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Behind the Scenes

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1224

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS WRITER THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Abigail Blasi edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Thanks to all the people who helped me in , advice and interesting anecdotes: including my Delhi family Jyoti and Niranjan Desai, A Adeline Bouchery, Amanda Larson-Mekler, Amber to Danish Abbas, Nicholas Thompson, Sarah Foth- Richardson, Andy Foster, Ansuya Patel-Yorke, Anthony eringham, Toby Sinclair and the Delhi Walla himself, Naylon, Arpita Singh B Bernd Scholz, Borja Ramirez, Mayank Austen Soofi. Special gratitude to Joe Brett Leighton C Callum McQueen, Carolina Ech- Bindloss and to all the other authors for their enique, Chimmy Vyas, Chris Vaughan, Cindy Gray D help and knowledge. Huge thanks to my Mum, Ant & Daniel Scott, David Wilson, Deanna D’Onofrio, Deep Luca for looking after everyone at home. Grewal E Emanuela Milo, Erica Wijarnako G Gabriele Marangon, Gail Bruk-Jackson, Glenn Riddell, Grant Lindsay Brown Szuveges H Harry Smith, Henk Hilkmann, Hugh I am very grateful for the help and encouragement Connolly I Igor De Ruitz, Isabel Barrientos J James provided by Satinder, Karan & Ritu and Dicky & Freeborn, James Gannon, James Huxley, Jane McNab, Kavita in , Anoop in Pushkhar, Usha in Ranth- Jessica Killaspy, Joe Morley, Josée Arsenault, Julian ambhore, Harsh in Bikaner, Siddharth in Jaisalmer, Trummer K Kai Xue, Katya Burns, Kevin Pomplun, Ramesh Jangid in Nawalgarh, Laxmi Kant Jangid in Kirit Mehta L Les Sutherland, Lidor Cohen, Lisa Wor- Jhunjhunu and many many others who helped out thington, Lorenzo Facinelli, Lucas Almendra, Lynnell along the road. Last but not least, thanks to Jenny. Mickelsen M Manish Jain, Marie Grif, Mario Tarallo, Martin Davis, Michael Bridger, Michael Hornsby, Mi- Anirban Mahapatra chael Yon, Mrinal Kamat N Nasreen Singh, Nicholas My sincerest thanks above all to the amazing people cooper, Nick Brock, Nikola Smith, Nina Bee O Ofelia of , , , and the Diaz P Patricia Keith, Paul Wiegmann, Pratibha Sahu Northeast States for their splendid warmth and hos- R Rachel Ross, Rolf Wrelf, Ronin Pierre, Rosemary pitality. To Raja, Gina, Ashish, Samita, Joyita, Krishno, O’Donnell, Roz Green S Sam Ewalt, Samantha Spiro, Sukanya, Jone, Rajib, Mamli, Oken, Sum, Richard, Santosh Mohanty, Sean McHugh, Shane Hussey, Kanno, Omak, Souvik, Madhuparna, George, Sheila, Stephen Grinter, Steve Hughes T Thomas Janssens, Mahesh, Vikas, John, Tatu, Punyo and many other Tom Stuart, Tony Wheeler, Tricia Bergman V Van Cau- wonderful souls for sharing their local knowledge and wenberghe, Vanessa Bulhões, Víctor Castro, Vincent experience, inviting me into their homes, throwing Robitaille Z Zachary Nowak, Zoe Evans me their car keys and cooking me some delicious meals along the way. Thanks to everyone at Lonely 1225 Planet who made working on this title a breeze – Paul Harding cheers to all of you! Thanks to all my dear friends in and who helped out with company, advice and friend- Isabella Noble ship – you all know who you are. Thanks also to Thanks to everyone in , Ashish and new people, travellers and locals, I met on this Rucha Gupta and Shoshana Treichel in , trip. The biggest thanks goes to Hannah and my Bernard Dragon and Michel Adment in Chetti- worldly young daughter Layla for accompanying SCENES THE BEHIND nadu, Raja Balasubramanian in Trichy, Junaid Sait me at least part of the way and putting up with my and team in , Vijay Kumar in Kodai, and Mr absences at other times. Krishnamurthi­ on the Kanyakumari–Puducherry Express. In , huge thanks to Anna Kaminski Belinda Wright and Saptarishi Saigal. Thanks to the Thank you to Joe for entrusting me with dream India co-author team, especially John Noble and , and to all who’ve assisted me along for laughs, tips and safaris. At home, extra-­ the way, including: Abigail, Michael, Kevin, Iain (fel- special thanks to Jack, Andrew and Sarah. low scribes), Abhay, Rajiv, Saiyed, Mohammed and Anil in , Jehan, Katie and Salim in Bhuj, John Noble the Singhs in Wankaner, Mustak in Jamnagar, the So many fantastic people in India gave me help, good people of Desia and Chandoori Sai in Odisha’s smiles and fellowship. Extra special thanks to tribal country, Bubu in Puri; also Debjit, Sangarmi- Balvinder, Shubhda Chaturvedi, the Dhami family, tha, the Raja of Aul and everyone who helped me Mark Elliott, Gilbert Gillou and family, Nitesh during the demonetisation crisis. Jaiswal, Puneetinder Kaur Sidhu, Kristina Lauer, Vaneet Rana, Saptarishi Saigal, Sagnik Sengupta, Bradley Mayhew Reggie Singh, Ankit Sood, Panki Sood, Praveen Thanks to Norden and Thinley at Holumba Haven Sood, Sumit Raj Vashisht and Belinda Wright. Also for their many tips and to Jigme Tshering and to Joe Bindloss for steering the ship so expertly, Bunty for showing me around Kalimpong. Tash and above all to Isabella Noble with whom I shared delek to Norbu and Sangay-la in Darjeeling. Thanks the entire experience! also to Mithun Das in Madarihat and Gatty in Kevin Raub Darjeeling. Thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, Joe Sarina Singh Bindloss, Sarina Singh, John Noble, Izzy Noble, Paul Thank you to everyone who worked on this edition, Harding and all my partners-in-crime at LP. On the with special thanks to Joe for being such a fab DE. road, Anil Wadwa, Amit Arora, Dhanya Pilo, Sarita Gratitude, also, to the many readers who took the Hedge Roy, Tanvi Maidkaker, Roshnee Desai, Greg time to send in their feedback and travel experi- Kroitzsh, Rishupreet Oberoi, Bindu Panicker, Aditya ences – much appreciated indeed. Finally, warm Dhanwatay, Ashok T , Abha Lambah, Karina thanks to my wise and wonderful parents who have Aggarwal and Pankil Shah. always encouraged me to walk my own path. Michael Benanav Iain Stewart Huge thanks to Michael Schmid at Brown Bread Thanks to Trent Holden and John Noble for tips Bakery in Varanasi for being incredibly helpful to and contacts, and Joe Bindloss and the LP team in many travellers, including myself, when the ‘cash London and Melbourne. On the road I was helped crisis’ of 2016 struck. Thanks also to Shikha Tripa- by Jonty in , Poornima Dasharathi in thi, Sindhu Shah, Mukti Datta, John Noble, Monika Bengaluru, the teams at Golden Mist in Kodagu and Agarwal, Karan Singh, Praveen Kaushal and Mohan Uramma in , Prakash in Vijapura, Oliver the Rayal. As always, I’m ever grateful to Kelly and Luke in Gokarna and Vijay in Vizag. for taking care of the animals and each other while I was on the road. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Mark Elliott Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Enormous thanks to Rouf John & family, Tundup BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of & Gurmet, Mikka, Darren Clarkson-King, Najum, the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- Meraj, Shubham & Pranav, Manon, Maunil Vora, ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44. Abhishek & Pranav, Wasil Nawaz Khan, Namgyal & Sani, Christina & Tashi, Peter & Wendy, Veena & Illustrations pp1164–5, pp1166–7, p1168 by Kelli Maruti, Nittish & Sri, Tashi Tsering, Thinley, Sonam, Hamblet; pp372–3, pp870–1 by Michael Weldon, Jamie McG, Yanin & Mushtaq, Linda, Marie & Claire. pp62–3, pp356–7, pp638–9 by Javier Zarracina. In thanks so much to Smriti and Sartaj, Cover photograph: Woman covered in coloured Nukul, Rinjong, OT Lepcha, Karma Dorje & Minla gulal (powder) celebrating Holi/THEPALMER/Getty Zaymu, Wangdi, Sonam Bhutia, Pema at Mama’s, Images© Tom, Kheli & Gili, Anuj & Sonali, Edu, Jacky, Monika & Stina, Chundip, Champala & Thendup at Gang- yak, Passang, Guus, Pala, Farid Belhadj, Michael. 1226 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Destination Editor Kristin Odijk, Ross Taylor, THIS BOOK Joe Bindloss Saralinda Turner This 17th edition of Lonely Product Editor Cover Researcher Planet’s India guidebook was Kathryn Rowan Naomi Parker curated by Abigail Blasi, Lind- Cartographers Lonely Planet Thanks to Will Allen, Michelle say Brown, Anirban Mahapa- Cartography Bennett, Hannah Cartmel, tra, Isabella Noble, John Noble Book Designer Michael Buick Kate Chapman, Joel Cotterell, and Kevin Raub, who also Sarah Sasha Drew, Daniel Fahey, researched and wrote it along Assisting Editors Bailey, Judith Bamber, Imo- Gemma Graham, Shona Gray, with Michael Benanav, Mark gen Bannister, Bridget Blair, Liz Heynes, Kate Kiely, Virginia Elliott, Paul Harding, Anna Nigel Chin, Melanie Dankel, Moreno, Catherine Naghten, Kaminski, Bradley Mayhew, Sam Forge, Carly Hall, Helen Martine Power, Kirsten Rawl- Sarina Singh and Iain Stewart. Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Ali ings, Alison Ridgway, Wibowo This guidebook was produced Lemer, Anne Mulvaney, Rosie Rusli, Tom Stainer, Tracy by the following: Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, Whitmey ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1227

