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4 Apparel Online India 5 Apparel Online India 6 Apparel Online India 7 Apparel Online India vol. XVII Issue 12

Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA Editor ILA SAXENA Chief Response Editor VINITA PANDEY Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI September 16-30, 2014 Asst. Editor-News CONTENTS

DHEERAJ TAGRA Asst. Editor-Fashion shraddha gupta Asst. Editor NEHA CHHETRI Sr. Correspondent - Textiles SANJOGEETA OJHA Director - Sales & Marketing RAGHAV SOOD 08826000378 Creative Team RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL PEEUSH JAUHARI SATYAPAL BISHT Photo Editor JITENDER MEERWAL Subscription Enquiry RANI MAHENDRU 011-47390000 Operation Director MAYANK MOHINDRA 09810611487 14 24 30 37 40 Publisher & Managing Director RENU MOHINDRA 09810058986, 9810438653 WorldWrap Head Office Rise of the Gender-Neutral Fashion Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. This coming season, retailers and designers alike are pushing B-32, South Extension-I, New Delhi-110 049 boundaries with styles and garments that provides scope to Phone: 91-11-24602283, 47390000 move flexibly between both the genders, as a new trend of 14 Fax: 91-11-24604597 gender neutral fashion blurs the lines... E-mail: [email protected] Web associate: www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online contact: 91-11-47390000 LeadStrategy [email protected] New Direction for Manufacturers in Bangalore… [email protected] Once the preferred destination for trousers, shirts and ‘technical’ Printing garments like jackets and sportswear, the Bangalore garment TARA ART PRINTERS PVT. LTD. manufacturing industry is now undergoing a transformation with 20 increasing emphasis on product development... B-4, Hans Bhawan, B.S. Zafar Marg, New Delhi-110002 Tel: 23378626, 23379686 ------Tex-File The Next Level in Technical Textiles subscription FORM for Indian Investors Yes, I wish to subscribe to Apparel Online for Over the last five years, as the awareness of technical by regular mail textiles grows, so has the market size... 24 India Rs. 1800.00 24 issues by courier Delhi/NCR Rs. 2400.00 24 issues H2F Rest of India Rs. 3600.00 24 issues New Directions for Home Furnishing in Sub International USD 264.00 24 issues Continent: Will it impact each other’s market share? Name ______28 Indian apparel export is already facing stiff competition from Bangladesh, and with the country simultaneously growing its home Designation ______furnishing industry on a 20 per cent yearly basis... Company/Institute ______Address ______Tel/Mobile ______E-mail ______ValueAddition Handmade Techniques Re-Surfaced by Designers Type of business With growing popularity and application of hand done techniques Exporter Retailer Buying House amongst Indian and International designers, exporters have been Any other (specify) ______attempting to offer parallel designs and techniques in the mass 30 market as well... Subscription within India- Send Cheque/DD to Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. B-32, South Extn. Part-1, New Delhi-110049, INDIA Trends2015 International subscription (in Dollar) - Credit Card using www.apparelresources.com Runway to Retail; Prints that Made it Big in 2014 Telegraphic transfer to Bank Account No. 03192320003806 After making a series of appearances on the recent runways, (Swift No:HDFCINBB) with HDFC Bank, D-9, South Extn. 37 an interesting array of prints have managed to make it big on Part-2, New Delhi-110049. INDIA the retail shelves of global fashion brands, declaring 2014 as the year of prints...

8 Apparel Online India | september 16-30, 2014 9 Apparel Online India FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’S DESK… FOR THE CHANGE...

A small, but seemingly insignificant, notice in the movement of change is being led by a few people and Economic Times by the AEPC caught my eye… others are busy looking after their business, ignoring ‘Rs. 1,00,000.00 deposit to stand for elections as EC the bigger issues of the industry. member…’ took me by surprise; my first thought Yet, my faith in the power of the people has been was, what triggered the move. rekindled when a very senior EC member like Kishor Of course, the obvious reason given is that the Shah of Crystaline Exports, Mumbai resigned from requirement is in line with the provision laid out in the AEPC to give way to new and fresh members. section 160(1) of the Companies Act 2013… but then Standing firm on his belief that the time has come I did approach the industry, and it has been informed for change, Mr. Shah shared with us a letter written to me that there is lack of clarity on whether this to the Chairman on what he thinks are the changes provision holds ground for an association like that need to be made… Excerpts of the letter are AEPC… The question many are asking is whether reproduced below: this is a new move to block small exporters from A. RETIREMENT AGE: There should be a retirement even thinking about filing nominations…? age after which a member should not contest. Another reason for discontent is that assuming To start with, AEPC may set the retirement age AEPC is going by the rule book, then why are other between 65 years and 70 years as most members provisions being blatantly violated… the provisions deem fit. I am neither demeaning the great of section 149 of the Companies Act, 2013 permits contributions made by senior members for years maximum of 15 executive members beyond which nor am I suggesting that they don’t have new special resolution by members is needed, however, ideas. I strongly believe that ‘experience does so far no such resolution has been passed and there not have any expiry date!’ However experience are still 27 members in the EC committee. can be used by inviting these seniors in whatever I would certainly wish the AEPC to take note of name and form as deemed fit by its members. the circular, dated 09.06.2011 from the Commerce As mentioned during the managing committee, Ministry, followed by another circular, dated though I have not yet matured to 65 years of 11.05.2012, giving direction to all Export age, I would like to retire soonest to enable Promotion Councils including AEPC to take AEPC to induct a young dynamic member from immediate steps for adoption of electronic voting Western Region. system with effect from 2011, a copy of which is B. DURATIONS: AEPC managing committee should available with Apparel Online, even as proxies provide enough space to Leaders of future. I continue to be a norm. The idea for electronic believe that if a member has served for 3 terms or voting is indeed well conceived and I am sure that it 9 years, then the member should not be eligible is acceptable to all. to contest the next election. Again, such retired Few exporters have requested that the elections member may be an advisor as permanent invitee, should be deferred till all technical matters are if so required. cleared and there is assurance that the elections C. WOMEN’S RESERVATION: There are many will be fair… but the AEPC has not yet commented women leaders who have excelled in corporate on the request, going ahead to announce the Annual governance as well as in business. To prepare the General Body meeting on 26th September as organization for gender diversity, varied & new scheduled with elections as the prime agenda. thoughts, I believe from each region, one seat may As the election date approaches, the ‘war’ between be reserved for a lady member. Merchandisers, those in the AEPC and those who want change, designers, teachers, female executives in is heating up… Never in the history of the AEPC marketing, media, Directors and CEOs are has the elections been such a big issue. The all excelling in their fields and can provide a general attitude was chalta hai; and it has always new perspective to AEPC. How many buyers & been like this… product managers are females internationally…? But change is definitely in the air and one It is easy to say that no one comes forward but wonders if it has been accentuated by the general unless it is tried with reservation and widely environment of ‘change’ that has enveloped the publicized, they will not look into this. Once they country after the National elections or does it have are convinced there will be more and more women roots much deeper? on board. I have been constantly sharing my views on the Certain organizations like Texprocil, FIEO etc. have problems that ail the AEPC and which are directly or already made the beginning in one way or the other indirectly responsible for the association to stagnate to review reconstitution of their boards. I think with no visible benefits going to the exporters… I time has come when AEPC should also change with have also expressed my disappointment that the changing times. I sincerely hope AEPC executive

10 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 committee members will do introspection and rise The record of various activities organized by the above self-interests to work in long-term interests of AEPC in the last one year is dismal, which only goes the organization and the industry to take a matured to prove how the association is losing touch and EC decision on above issues. members may put forward many justifications for failure, but the fact remains that enough time, money The point that Mr. Shah makes is indeed noteworthy and planning has not gone into these events to make and completely in line with what Apparel Online them successful… so where are the funds going? believes in… A good example is set by the largest democracy in the World – America, where even The BSM to be held in September has been cancelled President Obama, despite being Politically very on the request of the showroom holders… why… because the list of buyers proposed to be invited to young, cannot contest for the third time, as there is the event was a disgrace in the name of promoting a bar on how many terms a President can serve the exporters. After reviewing the 11 profiles of buyers nation… I hope that with Mr. Shah’s bold step many invited, it was felt that most of them are opportunists other members will understand the criticality of and some have even showed minimum quantity the situation and stand up for the larger interest of requests of just 20 pieces! the industry. Taking a proactive approach, it has been suggested The governance at AEPC is in question and this that the industry representatives should be includes the role of the Government nominee… and involved in the screening of the invited buyers this is not my personal view but the collective view of and not left in the hands of few AEPC members… exporters across the country, who have been writing Another suggestion is that buyers should be graded in to Apparel Online in response to my editorials… according to its annual buying from India and no My role is to put forward their thoughts and be the buyer with less than US $ 5 million turnover should facilitator of change. be invited.

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 11 mindtree

will give you better product, control and Creating a division exclusively for Product comparatively good results as you have your Development means an investment in infrastructure, own supervision also. No doubt, it is a little Mind resources and a design team… Do you think that expensive but more fruitful. Its outsourcing outsourcing such services is a better option than may be cheaper but there is less chance that having an in-house PD facility… why/why not… How you will hit the target with it. The best way is to give 3-4 best options to the buyer in his treeTOPIC OF DEBATE are you addressing PD needs? price range rather than wasting your time and resources on that sample for which your buyer will not pay. Raju Sadh, Proprietor, Ayushi Overseas, orders are through buying houses and almost Delhi  We do PD completely in-house every buying house has its own strong PD within our resources as I strongly feel that team so where does outsourcing come into the Puneesh Kumar Grover, Director, Parul outsourcing the product development cannot picture. I would like to insist that PD is not an Grover Creations, Delhi  We are into bridal give you the exact result as you want. Nobody easy process and everybody can do it. Whatever wear which has a very high price range and can think the same as you are. There will you are manufacturing, your PD person a lot of creativity, so we have each and every be plenty of issues from shade variation to should have aesthetics, design background step of PD done in our factory premises; understanding of various terms. More than and be in sync with the product so, that he/ nothing is outsourced in this process. that, outsourcing will take more time. I don’t she can deliver what best is possible against Outsourcing of such PD can lead to copying of see cost issue is there as both have almost the buyer requirement. He should know about design, also as service providers; outsourcing similar costs and it depends on individual also. the availability, convertibility of the product. I studios have their own limitations, further I am personally involved in PD with my small don’t think all this is possible or comfortable what will you do if they are unable to give but creative team. in outsourcing. you exactly what you want? As lead time is reducing, runs are short, in-house PD is the best option. Ashu D. Walia, DGM-Design & Creative Indra Bhardwaj, Production Director, Merchandising, Orient Craft, Gurgaon Continuum Buying Agency, Gurgaon  I don’t see much logic in outsourcing PD  I personally feel that both ways are okay and Anoop Viswanathan, CEO, Koral whether you are running a big or medium- depends on your requirements and budget, International/Koral Knitting Mills, Tirupur level export house. Nowadays most of the but it is for sure that having in-house PD team  Our experience has proved that in-house

12 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 mindtree

PD facility is cheaper than outsourcing. In Meeta Nayyar, Director, Product outsourcing, one always has limited options Development, Indus Gartex, Jaipur and has to coordinate and communicate very  We are doing all our product frequently which ultimately cost more time and developments in-house and have a team Mind resources. With my own team in factory I can of 10 people for the same. As we do it with get a ready sample in two hours which is not both the season and show focused, based possible in outsourcing. Here you can’t ignore on buyer’s feedback, so in-house is more tree the productivity of your team. We have three comfortable and cost-effective for us. QUESTION main designers in our PD team, one each for Though we don’t have permanent designers men’s, women’s and kids’ wear while technical with us, but we hire them time to time. It is There are almost 10 export staff is different for the same. very rare that we feel the requirement to promotion councils for various outsource regarding product development. products in textile, including In this way I feel having in-house PD facility handicraft, but none has prime focus on home furnishing segment. Anjali Kalia, Proprietor, Divine Design, Noida is a good option.  Being a design based company and having Are issues like training and R&D design sensibility with different handwriting, in home furnishing sector suffering we do all developments in-house. Well, it Govinda Khatri, Holi Fashion, Pushkar due to non existence of such a strong depends on certain things like kind of buyer  We do all such developments in-house body dedicated to the segment? you have, what are your products and how because we work according to our buyers Being a part of the home furnishing creatively strong you are. If someone has a rather than focusing on new trend reports industry, do you think a strong independent association is required design background it is comparatively easy or fashion forecasting. Our regular buyers to address issues specific to the for him/her. I must say that if your product give us a lot of suggestions and samples, industry or are the councils already development is good, you may get good price, and we work according to that. So we existing good enough to satisfy the and then increased cost of in-house production never feel the need or requirement to needs of the industry? does not matter a lot. Though companies are outsource our designing, sampling or any doing very well by outsourcing their PD but it such product development need. We travel Post your comments on Be a part of our latest discussions... is not that easy. Like in your company you have to get the feel about fashion and fabrics so http://www.linkedin.com/groups?home=&gid=4128357&trk=anet_ug_hm trained staff but conveying the same message all these makes our PD complete, without is not easy in outsourcing. any outsourcing.

