©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

The

Friesland Northeastern (Fryslân) Netherlands p209 p227

Haarlem & North Holland p113 #_ Amsterdam Central p42 Netherlands Utrecht p241 p145 Rotterdam & South Holland p157 Maastricht & Southeastern Netherlands p262

Nicola Williams, Abigail Blasi, Mark Elliott, Catherine Le Nevez, Virginia Maxwell PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to AMSTERDAM . . . . . 42 Zaanse Schans...... 120 the Netherlands...... 4 Sights...... 43 Waterland ...... 121 The Netherlands Map . . . . 6 Activities...... 79 Volendam...... 123 The Netherlands’ Tours...... 79 Edam ...... 124 Top 10...... 8 Festivals & Events . . . . . 81 Alkmaar...... 125 Need to Know...... 14 Sleeping...... 82 Hoorn...... 129 Enkhuizen ...... 130 What’s New...... 16 Eating...... 88 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 97 Medemblik...... 133 If You Like ...... 17 Entertainment ...... 105 Den Helder ...... 134 Month by Month. . . . . 20 Shopping...... 106 ...... 134 Itineraries ...... 24 Muiden...... 141 Naarden...... 142 Cycling in HAARLEM & the Netherlands...... 27 NORTH HOLLAND . . .113 Flevoland...... 143 Urk ...... 143 Travel with Children. . . . 33 North Holland...... 115 Haarlem...... 115 Regions at a Glance. . . . 38 SARAH COGHILL/LONELY PLANET © GONCHAROVAIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

NOORDERMARKT, AMSTERDAM P109 PXL.STORE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GROTE KERK VAN ST BAVO, RIJKSMUSEUM P70 HAARLEM P115 Contents

UNDERSTAND

UTRECHT...... 145 NORTHEASTERN The Netherlands Today ...... 282 Utrecht City...... 146 NETHERLANDS . . . 227 Amersfoort ...... 155 Groningen Province. . . 228 History...... 285 Groningen...... 229 The Dutch Way ROTTERDAM & Hoogeland...... 237 of Life...... 296 SOUTH HOLLAND. . .. 157 Bourtange...... 238 Dutch Art...... 302 Drenthe Province. . . . 238 South Holland...... 159 Architecture ...... 310 Rotterdam...... 159 Assen...... 238 The Dutch Delfshaven Landscape...... 318 & Schiedam...... 173 CENTRAL Dordrecht ...... 175 NETHERLANDS . . . 241 Dutch Cuisine...... 325 Gouda...... 178 Overijssel...... 243 Den Haag (The Hague) . . . . 181 Deventer ...... 243 SURVIVAL ...... 189 Zwolle...... 245 GUIDE Leiden...... 194 Kampen...... 249 Lisse...... 202 Weerribben-Wieden Zeeland ...... 203 National Park ...... 251 Directory A–Z...... 332 Middelburg ...... 203 Twente...... 252 Transport...... 339 Veere ...... 206 Gelderland...... 253 Domburg...... 206 Nijmegen...... 254 Language...... 346 Waterland Groesbeek...... 257 Index...... 354 Neeltje Jans ...... 207 Arnhem ...... 258 Map Legend...... 359 Schouwen-Duiveland. . . . 208 Hoge Veluwe National Park ...... 260 FRIESLAND (FRYSLÂN) . . . . . 209 MAASTRICHT & Leeuwarden SOUTHEASTERN (Ljouwert)...... 211 NETHERLANDS . . . 262 SPECIAL Waddenzee Coast. . . . 215 Maastricht...... 263 FEATURES Harlingen...... 215 Valkenburg ...... 269 Cycling in Southwestern Roermond...... 270 the Netherlands. . . . . 27 Friesland ...... 217 Noord Brabant . . . . . 270 Sneek (Snits) ...... 217 Travel with Children. . .. 33 Den ...... 270 Hindeloopen (Hylpen). . . 218 Eindhoven...... 276 Cheese, Gin ...... 219 & Monuments Tilburg...... 277 Walking Tour...... 78 ...... 220 ...... 278 ...... 221 Northeast Rotterdam Bergen op Zoom...... 280 Walking Tour. . . . . 166 ...... 224 ...... 225 Dutch Art...... 302 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 24

Itineraries

IJ M E E R

Waterland É #•

Haarlem #• É #_ AMSTERDAM Deventer

Keukenhof Gardens #• #• É

É #• É Den Haag Leiden #• #• Utrecht #• N O R T H (The Hague) Kröller-Müller S E A #•ÉDelft Museum #• Rotterdam

#• Kinderdijk

É É #•

Delta Project #• Den É É É Bergen #• Bosch

op Zoom Breda #• É É Middelburg É #• W E S T E R S C H E L D E

GERMANY

É BELGIUM É

#• Maastricht

3 WEEKS Southern Sojourn

Catch the Netherlands’ most iconic sights on a leisurely spin around the country’s south. Spend the first week in Amsterdam and surrounds; enjoy the classic beauty of the Waterland region by bicycle. In the second week, visit Golden Age Haarlem, Keukenhof Gardens (in season), museum-filled Leiden, the Dutch seat of government Den Haag and charming Delft. At the start of the third week, hit cutting-edge Rotterdam. Ride a waterbus to ad- mire windmills at Kinderdijk, then head for Zeeland’s restored capital Middelburg and the Delta Project. Travel through the southern provinces, breaking in Bergen op Zoom for the country’s oldest surviving city-palace, Breda for café life and Den Bosch for hidden canals. Continue to Maastricht for medieval meanderings and great cuisine. Head north to Hanseatic Deventer, then west to the Kröller-Müller Museum in the Hoge Veluwe National Park. End in historic, cosmopolitan university city Utrecht. 25

