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• The Sethu & the weather • Home of Music & Art MADRAS • The romance of the NMR • A life of hell MUSINGS • Softball in Madras Rs. 5 per copy Vol. XV No. 8 August 1-15, 2005 (Annual Subscription: Rs. 100/-) World Heritage status for NMR (By A Correspondent) he Nilgiri Mountain Rail- You are a minute late... We just sold T way (NMR) has been the last copy... There he goes! given World Heritage status by the World Heritage Commit- Gee...Wiz....! tee. The committee renamed The last two weeks of July proved the Nilgiri traumatic. Homes witnessed and the Darjeeling Himalayan feverish activity and loud Railway as Mountain Railways arguments. of India. This brings to a suc- The ugly head of competition reared its...er...ugly head, wear- cessful conclusion the efforts of ing its one-upmanship hat, to the Southern Railway, the boot. National Rail Museum, Delhi, (Bit weird — that sentence. Not quite and the Railway Board, which sure how.) began in 1999, to get this All because a book about a certain imprimatur. boy wizard hit the stands. In September 2004, Prof. The brouhaha was largely over Robert Lee from Sydney, Aus- The Nilgiri Mountain Railway steams up the Blue Mountain ghats before retrofitment with an oilfiring system. — who got to The Book first. tralia, visited the Nilgiris as part (Courtesy: Southern Railway.) Children leapt out of bed, display- ing speed which stunned long- of a UNESCO team and evalu- suffering parents, and young and ated the properties of the NMR, old staggered and stumbled to including its buildings, bridges How to get our act bookshops (happy people, these and other structures. guys) in dim, pre-sunrise dark- The mountain railway con- ness, with adults pretending they necting Mettupalayam to were “doing this for the kid- Udhagamandalam was con- together during disasters dies”. structed in 1908. The railway’s Deals were struck through various rack and pinion mechanism so ost-tsunami, there has been in developing effective early policy, which should also incor- family layers, and time-tables as to gain height, its steam en- Pa flurry of activity in the warning systems. porate cross-cutting pro- and schedules set to ensure equal areas affected – in disaster grammes. distribution. All attempts on gines, coaches and station l A National Observation part of adults to pull rank or buildings have all been preser- mitigation, volunteerism, and System, with subsidiaries at l Coordination and cooper- resort to bribery were speedily ved in their original shape and relief and rehabilitation. There local levels going up to villages, ation – either from grassroot to suppressed by savvy youngsters. impressed Lee, who declared have also been many workshops with incorporation of vital top or from a large organisation There were discordant voices... them “testimony to the tech- away from these areas, ground level information. to smaller ones, aiming at (they do come leaping out of the involving think tank groups and nological skills of a bygone era.” l Psycho-social help during agency-level coordination and woodwork wherever there’s a “It is genuinely outstanding, the various stakeholders. At a disasters. not individual specific. success story, don’t they?)... even unique,” the 29th session recent discussion in Chennai holding long discourses on The participants had point- of the World Heritage Commit- jointly organised by the l by ed out the following: ‘social relevance’, ‘escapist National Institute of Disaster work’, and making sniffy digs at tee observed, noting the “ge- SHOBHA MENON ‘clever marketing’. Whatever... nius” of the late 19th Century Management (NIDM), the On disaster preparedness railway engineers. India Habitat Centre (IHC) Look, if a humungous mass of l Disaster preparedness and l Equipment for disaster people, distinguished by its vari- The 46 km railway line was and the Centre for Security mitigation should be aimed at relief to network within ety, can, for one brief moment, first proposed in 1854, but the Analysis (CSA), the final (instead of only disaster mitiga- themselves and be on a 24-hour partake happily, unapolo- tough mountainous terrain recommendations pointed out tion). getically, in a global pheno- posed several challenges and the imperative need for: alert. menon for fun, if even jaded l Disaster preparedness actual work was taken up only l Upgradation of early warn- l Environmental education should go in tune with deve- adults can get a thrill out of a in 1891. The railway line, ini- ing systems. and disaster awareness as a simple fantasy saga — then there lopment activities. tially laid from Mettupalayam l Efficient dissemination of compulsory element in school is hope for a race which has done l The disaster preparedness everything possible over to , was opened in information on disaster. education. component should be incorpo- centuries to earn the sobriquet (Continued on Page 6) l A standardised code for l To get our act together rated in rehabilitation. during trouble-free times and ‘Nature’s-biggest-goof-up-to- information collection and l A multi-hazard approach date’. dissemination. not wait for disasters to strike. Ranjitha Ashok Also see pages 4 & 5 l International collaboration l Volunteer induction (Continued on Page 2) 2 MADRAS MUSINGS August 1-15, 2005

l The Sethu Project Animal travails in Impact of cyclones Guindy Park ome to the Children’s Park, Guindy, to watch the “Cexquisite Rosy or White Pelicans floating buoyantly and tsunamis in the water,” proclaims a Chennai travel-based website. The sheer size of the birds strikes the eyes of visitors (Continued from last i.e. 24 cms/year. The two legs of fected, the death toll said to be to the Park. Larger than the vulture, the Rosy Pelicans fortnight) the SSCP where dredging is re- over 30,000 . It is also reported themselves may be striking, but the Park itself is no longer quired happen to cross two such that a local seismic activity took “a fun-filled experience for children).” hat was considered microregions with a high sedi- place in the Palk Bay region. W unfeasible for 150 years, A heap of rubbish, including plastic waste, is strewn mentation rate. the politicians of From Palk Strait and carelessly behind the refreshments stall near the entrance. Of the 61 cyclones between have succeeded in making the through Palk Bay and upto Ad- A wild spotted deer, which has strayed from the 1891 and 1995. 36 were severe UPA’s Cabinet Committee of am’s Bridge (see Madras neighbouring Guindy National Park, rummages through storms (wind speeds more than Economic Affairs approve. Yet, Musings, July 16th) the water is the waste for food. 89 kmph), 6 directly crossed the it was only three months ago shallow. After crossing the The first exhibit on the way inside the park is a solitary Palk Bay, 14 crossed the Naga- that the PMO noted: ‘The tsu- Bridge, the waters are deep Bengal Vulture. A container of water in one corner of the pattinam coast, 3 crossed the nami would have wrought upto Tuticorin. The shallow ar- cage and some pieces of meat are all there in the cage. A Gulf of Mannar. Based on the much more havoc had the eas, shown by satellite imagery, small trough, supposedly for the bird to take a dip and storm surge value (3-5 metres), Sethusamudram been in opera- are 2 – 3 metres deep. beat the heat, lies dry. Yet, an environment like this can the Meteorological Depart- tion.’ According to the authorities, adversely affect an otherwise healthy vulture. ment considers the coastal the average depth is about 6.6 A detailed study titled Pre- Then there is the enclosure for the pelicans, which stretch between Nagapattinam metres; to deepen this to 12m, and post-tsunami Sethusamu- had barely enough water in its pond for the birds to cover and Pamban a high risk zone. the sea bed has to be dredged to dram Shipping Channel Project their feet. This is the sad condition in the Park in spite of Sutapa Chandary etal (2004) a depth of 5.4 m. Dredging this by R. Ramesh gives a vivid ac- its claims that there is no water shortage, having as it does have named this coastal stretch depth for a 300 m width and count of how the December two borewells and a rainwater harvesting system put in and that of Bangladesh as the over the 20 km length of the 2004 tsunami waves entered place during the past two years. through the Palk Strait, spread- first leg will generate 32.5 mil- Water shortage during summers was a big problem for ing into the Palk Bay from the lion cubic metres of sand/clay l by the Park until three years ago, but not now, claim Park north and how another arm of etc. The second leg of 80 km is officials. the waves, circling Sri Lanka, K.V.S. KRISHNA deep (I do not know how deep) entered via Gulf of Mannar and and so there would not be any The daily water requirement of the Park’s visitors is clashed with the waves coming most vulnerable ones among dredging. The last leg of about 10,000 litres and that of the animals is 20,000 litres. This from the north at Adam’s the coastal regions of the Bay of 54 km in length needs dredg- is available, say the officials, but the scene today suggests Bridge for 20 minutes, 170 min- Bengal. It has been noted that ing, and will generate 52 mil- no such availability. utes after the start of the tsu- these storms tend to transport lion cubic metres of dredged In the enclosure for the Indian Monitor Lizard, two nami. This, obviously, would sediments into the Palk Bay material to be removed. What adult specimens are cramped in a small 3-foot-wide cage. have caused severe turbulence from the Nagapattinam coast is to be done with all this mate- The Lion-tailed Macaque, an endangered species of in the shallow waters of the Bay as well as from the Gulf of rial, 85 million cubic metres in monkey found in the , is in a 3-foot-wide near Adam’s Bridge. Mannar due to the geographi- extent? cage with little space for any movement. Next to it is The waves going towards cal configurations. Only 10% of dumping sites another small cage occupied by a pair of monkeys. East Africa at 170 minutes + 20 Ramesh states there were have been identified so far. The While the latter are kept as a pair and hence have some minutes, pulled seawater to- two tsunami effects in this area navigational channels of the company, the Macaque seemed frustrated and kept wards itself, causing a receding in the past. The first originated ports on the east coast of India fidgeting with a broken bucket in which its food was of sea level in the Gulf of in the Car Nicobar islands on have long been facing three served. Mannar, making the turbu- December 31, 1881, with an major problems: 1) Sedimenta- lence diminish and water from MW of 7.9, causing a tsunami tion, 2) Tropical cyclones and Park officials have excuses for it all. The Macaque has the Palk Bay and Gulf of in the Bay of Bengal. The sec- natural disturbances and 3) got poor vision...the two monkeys are lazy and do not Mannar go back southwards. ond was on August 27, 1883 Dumping of dredged material. move about much; they cannot be kept in a larger pen The Palk Bay is one of the when the Indonesian island of Surveying and analysing the with other monkeys because they get attacked... and since major sediment sinks of India. Krakatoa erupted and the knowledge based on the issues the Guindy National Park shares its boundary with the The sediment load causes a sea waves reached Nagapattinam of sedimentation and cyclonic Children’s Park, sometimes wild deer cross the weak fence depth reduction of 1cm/year. and Palk Bay/Pamban. disturbances in the Palk Bay is to forage for food, as they are lazy to hunt for food in the Marine and riverine sources The December 23, 1964 cy- the first requirement of this park. (Courtesy: The Word, the lab journal of the students contribute to this sediment. clone produced a storm surge project. Ramesh, discussing the of the Asian College of Journalism, Chennai) C.M. Ramasamy etal, (1998) of 6 metres. Six coaches of a Environmental Impact Assess- Arundhuti Mitra noted that maritime surveys train and its engine were ment and the Technical Feasi- conducted between 1960 and washed away, Pamban Bridge bility Report, both prepared by Rushing to dredge the canal economic and environmental 1986 had revealed a change of was partially destroyed and NEERI, states they have totally in the name of national devel- problems. contour to the tune of 6 metres Dhanushkodi, Rameswaram ignored the issues of cyclone opment without analysing shallowness in the Palk Strait, and other towns were badly af- and tsunamis. these issues could cause several (Concluded) GETTING OUR ACT TOGETHER DURING DISASTER

(Continued from page 1) mobilised, within minimum between civil society and the and create an exhaustive l Empowering local com- time. administration. disaster networking database. munities could lead to further should be the base for all disaster l l For long-term rehabili- problems, which will need Mitigation should look at l Disaster preparedness planning. reducing vulnerability — not tation, government should should be taken up by NGOs in careful handling. l Gender and children issues only physical, but also social examine whether the pro- pockets. l Encourage the develop- have to be a part of mainstream and economic. grammes are being formulated/ ment of a perspective within l Governmental policy preparedness and rehabilitation l In all disaster forums, police implemented. communities which gives a framework to specify the areas programmes. have an important role to play better chance for quicker l A system to establish NGO of NGO intervention. l Ground level disaster and should be an active part of credibility should be created. rehabilitation. preparedness training to be disaster training. Listing of NGOs in vulnerable On local interventions taken up. The seminar was also signi- areas will help as a tool for l A roadmap for disaster On NGOs l Local coping capacities ficant because it represented information networking. mitigation to be made available l NGOs should work in need to be increased; also IHC’s first major initiative to both government and NGOs. conjunction with the l Civil departments should scientific inputs at the local outside Delhi, and is projected l Scale of disaster to be government. identify the NGOs in their level. Local knowledge and to be the forerunner of several identified and standardised, l The State must act as the areas, classify them according resources do not need external such events, both in Chennai and response accordingly leader who has to interlink to their areas of specialisation funding, only the will. and in other metros. August 1-15, 2005 MADRAS MUSINGS 3

Rainwater harvesting: Is it all over? Meals: Y’day & today – I ainwater harvesting (RWH) has become so popular as a sump (for collection and use), an open well if available Ramong the residents of not only Chennai but also other and other recharge structures, such as wells and pits. In- o supplement what was metros, and even smaller cities and towns, that an article stead, the entire rooftop water has been channelised and T written in ‘Meals Ready’ highlighting its features and benefits may seem totally un- injected into just one structure. This may result in overflow (MM, June 16th), may I add the necessary! The actual fact is that there still is a large gap and will go unnoticed, since most residents do not observe following? between what is generally understood as ‘harvesting’ and these structures during rains. Krishna Iyer what it actually is. The third important aspect is the design of recharge wells Hotel in Triplicane, located in Rainwater was probably getting harvested even without and pits. Their depth needs to take into account the nature an unassuming building with human intervention till about 3000 B.C. Subsequently, it of the soil in the particular area, and be adequate enough smoke-washed walls and ricke- took place with human intervention till the beginning of the for the water injected into them to reach permeable strata ty chairs and tables, accom- 20th Century. People living in cities consider it to be either and get absorbed by the soil. For example, wells and pits in modated only about 25 persons an alternative or a new technology. Looks like the wheel will Anna Nagar, with clayey soil upto 20 ft., will have to be at a time. Badam halva and have to be reinvented for them. Even now, it is probably deeper than in Besant Nagar, where it is sandy right from Thair vadai were its specialities. getting more ‘correctly’ harvested in rural areas than in ur- five feet. The entire stock would have ban areas. Lastly, the fact that RWH structures need to be cleaned disappeared if you came to the Sources of freshwater are of two types – natural and tech- and desilted, as the case may be, has not been given the hotel half an hour after it nological. The former is the one that is obtained and sus- importance that it deserves. Over a period of time, the opened for the afternoon ses- tained either by rainwater or by melting of snow, the latter RWH structure, whether a filter or a RC well or a pit, will sion. The coffee served here is what is obtained through technology, like effluent treat- get filled with fine silt, which is brought by rains from was the best South Indian filter ment, desalination etc. rooftops and driveways and affect its performance. For this coffee you could get anywhere. Let