MOURNING NATURE WALK WEAR THE COSTUME INSTITUTE AT THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART WILL EXPLORE GRIEVING RESORT 2015 CLOTHES THIS FALL WITH “DEATH DESIGNERS DREW ON INSPIRATION FROM CALIFORNIA TO BECOMES HER: A CENTURY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS CREATED A MAGICAL ENGLISH GARDENS FOR THEIR RESORT LOOKS. PAGE 9 OF MOURNING ATTIRE.” KINGDOM TO CELEBRATE THE LAUNCH OF ITS PAGE 12 LATEST HIGH-JEWELRY COLLECTION. PAGE 12

WWDTUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY INSIDE THE C SUITE Camuto’s Second Act: An Explosion of Product He’s not done yet. Through By LISA LOCKWOOD his labels Vince Camuto, Vince Camuto Signature and Louise et NEW YORK — “Our motto is, Cie, Camuto is expanding at a rapid ‘You can do whatever you want in pace with new categories, stores this company and you can grow and markets. He aims to reach the very quickly.’” $2 billion mark within fi ve years — That may sound like hubris, and remain private in the process. especially in a challenging fash- At present there are 17 wom- ion business, but the speaker is en’s categories and 13 men’s cat- Vince Camuto, a man who’s em- egories. The brand will have 65 barked on one of the industry’s stores internationally by year- most ambitious, lucrative and end, and looks to operate 80 to successful Act Twos. 85 stores internationally over the Act One was the Nine West next 18 months. Over the next Group, which he and partner fi ve years, Camuto plans to open Jerome Fisher sold to the Jones 100 stores in China. Also on deck: Group Inc. for nearly $900 mil- dedicated men’s stores. lion in 1999. Act Two is Camuto’s While other companies may be namesake brand, launched in weeding out licensees, Camuto 2006, which today generates $1 has expanded his empire, signing billion in global sales across nu- on licensees for such categories merous classifi cations. SEE PAGE 6 Contract Deadline Arrives For West Coast Port Workers There have been slowdowns and By KHANH T.L. TRAN delays at some ports as importers rush to move cargo. At the port in LOS ANGELES — A surge of cargo Long Beach, Calif., the second busi- is hitting West Coast ports as im- est in the U.S., an increase in cargo, Lady Bingbing porters race to get their goods along with a shortage in chassis to ashore before a key labor contract transport shipping containers and a After shooting more than 20 Chinese fi lms, Beijing-based actress Li Bingbing is expires this evening. number of temporary workers cover- taking on Hollywood. She appears alongside Stanley Tucci and Mark Wahlberg The International Longshore and ing for ILWU employees who are on Warehouse Union and the Pacifi c vacation, has led to delays during the in the summer hit “Transformers: Age of Extinction,” and, along with stardom, Maritime Association are expected past week, according to Art Wong, a fashion is playing an increasing role in her life. Here, Li wears Erdem’s silk to continue negotiating a new con- spokesman for the port. While there dress and Gucci earrings. For an interview with the actress, see pages 4 and 5. tract today — and while the outlook is have been complaints about the wait generally positive, importers are tak- to move cargo, he said he couldn’t es- ing the better-safe-than-sorry route. timate how long the delay would be. A strike, were it to come, could take “It’s not that anybody is doing a toll of as much as $2.5 billion a day. SEE PAGE 12

PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE HAIR AND MAKEUP BY LIU HANGYUE; FASHION ASSISTANT: MILTON DIXON MILTON ASSISTANT: LIU HANGYUE; FASHION HAIR AND MAKEUP BY

2 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014 WWD.COM American’’ Apparel Denies Charney THE BRIEFING BOX amended its credit agreement The former ceo has filed for IN TODAY’S WWD By EVAN CLARK with Lion Capital. arbitration under the terms of In its refusal, the company his contract and is said to be THE FIREWORKS have clearly said Charney’s request for a spe- seeking $23 million to $25 million come early this year for American cial shareholders’ meeting was for unfair dismissal. Pilar Moraga, the Apparel Inc. and its ousted found- “invalid and improper” in part He also signed a deal with subject of “Model Call” er Dov Charney — but the grand because “Mr. Charney previously Standard General, which agreed on WWD.com, outside finale is still to come. has been suspended as ceo and to buy at least 10 percent of WWD’s office. The company, which sidelined relieved of all powers to act on American Apparel’s stock and the former president and chief behalf of the company. lend the founder enough to buy executive officer for alleged mis- “The company does not intend the position. conduct, said in a regulatory fil- to comply with such a request Following that revelation on Friday, the company scrambled and in the wee hours Saturday adopted a “poison pill” provision The company does not intend to designed to prevent Charney from gaining control of the com- comply with such a request to call pany by acquiring more stock. Lion is said to have requested a special meeting and intends to payment of its $10 million loan LEXIE MORELAND after Charney was shown the

door. On Monday, cochairman PHOTO BY vigorously contest any action seeking Allan Mayer said, “The talks with Lion are continuing, and if they to compel the company to do so. do decide to call the loan, we Vince Camuto is expanding at a rapid pace with new have access to the capital that categories, stores and markets. PAGE 1 — AMERICAN APPAREL INC. REGULATORY FILING we’ll need to pay it off.” The company is also continu- West Coast ports are bustling with a surge of cargo from ing the investigation into allega- importers that hope to avoid a possible port strike. PAGE 1 ing that it shot down a request by to call a special meeting and in- tions against Charney, who has Charney to hold a special share- tends to vigorously contest any been accused of sexual harass- Li Bingbing, who stars in the latest edition of the “Transformers” holders’ meeting. action seeking to compel the ment on numerous occasions and PAGE 4 Charney ranks as the com- company to do so,” the filing said. was also accused of paying out film franchise, is taking on Hollywood. pany’s largest shareholder with The back and forth potentially significant severance payments a 27.2 percent stake and called steers the two sides closer to the to former employees to shield Counterfeit crimes are in the spotlight at a new gallery at the for the meeting to expand the court house, where a judge might himself from personal liability. Crime Museum in Washington. PAGE 8 size of the board to 15 directors, have to sort out the legal intricacies. American Apparel’s stock fell fill board vacancies and repeal Already, American Apparel is 7 cents to 90 cents Monday. Joh. A. Benckiser Holdings is eliminating its Labelux division, a number of actions taken since clashing with Charney on at least — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS and will soon directly oversee a number of its brands. PAGE 8 2010, when American Apparel two other fronts. FROM ARNOLD J. KARR Cotswold Industries Inc. has created an innovative pocketing fabric using Tencel fiber produced by Lenzing AG. PAGE 8 ’’ American Eagle Outfitters Inc. will enter the U.K. this fall with Sälzer to Lead Bench After Buying Stake three owned-and-operated stores. PAGE 10

from private equity firm By MELISSA DRIER Ugg this fall will introduce I Heart Ugg, a new brand Bruno Sälzer Hg Capital. specifically aimed at the female tween consumer. PAGE 10 Bench generated sales

BERLIN — Escada chief of 100 million euros, or L’Oréal USA Inc. has agreed to settle charges of deceptive executive officer Bruno $132.8 million at average PAGE 10 Sälzer has acquired a 15 exchange, in 2013, plus advertising against two of its products. percent stake in Bench additional licensing rev- and is to become the enues of about 50 million Sidney Kimmel has donated $110 million to Thomas fashion brand’s ceo and euros, or $66.4 million. Jefferson University in Philadelphia. PAGE 11 chairman. The casual lifestyle In February, Sälzer brand is targeted at men The fall Costume Institute show, its first since 2007, will be made it known he would and women ages 20 to 30 “Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire.” PAGE 12 be leaving Escada when and is sold in 26 coun- his contract expires on tries in Europe and North Van Cleef & Arpels created a magical kingdom in France to Nov. 30. He has been at America. Its largest mar- celebrate the launch of its latest high-jewelry line. PAGE 12 the helm of the Munich kets are Great Britain, fashion house since 2008. Germany and Canada, the ON WWD.COM The search for his suc- latter as a license. cessor continues. Sälzer remarked that Prior to Escada, Sälzer the brand’s target group MODEL CALL: Pilar Moraga, the half-Venezuelan, half- spent 14 years at Hugo “is of increasing impor- Chilean model with a septum piercing and countless tattoos, Boss, where he assumed tance for the fashion in- spent six years in Thailand before moving to New York. the ceo post in 2002. At Bench, Founded in Manchester in dustry. What is important for For more, see WWD.com. he takes over from cfo Paul 1987, Bench was acquired in me is that I am able to have a Masters, who was serving as in- February by Munich-based long-term entrepreneurial stake terim ceo. Emeram Urbanics Holding Ltd. in Bench.” FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA @ WWD.com/social

TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS Marks & Spencer Shifts Executive Roles [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Chavanne, executive director, ture in place to take our business VOLUME 208, NO. 1. TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays By and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two NINA JONES marketing and business develop- forward, and as we enter the next additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine ment at M&S. Costas Antimissaris, phase of our plan, we need to Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, LONDON — U.K. retailer Marks business development director, make sure our team structures Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, & Spencer disclosed a series of has been appointed international and internal processes allow us NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West changes to its executive team’s director and reports to Bousquet- to move with pace, simplicity and Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, responsibilities Monday, as part Chavanne. Meanwhile, Jan Heere, speed.” The company said it has Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. of the firm’s aim to “drive great- the current international director, also realigned responsibilities Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address er accountability and responsi- is leaving M&S to return to Russia. across the wider organization, in changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. bility across the business,” the Alan Stewart, chief finance officer, order to “promote swifter deci- If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with company said. will be responsible for property as sion making and a speedier re- your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be As part of the shifts, Laura part of his financial asset manage- sponse to customers’ needs.” mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request Wade-Gery, currently executive di- ment role. Hugo Adams, currently M&S, whose general merchan- to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse rector, multichannel at M&S, will executive assistant to chief execu- dise sales — which include cloth- permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. additionally be responsible for tive officer Marc Bolland, has been ing — have faltered in recent Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we U.K. retail. And in order to accel- appointed property director, re- years owing to increasing com- believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR erate M&S’ global brand position, porting to Stewart. The moves are petition and an unclear target DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED the company said, executives in effective immediately. market for its designs, is due to TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, M&S’ international business will Bolland said of the changes: issue a first-quarter trading up- UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND now report to Patrick Bousquet- “We now have the right infrastruc- date July 8. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. New face. New attitude.

TURNING COMING FALL 2014 THE FASHION WORLD ON ITS

XIAO WEN BACKSTAGE CHANEL’S AT FALL READY-TO-WEAR SHOW. PHOTOGRAPH BY MATT IRWIN. HEAD 4 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014

Lady

PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE Li Bingbing in Vionnet’s silk STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE macramé dress and belt. Alexis Bittar bracelet. WWD TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014 5 WWD.COM

Li Bingbing at the A scene from Hong Kong premiere “Snow Flower of “Resident Evil: and the Secret Retribution” in 2012. Fan” in 2011. IMAGINECHINA/CORBIS BY OTHERS ALL COLLECTION; Bingbing EVERETT

By MARC KARIMZADEH PARAMOUNT/COURTESY BY SPAIN HAS Penélope Cruz, France has Marion Cotillard, and Italy, Monica Bellucci. But a breakout actress from China has yet to make a mark on Li stars modern-day Hollywood. That could change with Li Bingbing, whose profile is alongside Milla set to rise with her role in Michael Bay’s “Transformers: Age of Extinction,” With Stanley Tucci in Li’s new film, Jovovich in which earned $100 million in its debut weekend, the “Transformers: Age of Extinction.” “Resident Evil.” “TRANSFORMERS” biggest of the year in North America. A celebrity in her native country — “the Angelina Li in a still from Wearing “The Forbidden Kingdom” Gucci at Jolie of China,” as Li’s publicist put it — she has starred COLLECTION; in more than 20 movies at home, many of them martial in 2008. the 49th arts films. She crossed onto the American screen in Golden EVERETT recent years, notably with Paul W.S. Anderson’s 2012 sci- Horse fi flick “Resident Evil: Retribution,” starring alongside Awards in Milla Jovovich. This edition of the “Transformers” Taiwan franchise specifically appealed to Li, who’s based in in 2012. Beijing, because it features a story line with several GATE/COURTESY

Chinese elements. Li plays the role of Su Yueming, the LIONS

owner of a Chinese factory that makes Transformers, BY and some scenes were shot on location at the Great Wall and in Hong Kong — which, as the movie goes, giant aliens are out to destroy. “The global audience will see KINGDOM” something about China,” she said. “And ‘Transformers’ will connect with the Chinese audience.”

Li considers several American actors — most “FORBIDDEN notably Matthew McConaughey, Julia Roberts and Meryl Streep — as her favorites, and, as with most actresses primed to break into Hollywood, fashion plays an important role in her SANTANA/AP; career. She is a face for Gucci in China, WALLY

and partnered with Gucci Timepieces & BY Jewelry to present a special edition of its Bamboo collection. In addition to Gucci, Li says, her favorite AWARDS designers include Sarah Burton HORSE for Alexander McQueen, Alexander Wang and Beirut-based Georges Chakra, whom she has worn on the GOLDEN red carpet several times. In her downtime, Li says, she opts for looks

that are more casually chic than dressy. COLLECTION; “Comfortable” is how she described her personal style, though that doesn’t extend to Li with Chinese her feet: “I love high-heeled shoes. In the world, actor Dong EVERETT beauty sometimes comes from torture — the more Zijian in Beijing torture, the more beautiful. I also love simple things, in 2013. and my favorite is black and white.” (Li made that point At a press conference in

On the red carpet for GEMS/COURTESY clear during the photo shoot for this story, at which she Beijing in 2013. declined to wear any colorful prints or patterns.) the 17th Shanghai International Film At last week’s “Transformers” premiere in New York, the actress SCREEN

wore a Giambattista Valli haute couture gown that consisted of a Festival in 2014. BY yellow bra top, a blush peplum and a black skirt. The event came with a bit of anxiety for Li because she arrived in New York just hours before the red carpet started. To save time, she had her hair JOVOVICH and makeup done in first class before landing. “I have to thank Air China because they understood me and had patience and gave me

support,” she said. “I also need to thank all the travelers who sat COLLECTION; beside me and didn’t complain to the cabin crew.” Spending time with Li, there is no mistaking her strong EVERETT personality, so it comes as no surprise she prefers to play characters that share those attributes — Yueming in “Transformers” being one example. “She is so smart,” Li said. “She is a ceo. She is capable and a cutting-edge scientist, educated, sexy, beautiful and in shape. Stanley [Tucci] plays my boss, but I treat him like I am the boss.” SEARCHLIGHT/COURTESY FOX BY PHOTO FLOWER” “SNOW 6 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014 What Makes Vince Camuto Tick? {Continued from page one} and international headway as dresses, coats, jewelry, fra- for Camuto’s namesake brand, Vince Camuto grance, fashion scarves, belts, which is known for being both

cold-weather accessories, watch- fashion-forward and accessible. es, handbags, sunglasses, ready- At present, Camuto does to-wear and optical. In addition, about 10 percent of its busi- the company has developed a ness overseas, with stores robust men’s program including in 62 countries, includ- shirts, sportswear, denim, tai- ing Mexico, the Dominican

lored clothing, sunglasses, foot- Republic, Costa Rica, Panama, wear, fragrance and ties. England, Ireland, Egypt, Saudi “I’m very excited about the Arabia, United Arab Emirates, men’s,” said Camuto, the char- Ukraine, Israel, Singapore, ismatic chief executive officer Japan, the Philippines, and chief creative officer of the Australia and Canada, where Greenwich, Conn.-based’’ Camuto it will open stores this month. Group, in an interview in his Depending on the region, the stylish New York showroom, company always opens stores amid displays of holiday 2014 with a local partner. footwear. Discussing the pace of In addition to its aggressive signing new licensees, he said, game plan in China, the firm “One thing leads to the other. is also looking to open in Chile It’s people, fashion and oppor- and Brazil and double the num- tunity.” Categories he’s looking ber of stores over the next two to sign on next include intimate to three years in Mexico. India apparel, ath-leisure and exten- represents another opportunity sions of the home category, said for Camuto in 2015. “We’re look- Leah Robert, executive vice ing at a double-digit store op- president at Camuto Group. portunity,” said Robert. It is also We have a team of 20 key people. We’re more agile. If we want to spend more on advertising, we can do it. If we want to open more stores, we can do what we want. — VINCE CAMUTO

