Spain’s Northern Coast & the Bay of Biscay 2017

EXTEND YOUR TRIP

The Island of Madeira, Portugal

Paris, France

Your Travel Handbook CONTENTS

Passport, Visas & Travel Documents ...... 3 Climate ...... 22

Your Passport ...... 3 No Visas Required ...... 3 Aboard Your Ship ...... 25 Trusted Traveler Programs ...... 4 ...... 25 Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents . . . . 4 M/V Corinthian & M/V Clio ...... 27 Overseas Taxes & Fees ...... 4 Ship Specifications

Health ...... 5 About Your Destinations ...... 28 ...... 28 Keep Your Abilities in Mind ...... 5 Your Program Director ...... 32 Health Check ...... 6 Madeira in Brief No Vaccines Required ...... 6 Lisbon in Brief ...... 33 ...... 34 Staying Healthy on Your Trip ...... 6 London in Brief Paris in Brief ...... 35 Shopping ...... 37 Money Matters ...... 8 U .S . Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges ...... 40 Top Three Tips ...... 8 Local Currency ...... 8 How to Exchange Money ...... 9 Demographics & History ...... 42 ATMs ...... 9 Credit & Debit Cards ...... 9 Chip Cards ...... 10 Resources ...... 54 On Board Ship ...... 11 Suggested Readings ...... 54 Tipping Guidelines ...... 11 Suggested Movies ...... 57 Useful Websites ...... 62

Preparing for Your Trip ...... 13

Land Only Travelers ...... 13 Air Inclusive Travelers ...... 13 Optional Tours ...... 14 Communications ...... 14

Packing ...... 16

Your Luggage ...... 17 Clothing Suggestions ...... 17 What to Bring ...... 18 Electricity ...... 20

2 CNL2017 08/21/2017 PASSPORT, VISAS & TRAVEL DOCUMENTS

Your Passport • Must be in good condition

• Must be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S.

• Must have the required number of blank pages (details below)

• The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable

Need to Renew Your Passport? Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport.

Recommended Blank Pages Please confirm that your passport has enough blank pages for this vacation.

• Main trip only: You will need 3 blank “Visa” pages in your passport.

• Pre-trip extension in Madeira, Portugal: Does not need any additional blank pages.

• Post-trip extension to Paris, France: You will need 1 more “Visa” page, for a total of 4.

• Pre- and/or a post-trip extension: You will need 1 more “Visa” page, for a total of 4.

No Visas Required Travelers with a U.S. passport do not need any visas for this vacation, including the optional trip extensions.

Traveling Without a U.S. Passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about visa requirements. We recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www. pvsinternational.org.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 3 Trusted Traveler Programs Some travelers have found that Trusted Traveler programs can expedite long waits at customs when re entering the U.S. There are currently three programs available: Global Entry, NEXUS, and SENTRI. These three programs also include TSA Pre-Check, which allows you to use a dedicated security line at participating airports, or you can apply solely for TSA Pre-Check.

TIP: Keep in mind that not all airports and airlines participate in these programs. You may want to consider checking with your airport prior to applying to find out if these programs would benefit you.

To apply for a Trusted Traveler program or TSA Pre-Check, typically you will be asked to pay an application fee (varies by program) and schedule a background check and/or an interview. If you are approved, you will be issued a Known Traveler Number (KTN). Your KTN is valid for a set number of years, based on the conditions of the program. Please see the U.S. Customs and Border Protection website for more details on each of these programs: www.cbp.gov/ travel/trusted-traveler-programs. You can also find more information about TSA Pre-Check at www.tsa.gov/precheck.

If you are enrolled in TSA Pre-Check (or a Trusted Traveler program that includes it), you must provide your KTN to the airlines.

Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents We recommend you carry color photocopies of key documents including the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, air itinerary, credit cards (front and back), and an alternative form of ID. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals.

If you plan to email this information to yourself, please keep in mind that email is not always secure; consider using password protection or encryption. Also email is not always available worldwide. As an alternative, you could load these documents onto a flash drive instead, which can do double-duty as a place to backup photos during your trip.

Overseas Taxes & Fees This tour may have taxes and fees that cannot be included in your airline ticket price because you are required to pay them in person onsite. All taxes are subject to change without notice and can be paid in cash (either U.S. or local currency). If applicable, you will receive a list of these fees with your Final Documents.

4 CNL2017 08/21/2017 HEALTH

Keep Your Abilities in Mind Please review the information below prior to departing on this vacation. We reserve the right for our Program Directors and Trip Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home if their limitations are impacting the group’s experience.

PACING • 17 days, with 10 nights aboard the M/V Clio or M/V Corinthian, and two three-night hotel stays

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS • Walk 3 miles unassisted and participate in 2 hours of physical activities each day

• Agility, balance, and strength are needed for boarding local tenders and possible rough seas

• Travelers using mobility aids or with medical conditions that might require immediate attention will not be able to board

• We reserve the right for Program Directors to restrict participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their limitations impact the group’s experience

TERRAIN & TRANSPORTATION • Uneven surfaces, including unpaved paths, steep hills, stairs, and cobblestone

• Gangway incline can be steep when docked at a pier

• Travel by 89- or 98-passenger small ship and 33- to 45-seat coach

• You must be cleared by a country’s local port authorities before disembarking

• Weather conditions and tides may require adjustments to your itinerary

CLIMATE • Daytime temperatures range from 60-74°F during cruising season

EXPECTATIONS • Your experiences on our ocean cruise ship, the Corinthian or the M/V Clio, may differ from any past river cruises.

• Our experienced travelers recommend that travelers who are prone to motion sickness should bring medication, because of the possibility of high waves.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 5 Health Check Feeling healthy and confident of your mobility is essential to fully enjoy your trip abroad. If you have ongoing medical conditions or concerns about your health, we highly recommend that you schedule a checkup with your personal physician at least six weeks in advance of your departure date.

• Discuss with your doctor any aspects of your itinerary that may affect your health and be guided by his or her advice. (You can use the “Keep Your Abilities in Mind” on the previous page as a guideline to discuss with him or her.)

• You may want to have a dental exam before your trip. A loose filling or developing cavity would be difficult to remedy while you are traveling.

• If you have a condition that requires special equipment or treatment, you must bring and be responsible for all necessary items related to your condition.

No Vaccines Required At the time of writing there were no required vaccines for this trip. The CDC recommends that all travelers be up to date on their routine vaccinations and on basic travel vaccines like Hepatitis A and Typhoid, but these are suggestions only. However, this could change in future so we encourage you to check with the CDC yourself before meeting with your doctor.

Traveling with Medications • Pack medications in your carry-on bag to avoid loss and to have them handy.

• Keep medicines in their original, labeled containers for a quicker security screen at the airport and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas.

• Bring copies of your prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name to be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications.

We recommend checking this site for medication restrictions by country: http://travel.state. gov/content/passports/english/go/customs.html. (Follow the links to “Local Laws & Special Circumstances” for each country; if you don’t see any medications specifically mentioned, then you can presume major U.S. brands should be OK).

Staying Healthy on Your Trip

Jet Lag Tips • Start your trip well-rested.

• Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane.

• Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule.

6 CNL2017 08/21/2017 • Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during– your flight.

• Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying

• Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane.

• After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap.

• Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day.

• Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.

Allergies If you have any serious allergies or dietary restrictions, we advise you to notify us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-321-2835, and we will communicate them to our regional office. Every effort will be made to accommodate you.

Water • Tap water is safe to drink on this trip; however, it may be processed differently than your tap water at home, so you might not like the taste or it may feel “heavy” in your stomach.

• Bottled water is widely available for sale. Another option is for you to bring a reusable water bottle and fill up on board the ship.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 7 MONEY MATTERS

Top Three Tips • Carry a mix of different types of payments, such as local currency, an ATM card, and a credit card.

• Traveler’s checks are not recommended. They can be difficult to exchange and the commission fee for cashing them is quite high. It’s more practical to view them as a last resort in the event of a special situation.

• It may be helpful to get some local currency before your trip, especially if you are arriving during the weekend or on a bank holiday. However, you may want to avoid bringing 50 pound notes to the U.K. as these are not always accepted at smaller restaurants, cafes or shops.

Local Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to an online converter tool like www.xe.com/ currencyconverter, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.

Euro Countries The euro is the official currency in many member countries of the European Union. Unless otherwise listed, the countries you will be visiting will use the euro. Euro banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 euros

• Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents; 1 and 2 euros

United Kingdom The official currency of the United Kingdom is the pound sterling (GBP). One pound (£1) is divided into 100 pence (100p). This legal tender is used throughout Scotland, England, and Wales. Although the U.K. is part of the European Union, it has not adopted the euro for its currency. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 5, 10, 20, and 50 pounds

• Coins: 1 and 2 pence (copper); 5, 10, 20, and 50 pence (silver); 1 and 2 pounds (silver/ gold)

You may want to avoid 50 pound notes as these are not always accepted at smaller restaurants, cafes or shops.

8 CNL2017 08/21/2017 How to Exchange Money If you want to exchange money before your trip, you can usually do so through your bank or at an exchange office. Your departure airport in the U.S., a travel agent, or an AAA office are also possible outlets. Or you can wait and change money on the trip instead—but it might be helpful to arrive with some local currency in case you run into a bank holiday or an “out of order” ATM.

On your trip, the easiest way is to withdraw funds from a local ATM. The ATM will give you local money and your bank at home will convert that into U.S. dollars.

You can also exchange cash at some hotels, large post offices, and money exchange offices. To exchange cash, you’ll usually need your passport and bills in good condition (not worn, torn, or dirty). New bills (post 2004) are best.

Please note that many banks in Europe will only exchange money for their own customers. Never exchange money on the street. All exchange methods involve fees, which may be built into the conversion rate; ask beforehand.

ATMs When using the ATM, keep in mind that it may only accept cards from local banks, and may not allow cash advances on credit cards; you might need to try more than one ATM or more than one card.

Many banks charge a fee of $1-$5 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart.

Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)

France: ATMs can be found throughout large cities and small towns in France.

Portugal: For the most part, ATMs are widely available in Portugal, especially in larger cities and towns.

Spain: ATMs are widely available throughout Spain, especially in larger cities and towns.

United Kingdom: ATMs are common throughout the United Kingdom so ATM cards will give you a reliable payment method and ready access to local currency.

Credit & Debit Cards Even if you don’t plan on using a credit card during your trip, we still suggest that you bring one or two as a backup, especially if you are planning a large purchase (artwork, jewelry). We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (i.e. Visa, MasterCard, American

08/21/2017 CNL2017 9 Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.

France: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in France. For small purchases or markets, you may need cash instead.

Portugal: Credit cards are widely accepted in Portugal, though may not be accepted for small purchases or at markets.

Spain: Credit card use is fairly common in Spain, but may not be accepted for small purchases or in the markets.

United Kingdom: Visa and MasterCard credit cards are readily accepted (American Express is not commonly honored), but you should always inquire if your type of credit card is accepted before deciding on your purchase.

Chip Cards Many countries are moving to a new type of credit card that has an embedded computer chip. These cards are inserted into the reader instead of swiped. The card owner then authorizes the purchase using a PIN instead of signing.

This new technology is only now gaining traction in the U.S., so occasionally there are machines in Europe that can’t read U.S. cards. Or the machine can read the card, but asks for a PIN. This doesn’t happen often, and is nothing to worry about. You can usually resolve the situation by asking the cashier to let you sign. (If you don’t speak the language, just mime signing on your hand.) Or you can use another form of payment. For example, a debit card that has a PIN.

Notify Card Providers Many credit card companies and banks have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges or withdrawals from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company and/or bank you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure. Some banks or credit card companies will also let you do this online.

You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!

10 CNL2017 08/21/2017 On Board Ship

Two Separate Bills Will be Issued • Shipboard account: This bill is for any on board purchases (drinks, souvenirs, etc.). You can pay this bill by cash or credit/debit card only. For cash, we accept U.S. dollars or Euros (on itineraries in Europe). For credit/debit cards, we accept MasterCard and Visa. Other forms of payment, such as checks, Discover card, or American Express are not accepted.

• Optional tour account: This bill is for any optional tours taken during the trip and is calculated in U.S. dollars. You can pay for this bill by credit/debit card only. We accept MasterCard and Visa credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.) Other forms of payment, such as cash, checks, Discover card, or American Express are not accepted. For more information on optional tours, see the “Optional Tours” section.

Please note: Payments made by credit card may take up to three months to process. We ask that you use a credit card that will not expire until three months after your trip ends. Because our headquarters are in Boston, the charges may appear to be from Boston or might be labeled as “OPT Boston” (depending on your credit card company).

Exchange Services: Policy Update Due to international banking laws, we are no longer able to exchange money onboard the ship. If you need to obtain local currency, please see the “How to Exchange Money” section for helpful tips and information.

Tipping Guidelines Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. But for those of you who have asked for tipping suggestions, we offer these guidelines. To make it easy for you to budget, we have quoted the amounts in U.S. dollars; tips can be converted and paid in local currency or in U.S. dollars. Do not use personal or traveler’s check for tips.

• Grand Circle Program Director/Trip Leader: It is customary to express a personal “thank you” to your GCCL Program Director (sometimes called a Trip Leader) at the end of your trip. As a guideline, many travelers give $8-$12 per traveler for each day their Program Director or Trip Leader is with them. Please note that these tips can only be in the form of cash. If you are taking any of the optional extensions, your Program Director or Trip Leader during the extension(s) may not be the same as the one on your main trip.

• Shipboard: We recommend a flat tip of $16-$18 per traveler, per day. You’ll give this tip once—at the end of you cruise—and it will be pooled among the entire crew. Policy Update: Due to international banking laws, we are no longer able to process crew tips on a credit card; crew tips can only be in the form of cash.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 11 • Housekeeping Staff at Hotels: We recommend $1 per traveler, per day. (This is for hotels only; on the ship Housekeeping are part of crew, so you don’t need to tip them separately.)

• Included in Your Trip Price: Gratuities are included for local guides and motorcoach drivers on your main trip, extensions, and all optional tours.

Time at Leisure When you are exploring on your own, it’s useful to know when to tip and how much, because local customs often differ from the U.S. Here are a few helpful guidelines for the most common services a traveler might use:

• Taxis: In France and Portugal, you should tip a taxi driver about 10% of the fare. The practice of tipping taxi drivers in Spain varies from city to city in some cities it is expect and in others it is discretionary. Your Program Director can advise you what the practice is in each area that you visit.