us consider Chennai. In order to comply with the law reason, it should be identifiable and accessible within the The other hotel that enacted in 2002 that made RWH compulsory and the ordi- premises. This is not a fact in most houses and flat com- needed mentioning is the nance that followed in 2003, almost all the residents of plexes. Rayar Hotel off Kutcheri Road, Tamil Nadu implemented RWH in their respective Going on to the macro level, it is the responsibility of the Mylapore. You reached the low- premises – whether it be a house, flat complex, office or municipal authorities, namely the Corporation of Chennai, thatched, modest tiffin hall, factory. In the process, they failed to recognise a few vital to make sincere attempts to harvest the rainwater falling in after crossing an open drainage aspects about RWH. They are: public places, such as parks, playgrounds and roads. Noth- and putting up with the stench – Completeness, ing much has been done so far to carry this out. While of the overflowing sullage wa- – Apportioning of rainwater falling both on the rooftop residents have complied with the law, the State has failed to ter. But the idli with gotsu with and all around it, harvest the urban runoff. To make matters worse, propos- als are being drawn up and faithfully implemented to con- piping hot vadai as the accom- – Proper design of RWH structures (size and depth), and paniment was a delight. struct stormwater drains in more areas. Only in a handful Of more recent vintage was – Maintainability. of places has the urban runoff been led into parks and tem- Annalakshmi, on Anna Salai, Any RWH system is complete only if it harvests both ple tanks for groundwater recharge. Particular mention may established by a swamijee who rooftop as well as the rainwater that falls all around the built- be made of the efforts made in Tiruvanmiyur by an NGO has established Annalakshmis up area, wherever it is relevant. While everyone made ar- along with the municipal authorities to discharge runoff in Singapore, Malaysia and rangements for harvesting the rooftop water, the driveway through drains into the temple tank. Such activities will Australia. Those who attend runoff, particularly in multistoried residential and commer- have to be replicated in more places, not only in Chennai the tables are educated young cial complexes (where it is quite a large volume), has been but also in the peri-urban areas. ignored due to inconvenience or ignorance. men and women who do hon- Sekhar Raghavan orary services. The quality of Secondary, even while harvesting rooftop water, care has 4, 3rd Trust Link Street food is outstanding. not been taken to apportion it to different structures, such Mandavelipakkam, Chennai 600 028 The Saravana Bhavans in several locations in the city are a class by themselves. Kanara, which was part of the Yesterday’s meals – II Strange dishfellows ... for, hold your breath, Rs.3,200! Murugan Hotels from then , who During the same period my mis- abab mein haddi (bone in Madurai and -based made vegetarian restaurants ill 1944, a good, hygienic, erable pension increased from Kkabab) is considered an MTR, each with two or three popular with their ‘Udipi Tpalatable and delicious Rs.8000 to Rs.8500. At this rate, unfair nuisance, but bone in outlets, are welcome recent hotels’. It was also those from South Indian meal was served in ten years’ time, the cost of vegetable sandwich (MM, June additions to the South Indian South Kanara who established for six annas, at Ambika the battery will be more than 1st) is positively outrageous. vegetarian scene in Chennai. vegetarian hotels with lodging Lodge, Lingi Chetty Street, my pension. Let’s face it, no After all, the 1857 war was Masaladosai actually made facilities, like Dasaprakash and Ambi’s Cafe, Broadway, and matter how daintily P. Chidam- sparked off because a sepoy pro- its entry into Madras in the early Woodlands. Venkatramaiyer Hotel, Deva- baram explains it, the economy tested against pig fat being used 1930s, when it was introduced Amongst the sweets listed in raj Mudali Street, G.T. sucks. Another disturbing for lubrication of the rifles. The by the Modern Cafe on Broad- the article, the significant omis- factor of the economy is that Modern Cafe next to Rama- only other such edible paradox way. A dosai at 4 annas (25 sions were badam halva, wheat the cost of services has gone krishna Lunch Home served as this vegetable bone sandwich paise) each was large and filling halva and jilebi. through the roof. Servant maids crisp, delicions Masaladosai for is the cry of one particular rail- enough to substitute for a full are asking for Rs.1,500 p.m. M.G. Balasubramanian two annas till 1944. Till as late way hawker on the Brindavan gargantuan meal. Modern as 1960, Hotel Dasaprakash from people like me. (RETD). Express for years and years. He Cafe’s neighbour was Rama- IAS Mangala Ganesh, II Floor served superb special meals for used to shout “Vegetable Ham C.G. Prasad krishna Lunch Home which 15, IV Seaward Road Rs. 1.50. A butter masaladosai Burger”. He was a moron haw- 9. C.S. Mudali Street had its own loyal patrons. Valmiki Nagar was priced at Rs. 1.50. The ser- king this oxymoron. Kondithope, Chennai 600 079. It was people from South Thiruvanmiyur, Chennai 600 041. vice was personalised and * * * highly hygienic. The aroma of READABILITY PLEASE a good coffee of those days is ... & stranger pricing sadly absent today. Arya Bha- eader Subramaniam’s Dear Readers, OUR ADDRESSES... R statement that engineers As letters from readers increase, van on Govindappan Naiken we are receiving more and more hand- For matters regarding subscriptions, donations, non-receipt of re- are paid only about Rs. 4,000 a Street was the rendezvous of written letters, many of them in a hand ceipts etc.: Chennai Heritage, 260-A, TTK Road, Chennai 600 018. month (MM, June 1st) was the elite in the afternoon for a 4 so small and illegible or large and For non-receipt of copies, change of address, and all other annas Badam Halva, one anna news to me. I was under the im- scrawled as to be unreadable. Often circulation matters: MADRAS MUSINGS, C/o Lokavani Hall-Mark Onion Vadai and two annas pression that engineers are this leads to our discarding a letter, par- Press Pvt. Ltd., 122, Greames Road, Chennai 600 006. ‘degree’ coffee. The list is end- picked by the software MNCs ticularly if some part of it is unreadable. On editorial matters: The Editor, MADRAS MUSINGS, and get a fat pay packet plus a If you wish us to consider your letter less. for publication, please type it with C/o Lokavani Hall-Mark Press Pvt. Ltd., 122, Greames Road, vial of nitrous oxide to go enough space between lines or write it Chennai 600 006. The point to note is the laughing all the way to the affordability for even an ordi- using a medium hand, clearly dotting No personal visits or telephone calls, please. Letters received will bank. the ‘i-s’ and crossing the ‘t-s’. be sent from these addresses every couple of days to the persons nary wage-earner. That is not Forget engineers, pensioners Many readers also try to fill every concerned and you will get an answer from them to your queries the case today. like me are in the doldrums on square centimetre of a postcard space, reasonably quickly. Strange as it may seem, if you adopt the ‘snail account of the crash in real in- making reading or editing impossible. mail’ approach, we will be able to help you faster and disappoint D.V. Subramanian comes. In May 2000, I bought a Please help us to consider your you less. car battery for Rs.2200. When letters more favourably by making them 6, Sriram Colony more legible for us. THE EDITOR Theosophical Society it conked out after five years, I Adyar, Chennai 600 020. bought a replica in May 2005 THE EDITOR 4 MADRAS MUSINGS August 1-15, 2005 August 1-15, 2005 MADRAS MUSINGS 5