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 13 worldwrap

Rise of the gender-neutral fashion Blurring the gap between Menswear and Womenswear This coming season, retailers and designers alike are pushing boundaries with styles and garments that provides scope to move flexibly between both the genders, as a new trend of gender neutral fashion blurs the lines between menswear and womenswear. Today, fashion is more interchangeable than ever, with men dressing in womenswear and vice versa. As such, a new category has emerged as many designers and retailers are building entire collections based around the concept of gender neutral fashion or unisex garments.

n the first decade of the assumed that that’s masculine or which surprisingly became a millennium, girls dressing feminine,” reveals Ashe Bowen, cult favourite among women like boys became a Owner of {A•(s)Hē}, a new especially the jackets, who recurring fashion trend, gender neutral clothing store that claimed that they fitted better. as women continued has just opened in Broadway, With retailers and designers Ito ‘borrow’ items from men’s Ohio, USA. such as M&S, Uniqlo, Giordano, wardrobes, lending to the Zara, Kenneth Cole, Next, Céline, popularity of items such as This new concept is being Dries Van Noten, Abercrombie ‘boyfriend jeans’ and ‘boyfriend given a push because of the re- & Fitch, GAP, American Eagle, jackets’. But going forward, a emergence of minimalism in the Brook Brothers’ Thom Browne, new category of unisex fashion fashion scene as unisex brands Loewe, YSL, Paul Smith, Miu or dressing which does not appeal to the younger generation Miu, Hermes, Rick Owens, Rad discriminate and eliminate looking for a fresh approach. Hourani, J.W. Anderson, to Through name a few introducing gender avant-garde neutral collection, the trend is pieces that expanding from mere fragrances, can be worn accessories and kidswear both by men collection to proper clothing and women, lines. Also, American Apparel such as has depicted unisex fashions in over-sized their ads, with men and women draped tops, wearing the same plaid shirts. long tunics, Apart from this, many more cuffed retailers are planning to expand trousers, into unisex wear, one such being scarf tops, Selfridges which is ready to skinny launch a new collection in 2015. jeans, “Women buying into menswear embellished is a growing trend, as women are ponchos, looking to de-gender their style. capes, etc, Gender neutral fashion is increasingly being seen on the runway There is also a female customer gender interested in a more masculine neutral aesthetic and seeking out for fashion gender norms, takes over the “This generation is more open- a true menswear fit – such as is all set androgynous look, which sees minded and not concerned so a real ‘boyfriend’ jean, shirt or to grow. both sexes mix and match much about traditional gender sweater. We have also seen an popular items from each other’s roles. Today, both sexes will buy wardrobes. “Fashion should items they like, regardless of emerging male customer profile be assigned by size and not by whether they are categorized that is extremely fashion-literate, gender. And I think that a lot as men’s or women’s,” informs shopping womenswear and of people don’t really assign Danny Chow, Divisional women’s accessories,” states themselves to a specific gender Merchandise Manager for Eleanor Robinson, Menswear (for clothing) even if they are menswear at Joyce. This is Buying Manager, Selfridges. heterosexual. It really has to evident from Dior Homme’s What makes unisex fashion do with the way that the store new collection of silhouettes so appealing and relevant is arranged and the way that for men consisting of slim-cut today is that it eschews trends clothes are assigned, because it’s blazers and skinny trousers, completely and is being used

14 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 worldwrap

The gender neutral fashion movement signals more room for self-expression

as a means of self-expression, easier dressing for all and which encourages the wearer to more room for self-expression, experiment with their personal where wearers are not bound style without being bound by by gender constraints. Then the constraints of gender. The there’s the other, perhaps biggest proponent of unisex more obvious, pro of gender fashion in the apparel industry non-conforming fashion that is Paris-based Canadian if you live with someone of designer Rad Hourani, who the opposite sex, embracing founded the first unisex brand it essentially means doubling back in 2007. According to your wardrobe. As Vivienne Rad Hourani, “it doesn’t make Westwood, English fashion sense to limit things, which is designer and businesswoman why I studied male and female rightly puts it, “Take beautiful bodies to create a canvas that pieces from your wardrobe can fit both. It has always been or from that of your friend or relevant for me as it is about partner and style together with the yin and yang in all of us. I’m your old favourites.” not interested in trends, as they These days, women dressing fade.” His latest autumn-winter like men or ‘borrowing from collection features his signature the boys’ has become a sculptural shapes, including commonplace, while on the flip kimono-wrap jackets and multi- side, more fashion-literate men collared trenches made from are shopping in the women’s black fabric infused with silver department. Though with threads and sequins. the shaking up of traditional Through avant-garde pieces notions of masculinity with that can be worn both by men dresses, skirts and shoulder and women, such as over-sized baring tops, the future of draped tops, long tunics, cuffed menswear is looking more trousers, scarf tops, skinny towards the feminine side. As jeans, embellished ponchos, men and women continue to capes, etc, unisex collection are share their clothes, still, one all set to grow. Often involving acknowledges unisex as more basic, boxy and conceptual of a ‘boyfriend fit’ trend, but the pieces in a wider range of sizes acceptance of men borrowing to canvas a larger number their partner’s clothes or the of bodies, the gender neutral ‘girlfriend fit’ trend is probably fashion movement signals a long way to go.

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 15 New Government focuses on Economic Sustainability Creating jobs, better credit access to artisans and promoting organic production

he Government embroidery), carpet and many of skills dying out because of “On a visit to the has already sprung other local crafts… can be a weavers and artisans choosing into action with strong source of employment,” other professions for their self- US once I saw draft textile policy says Gangwar in support. sustenance. With Government branded clothes promising creation Tackling India’s labour practices reforms such as this, it would ofT jobs, better credit access and is central to Prime Minister’s put India on the world map for and found to my surprise promoting organic production, efforts to revive economic growth value-added goods, retaining providing support in terms of and bolster tax revenue. The the traditional skills and that they were economic sustainability not just Government has already started training others in honing theirs. made in India. for the garment industry but also working in this direction. “In “Products in this sector remain Now, I wish to for people working in it. Further, order to attract large scale vulnerable to competition from hope comes from the fact that investments, acquire global cheaper imports and machine- promote Brand Prime Minister Narendra Modi scale and bring the Indian sector made substitutes. We must give India across has already worked wonders in at par with other competing more attention to development the world,” Gujarat, by uplifting the image countries, there is an immediate of capacity, skills, designs and infrastructure,” said the were the words of Ahmedabad textile mills through his interventions in the President. Better credit access of the newly sector. Under Modi, Gujarat has President Pranab would also enable the economic Mukherjee has called elected Textile recorded exponential growth in development of the country for better credit raw cotton production boosting it boosting the garment industry. Minister Santosh access to weavers and up from 2.3 million bales in 2001 Gangwar, during craftsperson’s from banks Pushing it further, the Prime to 12.3 million in 2014, making and financial institutions Minister has also stressed on the his first public the state the largest cotton and to promote their need for developing the whole of address under producer in India. products in domestic and Northeast India as ‘organic state’ Narendra Modi’s What seems to be of primary foreign markets. This to enable the region to prosper would enable the garment and capture the global market for Government. importance is Modi’s promise of nearly 10 million jobs a year, factories to take proper organic products. Though Sikkim As the 100 a portion of which would come advantage of their skills produces a limited percentage days of Modi from garment exports. The of organic cotton fibre for the garment industry, but the need to Government idea of job creation is vital for need to review the labour laws the Indian garment industry, to make them investor and promote states, which produce came to an end which has been continuously labour-friendly,” claims the organic cotton, is also vital for with a positive grappling with a shortage of Textile Minister. the garment industry. Organic clothing is gaining momentum impetus to GDP labour during the peak demand Adding to this, President in the international scenario as season. The increased number Pranab Mukherjee has also growing at a the source of the clothing fibre is of jobs would mean stability called for better credit access free from pesticides; also organic rate of 5.7 per in availability of skilled and to weavers and craftsperson’s cotton farming uses less amount cent, concrete unskilled workforce, greater from banks and financial of water and produces less CO retention of workforce leading institutions and to also promote 2 steps need to be emission. The Government’s to economic sustainability of their products in domestic and taken for the measure to promote organic the industry in lieu with the foreign markets. This would farming will provided sustainable much promised economic development of the enable the garment factories to measures for the environment sustainability people. “The textile sector has take proper advantage of their and a greater availability of a huge potential of providing skills in terms of international of the garment raw materials. large number of jobs to the competition. India is primarily industry. vulnerable section of the society. known for its value-added goods, Apart from various reforms, the Zari Zardozi (intricate gold but today is facing the challenge Government recently came out

16 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 17 Apparel Online India SUSTAINABILITY

with the first draft of a new Quiksilver reveals Boardshorts made from recycled fibres national textile policy, to replace the one that was formulated in ustralian outdoor sports informs Nick Drake, Chief the year 2000 that envisages Aretailer Quiksilver has Marketing Officer at Quiksilver. suitable amendments to several recently launched its newly The Quiksilver AG47 New Wave policies including Labour Laws designed AG47 collection Boardshort is constructed using and to encourage industry to of Boardshorts, made from Quiksilver Dry Flight Technology, boost production and exports. recycled fibres. These fibres, which helps water to bead up and According to the Vision 2024-25 brand named Repreve, are roll off, allowing the fabric to dry document, if the Government recycled from materials like quickly. This technology extends takes the necessary steps, plastics bottles by Unifi, a to the laser-cut, heat-welded Indian textile exports can jump leader in recycling fibre. panels that offer maximum to US $ 300 billion, up from Each Boardshort from the strength and lightness. Currently, the present US $ 39 billion, new collection is made from the collection is available in capturing a fifth of the global approximately 11 plastic three unique colours: Anthracite, textile business (up from a mere bottles. With the addition of the Gargoyle and Blue. “Repreve is 5 per cent at present). The new boardshorts from Quiksilver AG47 collection of Boardshorts, made from recycled fibres committed to raising awareness To meet the goals of nearly Quiksilver now uses Repreve about the importance of eight-fold jump in exports and in more than 75 per cent are helping Quiksilver and our recycling, and we strive to align doubling of employment, the of its total boardshort line. consumers make an important with companies that are equally expert committee on the new “Being made from recycled contribution to the problem of dedicated to sustainability,” says textile policy believes the need plastic bottles, Repreve fibres waste pollution in our oceans,” Roger Berrier, COO of Unifi. to attract about US $ 120 billion in investment, including foreign direct investment. For this, the Government has to provide Sri Lankan apparel factory renews carbon the necessary infrastructure, neutral status Fast fashion brands including creation of new safety test in China mega textile parks, ensuring sia’s first carbon-neutral Through various initiatives, our ‘fast fashion’ brands easy connectivity to ports Aapparel manufacturing Mihila, owned and operated by namely H&M, ZARA, and promote innovation and company located in Sri the Hirdaramani Group ensures F Forever 21 and Mango were R&D. Till now, the Government Lanka – Mihila, renewed its that it makes complete amends named amongst China’s top 5 has approved two mega carbon neutral status which for the greenhouse gas pollution worst in terms of safety among textile clusters at Guntur and it has maintained for the last that it generates. “Mihila was imported garments. These Prakasam in Andhra Pradesh three years. Through the setup to fulfil the Hirdaramani retailers were most frequently and Godda in Jharkhand and renewal of the status Mihila Group’s vision of demonstrating found to fail quality and safety six more have been proposed in Factory continues to drive that manufacturing could be tests, according to the General Rae Bareilly, Lucknow, Kutch, environmental sustainability carried out in an environmentally Administration of Quality Mysore, Bhagalpur and Tamil as a vital aspect of its friendly and sustainable manner. Nadu. Also the first draft wants business operations. We took a giant step by becoming Supervision, Inspection and India to diversify its export The factory’s complete the first apparel factory in Asia Quarantine. Till date, a total basket, tapping new markets carbon footprint has been to be certified CarbonNeutral of 12,305 cases of imported including Japan, China, Brazil independently assessed and because we wanted to ensure that apparel, worth US $ 47.67 and Russia. At present, about 50 verified by Carbon Consulting we went all out to compensate million, were found to have per cent of India’s exports are Company (CCC), and it has for the environmental impacts failed quality tests in the first to traditional markets in Europe purchased sufficient carbon we created, rather than simply half of this year. and the US. credits to compensate claim energy reduction or waste Amongst the 396 cases Meanwhile, India has overtaken for the impact through recycling as our sustainability that failed safety tests, the Germany and Italy to emerge CarbonNeutral Company of efforts,” said Chamara De Silva, four ‘fast fashion’ brands as the world’s second largest the UK. General Manager of Mihila. accounted for 107 cases textile exporter but lags or 27 per cent of the total, behind China, whose exports revealed the administration. are nearly seven times higher. These clothing failed safety Though the landslide election tests as they were found to win by BJP could be a game be potentially hazardous changer in the history of Indian to consumers or the politics but it still remains to be environment. For example, seen whether the Government 1,442 imported children’s will ensure greater political garments failed quality tests stability, quicker investment after a significant portion revival, high growth rate and failed to meet pH level more importantly sustainable standards – which could result development of the Indian in harm to children’s skin. garment industry. Environment friendly manufacturing is of supreme importance at Mihila

18 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 19 Apparel Online India leadstrategy

Once the preferred t would be unfair to say that etc., fashion integrated Go Go destination for trousers, Bangalore never had companies International, which is known for shirts and ‘technical’ that made fashion, but what its trendy collections is increasingly garments like jackets is universally known is that tapping on its strengths through and sportswear, the I a majority of the companies are its Bangalore based factories and Bangalore garment involved in large-scale productions of despite recession, the company saw manufacturing industry core programs with skilled workers 15-20 per cent growth in business. is now undergoing a for structured categories. In a survey “Being in Bangalore is actually an transformation with conducted by Apparel Online a advantage, as we can do fashion increasing emphasis on few months back, 93% of the buyers garments and also have the capacity product development and smaller quantities. said that they went to the city to to do volumes at cheaper prices Always considered as source bottoms and basic garments, than Delhi and Mumbai,” claims the most professional another 70% ranked Bangalore as top Rajeev Goenka, Director, Go Go garmenting hub and manufacturing base on scales while International. The company is home to many migrant 32% of the buyers ranked it as ‘poor’ manufacturing fashion garments for companies from Mumbai on small quantities. Yet, today many men, women and children. companies are re-looking at their Relatively newer companies are strategy, reworking on their business building their business strategy with model to accommodate ‘fashion’ for product development at the core. Just New Direction for better balance of product basket. two decades old, Pradhan Mercantile Garment manufacturers are of the has balanced its company’s focus Manufacturers in view that with buyers demanding on product development and more value additions, it has become management of its manufacturing Bangalore… imperative for companies to move operations via cutting edge IT beyond basics, which could be the interventions, as its winning strategy. Value-added garments strength of our manufacturing bases. The competitive edge of the company and expansion outside of “Business for us is good as we are is giving its buyers a complete Bangalore a clear movement putting a lot of stress on product kidswear product range of woven development; I guess that is the blouses, tops, dresses, skirts, shirts, and Delhi, the city has call of the day. If someone is not nightwear, overalls, knitted tops, faced some serious spending on development they will leggings and T-shirts, both in knit and ‘resource’ issues in the be losing out as now Bangladesh is woven fabrics, in age bracket of 2 to last two years with labour not the only threat for us, a lot of 14 years and in the infant category shortage being the most new countries like Cambodia and between 0 to 23 months. crippling… This and the Myanmar are strongly coming up The size and style assortment rise in cost of operations as volume manufacturers, so the capabilities are complemented by have led many companies only differentiator is the product to expand into newer the company’s in-house setup for development,” says Vinit Mehta, Vice value additions like laser cutting locales on the outskirts President, Golden Seam, a company and even outside the state. for appliqué work and embroidery. which has established its credibility The changing mood is “Product development is a two-way on fashion casual bottom wear. visible and technology process, which means not only do providers corroborate With an in-house facility for we follow the guidelines given by investment in value stitching, hand and computer the buyers but we also develop adding technologies and embroidery, washing, garment our collections and present the factories outside the city. and pigment dyeing, printing, same to our buyers, for which we