Ameland •#Schiermonnikoog Nes N O R T H Terschelling •# f# f# Lauwersoog S E A •# Holwerd •# Oosterend •# É Vlieland f# f# •# É É É

f# TRIP YOUR PLAN #f É •#Leeuwarden •# Texel É •#De Cocksdorp Harlingen

Ecomare •# É WA D D E N Z E E É Den •# Hoorn •# Afsluitdijk f# Oudeschild

•# Den Helder •# Hindeloopen É

IJ S S E L M E E R It

É É i nerar É •#Enkhuizen

•# Alkmaar Houtribdijk

GERMANY i es É Edam •# •# Zwolle •# Marken •#

#_ Waterland Circumnavigating AMSTERDAM É •#Muiden the IJsselmeer Naarden •# Island Escapes

Circumnavigating 2 1 Island Escapes WEEKS the IJsselmeer WEEK

This itinerary focuses on IJsselmeer – the The low-lying Wadden Islands are strung central Netherlands’ vast artificial lake. out like pearls in the Unesco-listed Wad- Spend three days in Amsterdam for denzee and are perfect for island-hopping. museums, parks, canal tours and nightlife. Some ferry links require advance planning. Head north along the IJsselmeer coast From Amsterdam, head to Texel. through the Waterland region to the tiny Bike along the island’s western coast from fishing village of Marken. Cycle the dykes sleepy Den Hoorn through dark copses to Edam with its famous, seasonal cheese to the Ecomare seal and bird refuge. market (July to August). Stay overnight, Comb the eastern side, visiting the superb then reach Alkmaar early to experience Maritime and Beachcombers Museum in its equally riveting, centuries-old cheese Oudeschild. market (April to September). Explore From De Cocksdorp at the northern the enthralling Zuiderzeemuseum in end of Texel, board the morning ferry to Enkhuizen. car-free Vlieland to explore its nature Travel to Den Helder, and take a ferry and hiking trails before catching the boat to Texel. Spend two days on the island, en- to Terschelling, Friesland’s main tourist joying the beach and bike exploration, then island. Hole up in peaceful Oosterend catch a ferry to Vlieland; a seafood lunch and cycle the untouched dunes, then here at uber-fashionable strandpaviljoen hightail it by ferry to Harlingen, a pretty (beach pavilion) Oost is a highlight. From little port on the Frisian coast, and on to Vlieland, sail aboard a ferry to charming Holwerd, to catch the ferry across to lan- Harlingen. From here Friesland’s lively guid Ameland. Stay in the whaling port of capital Leeuwarden is a short train jour- Nes. Return to the mainland and continue ney away, as is the nearby chain of coastal east to the port of Lauwersoog. From towns, including quaint Hindeloopen. here catch the ferry to the smallest of the Head to Hanseatic Zwolle and also visit Frisian Islands, Schiermonnikoog, home the historic fortress towns of Naarden to an evocative, windswept national park, and Muiden. before returning to the mainland. 26

#• Groningen WA D D E N Z E E

É É #• Bourtange

Borger É #•

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN N O R T H #•Kamp IJ S S E L M E E R Weerribben-Wieden S E A National Park Westerbork

÷# É

É

#• Zwolle

AMSTERDAM É Haarlem

É #• #_

It Keukenhof Gardens #• #•Deventer i nerar #•Leiden É Den Haag GERMANY (The Hague) #• ÷#