Index

A Ajmer 133-6, 134 Araku Valley 938 Goa 811 Abhaneri 125 281 Arambol (Harmal) 838-40 Jaipur 113 accommodation 1182-4, see Alappuzha (Alleppey) 960- archaeological sites, see (Cochin) 980 also individual locations 6, 962 also ruins Kollam (Quilon) 959 language 1214, 1217 Alchi 257 Dholavira 730 Kovalam 949, 952 activities 24-8, see also Allahabad 404-8, 406 Lalitgiri 617 individual activities Alleppey 960-6, 962 Mehrauli Archaeological (Mahabalipuram) 1027 people 1129 Almora 447-8 Park 101 Mandrem 838 Agartala 586-8, 587 Along 575-6 Complex 101 McLeod Ganj 324 Agonda 845-6 altitude sickness 241, 1211 Ratnagiri 617 Mysuru () 869 Agra 51, 352-75, 353, 360, Alwar 129-31 Udayagiri 617 Periyar Wildlife Sanctu- 362 Amaravathi 933-4 Unakoti 588 ary 969 accommodation 352 Amaravati 931 architecture 13, 868, 1164-8 Puducherry (Pondicherry) 1040 climate 352 Amber 125-6 area codes 19, 1088, 1193 Pushkar 137-8 drinking & nightlife 367 Amber Fort 125-6 art galleries, see galleries Thiruvananthapuram festivals & events 365 Amrithanandamayi 960 artist colonies 1024 arts 1159-63, see also indi- (Trivandrum) 945 food 352 Amritsar 212-19, 214 vidual arts Udaipur 156 highlights 353 amusement parks Aru 275 Varanasi 383 medical services 368 Esselworld 745 572-9 Ayyappan 968 shopping 367-8 Mountain Magic 443 Ashoka 1112 sights 353-61 Water Kingdom 745 39 tourist information 369 Anandpur Sahib 211-12 B tours 361-2 Amrithanandamayi 905-6 Andaman Islands 54, 1086- Mission 960 travel seasons 352 104, Badshahi Ashurkhana 914 1087 Rishikesh 415 travel to/from 369-70 climate 1086 Baga 825-9, 826 690 travel within 370 highlights 1087 Bageshwar 450-1 Sivagiri Mutt 953 358-60 tourist information Bahai House of Worship 76-7 Ashram Ahmedabad (Amdavad) 1088-9 Bandel 487-8 1038-9 688-99, 690-1 travel seasons 1086 Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve Vivekanandapuram 1067 accommodation 694-5 travel to/from 1089 678-80 Assagao 832-3 festivals & events 694 travel within 1089-90 561-72 878-80 food 695-7 53, 911-13, Aswem 837 , see Bengaluru shopping 697 931-40, 912 ATMs 1188-9 sights 689-93 climate 911 Bangladesh Auli 438-9 tourist information 697-8 festivals & events 913 border crossings 494, Aurangabad 779-83, 780 586, 592, 1196 tours 693-4 food 911 Auroville 1044-5 travel to/from 1196 travel to/from 698-9 highlights 912 autorickshaws 1201 Banjar Valley 299-301 travel within 699 travel seasons 911 Avalanche Valley 1082 Bansberia 488 906-7 903 avian flu 1209 bargaining 1152 air travel 1195, 1197-8 animals, see wildlife, individ- Ayodhya 402-4 Barkul 610-11 Aizawl 585-6 ual species ayurveda 23, 39-40, 957, 41 Baroda 701-3 Ajanta 12, 787-90, 788, Anjuna 829-32, 830 Alappuzha (Alleppey) 961 Barsheni 305 12, 629 Anmu 266 Basgo 256 antiques 1188 Bengaluru (Bangalore) 858 Baspa Valley 294-5 Map Pages 000 aquariums 953-4 Delhi 79 Bathinda 221-2 Photo Pages 000 arak 1147 Dharamkot 331 bathrooms 1193 1228 bazaars, see markets & tours 858 538 bazaars travel to/from 865 567 1133 beaches 22 travel within 866 Ranganathittu Bird Brahman 1133 Alleppey Beach 961 Berhampore 491-2 Sanctuary 878 Brahmasarovar 223 Anjuna 829 Betla (Palamau) National Sultanpur Bird British Residency (Hydera- Aswem 837 Park 533-4 Sanctuary 224 bad) 915-17

INDEX INDEX Bheemunipatnam 937 Bhadarwah 281 Thattekkad Bird 932, 1138-9 Sanctuary 975 Chennai (Madras) 1009 Bhagsu 329-31 Buddhist , see also Bishnupur 488 Cherai 989-90 Bhaja Caves 799 black market 1189 ,B- Cola Beach 844 Bhandardara 777-9 Ajanta 12, 787-90, 788  National Park C 12, 629  Corbyn’s Cove 1090 bhang lassi 1191 706 Diu 710 Bharatpur 126-9, 127 Burmese & 706 Monastery 392 Gokarna 893 Bharmour 339-41 boat travel 1196, 1199, 1201 Chetiyagiri Vihara 654 Havelock Island 1095, 23 Bhavnagar 704-6, 705 boat trips 22 Chokhang Vihara 229-30 Kattoor 966 Bheemunipatnam 937 Alappuzha (Alleppey) Choskhor temple Khancola Beach 844 Bhimbetka 651 961 complex 257 Kollam (Quilon) 958 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Assam 563 Ellora 785-6 Lighthouse 949 Sanctuary 618-20 Candolim 823 Global Pagoda 748-9, 41 Little Andaman 1104 Bhojpur 651 Diu 710 Himalayan Nyinmapa 929-30 Malvan 796 Goa 815-16 Buddhist Temple 309 Mamallapuram (Mahaba- 645-50, 646 Hooghly River 488 Japanese Peace Pagoda lipuram) 1027 Bhubaneswar 595-602, Kerala’s backwaters 499-500 Mandarmani 487 596-7 964-5 525 Mandrem 837-8 Bhuj 724-9, 725 Kochi (Cochin) 981 Mahaparinirvana Temple Mangaluru (Mangalore) Bhuntar 301-2 Kolkata (Calcutta) 466 394 887 Bhutan Kollam (Quilon) 958 Mathakuar Temple 394 Marari 966 border crossings 494, Kota 148 Mulgandha Kuti Vihar 393 Morjim 836 1196-7 Lakshadweep 1001 650-5, 652, 1168 (Bombay) travel to/from 1196-7 Periyar Wildlife Thai Temple & Monas- 745, 748 bicycle travel, see cycling Sanctuary 969 tery 392 Neil Island 1099 909-10 Puducherry (Pondi- Triloknath Temple 343 Palolem 846-9, 847, 14 52, 516-31, 517 cherry) 1040 Tsuglagkhang Complex Patnem 849-50 accommodation 516 Srinagar 268, 270-1 321, 323 Payyambalam Beach climate 516 Sunderbans Tiger Tsuklakhang 539 998 festivals & events 518 Reserve 486, 487 Wat Thai Complex 394 Puri 604 food 516 Udaipur 154 budget 19 Visakhapatnam 935 highlights 517 Valiyaparamba buffalo racing 892 bears 371, 902 backwaters 1001 907-9, 908 Bundi 143-8, 144 beer 762, 862, 1148 boating Bikaner 194-200, 196-7 bus travel 1199-200, 1201 Bekal 1000-1 (Kodai) 1070 Biligiri Ranganna Temple business hours 19, 1190 Belur (Beluru) 884 Ooty (Udhagamanda- Wildlife Sanctuary 879 Bylakuppe 883 Belur Math 464 lam) 1081 Billing 334 Benaulim 843-5 Bodhgaya 525-9, 526 Binsar 449 Bengaluru (Bangalore) 53, Bodhi Tree 525 C Bir 334 853-66, 854 765 cable cars bird flu 1209 accommodation 858-60 Bombay, see Mumbai Auli 439 birds 1172 activities 858 Bomdila 576 Mussoorie 430 birdwatching 1170, 1172 drinking & nightlife books 1106 Raj Bhavan 443 Backwoods Camp 818 862-3 food 1141, 1142, 1143, Rangit Valley Ropeway entertainment 863 Hampi 898 1144, 1145 500 food 860-1 health 1208 Calangute 825-9, 826 127-8 shopping 863-4 history 1110, 1113, 1115, Calcutta, see Kolkata Khijadiya Bird 1117, 1118, 1121, 1122 Calicut 993-5, sights 856-8 Sanctuary 723 994 border crossings 1196-7 camel fairs 138 tourist information Kumarakom Bird Bangladesh 494, 586, 864-5 Sanctuary 967-8 camel safaris 592, 1196 Majuli Island 569 Bikaner 195 Bhutan 494, 1196-7 Mumbai (Bombay) 751 Jaisalmer 190-1 Map Pages 000 Nepal 390, 391, 396, 447, Sam Sand Dunes 193 Nalsarovar Bird 494, 524, 1197, 1198 Photo Pages 000 Sanctuary 699 camping 1183 Pakistan 183, 220-1, 1197 1229 Candolim 823-5 travel to/from 210 Chitrakote Falls 685 1073-6, 1074 canyoning 47, 846, 904 travel within 210 Chitrakut 404 Colva 842-3 Capital Complex 203 Chandor 842 (Chittor) 149- Connemara Tea Factory car travel 1200-1 chapatis 1141 52, 150 968-9 carbon-monoxide poison- Chapora 833-6, 834 Chola 1049 consulates 1184-6 ing 1210 Char Dham 433-7 cholera 1209 cooking courses carpets 1151-2 charas (hashish) 302 choli 1127 Anjuna 829 INDEX cash 1189 Chaturbhuj Temple 631, Christianity 1139-40 Assagao 832 caste system 1127-8 629 churches & cathedrals Delhi 80

-cathedrals, see churches & Chemrey 248 Armenian 1011 Jaipur 113  C cathedrals Chennai (Madras) 54, Basilica of Bom Jesus Kochi (Cochin) 981  C Cauvery River 1047 1002-25, 1006-7, 820 Kolkata (Calcutta) 467-8 caves 1012-13 Christ Church (Mus- McLeod Ganj 326 Ajanta 12, 787-90, 788, accommodation 1011-15 soorie) 430 973 12, 629 activities 1011 Christ Church () Palolem 846 283, 287 Aurangabad Caves climate 1002 Periyar Wildlife Church & Convent of St 779-80 courses 1011 Sanctuary 969 Cajetan 821 Badami Cave Temples drinking & nightlife Pushkar 138 905-6 Church of Our Lady 1018-19 Udaipur 156 Bhaja Caves 799 of the Immaculate entertainment 1019 Conception 813, 815 1076-8 Borra Caves 938 festivals & events 1011 Church of Corbett Tiger Reserve Cave Temples (Badami) food 1015-18 993 440-3 905-6 history 1005 Luz Church 1011 costs 19 Edakkal Caves 995 medical services 1020-1 MacFarlane Church 509 accommodation 1182 Ellora 784-7, 785, 21 orientation 1020 New Jerusalem Church car travel 1200-1 Karla Caves 799 shopping 1019 1047 food 1186 Khandagiri Caves 597-8 sights 1005-11 Notre Dame des Anges solo travellers 1181 Pachmarhi 657 tourist information 1021 1040, 17 train travel 1205 Cave tours 1011 Our Lady of Immaculate courses, see also cooking 298 travel seasons 1002 Conception Cathedral courses Tabo 350 1040 travel to/from 1020, art 1011 Tiger Cave 1024 1021-2 Our Lady of Lourdes ayurvedic 722 Cave Temple Cathedral 991 travel within 1022-4 language 1011, 1187 1028 Sacred Heart Basilica Chennamangalam 991 martial arts 945 Udaigiri Caves 655 1040 Cheras, kingdom of 943 1025 Udayagiri Caves 597-8 Salvation Army Temple Cherrapunjee (Sohra) 592 credit cards 1178, 1189 cell phones 18, 1191-2 585 Chettiars 1057 cricket 1131-2 Cellular Jail National San Thome Cathedral crocodiles Memorial 1090 Chettinadu 1057-9 1010 Bhitarkanika Wildlife cemeteries Chhatrapati Shivaji Santa Cruz Basilica 979 Terminus 739, 742 Sanctuary 618-19 Dutch Cemetery 979 Sé Cathedral 820 52, 621-3, St Aloysius College Madras Crocodile Bank Imphal War Cemetery 1024 583 681-5, 622 Chapel 886 Cubbon Park 857 Nicholson Cemetery 67 accommodation 621 St Andrew’s Church 1011 cultural programs South Park Street climate 621 St Francis Church 979 Puducherry (Pondi- Cemetery 456-7 festivals & events 623 St John in the Wilder- cherry) 1040 War Cemetery 579 food 621 ness 323 highlights 622 St John’s Church 460 Thiruvananthapuram chai 1147 (Trivandrum) 945 travel seasons 621 St Mary’s Church 1009 Chamba 336-9 Thrissur (Trichur) 993 Chidambaram 1045-7 St Paul’s Cathedral 456 Chamba Valley 335-41 culture 1126-13 Chidiya Tapu 1094-5 St Stephen’s Church Champaner 704 currency 18, 1189 children, travel with 47-9, 1079 Chand Baori 125 customs regulations 1184 Chandarnagar 487 745 St Teresa’s Church 511 Chilika Lake 609-11 St Thomas’ Cathedral cycle-rickshaws 1201 Chandigarh 203-10, 204-5 Chilling 255-6 744 cycling 20, 1198-9, see also accommodation 207-8 mountain biking Chinese Fishing Nets 977 cinema 1162-3 activities 206-7 Delhi 79 Chinnar Wildlife Cinque Island 1094 drinking & nightlife 209 Sanctuary 976 climate 18, 24-8, see Jaipur 113 food 208-9 Chinsurah 488 also individual regions Kochi (Cochin) 981 shopping 209-10 Chitkul 294-5 Cochin, see Kochi Kodaikanal (Kodai) 1070 sights 203-6 Leh 232 1230 cycling continued Old Delhi 60-8, 80-1, elephant rides & safaris Covelong Point Surf & Mamallapuram 85-6, 94-102, 64-5 Betla (Palamau) National Music Festival 1025 (Mahabalipuram) 1028 Paharganj 81-3, 86-7, 82 Park 533-4 Delhi 57 Orchha 631-2 safety 96-7 Corbett Tiger Reserve Dev Diwali 377 Udaipur 156-7 shopping 93-102 441 Dharamsala Interna- sights 57-79 Jaldhapara Wildlife tional Film Festival

