Stockholm ™ dayBYday 2nd Edition
by Mary Anne Evans Contents
12 Favorite Moments 1 1 The Best Full-Day Tours 5 The Best in One Day 6 The Best in Two Days 12 The Best in Three Days 18 2 The Best Special-Interest Tours 23 Stockholm & the Sea 24 Kungliga Slottet 28 Art & Design 32 Stockholm for Foodies 36 Drottningholm 40 Winter in Stockholm 44 Stieg Larsson’s Millennium Tour 48 Stockholm with Kids 52 3 The Best Neighborhood Walks 57 Gamla Stan & Riddarholmen 58 Djurgården 62 Ladugårdsgärdet 66 Eastern Södermalm 70 West Södermalm & Långholmen 74 Östermalm 78 Norrmalm & Vasastaden 82 Skeppsholmen 86 4 The Best Shopping 89 Shopping Best Bets 90 Stockholm Shopping A to Z 93 5 Stockholm Outdoors 101 Skansen 102 Hagaparken 106 6 The Best Dining 109 Dining Best Bets 110 Stockholm Dining A to Z 113 7 The Best Nightlife 123 Nightlife Best Bets 124 Stockholm Nightlife A to Z 127 8 The Best Arts & Entertainment 133 Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 136 Arts & Entertainment A to Z 137 9 The Best Lodging 141 Lodging Best Bets 144 Stockholm Lodging A to Z 145 10 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 153 Sigtuna 154 Fjäderholmarna 158 Vaxholm 160 The Savvy Traveler 163 Before You Go 164 Getting There 167 Getting Around 169 Fast Facts 170 Stockholm: A Brief History 174 Stockholm’s Architecture 176 Useful Phrases 177 Index 178 Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England. Telephone (+44) 1243 779777. Email (for orders and customer service enquiries): cs-books@ wiley.co.uk. Visit our Home Page on www.wiley.com All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except under the terms of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 or under the terms of a license issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency Ltd, Saffron House, 6-10 Kirby Street, London EC1N 8TS, UK, without the permission in writing of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England, or emailed to [email protected], or faxed to (+44) 1243 770620. Designations used by companies to distinguish their products are often claimed as trademarks. All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names, service marks, trademarks or registered trade- marks of their respective owners. The Publisher is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative infor- mation in regard to the subject matter covered. It is sold on the under- standing that the Publisher is not engaged in rendering professional services. If professional advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional should be sought. Editorial Director: Kelly Regan Production Manager: Daniel Mersey Commissioning Editor: Fiona Quinn Development Editor: Fiona Quinn Project Editor: Hannah Clement Photo Research: Cherie Cincilla, Richard H. Fox, Jill Emeny Cartography: Simonetta Giori Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats and by print-on-demand. Some content that appears in standard print versions of this book may not be available in other formats. For more information about Wiley products, visit us at www.wiley.com. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978-1-119-97002-6 (pbk), ISBN 978-1-119-97260-0 (ebk), ISBN 978-1-119-97037-8 (ebk), ISBN 978-1-119-97036-1 (ebk) Typeset by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Printed and bound in China by RR Donnelley 5 4 3 2 1 A Note from the Editorial Director
Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.
Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.
Stockholm is a city of surprises. Take a boat trip around the 14 islands or out to the archipelago, wander through the past in the winding medi- eval streets of Gamla Stan then shop for the best contemporary Scandi- navian design. And don’t forget to savor the new Nordic cooking and drink an acquavit at midnight looking out over the Baltic. Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experience—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers.
The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and res- taurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wild- est nightlife—it’s all here.
Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your com- ments our way at [email protected], and we’ll pass them on.
Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime.
Warm regards,
Kelly Regan, Editorial Director Frommer’s Travel Guides vi About the Author After co-writing learned volumes on Japanese prints and guitars, Mary Anne Evans turned to her more immediate surroundings and became one of the leading travel writers on London and Britain, particularly on restaurants. Several guide books and many magazine articles later, Europe beckoned. Stockholm has always been close to her heart as she is married to a Finn and has spent many happy holidays in Stockholm and Finland.
Acknowledgments My special thanks to photographer Ossi Laurila for his wonderful pictures, and to Sylvie Kjellin and Johan Tegel at the Stockholm Visitors Board and Philippa Sutton at Visit Sweden for all their sound advice and help.
Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use a = icon to point out the best bets for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet P.
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard vii Travel Resources at Frommers.com Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, www.frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car- rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.
Advisory & Disclaimer Travel information can change quickly and unexpectedly, and we strongly advise you to confirm important details locally before traveling, including information on visas, health and safety, traffic and transport, accommodation, shopping and eating out. We also encourage you to stay alert while traveling and to remain aware of your surroundings. Avoid civil disturbances, and keep a close eye on cameras, purses, wallets and other valuables.