Excellence in manufacturing is today supported by strong product development at many export houses in Bangalore. Flexible manufacturing facilities at Madura and PD team at Golden Seam are some examples of the changing dimension of Bangalore factories

20 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 leadstrategy

Vinit Mehta, Rajeev Goenka, Amir Pradhan, Radheshyam Kumawat, Angie Mahtaney, Vice President, Golden Seam Director, Go Go International MD, Pradhan Mercantile BDM, Unix Stitch Machines CEO, K Mohan “If someone is “Being in Bangalore is “The size and “Earlier many of the “Plans are ready in not spending on actually an advantage, style assortment value-added needs place for expansion, development they will as we can do fashion capabilities are were outsourced but but we have to do be losing out as now garments and also complemented by our now companies are our due diligence in Bangladesh is not the have the capacity to in-house setup for investing in in-house terms of selecting only threat for us.” do volumes.” value additions.” capacities.” the region.” have two designers, one from India New locations for time to train the labour and bring them and the other from France,” shares manufacturing… up to the desired efficiency and quality Amir Pradhan, Managing Director, levels, but the size of the population Besides strengthening their product Pradhan Mercantile. of the area defines sustenance of the basket, companies are also looking project,” says Angie Mahtaney, CEO, K The increased focus on value addition for expansion in capacities and Mohan. The company has plans to shift has been accentuated by the maturing not necessarily in the city. In fact, the production of relatively lower priced domestic market manufacturers who locations on the outskirts of Bangalore and basic products to these facilities are not only creating the infrastructure or within Karnataka like Hosur, while the manufacturing of value-added for value addition, but also training Bomannasandra, Mandya, Dabaspet, high-end products will continue in its a pool of talent, which never existed Nelamangala, Chitradurga, Arsikere, existing facilities. in the city before. Arvind has started Shimoga, Maddur, Malur, Tumkur a centre of excellence 4 months ago, (Tumakuru), Kanakapura, Kolar, These new areas are attracting which is a product development wing Doddakallasandra, Kengeri and manufacturers not just because of for all his brands with a team of 75 Bangarpet, are developing at a faster relatively easier land availability people mostly technical persons. pace than the old manufacturing and its cheap price in comparison to Reliance too has gone in for a hubs. Leading this charge are many Bangalore, but also because of local similar division. Women’s wear is established players. Kanakapura, labour availability and less issues fast developing in the region and a town in Ramanagar district, 55 related to workforce, Government accessory providers share that the km from the city of Bangalore is an zone wise incentives, increasing living demands for items like lace, ribbons example of how one good factory can cost in Bangalore, good connectivity and net, which were always a prime pull others to follow. Loveable is the by road, proper power supply, and product for the Delhi-NCR region have first company to establish units in reasonable infrastructure in most of the increased multifold. the area, followed soon afterward areas. Various incentive schemes have The increased focus on ‘value addition’ by Laguna with a factory spread out been initiated by State Government is also pointed out by technology in 1,10,000 sq. feet area at Seegekote to promote industry in the interiors, providers, who claim that apart from village (Kanakapura). Now Kanakapura like investment promotion subsidy, IE, Product Development is a growing also boasts of factories of Shahi Exports capital subsidy to encourage research segment in the region. Unix Stitch and Page Industries and there is still & development, exemption from stamp Machines, a Surat based manufacturer scope for new units. duty, refund of land conversion fine and of embroidery machines with several One of the basic reasons for shifting many more based on zones classified installations and a dedicated service is the rising operating costs and as backward zone, most backward centre in Bangalore is very upbeat competition for labour in the city. zone, and industrially developed as there is an increasing demand Considered one of the stalwarts of zone. Mandya, Chitradurga, Tumkur, for innovative embroidery solutions the Indian garment exports industry, Shimoga districts have benefited from in the city. “Earlier many of the K Mohan Exports in an effort to expand the classification of most backward value-added needs were outsourced has been considering the setting up of zone, attracting good incentives. The but now companies are investing in manufacturing facilities on the outskirts various incentives offered for setting in-house capacities to control quality of the city. “Plans are ready in place up a factory in these regions range and design,” says Radheshyam for expansion, but we have to do our between 15-20 per cent. From minimum Kumawat, Business Development due diligence in terms of selecting the wage point of view, these zones have Manager, Unix Stitch Machines. region for a facility as it not only takes difference of Rs. 6 to Rs. 10 even in the

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 21 leadstrategy

Abhishek Kumar, Co-Founder Apparel K H Mogali, Keshav Anand, Vineet Saraogi, Lal Sudhakaran, Head – Manufacturing Consulting & Sourcing Services Director, Next Fashion Apparel Owner, Seven Hills International Director, Mittal Clothing & MGE, Madura Garments “In Bangalore, the “We have no issues “It is not easy to “How do we create “If I look at where average machine regarding labour sustain a new an eco-sphere where Madura should take its utilization is around in Belgaum and we factory away there is at hand all manufacturing next to 60-80 per cent while in also got 20 per cent from a developed the outsourcing achieve my targets set the outskirts it is 100 refund on whatever manufacturing base.” options that go into for 2020, Orissa seems per cent.” investment we made.” manufacturing.” to be the best option.”

daily wage of helper which creates big second costliest city in Karnataka and For some, it makes logical sense that difference in final costing. quite far from Bangalore.” Belgaum instead of going too far away from Abhishek Kumar, Co-Founder & also has a plant of Forbes Campbell Bangalore, to move to a different state Principal Consultant of Bangalore Knitwear while its corporate office is for a fresh start. Many companies based Apparel Consulting & Sourcing in Bangalore. Likewise, Sandur too are now exploring border states Services which is supporting some has a few garment factories like Sujata of Karnataka like Tamil Nadu and companies in establishing units in the Garments, which is running a factory Andhra Pradesh. Hindupur, located in interiors feels that these zone wise of 100 machines working for ITC. The Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh, is incentive schemes play an important company has its own training centre to the second largest city after Hyderabad role in the development of upcoming train the workers. and a mere 100 km from Bangalore; hubs and though it may take few Yet, not all companies are convinced this city with a fully developed SEZ has years to show results, the region will that moving out of Bangalore is a attracted investments from companies definitely attract investors. “Attrition good idea, some like Seven Hills like Texport Garments and Nuvo Craft and absenteeism are less in small International have invested in (started here 1.5 years before). places compared to Bangalore city reasonably sized space in already Moving further beyond, Orissa seems which is also a good advantage for these saturated areas like Peenya, for the that a hotspot for investment today manufacturing units,” says Abhishek. advantage that it provides. “It is not and Shahi, after fully exploring the According to industry watchers, Tiptur easy to sustain a new factory away opportunities in Karnataka has (147 km from Bangalore), Mysore (143 from a developed manufacturing base recently made a move to establish km from Bangalore) and Kolar (67 km as there is much cost, time and effort is a unit in the state. A study done from Bangalore), which already has required to create trained workforce, by StitchWorld, analyzing 113 a unit of Gokaldas Exports and those while skilled workers are relatively locations across India to determine of some other companies have good easier to hire in the city, and though the competitiveness of any location scope for development. Moving beyond they may cost more in terms of wages, for running a garment manufacturing the outskirts, factories are coming up they give better efficiencies and are factory and/or exporting unit, in places like Belgaum (500 km from more attuned to the requirements of showed that Bhubaneswar in Bangalore) and Sandur (300 km from the industry,” reasons Keshav Anand, Khordha, a district in Orissa, has Bangalore) also. However, it is also seen Owner, Seven Hills International. the highest Apparel Sourcing Index that the factories coming up in these Adding to the line of thought, Vineet as it offers a good infrastructure places are mostly those of domestic Saraogi, Director, Mittal Clothing, and logistics are also taken care of, players, as exporters require strategic who is very sure that his expansion will while Welspun Anjar SEZ Limited, locations to suit both buyer and be within the city argues, “How do we in village Chaudwar, Cuttack, Orissa shipping needs. Sharing his experience create an eco-sphere where there is at comes out to be the second best of working at Belgaum, K H Mogali, hand all the outsourcing options that location for both manufacturing and Director, Next Fashion Apparel, which go into manufacturing, from ancillary sourcing. “If I look at where Madura is supplying to many top brands says, companies supplying trims and should take its manufacturing “We have no issues regarding labour accessories to washing and logistics. next to achieve my targets set for in Belgaum and we also got 20 per One has to be very self-sufficient to 2020, Orissa seems to be the best cent refund on whatever investment sustain in isolation.” Then of course option,” concludes Lal Sudhakaran, we made; so we see enough scope in there are issues of middle management Head – Manufacturing & MGE, Belgaum despite the fact that it is the and other administrative challenges. Madura Garments.

22 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 23 Apparel Online India Tex-file

The Next Level in Technical Textiles for Indian Investors • Application of newer fibres like cotton for technical textiles • Product innovation and performance driving growth of technical textiles • Biomedical textiles is a fast-growing market segment in the technical textiles

round 70 per cent of braiding, knitting, non-woven...), technical textiles today including finishing processes are produced with man- (dyeing, printing, coating, made fibre and filaments laminating...), technical textile A producers are able to propose and the cost of these fibres and filaments in India is around 20-30 textile solutions offering the per cent higher, as compared mechanical, exchange or to China and Indonesia. On the protective properties suited to the other side, India produces nearly specific needs of the final users. 39 million bales of cotton every With the new Government coming year, and cotton is the backbone in there is fresh optimism for the of the Indian textile sector. So technical textile industry, as it rather than keeping the “herd committed to boost the industrial mentality”, Indian entrepreneur sector overall. “There are big should explore options in cotton plans being chalked out for the fibre, feel experts. The view agriculture industry to adopt was endorsed at a recently new technologies, to upgrade held Indutech conference in the infrastructure of different Coimbatore where T Rajkumar, segments and make the rail, road, Chairman of Southern India air and marine transport services Biomedical textiles – A fast Over the last five years, as the awareness of Mills’ Association (SIMA) comparable to the best in the strongly suggested that companies growing market technical textiles grows, so has the market size world. Environmental concerns segment involved in technical textiles will give the required direction to and the Indian technical textile industry which is should invest in cotton-based all the development that is bound currently estimated at US $ 14 billion and likely technical textiles. “Considering to happen,” points out Samir to reach a level of US $ 32 billion by 2023 as the the large amount of funds needed Gupta of Textech India. for non-woven manufacturing Government of India is giving a major thrust on Recently, marking Arvind’s entry and lack of technical know- into nonwoven fabrics, Arvind the development of the technical textile industry. how, entrepreneurs should OG Nonwovens Pvt. Ltd., a joint focus on cotton-based technical With major investments being made, India is set venture between Arvind Ltd. textiles and SIMA along with to play a huge role in the global market along and OG Corporation of Japan, the Indian Technical Textiles with China. Both the countries will not only opened its manufacturing facilities Association which would help near Ahmedabad. “The new create a huge demand for technical textiles but companies investing in expanding facility is a big milestone for cotton-based technical textile also show growth in production at a higher rate. Arvind, and we are looking to products,” he said. This holds immense potential for all investors aggressively grow this vertical and offers a compelling reason for buyers and The importance of technical with our Japanese partners. textiles cannot be undermined, sellers of technical textiles to keep their focus Beyond this, we are also looking as they bring a functional answer to invest in other technologies on India and develop a rational strategy to to a wide range of specific and product categories in seize the emerging opportunities. Many experts requirements namely lightness, the non-woven space going feel that besides medical, protection, home resistance, reinforcement, forward,” stated Punit Lalbhai, filtration, fire-retardancy, furnishings and automobile, the Indian technical Executive Director of Arvind conductivity, insulation, flexibility, Ltd. and CEO of the Advanced textile industry should go beyond and explore absorption and so on. Thanks to Materials Division. Bangalore newer product categories like bio medical the nature of the fibres (polyester, based Sankhla Group, known products and create its niche by producing polypropylene, viscose, cotton, for its polymer compounds and carbon, glass, aramid, etc.), cables since 1984, has also cotton-based technical textiles as the country is as well as the choice of the diversified into manufacturing cotton rich and conventional textile companies most relevant manufacturing technical textiles where fabrics can also easily foray into the segment. techniques (spinning, weaving, are produced for end applications

24 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 tex-file

The types of fibres and  By diversifying fabrics normally used in towards non-woven biomedical applications are non-resorbable fibres. It technical textiles offers four textile technology and forging global platforms like braiding; partnerships with weaving; knitting; and nonwovens. All of these counterparts shall platforms are expandable give impetus to the based on the requirements growth of technical of the application. textiles. Vertically integrated supply such as luggage, filter bags, Pro-tech, Sport-tech to mention surgical procedures, prevent chain and diverse body wear, camouflage a few; it’s now time to get infections and help speed a range of products as the main suits, tarpaulins, awnings deeper into each segment. The patient’s healing. and canopies. term medical textiles can be factors expected The types of fibres and fabrics to contribute to considered to be the umbrella normally used in biomedical the growth of the Product innovation that covers all textile structures applications are non- industry. and performance in the medical industry, from resorbable fibres which include driving growth of surgical gowns and external polyethylene terephthalate  Technical textiles technical textiles wound dressings to textile (PET) and high-tenacity PET, are predominately Product innovation and structures that are intended for polyethylene (PE), polypropylene characterized as performance attributes surgical implantation. However, (PP), polyether ether ketone having specific remain primary drivers internationally “biomedical (PEEK) and nylons. Biomedical performance- for woven fabrics in these textiles” is a subcategory of based attributes offers four textile technology markets, often at the expense medical textiles that narrows the and typically must platforms like braiding; weaving; of non-textile products that field down to those applications meet established the technical textiles are that are intended for active tissue knitting; and nonwovens. All of performance replacing. Advances in fibre, contact, tissue regeneration or these platforms are expandable specification criteria. yarn, fabric and manufacturing surgical implantation. based on the requirements Tensile strength and of the application. A knit technologies continue to Biomedical textiles is a fast- elongation, weight, structure can be designed to be elasticity, resistance lead to new application growing market segment in strong and porous for hernia to flammability and opportunities and are helping the technical textiles industry. fabric manufacturers meet applications or lightweight and high heat levels, Since the mid-1960s, the moisture-transport the continuously expanding medical field has been using less porous for cardiovascular technical objectives and applications. Woven structures capabilities, biomedical textiles products durability, and expectations of their customers. can incorporate high-strength for vascular grafts and heart weatherability are As more advanced technical PE fibres for orthopaedic valve sewing cuffs. The current some examples textile concepts are realized wave of uses is coming as a applications. These new of attributes that and publicized, customer’s result of new fibres and new fibre technologies, along could be included expectations will only continue construction methods of the with advances in modern in a technical to grow. textile materials. Innovative textile processing systems, textiles performance As of now, technical textiles applications are found both will continue to expand the specification. are categorized in about inside and outside the human application possibilities within 12 segments like Medi-tech body. Biomedical textiles can the biomedical/biosurgical (medical textiles), Geo-tech, eliminate the need for persistent textile marketplace.