INDEX INDEX Sanctuary 495 326 South Delhi 76-8, 84-5, D Diwali 28 90-1, 96, 76-7 da Gama, Vasco 943, 993 567-8 tourist information 97 228 dabba-wallahs 759 Elephanta Island 749 Dover Lane Music 468 C- tours 79-80  Dal Lake 267-8 elephants 1169, 23 F travel seasons 56 471, 485  Dalai 324 Wayanad region 995 travel to/from 97-8 Dussehra 24, 27, 306, Dalhousie 335-6, 335 Ellora 784-7, 694, 869 travel within 98-101 785 dance 1159 934 Dussehra 112 West Delhi 83-4, 86-7 Dandeli 904 embassies 1184-6 Eid-ul-fitr 468 Demul 348 dangers, see safety embroidery 728-9 Ernakulathappan dengue fever 1209 Daporijo 575 emergencies 19 Utsavam 981 Dhainkund 335 266 language 1216, 1218 Festival of Dance 642 dhal 1142 Darjeeling 52, 497-507, encephalitis, Japanese Free Spirit Film Festival Dhankar 349 498, 509, 14 B 1209 326 Dhanushkodi 1065 accommodation 502-3 environmental issues Ganesh Chaturthi 27 drinking & nightlife 505 Dharamkot 329-31 1174-6 Sagar Mela 485, food 503-5 Dharamsala 319-20, 320 climate change 1176, 486 internet access 506 888-9 1195 112 itineraries 500 dhoti 1127 1172-3, Gita Jayanti 203 medical services 506 diarrhoea 1209-10 1176 Goa 811 shopping 505-6 Dibrugarh 571-2 1171 Gujarat 688 sights 497-501 Diglipur 1102-3 internet resources 1170 Harballabh Sangeet Sammelan 203 tea estates 504 Dimapur 579 Kerala (houseboats) 965 Haryana 203 tourist information 506 Dirang 576-8 water 233, 1176 283 travel to/from 506-7 disabilities, travellers with 1193 976 Holi 24, 25, 410 travel within 507 Diskit 251 etiquette 1108, 1137, 1146 Holla Mohalla 203 Darjeeling Himalayan Railway 507 Diu 708-12, 709 events 24-8, see also festi- International vals & events Festival 418 Daulatabad 783-4 diving exchange rates 19 Jagaddhatri Puja 485 Deeg 130 Havelock Island 1095-7 Jammu 228 Dehra Dun 425-9, 427 Kovalam 949 Janmastami 410 Delhi 16, 50, 56-103, Lakshadweep 1001 F Flamenco & 58-9, 16 Long Island 1102 Faridkot 222 Gypsy Festival 178 accommodation 56, 80-5 Malvan 796 Fatehpur 172 Kailash Fair 365 activities 79 Neil Island 1099 371-5, 373- 853 climate 56 Port Blair 1090 4, 629 Kashmir 228 Connaught Place 68-9, Diwali 24, 28 festivals & events 24-8 Kerala 943 83, 87-8, 95, 68-9 Don Bosco Museum of Adivasi Mela 599 Ki Chaam Festival 283, courses 80 Indigenous Cultures Amarnathji 277 347 drinking & nightlife 91-2 589-90 Andhra Pradesh 913 dosas 1142 Kila Sports entertainment 93 Ardh Mela 404 Festival 203 Dr Graham’s Home 511 festivals & events 57 Baisakhi 203 Kolkata Book Fair 468 drinks 1146-8 food 56, 85-91 Bastille Day 1041 Kolkata (Calcutta) 468 driving 1200-1 highlights 58-9 Bengali New Year 485 Kolkata Film Festival 468 drugs 1178, 1187-8 internet access 97 Boro Din 468 Kolkata Jazzfest 468 Dudhsagar Falls 813 Majnu-ka-Tilla 85 Brahmotsavam 913, Kollam Pooram 959 Durga Puja 471, 485 938, 1010 medical services 97 Kottamkulangara Cha- Dussehra 24, 27, 306, New Delhi 69-75, 84, Chandi Mata Yatra 228 maya Vilakku 959 694, 869 88-90, 95-6, 72-3 Chariot Festivals 1046 Kumbh Mela 421-2, 663, Dzongri 556-7, 557 Chennai Festival of 775, 1129 Music & Dance 1011 Festival 228 Chhath Festival 518 Map Pages 000 E 228, 283 Chithirai Festival 1062 Photo Pages 000 economy 1107 Madhya Pradesh 623 electricity 1184 Cochin Carnival 981 Madras Week 1011 1231 Magh Mela 377, 405, 489 Tibet Film Festival 326 917-19 National Gallery of 774 Tibetan Opera Festival Govindgarh 221-2 Modern Art (Ben- Mamallapuram Dance 326 625-6 galuru) 856 Festival 1028 Uthralikavu Pooram 991 Fort 272 National Gallery of Mamallapuram (Mahaba- 414 Modern Art (Delhi) Jaigarh 126 71, 856 lipuram) 1028 377 15, 184, 15 Gandhi, Mahatma 450, 720, Manimahesh Yatra 283 INDEX Virupaksha Car Festival Janjira 793 724, 1121-2, 1155 Marwar Festival 178 899 Junagarh 194-5 Ganesh 1134 Matho Nagrang 245 Visakha Utsav 935 Kamru Fort 294 Ganesh Chaturthi 24, 27

-Mewar Festival 157 West Bengal 485  F Kangla Fort 583 Gangotri 433-4 Minjar Festival 283 film 765  G 332 Gangtok 538-45, Muharram 913 films 1106, 1162-3 540 Kankwari Fort 132 Ganpatipule 794-5 Natyanjali Dance Festival food 1141-50 163 gardens 1046 Bengali cuisine 473 Lohagarh 127 Cubbon Park 857 Navratri 27, 694 books 1141, 1142, 1143, Madikeri Fort 881 Nehru Trophy Boat 1144, 1145 Lalbagh Botanical 17, 175-6, Gardens 857 Race 961 chapatis 1141 17 Naggar Castle 307 Garo Hills 591-2 Northeast States 561 costs 1186 Nahargarh 111-12 Gaumukh 433-4 Odisha 595 desserts 1144 Fort 807 491 26, 943 dhal 1142 73-104 gay travellers 763, 1188 Pandit Motiram-Maniram dosas 1142 219-20 Gaya 524-5 Sangeet Samaroh 920 etiquette 1146 Raghupur Fort 299 gem scams 1178-9 Pataliputra Mahotsava Goan cuisine 817 518 794 geography 1174-5 Gujurati cuisine 696 Phulech Festival 283 60-1, 62-3, Gete 347 Hyderabad cuisine 924 Pinjore Heritage Festival 62-3 internet resources 1147 203 801 Dashashwamedh Kashmiri cuisine 273 Poush Mela 489 Fort 806 382, 4, 14 kebabs 400 President’s Trophy Boat 796 Haridwar 421 Ladakhi cuisine 239 Race 959 806 Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat Punjab 203 language 1148-50, 1214- 745 15, 1217 Sultan’s Battery 886 Puri Beach Festival 605 Mathura 409 Mumbai cuisine Taragarh 145 377 Mumbai (Bombay) 745 paan 1143 Tsemo Fort 230 Pushkar Camel Fair 138 Ram Ghat 663 rice 1141 Tughlaqabad 102 112 Ramkund 775 roti 1141 Uparkot Fort 716-17 Rajasthan International Varanasi 381-2, 4, 14 safety 1178, 1210 Fort 1033 Folk Festival 178 Ghum 501 Sikkim cuisine 543 930 Rajgir Mahotsava 518, 529 Gingee (Senji) 1037 spices 1141 Ram Barat 365 & Wildlife street food 1144-5 Ram Lila 377 G Sanctuary 713-15 tours 1061 galleries, see also Rath Yatra 468, 485, 605 Girnar Hill 716 forts 20 museums Sankranti 913 glaciers 433, 435 Academy of Fine Arts Puja 468 Agra Fort 358-60 (Kolkata) 459 Goa 14, 53, 809-50, Shivaratri Mela 658 Akbar’s Fort 405 810, 14 Amber Fort 125-6 Birla Modern Art Gallery Sikkim 537 917 accommodation 809 Sonepur Mela 518 Anandpur Sahib climate 809 Fort 212 Book Building 1011 SulaFest 776 festivals & events 811 Bala Quila 130-1 Cholamandal Artists’ Surajkund Crafts Mela Village 1024 highlights 810 857 224 CIMA 465 travel seasons 809 691 Taj Mahotsav 365 Crystal Gallery 153 556-7, 557 Tamil Nadu 1004 909-10 DAG Modern 744 Gokarna 893-6, 891 Chandragiri Fort 940 Teej 112 Government Museum & Golconda Fort 917-19 Chittorgarh 149-51 Telangu 913 Art Gallery (Chandi- Golden Temple 17, 212-13, Citadel (Vijapura) 907 Teppam (Float) Festival garh) 204-6 17, 1166-7 1062 Dansborg 1047 Harrington Street Arts golf Thrissur Pooram 991 Daulatabad 783-4 Centre 459 Delhi 79 Thyagaraja Aradhana Diu Fort 708-9 Jehangir Art Gallery 743 Kolkata (Calcutta) 467 1052 823 Kalakriti Art Gallery 917 Naldehra 292 Thypooya Maholsavam Fort St George 1009 Karnataka Chitrakala 1139 991 1037 Parishath 856 1232 Gondal 719-20 Mohanlal Ishwardas Akshardham Temple 78 Iskcon Temple (Ben- Gopalpur-on-Sea 611-12 Modi Haveli 171 Arunachaleshwar Temple galuru) 857-8 Gorakhpur 393-4 Murmuria Haveli 173 1034-5 Iskcon Temple (Mum- Govind Wildlife Sanctuary Nathmal-ki-Haveli 187 Badrinath Temple 436 bai) 748 & National Park 434 Patwa-ki-Haveli 186-7 Bala Temple Jagannath Mandir (Puri) Gramphu 341, 344 Shekhawati 173 722 604