Rajam’s greeting is usually a sion of the Met- The Nilgiri Railway Company The progress of construction l No. 41 Nadu Street mischievous smile and a joke af- tupalayam bran- was formed in 1885 with a capi- is tabulated below: ter which he will lead you to one ch to Nilgiri pla- tal of Rs. 2.5 million and the pro- Section Opened Km of the inner rooms at the rear of teau was first posal for a rack line was dropped the house. Most of the furniture mooted in 1875. in favour of an adhesion line, M’palayam – C’noor 15.06.1899 27.34 in the house, made in a variety of It has now as- similar to the Darjeeling railway C’noor – Fernhill 15.09.1908 17.48 The century-old home styles, ranging from the Oriental sumed a more on a gradient of 1 in 30. How- Fernhill – 15.10.1908 1.79 to Art Nouveau, have been definite charac- ever, very soon, the rack princi- Total 46.61 fashioned by Rajam himself. ter, a Company ple came to be favoured and, in Rajam will recline on an easy having been 1886, a contract was entered into The accounts of Nilgiri Rail- of musicians & artists chair and then begin to talk. The started in Madras between the Government and way section were separately house always has a visitor or two to float the un- the new company. In 1889, the maintained form 1908 to 1938. (Continued from dered to be a genius on the veena, and the walls resound with dertaking. It will requisite capital was raised in The gross earning was Rs. 0.37 last fortnight) with many firsts to his credit in One of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway’s early engines, X37395, retrofitted in 2003 with an oil million in 1908, peaked at over a sparkling conversation, laughter firing engine. (Courtesy: SOUTHERN RAILWAY) probably be on London and, in August 1891, that field. million in 1922-23 and then ta- ajam received his commi- and, most importantly, music In 1951, Rajam moved with throughout the day. Occasion- pered to Rs. 0.63 million. Till R ssion from the Music Aca- 1929-30, the Nilgiri Railway was demy even while he was studying his family to Pallavaram, where ally a student will drop by for a the open countryside (as it was class and when Rajam teaches, a profit-making system, the per- at the Government School of centage of net earning hovering Arts. It was to paint the portraits then) enabled him to breathe you are amazed at the steadiness The romance of a freely and lead the artistic life he of the voice, strengthened as it is around 2 points. Nevertheless, of the Carnatic Trinity. He the system was in sound financial received Rs. 200 for his efforts coveted. He would go frequently by a lifetime of singing. If the to Mahabalipuram on photogra- conversation veers to Rajam’s condition for the first thirty years and, today, they constitute the of its operation. ‘official portraits’ of the trio. phic expeditions and return paintings then he will lead you to inspired to do many more paint- the front of the house where the historic railway The principal contract of SIR Rajam recalls with consider- ings and line drawings. His sunlight streams in. This is Mrs. was terminated on March 31, able pride the efforts he took to 1944 and was taken over by the study available material on the mother passed away in 1956, but Rajam’s boudoir. Despite just re- covering from a long illness, she . With effect Trinity before executing the A painting by Rajam (inset). father Sundaram Iyer lived on till eggy Woodford writing in ladder or cog system) thus: metre-gauge, will have compara- Lord wenlock, the then Gover- from April 14, 1951, SIR and commission. In the portrait of 1970 at No. 41 Nadu Street. always has a pleasant word for PRise of the Raj says, “The Brit- “Mr. N. Riggenbach obtained a tively easy gradients from Mettu- nor of Madras Presidency, cut Nilgiri Railway formed a part of Muttuswami Dikshitar in par- ond artiste, after D.K. Pattam- what was prevalent then. His With his passing, the question of visitors. Rajam will carefully ish who toiled up through the patent in 1863 in France for a palayam to Kallar at the foot of the first sod. the newly constituted Southern ticular, Rajam had to exercise mal, to have performed at its father, Sundaram Iyer, who was what was to be done with the untie bundles of paintings and dense malarial jungle to Ootaca- system of mountain railways on the Nilgiri Hills, 5½ miles, and railway. Though there is no sepa- considerable imagination, as inaugural function. Seeing his used to the feminine and delicate house came up. Not wanting his display them for you to see. The original intention to have mund in the nineteenth century the principle of the Ladder Rail. from thence up to Coonoor rate entity as Nilgiri Railway since hardly any records were available abilities during a subsequent strokes of the Dhanam family family home to pass into the Rajam has created letter pads a direct on the must have found the journey no However, till 1868 no one came Ghat, 6½ miles, the gradients 1951, the hill line maintains its on the composer’s physical attri- radio play, the authorities offered and the Karaikkudi style, took hands of strangers, Rajam acquir- and notebooks with the themes Riggenbach system was, how- joke. If you were young and vig- forward to finance the scheme. will be very heavy. The produc- individuality and continues to be butes. By 1943, two more por- him a permanent job, which he time to appreciate the nuances of ed the property after a settlement of famous Carnatic compositions ever, dropped in favour of a orous, you rode. If you were In 1868, in U.S.A., upon Mount tion of tea, coffee, and cinchona referred as ‘Nilgiri Railway’. traits were added to the Aca- gladly accepted, for by then he the bold masculine style that with his siblings and moved in in as the mastheads and these are somewhat longer and more sub- older, or young and lazy, you Washington near Boston, a simi- is still increasing on the Nilgiri The ruling gradient is 1 in 40 demy’s composers’ gallery, name- was married and had a growing Balachander displayed. There 1974. And that is where he lives very popular and bought by many stantial line using the ABT type could go by bullock-cart or be lar railway with an ascent of 33% Hills, and it is anticipated that on the section between Mettu- ly those of Purandara Dasa and family to support. Rajan served were bitter arguments on the till today. Brother Balachander from his house. They make ideal of rack rail. The Rigi system uses carried in a palanquin.” Accord- was started. Three engineers, the traffic which will seek the palayam (330 m) and Kallar, 1 in Swati Tirunal. The latter was AIR till 1979, when he retired. subject between father and son moved to Sullivan’s Gardens, gifts for any festive occasion. a ladder type or central rail with ing to an early guidebook of the thereon, Mr. Riggenbach (Me- line will at once give a fair return. 12.28 from Kallar to Coonoor, unveiled in the Senate House by During his tenure there, Rajam until Balachander managed to where he lived till his death. His Till very recently, Rajam fol- the toothed wheel engaging the Nilgiris, the bullock-carts aver- chanical), Mr. Naeff and Traffic will be higher". and 1 in 23 from Coonoor to Setu Parvati Bai, the junior brought to light several composi- demonstrate during a radio house, though extensively remo- lowed a very hectic social sched- runs of the ladder, the ABT sys- aged 4½-5 miles an hour, the Mr. Zschokke (both Civil Engi- In 1882, Riggenbach came to Udagamandalam (2200 m). Maharani of Travancore. Rajam tions of Koteeswara Iyer, a concert that he could play the delled by his son, has a room ule, going out often to attend tem has two adjacent rails in the horses did 5-6, but they tired neers) associated to establish the Nilgiris and started preparing There are 208 curves on the recollects receiving Rs. 90 for composer known for his songs in Dhanam style equally well! devoted to his collection of music programmes and func- centre of the track with the teeth more quickly. The bullock-cart such a railroad on Rigi. From detailed estimates for a rack rail- section, 250 bridges (32 major this portrait. the 72 melakarta (or parent) ragas Sundaram Iyer’s admiration for music instruments, all of which tions. During the December sea- on the top out of step with each traveller’s luggage was put in the Luzerne Govt. they obtained a way which, it was calculated, ones and 15 road over/under Rajam’s winsome personality of Carnatic music. In addition, his younger son now knew no are preserved with loving care. son, he was a regular at the Music other. By then, however, the fi- wagon, boards were laid across bridges), and 16 tunnels between and his ability to make friends he set to music and arranged for bounds and harmony was The front door to No. 41 is Academy’s morning confer- nancial health of the railway the valises, and bedding was Kallar and Udagamandalam, all with the most difficult of people, the performance of the Truppu- restored at No. 41. rarely locked, except perhaps at ences, where his comments company had deteriorated and placed on the top. Reclining re- in excellent condition. The long- of whom plenty existed in Carna- gazh, Nandam Charitiram and In 1948, Balachander began night. A small nameplate dis- during the lectures would be lis- construction work came to a Rama Natakam over the radio. his second innings in films, with plays Rajam’s name in art deco tened to with great respect. He gally thereon, “he was towed l by R.R. Bhandari standstill. est is nearly 150 metres. tic music circle in those days, The rack section commences Meanwhile, younger brother style. Rajam and his family live eschewed all politics and per- away, with stops fro refreshment (excerpted from his book Southern Railway – made him close even to diehard A new company of the same from km 7/8-9 and ends at km Balachander had not been idle. on the first floor, the ground floor sonal biases and this, combined and rest at the dak bungalows. critics such as R. Rangaramanuja l by A Saga of 150 glorious years 1852-2003, name was formed in February 26/8-9. The rack rails consist of He too had joined AIR at the age being rented out. A narrow with his years of experience in Or he could refresh himself hav- Iyengar, an ardent devotee of Courtesy: Southern Railway). 