The 78-year-old ceo is still as looking at expanding stores in enthusiastic about the business the Middle East and Australia, as he was when he started his recently opened a store in Egypt career at age 18, handling cus- and last year opened a store in tomer complaints at I. Miller. South Africa. “I really listened and It also unveiled a store on learned, especially from the Kensington High Street in women. They told you what London last year with part- they liked, what they didn’t ner Kurt Geiger, a division of like,” said Camuto, who helped Jones. In 2012, Camuto signed women with painful shoes and an exclusive distribution part- slipping heels. The ceo spoke nership with Kurt Geiger, about his passion for the busi- Europe’s largest’’ upscale foot- ness, why he has no plans to wear retailer, across the U.K., retire, sell or go public, and his Germany and Ireland. overarching desire to build the “Europe is a big opportu- company for his wife, Louise, nity,” said Robert. A year from 44, creative director, his five now, the company anticipates its children, the 1,300 employees international business will ac- around the globe and his close- count for more than 20 percent knit management team. of total volume. “These guys are like my ex- Closer to home, there are 18 tended family. We want to have stores in the U.S. in cities such a great company for them,” as New York; Miami; Paramus, said Camuto, whose father died N.J.; Chicago; Boca Raton, Fla.; when he was two years old. He Las Vegas; Newport Beach, started working at a local shoe Calif., and Atlanta. By yearend, store when he was 12 to help his the company expects to have 30 mother pay the bills. stores Stateside, adding loca- JOHN AQUINO BY Once Camuto and Fisher tions such as Charlotte, N.C.,

sold Nine West to Jones in 1999, and Pentagon City, Va. Most of PHOTO Camuto had a two-year non- Camuto’s stores carry the foot- compete. After that expired, wear and apparel, and often between,” said Camuto. “It’s the team. I’m a people “and we anticipate the same he started developing footwear the watches, jewelry, handbags Last year, Camuto started person. Those who work here growth in 2014,” said Camuto. collections for Dillard’s before and sunglasses. All of its do- shipping its products interna- are really energized, and they “While the environment always turning his attention to his own mestic stores are owned out- tionally. “We feel very well pen- can grow where they want to has an impact, the brand is po- namesake brand and launched right, and there is a limited in- etrated in the U.S. market and grow. Nobody can do it alone, sitioned for strong global expan- the Jessica Simpson brand, terest with the former 18 Shoe rolling out categories. Having a but if you have great people you sion, and we continue to build which today rings up more than Box stores that were converted balance is very important,” said can do it. Yo u can’t microman- the lifestyle for both men and $1 billion in sales through 32 into Vince Camuto stores in the Camuto, who eventually would age everything that has to be women,” he said. categories of business, separate New York area. As for U.S. ex- like to see retail become 50 per- done,” he said. In addition to his namesake from the Camuto brands. pansion, the company is looking cent of the business. Right now The Vince Camuto business brand, Camuto also bought In fact, Camuto Group ap- at retail locations from Seattle it’s 20 percent. has experienced double-digit the master license in 2005 for pears to be making domestic to Miami, “and everything in So what makes Camuto tick? growth over the last few years, Jessica Simpson for $15 mil-

w01a006,7a;12.indd 6 6/30/14 7:14 PM 06302014191534 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014 7 WWD.COM ce Camuto Tick?

lion, which has mushroomed A Vince 3:30 a.m. on a plane with Alex The Amore into a $1 billion company. The Camuto [DelCielo] to the Dominican fragrance. brand was launched around boot. Republic [for a production the same time that Simpson trip]. We don’t want this to appeared as Daisy Duke in be destroyed.” The company “The Dukes of Hazzard.” produces most of its footwear “It was the right time at the in China, in addition to such right place. It’s almost her 10- countries as Brazil and the year anniversary and she never Dominican Republic. got into trouble. We gambled With the Internet becoming a with it, but it worked out. We more important part of depart- built a whole showroom. When ment stores’ businesses, retail- the retailers came in, they were ers are challenged to make the excited about it right from the in-store experience more de- beginning,” said Camuto. “The sirable, said Camuto. “Brands good news is it really works, and have become more important. so many celebrities have called Carrying the right brands at the us, but we don’t like to repeat right price will get people into the same thing twice.” stores,” said Camuto, noting Another one of Camuto’s customers still like to come into major businesses is its footwear stores to try on footwear. arrangement with Tory Burch, What he attributes a lot of where Camuto Group designs, his success to is respect for the sources and collaborates with consumer. “We don’t think that Burch. Camuto also has the we can fool her. We give her the license for BCBG and Lucky Vince Camuto best value,” he said. Brand shoes, and does private- Signature’s At Camuto, the biggest cat- label shoes for Banana Republic, handbag. egory is footwear, followed Ann Taylor and Dillard’s, among by clothing. The rtw, which is other retail partners. produced by Bernard Chaus As for taking the com- Inc., is performing well, said pany public, Camuto has Camuto. Camuto owns 49 per- no interest. Nor is he in- cent of Chaus, and the remain- terested in selling the ing 51 percent is owned by the company. But he will Chaus family. The sportswear listen to overtures. “We collection is geared to women get approached all between 30 and 45. “We’re posi- the time. It would be tioned in the better area. It’s in stupid not to listen,” the same department as

he said. “If we were Michael Michael Kors public, we’d have to and Calvin Klein. push faster growth,” he The biggest custom- said. Camuto sees many er for the ready-to- advantages to being a wear is Nordstrom,” privately held company said Camuto. The line

and is happy not to have A Vince is also sold in stores such as the pressure of Wall Street Camuto Dillard’s, Lord & Taylor and forcing him to grow. “We men's shoe. Bloomingdale’s. Too by Vince don’t want to run, we want to Camuto, a more casual line, walk. We don’t have a timeta- has also been very successful. ble. Just to go public is not in “It’s for the girl who wants to the cards right now. We want ’’ wear jeans and tops. It’s a big to have something that can go brand,” said Camuto. on,” said Camuto. Ariel Chaus, ceo of Chaus Plus, he enjoys what he’s Inc., said, “It’s definitely been doing and calling his own shots. a win-win. The business is “We have a lot of fun,” he doing great. Vince has been added. “We have a team of 20 an amazing partner, and I’ve key people. We’re more agile. A Louise et personally learned a lot from If we want to spend more on Cie boot. him.” He said when he was ap- advertising, we can do it. If proached to become Camuto’s we want to open more stores, partner, Chaus called a major we can do what we want. We retailer who told him, “‘He Vince Camuto’s want to build. I love build- [Camuto] has got the Midas women’s watch. ing. Louise loves it. She’s so touch.’” Chaus added, “He has passionate. I not only found a a great feel for product and is great person and great wife, a merchant. He knows how to she has a great eye. She’s market and build a business. involved every single day.” [Camuto] has a great feel for product and is a merchant. He’s always in the stores and Louise Camuto also happens to pays attention to the custom- be a former Miss Sweden. ers. All of our brands have “We don’t want this culture He knows how to market and build a business. been growing substantially to change,” he added. “It’s the since we’ve partnered. The best thing we’ve been part of. — ARIEL CHAUS, BERNARD CHAUS INC. Vince Camuto brand has been That’s what we want to pre- growing extremely fast, and serve for everybody.” we’ve done it in a healthy way,” Camuto launched footwear into additional categories. For ness. Leah [Robert], Ed [Ferrell, movie before,” said Camuto. said Chaus. brand Louise et Cie, designed by example, Louise et Cie seeks to chief merchandising officer], His strategy right now is to When Camuto’s not working, his wife, in 2013, which is priced add perfume, handbags, jewelry Jeff [Howald, chief financial of- continue creating a dynamic he said he enjoys spending time between Vince Camuto and VC and apparel. ficer], and Alex [DelCielo, presi- working environment and to keep in the Hamptons and is an art Signature. Louise et Cie is sold When asked what the Vince dent and chief operating offi- the company’s culture intact. lover. He and his wife rebuilt in such stores as Nordstrom, Camuto brand will look like in cer], a whole bunch of people “I think we’re going to ex- Villa Maria, a 20,000-square- Dillard’s and Lord & Taylor and five years, Camuto didn’t hesi- who are really devoted. That’s pand. We’re building a club. foot former convent in Water is “more classic” than the other tate. “I’d like to be a $2 billion not really on the radar right We all have a good time. Mill, N.Y., over a five-year pe- two collections. Vince Camuto business,” he said. now. We’re not looking to cash There’s no negativity com- riod, which was featured last has trendy, more fashion-for- “We want to keep the brand out because it’s very difficult ing around the corner. My son year in Architectural Digest. ward looks, and VC Signature is going. We think we’re in our in- to be public right now. It takes John is in the business and He’s also involved in breast can- the designer collection. Louise fancy. Louise is in the business. away from the brand. I don’t he has a great eye. My young- cer research and the Ronald et Cie and VC Signature are also My sons are in the business. We know how good it is for the em- er son Christopher’’ got up at McDonald House, where Louise looking to extend their brands have great talent in the busi- ployees. I’ve been through that 3 in the morning and left at has served on the board. 8 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014

