxed at Piero’s home in Denver and we loaded up the car for a long “Companions Wanted” column in from ill-advised detours again and again, Meldol, where we reduced our loads in drive to Jasper, Alberta, 400 miles north of Adventure Cyclist and came upon a listing by often talking to the locals for as many as 15 preparation for climbs in the Apennines and the Canada border. Piero and I were both Piero Tassinari of Meldola, Italy. Piero, a minutes to find the best route. Tuscany. My son Vale joined us for the rest using BOB trailers this tour and we looked grade-school teacher in Italy, had a dream to Emerging from a forest one day we saw of the ride and the four of us rode through forward to an energetic 1,200-mile ride, bicycle tour from Denver to the Grand radio-controlled model airplanes flying above spectacular scenery and thrilling touring averaging around 50 miles per day. Canyon. It turned out to be impossible for the road. These led us to a small airport with country of Florence, Siena, and San The Icefields Parkway through Jasper me in what was left of the summer, but I ultralight aircraft parked on the grass, their Gimignano. and Banff was spectacular but challenging, scheduled a trip from the Grand Canyon to pilots resting in the shade below the wings. The campgrounds in Italy are expensive crossing numerous passes with stiff climbs. Rocky Mountain National Park for the fol - Here we met Roberto who amazed us by – though they are equipped with conven - Signs and brochures about grizzlies were lowing June. In June of 1995, Piero arrived, instantly mastering all three of our loaded ience stores, bars, swimming pools, laun - everywhere and Piero’s pupils seemed to all five foot three inches of him, to ride it recumbents, even my underseat-steered bike dries, and hot showers – so Piero would dilate whenever he saw one of these warn - with me. with a trailer. He was one of the pilots and he often find us cushy lodging in a monastery ings. I comforted him by pointing out that After driving to the start of the tour at offered me a ride on his ultralight. or seminary, which was often less costly. he was only sandwich size for a grizzly, so Grand Canyon Village, we set off. Piero rode His plane had a fixed wing and a wood - Though Tuscany is very scenic and interest - they would probably not be interested. The a mountain bike with front and rear panniers en push prop, with the same triangular steer - ing, we found the cycling difficult, with scenes of glaciers, braided rivers, and lakes and I rode my Infinity long-wheelbase ing apparatus frequently found on hang glid - many steep climbs. Plus, each village is situ - turned turquoise by glacial dust were breath - recumbent with a new BOB trailer to haul ers. After a swift acceleration on the grass ated at the top of a hill! taking. Thundering waterfalls above the my gear. Although my panniers were up to Not for the shy. Recumbents have a way of drawing a crowd. and into the wind, we angled steeply upward Heading south, we rode on paved trails road, certain to have been a tourist treasure the task, I found it put too much weight on high above the trees. Soaring in a loop, I into the city of Rome and the end of our in the lower 48 states, were so plentiful that the rear wheel. With the BOB one-wheel problem was that we had passed the head - Grand Canyon trip was a warning from his could see the blue Adriatic Sea several miles journey. As we approached the Colosseum, they were not even named. When we trailer, however, only about 40 percent of quarters two miles back — in the midlle of battered prostate and that continuing to ride distant. It was a marvelous ride, but after we Piero was pursued by a Roman soldier bran - reached the Columbia Icefields, we could see the load was put on the bicycle. Without the a huge climb. I explained the problem to the an upright bike could destroy it completely. rolled back to the parking lot I had to admit dishing a sword. He was one of the modern- ski tracks in the fresh snow on peaks high front panniers, I also found that wind resist - park ranger leading the tour. “Just get in line Lynn was now also riding a recumbent, a that I was happy to be back on terra firma. day Romans who make their money by pos - above. ance was greatly reduced. at the end of the group,” she said. As I’ve long wheelbase Rans Stratus. Saying our goodbyes, we continued south to ing with tourists in front of the ruins and he Canadian campgrounds are fantastic, Piero had never even seen a recumbent often found, “official rules” don’t always Even with good maps, Italy is difficult to the busy Lido di Valano and saw several of held us hostage until he could test ride being very well maintained, with shelters for