INDEX INDEX Jagannath Temple Great Himalayan National Havelock Island 1095-8, Bhimakali Temple 293 (Koraput) 612 Park 299, 301 1096, 23 Bhootnath Mandir 297 Jagdish Temple 155 Guda Bishnoi 183 Hawa Mahal 111 Bijamandala Temple 642 Jakhu Temple 288 G- Gujarat 53, 686-733, 687 headhunting 581 Bijli Mahadev Temple  306 Jalakantesvara Temple H accommodation 686 health 1206-12  1033 climate 686 books 1208 Birla Mandir (Hydera- bad) 917 Janardhana Temple 953 festivals & events 688, checklist 1206-7 Birla Mandir (Kolkata) Javari Temple 641 700 children 49 465 Jhandewalan Hanuman food 686 environmental hazards Bisheshwar Mahadev Temple 68 highlights 687 1210-12 Temple 301-2 Kailasa Temple 784-5, 21 travel seasons 686 insurance 1206 Brahma Temple (Khaju- Kailasanatha Temple Gujarat Ayurved internet resources 1208 raho) 641 1030-1 University 722 services 1208 Brahma Temple (Push- Kala Temple 775 Gulabgarh 280, 281 vaccinations 1206, 1207 kar) 136-7, Kalighat Temple 464 Gulmarg 276, 28 heatstroke 1211 Brajeshwari Temple Kamakhya Mandir 561 Guntupalli 933 332 Heliodorus Pillar 655 Kamakshi Amman Gurgaon (Gurugram) 102-3 Hemis 247-8 Brihadishwara Temple Temple 1031 1050 Shikhar 167 248 Kanak Bhavan 403 Bull Temple 857 Guwahati 561-5, 562 Hemis Shukpachan 256 Kanaka Durga Temple 931 Cave Temples (Badami) Gwalior 623-30, 624 henna 1161 Kandariya-Mahadev 905-6 Gwalior Fort 625-6 hepatitis 1209 Temple 637, 640 Channakeshava Temple Hesaraghatta 866-7 884 hijras 1131 1010 H Chaturbhuj Temple hiking, see trekking Temple 198 haggling 1152 631, 629 Kesava Deo Temple 409 Hajo 565-6 Hikkim 347 Chaturbhuja Temple 642 temples 15, Halebid 884-5 hill stations 14 Chaurasi Temples 339 Coonoor 1076-8 635-45, 636, 15, 628, Hampi 11, 842, 896-902, Chausath Yogini Temple 638-9 , , Dalhousie 335-6, 335 640 898 900 11 Balaram Temple Darjeeling 52, 497-507, handicrafts 447, 500, 511, Chhatarpur Mandir 77-8 Complex (Vrindavan) 728-9 498, 509, 14 Chitragupta Temple 640 410-11 Haridwar 421-4, 422 1078 Devi Jagadamba Temple Krishna Temple () Harmal, see Arambol Hills 211 640 889 Haryana 50, 201, 223-4, Mt Abu 165-9, 166 642 Kumari Amman Temple 202 Mussoorie 429-32, 430 Ekambareshwara Temple 1065-6 accommodation 201 Ooty (Udhagamandalam) 1031 Kumbeshwara Temple climate 201 1078-84, 1080 Elephanta Island 749 1048 festivals & events 203 Shimla 283-91, 286-7 Ellora 786, 21 Temple 637 food 201 Himachal Pradesh 51, 282- Five Rathas 1025-7 Narayan Temple highlights 202 351, 284-5 Galta 112-13 ( Delhi) 67-8 travel seasons 201 accommodation 282 Gangaikondacholapuram Lakshmi Narayan Temple (Rajgir) 530 hashish 302 climate 282 Temple 1049 Lakshmi Narayan Temple festivals & events 283 Gangotri Temple 433-4 Hassan 884 Complex (Chambra) Gauri Sagar 571 havelis food 282 336-7 Gita Temple 409 Bhagton ki Choti Haveli highlights 284 Laxminarayan Temple 169 travel seasons 282 Govind Dev Temple 411 186 Binsidhar Newatia Himalaya 1174 Hadimba Temple 309 Lingaraj Mandir 596 Haveli 173 language 1213-17 Hanuman Temple Mahabaleshwara Temple Le Prince Haveli 172 Hindu temples (Anegundi) 903 893 Modi Havelis 171 1000-Pillared Temple Hanuman Temple Mahadeva Temple 640 (Khajuraho) 641 930 Mahaganapati Temple Ahom Temples 570 Hanumangarhi 402 893 Map Pages 000 Harsiddhi Mandir 663 Mahakaleshwar Mandir Photo Pages 000 1049 Hoysaleswara Temple 884 663 1233 Mahalaxmi Temple Temple of Somnath 713 Hooghly River 487-8 internet resources 19 745, 807 Thirunelly Temple 995 horse riding air tickets 1197-8 Manjunatha Temple 888 Triloknath Temple 343 Darjeeling 501 food 1147 Maharishi Temple Trimbakeshwar Temple Nainital 444 health 1208 309 779 Udaipur 156 history 1109, 1110 Markula Devi Temple 343 Trimurti Cave Temple Hosapete (Hospet) 904 1136-7

Matangesvara Temple 1028 hot springs Islamnagar 651 INDEX 640 Undavalli Cave Temples Khir Ganga 305 islands Meenakshi Amman 931 Vashisht 317-18 Andaman Islands 54, Temple 1059-60, 1165, Vadakkunathan -Yamunotri 433 1086-104, 1087  H 1164-5 Kshetram Temple 991 Elephanta Island 749  J Mukteswar Mandir 596 Vaidyanath Temple 333 houseboats Havelock Island 1095-8, Nageshwara Temple Vaikunta Perumal Alappuzha (Alleppey) 1047-8 Temple 1031 961 1096, 23 Naina Bhagwati Temple Temple 641 Kerala’s backwaters Jagmandir Island 154-5 964-5 306 Varadaraja Perumal Majuli Island 569-70 Nanda Devi Temple 447 Temple 1031-2 Kollam (Quilon) 958 Neil Island 1099-10 Temple 1046 Vashisht Mandir 317 Srinagar 268, 270-1 Ponnumthuruthu Nil Kanth Palace 669 Venkateshwara Temple Valiyaparamba’s backwa- (Golden) Island 954 ters 1001 Old Rangji Temple 136 938-9 Ross Island 1092 Hubballi (Hubli) 904-5 Pagal Baba Temple 411 Vijayalaya Cholisvaram Sagar Island 749 Hundarman 261 Pap Mochani (Gayatri) 1058 St Mary’s Island 892 Temple 137 Virupaksha Temple 896 Hunder 251 Iswari Minar Swarga Sal 111 Parthasarathy Temple Vishvanath Temple 640 Hyderabad 913-29, 915, Itanagar 573-4 1009 Vishwanath Temple 916, 918, 922, 925 itineraries 29-33 Temple 640 380-1 accommodation 920-2 Darjeeling 500 Patalpuri Temple 405 Vittala Temple 896-7 drinking & nightlife 926-7 Kolkata (Calcutta) 457 Pratapeswar Temple 640 Yamunotri Temple 433 entertainment 926-7 Raghunath Mandir Hinduism 1133-6 festivals & events 913 (Jammu) 278 history 1109-25 food 922-6 J 673-6, 674 Raghunath Temple books 1110, 1113, 1115, medical services 927 Jagdalpur 683-5 (Kullu) 306 1117, 1118, 1121, 1122 shopping 927 Jageshwar 449 Rajarani Mandir 598 British rule 1118-19 tourist information 927 Jagmandir Island 154-5 930-1 Buddhism 1111 tours 920 Jain temples Ram Janam 403 early civilisations 1109-11 travel to/from 927-8 Adinath Mandir (Jamna- Ram Raja Temple 631 films 1121, 1125 travel within 928-9 gar) 721 Rock Fort Temple 1054-5 French era 1118 Adinath Temple (Khaju- Sarangapani Temple 1048 Gupta empire 1111-13 I raho) 641 Sasbahu Temples 626 Hindu reign 1113 Igatpuri 779 Babu Amichand Panalal Savitri Mata Temple 136 independence 1122-4 immigration 1195 Adishwarji 1025 Indian Uprising 1120 745 Imphal 583-4 Shri Padmanabhaswamy internet resources 1109, Bhandasar Temple 195 Indian Coffee House 946 Temple 945 1110 Cave Temples (Badami) indigenous peoples Simhachalam Temple 935 1111 905-6 Adivasi people 1129 Sri Jambukeshwara Kashmir conflict 1123 Delwara Temples 165 Andamanese people 1101 Temple 1054 era 1117 Digambara Jain Apatani 575 Sri Kalahasteeswara Mauryan empire 1111 Temple 61 Temple 940 Jarawa people 1101 1115-17 Ellora 786-7 Sri Manakula Vinayagar Nicobarese people 1101 Muslim reign 1113-14 641 Temple 1039 Odisha 614 Partition 1122-4 Hutheesingh Temple 689 Sri Ranganathaswamy Onge people 1101 Portuguese era 1118-19 Jaisalmer 185 Temple 1053-4 Sentinelese people 1101 era 1117 Mahavira Temple 183 Subrahmanya Temple Shompen people 1101 1024 Vijayanagar empire 1116 Nasiyan (Red) Temple Indore 659-62, 660 134-5 Sun Temple 608-9 hitching 1201 influenza 1209 Parasnath Temple 532 Swaminarayan Temple HIV 1209 insurance 692 hockey 1132 Parsvanath Temple 641 health 1206 Swarg Niwas & Shri Holi 24, 25 Ranakpur 164 motorcycle 1203 Trayanbakshwar 414-15 holidays 1190-1 Shantinath Mandir travel 1186 (Jamnagar) 721 Tapkeshwar Temple 426 Homestay Trail 348 internet access 1186-7 Shantinath Temple Teli ka Mandir 626 homestays 1183-4 (Khajuraho) 641 1234 Jainism 1139 Jhansi 403 Kathakali 972, 981, 986, food 985-6 Jaintia Hills 591-2 52, 516-18, 987, 990 medical services 987-8 Jaipur 105-25, 108-9 531-4, 517 Katra 281 shopping 987 accommodation 115-17 accommodation 516 Kausani 450 sights 977-80 activities 113 climate 516 kayaking tourist information 988 courses 113 festivals & events 518 Alappuzha (Alleppey) tours 981

INDEX INDEX 961 drinking & nightlife 120 food 516 travel around 989-90 Leh 232-3 entertainment 120-1 highlights 517 travel to/from 988-9 Palolem 846 food 118-19 Jhunjhunu 171-2 Kodagu (Coorg) 881-3

J- Rishikesh 417  internet access 122 Jodhpur 174-83, 176-7 Kodaikanal (Kodai) 1069-

K Kaza 345-6  medical services 122 181 73, 1070 Kaziranga National Park shopping 121-5 Jog Falls 892 Kohima 579-81 567-8 sights 105-13 Jorhat 569 806-8 Kedarnath 435-6 tourist information 122 Joshimath 437-8 Kolkata (Calcutta) 51, Keoladeo National Park tours 113-15 Junagadh 716-19, 717 452-82, 453, 454-5, 126-9 , , travel to/from 122-4 458-9 462 466 Kerala 13, 54, 941-1002, accommodation 452, travel within 124-5 K 942, 13 468-72 walking tours 114, 114 K3 route 280 accommodation 941 climate 452 Jaisalmer 15, 184-93, Kaba Gandhi No Delo 720 boat trips 964-5 drinking & nightlife 476-7 186-7, 15 kabaddi 1132 climate 941 festivals & events 468, Jaisalmer Fort 15, 184, 15 Kachchh (Kutch) 724-33 festivals & events 943 471 Jaldhapara Wildlife Kakkabe 883 food 941 food 452, 472-5 Sanctuary 495-6 highlights 942 highlights 453 Jalgaon 790 1010 travel seasons 941 internet access 479 Jallianwala Bagh 213 kalarippayat 986-7, 990 Keylong 280, 342-3 itineraries 457 massacre 217 Kalga 305 khadi 1155, 1156 medical services 479 Jama Masjid (Ahmedabad) Kalimpong 509-15, 510 Khajuraho 15, 635-45, , shopping 477-9 693 636 Kalka-Shimla Railway 291 15, 628, 638-9 sights 455-66 Jama Masjid (Delhi) 66-7, Kalpa 295-6 Khalsa College 213-14 16, 1168 tourist information 480 Kalpetta 995 Khandagiri Caves 597-8 Jama Masjid (Fatehpur tours 468 Khangchendzonga Trek Sikri) 371, 629 Kama Sutra 15, 638, 884 travel seasons 452 556-7 Jama Masjid (Mandu) 667 Kamakshi 1031 travel to/from 480-1 Kharsali 433 Jammu (city) 278-81, 279 Kanchipuram 1030-2, 1031 travel within 481-2 Khecheopalri Lake 554 Jammu & Kashmir (state) Kanger Valley National Kollam (Quilon) 957-60, Park 685 Khejadali 183 51, 225-81, 226-7 958 Khir Ganga 305 accommodation 225 Kangra 331-2 Komic 347-8 Khoksar 341 climate 225 676-8 Konark 608-9 Khonoma 580 festivals & events 228 Kannur 998-1000 Konkan Coast 793-7 Khotachiwadi 749 food 225 Kanyakumari (Cape Co- Konkan Railway 795 morin) 1065-8, 1066 Khuri 193-4 highlights 226-7 Konyak Villages 582 Kapurthala 223 Ki 346-7 travel seasons 225 Koraput 612-13 Karaikkudi 1057 347 Jamnagar 720-3, 721 Korzok 254-5 Kargil 260-2 Kigwema 580 Janki Chatti 433 Kota 148-9 Karla Caves 799 Killar 280 Japanese B encephalitis Kotagiri 1078 1209 Karnataka 53, 851-910, Kinnaur 292-7 Kottayam 966-7 852 Jari 302-3 Kisama Heritage Village Kovalam (Kerala) 949-53, accommodation 851 580 jeep safaris 950 climate 851 Kishtwar 280 Betla (Palamau) National Kovalam (Tamil Nadu) Park 533-4 festivals & events 853 Kishtwar-Killar-Keylong 1025 route 280 Jaldhapara Wildlife food 851 Kozhikode (Calicut) 993-5, Sanctuary 495 highlights 852 Kochi (Cochin) 976-90, 994 977, 978, 980, 984 Leh 233 travel seasons 851 Krishna 1134 accommodation 981-5 Spiti 345 Karsha 265 Kullu 306-7 activities 980 jewellery 1152-3 Kasar Devi 448-9 Kullu Valley 300 courses 981 Kashmir, see Jammu & Kuluk 558 drinking & nightlife Kashmir Kumarakom 967-8 985-6 Map Pages 000 Kashmir conflict 1123 Kumarakom Bird entertainment 986-7 Photo Pages 000 Kasol 304-5 Sanctuary 967-8 festivals & events 981 1235 Kumbakonam 1047-50, legal matters 1187-8 highlights 622 Anjuna 832 1048 Leh 229-44, 230, 234-5 travel seasons 621 Arpora 828 Kumbhalgarh 163-4 accommodation 233-8 626 Baga 828 Kumbhalgarh Wildlife activities 232-3 Madikeri (also known as Bengaluru (Bangalore) Sanctuary 163 drinking & nightlife 240 Mercara) 881-2 857 Kumily 968 food 238-40 Madras, see Chennai Central Market 579-80 Kunzum La 344 internet access 241 1008-9 Connemara Market 947 INDEX Kurseong 496-7 medical services 241 Madurai 1059-64, 1060 Delhi 93, 94, 94-5, 95, 96 Kurukshetra (Thanesar) shopping 240-1 magazines 1187 Hyderabad 926