É Hoge Veluwe É

i es National Rotterdam #• Kinderdijk Park

#• Woudrichem #• #• É Dordrecht ÷# Biesbosch #• Eastern Experience

#• National Heusden É Den Bosch The Lay of the Lowlands Park Oosterschelde

The Lay of the 2 Eastern Experience 1 WEEKS WEEK Lowlands

The Netherlands’ eastern expanse boasts Hit the country’s best highlights. myriad highlights to be discovered. Begin with two days in Amsterdam. Begin in Groningen, a vibrant city with Visit the big-hitting museums and explore students, bars, cafes and fine museums. the charming Jordaan neighbourhood by Travel southeast to Bourtange, a 17th- bike. On your second day board a canal century fortified town, then move on to boat tour, and stroll through the Red Borger and its prehistoric hunebedden Light District before getting cosy in a (stone burial chambers). Make your way to brown cafe. Kamp Westerbork to encounter its mov- Travel west to beautiful Haarlem – ing, horrible heritage. Head to Zwolle, an stroll the compact historic core, and view unhurried Hanseatic town, and then to the masterpieces at the Frans Hals Museum. Weerribben-Wieden National Park, a In tulip season witness the kaleidoscopic unique bog-and-water scape strewn with colours of the Keukenhof Gardens. hiking, biking and canoe-paddling trails. Spend a day among old-world splendour From Zwolle hop to Deventer, one of in Leiden. Next, take a day in Den Haag the Netherlands’ most appealing small and catch the Mauritshuis’ exceptional art towns. Explore Hoge Veluwe National collection. Park by bike, a natural oasis with a re- Head south to happening Rotterdam nowned art museum at its green core. to tour the harbour and visit the Museum Head to Den Bosch and visit its terrific Boijmans van Beuningen, the Maritiem Jheronimus Bosch Art Center, then head Museum and the architecturally striking west to kick back in the fabulous old- food hall, Markthal Rotterdam. The next world villages of Heusden (fortified and morning, take a walking tour of the city’s moat-ringed) and Woudrichem (a citadel incredible contemporary architecture, village). Get lost in nature at your penul- then hop aboard a waterbus and sail to timate stop, Biesbosch National Park, Kinderdijk to explore Unesco-recognised before exploring the picturesque streets windmills – go local and rent wheels in and canals of Dordrecht. Rotterdam or Kinderdijk. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 352

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

recommendations, and to Luca, Gabriel, Benjamin OUR READERS and Alessia for coming along for the ride. Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Mark Elliott advice and interesting anecdotes: Chesara G Belo, A very special thank you to the wonderful Sally Deirdre O’Meara, Hans Deseure, Lucy Connell, Max Cobham for love, company and so much human Muijrers, Roberto Lena, Roëlle de Bruin, Stephen insight. En route, many thanks also to Lucile, Eveline Potts, Tim Lunshof, Willem Linders and Niels in Utrecht; Jennick, Paul, Matt and family at Roermond; Hants van Gils in Breda; Robert Kingsbury in Maasbracht; Sam and Natalie at Koningshoeven; WRITER THANKS Aimée in Tilburg; Marie-Louise in Heusden; Hans, Anja Nicola Williams and Olga at Philips (Eindhoven); Adrien, Joos, Alette, A huge thanks to so many friends and professionals Lisette and ‘Blackbird’ in Den Bosch; and Simone, including: in Groningen, Sara van Geloven Karen and Jan. (editor-in-chief Lonely Planet Magazine NL), Eeflie Smit and Annebel Nillessen Blaauw (Marketing Gro- Catherine Le Nevez ningen) and Nick Nijboer (Mr Mofongo); in Arnhem, Hartelijk bedankt first and foremost to Julian, and to cycling queen Charlie Johnson, adopted local Louise everyone in Amsterdam, Haarlem and North Holland Henstridge (and Sally Dibden for putting me in and beyond who provided insights, inspiration and touch); in Nijmegen, Beppie (VVV) and Nico de Mol good times during this update and over the years. A (Visit Holland); in Leeuwarden, Mariska and huge thanks too to Destination Editor Daniel Fahey Eliszabeth for the lowdown on Frisian culture; in and my Netherlands co-authors, and everyone at LP. Sneek, Yorkshireman-turned-Frisian distiller Steve As ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle- Sibson (Weduwe Joustra) and in Leeuwarden, Femke. sœur, neveu and nièce. Abigail Blasi Virginia Maxwell A big thanks to Daniel Fahey for commissioning me, In the Netherlands, many thanks to Kim Heinen, and Catherine Le Nevez for her support. A massive Annemieke Loef, Renske Satijn, Nina Swaep and dank je to Jo Dufay for sharing her city knowledge Eveline Zoutendijk. At LP’s London office, thanks to and books, to Wouter Steenhuisen and Geerte Dan Fahey and Jennifer Carey. At home in Melbourne, Udo at iAmsterdam, to Esther Nelsey for local thanks and much love to Peter and Max Handsaker. 353 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44.

Cover photograph: Zaanse Schans, North Holland, SCENES THE BEHIND Maurizio Rellini/4Corners ©

THIS BOOK Berkmoes and Karla Book Designer: Gwen Cotter Zimmerman. This guidebook Assisting Editors: Michelle This 7th edition of Lonely was produced by the following: Bennett, Andrea Dobbin, Kellie Planet’s The Netherlands Destination Editor: Langdon, Fionnuala Twomey, guidebook was curated Daniel Fahey Sam Wheeler by Nicola Williams, and Senior Product Editors: Cover Researcher researched and written by Grace Dobell, Genna Patterson Naomi Parker Nicola, Abigail Blasi, Mark Product Editor: Thanks to Jennifer Carey, Elliott, Catherine Le Nevez and Ronan Abayawickrema Hannah Cartmel, Melanie Virginia Maxwell. The previous Dankel, Sandie Kestell, Amy two editions were written Regional Senior Cartographer: Mark Griffiths Lynch, Claire Rourke, James by Catherine and Daniel C Smart, Angela Tinson Schechter, and Ryan Ver Cartographer: James Leversha ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 354