20 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JULY /AUGUST 20 07 ADVENTURECYCLING .ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST JULY /AUGUST 20 07 ADVENTURECYCLING .ORG 21 cooking during wet weather. Tent campsites in for a long wheelbase Vision R40 with better Island, crossing to the Sunshine are often isolated from the noisy motor components. Coast of British Columbia, and biking south; homes and trailers, and often we found From there we headed south, visiting in all, an operation involving 388 miles of hiker/biker sites. After leaving Banff we rode Adventure Cycling headquarters in biking, and nine scenic ferry crossings. south through Kananaskis Country, a very Missoula, and eventually making our way to Although ferry fees can really add up for wild and untrammeled part of Alberta. We Yellowstone and Grand Teton national , tend to be almost as inexpen - crossed Highwood Pass at 7,230 feet, scar - parks to meet my wife with the car and trailer. sive as walking on. ing up a bachelor bighorn herd, and worked In 2004 I retired from teaching and After crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca our way south to Waterton and Glacier. Lynn and I moved from Colorado to Port on the Coho Ferry, we settled into a bed and Waterton Lakes National Park, the Townsend, Washington. Earlier trips breakfast in the quaint town of Victoria. northern portion of the Waterton-Glacier attracted us to the ocean and we hoped to After biking around town for odds and ends International Peace Park, is really a treat. take up sea kayaking during our retirement. on our bikes in the morning, we rolled north Their hiker/biker camp is a rolling grassy Once we got settled, we contacted Piero and on the Galloping Goose Trail, which follows field with picnic tables and lockable storage Ken McKee, a Canadian cyclist who had the roadbed of the former narrow gauge to keep out hungry bears. We spent a rest biked with us on two prior tours. steam train of that name. After two hours of day there, catching up on chores, visiting Piero and Lynn were pulling BOBs, easy riding we reached Schwartz Bay, where restaurants, and touring Waterton Lake on while I was using my new Quik Pak two- we took a small ferry to Saltspring Island, the the commercial launch. wheel trailer. I find that two-wheel trailers largest of the Canadian Gulf Islands. In two The Going to the Sun Road through offer some advantages, such as lower tongue days, we arrived in the town of Ganges on Glacier Park was incredible, and surprisingly weight and better tracking. They’re also Canada Day (July 1), and enjoyed fireworks, easier than the previous day’s ride from much easier to handle in camp and to load in folk singing, dancing, and local humor. Waterton. We were blessed by sunshine the morning. I had also converted my Vision Heading north we found our way and mild temperatures and I became reac - to underseat steering, which I had come to through coastal towns, such as Chemainus quainted with the mountain goats on Logan prefer. and Nanaimo, and at Qualicum Beach, Lynn Pass. I was plagued on the downhill, howev - Leaving Port Townsend, Washington, the coast this far north the water is quite er, by a wobbling wheel with a broken spoke; in late June, we biked to Port Angeles and warm, due to the lack of tidal circulation. In when I stopped for repairs at a Columbia Falls prepared to sail on the Coho Ferry to bike shop I decided to trade my elderly Infinity Victoria. Our plan involved biking north on continued on page 39

2007 BIKE

GIVWin a handmade AmericanEo touring Abike fromWAYCo-Motion Cycles . You will also get a chance to ride your new bike with us on an Adventure Cycling event in the summer of 2008. We’ll draw a winner every month starting February 15, 2007, for additional prizes from Pygmy Pack, Cannondale, Kenda Tires, Arkel, Showers Pass, Old Man Mountain, Ortlieb, Stone Cold Outdoors, Gore Bikewear, and BOB Trailers . Then, on February 15, 2008, we will draw the winner for the grand prize bike and tour. If you are a current member on the respective dates, your name will be included in our 2007 Bike Giveaway drawing. In February, we’ll

E draw a name to win the Co-Motion touring bike and the ACA tour. E L L P I P I S S G G E

E Become a new member or renew your membership now online at: www.adventurecycling.org. You can also R R G G call (800 ) 755 -2453. No purchase necessary. Official rules online at: www.adventurecycling.org/special/ 2007bikegiveawayrules.cfm.

