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4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
One Hundred Years Ago C. A. Russell
One hundred years ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal) C. A. Russell 'Before the end of January the sunward-sloping meadows round Glarus were already carpeted with flowers, the birds had begun their songs, and the sun shone with a brilliancy more suited to i\Iay than midwinter.' The temperatures recorded in the Alps during the first months of 1872 were unusually high and the weather during the early part of the climbing season was considerably better-it could hardly have been worse-than that of the previous year. Throughout June the favourable weather continued in all the principal regions: in the Dolomites F. F. Tuckett, with Christian Lauener and Santo Siorpaes, completed a new route on the western side of the Marmo lata, while in the Bernese Oberland the North-east ridge of the Studerhorn was climbed for the first time by A. W. Moore and Horace Walker, with Melchior and Jakob Anderegg. The first important new route of the season was achieved on 2 July, when T. S. Kennedy, with Johann Fischer and J. A. Carrel, succeeded in climbing the South-west face of Mont Blanc by way of the Italian Miage glacier and the Rocher du Mont Blanc, reaching the Bosses ridge near the Rochers de la Tournette. After a bivouac on some convenient rocks the party started at 3am and some eight hours later, having surmounted the last steep slopes of the face, they sat down to lunch and surveyed the scene. 'To the left and much below us lay the Dome du Goute, its ridge sweeping up grandly until we lost it behind some big rocks. -
Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT VOL
THE Fell and Rock Climbing Club OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT VOL. 8. 1980. No. 8. LIST OF OFFICERS. President: G. BASTERFIELD Vice-Presidents: G. S. BOWER G. A. SOLLY Honorary Editor of Journal: MRS. R. S. T. CHORLEY, The Rookery, Stanmore, Middlesex. Assistant Hon. Editor: GRAHAM WILSON, High Bield, Loose, Maidstone. from whom the journal may be obtained. Honorary Librarian: Miss M. M. CAIN, Rosebank House, Ramsbottom, nr. Manchester. Honorary Secretary: J. C. APPLEYARD, Greystones, Torver, Coniston, Lanes. Honorary Treasurer: W. G. MILLIGAN, 59 Croslands Park, Barrow. Trustees of Club Funds: A. P. ABRAHAM, F. L. COOK and G. A. SOLLY Members of Committee: P. D. BOOTHROYD G. G. MACPHEE T. R. BURNETT L. H. POLLITT MRS. B. EDEN-SMITH L. W. SOMERVELL Miss M. FITZGIBBON A W. WAKEFIELD A. T. HARGREAVES Miss K. WARD D. LEIGHTON E. WOOD-JOHNSON Honorary Members: GEORGE D. ABRAHAM BRIG.-GEN. THE HON. C. G. BRUCE BENTLEY BEETHAM J. NORMAN COLLIE W. P. HASKETT-SMITH GEOFFREY HASTINGS THB RT. HON. LORD LECONFIELD LT.-COL. E. F. NORTON N. E. ODELL E. H. P. SCANTLEBURY GODFREY A. SOLLY T. HOWARD SOMERVELL ARTHUR W. WAKEFIBLD L. R. WILBERFORCE GEOFFREY WINTHROP YOUNG ■-*<*& Photo by R C. Waktfield LITTLE PETERMANN AND PETERMANN PEAK, SEEN FROM THE E. PETERMANN PEAK 275 attention more than anything else, and that was a monstrous pyramid of ice to the west, rising about 4,850 feet above a high mountain ridge. This glorious peak could bear none other name than that of Petermann, the honoured originator of the first German Arctic Expedition." With only a rough sketch made in 1926 among the Cambridge Peaks from which to decide a route, we were on our way up to the first proposed camp by 5 p.m. -
DUFOURSPITZE 4634M – SE RIDGE