TEXTILES Benckiser Cutting Crime Museum Takes on Counterfeits Labelux Division By KRISTI ELLIS By SAMANTHA CONTI WASHINGTON — Counterfeit crimes are in the spotlight at a new gallery in LONDON — Joh. A. Benckiser Holdings is the nation’s capital. eliminating its Labelux division, and from With the aim of raising awareness July will directly oversee the Jimmy Choo, on the criminal activity and often Bally, Belstaff and Zagliani brands, WWD deadly consequences associated with has learned. counterfeit products, the International Reinhard Mieck, chief executive officer of AntiCounterfeiting Coalition and Labelux, is to leave the company. National Intellectual Property Rights Benckiser said the proposed changes are Coordination Center, with backing a result of Labelux’s success in attracting top from several companies, unveiled a management for its brands, and the improving five-year gallery in the Crime Museum performance of the companies in its portfolio. here on June 24. Benckiser said it wants to “increase its di- “Counterfeit Crimes: Are Yo u Part A counterfeit versus authentic apparel and footwear display. rect involvement with its luxury businesses,” of the Black Market?” examines the while the strategy of direct oversight will impact of counterfeit products, chal- bring the luxury brands in line with the other lenging consumers looking for a bar- the purchases they make,” said Bob tions and through e-commerce sites. companies in the holding firm’s portfolio. gain to rethink their purchases in the Barchiesi, president of IACC. “It is But federal officials attending the un- The changes are also aimed at facilitating context of the organized crime they so critical that consumers understand veiling of the gallery stressed that they growth, said Benckiser. There will be no lay- are often unwittingly funding with these implications and do their part. cannot fight the crime alone. offs across the 2,700 workers at Labelux com- their purchases. We can’t stop the supply without stop- “This highly important counter- panies or at the Global Business Services The gallery, supported by sev- ping the demand.” feit crime exhibit is a part of a public organization, the synergy platform that deals eral industries and companies, in- Barchiesi said counterfeits cost U.S. awareness campaign,” said James Cole, with operations such as media buying, real cluding Oakley, Pfizer, Microsoft and companies across all industries an esti- U.S. deputy attorney general. “We real- estate and IT for the brands. GBS will con- Underwriter’s Laboratories, features mated $250 billion annually, while the ize the federal government cannot fight tinue to be run by its ceo Mark West. displays of a variety of counterfeit estimate worldwide is $650 billion. counterfeit crime alone. We cannot reg- Going forward, the luxury businesses will items, ranging from fake Coach purses, Apparel and accessories are among ulate, we cannot prosecute and we can- be overseen by Peter Harf, a senior part- handbags and sunglasses; Ugg boots; the top counterfeit products seized not inspect our way out of this issue. We ner at Benckiser, and Fabio Fusco, who has Lululemon yoga pants, and Timberland by federal officials in the U.S. In fis- need to enlist consumers and industry been named partner at Joh. A. Benckiser footwear and apparel to Beats head- cal year 2013, officials made 9,894 as our partner. The good news is the Holdings and chief financial officer of Joh. phones, Gibson guitars and counterfeit seizures of counterfeit apparel and consumer awareness about counterfeit A. Benckiser Luxury. pharmaceuticals, and often pairs the accessories, valued at $116.1 million. products is growing.” “The changed structure and JAB’s great- bogus items with the authentic versions That represented 20 percent more of Cole noted that federal authorities er direct involvement is a reflection of its to underscore the difficulty in distin- the bogus merchandise year-over-year have been somewhat successful in tak- increasing commitment to luxury goods as guishing between them. and 35 percent of the total amount ing down counterfeit Web sites and a key pillar in the JAB Holdings portfolio,” Interactive exhibits give people confiscated, according to the report by seizing assets. The collaborative effort said Harf, chairman of the luxury goods the opportunity to learn and test their U.S. Customs and Border Protection has resulted in the seizure of $300 mil- businesses at Joh. A. Benckiser Holdings. knowledge on everything from the and U.S. Immigration and Customs lion in counterfeit merchandise and “This is absolutely the right thing for the choking hazards of household items Enforcement’s Homeland Security currency, as well as the “disruption” of future of JAB, the luxury goods brands and that receive no proper testing when Investigations. There were 28,212 sei- more than 2,000 piracy and counterfeit its employees. At the same time, we would they are counterfeited to downloading zures covering all consumer products, organizations, he said. like to record our gratitude to Reinhard, who an app called “Save the Game” that lets valued at $1.7 billion, in the year. Lev Kubiak, director of the IPR has been a major factor in both the success the user become a special agent and Counterfeiters have long focused Center, said it has grown to include of the luxury goods businesses, and the fact investigate video-game counterfeiting. on high-priced luxury labels, and U.S. 21 federal agencies and international that we now have world-class managers lead- “The new gallery asks visitors and foreign officials have been part- partners, a sign of how widespread ing our luxury goods companies,” he added. tough questions while educating them nering in recent years to crack down counterfeiting has become. Joh. A. Benckiser Holdings is a privately on the topic, calling them to rethink on the illicit trade at physical loca- “I think the growth over the last held investment firm whose assets are over- 10 years is indicative of the growth seen directly by its senior partners — Harf, of the problem we’ve seen, and un- Bart Becht and Olivier Goudet. Its portfolio Lev Kubiak James Cole fortunately the combined efforts at also includes a majority stake in Coty Inc., the IPR Center hasn’t been enough to and a minority stake in Reckitt Benckiser overcome the problem or the growth Group plc, which owns health, hygiene and and threat that counterfeiting poses,” home products. Kubiak said. “The fundamental It also has majority stakes in the coffee change [by counterfeiters] is they are and tea companies D.E. Master Blenders no longer just interested in selling 1753 B V, Peet’s Coffee & Tea Inc. and you a cheap product that looks like Caribou Coffee. Earlier this year, Benckiser the real thing. Today, they are inter- and Mondelez International Inc. agreed to ested in completely fooling the con- combine their coffee businesses, creating sumer and the industry and govern- the world’s leading pure-play coffee com- ment, and selling them a product that pany controlled by Benckiser. looks exactly like the real thing costs Benckiser set up Labelux in 2007. From the an amount of money similar to the get-go, Labelux set out to establish itself as a real thing, but does not perform the luxury player, with a sharp appetite for acqui- JONAH KOCH same and indeed jeopardizes the life sitions and a long-term vision for its brands. and safety of Americans and the na- In 2008, it took majority stakes in the

