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• Short ‘N’ Snappy • Vanishing Churches • Rambling in West Mambalam – 5 • The West End of Madras • Travails of garment workers

Vol. XXVI No. 22 MUSINGS March 1-15, 2017 The work ahead Drought & water shortage must be priority of new government (By The Editor)

nd so we have a new government in our State. An EPS AGovernment. And it has its work cut for it. For its predeces- sor, Amma’s Government, had promised much for the next four years. And those promises next to be kept, if the EPS Government is to return to power at that times. But this will not At the moment, credibility in public perception of the EPS Government is of concern, even if stability is assured for the present happen again to gain credibility, it needs to reach out to its supporters at the ground level, passionately in interior villages and hamlets. G Christopher Penn writes that “when I For this, the Chief Minister and his government need to work was recently in Madras and , drought and water shortage were frequent topics committedly to tackle a heavy agenda awaiting action. There is of conversation. But famines were trag- much to do apart from the settlement of the Cauvery issue and the edies of the past, what was the Presidency. question of enacting legislation that will enable the State to have These two pictures tell something of one its own examination for medical (an, in time, engineering) seats. of them. The Duke of Buckingham, as The first priority is overcoming the current drought conditions in Governor of Madras during the 1877/78 most parts of the State and water shortage in urban areas while famine, initiated several efforts to relieve tackling the present crisis it needs to look at long term solutions to the distress. Work was put in hand on prevent much water draining into the sea when there is good rain. roads, canals – the Buckingham Canal It also needs to look at its finances. The priority is the Report on dates from this time – and other infra- for 2014-15 by the Comptroller and Auditor General structure to provide employment, and famine relief kitchens were set up to feed of India reveals that revenue from public debt in year 2010-11 was the starving population. Rs. 13,000 crore burgeoning to Rs. 31,000 crores in 2014-15. Ratio of capital expenditure to total expenditure has been eroding from “William Digby, who was editor of The 15.46 in 2011-12 to 11.79 in 2014-15. These are indicative of a Madras Times during the famine, provided shift from building infrastructure and social assets to over-gener- a comprehensive summary of the relief ous vote-winning freebies. A correction is essential to wean people work in his book The famine campaign in Southern India – Madras and Bombay away from a lust for one-off kinds of goodies that have no lasting Presidencies and the Province of Mysore economic benefit. Pro-active collaboration with the Centre, tran- 1876-78 published in 1878. He scending political rivalries, could add substantial value to the noted that merchants had fore- State’s own efforts. seen the coming shortage of rice Basic permanent type of insulation against periodic storms and Restoration – long before the Government floods are another priority. For a burgeoning population in our was ready to take action and cities, civic amenities like better drainage systems, conservancy had shipped large quantities of rice into Madras. Subsequently (Continued on page 7) police style when the Government grasped the severity of the situation, ‘ac- t a time when there is no plenty of zeal, but it would be tivity in the roadstead and on When this black coast became blue Aorganised effort of any much better if there was also shore was unexampled in the Printers’ devils were kind to protect the heritage some knowledge on how to go history of Madras.’ Digby illus- at work both at our structures in the city, we must about conservation. trates the point with a litho- processors and print- be thankful that the police in The restoration of the DGP graph based on Hooper’s ers, with the result Tamil Nadu has proved to be Building on the Marina is well memorable photograph of the that “the black coast” more sensitive and has made a known and does not need rep- Madras beach covered with became BLUE last determined effort to preserve etition here. But it did see the sacks of rice and grain during fortnight. We hope whatever heritage buildings it police beginning to look at their the famine (top). “My other picture shows the the reproduction of controls. But it is also quite evi- heritage in a new light. Thus, the same picture here sad state of those worst affected sets the record dent that its restoration activi- care was taken to preserve the by the famine. Happily, famines straight. ties are not being guided by ex- Police Commissioner’s Office are no longer in the memory of – The Editor pertise of any kind. There is (Continued on page 2) Indians.” CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS March 1-15, 2017 Restoration, The week that was Police style t the outset Chief, please ing the Advocate-General just an ordinance. Joy was uncon- A accept the apologies of as the President selects the fined. Or it was till all hell (Continued from page 1) The Man from Madras Prime Minister after consulting broke loose on the last day and Musings. He does know that the Attorney-General. people spent several hours try- you, Chief, are averse to any Mention of the PM reminds ing to get home and thereafter political overtones appearing MMM of that great man’s wasted several days talking in this column. MMM’s rejoin- devotees on social media. One about it. der to that being such is the of these fanatics posted that The revolutionaries went standard of MMM’s column Tamil Nadu did not deserve home, having fought for their that no politician worth his/her any sympathy as its people right. And then we had salt is likely to ever understand never voted for Mr DeMo. the present crisis, this palace even a word. However, you MMM was rather surprised at intrigue with all the correct Chief did not agree. And it was this. Is it necessary, Chief, to ingredients – cloak and dagger, left to MMM to take an oath adore this De-Noted Man like wholesale abduction, swearing (thankfully not accompanied the way MMM was asked to of fealty, loyalty and what by three whacks on a granite like pussycats when he was not. Media screamed itself surface) that he would forsake learning his rhymes? In fact, on hoarse, one day condemning politics. those lines, why is it not the Governor and the next But last week was different expected that all of us should day extolling him and then Chief, and you have to chant every day, “I love my going on to focus on deadly make exceptions. Imagine, PM/His beard is so warm/And swearing at and deathly silent Chief, had this been the if I criticise him/His devotees swearing in. But what puzzled defeat and subsequent send- will do me harm?” MMM was the complete ing off of Napoleon to Elba MMM too was asked for his absence of the revolutionaries. (see, Chief, MMM did not views by a TV channel or two. Those people who wore black allude to St Helena mainly He refused, but could not resist T- shirts and went hurtling because the present scenario when someone asked him around streets on two- does have possibilities of a about the history of the house wheelers tooting their horns, Royapettah police station. (Picture courtesy: Sriram V.) triumphant return) and had that could become a memorial. those who repeatedly came on MMM been reporting on that, MMM in all seriousness said electronic media and stated (Continued from page 1) would be modernised even as would you have objected? that initially it was a plot of that their cultural liberty was the old part of it would be re- Surely not. empty land on which a house at stake, and those who trolled (on Adithanar Salai), even as a tained for posterity. All this was And, so when it came to last came to be built. The inter- on social media anyone who high-rise was constructed be- to the good. The police moved week, MMM remained glued viewer disconnected at this dared have a contrary view, side it, to accommodate the de- out to a location close by and to the TV and