While we have endeavored to ensure that the information contained within this guide is accurate and up-to-date at the time of publication, we make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose. We accept no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omissions, or for any inconvenience, loss, damage, costs or expenses of any nature whatsoever incurred or suffered by anyone as a result of any advice or information contained in this guide.
The inclusion of a company, organization or Website in this guide as a service provider and/or potential source of further information does not mean that we endorse them or the information they provide. Be aware that information provided through some Websites may be unreliable and can change without notice. Neither the publisher or author shall be liable for any damages arising herefrom.
How to Contact Us In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please e-mail: [email protected] or write to:
Frommer’s Stockholm Day by Day, 2nd Edition John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River St., Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
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Previous page: The waterfront. 3 ou can just sit back and look at the views over one of the 12 Favorite Yworld’s most beautiful cities. Alternatively, go back to the Middle Ages on a stroll through Gamla Stan, discover Stockholm’s exciting new cooking, row a boat along a tree-lined canal in summer, or skate on the sea in winter. Stockholm is a city for all seasons. Moments Here are some of my favorite things to do in Sweden’s beautiful and elegant capital.
1 Slipping through Stockholm feel you’ve stepped back four centu- on a boat. Getting on a boat and ries. Then walk down narrow going anywhere—around the main Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, the 90cm islands, out to the Baltic Sea archi- (less than 3 ft) wide street where pelago, or through the waterways the drainpipes cling crazily to the onto Lake Mälaren—is the first thing peeling, damp walls. See p 9. I do when I arrive in Stockholm. If 5 Shopping for a new look. you take the trip in winter, the There’s something about the strong sound of ice breaking replaces the shapes of furniture conceived by cries of gulls. See p 7. the Scandinavian icons of modern 2 Hiring a boat and taking to the design that makes me want to trans- waters. The sea and Lake Mälaren fill form my house. So I always spend up with boats in the summer. You time in Jacksons and Modernity. can canoe, sail, zip up and down in a They stock mainly collectors’ pieces; motorboat, or just paddle. I love hir- for something I can afford (and take ing a rowboat from Djurgårdsbrons home), I go to Design Torget and 10 Sjocafé with friends, getting a picnic Gruppen. See p 89. and rowing along the canal that 6 Sampling the new Swedish separates Ladugårdsgärdet from cooking. Many of Stockholm’s Djurgården. We park the boat and have an alfresco feast. See p 7. The medieval streets of Gamla Stan. 3 Walking into the Vasamuseet. No matter how many times I visit this museum, the hairs on the back of my neck always rise when I walk in from the bright sunlight to be confronted by this huge 17th-cen- tury wooden warship, raised from the dead and permanently moored in its own building. Go when the crowds are few and you can feel the ghosts of dead sailors as you pass the gun decks and gaze up at the ornately carved prow. See p 8. 4 Wandering through the medi- eval streets of Gamla Stan. This may be Stockholm’s most visited area, but catch it early in the morn- ing when the light filters through the narrow alleyways and the shutters on the houses are still closed—you 4 young chefs have had a French culi- Mälaren—and the sea if the temper- nary training, but they’ve taken the ature really plummets below zero. classics and reinvented them. They You can skate all the way to Sigtuna use native ingredients such as Arc- from Stockholm, but you may have tic char, lingonberries, and elk and to be Scandinavian to achieve that. Moments put the tastes together in a unique See p 45. way. Try the new Swedish cooking 9 Discovering northern art at at Frantzén/Lindeberg from the two the Nationalmuseum. A visit to the eponymous chefs and you’ll see Nationalmuseum is a bit like taking why Stockholm is rapidly becoming an external art history degree. I 12 Favorite the latest gastronomic destination. come away ashamed at my igno- See p 145. rance of northern European artists 7 Spending the evening in Cen- and excited by the amount of great tralbadet. The Jugendstil Central- and unknown art that I’ve seen. badet spa is a wonderful place to See p 33. round off the day. I don’t book a 0 Partying the night away. It’s treatment but just get steamy in the true that Stockholm is a clubber’s sauna, swim in the outdoor pool, paradise, but if you feel either too then sit in the leafy garden with a old or not well dressed enough, cup of coffee and let the world’s ignore the crowds outside the hip- troubles fade away. See p 17. pest places and pick a couple of 8 Joining the skaters in winter. bars or a jazz club for the evening. Everybody, young and old, seems There’s something about emerging to take expertly to the ice in winter. at 3am into the light of day that You can join them on the little Kung- seems to keep you going. See p 123. strädgården rink, or hire or buy ! Looking at the view from your own skates and take to Lake Mosebacke Terrass. Of all the mag- The leafy garden of Jugendstil Central- nificent views you get in Stockholm, I badet spa. love sitting on Mosebacke Terrass with a glass of wine, often sur- rounded by musicians who are play- ing there that evening, looking out toward Skeppsholmen and down toward the Södermalm shoreline. This is one of the famous views Mikael Blomkvist and Lisbeth Salander enjoyed in Stieg Larsson’s famous Millennium trilogy. See p 50. @ Shopping in Östermalms Salu- hall. This is one of Europe’s great indoor food markets. It’s relatively small, but packed full of infinite types of salmon and herring, and elk, sourdough and rye bread, con- serves, preserves, and pastries. When you’ve done looking or shop- ping, settle down for the freshest sole or salted salmon with warm dill potatoes in Lisa Elmqvist. See p 14. • The Best Full-Day 1 Tours 6 The Best in One Day
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mms 0 0 ol assen Va Va kh BBlle lmsterr sjö Previous page: The Mosebacke. 7 tockholm’s capital stretches out over 14 islands so you’re The Best Snever far from the water, which is the main attraction of this historic city. Start with a boat tour before visiting the blockbusters: the Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace) and the impressive Vasamuseet. in One Day As you walk, you’ll discover plenty of beautiful and different views over the water. START: T-bana to Gamla Stan.