PHOTOS BY tional security of the United States.” London-based jewelry firm Solange Azagury- Partridge and the New York label Derek Lam. It bought Bally outright from TPG Capital, and went on to purchase Zagliani the following year, and Jimmy Choo and Lenzing, Cotswold Team for Tencel Pocketing Belstaff in 2011. In 2012, Labelux sold its stakes in Solange said Tricia Carey, senior merchandising manager at Lenzing. Azagury-Partridge and Derek Lam back to By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN “This development blends Tencel to provide comfort next to the founding designers, saying it preferred the skin, as well as strength and moisture management. With to focus on building its luxury leather goods NEW YORK — Cotswold Industries Inc. has developed an the expertise and global distribution, Cotswold is providing a and shoes businesses. innovative pocketing fabric using Tencel fiber produced by viable alternative in pocketing for the market.” Finding the right managers to run the Lenzing AG. Most pocketing fabrics are made from cotton or cotton Labelux companies was often challenging: The fabric, intended for pocketing and waistbands, com- and polyester blends. Mieck temporarily served as ceo of Belstaff bines softness, strength and sustainability. Cotswold Industries James McKinnon, chief executive officer of Cotswold and Bally, although he recently filled those and sister company Central Textiles of Central, S.C., will be the Industries, a supplier to companies such as Levi Strauss posts with Gavin Haig and Frédéric de Narp, primary conduit for processing and weaving of Tencel pocket- & Co., VF Corp., Abercrombie & Fitch Co., Gap Inc., L.L. respectively. In 2012, he named Pierre Denis ing, which will be produced in the U.S. and China. Bean, Kohl’s Corp., J.C. Penney Co. Inc., True Religion, AG ceo of Jimmy Choo. Tencel is a man-made cellulosic fiber derived from wood Jeans and Lands’ End, called Tencel pocketing a “New Age Labelux acquired Choo in 2011 in a deal pulp from trees, with a distinctive closed-loop manufactur- functional fiber” that will serve specialty and mass-market valuing it at 549 million pounds, or $889.4 ing process reusing 99.6 percent of the solvent. Tencel’s channels.” He said partnering with Lenzing “fits perfectly million at the time, according to sources. structure allows moisture to transfer through the fiber, re- within our corporate strategy of being a leader in both inno- The brand has consistently been notch- sulting in ease of wear and comfort. This optimal moisture vation and environmentally friendly textile manufacturing.” ing double-digit growth and could seek an management also supports reduced bacteria growth. The privately held, family-owned company provides tex- initial public offering this year, with a mar- “As brands seek advancements in fabrics which provide not tiles for industrial, nonwovens, apparel and technical ap- ket valuation of 1 billion pounds, or $1.67 only comfort, but also performance, we are pleased to work plications. It was founded in 1954 and is headquartered in billion at current exchange, according to together with Cotswold on Tencel pocketing application,” New York City. industry sources. WWD TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014 9 WWD.COM

Rachel Zoe Andrew Gn Irfé Christian Douglas Wijnants Hannant

Resort 2015 Rachel Zoe: “A modern approach Irfé: For resort at Irfé, Olga to a California girl in the 1970s” Sorokina added a cool street is how Rachel Zoe described her attitude to two everyday resort lineup in the press notes, classics — denim and khaki an idea she translated through pants. The jeans and chinos her recurring bohemian lens. A were cut generously for a Balmain lovely white T-shirt dress featured boyfriend look with a dropped a top in lace and skirt in tweed, crotch and tapered leg, and, for instance, while other looks in a play on proportions, were worked a rock-chick vibe, i.e., often worn with supersmall crackled leather moto jackets. jackets, short trenches and cropped tops. Balmain: Olivier Rousteing showed a very graphic Balmain Damir Doma: Damir Doma said JOHN AQUINO collection, much of it with a he wanted to play with texture California and New Mexico and experiment with new prints,

PHOTO BY mood. He looked to Navajo so he focused on pleating, blanket patterns for his rich laser cuts and paint-drip and Damir Véronique embroideries, while flared brushstroke motifs. Graphic Doma Leroy pants and poncho-inspired black-and-white dresses were volumes looked sleek and sexy in gracefully cut on the bias, and textured knits and soft leather. sporty bomber jackets were Draped jersey and leather wrap worked in pleated silk. The dresses, meanwhile, were worn Jackson Pollock-like paint over tight bell-bottoms. drips came on everything from a delicate silk chiffon dress to Andrew Gn: With English gardens more robust cotton pants and in mind, especially London’s tank tops. Chelsea Flower Show, which he visited as a child with his Christian Wijnants: For his first mother, Andrew Gn pre-collection, Christian featured a delicate FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE Wijnants looked to collection with an the Indonesian sea old-fashioned feel. WWD.com/ gypsy tribes that live Long gowns and runway. in harmony with the cocktail dresses ocean, creating their came in myriad homes and clothes flower motifs worked on rich with found materials. They brocades and printed satins and inspired an abstract collage organzas. Pretty embroidered print that Wijnants featured on organza and guipure blouses had a silky dress. That same fabric a grandmotherly feel but looked was also shredded into ribbons fresh with Bermuda shorts. and knit together for cardigans and sweaters. Véronique Leroy: Véronique Leroy showed a perfectly cut lineup Douglas Hannant: Wanting featuring graphic elements and everything to be easy for discreetly innovative fabrics. resort, Douglas Hannant was Focusing on sportswear, she inspired by the kind of clothes showed skirt suits and dresses his art-collector customers in terry cloth lined with jersey, wear. “It’s a polished Bohemian and striped knit cardigans and spirit,” said Hannant. He skirts made from a rubbery showed a silk tunic, pants and yarn. An embroidered macro long halter dress in brushstroke fishnet with industrial eyelet prints while unstructured closures further emphasized the jackets had the relaxed look of clothes’ strong impact. a textured cardigan. 10 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014 American Eagle I Heart Ugg Geared Toward Tweens the main line. We wanted to give [this custom- By LAUREN MCCARTHY er] an exclusive product. The market potential is huge.” Rishwain cited the U.S. tween market Sets U.K. Launch NEW YORK — Ugg it turning its focus to the to be about $200 billion, with $43 billion of that middle-school customer. total being exclusive purchases versus those The company is hoping to build off the mo- bought by parents, etc. The three most popu- mentum of a successful 2013 fiscal year, where lar categories for tween spending, according to By ARNOLD J. KARR brand sales increased 9.7 percent, with its first Rishwain, are video games, apparel and shoes. stand-alone secondary brand. Named I Heart Ugg aims to tap into a larger international AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS INC. will enter the U.K. this fall Ugg, the new label is aimed at the female consumer base through the brand as well. “We with three owned-and-operated stores. tween consumer, defined as girls between the are primarily a domestic brand, but international The units will be at the Bluewater mall in Kent and Westfield age of nine and 13. “We wanted to give [this is the fastest-growing segment,” said Rishwain. Group’s London and Stratford City shopping centers in London. The customer] an exclusive product,” said presi- “Japan and China are our fastest-growing [mar- Westfield mall units will include aerie shops and have about 9,000 dent Connie Rishwain. “It will definitely look kets].…We think the product might skew older in square feet of selling space. Bluewater will measure about 4,500 different than the Ugg line, but it will have the Asia, the way that Hello Kitty skews to an older square feet and won’t include an aerie shop-in-shop. DNA. This gives her her own identity.” consumer there than it does here. So, it might Pittsburgh-based American Eagle operates more than 1,000 stores The initial I Heart Ugg collection for fall will be 17- to 25-year-old there.” To ensure the new in the U.S., Canada, Mexico, China and Hong Kong and ships to 81 include boots, moccasins and slippers done in line reaches tweens through all channels, Ugg countries through its Web sites. At the end of the last fiscal year, an array of colors and prints. Distinct design el- will embark on an expansive marketing plan that there were 96 stores in Canada, six in Mexico, three in Hong Kong ements include an I Heart Ugg logo heel plate, includes a stand-alone site, iheartugg.com, and a and four in China. There are an additional 82 stores in 13 countries digital and print ad campaign. operated through franchise arrangements. An I Heart Ugg shoe. I Heart Ugg will also get the retail treat- In its annual report, the company specified Mexico, Asia and the U.K. ment with two dedicated brick-and-mortar as markets in which it might expand through owned-and-operated stores. locations in Waikiki, Hawaii, and San “We see tremendous global appetite for both the American Eagle Francisco. Both stores are slated to Outfitters and aerie brands, and we believe that our presence in three of open in September. “Our cur- the most popular shopping destinations in England will provide great ex- rent store in Waikiki is one posure for us in this significant new market,” said Simon Nankervis, exec- of our top-volume stores,” utive vice president, Americas and global country licensing for American explained Rishwain. “The Eagle. “We are focused on profitably scaling our international growth and location gives an amazing believe that American Eagle Outfitters will have great traction in the U.K.” tourist business from both During a conference call to discuss first-quarter earnings in May, the Asia and the U.S., and we’ll company disclosed plans to close 150 of its North American stores over a red heart be able to get a really good a three-year span, including nearly 100 American Eagle stores, and em- rivet, unique stitching read on the brand. In San Francisco, phasize licensed stores in its pursuit of international expansion. and, on select boots, a cell phone pocket. Prices our store now is one block away from Union Without reference to the U.K., Nankervis told analysts on an earn- will be lower than the main line, with opening Square. Then, a location popped up in Center ings conference call that the company was exploring ways of achiev- price points at $79.95, with the most expensive City that was perfect. The opportunity was ing the best return on investment for its stores outside the U.S. boot at about $160. there, so we took it.” “For example,” he noted, “Korea was a market that we have histori- The brand will also include loungewear, Locations in New York and Las Vegas are cally identified as a likely target for an owned-and-operated business. accessories and handbag offerings. “It’s a being scouted for a 2015 opening. In addition And as part of our restructuring of our strategy, we’ve now identified great way to get that customer for life,” said to the dedicated stores, I Heart Ugg will be that that’s an appropriate market for us to target a licensed store base, Rishwain. “They can enter through I Heart available at Nordstrom, Dillard’s, Zappos.com which is what we’re in the process of working through at the moment.” Ugg, and once they outgrow it, they can go to and select Ugg stores beginning July 14.

