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Outdoor Travel Ountry & SPECIAL ISSUE N for Peoplewhocare West Aboutthe LOST SANCTUARIES ATOMIC TOURISTS WALKING ITOFF Ews CONTENTS

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Outdoor Travel Ountry & SPECIAL ISSUE N for Peoplewhocare West Aboutthe LOST SANCTUARIES ATOMIC TOURISTS WALKING ITOFF Ews CONTENTS outdoor& travel SPECIAL ISSUE High Country ForN people whoews care about the West May 13, 2019 | $5 | Vol. 51 No. 8 | www.hcn.org No. 51 | $5 Vol. 2019 13, May ATOMIC TOURISTS LOST SANCTUARIES WALKING IT OFF CONTENTS High Country News Editor’s note EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR/PUBLISHER Paul Larmer EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Road trip detours Brian Calvert FEATURES ART DIRECTOR and epiphanies Cindy Wehling DIGITAL EDITOR Last year, I found myself driving Gretchen King 12 ASSOCIATE EDITORS from Colorado’s Western Slope Tristan Ahtone to my home in North Idaho, my The Atomic Road Trip Emily Benson car loaded down with books, Maya L. Kapoor In the Land of Enchantment, camping gear and my bike. As ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR histories of violence are packaged, Luna Anna Archey road trips go, it was short but sold and consumed ASSISTANT EDITORS illuminating: I saw, firsthand, a Paige Blankenbuehler fundamental truth of that place, By LuLing Osofsky and Carl Segerstrom Anna V. Smith its desert heat and fire-scarred Key MacFarlane EDITOR AT LARGE hillsides. The first evening, as dusk settled over Betsy Marston the landscape, a sign announced that the narrow COPY EDITOR Diane Sylvain highway I’d meant to take through Utah was closed. 32 CONTRIBUTING EDITORS As I detoured up the next road, I watched the glow Graham Brewer Ruxandra Guidi of a wildfire — the cause of the closure — blossom on Whose Santuario? Michelle Nijhuis the ridge to the east like a brilliant, dreadful flower, Finding and losing The world’s only UFO McDonald’s Jodi Peterson the scent of smoke filling my car. Things out here can a centuries-old refuge Jonathan Thompson happen fast, and change even faster. in Roswell, NM CORRESPONDENTS By Gustavo Arellano Krista Langlois, Few things are more quintessentially American Sarah Tory, Tay Wiles, than a road trip, especially across the sprawling West, Joshua Zaffos with its ample opportunities for detours, reflection EDITORIAL FELLOWS Elena Saavedra Buckley and epiphany. This issue examines all this and INSIDE more, through outdoor recreation and travel. In our Jessica Kutz 4 By the numbers How recreation boosts the economy EDITORIAL INTERN cover story, writers LuLing Osofsky and Key MacFar- Nick Bowlin lane pilot a rented Kia Soul through New Mexico, 5 Bears Ears’ guerrilla visitor center A local nonprofit educates the masses DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR navigating the violent history of the atomic bomb. Laurie Milford 6 We all want to be able to pursue On their journey, they discover the absurdities of Designing for access MAJOR GIFT ADVISER the things that are part of our identity Alyssa Pinkerton nuclear tourism, including the image of a warhead DEVELOPMENT ASSOCIATE on pins, hats and even, perhaps, on the stained glass 7 Last descents Mountaineers confront disappearing glaciers Hannah Stevens windows of a church. In the process, they explore how 8 The growing opposition to the noise of military aircrafts DEVELOPMENT ASSISTANT centuries of brutality continue to reverberate across A crusade for quiet Christine Maila Mein 31 DIGITAL MARKETER the landscape. Running in place Reimagining the city street by street Chris King Elsewhere in this issue, writer Gustavo Arellano Essay by Kate Schimel EVENTS & BUSINESS PARTNER details in a bittersweet essay the changes he’s seen at 38 Freedom of COORDINATOR Laura Dixon a beloved 200-year-old chapel in New Mexico, El San- WEB APPLICATION DEVELOPER tuario de Chimayó. Created as a spiritual refuge, the movement Eric Strebel Photo essay by shrine has become a locus of a common struggle in IT MANAGER Alan Wells Michael A. Estrada DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS the modern West, over how to conserve the character Erica Howard of places threatened by their own popularity. 40 Currents of consent ACCOUNTS ASSISTANT Some changes, however, are welcome. Antonia and control Mary Zachman Malchik describes the thoughtful design of outdoor Essay by Page Buono CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER Kathy Martinez spaces with disabilities in mind, where careful at- 42 To walk is human; CUSTOMER SERVICE tention to gate widths and switchback angles can open up access to more people, while forcing land to reflect, divine Christie Cantrell (office Essay by Antonia Malchik manager), Karen Howe, managers and people without disabilities to rethink Josh McIntire (IT support), Pam Peters, assumptions about who belongs outside. Doris Teel, Rebecca Challenging assumptions about who belongs in Tiedeman, Tammy York recreational spaces is something professional rock Emily Taylor is on a mission GRANTWRITER Janet Reasoner climber Emily Taylor knows well. To fill a void left to teach, through