1 ★★★ = Under the Strömkajen on the hour, from Nybro- Bridges of Stockholm. With the kajen 5 minutes later. Daily May 1–27 sun—or the wind—in your face, 10am–4pm (from Nybrokajen only), take to the boats on a trip that May 28–June 24 10am–6pm, June 15– shows you the city as people have Aug 28 10am–7pm, Aug 29–Sept 18 seen it for centuries. You begin on 10am–5pm. Check on website for out- the Baltic Sea side and then pass of-season dates and times. Tickets through the Slussen Lock into the in advance from hotels, website, or shelter of Lake Mälaren, the third the departure point booth. T-bana: largest lake in Europe. As you slip Kungsträdgården. under no less than15 bridges, your journey takes you past grand build- 2 ★ Strandbryggan. It’s a short ings and once-gritty, working-class walk along Strandvägen past the areas. The commentary is full of moorings to this cafe that floats on useful and delightfully useless infor- two boats. Order a coffee, meal— mation and you’ll come away know- perhaps a plate of moules marin- ing that performers at the Gröna ières—or drink at this all-day eatery, Lund amusement park have and look toward leafy Djurgården. included the Beatles and Jimi Hen- The smug feeling of being a local drix, who was enjoying himself so and watching the tourists is irresist- much the organizers had to unplug ible (so what’s wrong in pretend- his guitar to get him to stop. 1 hr @ ing?). Strandvägskajen 27 08-660 50 min. Nybrokajen and Strömkajen. y 37 14. www.strandbryggan.se. Bus: 08-120 040 00. www.stromma. y 44, 47, Tram: 7. Moules marinières se. Tickets: Adults 200 SEK, children at 185 SEK. 6–11 years 100 SEK. Boats leave
A different view of the capital. 8
3 ★★★ = Vasamuseet. Noth- later. Walking into the darkened ing prepares you for the drama of museum specially built to house the Stockholm’s blockbuster of a vessel, you get a very real impres- museum and the massive 17th-cen- sion of the might of the battleships tury Vasa ship. The ship was redis- that brought glory to the winners covered in 1956 by wreck specialist, and horror to those who lost. See Anders Franzén, and lifted 5 years minitour below. See also p 25, 1. Full-Day Tours Vasamuseet The Best
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You enter at sea level. Start with the was built to impress and its sculp- 25-minute s film of the discovery tures symbolized Sweden’s power. and raising of the Vasa, which sank You can walk around the entire ship, in Stockholm’s harbor on 10th ending with a close look at the x August 1628 on its maiden voyage. gun ports and the lion figure- Surrounding the great ship are dif- head of the king who commis- ferent levels of exhibitions. At sea sioned the ship, Gustav II Adolf level you see an accurate t (1594–1632), known as the Lion of scaled-down model, the history the North. @ 2 hr. Galärvarvsvägen of Vasa, and the remarkable sculp- 14. y 08-519 548 00. www.vasa tures of the ship. Go down to level 2 museet.se/en. Adults 110 SEK, free where a u shipyard shows how children 17 and under. Free with ships were built. Climb up to level 5 Stockholm Card (see p 11). Daily for v life on board, which, for June 1–Aug 31 8:30am–6pm; Sept 1– the ordinary seaman, was nasty, May 31 10am–5pm (Wed to 8pm); brutal, and short. The w stern was Dec 31 10am–3pm. Closed Dec wonderfully decorated with the 23–25, Jan 1. Bus 47. Tram 7. Ferry Swedish national emblem; the ship to Djurgården (summer). 9 The Best in One Day
The mighty Vasa warship.