1896 and it set about completing two toothed steel bars laid in a of 15 and performed on a variety SRIRAM V. wooden staircase leads you up- music, made his interventions ing taken the precaution of see- Veena Dhanammal. In the the line. Another agreement was double row 44 mm apart and 64 of instruments. However, by stairs. A cloth bag attached to a during the conference singularly ing to it.” As the guidebook 1940s, Iyengar desired to have a concluded between the Com- mm above the running rails so 1945, No. 41 Nadu Street was a double role in the film Idu long cord hangs from the first valuable. However, with a gen- strongly recommends, the sides marble statue of Veena Dhanam- pany and the Indian Govern- that the tooth of one is directly getting used to the strains of yet Nijama. That same year, he floor down the stairwell. This is eral decline in health with old of the bullock-cart were fitted concession in 1869. A company would cost only £ 132,000. mal made for his daily worship, . ment, whereby all Government opposite the gap of the other, another instrument. For Bala- turned director, wielding the the bag into which letters are age, Rajam has stopped attend- with pockets of coarse cloth into was formed with a capital of Morant assisted him in this work. This was, however, likely to land required for the line was ensuring that the engine pinions chander had identified himself megaphone for the film En placed by the postman and milk ing the conference and the Aca- which could be “stowed the £ 50,000 and a railway line of A local Company under the prove too expensive and, finally, granted free and the Govern- do not work off the racks when completely with the veena and Kanavur in which he also acted sachets by the milkman. I as- demy is poorer for his absence. wine, the beer, the brandy and 3.26 miles with average ascent of name “The Nilgiri Rigi Railway Rajam made him a plaster of ment gave a guarantee of three negotiating curves. This gave it had begun to master it with his as the hero. He acted in a num- sumes this unique labour-saving Rajam, for his part, has no regrets the kettle.” 1:4 was constructed by 1871-72.” Company Ltd.” was formed and Paris figure of the Grand Old per cent on the capital during the the common nomenclature of al- usual manic energy. He gave up ber of films between 1951 and device is drawn up periodically that many so-called awards and According to Mollie Panter Major Dowden had published the Government gave it some Lady that survives to this date at construction period. The Madras ternating biting teeth (ABT, also his career at AIR, concentrated 1953. In 1951, he directed the and its contents emptied. A honours in the music world have Downes in Ooty Preserved, “The a letter from the Rigi Railway encouragement and concessions the home of her granddaughter Railway operated it under an the family name of the originator on the veena and soon tamed it. film Kaidhi for Jupiter Pictures sketch on a wooden board on the passed him by. His work gives Victorians, enchanted with their Company that they could assist for the acquisition of necessary T. Muktha. agreement with the Govern- of ABT System). The rack bars His style, however, was remark- and, as in earlier films, composed top landing, done by Rajam’s him the greatest satisfaction and discovery, developed Ooty, built any such project in India. land and in laying a railway line Rajam was no stranger to All ment. are of two standard lengths, i.e., India Radio, for he was the sec- ably different as compared to the music as well. In 1954, he granddaughter, indicates the that is what he cares most little gabled cottages... land, The most ardent supporter of from Mettupalayam to Kallar. directed Anda Naal starring place where visitors are to leave passionately about. turreted houses... From the a rack railway for the Nilgiris was The Company, however, The Government purchased full bars with 26 teeth of length Sivaji Ganesan for AVM, a film their footwear. There is no During the annual Mylapore 1820s onwards, Madras families Captain (later Major) J.L.L. requested that the government the line in January 1903, for Rs. 3.12 m and half bars with 13 that had no songs or dance calling bell and Rajam has long Music Heritage Walk, a stop at built their summer houses, and Morant, R.E., District Engineer guarantee a four per cent on an 3.5 million, although the capital teeth of length 1.56 m. The pitch sequences. By 1960, he had dispensed with telephone as he No. 41 is a must and Rajam by the 1870s the Governor of of the Nilgiri District who, from outlay of £ 150,000 for 15 to 20 outlay upto that time was of the of rack teeth is 120 mm. launched his own company, SB considers it a nuisance. The first makes it a point to come down Madras and his whole secretariat 1875, wrote several articles on years. Government was not order of Rs. 4.9 million. The Ma- The racks are laid at a con- Creations, which made crime room that you step into is the and speak to the participants. moved up to Ooty for the hot the system. prepared to comply. Finally, an dras Railway Company was asked stant distance of 455 mm from thrillers. All this was done even large hall that Rajam’s father Indeed, it was he who initiated weather.” In 1877, Morant gave a de- agreement was reached between to manage this railway line on the inner rails (452 mm in the behalf of the Government. Sub- as he actively pursued his career commissioned at the behest of the Mylapore Heritage Walk by Ooty, in the Nilgiris, the Blue tailed analysis under the title the Government of Madras and case of 25 mm thick rack bars) sequently the management was as a top ranking veena artiste. He Govindasami Pillai and Dakshi- pointing out all the landmarks to Mountains, was becoming a fa- ‘Mountain Railway for the Nilgiri the Company as a result of which and are screwed by bolting to cast entrusted with South Indian was also well-known for his habit namurthy Pillai. Rajam’s work- this writer one rainy afternoon. vourite hill station by the 1870s. Hills’. The estimate for the rack- a limited guarantee was promised. iron chairs fixed to the sleepers of fighting against whatever he bench is aligned against one wall. His pet subject is the heritage Better transport became essen- rail line from Mettupalayam to The prospective investors of Railway on 31st December 1907 with fang bolts. felt was an untruth in the field of The centre is occupied by a large and glory of Mylapore. In many tial. And a railway was thought Coonoor was £ 197,237 (Rigi sys- England were, however, not sat- at the time of the expiry of Ma- The rack bars were originally Carnatic music and he involved dining table behind which is a ways, he and No. 41 are true of. tem) and £ 302,452 (Fell system) isfied with the nature of the Gov- dras Railway’s contract. The line imported from England. This im- was extended to Ootacamund port continued till 1956-57. himself in controversy after cooking range marking out the representatives of the greatness Major T.F. Dowden, R.E., which J.B. Fell had devised with ernment guarantee or the suffi- controversy till his death in 1990. kitchen area. You can normally of an area that should be decla- a centre rail and horizontal grip- ciency of the estimates and, thus, from Coonoor in 1908 on the Thereafter, mild steel rack bars published the first article on the same metre gauge over a distance were obtained from the Railway While he made many enemies in find Rajam busy at work at his red a heritage district and which Rigi Railway on the Ladder Sys- ping wheels. This estimate in- the necessary capital for the pro- the process, none could deny desk, sketching or painting with continues to play a leading role cluded cost of rolling stock also. posed Company was not forth- of 11¾ miles at a cost of Rs. 2.44 Engineering Workshop, Arak- tem in 1874, mainly translating million. The terminal station, konam. that he was brilliant in whatever pencil or brush held with fingers in fostering the fine arts in this the descriptions of Prof. J.H. Kro- The Administrative Report of coming. Being unable to raise the field of activity he involved that are amazingly steady for his city. for 1880-81 capital, the company was liqui- Ootacamund, is now called Uda- (To be concluded nauer. He described the history gamandalam. Veenai Balachander. himself. He was, and is, consi- age. (Concluded) of rack railway (also known as stated, “The proposal for exten- dated. next fortnight) 6 MADRAS MUSINGS August 1-15, 2005 Making ‘life hell’