• Restaurants, cafes, and bars: In France, the tip for the waiter or bartender is usually included in the prices or added on as a service fee. In the rare case when the service is not included, then 10% would be considered generous. In Portugal and Spain, restaurants do not normally include service charges on bills and it is customary to leave a 5%- 10% tip (10% in a better restaurant, less in a humbler establishment). When ordering snack foods or menus del dia, round the bill off to the nearest euro; if you’ve received exceptional service, leave more at your discretion. The waiters in a hotel cocktail lounge can expect a tip of about 60 euro cents. In cafés and bars, leave small tips for barmen and waiters; a few small change coins—less than one euro—is sufficient.

• Public restrooms: Most public restrooms in Europe have attendants that take care of cleaning and supplies. It is customary to leave a small tip for them—usually half a euro—so hold on to those coins! Some restrooms are pay-toilets; you pay the staff at the entrance to the restroom or drop the appropriate coin into the slot on the stall door. Many restaurants, cafes, and shops offer only pay-toilets or reserve their restrooms for patrons only.

12 CNL2017 08/21/2017 PREPARING FOR YOUR TRIP

Land Only Travelers If you plan on booking your own international flights or arranging with our air department to arrive/depart on an earlier/later date than standard for your program, airport transfers will NOT be included in your program price, unless otherwise noted. For eligible flights, transfers may be purchased separately, as an optional add-on, and are subject to availability. To be eligible, your flight(s) must meet the following requirements:

• You must fly into or fly home from the same airport as OAT travelers who purchased included airfare.

• Your flight(s) must arrive/depart on the same day that the group arrives or departs.

To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-321-2835.

Air Inclusive Travelers If you have purchased international air with Grand Circle Cruise Line, there are some points that may be helpful for you to know.

• U.S. Departure: If you are among a group of ten or more travelers who depart the U.S. from your international gateway city, it is our goal to have a Grand Circle Cruise Line representative assist you at the U.S. airport with the check-in of your flight. Unless there are extenuating circumstances beyond our control, the representative will be at the check-in counter three hours before your departure time. If you are flying domestically before your international flight, the representative will be stationed at the check-in counter for your departing international flight, not at the domestic arrival gate.

• Overseas Arrival: Once you arrive overseas, you’ll need to collect your luggage and clear customs. A Grand Circle Cruise Line representative will meet you outside of customs and assist you with your transfer to the hotel or ship. Important note on porters: Airport porters are NOT allowed in the baggage claim area. On arrival, you must take your luggage off the baggage carousel and load it onto a cart, which you will then move through customs. When you exit customs, you’ll handle your cart until reaching your transfer vehicle. Your driver will load your luggage into the transfer vehicle.

• U.S. Return: If you are among a group of ten or more travelers who return to the same U.S. gateway city, a Grand Circle Cruise Line representative will meet you as you exit Customs and help you find taxis, buses, hotel accommodations, or connecting flights. Again, it is our goal to have our representative waiting to assist your group. In rare instances, unforeseen circumstances may prevent this service.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 13 • Flying with a Travel Companion: If you’re traveling with a companion from a different household, and both of you are beginning and ending your trip at the same airport on the same dates, let us know you’d like to travel together and we’ll make every effort to arrange this (please note, however, that this is not always possible). If you request any changes to your flights, please be sure that both you and your companion tell us that you still want to fly together.

Optional Tours Optional tours are additional add-on tours that allow you to personalize your vacation by tailoring it to your tastes and needs. And if you decide not to join an optional tour? Then you’ll have free time to relax or explore on your own—it’s about options, not obligations.

What You Need to Know • All optional tours are subject to change and availability.

• Optional tours that are reserved onsite can be paid for using credit/debit cards only. We accept MasterCard and Visa credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.)

• To ensure that you are charged in U.S. dollars, your payment will be processed by our U.S. headquarters in Boston. This process can take up to three months, so we ask that you only use a card that will still be valid three months after your trip is over. The charge may appear on your credit card statement as being from Boston, MA or may be labeled as “OPT Boston”.

• We will give you details on the optional tours while you’re on the trip. But if you’d like to look over descriptions of them earlier, you can do so at any time by referring to your Day-to-Day Itinerary (available online by signing into My Account at www.gct.com/ myaccount).

Communications

Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone is “unlocked”, meaning it can accept a local SIM card. If your cell is “unlocked” then you will be able to purchase a local SIM for it and then buy minutes with “Pay as You Go” cards, so that you have a local contact number for your friends and family.

14 CNL2017 08/21/2017 Calling Apps Another option is to use a smartphone app like Skype or FaceTime. These services are usually less expensive than making a traditional call, but you’ll need a Wi-Fi connection and the calls may count towards your phone plan’s data allowance. Many smartphones—and some tablets or laptops—come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download them for free from the appropriate apps store.

Calling Cards & 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.). One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.

How to Call Overseas When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. Note that foreign phone numbers may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even within a country the number of digits can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.

France: +33 Spain: +34

Portugal: +351 United Kingdom: +44

08/21/2017 CNL2017 15 PACKING

Luggage Limits

MAIN TRIP LIMITS

Pieces per person One checked bag and one carry-on bag per person .

Weight restrictions Varies by airline . The current standard is 50 lbs for checked bags and 15 lbs for carry-on bags .

Size Restrictions Varies by airline . Measured in linear inches (length+width+depth) . Generally, 62 linear inches is the checked bag limit; carry-on limit is 45 linear inches .

Luggage Type A sturdy, fabric-sided suitcase with built-in wheels and lockable zippers is recommended .

TRIP EXTENSION(S) LIMITS

Same as the main trip .

REMARKS/SUGGESTIONS

One suitcase and one carry-on bag per person: Due to the space limitations on bus transfers, you’ll be restricted to one suitcase and one carry-on bag per person . This is to ensure that we have room for everyone’s luggage . We ask that you abide by this limit to avoid inconveniencing your fellow travelers and prevent additional airlines luggage fees (which are your responsibility) . Most airlines now charge to check more than one suitcase per person .

Luggage rules: Luggage rules and limits are set by governmental and airline policy . Enforcement of the rules may include spot checks or may be inconsistent . However one thing is the same across the board: If you are found to have oversized or overweight luggage, you will be subject to additional fees, to be assessed by—and paid to—the airline in question .

Don’t Forget: • These luggage limits may change. If the airline(s) notify us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet.

• It’s a good idea to reconfirm baggage restrictions and fees directly with the airline a week or so prior to departure. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website in the FAQ section.

16 CNL2017 08/21/2017 • Baggage fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines.

Your Luggage

Checked Luggage Consider a duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap- around handles, built-in wheels, and a heavy duty lockable zipper. Due to space limitations on our motorcoaches, you are allowed one piece of checked luggage per person. Porterage at airports and hotels is provided for one bag per person. All bags should have luggage tags.

Carry-on Bag You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during your daily activities.

Locks For flights that originate in the U.S., you can either use a TSA-approved lock or leave your luggage unlocked. Outside of the U.S. we strongly recommend locking your luggage as a theft-prevention measure.

Clothing Suggestions

Functional Tips • Travel light: A good rule of thumb is to gather together everything you want to bring; then take half of that. Eliminate all but the essentials and start packing a few days before you leave. That way, you’ll have time to think—not fret—about what you might be forgetting. We recommend you pick pack color-coordinated separates that can be mixed to create different outfits.

• Pack casual clothes: Comfortable, informal apparel is perfectly acceptable at each of your destinations. Men do not need jackets or ties and women do not need fancy dresses. You may want one or two “smart casual” outfits for the Welcome Reception or Farewell Dinner, but it’s completely up to you. You would only need nicer dress if you plan to dine at a deluxe city restaurant on your own.

• Keep the weather in mind: Some days may be quite sunny and warm, others may be on the wet and windy side. Pack an assortment of seasonal garments: light pieces and cotton sweaters for daytime; and slacks, long-sleeve shirts, warmer dresses, and a heavy sweater or fleece jacket for evenings.

• Rain gear: Regardless of your month of travel, rainfall is certainly a possibility. We suggest you bring a folding umbrella and waterproof shell. Water-resistant walking shoes are advantageous in case heavy downpours pass through.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 17 • Good walking shoes are essential: For your comfort, you’ll need supportive walking shoes that offer good traction. Water-resistant shoes can be handy in case of a heavy downpour.

What to Bring We have included suggestions from former travelers to help you pack. These lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You may also want to consult the “Climate” chapter of this handbook.

What not to pack: Do not pack aerosol cans, as they tend to leak during air travel. Leave behind any credit cards that are not essential for your trip, valuable jewelry, and anything that you would hate to lose.

Your cabin already has: Shampoo, conditioner, hair dryer, soap, body lotion, shower cap, and towels (Grand Circle Cruise Line owned and operated ships only)

Recommended Clothing ❑❑Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts to layer ❑❑Trousers, jeans, or skirts ❑❑Comfortable walking shoes and/or water resistant shoes ❑❑Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood ❑❑Sleepwear ❑❑Socks and undergarments ❑❑A jacket or sweater, depending on the time of year

Essential Items ❑❑Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, sunscreen, etc.

❑❑Spare eyeglasses/contact lenses and your prescription ❑❑Sunglasses with a neck strap ❑❑Travel money bag or money belt ❑❑Moisturizer, lip balm ❑❑Swimsuit if your hotel has a pool

18 CNL2017 08/21/2017 ❑❑Compact umbrella ❑❑Wide-brim sun hat ❑❑Pocket-size tissues ❑❑Moist towelettes and/or anti-bacterial “waterless” hand cleanser ❑❑Photocopies of passport, air ticket, credit cards (and originals!) ❑❑Written prescriptions for your medicines ❑❑Camera, spare batteries, and memory cards

Medicines ❑❑Your own prescription medicines ❑❑Vitamins ❑❑Cold remedies: Sudafed/ Dristan ❑❑Pain relief: Ibuprofen/naproxen/aspirin ❑❑Laxatives: Senokot/Ex-Lax ❑❑Stomach upset: Pepto-Bismol/Mylanta ❑❑Anti-diarrheal: Imodium ❑❑Band-Aids ❑❑Moleskin foot pads ❑❑Antibiotics: Neosporin/Bacitracin ❑❑Motion sickness medicine, such as Dramamine

Optional Gear ❑❑Travel alarm or watch with alarm ❑❑Compact binoculars ❑❑Hanging toiletry bag with pockets ❑❑Basic sewing kit

08/21/2017 CNL2017 19 ❑❑Hand-wash laundry soap and maybe clothespins/travel clothesline/stopper ❑❑Collapsible walking staff ❑❑Hair dyers: Hair dryers are provided on your ship. During land stays, many hotels will provide hair dryers, but not all. If a hair dryer is essential to you consider a travel-size version.

❑❑Pocket calculator for exchange rates ❑❑Electrical transformer & plug adapters— see “Regional Electricity” ❑❑Travel journal/note pad ❑❑Addresses for postcards ❑❑Reading materials ❑❑Phrase book ❑❑Washcloth (not a standard amenity in Spanish/Portuguese hotels) ❑❑Reusable water bottle

Electricity When traveling overseas, the voltage is usually different and the plugs might not be the same shape.

Voltage Electricity in this region is 220-240 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers—can run off both 110 and 220-240. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)

Aboard the ship, cabins are equipped with 110-volt outlets. In your bathroom you will find a dual 110/220-volt outlet; this outlet is only for low-voltage appliances, like electric shavers. (Your bathroom also comes equipped with a hair dryer).

Plugs Aboard ship, the plugs are standard American plugs.

20 CNL2017 08/21/2017 In hotels, the shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. To plug something from the U.S. into a local socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Because you’ll need multiple adapters on this trip, it may be easier to purchase an all-in-one, universal adapter/converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.

Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:

France: C

Portugal: C and/or F

Spain: C and/or F

United Kingdom: G

Type C Type F Type G

08/21/2017 CNL2017 21 CLIMATE

Lisbon, Portugal: Lisbon is one of the warmest European capitals. Spring and summer months are usually sunny with maximum temperatures close to or above 86 degrees and lows between 59 and 68 degrees. Autumn and winter are typically rainy and windy with some sunny days; the temperature rarely falls below 41 degrees, usually staying at an average of 50. On average, there are 100 days with rain per year. Lisbon’s climate is strongly influenced by the Gulf Stream.

Bordeaux: Known by many as the wine capital of the world, Bordeaux is located near the Atlantic coast of the southwest region of France. It has a similar climate to that of the northwestern coast of North America. The summers and winters are generally mild, and the rainfall is relatively evenly dispersed throughout the year with no real dry season. Typically, winters are short in this region while the summers are long and humid. The average winter and summer temperatures are approximately 45? F and 69? F respectively.

England: The weather across England can be unreliable and unpredictable, with lovely sun- drenched mornings regularly turning into damp, overcast afternoons—and vice versa. Still, legends about incessant rain in England are exaggerated. London, in fact, has less rainfall accumulation than Rome, which is known as a sunny city. It’s just that in London, the rain is spread over more days. The British capital is very much a city of the temperate zone. With occasional exceptions, London’s summers tend to be moderately warm, with few days having temperatures above 75° F; winters as well tend to be moderately cold, with few days dropping below 30° F. Spring and autumn are generally comfortable, with little more than a sweater or light overcoat required. The weather in York is similar.

Paris: The City of Light has about the same weather as our Middle Atlantic States, though it’s usually not warmer than 75° F, or colder than 30° F. The main characteristic of the city’s weather is its changeability. Bright skies can abruptly turn cloudy and a chilly drizzle ensue; then just as quickly as the rain begins it will end.

Another volatile aspect of Parisian weather is the blasts of rapidly moving air—probably the result of a wind tunnel effect caused by the city’s long boulevards being bordered by buildings of uniform height. But other than the occasional winds and rain (which add an undeniable drama to many of the city’s panoramas), Paris offers among the most pleasant weather conditions of any capital in Europe, with a highly tolerable average temperature of 53?.

The early spring can still be on the cool side, but later on in the season, temperatures are usually comfortable, often reaching into the low 60s. Summers are rarely overly warm—the upper 70s is the norm—though a spell of hot weather in the 90s can settle in for a few days, or even a week or two in July and August. Early autumn is slightly cooler, with temperatures edging toward the 50s. By November, it may dip into the 40s. Rain is a common occurrence year-round.