Cara claims. The settlement also prohibits July-August issue of Jalouse magazine. Delevingne MEMO PAD claims that certain products from the Martin is the latest actress to photographed Lancôme and L’Oréal Paris brands affect appear in Miu Miu ads this season. Elle by Tim Walker genes unless the claims are supported Fanning, Bella Heathcote, Lupita Nyong’o for Mulberry. SETTLING UP: L’Oréal USA Inc. has agreed by competent and reliable scientific and Elizabeth Olsen fronted the brand’s to settle Federal Trade Commission evidence. L’Oréal is also prohibited from summer campaign, while Drew Barrymore, charges of deceptive advertising about making claims about these products that Chloë Sevigny, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Camille its Lancôme Génifique and L’Oréal Paris misrepresent the results of any test or Belle, Kim Basinger, Kirsten Dunst, Hailee Youth Code skin-care products. study. — ARTHUR FRIEDMAN Steinfeld and Mia Wasikowska were among According to the FTC’s complaint, those appearing in previous seasons’ L’Oréal made false and unsubstantiated MIU MIU AT THE MOVIES: Miu Miu is campaigns. — ALESSANDRA TURRA claims that its Génifique and Youth Code strengthening its ties with products provided antiaging benefits by the cinema industry. The targeting users’ genes. brand has tapped actress “It would be nice if cosmetics could Stacy Martin to front its fall alter our genes and turn back time,” said advertising campaign, Jessica Rich, director of the FTC’s Bureau hitting international of Consumer Protection. “But L’Oréal publications this month. couldn’t support these claims.” Steven Meisel In national advertising campaigns photographed Martin — that encompassed print, radio, T V, who played the younger Internet and social media outlets, version of Charlotte L’Oréal claimed that its Génifique Gainsbourg’s character products were “clinically proven” to Joe in Lars von Trier’s film HIGHLAND HIGH: Team Mulberry took to boost genes’ activity and stimulate the “Nymphomaniac.” The the Scottish Highlands for its fall ad production of youth proteins that would shoot was on a bare set campaign, which was shot by Tim Walker cause “visibly younger skin in just seven with stark lights, enhancing and features Cara Delevingne against a days,” and would provide results to the contrasts among backdrop of mossy rocks, rolling hills, specific percentages of users. the different textures Winona Ryder in the Rag & Bone fall ad campaign. and clumps of heather — all lit by the Similarly, for its Youth Code products, of the clothes worn by rare Scottish sunshine. “Big space, fresh L’Oréal touted in English and Spanish Martin, whose gestures and poses are WINONA FOREVER:.…Or at least until fall. air, wind in the hair, away from it all.… advertisements the “new era of skin care: reminiscent of a Warholian character. Winona Ryder is the face of Rag & Bone’s Mulberry is a brand that is at home in gene science,” and that consumers could Images from the black-and-white fall campaign, chosen for her “beautiful, town and country, and we wanted to “crack the code to younger acting skin.” advertising campaign are breaking in the timeless quality,” said Marcus Wainwright, capture that feeling,” said Anne-Marie Charging as much as $132 per managing partner of Rag & Verdin, Mulberry’s brand director. “When container, L’Oréal has sold Génifique Bone. “To us, Winona Ryder we arrived in Scotland, it was pouring nationwide since February 2009 at is a bona-fide icon. One of with rain, but once Tim arrived this Lancôme counters in department stores the things that makes her golden sun appeared.” and at beauty specialty stores. The so cool is that although she The ready-to-wear on show is inspired company has sold Youth Code, which has this incredible career, by traditional British cold-weather gear, costs up to $25 per container at major she isn’t interested in being and includes short kilts, argyle and Aran- retail stores across the U.S., since a movie star.” inspired knits, lots of plaid and warm November 2010. Glen Luchford shot Ryder woolens. Accessories include slip-on Under the proposed administrative — and actor Michael Pitt, brogues, Wellington boots with buckles at settlement, L’Oréal is prohibited from for the men’s campaign the side, the Tessie and Bayswater Buckle claiming that any Lancôme brand or — in Coney Island, N.Y. bags, as well as the Delevingne-designed L’Oréal Paris brand facial skin-care The campaigns will run in backpacks. Creative directors were Ronnie product targets or boosts the activity of international editions of Cooke Newhouse and Stephen Wolstenholme genes to make skin look or act younger, Vogue and GQ, as well as at House and Holme, with styling by or respond five times faster to aggressors in issues of WSJ. Magazine, Edward Enninful. The ads will break in like stress, fatigue and aging, unless the Vanity Fair, Interview, Lui the September issues of titles including company has competent and reliable and Gentlewoman. British Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Elle. scientific evidence substantiating such Stacy Martin photographed for Miu Miu by Steven Meisel. — JESSICA IREDALE — SAMANTHA CONTI WWD TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014 11 WWD.COM