Index

A Hunebedden B bridges 65, 80, 258 accessible travel 332 Centrum 239 Baarle-Nassau 272 Erasmusbrug 159, 317 accommodation 332-3, see architecture 9, 17-18, 100, bargaining 333 John Frostbrug 258 168, 310-17, , , , also individual locations 9 18 310 bathrooms 338 Magere Brug 65 315, 317 activities, see cycling, skating beaches 34, 135, 36 brown cafés 11, 330, 11 area codes 337 agriculture 324, 324 Groningen beach 235 brunch 96 Arnhem 258-60 air travel 339 Scheveningen beach 186 bus travel 340, 342 art 10, 17, 302-9 Alkmaar 125-8, 126 Texel beach 135 business hours 337 art galleries Ameland 224-5 Zwolle beach 248 Bonnefantenmuseum 265 Amersfoort 155-6 beer 328-9 C Frans Hals Museum – cafés 329-30, see also Amsterdam 42-112, 44, Bergen op Zoom 280 Hal 115 brown cafés 48-9, 54, 62-3, 66, 58, Foam 61 bicycle theft 29, 337 70, 72, 74 Canal Ring 9, 8-9 Galerij Prins Willem V 183 bicycle tours 79-80 accommodation 42, 82-8 canals 80 Kade Museum 155 bicycle travel, see cycling activities 79 Den Bosch 272, 274 Kunsthal 159 birds 321, 323 climate 42 Reguliersgracht 64-5 Kunststad 77 birdwatching 321 drinking 97-105, 101 car travel 340, 342-3 Museum boat tours 80-1 entertainment 105-6 castles De Buitenplaats 234 boat travel 341, 341-2 festivals & events 81-2 Kasteel Amerongen 153 Panorama Mesdag 184 boating food 42, 88-97 Kasteel de Haar 153 Van Abbemuseum 276 Binnendieze 272 Kasteel Keukenhof 202 highlights 46-7, 46-7 Witte de With Centre for Boaty 79 Kasteel Radboud 133 history 43 Contemporary Art 162 Bootjes en Broodjes 197 Muiderslot 141 itineraries 56 artists 10 Canal Bike 79 Slot Loevestein 175 neighbourhoods 44-5 Bosch, Hieronymous 302 Club Spaarne 117 Valkenburg Castle 270 nightlife 97-105, 101 Breitner, George De Sikkepit 238 planning information 42 Hendrik 306 cathedrals, see churches & Eco Waterliner 251 cathedrals shopping 106-10 Bruegel, Pieter 302 Fluisterbootjes 124 caves sights 43, 50-61, 64-79 Cuyp, Albert 305 Greenjoy 151 Maastricht tourist information 110 De Wit, Jacob 306 Hiawatha Actief 247 Underground 265 tours 79-81 Hals, Frans 304, 305 JFT Watersport 217 Zonneberg Caves 267 travel seasons 42 Hobbema, Meindert 305 Lekkerbootje 151 cell phones 337-8 travel to/from 110-11 Kruithof, Anouk 309 Rederji Lampedusa 79 Central Netherlands 40, travel within 111-12 Raedecker, Michael 309 Schuttevaer 151 241-61 walking tours 78, 78 Rembrandt Sloep Delen 151 accommodation 241 (van Rijn) 303-4 amusement parks 37, 36 Sloephuren 151 climate 241 Steen, Jan 305 Deltapark Neeltje Jans 207 Stiphout Cruises 266 food 241 Van der Weyden, Efteling 268 Whisper Boat 164 Pieter 302 highlights 242, 242 Madurodam 184 books 282 Van Gogh 306-7 planning information 241 Anne Frank Huis 58-9, 58 Bosch, Hieronymous 302 Van Ruisdael, Jacob 305 weather 241 archaeological sites Bourtange 238 Van Veluw, Levi 309 cheese 12, 89, 326, 12 Dom Under 146 Breda 278-80, Vermeer, Johannes 305 279 children, travel with 33-7 breweries Zorn, Max 309 churches & cathedrals Grolsch Brewery 252-3 Assen 238-40 Domkerk 146 Heineken Experience 76 Map Pages 000 ATMs 336 Eusebiuskerk 258 Photo Pages 000 La Trappe Brewery 277 (Alkmaar) 126 355 Grote Kerk (Breda) 278 cultural centres smart shops 108 Dutch 325-6 Grote Kerk (Den Haag/ Forum 233 Dutch East India fast food 330 The Hague) 183 Obe Paviljoen 212-13 Company 287-9 festivals 327 Grote Kerk Sexyland 79 Dutch language 346-51 Indonesian 326 (Dordrecht) 175 culture 296-301 dykes 319 language 347-8 Grote Kerk (Edam) 124 currency 336 Surinamese 327

Grote Kerk customs regulations 334 E vegetarian 327 INDEX (Monnickendam) 121 Edam 124-5 cycling 10, 18-19, 27-32, football 77, 298-9 Grote Kerk (Naarden) 142 Eindhoven 276-7 125, 173, 273, 284, 299, forts Grote Kerk (Zwolle) 246 Eise Eisinga Planetarium 216 -Bourtange Fortress 238  C 27 ,10 ,32 ,31 ,341 ,340