Madeira: This Atlantic island has a year-round subtropical climate. For North Americans, its weather most closely parallels that of coastal California, though Madeira is more humid. The island rarely gets extremely hot, thanks to the cool mountain air that wafts down from

22 CNL2017 08/21/2017 the interior peaks. Most of the rainfall occurs in autumn and winter. Showers can be heavy, but usually are not prolonged. Whatever time of year you go, be aware that it is always much cooler up in the mountains, and that the north coast may be windier than the south.

Coastal France and Spain: You’ll cruise some of the coastal region of the Bay of Biscay – which runs roughly from Bordeaux, France in the north to A Coruna, Spain in the south – with Bilbao at about the halfway mark. The weather can be unpredictable, as the shore has a complex climatic relationship with the Bay of Biscay itself. The best weather is from June to late September, when temperatures range from around the upper 50s for lows and the low 70s for highs. Coastal fogs can arise in June and limit visibility. Light winds with coastal sea and land breezes are common, but occasional storms occur, sometimes with strong winds. In spring and autumn the probability of severe weather rises and November to March has many periods of stormy weather.

Climate Charts & Online Forecast The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to exact weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. An extreme heat wave or cold snap could fall outside these ranges. As your departure approaches, we encourage you to go online to www.gct.com/myaccount for your 10-day forecast.

Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), Humidity & Monthly Rainfall

MONTH LISBON, PORTUGAL BORDEAUX, FRANCE

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall JAN 58 to 47 85 to 72 3 .8 50 to 38 80 to 63 13 FEB 61 to 49 84 to 68 3 .6 53 to 38 79 to 58 11 MAR 65 to 51 83 to 61 2 .0 59 to 42 83 to 58 11 APR 67 to 53 83 to 61 2 .5 63 to 45 84 to 61 13 MAY 71 to 56 82 to 57 2 .2 70 to 52 86 to 61 12 JUN 77 to 61 83 to 54 0 .7 76 to 57 89 to 62 8 JUL 82 to 64 80 to 48 0 .2 80 to 60 90 to 60 7 AUG 82 to 65 80 to 48 0 .3 81 to 60 92 to 61 8 SEP 80 to 63 82 to 51 1 .1 75 to 55 88 to 59 9 OCT 72 to 58 84 to 62 3 .1 67 to 51 83 to 60 11 NOV 64 to 53 86 to 71 4 .2 57 to 43 81 to 62 12 DEC 59 to 49 86 to 75 4 .8 51 to 39 70 to 63 12

08/21/2017 CNL2017 23 MONTH LONDON, ENGLAND PARIS, FRANCE

Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall JAN 45 to 34 90 to 80 23 45 to 37 89 to 79 20 FEB 46 to 34 90 to 74 19 47 to 37 87 to 71 16 MAR 52 to 37 91 to 68 21 54 to 42 87 to 65 18 APR 57 to 39 90 to 60 20 60 to 45 86 to 58 17 MAY 63 to 44 90 to 59 18 67 to 52 86 to 57 16 JUN 69 to 49 90 to 61 18 73 to 57 86 to 58 17 JUL 73 to 53 91 to 59 17 77 to 60 85 to 54 13 AUG 73 to 53 94 to 64 18 77 to 60 87 to 51 12 SEP 59 to 44 93 to 72 21 70 to 55 91 to 59 14 OCT 59 to 44 93 to 72 21 61 to 49 92 to 69 17 NOV 51 to 39 92 to 78 22 51 to 42 91 to 76 17 DEC 46 to 35 90 to 82 22 46 to 38 89 to 81 19

MONTH FUNCHAL, MADEIRA, PORTUGAL

Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall JAN 67 to 56 76 to 70 12 FEB 67 to 55 77 to 69 10 MAR 68 to 56 75 to 67 9 APR 68 to 57 74 to 66 8 MAY 70 to 59 75 to 66 6 JUN 73 to 62 76 to 66 3 JUL 76 to 65 74 to 64 1 AUG 78 to 67 74 to 65 2 SEP 79 to 67 76 to 67 6 OCT 76 to 64 76 to 68 9 NOV 72 to 61 76 to 69 10 DEC 69 to 58 76 to 69 13

24 CNL2017 08/21/2017 ABOARD YOUR SHIP

M/V Corinthian & M/V Clio

Cabin Amenities Your cabin amenities include a private bathroom with shower, hairdryer, TV, in room heating, internal telephones and a mini-refrigerator. Each cabin is appointed with a sitting area, plus the decks and dining rooms are spacious and attractively decorated, providing welcoming locations for relaxing with your traveling companions.

Cabin Assignments You will receive confirmation of your deck and/or cabin category upfront in writing; it will be on your invoice and online in My Account at www.gct.com/myaccount. However, your cabin number may not be assigned until you arrive onboard the ship. (This is normal procedure for many small ships.) If there’s no cabin number on your invoice or online, you can presume it will be assigned later and communicated to you when you board.

Dining All meals are taken in the onboard restaurant, which acts as the ship’s dining room. Meals will be a mix of regional specialties and familiar American standards, and will feature a variety of entrée options including vegetarian. Complimentary beer, wine and soft drinks are served with lunch and dinner. Travelers may also bring a bottle of their own favorite wine to dinner to enjoy at their table. Should you care to avail yourself of this service, there will be a corkage fee of approximately $10 per bottle, charged to your cabin account.

If you require a special diet, please request this in advance, you may do so by contacting one of our Travel Counselors. Dining times will vary according to the scheduled daily activities. In keeping with regional custom, dinner may be served at a later hour (around 7:00 pm) than Americans may be accustomed to.

Electricity Cabins are equipped with 110-volt outlets that are designed to fit American plugs. In your bathroom you will find a dual 110/220-volt outlet, for use with electric shavers. While your bathroom does come equipped with a hairdryer, please do not use any other appliances that heat up, such as hair irons or curlers—they tend to short out.

Getting Ashore Getting from ship to shore during an ocean-going voyage is not the same experience as on a river cruise—it requires more balance and agility, plus there are more formalities.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 25 • Balance and agility are needed: You’ll either walk down a gangway—which can be steep, wet, and slippery—or be shuttled to land in a small boat (a process known as “tendering”). We’ll use the gangway most of the time, but tenders will be used when the ship cannot dock closely enough for the gangway to reach the shore. Tenders can differ in size, and some of them maybe open with no covering. From time to time we will use the ship’s own fleet of Zodiacs—which are small but study open-air boats holding 8-10 people each—as tenders. To get into one of the Zodiacs, you’ll need to go down a steep staircase, and then crew members will assist you as you step from the M/V Corinthian or M/V Clio into the Zodiac.

• Clothing note: Since tenders in general (and the Zodiacs in particular) are small open-air boats, they are more susceptible to being splashed by water. You might want to bring a rain jacket or waterproof cover (like a poncho) to protect your clothing while transferring from ship to shore.

• Expect formalities on arrival in port: When the M/V Corinthian or M/V Clio arrives in a new port, she’ll need to be cleared by the local port authorities before you can leave the ship. In some cases, the wait will be as short as 30 minutes, but other times it may take up to 2 hours. Your crew will do all they can to make the wait as short as possible and to minimize the inconvenience to you. (For example, you will be asked to leave your passport with the front desk when you first embark on the ship. That way, it is on hand if the port authorities ask to see it.) However, the procedure can be complex and may take a while to complete. Typically the authorities work directly with the crew, but they do retain the right to speak with you as well.

Internet Access and Email Limited wireless Internet service is available for free in some of the public spaces, but not in individual cabins. If you want to use the wireless Internet connection you’ll need to bring your own device—a laptop, tablet, MP3 player, smart phone, etc.—because the ship does not rent or loan these devices. Instructions on how to connect will be available at Reception. Please keep in mind that our wireless Internet access onboard is subject to the challenges of travel: ship location, signal availability, and usage volume onboard will affect connectivity and speed. You should expect that there will be times when the wireless Internet is either slow or not available, and that these disruptions can be brief or longer lasting.

Laundry Services There is laundry service available on board, but no dry cleaning. Prices are per piece of clothing and will be provided to you on board.

Medical Services There is always a doctor onboard, as well as all of the basic First Aid supplies. All physician’s fees will be payable directly to the doctor. All specific medicines are the responsibility of each traveler.

26 CNL2017 08/21/2017 Public Spaces Our ship features a library, a lounge with a bar, a dining room, and a sun deck.

Shipboard Payments Payment for shipboard expenses can be made using major credit cards such as Visa and MasterCard. All prices are in U.S. dollars and you will not need a PIN to use your credit card onboard. Personal checks, Discover Card, and American Express are not accepted onboard. Debit cards, including debit cards with credit card functionality (i.e. those with a Visa, MasterCard, etc. logo) cannot be used for payment onboard ship.

Ship-to-Shore Communications The ship has satellite telephone connections which allows you to call anywhere in accordance with the current local tariffs. You can purchase phone cards at the reception desk for $10, which will give you 15-30 minutes’ worth call time to the U.S. (depending on which state you are calling).

Smoking Policy Smoking is prohibited on board, with the exception of two outdoor deck areas reserved for smokers.

Wheelchairs The ship is not built to accommodate wheelchairs.

Ship Specifications

M/V Corinthian • History: Built in 1990; purchased by GCCL in 2014

• Size: 290x50 ft

• Capacity: 98 passengers, 56 crew members

• Layout: 49 cabins, 5 decks; Elevator-yes

M/V Clio • History: Built in 1998; purchased by GCCL in 2015

• Size: 328x46 ft

• Capacity: 89 passengers, 60 crew members

• Layout: 45 cabins, 5 decks; Elevator-yes

08/21/2017 CNL2017 27 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS

Your Program Director Grand Circle Cruise Line is committed to showing you a destination through the perspective of those who live, work, and play there. How better to do that than to have a resident with you every step of the way? We are proud to be the only cruise line to provide you the dedicated services of an expert Program Director, a resident or native of the country who is delighted to share their in-depth knowledge of local history, culture, and hidden gems.

Fluent in English and skilled in fostering camaraderie among travelers, our Program Directors are constantly cited by our travelers are as the main reason they continue to travel with us. During your cruise, you’ll enjoy multiple Program Directors aboard your ship, who will each be with you and your group of no more than 47 travelers throughout your journey—both on ship and on land. And with personal headsets on every included and optional tour, you’ll be able to enjoy their perspective and enthusiasm as you explore at a level deeper than most Americans go.

Language Barrier You can have some great “conversations” with local people who do not speak English, even if you don’t speak a word of the local language. Indeed, this non-verbal communication can be a highly rewarding part of travel. To break the ice, bring along some family photographs, or a few postcards of your hometown. If you want to meet kids, bring a puppet or other interactive toy. Keep in mind, however, that it is always good form to know at least a few words in the local language.

Taking Photographs The etiquette of photographing most people in Europe is about the same as it would be on the streets of your hometown. You need permission to take a close-up, but not for a crowd scene. Be especially polite if you want to photograph children or older women. If you want to shoot a great portrait, show interest in your subject and try to have a bit of social interaction first. Then use sign language to inquire if a picture is OK.

Safety & Security As you travel, exercise the same caution and awareness that you would in a large American city. Don’t be overly nervous or suspicious, but keep your eyes open. If you are venturing out after dark, go with one or two other people.

Carry a one-day supply of cash in your pocket. Carry most of your money, and your passport, in a travel pouch or money belt under your shirt. Replenish your pocket supply when you are in a safe and quiet place, or in our vehicle. Don’t leave valuables unattended in your hotel room. Most hotels will offer use of a hotel safe at the front desk or an electronic in-room safe (for which you can set your own personal number). Please utilize them.

28 CNL2017 08/21/2017 Pickpockets may create a sudden distraction. In any sort of puzzling street situation, try to keep one hand on your wallet or money belt. If an encounter with a local turns out to be long and complicated and involves money or your valuables, be very careful. Con artists sometimes target travelers.

Cuisine in France World renowned for its cuisine, there is no shortage of delightful and delectable things to taste while traveling in France. You could easily spend an entire trip eating your way through the country – and why not?! Each region has its own specialties, from the fresh herbs and citrusy flavors of Provence, to the rich flavors, smoked meats, and red wines of Burgundy, and the cider and pot pies stuffed with chicken and apples in Normandy. In Alsace-Lorraine, look for the famous Quiche Lorraine, a flaky pastry crust filled with eggs, cheese, onions, and bacon. For creamy comfort foods, go to the French Alps where you’ll find a blend of French and Swiss influences – try some fondue,tartiflette (potatoes with cheese, bacon, and onions), or raclette (a type of cheese that is melted over bread, vegetables, potatoes, etc.). And of course, be on the lookout for the dish that Julia Child brought to the United States – Coq-au-Vin, chicken cooked in red wine with mushrooms and onions until it is deliciously tender.

Don’t forget to visit a local pâtisserie to try a pastry (or a few!) while you are in France – no trip is complete without a taste of at least one croissant or pain au chocolat (chocolate-filled croissant). The eclairs are delicious, or if you are feeling particularly indulgent, try a religieuse, two round choux pastries – the same pastry used in eclairs – filled with cream and topped with chocolate, then stacked on top of one another. Go in search of your favorite macaron (not to be confused with a macaroon), a thin cookie that is perfectly cooked on the outside yet moist in the middle and made into a sandwich with a thin layer of jam or creamy filling. You’ll find traditional flavors such as vanilla, chocolate, and lemon, as well as more unique flavors, such as passion fruit tarragon and lavender apricot.

For a quick and tasty treat, find a crêpe stand – some of the classics are sugar and lemon, Nutella (a chocolate hazelnut spread popular throughout Europe), and Nutella with bananas or strawberries. You may find more savory offerings (called galettea or crêpe salée, “salt crêpe”) at a crêperie or some cafés with eggs, cheese, meats, and vegetables.

And of course, cheese. Grab a baguette at your local boulangerie and then head to the fromagerie. With over 350 types of French cheese – from a salty Roquefort, to a mild Comte, a pungent Camembert, or Brillat-Savarin, a truly indulgent triple crème cheese with a vein of black truffle through the middle – there are plenty of opportunities to have a taste. Pair it with the appropriate French wine and enjoy a toast in French – Santé!

Tips for Dining Out in France • Keep in mind that when you go to a restaurant or a café in France, the service may be slower than what you are used to and you will need to ask your server for the bill when you are ready to pay. The French consider it rude to rush their patrons or to present the bill without being asked.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 29 • Tipping is not expected because a service charge is usually included in your bill, though you may consider leaving 1-2 Euros.

• In general, lunch is the main meal of the day, so you may find that some shops, banks, and offices close in the middle of the afternoon for an hour or two.