will appear on their upcoming album ACTION-PACKED: Surfboards dotted the set of “Sisters,” set for release Aug. 28. the Y-3 show in Paris on Sunday, but it looks FASHION SCOOPS “It’s a mix of pieces that have been with like riding the waves will take a backseat in us at various times of our lives, or that are the reboot of Nineties classic “Point Break,” still with us practically since childhood, which started shooting this week. from the first piece we played with four Front-row guest Clemens Schick, who KIMMEL’S GIFT: Sidney Kimmel is at it again. The Milan flagship is the eighth store hands when we were six and eight years succeeds James Le Gros as Roach in the The former Jones Group Inc. chairman, for the edgy brand, after the opening of old to things that we play now,” she said. film, kept mum on reports that the remake Hollywood producer and philanthropist a Miami boutique last December. “I’m open to all music,” mused will focus on the world of extreme sports, has donated $110 million to Thomas — ALESSIA BANI Gillespie. “If something is really beautiful, with stunts including snowboarding, wing Jefferson University in Philadelphia, then it’s beautiful. I don’t try to put things suit flying, free rock climbing and high- which will rename its medical school SLIPPERY WHEN WET: Kenzo designers into categories or say that these speed motorcycle tricks. the Sidney Kimmel Medical College. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were banking ladies are classical and I’m rock FOR MORE But the daredevil actor, The funds will be allocated for medical on blue skies as the backdrop of their ’n’ roll. You can say that, but at SCOOPS, SEE whose passions include motor school scholarships, to attract top faculty spring men’s collection, shown in an heart, if we played together, I’m sports, said he was excited and to build state-of-the-art medical open-air venue on the banks of the sure we would write something WWD.com. about the shoot, which will take school facilities. — LISA LOCKWOOD Seine on Saturday. good. I’m sure we would find place in locations including But the weather gods decided some common ground.” Austria, Switzerland, Venezuela, ARMANI’S WINNING TEAM: Much to the otherwise, leaving guests including Jesse Further down the row, disco queen Mexico and India. He hopes the resulting delight of Giorgio Armani, enthusiastic Metcalfe, Joe Jonas and label founder Kenzo Amanda Lear revealed that she finally film will measure up to the original, starring owner and sponsor of the EA7 Olimpia Takada huddling under umbrellas as a indulged in her real musical passion with Keanu Reeves and Patrick Swayze. Milano basketball team, the “Red fine drizzle dusted the seats and catwalk. “My Happines,” her recent album of Elvis “‘Point Break’ was one of the best Shoes,” as they are dubbed, claimed the Presley cover songs. It turns out her first movies of the Nineties. It’s one of those Italian championship title on Friday ever single was a cover of “Trouble” movies which gets stronger — it’s like a evening, after winning a thrilling final from the soundtrack of “King Creole.” good old wine,” he said. “We take it as game seven of the playoff against Siena. “But then my record company told an inspiration.” It is the first time in 18 years the Milan me, ‘Oh no, you have to do disco.’ I Alexander Ludwig, best known for his basketball team is league champion. said, ‘Disco? You’re pissing me off role as Cato in “The Hunger Games,” Leveraging American aces Curtis with disco,’” she recalled. “I’m finally is also a sports fanatic, so he had no Jerrells, Keith Langford, David Moss and indulging myself. At last, I’m doing trouble taking up American football for Gani Lawal and Italian Alessandro Gentile what I wanted to do all along, and it “When the Game Stands Tall,” based — who last week was drafted by the only took 30 years.” on the real-life story of the De La Salle NBA’s Minnesota Timberwolves and Fresh off the release of his debut High School football team’s record- then traded to the Houston Rockets album “Sweet Disarray” in March, Dan setting 151-game winning streak. — the Milan team’s performance led Croll was gearing up for a tour of the “I’m actually from Vancouver, Canada, Armani to rejoice, “Finally, after years STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE U.K., Europe and the U.S. in October originally, so I played every sport except of sacrifice finally rewarded,” according and November. The British singer- for football. It was very new to me —

to media reports. He spoke during a PHOTO BY songwriter was attending his first now I’m hooked,” he said. “It’s such an celebration on the court, where he Joe Jonas, Cara Santana and Jesse Metcalfe. fashion show. American thing, and you know, you play it was surrounded by thousands of team “I think I’m in the deep end here,” he every day for three months of your life, you supporters, the technical staff and the French musician and video director said with a smile. “It’s really important to just grow this camaraderie with everyone players. Armani’s long-standing passion Yoann Lemoine, who goes by the stage have a connection between designers and on set and you just love the sport.” and financial investments helped save name Woodkid, came straight from the musicians. It’s a good bond to have, really, so Ludwig added that he would shortly start the team, which had been on the verge airport, having just returned from I’m just kind of branching out, I suppose.” filming season three of “Vikings” for the of bankruptcy before he stepped in to his performance at the Montreal Rounding off the eclectic guest list History Channel. “Game of Thrones” star back it. — LUISA ZARGANI International Jazz Festival. “It was were Russell Westbrook, Victor Cruz and Joe Dempsie and Chinese actor and singerWei crazy. The audience in Montreal is Salim Kechiouche. — J.D. Chen rounded off the guest list.— J.D. FIRST IN ITALY: Rick Owens’ first flagship incredibly welcoming,” he said. has opened in Milan, located in the arty He performed again on Sunday at the Brera district, on Via Monte di Pietà, Solidays music festival on the outskirts near the La Scala theater. of Paris. Created by Los Angeles architect “Often, you learn from your mistakes, Patrick Tighe, the boutique’s minimal but this was just a gratuitous act. I design includes pillars in rough wood, didn’t learn anything,” he said ruefully. walls with a white cement casting and “It’s just something that keeps me mirrors all around. “The architect has awake at night.” created monoliths of environmentally Nicolas Godin, one-half of the French responsible Styrofoam, which have been band Air, is going back on the road solo next January, but pledged he would be bringing a tent. Weather notwithstanding, the show SMALL SPACE was an upbeat affair with a thumping soundtrack specially created by rising British electro duo Disclosure. French actor Théo Cholbi, who will be seen shortly alongside Michael Pitt in the new Larry Clark movie “The Smell of Us,” closed the display. Leon took his bow solo, as Lim is expecting her second child in a few weeks. — JOELLE DIDERICH Inside the Rick Owens flagship in Milan. DIFFERENT STROKES: The front row at the digitally etched with the music of the Givenchy men’s show in Paris on Friday finale to “Salome,” my favorite opera by made for an improbable meeting of Richard Strauss — a recurring motif in musical styles. everything I do,” said Owens. Killing time before the display, The boutique carries the women’s Primal Scream front man Bobby Gillespie and men’s main lines as well as made small talk with French classical BIG Drkshdw, the denim collection, and the pianists Katia and Marielle Labèque. Lilies line, a collection of draped jersey. “Do you write your own music?” he Pieces from Owens’ furniture collection enquired. Katia Labèque explained will rotate in the boutique. they play a classical repertoire that BUSINESS Vogensen Promoted at Chico’s FAS TODD VOGENSEN has been promoted egy and vice president of investor relations. WWD Marketplace is the premier destination to senior vice president and chief finan- Earlier in his career, Vogensen was cial officer of Chico’s FAS Inc. with Michaels Stores and, between 2003 for the industry’s classified and career listings. He succeeds Pamela Knous, who’d and 2005, was assistant corporate con- been executive vice president and cfo troller of Gap Inc. and has left the company. Vogensen re- “Todd’s contributions have been of sig- ports to Kent Kleeberger, executive vice nificant value to our success and growth president and chief operating officer, over the last five years,” commented David who served as cfo for over three years Dyer, president and chief executive officer. 800.423.3314 until Februrary 2011. Chico’s owns and operates 1,496 spe- Vogensen is a five-year veteran of Fort cialty stores and Web sites under the Myers, Fla.-based Chico’s who was most re- Chico’s, White House|Black Market, WWD.COM/MARKETPLACE cently senior vice president of finance and Soma and Boston Proper brands. earlier vice president of planning and strat- — ARNOLD J. KARR 12 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014 Met Exhibit Explores Mourning ture of memorializing and grieving. It’s By MARC KARIMZADEH the intersection of this really sobering and quite poignant narrative about deal- NEW YORK — This fall, the Costume ing with grief, and at the same time a re- Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of ally chic fashion story.” Art will explore a different kind of fash- Needless to say, it will feature mostly ion history with “Death Becomes Her: A black ensembles, as well as jewelry and Century of Mourning Attire.” accessories (“Veils,” Koda exclaimed). “Our selections are based on trying Van Cleef & Arpels’ to find expressions of each of the silhou- magical land to mark the A mourning ettes that existed these decades, and to launch of its Peau d’Âne ensemble, represent different stages of mourning jewelry collection. 1870-1872. and different textiles that were required according to the dictates of mourning et- iquette,” Regan noted. For example, this Magical Moments With Van Cleef includes a progression of fabrics from mourning crepe to corded silks, and ready been sold the previous evening, later, the introduction of subtle color via By ALEX WYNNE according to brand executives. shades of gray and mauve. The collection includes several “There is this overlay of fashion with CHAMBORD, France — Van Cleef & house references, like the Zip neck- this really ritualized aspect of mourn- Arpels created a magical kingdom in lace and fairy clip, the latter created in KARIN WILLIS ing,” Koda said, adding that there will which unicorns exist and elephants various manifestations inspired by the BY also be 19th-century photographs of roam at the Loire Valley’s Château ever-more-elaborate gowns sported by women in mourning. de Chambord to celebrate the launch the heroine of “Peau d’Âne.” He said the main takeaway is going of its latest high-jewelry collection, Everything is infused with the magi- to be how “even in a subject that is so Peau d’Âne (or “Donkey Skin”). It was cal world of the tale itself, from the fraught with emotion, clothing is a very inspired by the Charles Perrault fairy Château Enchanté clip centered with a active participant in addressing these tale of the same name. 39-carat oval-cut Brazilian emerald to more intangible issues. It becomes a The sumptuous event, for which the Gateau d’Amour ring made of white physical manifestation of grief and in a the château was privatized, was held and yellow gold set with gradated yel- way becomes something that is a mecha- Thursday and Friday — the first day ex- low to brown diamonds and centered