social media and point. Truth has no value these where were they? Was their partments. Not so lucky is the the old building was emptied. got very little other work done. days, Chief. real liberty not at stake now? first office of the Commissioner, The annexe was demolished a Chisholm-designed building thereafter, bringing to light the that now rots away on Police rear of the older structure – it Commissioner’s Office Road. had tall doors leading to an SHORT ’N’ SNAPPY In the past few years, the old open backyard. These had been police stations in Chennai have shut in when the annexe was been undergoing moderni- constructed and now with their And what he saw distressed Or was it that this was not as sation. The record is rather opening, the old station became him. He alludes mainly to the Deafening silence important as fighting for a mixed. Some of the old ones airy and well lit. complete ignorance of those he Man from Madras bullfight, sorry a game that is such as the Flower Bazaar and Just as those who were fortu- up north as regards happen- T Musings knows that the enjoyed in equal measure by Mount Road (Spencer’s junc- nate to see all this were rejoic- ings down south. They found Chief does not like it when he man and bull? The silence was tion) stations were demolished ing, the police began construct- our names difficult to pro- MMM, chooses to harp on the quite deafening. nounce, had no clue as to what same topic for the entire outright to make way for new ing a new annexe. The open There was one exception. structures which are neat and doors at the rear were walled in our politicians in their thick column. But these are unusual Tamil accent were saying, and times and MMM is moved to World Hero or the Smiling quite functional though in no once again and the station re- Lotus was there both times. way bearing any likeliness to verted to being a dark and dingy began asking anyone and sing on above story at greater everyone whom they knew length. But he will, just to keep And on both occasions he what stood there earlier. In a place. The new annexe, unlike even slightly as to their views the Chief happy, add a new used words of fifteen syllables few other places (Graeme’s the earlier one, which was of a on the happenings here. And, string to his lyre. where smaller terms would Road for instance), where single storey, is now of three thus, it was that all kinds of Just a fortnight or so earlier have sufficed. He dwelt at plenty of space was available, floors and completely dwarfs people became experts on the to the above constitutional cri- length on equipoise and totali- the old building has been re- the main structure – a clear situation. sis, during which gubernatorial tarianism, both terms MMM tained in full even as a func- contravention of all accepted Oh, why is it that the ratings swung from abysmal took quite a while to under- stand. At the end of much tional annexe has come up in practice when construction is Governor has not called the lows to amazing highs and then main claimant to the legacy, back to lows, there was the bo- consulting of online and the rear. Yet others, such as the taken up in proximity to a heri- offline dictionaries, MMM Harbour (B1) station, face an tage building. Outwardly, the lamented a grey-haired, self- vine crisis, during which Prime declared psephologist who had Ministerial and Chief Ministe- was happy to know that World uncertain future, slated as they annexe mimics the façade of the clearly never travelled further rial ratings swung the same Hero/Lotus Smile had his have been for demolition for old station quite faithfully – in South than one of the South way. It was all interpreted as a heart in the right place. MMM years but with no action taking its borders, arched windows and Delhi colonies. Two days fight for a fundamental local had quite unnecessarily feared place as yet. A few lucky ones – crenellated skyline. But given later, after main claimant had right – the right to joust with that he was into disestabli- Triplicane, Mylapore (Kutchery its height and bulk, it overshad- made a stormy departure, the bull. It was off with the shmentarianism. Road), Tiruporur and First Line ows the main station com- three whacks on granite head for anyone who dared to Beach police stations are mag- pletely. alluded to above included, the express a contrary view and Tailpiece nificently maintained. There is same grey-haired woman just about anyone and every- What is of greater concern is praised the Governor for his one, including chess champi- clearly no policy on what can be that while the annexe is all he Man from Madras done and what cannot. foresight. A man from Chen- ons, actors, actresses (Oops! Musings is just back from painted and gleaming, clearly nai, whom MMM knew in Wrong term there, for these T In the last year or so, the awaiting inauguration by who- a weekend down south during another avatar (the man’s and are all actors these days), which he went to coastal colo- Royapettah police station, ever comes to power next, the not MMM’s), suddenly began cricket players, radio jockeys standing as it does at a fork nial settlements set up by the old station is lying forlorn. It has spewing extracts from the and singers, jumped whole- Dutch and the Danes. On his formed by Gowdia Mutt and not even been painted. What is Constitution. The Tamil heartedly onto the bullock cart, way back, he passed by an an- Royapettah High Roads, has its future going to be? True, it is expression for such fly-by- sorry bandwagon. It was term- cient port that all signboards come in for attention. This is a not being demolished but will it night Alladis is, so MMM ed a new revolution, one that uniformly declared to be would show the way. It did, for typical red brick structure of a at least be given the dignity of understands, Killadi. This Boombugar or Boombukar. Is single storey and suffered from man also resorted to verbiage it terrified the administration, it because Poompuhar was some upkeep? If that is not go- when not sure of what he was electrified the media, stupefied poor maintenance. To its rear ing to be done, the very purpose once a town where commerce saying. At one point he said the judiciary and, finally got a boomed? was an annexe of more modern of saving it will be lost. that the Governor selects a law modified or nullified, vintage that was shockingly Chief Minister after consult- MMM forgets which, by way of – MMM kept. It was announced a couple – A Special of years ago that the station Correspondent March 1-15, 2017 MADRAS MUSINGS 3

G CHENNAI NEWSREEL The Aussie-Nilgiris connection Of student hanks to Dr. A. Raman’s article on Madras- (1863) who was private secretary to her father. TAustralia links (MM, February 1st), I got Breeks later became the first Commissioner of interested in Sir William Denison, Governor of the Nilgiris, independent of the original revenue research... and Madras, and hence the following jottings. jurisdiction under , in 1868. Breeks Sir William held the Governorship during soon rose to don the mantle of a free-lance 1861-66 (not as stated, until 1906 – Editor’s archaeologist. Breeks explored most of the a collection note: thank the printer’s devil). It was he who unique circular burial vaults dotted on the hill first mooted the question of the annual migra- tops. He has left for posterity an enduring and tion of the Government of Madras to the Nilgiri excellent collection of archaelogical and ethno- utt Road. Saint Thomas searched St. Patrick’s Road – Hills. The scheme was immediately sent up to logical materials. But as the apocryphal tongues BMount. this one goes off Butt Road into the Secretary of State, but was very firmly nega- would wag, the ghosts from these graves took The road to the hill. the colony. tived by him twice, once in 1861 and again in away his life, for Breeks tragically died of liver From the Kathipara round- And so from two teams, we 1862. However, from the 1880s, the proposal disease at the young age of 42 in 1872. The ema- about in Guindy, leading to the gained, a fair amount of infor- was implemented. nation of poisonous gas from these cairns and highway that leads to Banga- mation on two roads in St. Tho- More than what Sir