Till August 15: Art exhibition by Sivabalan. (At Ashvita Art Ob- for their wives jects & Artifacts.) August 28-September 4: The cel- ebration of Onam festival. The Kerala section will be decorated

(Current Affairs questions are ife has become hell, say 40 per cent of the l Men seem to take to the drinking habit as a with pookolam and will come from the period July 1st to 15th. Lsample, in a study undertaken by an NGO, way of normal life, just as a person has his alive with the rhythm of folk per- Questions 11 to 20 pertain to Nandini Voice for the Deprived, which provides coffee every morning. They do not seem to formances. (At DakshinaChitra.) Tamil Nadu and Chennai.) August 4-7: Five Elements – films by support for lower income groups in the city as think that drinking is unethical or immoral. V.Viswanadhan from Kerala, who well as elsewhere in Tamil Nadu. The study re- 1. Which former U.S. Secretary of l Since the Government itself is running the has lived and worked in Paris veals that 70 per cent of the husbands of the State and Nobel Laureate regret- liquor shops, the habit of drinking has re- since 1968. The painter’s first women sampled drank moderately to heavily ted having made certain remarks ceived some level of respectability, as the film, Sable (Earth) (1976-1982) and that 60% of the husbands ill-treated their starts the cycle he devotes to the against Indira Gandhi in 1971? drinkers are no longer considered law-break- wives. The study revealed: five elements. (At Top Storey, 2. Who are the Wimbledon singles ers. 6.30 p.m.) champions this year? Subject Estimates August 8-20: Paris: Mysteries, My- l In social functions, drinking has gradually be- 3. Name NASA’s spacecraft that come an essential part. Not serving drinks, thologies and Memories, an exhibi- The extent of drinking tion by Vishwajyoti Ghosh, a impacted with Comet Tempel 1 amongst husbands, whether at marriages or funerals, is consid- young graphic artist living and on July 4th. sometimes heavily and ered a sign of the host’s economic incapabil- working in Delhi. (At the Alli- 4. Which city is to host the 2012 sometimes moderately 70% ity. ance Francaise). August 17 & 18: Anita Ratnam in Summer Olympic Games? l Women have also come to accept drinking How many days Seven Graces. A solo dance per- 5. How did England’s Vikram husbands drink in a week? Saturdays, habits amongst men as a matter of normal formance in collaboration with Solanki enter the record books re- Sundays 70% course and do not seem to object if the level Hari Krishnan of inDANCE, cently? Other days of drinking is within limits. Canada. (At Amethyst, 7 p.m.) 30% August 19: Geetha Chandran in So 6. With what honour was Prime l The children in the family, particularly the Many Journeys, a dance-theatre Minister, Manmohan Singh Wives being beaten and 60% boys, who constantly view their father’s ac- performance with members of honoured by a college in Oxford abused by drunk husbands tivities, also take to drinking at a very young Natya Vriksha (New Delhi). (At University? during evening and age. Mothers and sisters feel concerned, but Sri Krishna Gana Sabha, 7 p.m.) 7. Who have been chosen for the night hours when they are helpless. Aug 18-28: Magic Lantern presents National Best Actor and Best Ac- come home after drinking two classics of American litera- l Womenfolk find it extremely difficult to rec- tress awards? ture in one evening: Plath’s The Women’s view of their 40% oncile themselves to such conditions and do Bell Jar and Albee’s The Zoo Story. 8. What project of National im- married life – life their level best to keep the family going and The Bell Jar chronicles the crack- portance, conceived as early as has become hell, because educate the children. Most of them depend up of Esther Greenwood, brilliant 1860 by Commander A.D. Taylor of drunken husbands heavily upon the noon meal scheme operated and successful, but slowly going of the Indian Marines, will be a by the Government for the schoolgoing chil- under – may be for the last time. reality soon? Women willing to discard 5% dren. They deny themselves all comforts for The Zoo Story is about how Jerry, their husbands, if possible the sake of the children and the family. a man who is consumed with lone- 9. What does the latest Cabinet liness starts up a conversation Women already discarded 20% amendment as regards the l Many women say they approach various so- with another man Peter on a ‘Tiranga’ say? by their husbands, who ran cial service organisations and generous indi- bench in Central Park and even- away, due to drinking habit 10. To what coveted global list viduals for financial support for the education tually forces him to participate in and consequent development an act of violence. (At Top have Gudiyattam and Vedic of their children, to buy their uniforms, note- of bad habits books etc. Women working as domestic serv- Storey.) Chanting been added? Till August 13: A Children’s Mela: Women thinking that the 90% ants say that their employers generally give The mela offers a wide variety of * * * presence of even drunken some money to buy books and uniforms. enthralling activities such as Many women say that the responsibility for 11. Name the Chief Secretary of husband is necessary due bullockcart rides, magic shows, the education and healthcare of the children folk performances, exhibitions, Tamil Nadu. to social and security reasons is almost entirely borne by them and the hus- street plays, puppet shows and 12. ‘A Century of Trust’ organised Husbands visiting the family 30% bands do not even accompany them when many more. (At Dakshina- recently at the Chennai Trade irregularly they go to any institution or individual to seek Chitra.) Centre was a multimedia exhibi- financial support for the education of their Till August 13: Women@rt. A group Women themselves taking Nil of 15 Chennai-based women tion on which famous industrial to drinking habits children. family? artists, painters and sculptors Wives looking after the 30% The study concludes that as liquor sales have come together to exhibit for the 13. Who has now bought over the first time in a curated show. (At economy of the family become a major source of revenue for the Gov- 37,000 ground land and buildings ernment and as Government is unlikely to give Forum Art Gallery.) of Binny’s in George Town? and welfare of the children almost entirely, without up this income, whatever may be the adverse World Heritage 14. Name one of the founders of much of support from their consequences to the social and economic condi- The Hindu who also founded husbands tions of the poor families, suffering of the women status for NMR Swadesamitran. in the lower income group due to drinking habit The study concluded: amongst husbands will continue, perhaps even (Continued from page 1) 15. Name the Madurai native who with greater intensity in the days to come. 1899. It was extended to Ooty has become India’s latest Grand- l The drinking habit amongst men has taken in 1908. master in chess. deep root in families in the lower income A few isolated social activists fighting against The NMR is the only railway group. the drinking habit are unlikely to make any head- 16. What is going to be veteran system in the world using this way when the Government itself is the chief mar- director K. Balachander’s 101st l The men earn in the range of Rs. 2,000 to Rs. technology of Alternate Biting keter of its liquor. film? 3,000 per month, but around 15-20 per cent Teeth (ABT) that the rack and 17. Another one on films. Which of the earnings go towards purchase of liq- Nandini Voice for the Deprived is involved in pinion system ensures. A loco- film won the coveted National uor, both for themselves and their friends. providing support of lower income group families motive engine at the rear Award for Best Tamil Film re- and provides counselling as well as monetary sup- pushes the rakes while climbing l Because of the drinking habit and the rising cently? cost of liquor, the economy of the poor family port to the extent of its capability, particularly for and holds the train firmly while the education of children and for self-improve- descending. The NMR has the 18. Name the Chief Electoral Of- is badly affected. Some men involve them- ment . The NGO runs free computer schools for only rack rails in the country, ficer of Tamil Nadu. selves in corrupt practices to make more money, whenever possible, or are the most the benefit of boys and girls in lower income group specifically designed for rough 19. If it’s ‘Puratchi Thalaivar’ for vociferous in demanding increases in wages. in Perungudi, Korattur and Thiruvottiyur in and hilly terrain, giving the train MGR, what is it for Vijayakanth? Those men who cannot earn extra money in Chennai and in Perambalur, Dindigal, Madurai extra control for safety pur- 20. Where would one come across such ways harass the women, demanding and Nagercoil. poses. The NMR passes through attractions like Elk Falls, Kodanad money from them. Many resort to borrowing At any given time, around 180 students un- 208 curves, 16 tunnels and 250 Viewpoint and Kanneri Mukku? at exorbitant interest, which further erodes dergo a six-month free computer course and the bridges during its 46 km, 41/ their income. NGO’s placement service helps them thereafter. 2 (Answers on page 8) hour journey. August 1-15, 2005 MADRAS MUSINGS 7