-K  223-4 sights 229-32 804 Indore 661

Kushinagar 394-5,  M 395 tourist information 241 Mahabalipuram, see Jaipur 121 kushti 93 travel to/from 242-3 Mamallapuram Khwairamband Bazaar Kutch 724-33 583 travel within 244 960, 1135 Kolkata (Calcutta) Leh-Manali route 249 Mahabodhi Temple 525 457, 461 leopards Maharashtra 53, 772-808, L Kochi (Cochin) 979 Lachen 548-9 Chinnar Wildlife 773 Koraput 612, 613, 614 Lachung 547-8 Sanctuary 976 accommodation 772 climate 772 Mandu 669 Ladakh 12, 228-66, 12 Mt Abu Wildlife festivals & events 774 Mattancherry 979 Lahaul 340-51 Sanctuary 166 food 772 Mumbai (Bombay) 766 lakes LGBTI travellers 763, 1188 highlights 773 Mysuru (Mysore) 868 Ashtamudi Lake 958 Lhalung 350 travel seasons 772 Pushkar 141 1069 libraries Mahé 995 Rayagada 615 Chandratal (Moon Lake) Institut Français de 344 Pondichéry 1039 Maheshwar 670-2 Saturday Street Market (Aizud) 585 Chilika Lake 609-11 Nilgiri Library 1079 Majnu-ka-Tilla 85 SMSM Institute 947 Dal Lake 267-8 lighthouses Majuli Island 569-70 Markha Valley 248-50 Hem Kund 439-40 Alleppey Lighthouse 961 Malabar 943 massages 40-2 Jait Sagar 145 Thangassery Lighthouse Malana 303-4 958 Matha Amrithanandamayi Khecheopalri Lake 554 malaria 1208-9 Vizhinjam Lighthouse Mission 960 Lake Gangabal 276-7 Malayalis 943 949 Matheran 797-8 Lake Pichola 154 Malpe 892 256 Matho 245 Loktak Lake 584 Malvan 795-7 Lingaraj Mandir 596 Mathura 409-10, 409 Naini Lake 443 Mamallapuram (Mahabali- lions Matrimandir 1045 Nakki Lake 166 puram) 1025-30, 1027 Gir National Park & Wild- Mamallapuram Hill 1028 mausoleums, see tombs, Pangong Tso 253-4, 2 life Sanctuary 714 shrines & mausoleums Man 254 Ranmal Lake 721-2 Lion Safari Park 948 Mayabunder 1103 Manali 309-17, 310, 314 Rewalsar Lake 298 literature 1162, see also Mayapur 490-1 Mananthavadi 995 Saryolsar Lake 299 books McLeod Ganj 320-9, Mana Village 436 322 Sukhna Lake 203 Little Andaman 1103-4 measures 1187 572 Tso Moriri 254-5 Little Rann of Kachchh Mechuka 577 732-3 Mandarmani 487 Tsomgo (Changu) Lake media 1187 547 Loktak Lake 584 Mandawa 172-4 medical services 1208 Ward’s Lake 590 Lonar Meteorite Crater 783 Mandi 297-8 meditation 40 Lakshadweep 1001 Lonavla 798-9 Mandrem 837-8 Bodhgaya 527 Lamayuru 258-60 Long Island 1102 Mandu 665-70, 668 Chennai (Madras) 1011 Lamb’s Rock 1076 Losar 344 Mandvi 731-2 Delhi 80 language 18, 1107, 1148-50, Lothal 699-700 Mangalajodi 610 Dharamkot 331 1213-23 Mangaluru (Mangalore) Lucknow 397-402, 398 Eluru 934 language courses 1187 885-8, 886 lungi 1127 Goa 811 Darjeeling 502 Manikaran 305-6 Hyderabad 920 Delhi 80 583-4 Igatpuri 779 McLeod Ganj 326 M maps 1188 Machail 281 Jaipur 113 Mussoorie 431 Mapusa 821-3 Madhya Pradesh 52, 621- Leh 232 Varanasi 385 673 85, 622 Nagarjunakonda 934 Langza 347 Marine National Park 723-4 accommodation 621 802 lassi 389 Margao 840-2 climate 621 Rishikesh 415 Lauriya Nandangarh 523 markets & bazaars 22, festivals & events 623 Sri Ramana Ashram Lava 513 1151-8 food 621 1035 leatherwork 1153 Amritsar 218 1236 meditation continued Tashiding 557 Jama Masjid (Fatehpur activities 749-51 Sri Seshadri Swamigal Tawang Gompa 578 Sikri) 371 climate 734 Ashram 1035 Than 730 Jama Masjid (Mandu) courses 751-2 Meenakshi Amman Temple Tharpa Choling Gompa 667 drinking & nightlife 761-4 1059-60, 1165, 1164-5 510 Jama Masjid (Srinagar) entertainment 764-5 271 588-92 Thekchhok Gompa 248 festivals & events 737

INDEX INDEX 409 mehndi 1161 Thiksey Gompa 245-7 food 734, 756-61 Mehrangarh 17, 175-6, 17 Tso-Pema Ogyen Khanqah Shah-i-Hama- dan 270 highlights 735 Melaghar 588 Nyingmapa Gompa shopping 765-7 298 Mecca Masjid 914 M- (Melkote) 878 sights 737-49  Ugyen Sangnak Choling Nakhoda 461 M Mettupalayam 1076  Gompa 349 Rani Sipri’s Mosque 693 spas 751 misal pav 777 Urgeyling Gompa 578 Rani-na-Hazira 693 tourist information 767-8 584-6 Von Ngari Monastery Sayid’s Mosque tours 752 mobile phones 18, 1191-2 309 693 travel seasons 734 Modhera 700 Yiga Choling Gompa 501 Sidi Bashir Mosque 693 travel to/from 768-70 Mon 582-3 Yungdrung Gompa 258-9 Sunehri Masjid 61 travel within 770-1 monasteries Yungdrung Kundrakling Taj-ul-Masjid 647 walking tours 753, 753 Bhutia Busty Gompa 499 550 Mother Teresa 465 mundu 1127 Choskhor temple money 18, 19, 1188-90 Mother Teresa’s Mother- Munnar 972-6, 973, 2 complex 257 moneychangers 1189 house 457 Munsyari 451 Drikung Gompa monuments & statues Motihari 523 298 Murshidabad 491-2 Agrasen ki Baoli 69 motorcycle travel 1202-4 Druk Sangak Choling Murudeshwar 894 Gompa 501 Arjuna’s Penance 1027 hire 1202-3 Murud-Janjira 793-4 Dubdi Gompa 555 Bibi-qa- 779 Kochi (Cochin) 981 museums, see also Durpin Gompa 509 Buddha Park 550 purchase 1203 galleries Dzongsar Khyentse Buddha Statue on tours 1203-4 Anand Bhavan 405 Chökyi Lodrö Institute Hussain Sagar 920 mountain biking Anokhi Museum of Hand 334 914 Almora 447 Printing 126 Enchey Gompa 539 Chausath Yogini 602-3 Manali 312 Anthropological Museum 1090 Guru Ghantal Gompa Coronation Durbar Sikkim 537 Arakkal Museum 998 342 Site 67 Spiti 345 Archaeological Museum Guru Gompa 501 Dhauli 603 mountain railways (Fatehpur Sikri) 374-5 Hemis Gompa 247-8 Gandhi Memorial 1067 Darjeeling Himalayan Archaeological Museum Kardang Gompa 342 Gateway of India 738-9 Railway 507 (Khajuraho) 641 Mane Choekhorling Golgumbaz 907 Kangra Valley Toy Train Archaeological Museum Gompa 550 Ibrahim Rouza 908 332 (Mathura) 410 Matho 245 Kamaraj Memorial 1067 Kalka–Shimla Railway Archaeological Museum 291 Raj Ghat 67 (Sanchi) 654 426 Nilgiri Royal Gaitor 112 Archaeological Museum 1084, Ngadak Gompa 549 Sanchi 651, 653 16 (Sarnath) 392 mountaineering Old Ralang Gompa 550 Statue Archaeology Museum Palchen Choeling 1067 Darjeeling 501-2 (Thrissur) 991 Monastery 550 Vivekananda Memorial Ladakh 232 Assam State Museum Pemayangtse Gompa 552 1066-7 Manali 309, 312 561 Resum Gompa 558 Morjim 836-7 Spiti 345 Bagore-ki-Haveli 155 Rumtek Gompa 545-6 Morni Hills 211 Uttarkashi 437 Baroda Museum & Samten Choling Gompa mountains Picture Gallery 701 501 Ahmed Shah’s Mosque Himalayas 1174-5 Bhuri Singh Museum 337 Sanchi 654 693 Mt Abu 165-9, 166 Calico Museum of Shashur Gompa 342 Dilawar Khan’s Mosque Mt Arunachala 1035 Textiles 689 Sherabling Monastery 667 Car Museum 888 Mt Abu 165-9, 166 334 Fatehpuri Masjid 61-6 Central Asian Museum Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Spituk Gompa 231 (Leh) 229 Gaur 491 1084-5 Tabo Gompa 350 Central Museum (Jaipur) 745 Mulbekh 260 Tangyud Gompa 347 111 Jama Masjid (Agra) 361 Mumbai (Bombay) 13, 53, Central Tibetan Secre- Jama Masjid (Ah- 734-71, , , 735 738 740- tariat 323 medabad) 693 1, 746-7, 13 Map Pages 000 Jama Masjid (Delhi) 66-7, Chandigarh Architecture accommodation 734, Museum 206 Photo Pages 000 16, 1168 752-6 Chhatrapati Shivaji 1237 Maharaj Vastu Sangra- Khalsa Heritage Complex Prachina Cultural Centre Tribal Heritage Museum halaya 742-3 212 & Museum 195 451 Chitrali Museum 945 Krishnapuram Palace Puducherry Museum Tribal Museum 646-7 City Palace (Kota) 148 Museum 960 1039 Uttarayan Complex 489 City Palace Museum Lahaul-Spiti Tribal Pudukkottai Museum Vechaar Utensil Museum (Udaipur) 153 Museum 342 1058 692