22 ADVENTURE CYCLIST JULY /AUGUST 20 07 ADVENTURECYCLING .ORG continued from page 22

Comox, we rolled onto one of the big Canadian ferries and crossed the Georgia Strait to Powell River, where we had a camping space reserved near the water. Ken and Piero biked north to Lund, which is the northern end of Highway 101, while Lynn and I shopped for a grand AmericaAmerica byby Bicycle,Bicycle, Inc. Inc. supper. Re-entering our campground was HIGHLY IMPACT RESISTANT exciting; a juvenile crow had fallen from its CROSS COUNTRY FACTORY DIRECT: nest near the camp entrance, and as we CHALLENGE as low as entered on foot we were dive bombed June 2 - July 24, 2007 $109. 3,850 miles repeatedly by the irate parents. As we pre - , CA to Maine Reinforced Handholds pared our meal, we had a lively side show "Anti-Drift" H-DESIGN Strap System A ACROSS AMERICA NORTH as more campers, including Ken and June 17 - Aug. 6, 2007 •Designed to Last For Years •All Parts Replaceable June 17 - Aug. 6, 2007 •Optional Wheel Caddy Kit as Low as $35. Piero, experienced this same welcome. 3,600 miles Astoria, OR to Portsmouth, NH Fits All Adult and BMX Bikes • Meets UPS/Airline Specs The ride south on Highway 101 was All Models Collapsible For Easy Storage hilly but scenic, with breathtaking views of Fully Supported 4 OPTIONS: Pro-1: Double-wall Corrugated Bike Box - $109. Pro-XLC: CORR-X® (High Density Polyethylene) Bike Box - $159. lakes and inlets that had been carved by Long Distance OUR BEST SELLER Pro-XLRC: Short Wheel Base Recumbent Bike Box - $159. glaciers. At Ruby Lake Resort we met the Bicycle Tours Pro-XL-TC: TANDEM/LWB Recumbent Bike Box - $299. Italian owner, Georgio Cogrossi, and he and Piero broke joyously into an Italian folk song. Lynn and I crossed the highway and swam like baby seals in the clear waters of Ruby Lake. At Tsawwassen, we boarded the ferry to Schwartz Bay, and halfway across “You’re never alone with Georgia Strait we were treated to the sight America by Bicycle” of a pod of about two dozen killer whales. After a short ride in the rain to the Best 33 TOURS Western hotel in Sidney, and a side trip fromfrom 55 toto 5252 DAYSDAYS for supper, we enjoyed some beer and a 1-888-797-70571-888-797-7057 hot tub. www.abbike.com Our last day involved a sunny ferry ride through the San Juan Islands, a bike UPS-able BICYCLE CARRIER tour south on Fidalgo and Whidbey STILL USING TAPE AND CARDBOARD? Islands, and another ferry to Port PROTECT Townsend. Our heads were swimming YOUR • Used by more athletes worldwide INVESTMENT • 100% Foam encasement system with images, and Lynn remarked, “What • Toughest hardshell available • Rollable, lockable, UPS-able, indestructable a fantastic introduction to the Pacific www.TRICOSPORTS.com 1.800.473.7705 Northwest!”

Chet Rideout last wrote about recumbent bicycles for Maps = Adventure Cycling! Adventure Cyclist in the April 1996 issue.

The maps and books you’ll need to plan your bike vacation, TransAmerica, Great Divide, Lewis & Clark, Underground Railroad and more.

FREE CATALOG (800)721-8719 PO Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807 www.adventurecycling.org

ADVENTURE CYCLIST JULY /AUGUST 20 07 ADVENTURECYCLING .ORG 39