William did (as Dr. cromlechs may have caused the damage to lore. mas’ Mount. Raman has noted) for the promotion of cin- Breeks’ liver! Had he lived longer, these proto- Butt Road. Every street, even the ones chona plantations, he is noted for the far-reach- megalithic remains may have yielded a lot more How did it get its name? which came up two decades ago ing initiative taken in the matter of the spread of historic insights. Three school students told have histories and lives. And of Eucalyptus. He brought about the first issue I suppose it may not be out of place to make us a part of the story. they tell us a lot of the place, the of orders for the formation of the plantations of mention also of Maj. (later Lt.Col) James They were students of Army past and the present. If only we these bluegum trees on all Government land in Lushington Morant, the famous Roads Engineer Public School in this neigh- care to explore them. And the European settlements of Ooty, of the Nilgiris who eventually retired to Austra- bourhood. They were among record them. and for the purpose of supplying fire- lia. Apart from his pioneering construction of the 13 school teams which took The simple work done by wood for the colonisers. Within the next many heritage buildings in the Nilgiris, the part in the annual Power Point these student teams encourages decade, the successful and “very profitable” cul- Nilgiri was actually his brain- Contest on the city’s history us – can we build further on the tivation of these Australian trees extended to child. It was he who first technically established and heritage that Mylapore basic work presented at this more than about 1,300 acres. What this inva- the feasibility of this rail link (1874). This Times host for Madras Week. contest and build an archive of sion meant for the Nilgiri landscape is an UNESCO-Heritage show piece came to be later Last year, the theme was the key streets in each Chennai entirely different story. constructed by Swiss entrepreneurs. And as for ‘Streetscapes’. neighbourhood? Sir William Denison, an efficient Governor, Australian missionaries, the descendants of mis- Can we also get senior also temporarily became the Viceroy in 1863, sionary Brough from Adelaide who worked in school and college students to owing to the death of Lord Elgin. Sir William Erode (1894 - 1934), in a rare gesture of good- enable this project and do so G moved to Calcutta and returned to Madras in will, returned a large number of artefacts of by better, using new technology 1864. Sir William was also the one who paved Vincent D’Souza ethnic and cultural interest taken by him from tools? the way for the establishment of a Municipality the Kongu region to Chennai Museum in 2000. I would like to hear from for Ooty. He also tried to plant Nilgiri tea in people – architects, tech-savvy the distant Peshwar hills (North West Frontier Rev. Philip K. Mulley youths, journalists, teachers – Province) but probably did not have the time to Anaihatti Road who could be interested in this Kotagiri 643 217 With SINA supporting us pursue it. project. The Nilgiris with the premises – that still- Sir William, surprisingly enough, took a be- cosy Srinivasa Sastri Hall nign interest also in the livelihood of the native The revenge of the Geek’s wife! * * * Badagas. He encouraged the Base Mission at (could be great if it was given ell hath no fury like a Geek’s wife scorned. better attention!) – this contest ottering around in the dens to construct an European loom there, MMM had the audacity to take on the has been held for over 12 years Pand cupboards of collectors “where Badaga boys wove excellent fabric”. It H wife of a software tycoon of an erstwhile princely now. calls for time. came to be actively patronised by the succes- state (MM, February 1st). The idea behind this event is Many of us in the old days sive households of Governors in Ooty. This en- to encourage senior school stu- would do this at Moore Market. terprise attracted a very good market among the In return, the infuriated woman evidently dents to explore their neigh- Recently I pottered around European planters and their families in Malabar got her good husband to infect MMM’s com- bourhoods, study and research in the houses of two friends – and as far as Coorg, Chickmaglur and puter with a bug and take him on where it hurts: and then make a presentation Winston of Anna Nagar and Mangalore. Many Christian Badaga families af- pepper his future columns with needless com- in public, tapping into their Moses of Kilpauk. fectionately remembered Sir William and chris- mas. As a show of the said power, the woman communication and public tened their children, William. This enterprise introduced a rogue comma right in the title of The duo were keen to have came to be abandoned by the English Wesleyan speaking skills. me over for some time and on MMM’s dream book, The Various Challenges, The team from Army Public Mission who took over the German work on the that Chennai Faced in 2015/16. that lazy Monday, I made the expulsion of all their missionaries at the out- School registered in a tad late. trip, discovering in the process Last heard, MMM had drowned himself in a Midway, it had doubts about break of the Great War, 1914. teaspoon of water. the changing face of East and A lasting contribution to Nilgiris by the the road they chose – Butt Road West Anna Nagar. – and decided to study NSC Denision family surfaced when SirWilliam’s G. Krishnan Winston is choosy about his Bose Road in north Chennai. daughter Susan Maria married J.W. Breeks [email protected] collection. He also trades them Finally, they settled for Butt smartly – he had to click on his Road. WhatsApp button at least once And they did a good job; highlight a sale of Chellaram’s. Moses told me that it was the garbage bins on our every hour to check if he had good enough to win the first It was torn and falling part. hard to get a buyer for his streets. any takers for the stuff he has prize that afternoon. It was yellow-brown. And it was unique collection but that did Photographs and photo offered. He did get a buser that Butt Road. sloppily designed. But it cer- not stop him from snapping a albums, letters and post cards, Monday: for the front page of There must have been a tainly told us a lot of a popular great piece if the price was right. paper clippings and certificates, The Hindu which featured the range here for shooting. The retail store’s business of this He also seemed keen to ex- souvenirs and wedding invita- first anniversary of India’s area at the foot of this hill was city. hibit his collection at campuses tions... All these tell stories. Of independence. one of the busiest training and In Kilpauk, it was Moses’ and community events. not only our lives but also those cantonment zones of the Brit- Winston has a knack of find- house which got my attention “I have seen children get of our neighbourhood. Our ish in Madras. And so you can ing gold nuggets in the tin sheds first. Among the last few still very excited when they see ink City. imagine how the road that and gunny bags of neighbour- standing since the 1960s, it was pens with special nibs,” he told How then do we create a sys- skirted the range got its name. hood waste dealers. First edition built in the era of City Improve- me. “I want young people to tem where we can invite fami- The students tell us that a books, War-time certificates, ment Trust (CIT), remnants of know the past.” lies to share these records that part of the road is called Binny school and club souvenirs. which survive in Nandanam, That Monday afternoon, would anyway be given to the Road and the part that skirts As I squeezed myself bet- Mylapore and T’Nagar. Moses’ well past lunchtime Moses and waste-paper agency or dumped the entrance to the steps that ween rows of overweight shel- house made a perfect space to Winston spoke about how stuff in the Ramky bin? take you to the summit of the ves packed with books, files and showcase his antique collec- collected at homes which can Winston and Moses have Mount is Butt Road. paper clippings, I chanced on a tions – clocks, pens, lamps and be value archival material is some ideas. If you too have Another school had