The cousin who came Subscriptions and contributions l As readers are already aware — and hundreds have responded positively — we have no other alternative but to price Madras Musings. for breakfast From April 16th (Volume XIV, No.1), Madras Musings has been priced at Rs.5 a copy, ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION: Rs.100/-. Please make out thought he was my Ramesh looked a bit surprised. I were curious to see if Ramesh your cheque only to ‘Chennai Heritage’ and send it, together with the I husband’s cousin and Raman felt proud that he had noticed would turn up again. And sure COUPON BELOW, to CHENNAI HERITAGE, 260-A, TTK ROAD, CHENNAI 600 018 or C/O LOKAVANI-HALL MARK PRESS PVT. LTD., Thatha, my father-in-law, that Thatha and I were already enough he did just in time for 122, GREAMES ROAD, CHENNAI 600 006. thought he was mine! After all, great friends. After breakfast, breakfast. “Ah, there you are,” An ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION of just Rs.100 covers only a part of during first few days of getting Ramesh said, “How much do I said Thatha, and asked him our costs. Corporate support and YOUR support will continue to be married, I met so many of my pay?” Thatha and I laughed. about himself and what had essential for Chennai Heritage and Madras Musings to play a greater husband’s cousins. Cousins who “Don’t worry, cousin,” I said, made him drop in for breakfast. role in creating awareness about the city, its heritage and its environ- lived next door, cousins who “this time it’s on the house”. He Ramesh said he was waiting for ment. We therefore look forward to your sending us your contribu- lived opposite, cousins who thanked me, said ‘Bye’ and left. a vacancy in the Engineering tions IN ADDITION TO your subscriptions. lived two houses away, cousins A few minutes later Thatha College hostel and in the If in the coming year Chennai Heritage receives repeated support from those of you who have already made contributions, and if many who lived down the street – said, “Nice boy Ramesh, who is meantime he had rented a more supporters join the bandwagon, we will not only be able to keep phew – it was truly mind- he?” It was my turn to look room a few houses from ours. Madras Musings going, but also be able to continue awareness-build- boggling. I just couldn’t figure surprised. “Isn’t he one of your He had to make his own ar- ing exercises on on-going projects as well as undertake one or two out who was who. nephews?” I asked. “No,” he rangements for food. “Seeing more such exercises. Every morning Raman said, “I thought he was your the board ‘Mylapore Lodge’, I Therefore, please keep your contributions coming IN ADDITION TO Thatha went for a walk after cousin. After all, you were serv- came in hoping that this lodg- YOUR SUBSCRIPTIONS. If, say, you send in a cheque for Rs.500, we his coffee. I would have break- ing him breakfast.” “Yes,” I said ing house served food too.” will treat Rs.100 of it towards subscription to Madras Musings for 2004- 5 and the remaining Rs.400 as contribution towards the causes Chennai fast ready when he returned. perplexed, “But he came in Thatha burst out laughing. Heritage espouses. We always had breakfast to- asking if he could have some “Didn’t you see the ‘Theo- We look forward to all readers of Madras Musings, and those gether – and he would tell me breakfast and so I assumed that sophical Society’ board on the newcomers who want to receive copies, sending in their subscrip- stories about the family. other gate post?” he asked. tions. We are indeed sorry we can no longer remain a free mailer. One morning, after Thatha “This is the Mylapore Lodge, or — The Editor left for his walk as usual, a l It happened to me Branch, of the Theosophical youth walked in hesitantly and by Society which has its Head- CHENNAI HERITAGE asked, “Can I have some break- PADMINI VISWANATHAN quarters in Adyar.” fast?” “Certainly, I’ve just made Ramesh gave a sheepish grin 260-A T.T.K. ROAD, ALWARPET, CHENNAI 600 018. a fresh batch of idlis,” I said and and looked apologetic. “Uncle, / served him some. While he was he must be one of the many I’m so sorry,” he said, “It’s just I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) eating, we had a chat. He was cousins who lived around us.” that I was dying for some I have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it here- after. Ramesh and he was doing his II Both of us burst out laughing. I breakfast, saw the Mylapore l I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 (Rupees year Chemical Engineering in had not only let a total stranger Lodge sign and walked straight One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, MADRAS, as sub- Guindy. I stowed this piece of into the house, but I had even in”. Thatha patted him on his scription to Madras Musings for the year 2004-05. information in my mind. I fig- given him breakfast! But who back, “Don’t feel bad, my son. l As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment and a ured this was the best way to was he and why did he come to This lodge is still open to you for better city that Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai Heritage an get to know each of my hus- our house demanding breakfast.” And that is how my additional Rs ...... (Rupees band’s cousins. breakfast? It was a total mystery mysterious breakfast cousin ...... ) Thatha returned from his to all of us. That day the whole came home every morning for Please keep/put me on your mailing list. walk, wished Ramesh and sat family had a good time teasing breakfast till he got hostel down at the dining table. “I’m me about my mysterious accommodation. Name : ...... famished,” he said. I brought ‘breakfast cousin’. Editor’s Note: We wel- Address: ...... two more plates and the rest of Thatha decided not to go come such pieces if there is a ...... the idlis and we started to eat. for a walk the next day. We heritage twist to the tale. Note: Overseas postage Rs. 550/year extra. Cheques for overseas post- age alone payable to M/s. Lokavani Hall-Mark Press Pvt. Ltd.. All other Songbirds in my cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. Senate House Conservation Fund l The Senate House Restoration and Management Trust appeals to all Chromepet garden alumni of the University of Madras and heritage lovers everywhere to contribute to the Senate House Conservation Fund which the Trust is he garden in Ancestral observed them for quite some med into the chorus. This bird managing for the purpose of restoring Senate House to its old glory T home in Chromepet is set time enjoying their gentle was coloured a beautiful fawn- by December 2005 and maintaining it thereafter in the same condi- like a sylvan green cameo chirping and co-operative brown above, with pinkish tion. Cheques should be made out to the Senate House Conservation amidst a sea of unfriendly, im- behaviour with the Three- white below, and had a black Account and sent to the Registrar, University of Madras, Chennai 600 personal concrete which the striped Palm Squirrels also bar on its tail. Its scientific name 005. Contributions are eligible for benefits under Section 80-G of the suburb is rapidly becoming. The feeding alongside them. is Dendrocitta vagabunda. Income Tax Act. home is known as ‘Gina’, after a Once this mixed hunting I later observed a pair of Dear Registrar, young woman who was called party had moved on, I carefully these birds usually found sulk- I am pleased to enclose a cheque for