DUFOURSPITZE 4634m – SE RIDGE Dufourspitze 4634m in the Monte Rosa area is the highest mountain in Switzerland and the second highest in the Alps. The SE ridge, Italian regular route, offers a nice climbing on mixt terrain and incredible landscapes. Program: 1st day: Meeting with the guide in Staffal around 14:00p.m. - Equipment check. We will take the cable car up to Punta Indren. From there we easily hike up to the Gnifetti hut, where we overnight. 1:00 hours - 370m 2nd day: Departure around 3:00 depending on the period of the year. We will follow the trail going to Margherita hut until the Gnifetti Pass; from here, we climb first the Zumsteinspitze 4563m and then we start the exposed descent to Grenzsattel. We will follow the ridge and will climb up in rock (II-III) and snow until the Grenzgipfel. From the Grenzgipfel we climb mostly in rock (III) traversing the ridge to the summit of Dufourspitze 4634m. On the way back we will follow the same itinerary. After a stop to Gnifetti hut, we go back to the cable car and the valley. 6:30 hour’s 1100m 5-6 hours 1500m You have to know: Accommodation: Gnifetti hut CAI (3647m) with half board service. Only to very well acclimatized people, we can suggest to sleep at the Margherita hut. Meeting point: At 14:00p.m. in our office in Staffal (Hotel Nordend near to the bar FZRY). Requirements: Steep terrain, exposed snow ridges and rock climbing up to grade III°. You should have already made similar tours. -
Rudolf Rother, 1923 (65 Vrcholů, Později Přidal Ještě 2)
, Rudolf Rother, 1923 (65 vrcholů, později přidal ještě 2) Jedná se o popis systematického sbírání jednotlivých výstupů. Snažil jsem z této knihy vysbírat maximum informací, ale zatím jsem ji neprošel kompletně. 1. Mont Blanc 4 810 B Masiv Mont Blanku Mont Blank 2. Dufourspitze 4 638 B+ Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 3. Grenzgipfel 4 631 B+ Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 4. Nordend 4 612 B+ Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 5. Zumsteinspitze 4 573 B- Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 6. Signalkuppe / Punta Gnifetti 4 561 B- Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 7. Dom 4 554 B Walliské Alpy Mischabel 8. Lyskamm 4 538 C- Walliské Alpy Liskamm 9. Weisshorn 4 512 C Walliské Alpy Weisshorn 10. Täschhorn 4 498 B+ Walliské Alpy Mischabel 11. Matterhorn 4 482 C Walliské Alpy Matterhorn 12. Pic Luigi Amedeo 4 472 C Masiv Mont Blanku Mont Blank 13. Mont Maudit 4 471 B+ Masiv Mont Blanku Mont Blank 14. Parrotspitze 4 463 B- Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 15. Dent Blanche 4 364 C Walliské Alpy Matterhorn 16. Ludwigshöhe 4 344 B- Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 17. Nadelhorn 4 334 B+ Walliské Alpy Mischabel 18. Dôme du Goûter 4 331 B Masiv Mont Blanku Mont Blank 19. Schwarzhorn 4 324 B+ Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 20. Grand Combin 4 317 C- Walliské Alpy Grand Combin 21. Südlenzspitze 4 300 C Walliské Alpy Mischabel 22. Finsteraarhorn 4 275 B+ Bernské Alpy Jungfrau 23. Balmenhorn 4 255 B- Walliské Alpy Monte Rosa 24. Mont Blanc du Tacul 4 249 B- Masiv Mont Blanku Mont Blank 25. Stecknadelhorn 4 235 B+ Walliské Alpy Mischabel 26. -
Old Friends and New Huts, May-June 1947
~28 OLD FRIENDS AND NEW 'HUTS. · · ·In extenuation .may I plead that to describe avalanches and snow craft · each in some twenty :minutes, is rather like attempting to explain wireless or ballistics in a few sentences. Snowcraft has meant a lifetime study for men who have felt at the end that they have but made a beginning. May this,' too, be my excuse tonight. · ' . • • • • • • • • • • • ' . • ' • • . • OLD FRIENDS AND . NEW HUTS, • • 4 • • • • • • • • • • MAY-JUNE 1947 · • • • BY E. H. PECK . ... • • FTER eight years' absence from the Alps, a kindly Providence brought me to Gerieva .to · work during April and May, and o'n finishing work there I was able· to take three weeks' leave at the .very best period of. the year. A few week ends well spent from Geneva .in 