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 25 Tex-file

ASSOCHAM signs MoU with China to promote SMEs Tex Find SSOCHAM and Small India-China bilateral trade India to China reached US $ 898 A& Medium Enterprises reached US $ 75.5 billion in million. The delegation also (SMEs) of China have inked 2011-12 with India’s trade focused on strengthening ‘smart five MoUs in different sectors, deficit of about US $ 40 billion. manufacturing’, solar energy, including textiles and machines In 2013-14, India’s trade deficit green houses/technologies, for garment industry, to with China stood at US $ 36.21 railway infrastructure promote and help the SMEs billion. This trade deficit can be supply stations buildings, to exchange technologies reduced to sustainable levels and escalators for railway and enter into joint venture through more exports from metro stations. partnerships. With the growth India to China as well as by ASSOCHAM will be holding a in bilateral trade between India China’s investing in building summit for Chinese companies and China in the last few years, manufacturing capacities in to invest in India. ASSOCHAM many Indian companies have India. Today, China ranks 31st shall also be organizing two started setting up Chinese among countries contributing exhibitions in two provinces Textiles change operations to service both FDI to India with current FDI of China in Guangdong and colour when lit their Indian and MNC clientele inflows from China standing at Chengdu during October on fire in China. US $ 575 million while that from this year. etting inspired from Gthe popular Hunger Games novels, Lauren E-commerce as key growth driver for textile companies Bowker, a designer, has Mafatlal organized first created a range of clothing, ever mega exhibition at called Air, which are meant its Nadiad unit to be lit on fire. Combining afatlal organized first her interests of fashion ever mega exhibition- and chemistry, she has M cum-booking conference at made garments which not its Nadi Mafatlal Industries only look beautiful and recently. The company theatrical, but also use hosted more than 200 dealers fabrics that contain inks from Mumbai, Gujarat, that change colour when Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu burned. Bowker along during the exhibition cum with her studio team booking event. The new spent ten years developing range of products on display the chemical compound extile companies are Lifestyles too have been selling included fancy suiting, yarn that makes up this ink Tincreasingly making their products through their dyed shirting, linen and that can then be injected use of their own websites as own websites. Companies blended fabrics in an array into garments. e-commerce platform with believe that while initially online business are becoming readymade garments will grow of colours, Rubia, ready to The ink reacts to rising inevitable these days. Many rapidly on their e-commerce stitch gift packs, high quality temperature, due to which textile players are looking to platforms, gradually other of fibre dyed school uniform the colour changes more build up consumer loyalty by textile products may gain fabric. MIL also launched its quickly when it comes selling on their websites and traction too. Arvind is also new premium linen range in contact with fire. The establish a direct connect with buoyant about its initiative and Bed & Bath collection resultant is a luminous their consumers. According that, according to Kulin which includes feather soft pattern created via the to industry players, the idea Lalbhai, Executive Director at pillows and all season light flame’s trail, with brighter is to replicate the company Arvind Ltd., the company sees weight machine washable hues formed wherever owned exclusive brick-and- e-commerce as a key growth comforters during the the centre of the flame mortar store experience on the driver for the group and they conference at Nadiad. had reached. While internet. Buoyed by the success aim to be Rs. 1000 crore plus The company has vertically jackets yield bold results of e-commerce players like business in 3 years. integrated composite state- when burned, the fabric Jabong and Myntra, textile of-the-art facilities with the also reads temperature According to Sanjay Jain, companies like Arvind Ltd., TT latest technology, machinery and atmosphere during Managing Director of TT Ltd., Ltd. and Creative Lifestyles, and infrastructure. With an everyday usage. For they want their website to act among others are exploring the extensive dealer network, instance, during warmer not only as an e-commerce sales online market through their its products are available spring months, the tool but also as a branding and own e-commerce platforms. throughout India and also garments change to marketing tool. So far they were supplied to the customers brighter colours, whereas Arvind Ltd. has begun its own selling through their distributor and brands in the domestic in winter the colours are e-commerce initiative through network. They will continue to and overseas market. muted and dark. its start-up Arvind Internet invest in promotion and search Ltd. (AIL), TT and Creative engine optimization (SEO).

26 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 27 27 Apparel Online India HOME FASHION FUTURE

New Directions for Home Furnishing in Sub Continent: Will it impact each other’s market share?

and products de-specced to lower thread counts and more affordable. Pakistan and Bangladesh filled that gap while India didn’t. Eventually we lost the global business share and companies like Hanung and Alok became redundant to changing global needs. Companies like Welspun maundered themselves with the situation (more than 30 per cent of their production is in competition with same that Pakistan and Bangladesh are conventionally strong into),” says Manoj Pande, Manoj Pande, Nurin Khan, Merchandising Manager Nurul Islam, Chairperson, Oliver Raeuchle, MD, TexKom BD Ltd. Managing Director, India Managing Director, India TEXLYN (Home Furnishing), Li & Fung Noman Group of companies TEXLYN, Delhi, a buying house having offices in many countries. Difference of product strength is a o doubt orders in home crucial factor which creates niche Indian apparel export segment for all three for each manufacturing base. As countries are increasing, is already facing stiff of today, India has edge in 100 Nbut there is no consensus per cent cotton high thread count, competition from on how this growth could affect the (above T-300) sheets/top of bed Bangladesh, and with the business of the other in the coming items, hand quilts, (2 ply, jacquard, years. Tahir Jahangir, Chairman of country simultaneously combed), bath rugs and woollen Hala Enterprises Limited, Lahore carpets while Pakistan is strong growing its home (Pakistan) and Central Chairman on low thread count (up to T-200) furnishing industry on a of Towel Manufacturers Association sheets – especially prints, panel 20 per cent yearly basis, is of Pakistan says, “The suppliers prints and good quality reactive in most other countries are unable print is strong strength. Pakistan there also a threat to India’s to compete with us on costs, as we is also good in Jersey knit sheets home textile industry, is gain on better design, quality and and low end towels (up to 16s something many are asking. other skills; however with market single OE and Carded), following size increasing, all three countries the same, Bangladesh is also good Not to forget that Pakistan will gain market share.” According in printed and solid sheets and is already offering world to Pakistan Bureau of Statistics, bedding but less than India and acceptable products in it saw increase of 6.45 per cent in Pakistan. However, it is as good home textile export in 2013 and in low-end towels and kitchen home, grabbing important out of the numerous products the towels. In anything that involves market share. For Indian towel segment noticed growth of craftsmanship and manual/semi- home furnishing industry, 7.10 per cent. manual work, as also better quality growing business in both Many industry watchers in India towels, India is leading. are of the opinion that if new Bangladesh and Pakistan Factors behind the product strength entrants don’t venture into the home are something that nobody can could act as spoilers… segment to make the product basket ignore like Bangladesh has a Apparel Online explores more versatile, in the long run, disadvantage as it does not access core strength of each of Pakistan and Bangladesh will be a to cheap cotton and cotton yarn challenge for the country. “Pakistan which constitutes 50 to 70 per cent these three countries and and Bangladesh often negotiate a of the cost in towels. “Pakistan is what will be the future better deal (than India) with EU good in lower count (165-350) sheet; growth areas… and get duty advantage privileges. strong control over printing gives Further, since global recession it good orders from US as well as the retail prices have gone down in Europe from buyers like Ikea,

28 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 ‘Button’ up with leaders in Accessories.... Primark, etc. Being a cotton rich Ikea, H&M, Walmart, Target in both regions, is another edge etc., the company has capacity for Pakistan but it does well in of 10 million units per day of polly cotton also. Bangladesh bed sheets, bed covers and has the advantages of having table covers. all things under one roof be it Many buying offices in the complete processing or even Bangladesh are now looking at the manufacturing of packaging home segment more aggressively. material, it gives them a lot “Home furnishing is now growing of cost advantages. India is fast in Bangladesh and we source lacking here as Indian mills too mostly quilt covers, towels, outsource many things,” says bath robes and handicrafts. Nurin Khan, Merchandising From India, we are sourcing Manager (Home Furnishing), different qualities of bed sets; Li & Fung, Gurgaon. we are especially active in the Apart from cheap labour, house part of India (Mumbai, comparatively new setup of Ahmedabad), while from Karur machines and state-of-the-art we take all kinds of jacquard production is also an advantage beach towels, the complete for Bangladesh. Nurin adds, terry business, kitchen items, that Li & Fung sources US $ 250 co-ordinate, kitchen programs. million worth of home textile Whereas Pakistan is concerned, products out of India for our priority is entry level various retailers terry towels and bed- across the globe, As sets,” says Oliver the mainstay of political Raeuchle, MD, their sourcing conditions in TexKom BD Pakistan are a being for the Ltd. PRODUCT RANGE major concern, India Satin Woven Label US Market, will gain in quality No doubt, Taffeta Woven Label while from towel business while Bangladesh Woven Edge Label Pakistan it is Bangladesh will affect Embossed Label is growing Laser Cut Woven Label near about US Pakistan in lower most in terry Laser Cut Fabric Applique $ 100 million. thread count Transfer Print Labels / Printed Labels towels. towel segment Jacquard Laces Fabric Considering and in 2012-13 the Embroidery / Badges Bangladesh is a Polyester Button country exported US Printed Polybags much newer foray as far $ 159.43 million worth Sewing thread as home textiles is concerned, of towels having seen a 3 times Plastic Hangers / Wooden Hangers Paper Bags the figure has already gone up growth in a decade, yet due to Twill Tapes (Printed / Plain) to almost US $ 50 million, which product strength India is quite Gross Grain / Draw Cords is impressive. Heat Transfer Design ahead in the segment with value Packing Boxes There are few companies in added products like embroidered PVC Weilded Badges Snap Fasteners Bangladesh doing very well towels, other key products Transparent PVC Stickers in various products of home are designer cushion covers, Snap Fasteners Tissue Papers furnishing and catering to the kitchen and bath collections Back Support / Collar Pattie top brands with their awesome a speciality of the country. Crochet Laces Rubber / Synthetic Badges infrastructure and capacities. Experts feel that these types of Barcode Sticker / Tag’s Noman Group, Producing 70 products will remain the strength Header Cards / Inserts tonnes of terry towels with of India because that’s a low Leather Patches Hang Tags-Zip Pullers specialty in multi-fibre towels. volume, high effort and high Nurul Islam, Chairperson, margin business and big mills in Noman Group of companies Pakistan as well as Bangladesh says, “To face strong competition are so far not eyeing that from Pakistan and India, we segment. As political conditions have done heavy investments in Pakistan are a major concern, and using latest airjet looms India will gain in quality towel Works : B-92, Mayapuri Indl. Area, Phase-1, New Delhi 110 064. from Tsudakoma, Toyota and business while Bangladesh will Ph. +91-11-28117870 / 71 / 72, 41845536 / 38, affect Pakistan in lower thread Fax: 91-11-28115947, 28112957 Dornier so as to manufacture E-mail: [email protected] the best quality.” Working with count towels.

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 29 valueaddition

Handmade techniques re-surfaced by designers Made commercial by exporters and machine manufacturers

With growing popularity and application of hand-done techniques amongst Indian and International designers, exporters have been attempting to offer parallel designs and techniques in the mass market as well. But owing to the high production and value addition cost involved in this process, exporters are tweaking the handmade techniques to suit the price and design requirements of the export as well as domestic buyers. Supporting exporters in this endeavour, are machine manufacturers who have introduced a range of machineries which not only mimic techniques, be it hand embroidered bullion knots, print looking intricate appliqué or obscurely laid cords and piping, to the closest possible variant but also translate them into commercially viable pieces.

eing known for its gathering, pleating and pintucks, rich tradition of hand we have created an exquisite B embroidery and fabric amalgamation of cord embroidery manipulation techniques, and piping. We have tried to create India has been able to inspire multi-layers of cording through designers to offer colourful hand stitching and turpai. The varieties. Year on year, designers garments are garnished with not only keep on launching hand textured cord embroidered based collections with a crafted rhombus booties and acanthus touch, but they also continue to motifs entirely made out of cords.” impart newness into the age-old Now to make this complex cording techniques to popularize Indian a commercially viable technique, strengths. With consumers showing HCA offers a range of attachments a lot of interest in adding designer and machines. “We are offering labels into their daily wardrobes various different combinations amid a restricted point of purchase, in machines, but multipurpose exporters seek opportunity in this machines are only suitable for scenario and adapt the hand-crafted people who do not need high designs into machine made. Though production. We also provide dori the point that can be argued upon making and pintucking presser here, is that the handmade and foots with 3 to 4 inlays to facilitate designer techniques have their own multiple dori application at once,” charm and beauty and machinery says Anil Anand, MD, HCA. can never replace them, but with Another designer, Rimzim Dadu, state-of-the-art machines offered created breathtaking 3D textures by technology providers like HCA, with twisted chiffon cords and IIGM, Lasser Swiss Embroidery attached the cords of different Machines and others, which can sizes in distinct patterns. The give appealing results, automation chiffon chords were stitched from of value addition is the growing the middle and placed as jackets trend of tomorrow. and pallus in saris. Sandeep Chopra, Owner, Kadambari Cord Work International, exporter of Drawing inspiration from the Raag readymade garments, talking about Bhinha Shadja of Hindustaani how the same can be duplicated Classical music, Vaishali S took through fringing said, “Synthetic the viewer on a pensive and wistful rayon or viscose yarns and cords journey with her A/W’14 collection. are braided together to achieve Elaborating on her collection, she the similar effects. Another Manish Arora’s tribal brides with 3D sequin and Swarovski crystals said, “Moving ahead from the basic interpretation can be created while fabric manipulation techniques like weaving as well, when the warp