4 ★★★ = Kungliga Slottet. here on Gamla Stan (Old Town). This Arrive early or late to miss the tiny island once commanded the crowds. Built on the site of the Tre strategic entrance to Lake Mälaren Kronor (Three Crowns) fortress, the from the Baltic Sea, protected by Royal Palace was destroyed by fire the Tre Kronor (Three Crowns) for- in 1697. The whopping 608-room tress. The crowded, medieval building—the largest working pal- sprawl of houses largely burnt down ace in Europe—was designed by in 1625 and a new city emerged the royal architect Nicodemus Tes- with impressive waterfront stone sin the Younger (1654–1728) and buildings. Tourists choke the main completed in 1754. It’s imposing streets in the summer but I’m rather than beautiful so it’s not sur- amazed at how the herd instinct prising that the Royal Family prefers leaves many of the narrow alley- to live at Drottningholm (p 41, 3) ways and streets that criss-cross and use this palace for offices and this timewarp of a quarter so undis- state occasions only. Decorated by turbed. Don’t miss the tiny Mårten the main artists of the day and Trotzigs Grand alley, less than added to over the centuries, it gives 90cm (3 ft.) wide, which runs up an idea of Sweden’s huge wealth from Västerlånggatan, north of Järn- and importance since the 18th cen- torget. See p 58. tury. There are various parts to visit (see the Kungliga Slottet tour, 6 ★ = Sundbergs Konditori. p 28), but if you have limited time, I You’ll have to compete with locals suggest just visiting the State Apart- and visitors to grab an outside table ments. In mid-summer the Royal at Stockholm’s oldest pâtisserie. Music Festival takes over the Royal Opened in 1785, Sundbergs Kondi- Chapel and the Hall of Stage. 3 hr. @ tori remains totally traditional— For details see p 28. cakes, coffee, and a slice of history 5 ★★★ = Gamla Stan. With are all served here. Järntorget 83. the story of Stockholm in mind, go y 08-10 67 35. Coffee and cake back to the beginnings of the city 75 SEK. 10
7 ★★★ Stadshuset (City Hall). the palatial Blue Hall on December The tower of Stockholm’s City Hall, 10 for some 1,300 guests. You can at 106m (348 ft) high, dominates the only see the building on a guided skyline from all over the city, though tour; however, you can climb the there’s new competition from the 365 steps in the tower on your own waterside city conference center (with an elevator taking you halfway and hotel. Even on a dull day, you if needed)—it’s worth it for the fan-
Full-Day Tours 1 can pick out the extravagantly tastic view. @ 1 ⁄2 hr. Hantver-kar- gilded Tre Kronor—the three gatan 1. y 08-508 290 59. www. crowns that have been Sweden’s stockholm.se/stadshuset. Tour: heraldic symbol since the 14th Adults 90 SEK, accompanied 12–17
The Best century—atop the year olds 40 SEK, free for 11 and tower. The under. Free with Stockholm Card huge redbrick (see p 11). 45 min tours in English building was on the hour (liable to change so designed by check first). Daily Apr–Sept the leading 10am–3pm, Oct–Mar 10am– architect of noon. Tower Daily May–Sept the Swedish 9am–4pm. Closed Oct– National Apr. Adults 40 SEK, free Romantic for children 11 and style, Ragnar under. Free with Östberg (1866– Stockholm Card (see 1945), and com- p 11). T-bana: T-Cen- pleted in 1923. tralen. Bus: 3, 62. City Hall is best known for the Royal lions guard annual Nobel Prize the Royal Palace. banquet, held in
Abba & the Tour
It began in June 1966 when Björn Ulvaeus of the Hootenanny Singers met Benny Andersson, then with the Hep Stars. They teamed up, recorded with Stig ‘Stikkan’ Anderson on his Polar label, met Agnetha Fältskog and Norwegian Anni-Frid Lyngstad and got married (Björn to Agnetha in 1971 and Benny to Anni-Frid in 1978). They became Abba, and in Brighton, U.K. in 1974, won the Eurovi- sion song contest with the song ‘Waterloo’. The rest, as they say, is history. One of the most successful groups ever (along with the Beatles), they last performed together way back in 1982—but the music goes on. Fans can take the ABBA walking tour, organized by 1 the Stadsmuseum. It’s around 1 ⁄2 to 2 hours long and costs 120 SEK. You’ll recognize the record covers from places on Gärdet, Djurgården, and Skansen, be entertained at Wallmans and more. Details and booking from the Stadsmuseum (p 75).