'brushing up one's ·skiing on the Rochers de N aye and the Brevent, together with some exhausting early morning scrambles on the Saleve~ ·were valuable training which enabled me to extract the utmost from the holiday that followed. Perhaps the most interesting. of these excursions from Geneva was an unpremeditated ascent of the Haute Cime of the Dents du Midi early in May when the small snow traverses and the scramble through the Pas d'Encel, of which I retained childish memories of 2 3 years before, gave a foretaste of greater things to come, while the climb of the 2200 metres from Champery and back in a single day made a good contribution to training. Meanwhile, weeks of fine weather slipped by in Geneva, and I fretted with anxiety lest both my earlier plans for a skiing holiday and ·my subsequent ones for climbing should be thwarted by some untimely break in the weather, but these fears proved wholly unjustified. -
Kaleidoscope of Swiss Cartography
Research Collection Edited Volume Kaleidoscope of Swiss Cartography Author(s): Oehrli, Markus Publication Date: 2019-07-15 Permanent Link: https://doi.org/10.3929/ethz-b-000350152 Rights / License: In Copyright - Non-Commercial Use Permitted This page was generated automatically upon download from the ETH Zurich Research Collection. For more information please consult the Terms of use. ETH Library KALEIDOSCOPE of Swiss Cartography KALEIDOSCOPE of Swiss Cartography by Markus Oehrli translated by Juliana Neumann edited by Stefan Räber Publisher Publication History Swiss Society of Cartography SSC, July 2019 Published on the occasion of the 29th International cartography.ch Cartographic Conference and the 18th General Assembly of the International Cartographic Association ICA, Series Tokyo, Japan, July 15–20, 2019, to celebrate the Cartographic Publication Series 50th anniversary of the Swiss Society of Cartography SSC. No. 20 The original German edition was published in October DOI 2017 as “Kaleidoskop der Schweizer Kartografie” by 10.3929/ethz-b-000350152 Cartographica Helvetica, Murten, Switzerland. An earlier version of the German text appeared on the “Map of the Week” blog, one of the Swiss contributions to the International Map Year 2015–2016. Table of Contents Foreword Swiss Society of Cartography SSC 5 Introduction About This Publication 6 Selection Criteria 6 Commentaries 6 Acknowledgements 7 About the Author 7 Prelude Thematic Maps: Nature, Environment The World Isn’t Flat 8 ’Till Here 26 Sinking Hope 27 More Than -
Liste Basée Sur UIAA* (+ Dunantspitze) La Plus Haute Montagne De La Suisse Est Le Dufourspitze (4.634 M)
Liste basée sur UIAA* (+ Dunantspitze) La plus haute montagne de la Suisse est le Dufourspitze (4.634 m). Il se trouve à la troisième place, parmi les sommets plus hauts des Alpes, après le Mont Blanc (4.808 m) et le Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4.748 m). * UIAA: Union internationale des associations d’alpinisme Rang Name Massiv Kanton Höhe 1 Dufourspitze Monte Rosa VS 4634 2 Monte Rosa VS 4632 Dunantspitze 3 Nordend Monte Rosa VS/I 4609 4 Zumsteinspitze Monte Rosa VS/I 4563 5 Signalkuppe Monte Rosa VS/I 4554 Punta Gnifetti 6 Dom Mischabel VS 4545 7 Liskamm (Ostgipfel) VS/I 4527 8 Weisshorn VS 4506 9 Täschhorn Mischabel VS 4491 10 Liskamm (Westgipfel) VS/I 4479 11 Matterhorn VS/I 4478 12 Parrotspitze Monte Rosa VS/I 4432 13 Dent Blanche VS 4357 14 Ludwigshöhe Monte Rosa VS/I 4341 15 Nadelhorn Mischabel VS 4327 16 Combin de Grafeneire Grand Combin VS 4314 17 Lenzspitze Mischabel VS 4294 18 Finsteraarhorn BE/VS 4274 Rang Name Massiv Kanton Höhe 19 Stecknadelhorn Mischabel VS 4241 20 Castor Zwillinge VS/I 4223 21 Zinalrothorn VS 4221 22 Hobärghorn Mischabel VS 4219 23 Alphubel VS 4206 24 Rimpfischhorn VS 4199 25 Aletschhorn VS 4193 26 Strahlhorn VS 4190 27 Combin de Valsorey Grand Combin VS 4184 28 Dent d'Hérens VS/I 4174 29 Breithorn Westgipfel (Zermatt) VS/I 4164 30 Breithorn Zentralgipfel (Zermatt) VS/I 4159 31 Jungfrau BE/VS 4158 32 Bishorn VS 4153 33 Breithorn Zwillinge-West (Zermatt) VS/I 4139 34 Combin de la Tsessette Grand Combin VS 4135 35 Mönch BE/VS 4107 36 Breithorn Zwillinge-Ost (Zermatt) VS/I 4106 37 Pollux Zwillinge VS/I 4092 -