Cuisine in Portugal Portuguese food is wholesome and rich, with many tasty dishes. Usually well-seasoned, the food is not considered “hot.” Common ingredients include olive oil, garlic, and onions. As anywhere else, menu prices in Portugal vary substantially, but you should be able to get an ample, well-made meal at a reasonable cost. Please note that most restaurants in Portugal will place on your table what appears to be complimentary appetizers, bread, olives, etc. These are not complimentary—once you eat any item, you will be charged.

Entertainment & Recreational Activities in Portugal Casino: One of the most famous casinos in Europe is in Estoril, about a thirty-minute taxi ride from Lisbon (cab fare costing about twenty euros). Lisbon also supports a casino in the Park Das Naccoes. Be sure to bring your passport with you, as it is required for entrance into the casinos.

Getting Around in Portugal Taxi: Portuguese taxis are a convenient but expensive method of transportation for long rides. If you are just going across town, prices are more reasonable. Officially metered taxis are ivory colored or black with green tops. Generally, you should tip a taxi driver approximately 10% of the fare.

Trains: Portugal’s railway system is not extensive, but it does operate between major cities. On all train fares, passengers 65 and older will be given half-rate fares upon presentation of passport.

Remember to purchase your ticket prior to boarding the train. Once on board, you may be asked to show your ticket. If you do not have one, you will be charged a hefty fine! Tickets are not sold on the train.

Cuisine in Spain Spanish cuisine consists of a great variety of dishes which stem from differences in geography, culture and climate. It is heavily influenced by seafood available from the waters that surround the country, and reflects the country’s Mediterranean roots. Spain’s extensive history with many cultural influences has led to a unique cuisine with literally thousands of recipes and flavors.

30 CNL2017 08/21/2017 A significant portion of Spanish cuisine derives from the Jewish and Moorish traditions. The Moors were a strong influence in Spain for many centuries and some of their food is still eaten in Spain today. However, pork is popular and for centuries eating pork was a statement of Christian ethnicity, because it was not eaten by Jews or Muslims.

The essential ingredient for real Spanish cooking is olive oil; Spain accounts for 44% of the global production of olives.

Even today, daily meals are still very often made traditionally by hand, from fresh ingredients bought daily from the local market. This practice is more common in the rural areas and less common in the large urban areas like Madrid, where supermarkets are beginning to displace the open air markets. However, even in Madrid food can be bought from the local shops, bread from the panadería, meat from the carnicería, etc.

One popular custom when going out is to be served tapas which are esentially snacks or apetizers that can be combined to form a meal. Another traditional favorite is the churro with a mug of thick hot chocolate for dipping. Churros are fried dough pastries and Churrerías, or stores that serve churros, are quite common.

Entertainment & Recreational Activities in Spain Casino: There are two casinos in the Costa del Sol area. The main casino is in Benalmadena, and it also features a nightclub and bar. The second casino is in Marbella, just in front of “Puerto Banus.” This casino is about a one-hour drive from Torremolinos. Be sure to bring your passport with you, as it is required for entrance into the casinos.

Bullfighting season: The season starts the end of March and lasts through October. Ticket prices vary according to the seat’s location: near or farther back from the ring, and in the shade or sun. Good seats in the shade run about $50. You do not need to make reservations in advance, unless the bullfighter of the day is famous.

Getting Around in Spain Taxi: Taxis are widely available in the area.

Bus: Generally less expensive than both taxi and train travel, bus travel in Spain has increased in recent years.

Trains: Spain has an extensive railway network linking all major towns and cities, and rail travel in Spain is generally comfortable, reliable and often cheaper than many other European countries. Trains are modern and many are high-speed

Cuisine in Great Britain The area is traditionally known for ‘meat, potatoes and two veg’, meals but these days people in the UK are just as likely to eat Italian, Chinese, Thai, Indian, or junk food (including hamburgers and döner kebabs). Vegetarian is normally available. Fish and chips is another

08/21/2017 CNL2017 31 well-known meal and is usually bought from special shops (chippies) where the cooked food is wrapped and sprinkled with salt and vinegar. There are lots of traditional regional specialties, including haggis, the Scottish national dish which is made of sheep’s stomach stuffed with oatmeal and spices. Haggis is eaten with ‘neeps and tatties’ (turnips and mashed potatoes).

Other regional dishes include Yorkshire pudding (made with flour and water) and roast beef, toad in the hole (sausages in Yorkshire pudding), and a meat or vegetable soup called cawl, which is eaten in Wales.

Madeira in Brief

City Layout and Details As the capital of Madeira, Funchal is the focal point of the entire island. The town has a long street running along the waterfront called Avenida do Mar. This bustling artery runs in an east-west direction. North of this wide boulevard is Avenida Arriaga, which is considered the “main street” of Funchal. At the eastern end of this road is the cathedral, and at the western end is a large traffic circle with a central fountain. As the Avenida Arriaga heads west, it changes its name to Avenida do Infante. As it moves east, it becomes known as Rua do Aljube. Running in a north-south direction, the other most important street is Avenida Zarco, which links the waterfront area with the heart of the old city.

Entertainment & Recreational Activities The Casino Park Complex: This complex, on Avenida do Infante, is a social hub for most island visitors. In addition to its casino featuring gaming rooms open from 4 pm to 3 am, it offers a dance club, panoramic restaurant, and several bars. The casino was designed by Oscar Niemeyer, a principal architect of Brasilia. Other hotel complexes also offer nightclubs with musical entertainment and dancing. If you prefer a quieter ambiance, a sunset stroll through Funchal’s lovely parks and gardens is a fine way to enjoy the evening.

Golf: The Santo da Serra Golf Club, about twelve miles northeast of Funchal, has an 18-hole course and a nine-hole course. The golf course, at more than 2,000 feet above sea level, offers an attractive setting in a wooded area with mimosa and eucalyptus. There is a clubhouse room, as well as a lounge area and bar. This golf club is accessible by public bus or taxi. The Palherio Golf Club offers a basic course.

You should reserve your tee time in advance, and be aware that many weekend tee times may be reserved for local club members. Be sure to ask about the hotel’s special rates and tee times for guests, and be prepared to show your handicap certificate for the 18-hole courses. You can ask you Program Director or hotel concierge for any assistance you need.

Tennis: Public courts are available in the Quinta Magnolia. A fee may be charged.

Walking: Funchal has many parks and gardens that are well maintained and a joy to walk through. The interior is excellent walking country, too—the irrigation channels (levadas) have been mapped out and can make delightful walks.

32 CNL2017 08/21/2017 Local Transportation Taxi: Many travelers rely on taxis to get across town or around the island. Taxis in Funchal usually congregate around the tourist office along Avenida Arriaga. Many taxi drivers speak English. Your hotel concierge can also help with hiring a taxi.

Bus: The most economical way to get around Madeira is by bus (provided you are not pressed for time). Local buses go all over the island. Most buses depart from the large park at the eastern part of the waterfront bordering Avenida do Mar. If you’re headed to Camacha or Camico, you’ll find buses leaving from a little square at the eastern sector of Rua da Alfandega, which runs parallel to Avenida do Mar near the marketplace.

Note on travel time: While actual distances are short on Madeira, allow plenty of time to get to your destination—the winding, mountain roads and narrow town streets all take time to navigate.

Lisbon in Brief

City Layout & Details Lined with restaurants, museums, shops, UNESCO World Heritage sites, and old pastel-colored buildings juxtaposed with modern architecture, Lisbon is a charming city with something to offer for everybody. The people are known for their hospitality and festive spirit which is demonstrated by the various festivals held in the city throughout the year to celebrate film, art, music, and sports, among other things.

The capital city of Portugal, Lisbon is located along the western coast where Tagus River opens into the Atlantic and sprawls across seven hills. Stroll through Belem, a neighborhood on the waterfront, where you will find the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, a beautiful monastery with UNESCO status, and the Museu Coleccao Berardo, a modern art museum. Explore the historic city centre, the Baixa Pombalina, and wander through Chiado to scope out the shops and restaurants. For a taste of the quieter, local life, head to Alfama and meander through the narrow streets - be sure to start at the top and make your way down to the bottom! Delight your taste buds with a stop at one of the wine bars in Bairro Alto to taste some wine, cheese, and charcuterie.

Local Transportation Lisbon offers multiple forms of public transportation that make it easy to navigate the city. While driving is an option, streets are generally congested and difficult to maneuver, and parking can be extremely hard to find. With the many taxis and means of public transportation available, you will have plenty of options if you do not want to drive.

Metro: There are four main metro lines which are labeled by color: red, green, yellow, and blue. Metro stations will be denoted with “M” signs. Remember to validate your ticket at the station entrance before boarding the metro. A single ride costs approximately 1.40 euros. You can also purchase a 24-hour pass that is valid on all metro lines, as well as trams, funiculars, and buses.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 33 Buses and Trams: Lisbon has an extensive bus and tram system that span the city, making it an easy option while you are exploring. The trams have an old-city charm that has turned the transportation itself into a tourist attraction. Pick up a map from the local tourist office or at your hotel to see all of the routes available to explore.

Funicular: There are four funiculars in Lisbon - the Ascensor do Lavra, the oldest in Lisbon, the Ascensor da Bica, the Ascensor da Gloria, and the Elavador de Santa Justa (the “Elevator of Santa Justa”). Most of the funiculars cost about 3.60 euros for a round trip ticket, except the Santa Justa which is 5 euros.

Taxi: Taxis are plentiful in Lisbon, starting at 2.50 euros during day time hours. Keep in mind that taxis may charge more at night or if you have luggage with you.

Cuisine Seafood is prevalent in the cuisine in Lisbon, as with many coastal cities in Portugal, so you will find that salted cod and other types of fish will be featured on many local menus. Taste one of the region’s specialties, Pulpo a La Gallega, a Galician dish meaning “fair style octopus” because farmers would buy the octopus at the cattle fairs where they sold their products. Traditionally, the octopus is prepared with olive oil, paprika, and potatoes and cooked in large copper cauldrons. Other popular foods include smoked sausages, cheeses (typically made from sheep’s milk), and pastel de nata, a well-known type of custard tart.

London in Brief

City Layout and Details London is frequently described as a “city of villages” that cropped up around the square mile of the first walled Roman city that once stood here. Though most of the walls disappeared long ago, the political autonomy of The City of London still distinguishes it from the surrounding neighborhoods. The City has always been London’s financial center, and it is chock full of tiny lanes and a historic atmosphere. The 32 boroughs of Greater London, which surround The City, comprise over 600 square miles, though thankfully for visitors, the major tourist attractions are relatively close together in the center.

The West End: Stretching from west of the City to Hyde Park is the lively West End, which includes the nation’s thickest grouping of boutiques, stores, restaurants, and theaters. Oxford Street, which runs the length of the West End, vies with nearby Covent Garden and Soho as the most popular site for sightseers and shoppers.

South Kensington and Chelsea: Just beyond the West End, south of Hyde Park, are the stylish residential districts of South Kensington and Chelsea. These areas contain many impressive estates and important city buildings.

34 CNL2017 08/21/2017 The East End: Flanking the City’s eastern side is one of London’s most impoverished areas. Historically, the East End was unappealing because both the prevailing winds and the flow of the River Thames move from west to east. In the plague-ridden days before sewers, life on the “wrong” side of the City was truly perilous for one’s health. Today the East End is still home to indigent immigrants and the capital’s famous Cockneys.

Southwark: The borough of Southwark lies across the river from the City, on the south bank of the Thames. Southwark became notorious as London’s entertainment quarter during Elizabethan times, when theaters and brothels were banned within the City.

Local Transportation Bus and Underground (“tube”): Bus stations and tube stops abound in London, making it relatively easy to get across this vast city. The tube generally runs every few minutes from about 5:30 am to midnight (7:30 am to 11 pm on Sunday). In addition, some lines have an overnight service called “Night Tube” on Fridays and Saturdays. You can pick up a handy tube map, distributed free at all station ticket windows. While London’s comprehensive tube transport network may seem intimidating at first, it is surprisingly easy to navigate, and can feel very familiar after just a few rides. However, be aware that certain stations involve going up and down lengthy stairways; others provide escalators. Hold on to your subway ticket throughout the ride; you must insert it in a turnstile to exit the subway.

Taxicabs: You may opt to take a cab once or twice. Metered cabs may be hailed on the street (when “for hire” sign is lit) or ordered by phone. A 10% to 15% tip is usual for a cab ride. Expect an additional charge for travel after 8 pm, and on weekends.

On Foot: London can be a somewhat confusing city to negotiate. It seems as though no two streets run parallel, and even locals regularly consult maps. But in the winding streets of The City and in the tourist area of the West End, there’s no better way to go. Don’t forget that cars drive on the left, and look both ways before stepping off the curb. Also, cars have the right-of- way over pedestrians; take care even when the light seems to be in your favor.

Paris in Brief

City Layout and Details Paris occupies 432 square miles (six more than San Francisco). In central Paris, the Rive Droite (Right Bank)—the shore to the right as you face downriver—is north of the Seine, while the Rive Gauche (Left Bank) is south of the river. Streets that are more or less parallel to the Seine are numbered from east to west, in the direction in which the river flows. On streets that are perpendicular to the river (or approximately so), the numbering starts at the river; building numbers get higher the farther away from the Seine you go. Thirty-two bridges link the Right and Left banks, some providing access to the two small islands at the heart of the city. This city center, called Ile de la Cité, is the birthplace of Paris and includes the sites of Notre Dame and Ile St. Louis, a moat-guarded isle with 17th-century mansions.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 35 Between 1860 and 1870 Baron Haussmann forever changed the look of Paris by creating the legendary boulevards: boulevards St. Michel, St. Germain, Haussmann, Malesherbes, Sebastopol, Magenta, Voltaire, and Strasbourg. The “main street” on the Right Bank is, of course, the Champs-Elysées, beginning at the Arc de Triomphe and running to the Place de la Concorde. Haussmann also created Avenue de l’Opera (as well as the Opera), and the twelve avenues that radiate star-like from the Arc de Triomphe, giving it its original name of Place de l’Etoile (renamed Place Charles de Gaulle following the general’s death). Today it is often referred to as Place Charles de Gaulle Etoile. Haussmann cleared Ile de la Cité of its medieval buildings, transforming it into a showcase for Notre Dame. Finally, he laid out the two elegant parks on the western and southeastern fringes of the city: Bois de Boulogne and Bois de Vincennes.

