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Netherlands 7 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd The Netherlands Friesland Northeastern (Fryslân) Netherlands p209 p227 Haarlem & North Holland p113 #_ Amsterdam Central p42 Netherlands Utrecht p241 p145 Rotterdam & South Holland p157 Maastricht & Southeastern Netherlands p262 Nicola Williams, Abigail Blasi, Mark Elliott, Catherine Le Nevez, Virginia Maxwell PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to AMSTERDAM . 42 Zaanse Schans . 120 the Netherlands . 4 Sights . 43 Waterland . 121 The Netherlands Map . 6 Activities . 79 Volendam . 123 The Netherlands’ Tours . 79 Edam . 124 Top 10 . 8 Festivals & Events . 81 Alkmaar . 125 Need to Know . 14 Sleeping . 82 Hoorn . 129 Enkhuizen . 130 What’s New . 16 Eating . 88 Drinking & Nightlife . 97 Medemblik . 133 If You Like . 17 Entertainment . 105 Den Helder . 134 Month by Month . 20 Shopping . 106 Texel . 134 Itineraries . 24 Muiden . 141 Naarden . 142 Cycling in HAARLEM & the Netherlands . 27 NORTH HOLLAND . .113 Flevoland . 143 Urk . 143 Travel with Children . 33 North Holland . 115 Haarlem . 115 Regions at a Glance . 38 SARAH COGHILL/LONELY PLANET © PLANET COGHILL/LONELY SARAH © GONCHAROVAIA/SHUTTERSTOCK NOORDERMARKT, AMSTERDAM P109 PXL.STORE/SHUTTERSTOCK © PXL.STORE/SHUTTERSTOCK GROTE KERK VAN ST BAVO, RIJKSMUSEUM P70 HAARLEM P115 Contents UNDERSTAND UTRECHT . 145 NORTHEASTERN The Netherlands Today . 282 Utrecht City . 146 NETHERLANDS . 227 Amersfoort . 155 Groningen Province . 228 History . 285 Groningen . 229 The Dutch Way ROTTERDAM & Hoogeland . 237 of Life . 296 SOUTH HOLLAND . .. 157 Bourtange . 238 Dutch Art . 302 Drenthe Province . 238 South Holland . 159 Architecture . 310 Rotterdam . 159 Assen . 238 The Dutch Delfshaven Landscape . 318 & Schiedam . 173 CENTRAL Dordrecht . 175 NETHERLANDS . 241 Dutch Cuisine . 325 Gouda . 178 Overijssel . 243 Den Haag (The Hague) . 181 Deventer . 243 SURVIVAL Delft . 189 Zwolle . 245 GUIDE Leiden . 194 Kampen . 249 Lisse . 202 Weerribben-Wieden Zeeland . 203 National Park . 251 Directory A–Z . 332 Middelburg . 203 Twente . 252 Transport . 339 Veere . .206 Gelderland . 253 Domburg . 206 Nijmegen . 254 Language . 346 Waterland Groesbeek . 257 Index . 354 Neeltje Jans . 207 Arnhem . 258 Map Legend . 359 Schouwen-Duiveland . 208 Hoge Veluwe National Park . 260 FRIESLAND (FRYSLÂN) . 209 MAASTRICHT & Leeuwarden SOUTHEASTERN (Ljouwert) . 211 NETHERLANDS . 262 SPECIAL Waddenzee Coast . 215 Maastricht . 263 FEATURES Harlingen . 215 Valkenburg . 269 Cycling in Southwestern Roermond . 270 the Netherlands . 27 Friesland . 217 Noord Brabant . 270 Sneek (Snits) . 217 Travel with Children . .. 33 Den Bosch . 270 Hindeloopen (Hylpen) . 218 Eindhoven . 276 Cheese, Gin Frisian Islands . 219 & Monuments Tilburg . 277 Walking Tour . 78 Vlieland . 220 Breda . 278 Terschelling . 221 Northeast Rotterdam Bergen op Zoom . 280 Walking Tour . 166 Ameland . .. 224 Schiermonnikoog . .. 225 Dutch Art . 302 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 24 Itineraries IJ M E E R Waterland É #• Haarlem #• É #_ AMSTERDAM Deventer Keukenhof Gardens #• #• É É #• É Den Haag Leiden #• #• Utrecht #• N O R T H (The Hague) Kröller-Müller S E A #•ÉDelft Museum #• Rotterdam #• Kinderdijk É É #• Delta Project #• Den É É É Bergen #• Bosch op Zoom Breda #• É É Middelburg É #• W E S T E R S C H E L D E GERMANY É BELGIUM É #• Maastricht 3 WEEKS Southern Sojourn Catch the Netherlands’ most iconic sights on a leisurely spin around the country’s south. Spend the first week in Amsterdam and surrounds; enjoy the classic beauty of the Waterland region by bicycle. In the second week, visit Golden Age Haarlem, Keukenhof Gardens (in season), museum-filled Leiden, the Dutch seat of government Den Haag and charming Delft. At the start of the third week, hit cutting-edge Rotterdam. Ride a waterbus to ad- mire windmills at Kinderdijk, then head for Zeeland’s restored capital Middelburg and the Delta Project. Travel through the southern provinces, breaking in Bergen op Zoom for the country’s oldest surviving city-palace, Breda for café life and Den Bosch for hidden canals. Continue to Maastricht for medieval meanderings and great cuisine. Head north to Hanseatic Deventer, then west to the Kröller-Müller Museum in the Hoge Veluwe National Park. End in historic, cosmopolitan university city Utrecht. 