30 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 31 Apparel Online India valueaddition

yarns can be left loose for a burnout and foil prints. We are distance of 4-5 inches before generating prints which create another round of weft yarns a trompe l’oile effect and look is inserted.” like brocades or jacquards”. Matting Tribal Embroidery Taking inspiration from the mat and Sequencing making technique from villages, Staying true to his fascination of Nida Mehmood developed neon brights, metallic tints and a new innovative technique elaborate headgears, Manish of manipulating fabric called Arora’s tribal brides showcased matting. In this technique she a balance of psychedelia interlaced fabric stripes in a and femininity in his India plain weave in such a way that Couture Week 2014 collection. after interlacing all the stripes, Getting inspired from multiple Taping dress by Rekognation they together create imagery sources, like the Bulgarian in unison. The resultant bride, the Peacock Room in fabric looks a lot like a mat, Castello di Sammezzano in With consumers created with bamboo stripes Italy’s Tuscany region, the in rural areas. Mimicking a Japanese Tamari craft and showing a lot of similar effect through usage of the majestic crowns worn by interest in adding machinery, Sanjay, Director, historic monarchs, the designer designer labels Rekognation, has created presented garments with into their daily dresses entirely made out of iridescent multi-colour stripes, tapes. The company creates gold rexine embroideries wardrobes amid these dresses on specialized and 3D highlighted sequins. a restricted point machines which interlace Machine manufacturers like of purchase, tapes in multi-directional Krishna Engineers and ESC way to create a look similar are offering their Hot Spangle exporters seek to matting. Sanjay explaining fixing punching machine and opportunity in further said, “We have specially DESOS spangle setting machine this scenario and Cordwork by Vaishali S designed a machine in-house respectively, to cut down on the adapt the hand- to achieve different and unique time put in, into hand stitching value additions. There are these stones. The machinery crafted designs multi-head machines available provides a massive production into machine in the market, but I have speed of 800 spangles per made. And with got the machinery changed, minute and can stick multi- state-of-the-art and replaced the existing colour spangles and sequins embroidery heads with 6 with much ease. machines offered different heads giving me 6 by technology different outputs. Therefore, Pleat, please! providers giving you can get all the 6-techniques With packed together pleats in done simultaneous on the same appealing results, saris and kaftans, Kiran Uttam garment in different patterns.” Ghosh, presented to the world automation of a new innovative technique of value addition is Print Trompe l’oile pleating through her A/W’14 the growing trend Kiran Uttam Ghosh's version of pleated organza Charu Parasher, in her A/W’14 collection. Using organza as of tomorrow. collection created sheer a material, Kiran created a bodices, fitted toggle coats range of manipulated fabrics resplendent in rich silken attire by pinched and stitching the and “resham” patch work fabric in leheria technique and appliqué. The intricate which resulted into compactly appliqué with leaf and floral created pleats. The similar motives, highlighted with effect, though not so compact, thread and sequin embroidery can be created with heat setting projects, the look of embossed machinery on poly fabrics. A or printed brocade fabric. range of machine manufactures Mahavir Kankariya, Director, like Confident Engineering India Kankariya Textile Industries, Private Limited, Pack Pack India discussing about achieving Private Limited and Keenmark raised effect through rotary Inc. have installed a range of printing and digital printing heat setting machines in export Print looking applique by Charu Parasher says, “In rotary we are able houses to complete the need of to generate embossed, foam, the market for such effect.

32 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 33 Apparel Online India 34 Apparel Online India | AUGUST 1-15, 2014 AUGUST 1-15, 2014 | Apparel Online India 35 36 Apparel Online India RUNWAY TO RETAIL Prints that made it Big in 2014 After making a series of appearances on the recent runways, an interesting array of prints have managed to make it big on the retail shelves of global fashion brands, declaring 2014 as the year of prints and breaking out from the long drawn boredom of the plain solid colour blocking trend, ruling fashion for some time now… The fashion team at Apparel Online went hunting for the most selling, trendy prints of the year. From reviving some fashion classics, taking inspiration from latest super hit movies, looking at the dessert menus for ideas, to re-connecting with our tribes – the category of fashion prints seems to have wandered all over, bringing these popular five picks to the forefront…

o r l o n g , w e h a v e Fwondered where the pixel trend would finally lead us to… And in 2014, we finally have our answer. Matured into a fully grown lego style trend, a series of fashion forward retailers are rolling out collections with lego inspired prints. In bright and primary colours, the prints are all over on leggings, dresses and T-shirts, and are becoming LEGO more and more BRICKS popular post the recent ‘Lego movie’. Not only in clothes but equally big in accessories, from handbags to jewellery, these lego blocks are fascinating the adults more than kids. Also a hit for the latest 3D printing technique, even artists and graphic designers are picking up the style for street art and posters, sending a lego vibe all over.

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 37 ribal is definitely the mood Tof the coming winter. Not Indian and not even African, this time the tribal prints are all about the Native American. Very geometric and represented prominently as tiled shapes repeated to form unique patterns, is the key to this traditional trend. With a strong gypsy vibe attached to it, not only in front NATIVE open throws, AMERICAN but also in fitted shirt dresses, maxi dresses, jumpsuits and loose fitting tops, the trend is a refreshing take in the monotonous tribal category. Mostly in darker colour tones such as that of black and white, deep red, mustard and a variety of browns, the palette for fall is at large reserved and cozy, except a few exceptions of bright tribal colour palettes. Mara Hoffman

ashion has always been about Ftwo kinds of people. People who love the leopard print, and people who don’t. But this year, the timeless trend is back with a vengeance. Numerous retailers are experimenting with the leopard print in so many styles that even the non-lovers are falling in love with it. In body-con dresses, trench coats, knee l e n g t h f i t t e d Valentino skirts, knit tops and t- shirts, LEOPARD leggings, jackets LOVE and even in shoes and ballerina flats, the leopard print is hard to miss. Back in its original colour palette of brown and black, the trend is selling its best as a classic and not in colourful variations that were seen before. Brown and black leather complements the trend the most, making it look a lot more luxurious.

Donna Karan

38 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 rom the luxury desserts of a Fdreamy version of Paris, to the trendy racks of fast fashion retailers, French macaroons are the most recent fashion facades. In a fairy-tale like, faded pastel colour palette, from dresses to t-shirts, the macaroons are taking form of cute and contemporary novelty prints. The latest rage of creating and painting 'your PARISIAN own macaroons' MACAROONS among food stylists, is what is taking the trend forward as artists are working toward creating their own prints on macaroon bases. A trend to watch out for even in the next summer, macaroons are hard to resist and will be soon piling up from mass retailers to niche luxury brands, alike.

Burberry Prorsum

traditional Mexican art, A sugar skulls first appeared in 2013, with the sudden popularity of the Frida Kahlo inspired style. Since then skull prints have been marked with a steady presence in the global retail markets. No more gothic or ghostly in appeal, the trend is a lot more creative with interesting prints being developed by painting each skull with a different SUGAR face art. Adding SKULLS unique artistic patterns from floral to tribal, the redundant skull is being innovated to unlimited varieties, and post the recent Star War release, it is finally time for some Star War sugar skulls in 2014. As strong and trendy graphic prints on tops, t-shirts and sweatshirts, both teen and adult markets are embracing these skulls with open arms.

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 39 fashionbusiness

A Look At What Is Selling For S/S’15 As Orders Start Coming In…

ashion weeks all over basically wholesalers and they prefer the world display lesser inventory in hand, so though they their collections, two keep the sampling process running, seasons in advance. orders come in October/November,” For any given chimes in Manish Jain, MD, Delta season,F in a traditional buying Sourcing, a Delhi based buying office. cycle a manufacturer receives Another reason that this shift took place orders from most brands, could be that buyers want to wait till six months before the they are positive of what will delivery date to keep sell in the market and keeping Middle of September three months (120-190 dead stock would only increase typically marks the days approximately) other respective costs. Sameer commencement of for production in their Thapar, MD, Montrose, a the most hectic buying respective factories buying office dedicated to period for exporters and another month US customers, and who has for the Spring/Summer for shipment by sea. noticed the visible move in the The merchandise time period for buying now collections, yet with each then takes 4-5 more than ever adds, “Indian passing year buying is months to reach exporters are still not serious moving nearer to the the warehouse and with their commitments and shelf time, as many another month deadlines, with lead times retailers and brands is utilized for getting shorter, I can only are looking to save distribution to the advice them to improve or warehousing and related various stores or be prepared to lose orders costs, while also sourcing outlets. In lieu of this to more professional time plan, orders for manufacturing bases.” only after being very the Spring/Summer ’15 sure of what will sell. collections should be Products in While some buyers have received in the months demand… placed orders, many of September to October Whatever be the buying others are in the pipeline, so that the collection reaches period, India is always but the demands that the selling portal by March or preferred for fashion have emerged for S/S’15 April. Respectively, Autumn/ products and exporters are are now sealed… while Winter ’15-16 orders should be ready with collections in advance expected to come in by May to comfort is still the key to present to their buyers who, June so the product reaches the based on their business model feature in demand for stores by November or December. and market positioning, place the season, feminine Some argue that these months, orders accordingly, giving exporters details like pleating and predetermined for buying, have anything from the traditional 120 flaring is popular too. A witnessed a slow but steady days to a more fashion current 40 sportier edge can be shift. Various reasons are cited days for delivery. For S/S’15 most seen in the dresses and for this change, one being the cost of the European wholesalers have transparency, through that is borne by the buyer to store already placed orders. Mukesh fabrics, reigns over merchandise in the warehouse. To cut Kumar, Owner, Mahesh Exports who is dealing with various wholesalers in shiny surfaces… back on this expenditure and the cost (direct and indirect) that is incurred Europe talked enthusiastically about the while transporting goods from the current demand coming from Europe. dock to the warehouse, buyers now “Printed dresses in cotton-voile, georgette prefer to carry out their buying closer and chiffon are in demand, especially in to the season so that the goods can be miniature florals. Other than that, ponchos delivered directly to the stores from the and palazzo pants have been ordered docks. This process of cross-docking in shades of lime, peach, sky blue, ruby not only streamlines the supply chain red and grass green,” he shares. While but reduces labour, inventory handling trends like wide legged pants, miniscule and warehousing costs. “Our clients are Altuzarra florals and shirtdresses might seem a little

40 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 fashionbusiness

passé and done-to-death, there was respite in side slit skirts, panelled flared skirts knee- length dresses with big borders in intricate lace or neck and hem detailing in crochet that was in demand at Manya Creations. “Orders have started coming in and by the end of September the flow should be even faster,” says Vinod Mongia, Proprietor, Manya Creations. For some exporters, orders have yet to come in and it is the month of October that holds more significance now. Agreeing to this is Sangeeta Jain, Proprietor, Kuttu International, “Even though Burberry Prorsum DKNY Giambattista Valli Diane von Furstenberg some of our buying has started, October is the month when maximum of our orders are placed since that is when rompers in chiffon and voile with knife pleated detailing, be reflected through mesh and buyers fly down to check out the seem to be doing well too,” she wrap skirts with slits – both crochet. The pantone shades collections.” Concentrating on points out. short and long, matching sets that are predicted to define the the European and US markets, For those who have yet to zero and smart cropped shirts. Where summer of 2015 should revolve Sangeeta shares that the in on a winning collection, prints are concerned, an eclectic around monochrome, icy pastels crochet trends seems to have some of the big trends that are mix of floral with geometric and vibrant Native American picked up pace for cropped tops predicted to become the fastest would prove most popular and shades of vermilion red, burnt and shorts. “Jumpsuits and selling products are dresses transparency in fabrics would umber and forest green.

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 41 fashionresource

Burberry Issa allows Nadège Vanhee- collaborates customization Cybulski: Hermès with Nordstrom on winter new womenswear accessories designer aroline Issa has Cjoined hands with American department urberry’s Fall/ store, Nordstrom to Winter 2014- B release her collection. 2015 fashion show in The editor and CEO of February, unveiled Issa, Caroline has in the cashmere scarves past worked with the and ponchos with the brand on strategizing a models’ initials woven ecently, Chrisophe Lemaire project for them. The 25- in bold font. Now, the has exited from Hermès to piece collection includes brand has announced a R pursue his own label, and Nadège dresses, coats, jackets, new service that allows Vanhee-Cybulski has taken over cashmere sweaters, fans and clients to add his role at Hermès. Previously and blouses – almost their own initials to working at The Row and holding everything under the the winter accessories. backend positions at Maison sun. The Nordstrom In September 2014, Martin Margiela and Céline, Signature x Caroline Burberry will allow Vanhee-Cybulski is now, officially Issa will launch in 53 consumers to place the Artistic Director of Hermès’ Nordstrom stores and women’s ready-to-wear collection. on Nordstrom.com in February 2015; and the Fabric price ranges from US Manipulation Britney Spears to $ 225 to US $ 2,995. This trend includes debut lingerie line various techniques ritney Spears is all set to which create a release her own sleepwear 3-Dimensional surface B and lingerie line called, The on the base fabric Intimate Collection. She has using techniques like collaborated with Change Lingerie gathering, pleating, for this collection which will be smocking, wrinkling. released at the same time as New See, Acne Studios, York Fashion Week S/S’15. The Erdem, The Row, their order of their very singer has a number of beauty Alberta Ferretti, A.L.C., own versions of Fall/ care products and makeup, TSE and Mufler are a Winter 2014 ponchos attached with her name, including few of the designers and scarves, featuring eight perfumes too. A website has who presented their their own initials, online also been launched, specifically, Resort 2015 collections via Burberry. The winter for this retail venture called www. with heat set effects accessories will be intimatebritneyspears.com. on polyesters chiffons, customized with a choice ruffled nylon stripes on of three initial letters. skirts and tops, wrinkled knit long cardigans and smocked knit sweaters. COLOUR STORY A/W 2014-15 by FASHION FORWARD TRENDS Fabric manipulation is not only achieved PANTONE 18-4045 TPX through stitching techniques but can also be incorporated through PANTONE 16-3115 TPX washing and finishing methods like metal tint wrinkle coating on cottons, crocking finish PANTONE 18-1763 TPX of denims and heat setting on poly blends. These fabric folding and PANTONE 16-4020 TPX overlapping techniques give the silhouette a futuristic look. PANTONE 19-2630 TPX