re- ‘Bargain Newsheet’ put out to locks. destroyed when it is dumped in some, let me know. 4 MADRAS MUSINGS March 1-15, 2017 March 1-15, 2017 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 No more Rambling in West Mambalam (5) ... with Janaki Venkataraman – In the Temples and name of God? a theatre t is common knowledge that as old as the city of Madras is Idespite official Heritage Com- supposed to be – 377 years – but, – in a place with mittee decres Tamil Nadu pro- sadly, it succumbed to the wreck- hibiting the demolition of signifi- ers hammers. cant public buildings, these laws Even older was the Igreja da heart and soul are flouted on an almost daily Madre de Deus (Church of the basis. While some of these Mother of God) in São Tomé ‘crimes’ are noticed and raise at (Santhome). This church was est Mambalam residents balam temples is the Kali Bari in least a few voices in protest, the built in 1576, handed over to the Ware a temple-visiting lot. Umapathy Extension Street. Catholic Church seems to have Jesuits in 1977 and subsequently There are scores of temples in Inaugurated in 1981 by the got away with the largest num- become part of Dhyana Ashram. Image of the old Portuguese Church, Washermanpet. the area but three are of some Bengali community in Chennai, ber of demolitions and no one It was demolished in 1997 on the antiquity. The Kashi Vishwa- the small temple is a miniature of nathar temple is said to have the Kalighat Temple in Kolkata. seems to have noticed. grounds that it was dilapidated. church built by a small pioneer ers from ships due to unpaid ‘without the knowledge of the been built by Nayak Kings in the Around the temple have grown A few years ago there was This is surprising, given the repu- population. A vastly increased wages, men escaping poverty or archbishop’, as the parish priest 17th Century. On the stone controversy over the proposed tation of the Jesuits for progres- number of worshippers dictated harsh justice and even the odd of a few years ago told me. various welfare activities like free ceilings of the temple you can see medical camps, professional demolition and rebuilding of St sive thinking. That reputation is that a larger space for worship be deserting priest or two, who Pulicat was a thriving town of the fish emblems, the signature Teresa’s Church on Nungam- a thing of the past. Any building built, and a circular church was settled locally and traded exten- immense significance for both training courses for women, vol- of the Nayak dynasty. The unteering for relief work during bakkam High Road. Arguments would be dangerous if it does not added in 1970, adjacent to the sively with Malaya, Indonesia, the (informal) Portuguese pres- temple stands on land that was natural calamities, and poor Srinivasa Theatre, West Mambalam. for and against flew thick and receive regular maintenance, but original. Part of the original was Japan and China. Many became ence and the (official) Dutch once covered by vilva trees. The fast, but eventually the original maintenance, along with conser- demolished. The result may not enormously wealthy in the pro- VOC (Vereenigde Oost- feeding. The Kali Bari’s Puja cel- as there is a local demand for in 1994, the eatery has now be- shop to buy their poli-s, bonda-s lingam is swayambu (found, not ebration is huge and attracts church, built in 1912, was re- vation, seem to be two words be picturesque, but at least some cess, to the great envy of the Indische Compagnie = United them. come successful enough to open or vadai-s for their families, the made) and it is said Shiva tained and renovated in what that have vanished from most In- of the original church (or its re- French, Dutch and English. Company), but it fell devotees from all over Chennai. And the ticket price is still no another branch in Mambalam. It stall’s bulk orders come from the appeared in the dream of the The during Puja has most agree is a tasteful manner. dian vocabularies. built version) has been retained. These European newcomers to into ruin after the British got annadanam more than Rs. 30. Closer to the began with a single item on its film fraternity.“All the TV and Nayak king and ordered him to The same idea seems to be in the India went to great lengths to hold of it and systematically de- a huge fan following for its sheer screen it can even be seven ru- menu list – puran poli-s. Poli-s, film shooting companies order in build the temple. pipeline for the Igreja de Nossa stroyed the substantial fort and variety and taste. pees. Best of all, you can take in which came to southern cuisine bulk from us. Many stars also or- Abutting one wall of the Senhora da Expectação on St all major buildings, just as they Do people in West Mam- your own snacks, as long as they via Maharashtra, are festive der for themselves personally,” G temple is the Mambalam wing of Thomas' Mount, but the focus Text & pictures did in Armagon when moving to are not too messy, and you are dishes in most Tamil homes. says the manager. He is quick to the Kanchi Kamakoti Mutt. balam have any interest in secu- there is clearly revenue: there are by Fort St George, in case it fell into not forced to buy popcorn at ri- “We wanted to do something dif- add. “But our prices have re- There is a shrine for the Goddess lar entertainment? It might not prominent signs everywhere lit- the hands of a foreign power and diculously high prices. “It was in ferent. So instead of the usual mained affordable. When we Simeon Mascarenhas Kamakshi here and a lot of poojas seem so. The only film theatre in erally screaming “Have you paid became a threat to English (later Srinivasa that the Ajith Kumar- snacks and sweets we specialised started making bonda-s we and homam-s are performed every the whole area is Srinivasa The- for taking photographs/videos/ British) imperial designs. Shalini starrer, Amarkalam (in in poli-s,” says the manager at the charged just 50 paise for a bonda. day. Sanskrit scholars meet here atre that was built back in 1963. community meals?” even if you entice these Luso-Indian families Judging from the few remain- which much of the action takes stall. The soft, fluffy outer cover- Now we charge five rupees. to discuss the Vedas. On a more There also used to be National are walking up the gravel path to live under their dubious ‘pa- ing pictures, Nossa Senhora da place in an old film theatre) was ing and the dal or coconut and Given that we use the best pos- secular level, there is provision for Theatre but this was torn down leading to the church. tronage’. To add to the mix, Glória was clearly built in the shot,” Madhavan informs me. jaggery filling has to be of the sible materials and oils, can you collecting and exchanging com- some years ago and there is a The Church of São Roque many sailors and soldiers in the 17th Century, like most chur- “They shot upstairs and then right consistency for a truly suc- find anybody who can beat our munity-wise horoscopes to ar- commercial complex in its place (St. Roque’s) is Washermanpet Portuguese forces and on trading ches in the Iberian world. Alter- right here on the front. Everyone cessful poli. Venkateswara prices?” I am reminded of Sudha range weddings. Perhaps the now. Srinivasa is a large theatre in said to date from 1814, a cem- vessels came from just about ev- ations and a Gothic front were from around this neighbourhood seemed to get it right every time. Ravi’s observation,“In Mamba- most interesting part of the Mutt with a seating capacity of 1000. etery for Catholics having ex- ery European nation, especially added in 1888. That’s when the came to watch. It was like a festi- It was an instant success. Poli-s lam you can live for far less than is the Goshala (cow shelter)in the “Hardly 150 people come to the isted on the site since 1776. This England, France, Spain, the roof was weakened at the junc- val!” flew off the shelves as quickly as anywhere else in the city. That’s backyard. At least a 100 cows re- shows now,’’ sighs Madhavan was the main burial ground for Netherlands, Switzerland, and tion of the new and the old, the Walking down Arya Gowda they were made. Then a savoury, because the people here are kind side here, mostly donated as who worked