25 Ameland •#Schiermonnikoog Nes N O R T H Terschelling •# f# f# Lauwersoog S E A •# Holwerd •# Oosterend •# É Vlieland f# f# •# É É É f# PLAN YOUR TRIP #f É •#Leeuwarden •# Texel É •#De Cocksdorp Harlingen Ecomare •# É WA D D E N Z E E É Den •# Hoorn •# Afsluitdijk f# Oudeschild •# Den Helder •# Hindeloopen É IJ S S E L M E E R IT É É I É •#Enkhuizen NERAR •# Alkmaar Houtribdijk GERMANY I É Edam ES •# •# Zwolle •# Marken •# #_ Waterland Circumnavigating AMSTERDAM É •#Muiden the IJsselmeer Naarden •# Island Escapes Circumnavigating 2 1 Island Escapes WEEKS the IJsselmeer WEEK This itinerary focuses on IJsselmeer – the The low-lying Wadden Islands are strung central Netherlands’ vast artificial lake. out like pearls in the Unesco-listed Wad- Spend three days in Amsterdam for denzee and are perfect for island-hopping. museums, parks, canal tours and nightlife. Some ferry links require advance planning. Head north along the IJsselmeer coast From Amsterdam, head to Texel. through the Waterland region to the tiny Bike along the island’s western coast from fishing village of Marken. Cycle the dykes sleepy Den Hoorn through dark copses to Edam with its famous, seasonal cheese to the Ecomare seal and bird refuge. market (July to August). Stay overnight, Comb the eastern side, visiting the superb then reach Alkmaar early to experience Maritime and Beachcombers Museum in its equally riveting, centuries-old cheese Oudeschild. market (April to September). Explore From De Cocksdorp at the northern the enthralling Zuiderzeemuseum in end of Texel, board the morning ferry to Enkhuizen. car-free Vlieland to explore its nature Travel to Den Helder, and take a ferry and hiking trails before catching the boat to Texel. Spend two days on the island, en- to Terschelling, Friesland’s main tourist joying the beach and bike exploration, then island. Hole up in peaceful Oosterend catch a ferry to Vlieland; a seafood lunch and cycle the untouched dunes, then here at uber-fashionable strandpaviljoen hightail it by ferry to Harlingen, a pretty (beach pavilion) Oost is a highlight. From little port on the Frisian coast, and on to Vlieland, sail aboard a ferry to charming Holwerd, to catch the ferry across to lan- Harlingen. From here Friesland’s lively guid Ameland. Stay in the whaling port of capital Leeuwarden is a short train jour- Nes. Return to the mainland and continue ney away, as is the nearby chain of coastal east to the port of Lauwersoog. From towns, including quaint Hindeloopen. here catch the ferry to the smallest of the Head to Hanseatic Zwolle and also visit Frisian Islands, Schiermonnikoog, home the historic fortress towns of Naarden to an evocative, windswept national park, and Muiden. before returning to the mainland. 26 #• Groningen WA D D E N Z E E É É #• Bourtange Borger É #• PLAN YOUR TRIP N O R T H #•Kamp IJ S S E L M E E R Weerribben-Wieden S E A National Park Westerbork ÷# É É #• Zwolle AMSTERDAM É Haarlem É #• #_ IT Keukenhof Gardens #• #•Deventer I É NERAR #•Leiden Den Haag GERMANY (The Hague) #• ÷# É Hoge Veluwe É I National ES Rotterdam #• Kinderdijk Park #• Woudrichem #• #• É Dordrecht ÷# Biesbosch #• Eastern Experience #• National Heusden É Den Bosch The Lay of the Lowlands Park Oosterschelde The Lay of the 2 Eastern Experience 1 WEEKS WEEK Lowlands The Netherlands’ eastern expanse boasts Hit the country’s best highlights. myriad highlights to be discovered. Begin with two days in Amsterdam. Begin in Groningen, a vibrant city with Visit the big-hitting museums and explore students, bars, cafes and fine museums. the charming Jordaan neighbourhood by Travel southeast to Bourtange, a 17th- bike. On your second day board a canal century fortified town, then move on to boat tour, and stroll through the Red Borger and its prehistoric hunebedden Light District before getting cosy in a (stone burial chambers). Make your way to brown cafe. Kamp Westerbork to encounter its mov- Travel west to beautiful Haarlem – ing, horrible heritage. Head to Zwolle, an stroll the compact historic core, and view unhurried Hanseatic town, and then to the masterpieces at the Frans Hals Museum. Weerribben-Wieden National Park, a In tulip season witness the kaleidoscopic unique bog-and-water scape strewn with colours of the Keukenhof Gardens. hiking, biking and canoe-paddling trails. Spend a day among old-world splendour From Zwolle hop to Deventer, one of in Leiden. Next, take a day in Den Haag the Netherlands’ most appealing small and catch the Mauritshuis’ exceptional art towns. Explore Hoge Veluwe National collection. Park by bike, a natural oasis with a re- Head south to happening Rotterdam nowned art museum at its green core. to tour the harbour and visit the Museum Head to Den Bosch and visit its terrific Boijmans van Beuningen, the Maritiem Jheronimus Bosch Art Center, then head Museum and the architecturally striking west to kick back in the fabulous old- food hall, Markthal Rotterdam. The next world villages of Heusden (fortified and morning, take a walking tour of the city’s moat-ringed) and Woudrichem (a citadel incredible contemporary architecture, village). Get lost in nature at your penul- then hop aboard a waterbus and sail to timate stop, Biesbosch National Park, Kinderdijk to explore Unesco-recognised before exploring the picturesque streets windmills – go local and rent wheels in and canals of Dordrecht. Rotterdam or Kinderdijk. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 352 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition.
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