42 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 43 43 Apparel Online India industrywire

WGS International: Expecting 60 per cent Holi Fashion adds new markets growth with new factory and new buyers and new buyers hough many medium-level of the company claims, “Our nown mainly for smaller exporters, tourist buyers Texporters still say that different ways of working and Kand recycled fabric, Pushkar – a growing apparel business has not picked up as professionalism are the main manufacturing hub, is witnessing continuous growth. Holi much as they were expecting, reasons for growth. We believe Fashion, among one of the exporters of Pushkar, has recently but simultaneously there are that buyer should make money added two new buyers while 3 more are in the pipeline; the a few companies that are before us, so we deliver in 30 company is quite positive to finalize expanding, and were sure to 40 days, in awesome designs orders with these buyers also. of good growth. Three years and at affordable prices which old, WGS have become “We have done trial orders International our forte.” successfully for Turkey and US is also one of based new buyers and reasonable Offering the companies size orders from these buyers are blouses, that have for sure. In the meanwhile sampling casual wear, added a new for Brazil, Australia and Chile based dresses and factory just buyers are already in full swing. other ladies four months As these markets are little new for wear at an ago. Spread us, it is a good learning as well as average FOB out over 450 growth avenue for us,” says Govinda of US $ 20, square yards, Khatri, one of the young faces of the the company the factory 25 years old family business. works with mix houses 100 kind of buyers, Offering variety of products in machines, Value added product of WGS International retailers Govinda Khatri, ladies wear, its average FOB is Holi Fashion bringing the as well as US $ 6 while some value-added total count to 250 machines. wholesalers. “Volume business products in chicken fabric starts from US $ 10 to 15. Having The company has also added 2 (average order of 2,000 pieces) 150 stitching machines the company works with 30 regular and new buyers, in addition to its 15 helps to make us cost-effective 20 floating buyers, who buy once a year. “We are comfortable buyers from Russia, US, Europe and we are working for with handling many buyers and small orders as we have good and South America. newer markets so we should team from within our family members and each is handling a Having a strong educational achieve at least 60 per cent different set of buyers,” says Govinda. background in finance, growth in the current fiscal,” Sourabh Malhotra, Director concluded Sourabh.

Mahalaxmi Inc. starting a new factory in Bangalore

rowth and expansion are The company Gpriority for many companies has an edge today. 12 years old Mahalaxmi Inc., having its registered office manufacturing in Mumbai, fabric manufacturing different product in Surat and garment factory in categories like Bangalore with 250 machines, is men’s & boys’ adding a new factory with another 250 machines also in Bangalore shirts, T-shirts, for which the production is ladies tops, expected to start in November. skirts, pyjama Working in exports for Smiles sets, children’s Fashion Corporation, Millenium garments, Clothing Inc, Limited Too Inc. as well as in the domestic market sportswears in for Pantaloons and Aditya Birla Praful Shah, GM (R) and Sehull Jain, Director, Mahalaxmi Inc. good quality. Group, the company produces men’s and women’s wear both for are investing Rs. 8 crore in this units for both segments. As this year.” The company is doing buyers in UK, Europe and US and new factory and it will help us market is good both at national well in the fabric manufacturing top brands/retailers in India. in exports as well to meet our and international level, we are segment and produces 1 million Praful Shah, GM of the company domestic demand because we hopeful to get good orders. At metres per month, mainly informed Apparel Online, “We will now separate the production least 20 per cent growth is sure chiffons and georgette.

44 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 45 Apparel Online India indiacanvas

Serious visitors at Knitshow proved that Tirupur is back on track

he stalwarts of the industry domestic players like Profit Knit Every stakeholder in the while visiting the fair and many others like them are Texpressed satisfaction at the working on their expansion plans. industry be it jobworker, way Tirupur was bouncing back. This growth is also luring few new exporter, buying house, N. Chandran, Chairman & MD, players like Arise Fabrics, which domestic brand or the Eastman Exports was particularly started their fabric business just 6 happy with the way the Tamil Nadu months back with an installation of technology providers Government was supporting the 15 circular knitting machines with and trims supplier, all industry. “Though labour shortage an investment of Rs. 4 crore. are quite positive and and skill development challenges Reflection of these enthusiastic are a major concern, but the way sentiments and growth was clearly enthusiastic about the the Government has put forward seen in the happy smiles of the improving market, order schemes to induct fresh talent exhibitors. L. Shahabudeen of positions and overall into the apparel industry through Best Colors, Tirupur offering sponsored programs, the future digital printing solution was upbeat, business environment. seems brighter,” he said. Raja M “Response for digital printing is Many are investing Shanmugham, Partner, Warsaw quite good as it is next generation International added that though technology. Our concept of low- or thinking for the Tirupur is getting more orders cost and high-end product attracts same to encash on this compared to last year, it has much the garment manufacturers.” The positive sentiment. more potential for growth. Some company also offers inks which exporters felt that the increase are near about the same cost as Exporters are happy in business is more due to global those used for screen print. Well because on one hand events, than Tirupur, bouncing known company DCC launched a Europe is improving back. “We have seen the impact of printing machine of MNR which is changing conditions in Bangladesh the combination of two machines and on the other with and China, as some orders are which also exposes after printing the appreciation of the shifting from there. The favourable and saves labour and film cost. In dollar they are getting dollar-rupee exchange rate is fact screen printing has deep roots another help, increasing business in Tirupur but now digital print is the currency benefit. by 20 per cent more than last also on the move and companies are In the meanwhile the year,” shared Ramesh R, CEO, putting efforts for it. domestic market has SNQS International. Both A K With garment export now Saminathan, Director, Rhythm becoming more and more design- developed into a highly Knit India and N Kalaivanan, driven, technology companies potential business. The CEO of Hedonist International are coming forward with upbeat sentiments of the agreed with the same. Middle level solutions to help them in growth. exporters like Wintex Exports, Kothari Info-Tech, Mumbai shares industry were visible at the recently concluded Knitshow. While for many participants it was their first step to explore Tirupur directly, for many others an opportunity to showcase new products.... Team Apparel Online reports live from the venue… Jorge Fernandes, Export Manager, Sroque (R) with Ramesh Ganduri of Spoorthi Technologies are having 10 technicians across the country offering 24 hours technical support for their printing machine

46 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 indiacanvas

that they came to the fair to show we too keep adding new products the industry what they could offer with us.” The company also from the Ichinose range of digital displayed Knitech Industries’ printers. “Industry is reacting fast waste water treatment solution towards inkjet, this is a new field which is actually a compact here for T-shirt printing, still when solution for water management they compare cost, speed, which and has 8 installations of the is important in volume orders and same already. also the sustainability factor, most Along with both kinds of of the companies get interested. printing there was variety of Though we are showcasing in suppliers offering ERP, fabrics Tirupur for the first time, but in and accessories. ERP provider next few years we are looking for textile and home furnishing for some big demand for inkjet Rajiv Arora of Arun Electronics (extreme right) explaining visitors about his products industry Winsoft, Erode prints,” said Dr. Sanjiv Kamat, is now developing the same V-P of the company. for garmenting. “In next few The fair also witnessed good hours service,” informs Jorge months it will be ready; first companies in screen printing Fernandes, Export Manager, it will be offline and later it like Printex India, Sroque and Sroque and Ramesh Ganduri of will be cloud based,” informed few others. V. Sivasankaran, Spoorthi Technologies. M. Karthikeyen, CEO of the CEO, Printex India informed, company who noticed that Impress Apparel Machines, “Our machines are heavy and garmenting is growing in south Bangalore was another company long lasting and can stand up India. Offering textile costing quite positive about the market to any type of use in Indian and textile CAD software to over and the rising interest in printing conditions. Its maintenance is 300 customers, Winsoft has also solutions. “We have displayed here very easy and can print a variety made ERP installation at more a new heat transfer press which of designs, using all types of than 40 companies and is now was introduced just 4 months inks, no limitation of fabric, high planning to expand into the North back and has already sold 30 density, plastisol, discharge print; India market. such presses all over India, the price is also very competitive. Srinath Leminge, Director, Fabric manufacturers like Sri- demand in Tirupur is also good,” Impress Apparel Machines The brand from Poland is already Sri International, Noida, and said Srinath Leminge, Director, very popular in European and Sahib Synthetics, Ludhiana had Impress Apparel Machines. The US markets.” Sroque, Portugal participated for the first at the new machine has a dimension of with his Indian associate Spoorthi exhibition in Tirupur and both 24x30” which perfectly fits a T-shirt Technologies claimed that the were satisfied with the response. width and also has a price tag that technology in their machine is “Quality polyester which is our fits into the budget of everyone. totally different to others, lifting strength is in very good demand mechanism of the machine, Amma Colours, Tirupur which is but not available in Tirupur so indexing system and printing the Tirupur agent of Siliconi and we got very good enquiries here sizes which are very user-friendly. has specialization in all kinds of and even one company asked That’s why in last three years the textile screen printing inks and for huge order,” shares Rajesh company has sold more than materials is also witnessing the Mathur, Director, Sri-Sri 200 machines. In terms of upward movement of Tirupur. International. The company also power and air consumption and A T Ganeshan of the company offers polyester spandex (5 to 20 flexibility of the operations is informed, “We have noticed per cent) and has capacity of 120 Dr. Sanjiv Kamat, V-P Kothari Info- very sustainable. “In India we slowly that the growing demand Tech, displaying some of the samples tonne per month. Dealing majorly have 10 technicians offering 24 is changing into good business, so of digital prints with exporters Sahib Synthetics

Sanjay Aggarwal, GM – Marketing, Tex Zippers (2nd from left) with his team. Tex now wants to focus Rajesh Mathur, Director, Sri-Sri International (C) got good response for his polyester fabric on Tirupur in a bigger way

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 47 indiacanvas

offers polar fleece, velour, terry, region, “Every year we have achieved organic cotton and various kinds of 15-20 per cent growth in this market blends and strongly feels that Tirupur and now are expecting even more,” said is growth centre for them. “We supply Rajiv Arora of the company. Having our fur fabric to brands like Diesel, strong control over colour matching and Tirupur is already a big market and timely delivery, Rajiv adds that 90 for us as garment manufacturers here per cent of his customers are regulars are doing experiments with various and work with him on continuous base. fabrics, which is a positive for us,” Mina Trims, another company from says Jarseet Singh of the company. Delhi that was participating for the first The Kothari Fabs, Tirupur also time in Tirupur also met good visitors displayed all types of blends, offering who showed interest and appreciate whatever is in demand as ready stock. its products. “We will get the benefit of being direct manufacturers, as To catch the market, accessories visitors appreciated our variety, so we Sumanto Paul of Mina Trims (L) with his colleague companies are also geared up and will definitely get good orders from Tex Zippers having 12 offices in India here,” said Sumanto Paul, offering is now planning to have the office die casting trims and various types in Tirupur soon. Sanjay Aggarwal, of buttons. Just one month ago, the GM – Marketing of the company company introduced brushed effect informed, “In Tirupur market we finishing (mirror finish) and painted were not strongly present, but now bottoms as per the requirement of we want to focus on this market in a trend. Surya Super Threads was the bigger way. We have the product to main company offering embroidery cater to each segment, so we are not threads in 999 standard shades along. worried from competition, be it China It is working to improve capacity as or unorganized market.” It has just well as advance technology, Sunil K launched metallic and CSC zippers, Dalwani, Director informed, “In value also zippers with different coils and addition there are indications that tape designs, which attracted a lot of embroidery will soon pick up again, new customers. already users are asking for bigger Dipaen Kothari of The Kothari Fabs M. Karthikeyen, CEO, Winsoft Tirupur based ABC Tape offering all packing like 5,000 metres for longer kinds of high quality narrow fabrics runs, earlier it was of 2,000 metres.” specially woven jacquard elastics have Lotus Knits, with the experience of invested Rs. 2.5 crore in continuous 15 years in knitted fabric and various dyeing machine as Tirupur is growing finishes, entered two years ago in job and the company is looking for more work of digital printing. S. Senthil orders, and also to be more cost- Kumar, Managing Partner of the effective. M S Thangamuthu, Owner company giving digital printing to of the company said, “Now the market about 100 exporters is hopeful to is growing and demand for mat finish double the customer base in next one elastic is on the rise. We are sure for year. “Market for digital printing is good business.” It has capacity of 4 developing and it will take 2 years lakh metres per day. for more awareness. As product Netflex, Mumbai known for warp development will increase; it will knitted mesh, laces, crochet and ultimately grow.” It uses Japanese & industrial & printed fabric is also European technology & ink to give best M S Thangamuthu, ABC Tape (C) with his team coming up with a dyeing house with result in digital printing. an investment of about Rs. 5 crore. Another such job worker of washing, “As market is on growth path, we want printing with 5 various units as per to serve our clients more effectively the concept and specialization, Sonal, so this expansion will help us in the Tirupur is planning to get certified in same,” says Shailesh Joshi, Regional near future. “Though we are working Manager (South). He also indicated with 120 exporters having buyers like that cotton nylon lace fabric, lycra lace C&A, Tommy Hilfiger, etc. and using and jari may be good in demand in best available dyes and chemicals, coming days, as various buying houses saving water with latest technology are asking for the same. (90 per cent water is purified in our Working with the Tirupur market units), market growth is inspiring us for more than a decade, Arun for continuous improvement,” said Electronics, Delhi a quality G. Thiyagaraj, Owner of the group manufacturer of plastic seal tags and having capacity of 30,000 pieces per having specialization in customized day, he shared that burnout wash is a Faizal Malkhani (L) and Shailesh Joshi, Regional Manager (South) of Netflex services is quite optimistic about this major trend in demand nowadays.