Grote Kerk van electricity 334  H internet resources 29 Fort St Pieter 265-6 St Bavo 115, 2 Elfstedentocht 214 LF Routes 28 Naarden-Vesting 142 Grote of embassies 334 Pampus 141 Lebuïnuskerk 243 emergencies 15 D Fortuyn, Pim 295 Kerkje aan de Zee 144 dangers, see safety language 349 fracking 237 Koorkerk 204 Draaiend Huis 278, 316 Enkhuizen 130-3 Friesland 39, 209-26 Lange Jan Tower 205 De Hallen 61 environmental issues accommodation 209 229 deer 118, 180, 319, 11 283-4, 320-2, 324 climate 209 Munsterkerk 270 Delfshaven 173-5, 174 Escher, Maurits Cornelis (Delft) 51, (MC) 308 food 209 Delft 13, 189-94, 190, 13 189-90 events 20-3 highlights 210, 210 Delta Project 207, 318 Nieuwe Kerk exchange rates 15 history 210-11 (Middelburg) 204 Den Bosch 270-3, 271 planning information 209 Nieuwe Kerk Den Haag F weather 209 (The Hague) 181-9, (Zierikzee) 208 fashion 301 Frisian Islands 219-26 182-3 Noorderkerk festivals 20-3 Frisian language 213 accommodation 185-6 (Amsterdam) 65-6 Amsterdam Dance drinking 187-8 Onze Lieve Vrouwe Event 82 G Basiliek (Zwolle) 246-7 entertainment 188 Breda Jazz gables 312 Onze Lieve food 186-7 Festival 278-9 gay travellers 99, 171, 336 Vrouwebasiliek nightlife 187-8 Carnaval 266 Gelderland 253-61 (Maastricht) 265 shopping 188 De Vierdaagse 254-5 geography 318-24 Oude Kerk 51-2, 190 sights 181-5 Grachtenfestival 82 gezellig 329 Oude of tourist information 188 Holland Festival 81 Pelgrimvaderskerk 174 Giethoorn 251 tours 185 King’s Day 81 Pieterskerk (Utrecht gin 329 transport to/from 188-9 City) 149 Krabbegat 280 Gouda 178-81, 179 travel within 189 Pieterskerk Le Guess Who? 150 Groesbeek 257 Den Helder 134 (Leiden) 196-7 Metropolis Festival 165 Groningen 229-37, 230-1 De Stijl 308 Sint Janskerk North Sea Jazz accommodation 232-3 design 300-1 Festival 165 (Gouda) 178 drinking 234-5 Oerol 222 Sint Stevenskerk 254 Deventer 243-5, 244 entertainment 235-6 Over het IJ Festival 81-2 Sint-Christoffelkathedral disabilities, travellers food 233-4 270 with 332 Pleinbioscoop nightlife 234-5 Sint-Willibrod-Kerk 150 discount cards 76, 121, 163 Rotterdam 165 shopping 236 St Janskathedraal 271 distilleries Pride Amsterdam 82 sights 229, 231-2 St Janskerk Distilleerderij Ronde om Texel 138 tours 232 (Maastricht) 265 Rutte 175-6 Roots Festival 81 Groningen Province 228-38 St Servaasbasiliek Weduwe Joustra 218 Rotterdam Architecture 264, 274 Domburg 206-7 Month 165 H Westerkerk Dordrecht 175-8, Rotterdam Bluegrass 176 Haarlem 115-20, 116 (Amsterdam) 57 Drenthe Province 238-40 Festival 165 accommodation 113, 117 Westerkerk drinks 327-9 Sneekweek 217 (Enkhuizen) 131 activities 115-16 language 349 World Press Photo 81 Zuiderkerk 55-6 drinking 119 drug culture 297 Fiets Elfstedentocht 214 climate 14, 334 entertainment 119 cannabis 102 films 284 CoBrA 308 food 113, 117-19 Cannabis College 52 Flevoland 143-4 coffee 327-8 highlights 114, 114 coffeeshops 102, 284 food 325-30, 334-5, coffeeshops 102, 284 see also individual history 115 Drugs Tour 81 consulates 334 locations nightlife 119 Hash, Marijuana & Hemp cheese 12, 89, 326, shopping 119 credit cards 336-7 Museum 52 12 356 Haarlem (continued) internet access 335-6 Gouda Kaasstad 178 Diamond Museum 69 sights 115-16 internet resources 284 Grote Markt 254 Dordrechts Museum 175 tourist information 119 island hopping 221 Kaasmarkt Drents Museum 239 travel to/from 119 itineraries 24-6 (Alkmaar) 125-6 Edams Museum 124 Halsema, Femke 295 Kaasmarkt (Edam) 124 Electric Ladyland 67-8 Hanseatic League 250 J Markthal 168 Escher in Het Paleis 183 INDEX INDEX Harlingen 215-17 jazz 165 Merck 231 EYE Film Institute 77 health 335 jenever 329 Noordermarkt 109, 2 Flessenscheepjes Herdenkingsdag 81 Westergasfabriek 68 Museum 131