Crafts Museum 74 Le Corbusier Centre Puthe Maliga Palace Vintage & Classic Car INDEX Don Bosco Museum of 203-4 Museum 944-5 Collection 156 Indigenous Cultures Lepcha Heritage Rail Museum 868 Vivekananda House 1009 589-90 Museum 511 Railway Museum 1055 Wayanad Heritage -M  Desert Cultural Centre & Living & Learning Design Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum 995 N  Museum 188 Centre (LLDC) Crafts Museum 801 music 1159-60 Museum 730 Dr Bhau Daji Lad Ramkatha Museum 403 Mussoorie 429-32, 430 Mumbai City Museum Lokayatan Folk Museum Rani Durgawati Museum Mysuru (Mysore) 867- 744-5 690 674 77, 872 Dr Ramnath A Podar Maharaja Sansar Chand Rashtrapati Bhavan Mysuru Palace 868, 870-1 Haveli Museum 169 Museum 332 Museum 71 Folk Art Museum 726 Marble Palace 463 Ratnagiri Museum 617 Forest Research Institute Maritime Museum 979 RKK Memorial Museum N Museum 426 Mattancherry Palace 980 961 Nabadwip 490-1 Fort Museum 1009 Mehrangarh Museum Devi Museum 579-83 Gandhi Memorial 175-6 1010 Museum 1061 Men-Tsee-Khang Sacred Heart Natural 880 Gandhi Smriti 71 Museum 324 Science Museum 1069 Nagarjunakonda 934-5 Goa Chitra 843-4 Morarka Haveli Museum Salar Jung Museum 914 Naggar 307-9 169 Goa State Museum 815 Sanskriti Museums 78-9 790-2 Museo Camera 102 Government Museum Sea Shell Museum 710 Nainital 443-6, 444-5 (Bengaluru) 857 Museum of Christian Shankar’s International Art 821 Nako 296-7 Government Museum Dolls Museum 67 Nakthan 305 (Chennai) 1005, Museum of Habitat 938 Sheesh Mahal 220 1008-9 Museum of History & 531 Shree Chhatrapati Shahu Naldehra 291-2 Government Museum Heritage 943-4 Museum 806 (Udaipur) 153-4 Museum of Kangra Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary SRC Museum of Indology 699 HAL Aerospace Museum Art 319 111 Namchi 549-50 & Heritage Centre 858 Museum of Tribal Arts & Sri Krishna Museum 223 Hall of Fame 231 Artefacts 597 Sri Pratap Singh 574 HEH The Nizam’s Nagarjunakonda Museum 272 Museum 934 Nameri National Park 567 Museum 914 State Academy of Tribal Himachal State Museum Namgyal Institute of Culture 586 Namgyal Institute of Tibetology 539 Tibetology 539 287-8 State Museum (Bhopal) Himalayan Mountaineer- Napier Museum 943 647 Naranag 276-7 ing Institute 500 National Bal Bhavan 67 State Museum Nasik 774-7, 775 Indian Museum 456 National Gandhi Mu- (Hyderabad) 915 national parks, reserves Memorial seum 67 Submarine Museum 935 & wildlife sanctuaries 1172, 1173 Museum 71 National Museum Sudha Cars Museum 917 (Delhi) 71 Indo-Portuguese Sulabh International 1075 Museum 977-8 National Rail Museum 74 Museum of Toilets 78 Arunachala Animal International Roerich National Research Cen- Sullivan Memorial 1078 Memorial Trust 307-8 tre on Camels 200 Sanctuary 1036 Survey of India Museum Bandhavgarh Tiger Jageshwar Archaeologi- Natural History Museum 426 cal Museum 449 (Chandigarh) 206 Reserve 678-80 Vivekananda Bandipur National Park Jai Vilas Palace & Scin- Naulakha Museum 719 Wandering Monk 878-80 dia Museum 626 NC Mehta Gallery 691 Exhibition 1067 Betla (Palamau) National Janapada Loka Folk Arts Nehru Memorial Mu- Tagore’s House 464 Museum 867 Park 533-4 seum 71-2 Taj Museum 358 Jayalakshmi Vilas Man- Netaji Bhawan 458-9 Bhitarkanika Wildlife sion Museum Complex Tea Museum 973 Sanctuary 618-20 Odisha State Maritime Temple Art Museum 868-9 Museum 616 Biligiri Ranganna Temple Joshi’s Museum of Min- 1060-1 Wildlife Sanctuary 879 Patan Patola Heritage Thar Heritage Museum iature Railway 801 Museum 700 Blackbuck National Kachchh Museum 726 188 Park 706 Prabhas Patan Museum Tibet Museum 321 Kerala Folklore Museum 713 Chinnar Wildlife 980 Toilet Garden 693 Sanctuary 976 1238 national parks, reserves Panna Tiger Reserve 645 Norbulingka Institute 333 Chowmahalla Palace 914 & wildlife sanctuaries Parambikulam Tiger Northeast States 52, 559- City Palace (Alwar) continued Reserve 972 92, 560 129-30 Corbett Tiger Reserve accommodation 559 City Palace (Jaipur) 440-3 680-1 climate 559 105-9 Dandeli 904 Periyar Wildlife festivals & events 561 City Palace (Kota) 148

INDEX INDEX Daroji Sanctuary 968, 970 food 559 City Palace (Udaipur) Sanctuary 902 153 Pobitora National Park highlights 560 Eravikulam National 566 Daria Daulat Bagh 877 travel seasons 559 Park 976 Rajaji Tiger Reserve Fatehpur Sikri 371-4, N- North Paravur 991  Gir National Park & 424-5 373-4, 629 P Wildlife Sanctuary Nubra Valley 250-3  Ranganathittu Bird Fort Palace 184-5 713-15 nurseries 512 Sanctuary 878 Gauhar Mahal 647 Govind Wildlife Sanctu- Ranthambhore National Hazarduari 491-2 ary & National Park Park 141-3 434 O Hindola Mahal 666-7 Sajjan Garh Wildlife observatories Great Himalayan Na- Sanctuary 156 Itachuna 490 tional Park 299, 301 Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 69 Sanjay Gandhi National Jaganmohan Palace 868 Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) Hemis National Park 248 Park 743 Jahaz Mahal 666 109-11 Jaldhapara Wildlife & Jai Vilas Palace 626 Observatory Hill 499 Sanctuary 495-6 National Park 131-3 Jal Mahal 112 Kanger Valley National Satkosia Tiger Odisha 52, 593-620, 594 Krishnapuram Palace Park 685 Sanctuary 603 accommodation 593 Museum 960 Kanha Tiger Reserve Similipal National Park climate 593 Lal Bagh Palace 659 676-8 619 festivals & events 595 Laxmi Vilas Palace 701 Kaziranga National Park food 593 Leh Palace 229 567-8 507 highlights 594 Maheshwar Palace 671 Keoladeo National Park Sultanpur Bird travel seasons 593 Mattancherry Palace 126-9 Sanctuary 224 819-21, 820 979-80 Khijadiya Bird Sultanpur National 1138 Mubarak Mandi 278 Sanctuary 723 Park 102 Omkareshwar 672-3 Mysuru Palace 868, Kumarakom Bird Sunderbans Tiger 870-1 Sanctuary 967-8 Reserve 486-7 Onam 24, 26 Royal Palace 245 Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Ooty (Udhagamandalam) Sanctuary 163 Reserve 792 1078-84, 1080 Padam Palace 292 Lion Safari Park 948 Thattekkad Bird opening hours 19, 1190 Padmanabhapuram Madhav National Park Sanctuary 975 Orchha 630-5, 632 Palace 951, 1069 626 Tholpetty 995 Orissa, see Odisha Prag Mahal 726 Malvan Marine Sanctu- Tiger Cave 1024 Osho 802 Raj Mahal 631 ary 796 Valley of Flowers Osian 183-4 Rajwada 659 Manas National Park 572 National Park 439 Royal Palace 1050-2 Marine National Park Wayanad Wildlife Sajjan Garh 155-6 723-4 Sanctuary 995 P Sharad Baug Palace 726 paan 1143 Mt Abu Wildlife White Desert 730 Stok 244 Sanctuary 166 Wild Ass Sanctuary 732 Pachmarhi 655-9, 656 Suraj Mahl’s Palace 130 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Navratri 24, 27, 694 Padum 263, 21 Tirumalai Nayak Palace 1084-5 Nawalgarh 169-71 Pahalgam 275 1061 Muthanga 995 Neermahal 588 painting 1154, 1160-2 Ujjayanta Palace 586 Nagarhole National Pakistan Park 880 Neil Island 1099-10 Nepal border crossings 183, 178 Nalsarovar Bird 220-1, 1197 Vijay Vilas Palace 731-2 Sanctuary 699 border crossings 390, travel to/from 1197 Palampet 930-1 Namdapha National 391, 396, 447, 494, palaces 20 Park 574 524, 1197, 1198 Palampur 333-4 Aga Khan Palace 801 Nameri National Park travel to/from 1197, 1198 Palitana 706-8 567 New Jalpaiguri 492-5 Aina Mahal 725-6 palloo 1127 Neyyar Wildlife newspapers 1187 Amar Mahal 278 Palolem 846-9, 847, 14, Sanctuary 948 Ney 256 Bangalore Palace 857 890 Nilgiri Hills 1079 Bawali 490 Panaji (Panjim) 813-19, Baz Bahadur’s Palace 814 1084, 16 667 Panamik 253 Map Pages 000 Nilgiris 1077 Bundi Palace 145 Pandua 491 Photo Pages 000 Nimmu 255-6 Chitrasala 145 Pangi Valley 343-4 1239 Pangong Tso 253-4, 2 Pattan Valley 343-4 festivals & events 203 Hinduism 1133-6 Panna Tiger Reserve 645 Pavagadh 703-4 food 201 Islam 1136-7 paragliding 1001 highlights 202 Jainism 1139 Arambol 838 pehlwari 93 travel seasons 201 Sikhism 1137-8 Bir 334 Pelling 552-4, 553 Puri 604-8, 606 tribal religions 1140 Kalimpong 511-12 Pemako 577 Pushkar 136-41, 137 Zoroastrianism 1140 Lonavla 798 Pench Tiger Reserve 680-1 Pushkar Camel Fair 138 Residency 397 INDEX Manali 312 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary Pusphagiri Ruins 617-18 rest houses 1183 Varkala 955 968, 970 Rewalsar Lake 298