MUSEUM OF ART, THE METROPOLITAN nism for dealing with it.” clusively for customers, while the second with a 4.48-carat emerald that plays an This marks the Costume Institute’s was designed to give the international integral part in the original story. first fall exhibition in seven years. It will press a glimpse of a rarefied world. “High jewelry is the identity of the PHOTO © take place at the Anna Wintour Costume “We decided to create an event that is brand,” said Bos. “It’s not only image The exhibition will examine the im- Center, and will be open to the public really the same sort of experience that for us. This house was built on high jew- pact of high fashion on mourning between Oct. 21, 2014, through Feb. 1, 2015. we create for clients,” said Van Cleef & elry. For us it is a core activity. We have 1815 and 1915, with the 30 or so garments “The focus,” added Koda, “might seem Arpels president and chief executive of- a real group of high-jewelry clients and including gowns by Queen Victoria — ar- somber, and, of course, the content is ficer Nicolas Bos. “This type of event is collectors all over the world.” guably history’s longest grieving widow — necessarily serious, but I think people an experience that becomes an expres- Van Cleef & Arpels makes between and Queen Alexandra. will leave astonished by the range of how sion of the house that you never see.” 500 and 600 pieces of high jewelry in its The idea for it did not have its origins fashion insinuates itself into all of this.” Van Cleef normally shows its high-jew- dedicated workshops each year, he said. in death and subse- elry collections to journalists in presenta- Although Bos could not be drawn on quent grief. “For years, tion format during couture week, along- numbers, he maintained that the activ- I have wanted to do a side the other Place Vendôme houses. ity is a “quite significant” part of the silhouette show, some- “[Presentations are] a way to show on house’s business. thing that looks at the a very regular basis that there is creation The Peau d’Âne collection will most exaggerated ele- in jewelry, but when we do projects like be shown again at the Biennale des ments of the fashion- IMAGES this, we want…to show the collection in Antiquaires in Paris in September. able silhouette, which, conditions that we feel are appropriate The evening continued across the GETTY in the 19th century, and exceptional,” Bos explained. lawn from the château in an especially takes really extraordi- ART, Guests were welcomed into the 16th- erected oriental-style marquee past OF nary transformations,” century château, which was transformed which swept a parade featuring an said curator-in-charge for the occasion into a magical realm with Indian elephant and a unicorn, as well Harold Koda, who floral bowers and chambers peopled by as other mythical creatures and horses worked on the exhibi- masked dancers in medieval costume, and carriages out of which stepped mod- tion with assistant cu- men with deer’s heads and perform- els sporting the collection’s designs. rator Jessica Regan. ing owls. The edifice features Guests were then treated to a medi- MUSEUM METROPOLITAN “I was talking with FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE in Jacques Demy’s 1970 movie eval-style banquet concocted by three-star Jessica, and said, ‘Why THE “Peau d’Âne,” starring Catherine Michelin chef Marc Meneau. This was fol- don’t we do a show with OF WWD.com. Deneuve and Jean Marais. lowed by a performance of songs from all of our black dresses Thirty-six pieces from the “Peau d’Âne” by opera singers Natalie on the theme of mourn- high-jewelry collection, which Dessay and Laurent Naouri accompa- ing?’ It’s a sociohistori- COURTESY The “Black Ascot,” 1910. will total around 120 creations, nied by musician and composer Michel

cal survey of this cul- PHOTO were on display, and several had al- Legrand, who wrote its original score.

Agreement — Hapag-Lloyd, Zim Importers Rush Goods Ahead of Contract Deadline Integrated Shipping Services and United Arab Agencies — have {Continued from page one} period would cost the economy and Tacoma, Wash. These ports ILWU and the PMA have consid- said they will impose a surcharge anything intentionally or making $8.3 billion this year and an ad- handle 1 million tons of cargo ered a shorter duration for the in the event of “labor-related un- it slow,” Wong said. “Everybody is ditional $2 billion next year. daily. Los Angeles and Long new contract, lasting possibly rest” resulting in congestion at in a rush to get it out of the port. “For retailers and their custom- Beach combined handle $1 bil- three years instead of six. port terminals. Once it’s out of the port, they’re ers, a port closure would mean a lion worth of cargo each day. In order to avoid any potential The last time there was a done. It can sit for a week or two delay in back-to-school and holi- The current six-year collec- disruptions at the ports, import- major disruption at the ports was weeks. This is stuff they don’t day shipments that could signifi- tive bargaining agreement is ers have increased their ship- in 2002, when the PMA locked need to get into the stores until cantly drive up consumer prices,” set to expire at 8 p.m. Eastern ments ahead of the contract’s out workers and the White House August or September.” said Matthew Shay, president and Daylight Time today, contrary to deadline. The NRF and Hackett sought a federal court order to A strike, if one were to hap- chief executive officer of the NRF. previous reports stating that it Associates reported last month end the 10-day lockout. The OIA pen, would be a blow to the A protracted dispute at the was to end 20 hours earlier. The that import volume at major U.S. said the work slowdown and sub- recovering U.S. economy. ports also could pose another ob- ILWU represents dockworkers, container ports was expected to sequent lockout from 12 years According to a report issued stacle to the nation’s inconsistent while the PMA covers waterfront increase 7.5 percent in June. The ago resulted in nearly $1 billion Thursday by the National Retail economic recovery. Last week, employers. If recent contract Port of Los Angeles said import in losses a day. The ILWU said Federation and the National the U.S. Commerce Department negotiations are any indication, volume was up 8 percent in May the only time its members went Association of Manufacturers, a revised its estimates of first-quar- both parties won’t likely settle on from a year ago and estimated on strike over port contract nego- 20-day stoppage would reduce ter GDP, reporting that the econ- a new agreement before the ex- that June figures could show a tiations was in 1971. the gross domestic product by omy shrank at an annual rate of piration. But it appears the PMA similar increase. “Manufacturers depend on $2.5 billion a day, disrupt 405,000 2.9 percent, instead of 1 percent will keep the ports open and the Adding to the economic bur- the ability of West Coast ports to jobs and cost the average house- as announced in May. ILWU will keep its members den, carriers may charge port efficiently move cargo valued at hold $366 in purchasing power. The ILWU and the PMA have working under existing terms congestion surcharges. According 12.5 percent of U.S. GDP,” said A 20-day port shutdown scenario been engaged in negotiations until a new one is finalized. to the Outdoor Industry Jay Timmons, president and also would lead to a $6.9 billion since May 12 to hammer out a Among the issues the ILWU Association, a Boulder, Colo.- ceo of the National Association loss in exports this year, and its new contract covering 13,600 and the PMA are negotiating based trade group for manufac- of Manufacturers. “A shutdown effects would linger into next workers at 30 U.S. West Coast is the impact of the Affordable turers, retailers and other com- would erode that figure and in- year with a $1.7 billion loss in ports, including those in Los Care Act’s excise tax, which goes panies in the outdoor recreation flict long-term damage to our export activity. An import dis- Angeles; Long Beach; Oakland, into effect in 2018 and could industry, at least three members competitiveness as manufactur- ruption during this same 20-day Calif.; Portland, Ore.; Seattle, cost up to $150 million. Both the of the Transpacific Stabilization ers and as a nation.”