Rs...... Christina ‘Gina’ Jenkrins. She listened and heard the monoto- ing in the arboreal tree-tops of as my contribution to the restoration and maintenance of was a close friend and associate the garden – in the quiet still- Senate House. Kindly acknowledge receipt. of my grandfather Santhana- ness of mid-afernoon. Orni- Name: ...... krishna Naidu, who passed l Nature musings thologists, due to certain obvi- away in 1979, after holding the ous anatomical similarities, clas- Address: ...... post of Deputy Director of Pub- by sify the Tree Pie along with the lic Instruction in the erstwhile K. KARUNANIDHI Crow family (Corvideae)...... Madras Presidency. Still later, I observed a couple ...... Here, in this cool garden, I of wild crows harassing the strolled out one fine morning, nous, repetitive call of the Koel Tree-pies until they flew from I am an alumnus/alumna/heritage lover and wish the project all to resume my childhood hobby – ‘Kooo-uuu’, ‘Kooo-uuu’, re- the garden. success. My college was ...... of bird-watching, after a long sounding in the garden. Its call As my day’s leisurely bird- Date: ...... Signature: ...... break of 23 years, caused by appeared to emerge from the watching came to a close, the workaday responsibility. top of the Banganapallee orange tropical sun set in a blaze ground-dwelling crenuscular when I was struggling with the The first bird I saw almost mango tree in the southwest of molten red glory. Just then, bird is a brownish fawn above, intricacies of the New Maths immediately. It was the com- corner of the garden. As I from the calm twilight-zone, a and has a red abdomen below, during my Plus 2 days in 1982. I mon or 'White-browed' Babbler stealthily moved closer, I could haunting two-tone whistle with a circular blue flash on its couldn’t help thinking that this (Turdoies spp) and it was forag- spot its eyes – each sharp red emerged from the green depths wings. That golden evening, a 10-ground patch of green was ing amidst leaf-litters on the and pin-pointed with a black of the vegetation. I could solitary Pitta was shyly hopping still playing host to a startling ground in a small group of six or iris – glittering from a glisten- recognise, from long years of lis- along the ground of the garden. variety of birds even 23 years seven. These birds are also ing, jet-black body. tening experience, this call as I wondered whether this was later. Shouldn’t such a lovely known as the ‘Seven Sisters’, The koel continued calling being that of the Pitta the same Indian Pitta that had piece of environmental heri- due to their communal habits. I until its rival, a Tree-Pie, jam- (Psittacula kramerii). This small kept me melodious company tage be preserved? 8 MADRAS MUSINGS August 1-15, 2005 No place for softball in the Olympics... oftball, it was recently announced, has been Baseball had a place in a scheme of things where 1955. It was written by JOSEPH and USIS In- Sruled out as an Olympic event. cricket was practically a religion. Nevertheless, formation Officer RAYMOND BARTH. Reading this JAIBOY JOSEPH remembers the the game struggled on, survived and is now played Jaiboy Joseph says: “I was feature writer in time when enthusiastic efforts were made by on an organised scale in India – with Tamil Nadu the USIS na d I remember then the coach who lovers of the game (really speaking a softer variety as one of the better teams. Baseball too is now taught Madrasis the elements of the game was of Baseball) to popularise it in Madras with a view played in the country and, like Softball, has an Don MacNertny, the Operations Oficer, in to later making it an all-India game. This was in annual national championship tournament. USIS. One of the venues for the coaching was the early 1950s, and although there was much Published here is an article which appeared at the extension behind the back of the lawns of the early interest, enthusiasm faded as Americans in that time in the United State International Madras Gymkhana Club.” also attempt was Madras soon realised that neither Softball nor Information Administration letter dated June shortlived.

ersonal contact has been On the day of the game, sev- Pdescribed in India as the eral things happened. In the sixth medium of USIS. In Ma- ... but once there first place, the Madras teams dras, the familiar ‘contact’ of use balls so battered with age ball on bat has provided an ad- that they look more like a veg- ditional means for personal re- etable than a piece of athletic lationship between Americans was in Madras equipment. But the Pittsburgh and Indians. brought its own: glistening pel- Softball, the popular Ameri- lets that stung like sin when can game, has won a place in By the time the season exhibition games with Madras played on July 4, 1952 in Banga- caught. sports life here. Each year, more ended, with the YMCA Col- nines. lore. Special service volunteers Second, the Pittsburgh had lege ‘A’ team winning the title, staged the game as a benefit young men are learning the A big assist came from Ted a pitcher with blazing speed. For softball had gained consider- and drew 5,000 paying specta- game and spectators are show- Arnold of Madras YMCA Col- the first couple of innings the able momentum. Donald tors. But so far as the actual skill ing up. lege of Physical Education. He India players almost literally E. McNertney, USIS Opera- of Indian softballers is con- For the Americans who coached the league champs. never got the bar off their shoul- tions Officer, was a member of cerned, they really came of age strove hard to introduce softball The first games drew crowds of ders. But, finally, in the fourth, the Indo-American Softball on February 6, 1953. On that to Madras, their success has 400 to 500 students plus the in- a batter got hold of one and League Committee and the day the crew of the USS Pitts- been an object lesson – if in- evitable and unending passers- boomed it over left field for a prime mover in getting the burgh was in town, and they deed they needed one. They by. Soon, teams outside Madras home run. From then on things game popularised. naturally had a softball team. have learned that softball is not heard about it and began ask- changed. The Indians stepped (In fact, the ship had a league a peculiarly American game at ing for games (or ‘fixtures’ as in to meet the ball, choking up It took a year to get the of its own and boasted one or all. The Indian players have some call them). By the time on their bats to get a faster league formed. In August 1951, two ex-pros.) been able to show them a thing the Madras Olympic Games swing. Afield they caught the the Madras US Consulate and Fresh from repeated tri- or two in fast base-running and came around in 1955, it seemed blazing liners with all their old USIS staff put together a team umphs over the only available nimble fielding. In fact, when natural that the opening day skill and whipped the ball together with local American American team (nine old men the 1952-53 season ended, an businessmen. With a full turn- ceremonies should include a around as if inspired. The proud all-Indian team had won the ti- and a pumpkin), the league- out of cheering wives – in itself softball game. Pittsburgh, which had sent its tle, while the American entry leading YMCA ‘A’ team chal- a new experience for South In- best from a pick of 1,500 men, finished somewhere down in Perhaps the biggest single lenged the Pittsburgh to a dia — this team played a dozen eked out a 6-3 victory. the second division. game, in terms of turnout, was match. From that day on, Chacko, Softball was known here Chopde, Babu, Tirunarayanan long before the inauguration of and the other Indian stars league play in August, 1952. Answers to Quiz played like a new team. Al- The sport formed part of the ready good, they got better. physical education curriculum They went on to win the league in schools for years, but it took 1. Henry Kissinger; 2. Roger Sethusamuduram Ship Canal 11. N. Narayanan; 12. The Tatas; Federer and Venus Williams; 3. Project; 9. The National Flag can be 13. Indian Bank; 14. G. Subramania title with only one defeat in 13 the league to generate enthusi- Deep Impact; 4. London; 5. He be- sported by the public as long as it is Iyer; 15. P. Magesh Chandran; 16. games. But their opponents asm. The first schedule listed 56 came the first official substitute in above the waist; 10. UNESCO List. Poi; 17. Santosh Sivan’s Navarasa; were getting better, too. And it games with eight teams con- an ODI; 6. Doctor of Civil Law; 7. 18. Naresh Gupta; 19. ‘Puratchi seemed Softball had come to tending. Saif Ali Khan and Tara; 8. The * * * Kalaignar’; 20. . stay in Madras.

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