48 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 indiacanvas

Uniformity and push for skill AMH-SSC development by focusing on the industry

e it the Centre or any State uniformity will increase the quality of Government, or the industry training and ultimately the employability itself, skill development of trainee, which will be a help for the is nowadays an issue in entire industry. the limelight. To address Along with this affiliation, hundred manyB of the shortcomings in the current per cent assessment of the trainees/ approach to skill development, Apparel students will be done by assessment Made-ups and Home Furnishings Sector agencies of AMH-SSC which will be Skill Council (AMH-SSC) has been another push for the quality of training. formed recently under the aegis of the “As of now, whoever is giving training is National Skill Development Corporation also assessing and issuing certificates (Public-Private Partnership body), which to the trainees but under AMH-SSC will prepare National Occupational training affiliation, we will conduct Standards for 45 job roles and train the exams and assess the trainees, so 2,470 trainers apart from assessing naturally each institute will pay more and giving affiliation to 164 training attention towards complete training institutes to train 1.98 million trainees process. Also, the certification, bearing in next decade. Apparel Online met Government of India emblem will be and discussed various aspects in detail issued to these trainees, rather than with Dr. Roopak Vasishtha, the newly Dr. Roopak Vasishtha, CEO, Apparel Made-ups and just an institute. In fact it will be a big appointed CEO who has spent 16 years Home Furnishings Sector Skill Council change to the existing system,” reasons with AEPC (1990-2006) as HR – Head. With a team of 8 senior Roopak. Implementation of the project Standardization and uniformity in is underway, and out of the total 164 persons, not from AEPC, various course curriculums, and training training agencies targeted, 13 is the goal the AMH-SSC has got a total patterns as per the actual needs of the for the current year, out of which 6 are industry is the biggest object for AMH- expected to be finalized very soon. funding of Rs. 5 crore for next SSC; for this various meetings and three years, out of which brainstorming sessions with the industry While there are numerous training Rs. 2 crore has been released. are taking place. “The industry is not agencies/options for the apparel segment in the home furnishing section, training The initiative has a revenue happy with whatever is being taught during training. Only 30 to 40 per cent of is almost a neglected area; but AMH- implication through affiliation what is being taught is exactly what our SSC will focus on it also and a separate and assessment fee. garment industry requires. With the help subcommittee has been created for the of factory owners and production teams, same headed by Amit Ruparelia of we have deleted and added many new Trend Setters, Mumbai. Out of the total things in the courses and conventional 45 job roles, 5 are for home furnishing teaching/training modules. In the last and out of 14 members of the governing 7 months, out of the total 45 job roles we council, 2 members are specifically from have completed 6 which cover about 70 the home furnishing industry. Separate per cent part of the apparel industry,” meetings will be held for the same with says an enthusiastic Roopak; 10 more focus on Jaipur, Panipat and Karur. qualification packs would be ready soon. Generally, new training initiatives do not Few of the brainstorming sessions took have a very positive image in industry place at Shahi Exports, Faridabad and and lack of transparency is a common Apparel House, Gurgaon, where even problem that leads to apprehension, the production supervisors took part but AMH-SSC claims to be committed to bring out what exactly is needed in to put each thing in the public domain training. Affiliated training providers through its website which will have and institutes (colleges/universities) complete details of need and availability of AMH-SSC must follow these newly of trainees at national level. “We will structured course curriculums and no maintain full transparency and complete other affiliation will be required for whatever targets we have set well them. To promote this affiliation, the in advance; this will not only create Government will not charge any service credibility, but also be a big booster for tax to organizations affiliated to the the apparel and home textile industry,” AMH-SSC. Roopak is sure that this concludes Roopak.

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 49 exportstatistics

TRADE SNIPS EU Import Analysis – Jan.-April 2014 India records double-digit growth in exports to the EU with 11.38% Vietnam: Textiles and Garment increase in value and 34.73% gains in volumes exports till August valued at US $ 13.65 billion The European Union continues to show signs of recovery with 10.21% increase in value and 16.82% rise in quantities during the first four months of the year, the average UVR for the period was Euro 15.84 Reaching US $ 2.2 billion in August, (per kg of fabric equivalent), down from Euro 16.79 (per kg of fabric equivalent) in the same period last the Vietnamese textiles and garment year. The apparel manufacturing destinations too registered positive gains in their exports in the first export turnover rose by 0.2% in comparison to July. The rise has four months of the year. While India clocked an amazing 34.73% growth in quantities, the values too facilitated a 19.7% year-on-year increased significantly by 11.38%.T here has been a drop in the average UVR from Euro 21.35 (per kg of increase, as the sector’s export for the fabric equivalent) in the same period last year to Euro 17.65 (per kg of fabric equivalent) this year. first eight months of 2014 are valued at US $ 13.65 billion, restoring garment and textiles to the first place among In a move that could impact tariffs, member companies call for adopting a single processing-manufacturing sectors in sourcing from the region, require a more flexible transformation model in the terms of export value after two years. a group of European retail approach from the EU on agreement, taking into account In order to scale newer heights, Dang clothing brands are calling Rules of Origin for apparel, the realities of global supply Phuong Dung, General Secretary for the elimination of duties as Vietnam has limited chains and the Vietnamese of Vietnam Textile and Apparel on apparel, along with more fabric production available industry,” added Armas. The Association (VITAS) pointed out that flexible rules of origin, as part to international brands and value of Vietnam’s garment the figure can be much higher if the of the free-trade agreement this could severely restrict exports to the EU increased backward linkages are stronger in the being negotiated between the ability to benefit from 7% year-on-year in 2013 to country as several FTAs are coming the European Union (EU) reduced tariffs, if the current US $ 2.4 billion, and jumped to Vietnam. Currently, Vietnamese and Vietnam. The European model for Rules of Origin is 25% in the first three months suppliers can meet only 1% of cotton Branded Clothing Alliance maintained. “We therefore of 2014. and 20.2% of cloth for the sector. (EBCA) represents around 60 Le Tien Truong, Director General of brands with a major European presence – including Inditex, the Vietnam Textiles and Garment APPAREL IMPORTS OF THE EU : SELECTED COUNTRIES Group (Vinatex) added that the pool of H&M, Levi Strauss, Gap Inc, % increase / skilled workforce accumulated over the Nike and VF Corporation. Jan-April - 2013 Jan-April - 2014 Country/ decrease years should now be transferred to a Outlining the case for the Category Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value modern production model to produce EBCA, its president Ignacio WORLD products of high-added value. Sierra Armas, who is also chief corporate officer of Knitted 647.07 9738.36 771.63 11032.10 19.25 13.29 Bangladesh: Total Exports Spanish retailer Cortefiel Woven 590.83 11047.89 674.48 11875.73 14.16 7.49 grow slower than anticipated Group, says the EU-Vietnam Total 1237.90 20786.25 1446.11 22907.84 16.82 10.21 As per the latest figures released FTA is “a priority for our CHINA companies”. by Export Promotion Bureau of Knitted 232.43 3261.40 266.00 3480.97 14.44 6.73 Bangladesh, the country’s overall EBCA members have Woven 258.90 4220.89 289.85 4377.53 11.96 3.71 export earnings, valued at US structured themselves to Total 491.33 7482.29 555.85 7858.51 13.13 5.03 $ 5,142.24 million in the first two operate with complex global INDIA months (July-August) of the current value chains spanning many Knitted 40.00 686.08 49.40 820.80 23.51 19.64 fiscal (2014-15), have grown by different countries, including Woven 34.76 909.93 51.32 956.89 47.64 5.16 2.07%, spearheaded by a modest Vietnam, and are therefore Total 74.76 1596.01 100.72 1777.70 34.73 11.38 performance of knitwear, leather and supportive of a global trade leather products. Despite the increase, policy environment which BANGLADESH it is to be noted that the figures are eases the operation of supply Knitted 156.65 1712.10 199.52 2114.00 27.37 23.47 lower than the target value of US chains. “With operations Woven 108.97 1297.41 118.66 1587.79 8.89 22.38 $ 5,660.60 million by 9.16%. in the country including Total 265.62 3009.51 318.18 3701.79 19.79 23.00 Knitwear fetched the bulk of the production, merchandising, SRI LANKA quality control, shipping and earnings during the said period with US Knitted 13.37 224.61 15.96 279.97 19.37 24.65 retail, we warmly welcome $ 2206.34 million, growing by 4.97% Woven 10.41 198.08 10.00 205.81 -3.93 3.91 the intention for reciprocal over the same period (July-August) last Total 23.78 422.68 25.96 485.78 9.17 14.93 elimination of import tariffs as year while woven garments earned US PAKISTAN $ 2025.42 million, recording a fall of part of this deal. In the best- Knitted 20.91 182.77 26.09 238.82 24.75 30.66 1.60%. Home textiles exports for the case scenario, the agreement Woven 22.69 283.30 29.42 361.58 29.64 27.63 same period valued at US $ 115.99 would provide for the full Total 43.61 466.08 55.51 600.40 27.29 28.82 million; leather and leather products at and immediate elimination US $ 106.74 million. Specialized textiles of duties on apparel, without VIETNAM including terry towel, special woven phase-out periods,” said Knitted 8.77 133.74 11.23 164.65 28.14 23.11 fabric and knitted fabrics marked a Armas. Woven 19.80 391.95 24.57 457.97 24.12 16.84 negative growth of 28.74%, earning US At the same time, to be able to Total 28.57 525.69 35.81 622.62 25.35 18.44 $ 14.68 million in July-August. benefit from new preferential Qty. & Value in mn Kg & Euro

50 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 51 Apparel Online India 51 exportstatistics

Japan Apparel Imports Both India and Bangladesh see Men’s shirts from Bangladesh Jan.-May 2014 growth in T-shirts remain strong India registers  Among the biggest categories of exports  Bangladesh is bouncing back and many growth in value of from the Indian sub-continent, T-shirts of its core products are supporting growth. apparel exports to has continued to be a growth segment Men’s shirts is among the categories that Japan by 4.56% for both India and Bangladesh in the continue to grow. Bangladesh registered period under review with India registering growth in values of exports of 11.42% while Among the emerging markets, 22.31% increase in quantities and volumes were up 11.46% in men’s shirts. Japan is considered a priority for 19.72% rise in value, while Bangladesh exploration as the country enjoys saw value and volumes increase India’s core strength in ladies duty-free access to the market by19.42% and 26.17%, respectively. blouses show growth since more than two years. And  India has always been known for its fashion even as the traditional markets EU increases imports of sweaters of the US and EU improve, many ladies wear, and ladies blouses form a companies continue their efforts  With extended winter, sweaters have significant portion of exports for many to penetrate this very quality- seen good growth in imports in first players particularly from the North. Over conscious market where 100% four months of the year. The category the last few years, many exporters had inspection is still a norm… saw 27.99% growth in volumes and lost business in this segment, which was a 12.88% increase in values during the cause of worry, but this year the category  In the first five months of the period under review. Most of the Asian has bounced back with increase in value of year, imports by Japan saw countries have also registered growth in 5.26% and rise in volumes of 24.06% in an increase in value of 2.10%, the category and India in particular saw the first four months of the year. while the volumes decreased 28.82% increase in value, while volumes marginally by (-) 1.20%. Knitted were up 39.29%. garments registered a decrease Bangladesh sees surprising growth in ladies dresses of (-) 0.21% in volumes, while Nightwear sees growth from India the volume of woven garments  To the surprise of many industry watchers, decreased (-) 3.93%. The values  Indian exporters in both the woven and Bangladesh saw a major jump in exports were up in woven garments by knitted category are increasingly looking of ladies dresses in the first four months of 1.59%, while those of knitted at nightwear as a growth category. the year with 57.34% increase in volumes garments were up by 2.66%. And in the review period, the export of and 59.48% gains in values. Encouragingly, nightwear from the country saw growth India was also able to get a boost in the  India saw growth in exports both in terms of value and volumes. category registering 30.75% growth in with values up by 4.56%, while While increase in value was 31.05%, the volumes and 8.04% increase in value the volumes were up 11.06%. volumes over the same period in 2013 during the same period. There was a significant increase saw an increase of 32.90%. in volumes of exports of knitted garments of 47.23%, while ITEM-WISE PERCENTAGE INCREASE IN TOTAL APPAREL IMPORTS BY EU FROM INDIA AND BANGLADESH: woven garments saw an increase APRIL 2014 AS AGAINST APRIL 2013 in volumes of just 1.22%. Exports to EU Total Imports by EU  Bangladesh remained on track India Bangladesh APPAREL TYPE with value of exports increasing Qty % Value % Qty Value Qty % Value % Qty Value Qty % Value % 21.40%, volumes rose by Change Change Actual Actual Change Change Actual Actual Change Change 26.32%. There was a significant Babies Wear 6.19 8.27 5.55 107.07 23.89 12.99 8.63 122.50 29.69 23.82 increase in volumes of exports Foundation Garments 12.69 10.10 0.13 5.96 6.75 5.74 1.30 38.67 49.20 38.85 of knitted garments of 36.30%, while woven garments saw Jackets & Blazers 23.34 -0.63 0.78 20.00 4.77 10.42 2.19 31.96 78.42 74.59 an increase in volumes of just Ladies Blouses 35.91 9.53 8.60 246.06 24.06 5.26 3.46 69.14 13.94 8.70 8.33%. Ladies Dresses 28.11 8.09 10.26 236.38 30.75 8.04 4.56 61.79 57.34 59.48  Another major gainer is Vietnam, Ladies Skirts 32.91 19.72 1.92 42.01 11.32 4.15 2.50 30.26 41.62 39.36 which has also continued to Legwear 15.90 15.75 0.50 6.27 34.59 37.89 0.67 3.62 292.14 145.33 register an increase in both value Men's Shirts 8.76 3.04 13.64 214.69 38.46 1.71 37.95 488.57 11.46 11.42 and volume of exports by 20.19% Nightwear 11.52 12.49 7.59 93.00 32.90 31.05 5.02 51.39 26.37 33.98 and 24.99%, respectively to the Japanese market. Suits / Ensembles -8.12 2.55 0.48 9.68 -17.44 -21.95 0.63 7.70 9.17 5.39 Sweaters 27.99 12.88 3.85 65.32 39.29 28.82 29.04 368.35 28.18 23.60  China witnessed a decline in its Trousers 11.32 11.78 19.13 213.15 94.78 22.67 97.30 1195.94 4.97 25.63 exports to Japan with decrease in the volume of exports by T-Shirts 18.23 12.97 17.22 293.03 22.31 19.72 104.49 980.92 26.17 19.42 (-) 4.91%, while the values were Undergarments 9.61 8.11 2.47 39.40 7.76 11.64 4.56 0.27 22.30 -99.47 down by (-) 3.86%. Value in mn Euro and Qty in mn Kg