at the ticket counter the Luso-Indians of what is now West and East Africa. Whatever contrast between chunam and ce- Road, past the little herbal medi- masala poli, was added to the enough to really understand the calves by various devotees. The from 1965 to 1980 and who still the George Town area. None of their origin, they remained ment, making it prone to leaking. cine shops and pori-kadalai menu and this too has proved problems of the poor.” Other cow sheds have also been donated hangs out at the theatre to pass it exists, a horrible concrete Catholic, to the great disappoint- In 2012 or 2013, the original shops, and taking a turn into popular. Over the years the poli places have glamour and flash by philanthropists and the cows time. With all the youngsters shed-like structure having taken ment and disgust of the Dutch. church was demolished and re- Thambiah Reddy Street, you stall has added many other but Mambalam seems to have are obviously well looked after. thronging the mutiplexes in it place. Even more frightening is ALL “Portuguese” churches in placed by an ugly concrete hulk come across a small eatery called snacks and sweets to its menu. heart and soul. On the day I visited it, it was other parts of the city, Srinivasa Madre de Deus church, São Tomé: The entrance is all that is left of the original the avenue of statues of saints and around Madras, therefore, that sits incongruously next to Venkateswara Poli Stall. Started While local residents stop at the (Concluded) Dwadasi, the twelfth day of the has been steadily losing clientele church. Note date of erection or renovation of lychgate – 1748. leading to the front door, every were erected and maintained by the beautiful old Hindu temple lunar fortnight, and visitors were over the years. But it is still a well one of them liberally painted in local people, born and brought up and a short street away from the A building that has been familiar Also in São Tomé and rebuilt feeding the cows bundles of agathi maintained place. The side doors colours that will destroy the most in the local area, NOT by some exquisite little pioneer-style to citizens of Madras for at least twice is the church of Santo keerai. The cows here don’t grab are wide open letting in a breeze. resilient of eyes, even those pro- far-off foreign “power”. They are chapel of St Anthony. The par- CHURCHES NO MORE four generations has survived Lazaro, or St Lazarus’s Church. the food, they take a casual, al- When the show is on, screens are tected with polarised sunglasses. products of local finances, local ish priest at the time I visited the and provides some comforting The earliest church records go most elegant, mouthful, and drawn across the doorways. (Continued from page 4) Every single Catholic church and which incorporates repre- A single glance will do. workmanship under an increas- village insisted that “nobody, not continuity in an increasingly back to 1582. In 1637, it was re- chew thoughtfully. If you are born There is no air-conditioning, but in and around Madras carries the sentative architectural features Incidentally, what records ing exchange of ideas and tech- even the bishop, knew anything manner. No doubt similar de- alienating city. built, again probably to accom- a cow in Chennai this is probably the sound system has been up- name of a similar one in Portu- of European, Islamic and Hindu generally refer to as Portuguese niques, and places of worship for about the demolition”. Yet the struction is taking place in other Many churches of far greater modate a growing population. In a good place to be. Mambalam, in dated. gal: Tomé, Antonio, Roque traditions. But what of the older, are in fact Luso-Indians who people who had not the slightest website of this same church car- parts of Tamil Nadu, particularly historic and archaeological sig- 1928, during the religious revival fact, has a number of Hindu reli- (pron. ro-kay) and Sebastião are very historic churches? How spoke both Portuguese and intention of going ‘home’. They ries a photograph of the Arch- Srinivasa’s claim to fame dur- in the Tuticorin area. There is no nificance, however, have not sur- of the late 19th and early 20th gious mutts including the Sringeri all extremely important saints in many more of them will be qui- Tamil, there being very few white were home just as much as a lo- bishop of Madras-Mylapore, Rev ing its heyday was that it screened shortage of money in India, and vived. Take, for instance, the Centuries, it was rebuilt in late Mutt, off Arya Gowda Road, and Portugal. Our Lady reigns su- etly demolished to make way for Portuguese males and even less cal Hindu or Muslim. Chinappa declaring the church a every MGR starrer. All three religious organisations of every church of Nossa senhora da Gothic style, like the São Tomé the Raghavendra Mutt that is preme, especially after João IV of an increased number of dona- white women on the Coroman- The Church Nossa Senhora shrine on September 29, 2012. shows ran full in those days. “On denomination are raking the assuncão, popularly known as basilica and thousands of actually off Gopathi Narayana- Portugal consecrated the Crown tions? In most other (and en- del Coast until about the begin- do Descanso is, as far as I know, Hmm…. the hundredth day celebration of stuff in like never before. the Portuguese Church, in Por- churches across the Christian swami Chetti Road, close to of Portugal to the Virgin Mary in lightened) countries the preser- ning of the 19th Century. Inter- not open to the public. It may Naturally, a burgeoning popu- Enga Veettu Pillai, MGR and I have seen churches in Por- tuguese Church Street. It was world. At the time, this style of Panagal Park. 1646. No monarch of Portugal vation of historically significant marriage was simply the norm, have been altered since its erec- lation needs greater space for Saroja Devi came here in person. tugal of exactly the same kind of first built in 1640, and subse- church architecture offered thin- The Kothanda Ramar Tem- has ever worn a crown since religious buildings ensures a especially on the east coast, and tion in the 17th Century. I shall worship. But in the effort to pro- I saw them this close!” Madhavan design and construction as the quently rebuilt in 1749 to ac- ner walls that could support ple, just a stone’s throw away then, although a diadem was steady income from tourists, the resulting Euroindian com- have to do more research on this vide this, I don’t see why we can- recalls, excitement still lingering old ones we have in India. Many commodate a growing Catholic higher ceilings than those of ear- from the Kashi Vishwanatha present at state functions until many of them with no religious munity was the basis of what is church before I can comment on not preserve the original build- in his voice. Even when there are even older than the Indian population of Luso-Indians lier Romanesque designs, allow- temple, is said to be at least 150 the abolition of the monarchy in beliefs whatsoever. It also does today quite erroneously called it. ings or at least incorporate them were no MGR films being churches, and they are in per- (people of mixed Portuguese and ing more light and the accommo- years old and is peaceful and 1910. wonders for national pride. Anglo-Indian. ALL Portuguese The biggest puzzle is how a into the new in a tasteful and screened elsewhere in the city, fectly good condition. Bricks and Indian ethnicity) who had lived dation of a larger congregation. well-maintained. So also is the One of the most sensitive Short-sightedness on the part of males on the east coast of India, major church, Nossa Senhora da archaeologically sensitive you could be sure that there chunam hold up extremely well in the area for at least 100 years The church on Little Mount Adi Kesava Perumal Temple on renovations I have seen is that our authorities can only do from Cape Comorin (Cabo Glória (originally Nossa Senhora would be one to see at Srinivasa. in our Indian climate, as long as before the arrival of the English. (Chinna Malai) in Saidapet is an Govindan Street. Perhaps the carried out on Votive Shrine, damage that can never be Cumari) to Ugulim (Hooghly) de Alegria = our Lady of Joy) in The theatre still screens MGR water is not allowed to seep into It was demolished in 1993. It is excellent example of the type of most unusual of West Mam- Kilpauk, a church built in 1952, reversed. were private adventurers, desert- Pulicat, could be demolished (Continued on page 5) movies as well as other classics it. Hence the sloping tile roofs. 6 MADRAS MUSINGS March 1-15, 2017 NOSTALGIA The West End of Madras