-parasailing 487 permits rhinoceros, one-horned  P Parasnath Hill 532 Corbett Tiger Reserve Q 567, 1169  S Quilon, see Kollam Paravati Valley 300 441 rice 1141 parks & gardens Kinnaur 293 Rinchenpong 558 Badamvaer 272 Ladakh 252 R Rishikesh 414-21, 416 Botanical Gardens Spiti 345 rabies 1209 rock climbing (Kolkata) 465 phonecards 1192-3 Rabongla 550-1 Hampi 898 Botanical Gardens photography 1179 radio 1187 Manali 309 (Ooty) 1079 Phuktal 266 rafting Rohtang La 341 Bougainvillea Garden Phyang 255 Leh 232-3 Ross Island 1092 206 pilgrimage 1128-9 Manali 312-13 roti 1141 Bryant Park 1069 Pin Valley 348-9 Nubra Valley 250 Roy, Arundhati 967 Chitralekha Udyan 566 Pithoragarh 451 Orchha 632 Royal Enclave 666-7 Floating Gardens & Lake planetariums 458 Rishikesh 417 ruins 20-1, see also archae- Villages 268 planning, see also individ- Raghurajpur 604 ological sites Flower Exhibition Centre ual regions Raipur 681-2 Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 539 budgeting 19 Rajaji Tiger Reserve 424-5 135 Horticultural Gardens calendar of events 24-8 Bavikonda 937 466 Rajasthan 50, 104-200, children, travel with 47-9 106-7 Bhangarh 132 Khusru Bagh 405 India basics 18-19 accommodation 104 Dhamekh & Mon- Lloyd Botanical Gardens astery Ruins 392 501 India’s regions 50-4 climate 104 Feroz Shah Kotla 67 Lodi Gardens 70 internet resources 19 festivals & events 112 itineraries 29-33 highlights 106-7 Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Maidan 457-8 Madrasa 910 train travel 34-5 travel seasons 104 Mananchira Square 993 Mahanavami-diiba 897 travel seasons 18, 24-8 Rajgir 529-31 Mehtab Bagh 358 Mehrauli Archaeological trekking 36-7 Rajkot 720 Mughal Gardens (Delhi) Park 101 volunteering 43-6 Ram Raja Temple 631 71 Pusphagiri Ruins 617-18 plants 1172-3 1135 Mughal Gardens 101 (Srinagar) 269 Poa Mecca 565-6 Rambha 611 Rabdentse 552 Nek Chand Rock Garden Pobitora National Park 566 Rameswaram 1064-5 570-1 203, 207 police 1188 Rampur 292-3 Thotlakonda 937 Pinjore Gardens 211 politics 1106-8 Ramtek 792 Zenana Enclosure 897 Rabindra Sarovar 464-5 Dravidian 1009 Ranakpur 164-5 Rumbak 250 Ram Bagh 213 Tamil 1009 Ranchi 531-3 Rumtek 545-6 Rao Jodha Desert Rock pollution 1174, 1175, 1210 Rangat 1100-2 Park 176-7 Pondicherry, see Rangdum 263 Sim’s Park 1076 Puducherry 1128 S Theosophical Society polo 1132 Rani Abbakka 889 Sabarimala 968 1010 Poovar 953 Ranthambhore National 690 Parsis 756 population 1107, 1176 Park 141-3 safaris 13 Partition 1122-4 Port Blair 1090-3, 1091 Ravangla (Rabongla) 550-1 Bandhavgarh Tiger Parvati Valley 302-6 postal services 1190 Raxaul 523-4 Reserve 678-9 Pasighat 576 Pratapgad Fort 807 Rayagada 615-16 Bandipur National Park passports 1193-4, 1195 878-9 public holidays 1190-1 Red Fort 60-1, 62-3, 62-3 Patan 700 Gir National Park & Puducherry (Pondicherry) Rekong Peo 295 Pathankot 221 Wildlife Sanctuary 17, 1037-44, 1038 religion 1107, 1126-7, 714-15 Patiala 219-20 1133-40 Pune 799-806, 800 Jabalpur 674 Patna 518-22, 520 Buddhism 932, 1138-9 Punjab 50, 201-23, 202 Kanha Tiger Reserve 676 Patnem 849-50 Christianity 1139-14 accommodation 201 Osian 184 906 climate 201 etiquette 1137 1240 safaris continued Shargol 260 Neil Island 1099 Mamallapuram (Mahaba- Pachmarhi 657-8 Shatrunjaya 707 Wandoor 1094 lipuram) 1027 Pench Tiger shawls 307, 1155 snowboarding Mulki 887 Reserve 680 Shekhawati 169-74, 170 Gulmarg 276, 28 Puducherry (Pondi- cherry) 1040 safety 582, 1178-9, 1191 Shey 245 Manali 309, 313 Varkala 955 animals 1171 Shillong 588-91, 599 snow leopards 245

INDEX INDEX bhang lassi 1191 Suru Valley 262-3 Shimla 283-91, 286-7 Solang Nullah 318-19 synagogues Delhi 96-7 1134 solo travellers 1181 Chennamangalam 991 drinking water 1178, 1211 Shivneri 806 Somnath 713

S- Keneseth Eliyahoo  drugs 1178 shopping 1151-8, see Somnathpur 878

T Synagogue 743  food 1178, 1210 also markets & bazaars Sonamarg 277-8 Pardesi Synagogue 980 hitching 1201 books 1156 spa treatments 40-2, 489 internet resources 1192 carpets 1151-2 spice farms 821, 969 Kashmir 267 haggling 1152 spices 1141, 1157 T Kullu Valley 303 jewellery 1152-3 Spiti 340-1, 344-51 Tabo 350-1 marijuana 302 paintings 1154 sports 1131-2 Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Parvati Valley 303 saris 1155-6 Sravanabelagola 885 Reserve 792 road 1203 shawls 1155 Sree Vallabha Temple 968 11, 354-8, 359, 367, 368, 7, 10-1, 356-7 scams 1178-9 woodcarving 1157 Sri Kalahasti 940 Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai solo travellers 1181 shrines, see tombs, shrines Sri Math 1010 737-8 trekking 37 & mausoleums Srinagar 267-75, 268 Takthog 248 Varanasi 383 Sikh temples Srirangapatna (Srirangapa- 1217-18 women travellers 1180-1 Baba Atal Tower 213 tnam) 877-8 Tamil Nadu 54, 1002-85, Sagar Island 486 Central 278 St Mary’s Island 892 1003 Sakti 248 Golden Temple 17, 212-13, St Thomas’ Pole 1010 accommodation 1002 Salawas 183 17, 1166-7 statues, see monuments & climate 1002 salwar kameez 1127 Gurdwara Bangla Sahib statues festivals & events 1004 Sam Sand Dunes 193 75-6 step-wells Guru Gobind Singh highlights 1003 Sanchi 650-5, 652, 1168 Adalaj Vav 699 Gurdwara 298 history 1004-5 Sangam 404-5 Rani-ki-Vav 700 Guru Nanak Jhira Sahib temples 1002, 1034 Sangla 294 Stok 244-5 910 travel seasons 1002 Sangla Valley 294-5 street food 757 Kesgarh Sahib 212 Tandi 341-2 Sankaram 937 stupas, see also Buddhist Sisganj Gurdwara 61 Tanjore 1050-3, 1051 Sarahan 293-4 temples Sri Guru Nanak Ji Amaravathi 933 Tashiding 557-8 saris 1128, 1155-6 Gurdwara 305 Dhamekh Stupa & Mon- Tashigang 347 Sariska Tiger Reserve & Sikhism 1137-8 National Park 131-3 astery Ruins 392 Tawang Valley 578-9 Sikkim 52, 535-58, 536 Gomang Stupa 230 taxis 1201-2 Sarnath 392-3, 392 climate 535 tea 504 Saspol 257 Great Stupa 650 festivals & events 537 Satapada 609-10 Kesariya Stupa 523 tea estates 14 food 543 Satkosia Tiger Sanctuary Ramabhar Stupa 394 Ambootia Tea Estate 496 highlights 536 603 Sanchi 653 Connemara Tea Factory travel seasons 535 satras 570 Shanti Stupa 230, 12 968-9 Siliguri 492-5 Saurashtra 704-24 Vishwa Shanti Stupa 529 Darjeeling 504 Similipal National Park 619 scams 368, 383, 390, Sullivan, John 1078 Happy Valley Tea Estate Singalila National Park 507 501 1178-9 Sultanbatheri 995 Sinhagad 806 Highfield Tea Estate 1076 Senji 1037 102 Sirpur 682-3 Kausani Tea Estate 450 Serampore 487 Sun Temple 608-9 570-1 Makaibari 496 Sevagram 792-3 Sumur 253 skiing Temi Tea Garden 551-2 Sham 256-7 Sunauli 395-7 Gulmarg 276, Tegar 253 Shanti Stupa 230, 12 28 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve Shantimalai Handicrafts Manali 309, 313 486-7 53, 911-31, 912 Development Society sloth bears 371, 902 surfing 1025 climate 911 1037 slums 744 Agonda 845 festivals & events 913 Shantiniketan 488-90 smoking 1187 Arambol (Harmal) 839 food 911 snorkelling Covelong Point 1025 highlights 912 Diglipur 1102, 1103 Gokarna 894 travel seasons 911 Map Pages 000 Havelock Island 1095-7 Kovalam 949 telephone services 18, Photo Pages 000 Long Island 1102 Little Andaman 1104 1191-3 1241 temples 1164-8, see Timishgan 256-7 classes 34 Shimla 288 also Buddhist temples, tipping 1189 Darjeeling Himalayan Singalila Ridge Trek Hindu temples, Jain Tirthan Valley 299-301, 300 Railway 507 507-9 temples, Sikh temples Tiruchirappalli, see Trichy Konkan Railway 795 Spiti 345 tempos 1201 Tirumala 938-40 toy trains 332, 495, 507 Mandir 439 textiles 1155-7 Tirupati 938-40 transport Wayanad region 995-6

Tezpur 566-7 INDEX Tiruvannamalai 1034-7 language 1216, 1218 West Bengal 485 Thanesar 223-4 toilets 1193 943 Yuksom 555 Thanggu 548 tombs, shrines & mauso- travel to/from India 1195-7 Zanskar 258-9, Thanjavur (Tanjore) 1050- -leums travel within India 263, 264  T

U  1051 ,3 Akbar’s Mausoleum 360 1197-205 Zanskar to Darcha 266 Tharangambadi 1047 Badshah Tomb 270-1 trekking 36-7 Trichur, see Thrissur Thattekkad Bird Sanctu- Almora 447 Trichy (Tiruchirappalli) ary 975 Bahu Begum Ka Maqbara 402 Anmu to Phuktal 266 1053-7, 1054, 1056 theft 1179 Bara Imambara 397 Bhagsu 330 Trimbak 779 theyyam 999 Chhatris 631 Chamba Valley 338, 586-8 Thiksey 245-7 Chini-ka-Rauza 361 339-40 Trivandrum, see Thiruvananthapuram Chandrisilla Peak 439 Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) 941, Chota Imambara 397-8 Chitkul 294 Tso Kar 255 943-8, 944 Dargah of Khwaja Muin- ud-din Chishti 133-4 Darjeeling 501 Tso Moriri 254-5 Thoh Tim 590 Ellangudipatti 1058 Dehra Dun 426 Tsomgo (Changu) Thrissur (Trichur) 991-3, Gumbaz 877 Dharamkot 330-1 Lake 547 992 Gaumukh Glacier Trek Tsopta 548 Thukye (Tso Kar) 255 Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah 69-70 433-4 Tsuglagkhang Complex Tibet Hoshang Shah’s Tomb Great Himalayan 321, 323 border crossings 538 667 National Park 299 tuberculosis 1209 travel to/from 1196 Humayun’s Tomb 69 Hamta Pass 318 turtles 618, 1102 Tibetan arts 333 Itimad-ud-Daulah 360-1 Har-ki-Dun Valley Trek Turtuk 252-3 Tibetan exiles 325 Khan-i-Khanan’s 434 Tuting 577 Tibetan medicine 326 Tomb 75 Homestay Trail 348 TV 1187 tiffin-wallahs 759 Mahabat Maqbara 717 Indrahar La 330 typhoid 1209 tigers 1169, 1170 Mausoleum of Ahmed Joshimath 437-8 Anamalai Tiger Reserve Shah 693 Kalimpong 512, 513 U 1075 Moula Ali Dargah 919-20 Khangchendzonga Trek Udaigiri Caves 655 Corbett Tiger Reserve Naqshband Sahib 271-2 556-7 440-3 Udaipur (Rajasthan) 152- Paigah Tombs 919 Kodaikanal (Kodai) 1070, Bandhavgarh Tiger 63, 154 Qutb Shahi Tombs 919 1072 Reserve 678-80 accommodation 157-9 Ram Rai Darbar 426 Kuari Pass Trek 434-5 Kanha Tiger Reserve activities 156 Safdarjang’s Tomb 75 Ladakh 258-9, 264 676-8 courses 156 Sheikh Chehli’s Tomb Lake Gangabal 276-7 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve drinking & nightlife 160 223 Leh 233 1084-5 emergencies 161 Shiva Shrine 1024 Manali 309, 313 Panna Tiger Reserve 645 entertainment 160-1 Taj Mahal 11, 354-8, 359, Markha Valley 248-50 Parambikulam Tiger festivals & events 157 Reserve 972 367, 368, 7, 10-11, McLeod Ganj 324-5 food 159-60 Pench Tiger Reserve 356-7 Milam Glacier Trek 435 internet access 161 680-1 Tiger Cave 1024 Mt Abu 167 medical services 161 Rajaji Tiger Reserve Vaishno Devi Shrine 281 Munnar 973 shopping 161 424-5 Vazir’s Mausoleum Mussoorie 430-1 sights 153-6 Ranthambhore National 717-18 Naggar 308 tourist information 162 Park 142 Venugopal Shrine 1053 Ooty (Udhagamandalam) Sariska Tiger Reserve & tourist information 1193 1080 tours 156-7 National Park 131-3 tours Palampur 333 travel to/from 162 Satkosia Tiger motorcycle 1203-4 Palolem 846 travel within 162-3 Sanctuary 603 Northeast 564 Parasnath Hill 532 Udaipur (Tripura) 588 Sunderbans Tiger touts 1179 Pindari Glacier Trek 435 Udayagiri Caves 597-8 Reserve 486-7 train travel 16, 34-5, 1204- Pin-Parvati 304 Udhagamandalam 1078-84, Tadoba-Andhari Tiger 5, see also mountain 1080 Reserve 792 Ravangla railways (Rabongla) 551 Udupi 889-92 Tiger Cave 1024 Araku Valley 938 Rishikesh 417-18 Ujjain 663-5, 664-5 time 18, 1193 booking 34-5 Sham 256-7 Unakoti 588 1242 Uttar Pradesh 51, 376-411, vikrams 1201 festivals & events 485 Yapola Valley 257-8 378-9 Visakhapatnam 935-7 food 483 yoga 23, 38-9, 42 accommodation 376 visas 18, 1193-4 highlights 484 Arambol (Harmal) 838 climate 376 1133-4 travel seasons 483 Bengaluru (Bangalore) festivals & events 377 Vishwanath Temple 380-1 1068-85 858 food 376 volunteering 43-6 whisky 867 Chennai (Madras) 1011