The Cairngorm Club Journal 077, 1936
The Cairngorm Club E. Gyger, Adelboden ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF ZERMATT. 1. A TRAVERSE OF MONTE ROSA. BY ELISABETH RÙTIMEYER, D.PHIL. THE mountaineer who for the first time treads the classic ground of Zermatt, desiring above all to become acquainted with its celebrated rocky heights, will find himself attracted first by the noble pyramid of the Weisshorn, the bold, jagged peaks of the Mischabel Group, or the beautiful ridge of the Dent Blanche, not to mention the Matterhorn, the mountain of mountains, towering over all. But on the initiate, the mighty, spreading glacier massif of Monte Rosa, its wide snow-fields glowing red in the evening light, makes an equally strong impression. Lying on the frontier between Switzerland and Italy, its snow and ice-armoured north wall rises gradually out of the wide, almost level plateau of the Gorner glacier in several glacier terraces carried on rock socles to the two highest peaks, while the south and east flanks of the mountain fall in terrible precipices of more than 3,000 metres (c. 10,600 feet) into the background of the valleys of Gressoney, Alagna, and Macugnaga in Italy. It is this unique frontier situa- tion which, to my mind at least, lends the Monte Rosa its particular, secret attraction. Its peaks are the dividing line between two worlds. To the north the outlook extends over endless snow-fields, ice flanks and cliffs to an immeasurable row of lofty peaks closing the horizon. To the south, however, beyond the long-drawn mountain ranges and the deep-cut valleys, can be seen the shimmer of the Upper Italian lakes and rivers, with the plain of Lombardy faintly visible in the distant haze. -
Deutsche Verlags-Anstalt in Stuttgart
Deutsche Verlags-Anstalt in Stuttgart ALPINE GIPFELFÜHRER I. DIE ZUG SPITZE II. DIE ELMAUER HALTSPITZE III. DER ORTLER IV. DER M O NTE R O SA Die Sammlung wird fortgesetzt ALPINE GIPFELFÜHRER IV. D er M onte R osa VON DR. F. HÖRTNAGL MIT 21 ABBILDUNGEN UND EINER KARTE ________________ STUTTGART UND LEIPZIG DEUTSCHE VERLAGS-ANSTALT 1905 u n * 1 v i lA iiC DI'l i f t M Ê âm m ?3 fa n Papier und Druck der Deutschen Verlags-Anstalt, Stuttgart Inhaltsverzeichnis Seite Aufbau des Monte Rosa-Stockes . 9 Die Gletscher der Monte Rosa- G ruppe .......................................................11 Ersteigungsgeschichte .............................. 14 Z u g ä n g e .............................................................19 ErsteigungderDufourspitzeüber Z e r m a t t ................................................22 Panorama von der Dufour- s p it z c ......................................................25 Andre Aufstiege ....................................27 a) vom Grenzgletscher . 27 b) von der Capanna Marghe rita ................................................29 c) über die Monte Rosa-Ost w and ................................................34 Die übrigen Gipfel des Monte R o s a...................................................... 32 Verzeichnis der Abbildungen Seile Monte Rosa-Kette von Süden .... 9 Blick auf Monte Rosa-Massiv vom Lys- k a m m ......................................................................11 Monte Rosa vom Gornergrat aus . 12 Blick auf den Monte Rosa aus dem Sesia- • tal unterhalb Alagna .........................................13 -