Paris has been divided since 1860 into 20 arrondissements (districts), which spiral out from the center of the city like a clockwise snail. Each district has its own city hall, police station, and main post office. All addresses include the arrondissement number (written in Roman or Arabic numerals and followed by “e” or “er”).

Laundry Service Self-service laundromats are available in Paris. The cost is approximately 7 euros to wash and dry one load of clothes. Your hotel also provides laundry services, but the fees are very high. It’s much less expensive to launder your clothes yourself.

Main Attractions Now many attractions allow you to purchase tickets online and in advance. More specifically, Eiffel Tower tickets can be purchased online at http://www.toureiffel.paris/en.html. Purchasing a ticket may be beneficial in the long run; however it must be purchased for a specific date and time. Tickets that are past their assigned day and time stamp cannot be transferred or refunded. With that being said, the Eiffel Tower is a very popular destination in Paris and the lines for tickets can be a long wait.

Be aware that a certain number of tickets are held back from online sales, and are sold at the tower itself for same day admission. If the date you wanted was not available online—or you don’t wish to purchase a ticket in advance-you can buy one of these tickets from the booth at the foot of the tower. Same-day tickets can go fast, so we suggest getting there early in the day.

Local Transportation The underground Metro operates from 5:30 am to 1:15 am. It is clean, quiet, and easy to use. The different lines are identified by numbers ands the names of their terminals at either end. Every station has clear directional maps, some with push-button devices that light up the proper route after a destination button is pushed. Keep your ticket (you may need it to exit the station; and you will need it when you exit the RER – the rapid transit network – station). A ten-ticket book (carnet) is available at a reduced rate and is valid for Metro, RER and buses.

36 CNL2017 08/21/2017 Taxis can be found at stands at main intersections, outside railway stations, and in the streets. Fares increase at night. The green light on the roof signifies availability.

Cuisine Paris is one of the culinary capitals of the world. Whether you opt for just a croissant and café au lait or splurge on an epicurean feast, this is the city in which to indulge all your gastronomic dreams. Remember, too, that there is no such thing as “Parisian” food; rather, Paris is the city in which you can try regional delights from Provence, Alsace, Normandy, Brittany, and many other places. Not to mention the vast array of international restaurants that are available, which enable you to choose from virtually every type of cuisine—from superb pasta and Asian stir-fry to exquisite Middle Eastern couscous and Indian curries.

Regardless of the cuisine you select, a meal without wine is like a day without the sun, say the French, who are the greatest producers and the greatest consumers of wine. The general subtlety and quality of French wines cannot be equaled elsewhere. The best-known wines come from Burgundy, Bordeaux, and the Rhône Valley. A very popular and inexpensive red wine, excellent with red meat and most cheeses, is Beaujolais. For a reasonable dry white wine, good with seafood and white meats, try Muscadet or Chablis.

Important Note: Dining out in Paris can be expensive, even at moderate restaurants. Bistros feature a la carte menus and are less expensive. The ubiquitous baguette sandwich is even cheaper still! Your Grand Circle Cruise Line Program Director can advise you on eating establishments that offer good food at the best price, or if you feel like a splurge, on gourmet restaurants that feature fine French cuisine.

Shopping There may be scheduled visits to local shops during your vacation. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. Grand Circle is not responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.

Returns If you discover an issue with an item, you should contact the vendor directly and expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. We recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Keep in mind, local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up or that you are guaranteed a refund.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 37 Crafts & Souvenirs

France Perfumes, fashion, jewelry, art, glass, china, and wine—these are just a few of the many goods for which France is famous. Each region has its own specialties, many of which make their way to Paris, the shopping capital. If time is short, try checking out a big department store, like Galeries Lafayette or Printemps. Or look for the Prisunic and Monoprix chains, which have lower prices and are more for everyday shopping (sort of like the French version of Target).

• Paris: Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, both have flagship stores on the Boulevard Haussmann, near the Opera and the Madeleine. Or, if you’re looking for something in particular, you can head straight to one of the specialized shopping areas. Haute couture can be found in the streets around the Champs Elysées and on Rue du Faubourg St. Honore. The Rue de Paradis is lined with crystal and china shops, and St. Germain des Pres has more than its share of art galleries. For great flea markets, head to the Puces de St. Ouen (near the Porte de Clignancourt)—but keep in mind that most vendors are open limited hours or on the weekends only, so check the hours first. While bargaining is not common in France, it is acceptable at flea markets or occasionally at produce markets.

• Rouen and Normandy: This part of France is best known for its dairy farms and apple orchards, which means a large variety of rich cheeses and apple products, such as apple pastries, hard apple cider, and a type of apple brandy known as calvados. Items with images of the Bayeux Tapestry are popular, as are anything with Joan of Arc (she spent her last days in Rouen). Rouen also claims to have some of the best French macaroons, which are airy meringue cookies with a layer of favored cream in between. Lastly, World War II and D-Day are remembered in books, images, slogans, and more throughout the region.

• Provence: A large selection of local products come from the region’s abundant fields: fragrant lavender, which is used in sachets, beauty products, and even in food; olives for olive oil and tapenade (a spread like humus); grapes for the locally-produced rosé wines; and herbes de provence. The region is also known for its rustic pottery, which usually (but not always) has Provencal designs or symbols on a yellow or tan background. Anything with cicadas is popular, as they are the unoffical mascot of Provence. And don’t forget the table linens, sheets, and handbags in brightly-colored printed fabrics known as indienne patterns—the most sought-after (and expensive) are by Souleiado.

• Nice & the Cote d’Azur: Shopping for both designer names and common brands is a popular pastime on the French Riviera. But there is also a strong local emphasis, with plenty of products from the area available for sale, especially at the colorful open-air markets. In Nice, street market shopping in La Vieille Ville is the least expensive and perhaps the most fun. Rue Massena, Place Magenta, and Rue Paradis are the pedestrian zone of shops and cafés, with Rue Paradis noted for its elegant shops. There’s also a flea market on Quai Lunel, Tuesdays through Saturdays. The avenue Jean Medecin is a prosperous high street with department stores and a pair of shopping malls. A street well worth inclusion on any round of the shops is the rue St. Francois de Paule.

38 CNL2017 08/21/2017 • Monte Carlo and Cannes are world-renowned for their exclusive boutiques selling upscale fashion pieces, pricey jewelry, and all types of accessories. In Antibes and Juan les Pins, you can find everything from trinkets to high fashion.

Value-Added Tax: The French value-added tax (VAT) is typically 19.6% and can be as high as 33.33% on luxury articles. Depending on how much you spend on certain goods, you may be eligible for a partial refund of this tax. Ask the shopkeeper or salesperson at the time of purchase. Be sure to save all receipts for Customs. (Generally, you have to spend over 175€ at the same shop, on the same day, and have filled out a special form for this process.) Note that our ships do not have VAT forms.

Portugal Among the recommended buys in Portugal are Atlantis crystal, Vista Alegre porcelain, pottery, tiles, and gold and silver-filigree jewelry. Other local handicrafts include lace, woodwork, cork products, ceramics, embroidered goods, hand-loomed carpets, hand-knit sweaters, crocheted shawls, brass, copper and pewter ware, and baskets.

Europe Tax-Free Shopping: Many stores in Lisbon and other Portuguese cities have adopted the “Europe Tax-Free Shopping” (ETS) system, which allows foreign shoppers to easily recover the Value Added Tax (IVA)—which can be anywhere from 6%-23% depending on the item. Stores that participate in the ETS system will clearly display an ETS sign at the entrance. If you make a purchase, ask the shopkeeper for a tax-free form. When you depart Europe, you show the airport customs official your purchases and tax-free forms. You will then receive a cash refund or a credit to your credit card, approximately four weeks following your return to the U.S., for the total amount of your tax-free allowance.

Spain Leather goods, from supple suede gloves and elegant calf handbags to wineskins that require careful curing (botas), are excellent purchases. Other good buys are shoes, from classical calf pumps to provincial cloth espadrilles; porcelain by Lladro and pottery by regional craftsmen; and wool rugs made by tapestry makers or simple cotton-rag throws.

Siesta: Throughout Spain, most stores and offices close between 1:30 pm and 5 pm. Then they reopen until 7:30 pm (many close even later). Restaurants generally remain open during siesta. In the larger cities you may find that big department stores will stay open from 10am – 10pm.

Value Added Tax: Known in Spain as the IVA, Value Added Tax is levied on most articles, services, and meals. The IVA ranges from 7% to 21% (luxury items, cars). Depending on how much you spend on certain goods, you may be eligible for a partial refund of this tax. Ask the shopkeeper or salesperson about the VAT at time of purchase. Be sure to save all receipts and forms for Customs.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 39 United Kingdom Different parts of the United Kingdom (UK) are known for different specialties. Even if your trip only takes you to one part of the country, you’ll find these items for sale throughout.

England: Popular items include Liberty silks, Crunchie candy bars, hats and fascinators, Wedgwood china, orange marmalade, Woods of Windsor soaps and lotions, soccer team shirts, Wellington boots, Burberry trench coats, books by British authors, Earl Grey tea…the list is endless.

In addition, there’s a wide range of souvenirs—tee shirts, magnets, coffee mugs, and so forth—embellished with British icons or famous slogans. Look for anything with the royal family, the Union Jack flag, the London Tube map, or vintage slogans from World War II (for example, “Keep Calm and Carry On”, or “Loose Lips Sink Battleships”).

Scotland: Scotland has many fine local products to choose from, including shortbread, handmade soaps, Celtic jewelry, and bagpipes. There’s all manner of souvenirs with the Scottish flag, golf symbols (the game as invented in Scotland) and Nessie, the Lock Ness monster. And of course, there’s whisky (without an “e”), which is so synonymous with Scotland that many Americans call it “scotch”.

Many of the best souvenirs are wearable, which makes sense as Scotland is known for its fabrics—stout tweeds, quality woolens, and colorful tartans. Although most people think of the kilt as the be-all of traditional Scottish garments, the full outfit for a man actually has many elements, including a sporran (pouch), sgian-dubh (small ceremonial knife – which might be hard to get back to the U.S. in your luggage), and jaunty knee-high socks. Although women did not wear kilts, they did wear tartan skirts and specialized shoes known as ghillie boots. If you don’t feel like an all-out traditional outfit, then smaller items in tartan, like scarves, are a nice alternative.

U.S. Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.

The top three points to know are:

• At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees.

• Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S. Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to- door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need to arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties.

40 CNL2017 08/21/2017 • It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 41 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY

Europe

France

Facts & Figures • Area: 248,573 square miles

• Capital: Paris

• Language: French

• Location: France is a large country, two and a half times as big as Great Britain, extending for some 600 miles from north to south and from east to west. It has coastlines on both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Its southern land border is Spain; to the north are Belgium, Luxembourg, and Germany; to the east are Switzerland and Italy.

• Geography: Except for extreme northern France, which is part of the Flanders plain, the country may be described as four river basins and a plateau. Three of the streams flow west—the Seine into the English Channel, the Loire into the Atlantic, and the Garonne into the Bay of Biscay. The Rhône flows south into the Mediterranean. For about 100 miles, the Rhine is France’s eastern border. In the Alps, near the Italian and Swiss borders, is Europe’s highest point—Mont Blanc, at 15,781 feet.

• Population: 66,836,154

• Religion: Roman Catholic 63-66%, Muslim 7-9%, Jewish .5-.75%, Buddhist .5-.75%, other .5-1.0%, none 23-28%

• Time Zone: France is on Central European Time, six hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is noon in Paris. Daylight Saving Time begins the last weekend in March and ends the last weekend in October.

National Holidays: France

In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/08 World War II Victory Day France celebrates a number of national 07/14 Bastille Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Whit Monday. To find out if 08/15 Assumption of Mary you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/ 11/01 All Saints’ Day holidays. 11/11 Armistice Day 01/01 New Year´s Day 12/25 Christmas Day 05/01 Labor Day

42 CNL2017 08/21/2017 Historical Overview of France France has been inhabited since prehistoric times, as is evidenced by the Lascaux cave paintings in the Dordogne that date back about 25,000 years. By 10,000 B.C., human communities had migrated across the whole of France. After the ice cap receded, the climate became warmer and wetter, and by about 7000 B.C., farming and pastoral communities were springing up. By 2000 B.C., copper made its debut, and by 1800 B.C., the Bronze Age had arrived in the southeast of the country. Trade links with Spain, central Europe, and Wessex in Britain were soon established.

When the Celts journeyed to the land they called Gaul sometime before the 7th century B.C., it was occupied by Iberians and Ligurians. Greeks colonized the area around Marseille—which they called Massilia—founding the oldest city in France. And Julius Caesar conquered Gaul for Rome in 57-52 B.C. Lutecia, later to become Paris, was built by the Gallo-Romans in 52 B.C., and the great Roman Amphitheater at Arles was built in 46 B.C. During the 5th century A.D., Germanic tribes invaded, especially the Franks, who converted to Christianity under Clovis I and established the kingdom that became known as France.

On Christmas Day, 800, Charlemagne, king of the Franks, was crowned by the pope in Rome as Holy Roman Emperor, inspiring a unified national spirit across all of France. Although Charlemagne’s empire was not long-lasting, it left an indelible imprint upon the French consciousness, even though the vulnerability of successive rulers allowed regional princes, such as the dukes of Burgundy and Normandy, to amass tremendous power. In 987, however, the French nobility elected Hugh Capet king of France, and from this point, French national history is generally agreed to begin. Capet helped to centralize the monarchy, led the Crusades and wars with England, and instituted the Capetian dynasty.

During the 12th and 13th centuries, trade prospered, craft guilds were founded, and new towns cropped up. Paris grew in importance as the royal city and as the intellectual mecca of Europe; the newly established Sorbonne (1257) drew such teachers, lecturers, and philosophers as Abelard, Albertus Magnus, and Thomas Aquinas.

Unfortunately, this era of accomplishment and peace was followed by the destruction and bloodshed of the Hundred Years War of 1337-1453. At its core, the war was essentially a dynastic struggle with England, whose Norman kings held vast feudal estates in France. The series of wars ultimately benefited France, by forcing out the English and intensifying the strength of the French monarchy. Once again, as in the days of Charlemagne, the French throne exuded a powerful, almost mystic aura, this time with the aid of Joan of Arc, whose divine voices urged her to lead the French to victory at Orleans in 1429 and to champion Charles VII as king of France.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, the Valois and Bourbon kings continued to fortify the royal authority, moving the country toward absolute monarchy. The ironclad rule of Cardinals Richelieu and Mazarin (1624-61) set the stage for their splendid successor, Louis XIV, whose reign was probably unequaled in the history of Europe for its elaborate and magnificent style. He established the Baroque power base of Versailles and introduced Europe to a gloriously

08/21/2017 CNL2017 43 gilded France—so resplendent that it earned him the title of the Sun King. His was an age of brilliant achievements in art and literature, making France indisputably the intellectual capital of Europe. French became the international language for more than a century afterward.