INDEX INDEX highlights 378 Assagao 832-3 Wild Ass Sanctuary 732 Delhi 80 travel seasons 376 Goa 843 wildlife 13, 1169-17, see Dharamkot 331 Uttarakhand 51, 412-51, 413 Hyderabad 920 also national parks, Goa 811, 833

U- accommodation 412 Keystone Foundation reserves & wildlife Jaipur 113 

Z sanctuaries, individual  climate 412, 414 1078 Kalimpong 512 species festivals & events 414 Kolkata (Calcutta) 467 Kolkata (Calcutta) 467 books 1171 food 412 Mapusa 822 Leh 232 endangered species 1171 highlights 413 McLeod Ganj 325 Lonavla 798 internet resources 1170 travel seasons 412 Puri 605 Madurai 1061 volunteering 46 Uttarkashi 437 Varanasi 383, 385 Mandrem 838 wine 778, 867, 1147 Vrindavan 410-11, 411 McLeod Ganj 324 women in India 1129-13 Mumbai (Bombay) 749, women travellers 1180-1 V 751-2 vacations 1190-1 women’s health 1212 W Mysuru (Mysore) 874 vaccinations 1206, 1207 Wakha 260 woodcarving 1157 Puducherry (Pondi- Vadodara (Baroda) 701-3, walking tours 1061-2 World Heritage Sites cherry) 1040, 1041 702 Ahmedabad (Amdavad) Ajanta 12, 787-90, 788, Pushkar 138 694 Vagator 833-6, 834 12, 629 Rishikesh 415-16 Vaishali 522-3 Bengaluru (Bangalore) Anegundi 903 858 Udaipur 156 Valley of Flowers National Champaner 704 Varanasi 383, 385 Park 439-40 Chennai (Madras) 1011 Chhatrapati Shivaji Varkala 955 1075 Delhi 79-80 Terminus 739, 742 Yuksom 554-6 Varanasi 14, 377-91, , Hyderabad 920 Darjeeling Himalayan 380 Yumthang Valley 548 384, 14 Jaipur 114 Railway 507 accommodation 386-8 Kolkata (Calcutta) 468 Elephanta Island 749 drinking & nightlife 389 Mumbai (Bombay) 752, Ellora 784-7, 785, 21 Z entertainment 389 753, 753 Fatehpur Sikri 371-5, Zamorin dynasty 993 food 388-9 Orchha 631-2 373-4, 629 Zangla 265 shopping 389-90 Udaipur 157 Hampi 11, 842, 896-902, Zanskar 263-7 sights 380-3 Wandoor 1093-4 898, 900, 11 ziplines 178 tourist information 390 Wankaner 719 Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) Ziro Valley 574-5 tours 385-6 Warangal 930-1 109-11 zoos travel to/from 390 water, drinking 1178, 1211 Kalka–Shimla Railway 291 Alipore Zoo 466 travel within 391 water sports 1064 Keoladeo National Park Himalayan Zoological waterfalls 126-9 Park 539 Varkala 953-7, 954, 891 Chitrakote Falls 685 Khajuraho 15, 635-45, Madras Crocodile Bank Vashisht 317-18, 310 Dudhsagar Falls 813 636, 15, 628, 638-9 1024 vegan travellers 1143 Hampi Waterfalls 897 Nilgiri Mountain Railway Mysuru Zoo 869 vegetarian travellers 1143 1084, Jog Falls 892 16 Nandankanan Zoological Vellore 1032-3 Pattadakal 906 Park 603 Nohkalikai Falls 592 Veraval 712 Pavagadh 703-4 National Zoological Phamrong Falls 557 Viceregal Lodge 287 Sun Temple 608-9 Gardens 74-5 Vasudhara Waterfall 436 Victoria Memorial 455-6 Sunderbans Tiger Padmaja Naidu Him- Wayanad Region 995-8, viewpoints Reserve 486-7 alayan Zoological 996 1079-80 Taj Mahal 11, 354-8, 359, Park 500 Wayanad Wildlife Dolphin’s Nose 1076 367, 368, 7, 10-11, Zoological Gardens Sanctuary 995 (Thiruvananthpuram) Lamb’s Rock 1076 356-7 weather 18, 24-8, see 943 Vijapura (Bijapur) 907-9, also individual regions Valley of Flowers Na- tional Park 439-40 Zoroastrianism 1140 908 weights 1187 Vijayawada 931-3 West Bengal 52, 483-515, 484 Y accommodation 483 Yamunotri 433 Map Pages 000 climate 483 Yangthang 256 Photo Pages 000 1243 NOTES 1244 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1245

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book Anna Kaminski Odisha, Gujarat For as long as Anna has been travelling in India, she’s been en- chanted and exasperated by the country in equal measure, and never ever bored. This trip was no exception. Cons? The demonetisation crisis. Pros? Exploring two vastly different corners of the country. Highlights included the ancient ar- chitecture of Ahmedabad, spending time in traditional villages in Odisha’s tribal country, lion-spotting in Sasan Gir National Park and witnessing first-hand the centuries-old craft kept alive in the villages of Kachchh.

Bradley Mayhew Bihar & Jharkhand, West Bengal & Darjeeling Bradley has been writing guide- books for 20 years now. He started travelling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is the co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one retracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s ten most scenic long-distance trails.

Iain Stewart Karnataka, Telangana & Andhra Pradesh Iain’s trained as a journalist and worked as reporter and restaurant critic in London in the 1990s. He started writing guide- books in 1997 and has penned more than 60 titles for destinations as diverse as Ibiza and Cambodia. For Lonely Planet, Iain’s worked on books including Mexico, Indonesia, Croatia, Vietnam, India, Sri Lanka and Central America. Other passions include tennis, scuba and freediving. He’ll consider working anywhere there’s a palm tree or two and a beach of a generally sandy persuasion. Home is Brighton, UK, within firing range of the city’s south-facing horizon. He tweets at @iaintravel.

Contributing Writer Joe Bindloss wrote the History and India Today chapters. John Noble Himachal Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh & Chattisgarh John has been travelling since his teens and doing so as a Lonely Planet writer since the 1980s. The number of LP titles he’s written or co-written is well into three figures, covering a somewhat random selection of countries scattered across the globe, predominantly ones where Spanish, Russian or English are spoken (usually alongside numerous local languages). He still gets as excited as ever about heading out on the road to un- familiar experiences, people and destinations, especially remote, off-the-beaten-track ones. Above all, he loves mountains, from the English Lake District to the Himalaya. See his pics on Instagram: @johnnoble11.

Kevin Raub Mumbai, Maharashtra Kevin Raub grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone mag- azines. Being a pursuer of hops himself, he was all too happy to put Kingfisher in his rearview drinking mirror and immerse himself in Mumbai’s exploding craft beer scene for this edition of the India guide. This is Kevin’s 40th Lonely Planet guide. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad). To learn more about Kevin, check out www.lonelyplanet.com/members/kraub.

Sarina Singh Andaman Islands, Plan & Understand sections After finishing a business degree in her hometown of Melbourne, Sarina went to India to pursue a corporate train- eeship before working as a journalist. After five years she returned to Australia and completed postgraduate journalism qualifications before authoring Lonely Planet’s first edition ofRajasthan . Apart from numerous Lonely Planet books she has written for a raft of other publications and has been a scriptwriter and expert commentator. Sarina is also the author of Polo in India as well as India: Essential Encounters. Her award-nominated documentary premiered at the prestigious Melbourne International Film Festival before screening internationally.

Michael Benanav Uttar Pradesh, Uttarakhand When Michael was young, his father made the mis- take of handing him a biography of Lawrence of Arabia, along with adventure novels like Around the World in 80 Days. Something was sparked as this book- wormish boy over-identified with the main characters in these tales. Today, he is a veteran traveller, writer, and photographer, who loves exploring places far from beaten tourist trails. He’s authored three non-fiction books (set on three different continents) and writes and shoots for major publications. He also founded Traditional Cultures Project, which documents indigenous cultures around the world. To see some of his work, visit www.michaelbenanav.com.

Mark Elliott Jammu & Kashmir (including Ladakh), Sikkim British-born travel writer Mark Elliott has lived and worked on five continents, authoring or contributing to more than 60 books. He has been visiting the subcontinent since a 1982 trip which lined his stomach for all eventualities. While delighting in India’s full rainbow of cultures, he’s especially drawn to the cool air, magnificent mountains and spiritual warmth of the Himalayan regions whether sharing sufi secrets in Srinagar, mumbling man- tras in Ladakh or being dazzled by Sikkim’s larger than life mega-temples/statues.

Paul Harding Goa, Kerala As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Iceland, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indone- sia, New Zealand, Finland and – his home patch – Australia. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Abigail Blasi Delhi, Plan & Survival sections A freelance travel writer, Abigail has lived and worked in London, Rome, Hong Kong, and Copenhagen. Lonely Planet have sent her to India, Egypt, Tunisia, Mauritania, Mali, Italy, Portugal, Malta and around Brit- ain. She writes regularly for newspapers and magazines, such as the Independent, the Telegraph, and Lonely Planet Traveller. She has three children and they often come along for the ride. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram: @abiwhere

Lindsay Brown Rajasthan Lindsay started travelling as a young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and is- land waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. On becom- ing a freelance writer and photographer he has co-authored more than 30 Lonely Planet guides to Australia, Bhutan, India, Nepal, Pakistan and Papua New Guinea.

Anirban Mahapatra Punjab & Haryana, Kolkata, West Bengal & Darjeeling, Northeast States Ever since he gave up his journalist day job in 2009, Anirban Mahapatra has been travelling across the farthest extents of India on professional assignments as a travel writer and documentary filmmaker. A Lonely Planet writer since 2007, he has so far worked on five consecutive editions of the India guidebook, mostly specialising in destinations in east and . When not socialising with tribal chiefs over rice beer in Meghalaya or hiking along jungle trails in primeval Arunachal Pradesh, he cools his heels at his studio in Kolkata, conveniently located near some of the city’s choicest pubs and restaurants.

Isabella Noble Tamil Nadu English-Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella has been wandering the globe since her first round-the-world trip as a one-year-old. Having grown up in a whitewashed Andalucian village, she is a Spain specialist travel journalist, but also writes extensively about India, Thailand, the UK and beyond for Lonely Planet, the Daily Telegraph and others. Isabella has co-written Lonely Planet guides to Spain and Andalucía, and contributed to India, South India, Thailand, Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and Great Britain, and authored Pocket Phuket. Find Isabella on Twitter and Instagram (@isabellamnoble).

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