Brown Girls [email protected] Climbing. MICHAEL A. ESTRADA [email protected] by climbing companies unwilling to help diversify [email protected] the profession, Taylor, a black woman, has created [email protected] multiple initiatives for black climbers. A photo essay [email protected] by Michael A. Estrada shows her at work. FOUNDER Tom Bell From the Grand Tetons to Yosemite, past wild- DEPARTMENTS BOARD OF DIRECTORS On the cover fires, churches and atomic test sites, many of us first Brian Beitner, Colo. 3 FROM OUR WEBSITE: HCN.ORG John Belkin, Colo. experienced the vistas of the West through the bug- Photo montage: Seth Cothrun, Calif. splattered windshield of a vehicle zooming down the White Sands National Park 10 THE HCN COMMUNITY Jay Dean, Calif. highway. Some would contend this is not exactly the hiker overlaid by the Trinity Bob Fulkerson, Nev. nuclear bomb test, July 16, Research Fund, On the Road to 50 Anastasia Greene, Wash. ideal way to get to know the place, and I wouldn’t ar- Wayne Hare, Colo. gue. But I do enjoy the spectacle of the West at speed 1945, New Mexico. 61 OUTDOORS & TRAVEL MARKETPLACE LUNA ANNA ARCHEY/HIGH COUNTRY Laura Helmuth, Md. — if for no other reason than because it matches the NEWS AND U.S. DEPARTMENT 36 MARKETPLACE John Heyneman, Wyo. OF ENERGY Samaria Jaffe, Calif. region’s rapid rate of change. Nicole Lampe, Ore. —Emily Benson, associate editor 44 HEARD AROUND THE WEST By Betsy Marston Marla Painter, N.M. Bryan Pollard, Ark. Raynelle Rino, Calif. Estee Rivera Murdock, Colo. Rick Tallman, Colo. High Country News is a nonprofit 501(c)(3) independent media Ave., Paonia, CO 81428. Periodicals, postage paid at Paonia, CO, and other Printed on Andy Wiessner, Colo. High organization that covers the issues that define the American West. post offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to High Country News, recycled paper. Florence Williams, D.C. Its mission is to inform and inspire people to act on behalf of the Box 1090, Paonia, CO 81428. All rights to publication of articles in this Luis Torres, N.M., Country region’s diverse natural and human communities. (ISSN/0191/5657) issue are reserved. See hcn.org for submission guidelines. Subscriptions to Director Emeritus News is published bi-weekly, 22 times a year, by High Country News, 119 Grand HCN are $37 a year, $47 for institutions: 800-905-1155 | hcn.org 2 High Country News May 13, 2019 FROM OUR WEBSITE: HCN.ORG outdoor& travel SPECIAL ISSUE Ed DesRosier wants a Blackfeet National Park east of Glacier National Park. COURTESY OF ED DESROSIER Tribe seeks own national park The Blackfeet Nation once owned the eastern half of Glacier National Park, until a still-contested sale in 1895 transferred the mountainous region to the U.S. government. Now, the tribe is seeking to open its own national park just outside the current park. Advocates say the move would protect natural resources and direct The world’s only UFO McDonald’s tourism dollars to the tribe. Perhaps most importantly, the park would acknowledge the tribal people who in Roswell, NM lived in the area for centuries before it became a tourist hotspot. SAMANTHA WEBER Read more online: hcne.ws/blackfeet-park PHOTOS: LUNA ANNA ARCHEY/HIGH COUNTRY NEWS INSIDE Contributors 4 By the numbers How recreation boosts the economy I stand with governors across 5 Bears Ears’ guerrilla visitor center A local nonprofit educates the masses 6 Designing for access We all want to be able to pursue the land in asserting our states’ the things that are part of our identity “rights to access markets foreign 7 Last descents Mountaineers confront disappearing glaciers 8 and domestic. A crusade for quiet The growing opposition to the noise of military aircrafts —Wyoming Gov. Mark Gordon, R., who was among the governors of energy-rich states who came out in support of President Donald 31 Running in place Reimagining the city street by street Trump’s recent executive order that loosened restrictions of the Essay by Kate Schimel Gustavo Chris Berdik is a Page Buono is Nick Davidson Michael A. ” Clean Water Act. The order eases permitting for energy export 38 Freedom of Arellano is a freelance jour- a freelance writer is a Santa Fe, New Estrada is a Sal- infrastructure along the Pacific Coast, where projects like Washing- movement features writer for nalist in Milton, based in Durango, Mexico-based writer vadoran-American ton’s Millennium coal terminal have been blocked for years. the Los Angeles Massachusetts. He who covers the photojournalist and Photo essay by Colorado. She CARL SEGERSTROM Read more online: Times and the covers science and outdoors, adventure Michael A. Estrada received her MFA artist. His work falls hcne.ws/trump-energy author of Taco USA: education, and he’s in nonfiction from and the environ- at the intersection 40 Currents of consent How Mexican Food the author of Mind the University of ment. of media, environ- and control Conquered America. Over Mind, a book Arizona. mental justice, art, Essay by Page Buono about placebos and folks of color in Court rejects Trump rollback 42 To walk is human; in medicine and nature.
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