hat title might lead readers casually, the men often in suits Tto expect my theme to be and, at times, in black and on the West End of Madras, like white with bow tie, probably to the real West End of London, attend a banquet after the the residential area of the rich show. I have heard it said that elite and one that is close to the many of them had the facility of seat of power. My subject, how- signing chits for a consolidated ever, is a different West End; it bill to be sent at the month end, is not an elitist area of Madras very much like today’s practice but a cinema house with that in Clubs. Now and then, tour- name. My recollection, stretch- ing Shakespearean troupes from Once West End, then Midland, still later Jayaprada Theatre. ing back to the 1940s, centre on England staged their shows at the West End cinema on the West End. mand was very much larger and Olivia D’Havilland, Hedy and Madras to take the “reels” General Patter’s Road (name of There were then three cin- the available “reel” copies were Lamarr were the famous female back and forth. the road, thankfully, remains ema houses, other than West just a few for the whole prov- stars of Hollywood whose pic- The Wellington buildings unchanged) where now stands End, that showed English mov- ince. Just one theatre in the city ture cards were sought after. and the adjoining large estate a dilapidated dysfunctional ies – New Elphinstone located had to exhibit the movie till the The male stars who captured extending from Cosmopolitan building bearing the name in, what was called Round entire demand was satisfied, vir- the imagination were Clark Club to about half the length of Jayapradha Theatre. This struc- Tana, opposite the present new tually in batches. Haridas star- Gable, Cary Grant, Ronald General Patter’s Road – known ture is not the same as that of secretariat structure, Roxy in ring the popular singing star Colman, James Stewart, as the Dinroze Estate – was the original West End but built Purasawalkam and Minerva in M.K. Thiagaraja Bhagavathar, Charles Boyer, Tyrone Power, owned by the Italias of Hydera- on that site. Suffice it to say Broadway. But West End was ran for 50-60 weeks! Errol Flynn, Spencer Tracy, bad. The senior Jamshed Italia, that, as a schoolboy were my most preferred due to its first The Roxy had the second Wallace Beery, Eddie Cantor. Squadron Leader by rank – haunts and the West End was Notable omissions in this list are served in the Nizam’s Air Force one. unintended and due to fading – was the lessor. Later he West End was then the pre- memory. became also a partner with G by N.S. Parthasarathy mier cinema theatre for English, Framji in Wellington Cinema. Movies were produced in ‘se- mainly movies, and as such, was The front part of the Welling- ries’ to hold audience interest. largely patronised by members ton building was the show room Here are a few examples of se- of the British community in the run of the movies. Roxy catered of the Wellington Cycle Com- claim on new releases. Because ries that were popular – the city. Their number was quite to the large Anglo-Indian pany for Raleigh and Hercules of the limited audience, each Road series: Road to Rio, Road to substantial air included those community in the Vepery- cycles imported in knock-down movie needed only a week’s Singapore, Road to Morocco, who served in senior positions Purasawalkam area. Elphin- condition in boxes, re- exhibition to cover the demand. starring Bob Hope and Bing in banks, business houses, stone’s attraction was the soda assembled and sold. The cin- Generally, there was a weekly Crosby, who separated later; courts and government. On a fountain. It was a popular venue ema business survived the cycle change, but big “road shows”, the Bud Abbot and Lou rough count, West End had a for college students cutting company and did well exhibit- as they were called, had Costello comedies; the Boy’s seating capacity of about 300- classes to hang out in. Minerva ing Tamil movies. For many enough ticket sales to justify a Town series with the inimitable 400 divided into two common carved out an interesting niche years Wellington had a strong second-week run. There was Mickey Rooney-Judy Garland classes besides the first class for itself – it specialised in mutually reinforcing relation- enough supply of English mov- pair; the Belvedere series like and, above all, what was called reviving old English classics, ship with S.S. Vasan of Gemini ies to keep up with this rapid Mr Belvedere Goes to College the Dress Circle. Gentlemen had a compact small hall and Studios. Wellington was promi- change. starring David Niven; the and ladies of the expat commu- had air-conditioning, all sug- nently located which Vasan As an aside, Tamil movies, Charlie Chaplin series and the nity, occupying the Dress gesting exclusiveness; the last wanted for the premiere of his in contrast, ran for several Laurel and Hardy series which Circle, were dressed more than mentioned was a rare comfort box office record-breaking weeks to full houses as the de- gave way to Abbot and Costello those days. Globe and Casino movies. who were followed by Dean came later to avail of the It was a synergy that lasted Martin and Jerry Lewis. increasing popularity of English many years with Wellington CHENNAI HERITAGE movies. Casino switched to West End and Wellington, showing box office hits like Tamil movies unable to bear located within a furlong of each Chandralekha, Mangamma No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 the language competition from other, were on lease with the Sabhatham, Apoorva Sagodha- I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / I Gaiety cinema next door which two Dorabji brothers who, rargal. The strategy worked out have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it hereafter. was of very old vintage, going by probably, were one of the oldest well as evidenced by the fact G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for its dilapidated masonry and zinc Parsi families in Madras. The that Wellington outlasted West Rs. 100 (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI sheet roof. descendants of Burjoji Dorabji End by many years. The West HERITAGE, MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings MGM, Paramount and were still in Royapuram where I End property was owned by for the year 2015-16. Warner Bros of Hollywood had met them at a party a couple of A.K. Ramachandra Iyer. When one-person, one room offices in time came for renewal for the G years ago. The brothers were As token of my support for the causes of heritage, the city to distribute the “reels” lease, the talks broke down be- environment and a better city that Madras Musings espouses, running the two cinema busi- I send Chennai Heritage an additional to cinema houses, mainly in nesses first in partnership and cause, according to rumour Rs...... Madras, and to the very few subsequently separately – West then, the landlord wanted a (Rupees ...... ) Please upcountry in accordance with End with Burjoji Dorabji and partnership which Burjoji was keep/put me on your mailing list. pre-determined priority turns Wellington with Framji unwilling to give. Burjoji gave Name : ...... and collect the agreed share of Dorabji. West End rendered up his interest and moved to ...... revenue for credit to their bank valuable service to the armed Bombay. A.R. Srinivasan, son accounts. of Ramachandra Iyer, took over Address: ...... forces stationed in Avadi during ...... Collection of colourful leaf- the World War II. Burjoji’s and continued the business un- All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be sent by lets on art paper and signed sons, Jamshed (Jam) and Homi, der a new style as Midland The- Speed Post only. photo cards of Hollywood stars shared the