Ironically, the very splendor of the French monarchy helped precipitate its downfall, for it was expensive to maintain and someone had to pay. The major cause of the French Revolution was the system of special privileges that exempted nobles and clergy from the taxes paid by the peasants and the middle class. In 1789, these latter groups rebelled against the monarchy, guillotined both the king and his queen, (Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette), and established the short-lived First Republic. The chaos that followed the revolution resulted in the rise of Napoleon, who proclaimed himself emperor in 1804 and, though a dictator, undertook to spread the ideal of liberty to the world through his conquests. After his fall in 1814, the monarchy was restored.

In the 19th century, France alternated between democracy and dictatorship and was characterized by the steady growth of a new French Empire. A revolution in 1848 established a Second Republic, which was superseded by the dictatorship of Napoleon III, nephew of the emperor. Finally, a Third Republic was founded in 1870, during which the Impressionist school of painting emerged, as well as the Modernist movement of music and poetry, heralded by composers Ravel and Debussy and poets Mallarme and Verlaine.

From 1914-18, France fought with the Allies in World War I. Afterwards, with the Treaty of Versailles (1919), France regained the areas of Alsace and Lorraine. Between wars, France nourished major artistic and philosophical movements: Constructivism, Dadaism, Surrealism, and Existentialism.

At the beginning of World War II, France sided with the Allies until it was invaded and defeated by Germany in 1940. The French government, under Marshal Philippe Petain, a World War I hero, established a puppet government in the Vichy. On D-Day—June 6, 1944—the Allies landed on the beaches of Normandy and successfully invaded France. Additional Allied forces landed in Provence. Paris was liberated in August 1944, and France immediately declared full allegiance to the Allies. A provisional government then took power under General, Charles de Gaulle.

After World War II, the Fourth Republic was created; it collapsed in 1958 under the pressure of a revolution in Algeria. A Fifth Republic, engineered by de Gaulle, was formed, and under a new constitution, De Gaulle became the first president. He resigned in 1969, after widespread disturbances were begun by student riots in Paris. In 1981, Francois Mitterrand was elected the first Socialist president of France since World War II. He was reelected to a second term in 1988. In 1995, Jacques Chirac, mayor of Paris, was elected president.

France made international headlines on the technological front in 1990, when its new TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) clocked a world record of 322 mph on a practice run. Today, the TGV operates daily service between a number of destinations. In 1997, the world’s largest library, the Bibliotheque Nationale Francois Mitterrand, was inaugurated in Paris, and in 1998, France hosted and won the soccer World Cup, amid enthusiastic crowds the likes of which had not

44 CNL2017 08/21/2017 been seen since the end of the war. In 1999, France launched the euro—the single European currency—on prices in shops and restaurants (the actual euro bills and coins were introduced in January 2002).

Despite its many modern advances, however, visitors can, for the most part, still see the country’s past. The French preserve their old buildings well, be they the royal chateaux of Blois and Chambord in the Loire Valley or the splendid cathedrals of Chartres and Reims. The landscapes of France are captivating, from the rugged Pyrenees mountains of southern France, and the snow-covered Alps farther north, to the luxuriant vegetation and posh villas of the sun-kissed Riviera on the Mediterranean coast, to the stark chalk cliffs of Normandy’s beaches.

Two of the most appealing areas in France, Provence and the Riviera, are adjacent to one another. Sunny Provence includes towns unmatched anywhere for their charm and beauty; they are set in the craggy mountains from Avignon southeast to Aix-en-Provence. Just south and west is the Riviera, stretching along the coast from Menton to St. Tropez. This is a region beloved by modern painters like Picasso and Matisse for its dramatic cliffs overlooking the clear blue Mediterranean waters, its quaint bays and fishing villages, and its elegant villas and stylish beaches.

Portugal

Facts & Figures • Area: Portugal contains 35,556 square miles, including the Azores and Madeira islands. The Madeira island group occupies 305 square miles. The main island of Madeira is 35 miles long and about 13 miles across at its widest point.

• Capital: Lisbon

• Language: Portuguese

• Geography: Portugal’s mainland terrain is mountainous, pastoral, and earthy. Its interior moors and flatlands are circumscribed by 500 miles of gorgeous coastline with long stretches of sandy beaches. Madeira consists of two inhabited islands, Madeira and Porto Santo, and two groups of uninhabited islands. The largest island is Madeira. It is volcanic and mountainous, with its highest peaks in the interior rising to over 6,000 feet. The island contains nearly 100 miles of coastline, but no beaches (except one tiny one at Prainha near the eastern tip of the island). The north coast is untamed and less populated; the western end is forested and cool; and the eastern tip consists of barren reddish rock that extends into the blue sea.

• Population: 10,813,834 (2014 estimate)

• Religion: Roman Catholic, 81%, Christian and other, 19%

• Time Zone: Portugal is ahead of U.S. Eastern Time by five hours; Central Time by six hours; Mountain Time by seven hours; Pacific Time by eight hours.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 45 National Holidays: Portugal

In addition to the holidays listed below, 06/10 Portugal Day Portugal celebrates a number of national 08/15 Assumption of Mary holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Corpus Christi. To find out if 10/05 Republic Implantation you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/ 11/01 All Saints’ Day holidays. 12/01 Restoration of Independence 01/01 New Year’s Day 12/08 Feast of the Immaculate Conception 04/25 Liberty Day 12/25 Christmas Day 05/01 Labor Day

Historical Overview of Portugal Portugal’s earliest civilization goes back to 8,000-7,000 B.C. Artifacts of pottery and cave burials indicate that during this time tribes occupied the valley of the Tagus and parts of the Alentejo and Estremadura. Later, Neolithic people built hilltop forts in northern Portugal. Their Castro culture was further developed and refined by the Lusitanians, a Celtic people who arrived around 700 to 600 B.C.

The first traders to establish an outpost on the eastern coast of Portugal were the Phoenicians, who established an outpost at Lisbon around 900 B.C. In the mid-3rd century B.C., they were followed by the Carthaginians, who recruited Celtic tribesmen to fight off the impending threat of the Roman Empire.

From 210 B.C. onward, the Romans colonized most of Iberia, though they were met with great resistance from the Celtiberian tribes of the interior. The Romans had quickly subdued the Mediterranean coast and southern Portugal and Spain, but for some fifty years, Viriatus, a legendary Portuguese hero, held up the Roman advance. By the era of Julius Caesar, however, Portugal, too, had been integrated into the Roman Empire. Colonies included Olisipo (Lisbon), Ebora (Evora), Scallabis (Santarem), and Pax Julia (Beja). Roman ways were adopted, and it is from Latin that the Portuguese language was derived.

Christianity reached Portugal near the end of the 1st century. By the 3rd century, bishoprics had been founded at Lisbon, Braga, and other towns. With the decline of the Roman Empire, Barbarian invaders crossed the Pyrenees into Spain in A.D. 409 and eventually made their way to Portugal. The Visigothic empire dominated the peninsula for some two centuries. However, the Visigothic kings ruled from Toledo, so in Portugal their influence was neither great nor lasting. In 711, a first force of Moorish warriors crossed the straits into Spain, and within a decade, they had advanced and conquered all but the mountainous reaches of the Asturias in northern Spain.

46 CNL2017 08/21/2017 The Moors also quickly took over Portugal, though most of their settlements were contained to the south, where the fertile wheat belts lay. The Moors, in contrast to the Visigoths, were tolerant and productive, their rule a civilizing influence. Both Jews and Christians were allowed freedom of worship and their own civil laws, while under Muslim law small landowners continued to occupy lands that they themselves cultivated. The Moors refined the Roman irrigation techniques and introduced the rotation of crops and cultivation of cotton, rice, oranges, and lemons. Their culture and scholarship led the world—though less from Portugal than from Cordoba and Seville in Spain—and they forged important trade links, many of which were to continue centuries after their fall.

The Christian Reconquest—called the Reconquista— It was during the long period of the Christian reconquest that the Portuguese nation was created (as separate from Spain). Throughout the period of the Reconquest, many Knights from other Christian countries came to offer their aid. Knight Henrique of Burgundy, in particular, fought so courageously that Ferdinand the Great, king of Leon and Castille, awarded him the Territories of Portus and Cale, as well as the hand of one of his daughters in marriage. From their union a son was born, Afonso Henriques, who became the first King of Portugal.

After the death of Knight Henrique, who had always been very independent from the King of Leon and Castille, his son Afonso Henriques proclaimed himself King of Portucale after a winning battle against his mother’s army (she had remained loyal to King of Leon and Castille) in 1143. The Vatican officially endorsed his kingship in 1179. Afonso waged several wars to reclaim lands from the Moors, which were followed by more battles led by his successors— Sancho I, his son, and Afonso II, his grandson. During the reign of Afonso III (1248-1279), the Algarve was finally taken from the Moors, and the capital was moved from Coimbra to Lisbon.

King John I started the second Portuguese Dynasty, called Aviz, after defeating invading Castilian forces at Aljubarrota. He ruled from 1385-1433. His union with Philippa, granddaughter of Edward III of England, produced a son who oversaw the emergence of Portugal as an empire—Prince Henry the Navigator. Under the aegis of Prince Henry, Portuguese ships sailed out along the coast of Africa; the Madeira Islands and the Azores were soon colonized; and a blueprint had been established for continued exploration during the rest of the century. In 1488, Bartolomeu Dias reached the Cape of Good Hope, proving that Asia was accessible by sea. In 1498, Vasco da Gama reached the west coast of India. By the middle of the 16th century, the Portuguese Empire extended to West and East Africa, Brazil, Persia, Indochina, and Malaya. In 1581, Philip II of Spain invaded Portugal and held it for 60 years, precipitating a catastrophic decline in Portuguese commerce. By the time the Portuguese monarchy was restored in 1640, Dutch, English, and French competitors had begun to seize the lion’s share of the world’s colonies and commerce. Portugal retained Angola and Mozambique in Africa, and Brazil (under 1822), but its stronghold in Asia was permanently lost.

After the nationalist revolution in 1640, a descendent of the Braganca noble family became the king of Portugal. Thus began the 4th and final dynasty of Portugal, known as the “Braganca Dynasty,” which lasted into the 20th century. In 1668, the Treaty of Lisbon with Spain gave Portugal recognized independence. Natural disaster struck in 1755, when a terrible earthquake

08/21/2017 CNL2017 47 destroyed virtually all of Lisbon. In six minutes, 15,000 people were killed, thousands while attending morning masses. The city was eventually reconstructed under the Marques de Pombal, adviser to King Jose (1750-77).

In 1807, France invaded Portugal, and the royal family fled to Brazil. British troops arrived under Wellington in 1808, and the Peninsular War began. The French were driven out in 1811, and after a liberal revolution in 1820, the first Portuguese constitution was implemented. King John VI returned from Brazil to resume leadership, and his son Dom Pedro declared independence for Brazil in 1822.

King Carlos ascended the throne in 1889. When Carlos came to power, Portugal’s economy was at an all-time low. The country had lost supremacy of commerce with the colonies and was nearly bankrupt, having barely survived Napoleon’s invasions and the Civil war. The Republicans blamed the monarchy for the country’s situation, and in 1908, Carlos and his heir were shot dead on the streets of Lisbon. The new king, Manoel II, was driven from the throne in the revolution of 1910 and Portugal became a French-style republic. Instability was rampant, however, with revolutions and uprisings occurring two or three times a year.

Traditionally friendly to Britain, Portugal fought in World War I on the Allied side in Africa as well as on the Western Front. Weak postwar governments led to a military coup d’etat in 1926 and the establishment of a dictatorship that lasted for almost 50 years. Antonio Oliveira Salazar had powerful roles first as minister of finance (1928-40) and then premier (1932- 68)—and he ruled Portugal as a virtual dictator. Salazar kept Portugal neutral in World War II, but gave the Allies naval and air bases after 1943. Portugal joined NATO as a founding member in 1949, but did not gain admission to the United Nations until 1955. Salazar suffered a stroke in 1968 and died in 1970.

Portugal has transformed itself politically in recent decades. The consolidation of democracy since the 1974 “carnation revolution” and of EU membership since 1986 has brought Portugal into the European mainstream. This new confidence was shown in 1998 with Expo ’98 in Lisbon; in the same year Jose Saramago was the first Portuguese-language Nobel literature prizewinner. In 1999, Portugal was among the eleven European Union countries that first introduced the Euro.

Of its once extensive territorial possessions, only the Madeira group and the Azores in the Atlantic are still under the flag of Portugal, and even these are essentially self-governing. In 1976, the Azores and Madeira were granted partial autonomy; and all the colonial territories in Africa became independent countries—Angola, the Cape Verde Islands, Portuguese Guinea, Mozambique, and Sao Tome and Principe (islands in the Gulf of Guinea). The Portuguese colony of East Timor in the Indonesian archipelago was also released by Portugal, but was immediately seized by Indonesia. In the last years, it has fought for independence against violent pro-Indonesian militia groups. Portugal assisted the East Timorese in 1999 with an international peacekeeping force. Also in 1999, Portugal and China made an agreement to return the Portuguese territory of Macau (on the south China coast) to Chinese rule, with provisions to insure its autonomy for 50 years after the start of Chinese rule.

48 CNL2017 08/21/2017 Though the country’s worldwide empire has disappeared, its past is still very much alive among the Portuguese people today. The handicrafts, colorful costume, festivals and dances, and splendid restoration of historic buildings reflect a cultural heritage almost unchanged in spite of much evidence of modern progress.

Spain

Facts & Figures • Area: The mainland occupies approximately 195,364.5 square miles. Off Spain’s east coast in the Mediterranean are the Balearic Islands (1,936 square miles), the largest of which is Majorca. Sixty miles west of Africa are the Canary Islands (2,808 square miles).

• Capital: Madrid

• Languages: Spanish, Basque, Catalan, and Galician. In resort areas, many people also speak English, French, and German.