52 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 53 Apparel Online India C.Subramaniam, Chairman, Mehala Machines (3rd from L) with his sons Carthic, Bharath and Mehala Machines thriving on technical Dharani – taking the strengths for high level of servicing legacy forward From a humble beginning in a small town of Tamil Nadu to being one of India’s leading technology providers with 17 inland, 2 overseas branch offices and over 400 dedicated dealers, Mehala Machines has come a long way. Today the Founder C. Subramaniam is a respected name in the garment industry, and with his three sons Carthic, Dharani and Bharath now fully involved in the business, Mehala Machines is consolidating on its strengths and working towards a better system-driven organization with a focus on customer service. To implement processes & systems and to take the company to the next level of growth with professionalism, Mehala hired a CEO, Ashim Das who has a chequered background having worked for MNCs in India and overseas. Integral to the growth strategy of the company is the basic desire to ‘take care of its people’ and run the organization professionally. “One of our biggest strengths and also differentiator has been our core team with many people having very long stints with us, taking pride in what we have achieved and also striving to meet evolving industry needs with a sense of ownership,” says C. Subramaniam, Chairman, Mehala Machines. In a freewheeling interaction with the ‘sons’ responsible to take the company up the next growth projectile, Apparel Online discovers the passion which drives the company…

he first thing that hits one when various divisions of the group is in are tempted to argue on points, but meeting the ‘GenNext’ at Mehala the hands of professionals who are we have groomed them to listen is the utter pride in the culture of competent in their area of expertise. and give proper replies that will the company they have inherited. Carthic categorically states that satisfy the customer, making him a “The Chairman has always believed “people can look forward to an client for life,” says Dharani. This in depending on professionals exciting career here as there are is indeed a unique approach, as and putting them at a leadership many people who have joined the most only train their marketing position, this is a legacy we intend company as a small office assistant teams’ social skills to get business. to continue and even though we T and have grown to become senior New recruits are trained at various brothers have joined the business, leaders. We have a Director of branches in different disciplines it does not mean that the complete the company, who started off as a to understand their core strengths decision making think tank is with and accordingly positioned. the core family group,” reiterates supervisor and another that started Carthic, the eldest of the three and as a technician and is now an all- The emphasis on training and also the most experienced. The India Head for a product line and so retaining people is obvious from division of roles is well defined on.” The company not only invests the fact that even when the global and all three are handling what in best of the talent but also puts recession was at its peak in 2008- best suits their temperament and in great efforts to train and make 09 and many of the technology education. While Carthic provides them future leaders to be ready providers were cutting down on staff strategy, backend support and to face the industry. In fact, one of and pay packages, Mehala chose to valuable inputs for growth, Dharani, the vital lessons that the Chairman enhance the packages and spend a doctor by education, is managing learnt in his formative years was the time in upscaling its training the key responsibilities of Finance to be patient with customers and levels, hiring HR companies to and Administration. Bharath, an IT never talk back even if he is wrong. teach sales, service and technicians engineer, is looking into the IT and “Our technicians are so sound in ‘how to handle customers’. “It marketing needs of the company. their area that sometimes when they was important to instil confidence The day-to-day functioning of the know the customer is wrong, they in our people and to believe in

54 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 resourcecentre

our strengths, so we took time Though there was a time off to retrospect and build the initially when the company was company,” says Carthic. He adds not associated with the best that “the way we treat, our people brands, but yet based on their also find reflection in how the high level of after-sales service Wide Range of industries perceive us as business and goodwill in the market, Trims & Embellishment partners.” which spelt ‘trust’, they were Thread, Buttons, Elastics, Grossgrain/Velvet/Satin Tape, Interlinings, Battern Bourgh/Neck Laces, Belts & Other Garment Accessories. Starting their journey as the highest selling company in a ‘repair shop’ for sewing sewing machines in terms of machines in the mid 1970’s, volumes (numbers). Today, not the technical service side of only are they a trusted name, the business has remained till but they also have in their date one of the core specialties profile some of the best and of Mehala. No other technology enviable brands in the global provider can claim to have such market, with Siruba being their a strong technical team that first flagship brand. Duerkopp can not only repair machines Adler, Topcut Bullmer, Macpi, that they sell, but bring to Pfaff, INA are only some of the life machines of any make big brands working exclusively and series, by practically re- in India through Mehala. With inventing the machine with this wide range of product

N. P. Elango, Director Marketing, seen with his team during a daily meeting session self-made critical parts. The offerings, the company is unique workshop of Mehala in capable of giving complete Tirupur is awe-inspiring and solutions in setting up a factory the service team headed by and through its consulting R. Selvan, Technical Director, division, is supporting the who has been associated with industry on all aspects from the company for more than two layout to machine selection decades, is in constant contact to training of workers. “We with the industry to understand don’t look upon the consulting the changing technical needs. division as a separate entity, it While smaller workshops are is an extension of our service Stitch Shell operational at all the regional commitment,” says N. P. Elango, SCO # 84, Huda Commercial Complex Sector-10-A, offices, the Tirupur workshop is Director Marketing. Gurgaon, Haryana (India) Ph. : 0124-4014478/79/80, 0124-6466766, 0124-4018490/91/92 the nerve centre and all difficult An entrepreneur at heart, Mob.: Rajeev -9810182890, Puneet Kocher - 9810048687 cases are sent here for repair. Subramaniam diversified E-mail : [email protected], [email protected], JAS-ANZ FECTIO R N Each technician is handpicked E the business, setting up the P and trained at the Tirupur first modern spinning mill in 1635A/14,Stit Mainch Road A Govindid Puri, New Delhi PCMS headquarters and then sent to Gobichettipalayam about 32 Sanjay Mendiratta - 9810707538, Vicky Dua - 9212125767, (ISO 9001-2008) other service centres around km from Tirupur in 1996, as E-mail : [email protected], the country. the Government of Tamil Nadu Ph. : 011-26436103, 26228234, 26294027 www.stitchshellindia.com

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 55 resourcecentre

was giving incentives to put it is unviable. “There are no up spinning mills to generate ancillary units that can support employment. Today, two units the industry, if all parts have are running round the clock with to be imported then it is better installed capacity of more than to assemble (manufacture) the 80,000 spindles. The venture machines in another country,” has stood the test of time and argues Carthic, suggesting has over the years produced that the Maruti model of yarn in various counts and developing business, wherein some knitting has been added to the Government created the offer grey fabric to the knitwear complete chain before starting industry in Tirupur. production could be replicated. The company has forayed into Going into the future, the many other businesses including company is looking to improve Spinning Mills of Mehala are equipped with latest machines foundry, auto component upon its service levels and manufacturing unit and Medical have even been in talks with Diagnostics Centres which many banks to start financing include radiology, pathology, schemes, but as yet no bank etc. during the times when is willing to take the plunge. the textile industry was in a “Historically, credit facilities turmoil.“The revival of the is a way of business in this garment industry in 2014 has trade, but if we could make shifted the focus back on our it more regularized and less core garmenting technology risky it would be beneficial to business,” admits Bharath. The both the customers and us,” strategy today is to concentrate says Dharani. on consolidating the position of The second focus, which is Mehala as a technology provider Bharath’s domain, is to bring for the apparel manufacturing the entire Mehala network and leather products under a robust ERP system for manufacturing industries. To better management, though Young girls picked up from engineering colleges form an integral part of the team at the workshop give wings to the strategy, a a large part of the business new corporate office is coming is already being monitored up in Tirupur which will house online, the effort is to keep the sales, service and a world upgrading and improving the class workshop, bringing all the systems. “We initially had core business divisions under resistance from the staff as it one roof. was a new way of working, but The team is very excited with now things are settling in and I the opportunities that are am looking to make the system coming up with the revival of more robust and user-friendly,” the international market and shares Bharath, who admits also the strengthening of the that there is still a huge scope domestic manufacturing. “In for improvement. the last few years, a large part While continuously adding of our business has come from new brands the focus is on not the domestic market, as they only sewing machines, but on Knitting machines have been installed at the spinning mills to offer basic fabric upgrade, and that has helped technologies for each division of us to also get access to all the apparel manufacturing and segments of manufacturing and leather products manufacturing service the high-end automation industries, from cutting room to market as well as the low end finishing. The vision today is to price-sensitive local market,” get into specialized machines informs Bharath. For those for future needs, like technical companies which cannot afford textiles. “Twenty years ago machines of European make, the goal was to be known, Mehala is offering its in-house then it was to be the largest brand Orbito sourced through distributors of sewing machines, their Singapore office. Though, which was fulfilled in 2003, now like many other technology the vision is to provide high-tech providers, Mehala is also keen machines and eventually get to setup a manufacturing unit, into training for handling these but Carthic honestly admits highly specialized machines,” The Mehala workshop is a centre for excellence in service that in the current scenario concludes Ashim Das.

56 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 57 Apparel Online India resourcecentre

Innovations in zippers the USP at KCC; ready to capture Indian market with variety

(L to R) Candy Tang, Sales Manager; Tommy Nien, Sales Supervisor; and a colleague from KCC – geared to capture Indian market

With many patents to its oday, the garment guarantee that the patented pricing. All processes are done name and among the first manufacturing locking system is unbreakable,” in-house and every norm, being it Asian companies to be business is a highly says Tommy. environment or safety, is adhered awarded the prestigious competitive industry A product range that the company to,” avers Tommy. The company where besides price is very excited with the growth VIP prize for innovation at is very upbeat about is the andT quality of a product, the collection of invisible zippers, opportunities which India has to the Modamont, Taiwanese fashion value is also of utmost offer and is looking for partners zipper giant KCC has which includes open end variant, importance. Every trim and another patented product from to support the promotional recently entered India accessory that goes into the KCC. “Invisible zippers are used activities to acquaint the industry under its own brand making of a garment has its mostly for fashion wear and also with the product range available. name, ready to take own value and every company applied in places where there is “We have been in India for many on competition from manufacturing such products is extra pressure like the back of years, not in our own brand both global players and vying to create its own USP, to be skirts, so we have improvised the name, but as OEM for leading domestic leaders. In its a preferred choice. A relatively product to overcome some of the brands. Now we want to promote new entrant into the zipper our brand and with India’s large pursuit of promoting the common issues associated with market under its own brand application of invisible zippers,” domestic market and fashion- brand, the company has in name, KCC is thriving on its R&D oriented export market looking the recent months taken quips Candy. The innovations to give the sewn industry zippers include movable bottom stop so upward, our product is a perfect part in two accessory that are different and also that over the time, and with usage, match for the growth that is fairs, in Bangalore and performance driven. “We can say the zippers don’t open up at the expected in the coming years,” Tirupur and is now looking proudly that we have the world’s bottom, and hook & eye is attached says Candy. The company is for dealers to take the largest range of zippers, some of to the zippers to reinforce the hoping that the trade agreement product directly to the which are exclusively our forte slider locking at the top of the that is underway between India industry. Very confident like small zippers, which no other garment. The variety of tapes and Vietnam will come through company is manufacturing,” of the wide product range used is also immense from regular as it would substantial affect says Candy. prices with duty waivered off. that the company can polyester to denim, jacquard, satin, printed, cotton and pattern “We have studied the market offer, Candy Tang, Sales With manufacturing facilities in Vietnam and China, the R&D tapes for the unique look. and also how we can position Manager, and Tommy ourselves, if the trade agreement is happening at both factories Besides invisible zippers, KCC Nien, Sales Supervisor with Vietnam goes as scheduled, as also at its headquarters in is also offering spiral, plastic, very soon we will be cheaper than representing the company Taiwan. Solutions for not only polyester and metal zippers in a even many companies producing share with Apparel Online, evolving needs of the fashion wide variety of options. Special the strategy of KCC to industry, but also other products attributes like waterproof, fire in the country,” argues Tommy. capture Indian market. is equally a focus area. The retardant, polish and plating, Armed with a collection company claims to have an anti- antique finish are but some of of zippers that are truly theft zipper. These double coil the properties that KCC can international and pricing that will zippers are suitable for luggage offer to its customers spread be very sharp and competitive, and no amount of poking with across the globe. A preferred KCC is ready to give market sharp object can split open supplier to many, KCC zippers leaders a good fight for a share the zippers, ensuring is being used for brands like in the zipper market. “We may be complete security. Armani Exchange, Converse, relatively unknown in India but “We have tested Champion, Salomon, Reiker worldwide we are known for our these zippers and to name a few. “Our innovations, reliability, quality in extreme completely integrated setup at and service, the same factors that conditions our manufacturing units ensures will support our growth in India Collection of invisible zippers with lace, woven, transparent, denim, cotton and printed tape and both quality and competitive also,” signs off Candy confidently.

58 Apparel Online India | SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 resourcecentre

ELASTICS / TAPES HANGERS / PACKAGING ACCESSORIES

EMBROIDERY FABRIC / LACES BUTTONS / BUCKLES

EMBROIDERY FABRIC / LACES BUTTONS / BUCKLES

SEPTEMBER 16-30, 2014 | Apparel Online India 59 60 Apparel Online India Orange Fashion Designs adds five new buyers Precision Design and evival of Europe is an issue of business also but it could not work out Sourcing shifts Rdeliberation these days and everyone very well as margins were less there. has their own experience and opinion on However, as we were already in Europe, to new office how the market is moving, while there are adding new buyers from Italy and France as business buying houses, which have felt the was comparatively more fruitful for us. grows negative impact of the slowdown, Germany is another market which we Gurgaon-based buying there are some others adding are targeting. Though year on year we office Precision new buyers and increasing are achieving 10 per cent growth even in Design and Sourcing their focus in Europe. Gurgaon- this slow market, but it will take time to has shifted to a new based 12 years old Orange achieve that growth which was there few office. Whereas Fashion Designs doing years ago,” said Vibhu in conversation earlier it was situated Europe from day one, with Apparel Online. in South City, now the recently added 5 new Working with 12 vendors of Delhi-NCR, new office is in Udyog buyers to its portfolio; Vibhu is encouraging his vendors to Vihar, Phase 1. A out of these three enhance the capacities rather than part of the Market buyers are from Italy adding new vendors for his fresh buying Fit Group, the buying and two from France, needs. With the approach of European office is sourcing and all of them are chain fashion with Indian look, the buying apparel, accessories stores. Vibhu Sehgal, house is continuously trying to fill the and footwear from Director of the company gap by offering whatever their buyers are India and is headed is very upbeat of the asking for. Currently the buying office is by the experienced stimulating business in using various new jacquards and blends Rakesh Saigal. The Europe. “It is good that in fabrics to attract buyers. The company company’s new office Europe is reviving, we has buyers like Monopricks and Kookai makes it operations tried some other markets (France) in Europe and Hogger Clothing more comfortable. like Japan and did some Co in the US.

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