Mountaineers As Comrade Rescuers – Küpper T, Morrison A
Review Küpper T 1,2, Morrison A2,3 ACCEPTED: October 2020 PUBLISHED ONLINE: November 2020 Mountaineers as Comrade Rescuers – Küpper T, Morrison A. Mountaineers as comrade rescuers – deficiencies in First Aid knowledge, minimum physical fitness and Deficiencies in First Aid Knowledge and technical requirements, and environmental exposures. Dtsch Z Sportmed. 2020; 71: Minimum Technical Requirements 280-285. doi:10.5960/dzsm.2020.468 Bergsteiger als Kameradenretter – mangelnde Erste Hilfe-Kenntnisse und minimale technische Anforderungen Summary Zusammenfassung 1. RWTH AACHEN TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY, Institute of Occupational & Social Medicine, Aachen, Germany › Self-reliance in the mountains requires the ability to cope › Rettungsmaßnahmen, Erste Hilfe und Verletztenversorgung 2. MEDICAL COMMISSION OF THE UNION with most eventualities that may arise. This includes First Aid eines Bergkameraden sind extrem komplexe Situationen und INTERNATIONALE DES ASSOCIATIONS (FA) care and rescue of a fellow mountaineer in an emergency Handlungsabläufe, die sowohl taktische als auch operationelle D’ALPINISME (UIAA, INTERNATIONAL situation that can require complex but trainable skills. This FA Fähigkeiten, medizinische Kenntnisse, körperliche Fitness, psy- CLIMBING AND MOUNTAINEERING training should reflect the environmental conditions encounte- chische Belastbarkeit und Aufmerksamkeit gegenüber äußeren FEDERATION), Bern, Switzerland red, as these vary and add complications. Risiken erfordern. Dabei sind Daten über Stressmanagement und 3. ROYAL FREE LONDON NHS FOUNDATION › The minimum fitnessrequired by the group of rescuer has been mögliches posttraumatisches Stresssyndrom praktisch inexis- TRUST, London, U.K. estimated to be 3 to 3.5 W/kg body weight. Different deficiencies tent und erfordern weitere Forschung. in FA knowledge were identified according to the climbing sty- › Im Folgenden wird ein Überblick über diese Anforderungen le, and the subjects were generally unable to judge their level of gegeben, damit es denjenigen, die in eine solche Situation gera- knowledge. -
The Kaleidoscope of Swiss Cartography
KALEIDOSCOPE of Swiss Cartography KALEIDOSCOPE of Swiss Cartography by Markus Oehrli translated by Juliana Neumann edited by Stefan Räber Publisher Publication History Swiss Society of Cartography SSC, July 2019 Published on the occasion of the 29th International cartography.ch Cartographic Conference and the 18th General Assembly of the International Cartographic Association ICA, Series Tokyo, Japan, July 15–20, 2019, to celebrate the Cartographic Publication Series 50th anniversary of the Swiss Society of Cartography SSC. No. 20 The original German edition was published in October DOI 2017 as “Kaleidoskop der Schweizer Kartografie” by 10.3929/ethz-b-000350152 Cartographica Helvetica, Murten, Switzerland. An earlier version of the German text appeared on the “Map of the Week” blog, one of the Swiss contributions to the International Map Year 2015–2016. Table of Contents Foreword Swiss Society of Cartography SSC 5 Introduction About This Publication 6 Selection Criteria 6 Commentaries 6 Acknowledgements 7 About the Author 7 Prelude Thematic Maps: Nature, Environment The World Isn’t Flat 8 ’Till Here 26 Sinking Hope 27 More Than Rocks 28 Visiting Hades 29 Topographic Maps Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star 30 Vive La République! 9 Remains of the Day 31 Are You Game? 10 40 Years in the Desert 11 Let There Be Light! 12 A Greek Drama 13 Thematic Maps: Transport, Communication Clear as Day 14 Out and About 32 Shadows on the Moon 15 Live Wires 33 Alpenglow 16 Next Stop is Siberia 34 The Unknown Brother 17 Ship Ahoy