H-M Het Eerste Friese K measures 336 Fotomuseum  Schaatsmuseum 218-19 Kampen 249-50 medical services 335 Den Haag 184  Heusden 272, 274 Kampen Cow 249 Medemblik 133 Frans Hals Museum – Hof 115 Hindeloopen 218-19 kayaking 220 memorials Fries Museum 211 historic sites Auschwitz Memorial 57 Fries Scheepvaart Begijnhof 278 L Hollandsche land reclamation 318-19 Museum 217 Roman catacombs Schouwburg 57 Geelvinck Pianola (Valkenburg) 270 language Homomonument 60 Museum 67 history 17, 285-95 Dutch 346-51 Kamp Westerbork Gemeentemuseum 183-4 Caribbean Frisian 213 239-40 Grolsch Living Netherlands 293 Lauwersoog 226 war cemetery History 253 colonisation 287-9, 293 Leeuwarden (Ljouwert) (Oosterbeek) 259 Groninger Museum Dutch East India 211-15, 212 Middelburg 203-6, 204 229, 18 Company 287-9 legal matters 336 mobile phones 337-8 Heksenwaag 156 Dutch Jews 291 Leiden 194-202, 196 Mondrian 308 Hermitage lesbian travellers 99, Dutch War of money 14, 334, 336 Amsterdam 60-1 Independence 286-7 171, 336 monuments Het Grachtenhuis 60 Dutch West India LGBT+ travellers 99, De Tobbedanser 215 Company 288 171, 336 Het Scheepvaart- Homomonument 60 museum 56-7 foundation of the lighthouses Monument Hollandsche Netherlands 289-90 Ameland Lighthouse 224 vuurwerkramp Schouwburg 57 Golden Age 287 Eierland Lighthouse Enschede 252 House of Bols 69 Hanseatic League 285-6 136, 13 Nationaal Monument 51 Houseboat Museum 67 Provos 293 Vuurtoren van Urk 144 Pyramide van Huis Marseille 60 Roman era 285 Lisse 202-3 Austerlitz 154 Jheronimus Bosch Art royal family 294 Vissersmonument 144 Center 271-2 tulips 288 M motorcycle travel 340, Maastricht 12, 263-9, Joods Historisch United Provinces 287-9 342-3 Museum 55 264-5, 12 WWII 290-2 mudflats 236 Kaap Skil Museum Van accommodation 266-7 hitching 340 Muiden 141-2 Jutters & Zeelui 135-6 activities 264-6 Hoge Veluwe National multiculturalism 298 Kamp Westerbork drinking 268-9 Park 11, 260-1, 11 museums 35-6 239-40 holidays 337 entertainment 269 Airborne at the Kamper Kogge 249 Hollum 224 events 266 Bridge 258 Kattenkabinet 61-2 Holstein Friesian cattle festivals 266 Airborne Museum Keramiek Museum 324, 324 food 267-8 Hartenstein 259 Princessehof 211 Honigcomplex 256 highlights 263, 263 Amsterdam Museum 43 Kröller-Müller Hoogeland 237-8 nightlife 268-9 Amsterdam Tulip Museum 260-1 Museum 68 Hoorn 129-30 shopping 269 Leiden American Pilgrim Museum 197 horse riding 34 sights 264-6 Anne Frank Huis 58-9, 58 Luchtvaart Themapark Hollandsche Manege 69 tours 266 Batavialand 143 Aviodrome 143 Jan Plezier 138 maps 336 Bijbels Museum 60 Madame Tussauds markets 19, 110, , Bunker Museum 222 Manege Elzenhof 137 2 18 Amsterdam 51 Albert Cuypmarkt 69 Centraal Museum 146 Maritiem Museum CoBrA Museum 83 I Bloemenmarkt 61 Rotterdam 164 immigration 339-41 Comenius Museum 142 Bloemenveiling Aalsmeer Marker Museum 122 insurance 335 123 De Museumfabriek 252 Mauritshuis 181, 201 De Bazaar Beverwijk 120 De Pont Museum 277 Miffy Museum 146 De Hallen 61 De Valk 195 Map Pages 000 Mondriaanhuis 155 Delft Markt 19, 189, 18 Design Museum Den Photo Pages 000 Multatuli Museum 60 Fenix Food Factory 170 Bosch 272 357 Museum Aan Het Natuurcentrum Amsterdamse Bos 83 De Dikke Toren 208 Vrijthof 265 Ameland 224 Biesbosch National De Rotterdam 168 Museum Boijmans van Nederlands Park 180 Domtoren 146 Beuningen 159 Fotomuseum 163 Drentsche Aa National 163 Museum Nederlands Landscape 240 Golden Bend 64 BroekerVeiling 128 Openluchtmuseum Dwingelderveld National 258 Goudse Waag 178