responsibility, one atre. Midland continued as an was a popular hobby among staying at Avadi to run the exclusive English Cinema till movie buffs. Greta Garbo, armed forces cinema house and about the late 1950s and, in due Norma Shearer, Ginger Rogers, the other shuttling, on his mo- course, had to submit to the Our Quiz Master V.V. Ramanan is on holiday. His column Betty Grable, Bette Davis, tor cycle, initially, and later by a Tamil tide and eventually shut will resume on his return. Grace Kelly, Rita Hayworth, Morris tourer, between Avadi down altogether. March 1-15, 2017 MADRAS MUSINGS 7 The travails of garment workers he middle finger of my textile sector because a cousin governmental organisation from the factories or hostels, Consequently, they lack confi- “Tright hand is now perma- advised her to do so, but she based in Tiruppur that champi- risking their lives or injuring dence and courage to demand nently bent, after my hand got wasn’t told about the problems ons the rights of socio-economi- themselves. And all too often their rights, individually or col- stuck in the spinning machine she would have to face. cally marginalised individuals even those who have the grit to lectively. at a mill where I was working,” The work involved standing and communities. Soon, the stay the course find that the * * * says 17-year-old Kalaichelvi. “If in a hot, dusty, overcrowded girls will be inducted into a schemes that kindled their The toil and travails of I had not withdrawn my hand space for 12 consecutive hours technical diploma course at an hopes are only empty promises. women like Kalaichelvi and immediately, I may have injured from 8.30 am onwards, resulting ITI-affiliated institution. “We Many girls who are near com- others have been recorded on myself more – lost my fingers or in burning eyes, rashes, frequent are equipping the girls with al- pleting the three-year tenure celluloid in Dollar City, a docu- my whole hand,” she adds with bouts of fever, aching legs and ternative skills so that they can are branded as thieves or poor mentary by acclaimed film- a shudder. stomach problems. There were become self-reliant and also performers and denied the maker Amudhan R.P. The film Kaiaichelvi received first-aid no designated breaks for meals, overcome their bad experi- chunk payment. portrays the realities of the lives but her employer provided no relaxing or using the washroom, ences. Further, we make them Also called the camp coolie of various garment industry further medical assistance, and nor even paid leave, except a understand their basic rights system, Sumangali Thittam ac- workers in and around Tirup- it was left to her parents to take fortnightly day off. As her work- and entitlements and how to counts for about 1.2 lakh of the pur. It contrasts the contented her to a doctor for treatment. place was far away from her access them,” says Mary V., estimated 4 lakh workers in the life of the elderly Vyjayantimala Although the treatment was home, Kalaichelvi commuted programme manager, SAVE. nearly 1900 spinning mills of and her husband, who are very expensive, she got no by a bus that the employer op- Tamil Nadu. Interventions home-based weavers, with that * * * healthcare support from her from trade unions, courts and of their tailor son who is trying employer. The wound took the government on behalf of the to migrate to a metro. And then around three months to heal, ● Lured by the promise of lump-sum pay- workers have been unsuccess- there is a young boy who was and she had to discontinue her ments, young girls from marginalised ful, as the mill owners are rarely forced to work in inhuman con- job. “Even now, the pain recurs sections all over India submit to what is penalised or punished. Also, ditions in a spinning mill to sup- every once in a while,” says the virtually bonded labour, working long most workers and their families port his family, before being re- girl. hours in gruelling conditions. In Tiruppur, are silent despite sexual harass- habilitated. The contamination Kalaichelvi, who worked for Tamil Nadu’s textile hub, and in Dindigul, ment and abuse of the girls, and of the Noyyal River and the at- a year at private spinning mills Coimbatore and nearby districts of the sometimes even their death, mosphere by the micro-dust and later at a garment-manu- State, girls and women from socio-eco- fearing backlash. and waste from the garment facturing factory in Tiruppur nomically marginalised families are lured Workers from Andhra factories are also brought out in District, is the second daughter into working in the mills All too often, the Pradesh, Odisha and West Ben- the film – real life issues that of a couple who eke out a living promises turn out to be false, leaving gal have minimal social net- must be urgently addressed. in the unorganised sector. Her their lives and health shattered, says works in their work locations. (Courtesy: Grassroots.) 35-year-old mother is an agri- PUSHPA ACHANTA. cultural worker while her fa- ther, three years older, assists erated. Her monthly wages av- Being secretive about age is sand miners. They earn Rs 120 eraged Rs 8000 before contribu- common among the lakhs of Statement about Ownership and and Rs 200 a day, respectively. tions to the provident fund and young workers in the spinning other particulars about newspaper The couple’s elder daughter, Employees State Insurance mills and garment manufactur- who is 20, works in a garment Schemes were deducted. After ing factories in Tiruppur, (As required to be published under Section 19-D factory, while their youngest a three-month break to recover Dindigul, Coimbatore and child is a school-going son. Sub-section (b) from the injury at the spinning nearby districts of Tamil Nadu. of the Press and Registration of Books Act with Rule 8 Kalaichelvi studied up to mill, she joined a knitwear Girls and women between 12 Class IX before discontinuing manufacturing factory where and 21 years old from socio-eco- of the Registration of Newspaper (Central Rules), 1956.) her studies. The problem was the working conditions were nomically marginalised families that her native village lacks a Form IV slightly better, although the su- are lured into working in the Madras Musings (Fortnightly) high school and the nearest in- pervisors there, most of them mills under what is known as stitution is not only 11 kilo- men, were harsh too. the Sumangali Thittam – trans- 1. Place of Publication : Chennai (Madras) metres away from her house, A few weeks ago, Kalaichelvi lating as ‘wedding plans’, these 2. Periodicity of its publication : Fortnightly but there is also no reliable and friend Satya, age 15, who are employment schemes 3. Printer’s name : Mr. Anu Varghese transport available. Also, the also worked in a garment fac- floated by textile companies to financial challenges the family tory, quit their jobs to learn the lure young girls into what is vir- Nationality : Indian was facing caused her to decide basics of computers with the tually bonded labour. Address : M/s. Lokavani Southern Printers Pvt. Ltd. to go to work. She chose the backing of SAVE, a non- Recruiting agents promise No. 122, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006 them a lump sum of Rs 30,000- 4. Publisher’s Name : Mr. S. Muthiah for Chennai Heritage 50000 (towards their dowry) at Nationality : Indian the end of a three-year contract Address : No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, The work ahead term. Apart from the abysmal Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 working conditions, they are 5. Editor’s Name : Mr. S. Muthiah housed in dingy rooms in hos- (Continued from page 1) Nationality : Indian tels. They have to respond to Address : No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, summons to work at any time services and use of technology for proper disposal of wastages are Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 with minimal or no overtime urgently needed. 6. Names and addresses of : 1. Mr. N. Sankar Director The standard of education in the State is considered deplor- compensation. They cannot individuals who own the S/o (Late) Mr. K.S. Narayanan able, by leading educationists who point to the unemployability of contact their families or friends graduates and lack of skills in school-leavers. This is something easily and are not permitted to publication 292, T.T.K. Road that has to be tackled immediately, not least by insisting on higher go out much, except for a four- Alwarpet, Chennai 600 018 standards both from students and teachers. or six-day biannual unpaid va- 2. Mr. M.V. Subbiah Director cation. S/o (Late) A.M.M.Vellayan Chettiar And as has been stated in these columns in the past, industry 10, Boat Club Road, Chennai 600 028 and investment are at the moment not particularly in favour of the Hence, the girls fall ill or be- State. come depressed, needing treat- I hereby declare that the particulars given above are true to the The agenda list is only illustrative. It is to show that Tamil Nadu ment, and tend to leave before best of my knowledge and belief. cannot wait. It cannot afford to lose its race for pre-eminence in the three-year period, thereby Sd. S. MUTHIAH good governance and development. It is time for the EPS Govern- losing the promised lump sum. (Publisher) ment to give the State a wake-up call. Also, some girls try escaping 8 MADRAS MUSINGS March 1-15, 2017 Madras sports writers to remember