• Geography: Spain’s topography consists of a broad central plateau that slopes to the south and east, crossed by a series of mountain ranges and river valleys. It is a land of both towering peaks and endless beaches, as well as fertile landscapes and high, dry plains. Principal rivers are the Ebro in the northeast, the Tajo in the central region, and the Guadalquivir in the south.

• Population: 47,737,941 (2014 estimate)

• Religions: Roman Catholic 94%, other 6%

• Time Zone: Spain is six hours ahead of U.S. Eastern Time.

National Holidays: Spain

In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/01 Labor Day Spain celebrates a number of national 08/15 Assumption of Mary holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter. To find out if you will be 10/12 Hispanic Day traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 11/01 All Saints Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 12/06 Constitution Day

01/06 Epiphany 12/08 Immaculate Conception

12/25 Christmas

08/21/2017 CNL2017 49 Historical Overview of Spain Archaeological evidence suggests that Paleolithic humans lived in Spain perhaps half a million years ago. By 12,000 B.C., prehistoric man had decorated the Altamira stone caves in the north of Spain with colorful paintings. These prehistoric illustrations are marveled at today for their surprising technical skill.

During the Neolithic period, rudimentary stone megaliths were built by the Iberians, who probably migrated from North Africa across the Strait of Gibraltar about 3000 B.C. The most sophisticated stone pillars, including the Stonehenge-like talayotic monuments on the Balearics, date from 1100 B.C.

It was at around this time, too, that the Phoenicians passed through and established colonies in Andalusia, notably at Cadiz, Malaga, and Tartessus. Greeks, Celts, Carthaginians, Romans, and Visigoths also invaded the country before the Moors conquered all of Spain, except its northernmost region, in A.D. 711. At this pivotal point in history, Spain, which had been a Christian land since the 1st century A.D., was suddenly forced to adopt a Muslim culture. Though the Moors created in Spain an enlightened civilization—which made enormous contributions to architecture, the arts, medicine, science, and higher learning—they were at constant, violent odds with the Christians for the next 700 years. The country’s internal dissension around Spanish Islam invited a steady Christian conquest from the north. Eventually, as the Christian Reconquest pushed southward, only Andalusia remained under Muslim rule. That, too, fell in the late 15th century, when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella drove out the last enclave of Moors from Granada. Once again, Spain was united.

Roman Catholicism was established as the official state religion. A dark period in Spain’s history ensued. The cruel court of the Inquisition, which had been instituted in 1478 by Isabella and Ferdinand, continued on its zealous crusade to discover and punish converted Jews and later Muslims, who were insincere. Christians also were investigated for heresy. The court lasted until 1834. In 1492, the same year as the reconquest of Granada, the Catholic monarchs expelled all Jews who would not convert. Meanwhile, across the Atlantic Ocean, Christopher Columbus, sponsored by the same monarchs, was opening a new era for Spain by discovering America.

In the age of discovery and colonization, Spain amassed tremendous wealth and a vast colonial empire through the conquest of Peru by Pizarro (1532-33) and of Mexico by Cortes (1519-21). The Spanish Hapsburg monarchy became for a time the most powerful in the world. In 1588, Philip II sent his invincible Armada to invade England, but its destruction cost Spain its supremacy on the seas and paved the way for England’s colonization of America.

Spain’s subsequent military losses in the Thirty Years’ War, which ended in 1643, further contributed to its decline as a powerful nation. The War of the Spanish Succession (1701-14) resulted in Spain’s loss of Belgium, Luxembourg, Milan, Sardinia, and Naples. Its colonial empire in the Americas and the Philippines vanished in wars and revolutions during the 18th and 19th centuries. Cuban independence at the end of the Spanish-America War in 1898 spelled the end of the Spanish overseas empire.

50 CNL2017 08/21/2017 In World War I, Spain maintained a position of neutrality. In 1923, King Alfonso XIII appointed a military dictator, General Miguel Primo de Rivera, who modeled his government on Italian Fascism. His regime was so reviled by the masses that he was forced into exile. In 1931, the king was deposed and a second republic established with Manuel Azana as president. The new constitution called for liberal reforms that would redistribute land and diminish the power of the Church. It engendered such right-wing opposition that civil war erupted. Francisco Franco, who had led the victorious Nationalist forces, became dictator of Spain. Under his Fascist regime, Spain remained neutral in World War II. Its cordial relations with Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy caused its exclusion from the UN until 1955.

Political dissent in Spain was suppressed and civil liberties were stifled until Franco’s death of a heart attack in 1975, at which time Juan Carlos I, grandson of Alfonso XIII, ascended the throne and undertook a policy of liberalization. Spain managed a rapid and relatively peaceful transition to democracy under his supervision. In 1982, Spain became a full member of NATO. The same year, Prime Minister Felipe Gonzalez Marquez and his Spanish Socialist Workers Party won a landslide victory in the general election. In 1985, the frontier with Gibraltar, closed since 1968, was reopened, and in 1986, Spain entered the European Union.

Writer Camilo Jose Cela brought Spain great honor in 1989 when he was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature. The country shone in the international spotlight again when it played host in 1992 to two major events of world stature: the Olympic Games in Barcelona and the International Exposition in Seville. Other significant events of the last decade include the Popular Party’s defeat of Gonzalez Marquez in 1996, after 13 years of rule. The same year, Spain issued a warrant for the extradition of former Chilean dictator Augusto Pinochet, charging him with the genocide, torture, and kidnapping of thousands of people, including Spanish nationals, during his 17-year rule. In 1999, Spain adopted the euro as its currency.

United Kingdom

Facts & Figures • Area: 94,525 square miles

• Capital: London, with a separate parliament in Edinburgh for Scotland, a National Assembly in Cardiff for Wales, and a National Assembly for Northern Ireland in Belfast.

• Government: Constitutional monarchy

• Languages: English, Welsh, Gaelic

• Location: Situated off the northwest coast of Europe, the island of Britain is occupied by England, Wales, and Scotland—collectively called Great Britain. Together with Northern Ireland, Great Britain makes up the nation officially called the United Kingdom (UK). England, in the southern part of Britain, is separated from Scotland on the north by the granite Cheviot Hills. To the west along the border of Wales—a land of steep hills and

08/21/2017 CNL2017 51 valleys—are the Cambrian Mountains. To the south of England is the English Channel and to the east is the North Sea, which also washes the eastern coast of Scotland. To the west of England is the Irish Sea, mixed to the north with the Atlantic Ocean.

• Population: Entire UK 64,088,222

• Religions: Christian (Anglican, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Methodist, etc.) 59.5%, Muslim 4.4%, Hindu 1.3%, other 2%, unspecified 7.2%, none 25.7%

• Time zone: Great Britain is five hours ahead of Eastern Time: when it is 6 am in New York, it is 11 am in Wales, England, and Scotland.

National Holidays: United Kingdom

In addition to the holidays listed below, 01/01 New Year´s Day the UK celebrates a number of national 11/30 St. Andrew’s Day (Scotland) holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and the Spring and Summer Bank 12/25 Christmas Day holidays. To find out if you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www. 12/26 Boxing Day timeanddate.com/holidays.

Historical Overview of the United Kingdom The nation officially known today as the “United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland” is home to the four distinct cultures of England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. They are intertwined in a rich pageant of history that has been filled with conflict, but has also produced cultural and political legacies that have had lasting effects far beyond the boundaries of Britain.

England was home to Celtic peoples in prehistoric times, then was ruled by the Roman Empire from about A.D. 43 to A.D. 410. After the fall of Rome, Jutes, Angles, and Saxons established small kingdoms, and Anglo-Saxon fiefdoms whose names still endure, such as Wessex, continued for centuries. King Alfred the Great of Wessex unified much of England against Viking invaders in the late 9th century.

Among the monarchs who have ruled England in the centuries since, some are particularly notable for their lasting impacts on history. William the Conqueror brought Norman rule to England in 1066. Richard the Lionheart embarked on the Third Crusade in 1189. King John was compelled to sign the Magna Carta in 1215, laying the foundation for constitutional monarchy.

English King Edward I conquered Wales in 1283 and sought to rule Scotland as well. The relationship between England and Scotland took many twists and turns over the centuries, with Scottish King James VI becoming King James I of England in 1603 (succeeding Queen Elizabeth I). The United Kingdom came into being with the 1707 Act of Union between the parliaments of England and Scotland.

52 CNL2017 08/21/2017 In the meantime, England under Edward III had fought the Hundred Years’ War with France between 1337 and 1453, with England ultimately losing its possessions on the French side of the Channel. Then, between 1455 and 1485, York and Lancaster battled on English soil in the Wars of the Roses. Henry VIII ruled in the 1530s, and his daughter Elizabeth later became the first Queen Elizabeth, who presided over the cultural flowering of the Elizabethan era (1558-1603).

England fell into civil war between 1642 and 1649, when Oliver Cromwell executed King Charles I and briefly replaced the monarchy with a republic. The monarchy was restored in 1660 with the enthronement of Charles II, though royal power was restored with limitations. The monarchy’s power became even further restricted during the reign of William and Mary, which began in 1689. The first of four King Georges ascended the English throne in 1714, beginning the Georgian Era during which England laid the groundwork for Empire. In the 19th century, the Victorian Era brought the globe-girdling ascendancy of the industrialized British Empire under the long reign of Queen Victoria, from 1837 to 1901.

During the 19th century, the entire island of Ireland was part of the United Kingdom, having been incorporated into the UK in 1801. The Irish however, sought independence, and in 1921, all but the six northern counties of Ulster became the Republic of Ireland—leaving the UK in its present form. In recent years, the desires of the Scots and Welsh for greater autonomy within the UK have led to the process called “devolution.” In 1999, Scotland regained its own parliament (in Edinburgh) and Wales established its own National Assembly in Cardiff.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 53 RESOURCES

Suggested Readings

France Paris to the Moon by Adam Gopnik (Travel Essays) A self-described “comic-sentimental essayist,” Gopnik spent the years from 1995 to 2000 in Paris writing the “Paris Journals” for the New Yorker. Collected here are his most charming, insightful, heartfelt, and humorous dispatches on the Parisian people, culture, food, economy, and lifestyle.

Paris in the Fifties by Stanley Karnow (Memoir) The passions, the jazz, the wine, and the personalities of postwar Paris come to life in this vibrant portrait from a Pulitzer Prize- winning author who was there.

A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway (Memoir) Personal reminiscences and sketches of Paris, which Hemingway created during his time there between 1921 and 1926.

A Traveller’s History of France by Robert Cole (History) Written for the general reader, this 256-page volume begins with the first conquests of ancient Gaul and continues through the Renaissance, the French Revolution, and on through the events of 20th-century French history.

The French by Theodore Zeldin (Culture) A witty survey of the country of France, its people, and all things French. The author draws on comments from French men, women, children, and seniors to answer the questions foreign visitors ask most.

My Life in France by Julia Child with Alex Prud’homme (Memoir) Memoir of the famous chef’s first, formative stay in France in 1949. Child describes herself as a “rather loud and unserious Californian,” without a word of French. She enrolled at the Cordon Bleu and toiled with increasing zeal and competence. With the bestselling Mastering the Art of French Cooking, she revolutionized the American idea of cooking. This memoir recalls gorgeous meals in bygone Parisian restaurants, and reveals the personality and some of the secret arts of a culinary genius.

A Year in Provence and Toujours Provence by Peter Mayle (Memoir) Several years ago, Peter Mayle, an advertising executive, and his wife, a tax inspector, left England and moved to a farmhouse in France’s Luberon Valley. In these two best-selling books, he recounts his humorous attempts to blend into the Provencal lifestyle, as well as maintain his 200-year-old “new” home.

The Magic of Provence: Pleasures of Southern France by Yvone Lenard (Memoir/Travel Essays) This memoir describes a native French woman’s account of living in a hilltop village in Provence, captivated by the food and culture of the region.

54 CNL2017 08/21/2017 Portugal Over the Edge of the World: Magellan’s Terrifying Circumnavigation of the Globe by Laurence Bergreen (Biography) The swashbuckling life of Portugal’s famed navigator Ferdinand Magellan is front and center in this book, which focuses on his famous three-year journey around the world. The same author is releasing a version of this book aimed for young adult readers called simply Over the Edge.

A Concise History of Portugal by David Birmingham (History) This condensed, illustrated history offers an introduction to Portugal’s people, culture, and evolving role in contemporary Europe.

A Cottage in Portugal by Richard and Barbara Hewiit (Travel Narrative) A Massachusetts couple recounts their high-spirited adventures after moving to the Portuguese village of Sintra, where they set out to renovate a 300-year-old cottage.

The Portugal Story by Henry W. Stephens (History) Chronicles three centuries of Portuguese exploration and discovery, and examines Portugal’s impact on the world as the founder of the first extensive overseas empire of the period.

Baltasar and Blimunda by José Saramago (Historical Fiction) Winner of the 1998 Noble Prize in Literature, this historic romance offers detailed insight into what life was like in Portugal in the late 18th century. Set in 1711, in the midst of the terrors of the Inquisition and the plague, it follows a seemingly mismatched couple as they discover the wonders of love.

Spain A Million Steps by Kurt Koontz (Travel Narrative) Follow the author as he walks the Camino de Santiago—a pilgrimage route in Spain that stretches more than 400 miles—a journey that is both physical and spiritual.

The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafon (Fiction) A mix of mystery, romance, and hauntings abound in this international bestseller, set in 1950s Barcelona.

Iberia by James A. Michener (Historical Fiction) Michener’s talented prose imbues his vivid recollections of Spain and poetic interpretations of the country’s art, history, customs, politics, bullfighting, peasant life, and city splendor.

The New Spaniards by John Hooper (Culture) Noted historian John Hooper presents a captivating portrait of modern Spain and its people in this updated 1995 edition of his earlier book.

Don Quixote de la Mancha by Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra (Literature) First published 400 years ago, this classic tells the story of a middle-aged Spanish gentleman who, obsessed with the chivalrous ideals found in romantic books, rides the roads of Spain seeking glory and grand adventure.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 55 Tales of the Alhambra by Washington Irving (Memoir) In this 1829 travel classic, Washington Irving, who was the ambassador to Spain, recounts his experiences as he rode from Seville to Granada on horseback, and also describes his time at the Alhambra, where he lived for several months.

Traveler’s Tales: Spain edited by Lucy McCauley (Anthology) Features intelligent, lyrical musings on all aspects of Spain, written by such luminaries as Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Calvin Trillin, Colm Toibin, and Barbara Kingsolver.