Museum Park 240 INDEX Haagse Toren 184-5 Catharijneconvent 149 Nederlands Ecomare 135 Hoofdtoren 129 Museum De Stripmuseum 231 Hoge Veluwe National Huis Sonneveld 168 Buitenplaats 234 NEMO Science Park 260, 11 Museum 57 Kaasmarkt 124  M-P Museum De Kinderdijk 172 Fundatie 247 Noordbrabants Kijk-Kubus  Lauwersmeer National Museum 272 Museumwoning 168 Museum de Park 226 Gevangenpoort 181-2 Noordelijk KPN Telecom Lutterzand 253 Museum De Lakenhal 195 Scheepvaartmuseum Headquarters 168 National Park 229 Kraanspoor 79 Museum de Waag 243 Oosterschelde 207 Philips Museum Markiezenhof 280 Museum de Zwarte Schiermonnikoog 276, 274 Tulp 202 National Park 225-6 Markthal 168 Rijksmuseum 70-3, , Museum Gouda 178 2 Texel Dunes National 231 , Museum Hannemahuis 70 72 Park 135 Menkemaborg 238 Rijksmuseum Harlingen 216 Utrechtse Heuvelrug Nieuwe Toren 249 Boerhaave 195 Museum het Oude National Park 152 Nieuwendammerdijk 77 Rijksmuseum Raadhuis 144 Zuid-Kennemerland Oldehove 211-12 Twenthe 252 Museum het National Park 118 Onze Lieve Vrouwe Rijksmuseum van Rembrandthuis 53 NEMO Science Toren 155 Oudheden 194 Museum het Valkhof 254 Museum 57, 18 Overblaak Schokland Museum 144 Museum Hindeloopen 218 Nes 224 Development 168 Sonnenborgh Museum & Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer newspapers 336 Rietveld-Schröderhuis Observatory 149 op Solder 52 Night Watch, the 10, 147-8 Spoorweg Museum 149 Museum Prinsenhof 304, 10 Sassenpoort 247 Stadsarchief 61 Delft 190-1 Nijmegen 254-7 Scheepvaarthuis 56 Stedelijk Museum 69, Museum Rotterdam Noord Brabant 270-80 Schreierstoren 52-3 162-3 126, 249 Speeltoren 121 Stedelijk Museum Northeastern Netherlands Museum Rotterdam: 40, 227-40 1940–5 NU 163 Breda 278 Stadhuis (Delft) 189, 13 accommodation 227 Museum Simon van Stoommachine Stadhuis Gijn 177 Museum 133 climate 227 (Den Bosch) 271 Museum Speelklok Terschelling Museum ’t food 227 Stadhuis 149-50 Behouden Huys 222 highlights 228, 228 (Middelburg) 205 Museum Stoomtram 129 Textile Museum 277 planning information 227 Stadhuis (Veere) 206 Museum Tromp’s Huys Teylers Museum 116 weather 227 Stadhuis (Zierikzee) 208 220 Tropenmuseum 76-7 North Holland 113, 115 Van Nelle Fabriek Museum van de Universiteitsmuseum 149 accommodation 113 163, 201 Twintigste Eeuw 129 Van Gogh Museum 74, 74 climate 113 Vondelkerk 69 Museum Van Loon 61 Vermeer Centrum food 113 Waag 55 Museum Delft 189 highlights 114, 114 Volkenkunde 194-5 Waaggebouw 125 Verzetsmuseum 56 history 115 Museum voor het Westergasfabriek 68 Vestingmuseum 142 planning information 113 Kruideniersbedrijf 150 Volendams Museum 123 North Sea Jazz Festival 165 Museum Willet- Vredespaleis 185 notable buildings O Holthuysen 64 Oosterbeek 259 Wereldmuseum 164 Abdij 203-4 Nationaal Biermuseum opening hours 337 Westfries Museum 129 Academiegebouw 231 126 Operation Market Nationaal Fietsmuseum Witte de With Centre for A’DAM Tower 77 Contemporary Art 162 Garden 258 Velorama 254 ARCAM 57 Overijssel 243-53 National Zaans Museum 120 Begijnhof 50-1 Jenevermuseum Zeeuws Museum 204-5 Beurs van Berlage 53 Schiedam 174 Zuiderzeemuseum 131 P Bijenkorf Department palaces NATO command base 267 music 282 Store 171 Binnenhof 181 Natural History Centraal Station 51, 168 Palace Park 251 Museum 164 N Corrie ten Boom House Naturalis Biodiversity Naarden 142-3 115-16 Paleis Het Loo 251 Centre 196 national parks 319-20 Royal Palace 43 358 parks & gardens entertainment 170-1 Grote Markt food 152-3 De Boschplaat 222 events 165 (Groningen) 229 nightlife 153-4 De Oude Hortus 152 festivals 165 Grote Markt shopping 154 Flora’s Hof 152 food 167, 169 (Nijmegen) 254 sights 146-50 Haarlemmerhout 116-17 history 159 Johnny Jordaanplein 67 travel to/from 154 Hortus Botanicus 57 nightlife 169-70 Markt 189 Utrecht Province 39

INDEX INDEX Hortus Botanicus shopping 171 Nieuwe Markt 229-30 Leiden 195-6 sights 159, 162-3 Rode Steen 129 V Keukenhof Gardens tourist information 171 Spui 51 vacations 337