aving closely followed the sincere and handsome tributes N.S. Ramaswami who was a S.K. Gurunathan. P.N. Sundaresan. N.S. Ramaswami. Hsports pages of the news- paid by cricketers and officials contemporary of Gurunathan papers in the city first as a young when he died underlined the and Sundaresan, was a writer of sports lover and then as a stature he commanded among a very different kind. He was same time was T. Govindarajan his knowledge of various sports professional sports writer, it has the cricket fraternity in India straight out of the Neville of The Hindu who was known to profound and he wielded a fac- been my good fortune to be and abroad. Cardus school and in fact young and old simply as TG. ile pen. He could write with au- influenced by many outstanding Gurunathan was succeeded adopted the nom de plume ‘The Few writers could be more viv- thority on a number of sports seniors in the field. Chennai that both as cricket correspondent of Cardusian’ when penning his idly descriptive in their match and the best tribute I can pay was Madras has produced some The Hindu and as editor of In- column ‘In the pavilion’ for the reports as TG and you could re- him is to state that I used to of the finest sports writers in the dian Cricket by P.N. Sundare- Indian Express in the 1960s. It ally visualise through his writ- read his articles no matter on country whose writing has been san. Popularly known as PNS or made for delightful reading as ings the action as it happened. which sport it was written. For an ideal blend of the colourful Raja, Sundaresan freely ac- he would describe the happen- He wrote effortlessly on all example, my knowledge of and the knowledgeable. knowledged his predecessor as ings of a nondescript third divi- sports but specialised in tennis horse racing is next to nil but The first name that comes to his guru but he was no what less sion or fourth division league and football. He was particu- when Jacob wrote a comment mind is S.K. Gurunathan. For when he stepped into those big match while sitting under a tree larly pleased when Neale Fraser, piece on events at Guindy, I was almost a decade, from 1958 up shoes. A sober and knowledge- at the Marina or Vivekananda the Australian captain during an avid reader. I found his style to his death in 1966, he was the the Davis Cup tie against India easy to follow. He stuck to the Sports Editor of The Hindu. By at in 1970, took cop- basics, never indulged in hyper- then he had earned an exalted ies of the newspaper along with bole and the phrases followed in status as one of the leading G by Partab Ramchand him saying that the reports were a neat context. For balanced cricket writers in the country. some of the best he had read. judgement on sporting events, Not for him the frills and the For me, TG will always have JC as he was popularly known, hype associated with today’s able writer, he too specialised in College. A scholarly writer who a special place for he was my had few equals. sports writing, for he was basi- cricket though he wrote felici- specialised in literary descrip- writing hero. I loved his style, cally a very serious writer who tously on tennis and hockey tions of players and events, complete with the apt phrase Fortunately, even during the concentrated on facts and fig- too. Sundaresan also succeeded NSR, as he was popularly and faultless English. As a active days of The Mail Jacob ures but blended them with a Gurunathan as Indian corre- known, was also a keen student youngster, I tried to ape his had been appointed Sports Cor- neat turn of phrase and impec- spondent for Wisden. For me, of history and archaeology and style, not with much success I respondent for The Times of In- cable English. Sundaresan will always have a he was perhaps at his happiest am afraid. Seeing this he ad- dia and he reported for that A writer who wielded con- special place in my life for it was describing places associated vised me to develop my own newspaper almost till his last siderable influence, SKG or he who brought me into the with the Indus Valley Civili- style, adding that he should be days. Shortly after I joined the Guru as he was popularly profession in 1968. sation while covering the In- taken “not as an example but as profession, a senior colleague known to his colleagues, was Sundaresan retired from The dian team’s tour of Pakistan in a warning” given his general told me that K N Prabhu, then the founder editor of Indian Hindu in 1974 but continued 1978. cavalier approach to the profes- Sports Editor of The Times of Cricket, an almanac based on writing on a freelance basis for Cricket-wise nothing sion. TG retired in 1989 and India had given instructions to Wisden, .... from 1947 to 1965. Sportsweek magazine. Hewrote pleased NSR more than the aes- hardly wrote on sport thereaf- the news desk that not even a He was also the Indian corre- a couple of books and brought thetics of the game and who can ter. His death in a road accident word of Jacob’s copy was to be spondent for Wisden. In days out various publications on be- forget his masterly description in 1998 came as a big shock to edited. Such was the confi- when touring abroad was al- half of the BCCI. Sundaresan of Gundappa Viswanath’s im- the sporting fraternity in the dence and respect that Prabhu, most unheard of, Gurunathan passed away in 1994 and among mortal 97 not out against the city, while for me it was a great himself a doyen among sports covered the Indian team’s tour the many who came to his West Indies at Chepauk in personal loss. writers, had for Jacob who of England in 1952 and also house off Kasturi Ranga Road 1975? NSR also worked for The And, finally how can one started his career in journalism went to Pakistan to cover the to pay their respects was MJ Hindu and post-retirement forget J.C. Jacob? He was the in 1937. He passed away in 1954-55 tour. A traditionalist Gopalan, then well into his 80s wrote match reports for news Sports Editor of The Mail, the 2002 at the age of 89. Editor’s and a stickler for detail, and walking with the help of a agencies. He passed away in city evening daily that was Note: He was Madras Musings’ Gurunathan’s copy was eagerly stick, symbolising the respect 1987. around for well over 100 years Sports Correspondent from its looked forward to every morn- Gurunathan enjoyed from the Another outstanding sports before it folded up in 1982. beginning, writing fortnightly ing in the days of Radio. The sports fraternity. writer in the city around the Jacobs English was exemplary, till he passed away.

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PublishedPublished by S. byMuthiah, S. Muthiah Lokavani for SouthernëChennai Printers Heritageí, Pvt. 260-A,Ltd., 122, TTK Greams Road, Road,Chennai Chennai 600 018600 and006. printedPrinted by AnuT J GeorgeVarghese at at Lokavani-Hallmark Lokavani Southern PressPrinters Pvt. Pvt. Ltd., Ltd., 122, 122, Greams Greams Road,Road, Chennai 600600 006,006. and Edited edited by byS. S.MUTHIAH. Muthiah.