A Traveler’s History of Spain by Juan Lalaguna (History) One of a series of introductory histories for travelers, this book has a dateline format that begins with the earliest settlements on the Iberian Peninsula; continues with the influences of the Romans, Goths, and Muslims; covers the birth and demise of the Empire; and ends with the events of modern day.

United Kingdom All Creatures Great and Small by James Herriot (Memoir) A heart-warming book, in which a veterinarian in Yorkshire shares amusing anecdotes about his dealings with animals and their owners.

The Citadel by A. J. Cronin (Fiction) An absorbing novel about a young doctor’s career, from poverty in Wales to success in London. Basis for the 1938 movie and PBS TV series.

The Ladies of Llangollen by Doris Grumbach (Fiction) The true story of the “Ladies of Llangollen” of the 18th century, who spurned convention and eloped from Ireland to live together in a Welsh village.

Literary London edited and published by Spellmont Ltd (Travel Writing) A collection of descriptions of London locales written by Conan Doyle, Chaucer, T.S. Eliot, Keats, Shaw, Dickens, and a host of other English literary lions.

London by Edward Rutherfurd (Fiction) A very ambitious historical novel of London’s past, which sweeps from Roman times through the medieval, Elizabethan, Victorian, and Edwardian eras on up to the present.

The Matter of Wales: Epic Views of a Small Country by Jan Morris (Travel Writing) This noted travel writer celebrates her native country: Wales.

The Scottish World: History and Culture of Scotland by Harold Orel, et al (Culture) Ten essays seek to show that Scottish culture is distinctly different from English (in its art, architecture, literature, music, and history).

A Traveller’s History of England by Christopher Daniell (History)An entertaining refresher course in English history, from hunter-gatherers to Margaret Thatcher’s resignation. Written by a noted British historian and archaeologist.

56 CNL2017 08/21/2017 Suggested Movies

France Paris Je T’aime (2006, Anthology) An unusual project that strings together 20 short films with only one thing in common—they all take place in Paris. There’s some big names involved, both starring (Steve Buscemi, Juliette Binoche, Nick Nolte, Natalie Portman, Gena Rowlands) and directing (the Coen brothers, Wes Craven, Gerard Depardieu, Gurinder Chadha). Some of the films are in English and some in French with subtitles.

Midnight in Paris (2011, Romantic Comedy) The film follows Gil Pender, a screenwriter, who is confronts the shortcomings of his relationship with his materialistic fiancée. Their divergent goals become increasingly exaggerated as he travels back in time—to Paris of the 1920s—each night at midnight.

Amelie (2001, Romantic Comedy) This quirky gem tells the heartwarming story of a shy waitress in Paris who decides to change the lives of those around her for the better, while struggling with her own isolation. The award-winning film is a whimsical depiction of contemporary Parisian life, sure to capture the hearts of its viewers time and time again.

Charade (1963,Thriller) Newly widowed and broke, Regina Lambert (played by Hepburn) tries to find the fortune her late husband stole—before his partners in crime find it. But can she trust the mysterious man who says he’s trying to help her (Grant)? It’s two great stars, at their best, in Paris.

Julie & Julia (2009, Biopic) Two stories intertwine: “Julia” focuses on Julia Child’s first forays into French cooking while “Julie” is about a modern-day writer’s attempt to make every recipe in Childs’ first cookbook. Although only partly set in France, French cooking plays a key role in almost every scene.

La Vie En Rose (2007, Biopic) In an Oscar-winning performance, Cotillard transforms herself into the famous French singer Edith Piaf for this biopic told as a series of non-linear flashbacks.

A Very Long Engagement (2004, Romance/Mystery) At the end of World War I, five French soldiers are thrown into the no-man’s land between the French and German trenches. All five are declared dead, but Mathilde, the tenacious fiancée of the youngest victim, is convinced that at least one soldier is still alive. Is it her soldier? The film does a good job at balancing the sadness of war with humor, sweetness, mystery, and romance.

Au revoir, les enfants (1987, Drama) This film is about an 11-year-old boy’s experience at a Catholic boarding school during the Nazi occupation of France. Rivals at first, the two students Julien and Jean Bonnet form a bond and eventually become best of friends. Julien learns that Jean is Jewish and the priests at their school are hiding him from the Nazis. On one cold morning in January 1944, the boy’s friendship is cut short by a traumatic moment in history that will never be forgotten.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 57 Jules and Jim (1962, Classic) A classic love triangle that spans decades: Two friends, Jules and Jim, fall in love with the same women, Catherine and an oddly endearing connection in forged between all three. Considered a classic of the French New Wave style, and known for thoughtful insights on friendship, love, and war.

Portugal Lisbon Song (1933, Classic) The story of a young Portuguese student in Lisbon living a casual, bohemian life on the family dime while half-heartedly working toward a degree. Complications arise when his relaxed lifestyle goes bad and his supporters discover that he wasn’t as studious as he led them to believe.

Aniki-Bóbó (1942, Classic) From what looks like a simple story about children (the title is from a children’s rhyme) and their lives, larger adult themes – guilt, sin, desire and jealousy – get played out. Filmed in and around Oporto, the cast is nearly all local children.

Fado, História d’uma Cantadeira (1948, Music/Classic) Loosely based on the life of singing powerhouse Amalia Rodrigues, the film plays out against the taverns, music and lifestyles of Portugal’s passionate artistic society. Rodrigues was a successful singer/actress who brought fado (a traditional style of Portuguese ballad) to a wider audience, and the film showcases several instances of her powerful singing.

Lisbon Story (1994, Drama) A straightforward tale of a German sound engineer who falls in love with Lisbon. Wenders takes you through a city that he obviously loves, offering the beauty of old houses, narrow streets, the sounds of the city, and the lives lived in Portugal’s capital. The musical group Madredeus appear (and perform the movie soundtrack), and the film becomes a love story to city.

Abraham Valley (1993, Drama) A modern Portuguese twist on Madame Bovary—wherein an intelligent woman, brought up in restrictive culture of mid-20th century Portugal, marries a man she does not love and sees no way out. Visually slow and poetic, the film is located on the Portuguese river Douro, and makes good use of the lovely town and landscape.

Chasing Life (2002, Dark Comedy) The worst day ever becomes even worse for a 25-year-old loser. When his life hits bottom he takes his dog’s euthanasia poison to end it all. Then everything changes, and he must desperately find the antidote. The film balances tragedy and comedy, but tilts toward comedy.

Spain The Way (2010, Drama) A grieving father honors his son’s desire to finish the journey of a lifetime by completing the historical pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago. Along the way, he meets other trekkers with their own stories to tell.

All About My Mother (1999, Dark Comedy) When her 17-year-old son is tragically killed in a car accident, Manuela sets out to reconnect with her son’s father and ends up forging new connections with an outrageous transvestite, a pregnant nun, and her son’s favorite actress.

58 CNL2017 08/21/2017 This 1999 Oscar winner for the Best Foreign Language Film is in Spanish with subtitles. (Other well received Almodovar films include Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown and Volver.)

The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie (1972, Classic) A surreal/absurdist classic, this Academy Award winning film begins with four friends who arrive at their hosts’ home only to discover they have all arrived on the wrong night. It’s is a disquieting, yet often very funny, discourse on frustrated appetites, real and imagined. Two things not on the menu: a neat plot line and clear meanings.

The Spirit of the Beehive (1973, Drama) In a small Castilian village in 1940—just after Spain’s devastating civil war—six-year-old Ana sees a traveling movie show of Frankenstein and becomes haunted by her memory of it.

Pan’s Labyrinth (2006, Fantasy) Following Spain’s bloody civil war, young Ofelia enters a world of unimaginable cruelty when she moves in with her new stepfather, a brutal military officer. Armed only with her imagination, Ofelia discovers a labyrinth and a faun who offers her a path to saving herself and her mother. The lines between fantasy and reality begin to blur, and before Ofelia can turn back, she’s at the center of a ferocious battle between good and evil.

Welcome Mr. Marshall! (1953, Drama) News reaches a small Spanish village that “the Americans are coming” to implement the Marshall plan. Anticipating that the American might spend money on the town, they transform it into a folksy Andalusian village with guitar strummers and false building facades to please the visitors—but the results aren’t as expected.

Cria Cuervos (1976, Classic) This film is a portrait of the legacy of fascism and its effects on a middle-class family. The disturbed eight-year-old Ana lives in Madrid with her two sisters and mourns the death of her mother, whom she conjures as a ghost. Shifting between fantasy and reality, it evokes the complex feelings of childhood as well as the struggles of a nation emerging from the shadows.

United Kingdom Mrs. Brown (1997, Drama) After the death of her husband, Queen Victoria plunged herself into an intense grief that only lightened with the help and support of one of her favorite servants, the highlander John Brown. But a friendship between queen and servant is simply “not done”, and the scandal threatens the Queen’s popularity and position. Consider watching this along with Young Victoria, starring Emily Blunt and Rupert Friend (2009, color), for a Victoria double feature.

Gosford Park (2001, Drama) “Upstairs, Downstairs” meets Agatha Christie in this whodunit set in an English country estate in 1932. A powerhouse ensemble cast that includes British stars such as Helen Mirren, Maggie Smith, Michael Gambon, Kristin Scott Thomas, Stephen Fry, Kelly Macdonald, and Clive Owens.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 59 Bend it Like Beckham (2002, Comedy) Showcasing the “new Britain” (a term used to describe modern Britain’s increasing diversity), this light comedy follows Jess, a second-generation Brit of Indian descent who wants to play women’s soccer instead of finding the perfect Indian boyfriend.

84 Charring Cross Road (1984, Drama) When a New York book lover stumbles across an ad for a London bookshop that does mail-order, she begins an unlikely transatlantic friendship with the bookseller, located at 84, Charring Cross Road. Set during the late 1940s through the 1960s, the movie shows the changes in both London and New York over the years.

Shakespeare in Love (1998, Romance) A whimsical “could-have-been” take on how a romance might have inspired Shakespeare to write one of his most famous plays. Although not a true episode in Shakespeare’s life, the film does a good job at mixing the bawdy and humorous spirit of Elizabethan times with a modern romance. Written by Tom Stoppard who has turned to Shakespeare before, turning Hamlet into Rosencrantz & Guildenstern Are Dead.

British TV Known for their dry humor and intriguing mysteries, and well-produced period adaptations, British T.V. shows are a fun way to see the Brits as they see themselves. Most shows are available on DVD, or on BBC America, or though PBS.

• Keeping Up Appearances – (Comedy) Social climber Hyacinth Bucket (that’s pronounced “boo-kay”) drives her long-suffering husband, motley family, and over-awed neighbors crazy with schemes that always spin out of control.

• Monty Python’s Flying Circus – (Comedy) By turns wacky, witty, and surreal, this classic sketch show from the 1970s continues to have a devoted following.

• Inspector Morse – (Mystery) Moody and brilliant, Morse solves complicated murders in Oxford with the help of his more-grounded partner Sergeant Lewis. Recently the ITV/PBS has the Lewis character a promotion and his own series with sidekick: Inspector Lewis.

• Rumpole of the Bailey – (Comedy/Mystery) The great Leo McKern stars as Horace Rumpole, the defense lawyer who never pleads guilty, jokes in the courtroom, and stands up to Her Majesty’s judges, but can’t get anything past She Who Must Be Obeyed, Mrs. Rumpole.

• Prime Suspect – (Mystery) This gritty modern crime drama introduced Helen Mirren to wider audiences as the no-nonsense detective Jane Tennison. The show deals with some dark subject matter, such as crime and alcoholism.

• Masterpiece Classic – (Period/Adaptations) A PBS series that showcases adaptations of literary works, many of which are produced by the BBC. Classic novels by Dickens (Little Dorrit, Bleak House), the Brontes (Jane Eyre, Wuthering Height), and P.G. Wodehouse (Jeeves and Wooster) are well-represented. They also showcase original shows set in bygone eras, like the Edwardian drama Upstairs, Downstairs and the recent hit Downton Abbey, which takes the concept into the countryside and the post-Edwardian era.

60 CNL2017 08/21/2017 Jane Austen Adaptations Although Austen only completed six novels, her work seems to support an entire sub-genre of British movies. Here are some of the standouts:

• Pride & Prejudice – It’s all about who you prefer as Mr. Darcy. The classic 1940 B&W version has Laurence Olivier, the critically-acclaimed 1995 BBC version has Colin Firth, and the lush, romantic 2005 version has Matthew Macfadyen. Choose wisely.

• Emma – Both the 1996 version with Gwyneth Paltrow and the 2009 BBC/PBS version with Romola Garai capture the mayhem of Emma’s bungled attempts at matchmaking.

• Sense & Sensibility – The 2008 BBC/PBS version got good reviews, but the 1996 version with Emma Thompson (as the sensible Elinor) and Kate Winslet (as romantic Marianne) won an Oscar for its screenplay.

• Mansfield Park – Although it strays from the book, the 1999 movie with Frances O’Conner moves the plot along and updates the heroine with a bit of feistiness.

• Northanger Abbey – One of Austen’s lesser-known novels the 2007 BBC/PBS version got high marks for keeping some of the humor and the gothic elements.

• Persuasion – The 1995 version with Amanda Root and Ciaran Hinds is often cited by critics as the best Austen adaptation – true to the original story but easy for modern audiences to follow.

• Additional Inspirations – Austen’s stories have also inspired new stories, such the comedy Bridget Jones’ Diary (inspired by Pride & Prejudice), the lighthearted Jane Austen Book Club, and Becoming Jane, which focuses on a particular chapter of Austen’s early life.

08/21/2017 CNL2017 61 Useful Websites

Grand Circle Forum (tips from previous World Weather travelers) www.intellicast.com www.gct.com/forum www.weather.com www.wunderground.com Grand Circle Shop www.grandcircleshop.com Basic Travel Phrases (80 languages) www.travlang.com/languages International Health Information/CDC (Centers for Disease Control) Packing Tips http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel www.travelite.org

Electricity & Plugs U.S. Customs & Border Protection www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/ www.cbp.gov/travel plugs-and-sockets Transportation Security Administration Foreign Exchange Rates (TSA) www.xe.com/currencyconverter www.tsa.gov www.oanda.com/converter/classic National Passport Information Center ATM Locators www.travel.state.gov www.mastercard.com/atm Holidays Worldwide www.visa.com/atmlocator www.timeanddate.com/holidays

62 CNL2017 08/21/2017 NOTES

08/21/2017 CNL2017 63 For information regarding your existing reservation: Visit www.gct.com/myaccount or call us toll-free at 1-800-321-2835