P- 202, 201 travel to/from 171-2 Zaailand 211 Valkenburg 269-70  Z Oosterpark 77 travel within 173 synagogues Van Gogh Museum 74-5, 74  Pandhof 152 Portuguese-Israelite walking tours 166, 166 Van Gogh, Theo 295 Synagogue 55 Prinsentuin 231-2 Rutte, Mark 294 Van Gogh, Vincent 306-7 Sarphatipark 76 Veere 206 Valkhofpark 254 T vegetarian travellers 327 S taxis 342, 343 Wertheimpark 57 safety 337 Vermeer, Johannes tea 327-8 Westerpark 68 Schiedam 173-5 193, 305 telephone services 337-8 passports 339-41 Schiermonnikoog 225-6 visas 338 Terschelling 221-4 Philip II 286 Schouwen-Duiveland 208 Vlieland 220-1 Texel 12, 134-41, 136, 13 Philip the Good 286 seals 16 Volendam 123-4 accommodation 138-40 Pilgrims 195 sex industry 52, 53 volunteering 338 activities 137-8 planning 20-3 Prostitution Information events 138 basics 14-15 Centre 53 W festivals 138 Waddenzee Coast 215-17 budgeting 15 Prostitution Information food 138-40 walking tours 81 calendar of events 20-3 Centre Red Light District Tour 81 sights 135-7 Amsterdam 78, children, travel with 33-7 78 Randy Roy’s Redlight travel to/from 140-1 Northeast internet resources 15 Tours 81 travel within 141 Rotterdam 166, 166 itineraries 24-6 Red Light Secrets 52 theft 335, 337 Waterland Neeltje Jans 207 Netherlands’ regions Sexmuseum 38-40 Thorn 276 Waterland region 121-3 Amsterdam 51 repeat visitors 16 Tilburg 16, 277-8 Marken 122-3 shopping, see also time 338 Monnickendam 121-2 travel seasons 14 individual locations tipping 337 weather 14, 334 playgrounds language 349 toilets 338 websites, see internet Haarlemmerhout 116 Nine Streets 109 tourist information 338 resources Speeltuinvereniging skating 299-300 Katendrecht 164 tours, see bicycle tours, weights 336 smoking 336 politics 282-3, 293-5 boat tours, walking Westerschouwen 208 Sneek (Snits) 217-18 tours population 283, 297 Wijk bij Duurstede 155 soccer, see football train tavel 340-1, 343-5 postal services 337 Wilders, Geert 293-4, 295 South Holland 157-208 travel to/from the public holidays 337 wildlife 319 accommodation 157 Netherlands 339-41 wildlife reserves climate 157 travel within the Zeehondencreche R Netherlands 341-5 religion 283, 297-8 food 157 Pieterburen 238 Twente 252-3 Rembrandt (van Rijn) 10, highlights 158, 158 windmills 16, 19, 322 53, 303-4 planning information 157 Korenmolen de U Rietveld-Schröderhuis weather 157 Walvisch 174 Urk 143-4 147-8, 315 Southeastern Netherlands Zaanse Schans Utrecht 145-56 Rijksmuseum 70-3, , 262-80 Windmills 120 73 70 accommodation 145 Roermond 270 accommodation 262 Woudrichem 272 climate 145 Rotterdam 16, 159-73, climate 262 food 145 160-1 food 262 Z highlights 147, Zaanse Schans 120-1, 5 accommodation 165, 167 highlights 263, 263 147 planning information 145 Zeeland 203-8 activities 163-4 planning information 262 travel seasons 145 Zierikzee 208 architecture 9, 9 weather 262 Utrecht City 146-55, Zonetaxi 342 drinking 169-70 Southwestern Friesland 148-9 217-19 accommodation 150-1 zoos speed cameras 340 drinking 153-4 Artis Royal Zoo 56 sports 298-300 entertainment 154 Zoutkamp 226 Map Pages 000 squares events 150 Zuiderzee 132 Photo Pages 000 Dam 51 festivals 150 Zwolle 245-8, 246 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 359

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Nicola Williams Central Netherlands, Friesland (Fryslân), Northeastern Netherlands Border hopping is way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum- of-three Nicola, who has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Geneva for more than a decade. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, on destinations including Paris, Provence, Rome, Tuscany, France, Italy and Switzerland. Twitter/Instagram: @tripalong. Nicola also wrote the Plan Your Trip and Understand sections of this book.

Abigail Blasi Amsterdam A freelance travel writer, Abigail has lived and worked in London, Rome, Hong Kong, and Copenhagen. Lonely Planet has sent her to India, Egypt, Tunisia, Mauritania, Mali, Italy, Portugal, Malta and around Britain. She writes regularly for newspapers and magazines, such as the Independent, the Telegraph, and Lonely Planet Traveller. She has three children and they often come along for the ride. Twitter/Instagram: @abiwhere

Mark Elliott Maastricht & Southeastern Netherlands, Utrecht Mark had already lived and worked on five continents when, in the pre-internet dark ages, he started writing travel guides. He has since authored (or co-authored) around 60 books, includ- ing dozens for Lonely Planet. He also acts as a travel consultant, occasional tour leader, video presenter, speaker, interviewer and blues harmonica player.

Catherine Le Nevez Amsterdam, Haarlem & North Holland Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries. Over the past dozen years she’s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles, covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Her work has also ap- peared in numerous online and print publications.

Virginia Maxwell Rotterdam & South Holland Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet coverage across the globe, including destinations such as Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco, Tunisia, Finland, Bali, Armenia and the Netherlands. Follow her: maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 7th edition – May 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 97 8 17865 73919 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’